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www.SteeleConcept.

com Presents:

BEST WAY
TO BREW

ALL GRAIN BREWING SIMPLIFIED

CHAPTER 1

Welcome all to the guide on brewing all grain beer the easiest
way possible. Note that this method is extremely simple, but will
produce a quality all grain end product that can win awards.
Please relax, dont worry and have a homebrew as you join me in
exploring the beautiful simplicity of Best Way To Brew.

On the creation of this ebook

This book was created using a Mac, an iPhone and iBooks Author.
Google was utilized heavily for random bits of info as well as images,
such as the one above. This book is a free resource which may be
periodically updated, but is meant for free and wide distribution about
the interwebs, between friends, brewers, homebrew shops, etc.

No permission is needed to copy, distribute, or modify the content of


this site. Credit anddonations are greatly appreciated but not
required.

This blog and ebook is Uncopyrighted. Its author has released all
claims on copyright and has put all the content of this blog into the
public domain.

0. Do whatever the hell you like.

Terms and Conditions for Copying, Distribution and Modification

About me

Hi, my name is Steve Steele and I am a young

In my free time I enjoy brazilian jiu jitsu, kettlebells, running, the

entrepreneur with a graduate degree in Industrial

outdoors, reading, writing and electronics.

Organizational Psychology. I also have undergraduate


degrees in Psychology and Chemical dependency. Ive always

I felt that a free and simple instruction set needed to be

been interested in performance and efficiency in consumer

provided to the public to educate the masses. This is the

products, constantly thinking of product improvement and

simplest and most efficient way to homebrew an all grain beer

innovation.

in the 21st century. That being said I have a great deal of


student debt and if you wish to help me out, please support

I have home brewed for 5 years and have experience

my business on the following page...

working at a local microbrewery while I was going to school.

Credit

I would like to thank the following people and


forums prior to us beginning, as these sources
were the foundations for this ebook and without
them this would not be possible.

Brad Smith - Software developer for Beer Smith


and webmaster of www.beersmith.com - home
of some great blog articles, podcasts, software
etc.

John Palmer - Author of How to Brew and


owner of www.howtobrew.com

Jeff Omundson - Owner of www.bagbrewer.com and creator of the


finest brew bags

All local microbreweries, local homebrew shops and


online suppliers

Greg Stiffler - Owner of www.simplebiabcalculator.com

www.biabrewer.info - This site is all about bringing


brewing in a bag to the masses. A technique that

Leo Babautta - Owner of www.zenhabits.net

originated in Australia was brought to popular attention


though these forums. It is *THE* go to resource for all

www.homebrewtalk.com - Great general homebrewing forums and


fantastic recipe section

things brew in a bag aka BIAB.

www.homebrewchatter.com - O Flannagains site thats geared


toward the homebrewers with thick skin

Best way to
Brew
Advantages:

Brewing: Simplified

1. Utilization of BIAB
technique to bring
brew days to <3
hours!
2. Application of no
chill method to
eliminate expensive
and unnecessary
wort chillers
3. Employment of dry
yeast to do away
with expensive
liquid yeast and
starters
4. Single kettle and
single fermenter
with spigots fitted
for easy draining
with no siphoning
5. Bottom line is we
will be saving time,
money, water and
headache

As mentioned earlier I have been brewing for ~5


years now. Initially I sought out the cheapest
and most simplistic all grain brewing method so
that I could brew the best beer the easiest way
possible. Unfortunately this method known as
the batch sparging method led to brew days of ~7
hours with lots of stress, spills and problematic
equipment, water, temperature calculations etc..
While I worked at the brewery we had a visitor
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from California who mentioned brew in a bag. I


did some research and before I knew it I was
excited about homebrewing again. I was quickly
brewing up beers that were just as good if not
better than batch sparging and only took half the
time and effort. In short, brewing became fun
again. I soon rekindled this relaxing pastime with
renewed passion.

CHAPTER 2

DONT SWEAT THE TECHNIQUE

People often hear of all grain brewing and they


become intimidated like it is some big and
complicated ordeal. In fact it requires just one extra
step than brewing from extracts (premalted syrups).
That easy extra step is mashing and it consists of
holding the grain at a steady temperature to extract
the sugars, similar to brewing a cup of tea.

Instruction Set

The brew day in 10 easy steps


Id like to begin by outlining the steps one will go through on
brew day. By following a simple procedural step format we can
check off steps as we move along. Please note the materials and
step specifics will be discussed in detail in the pages to come.

That is all for brew day! There are 10 additional steps to do


after brew day to help get your beer from grain to glass but they are
much less time consuming and will only take around 1 hour total.
Brew day always takes the most time but by using minimal
materials and superior technique we will have little to clean up.
Cleaning and sanitation is traditionally a HUGE part of brewing
but with the BIAB and no chill methods we only have a few pieces
of equipment to wash.

1. Select and acquire recipe


2. Gather up materials
3. Calculate

What we have done on brew day is: Steeped the grain at a


certain temperature (mashing) so that simple sugars are available
for the yeast to eat up. We have bittered and flavored the wort
(what the beer is called before yeast is added) by adding hops.
Without hops beer is just alcoholic grain juice and tastes nasty. All
we do from here is pitch yeast (add yeast) to the beer and let it eat
its sugar and shit its magic, which is alcohol and co2 of course :)

4. Measure out water and heat it


5. Grind the grain
6. Once the water is heated, begin mash
7. After the mash begin the boil
8. Empty the brew bag and sanitize
9. Rack to cube
10. Let the cube cool overnight
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Instruction Set

After brew day


As mentioned earlier we will be adding dry yeast as it is
inexpensive, good quality and easier to use than liquid yeast.
Nottingham and Safale are the best dry yeasts.

10. Drink! Congrats you have gone from grain to glass in 21 days.

1. Boil 1 cup of water for 5 minutes and place in a bath of ice water.
Allow it to cool to ~100 degrees 95-105 degrees is fine
2. Rinse the fermenter
3. When your water is ~100 degrees pour in the yeast and stir it
around. Wait 20 minutes
4. Transfer wort from cube to fermentor, violently
5. Pitch the yeast
6. After a week put the fermentor in the kegerator
7. After a week rack the beer to the keg
8. Ensure the regulator is at 12 psi
9. Wait a week (the hard part)

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CHAPTER 3

MATERIALS REQUIRED
Homebrewing is similar to an education in that the initial investment is a bitch, but oftentimes its well worth it in
the end. This list may look intimidating but many items on this list are very inexpensive, others you can find on the
cheap and as with anything, seek and ye shalt find:
1. Brewing Vessel
2. BIAB Bag
3. Misc Brewing Accessories
4. 10 Gallon Fermenter
5. Stainless Steel Spoon
6. Barley Crusher
7. Propane Burner
8. Kegging Equipment
9. Kegerator
10. Recipe Ingredients

Total cost $0-$1000

Brew Pot Vs.


Keggle

Brewing Vessel

1. It really doesnt
matter what you
choose, you should
make your decision
based on what is
available and
cheapest for you

VS

2. For stress free


brewing please opt
for a 15 gallon pot
for 5 gallon batches
or a 25 gallon pot
for 10 gallon batches
3. A stainless steel
drain spigot,
thermometer and
false bottom or cake
rack to keep the bag
off the bottom are
recommended. The
sight glass is
optional and many
do without as they
can break if you are
rough.

A Keggle is a keg (15.5 gallon) converted into a brew


pot by cutting out the top, adding a false bottom,
spigot and thermometer. Optionally you can add a
sight gauge but they are unnecessary and can break.
It can brew all sorts of 5 gallon batches. It looks
badass and is tough as nails but it is heavy on labor
and often requires a welder. The hardest part of
keggle construction is finding a welder to do the
work whos not a raging alcoholic. Blichman are the

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best brew kettles money can buy. They are light,


sturdy and good to go. Unfortunately they cost a lot
of money. You can use a large stainless steel or
aluminum pot provided you are going to drill it to fit
a weldless thermometer and steel spigot. You can
buy any size brew kettle youd like. I have a keggle as
I got a decommissioned keg for free from the
brewery I worked at.

BIAB Bag

BIAB Bag
1. Make your own bag
or cruise on over to
www.bagbrewer.com
to purchase one.

Online popular opinion states that Swiss Voile is


the best materials for these BIAB bags. The
problem is one should reinforce the top and add
loops and such. If you dont know how to sew
this can be a major pain in the ass. Fortunately
there are people like Jeff at www.bagbrewer.com
who make high quality bags for the fair price of
$35. This is a particularly attractive option for
people who utilize keggles as Jeff tapers the
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bottom of the bags for keggles so they dont get


stuck as you lift them out of the pot. These bags
are very strong and are good for 5 or 10 gallon
batches as they are reinforced and have lifting
loops.
*TIP* You can secure the bag to the top of your
brew vessel quite easily with those metal chip
clips

Brewing
Accessories

Misc Brewing Accessories

1. Star San Sanitizer simply the best


homebrew sanitizer
and can last a month
if covered up!
2. Whirlfloc Tablets - add
15 minutes before end
of boil to coagulate
proteins and clear beer
3. Hop bag (Optional) grab a small bag for
clear beer
4. Hydrometer - crucial
for taking readings
5. Wood dowel - to
initially calibrate keg
volume
6. Aquatainer - for no
chill method
7. Spigot - siphoning
sucks!
8. Escali Scale - Cheap,
quality digital scale

The equipment is pictured in order as you would read. To


calibrate keg simply fill it gallon by gallon and mark on the dowel as
you go. Fill up to 10 gallons. This make things really simply on brew
day.
You can opt for no hop bag , a small bag, or a hop holder for
your kettle/keggle. I usually just use a small bag as Im not a huge
hop head.
Ive hosted a nice .PDF from Bay Area Mashers. To build a
simple hop holder for your kettle see:
http://bestwaytobrew.com/downloads/hopholder.pdf
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The Fermenter

12 Gallon Fermenter

1. A 12 gallon
fermenter is good for
5 or 10 gallon
batches
2. There is no lid for an
airlock as air can
escape from the lid
3. This guy is plastic
and easy to drill a
hole 2 from the
bottom for our spigot
4. Mark it up to 10
gallons in half
gallon increments
just like the keg.
Fortunately this
plastic is see through
so you can use a
sharpie on the
outside. Nice!

In my experience plastic buckets are vastly


superior to carboys as they are lighter, easily
marked, dont require airlocks, cant shatter and
most importantly you can fit them with a spigot.
Do yourself a favor and grab a big ass 12 gallon
fermenter

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The Brewin
Spoon

Stainless Steel Spoon

1. Every brewer needs a


large stick or metal
apparatus to stir the
brew
2. Stainless is strong ,
itll match your keg
and will not rust
3. You use this to stir
during the mash
and throughout the
boil.

SEXY
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Barley Crusher

Barley Crusher

1. This is the standard


mill that
homebrewers use
2. Opt for the 15 pound
capacity mill so you
can grind more
grain at once
3. Ensure to use a
cordless drill as its
faster than hand
cranking. By hand
takes forever while
the cordless will do
~6 lb of grain/
minute
4. For our brewing
purposes we leave it
on the default
setting at 12 o clock
and run the grain
through twice to
ensure the perfect
grind

The Barley Crusher is a wonderful way to grind


grain. Usually the local homebrew store can
grind grain for you, but for the freshest beer you
want to grind your grain right before you brew it.
Having one of these beasts on hand ensures that
you can have stored whole barley and brew
whenever you feel like. If you are looking to save
some money you can avoid purchasing one and
have your grain ground when you purchase it,
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however you will definitely want a grinder at


some point in time. Its just another element in
ensuring the freshest and tastiest possible brew.
Head on over to www.beersmith.com on the right
you will see Brewing Supplies. Make sure to grab
the 15 pounds capacity mill as wed like to grind
as much grain as we can per fill. It makes our
lives easier.

Burner

Propane Burner

1. Its sturdy
2. Its low to the ground
3. Its cheap
4. Good for 5 or 10
gallon batches

The Bayou Classic SQ14 is another standard in


homebrewing, just as the Barley Crusher is.
This inexpensive, low to the ground burner is
perfect for brewing 5 or 10 gallon batches and
will fit brew pots or keggles just fine.

*NOTE* Electric brewing is gaining a lot of ground and there are specific sections on Homebrewtalk and
Biabrewer dedicated to this practice. For additional info see: Beachbums primer at:
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=80
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Kegging

Kegging Equipment

1. Saves so much time


and headache
compared to bottling
2. You can force
carbonate the beer
with CO2 which
means simply
setting the regulator
to 12 PSI and
waiting a week for it
to carbonate
3. You also serve the
beer at 12 PSI, so we
can always keep the
regulator at 12 PSI.
Simple.
4. Having a kegging
setup is just plain
cool

I would say that kegs are an absolute necessity in


homebrewing. Manually washing 50-100 bottles
(depending on 5 or 10 gallon batch) is very
tedious and takes most of the fun out of brewing.
A single vessel like this takes about 5 minutes to
clean. Simply rinse, fill with water and shake,
dump, fill with starsan, shake, then run star san
through the lines and you are done. A 5 pound
CO2 tank will generally last for around a year
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before the tank needs to be refilled. The


complete setup will run you around $200 but
aside from your brew vessel its the most
important item in your arsenal. I just got two 5
pound tanks filled and they were ~$18 each prior
to tax from Airgas in Connecticut. That is pretty
reasonable. Getting gas is easy, you just bring
your empty tanks to the gas place and they will
exchange your empties for filled ones.

Kegerator

Kegerator
1. These are a
requirement but
they can get
expensive
2. Ask around to see if
people have them.
Check your local
newspaper, craigslist
etc. You will be
surprised how many
are out on the loose
that people let go for
cheap.
3. New ones are also
nice as they are
prettier and more
energy efficient.

Ahhh the infamous single faucet Kegerator, a


thing of beauty. These guys are a requirement to
keep beer cold. CO2 also goes into beer a lot
easier when it is cold. Cold beer is good.
Unfortunately a kegerator brand new can cost
north of $400. However, people are always
throwing away old refrigerators and freezers and
a lot of homebrewers snatch these up and get
creative. If you can grab a freezer you will need a
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temperature controller which will run you ~$50.


My recommendation for the kegerator is to ask
around to see if anyone has an old one they
would like to get rid of. Old kegerators, fridges
and freezers are VERY easy to find locally and
Im sure youll be surprised at how good of a deal
you can get. Im running a 20 year old kegerator
that an acquaintance gave to me for free. It does
its job.

Gather your
recipe
1. Simply pick a recipe
from the many
award winning ones
at homebrewtalk
2. Print out the list or
bookmark it on your
phone and bring it
to your LHBS
3. Id recommend O
Flannagain
Standard as a nice
and easy beginner
recipe as its hard to
mess up and has
just a single hop
addition at the
beginning

Recipe Ingredients
(Excerpt from www.homebrewchatter.com)
Flannagin Standard Stout
OG: 1.046
FG: 1.014
SRM: Black
IBU: 17.2
Fermentation Data: 10-14 days at 68F
Yeast: WLP004 Irish Ale (We use Nottingham yeast)
Base Malt: American Pale
6.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 64.86 %
1.00 lb Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 10.81 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 10.81 %
0.75 lb Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 8.11 %
0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 5.41 %
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 17.2 IBU
NOTES: Absolutely delcious. The new house stout around here. It is smooth, creamy, malty
and a nice hit of chocolate. The Roasted is barely noticable through the intense cream. The
aroma is powerful and malty. Perfect bitterness. This beer is great!

I believe in supporting your local home brew


shop (LHBS). This is where I get my ingredients
from. If you live far away from a LHBS than you
can order online. There are many recipes out
there but from my experience some of the best
come from www.homebrewtalk.com There can be
recipes posted with hundreds of pages of
feedback so generally you just sort by view or
reply count and see what is good for each
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category. My all time favorite recipe is called O


Flannagain Standard and it is an easy drinking
Irish Dry Stout that I often brew with
Nottingham dry yeast. Its fantastic and a great
recipe for beginners as stouts have rich flavor
and new brewer mistakes are easily hidden in the
dark and roasty deliciousness.
www.homebrewchatter.com has this recipe
under the stout section. It has a cult following :)

CHAPTER 4

BREW DAY

Grab yo paddle

1. Select and acquire recipe


I bookmarked the O Flannagain Standard recipe on my iPhone and brought it to my LHBS. It is
important to refrigerate yeast and hops once you get home. Also note that you do not need to grind flaked
grains, so well grind up everything but our flaked barley and then mix it all in the bag at mash time.

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2. Gather up materials
Gather the following: Barley Crusher, tubing, fermenter with lid, hop bag, sanitizer, marked wood dowel,
whirfloc, brew bag, brew vessel, false bottom, brew lid, spoon and your cube.

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3. Calculate
Gregs Simple BIAB Calculator is located at: www.simplebiabcalculator.com For example the O
Flannagain Standard recipe was entered below for a 5 gallon batch: As you can see well use 8.19 gallons
and mash when we have a steady 156.6 temp. Ignore the other values.
-Thanks Greg, this tool is awesome!

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4. Measure out water and heat it


Grab your keg and your measuring dowel and measure approximately 8.19 gallons of hot water into the keg.
Make sure to let the hot water run for a bit so we don't have to use as much propane to heat it. Put the lid
on the keg so it heats faster.

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5. Grind the Grain


Use a cordless drill to speed up the process. Stack the barley crusher on top of the empty fermenter and
grind the grain, then do it again. We do it twice in BIAB for maximum efficiency for extracting the sugar
from our grain. Sometimes on the second pass its hard for the rollers to catch the grain. Pour the grain
directly onto the rollers and shake. You may have to do this a couple times... Youll get it! Our Barley
crusher always stays at the 12 o clock default setting.

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6. Once the water is heated, begin mash


Place the brew bag in the kettle and then pour in all the grain at once. Please note that metal clips can help secure the bag. Give it a good
stir but don't splash. Now set a 60 minute timer, I use the built in timer on the iPhone. Stir every 15 minutes check to see if you need to heat
your keg up to mash temp. Dropping a couple degrees is fine and we don't bother heating, if you drop 3 or more, heat. After half an hour most of
the starch conversion is completed anyway.
If you do heat, make sure you lift the bag off the bottom when you heat with one hand and stir the water outside of the bag with the other
hand for even temperature distribution. I had to additionally heat twice as it was a chilly day. It took a minute or two each time, no big deal we
just get up to 152 again. Leave the lid on as much as possible so the heat stays in. Some people go crazy insulating their kettle to help maintain
mash temperatures, Ill wrap the keggle in some blankets or an old sleeping bag to help keep in the heat if its cold.

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7. After the mash, begin the boil


Pick up your brew bag and suspend it over the fermenter. Some people suggest squeezing the bag to extract additional
wort and increase efficiency, however, it is important to note that the BIAB calculator does not take into account squeezing, so
I dont do it. I used my old cooler mash tun (used for batch sparging) to boost up the fermenter. Now crank your heat up on
your brew vessel and get a good boil going. Always leave the lid off when boiling as bad flavors can accumulate if the lid is on.
Also take note that no mash out (raising of the temp and holding it) is necessary as we are heating a full boil to boil
temperature right after mashing, so the grain isn't sitting idly chilling.
Once the boil starts pour the bag dripped wort from the fermenter into the keggle. Add in your bittering hop bag and set
a 60 minute timer for the boil. With our recipe o Flannagain Standard, this will be the only hop addition, easy. NOTE: Once
you get a good boil going, dial down the heat so it is still bubbling a bit but not going crazy. Youll save propane and beer (from
boil overs). Still keep an eye on the boil as it has a mind of it's own and will boil over the second you turn away. Also at 15
minutes from the end of the boil, toss in a single Whirlfloc tablet, try not to forget and your beer will be clearer :)

*NOTE* A common myth is that squeezing the


bag will extract tannins which will affect your beer.
This myth has been debunked and there are no
worries about squeezing the bag :)
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Dont forget me!

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8. Empty the brew bag and sanitize


Empty the bag in the garden/compost and wash it out in the fermenter. Hang it to dry. Now sanitize the
cube, fermenter and tube
Mix up 1/4 oz of Star San to a gallon of water in the fermenter. Throw your tubing in. pour the sanitizer
into the cube and shake it good. Then pour the sanitizer back in the fermenter and throw the lid on. We'll
keep this stuff for later.

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9. Rack to cube
Rack all the beer into the cube. No whirl pooling or filtering should be necessary as we employed a brew
bag and a hop bag. There is no need to move the cube all around with the boiling liquid as we already
sanitized it with our patented Star San shake method ;) Just leave it and simply...

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10. Let the cube cool overnight :)

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CHAPTER 5

AFTER BREW DAY

We let the yeast do its magic

After Brew Day

Im going to skip steps 1-3 on rehydrating yeast as they are self explanatory and well documented
in Palmers How To Brew. Prior to step 4, well grab our hydrometer and get a reading. Place
the hydrometer case under the cube and pour it ~3/4 full. Get at eye level and read from the
bottom of the water, NOT where the water clings to the glass (meniscus). As you can see here we
got 1.046 Original Gravity. When we adjust for temperature it comes out to 1.047, Perfect!
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There are tons of brewing efficiency calculators online. I came across this one which I liked:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/ We just input our data and see how
we did... ~90% Wonderful :)

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4. Transfer wort from cube to fermentor, violently


The more foam the better! We want all the air in there we can get.

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4. Pitch the yeast


Just pour it in, put on the lid and put it in a dark place thats 60-70 degrees. Closets, basements and spare
rooms work well. Let the fermenter sit a week. After a week of sitting we put the fermenter in the kegerator
for another week, this is called cold crashing.

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After Brew Day: Kegging


Steps 7-10 take us from kegging to drinking our beautiful
beverage. Please note cold crashing is not required just like
Whirlfloc is not required. However both are the easiest ways to
clear your beer. That is why I recommend 1 week ferment, 1 week
cold crash, 1 week keg. Simple.

Rinse:

If you are in a rush you can always ferment for a week then
keg for a week, omitting the cold crash week. O Flannagain
Standard is perfect for this as its a dark yet light beer. That means
clarity doesnt really matter, and we can generally drink light beers
faster than their heavier counterparts. 14 days from grain to glass
is fine, although most note it gets better with age. A little more
time initially in the fermenter allows the yeast to clean it up so
flavors mellow.
Step 7 indicates its time to rack the beer from the fermenter
to the keg. This is the same process as when we racked the beer
after boiling to the cube. First lets clean our keg. Please note after
kegs are cleaned you can leave them with a little Star San in them
and they will stay clean indefinitely. Star San is an acid based
sanitizer and is fine on the stainless steel kegs we are using. The
cleaning process is easy as mentioned in our materials section.
Just make sure to use hot water as it cleans better.

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Shake:

Now with Star San:


Mix up 1/4 oz of Star San to gallon of water

Dump.

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Dump the solution in the keg, shake and just run the majority of the hot Star
San through the beer serving line. Grab some of that Star San foam and scrub
the tops of the posts when you are done. Now you can shake the Star San in
the keg and it will be a cleaned and sanitized keg when you need it. Save Star
San when you can! An open container of solution is good for a month or till it
turns cloudy.

Toss your keg lid, o-ring and piece of tubing in there

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Now just rack, leave your gas on at 12 PSI, wait and drink!

*NOTE* 12 PSI is good pressure for carbing and serving a lot of beers. However different beers have different carbonation levels
according to style guidelines. If you are looking to replicate a particular beer style, please seek out the specific style guidelines for
carbonation.
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Geology is the study of pressure and time. That's all it takes really, pressure, and time... -Red

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CHAPTER 6

TIPS

Follow these easy tips for the best brew possible

1. Get the best and freshest ingredients available


2. Use good water. If your water sucks, get some good stuff. Also, calibrate water volumes for your keg and fermenter by marking a
wood dowel for the keg and marking the outside of the fermenter with a sharpie
3. When brewing a new recipe, follow it to the T. You can experiment later
4. Use Gregs BIAB Calculator
5. Sanitize! Star San is the best homebrewing sanitizer available. If something touches the beer thats not getting boiled, toss it in the
Star San. Keep a tub of it or spray bottle for easy sanitizing when you are doing beer stuff
6. Rehydrate your yeast - every time
7. Do full boils with BIAB. Dont mess around with topping up with water
8. Mash and boil for the full 60 minutes
9. Fermentation in the first week is critical! This is
where the bad flavors can show up. Try and get the
temperature as close to 68 degrees as possible.
10. Use Whirlfloc with 15 minutes left in the boil, and
cold crash after fermentation for optimal clarity

MOST IMPORTANTLY:
Always RDWHAHB its just beer. Usually things
turn out just fine. You will brew good ones and bad ones.
The most important thing is that we are enjoying the
hobby and learning in the process. This is the easiest way
to do all grain so stop your researching and get to it!
I wrote this ebook to help make homebrewing fun
and easy... So take er easy dude.

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CHAPTER 7

A FINAL NOTE

I really appreciate you taking time to read this free ebook. If you liked it, please spread the word! If youre a LHBS feel free to let your customers
know about the book. Im open to suggestions, corrections etc. as this book is a work in progress. Cheers to your health, homebrew and happy
times :)
Tell your friends about the Worlds Sleekest Water Pipe over at www.SteeleConcept.com! Take er easy,
-Steve