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Climb Date: July 17-18, 2010 Leader: John Petrie

Route: Sahale Glacier, via Sahale Arm Assistant(s): Gloria Petrie
Max. Elevation: 8,680’+
Elevation Gain: 5,080’
Round Trip Distance: 14 Miles Climb Updates/Info,
Incl. Team Roster:
Chemeketan Rating: M1* - First year climbers eligible
Technical Difficulty: Grade I Glacier, 4th - Low 5th Class Rock, Altitude

Driving Directions:

Take I-5 north 282 miles to the Cook Road/Sedro Woolley Exit 232 in Washington State. Head east 4.5 miles to
where the road meets State Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) and continue approx 40 miles to the Marblemount
Ranger Station, where we will register for the climb. Turn on Cascade River Road (Forest Road 15) and proceed 23
miles to the Cascade Pass parking area and trailhead.

For those meeting at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride, the address is: 1100 Airport Rd SE, Salem, Oregon 97301

Route Description:

The view from the Sahale Peak summit is arguably the best in the entire North Cascades. Centrally located, the
summit offers a full panorama of rugged peaks and massive glaciers. Our high camp is the highest designated site in
the state, and the route offers just enough technical climbing to keep even experience mountaineers poised and alert.

The route starts off on a consistent grade, gaining 1,800’ in 3.7 miles, to Cascade Pass (5,400’). Once we reach
Cascade Pass, we will continue north up Sahale Arm 1.9 miles to our high camp at the base of the Sahale Glacier.
The next morning we will rope up right out of camp and proceed up and across the Sahale Glacier to the base of the
summit pinnacle, where we will setup a fixed line leading to the summit. BRING A CAMERA. After a moderate rappel,
we will descend the climbing route. Note: This is a limited use area and requires special permits for overnight
camping. If we are unable to secure permits, our plan is to knock it out in a long day or approach from Boston Basin.


Date Time
Sat 7/17 4:00am Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride in Salem. We’ll stop at Subway on the way up
10:00 Marblemount Ranger Station, register, and pickup camping permits
11:00 Arrive at trailhead (3,600’) and start approach. NW Forest Pass required
5:00pm High camp (~7,600’)
Sun 7/18 7:00am Start climb
8:30 Base of summit pinnacle (~8,400’)
10:00 Arrive at summit (8,680’)
12:00pm Arrive back at camp, pack up, and head out
3:00 Arrive at trailhead, distribute summit certificates, stop for dinner the way home
9:30 State Motor Pool Park & Ride in Salem

Sahale Peak Prospectus 2010.doc - Page 1 of 2

Required Equipment Checklist:
Unless otherwise noted, the following equipment is required for participation on this climb. The checklist below lists
the minimum items you will need and should be used as a guide only. Each climber is responsible for their own gear.

Ten Essentials: Navigation - Map & Compass (bring GPS if available)

Sun Protection – Sunscreen, Lip Balm, and Sunglasses
Insulation - Extra Clothing
Illumination - Headlamp w/ Extra Batteries
First-Aid Supplies
Fire - Fire Starter/Waterproof Matches/Lighter
Repair Kit & Tools – incl. Knife, Whistle
Nutrition - Extra Food
Hydration – Extra Water
Emergency Shelter - Emergency Tarp/Space Blanket/Bivouac Gear
Additional Items: Wool Cap/Warm Hat
Sun Hat/Bandana/Buff
Layered Clothing – No Cotton
Gloves/Mittens + Extras
Waterproof Jacket/Pants
Light Mountaineering Boots – Leather or Synthetic + Gaiters. Rock shoes are not necessary
Crampons – Fit to Boots Prior to Climb
Ice Axe
Camping Gear – Tent, Stove (extra fuel), Water Filter, Sleeping Bag/Pad, etc
Climbing Harness w/ Prusiks (2-3), Carabiners (2 lockers + 2 extras), Personal Pro/Anchor
Belay/Rappel Device
2-3 Liters of Water
Trekking Poles (optional but recommended)
Radios (optional) – set to 10/5 or 11/6 (TBD)
Other Personal Items as Necessary

Team Gear: Leader to provide Rope(s), Pickets, Radios, Wands, Rock Pro – divided and carried by team

Smoot, Jeff, Climbing Washington’s Mountains, (The Globe Pequot Press, 2002), pp. 78-83
Nelson, Jim, & Potterfield, Peter, Selected Climbs in the Cascades, (The Mountaineers, 1993), pp. 136-139

MAP: USGS Cascade Pass; Green Trails No. 80 (Cascade Pass)

Emergency Contacts:
National Parks Ranger Station in Sedro Woolley, 360-856-5700; NPS Dispatcher, 360-873-4500 ext 37; 911
In town contact is Nancy Christensen 503-901-9834 (Gloria’s sister, Portland)


1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident
or illness.

2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.

3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately
prepared for the climb.

Additional Comments:
Please notify the leader if you are NOT meeting the group at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride. We will be leaving at
4:15am sharp.

In case of inclement weather, the final decision to cancel the climb will be made by Thursday evening, July 15, 2010,
before 5:00pm. Our backup climb date TBD. Contact leader for further information. John Petrie, 503-910-9041
Sahale Peak Prospectus 2010.doc - Page 2 of 2