T O G R E AT E R H E I G H T S

After waiting for a long time, our most awaited Thini, Mustang tour was decided to
be conducted on last day of last year for 4 days and 3 nights. We, B. Arch. 067
batch of ACME and two teachers, started off on a chilly morning heading our way
from our college at Sitapaila. Understanding that the excursion to Mustang is
adventure to a land very different from our own, we rolled to the earthen road
facing some hard experience but the charismatic environment that we got to view
when we reached Mustang, copes it all, as we know "the arrival matters not the
journey". The soaring cool wind, chilly weather, breeze, silent environment, huge
hills, surroundings of mountains with shiny glimpse of snow, feels like its heaven on
earth for people like us living in the capital city with more of dust and pollution.
The Kathmandu-Beni-Mustang travel sure was thrilling. Thrilling in a sense that we
had our bus brake fail in the highway but fortunately no one got hurt and riding in
the way to Mustang from Beni on the earthen and narrow road with falling edges
without retaining wall sure was adventurous but the sight of natural waterfall, eye
pleasing greenery and shining Annapurna range was beautiful which unfocused our
mind from the unsafe road we were travelling. But our guide for the tour, Ar.
Gyanendra Shakya, consoled us saying, "to have been riding this much facility of
road is because we are lucky. Before, there was no transportation facility. Going to
Mustang meant a week long walk from Beni. Even today, during rainy seasons,
roads and bridges get damaged at places and walking or horse riding would be the
only means of transportation."
On first morning of the year 2069 we stopped at Bhurung Tatopani for tea. For many
of us the breath taking view of Himalaya between the hills in the foreground and
river flowing along the road with enormous silky stones just made us forget that we
were hungry or bus will leave us. But expecting more of such sceneries, we rode
along further. Our hearts were overjoyed by continuously changing wonderful and
serene landscape as we glided along with the scenery and our body bumped over
the rocky road.
The next landmark to come was Ghasa from where the Thakali settlement started.
The settlement of Thakalis from Ghasa to Tukuche was called Thak-Sat-Say. The
climate was humid and hills were covered with oak, rhododendron, pine and birch
forests. The houses were made mainly out of stone. Here we stopped for a typical
delicious Thakali lunch. With altitude the price per plate also hiked from Rs. 120 at
Beni to Rs. 320 at Ghasa.
As architects, it was interesting to know that beyond Tukuche stone houses
gradually reduced in number and mud houses appeared. The climate also changed
gradually. We could feel continuous wind blowing from south which was also
reflected in the trees on the way that had branches only on the northern side. And
further towards north we could see steppes. Between Tukuche and Jomsom were 5

major Thakali villages collectively called Pachgaon- Marpha, Thini, Syang, Chimang,
Chairo. Marpha is the biggest among all. Jomsom, the headquarter was our
destination for the day.
After getting off the bus, we were greeted by the sound of mule bells and
intercepted by the cold air making us to have wind stopper jacket but still we were
overwhelmed by the breath taking views of snow capped hills and pleased by the
Himalayan Architecture. We could see many porters and trekkers passing by, some
were back from the trail and some were just approaching to the place. Then, we
were in to our hotel, leaving our backpack, discussed the plans for a day and left for
a short visit around the places of Jomsom. We were all busy taking snaps of the
blissful Jomsom and its besotted life and living; everyone posing maybe seeking for
their next facebook profile picture and bring about the nostalgic memories later.
We were staying at the hotel named, Hotel Mount Kailash which was like the best
hotel for us because of its provision of letting us view the glorious view of snow
capped Nilgiri Mountain from wide glass window. The hills below it contained forest
from where the local used to collect wood for all purposes. Among all, Bhojpatra
(Birch) was most interesting. The tree bark was in thin layers like paper which is still
used in Kathmandu during rituals for writing. This used to be the paper to write
during early days.
Tired and hungry, but still enthusiastic, we explored most of the parts of Jomsom
wetting ourselves in snow cold rain and wind. Most of the hotels were packed with
tourists. Food in Jomsom was very expensive, but lodging very cheap. Apple as
major product of the place is very delicious. Apple juices, dried apple, apple wine
were the major commercial products we could find in any local shops. There
amazingly, petrol was also sold in mineral water bottles! Wanted to explore more
but tomorrow was the day to be most memorable. So, we had to be prepared for it.
Second day at Jomsom was most exciting and adventurous for us, since, early in the
cold morning we hiked towards south-east to nearby hill of settlement of Thini for
our case study. It is approximately 2710m above from sea level. The settlement is in
sloppy landscape with planned access. The whole settlement is bounded between
two lanes. The two entries at lower level have maney while the settlement is
capped by a high up, massive, colorful and eye-catching Bon-Gompa reflecting the
dominance of Bon-Buddhism. It is easily accessible from any part of the village.
They have bhadau nach (yak nach), jogi khelni nach, tamasya nach, masked
dance, all happening on the open ground in front of the Gompa.
The vernacular architecture of Thini is magnificent. Simple yet successful to flash its
authenticity, Thini's courtyard architecture is every eye catching. The arrangement
of residence is compact lined along narrow alleys to prevent the windy climate. The
locally available mud and timber are used as primary building unit. Mud is rammed
between wooden formwork to make it into a robust rammed earthen wall. Timber is

used as posts, roof planks, joists and parapet wall. However, the final finish of roof is
layers of mud. It is renovated and plastered layer over layer every year by a special
kind of mud called Sakhar mato. It has a water resistant quality which prevents
water to seep through roof. They have provision of sky light which is covered during
snowfall and rainfall. Stone is generally used in foundation and pathways.
There is very infrequent use of modern building material like glass. Minimum timber
openings are provided in outer faces to reduce the cold, harsh and dusty wind
entering the houses. However, towards courtyard openings are frequent. The
interesting character of houses in Mustang is the stacks of timber kept on the roofs
which function as parapet. It is serves as wood storage for harsh climate and is also
the prestige of the house!
The main inhabitants of Thini is Thakali; Gurung, Bista, Kami being the minorities.
The inhabitants were friendly and we pictured them as really hardworking since
they all were engaged in more than two occupations. This multi-occupational
characteristic is also outcome of the harsh environment they live through. One of
the fascinating characters about interior decoration of houses of Thini is that the
household utensils are arranged in decorative manner.
After the glorious excursion at thini, we made our way through cliffs and pathway
singing jomsomey bazaar ma , bara baje hawa sarara , towards Dhumba lake
feeling the jomsom wind in reality with the road covered with sandstone. The view
of clear bluish green lake surrounded by big cliffs and the cool breeze blowing
which created a certain pattern of rhythm on the surface of water washed away our
tiredness that we got by walking more than 1 hr. Dhumba lake is one of the best
place to visit in Mustang.
The clean, less populated area provided certain relaxation to our ear. The fierce
wind passing by blowing away messing our hair was refreshing in spite of its frost
killing our skin. What could be more agitating than walking around the narrow lane
of Thini with that intoxicating beautiful environment around with overwhelming
sound of cool breeze and timely alarm of bells around mules neck.
In spite of the brake fail, the strange passengers, illness, speeding up down
Muktinath in scary road, strike, tight schedule, continuous walk and travel, even
some drop of tears, at last tour was amazing.
The settlement in Thini village exhibits a vernacular milieu, harmonized with its
local ecology makes it a complete utopia .The architecture, so humble, so earthly
and so true to its nature... seen in the world beyond our imagination... on top of the
world but still on earth and made of earth.