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Overview: Half Dome is the signature landmark of Yosemite National Park. Average
people can accomplish the approximately 16-mile, 12-hour hike to the top of Yosemites
signature landmark if they have three things: Education, Preparation and Motivation. This
app will you with your education. I include advice on preparation but you need to be in
top condition to do this hike painlessly. You should be motivated to it for your own
reasons be it because its on your bucket list, to keep in shape or just because its there!
The keys to success are: 1. Begin early, 2. Wear good boots, 3. Drink plenty of water, 4.
Use hiking poles and 5. Use rubberized gloves for the cables.
Ive included a lot of narration, stories, personal and archival photos relating to this great
hike. Please refer to the app when you are resting or getting a drink. You do not need to
be connected to the internet or a cell network all the content is included in the
download. Battery life is key. You do not need your GPS function activated. If it is, it will
reduce your battery life. You may consider getting a supplemental power supply.
There are several very interesting videos in POI 19 for you to view at your leisure prior to
the hike (this will maximize battery life on the actual hike.
1. Preparation Water, Boots, Poles
2. Interview with Royal Robbins - first man up the face of Half Dome in 1957.
3. Inspirational messages by Half Dome veterans
4. Cable ascent - The full trip up using a head mounted camera.
5. Wedding Proposal on the top of Half Dome.
6. Interview with Ryan Ghelfi - Ran the Half Dome trail in 2 hours 30 minutes.
Finally, check back periodically for updates - Hit RELOAD. We will continue to improve
this guide. Feel free to visit my website at HikeHalfDome.com, my daily blog at
wordpress/mrhalfdome.com or facebook.com/mrhalfdome. Send me an email with any
questions to MrHalfDome@gmail.com
I've done this hike 30 times and written the only guide book on it: "One Best Hike:
Yosemites Half Dome," availble in the park, at REI and Amazon.com.
Carpe Diem! (Seize the day)
- Rick Deutsch, aka Mr Half Dome
(c) 2011 Carpe Diem Experience, LLC
Tips: RELOAD this app frequently (bottom of screen) for important news about
Yosemite and the Half Dome hike.
***** NEWS - July 20, 2011 - 50 permits will be put onto recreation.gov each day at 7
am PDT for use the following day. Log-on early to get up to 4 permits. They are NOT
transferable and the leader must show an ID to the Ranger at Sub Dome. If you cannot
print it out, copy down the permit number. On July 19, ten people climbed over the
railing at the top of Vernal Fall 3 were swept over by the swollen fast moving river.
*****
1. PERMITS
Permits are now required every day of the week for all visitors who want to hike to the
top of Yosemites Half Dome. It applies 24/7. Only 300 permits will be sold for day
hikers for each date. 50 more are added each day at 7 am. An additional 100 permits/day
are reserved for Wilderness permit holders who plan to hike on routes that include the
Half Dome cables, e.g. Little Yosemite Valley. The cables are usually up through
Columbus Day Monday in October.
To obtain a permit, visit www.recreation.gov or call 877-444-6777 (7 am to 7 pm,
Pacific). Permit purchase may NOT be made by mail or in-person.
The permit service fee is $1.50 (credit card only & nonrefundable) per permit. With each
call/internet request, up to a maximum of 4 permits may be purchased. You can then reenter the system and buy more. NO refunds will be given for any reason. The dated
permits are transferable. They may be given away; no resale/auctioning is allowed.
Scalpers willbe prosecuted.
Everyone must carry a permit to go beyond Sub Dome. This is the 400-foot granite hill,
just before the cables. Half Dome big-wall face climbers may come down the cables
without a permit. Rangers at Sub Dome will check permits and enforce the permit
requirement. Abuse may result in a possible misdemeanor with up to $5K fine and/or 6
months federal jail time.
Unlike in 2010, unused permits from other hikers will not be given out at Happy Isles or
Sub Dome. Cancelled permits will go directly back into the pool of available permits
online and can be reserved up to 11:59 pm the day before. If you make one of these last
minute reservations and are not able to print out a permit, NPS will accept the reservation
number and name of the purchaser as proof of having a permit when you arrive at Sub
Dome.
2. PREPARATION
To help you get ready for the hike, heres information to walk you through the essentials
of: water, boots, hiking poles, clothing, food, first aid, training and accommodations.
WATER The number one guidance for this hike is to drink enough water. Because of
two microscopic protozoa called Giardia and Cryptosporidium, you should not drink
untreated water in the park. These are intestinal parasites that will give you diarrhea in
about a week after leaving the park. E-Coli from feces of animals is the source. Bear,
deer, mountain lions, coyotes and human waste all work their way into the water. You can
become very ill and death can result if you drink untreated water. Be safe treat it. If you
carry your water, it will get hot from your body and the ambient air. You also may not
bring enough. How much is enough? Im 200 pounds and I drink 7 quarts all day. Women
drink less. Water weighs two pounds per quart and if you carry it, you may get back pain.
If you dont have enough you will begin sipping it to conserve it. Not a good idea. Water
is critical to preventing dehydration and heat stroke. Water is used to make energy at the
cellular level so drink before you are thirsty.
If you use chemical treatment, most iodine-type pills take 30-minutes to work. In
addition, iodine is not effective against Cryptosporidium. I suggest investing in a Water
Filter pump. These devices cost about $70 but will last for over 200 gallon of filtering. A
mechanical barrier keeps all but viruses out. Viruses are generally not a problem in the
Sierra. Filters are compact and fit easily into your pack. I do the hike using only a fanny
pack and fit everything I need into it. Many will use a backpack with a bladder inside for
their water. The largest of these holds only three quarts, so you will have to replenish it
on the trail. You should use stationary water this allows sediment to settle and not be
sucked into the filter. That will clog it and reduce the life of the mesh filter element.
Consult the instruction book provided. At the end of your hike, fill a plastic gallon milk
jug with water and a capful of bleach. Cut a three inch diameter hole in the top and place
your filter inlet and outlet inside. Pump it for about five minutes. This recirculating
chlorine will kill any hitchhiking critters. Open it up and air it out for a day. When you
treat your water, you should add some powdered electrolytes. Those are the trace
minerals that our body uses for energy production. Sodium, potassium and magnesium
are all needed since your body will be depleted after a few hours. Drink before you are
thirsty. You will know you are doing okay if your urine is clear. (Use the outhouses or go
100 feet from any trail or water.)
BOOTS - This is a big hike and you should have good hiking boots not tennis shoes. I
suggest ankle high to avoid sprains on the uneven trail. The shank should be firm and you
should not be able to bend the toe back to the laces. It is critical that you have enough
room in the toe box. Half of this hike is downhill and if your feet are banging the ends of
the boots, your toenails may turn black and could even fall off. Cover any hot spots with
a blister pad or moleskin before it turns into a blister. I use a skin lubricant and put on a
thin liner sock followed by a mid-weight hiking sock.
HIKING POLES Seven miles of downhill hiking take its toll on your knees. Most of
the stopping force when descending goes right to them. Trekking (or hiking) poles
provide a proven solution. With the poles extended and in front of you, your upper body
will absorb much of the energy when descending. When ascending, keep the poles behind
you and push into the ground when they are at your side.
CLOTHING - Wear no cotton. It absorbs your sweat and takes a long time to dry out.
This could lead to wind chill if a breeze comes up later in the day. Synthetic fabrics are
recommended. Lightweight shorts or pants with zip-off legs are best. If chafing is a
problem, you may want to consider using a lubricating gel on your inner thighs. A longsleeved polypropylene shirt will give you warmth in the morning and dries fast. You can
keep the sleeves down in the early morning and fold them up as the day goes on or keep
them down for sun protection. A collar will protect your neck from the intense sun later in
the day. A front-button shirt can be opened for quick cooling. What you wear depends a
lot on when you go. May and October trips can be very cold at 5:30 am. The problem is
that you must carry everything with you. T-shirts are tempting, but they provide no
warmth in the early morning and will be soaked with sweat within a few hours. The longsleeved shirt also provides a pocket or two to hold your energy bar or small camera.
Many days it is windy and brisk on Half Dome, so a long sleeve shirt is very handy for
cutting the chill. A lightweight jacket stuffed into your pack is a good idea.
FOOD I do the entire hike with seven energy bars, a baggie of trail mix, a baggie of
beef jerky and a roll of hard candy. Your training hikes should help you decide how much
you eat. A hearty breakfast of muffins, bananas. raisins, fruit, granola, and energy drink
should suffice. There are no trash cans on the trail so bring a baggie and dont toss fruit
skins. They may be bio-degradable but it takes a long time. We practice Leave No Trace
hiking at Yosemite.
Heres a quick checklist of some of the major items to bring on the hike:
blister pack / moleskin
cell phone
flashlight
camera
first-aid kit
hand sanitizer
hat
rain gear/gaiters
small knife
sunglasses
sunscreen
toilet paper
whistle
FIRST AID Be sure to bring a basic first aid kit. Most issues are cuts and abrasions.
Neosporin, some bandaids and gauze will be the minimum. Your cell phone is a good
safety device. 9-1-1 works. Carry a whistle; in case of a fall you can still get help.
TRAINING - This is an extremely strenuous hike. Preparation should include extensive
steep hill climbing and descending. Upper body strength will be needed to pull yourself
up the cables. You will be traversing the length of 2 football fields as you head up the
cables at a 45-degree angle. We should all be exercising five days a week already. Are
you? Get a physical if its been a while. You can do the hike if you have asthma or other
concerns. Just get clearance from your doctor. Make sure your routine include aerobics,
resistance and stretching.
ACCOMMODATIONS - Once you get your permit for your hike day, your next
challenge will be to get a place to sleep. If you are a planner, you can book a hard-sided
place in the park one year in advance. Camping sites can be reserved six months ahead. I
book several dates well in advance and the park lets you cancel with seven days notice. I
prefer the Curry Village tent cabins or wooden cabins. They are the closest
accommodations to the Happy Isles trailhead. Once called Camp Curry, it has been
around over 110 years as a gathering place of fun lovers of the park. Curry Village has
plenty of stores and eateries to satisfy hikers and shoppers alike. There is a nice
amphitheater that hosts evening programs during the summer. In 2008, an early morning
rockfall off of the Glacier Point area severely damaged over 200 tent and wooden cabins.
No one was killed but the area is closed and is off limits near the cliff. Hint: Request a
site in the 600 or 700 series to be far from the loud crowd and closer to the trailhead.
The various Pines campgrounds and Housekeeping are other alternatives close to
Happy Isles. If you are staying at a park lodge or off-site, you will need to drive in and
park either at Curry Village or further down the road at the Backpacker Lot. Gateway
towns offer motels but they book up fast Yosemite is that popular. The closest
alternatives are in El Portal at the Yosemite View or Cedar Lodge. They are about 45
minutes from the trailhead. Mariposa is the county seat and has many tourist motels.
Groveland has a smaller number of fine hotels. Hotel Charlotte is fun and is highly
recommended. Another choice is in Midpines at the Yosemite Bug a hostel and cabin
oriented place that caters to many foreign visitors and young folk. Tent sites are also
offered outside the park. A KOA campground is in Midpines. Spend some solid internet
time and line up your accommodations early.
Yosemite Search and Rescue responds to approximately 250 incidents in the park each
year; nearly one-third of those incidents happen on trails leading to Half Dome. The
PSAR Group (Preventive SAR) has a display at the trailhead to help hikers avoid issues.
Here is some advice they offer for your Half Dome hike.
* Know your fitness level. The hike from the trailhead at Happy Isles to the summit of
Half Dome gains 4,800 feet in elevation and is 15 to 18 miles, roundtrip, depending on
which route you choose (the Mist Trail is 1 mile shorter, but much steeper, than the John
Muir Trail). It takes an average of 10 to 12 hours to hike to the summit and back.
Honestly assess the fitness level of each member of your group. High altitude and hot
summer temperatures may exacerbate pre-existing medical conditions; be well-rested,
well-hydrated, and eat plenty the day before the hike.
* Plan to start your hike before sunrise and have a non-negotiable turnaround time. For
instance, if you havent reached the top of Half Dome by 3:00 pm, you will turn around.
Check for sunrise and sunset times before you hike. Each person should carry a flashlight
or headlamp with fresh batteries.
* Be prepared for cool temperatures and rain showers. The summit is typically 15F to
20F (8C-11C) cooler than Yosemite Valley and windy conditions are common.
Do not continue up Subdome or Half Dome if storm clouds are overhead, if you hear
thunder, if it is precipitating, or if the ground is wet. If you are on the summit with a
storm moving in, leave the area immediately (while still using caution when descending
the cables and steps).
* Drink plenty of water. Suggested minimum amount is 1 gallon (4 liters) per person. The
only treated water on the trail is available at a drinking fountain at the Vernal Fall
Footbridge (less than a mile from the trailhead). Merced River water is available up to
Little Yosemite Valley; we recommend you treat any water collected from a natural
source before drinking it. Choose slow-flowing, non-slippery access sites when collecting
water from the river; a good spot to get water from the river is just before reaching Little
Yosemite Valley, where the trail closely parallels a relatively calm section of the river.
* Eat snacks regularly. Salty foods help replace the salt lost through sweat. Make sure
everyone in your group has food and water with them in case you get separated.
Pay attention to how youre feeling. If youre huffing and puffing, you are working
harder than you should. Take water and snack breaks in the shade.
* Designate meeting areas for your group. Identifying meeting areas can help reunite the
group if members become separated while hiking.
* Stay on the trail. Do not take shortcuts off the trail or across switchbacks. Besides
causing trail erosion and being illegal, cutting switchbacks is a major safety hazard. Bring
a good topographic map and compass and know how to use them.
Most accidents and injuries happen to hikers on their way back to the trailhead. Pace
yourself and continue to take breaks. Pay attention to the trail; hikers only lose the trail
on their way back down, hardly ever on their way up.
TIPS FOR USING THE CABLES:
* Wear sturdy footwear with good traction. The granite on the cable route has been worn
down to a smooth, polished surface. Shoes with sticky rubber soles are recommended for
the climb up the cables.
Some hikers prefer to use gloves. Nitrile coated (rubberized) gloves grip the best. The
steel cables can be cold and difficult to grip; if you use gloves, carry them back out with
you.
* Stay inside the cables. If someone needs to pass you, make room for them without
going to the outside of the cables. Use only one cable instead of both as you ascend and
descend. Although it may be tempting to grip both cables, one in each hand, using both
cables makes it difficult for hikers coming from the other direction to get by.
Additionally, gripping both cables can sap your energy more quickly than using both
hands on one cable.
OTHER TIPS
* Pack it in, pack it out. Please keep the trail litter free! There are no trash receptacles
anywhere along the trail.
* Restroom locations. Because the trails leading to Half Dome are so popular, several
composting toilets (aka outhouses) were built. They are at the top of Vernal Fall, at the
junction of the Upper Mist and John Muir Trails and in Little Yosemite Valley near the
backbpacker camp. They are well stocked with toilet paper. Don't toss trash in. Be sure to
use hand sanitizer.
(c) 2011 Carpe Diem Experience, LLC
Points of Interest
map
Happy Isles
Regardless of where you are staying, you will need to get to the Happy Isles trailhead of
the John Muir Trail to begin your Half Dome hike. It's just east of Curry Village. Bus stop
#16 is close to the trailhead, but buses do not operate until 7 am way too late for a
successful hike (a 5:30 am start is highly recommended). Near the bus stop is a nice
restroom facility and is also a safe place to fill your water bottles. Continue down the bus
road until you cross the Merced, then turn right and follow the signs (and the crowd)
along the southern bank. In about 200 yards, you will see a US Geologic Survey river
flow gage station. Measurements are taken here and telemetered via satellite to USGS
offices in Virginia. The roots of this station go back to 1915. In 1925, a continuous
recorder was installed. Upgrades over the years have brought it to its current functionality
and provide park officials with discreet as well as continuous water quality data. The
1997 flood destroyed a bridge at this point; you can see remnants of the foundation.
Audio
1 Happy Isles
map
Audio
2 MIleage sign
map
waterfalls from a single vantage point: Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, Yosemite Falls, and
Illilouette Fall. (Note the use of singular and plural. If a waterfall drops unimpeded it is a
FALL. If it cascades, it is FALLS.) Grizzly Peak lies just above you and to the left. You
can easily see and hear the roaring Merced River to your right. As you continue, the view
to the right will open up and you may catch a glimpse of Illilouette Fall streaming down
in the distance. All the falls at Yosemite are fed by snow melt and they are virtually gone
by late August, depending on the previous years snowpack.
In well under an hour you will arrive at the Vernal Fall Footbridge. Cross the wooden
bridge midway and you see the 317-foot high Vernal Fall to your left. A water fountain
and restroom are located here, just beyond the bridge. This will be your last source of
safe water and it will also be your last flushing toilet opportunity. (3 outhouses are further
along the JMT). Please avoid climbing on the rocks near the river. Moss covered stones
and wet boulders create slippery and dangerous conditions. Almost every year, Yosemite
Search and Rescue (YOSAR) performs body recoveries from the Merced. It runs at about
43 degrees F. In May and June, flows approach class V rapids under the bridge. Stay safe
and keep out of the Merced. If you see someone in need of assistance you can dial 9-1-1
to reach emergency support. YOSAR is the group that performs most of the rescues of
visitors who run into problems. Most calls are for problems that arise from dehydration,
sprains and broken bones but other times they are a matter of life and death. YOSAR
performs about 250 rescues a year, sometimes using helicopters.
Elevation: 4464 ft
Elapsed Time: 30 mins
Odometer: 1.0 mile
Audio
3 Vernal Bridge
map
Register Rock
As you leave the bridge and head up the JMT, after just a few minutes you will be faced
with a decision. To continue straight and get wet from the mist off of Vernal Fall or stay
dry and take the longer but dry JMT. The JMT turns right about 150 degrees and
continues up to Clark Point and Nevada Fall. If you go straight and through a control gate
you will head up the Mist Trail. The control gate is closed during the winter because
water off of Vernal Fall freezes on the upper steps creating a dangerous condition. The
trail from Happy Isles to the base of Vernal Fall was constructed by George Anderson on
contract to the new state of California in the late 1800's. Anderson was a Scottish sailor
who worked in the park as a blacksmith, trail builder and jack-of-all trades. Remember
his name. Later we will talk about his singular accomplishment that allows us to get to
the top of Half Dome. For now, marvel at the Mist Trail he constructed up to the cliff.
Trail crews, the California Conservation Corps and volunteers continually maintain and
upgrade the park's trails.
I suggest you take the Mist Trail up during your morning hike. It will converge with the
JMT at the Nevada Fall area. You will get wet from the spray in May and June but it will
be shorter than taking the JMT. The Mist Trail route to Nevada Fall is 2.6 miles vs 3.7
miles via the JMT. If you want to stay dry, then the JMT is the way to go; but you will
miss seeing some interesting sights. Later in the day we will return to Happy Isles on the
longer JMT to save our knees from the downhill pounding.
A couple hundred yards up the Mist Trail you will arrive at a control gate. It is closed
during the winter when the steps ahead might be covered in ice. A junction is here
allowing you to continue on the Mist Trail or go right onto the John Muir Trail.
Regardless of which way you proceed at the control gate, look to your hard right and just
a few yards up the JMT you will see a large granite rock to the left of the John Muir Trail.
It is called Register Rock. In the early day before the Government organized things,
people built tails in the rough terrain and charged tolls to use them. At Register Rock
people would write their name on the wall and continue on their hike. In the James
Hutchings book In the Heart of the Sierras, he wrote that he saw this writing on
Register Rock: Camped here August 21, 1863, A. Bierstadt. Bierstadt was an early
artist who captured scenic images. If you look closely, you can visualize the many now
faded entries on the sloping side of the rock. One 30 feet up appears to read:
GERTRUDE SMITH 1881 F.K.C. The accompanying photo shows you what the area
looked like in the late 1800s.
The lower Mist Trail was carved out by Scottish immigrant George Anderson. Prior to his
efforts, hikers had to go the longer trail later called the John Muir Trail. He constructed
that route on contract to the State. Anderson was a Scottish sailor and blacksmith who
imagined visitors wanting to get up close to the many vistas around Vernal Fall. Modern
hikers owe a debt of gratitude to George Anderson as one of the pioneers who helped
shape Yosemite. As you head up the nearly 700 steps, pay homage to Anderson who
constructed this difficult trail up to the cliff. Stephen Cunningham later built ladders up
the Vernal Fall cliff allowing access above the fall. If you think todays steps cut into the
side of top of the wall are scary, imagine going up a ladder system. Those ladders were
then updated to a wooden staircase which, in turn, was replaced by the granite steps and
railing you see today. In early season months, the spray off of the fall covers the trail and
you will be soaked for about 20 minutes. It is suggested to use a cheap poncho to protect
you from the spray. You may even see a circular rainbow in the spray on a sunny day.
Near the top you will be out of the spray and can continue up the remaining steps. Off to
your right you will see the Fern Grotto. This overhang is a quiet place to relax if you can
negotiate the short climb up and have plenty of time. It is not natural. The use of
dynamite carved out the huge gap.
Audio
4 Register Rock
map
junction that can be confusing. There are two metal signs that both say Nevada Fall. Go
left; in fact, on the hike to Half Dome, when you arrive at a fork always go left. Here, if
you go to the right, you will get to Nevada Fall, but via Clark Point and the longer John
Muir Trail. After passing the Emerald Pool, very shortly you will cross the wooden Silver
Apron Bridge.
Elevation: 5062 ft
Elapsed Time: 1 hour
Odometer: 1.6 miles
Audio
5 Top of Vernal
map
Audio
6 Silver apron Bridge
map
Audio
7 Mist and JMT junction
map
Spaced about eight miles apart, they are a rewarding day hike and welcome you with tent
cabins and hearty meals. You will soon depart LYV and head up the forested switchbacks
towards Half Dome.
Elevation: 6,100 feet
Elapsed Time: 2 hours
Odometer: 4.2 miles
Coordinates N 37.43.58 W119.31.13
Audio
8 LYV
map
triangular head and are colored cream to black with splotches. Bites are also very rare. If
you hear the rattle move!
Elevation: 7,000 feet
Elapsed Time: 2 hour 50 minutes
Odometer: 5.1 miles
Audio
9 JMT HD junction
map
snowmelt, it can be counted on to be running. You need to be alert and locate the Little
Spring on your left. After you make a hard left switchback turn, watch for a downed tree
that lies with its roots facing the trail. Ive walked by it when talking or daydreaming.
Study the photos of this area. This is the last water between here and the top and back!
See Pg 86 of "one Best Hike, Yosemite's Half Dome."
Usually spring water that runs through soil and sand can be safe to drink, we still
recommend you use a water purification system before drinking from this spring.
Remember the deer mentioned earlier? Giardia and cryptosporidium are linked to e-coli
in feces. These are two protozoa that will give you diarrhea in about a week. These
intestinal parasites must be treated or you will get very sick and could even die. The
spring is very shallow so do not stir up sediment. Hold the filter inlet just below the
surface to avoid getting sediment into your filter and clogging it. Filling up here should
allow you to get to the top of Half Dome and back to this spring before you need to refill.
Hydrate here and add electrolytes dont underestimate the difficulty that lies ahead. I've
listed the GPS coordinates in case you can't see the spring.
Elevation: 7,227 feet
Elapsed Time: 3 hour 10 minutes
Odometer: 5.9 miles
Coordinates N37-44.883 W119-30.879
Audio
10 LIttle spring
map
descend. The steps die out about of the way up and you have to watch for people
descending to ensure you dont lose your way. A slow and steady pace is best. Pause
often to enjoy the view.
Elevation: 7,900 feet
Elapsed Time: 3 hours 45 minutes
Odometer: 6.9 miles
Audio
11base of Subdome
map
and a sailor's knot a foot apart. This was a convenient space for him to grasp as he made
the ascent. He then affixed the rope to the eyelets on the way down. At 3 pm on October
12, 1875 he stood on top! The way to the summit was now in place.
In the days following, he escorted several English tourists up. Sally Dutcher was the first
women on top and John Muir is believed to have been the 9th person on Half Dome. The
Anderson rope didnt last long in the harsh winters and was unusable in a few years. He
died of pneumonia in 1883 and is buried under a granite rock in the park cemetery. Two
adventuresome men, A. Phimeas Procter and Alden Sampson, took it upon themselves to
replace the rope by dangerously lassoing the few remaining spikes.
Other replacements were successful to varying degrees due to the winter snows until Hall
McAllister, a San Franciscan and a member of the Sierra Club, offered to pay for the
erection of the cable system to the summit of Half Dome. It was completed in 1919 and
given to the park. It was suggested that it be called McAllister's Cable Route, but that
didnt catch on.
In honor of the accomplishment, a small wooden arch was erected at the bottom of Sub
Dome. You can still see the stone block remnants of the base of the arch. It is right where
the rangers check for permits. Being made of wood, the arch didnt last long in the rough
winters of the Sierra. To remember Anderson, the work crew erected the following plaque
at the arch. Its also gone.
ERECTED 1919 UNDER THE AUSPICES
OF THE SIERRA CLUB
TO REMEMBER
CAPTAIN GEORGE ANDERSON
WHO FIRST ASCENDED THIS DOME IN 1875
Don't leave your pack here; marmots and squirrels will gnaw their way in and ruin your
pack.
Elevation: 8,402 feet
Elapsed Time: 4 hour 30 minutes
Odometer: 7.1 miles
Audio
12 Base of Cables
map
Audio
13 Climbing the cables
map
make out the haze of the great San Joaquin Valley, breadbasket to much of the world. The
first whites tried to keep many of the Indian names for the majestic sights but they were
just too hard for the Anglos to master, so the names we have today stuck. The rock you
are standing on now was called "Tissiack" by the Indians. Legend tells us that an Indian
woman named Tissiack was walking in the valley near Mirror Lake when she and her
husband began fighting. The spirits were displeased and turned him into North Dome and
her into Half Dome. You can see a cameo of a woman on the face of the rock. The name
Yosemite comes from what the whites thought was the name of Indians who lived in
the valley. A loose interpretation was killers of grizzlies and the Mariposa Battalion
used that name.
2. El Capitan It is fittingly named to represent the power of the rock itself. Known to
the Indians as "To-tock-ah-noo-lah," their legend has it that one day two bear cubs were
playing in the area and a huge rock began to rise up to the sky. Soon the bears were alone
at the top of the 3,500 foot wall. The other animals could not get up to them until an inch
worm slowly made its way to the top. He was too late and the bears starved but he
brought back a rib bone to prove he made it. Today El Capitan is a mecca for big wall
climbers who scale the face taking several days. In 1958 it was first scaled by Warren
Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days. On November 6, 2010, Dean
Potter and Sean Leary set the current record at 2 hours, 36 minutes and 45 seconds. On
June 24, 2010, Alex Honnold climbed Half Dome - then El Cap in 8 hours!
3. Glacier Point Rising 3,000 feet above the valley, Glacier Point is accessible on foot
via the Four-mile trail, the Panorama trail or by car or bus off of Hwy 41. It has the best
all-encompassing views of Yosemite Valley, Tenaya Canyon, Half Dome, Vernal and
Nevada Falls. It was the site of the famous "Firefall," a spectacle that was held from 1872
to 1968. Burning embers were pushed over the edge to the cheers of visitors during the
season at 9 pm. The only exception was when John Kennedy was staying at the
Ahwahnee and was not ready then. In January 1968, George Hertzog, Director of the
National Park Service, ordered that the Firefall be discontinued. The Firefall was a manmade event, which detracted from National Park Service policy of encouraging
appreciation of natural wonders. He said that if people wanted to see something like that,
they could go to Disneyland. Also, auto traffic increased each night as a stream of cars
crowded the campgrounds and meadow areas where people jockeyed to get the best
views. Crime soared when empty tents were raided. The Glacier Point Hotel and
McCauleys Mountain House both provided spectacular views from the top until they
burned in 1969.
4. The Ahwahnee The Ahwahnee Hotel is at the east end of the valley and is a 5-star
lodge. It was named in honor of the true name of the Indians that the Mariposa Battalion
first met. They were the Awhaneechee. It loosely means those who lived in the place of
the gaping mouth (the Valley). The hotel was the brainchild of the first NPS Director,
Steven Mather. He knew that for the park to succeed financially it would need a luxury
hotel in keeping with the grandeur of Yosemite. The hotel was opened to the public in
1927 at a cost of $1.5M.
5. Curry Village - In 1899, David Curry opened a tented camp at the east end of the
valley so that visitors could enjoy the beauty of Yosemite for a modest price. David was
an outspoken man who greeted guests as they arrived and wished them a bellowing
Farewell as they left. Camp Curry offered "a good bed and clean napkin with every
meal" for just $2 a day. He orchestrated a ritual at the Firefall as he yelled: Let the Fire
Fall!
6. Tenaya Canyon At your feet is the rugged Tenaya Canyon. Running to the northeast,
it is a hazardous place with smooth granite walls carved by glacial action. Hiking it is
dangerous and not advised. Far to the north is Tenaya Lake, named in honor of the old
chief of the Ahwaneechee.
7. Clouds Rest The sharp peak to the right of Tenaya Canyon is Cloud's Rest. The hike
to the top takes about seven hours round trip if you start at the Tenaya Lake trailhead.
There are plenty of water sources enroute. The hike up the spine is harrowing since it is
only several feet wide. Upon arriving at the top of the nearly 10,000 foot peak, one can
gaze down at the cable route of Half Dome.
8. Mt Dana Far out to the horizon lies Mt Dana, the second highest peak in Yosemite at
over 13,000 feet. (Mt Lyell is higher.) Mt. Dana is named after James Dana, a 19th
century geologist who made important contributions to the geologic understanding of the
Sierra Nevada. It is also known for having a small receding glacier at its summit as does
Mt Lyell.
9. Merced Canyon Looking back towards the cables you can see the vast Merced
Canyon. The Merced River is fed from rain and melting snows in the higher elevations
the flow to Merced Lake and feeder streams to the south. A High Sierra Camp is located
next to the lake.
10. Other interesting information about Half Dome:
* Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas were the first to climb the nose of
Half Dome in 1957. Robbin's wife, Liz, was the first woman in 1967. View a video
interview with Royal in POI 19. His autobiography is coming out in 6 volumes and can
be found at www.royalrobbinsthebook.com/
*Alex Honnold free soloed Half Dome in 2008 - in uner 3 hours.
* Ryan Ghelfi and Ricky Gates have run the entire Half Dome hike, each in 2 1/2 hours.
View an interview with Ryan in POI 19.
* Close to 50,000 people a year hike to the summit. Hundreds more come up the face.
* Since 1919 only 2 hikers have fallen to their death when the cables are in their summer
season position. One was weather related and in the other fatigue and dehydration played
a roll. 2 women died when rapelling the cables during the off season when the rock was
wet.
* In 1877 Selah Walker took the first known photograph on the top of Half Dome. It was
a fuzzy shot of George Anderson.
* In 1915, Albert C. Pillsbury led a group of 17 Stanford students up the backside of Half
Dome. He took photos and motion pictures. The students also carried wood up and at
midnight lit a huge bonfire and shoved embers over the face, resembling the then-famous
Glacier-Camp Curry firefall.
11. Descending the Cables: After about 45 minutes you will be ready to hike back.
Stretch and pack up. Many people face downhill. I do not recommend this as you will
have to look at the scary rock below you and your bodys center-of-gravity will be
rocking you forward. Also, all your body weight will be on your wrists. A good way to go
down the cables is to face slightly uphill and go down in a repelling fashion; just as you
went up. The people coming up will gladly lean over so you can get by. They are pretty
tired. Let the cable slide on your gloves. If you have to descend on your butt, do it! Next
comes the Sub Dome. Be careful of your footing and use your hiking poles and descend
like a mountain goat. 4 points of contact. Dont be tempted to run or cross-cut trails. The
gravel surface of the trail can cause you to slip if you arent careful.
From here the hike is as you saw it going up, so we will next meet at Nevada Fall. Get
water at the Little Spring and use your hiking poles to ease knee stress. You will not make
much better time going down due to the loose gravel and unsteady rock trail. When you
arrive at the JMT/Mist Trail junction, continue over to Nevada Fall and return via the
JMT unless darkness is approaching.
Audio
14 Top of Half .Dome
map
Nevada Fall
On your way home, if you are running out of time to get back to the valley safely, then
use the Mist Trail. It is a bit over a mile shorter. The Mist Trail will be a challenge for
your knees but it will save you a lot of time. It may be wet so use caution. I assume you
want to see something new, so continue along the JMT to the Nevada Fall headwaters.
The fall is almost 600 feet high. The river can be very dangerous with smooth rocks, so
keep out! A good cool foot soak is fine. For a nice sidetrip, go down below the bridge
where the fall starts to drop and look up at it. There is a protective railing, so it is safe.
You can see the water as it jets out before heading down. Next, cross the bridge and
continue on the JMT. You will pass an intersection with the Panorama Trail to your left
that leads past Illilouette Fall and on to Glacier Point a long way. Another day.
Audio
15 Nevada Fall
map
Audio
16 Ice Wall
map
Clark Point
Not too long after leaving the Ice Wall you will rapidly descend and soon approach a trail
split at Clark Point. The trail to the right loops back to the area of La Casa Nevada
between Vernal and Nevada Fall. This route would make for a real long day.
Clark Point was named for Galen Clark. When he was 39 he caught tuberculosis and
moved to the Sierra forest to live with his ailment but he recovered. He discovered the
Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and served for 24 years as the guardian of the park in the
years before the formal National Park Service was formed. He later wrote a few books
about the park. He was instrumental in work that led to the Yosemite Grant that was
signed into law by President Abraham Lincoln in 1864. This gave the federal lands of the
Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias to the state of California for
"public use, resort, and recreation ... to be left inalienable for all time. The first such setaside of land for public use.
This overlook affords a good view of Nevada Fall and the canyon across the river. From
here continue down the never-ending switchbacks. Your knees will be thankful that you
did not have to go down the Mist Trail. After reading the signage at Clark Point, go to the
left and continue down an uneventful trail that is occasionally traveled by sure-footed
pack animals. Give them the right-of-way. These are very intelligent mules and horses
that can find their way back home by leaving little trail markers behind them. Watch your
step. Soon you will hear the rushing Merced. You will eventually reach a metal sign that
instructs foot traffic to take a right fork. Left is for pack animals and that way would add
a lot of distance before you got back to Happy Isles. Next you will pass Register Rock
and rejoin the lower Mist Trail. The footbridge will be crowded and you are very close to
the end of your trip.
Audio
17 Clark Point
map
Congratulations! You have officially completed the Half Dome hike in one day. It
normally takes hikers 10 to 12 hours to do. You have covered about 15 1/2 miles. Had
you gone the JMT both ways, it would be closer to 17. You can now head back to your
tent or hotel room. I suggest you do some slow stretching of your quads, calves and
hamstrings. Then get to the shower and directly to dinner. You will sleep well and
possibly suffer leg cramping, depending on how much preparation you did. Sore muscles
are caused by lactic acid and will go away. Gentle walking helps move it around. The
next day you can get your I made it to the top T-Shirt. Now plan your next adventure.
Carpe Diem!
Audio
18 Mileage marker
map
Videos
Hi, Im Mr Half Dome a guy who has a passion for this hunk of granite. Ive put
together some nice videos to add to your experience. They will only be viewable when
you are connected to the internet they come to you via YouTube, so you need a smart
phone or wifi access. Cell coverage is poor in the south shadow of Half Dome and wifi is
spotty in the park. When you are actually doing the Half Dome hike, your battery life will
be key, so I suggest you view them at home or carry a supplemental battery pack. Heres
what you will see:
1. Preparation Water, Boots, Poles.
2. Interview with Royal Robbins - first man up the face of Half Dome in 1957.
3. Inspirational messages by Half Dome veterans.
4. Cable ascent - The full trip up using a head mounted camera.
5. Wedding Proposal on the top of Half Dome.
6. Interview with Ryan Ghelfi - He ran the Half Dome trail in 2 hours 30 minutes.
Summaries:
1. Preparation Treating water, Wearing good boots and using hiking poles are critical on
this hike. These short primers will give you the basics. Practice!
2. Royal Robbins gives us a hiking perspective of Half Dome good tips from the Babe
Ruth of big wall climbing. His autobiography can be found at
www.royalrobbinsthebook.com/
3. Its inspiring to hear from others who have done the hike. Several veterans share what
going up Half Dome meant to them.
4. What you are seeing is a full ascent of Yosemites signature landmark. I am using a
head mounted wide-angle GoPRo HERO camera provided by GoPro.com.
5. On a June day in 2007, a young couple got engaged on the Visor of Half Dome. This
was a random capture.
6. Ryan Ghelfi of Redding CA ran up the hiking route and back in 2 hours. He tells us
about it.
Directors cut:
Video #4 is unlike other videos you may have seen, I filmed going all the way up. You
are going to see every inch of the 425-foot vertical ascent. The cables are at a 45-degree
angle and you actually travel over 600 feet. There are 2 rules regarding Half Dome and
the cables: 1. You cannot camp on top they ended that in 1992 due to human impact and
the encroachment on the habitat of the rare Mt. Lyell Salamander. The 2nd rule is that
you need a permit to be on Sub Dome and the cables. 24/7.
Ive done the hike 28 times and this video will give you a good perspective of the climb.
You can see my rubber coated gloves. A good grip is mandatory. I also wear hiking boots
with good tread for maximum grip. Tennis shoes or other smooth soled shoes will slip on
the smooth granite this route has been here over 90 years with nearly 60,000 people
going up annually.
The cable route is 2-way. People going up have to lean over to allow folks to come down.
The cables are held up by 3-foot pipes that merely rest in about 5-inch deep holes that
were drilled in 1919. They will come out if you pull up on them. There are 68 poles sets
from bottom to top. They are 10-feet apart. At the base of the poles are 2 x 4 inch wood
boards that are strapped to the pipes. They allow you to stand vertical for a brief time.
The cables lie on the rock year round, but the pipes and boards are only installed from
about May 27 to October 10, depending on the snowpack and weather. Avalanches would
bend the pipes if they were left up. You can go up anytime as long as you have a permit.
This is in the Wilderness. Big Wall climbers do not need a permit to descend after their
summit. Ascent during the winter using the cable to rappel is not advised. A woman died
doing this in November 2006 and another woman died in April 2007.
The best way to go up is to go from board to board. If you arrive early you can go at your
pace. If you arrive late, you may be forced to wait between boards. Use your legs as
much as you can but you will need your upper body to pull up. If you are afraid of
heights, dont look down. Do the climb by focusing on the 10-foot segments.
Make sure your water bottles and camera are secured. There are many lost items at the
bottom. The cables are not a continuous run. They are anchored occasionally to the rock
and a fresh one continues. Dont be alarmed when you reach this. There are a few steps in
the rock that you will need to go over. Since the cable route is bi-directional, you will
need to lean over to allow others to pass. Be careful of people with large packs.
Half Dome was not climbed until 1875. George Anderson was the first one to reach the
top by successfully stringing a rope up. Sally Dutcher was the first woman to go up. John
Muir was the 9th. The Anderson rope stayed until it wore out. In 1884, A. Phimister
Proctor and Alden Sampson affixed a replacement rope. When that roped frayed, others
were attached, but ascents became uncommon. The original cables were erected in 1919
and were replaced in 1934 and 1984. Royal Robbins was the first person to go up the face
in 1957.
Audio
19 Videos
Pictures in this guide taken by: MrHalfDome, Rick Deutsch, Yosemite Museum,
National Park Service, CarltonWatkins
Definitely one of the most beautiful and rewarding hikes I've done and one of the most
beautiful views I've ever seen. I could literally spend hours at the top and I would
definitely love to do the hike again!
You can read my full review and experience at half dome (including some sweet photos
of arm balances at the top!) on my blog: http://www.jesliao.com/2011/06/hedgehogs-andjes-on-half-dome.html
But here are a few quick recommendations for hiking half dome in the summer:
- Camp the night before, and if you can arrive at the campsite early so you can get a good
night sleep. It is possible to leave the valley right after the hike, but I would recommend
camping a second night.
- If you are hiking early in the summer and intending on taking the mist trail, pack a
poncho. You will get SOAKED.
- Wool socks over cotton socks. Pack extra socks if you are the type to get blisters. It's a
lot of walking especially if you want to make additional stops to check out the cool
waterfalls and such
- You will be gross after the hike. If you are camping and would like to shower
afterwards, you can do so in Curry Village. So pack a towel and shower stuff and leave it
in the car.
- Leave a pair of flip flops in the car for after the hike (You will be so happy to see them!)
- You don't need to pack a ton of clothing. It is hot at the top and throughout the hike!
- Permits! Rangers were checking for permits BEFORE the hike to sub dome. They were
also checking permits for those coming down. So if you hiked at night without a permit,
stay at the top until at least noon before heading down. Come down when other people
are coming down.
- Bring sunscreen and mosquito repellent, and a hat. it is hot up there!
- Bring cheap rubber gloves for the cables.
- If you are camping, bringing a sleeping pad is a really good idea
- The buffet at curry village is expensive and NASTY (even after the hike when you feel
like you could eat anything and feel like it tasted good)
I can put aside the crowd factor for this one! I love this hike. It is also a great side trip on
any backpacking journey out of Yosemite Valley. My only gripe is how unprepared some
people come. Like in flip flops, out of shape, etc. If it only affected them I would have no
problem with it, but when the entire line on the cables stops for 5-10 minutes at a time, it
makes it harder for everyone else. The cables were really frustrating, I ended up
navigating my way around everyone on the outside for my sanity. Well worth the
amazing view on top though! Would do it again in a heart beat.
Visited on Oct 10, 2009
by Gonnadiehiking on Jun 07, 2011 at 10:37:39 am
After seeing so many hikers trying to hike Half Dome in the weekdays of the 2010 season
because of the permit restriction on weekends, I'm not suprised to see that the premit is
required for every day in the 2011 season.
by jasonchiu on Jan 03, 2011 at 01:50:50 am
I just made my 1st trip up half dome on 8/16/10 and your guide is very accurate. I will be
back & next time will get to the top earlier to avid the crowds. Most rewording hike I've
ever done. To anyone that can, do it & you will be glad you did. See my experience by
searching my username on you tube
by itsbigrob on Aug 30, 2010 at 07:29:48 pm
I came down early Thursday from top and there was a continuas flow of people heading
up. When I came down the cables @6:15am I was the only one on them :)
by psalm19 on Aug 17, 2010 at 07:12:00 pm
I think Thursday did become the busiest day to hike Half Dome in the week. I hiked on
7/29 and saw more hikers than the weekend last year.
by jasonchiu on Aug 09, 2010 at 03:04:15 pm
@Whofan Thanks for the feedback! I have updated the guide regarding little yosemite
valley.
by chris on Aug 09, 2010 at 02:21:38 pm
Well done write up! I did it a month ago on a Monday and it took 65 min. to get to the top
of the cables. Next summer I'll try one of the permit days to see if it is less people.
Just one thing, there is no fresh water at little Yosemite campground. You will need a
filter there. I didn't have one but I brought a 100 oz hydration pack, two 32 oz bottles and
one 24 oz and almost ran out!
by Whofan on Aug 09, 2010 at 11:26:03 am
I wouldn't be suprised if they start issuing permits on weekdays. I was just there on a
Thursday and waited 45 minutes just to get on the cables. The weekend permit system
seems to be pushing the traffic into weekdays.
by tbone123 on Jul 25, 2010 at 08:12:24 pm
The newly released video from the park provides great and detailed information on
hiking Half Dome.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/photosmultimedia/hikinghalfdome.htm
by jasonchiu on Jun 23, 2010 at 02:27:21 pm
Two rangers from the park are posted at the base of subdome to check permits for Half
Dome hikers during weekends and holidays.
by jasonchiu on Jun 22, 2010 at 04:44:54 pm
The cables are now up for Half Dome. Remember if you plan to hike on Friday, Saturday,
or Sunday, you will need to get a permit:
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm
by chris on Jun 16, 2010 at 02:20:22 pm
I took this hike a few years ago, a wonderful experience on a gorgeous August day.
I was surprised to see crowds - including crying children - up the cables with scant
equipment. Too many seemed unprepared and improvised enthusiasts. Some were even
wearing slippery beach sandals. I'm an experienced mountaineer and helped a couple of
panicking kids. Like I did, I suggest to bring a simple piece of rope and a carabiner to
secure yourself to the cable. Two-way traffic in the cables area can be dangerous.
Make sure you bring along plenty of water, say two quarts per person to say the least.
by ant1606 on Mar 27, 2010 at 04:55:30 am
Thanks for your write up. I've been up Half Dome 5-6 times but the last was more than
10 years ago. Reading your description brought it all back. Thanks! I think it's time for
another trip!
I've only done this as a 3 or 4 day trip with the camp setup in Little Yosemite. Great fun,
and a guaranteed bear visit or three if you stay there!
by francoispepin on Dec 03, 2009 at 01:17:18 pm
This is a great hike and I recommend it to anyone who has the time (and energy) to
attempt it. The first time I did it was a few years ago with my younger brother and Dad
on his 50th birthday (I guess he had to prove he was still young). The second time I went
with 2 friends and we tried to get to the top for sunrise. We missed it by about 45 minutes
because we got a late start leaving from San Francisco, but it was still worth it. The hike
back wasn't very pleasant as one of my friends got sick from the altitude and we had to
go very slowly back. The final time we got in a car crash on the way to Yosemite, but that
didn't keep us from getting to the top. We had to hurry back because I had finals the next
day. If you go early in the season (early June), the waterfalls are very full--just beautiful.
Hopefully your trips go a little more smoothly than mine.