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SKIN CARE FORMULARY

Tri-phase Lotion
(Crations Couleurs)
This skin care treatment includes an antiaging active that does not disrupt the
barrier function of skin because it is surfactant-free.
A. Hydrogenated polydecen (Alphaflow 20 Crations Couleurs)
10.00% w/w
Isododecane (Creasil ID CG, Crations Couleurs)
12.00
Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) hydrogenated polydecene
(and) hydrogenated C614 olefin polymers (Dedraflow 5.1,
Crations Couleurs)
4.00
Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil (Meadowfoam
Seed Oil, NPP)
2.00
Fragrance (parfum)
0.50
Hydrogenated polydecene (and) Yellow 11 (CI 47000)
(D&C Yellow 11, 0.06% in Alphaflow 30, Crations Couleurs) 0.50
B. Water (aqua)
qs to 100.00
Disodium EDTA
0.05
Chlorphenesin
0.20
C. Glycerin
2.00
Natrium chloride
1.00
Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) glycerin (and) natto gum
(and) chlorphenesin (Biomethics Collagen, Crations Couleurs) 5.00
Water (aqua) (and) CI 42090 (Blue 1) (FD&C Blue No.1,
0.15% in H2O, Crations Couleurs)
0.20
D. Perfluorohexane (and) perfluoropherhydrophenanthrene (and)
perfluorodecalin (and) perfluorodimethylcyclohexane
(Fiflow BTX, Crations Couleurs)
30.00
Procedure: Mix A. Heat B to 60C. Let the mixture cool to below 30C and
add C to B. Add BC to D, then add BCD to A and stir for 2 min. Note: A
sufficient preservative system must be included; microbiological stability is
not guaranteed.

Moisturizing Lotion
(Phoenix Chemical Inc.)
A cold emulsion process produces this oil-free, petrolatum-free, non-greasy face
and body lotion utilizing structured micelle aggregates. The lotion does not leave
a greasy or tacky feel.
A. Triethylhexanoate (Pelemol GTO, Phoenix Chemical)
8.00% w/w
Triisostearin (Pelemol GTIS, Phoenix Chemical)
4.00
Isononyl isononanoate (and) ethylhexyl isononanoate
(Pelemol 899, Phoenix Chemical)
4.00
Isocetyl behenate (Pelemol ICB, Phoenix Chemical)
3.50
Trimethylolpropane triisostearate (Pelemol TMPIS, Phoenix Chemical) 3.00
bis(Trioctyldodecyl citryl) dilinoleate (Pelemol C-150,
Phoenix Chemical)
3.00
Perfluorononyl dimethicone (Pecosil FSL-300, Phoenix Chemical) 0.75
Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil (Cropure Olive, Croda)
0.50
Fragrance (parfum) (XBF-800035 Garden in Bloom, IFF)
0.01
B. Polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isononyl isononanoate (and)
ethylhexyl isononanoate (and) sodium cocamidopropyl
PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PhoenoMulse 100,
Phoenix Chemical)
43.24
C. Water (aqua)
21.40
D. PEG-8 (Phoenoxide E-400, Phoenix Chemical)
3.00
Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) (Gelcarin PC-379,
Earth Supplied Products)
0.40
Xanthan gum (Keltrol CG-T, CP Kelco)
0.40
PVP/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (Pecogel H-12,
Phoenix Chemical)
0.50
E. Glycerin (and) Triticum vulgare (wheat) gluten (and) water (aqua)
(Dragoderm, Symrise)
1.00
Dehydroacetic acid (and) phenoxyethanol (and) benzoic acid
(Euxyl TPI-1824, Schlke inc.)
0.30
Procedure: Combine A with low speed, low sheet mixing. Mix until uniform (12
min) at 2030C. Slowly add A to B while mixing with high shear, high-speed
dispersion mill (low speed). Final mix at medium to high-speed to 35 sec at
2030C. Combine D with low speed, low shear prop mixer until uniform (12
min) at 2025C. Add D to C with low speed, low shear prop type mixer. Mix
until uniform (12 min) at 2025C. Heat to 8590C with slow prop mixer.
Hold for 1 min and then cool to 3035C with slow prop type mixing. Add
AB to CD with low-speed, low shear, prop type mixing. Mix until uniform (15
min). Do not aerate. Add E with low-speed, low shear mixing until uniform
(12 min).

62 | Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Vol. 124, No. 1/January 2009