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SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD

By Joshua Slocum, 1900.
A Ria Press Edition, June 2005.
TO THE ONE WHO SAID:
"THE 'SPRAY' WILL COME BACK."
CHAPTER I
A blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities--Youthful fondness for the sea--Ma
ster of the ship Northern Light--Loss of the Aquidneck--Return home from Brazil
in the canoe Liberdade--The gift of a "ship"--The rebuilding of the Spray-Conund
rums in regard to finance and calking--The launching of the Spray.
In the fair land of Nova Scotia, a maritime province, there is a ridge called
North Mountain, overlooking the Bay of Fundy on one side and the fertile Annapo
lis valley on the other. On the northern slope of the range grows the hardy spru
ce-tree, well adapted for ship-timbers, of which many vessels of all classes hav
e been built. The people of this coast, hardy, robust, and strong, are disposed
to compete in the world's commerce, and it is nothing against the master mariner
if the birthplace mentioned on his certificate be Nova Scotia. I was born in a
cold spot, on coldest North Mountain, on a cold February 20, though I am a citiz
en of the United States--a naturalized Yankee, if it may be said that Nova Scoti
ans are not Yankees in the truest sense of the word. On both sides my family wer
e sailors; and if any Slocum should be found not seafaring, he will show at leas
t an inclination to whittle models of boats and contemplate voyages. My father w
as the sort of man who, if wrecked on a desolate island, would find his way home
, if he had a jack-knife and could find a tree. He was a good judge of a boat, b
ut the old clay farm which some calamity made his was an anchor to him. He was n
ot afraid of a capful of wind, and he never took a back seat at a camp-meeting o
r a good, old-fashioned revival.
As for myself, the wonderful sea charmed me from the first. At the age of eig
ht I had already been afloat along with other boys on the bay, with chances grea
tly in favor of being drowned. When a lad I filled the important post of cook on
a fishing-schooner; but I was not long in the galley, for the crew mutinied at
the appearance of my first duff, and "chucked me out" before I had a chance to s
hine as a culinary artist. The next step toward the goal of happiness found me b
efore the mast in a full-rigged ship bound on a foreign voyage. Thus I came "ove
r the bows," and not in through the cabin windows, to the command of a ship.
My best command was that of the magnificent ship Northern Light, of which I w
as part-owner. I had a right to be proud of her, for at that time--in the eighti
es--she was the finest American sailing-vessel afloat. Afterward I owned and sai
led the Aquidneck, a little bark which of all man's handiwork seemed to me the n
earest to perfection of beauty, and which in speed, when the wind blew, asked no
favors of steamers, I had been nearly twenty years a shipmaster when I quit her
deck on the coast of Brazil, where she was wrecked. My home voyage to New York
with my family was made in the canoe Liberdade, without accident.
My voyages were all foreign. I sailed as freighter and trader principally to
China, Australia, and Japan, and among the Spice Islands. Mine was not the sort
of life to make one long to coil up one's ropes on land, the customs and ways of
which I had finally almost forgotten. And so when times for freighters got bad,
as at last they did, and I tried to quit the sea, what was there for an old sai
lor to do? I was born in the breezes, and I had studied the sea as perhaps few m
en have studied it, neglecting all else. Next in attractiveness, after seafaring
, came ship-building. I longed to be master in both professions, and in a small
way, in time, I accomplished my desire. From the decks of stout ships in the wor
st gales I had made calculations as to the size and sort of ship safest for all

weather and all seas. Thus the voyage which I am now to narrate was a natural ou
tcome not only of my love of adventure, but of my lifelong experience.
One midwinter day of 1892, in Boston, where I had been cast up from old ocean
, so to speak, a year or two before, I was cogitating whether I should apply for
a command, and again eat my bread and butter on the sea, or go to work at the s
hipyard, when I met an old acquaintance, a whaling-captain, who said: "Come to F
airhaven and I'll give you a ship. But," he added, "she wants some repairs." The
captain's terms, when fully explained, were more than satisfactory to me. They
included all the assistance I would require to fit the craft for sea. I was only
too glad to accept, for I had already found that I could not obtain work in the
shipyard without first paying fifty dollars to a society, and as for a ship to
command--there were not enough ships to go round. Nearly all our tall vessels ha
d been cut down for coal-barges, and were being ignominiously towed by the nose
from port to port, while many worthy captains addressed themselves to Sailors' S
nug Harbor.
The next day I landed at Fairhaven, opposite New Bedford, and found that my f
riend had something of a joke on me. For seven years the joke had been on him. T
he "ship" proved to be a very antiquated sloop called the Spray, which the neigh
bors declared had been built in the year 1. She was affectionately propped up in
a field, some distance from salt water, and was covered with canvas. The people
of Fairhaven, I hardly need say, are thrifty and observant. For seven years the
y had asked, "I wonder what Captain Eben Pierce is going to do with the old Spra
y?" The day I appeared there was a buzz at the gossip exchange: at last some one
had come and was actually at work on the old Spray. "Breaking her up, I s'pose?
" "No; going to rebuild her." Great was the amazement. "Will it pay?" was the qu
estion which for a year or more I answered by declaring that I would make it pay
.
My ax felled a stout oak-tree near by for a keel, and Farmer Howard, for a sm
all sum of money, hauled in this and enough timbers for the frame of the new ves
sel. I rigged a steam-box and a pot for a boiler. The timbers for ribs, being st
raight saplings, were dressed and steamed till supple, and then bent over a log,
where they were secured till set. Something tangible appeared every day to show
for my labor, and the neighbors made the work sociable. It was a great day in t
he Spray shipyard when her new stem was set up and fastened to the new keel. Wha
ling-captains came from far to survey it. With one voice they pronounced it "A 1
," and in their opinion "fit to smash ice." The oldest captain shook my hand war
mly when the breast-hooks were put in, declaring that he could see no reason why
the Spray should not "cut in bow-head" yet off the coast of Greenland. The much
-esteemed stem-piece was from the butt of the smartest kind of a pasture oak. It
afterward split a coral patch in two at the Keeling Islands, and did not receiv
e a blemish. Better timber for a ship than pasture white oak never grew. The bre
ast-hooks, as well as all the ribs, were of this wood, and were steamed and bent
into shape as required. It was hard upon March when I began work in earnest; th
e weather was cold; still, there were plenty of inspectors to back me with advic
e. When a whaling-captain hove in sight I just rested on my adz awhile and "gamm
ed" with him.
New Bedford, the home of whaling-captains, is connected with Fairhaven by a b
ridge, and the walking is good. They never "worked along up" to the shipyard too
often for me. It was the charming tales about arctic whaling that inspired me t
o put a double set of breast-hooks in the Spray, that she might shunt ice.
The seasons came quickly while I worked. Hardly were the ribs of the sloop up
before apple-trees were in bloom. Then the daisies and the cherries came soon a
fter. Close by the place where the old Spray had now dissolved rested the ashes
of John Cook, a revered Pilgrim father. So the new Spray rose from hallowed grou
nd. From the deck of the new craft I could put out my hand and pick cherries tha

t grew over the little grave. The planks for the new vessel, which I soon came t
o put on, were of Georgia pine an inch and a half thick. The operation of puttin
g them on was tedious, but, when on, the calking was easy. The outward edges sto
od slightly open to receive the calking, but the inner edges were so close that
I could not see daylight between them. All the butts were fastened by through bo
lts, with screw-nuts tightening them to the timbers, so that there would be no c
omplaint from them. Many bolts with screw-nuts were used in other parts of the c
onstruction, in all about a thousand. It was my purpose to make my vessel stout
and strong.
Now, it is a law in Lloyd's that the Jane repaired all out of the old until s
he is entirely new is still the Jane. The Spray changed her being so gradually t
hat it was hard to say at what point the old died or the new took birth, and it
was no matter. The bulwarks I built up of white-oak stanchions fourteen inches h
igh, and covered with seven-eighth-inch white pine. These stanchions, mortised t
hrough a two-inch covering-board, I calked with thin cedar wedges. They have rem
ained perfectly tight ever since. The deck I made of one-and-a-half-inch by thre
e-inch white pine spiked to beams, six by six inches, of yellow or Georgia pine,
placed three feet apart. The deck-inclosures were one over the aperture of the
main hatch, six feet by six, for a cooking-galley, and a trunk farther aft, abou
t ten feet by twelve, for a cabin. Both of these rose about three feet above the
deck, and were sunk sufficiently into the hold to afford head-room. In the spac
es along the sides of the cabin, under the deck, I arranged a berth to sleep in,
and shelves for small storage, not forgetting a place for the medicine-chest. I
n the midship hold, that is, the space between cabin and galley, under the deck,
was room for provision of water, salt beef, etc., ample for many months.
The hull of my vessel being now put together as strongly as wood and iron cou
ld make her, and the various rooms partitioned off, I set about "calking ship."
Grave fears were entertained by some that at this point I should fail. I myself
gave some thought to the advisability of a "professional calker." The very first
blow I struck on the cotton with the calking-iron, which I thought was right, m
any others thought wrong. "It'll crawl!" cried a man from Marion, passing with a
basket of clams on his back. "It'll crawl!" cried another from West Island, whe
n he saw me driving cotton into the seams. Bruno simply wagged his tail. Even Mr
. Ben J----, a noted authority on whaling-ships, whose mind, however, was said t
o totter, asked rather confidently if I did not think "it would crawl." "How fas
t will it crawl?" cried my old captain friend, who had been towed by many a live
ly sperm-whale. "Tell us how fast," cried he, "that we may get into port in time
."
However, I drove a thread of oakum on top of the cotton, as from the first I
had intended to do. And Bruno again wagged his tail. The cotton never "crawled."
When the calking was finished, two coats of copper paint were slapped on the bo
ttom, two of white lead on the topsides and bulwarks. The rudder was then shippe
d and painted, and on the following day the Spray was launched. As she rode at h
er ancient, rust-eaten anchor, she sat on the water like a swan.
The Spray's dimensions were, when finished, thirty-six feet nine inches long,
over all, fourteen feet two inches wide, and four feet two inches deep in the h
old, her tonnage being nine tons net and twelve and seventy-one hundredths tons
gross.
Then the mast, a smart New Hampshire spruce, was fitted, and likewise all the
small appurtenances necessary for a short cruise. Sails were bent, and away she
flew with my friend Captain Pierce and me, across Buzzard's Bay on a trial-trip
--all right. The only thing that now worried my friends along the beach was, "Wi
ll she pay?" The cost of my new vessel was $553.62 for materials, and thirteen m
onths of my own labor. I was several months more than that at Fairhaven, for I g
ot work now and then on an occasional whale-ship fitting farther down the harbor
, and that kept me the overtime.

Every parti cle of water thrown into the air became a gem. a lovely branch of Gloucester's fine harbor. then Marblehead was put astern. set sail. and have a care. and as the wind on the morning of April 24. offic ered. and much broken ca nvas hung in his rigging. lay stranded and broken. So in the first hour of my lone voyage I had p roof that the Spray could at least do better than this full-handed steamship. almost. where a great steamship. Spray. but none of them passed the Spray flying along on her course. with a craft of any size. and swung past the ferries with lively heels. at noon I weighed anc hor. she squared away direct for Gloucester to procure there some fish ermen's stores. It was my first experience of coming into port alone. This was the Venetian. The day was perfect. Old fishermen ran down to the wharf for which the Spray was hea ding. I let go the wheel. from the effects of a squall. Her good angel had embar ked on the voyage. Other vessels wer e outward bound. A photographer on the outer pier at East Boston got a picture of her as she swept by. Waves dancing joyously across Massachusetts Bay met her coming o ut of the harbor to dash them into myriads of sparkling gems that hung about her at every surge." I uttered aloud to my bark. Passing it. and the Spray. I hardly know how a calamit y was averted. I made for the cove. but the Spray flung out a bo w of her own that day. Bold Nahant was soon abeam. steppe . and the Spray rounded Deer Island light at the rate of se ven knots. But at last the time arrived to weigh anchor and get to sea in earnest. and piloted. where the Spray had been moored snug ly all winter. We ha ve all seen miniature rainbows about a ship's prow. the wind being fair. She was broke n completely in two over a ledge.CHAPTER II Failure as a fisherman--A voyage around the world projected--From Boston to Glou cester--Fitting out for the ocean voyage--Half of a dory for a ship's boat--The run from Gloucester to Nova Scotia--A shaking up in home waters--Among old frien ds. I heard the clanking of the dismal bell on Norman's Woe as we went by. fo r I was already farther on my voyage than she. I saw that some of his sails were gone. The twelve-o'clock whistles were blowing just as the sloop shot a head under full sail.1895. fully manned. but with my heart in my mouth. apparently intent upon braining herself there. such as I had never seen before. I felt that there could be no turning back. and my feelings. and in among shipping. I had resolved on a voyage around the world. only to find that I ha d not the cunning properly to bait a hook. the sunlight clear and strong. The wind still freshening. The bay was feather-white as my little vessel tore in. with her boom well off to port. I so read it in the sea. I s ettled the throat of the mainsail to ease the sloop's helm. "Take warning. her flag at the peak throwing its folds cl ear. and filled away from Boston. and the re ef where the schooner Hesperus struck I passed close aboard. smothered in foam. sn atched necklace after necklace from the sea. passing fairylike silently down the bay. and as often threw them away. bounding ahead. for I could hardly h old her before it with the whole mainsail set. A short board was made up the harbor on the port tack. My step was light on deck in the crisp a ir. for I had a right to my own opinions in matters pertaining to the sea. and that I was engaging in an ad venture the meaning of which I thoroughly understood. As the Spray bru shed by the stranger. again to lo ok the Spray over and again to weigh the voyage. the n coming about she stood seaward. I had taken little advice from any one. I spent a season in my new craft fishing on the coast. The "bones" of a wr eck tossed up lay bleaching on the shore abreast. and all that. A thrilling pulse beat high in me. A schooner ahead of me lowered al l sail and ran into port under bare poles. was fair. The wind freshened. That the best of sailors might do worse than even I alone was borne in upon me not a league from Boston docks.

after all. "Oh. boarding up the end where it was cut. that the first cause of it was f orgotten altogether. which now took up my case. They also made the Spray a present of a "fisherman's own" lant ern. A gaff. I slapped two coats of this paint on the bott om of the Spray while she lay a tide or so on the hard beach. Being thus refitted I was once more ready for sea. for the front of a tall factory was a flutter of handkerchiefs and caps. in gathering headway. In our newfangled notions of navigation it is supposed that a mariner cannot find his w ay without one. and was large enough for one man. being puttied and pai nted for a summer voyage. close by. My old chron ometer. which lighted the cabin at night. A whole dory would be heavy and awkward to handle alone. as the Spray stood out of the cove. which I found would throw a light a great distance round. wh ich was his way of saying that I was off. There was nothing to pay for above fiv e cents' worth of paint. and a lady in Boston sent me the price of a large two-burner cabin lamp. that she would not have broken an egg." echoed the captain of the Bluebird. Then. The sloop naturally rounded in the wind. put on board dry cod galore. They were old skippers themselves. a famous antifouling article. Then a chee r went up from the little crowd on the wharf. fine-weather craft in the fairway. The owners of the wharf where I l ay. I remained in Gloucester about two weeks. Indeed. moreover. "Who'll pay for that?" growled the painters. laid her cheek against a mooring-pile at the windward co rner of the wharf. a ship th at would run another down having such a good light aboard would be capable of ru nning into a light-ship. which. On the point ahead." said I. were also put aboard. scratche d the paint off an old. and my wish was not to appear green. and I had myself drifted into this way of thinking. for I was still quite nervous and short of breath. where the Dutchman left his anchor. was a lively picture. my weight was rather less th an the fifteenth part of a ton. which stood me in good stead long after. I made shift to cut a castaway dory in two athwarts hips. from a cross the cove came a case of copper paint. and of many fishing-vessels. and by some small contriving served for a stove through the day. fitting out with the various articl es for the voyage most readily obtained there. It would cost fifteen dollars to cl ean and rate it. but I said nothing. I had the great lantern. also a barrel of o il to calm the waves.d quickly forward. and took a great intere st in the voyage. With little room in which to turn. Very leisurely I passed a rope around the post. "if you weighed a ton!" Now. Fifteen dollars! For sufficient reasons I left that timepiece a t home. no bill was sent after me. for some of the ablest sailors in the world were looking at me. a pugh. "You couldn't 'a' done it better." cried an old skipper. fo r I had a mind to stay in Gloucester several days. I percei ved. Had I uttered a word it surel y would have betrayed me. "I will. The want of a chronometer for the voyage was all that now worried me. only putting on a look of ca reless indifference to say for me. and she had to have it. Pretty faces peered o . a good one. after all. She could see with one eye that it was a ne w invention which beat any Yankee notion ever brought by missionaries to the isl ands. For a boat to take along. by hooking the throat-halyards into a strop fitte d for the purpose. so quietly. the Spray. This half-dory I could hoist in and out by the nose easily enough. and on May 7 again made sa il. that the newly arranged craft would answer for a washing-machine when placed athwartships. Indeed. "With the main-sheet. and just ranging ahead. and downed the jib. maybe. Mani festly there was not room on deck for more than the half of a boat. for the former office my razeed dory gained such a reputation on the voyage that my washerwoman at Sa moa would not take no for an answer. and a dip-net. and she was moored. but such a din was raised between the old "hooke r" and the Bluebird. Anyhow. The weather was mild on the day of my departure from Gloucester. was better than no boat at all. that's nothing". had been long in disuse. and also for a bath-tub. top. all of which an old fish erman declared I could not sail without.

in thirty fathoms of water. not to sleep. for the first time at sea alone. This was exactly what happened to the Spray--in my dream! I could not shake it off entirely when I awoke and found that it was the wind blowing and the heavy sea now running that had disturbed m y short rest. a hundred pairs of arms reached out. and so I sailed on. Here I rest ed a day. but to doze and to dream." and I accordingly changed it to that. all plump and spry. best of all. It is known that a Briar Islander. I came among vessels the following afternoon on the western fishing-grounds. never flinches from a sea. stretched along the coast among many islands and ove r a tranquil sea. she came up with a considerabl e island. all smiling bon vo yage. not omitting a full account of my adventure with the whale. I lay down. At evening of this day. There was one thing I was sure of. and if I was alone. I thought. headed her away for Monhegan light. which I shall always think of as the Island of Frogs. because he dodged a sea that slopped over the rail. and setti ng what canvas the sloop could carry. a small hal ibut. The Spray. and that was that he did not belong to Briar's Island. The current being southwest. Some hailed me to know where away and why alone. The wind being free. But the followin g day was fine enough. A scud was flying across the moon. sounded for bottom-fish. Thence shaping her course east. i ntermittent light. heading east. I had only said that I would sail round the world in the Spray. Before he made up his mind to answer me at all. and got into Westport harbor in Nova Scotia. to go north of Cashes Ledge and the Amen Rocks. so I put out a sea-anchor that wou ld hold her head to windward. while the wind rattled among the pine-trees on shore. and sometimes Gannet Rock. then hauled in my sea-anchor. and. where I had spent eight years of my life as a lad. and baiting a hook. and if I didn't have "no dorg nor no cat. would be the place to take in a good stock of provisions above what I already had. lan ding on deck three cod and two haddocks. which she made before daylight on the morning of the 8th. but I thought he said "east-northeast. whereon is a bright. He ju . lost a fine cod wh ich he was about to ship." but I must have said it very much in earnest. fish or no fish on his hook. which flashed fitfully across the Spray's deck as she coasted along under its light and shade. This. a nd being towed a long way and at great speed. on the edge of Cashes Ledge. I reefed the sails. Why? When I made as if to stand in. May 10. I sat and considered the matter all over again. but the shore was dangerous! The sloop worked out of the bay against a light southwest wind." the course I was steering when I hailed him. first writing up my log from Cape Ann. The "charter-party" with myself seemed to bind me. indeed.ut of the windows from the top to the bottom of the building. receiving at the same time a hearty s alute--the last of many kindnesses to her at Gloucester. and asked m yself once more whether it were best to sail beyond the ledge and rocks at all. one hake. which is a little port east from Pemaquid. I ran o n into Round Pond harbor. and said come. it was already stormy. Toward night I hauled the sl oop to the wind. who gave me a wrong course. against the wind." It was the first time in all my life at sea t hat I had heard a hail for information answered by a question. and about noon squared away off Eastern Point. With fair success I hauled till dark. the Spray saile d directly over the southwest ledge through the worst tide-race in the Bay of Fu ndy. I had read somewhere of a fishing-schooner hooking her anchor into a whale. for the Spray wa s charmed by a million voices. A storm was brewing. Then "stradding" the cable and putting my great lantern in the rigging. "dangers of the sea excepted. and I put to sea. he improved the occa sion of his own curiosity to know where I was from. The wind freshened off the point. and stopping to brush the water from his face. The fisherman may have said "east-southeast. I f elt quite sure I would find the Spray still on the bank or near it in the mornin g. Thence shaping a course for Briar's Island. I think the chap belonged to the Foreign Islands. the Spray was soon off Thatcher's Island lights. From the Island of Frogs we made for the Island o f Birds. My islander would not have done that. by compass. and skipping along smoothly. called Gannet Island. and a fter speaking a fisherman at anchor.

but in an evil momen t he put the dudeen. except that it looked a deal smaller. took in some butter for the voyage. for did not I know the roof where we boys. also a barrel of potatoes. Mr. to be taken on a dark night. Fresh breeze N." Before the sun went down I was taking my supper of strawberries and tea i n smooth water under the lee of the east-coast land. Then I sailed.W. to the intense delight of the young people. but on account of the face being smashed the merchant let me ha ve it for a dollar. putting into Yarmouth the following day on account of fog and head wind. The log of my first day on the Atlantic in the Spr ay reads briefly: "9:30 A. In fact. At Yarmouth. after a rude gale. The Spray was again at her best . the head sea having gone down. I was in no hurry to round Cape Sable. At Briar's Island I overhauled the Spray once more and tried her seams.M. The sloop making eight knots. and le t go my last hold on America. for the boisterous Atlantic was before me . the wind came out nor'west and clear. along which the Spray was n ow leisurely skirting. who did no t realize that to catch good fish one must have good bait. three cables from the land. Bad weather and much head wind prevailing outside. Nansen sailed in search of the north pole with his crew of thirteen. Then I gave the lanyards a pull and hitched them afresh. I got my famous tin c lock. In his day he was fond of the gun. while listening to a sermon in the littl e church on the hill. 4:30 P. The little shop round the corner. sailed from Yarmouth. distance. propitious for a good run. and saw that the gammon was secure. however. was the same. lighted. CHAPTER III Good-by to the American coast--Off Sable Island in a fog--In the open sea--The m an in the moon takes an interest in the voyage--The first fit of loneliness--The Spray encounters La Vaguisa--A bottle of wine from the Spaniard--A bout of word s with the captain of the Java--The steamship Olympia spoken--Arrival at the Azo res. Any port at all would have been delightful after the terrible thrashing I got in the fierce sou'west rip. At noon on July 3 Ironbound Island was abeam. I mad e a short excursion with some friends to St. and to find myse lf among old schoolmates now was charming. and stowed all under deck. and 13 is my lucky number--a fact registered long before Dr.st tends to his lines and hauls or "saws. reach out his hand over the door of his pew and "jig" imag inary squid in the aisle. Lowry was an e ccentric man. The price of it was a do llar and a half. an old cruising-ground. too. night after night. The very stones on Briar's Island I was glad to see again. but f ound that even the test of the sou'west rip had started nothing. for even in summer on e may meet with bad weather in the crossing. and I sent the topmast down. I sailed from Yarmouth. also that the boat was lashed. filled six barr els of water. and I knew them al l. On July 1. in the pocket among the powder. the thing most on the deacon's mind. hunted for the skin of a black cat. I now stowed all my goods securely. Mary's Bay. which for thirty-five years I had not seen. passed Cape Sable.M. to make a plast er for a poor lame man? Lowry the tailor lived there when boys were boys. knowing that the Spray would be the wholesomer wi th it on deck. D---. It wore the same shingles-I was sure of it. On the following day. the only timepiece I carried on the whole voyage." Nay. It was the 13th of the month. a good man of the island. have I not seen my old friend De acon W. many weeks of bad weather had prevailed. I was delighted to reach Westport. He always carried his powder loose in the tail pock et of his coat. He usually had in his mouth a short dudeen. and back to the island. I spent some days pleasantly enough in Yarmouth . Perhaps he had heard of my success in taking a most extraordinary ship successfully to Brazil with that number of cre w.

"Good ev ening. the wind increasing to a gale.M. and my vessel held her course. I watched light after light sink astern as I sailed into the unbounded sea. on the night of her terrible disaster. By the lead. taking my departure from George's Island before dark to sail east of Sable Island. the small. The Spray put her hull down astern in five hours. he had my confidence on the voyage. The fog. I was reminded the more palpably of my condition. At 9:40 P. telling what I had heard them tell in many corners of the earth. About midnight the fog shut down again denser than ever before. which till this mome nt had held off. near Halifax harbor. I crowded on sail to cross the track of the liners without loss of time. Then I turned my face eastward. and while she sailed I slept. to realize what it meant. crying. The Spray was then alone. I had been steerin g southeast by south. then came the sense of solitude. On the evening of July 5 the Spray. the insignificant. south-southwest. "Is she on her course?" But getting no reply. did not see. the great. I found that a little after midnight I was passing the east po int of the island. which I could not shake off. I heard all the voices of the past laughing . sir.M. I set my flag and squared away. During these days a feeling of awe crept over me. the liner Atlantic. was below the horizon. heading southeast. and that of three lighthouses built on it since 1880. she dropped into a smo oth lane." Many a long talk since then I have had with the man in the moon. where it would disturb no one? My musical talent had never bred envy in oth ers. "Eight bells. for I had been told that from disuse I should lose my speech . at 6 A. an insect on a straw in the midst of the el ements. I did not see any more of the light. Still. wh ich I cast often. the wonderful. there?" and again. The loneliness of my state wore off when the gale was high and I found much w ork to do.M. One could alm ost "stand on it. shut off from the universe. A large schooner came out of Liverpool. till Sambro. the commonplace--all appeared before my mental vision in magical succession. Neptune himself coming over the bows could not have startled me more. Nova Scotia. "I'm glad to see you. this morning. why not try that now. and to r each as soon as possible the friendly Gulf Stream. I used my voice often. which may also be called the Island of Tragedies. and should soon be clear of dangers of land and shoals. I lashed the helm. carries a noble light. it was not long befor e the thought came to me that when I was a lad I used to sing. The ominous. The w ind was holding free. Sambro. but the wind hauling forward a bit. I was in a world of fog. but out on the Atlantic. now lowered over the sea like a pall. in the dismal fog I f elt myself drifting into loneliness. I raised the sheen only of the light on the west end of Sable Island. after having steered all day over a lumpy sea. and at 8:30 A. At the meridian altitude of the sun I called aloud. I watched it go down and out of sight.. however." after the c ustom on a ship at sea. she held her course. you should have heard me . and there. though it was from the foggy point. When fine weather returned.." I cried. The waves rose high. It is said that within a few years Sable Island has been reduced from forty miles in length to twenty. the last of them all. but I had a good ship. at first giving some order about the affairs of a ship. The fog lifting before night. the Rock of Lamen tations. My memory worked with start ling power. and I dropped the practice. "How does she head. her very best work. However. was the smiling full moon rising out of the sea . apparently at the very end of the bowsprit. At 6:45 P. steering ea stward. There are many beacon lights along the coast. Again from my cabin I cried to an imaginary man at the h elm. I was afforded a look at the sun just as it was touching the sea. Jul y 4. My voice sounded hol low on the empty air. and sailing on. two have been washed away and the third will soon be engulfed. I put in double reefs.M. which." It continued so for a number of days. Pa ges of my history were recalled which had been so long forgotten that they seeme d to belong to a previous existence. I was in close under Chebucto Head light. took it into her head to go without the helmsman's aid. turned out all reefs. and making about eight knots.

) "Mate. In the log for July 18 there is this entry: "Fine weather. But the porpoises were. The wind was south. They drew steadily all night. making poor headway. But when I asked him to report me "all well" (the Spray passing him in a lively manner). who knew of my expedition. "Dunno. three points on the weather bow. "I left Cape Sable fourteen days ago. wind south-southwe st. as I came within hail of him. and a large bark. and my little sloop passing his great ship had somewhat the effect on him that a red r ag has upon a bull. Had the Spray been going a little faster she would have scooped him in. he hauled hi s shoulders much above his head." he roared to his chief officer--"mate. hull down. mate. poked the ir heads up out of the sea as I sang "Johnny Boker. by the way. I admired the businesslike air of the Olympia. come here and listen to the Yankee's yarn.M. By sundown he was as far astern as he had been ahead the evening b efore. but found all well. I did not s ee him again. There was now less and less monotony. threw a line to me and sent a bottle of wine across slung by t he neck. by long odds. vastly more a ppreciative than the turtles. hull down. his ship was h eavy and foul." I shouted back as loud as I could bawl. At least. On July 16 the wind was northwest and c lear. t old him that I was alone. Her old captain was bearish." At this the mate on the forecastle wore a broad grin. On the evening of July 14. which bore the name o f Juan Gantes. bound for Vigo. My ship was sailing along now without attention to the helm. The sea-birds sailed around rather shy. the sea smooth." shouted the captain.. with a great mainsail belly ing even to light winds. (I was now well across toward the Azores. A merry breeze kept on from the south.sing." and the like. "I h aven't been here long. I had met Neptune in his wrath. and so he suf fered me to go on and explore." I added. cap'n. W. The captain. but I met a bear onc e in Alaska that looked pleasanter. A lookou t from his masthead had spied the Spray the evening before. Her sails were trimmed li ke the sails of the nautilus. came in sight on the lee bow. I had penetra ted a mystery. the Java surrendered to the Spray.M. long. Then came the night. and at 2:30 P. 34 degrees 50'. She was the bark Java of Glasgow.S. One hundred and fifty miles a day for so small a vessel must be considered good sailing. while the Spray." "It lacks now three minutes of the half-hour." and "We'll Pay Darby Doyl f or his Boots. and very good wine it was. He also sent his card. The S. on the whole. Early in the m orning of the 15th the Spray was close aboard the stranger. the bear seemed pleased to meet me . I think it was "Babylon's a-Fallin'. July 10. in the l ight winds of this and the two previous days. eight days at sea. and when his mate. they jumped a deal higher. "H ow long has it been calm about here?" roared the captain of the Java. "Sail ho!" The sail was a barkantine. all hand s cried. the Spray was twelve hundred miles east of Cape S able. I spoke the stranger. from P eru for Queenstown for orders. with large eyes. I had sailed through a fog. as Spaniards go. twenty-three days from Philadelphia. The acute pain of solitude experienced at first never returned. haul down the flag!" In the best of humor. and. One day when I was humm ing a favorite chant. I went frequently on deck. Porpoises gamboling all about. but this grizzly old man! Well. in better humor than ever before. I think he was a good man. when I came near enough. as he gav e me the longitude and the time. . he crossed himself and made for his cabin." a porpoise jumped hi gher than the bowsprit. which proved to be L a Vaguisa of Vigo. Haul down the flag. she was heading east. after all. The wind was light. I had the advantage over heavy ships. I suppose my hail disturbed his siesta. It was the greatest run the Spray ever made before or since in so few days. Old turtles. but he found that I had not treated him with contempt. Olympia passed at 11:30 A. You should have seen the porpoises leap when I pitched my voice for the w aves and the sea and all that was in it. was just skipping along as nimbly as one could wish.

"when I was in America and couldn't speak a word of English. women. Ther e were no porpoises at all skipping along with the Olympia! Porpoises always pre fer sailing-ships. was the cause of the disaster to the line r Atlantic.M. and not I. He had sailed out o f New Bedford. how green the corn!" Only those who have seen the Azores from the deck of a vessel realize the beauty of the mid-ocean picture. Although the land was completely hidden by the white . and although it is a high island. I have no good reason to doubt. The haze in the meantime had disappeared. Boats loade d with people came from other islands to celebrate at Horta. exactly eighteen days from Cape Sable. and a young naval officer. came alongside before the Spray reached the breakwater. The youngster. or be cause he did not sink the Spray. m ailed thirteen days later. Flores is one hundred and seventy-four miles from Faya l. At 4:30 P. and I promised my good saint then that if ever a stranger came to my country I would try to make him happy. would have to pay the cost of raising the lighter. with scant privileges in return. that I might "learn more of the country. in broken English." The fel low was nearly the death of me. a good record. The people of the Azores are not a very rich communit y. in a smart boat.M. the capital." said he. who feared for the safety of my vessel. The burden of taxes is heavy. this gentleman brought along an interpreter. but the Spray was too small for the amount of uniform he wore. " because. she was moored without much damage to herself. the last thing in the world I wished to hear. My own letters poste d at Horta reached the United States six days behind my letter from Gibraltar.but I have the feeling still that the captain was just a little too precise in h is reckoning. and offered his services as pilot. and there was soon more of all kinds of it put on board than I knew what to do with.'" My friend and h ost found hardly a chance to edge in a word. glistening haze that shone in the sun like polished silver. The day after my arrival at Horta was the feast of a great saint. the air they b reathe being about the only thing that is not taxed. The captain knew too well where he was. but he was quite al . and children. I found it hard till I met some one who seemed to have time t o listen to my story. talking of ships and voyages. I felt quite sure that it was Flores Island. A packet passing ne ver so close with mails for Horta must deliver them first in Lisbon. and had before him. after fouling all the craft in port and sink ing a lighter. where there is plenty of sea -room." I understood. The mother-country does not even allow them a port of entry for a foreign mail service. however. It was the season for fruit when I arrived at the Azores. Islanders are always the kindest people in the world. and many more like her. ostensibly to be fumigated. Early on the morning of July 20 I saw Pico looming above the clouds on the st arboard bow. but whether for the reason that his government. On the day after the feast a kind-hearted native harnessed a team and drove me a day over the beautiful roads all about Fayal. That may be all well enough. and of the boats h e had steered. Lower lands burst forth as the sun burned away the morning fog. I cast anchor at Fayal. This wonderful pil ot expected a "gratification. boarded. so he said. At half-past four P. for "that Joe Wing they call 'John. As I approached nearer. or Jer usalem. I observed. cultivated fields a ppeared. T he American consul. Before we parted my host dined me w ith a cheer that would have gladdened the heart of a prince. But I forgive him. The captain was a young man. could have handled a man-of-war. I hope. Land ho! On the morning of July 19 a mystic dome like a mountain of silver st ood alone in the sea ahead. But over-confidence. I could never make out. However." Unfortunately. and island after island came into view. it remained many years undiscovered after t he principal group of the islands had been colonized. The deck of the Spray was crowded from morning till night with men. and I met none anywhere kinder than the good hearts of this place. it was abeam. but really for the tariff from the packet. "and oh. of the Azores. I believe.

and I must turn them in again somehow. went flying across a French school-ship to leeward. one of the weather lanyards was carried away and the other was stranded. with a heavy sky to the sou'west. "but not of Boston. with a customs officer on board. I found an opportunity to mend the lanyards broke n in the squall. I swayed up my sails. Why he so dreaded the "ovation" I could not make out." I said. caught up by the wind. "Do you know John Wilson of Bo ston?" he cried. In a word. one of his crew. and with a friendly hand helped me "set up the rigging. I gave . I had hardly set the mainsail. in the double reef. Later in the day she passed the Prince of Monaco's fine steam-yacht bound to Fayal. Michael's. Alas! by night-time I was doubled up with cramps. "to be near the spot. while we palavered jumped on board and rove off the new lanyards I had alrea dy prepared. sailing along under high land. the prince had slipped his cables to "escape a reception" which the padres of the island wished to give him. she thought. and tied away point by poi nt. I am told to say that "Antonio of Pico remembers him. I set sail from Horta early on July 24. the American consul-general. was increasing somewhat. Between cramps I got the m ainsail down. Antonio's heart went out to one John Wilson. after the rigging was mended. Since reaching the islands I had lived most lux uriously on fresh bread. and of this I partook with the plums. the Spray stretched across to leeward of the island of St. who served as interpreter. and these I ate without stint. It was more or less squally all day. Reefs had be en turned out. but did not. She could cook flying-fish." CHAPTER IV Squally weather in the Azores--High living--Delirious from cheese and plums--The pilot of the Pinta--At Gibraltar--Compliments exchanged with the British navy-A picnic on the Morocco shore. which. and I was glad enough to get reefs in my sails before I had gone a mile. I should have laid to." said Antonio. My tin basin. in the coming storm. vegetables. which she was up with early o n the morning of July 26. a sailorly chap. and he was ready to sail for Am erica by way of the two capes to meet his friend. It was the kindness of the islanders and their touching simplicity whi ch detained me. As i t was. double-reefed. However. anyhow. "I knew a John Wilson. who understood how matters we re. I should. Her brother Anton io. My story was then clear to all. hauled out the earings as best I could. but this night. on a previous voyage . However. The wind. have made all snug and gone down at once to my cabin. a quick helm brought her to the wind. the wind blowing hard." This incid ent gave the turn in my favor. were still too much in such heavy weather." he added. hinted that. as innocent as an angel. A damsel. No sooner had I lowered my sails when a four-oared boat shot ou t from some gully in the rocks. and fruits of all kinds. where. "I moved to this house from far off. "My wife and children all rest there. he would like to make the tr ip. but rounding close under a bluff. I have found this the way of the world.one in his house. I had some difficulty in making him comprehend the tru e case. and see what will happen! Passing the island of Pico. came alongside one day. which was already a smart breeze. where I pray every morning. who thought he had come upon a smuggler. If this reaches the right John Wilson. pointing to th e churchyard across the way. by way of identifying his friend. in strict prudence. but squalls came up with the sun. reefed though the y were. At Horta they did not know." I remained four days at Fayal. which I supposed was to be eaten." said he. The southwest wind at the time was li ght. and I saw to it that the shee ts were securely belayed. Let one be without a friend. There being sea-room. I am a careful man at sea. I had also a Pico white cheese that General Manning. wh en a squall of wind down the mountains struck the sloop with such violence that I thought her mast would go. and s aid she would embark on the Spray if I would land her at Lisbon. but her forte was dressing bacalhao. had given m e. Plums seem ed the most plentiful on the Spray. butter. and that was two days more than I had intended to stay." "He had on e daughter and one son.

senor captain. captain. The gale was moderating. The sloop had made ninety miles in the nig ht through a rough sea. but in my fevered brain I thought they were boats falling on deck. "You'll smash your boats!" I called out again and again. gleaming. held them as in a vise.High is the tempest roar! High the seabird screaming!High the Azore! I suppose I was now on the mend. "I have no mind for moralizing.her the double-reefed mainsail and whole jib instead. His rig was that of a foreign sailor. and the large red cap he wore was cockbilled over his left ear." said he. Columbus himself could not have held her more exactly on her course. vale. "Senor. grasping the spokes of the wheel. Give her sail. "but was never w orse than a contrabandista. and was going like a racehorse." Finishing what he had to say. if ther e was any more of it. to . from my swoon. as if he re ad my mind." I thought what a very devil he was to carry sail. While I gazed upon his threatening aspect I forgot the storm. "I have come to do you no harm. we must overtake her. in a dream. for I was peevish. which I always kept towing. I should like to be with you often on the voyag e. give her sail! Vale. had been swept of everything movable . I felt grateful to the old pilot. Quien sabe. How lon g I lay there I could not tell. She is strong!" I cried. "and I will guide your ship to-night. "I am th e pilot of the Pinta come to aid you. and set her on her course. I saw now at broad day that the Spray was still heading as I had left her. and did not turn out r eefs that day or the night following. To my astonishment. and would have been were it a respe ctable bird!" I begged he would tie a rope-yarn on the rest of the song. when my pains and calentura had gone. played on his face. "You did well last night to take my advi ce. Great seas were boarding the Spray. it may have been fr om leche de Capra and becoming capricious--" "Avast. returning. but you can't hurt the Spray. fierce. an d looking out of the companionway. I am one of Columbus's crew. as the seas crashed on the cabin over my head. "and if you would. as I tho ught. When I came to. and all was set off with shagg y black whiskers. I was still in agony. Again. You have a calentura. He would have been taken for a pirate in any part of the world . muy vale!" Biting off a large quid of blac k twist. he said: "You did wrong. and threw myself upon the cabin floor in great pain. of course. but still a smile. and without fenders to breast her off. to my amazement I saw a tall man at the helm." he continued. Then I went below. A meridian altitude and the distance on the patent log. "You 'll smash your boats. I was getting much better now. One m ay imagine my astonishment. that careless draymen were throwing from wagons on the pier to which I imagined the Spray was now moored. I suppose. to mix cheese with plums. and by noon the sun was shining. but was very weak. the faintest in the wor ld. for the love of adventure alone. "I have come to do you no harm. this time. now as white as a shark's tooth from seas washing over it." And a smile. doffin g his cap. I realized that the sloop was plunging into a heavy sea. there!" I cried." chuckled as he chanted a wild song: High are the waves. who. but I marveled some th at he had not taken in the jib. White chees e is never safe unless you know whence it comes. fell asleep. and wondered if he had come to cut my throat." he said. This he seemed to divine." said he. remarking again that I would have "only pains and calentura. Then who should visit me again but my old friend of the night be fore. although the wind fell light. he again doff ed his cap and disappeared as mysteriously as he came. Lie quiet. and complained: "I detest your jingle." he added. but I just p ut my wet clothes out in the sun when it was shining. I found. but you will be all right tomorrow. I have sailed free." I made shift to spread a mattress and lie on that instead of the hard floor. His rigid hand. my eyes all the while fastened on my strange guest. which seemed not unkind when he spoke . told me that she had made a true course throughout the twenty-four hours. that the deck. and lying down there mysel f. he exclaimed: "Yonder is the Pinta ahead. Your Azore should be at roost. for I became delirious.

Sometime in the afternoon I passed a barrel-buoy adrift. "Land lies there. and with the feeling that I had been in the presence of a friend and a seaman of vast experience. which had been close alongside at daylight. M. then. under close-reefed mainsail and bobbed jib. floating light on th e water. and my appetite was simply ravenous. I saw more turt les. August 1 the gale continued. I found no fault with the cook. The bill of fare that evening was turtle-steak. July 31 a gale sprang up suddenly from the north. I was in want of pot-rags. and I rigged a burton ready with which to hoist them in. which was that about Trafalgar. But the turtle-steak was good . High living to-day! In the afternoon the Spray came upon a large turtle asleep on the sea. and so rigging a pot of fire on deck by which to bake it. with heavy seas. July 28 was exceptionally fine. I saw fires on shore. I also did some washing to get the salt out of my clothes. After it all I was hungry. if he awoke at all. I threw overboard all the plums in the vessel. . But the crowning dish of all was a fish-hash. I awoke much refreshed. As for the jib. and it was the rule of the voyage that the coo k found no fault with me. a loaf soon became an accomplished fact. Then keeping away a point. I got no more turtle or fish of any s ort before reaching port. less than twenty-nine days from Cape Sable. and I shortened sail. I was in good health again. and as the day wore on I watched the birds all flying in one direction.M. by inspiration. I saved pieces of it . At the finish of this preliminary trip I found myself in excellent health. I gathered up my cl othes. On August 3 the gale broke. There was never a ship's crew so well agreed. for both of which I could afford sugar and cream. the jib was washed off the bowsprit and blown to rags and ribbons. and said. after all. So far as I know. and rigged with a signal-staff about six feet high. A sudden change in the weather coming on. The wind from the northwest was light and the air balmy. and it was no small matter to hoist the large sail again. for I was obliged to lower the mainsail whenever the halyards were used for such purposes. Bad weather having made itself felt in the galley. Dinner being over. and bent on a white shirt against nearing some coasting-packet with genteel folk on board. fried potatoes. and. Two Italian barks. with dessert of stewed pears and cream. let it go. At 3 P. which I finally accomplished by hooking the throat-halyar ds to one of his flippers. Through the night t he sloop was reaching. of the same day. I saw long aft er I had anchored. While I was dini ng I had a large onion over the double lamp stewing for a luncheon later in the day. The Spray continued on her course till w ell in with the land." Early the next morning. which by this time were dry. with heavy seas. stewed on ions. The Spray made only fifty-one miles on her co urse that day. August 4. passing up the African side of the strait. the Spray be at everything going across the Atlantic except the steamers. I overhauled my wardrobe. I had much difficulty i n landing him on deck. The Spray had sail ed them both hull down before she reached Tarifa. not overworked or cramped. and there was enough of it for two. for he was about as heavy as my boat. she passed through the Strait of Gibraltar. He awo ke with my harpoon through his neck. One great feature about ship's cooking is that one's appetite on the sea is always good--a fact that I realized when I cooked for the crew of fishermen in the before-mentioned boyhood days. so I made a fire and very cautiously stewed a dish of pears and set them carefully aside till I had made a pot of delicious coffee.the phantom Pinta. where she cast anchor at 3 P. though I was as thin as a reef-point. I discovered Spain. I bent the "jumb o" on a stay at the night-heads. and I saw many signs of land. a nd knew that the country was inhabited. tea and toast. It was painted red. but as well as ever in my life. I sat for ho urs reading the life of Columbus. I was minded to try my hand at a loaf of bread.

" "Aye. thinking of the great company the Sp ray would be in among battle-ships such as the Collingwood. If you want to get on well with a true Britisher yo u must first have a deuce of a row with him. Construction and repair. "Spray ahoy!" would hail the admiral . there! will you see to the Spray ? Say. in a stovepipe hat and a claw-ham mer coat!" "Then I can't come. you must have knocked the devil out of her coming over alone in twenty-nine days! But we'll make it smooth for you here!" Not even her Majesty's ship the Collingwood was better looked after than the Spray at Gibraltar. " I had already hinted at the limited amount of my wardrobe. and so I f ired away. a mong the native craft. at all approaching these of Gibraltar in co nception or execution. I had anchored at the old mole. "Spray ahoy!" "Hello!" "Commander Reynolds's compliments. An Englishman. came alongside." the doctor admitted at l ast. wi th other high officers of the garrison." was the salute I got from Admiral Bruc e. yes. an d for the use of the steam-launch which towed me into dock. that is what we mean. shot for shot. which were at that time stationed there. cockswain!" And that was the last I saw of the port doctor. sir! Shove off. How could one help lo ving so hospitable a place? Vegetables twice a week and milk every morning came from the palatial grounds of the admiralty. can you spare your sailmaker? The Spray wants a new jib. Admiral Bruce.M. at the time governor of Gibraltar. most royally. Again there wa s a hail. unbends when the strange r passes his gangway. and all the commanders of the battle-shi ps. and Cormor ant. as best I could. "Well. no doubt. Later in the day came the hail: "Spray ahoy! Mrs. where it was rough and uncomfortable. however . Of course I was gla d to shift. "Spray ahoy!" "Hello!" "To-morrow is your vegetable day.M. Will it be convenient to-day!" "Very!" I joyfully shouted. later. Carrington. and when he says "at home" he means it.All was well. when I called at the admiralty to thank him for his courtesy of the berth. This was around at the new mole. sir! " he blustered. I knew that well enough. and s o when the fierce old port doctor came to inspect there was a row. old man. You are invi ted on board H. aye. "You are expected. sir! " I rambled much about the old city. for military purposes. say. Free pratique. and that I could ne ver succeed as a dude. On the following day Sir F. even on his great battle-ship. But on the following morning a steam-launch. what repairs do you want? Ahoy the Hebe. sir.--with compliments from th e senior naval officer. "'Put it thar!' as the Americans say. Viewing the stupendous works. Bruce would like to come on board and shake hands with the Spray. Not later than 5:30 P. came on board and signed their names in the Spray's log-book. and we'll tow you out when you are ready to go." "Dash it! come in what you have on. and did so as soon as possible. There is no excavation in the world. Collingwood.M. but I had forgotten to bring a bill of health from Horta. much longer than the Spray. 'at home' at 4:30 P.S." "Aye. sir!" The Collingwood's cheer was good. sir. and a gunner piloted me through the galler ies of the rock as far as a stranger is permitted to go. "We ought to put you in the fort. But. "but never mind. "your crew are healthy enough. it is all right if it suits. That one should like Gibraltar would go without saying. That.--or as much of her as could get alongside. Balfleur. . it became hard to realize t hat one was within the Gibraltar of his little old Morse geography. and had I worn a s ilk hat as high as the moon I could not have had a better time or been made more at home. was the very thing needed. but who knows the diseases of your last port?"--a reasonable enough remark. and on board all of which I was en tertained. "About the berth. saying there was a berth for the Spray at the arsenal. aye.

it is said. the governor. honored the Spray with a visit on Sunday. The day was perfect--too fine. to haul offshore. and I saw by their movements that they wer e now preparing to strike a blow.--by whi ch. I must reef. after al l. but the distance growing less a nd less between us. A tug belonging to her Majesty towed the sloop into the steady breeze clear of the mount. and all about. which was once the conve nt of the Mercenaries. and finally following in the wake of the Spray. throug h the Suez Canal. and handled his ship with the skill of an older sailor. and the commanders of the war-ships at the station. which I finally adopted. Sublieutenant Boucher. evidently in the midst of pirates and thieves! I changed my course. my course to Gibraltar had been taken with a view to proceed up the Mediterranean Sea. Impulsiv . and away went the main-boom. both vessels sailing very fast. August 25. Sprague. that lent me vital strength to pass the coming long days at sea. No one spoke above his natural voice. she would broach now and then. Three minutes later the same wave overtook the Spray and shook her in every timber. Monday. which carried her once more to the Atlantic. and east about. In this interesting edifice are pr eserved relics of the fourteen sieges which Gibraltar has seen. even if I had to grapple with him for my life. the Spray sailed from Gibraltar. But here I was. where her sails caught a volant wind. with too much sail on. At each place. carried our party to th e Morocco shore and back. The vast amount of business going forward caused no more excitement than the quiet sailing of a well-appoin ted ship in a smooth sea. well repaid for whatever deviation she had made from a direct course to reach the place. but I had hardly accomplished this when I perceived a felucca making out of the nearest port. the venerable United States c onsul at Gibraltar. CHAPTER V Sailing from Gibraltar with the assistance of her Majesty's tug--The Spray's cou rse changed from the Suez Canal to Cape Horn--Chased by a Moorish pirate--A comp arison with Columbus--The Canary Islands-The Cape Verde Islands--Sea life--Arriv al at Pernambuco--A bill against the Brazilian government--Preparing for the sto rmy weather of the cape. which was once the Franciscan convent. I felt the friendly grasp o f a manly hand. well clear of the land. which hereabouts is the home of pirates. in fact. 91 trembled like an aspen-leaf as s he raced through the sea at top speed. I felt them to b e the sons of generations of pirates. save a boatswain 's mate now and then. whe re it rose rapidly to a furious gale. At the same moment the sheetstrop parted. but the felucca had in the meantime so shortened the dista nce between us that I now saw the tuft of hair on the heads of the crew. down the Red Sea. August 24. She was carry ing too much sail for safety. and cheerfulness at Gibralta r were only a second wonder in the great stronghold. she was even more than at her bes t. and a royal aff air it was. and so no one landed at Morocco. broken short at the rigging. Mohammed will pull the villains up into heaven. apparently a mere lad. On the next day I supped with the admiral at his residence. By officers of vast experience in navigating these seas . I could not afford to make light of the advice. was ch anged in an instant to a look of fear and rage. I must confess that the perfect discipline. I was influenced to make the change. The exultation on their faces. in going down this coast. instead of a western route. Longshore pirates on both coasts being nu merous. for comfort on shore. pirate o r no pirate. order. I was not long in reefing the mainsail and sweating it up--probably not more than fifteen minutes. Their craft. On the following day I lunched with General Carrington. the palace. the officers of t he garrison. Now. was in command.--and they were c oming on like the wind. broached to on the crest of a great wave. going twenty-two knots. at Line Wall House. My plan was. Torpedo-boat No. I must reef or be dismasted and lose all. From what I could clearly make out now. but. however. This one great sea changed the asp ect of affairs suddenly as the flash of a gun. in spite of all I could do.Before sailing I was invited on a picnic with the governor. the feluc ca did the same. Horatio J. The Hon. and was much pleased to find that our British cousins had been so kind to her. 91. The Spray was doing nobly. No.

and the sea. A change in the weather came next day: storm-clouds stre tched their arms across the sky. if I had not before. or his country either. but not a stitch of it was broken. and that when I saw him it would be better for me to b e looking at him along the barrel of a gun. Columbus. nor so sure of success in what he had undertaken . that the voyage ahead w ould call for exertions ardent and lasting. sailing these seas more than four hundred years before. for the sea in a moment was conf usion itself. for which I was on the lookout. I fully realized now. for a few days following my escape from the pirates. This gave me the wind three points on the starboard quarter and a stea dy pull in the headsails. then hauled the sloop's he ad two points offshore to allow for the set of current and heavy rollers toward the land. I took him below for my supper. September 1. All distracting uneasiness and excitement being now over. some dozen or more of them. though agitated into long rollers. land-clouds rising ahead told of the Canar y Islands not far away. I hoisted away the jib. and while sitting in my cabin I could hardly realiz e that any sea was running at all. so easy was the long. My attention was turned to reefing sai ls. to break the ship's rudder while running before probably just su ch a gale as the Spray had passed through. when I made shift to dress my fish and prepare a dish of tea.. The piece was at my shoulder when I peered into the mist. the weather be . but found myself too tired to cook. but a moment though it was. and instantly downed the jib. How I got the boom in before th e sail was torn I hardly know. by foul pla y or otherwise. and the helm put hard down. might come a fierce harmattan. but there was no pirate within a mile. stepped quickl y to the cabin and snatched down my loaded rifle and cartridges at hand. I got the mainsai l down and secured inboard. in the Santa Maria. with helm lashed. His first troubles at sea had already begun. I fi shed the boom and furled the sail snug for the night. much to my satisfaction. and no time was to be lost over it. which I now set. or from the south might come the fierce hurricane. At 2 P. After three days of squalls and shifting winds I threw myself down to rest an d sleep. But I was happy. Every poin t of the compass threatened a wild storm. I was once more alone with myself in the realization that I was on the mighty se a and in the hands of the elements. struggling to recover their rigging from t he sea. The wind. While shivering there. away in the east through th e clear atmosphere of morning. or even to eat a thing already prepared. something that was unknown on the Spray. Too fatigued to sleep. I perceived his thiev ing crew. the sloop came in the wind wi th a bound. On August 27 nothing could be seen o f the Moor. an d a flying-fish had already fallen on deck. His crew had managed. Th e head-sail being off. and was becoming more and m ore interested in the voyage. and. and I was glad to head the sloop three points or more away from he r true course that she might ride safely over the waves. from the east. except two peaks. was not uncom fortably rough or dangerous. I do no t remember to have been more tired before or since in all my life than I was at the finish of that day. and there was dissension on the Santa Maria. in the early morning. blew a steady but moderate gale.ely I sprang to the jib-halyards and down-haul. Allah blacken their faces! I sailed comfortably on under the jib and forestaysail. broken boom and all. By the time I had things in this order it was dark. either. Soon after the sun rose even these were obscured by haze. for I m ade mental calculations that the pirate would by this time have recovered his co urse and be close aboard. the sloop sailed steadily on her course. without looking round. to all appearances. was not so happy as I.M. I was now scudding her for the channel between Africa and the island of Fuerteventura. the easternmost of the Canary Islands. The mainsail b eing secured. I rolled about with the motion of the vessel till near midnight. while. swinging motion of the sloop over the waves. The wave and squall that carried away my boom dismasted the felucca outright.

where news is ne ws. and afforded me a sumptuous breakfast and dinner. and as for a salute of guns. or in wha tever I found to do about the rigging and the sails to keep them all in order. a stale one! And the poor cattle. The landfall was wonderfully true. and the se a surged along with the sloop. which was the precursor of another gale of wind that soo n came on. and making bad weather of it. My ship. The air remained thic k with flying dust all the afternoon. indeed. still fresh. as the bill of fare consisted mostly of flying-fish. but got the worst of it for passing under her lee. and from the way she yawed one might have said th at a wild steer was at the helm. I threw out no flag to this one. I employed the time in reading and writing.coming suddenly fine. There are no poe try-enshrined freighters on the sea now. On September 10 the Spray passed the island of St. courtesying to the waves. and afforded the Spray once more a clear sky. T he cooking was always done quickly. running now in the full swing of the trades. steady pressure. but. and I saw my vessel moving across the chart. and was a small matter. It howled dismally whil e it lasted. and though it was not the season of the harmattan. a bullock-droger. bringing with it dust from the African shore. and a fourth one down the fore-scuttle as close as possible to the frying-pan. but I reefed her sails snug. This feeling never left me. Antonio." and on parting fired guns. northeast. blew from the north-northeast. The Spray had now settled down to the tradewinds and to the business of her v oyage. It was the be st haul yet. like an apparition. When I slept I dreamed that I was alone. I seemed always to know th e position of the sloop. s tartled beyond my power to tell. The wind. These rolling waves thrilled me as they tossed my ship. Passing close under lee. steering northeast. On the morning of September 6 I found three flying-fish on deck. I signaled her. She was plunging into the head sea and rolling in a most astonishing manner. One night while I sat in the cabin under this spell. was very squally. She was. which beca me a picture before me. This was grand saili ng. the northwesternm ost of the Cape Verdes. the wind. but got no answer. and steered broad from the highland of blustering St. passing quickly under her keel. Her mast no w bent under a strong. sleeping or waking. I found myself once more sailing a lonely se a and in a solitude supreme all around. the profound stillness a ll about was broken by human voices alongside! I sprang instantly to the deck. they cannot afford the powder. Fuerteventura is twenty-seven hundred feet high. from th e river Plate hove in sight. About noon a steamship. how they bello wed! The time was when ships passing one another at sea backed their topsails an d had a "gam. the island stood in view. and her bellying sail swept the sea as s he rolled scuppers under. already abeam to starboard. rolling as badly as her pr edecessor. wa . By daylight. Then leaving the Cape Verde Islands out of sight astern. but the wind. swept it back to land. The wind freshened in the night. but those good old days have gone. Peo ple have hardly time nowadays to speak even on the broad ocean. September 3. close aboard. and in fine weather is visible many leagues away. conside ring that no observations for longitude had been made. potatoes. veering northwest at night. when a calm ensued. hot biscuits and butter. it is a prosy life when we have no time to bid one another good morning. as t he sloop drew by the island. September 4. Later in the day another droger hove in sight. left me days to myself for rest and recuperation. and not more than seven miles off. coffee and c ream--dishes readily prepared. the sea in the c ourse of an hour was discolored with a reddish-brown dust. she was twenty-five miles clear of all the islan ds. Antonio. and the Spray had a fine run through the cha nnel.

a large four-masted ship passed some dist ance to windward. I had become accustomed to seeing the dolphi n. and which was mistaken for a bright fis h. y et it was good even to see them. having been wounded. I shot them through the head. I could see by the ripples that a counter-cu rrent had set in. the rain poured down in torrents day and night. and with mighty exertion "bunching" them together in a whirlpool set in motion by their flukes. she sailed on. Neither this ship nor the one seen yesterday was within signal distance. and when the small fry were all whirled nicely together. whales swimming in a circle around a school of he rrings. I didn't say anything! On September 23 the fine schooner Nantasket of Boston. Their precarious life seemed to concern the yellowtails very little. for t he river Plate. heading north. which I knew by its scars. which was less provided with that sort of food. One day. and missed it whenever it took occasional excursio ns away from the sloop. and m ore than once they had narrow escapes. thinking of ships. Making this still more trying to one's nerve and patience. and the forc e of the trade-winds was lessening. Fishes will always fo llow a foul ship. I have seen. and I passed hours watching them. and while turning. struggling in turn for mastery. A barnacle-grown log adrift has the same attraction for deep-s ea fishes. heading north. some of the species I saw huddle together as though they knew they were created for the larger fishes. would be led awa y from the others. this was ominous of doldrums. except when in danger and when foraging about the sea. where each wind. the sea was tossed into confused cross-lumps and fretted by eddyi ng currents. As if something more were needed to complete a sailor's discomfort in this state. to battle with squalls and to be harassed by fitfu l calms. after it had been off some hours. The sailors on board of her were hauling on rope s to brace the yards. but I heard some one on board say that he saw lights on the sloop. without doubt. Being much fouled on th e bottom by shell-fish. it could not dart throu gh the sea to prey on other fishes. for. on the other hand. then after a while they would all return and rendezvous under one side or the other of the sloop. In the heart of the counter-stream the rate was more than that setting eastward. it returned i n company with three yellowtails. I sat long on the starlit deck that night. each in a different d irection. if at al l. The Spray struggl ed and tossed for ten days. expends its forc e whirling about in all directions. pursuing one. she drew along with her fishes which had been following the Spray. Thei r lives were often threatened by hungry sharks that came round the vessel. This little s chool kept together. and just through the doldrums. obscuring the sun. and her captain passing a few words. which just cleared the sloop's mast as she swept by. in the peculiar way that sharks have when about to devour their prey. The sloop was now rapidly drawing toward the region of doldrums. On the following day. . On the 16th the Spra y entered this gloomy region. came up with the Sp ray. September 14 a lofty three-masted ship. from Bear River. On the following day heavy rain-clouds rose in the south. One of this little school of deserters was a dolphin that had followe d the Spray about a thousand miles. a sort of cousin to the dolphin. and had been content to eat scraps of food t hrown overboard from my table. All living beings. so that the wolf of the sea. the shark. for this is the state of the elements between the northeast and the sou theast trades. was seen from the mast head. and that he made her out to be a fisherman. making only three hundred miles on her course in all that time. lumber-laden. Their mode of escape interested me greatl y. which I towed astern of the sloop. and watching the constellatio ns on their voyage. are afraid of death. This I estimated to be about sixteen miles a day. September 13. and wished to give the least possible trouble to their captors. They would dart away.s a white bark under full sail. Nevertheless. Twice their pursuers were diverted by a tin pan. No on e hailed from the white-winged flier.

the Spray crossed the equator in longitude 29 degrees 30' W. longitude 26 degrees 30' W. where on October 5.. The southeast trade-winds. The Spray's next companion of the voyage was a swordfish. I could hardly perceive the capture of a single sardine. I had made many voyages to this a nd other ports in Brazil. for to me it meant a great deal. Her people. The Destroyer w as in many ways the better ship of the two. and was eager for the more perilous experience of roundin g the Horn. With her sank my hope of recovering wages due me. having already cr ossed the Atlantic twice and being now half-way from Boston to the Horn. without further incident. till I made a stir for my harpoon. I shoul d find myself still among friends. the doctor. that I might. in the latitude of 5 degrees N. that swam alongside . but the Brazilians in their curious war sank her themselves at Bahia. feeding from the edge of the mass. In the same expedition went the Nictheroy. The doctor dined me oft en on good Brazilian fare. The Destroyer. The approach to his mansion by the waterside was guarded by his armad a. Did I tire of the voyage in all that time? Not a bit of it! I was never in bette r trim in all my life. the last of which he obtained from the Destroyer. still. It was interesting to note how rapidly the small fry disappeared. I could but try to recover. came to pay me a visit and to carry me up the waterway of the lagoon to his country residence. the American ship Alert by lightning. as he said. During these visits to Brazil I had made the acquaintance of Dr. But now within two years the whirligig of time had brought the Mello party into power. a few years before. and there was much thunder and lightning. the ship purchased by the United S tates government during the Spanish war and renamed the Buffalo. There was not the slightest chance of escape for the sardine s. was heavily c It was hereab was destroyed on the same d On September 25. landed me on familiar shores. A t noon she was two miles south of the line. September 30. "salle gordo" for the voyag . a Norwegian pram. Perera. the so-called "re bels" felt under less obligation to me than I could have wished. in about 4 degrees N. who is a very enthusiastic yachtsman. and all well on board.one or the other of the leviathans. where I then met them. met. carried a submarine cannon of enormous len gth. where we met again about two mon ths later. gave her sails now a stiff full sending her han dsomely over the sea toward the coast of Brazil. take in a boat-load or so at a single mouthful. but." and soon after the Spray was safely moore d in Upper Topsail Reach. in bringing m e to Pernambuco. while the cavally circled round and round. out I remembered that. and a Cape Ann dory. a fleet of boats including a Chinese sampan. . and was bound for Rio. The great ship was out forty-eight days from Norfolk. My determination to sail westward from Gibral tar not only enabled me to escape the pirates of the Red Sea. a nd although it was the legal government which had employed me. casting anchor in Pernambuco harbor about noon: forty days from Gibraltar. It was not at all strange in a life common to sailors that. In 1893 I was employed as master to take the famous Er icsson ship Destroyer from New York to Brazil to go against the rebel Mello and his party. The Spray was now thirty days from Gibraltar. were rescued ay and brought to Pernambuco. lunging through the center with open jaws. by wonderful good fortune. when it hauled its black flag down and disappeared. rath er light. Along the equatorial limit of the southeast trade winds the air harged with electricity. Virginia. at half-past eleve n in the morning. owne r and editor of "El Commercio Jornal. showing its tall fin out of the water. she made the land. and though it was repeated before my eyes over and over.. so dexterously was it done. Off the Cape of Good Hope I saw schools of sardines or other small fish being treated in this way by great numbe rs of cavally-fish. by the way. I spoke the ship North Star of London. just north of Olinda Point.

" I knew well enough where she was at that moment. it was more than likely that she rested on the bottom there. they fel l astern of her by night. She never dragged Jones's anchor once on the voyage . to inquire concerning the matter of wages due me from the beloved Destroyer. with a number of old shipmasters on board. and if you ca re to accept her we will send an officer to show you where she is. Lungrin. Fruits and vegetables and all other provisions necessary for the voyage havin g been taken in. who h ad acted as my interpreter at Rio. "Oh. Instead of all this. which took about four feet off t he inboard end. you may have the ship. and about noon cast anchor near Villagan on. he offered to ship it without in surance. As I had decided to give the Spray a yawl rig for the tempestuous waters of Patagonia. CHAPTER VI Departure from Rio de Janeiro--The Spray ashore on the sands of Uruguay--A narro w escape from shipwreck--The boy who found a sloop--The Spray floated but somewh at damaged--Courtesies from the British consul at Maldonado--A warm greeting at Montevideo--An excursion to Buenos Aires--Shortening the mast and bowsprit.1895. I arrived at Rio de Janeiro November 5. perhaps. I here placed on the stern a semic ircular brace to support a jigger mast. Mr. by removing the broken piece. These old captains inspected the Spray's rigging. so far as we are concerned. I also refitted the jaws. Here I encountered one of the unforgiving Mello faction in the person of the collector of customs. to help me out of the trifling difficulty. and first of all ran int o a gale of wind. notwithstandin g that she sailed with a yacht license and should have been exempt from port cha rges. yes. but he found that even on the best I fattened slowly. on the 23d of October I unmoored and made ready for sea. which tore up things generally along the coast. Making abo ut one hundred miles a day along the coast. taking all the risk himself. but when towed off Cap e Horn helped break combing seas astern that threatened to board her. I observed that while some of the small vessels I fell in with were able to outsail the Spray by day. to the other . On the following day I bestirred myself to meet the highest lord of the admiralty and the ministers. Captain Jones. and each one contributed something to her outfit. On November 28 the Spray sailed from Rio de Janeiro. Coasting along on this part of the voyage. and one of the steamers g ave her a cable to match it. The top of her smoke-stack being awash in B ahia. It was well for her. the Spray sailed. which would have put me in funds. doing consider able damage to shipping. This was perhaps paying me a greater compl iment than I deserved. " said the bland collector. to await the official port visit. I thanked the kind officer. having had abundant good cheer. I thought--that it was I who brought the Destroyer to Brazil. The high official I met said: "Captain. that she was clear of the land. who charged the Spray tonnage dues when she cleared. a merchant. another old merchant friend came to my assistance. To the Spray day and night were the same. and the cable not only stood the strain on a lee shore. and when the insurance companies refused to take the risk on cargo sh ipped on a vessel manned by a crew of only one. Our consul reminded the collector of this and of the fact--without much di plomacy. The reason why I did not accept the business was that in so doing I found that I should vitiate my yacht license and run into more expens e for harbor dues around the world than the freight would amount to. a fine day even as days go in Brazil. advancing the cash direct. without any event worth mentioning. On October 24.e. sailed about the harbor of Rio the day before she put to sea. but declined his offer. The Spray. "we remember it very well. which had been broken when off the coast of Morocco." for it was now in a smal l way his turn. gave her an anchor. offered t o freight the Spray with a cargo of gunpowder for Bahia. While at Pernambuco I shortened the boom.

" Whatever the danger may have been. clinging to her gunwale. and I believe I chuckled above my sorrows when I found that in all the haphazard my judgment or my good genius had faithfully stood by me. so that no one of the prophets of evil I had left behind me could say. The anchor had been dropped at the right distance from the vessel. for the tide was falling and she had al ready sewed a foot. There was not a mom ent to spare. patter of a horse's feet approaching along the hard beach. I grasped her gunwale and held on as she turned bo ttom up. still carried a swell which broke with some force on the shore. and ran out a kedge-anchor and warp. The f alse appearance of the sand-hills under a bright moon had deceived me. Then I cut the cable and made two loads of it instead of one. The position of my vessel. maki ng it necessary to hug the shore." when I was seized by a determination to try yet once more. with f orty fathoms bent and already buoyed. while my body was still in the water. Three times I had been under water. and I lam ented now that I had trusted to appearances at all.. the frail dory. The anchor. at d aybreak on the morning of December 11 the Spray ran hard and fast on the beach. somewhat the worse for wear and pretty full of salt water. I sprang from the oars to my feet. but it was too late to kedge the sloop off. "Now I lay me. Then I tried to right her. for she rolled clean over. when the anchor and cable were in it. and not entirely secure in my p roperty. and left me as befo re. H ere I confess a weakness: I hugged the shore entirely too close. "I told you so. I finally succeeded by the utmos t care in keeping her upright while I hauled myself into her and with one of the oars. I was f eeling at ease in my primitive method of navigation. gave me anxiety. I found that although the wind was blowing moderately tow ard the land. To get her afloat again was all I thought of or cared for. with her tin clock. which was no easy matter." the capt ain said. was swamped at once in the surf. "as near as I can make it. for my only life-boat. To heave all taut now and wait for the coming tide was all I could do. but with too much eagerness. On Decem ber 5 a barkantine hove in sight. paddled to the shore. for I suddenly remembered that I could not swim. the current was carrying me to sea. Then I went about "laying out" the larger anchor. and lifting the anchor above my head. but it startled me not a li ttle to find my position by account verified by the ship's chronometer. I saw mounted on a nag probably the most astonished boy on the . which I had recovered. Lookin g up cautiously. threw it clear just as she was turning over. After righting the dory for the fourth time. with which the Spray became rather familiar. for the sun was already up. in trying to right the dory. the load being too great for her. and pouring a generous warmth over the land. and that something would have to be done. On one of the very fine days experienced after leaving Rio. as I soon found out. and I saw clearly that if I failed now all might be lost. and for several days the two vessels sailed al ong the coast together. I had already done enough work to tire a stouter man. I was on the wild coast of a foreign country. To bring the end back to the sloop was a smaller matter still. The Spray. The cable reached from the anchor in deep water to the sloop's windlass by just enough to secure a turn and no more.s clearly there was a difference. I managed to launch my small dory from the deck. which I had taken the precaution to buoy before I put it into the boat . and was only too glad t o throw myself on the sand above the tide and rest. and I was just saying. I can truly say that the moment was the most serene of my life. This was annoying. Giving a mome nt to cool reflection. In a word. While my state could have been wors e. now high and dry. though moderately s mooth. I had not been long on the shore when I heard the patter. Right here a current was experienced setting north. but my dory was leaking fast. but I soon found that the sloop was in no great danger. which ceased as it came abreast of the sand-ridge where I lay sheltered from the wind. I had li ttle difficulty in carrying the second part of my cable out and securing it to t he first. the steamship South Wales spoke the Spray and unsolicited gave the longitude by chronometer as 48 degrees W. The sea. much or little. and by the time I had rowed far enough to drop the anchor she was full to the gunwale and sinking. I now took and succeeded in getting throug h the surf. had exactly the same reckoning.

astern of his wild cayuse. and was starting off for the settlement a mile or so away for the reinforcement when I discovered myself to him. as I spoke. as in many other places that I visited. "my ship is from the moon. however. had I not bee n on the alert. but o f course she was too heavy for one horse to move. it has taken her a month to come. there it was all high and dry an d painted white. "Your questions are easily answered. after all. Then he asked what I was doi ng here ashore so early in the morning. who was of great assistance to me in many ways. that if he would look after the people of his own village. his daughte r. might have cost me dearly. also came. it was different. with the help of the German and one soldier and one Italian.--he wanted to know. and making all the ado that wo uld become the wreck of a steamer with a thousand emigrants aboard. to the nondescript "merch ant" who had already stolen my revolver and several small articles from my cabin . and received other damage. and of course the natives there speak Spanish. the Aquidneck. and showed that he was greatly interested . however. On the following day I anchored at Maldonado. A coast-guard from Fort Teresa. strawberries. and that even in Uruguay a ship's biscuit will cheer the heart of a boy and ma ke him your bosom friend. muchacho. and returned quickly with bu tter. however. With the boy came o thers. and finding no owner. The same mes senger brought word from the port captain that he would despatch a steam-tug to tow the Spray to Montevideo. "for am I not the first to see it on the beach?" Sure enough. she lost her shoe and part of her false keel. To reconcile my early visitor. Then bursting into a volley of que stions. This was a g ood landfall. pointing. and another young lady came on board." I had alre ady floated the sloop and was sailing for port with the boom off before a fair w ind. "to protect your property from the natives of the plains. The exact spot where I was stranded was at the Castillo Chicos.whole coast. anyhow. . a few miles away. and eyed me keenly from head to foot. milk." he thought. The British consul. The adventure cost the Spray no small amount of pounding on the hard sand. He re. and that I wished to trade them for butter and milk. He grunted a reply. from neighboring ranches. This. to make a long story short. He trotted his horse around it. was not necessary. over the fields of Uruguay. at which he s eemed displeased and disappointed." I replied. bringing with them a basket of fresh eg gs. and how many days she had been coming. but. The chap was not a native Uruguayan." he said. and concealed behind a dune in a bunch of tall grass. and eggs. hitched t he nag to the sloop's bobstay and hauled as though he would take her home. I took occasion to tell him. "Buenos dias. The officer was as good as his word. for while I spoke this child of the c ampo coiled his lariat ready to throw. command ing the coastguards to render the Spray every assistance. he was apparently thinking of towing me home by the neck. however. He had found a sloop! "It must be mine. On hearing this a broad grin lighted up his face. the natives themselves were not the ones discreditable to the country. and better cheer than I had found at Maldonado once upon a time wh en I entered the port with a stricken crew in my bark. I was. this he hauled some distance. and she is here for a cargo of boys. old and young. to bring more horses and dr ag his bigger prize away. and instead of being himself carried to t he moon. about seven m iles south of the dividing-line of Uruguay and Brazil. was readily mended afterward in dock. in a land of plenty. called "Angel of Milan. which. for a guard was already on the alert. which by a bold front I had recovered. bottles of milk. I would tak e care of those from the plains. among them a German settler.--more than six Yankees could ask. I dare say. Early in the day a despatch came from the port captain of Montevideo. The lad almost flew home. first. I told him that I had on my ship biscuits." But the intimation of this enterprise. a powerful tug arrived on the following day. where my sh ip was from. With my skiff. He had made up his mind. and a great loaf of sweet bread." I said.

Captain Howard of Cape Cod and of River Plate fame. I gathered a mess of oysters and mussels here. Wh ile he swore roundly in all the moods and tenses of the Spanish language. with laudable pride. painting it till I hardly knew it from a butter fly. and with mussels for bait. the pipe reached straight up through the top of the forecast le. I asked the young pirate why he had brought them to me. though small in size . now and then congratulating his hopeful nephew on his accomplishm ent. so mehow. however. The Spray was now ready for sea. An old friend of mine.. "I don't know. for a short boy. as may happen. and fur-seals in t heir season haul out on the island abreast the bay to breed. Carpenters mended the keel an d also the life-boat (the dory). I was glad to have a sailor of Howard's experience on board to witness her performance of sail ing with no living being at the helm. It was always hungry. which one of the yard apprent ices. his un cle fished on. The fisherman's nephew. The Spray had barely come to anchor at Montevideo when the agents of the Roya l Mail Steamship Company. that any demonstration at this point seemed. took the trip in h er to Buenos Aires. Howard sat near the binnacle and watched t he compass while the sloop held her course so steadily that one would have decla red that the card was nailed fast. Currents on this co ast are greatly affected by the prevailing winds. Christmas of 1895 found the Spray refitted even to a wonderful makeshift stov e which was contrived from a large iron drum of some sort punched full of holes to give it a draft. even for g reen wood. and more besides. Said he. or lowered by a northeaster. Instead of proceeding at once on her voyage. and shortly returned with a bunch of flowers. sailing December 29. and a tidal wave higher than t hat ordinarily produced by the moon is sent up the whole shore of Uruguay before a southwest gale. which. and with all smiles handed them t o me with the innocence of an angel. but there was so much of it yet ahead . deserves mention as the tallest blasphemer. landing several good-sized ones. Other shellfish of good flavor were also plentiful. Now. The voyage so far alone may have seemed to the Uru guayans a feat worthy of some recognition. that I met on the voyage. seas over. thought I. I only wished to do so. and potent. Humphreys & Co. with a gale of wind and a current so much in her favor that she outdid herself. and in cold. My old friend had owned and sailed a pilot-sloop on the river for m any years. a lad about seven years old. He called his old uncle all the vile names under the sun for not helping him across the gully. and he cried. sent word that they would doc k and repair her free of expense and give me twenty pounds sterling. some years before. The calkers at Montevideo paid very carefu l attention to the work of making the sloop tight. One of these wave s having just receded before the northeast wind which brought the Spray in left the tide now at low ebb. wet days off the coast of Tierra del Fuego it stood me i n good stead. I remembered having seen the same flower on the banks of the river farther up. " . Messrs. fished from a point of detached rocks for bream. and of such an arduous nature. Its one door swung on copper hinges. Not a quarter of a point did she deviate from her course. like boasting prematurely. where she arrived early on the following day. she made an excursion up the river. but this feat took the wind out of his sails at last. with oyster-rocks laid bare for some distance along the shore. the Spray sailed for Montevideo. they did to the letter. & O. while a native with hook and li ne. steamer.In the waters of Maldonado Bay a variety of fishes abound." Whatever the influence was that put so amiable a wish in this wild pampa boy. where she arrived on the foll owing day and was greeted by steam-whistles till I felt embarrassed and wished t hat I had arrived unobserved. At the end of his rich vocabulary the urchin sauntered off into the fields. this was not a stove by mere courtesy. Shortly after. polished till the whole thing blushed like the brass binnacle of a P. it must be far-reaching.

came down to the docks as soon as the Spray was berthed. and in reply to it was assured of a warm welcome to the warmest heart. with a prancing team. ranged on end. Mulhall kindly drove me to see many improvements about the city. and conditions of his customers. not entir ely blameless of the germs of disease. and I felt quite sure that his friendship was sincere. we helped ourselves and swapped yarns over it while the Spray made her own wa y through the darkness on the river. sent me word to call on him for anything I might want while in port. Besides cheap whisky and many othe r liquors. o f all sizes and in great numbers." Mr. and the yachting f raternity of the city welcomed her with a good will. In all the years away from his native home Howard had not forgotten the art o f making fish chowders. for as a cask was emptied a coffin might be filled. Enterprising man that he was. chocking the pot securely between two boxes on the cabin floor. The place where I had o nce landed from packets. Mr. In town I found things not so greatly changed as about the docks. wants. he had made a fortune by it. and to prove this he brought along some fine rockfish an d prepared a mess fit for kings. From Montevideo I had forwarded a letter from Sir Edward Hairby to the owner of the "Standard. a moderate supply of brown sugar. the march of civilization had crushed him--memory only clung to his name. while on the ot her side. outside of Ireland. Farther along in the city. And it was New Year's day. London bankers could tell yo u that. with his compl iments." which he manufactured from damaged Malaga raisins.--we are none of us superstitious. I think. The unique arrangement seemed in order." and all at two cents a glass. were the coffins in the same order. in a cart.I'll be stranded on Chico Bank if ever I saw the like of it!" Perhaps he had nev er given his sloop a chance to show what she could do. " Mr. Captain Howard took all this into account. but the lemon "went on forever. was now built up with magnificent docks. Mulhall. after assigning the Spray a safe berth. The port captain. her dockage and tonnage dues were all free. Mulhall. The course of the Spray had been followed in the columns of the "Standard. however. I had not been in Buenos Aires for a number of years. so that it could not roll ove r. above all other points. Howard told me stories about the Fuegian ca nnibals as she reeled along. Vas t fortunes had been spent in remodeling the harbor. and about six lem ons that floated on the sweetened water. and would have m e go to his house at once. This man surely catered to all the tastes . I fain would have looked him up. and that I looked for him at the helm in a gale such as this. where a room was waiting. I do not charge Howard with superstitio n. survived the good man who wrote on the si de of his store. But we looked in vain for the man who once sold whisky and coffins in Buenos Aires. and we w ent in search of some of the old landmarks. His stock in trade was a wash-tu b and a neighboring hydrant. I remember the t iers of whisky-barrels. When the savory chowder was done. The man who sold "lemonade" on the p laza when first I visited this wonderful city I found selling lemonade still at two cents a glass. W ithin the scope of his enterprise was also the sale of mineral waters. 1896. he sold "cider. The water from time to time was renewed from the friendly pump.--but when I spoke about his returning to Mo ntevideo on the Spray he shook his head and took a steam-packet instead. on one side of the store. The sloop was well cared for at Buenos Aires. and divided by a thin partition. and I soon felt myself more at home. with other difficult and unusual conditions. and I told him about the pilot of the Pinta steerin g my vessel through the storm off the coast of the Azores. is that she sailed in shoal water and in a s trong current. where thoughtful men might read and learn: "This wicked world w ill be destroyed by a comet! The owner of this store is therefore bound to sell . The point I make for the Spray here.

I resolved then that I would anchor no more north of the Strait of Mage llan. and the English Bank on the other. On the 28th of January the Spray was clear of Point Indio. At the last anch orage on the monotonous and muddy river. till I forgot the blessings of our milder North. as before. for these dangers extend many miles from the land. shaping my cour se to clear Point Indio on the one hand. Standing in that night to the place where p ilot Howard joined me for the up-river sail. I gave way to my f eelings. also the Gulf of St. But where the sloop avoided one danger she encountered another. and with reefed sails worked her down the river against a head wind. the Spray. a tr emendous wave. I reduced the length of the bowsprit by about five feet. the dread of big craft or little along this coast. being refitted and well provisioned in every way. but I had time while in my hazardous position for resolutions for the future that would t ake a long time to fulfil. and rode grandly over the rollers that followed. 1896. out of danger. Th e Plate is a treacherous place for storms. One sailing there should always be on the alert for squalls. rolled down upon her i n a storm. weak as it may seem. It was when I anc hored in the lonely places that a feeling of awe crept over me. On January 26. but rose quickly out of it. the culmination. flash before me. Matias and the mi ghty Gulf of St. but it seemed a long while. while the sloop was reaching under short sail. The first one was. and I was glad of a tow from a harbor tug to clear the port entrance. heartsore of choppy seas. and all the other dangers of the River Plate. There was little wind at the start. under all sail. and even then I found i t reaching far enough from home. roaring as it came. I cast anchor before dark in the best lee I could find n ear the land. For. and caused an ugl y sea. we ll off the Patagonian coast. but was tossed miserably all night. CHAPTER VII Weighing anchor at Buenos Aires--An outburst of emotion at the mouth of the Plat e--Submerged by a great wave--A stormy entrance to the strait--Captain Samblich' s happy gift of a bag of carpet-tacks--Off Cape Froward--Chased by Indians from Fortescue Bay--A miss-shot for "Black Pedro"--Taking in supplies of wood and wat er at Three Island Cove--Animal life. George. I took a departure. I regretted that I had not shortened it another foot. for under great excit ement one lives fast. one day. but while I worked at the sails and rigging I thought only of onward and forward. and in a few seconds one may think a great deal of one's p ast life. My ship passed in safety Bahia Blanca. I remember. pressing farther and farther toward th e wonderland of the South. I had not for many years been south of these regions. Not only did the past. of many waves. when I saw the mighty crest towering masthead-high above me.out at any price and avoid the catastrophe. I gave all the capes a berth of about fifty miles. it seemed." My friend Mr. sailed from Buenos Aires. It may have been a minute that from my hold in the rigging I could see no part of the Spray's hull. and more than once. I unshipped the sloop's mast at Buenos Aires and shortened it by seven feet. the surface o f the great river was like a silver disk. when on the end of it reefi ng the jib. Perhaps it was even less time than that. I had only a moment to get all sail down and myse lf up on the peak halliards. Hoping that she might go clear of the destructive tideraces. that if the Spray came . English Bank. the river was now all mud. The mountain of water submerged my vessel She shook in every timber and reeled under the weight of the sea. and instead of being all silver. Mulhall drove me roun d to view the fearful comet with streaming tail pictured large on the trembling merchant's walls. But a gale came up soon after. On t he following morning I got the sloop under way. With a fair wind she then bore away fo r the Strait of Magellan. I will not say that I e xpected all fine sailing on the course for Cape Horn direct. with electric speed.

and hunting. and blowing a gal e. which I hope yet to do. On February 11 the Spray rounded Cape Virgins and entered the Strait of Magel lan. From the time the great wave swept over the Spray until she reached Cape Virg ins nothing occurred to move a pulse and set blood in motion. The kaleidesco pe then changed. I had only a moment to douse sail and lash all solid when it struck like a shot from a cannon. A large percentage of the business there was traffic in "fire-water. except away in the southwest. What with shee p-farming. It reassured me against rude C ape Horn. Sandy Point (Punta Arenas) is a Chilean coaling-station. on the oth er hand. the terror of Cape Horn. and on the following day I sailed in a world peopled by dwarfs. cast anchor at Sandy Point on February 14. t he weather became fine and the sea smooth and life tranquil. wondering who could b e there that knew the Spray so well as to call out her name passing in the dark. I sprang to the deck. two fur-seals asleep on the surface of the sea appeared like g reat whales. for it was now the blackest of nights all around. and was soon chirruping under the lee of Cape Virgins and running every minute i nto smoother water. I reefed the sloop's sails. long trailing kelp from sunken rocks waved forebodi ngly under her keel. Between the two. and the Spray. so bea stly drunk were they." If there wa s a law against selling the poisonous stuff to the natives. but this she stemmed. but a customhouse was in course of constructi on. In the height of t he squalls in this gale she doused all sail. and for the first half-hour it was something to be remembered by way of a gale. and a fierce current swept around the cape against her. I shoul d have made under protest. which filled me with fear. An albatross sitting on the water one day loomed up l ike a large ship. and when it is finished. port and tariff dues are to be collected. Fitful rain-squalls from the northwest followed the northeast gale. looking smart in the morning when they c ame into town. and a bank of haze I could have sworn was high land. Fine specimens of the Patagonian race. sent feather-white spume along the coast. the wind. with t hese she held on stoutly and was not blown out of the strait. But the natives. However. 1896. My senses hea rd "Spray ahoy!" shouted in warning. However. to say nothing about the peltry of which they had been rob bed. The port at that time was free. But a rolling sea followed her a long way in . passing through the narrows without mishap. The Virgins would collect tribute even from the Spray passing their promontory. the settlers in this dreary land seemed not the worst off in the world. where the old familiar white arch. through combers. of mixed nationality. northeast. I was not to be let off easy. were as squalid as contact with unscrupulous traders could make them. I was so strongly impressed with what in all nature I might expect th at as I dozed the very air I breathed seemed to warn me of danger. As the sloop neared the entrance to the strait I observed that two great tide-races made ahead. A soldier . such a sea ran as would swamp an il l-appointed ship. For thirty hours it kept on blowing hard. The scene was again real and gloomy. and sitting in the cabin to res t my eyes. was only one more test of the Spray's seaworthiness. had repented before night of ever having seen a white man. less easily kept. The sloop could carry no more than a three-reefed mainsail and forestaysail. in a sort of channel. and the wreck of a great steamship smashed on the beach abr east gave a gloomy aspect to the scene. gold-mining. After this gale followed only a smart breeze. went the Spray with close-reefed sails. and this occurred often enough. one very close to the point of the land and on e farther offshore. it was not enforced. Patagonian and Fuegian.through this danger I would dedicate my best energies to building a larger ship on her lines. but mostly Chileans. the incident. Other promises. and boasts about two thousand inhabitants. rapidly pushed up b y a southwest gale. The phenomenon of m irage frequently occurred. On the contrary.

and offered to unbend her mainsail for me if I would accept it Last of all. but seeing no signs of li fe. off Cape Froward. coming along. "that is to say. to my mind. I found only one man willing to embark. with hardly so much as a bird in sight. Then he gave me. a Chilean naval officer. The sloop held the wind fair while she ran thirty miles farther on her course . for u se farther along on the voyage. even without sail on. gave me a bag of carpet-tacks. which brought her to Fortescue Bay. the southernmost point of the continent of A merica." he said. over on her be am ends. 1896. himsel f of a jovial turn of mind. since there w as no help for it. if only for a short tim e. A full-blown williwaw will throw a ship. and after giving me the tacks h e put on board bags of biscuits and a large quantity of smoked venison. The port captain. they cease now and then. whenever an execution was made they killed the wrong man. and he on condition that I should ship another "mon and a doog. but as a general thing. were of more val ue than gold. even alone. He decla red that my bread. like other gales. which I heartily agreed to do . Samblich was greatly interested in my voyage. I came to anchor in eight fathoms of water. Samblich's tacks. and I was right. where I lay all night under a hi gh mountain. But I felt sure of success without this draft on a friend. which blazed up now on all sides. but to avoid killing them if possible. February 20 was my birthday. and spoke of my stopping until a gunboat should be going through. however. Clouds flew over the mountain from the west . Just previous to my arrival the governor. which was ordinary sea-biscuits and easily broken. worth more than all the fighting men and dogs of Tierra del Fu ego." But as no one else was willing to come along. in case the sav ages tried to surround me with their canoes. and as I drew the line at dogs. as it turned out. which extended from this point on through the strait to the Pacific. which was so hard that I could break it only with a stout blow from a maul.police guarded the place. and at once among the natives' signal-fire s. and I found myself alone. a compass which was certainly better than mine. don't step on them yourself. A fair wind from Sandy Point brought me on the first day to St. and I sailed on the same day. so I was told. advised me to ship hands to fight Indians in the strait farther west. I think. I said no more a bout the matter. and begin to do it in time. which would give me a t ow. set up no further objections. February 19. but simply loaded my guns. It was not without though ts of strange and stirring adventure beyond all I had yet encountered that I now sailed into the country and very core of the savage Fuegians. a good Austrian of large experience. After canvassing the place. I might expect to meet savages. from his own sloop. Th ey were compressed gales of wind that Boreas handed down over the hills in chunk s. With these simple injunctions the officer gave me my port clearance free of ch arge. but advised me. to shoot straight. The port captain finding that I was resolved to go. where. called wi lliwaws. I protested that I had no use for carpet-tacks on board. By daylight in the morning I was getting my ship under way for the bout ahead. Nicholas Bay. and saw the way to maintain clear decks at night without the care of watching." With this remote hint about the use of the tacks I got on all right. had sent a party of young bloods to foray a Fuegian settlement and wipe out what they could of it on account of the recent massacre of a schooner's crew somewhere else. Samblich smiled at my want of experience. At this point in my dilemma Captain Pedro Samblich. this large-hearted man brought out a bottle of Fuegian gold-dust f rom a place where it had been cached and begged me to help myself from it. Here I had my first experience with the terrific squalls. and maintained stoutly that I would have use for them. Altogether the place was quite newsy and su pported two papers--dailies. " You must use them with discretion. was not nu tritious as his. but. and a sort of vigilante force besides took down its g uns now and then.

I knew by his Spa nish lingo and by his full beard that he was the villain I have named. The wind falling light. at night my good east wind failed. It lies to the south of Charles Is land. By daylight the next morning the Spray was again under way. I saw that besides four at the paddles in the canoe nearest to me. for during these two days it blew so hard that no boat could venture o ut on the strait. they gained on me rapidly till coming within hail. I came to anchor at midnight in Three Island Cove. and in its stead a gale from the we st soon came on. and the natives being away to other hunting-grounds. however. so that I had to get her under way and beat farther into the cove. and that they were shifting hands often . Finding that the anchor held. Seals are never plentiful in these waters. At an other time or place this would have been a rash thing to do. and no other. hard beating in the heavy squalls and again st the current had told on my strength. He made for the island now. That ma de two men. but she came to in a cove in Charles Island. I arranged forward on the lookout. or seals on the rocks. At eighty yards I fired a shot across the bows of the nearest canoe. to tell the truth. and the others followed him. "Bueno jo via Isla. So much for the first day among the savages. with both anchors down in a bed of k elp. Canoes manned by savages from Fortescue now came in pursuit. an d which I had still on board. a renegad e mongrel. That made three of us. but for all that the savages came on faster than before. and other signs of the absence of savage men." as he it was. he rubbed his starboard cat-head for some time. passing through the hold. with only a narrow channel between. Here she remained undisturbed two days. and must have aimed pretty straight. The authorities had been in search of him for two years. two and a half miles along on her cour se. under the lee of a little island." and sitting down in his canoe. and a bow-legged savage stood up and called to me. where I came to in a landlocked pool. a miss was as good as a mile for Mr. I went ashore with gun an d ax on an island. I gained anchorage at twelve o'clock that night. and so I stepped into the cabin. Indeed. "Black Pedro. and named the place Coffee Island. and we didn't want to "yammerschooner". and. of which I was sor ely in need. I was thinking of the good port captain's advice when I pulled the trigger . Then the piece of bowsprit which I had sawed off at Buenos Aires. "Yammerschooner! yammer schooner!" which is their begging term. The Fuegians are not bearded. but only for a moment. and then prepared myself a cup of coffee. changing my clothes as I went along. I said. I was not for letting on that I was alone. I have always taken it as a sign that wh ere I found birds sitting about. and it was safe now only from the fact that the gale which drove me to shelter would keep the India ns from crossing the strait. Seeing this was the case. there were others in the bottom. and again sailed out upon the strait. I should not find savage Indians. a leader in several bloody massa cres.all day. and although she was in th e lee of the land. but in Three Island Cove I saw one on the rocks. but where I lay it was quite deserted by natives. when they ceased padd ling. On the next day the wind was again blowing a gale. beating hard. But at the end of the fierce wind-storm fair weather came. and there felled trees and split about a cord of fire-wood. for. . I drank my beverage. she might have remained undisturbed indefinitely had not the wind m oderated. about twenty miles along from Fortescue Bay. attaching a line by which I could pull it into motion. the islan d anchorage was safe. came out at the fore-scuttle. the sloop dragged her anchors. and the worst murderer in Tierra del Fuego. then I got my anchors. dressed as a se aman. "No!" Now. I saw on the opp osite side of the strait signal-fires. and heard the barking of dogs. which loaded my small boat several t imes. where I could not in any event be surprised. Seeing that they persisted in coming ne arer. I fired the second shot so close to the chap who wanted to "yammerschooner " that he changed his mind quickly enough and bellowed with fear. at which they all stopped.

One of her midshi pmen sang popular songs in French. and that I was opening out another world ahead. a few miles on her course. I knew now that I had put a world behin d me. she fetched Borgia Bay. An instance of Magellan weather was aff orded when the Huemel. both of which made good fuel. and beat many days against the current. I had taken a survey of the gloom y place with my spy-glass. She was commanded and officered by high-class sailors and educated gentlemen. I took great care against all kinds of surprises. a thing that required little eloquence to persuade me to do. She anchored and weighed many times. w hen the Chilean gunboat Huemel came in. showing that some man had been there. I accepted the captain's kind offer of a tow to the next anchorage. for then the Huemel put out on her voyage the gale having abated. at the Notch would be hard to beat anywhere. But how could one tell but that he had died of loneliness and grief? In a bleak land is not the pl ace to enjoy solitude. In the Strait of Magellan the greatest vigilance was necessary. that the reader who has kindly bo rne with me so far may see that in this. An entertainment that was gotten up o n her. The Spray sailed from Three Island Cove in the morning after the gale went do wn. and Spanish. Nothing else could I see to in dicate that civilized man had ever been there. and one (so he said) in Russian. by the end of that t ime the weather was fine. coming on board. a t the place called Notch Cove. I spent a day taking in wood and water. where I should be clea r of the worst of the Fuegians. In t his instance I reasoned that I had all about me the greatest danger of the whole voyage--the treachery of cunning savages. as in all other particulars of my voyag e. On the hill back of Port Tamar a small bea con had been thrown up. We made anchorage at the cove about dark that night. The trees on the island. for which I must be particularly on t he alert. There is little more to be said concerning the Spray's first passage through the strait that would differ from what I have already recorded.While I carried the wood. on some of them not even a speck of moss had ever grown. whether by animals or by th e elements. I hav e described my method of wooding up in detail. There was an u nfinished newness all about the land. eight miles farther along. Great piles of granite mountains of bleak and lifeless aspect were now astern. with Cape Pillar in sight to the west. and was getting my boat out to land and take notes. were a sort of beech and a stunted cedar. while the wind came down in fierce williwaws from the mountains. burned readily in my great drum-stove. where ve ssels had anchored from time to time and had nailed boards on the trees ashore w ith name and date of harboring carved or painted. a well-appointed gunboat of great power. Then I sailed from the desolate place. I had passed the haunts of savages. Sailing again o n the following day. German. Here I felt the thro b of the great ocean that lay before me. advised m e to leave the place at once. I was left alone the next day. an d lucky she was to get back! Meeting this vessel was a little godsend. it was no drawback to the merriment. though I was morally sure there were no savages nea r. impromptu. till finally she gained anchorage and shelter for the night at Port Tamar. which se emed to possess a resinous quality. with now and then a "slant" for a few miles. and officers. after attempting on the following day to proceed on her voyage. I never once went to or from the skiff without my gun. If the audience did not know the lingo of one song from another. While I had that and a clear field of over eighty yards about me I felt safe. Even the green limbs of the beech. very scattering. . but was glad to return for shelter from another sudden gale. was obliged by sheer force of th e wind to return and take up anchorage again and remain till the gale abated.

between seas. and for a time I pos tponed cooking. my ship was wholesome and noble. which might have been broug ht down with the gun. "Remember. plunged into the Pacific Ocean at once. She ran all night with a free sheet. stripped of her sails. and I lashe d the helm amidship. but in the loneliness of life about the dreary country I f ound myself in no mood to make one life less. In the tide-race off Cape Pillar. Lord. except in self-defense. uneven. so call ed because it propels itself over the sea with its wings. the sheets flat amidship. however. but on the morning of March 4 the wind shifted to s outhwest. The y showed white teeth while the sloop balanced over them. then bore off under bare poles. indeed. for the land was now shut out by the darkness of night. Anyhow. and in no part of the world could a rougher sea be found than at this particular point. I seldom or never put a hook over during the whole voyage. I insist ed on warm meals. My mind as to her seaworthiness was put at ease for aye. and that it would be impossible to work back to the westwar d along the coast outside of Tierra del Fuego. I did not catch one. and I took in a third reef. as though a bout to round the Horn. It soon began to rain and thicken in the northwest. my ship is sma ll and thy sea is so wide!" I saw now only the gleaming crests of the waves. It was the 3d of March when the Spray sailed from Port Tamar direct for Cape Pillar. "Everything for an offi ng. while the waves rose and fell and bellowed their never-e nding story of the sea. The steamboat duck. and resembles a miniat ure side-wheel steamer in its motion. the grim sentinel of the Horn. taking h er first bath of it in the gathering storm. The sea was confused and treacherous. shipping never a sea." I cried. The wi nd freshened. CHAPTER VIII From Cape Pillar into the Pacific--Driven by a tempest toward Cape Horn--Captain Slocum's greatest sea adventure--Beaching the strait again by way of Cockburn C hannel--Some savages find the carpet-tacks--Danger from firebrands--A series of fierce williwaws--Again sailing westward. There was no turning back even had I wished to do so. and blew with terrific force. And so she drove southeast. but there was no such good luck in store. after all. She wa s running now with a reefed forestaysail. and crooked. . then back suddenly to northwest. Birds were not plentiful. and. my appetite was slim. i t moves faster than a rowboat or a canoe. Th ere was a sort of swan. I fared sumptuously on them. which I fervently hoped might hold til l she cleared the land. The few fur-seals I saw were very shy. When all had been done that I could do for the safety of the vessel. which I took for a loon. there seemed nothing to do but to keep on and go east about. I paid out t wo long ropes to steady her course and to break combing seas astern. and to this end I carried on all the sail she would bear. In this trim she ran before it. and of fishes I saw next to none at all. namely. I was seasick!) The first day of the storm gave the Spray her actual test in the worst sea th at Cape Horn or its wild regions could afford. The Spr ay. where the sea was m arvelously high. and made a good Irish stew.Throughout the whole of the strait west of Cape Froward I saw no animals exce pt dogs owned by savages. off Cape Pillar. nothing loath. as before and afterward on the Spray. hitting the water instead of the air with its wings. Here in the strait I found gre at abundance of mussels of an excellent quality. I got to the fore-scuttle. The Spray reared Cape Pill ar rapidly. was sometimes seen scurrying on out of dan ger. sometimes startled me with its piercing cry. and heard them yelping night and day. Even while the storm raged at its worst. (Confidentially. No ship in the world could have stood up against so violent a gale. Knowing that this storm might con tinue for many days. with the wind from the northeast. The scream of a wild fowl. for my present safety the only co urse lay in keeping her before the wind. Then. smaller than a Muscovy duck. but. but the Hand that held these held also the Spray. It never flies. In such a time as this the old fisherman prayed. These I saw often enough. and prepared a pot of coffee over a wood fire. boding no good.

In thi s way. March 8. On the fourth day of the gale. but with always a thrill--yes. The fi erce edge of the gale by this time had blown off. with only the reefed forestaysail set. I spent the rest of the night. even that small sail shook her from keelson to truck when it shivered by the leech. in the F alkland Islands. The sloop at last reached inside of small islands that sheltered her in smoot h water. for there should have been n o broken water where I supposed myself to be. I insp ected my chart and pricked off the course and distance to Port Stanley. leaving her feeling the wa y in pitchy darkness. where I might find my way and refit. for it was more than rough on the o utside coast of Tierra del Fuego. behold. I hauled in the trailing ropes. I discovered. What could I do but f ill away among the breakers and find a channel between them. . though not the one I had supposed. Night closed in before the sloop reached the land. I kept off a good bit. There the Spray rode. I stood at the helm now and made the most of it. Whole days passed. and I had already bent a squar e-sail on the boom in place of the mainsail. So it turned out to be. The Spray's good luck followed fast. "Any landsman seeing the Milky Way would have nightmare for a wee k. It was indeed a mountainous sea. rapidly nearing the pitch of Cape Horn. counted as other days. which was torn to rags. but finding broken water also there. about seven leagues away on the port beam. threw her head again offshore. that she was in the Cockburn Channel. and so she drove on. and steering her over the crests of the waves so that she might not trip was nice work. surely she would find her w ay by daylight. the forestaysail being al ready set. whic h is northwest of Cape Horn. At this I wore ship and stood offshore. which leads into the Strait of Magellan at a point opposite Cape Froward. but was immediately startled by the tremendous roaring of breake rs again ahead and on the lee bow. God knows how my vessel escaped. hoisted this awkward sail reefed. and under this sail brought her at once on the wind heading for the l and. and it was the white breakers of a huge sea over su nken rocks which had threatened to engulf her through the night. When the sloo p was in the fiercest squalls. And at night. and what a panorama was before me now and all around! It was not the time to complain of a broken skin. Hail and sleet in the fierc e squalls cut my flesh till the blood trickled over my face. It was Fury Isl and I had sighted and steered for. she was at anchor in a snug cove at the Turn! Every heart-beat on the Spray now coun ted thanks. it would have been that she might spring a leak in the garboard at the heel of the mast. suggestively named. Under pressure of the smallest sail I could set she made for t he land like a race-horse. I was exultant over the prospect of once more entering the Strait of Magellan and beating through again into the Pacific. but what of that? I t was daylight. now like a bird on the crest of a wave. but she never called me once to the pump. of delight. now that it was day ? Since she had escaped the rocks through the night. Then I climbed the mast to survey the wild scene astern. "or seaman" as well. when I saw through a rift in the clouds a high mountain. and now li ke a waif deep down in the hollow between seas. This puzzled me. This was the greatest sea adventure of my life. which appeared as an island in the sea. and wrote i n his journal. as she sailed along throug h a labyrinth of islands. The great natu ralist Darwin looked over this seascape from the deck of the Beagle. there was less apprehension of danger. Had I harbored the shadow of a doubt for her safety." He might have added. I saw breakers ahead before long. and that she was alrea dy passing Thieves' Bay. and the sloop was in the midst of the Milky Way of the sea.Farther offshore. then wore r ound. among dangers. while the sea was majestic.

except two scuttles. to let the rascals know that I was h ome. While I was w ondering why no trees grew on the slope abreast of the anchorage. for it is their custom to commu nicate by smoke-signals. to cool off. or to ancho r within range where they might lie in ambush. and I had ample time to weigh both anchors before the sloop came near any danger. The only real danger one could see that might come from their quarter would be from allowing them to surround one within bow-shot. while I was asleep in the cabin. I fired several guns when I came on deck. and. I always kept a quantity of ammunition within reach in the hold and in the cabin and in the forepeak. I saw no more savages that day or the next. they were wise in not being afloat even on the second day. like a feather out of the co ve and away into deep water. but changed their minds w hen they stepped on deck. but a hot meal of venison stew soon put me right. at least. From the cove to the nearest land to leeward was a long drift. I now began to feel jaded an d worn. they howled like a pack of hounds. I had hardly use fo r a gun. They jumped pell-mell. strangely enough. so that I could sleep. The port captain of Sandy Point warned me particularly of this danger. and there was a deal of free language over it as they went . they regard a rifle with su perstitious fear. On the morning of the 9th. and these were guarded by fastenings which could not be un done without waking me if I were asleep. I got out what spare canvas there was on bo ard. Only a short time before they had fired a Chilean gunboat by throwing brands in through the stern windows of the cabin. I had no need of a dog. and that was just w hat happened that night about twelve o'clock. for when t he Spray passed Thieves' Bay two canoes had put out and followed in her wake. as on the da . near the brook. Every canoe carries fire. the tarpaulin. than the wind. so that retreating to any of these pl aces I could "hold the fort" simply by shooting up through the deck. an d there was no disguising the fact any longer that I was alone. in stead of feeling rested from sitting or lying down. for then they thought that I or somebody else had them . The day to all appearances promised fine weather and lig ht winds. after a refreshing rest and a warm breakfast. being cruel. I suppose. No wonder trees did not grow on the side of that hi ll! Great Boreas! a tree would need to be all roots to hold on against such a fu rious wind. As for their coming on deck at ni ght. w here the savages thought they "had me. some into their canoes and some into the sea. The Spray had no openings in the cabin or deck. it is well known that one cannot step on a tack without saying something about it. A pretty good Christian will whistle when he steps on the "commercial end" of a carpet-tack. I could have cleared them off by shots from the cabin and hold. I saw to it that not a few of them stood "business end" up. Perhaps the greatest danger to be apprehended was from the use of fire. half minded to lay by the sail-making and land with my gun for some game and to inspect a whit e boulder on the beach. are naturally cowards. As drowsiness came on I sprinkled the deck with tacks.Here I pondered on the events of the last few days. a savage will howl and claw the air. The harmless brand that lies smoldering in the bottom o f one of their canoes might be ablaze in one's cabin if he were not on the alert . and so no harm came of it. after the anchor was down. and then I turned in. for I had no sooner gotten to w ork at sail-making again." sloop and all. nothing is thought of that. feeling sure I should not be disturbed any more by people who left in so great a hurry. and began to sew the pieces together in the shape of a peak for my square-m ainsail. be aring in mind the advice of my old friend Samblich that I was not to step on the m myself. but appearances in Tierra del Fuego do not always count. even had I not put tacks about. The Fuegians. and after I had swept the deck of tacks. they probabl y had some sign by which they knew of the coming williwaws. however. with two anchors down. and then I turned in again. a williwaw came down with such terrific force as to carry the Spray. Now.

Dismal Famine Reach! On the sloop's crab-windlass I work ed the rest of the night. which I managed to reach. and the sails flapped and hung limp while she carried her way close in. head ing across for St. But at th e touch of her helm she swung clear of the danger. and in the next moment she wa s in the lee of the land. Within the last few days I had passed through much and was now thankful that my state was no worse." than now doing all myself. instead of resting. where I had cast anchor February 19. expecting. brought me forward to s ee instantly a dark cliff ahead and breakers so close under the bows that I felt surely lost. I was determined to rely on my own small resources to repair the damages of t he great gale which drove me southward toward the Horn. The parting of a staysail-sheet in a williwaw. picked the sloop up and flung her seaward with a vengeance. after I had passed from the Strait of Magellan out into the Pacific. This fierce wind. I turned the prow o f the Spray westward once more for the Pacific. It was the small island in the middle of the bay for which the sloop had been steering. This was retracing my course toward Sandy Point.y before. "Do that thing or the other. and threw the wheel over. It was daybreak when the anchor was at the hawse. Still farth er to leeward was a great headland. Nicholas. I kept on sailing in hope. Here I thou ght I would anchor and rest till morning. where the sea was as smooth as a mill-pond. and in a short time rounded to under the lee of a mountain. But I hove away and sang the old chants that I sang when I was a sailor. I had to "man the windlass" and heave up the anchor with fifty fatho ms of cable hanging up and down in deep water. I had the sloop soon under good control. and I bore off for that. unheeding the flapping sail. But the Spray had not yet arrived at St. as the sloop came down into the hollow of a wave. Nicholas Bay. CHAPTER IX Repairing the Spray's sails--Savages and an obstreperous anchor-A spider-fight-An encounter with Black Pedro--A visit to the steamship Colombia--On the defensi ve against a fleet of canoes--A record of voyages through the strait--A chance c argo of tallow. altogether to leeward of the bay. and I was more than half minded to put in for new sails. but before I could get the anchor down another squall caught the sloop and whirled her roun d like a top and carried her away. She came within sight of ships at anchor in the roads. and which she made with such unerring aim as nearly to run it down. to feel her timbers smash under me on the rocks. the depth being eight fathoms very clo se to the shore. as before. and swept the sloop by several miles of steep bluffs and precipi ces overhanging a bold shore of wild and uninviting appearance. when th e sea was turbulent and she was plunging into the storm. after a ll. F arther along in the bay was the anchorage. and cat's-paws took the place of williwaws. while the sloop drifted sl owly toward Sandy Point. usual to the Magellan country. to traverse a second time the se cond half of my first course through the strait. By this time the wind had g one down. It was now the 10th of March! Upon reaching the bay the second time I had circumnavigated the wildest part of desolate Tierra del Fuego. But it was interesting to see. that it did not reach the bottom before another williwaw struck down from this mountain and carried the sloop off faster than I could pay out cable. "Is the hand of fate against me. since I had no choice but to go on. which was fair for the other direction. Therefore. anchor and all. continued on t hrough the day. So when I had got back into the str . thinking how much easier it was for me when I could sa y. however. as I let go the anchor. I was not sorry to get away from it. though in doing so it was no Elysian shore to which I shape d my course. but the wind coming out from the northeast. This was in that part of the stra it called Famine Reach. and in my thoughts cried. for the gale was from the southwest. and by the merest accident her bones were saved from resting t here when she did arrive. leading me in the end to this dark spot?" I sprang aft again.

and put the Fuegians entirely on the defensive. Here my own voice answered b ack. first hauling short by hand. b ut that was not the case. taking. The sloop carried her ancho r away. As it was. set to work with my palm and needle at every opportunity. I called a long run. repaired the windlass . in these days o f many adversities. and with one eye over my shoulder for savages. and made fair time through the strait for the distance of twenty miles. After clearing Snug Bay I hauled the sloop to the wind. but little by little the squaresail on the boom e xpanded to the dimensions of a serviceable mainsail with a peak to it and a leec h besides. but turning again into the northwestward reach of the strait . if perchance the sloop should be blown off again. and then stretched across to a po rt of refuge under a high mountain about six miles away. They were well manned. oddly enough. I watched at the same time. I set al l sail and filled away. The conduct of this insect interested me now more than anything else around the wild place. and sent a bullet whistling whenever I saw a limb or a twig move. However. for I kept a gun always at hand. At a shot from my rifle across the bows. But now I was put to my wit's end as to how I should weigh anchor. I made a landing for fuel. for throug h an accident to the windlass right here I could not budge it. and even for my own life. a spider of its own size and s pecies that had come all the way from Boston--a very civil little chap. The weather. A ship. except a small spider. and hove the anchor to the hawse. I was obliged to hoist the sails. Well. Sea-cuts in my hands from pulling on hard. This being so. the Fuegian threw up its antennae for a fight. I say. and came to in nine fat homs close under the face of a perpendicular cliff. that two canoes which I had eluded by sailing all night were now entering the same bay stealthily under the shadow of the high headland. which had nested in a dry log that I boated to the slo op. Care for the safety of my vessel.ait. besides my ax. but these healed when I finally got away from the strait into fine weather. to find. and the Sp ray was never long without them during her struggles about Cape Horn. however. a rifl e. I now enjoyed gales of wind as never before. inasmuch as the savages on comparatively fine days ve ntured forth on their marauding excursions. a distance of six mile s. was in no wise lessened by the absence of heavy weather. as though it was meant to be always towed in this way underfoot. which. Meanwhile I worked till blood started from my fingers. and the savages were well armed wi th spears and bows. but I saw no living thing her e. If it was not the best-setting sail afloat. too. was fine for a few days. but it brought little rest. and in boisterous weather disappeare d from sight. the wind blowing a wholesale breeze. but mighty spry. which I had barely low ered. and I named the place "Echo Mountain. which on these days I never left far from hand. catted it. where I anchored at gray morning after passing Ca pe Froward. both turned aside i nto a small creek out of range. would make me the ag gressor. and an I ndian appearing then within range would have been taken as a declaration of war. and make across to the opposite side of the strait. their wretched canoes being frail and undeserving the name of craf t at all. Indeed. It was slow work. when broad day appeared. but my little . I did not proceed eastward for help at the Sand y Point settlement. This feeling was forcib ly borne in on me at Snug Bay. when at anchor and w hen sailing. I became i n a measure inured to the life. t he peril was even greater. wet rope s were sometimes painful and often bled freely. by way of Cockburn Channel. and wit h it she towed a ton or more of kelp from a reef in the bay. it was at least very stro ngly made and would stand n hard blow. reported her as wearing a mainsail of some improved design and patent reefer. and began to think that one more trip through th e strait. In my cabin it met. my own blood was all that was spilt--and from the trifling accident of sometimes breaking the flesh against a cleat or a pin which came in the way when I was in haste. The Spray for a few days after the storm enjoyed fine weather. meeting the Spray long afterward. In danger now of being flanked by the savages in the bush close aboard." Seeing dead trees farther along wher e the shore was broken.

"Yammerschooner" was their plaint when they pushed off from the shore. yes. one of the squaws. "hombre valiente." add ing with some warmth that it was "muy malo. Before weighing anchor. "When you sailed through here before. however. I made haste the following morning to be under way after a night of wakefulne ss on the weird shore. a nd I think it worth mentioning that she did not offer me the smallest pieces. who had killed a kinsman of Samblich--"yes." and appeared delighted to meet one who had come from the dear old place. so dexterously that in less than three minutes from the time the battle bega n the Fuegian spider didn't know itself from a fly. bu . one by o ne. and a tri be of savages. whic h I sighted on my birthday. "Yes.Bostonian downed it at once. then broke its legs. Even had I not been ad vised before I sailed from Sandy Point. "when you passed up here." and his full beard identified him as the Blac k Pedro whom. while the sloop ranged about under sail in t he lee of the land. There was no need of the warning. but I made signs t hat one canoe might come alongside." and with a leer he added. Pointing to my r ifle on the cabin. mustered here since my first trip through the strait. as I did. with that spark of kindliness which is somehow found in the breast of even the lowest savage." were two squaws and one Indian. In th e canoe that came alongside. he is a great friend of mine." " I know it." I explained that I did all the work in the day." said I. knowing him. and pulled them off. Moreover. and incidentally laid a s mart Martini-Henry rifle in sight. The others I motioned to keep off. I saw three men on board.1896." said he. I was interested in the subtle cunning of this savage. however. I thought I recognized the tone of his "yammerschooner. the hardest specimens of humanity I had ev er seen in any of my travels. I had met before. his jaw fell. stepping forward as if to embrace an old friend. "Yes. and "yammerschooner" it was when they got alongside. manned thei r canoes to put off for the sloop. I motioned him back. Where are t he other two?" I answered him briefly that the same crew was still on board. The sq uaws beckoned for food. I prepared a cup of warm coffee over a smart wood fire in my great Montevideo stove. as he glanced at the mainsail. "Bu t. a black-visaged savage. so that they would be fresh to wa tch for Indians at night. or Black Pedro would do me harm. "Cuantos?" said he . but on my turning my back for so me biscuits and jerked beef for the squaws. which was thickly wooded. for I was on my guard from the first." said the villain. indeed. to come out of th e fore-scuttle and deal him his just deserts for many murders. In the same fire wa s cremated the Fuegian spider. and s aid. and one of them gave me several lumps of tallow in exchange. slain the day before by the little warrior from B oston. on the top of the cabin. stood sulkily as if he took no interest at all in the matter. "Why. "Where are the rest of the crew?" h e asked." I affected not to understand. "About three week s ago. expecting hands. the "buck" sprang on deck and confro nted me. Samblich had told me to shoot him on sight. The Spray now reached away for Coffee Island." said he. On a bluff point on Charles were signal-fires. crying their never-ending begging word "yammerschoo ner. an d he spoke of getting away. I gave the squaws b iscuits and beef. When I explained to him that that gun kept right on shooting. while the rest of the crew slept. for I did not share his flattering humor. It was not prudent to come to. maybe." he replied. saying in Spanish jargon that we had met before. I did not hinder him from going. warned me by a sign to be on my guard. have you not I" He answered frankly. "At th e mission?" I queried." he said. while the Indian. as he looked uneasily around. and at that moment held a smart revolver in my hand ready for instant service. "I see you are doing all the work. it was true. that brought her in the lee of great Char les Island for shelter. "you fired a shot at me. There she encountered another gale. " And you know Captain Pedro Samblich?" continued I. he wanted to know how many times it fired. close at hand. I should have measured him for an arch-v illain now. which a Scots lady at Cape Town long after named "Bruce" upon hearing of its prowess at Echo Mountain. "You have lived at Sandy Point. February 20. the anchorage being within bow-shot of the shore. better perhaps than he was aware.

and I remember that the guileless young man asked me if I co uld manage. the one that "kept on shooting. Before pushing off from the sloop the cunning savage asked for matches. or to steal all. which I found t o be the Colombia. where she anchor ed and spent a comfortable night under the lee of high land. Under the cover of darkness that night I went to the steamer. Black Pedro here came alongside again. going direct to the steamer to "yammerschooner. soon following." On her second trip to Panama she w as wrecked on the rocks of the California coast. and in the strai . and he referred affectionately to days in Manila when we were there together." The chap picked the box off the gun gingerly enough. The captain gave his steward some order. Not to neglect a precaution. but I held it toward him on the muzzle of my rifle . and toward night the savages made their appearance from the island. and saluted as she went by . There was a good understanding among us all. passed. In the chief mate of the Colombia. Returning to the Spray. Captain Henderson. I carried all my guns along with me. from New York. in case it should be necessary to fight my wa y back. She was no Diego craft. I prepared for an early sta rt in the morning. I assured the fellow that if I remained there another day I would lend him the gun." at which the squaws laughed and seemed not at all displeased. and the poise. a few cans of milk and a cheese. The Spray was then beating against wind and current. bound for San Francisco. At this point the tides from the Atlantic and the Pacific meet. I sprinkled tacks on deck before I turned in. and bade him be off. No Christian could have done more.t with some extra trouble handed me the largest of all the pieces in the canoe. From Charles Island the Spray crossed over to Fortescue Bay. through the night for the pleasure alone of seeing her electric lights. When I offere d my Montevideo gold for the supplies. off and on. Mr. as usual in the strait. however. both ships as beautiful as t heir names. Had the captain given me his steamer. and he begged me to lend him my rifle to shoot a guanaco for me in the morning. I watched the steamer. I found an old friend. to be sure. in a late Californi a paper. and made as if to reach with the end of his spear the box I was about to give him. but the Colombia. The Colombia had an abundance of fresh stores on board." Then they came to the Spray to beg more. where I found all secure. I knew the sheer. the model. while the wind howl ed outside. the captain roared like a lion and told m e to put my money up. and I felt quite sure they could not follow the Spray in the pr esent hard blow. It was agreed that the steamer should blow her whistle for me if first on the move. Hannibal. I gave him a cooper's draw-knife and some other small implements which would be of service in canoe-making. but he jumped when I said. he in the Southern Cross and I in the Northern Light. "Quedao [Look out]. The sloop was the first under way. It was a glorious outfit of provisions of all kinds that I got. The bay was deserted now. "The Colombia will be a total loss. I threw out my flag. a pleasing sight in contrast t o the ordinary Fuegian canoe with a brand of fire in it. declaring that they got nothing from the steamer. besides other things. They were Fortescue Indians whom I had see n at the island. I read afterward. Perhaps the wretch had clubbed them that morning for not gathering mussels enough for his breakfast. making for the anchorage with a lofty bearing. On the following day the loneliness of the place was broken by the appearance of a great steamship. The wind had then abated. My own brother could not ha ve been more delighted to see me. a nd directly saw the Stars and Stripes flung to the breeze from the great ship. his company would have been no worse off than they were two or three months later. but I had no mind to remain.

and I hurried back to the sloop to forget myself again in . as before . the rebo und of the tide carrying her clear. they passed down the strait at a distance of a hundred yards from the sloop. bottom up. The sloop being moored." I hoiste d the sloop's flag and fired a gun. to add loneliness to the place. the sloop ran into a streak of light wind. The fine weather seemed. carrying their cross. Passing this place. and would now. Returning to the head of the cove. for there was no anchorage. Their sea-boots. as on the outside coast. curiously enoug h. others were illegible. and also added a hint that they had already visited the Spray's deck. A heavy cloud-bank that had swept across the sky then cl eared away. and many a ha nd that put them there I had known. As they came within hail. I ramble d about near the beach for an hour or more. none that my cables would rea ch. and the Spray sailing along with her shadow was as two sloops on the sea. try her again. Six savages paddled this rather awkwardly with the blades of oars which had b een broken off. and this susta ined the suspicion that they had fallen upon some luckless ship's crew. I have no doubt. I fired several shots over the place. albeit the wind. Paddling clumsily. and when I came upon a spot where a grave was mark ed I went no farther. A few miles farther along was a large steamer ashore. It was they that had moved the grass. "Amigo yammersch ooner. somehow. In their mosquito fleet was a ship's boat stolen probably from a murdered cre w. there was no sign of Indians at the place. flogging against current and wind. all except the one under the little mound. though friendly. and with every prospect of going o n the rocks. I came to a sort of Cal vary. but kept ou tside of eighty yards. would have protecte d their feet and rendered carpet-tacks harmless. was still ahead. their savage crews cried. describe the moonlit scene on the strait at midnight after I had cleared the sa vages and Bonet Island. Then. One of the simple marks. They drew up in a semicircle. Two of the savages standing erect wore sea-boots. in an offhand m anner and as if bound to Fortescue Bay. it appeared to me. I read the names of many other vessels. sister ship to the Colombia. at least. had each set on e up as a beacon to others coming after. surely enough exposing their cunning and treachery. sure enough. Signal-fires sprang up at on ce on all sides. I had no thought of anchoring in their "good port." "Bueno puerto aqui. now scattered the canoes while it extricated the sloop from a dangerous positi on. The Spray. had been left there by the steamship Colimbia. The air of depression was about the place. I threw out my skiff. many a hand now still. for as the sloop swept past the island. their meeting makes a commotion of whirlpools and co mbers that in a gale of wind is dangerous to canoes and other frail craft. which in self-defense would have been the death-line. made Borgia Bay on the followin g afternoon. and then more than twenty canoes hove in sight. there on the other side was the boat. where navigators. A stiff breeze. some of them I copied in my journal. if I could. I soon saw a movement in the grass just on top of the isla nd. Many of the crosses had decayed and fallen. all heading for the Spray." "Anclas aqui. coming up suddenly .t. all of which they might construe as a friend ly salute or an invitation to come on. but saw no other sign of the savages. and cast anchor there for the second time. and so kept a sharp lookout over a small island which soon came in range betwee n them and the sloop. completely hiding them from view. and then--a most remarkable c ondition for strait weather--it fell entirely calm." and like scraps of Spanish mixed wit h their own jargon. if they could. which is called Bonet Island and is one hundred and thirty-six feet high. or nearly so. A high mountain was mirrored in the channel ahead. m y neighbor of that morning. And. Finding it quite deserted. and toward which the Spr ay was now drifting helplessly with the tide. I would now. They had anchored here and gone on. and the night became suddenly as light as day. and filled a barrel of water from a stream. and with ax and gun landed at t he head of the cove. This I judged to be a piece of strategy.

But I worked on till the Spray was loaded with a full cargo. jibed it over. but came to in side a bed of kelp under a steep bluff on the port hand going in. I worked all day now. for the habits of an old trader would come to the surface. H owever. I moored the sloop by kelp in twenty fathoms of water. The bulk of the goods was tallow in casks and in lumps from which the casks had broken away. Th e accident which so jeopardized my vessel and cargo came of a defective sheet-ro pe. where on the following day I discover ed wreckage and goods washed up from the sea. and it was no light work carrying tallow in my arms over the boulders on the beach. I hoisted them all in with the th roat-halyards. however. There were no Indians about Langara. CHAPTER X Running to Port Angosto in a snow-storm--A defective sheetrope places the Spray in peril--The Spray as a target for a Fuegian arrow--The island of Alan Erric--A gain in the open Pacific--The run to the island of Juan Fernandez--An absentee k ing--At Robinson Crusoe's anchorage. Probably it was the same g ale that drove the Spray off Cape Horn. Even the n I did not get the boom shipped in its saddle. which fell thick and fast. for the sheet parted and the boom unshipped . like a bird with a broken wing. It was an exce edingly snug nook. and I had only twenty-six miles to run for Port Angosto. Between t he storm-bursts I saw the headland of my port. above all. however. a dreary enough place. till she looked like a white winter bird. and off Cape Quod. one made from sisal. I sailed from the c ove about noon. I did not run the Spray into the inner harbor of Port Angosto. which I took to the windlass. I had not sailed far. and was steering for it when a fl aw of wind caught the mainsail by the lee. I would find a safe harbor in which to refit and stow cargo. and it was time to haul her to or lose the por t. as well as the hold and deck. and all were thoroughly smeared. when I came abreast of more tallow in a small cove. from March 3 to 8. Hundreds of tons of k elp had been torn from beds in deep water and rolled up into ridges on the beach . I was at the entrance of the har bor before I could get this done. At this place I filled a barrel of water at night. where. It rained and snowed hard all that day. but the wind was still fair. and it was then close upon night. Early the next morning I stood out from Borgia Bay. I was happy then in the prospect of doing a good business farther along on the voyage . evidently there had not been any since t he great gale which had washed the wreckage on shore. roots. by cables to trees. Another gale had then sprung up. where the wind fell light. and dear! dear! how ne arly was this the cause of disaster. The weight of some of the casks was a little over eight hundred pounds. and all. My cabin. I carried on sail to make the harbor before dark. while my vessel was tallowed from keels on to truck. no wind ever reached there except back flaws from the mountains on the o . where I anchored. and. was stowed full of tallow. a treacherous fiber which has caused a deal of strong l anguage among sailors. and embedded in the seaweed was a barrel of wine. but in that condition. I worked till the perspiration poured from m y body to get things adjusted and in working order before dark. a few miles farther along. which I also towed alongside. she made the haven. measured one hu ndred and thirty-one feet in length. salving and boating off a cargo to the sloop. and held her there a few hours against a three-knot current. greased from top to toe.the voyage. all covered with snow . A specimen stalk which I found entire. and to make doubly sure of holding on here against all williw aws I moored her with two anchors and secured her besides. to get it done before the sloop drove to leeward of the port of refuge. and she fairly flew along. and boated off as before. leaves. That night I anchored i n Langara Cove. and on the following day sailed with a fair wind at last.

I fired away a good many cartridges. Ocean. time. The bad weather on my last return to Port Angosto for shelter brought the Chilean gunboat Condor and t he Argentine cruiser Azopardo into port. As the days went by. I did not know but he might be shooting at me. A savage was somewhere near . and heard a "zip"-like sound in the water. the country was made up of mountains. the season became more favorable for a chance to clear t he strait with a fair wind. But th e savages did not return. where it stuck fast. and the officers of each of them mustered a supply of warm flannels. the commander. I stow ed the tallow from the deck to the hold. on the first trip through the strait. being d riven back each. that all my firearms should be in order and that a supply of ammunition should always be ready at hand. which changed the rig to a yawl. had no right to arrest the Fuegian outlaw. however. for Cape Pillar and the Pacific. and the ti me would come for sailing with a fair wind. but her captain blamed me for no t shooting the rascal when he came to my sloop. the rifle that kept on shooting. and with the vessel in good trim. My dear old gun woke up the hills. and took in a good supply of wood and water. I think it was on the second day. in w . such as appear about Cape Horn in the fall and winter seasons. for just then one passing not far from me struck the mainmast.pposite side of the harbor. even at the busiest time of my work there. I was well prepared for another bout with the South ern. The Azopardo. but they kept on. of which I was most in need. and put Fu ego real estate between themselves and the Spray as fast as their legs could car ry them. I remained at Port Angosto some days. to have my rifle b y me ready for instant use. bringing better weather than that experienced in t he summer. I took care then. The officers of the Azopardo told me that. At Port Angosto I met Professor Dusen of the Swedish scientific expedition to South America and the Pacific Islands. and so I threw up my old Mar tini-Henry. bu t saw nothing. busily employed about the sloop. With these additions to my outfit. an d made over the hills. while I was busily employed about decks. for I was of necessity within range of savages. and the first shot uncovered three Fuegians. being a foreign man-ofwar. a little more patience. C aptain Mascarella. sent a boat to the Spray with the message that he would take me in tow for Sandy Point if I would give up the voyage and retur n--the thing farthest from my mind. arranged my cabin in better order. aiming under their f eet to encourage their climbing. as elsewhere in that region. more than ever before. where there were many varieties of moss. I procured some cordage and other small supplies from these vessels. though I called the boat a sloop just the same. there could be no doubt about that. The professor was camped by the side of a brook at the head of the harbor. began to disturb the upper clouds. There. t hough somewhat deeply laden. and so I made up my mind after six attempts. and fitted a jigger. I never forgot. with a view to getting my sloop and her cargo. I never discovered that any more visitors came. and I had only to sweep the deck of tack s carefully every morning after. farther dow n the reach. Presently. I also mended the sloop's sails and rig ging. vibrating from the shock--a Fuegian autograph. the jigger being merely a temporary affair. In the first week in April southeast winds. who scampered from a clump of bushes where they had been concealed. to be in no further haste to sail. I suspected that it was an arrow of some sort . they saw Black Pedro and learned that he had visited me. that I heard the swish of somethin g through the air close by my ear. c oming up the strait after the Spray on her first passage through. As soon as the latter came to anchor. and although I put tacks on deck every night. once more. This was the place where I was to refit and whence I was t o sail direct. misnamed Pacific. and at every report all three of the savages jumped as if shot. and I had seen Fuegian canoes at this place when I anchored in the port.

So it turned out. Of all the little haps and mishaps to the Spray at Port Angosto. larger than others that had threatened all day. it is not my purpose to speak. and the air. Of hindrances there were many to keep her back. Moreover. and of each return for shelter." But they were all fine fellows. "Keep off the grass. But a close shave and a narrow escape were the Spray. in the evening. c ombed athwart her. was within my rights. and my heart softened toward her when I thought of what she had gone throug h. It was necessary to chang e her course in the combing seas. and successfully too. the wind blew hard. the first true winter breeze of the season from that q uarter. and I apostrophized t he Spray as an impatient farmer might his horse or his ox. They seemed disgusted when I filled water at a small stream near the vessel. and for the seventh and last time. for there were no other living creatures about. and penguins.--on . slighting their advice to go farther up to the greater brook. she had discovered an island. notwithstanding that a fair wind blew in the offing. with every prospect of clearing Cape Pillar before it should shift. but on the thirteenth day of April. it seemed more than one's nerves could bear. a bit chilly in the morning. rolling up. and I did not dare to let her take a straight course. "mu y rico. as his Argentine cook said." cr ied I--"didn't you know that you couldn't climb a tree!" But the poor old Spray had essayed. and I had to speak about it. Now at last the Spray carried me free of Tierra del Fuego." which.hich he was interested. and where the water was. multiplied all about in so strange a manner that had I b een given to superstitious fears I should not have persisted in sailing on a thi rteenth day. Moreover. where it w as "muy rico. On the following morning. against my will. making good headway on a northwest course. If e only. One wave. for instance. for. I remained at the helm. for it was rough." The professor had three well-armed Argentines along in his camp to figh t savages. sea-gulls. though it was a wonder that they did not all die of rheumatic pains from living on wet ground. Difficulties. I could squa re away two points. April 14. of the many attempts to put to sea. Occasionally an old southwest sea. "Didn't you know. 1896. and the Spray. When I found myself. The wind freshened as the sun rose half-mast or more. soon sank these out of sight. and she was the wh olesomer under a press of sail. she weighed anchor from that port. And why should not one rejo ice also in the main chance coming so of itself? I shook out a reef. after a worthy literary friend whom I had met in strange by-places. she had on her voyage round the Horn sal ved a cargo of which she had not jettisoned a pound. by a close shav the beacon rock was done on the nothing new to The waves doffed their white caps beautifully to her in the strait that day b efore the southeast wind. though her boom actually hit s to leeward as she lugged on sail to clear the point. The thing 13th of April. however. "Hurrah for the Spray!" I shouted to seals. and set the whole jib. still she carried me clear. but did no harm. This brought the sea more on her quarter. so I thought. b ut I gave little thought to such things as these. and here she was out on the first of it. only the tops of the highest mountains we re in sight. I named it Alan Erric Island. humoring my vessel in the cross seas. or die of lockjaw. but she had cleared the great tide-race off Cape Pillar and the Evangelistas. softened later in the day. having sea-room. and to keep off when they came up abeam. before the change came. On the charts this one that she had s ailed around was traced as a point of land. as it always blows about Cape Horn. to meet them with what skill I could when they rolled up ahead. nearly everything else in the Strait of Magel lan. the outermost rocks of all. as discoverer. and I put up a sig n. Many of the in cidents were ludicrous. and she had weathered all the dangers of Cape Horn. disentangling the slo op's mast from the branches of a tree after she had drifted three times around a small island.

The blue hills of Juan Fernandez. all the world was again before me. A thousand emotions thrilled me when I saw the island. Rapid changes went on. where it fell calm and remained so all night. but it had moderated. quickly tur ned and pulled back for shore. and that I wished them to return. My " trick" at the wheel was now up. summer was ahead. I t washed over me at the helm. One of the party. delighted with their story. The wind was still southwest. I made them underst and by signs. albatrosses fell back and became scarcer and scarcer. and it was 5 p.e such as sailors call "fine-weather seas. and I saw her for the first time with a jigger s pread. but when John Shark hove in sight my sympathy flew to the winds. I judged that a light current was drifting the sloop from the land. or thirty hours. but got no an swer. They had all heard of the voyage of the Spray through the papers of V alparaiso. which was on the deck. high among the clouds. the land being very high. Soon after daylight I saw a boat putting out toward me." spoke English. I harpooned him and took out his ugly jaws. and the horizon was unbroken by land. The wind being light through the day. in things all about while she headed for the tropics. but it was the incident following a tri umph. On the tenth day from Cape Pillar a shark came along. lighter gulls came i n their stead. for I had no mind in the lonesome strait to take the life of any living thing. I had stood at the helm since eleven o'clock the morning before. that I was simply putting the piece in the cabin.m. after t he manner of trained seamen. it so happened that I picked up my gun. whom the rest called "king. All my troubles were now astern. that I did not intend to shoot. but the people in the boat. It is a fact that in Magellan I let pass many ducks that would have made a good stew. and realized that the ocean swell was still great. I had not till then felt inclined to take the life of any animal. seeing the piece in my hands. and I observed that they pulled with oars in oar-locks. appearances we re deceptive. though she seemed all night dangerously near the shore."-broke over the sloop fore and aft. for. could be seen about thirty miles off. and on the 26th of April. which sounded fainter and fainter through the night. for I sailed alone with God. but not without difficulty. A few days later the Spray was under full sail. The wind was even literally fair. those days. There were si x rowers in her. The vast o cean was again around me. and fired a gun. the others spok e Spanish. With what wind there was to fill her sails she stood close in to shore o n the northeast side. This was indeed a small incident. and so I knew they belonged to a civilized race. and roaring seas had t urned to gossiping waves that rippled and pattered against her sides as she roll ed among them. althou gh from the deck of my little ship it was apparently small. From Cape Pillar I steered for Juan Fernandez. and were hungry for news concerning it. fift een days out. which was about four miles distant. the last that swept over the Spray off Cape Horn. meaning only to put it below. made that historic island right ahead. As it pulled near. the first of its kind o n this part of the voyage to get into trouble. bu t their opinion of me must have been anything but flattering when they mistook m y purpose with the gun and pulled away with all their might. the Spray did not reach the island till night. and pecked for crumbs in the sloop's wake. From the cry of anim als in the hills. and soon the light disappeared altogether. and I b owed my head to the deck. We may mock the Oriental salaam. Wh en they understood my meaning they came back and were soon on board. New species of birds came ar ound. I heard the sea booming against the cliffs all night. They told me of a war between . but for my part I cou ld find no other way of expressing myself. Then was the time to uncover my head. I saw the tw inkling of a small light farther along in a cove. It seemed to wash away old regrets.

(This same report that Juan Ferna ndez had sunk was current in Australia when I arrived there three months later. and the experienced Portugues e mariner piloted her to a safe berth in the bay. The adults were mostly from the mainland of South America.--he was so dubbed . Juan Fernandez was then under the administration of a governor of Swedish nobi lity. and a goa t is but a lean beast.--thirty years. of which I saw a number. Although there was no doctor. I had just visited both countries. The hills are well wood ed. Blessed island of Juan Fernandez! Why Alexand er Selkirk ever left you was more than I could make out. before we reached the anchorage. The governor. so I was told. The others pulled away lustily with thei r oars. One lady the re. which I had not heard of when I was there. wh ile I was in Chile. which. Between buns and doughnuts there was little difference except in name. each dressed according to his own taste. their own island was sunk. CHAPTER XI The islanders at Juan Fernandez entertained with Yankee doughnuts--The beauties of Robinson Crusoe's realm--The mountain monument to Alexander Selkirk--Robinson Crusoe's cave--A stroll with the children of the island--Westward ho! with a fr iendly gale--A month's free sailing with the Southern Cross and the sun for guid es--Sighting the Marquesas--Experience in reckoning. . w ould be called a belle at Newport. I was also told that his daughter could ride the wildest go at on the island. Both had been fried in tallow. The people liv ed without the use of rum or beer of any sort. filled the Spray's sails. I sold a fterward to antiquarians for more than face-value. I brought away money of all denominations from the island. and with whirling it up and down he so rattled the Spray that I thought she wo uld never carry herself straight again. The king had been away once fo r a year or two. He had sailed in New Bedford whale-ships and had steered a boat. to make the best of it. was king only by courtesy. In this way I made a reasonab le profit. The king. the islanders stood up to and discussed with a will. and I told them that according to the latest reports.Chile and the Argentine. to place his children at school. with possibly a dog or two. So with a view to business I hook ed my steelyards to the boom at once. the people were all healthy. at the time of my visit. Juan Fernandez. is a lovely spot. ready to weigh out tallow. I did not charge a high price for what I sold. The Spray being secured. The man they called king took the helm . He was himself a Portuguese and a native o f the Azores. Having lived longer on the island than any other man in the world. after some words of civility. coming in before long. and pouring down through many ravines are streams of pu re water. There were about forty-five souls on the island a ll told. There are no serpents on the island. as the professor had done in the Strait of Magellan. and no wild beasts other than pig s and goats. and in Rio de Janeiro had married a Brazilian woman who followe d his fortunes to the far-off island. from Chile. and I was more than flattered when they did not slight my buns. and nearly all there was. af ter which they took the Spray in tow of their boat and made toward the island wi th her at the rate of a good three knots. taking her pay in tallow. There was not a police officer or a lawyer among them. the islanders returned to the coffee and doughnuts. The fashions of Paris did not affect the inhabitants. for there was nothing on the island fatter than a goat. the valleys fertile. there being no customs officer to say. "Why do you do so?" and before the sun went down the isl anders had learned the art of making buns and doughnuts. who made a flying-jib for the Spray. as a place of call.) I had already prepared a pot of coffee and a plate of doughnuts. where she was moored to a buoy abreast the settlement. which was the strong point in both. I soon learned. The sea-breeze . and th e children were all beautiful. The domestic economy of the island was simplicity itself. A ll this I learned. so far as I could find out. was away at Valparaiso with his family. and more too. some of them from the wreck of a galleon sunk in the bay no one knows when. but the ancient and curious coins I got in payment.

Both of these anchorages are exposed to north winds. 18 guns. made the hills ring with mirth at the sound of words in English. A. . and eight miles in width. The holding-ground being good in the fir st-named bay to the eastward. From a tablet fixed into the face of the rock I copied these word s.A large ship which had arrived some time before. M. Ships have anchored there. and no more pris oners are sent to the island. who lived on this island in complete solitude for four years and four months. and with some difficulty landed thro ugh the surf near the cave. they screamed with laughter. Cuthbert Hadden. if not the pleasantest on my whole voyage.M. however . but it affords a very indiff erent berth. We found quinces. MARINER. It takes very little to please children. are no longer in use. east and west. went out with me to gather wild fruits for the voyage. A number of caves in which the pri soners were kept. I visited Robinson Crusoe Bay in a boat. In front of this gorgeous entrance was a flag-mast all ataunto. and as the sea smashed her to pieces on the rocks. and the childr en gathered a basket of each. the islanders picked up the timbers and utilized them in t he construction of houses. peaches. A native of Largo. It is located in a beautiful nook sheltered by high mountains from all the severe s torms that sweep over the island. But when I told them that the cabra they pointed out was only a goat. Scotland. the delight of the king's old age. of which I gave them the English name. D. show s that the tablet is in error as to Selkirk's death. and these little ones. A.D. which are not many. wore a polished brass knocker on its only door. althou gh the undertow at times makes it wild riding. the anchorage there may be considered safe. 1899. never hearing a word in their lives except Spanish. The cave in which Selkirk dwelt while on the island is at the head of the bay now called Robinson Crusoe Bay. is about three hundred and forty miles. I found it dry and inhabitable. which I entered. damp. and near it a smart whale-boat painted red and blue. 96 tons. to which country it belon gs. Its distance from Chile. do not reach home with much violence. J. while the y picked till their baskets were full. Juan Fernandez was once a convict station. one and all. and rolled on the gras s in wild delight to think that a man had come to their island who would call a cabra a goat. They asked me the names of al l manner of things on the island. which was painted gree n. by Commodore Powell and the offi cers of H. "Figgies. 12th February. 1868. figgies!" they cried.D. its height is over three thousand feet. We came to a wild fig-tree loaded with fruit. after the fire was drowned.--but by no means because it was the last. A. was my last day on shore. It should be 1721] aged 47. Manuel Carroza by name. unwholesome dens. had been stranded a t the head of the bay. Topaze. I of course made a pilgrimage to the old lookout place at the top of the moun tain. and was taken off in the Duke. This tablet is erected near Selkirk's lookout. He was landed from the Cinq ue Ports galley. in the "Century Magazine" for July. pri vateer. which. inscribed in Arabic capitals: IN MEMORY OF ALEXANDER SELKIRK. for it lies near the limit s of the trade-wind regions. 1723. The house of the king of Juan Fernandez. He died Lieutenant of H. 1704.S. besides resembling the ark.--wh en the children of the little community. where Selkirk spent many days peering into the distance for the ship which came at last. which naturally presented a ship-like appearance. on fire. 1709. The island is abo ut fourteen miles in length. The pleasantest day I spent on the island. in the county of Fife. Weymouth. It is around a bold headland west of the presen t anchorage and landing. S. and figs. [ FOOTNOTE: Mr. being in latitude 35 1/2 degrees.

but on nothing sweeter than the adventure itself of a visit to th e home and to the very cave of Robinson Crusoe. Manuel Carroza and the good soul who followed him here from Brazil had laid away their only child. The wind then hauled day after day as it moderated. The greatest drawback I saw in the island was the want of a school. so much as a light in the binnacle. for a limited time. and made up for lost time. A class t here would necessarily be small. I heard water rus hing by. If I doubted my reckoning after a long time at sea I verified it by reading the clock aloft made by the Great Architect. sometimes two. I sailed with a free wind day after day. toward the Marquesas. I had not. and I said. Felix before she gained the trade-wi nds. could stand or sit and steer a vessel round the world: I d id better than that. There was no denying that the comical side of the strange life appeared. when they did come they came with a bang. sometimes one. The phenomena of ocean meteorology were interesting studies even here in the trade-winds. I had already found that it was not good to be al one. in the west. it was my ship on her course. I think. The sun. for these were tr ue. at the age of seven. but my books were alwa ys my friends. and stil l kept on sailing. All this indicated that gales were going on in the anti-trades. we all know. The sun every morning came up astern. I knew that all was well with "the hands" forward. while at the same time a heavy swell rolled up from the southwest. where I "ran down the l ongitude" for weeks. Nothing could be easier or more restful than m y voyage in the trade-winds. This is more or less the consta nt state of the winter trades in latitude 12 degrees S. The Southern Cro ss I saw every night abeam. she made on the forty-third day out. I observed that about every seven days the wind freshened and drew several points farther than usual from the direction of the pole. to find the sun already shining into my cabin. I was told. having feasted o n many things. My time was all taken up those days--not by standing at the h elm. till it stood again at the normal point. landed here to end days of sic kness and get into a sailors' heaven. the m . and so I made companionship with what there was around me. with only a thin plank between me and the depths. is the creator of the trade-winds and of the wind system over all the earth. I knew that no human hand was at the helm. it we nt round from east-southeast to south-southeast. the while. let fail all else.. however. for I sat and read my books. sailing as no other sh ip had ever sailed before in the world. The rushing water along her side told me that she was sailing at full speed. which seemed slow in reaching their limits. sometimes. and that there was no mutiny on board. I wished for no other compass to guide me. every evening it went down ahead. some marking the burial-place of native-born children. which. m ore than by slavish calculations. I think. marking the position of my ship on t he chart with considerable precision. In the same half-acre were other mounds among t he rough lava rocks. I aw oke. If the trades were tardy. no man. I sailed from Juan Fernandez. with a bone in her mouth. or cooked m y meals and ate them in peace. "How is t his?" But it was all right. and the Spray. 1896. a girl. but to some kind soul who loved teaching and qu ietude life on Juan Fernandez would. passing the island of St. For one whole month my vessel held her course true. in the little churchyard on the point. flew before a gale for a great many days. But ocean meteorology is. mended my clothes. east-southeast.The first child born on Juan Fernandez. sometimes with t he universe and sometimes with my own insignificant self. but this was done by intuition. that is. had become a beautiful wo man and was now a mother. From the island the Spray bore a way to the north. under reefs. some the resting-places of seamen from passing ships. On the morning of May 5. I think. be one of delight. and it was right.

clear-cut and lofty. and that in a few hours more I should see land . I think I have already stated that I kept my l ongitude. and the minutes of a day. put her many hundred miles west of my reckoning by account. The first set of sigh ts. I threw up my sextant for sights. and to know that you know them. and with my tin c lock fast asleep. I was en rapport now with my surroundings. I asked myself why. find the standard time of any given meridian on the earth. All navigators will tell you that from one day to another a ship may lose or gain more than fi ve miles in her sailing-account. This was wonderful. while at her utmost speed she marked with her ke el still slowly the sea that carried her. As one of the poo rest of American sailors. the mean result of these was about the s ame as that of the first set. and so it happened. for then I made the island of Nukahiva. b y their aid. A rotator log always towed astern. To find local time is a simpler matter. for I knew that it was something to stand on a great ship's deck and with two as sistants take lunar observations approximately near the truth. On the forty-third day from land. In about an hour's time I took another se t of observations with the utmost care. and was carried on a vast stream w here I felt the buoyancy of His hand who made all the worlds. Then I went in search of a discrepa ncy in the tables. so well known that astronomers compile tables of their positions through the years and the days. S lowly but surely the mark of my little ship's course on the track-chart reached out on the ocean and across it. cries out for the lead and the lookout. I sailed on with self-reliance unshaken.ost fascinating of all. this was extraordinary. The verified longitude when abreast was somewhere between the two reckonings. and I found it. both. and you realize the vastness of the sea. which the log never shows. will give you an easy mind on your voyage round the world. in the matter of lunars. just spoken of. From Juan Fernandez to the Marquesas I experienced six c hanges of these great palpitations of sea-winds and of the sea itself. I had not done at least better than this. even expert lunarians are considered as doing clever work when they average within eight mi les of the truth. if he be wise. but somehow I felt conf ident that both were nearly true. mostly by intuition. even under the most favorable circumstances. The ta bles being corrected. the southernmost o f the Marquesas group. but so much has to be allowed for currents and for drift. the effec t of far-off gales. I knew that this could not be correct. The difference between local and stan . that it is only an approximation. and it made the difference as already stated. What is true of this in the t rade-winds is much more so in the variables.--the sky being beautifully clear and the moon being "in distance" with the sun. where changes run more to extremes. even by chance though it may have been. I hope I am making it clear that I do not lay claim to cleverness or to slavi sh calculations in my reckonings. I found from the result of three observations. In the tables I found that the column of figu res from which I had got an important logarithm was in error. It was a matter I could prove beyond a doubt. and even then the master of the ship. Unique was my experience in nautical astronomy from the deck of the Spray--so much so that I feel justified in briefly telling it here. after long wrestling with lunar tables. I realized the mat hematical truth of their motions.--a l ong time to be at sea alone. with my boasted self-dependenc e. at least. The result of these observations naturally tickled my vanity. to be corrected by one's own judgm ent from data of a thousand voyages. otherwise you may tremble at the appearance of every cloud. that her l ongitude by observation agreed within five miles of that by dead-reckoning. wit h such precision that one coming along over the sea even five years later may. To know the laws that govern the winds. might be in error. To cross the Pacific Ocean. and again. I was proud of the little achievement alone on the slo op. after all. however. brin gs you for many days close to nature.

dard time is longitude expressed in time--four minutes, we all know, representin
g one degree. This, briefly, is the principle on which longitude is found indepe
ndent of chronometers. The work of the lunarian, though seldom practised in thes
e days of chronometers, is beautifully edifying, and there is nothing in the rea
lm of navigation that lifts one's heart up more in adoration.
CHAPTER XII
Seventy-two days without a port--Whales and birds--A peep into the Spray's galle
y--Flying-fish for breakfast--A welcome at Apia--A visit from Mrs. Robert Louis
Stevenson--At Vailima--Samoan hospitality--Arrested for fast riding--An amusing
merry-go-round--Teachers and pupils of Papauta College--At the mercy of sea-nymp
hs.
To be alone forty-three days would seem a long time, but in reality, even her
e, winged moments flew lightly by, and instead of my hauling in for Nukahiva, wh
ich I could have made as well as not, I kept on for Samoa, where I wished to mak
e my next landing. This occupied twenty-nine days more, making seventy-two days
in all. I was not distressed in any way during that time. There was no end of co
mpanionship; the very coral reefs kept me company, or gave me no time to feel lo
nely, which is the same thing, and there were many of them now in my course to S
amoa.
First among the incidents of the voyage from Juan Fernandez to Samoa (which w
ere not many) was a narrow escape from collision with a great whale that was abs
ent-mindedly plowing the ocean at night while I was below. The noise from his st
artled snort and the commotion he made in the sea, as he turned to clear my vess
el, brought me on deck in time to catch a wetting from the water he threw up wit
h his flukes. The monster was apparently frightened. He headed quickly for the e
ast; I kept on going west. Soon another whale passed, evidently a companion, fol
lowing in its wake. I saw no more on this part of the voyage, nor did I wish to.
Hungry sharks came about the vessel often when she neared islands or coral re
efs. I own to a satisfaction in shooting them as one would a tiger. Sharks, afte
r all, are the tigers of the sea. Nothing is more dreadful to the mind of a sail
or, I think, than a possible encounter with a hungry shark.
A number of birds were always about; occasionally one poised on the mast to l
ook the Spray over, wondering, perhaps, at her odd wings, for she now wore her F
uego mainsail, which, like Joseph's coat, was made of many pieces. Ships are les
s common on the Southern seas than formerly. I saw not one in the many days cros
sing the Pacific.
My diet on these long passages usually consisted of potatoes and salt cod and
biscuits, which I made two or three times a week. I had always plenty of coffee
, tea, sugar, and flour. I carried usually a good supply of potatoes, but before
reaching Samoa I had a mishap which left me destitute of this highly prized sai
lors' luxury. Through meeting at Juan Fernandez the Yankee Portuguese named Manu
el Carroza, who nearly traded me out of my boots, I ran out of potatoes in mid-o
cean, and was wretched thereafter. I prided myself on being something of a trade
r; but this Portuguese from the Azores by way of New Bedford, who gave me new po
tatoes for the older ones I had got from the Colombia, a bushel or more of the b
est, left me no ground for boasting. He wanted mine, he said, "for changee the s
eed." When I got to sea I found that his tubers were rank and unedible, and full
of fine yellow streaks of repulsive appearance. I tied the sack up and returned
to the few left of my old stock, thinking that maybe when I got right hungry th
e island potatoes would improve in flavor. Three weeks later I opened the bag ag
ain, and out flew millions of winged insects! Manuel's potatoes had all turned t
o moths. I tied them up quickly and threw all into the sea.
Manuel had a large crop of potatoes on hand, and as a hint to whalemen, who a

re always eager to buy vegetables, he wished me to report whales off the island
of Juan Fernandez, which I have already done, and big ones at that, but they wer
e a long way off.
Taking things by and large, as sailors say, I got on fairly well in the matte
r of provisions even on the long voyage across the Pacific. I found always some
small stores to help the fare of luxuries; what I lacked of fresh meat was made
up in fresh fish, at least while in the trade-winds, where flying-fish crossing
on the wing at night would hit the sails and fall on deck, sometimes two or thre
e of them, sometimes a dozen. Every morning except when the moon was large I got
a bountiful supply by merely picking them up from the lee scuppers. All tinned
meats went begging.
On the 16th of July, after considerable care and some skill and hard work, th
e Spray cast anchor at Apia, in the kingdom of Samoa, about noon. My vessel bein
g moored, I spread an awning, and instead of going at once on shore I sat under
it till late in the evening, listening with delight to the musical voices of the
Samoan men and women.
A canoe coming down the harbor, with three young women in it, rested her padd
les abreast the sloop. One of the fair crew, hailing with the naive salutation,
"Talofa lee" ("Love to you, chief"), asked:
"Schoon come Melike?"
"Love to you," I answered, and said, "Yes."
"You man come 'lone?"
Again I answered, "Yes."
"I don't believe that. You had other mans, and you eat 'em."
At this sally the others laughed. "What for you come long way?" they asked.
"To hear you ladies sing," I replied.
"Oh, talofa lee!" they all cried, and sang on. Their voices filled the air wi
th music that rolled across to the grove of tall palms on the other side of the
harbor and back. Soon after this six young men came down in the United States co
nsul-general's boat, singing in parts and beating time with their oars. In my in
terview with them I came off better than with the damsels in the canoe. They bor
e an invitation from General Churchill for me to come and dine at the consulate.
There was a lady's hand in things about the consulate at Samoa. Mrs. Churchill
picked the crew for the general's boat, and saw to it that they wore a smart uni
form and that they could sing the Samoan boatsong, which in the first week Mrs.
Churchill herself could sing like a native girl.
Next morning bright and early Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson came to the Spray a
nd invited me to Vailima the following day. I was of course thrilled when I foun
d myself, after so many days of adventure, face to face with this bright woman,
so lately the companion of the author who had delighted me on the voyage. The ki
ndly eyes, that looked me through and through, sparkled when we compared notes o
f adventure. I marveled at some of her experiences and escapes. She told me that
, along with her husband, she had voyaged in all manner of rickety craft among t
he islands of the Pacific, reflectively adding, "Our tastes were similar."
Following the subject of voyages, she gave me the four beautiful volumes of s
ailing directories for the Mediterranean, writing on the fly-leaf of the first:

To CAPTAIN SLOCUM. These volumes have been read and re-read many times by my
husband, and I am very sure that he would be pleased that they should be passed
on to the sort of seafaring man that he liked above all others. FANNY V. DE G. S
TEVENSON.
Mrs. Stevenson also gave me a great directory of the Indian Ocean. It was not
without a feeling of reverential awe that I received the books so nearly direct
from the hand of Tusitala, "who sleeps in the forest." Aolele, the Spray will c
herish your gift.
The novelist's stepson, Mr. Lloyd Osbourne, walked through the Vailima mansio
n with me and bade me write my letters at the old desk. I thought it would be pr
esumptuous to do that; it was sufficient for me to enter the hall on the floor o
f which the "Writer of Tales," according to the Samoan custom, was wont to sit.
Coming through the main street of Apia one day, with my hosts, all bound for
the Spray, Mrs. Stevenson on horseback, I walking by her side, and Mr. and Mrs.
Osbourne close in our wake on bicycles, at a sudden turn in the road we found ou
rselves mixed with a remarkable native procession, with a somewhat primitive ban
d of music, in front of us, while behind was a festival or a funeral, we could n
ot tell which. Several of the stoutest men carried bales and bundles on poles. S
ome were evidently bales of tapa-cloth. The burden of one set of poles, heavier
than the rest, however, was not so easily made out. My curiosity was whetted to
know whether it was a roast pig or something of a gruesome nature, and I inquire
d about it. "I don't know," said Mrs. Stevenson, "whether this is a wedding or a
funeral. Whatever it is, though, captain, our place seems to be at the head of
it."
The Spray being in the stream, we boarded her from the beach abreast, in the
little razeed Gloucester dory, which had been painted a smart green. Our combine
d weight loaded it gunwale to the water, and I was obliged to steer with great c
are to avoid swamping. The adventure pleased Mrs. Stevenson greatly, and as we p
addled along she sang, "They went to sea in a pea-green boat." I could understan
d her saying of her husband and herself, "Our tastes were similar."
As I sailed farther from the center of civilization I heard less and less of
what would and what would not pay. Mrs. Stevenson, in speaking of my voyage, did
not once ask me what I would make out of it. When I came to a Samoan village, t
he chief did not ask the price of gin, or say, "How much will you pay for roast
pig?" but, "Dollar, dollar," said he; "white man know only dollar."
"Never mind dollar. The tapo has prepared ava; let us drink and rejoice." The
tapo is the virgin hostess of the village; in this instance it was Taloa, daugh
ter of the chief. "Our taro is good; let us eat. On the tree there is fruit. Let
the day go by; why should we mourn over that? There are millions of days coming
. The breadfruit is yellow in the sun, and from the cloth-tree is Taloa's gown.
Our house, which is good, cost but the labor of building it, and there is no loc
k on the door."
While the days go thus in these Southern islands we at the North are struggli
ng for the bare necessities of life.
For food the islanders have only to put out their hand and take what nature h
as provided for them; if they plant a banana-tree, their only care afterward is
to see that too many trees do not grow. They have great reason to love their cou
ntry and to fear the white man's yoke, for once harnessed to the plow, their lif
e would no longer be a poem.
The chief of the village of Caini, who was a tall and dignified Tonga man, co
uld be approached only through an interpreter and talking man. It was perfectly

I grieve to say. being empty. I was supposed to toss a little of the beverage over my shoulder. and f ine women. adopted a vigorous foreign policy. it is wise to learn as soon as possible the manners and customs of these hospitable people. the interpreter told me. a sort of Queen of the May. To the unconventional mind the punctilious etiquette of Samoa is perhaps a li ttle painful. I might not pass it politely as we wo uld do. too. in want of laws which they could enforc e. I was instantly hailed by the chief's deputy. at which the chi ef showed a fine row of teeth and seemed pleased. and flesh. lead my nag by the bridle. and the other ta po girls. but my interpreter. all hands sitting in a circle upon mats. the least assuming of the men I met on the voyage. It was impossible to entertain on the Spray after the royal manner in which I had been received by the chief. This was considered a great stroke of legislative reform! It was the fashion of the native visitors to the Spray to come over the bows. brought presents of tapa-cloth and fruits. This. or pretend to d o so. but. but allowed me to pass on. where they could reach the head-gear and climb aboard with ease. he might have been taken for a great scholar or statesman." "Yack. and I was sincere when I told him that my reason for casting anchor in Samoa was to see their fine men." said Taloa. being on a most important mission. and so I again begged for pardon. who had so nearly learned to say yes in English. put me right. I was fortunate in my travels in the i slands. taxing it twenty-five per cent. she hitched a peg nearer. liberally translated. which another man might have regarded as coming late. I was no less taken with the chiefs eloquence than delighted w ith the simplicity of all he said. The deputy's hail. invariably a cocoanut-shell. brought a bottle of coco anut-oil for my hair. The chief of the Tongas and his family at Caini. "the tapo must sit nearer the capt ain. like my serv ant. and saw nothing to shake one's faith in native virtue.natural for him to inquire the object of my visit. and should not be detained. "Let the gods drink. Perceiving that I was in trouble. As for Taloa. but. a hog having been roasted whole. and on going a . For instance. I made signs for pardon. and s uiting the action to the word. fowl. returning my visit. who in an angry voice brought me to a halt. fishes. the princess. for the proprietors of the show. unceremoniously hustled them off for a new set. Taloa. however." and then drink it all myself. would also be a g rievous wrong. and the re presentatives of the three great powers. I was summoned to appear before a chief. two h ard-fisted countrymen of mine. pleading all this. through the greed of the proprietors it was becoming unpopular. being a wit as well as a bit of a rogue. About him there was nothing pompous. on the frantic steed! Kn ow you not that it is against the law to ride thus through the village of our fa thers?" I made what apologies I could. inspi red by a bit of good road. almost at the first spin." meaning theater. and meanwhile not to mistake for over-familiarity th at which is intended as honor to a guest. I knew I still deserved to be roasted. I found that in partaking of ava. on the gat e-money. which they called a "kee-kee. must needs break into a smart trot through a village. I set b efore them boiled salt pork and salt beef. I was not a little proud of my Tonga f riends." he added. fruits. but not until a long palaver had ensued. and in a spirit of j ustice they pulled off the horses' tails. there. My most grievous mistake while at the islands was made on a nag. though I did not know what offense I had committed. well. His fare had included all that the land could a fford. After a considerable pause the chief said: "The captain has come a long way to see so little. which. and say. the social bowl. the chief. My interpreter coming up. As for the the ater. and the dish. carried a portentous club. finest of them all. was: "Ahoy. and offered to dismount and. explained that I was myself something of a chief. a rocking-horse merr y-go-round. In my own behalf I could only say that I was a stranger. with which I was well supplied. but politely throw it twirling across the mats at the tapo. the safest thing to do. and i n the evening took them all to a new amusement in the town.

W---of New York." could hardly be called ne ws in 1898. Young is now the only survivor of the family. the father of the late Qu een Margaret. so that he could live on the fat of the land and not any longer b e called "Tin-of-salmon Malietoa" by graceless beach-combers. was towed around and around the Spray. a ge ntleman interested in missionary work. received the message himself. The modest natives wore lava-lava bathing-dresses. It was with pain that I saw in the newspapers a sensational account of her life and death. Young. who was Queen of Manua from 1891 to 1895. and they did no harm to the Spray. and b efore I could get my breath. was seized by a party of fair bathers. but without foundation in fact. he never got less than forty-fi ve dollars a month for the job. the king's brot her. and would have done so. "Queen Margaret of Manua is dead. Mr. CHAPTER XIII Samoan royalty--King Malietoa--Good-by to friends at Vailima--Leaving Fiji to th e south--Arrival at Newcastle. or whateve r else would serve the purpose. came in this ma nner to see me. Mr. They were all dressed in white. with royalty. Trood. I called on the king himself. was a young English lady. As my interpreter and I entered the front door of the palace. the last of them all. Mr." said they all. " which I had never heard before. "And now. and each wore a red rose. King Malietoa was a great ruler. never to return. he gave the damsel pieces of silver till the natives watching on shore yelled with envy. and this amount had latel y been raised. having been lost in an island trader which a few months before had sailed. And the startling head-lines saying. to give hi s remembrance to the king of the Cannibal Islands. who was viceroy. had it not been for th e holiday muslin. Her grandfather was an E nglish sailor who married a princess. and of course came in boats or canoes in the cold-climate style. a native cloth f rom the bark of the mulberry-tree. they sang "The Watch on the Rhine. whil e I sat in the bottom of it.shore to jump off the stern and swim away. "Was ever king ferried in such state?" Then. Mr. One of th e sprites. an old Eton boy. nothing could have been more delightf ully simple. Miss Schultze and Miss Moore. s uiting his action to the sentiment. and sat c owering by the door while I told my story to the king. by request of one of the teachers. came on board wi th their ninety-seven young women students. At Apia I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. as he told me himself. other islands of course being meant. As soon as they go t on deck. when I sailed. It was not uncommon at Apia to see a young woman swimming alongside a small c anoe with a passenger for the Spray." But I had no inclination to sail from Samoa so soon. the late Malietoa. In summerland Samoa their coming and going was only a merry every-day scene. the queen having then been dead three years. had charged me. My own canoe. One day the head teachers of Papauta College. but the good King Malietoa. three on a side. as it were. two of his children. wondering what they would do next. a small dugout. "let's up anchor and away. and he exclaimed. taken evidently from a paper in the supposed int erest of a benevolent society. Each could have swum as readily. A merrier bevy of girls it would be difficult to find. sneaked in through a taro-patch by the back way. one d ay when it had rolled over with me. Australia--The yachts of Sydney--A ducking on the Spray--Commodore Foy presents the sloop with a new suit of sails--On to Melbour ne--A shark that proved to be valuable--A change of course--The "Rain of Blood"-In Tasmania. I dare say. notwithstanding that his people have not eat en a missionary in a hundred years. almost. I remember. While hobnobbing. On leaving the Spra y these accomplished young women each seized a palm-branch or paddle. and I could not help myself. and seemed gre . But in this case there were six of them. Young was a C hristian gentleman. and literally paddled her own canoe. and his daughter Margaret was accomplished in graces that wo uld become any lady. who made more sport of it than any of the others. A.

I met Mrs. I swung her off free and sailed north of the Horn Islands. The Spray had barely cleared the islands when a sudden burst of the trades br ought her down to close reefs. Thence I sailed direct for New South Wales. were up to their knees in water in the saloon." and wished me to make his compliments in return. and coasted down the west sid e of the archipelago. Calling a few days later to say good-by to Faamu-Sami. nearer the coast of Australia . Then I said "Tof ah!" to my good friends of Samoa. also north of Fiji instead of south. and she reeled off one hundred and eighty-four mi les the first day. she stoo d out of the harbor August 20. "let us show the capt ain that we know something about the Cape Horn he passed in the Spray" at which a lad of nine or ten years stepped nimbly forward and read Basil Hall's fine des cription of the great cape. "Now. and which had grown to the height of sixty feet. Bell taught English to about a hundred native children. on her arrival reported it an awful storm. and in response we all clapped hands. and to inquiring friends said: "Oh. The captain of the Spray got nothing of th is sort. A sense of lon eliness seized upon me as the islands faded astern. Findi ng a rough sea. The bout being in hono r of the Spray. passing south of New Caledonia. I was not aware that the gale was extraordinary. where Mrs. and all wishing the Spray bon voyage. my memory rests first on the l ittle school just back of the London Missionary Society coffee-house and reading -rooms. boys and girls. after the custom of the country. A Triton horn was sounded to let us know when the beverage was ready. when. Brighter children you will not find anywhere. blown considerably out of her course. but having forgotten the Samoan for "Let the gods dri nk. Men were at work clearing the lan d. I had not sent my credentials ahead that the king might be in full regalia to receive me. and the butt of one made a s erviceable jib-boom on the homeward voyage. was conduc ted after the native fashion. I heard later. important among Samoans. I used them for spare spars. I saw King Malietoa f or the last time. and to one of them she gave an order to cut a couple of bamboo-trees for the Spray from a clump she had planted four years before. He afterward copied the essay for me in a clear hand. and soon reappeared in the full-dress uniform of the German commander-in-chief. my! we don't know what has become of the little sloop Spray. as I remembered a word in each. Of the landmarks in the pleasant town of Apia. and as a remedy for it I cro wded on sail for lovely Australia. a French mailsteamer from New Caledonia for Sydney. stupidly enough. where the steamship Cath . This ceremony." said Mrs. for. it was my turn first. mo stly of storms and gales. Calling to say good-by to my friends at Vailima. when I called one day. as I had intended. Emperor William himself." I repeated the equivalent in Russian and Chinook. I had then only to take ava with the family and be ready for sea. One particularly severe gale encountered near New Caledonia foundered the Ame rican clipper-ship Patrician farther south. She was under a g oose's wing mainsail. Again. to spill a little over my shoulder. and had had a dry deck while the passengers on the steamer . however. His Majesty then excused himse lf. and arrived at Newcastle after a passage of forty-two days. of which I counted forty miles of current in her favor. When their ship arrived at Sydney they gave the captain a purse of gold for his skill and seaman ship in bringing them safe into port. and went over the estate with her. but for l ong days in my dreams Vailima stood before the prow. Osbourne pronounced me a confirmed Samoan." The Spray was all right. the beautiful Faamu-Sami (a name signifyin g "To make the sea burn"). while I talked with his daughter. whereupon Mr. 1896. Stevenson in her Panama hat.atly pleased to hear so directly from the publishers of the "Missionary Review. In this gale I made the land about Seal Rocks. We saw her in the thick of the storm. children. Bell. and read it well. lying to like a duck. which was not a strange land to me. and continued on her course.

frequently by officers of H. O ctober 10. and so I say it seemed all the more embarrassing and strange that I should have caught at least one of the members. and so I coasted along toward Bass Strait in tha t direction. I t was the nearest to a casualty on the Spray in her whole course. In Sydney I saw all manner of craft. It had been decided by his club that the Spray could not be officiall y recognized. was soon out of sight. and being a short man.erton. and they were the f irst to meet me. But they were out for fun. Summer was approaching. she was flagship of the Johnstone's Bay Flying Squadron when the circumnavig ators of Sydney harbor sailed in their annual regatta. their reputation is known the world over. and--well. and with the assistance of a steamer carried my vessel to a safe berth. from the smart steam-launch and sailing-cutter to the smaller sloop and canoe pleasuring on the bay. I arrived at Newcastle in the teeth of a gale of wind. and it i s usually one not to be ashamed of. I f a boy in Australia has not the means to buy him a boat he builds one. which seemed to interest them. and rain could not dampen their feelings. with many lives. head and heels. too. for the reason that she brought no letters from yacht-clubs in Ame rica." and with more Australian sentiment than fastidiousness gave her credit for her record. the commander. for they carry sail like vikings. So me of them came down to the weather-beaten Spray and sailed round her at Shelcot e. 1896. I never saw it rain harder even in Australia. the first being the United States consul. and was visited by many agreeable people. when the Spray sailed from Sydney. Captain Fisher. Time flew fast those days in Australia. in the full uniform of a very great yacht club.1896. I was many hours off the r ocks. was lost a short time before. beating back and forth. They "recognized" the Spr ay as belonging to "a club of her own.M. It was a stormy season . All government dues were remitted. in Sydney. Orlando and their friends. Many visitors came on board. Mr. I came to in a snug cove near Manly for the night. Captain Cumming. My intention was now to sail around Cape Leeuwin direc t for Mauritius on my way home. with a party of you ng ladies from the city and gentlemen belonging to his ship. so far as I kn ow. the Sydney harbor police-b oat giving me a pluck into anchorage while they gathered data from an old scrapbook of mine. and it was December 6. Nothing escapes the vigilance of th e New South Wales police. and wearing a new suit. The government pilot. with brass buttons enough to sink him. But. but a capsize is not uncommon. Everybody owned a boat. Some one said they came to arrest me. Brown. Nothing was too goo d for the Spray here. let it go at t hat. a young gentleman of an other party on board. stepping quickly to get out of the wet. and the harbor of Sydney was blooming with yachts. and. tumbled hol us-bolus. came one day to pay me a visit in the midst of a deluge of rain. but weathered them at last. the handsome present of Commodore F oy. The young man having come on board with compliments made the mishap most emb arrassing. The typical Sydney boat is a handy sloop of great beam and enormous sail-carr ying power. however hard it poured. into a barrel of water I had been coopering. met me at the harbor bar. as ill luck would have it. where she took a berth for a few days. The Spray shed her Joseph's coat. and she made along the coast toward the harbor of Sydney. The Spray remained at the various watering-places in the great port for several weeks. S. They made a shrewd guess that I could give them some useful information. There was little to report on this part of the voyage. except changeable wind . and nearly drowned before he was rescued. the Fuego mainsail. in a barrel. At Sydney I was at once among friends. when I was not fishing for yachtsmen. where she arrived on the following day. and after I had rested a few days a port pilot with a tug carried her to sea again.

in this instance. taken in tow by the steam-tug Racer. and exchanged sig nals with the light-keepers while the Spray worked up under the island." From Cape Bundooro I passed by Cliff Island in Bass Strait. Tom Howard by name. with a fine coast wind. The li ghthouse on the cape dipped a flag to the Spray's flag. was brought into port. The wind for a few days was moderate. Kilda. was an exceptional day. and they spent most of their time here gathering fuel along shor e for a cruise on the grounds off Tasmania. parting company the morning they sailed. Nothing but whales interested the crew of th e gallant Mary. The captain of the Mary was a genius. It was taken in tow for Sydne y." and rough seas. with rather more than the amount of the Spray's tonnage dues a lready collected. ki lling the monster at a single thrust of a harpoon." and could hear them say. Whenever the word "whale" was mentio ned in the hearing of these men their eyes glistened with excitement. the master of the Mary. stood away like sea-bir ds each on its own course.70 tons. came on board and gave me directions for Waterloo Bay. near at hand. I saw festoons of evergreen in token of Christmas. listening to the wind outside. I squared the m atter by charging people sixpence each for coming on board. His crew. Then I hired a good Irishman. the Spray came in close under Wilson's Promont ory. As lu ck would have it. A few days later. with unusu al luck of fine weather. kept them alive one whole da y. The keeper of the light at that station. her exact gross being 12.--to . was a dead whale in no time. J. The 12th of December. Christmas day was spent at a berth in the river Yarrow. Clar k. and an Australian genius at that. till she poked her nose into the custom-house at Melbourne. finding good anchorage there in a sandy cov e protected from all westerly and northerly winds. the Spray made Melbourne Heads on the 22d of December. e xcept at Pernambuco. There we re only a few people all told on the shore. The collector exacted six shillings and sixpence. both on the land and in the sea. and the captain had told them that to kill a whale was no more than to kill a rabbit. Mr. the very first one they saw on their cruise. again seeking shelter. and smart. not one of them less than two feet in length. about three miles to l eeward. northeast. Our vessels. changed constantly. where she was charged tonnage dues. and the Mary of Sydney. and. and children on the balc onies of a cottage near the shore waved handkerchiefs as she passed by. however. The Spray early in the morning passed Tw ofold Bay and later Cape Bundooro in a smooth sea with land close aboard.s. Anchored here was the ketch Secret. visited abandoned miners' pits. but I lost little tim e in shifting to St. and that settled it. had not one of them seen a live whale when they shipped. "I wish you th e same.--who knew al l about sharks. "busters. and could talk about them. A slit of a knife let them out i n a canoe full of water. where they put it on exhibition. and when this busine ss got dull I caught a shark and charged them sixpence each to look at that. where I spent nearly a month. and prospected for gold ourselves. although an ugly humpback. from a sawmill up the coast. They believed him. a fisherman. The Spray paid no port charges in Australia or anywhere else on the voyage. We spent three days in the quiet cove. Meanwhi le Captain Young and I explored the shores. and carried a progeny of twenty-six . which. The wind howled that day while the sea broke over their rocky home. Captain Young. December 17. wishing them a "Merry Christmas. and. The shark was twelve feet six inches in length. taking off nothing for the fraction under thirteen tons. for which I bore up at once. a st eam ferry-boat fitted for whaling. but they were boatmen afte r an Australian's own heart. but the scene was a happy one. I saluted the merrym akers. sixpence a ton on the gro ss. In less than an hour from the time I heard of the ugly brute it was on deck a nd on exhibition.

it fell in such quantities that a bucketful was collected from the sl oop's awnings. and was rougher when she stood out. for St. The phenomena of dust-storms. When I found that I could not keep abreast of the questions I turned the responsibility over to him. Kilda was a watering-place--and the idea of a shark there! But my show went on." the first of the kind in ma ny years about Australia. The Spray was berthed on the beach at a small jetty at Launceston while the t ide driven in by the gale that brought her up the river was unusually high. Sailors no longer regard them with super stitious fear. The "blood" came from a fine brick-dust matter afloat in the air from the deserts.answer questions and lecture. unprotected on the booms. and besides it would give me the chance to put foot on the shores of Tasmania. are not uncommon on the coast of Africa. but owing to his over-stimulated enthusiasm. The rip off Port Phillip Heads. then. I should mention that while I was at Melbourne there occurred one of those ex traordinary storms sometimes called "rain of blood. put me in ample funds. well understood by scientists. For many a long day to come may be seen there the shark of St. which never fail. the curator of the Victoria Museum of Launceston. where I had been to deposit money early in the day. but our credulous brothers on the land cry out "Rain of blood!" a t the first splash of the awful mud. so much so that I considered it imprac ticable to pursue the course farther. but owi ng to a vast amount of ice drifting up from the Antarctic. the last of which I had disposed of to a Ger man soap-boiler at Samoa. stuffed with hay. and she lay there hard and fast. telling imaginary habits of the fish. 1897. her sails. as in the case of the one through which the Spray pa ssed in the earlier part of her voyage. flew in to a passion. A rain-storm setting in brought down this dust simp ly as mud. Therefore. to float her. Kilda shark along. and it was my wish t hat they should. round which I had sailed years before. It was a good show. Reaching some distance out over the sea. she made good weather immediately after passing it. Kilda. instead of thrashing round cold and stormy Cape Leeuwin. Kilda. I was obliged to l et Howard resign. January 24. January. In the summer months. and swept all papers containing mention of fish into the fire. Alas! the good but mistaken people of St. I carried the St. whic h is at the head of the Tamar. December. that is. was rough when the Spray entere d Hobson's Bay from the sea. got mud-stained fr om clue to earing. the people wished to see it. and sometimes Mar ch. found the Spray again in tow of the tug Racer. by way of the Great Barrier Reef. I found Howard in the midst of a very excited crowd. leaving Hobs on's Bay after a pleasant time in Melbourne and St. the route I finally decided on. and disposed o f it to Professor Porter. Returning from the bank. which were spread at the time. with sea-r oom and under sail. waiting for the season for favorable winds through Torres Strait . which had been protra cted by a succession of southwest winds that seemed never-ending. When the wind blew hard and I was obliged to furl awnings. Kilda. this was all changed now and emphasized with much bad weather. when the i llustrated journals with pictures of my shark reached their news-stands. they frequentl y cover the track of ships. the wind being fair and blo wing hard. February. I decided to spend a pleasanter and more profitable ti me in Tasmania. But. The income from the show and the proceeds of the tallow I had gathered in the Strait of Magellan. a wild place. It was o nly a few hours' sail to Tasmania across the strait. with not enough water around her at any time after to wet one's feet till she was ready to sail. the ground was . To sail this course would be taking advantage of anticyclones. east winds are prevalent through Bass Strait and round Cape Leeuwin.

cheerful crew. and finding people here i . which I visited in turn. Slocum the inclosed five-pound note as a token of her apprec iation of his bravery in crossing the wide seas on so small a boat. was at the gangway attending to visitors. Lord and Lady Hampden promised to rendezvous wi th me on board the Spray at the Paris Exposition in 1900. a brother and sister." From Beauty Point the Spray visited Georgetown. sight-seeing. February 1. on "ship's account. near which are Beaconsfield and the great Tas mania gold-mine. while the others. If any one of t he party was more interested than the governor himself. I believe. on returning to my vessel I found waiting for me the letter of sympathy which I subjoin: A lady sends Mr. marks the place where the first footpri nts were made by whites in Tasmania. I never returned without finding that the decks h ad been washed and that one of the children. the gov ernor's party seemed to know why it floated there. uninteresting rock be ing hoisted out of the mine there. anchored near the landin g-pier. and this I did befo re leaving Australia. sold marine curios such as were in the cargo. I could not refuse a thing so kindly meant. near the mouth of the river T amar." whichever it was. while I made journ eys among the hills and rested my bones. While there the governor of New South Wales. "Dangers of the seas excepted. I sailed to other ports in Tasmania. and people came a long way to hear them tell the story of the voyage. The season of fair weather around the north of Australia being yet a long way off. his daughter. of course. People told me there was gold in it. it was the Honorable Mar garet. and his fa mily came in on a steam-yacht. 1897. "If we live. for the coming voyage. and of the monsters of the deep "the captain had slain. The Spray. To this day I do not know who wrote it or to whom I am indebted for the gener ous gift it contained. I remember Beauty Point for its shady forest and for the road among the tall gum-trees. but promised myself to pass it on with interest at the first opportunity. In this snug place I left her in charge of three children. Lord Hampden. On leaving. and among the ferns I found wherever I went. and I added. and hundreds of stamps crushing it into powde r. and I believed what they said." or "Introduce th e captain to me. and when I heard his Excellency say. the first of these being Beauty Point. threw her bunting out. However. CHAPTER XIV A testimonial from a lady--Cruising round Tasmania--The skipper delivers his fir st lecture on the voyage--Abundant provisions-An inspection of the Spray for saf ety at Devonport--Again at Sydney--Northward bound for Torres Strait--An amateur shipwreck--Friends on the Australian coast--Perils of a coral sea. on the moss-cove red rocks at the gorge hard by. and all alon e. I found myself at once in the presence of a gentleman and a friend." I had only to keep myself away to be a hero of the first water. This little settlement. and it suited me very well to do so and to rusticate in the forests and among the st reams. I saw much gray. where it is fine the year round. My vessel was well taken care of. and all about the Spray. and one greatly interested in my voyage." they sai d. Considering that I had seen something of the world. my nearest neighbor's little girl f rom across the road. for my part. without human sympathy to help when danger threatened. though it never grew to be more than a haml et. "Introduce me to the captain. and probably a more insignificant craf t bearing the Stars and Stripes was never seen in those waters. All success to you.dug from under her keel." They were a bright.

The season of summer was then over. From the magistrate's house. and dear Mrs." said he. Aikenhead. supplied the Spray with jams and jellies of all sorts. From this snug little place I made sail for Devonport. a thriving place on th e river Mersey. The doctor gave me usef ul hints on lecturing. Soon after my first talk the kind doctor came to me with words of approval. put up bottles of raspberry wi ne for me. and the voice of the gobbler was heard. for she would have to sail through the Coral and Arafura seas before refitting again. she was saluted by the Jack both on coming in and on going out. farther up the harbor. and game were plentiful here. I was in the land of good cheer . and from P ardo." on the point. and was fort meeting a gentleman intent on preserving in art the beauties of his cou presented me with many reproductions from his collection of pictures. For the great distinction the Spray enjoyed many civilities while she rode comfortably at anchor in her port-duster awning that covered her from stem to stern. "Man. Powell sent on board chutney prepared "as we prepare it in India. but the Spray was the first vessel to bring the Stars and Stripes to the port. farther up the country. By another gentleman I was charged to tell the glories of Tasmania in every l and and on every occasion. and the more brain a man has the longer it takes him to get over the affliction. I weighed anchor Ap ril 16. it was th ere and then.nterested in adventure. a few hours' sail westward along the coast. and fast becoming th e most important port in Tasmania. the mistress of Malunnah. but no vacancies for a better post being open. If there was a moment in my voyage when I could have given it up. in my own behalf I think it only fair to say that I am not yet entirely cured. and of the domed forest-trees on the slopes. and again put to sea. I talked the matter over before my first audience in a l ittle hall by the country road. Everything was d one to fit her for all the known dangers. But it was not without regret that I l ooked forward to the day of sailing from a country of so many pleasant associati ons. M. a kind lady from Scotland." he added refl ectively. "great nervousness is only a sign of brain." However. that I filled awa y on this new course. but was found absolutely free from the destructive teredo. The owner of the hall. would take no rent. winter was rolling up from the south. This was Dr. At this point. L. however. but. The Spray was hauled out on the marine railway at Devonport and examined care fully top and bottom. a originals. of the natural ferner disappearing. C. To protect her further against the ravage of these i nsects the bottom was coated once more with copper paint. It was not without misgivings. Captain Murray. "Malunnah. by the case. A foretaste of winter wind sent the Spray flying rou nd Cape Howe and as far as Cape Bundooro farther along. told me. Mrs. I was helped out by the severe thumping it got. which she passed on the . People came from a great distance. the harbor-master. man. Large steamers enter there now and carry away great cargoes of farm produce. Wood. As in many other of my enterprises." Fish. and by a "Tommy Atkins" song f rom a strolling comedian. and s o it is written in the port records. A piano having been brought in from a neighbor's . more than ever before. to show to my friends. Mrs. and so my lecture from the start wa s a success. came an enormous cheese. and sound in all respects. I had gone about it at once and without second thought. and yet people inquire: " What did you live on? What did you eat?" I was ies then unate in ntry. prepared from the fruits of her own rich garden--enough to last all the way hom e and to spare. and I am free to say that it is only by the kindness of sy mpathetic audiences that my oratorical bark was held on even keel. wit h fair winds for the north.1897. "you will get over it. McCall. He lso many haunted by the beauty of the landscape all about. and the attendance all told netted the house about three pounds sterling.

But what yawing about she made of it when she cam e with a stranger at the helm! Her old friend the pilot of the Pinta would not h ave been guilty of such lubberly work. and anchored in Watson's Bay. b fine. R. It turned out. Bu t now. Orlando. I felt easy in mind. with something ov er for anxiety of mind. I was in a neighboring hotel then. or was forgotten. or to lie down and r est. Collishaw handed m e on the very next day the price of the lost anchor and chain. till finally my adventures are prosy and tame. the other end of her having hit the Spray. The weather was fine. which squar ed all accounts. was light and dead ahead. But to my great delight they got her into a berth. who sailed exactly over the route which I took from Ca pe Verde Islands or farther back to this point and beyond. we made the amount thirteen pounds. hardly equaled in any other part of the w orld. and had only that moment got a glance of just th e stern of a large. I had just finished reading some of the most interesting of the old voyages i . 1897. My old Christmas friends on Bund ooro seemed to be up and moving when I came the second time by their cape. after he clubbed his ship. for a few days after passing Port Stevens. in the end. with clear sky the rest of the passage to Port Jackson (Sydney). It was. Having a full set of admiralty sheet-charts of the coast and Barrier Reef. and sent her back again. and so remained for many days. and boded go od for the long voyage home from the antipodes. I remember that he offered me twelve pounds at once. The harbor from the heads to Parramat ta. retracing her course northward. which from the shock of t he collision had parted at the hawse. and w e exchanged signals again. Their hardships and romantic escapes--those of them who escaped death and worse sufferings--did not enter into my experience. lea ving this pleasant occupation merely to trim sails or tack. and the neuralgia left me then. but there was no comp arison so far as I had got. Captain Fisher. which was a great change the weather experienced here some months before. kept his word. in eight fathoms of water. with a polite note saying he would repair any damages done. with a good stock of books on board. up the river. indeed. like a true seaman. that no d amage was done beyond the loss of an anchor and chain. The captain of the s teamer. but my lucky number being thirteen. to learn that "bung" meant that a large steamship had run into her. and I d id not regret coming back to it now. took the Spray in tow up the harbor. Mr. A few days later the bay was flecked with tempestuous waves. while the sloop sailed along as before in a smooth se a and close to the shore. thoug h." I tumbled out quickly. I sailed again. and that it was the one of which I saw the ste rn. where it fell calm and then came up ahead. to her anchorage in the bay. was more than ever alive with boats and yachts of every class. I fell to reading day and night. who had steamed through the Barrier pas sages in H. a scene of animation. Seal Rocks. while the Spray nibbled at the miles. The wind. before a strong southwest wind. allantly on as far ut the weather was from the state of May 9. I tried to compare my state with that of old circumnavigators. but these points are photographed on my memory from the trial of beating round them some months before when bound the other way. This was a fine run. near the heads. however. sailin g all alone around the world.following day. and Cape Haw k. which sent the Spray g as Port Stevens. clear of all dangers. unmanageable steamship passing the range of my window as she forged in by the point. S. For me is left to tell only of pleasant experience s.. I had nothing at all to complain of. nursing a neuralgia wh ich I had picked up alongshore. and his agent. for the captain. M. in charge of an o fficer and three men. where the Spray arrived April 22. when the bell-boy burst into my room shouting that the Spray had "gone bung. advised me from the first to take this route.N. and none but sto ut ships carried sail.

"we'll go back to Newcastle. and on your lives. else you would have lost yourselves. dis tinguished for the enormous yachtsman's cap he wore. I would not on any account ra ce in the Coral Sea. It was a case of babes in the wood or butterflies at sea. No wonder she did so. Sta nding in for her. we didn't see the light. ostensibly for my hearing. so they said." This he sh outed very loud." cried the owner. "God is good. and nearly as stiff and immovable as a post in the ground.n woe-begone ships. Again I tried to persuade them to b e towed into the port of refuge so near at hand." they cried. They were bound for New Guinea. "What is your depth of water?" I asked." but I said: "Give me the end of a rope. wanted to race the poor old Spray to Thursday Island en route. and . was all duck trousers. on his maiden voyage. in a word." "We've lost our dinghy. and that she had run at once into t rouble. perhaps it was as well that three tenderfeet so tender as those never reached that destination. "Don't know. a nd would be the last place in which to look for a whale. poor fellow. was almost as dea f as a post." They purposed making for Newcastle under jury-sails." "No.] whaler before he took command of the Akbar." they cried. "Up anchor. besides that. on my own cruise. We sounded with the anch or. All the chain is out. too. I found that she was the cutter-yacht Akbar [Footnote: Akbar w as not her registered name. whom I had met before he sailed. and it was not thick. and was already near Port Macquarie. in sheer ignorance of a rational course. when I made out. May 13. was a Murrumbidgee [Footnot e: The Murrumbidgee is a small river winding among the mountains of Australia. It would have cost them only th e trouble of weighing their anchor and passing me a rope. but closer even than necessary. and I'll give you a lead. and let me tow you into Port Macquarie. "Report us. The trifling service proffered by the Spray would have saved their vessel. for their mainsail had b een blown to ribbons. We missed Newcastle on th e way coming. "If ever you get back. the captain. Her owner. on the ground of the unfairness of three young yachtsmen in a clipper against an old sailor a ll alone in a craft of coarse build. either. These th ree jolly tars comprised the crew. as I stood on--"report us with sails blown away. which had sailed from Watso n's Bay about three days ahead of the Spray." I u rged." "Send your dinghy over. anchored on the coast. t welve miles north of this. I declined the challenge. and I'll tow you into yon port farther along. a modern dandy craft in distress. None of them knew more about the sea or about a vessel than a newly born babe knows about another world. was a wreck." I shouted. "up anchor. and the navigating officer. The owner. "do not go back round Cape Hawk. naturally. "Spray ahoy!" they all hailed now. even the jigger had been blown away. for it's winter to the south of it. "What's the weather goin' t' be? Is it a-g oin' to blow? And don't you think we'd better go back t' r-r-refit?" I thought. I th ought. and her rigging flew at loose ends. The Akbar. of this I assured them ." and "Farewell" was all I could say. to the ear of the navigating officer. which need not be told]. don't refit. we lost our lead. but they declined even this.

when I reached Cooktown. after all. where I found this news: May 31. except at rare intervals. and out of humane reasons I do so again. the yacht Akbar. after saying beautiful things about the sea." I promised I would rep ort them. It is often wild enough in one part or another. he knew the meaning of his song. and a change it was fro m the heaving of the misnamed "Pacific" Ocean. The Spray was now in a protected sea and smooth water. lately heir to a few hundred pounds. and did so at the first opportunity. The propos ed voyage to New Guinea was to look that island over with a view to its purchase . as the sloop came abreast of their island. to which I could say. had the money with him. Alm ost mad with doubt. For answer I tried them with the Stars and Stripes at the peak. Down came their signals at once. lo st at Crescent Head. The Pacific is perhaps. was signaled from Danger Point. So it took them several days to lose the yacht. after all." w hich at that very moment I was having. I once knew a writer who. After speaking the distressed Akbar and the Sherman. picked up the trade-winds. on the Endeavor River. but did ever poet behold a grea t light flash up before his path on a dark night in the midst of a coral sea? If so. and these winds followed he r now for many thousands of miles. It was about eighteen days before I heard of the Akbar again. and reported the yacht in distress and that it would be an act of humanity to tow her somewhere away from her exposed position on an open coast." On the following day the Spray rounded Great Sandy Cape. upon the whole. three hands on board. the fir st she had dipped her keel into since leaving Gibraltar. "Excalibur!" cried "all hands. May 19 the Spray. for they as ked if "all hands" were well. I grasped the helm to throw her head off shore. a dreary stone heap in the ocean just off the coast of New South Wales. the Spray was at once in the fairway leading north . never ceasing to blow from a moderate gale to a mild summer breeze. "Wishing you a pleasant voyage. from Sydney for New Guinea. Poets have sung of beacon-light and of pharos. That she did not get a tow from the steamer was from no lack of funds to pay the bill. no more boisterous than other oceans. The Spray had sailed for hours in suspense. and h e became a changed man.that we don't care a dash and are not afraid. "What vessel is that?" they asked. though I feel quite safe in saying that it is not more pacific except in name. the crew saved. for th e owner. would be the poetry of the sea wer . On the following day I spoke the steamship Sherman. which was on the 31st of May. "Yes. for they asked no more questions. which they dipped hear tily. in latitude 30 degrees 12' south. which stands on an island as a sentinel at the gateway of the Barrier Reef. and up went the British ensign instead. evidently stemming a current. passed through a Pacific hurricane. and. I understood from this that they made out my vessel and knew all about her . passing the Tweed River." and again "Farewell. wh ere those on shore seemed most anxious about the state of my health. passing from this to Lady Elliott Light. They didn't even ask if the "voyage would pa y." "Then there is no hope for you. But where. when blazing out of the sea was the light ahead. and sailed on. the voyage for many days was uneventful save in the pleasant incident on May 16 of a chat by signal with the people on South Solitary Island. bound down the coast . what is a notab le event in every voyage." and rejoice d." but they threw out this friendly message. From the pitch of the cape was a noble light seen twenty-seven miles.

" in the one the day before the affair came off. which was al l the same to the editor. Besides this. magistrate. Mr. 1897. land commissioner. for the scenery far astern was varied and ch arming. the sloop. It was quiet in Bowen when the Spray arrived. and ha d only an oil-lamp in it. and the good people with an hour to throw away on the second evening of her arrival came down to the School of Arts to talk about the voyage. the two Hubs in the cart-wheels of creation. it being the latest event. when he came to the door of the little hotel where my prospective audience and I were dining. night or day. Indeed. On this parallel of latitude is the high rid . and the Spray anchored in the evening at Port Denison. but coral rocks are always rough trusted now to the mercies of the Maker of all reefs. Bird Island--An American pearl-fisherman--Jubilee at Thursday Is land--A new ensign for the Spray--Booby Island--Across the Indian Ocean--Christm as Island. Myles was a good talker. Sunday Island. On the 24th of May. However. and that night sailed thro ugh among the islands. gold warden. except to embarras s me with a sense of vain ostentation and embitter my life. but this he r efused to do. till she reached Cooktown. CHAPTER XV Arrival at Port Denison. and dangerous. I keeping a good lookout at last here was the Spray in the midst of a sea of coral called smooth indeed. spacious and safe. The harbor was easy of approach. I knew them all by name now. and introduced me. having made one hundred and ten miles a day from Danger Point. But I could have keelhauled the wretch. "Boomerang" and "Nully Nully. was wretched." as the "Boomerang" afterward said . on the Endeavor River. however. I may explain that it was a talk illustrated by stereopticon. now entered Whitsunday Pass. before a furious blast of wind encountered t hat day fifty miles down the coast.. and made no s top at all. it was the same to me. I sailed early the next morning before the papers came out. Queensland--A lecture--Reminiscences of Captain Cook--L ecturing for charity at Cooktown--A happy escape from a coral reef--Home Island. and with his clattering bell and fiendish yell made noises th at would awake the dead. The views were good. circulars were distributed with a flourish. harbor-master. so I learned afterward. but the lantern. and afforded excellent ho lding-ground. w as chairman. Lo! the Barrier Reef and the waters of many colors studded all about with enc hanted islands! I behold among them after all many safe harbors. on a hill. The sea itself might be . where rests. Myles. for what reason I never knew. the same time for perils on every hand. The country all about here had a healthful appearance. May 31. all over the voyage of the Spray from "Boston to Bowen. a thirty-shilling affair. wher e she arrived Monday. and in the other the day after. They each appeared with a favorable column. and. When the sun rose next morning I looked back and regrette d having gone by while it was dark. I tried to i nduce him to go on and tell the story while I showed the pictures. From Port Denison the sloop ran before the constant trade-wind. and the "best bellm an" in Australia was employed.e there no wild waves? At . for Heaven knows I h ad met every person in town the first hour ashore. sharp. On the morning of the 26th Gloucester Island was close aboard. for that matter. and they all knew me. else my vision is astray. bell and all. thinking it best to do so. Mr. of what they call ed a lecture. etc. the sweet littl e town of Bowen. It was duly advertised in the two little papers. the future watering place and health-resort of Queensland. and they had a kind word for the bellman b esides.

Tacking inside of all the craft in port. The skilled officer of the royal navy who advised me to take th e Barrier Reef passage wrote me that H. and so I didn't see the place till I came back on the Spra y thirty-one years later. Judge Chester. The young lady seemed to lean to my way of thinking. which about Cooktown amount often to a hard g ale. Said he: "Captain Cook wasn't murder ed 'ere at all. too. and following up the story of the historic al voyage. the way through the Ba rrier Beef Channel. the Endeavor. from Batavia for Sydney. I could see no reason why Capt ain Cook. Besides that.ge and backbone of the tradewinds. as I always thought. I had hoped. hove down for repairs on her memorable voyage arou nd the world. for I was now on a seaman's consecra ted ground. in all sincerity. to be sure. he volunteered to supply it. but that I. "T he Spray came flying into port like a bird. but a bright school-boy c oming along relieved my embarrassment. was clearer than a highway in a busy city. everybody talked. Well. This took my breath. destitute and dying. a nd they made a roaring success of it. of t he lady's gift to me at Tasmania. and next morning went ashore to feast my eyes on th e very stones the great navigator had seen. w ith a fair wind. M. The sympathy of all went out to these sufferers. Accordingly the little Pr esbyterian church on the hill was opened for a conversation. and to feel my way over the ground. which I had promised myself I would keep only as a loan. Confidentially. of getting the sloop under way every morning was finishe d. "and it seemed strange. that I had invested the money." said the longshore daily papers of Cooktown the morning after she arrived. I moored her at sunset nearly abreas t the Captain Cook monument. Ho wever. and nobody ever said that he hadn't a dredger along. I had been charged to navigate the route with extra care. when she cleared the Strait of Magellan. and a young lady present. and "incidentally" to land mails. and how the c rew of the Spray fared when illness got aboard of her. On her sick-list was my fevered self. But there seemed a question in Cooktown's mind as to the exact spot where his ship. very flatteringly asked my opinion. seeing that informati on was wanted. The hard work. and in the clear weather of that season. the good Cooktown people wished to hear a story of the sea. but found now. He would have been a hardened wretch who could look on and not try to do something for them. like all boys. the magistrate. And now I saw coming into port the physical wrecks of miners from New Guinea. for. put in at Cooktown for scurv y-grass. remaining on the land. couldn't have dredge d out a channel to the place where the monument now stood. Orlando steamed nights as well as days through it." Here I was reminded of distressful days gone by. beware of reefs day or night. S. I think it was in 1866 that the old steamship Soushay. 'e was killed in Hafrica: a lion et 'im. under sail. for Captain Cook could do 'mos t anything. ma'am. be wary still. to my embarrassment. and she was in haste to find a perch before dark. asked if I had visited the point farther down the harbor where the gr eat circumnavigator was murdered. "th at only one man could be seen on board working the craft. But to any one contemplating the voyage I would say. or. Some said it was not at all at the place where the monument now st ood. it would have been no easy matter finding anchorage every nig ht. but the little town was alre ady straitened from a long run on its benevolence. the best of admiralty charts made it possible to keep on sailing night and day. Many had died on the way and had be en buried at sea. and afterward fill it up again. Indeed. if he had a dredgingmachine with him. A discussion of the subject was going on one morning where I happened to be . turning to me as one of some authority in nautical m atters. was at the . I thought of the matter. and by all odds less dangerous. for it was near night. if he made up his mind to repair his ship inland." The Spray was doing h er best." they added. would jeopardize my vessel on coral ree fs if I undertook to do so.

"I annexed th e blooming lot of it. which was one of the pleasant est on God's earth. It happened in this way. Arrived at a very inviting anchorage about sundown. came to anchor in a cove in the mainland. was an America n. the Spray p assed Home Island. the Spray. the next point ahead. not wishing to make Bird Island. except at Port De nison and at Endeavor River. was still my lucky number. This was the only time throughout th e passage of the Barrier Reef Channel that the Spray anchored. June 9. he at once came on board to clasp ha nds. Well. . for an instant. groping her way in the dark and making the night dismal with her own black smoke. at daylight. slim fish that leaped on board in the night was found on deck this mo rning. bound for this island. This done. distant two and a half miles. A strong current was pressing the sloop f orward. b ut that was so much the better. which I considered near enough. with sheets off. I saw the ugly boulders under the sloop's keel as she flashed over them. w hen. was th e thirteenth one in our alphabet. I came to. going at full speed. and with one more bound on a swel l cut across the shoal point so quickly that I hardly knew how it was done. her master. which was at anchor. where I expected to see a beacon. Accordingly. "While I was about it. as I might have done easily under the lee of a coral reef.1897. and Captain Jones. which it resembled in every respect. At 7:30 P. however (the 8th) . with dangers about them. and squared a way on a westerly course. The Spray. A great number of fisher-birds were about this day. now through the pass. A short time later she fell in with a steamer bound so uth. shortened sail. the wind being still fresh and the islands being low. Skipping along now. called the Tarawa. for I am rather fond of fresh herring. I was now indebted to the miners of Cooktown for the great privilege of adding a mite to a worthy cause.M. from M Reef I steered outside of the adjacent islands.head of the gam. however. anyway. He it was who annexed the islan d of New Guinea to Great Britain. she hit the M Reef itself on the nort h end. dancing over the waves. entered Albany Pass as th e sun drew low in the west over the hills of Australia. The matter standing so. But this gave her a fine departure for Cape Greenville. for t he night. and certainly it didn't much matter then whether I saw it or not. and I was advised to give them the go-by. From Home Island I made for Sunday Island. The natives of Cape Greenville are notoriously bad. I hadn't time to look for it aft er she struck." There was a ring in the statement pleasant to the ear of an old voyager. Wednesday . However. the 7th. and left the light dipping astern. 1897. her captain from the deck of his vessel directing me to a berth. farther along. near a pearl-fis herman. soon after midnight. T he Spray had just passed M Reef light-ship. and bringing that abeam. that I had not anchored before dark. headi ng away for the north as before. I didn't see it. off the pitch of the cape. The Tarawa was a Californian. at least. before daylight. and to Judge Chester all the town was indebted for a general good time. except that it was three times as long." said he. and so it was bound to succeed. for which the reef was named. and that thirteen. abreast the Claremont light-ship. as noted years before. I had it for breakfast. I sailed on June 6. On the very night following this. the Germans made such a row over the judge's mainsail h aul that they got a share in the venture. wi th a rag of sail set. and I made a mental note of it that the letter M. to be on the safe side. The beacon wasn't there. A long. I regretted keenly. The spry chap was no larger around than a herring . Bird Island was dead ahead. I did not shorten sail too soon in the night! The first and only Austral ian canoe seen on the voyage was encountered here standing from the mainland. She swung off quickly on her heel.

the professor's daughter. for Jones was the heart-yarn of a sailor. m aking a fine figure. Mrs. sorting shells on deck. this tarry was imperative. resident magis trate. Some were rigged and painte d like birds and beasts. Douglas. After a pleasant chat and good-by to the people of the Tarawa. spectacular. and cousin to the b eautiful Faamu-Sami ("To make the sea burn"). Mr. The two days over were. Being the only American representat ive in port. "guessed" they would." Meanwhile I spent pleasant days about the island. Jardine was the niece of King Malietoa. Speaking to Mr. the instrum ents (save the mark!) being bits of wood. The friends came. I observed that on the day of the jubilee no foreign flag was waving in the p ublic grounds except the Stars and Stripes. Here the Spray remained over until June 24. in which the emu and kangaroo were well represented. for "coming up. still more ill favored. Some had the human skeleton painted on their bodies . It took place at night. This being a scientific expedition in charge of Professor Mason Bailey. who visited the Spray at Apia. though. Mr. and the performers. near by. accumulating the comforts of life. accompanied the expedition. where I got a glimpse of botany. Captain Jone s himself. and saucer-like bones. invited me on a cruise in his steamer one day among the islands in Torres Strait. as sailors say. Miss Bailey. where I arrived shortly after noon. Strangely enough. stockman. The ma te "guessed" so. a how ling success. spear in hand. and floated in many places. With his little family about him. and to Mr. danced or leaped about before a blazing fire. and Mrs. On e fellow leaped like a frog. They were probably the best he had. Jardine. The warrior aborigines that I saw in Queensland were for the most part lithe and fairly well built. we rambled over Friday and Saturday islands. as even the second mate and cook had "gu essed" they would. and we do not consider the Stars and Stripes a foreign flag. being such good guessers. ready to strike down som e imaginary enemy. I again weighed anchor and stood across for Thursday Island. and hideous . mid-channel in Torres Strait. vocal and instrumental. They were Mr. which they beat one against the other. and their women were. for when they do a thing o n Thursday Island they do it with a roar. The corroboree was. but they were stamped always with repulsive features. the most perfect ones I ever saw. The 22d was the great day on Thursday Island. the only American aboard. would pay us all a visit. He assured me that if I would re main a few hours longer some friends from Somerset. I ventured a remark on this compliment to my countr y. and hoisted the Jack as well as her own noble flag as high as she could. for then we had not only the ju bilee. . making a dull sound. too. Mr. was never heard to guess at all. and one of the crew." said he. he was content to live in this remote place. Jardine was himself a fine specimen of a Scotsman. famous throughout the land. for on the 22d was the Queen's diamond j ubilee. from the tiniest to the standard si ze. "Oh. Douglas. b oy Jim and all. which along with the Union Jack guar ded the gateway. All kept time to music.On the following morning Captain Jones brought on board two pairs of exquisit e pearl shells. held in the palm of the hands. while they jumped about threateningly. but a jubilee with a grand corroboree in it. It was a show at once amusing. The kangaroo hopped and danced with natural ease and grace. if possible. painted in fantastic c olors. which they knocked togeth er. and his family. now in plain view." The Spray of course flew her best bunting. Jardine. at any rate. botanist. The fact of the Tarawa having been built in America accounted for the crew. "this is a family affair. and told me of many indigenous plants with long names. Douglas having brought s ome four hundred native warriors and their wives and children across from the ma inland to give the celebration the true native touch.

where for days she sailed in water milky whit e and green and purple. returning. The stout ship I then commanded encountered only fierce hurric anes. where the sea became deep. indeed. with the request that the first homeward-bound ship w ould carry them along and see to their mailing. the advantage being that in the dark nights I witnessed the pho sphorescent light effect at night in its greatest splendor. and the beautiful uncertainty of the fate of letters le ft there is a thing of the past. It was not that I feared them more. well fitted in every way. I had been off that cape once in July. In the days of serene weather there was not much to do but to read and take r . Some of the letters brought back by our boat were directed to New Bedford. and her wake was a path of fire. but only once. on which I was "hove-down" in a fever. atoll islands. The trade-wind was still blowing fresh. Taking a departure from Booby Island. and was sailing on a smooth sea as steadily as before. The stores were landed in safety. and regular packet communication wit h the rest of the world. and some to Fairhaven. and set it as a spi nnaker from the stoutest bamboo that Mrs. and the boat. The Spray had now passed nearly all the dangers of the Coral Sea and Torr es Strait. the slo op was at once in the Arafura Sea. were not a few.On June 24 the Spray. There is a light to-day on Booby Island. if not beyond that. so that by its light I could see the small est articles on deck. a good man. and she bore them ill. Had I died for it. where it was shallow. where the water is blue. but in the summer they are less frequent and do not continue so long. On the 25th of June the sloop was already clear of all the shoals and dangers . It was my good fortune to enter the sea on the last quar ter of the moon. most of them left by whalemen. down the Indian Ocean. of course. sent a boat to the cave with his contribution t o the general store. the Spray mended her pace. they disappeared. not one was ever seen. which. Smaller birds were seen flying in the opposite direc tion. I decided to sight Timor on the way. As the sloop sailed farther on. which the sloop passed early in the day. Captain Airy of the Soushay. midwinter there. Sailing on. sea -snakes writhed about on the surface and tumbled over and over in the waves. I had no wish to arrive off the Cape of Good Hope before midsummer. and it wa s now early winter. Massachusetts. which had been the custom of thi s strange postal service for many years. Stevenson had given me at Samoa. seemed all ablaze. In those days passing ships landed s tores in a cave on the island for shipwrecked and distressed wayfarers. Mr. however. When she steamed a long this way I was well enough to crawl on deck to look at Booby Island. but that I prefer red fine weather in any case. an island of high mountains. but with speed somewhat slackened. In the ocean. The sea. I got out the flying-jib made at Juan Fernandez. and cou ld be safely counted on now down to the coast of Madagascar. Douglas gave her a flag as she was leaving his i sland. exchanged signals with the keeper of the light. and the bamboo holding its own. I would have seen that island. Several pigeons flying across to-day from Australia toward the islands bent t heir course over the Spray. In the part of the Arafura that I came to first. which was. distant twenty-seven hundred miles. Booby Island I had seen before. I made no call at the little island. for it was still early in the season. The s pinnaker pulled like a sodger. sailed for the long voyage ah ead. being in the Spray instead of a large ship. And so with time enough before me to admi t of a run ashore on the islands en route. I wished for no winter gales now. brought back from the improvised post-office there a dozen or more letters. and that was when in the steamship Soushay. where the s loop disturbed it. and all ahead from this point was plai n sailing and a straight course. It is true that one may encounter heavy gales off the Cape of Good Hope at any season of the year. but standi ng close in. I shaped the course now for Keeling C ocos.

as true as a hair. and see Christmas Island. When we arrived at Hong-Kong there was a letter in the ship's mail for me .--and this may have happened. and for current. terror of us ordinaries in the ship. when all is told: First of all. But the greatest science was in reckoning the longitude. My tin clock and only timepiece had by this time lost its minute-hand. Christmas Island. rolling up. now took himself very humbly to leeward altog ether. On the following day I saw Dana Island. "Go aloft there. at noon. but after I boil ed her she told the hours. there the island was in sight from the royal-yard. Before night it was abeam and distant two and a half miles. michingly. where I cou . but I remember my tempo rary admiration for the captain of the ship I was then in. On the 11th.Longitude as per mark on t he chart. Captain M----had thus made a great hit. when he sang out one morning from the quarter-deck. When we got to the ship he gave it to the first mate. not even to an ordinary seam an. was a flying-fish on deck. as per guess. motionless on the sea. about noon. If she deviated at all from that. The chief mate.. strangely enough. the Tawfore. there was a nostril. and that was near enough on a long stretch.1 20 " Add for current 10 " -------. On the log at noon is 130 miles Subtract correction for slip 10 " --------. came into view one point on the starboard bow. with all sail set and with the spinnaker still abroad.est on the Spray. in the morning. and he laid it. There wasn't much brain-work in that log. For several days now the Spray sailed west on the parallel of 10 degrees 25' S. June 27 makes a better sh owing.--she was back. with a pair of eyes. later in. off. on the capstan-head. I'm sure. for example: June 26. 133 miles on the log. and to forestall the Cape of Good Hope by a stor e of ease. The surface of the island appear ed evenly rounded from the sea to a considerable height in the center. about equal--let it go at that. Latitude by observation at noon. fragrant of the spices or what not of the coast. at the same latitude. not far off. 10 degrees 25' S. I was in the boat with the captain some hours while he had it. indeed. lifelike and real. broke against the sides. to-day. well aft. It seemed to have the proportions of a whale. In outlin e it was as smooth as a fish. My sea journal was now much the same from day to day-something like t his of June 26 and 27." Sure enough. the first mate gave it to the second mate.130 " Latitude by observation at noon. which was a blow-hole through a ledge of rock where every wave that dashed threw up a shaft of water. where it lay like a monster asleep. On the 2d of July the great island of Timor was in view away to the nor'ard. It had been a long time since I last saw this island. even. to make up as much as possible for the rough time off Cape Hor n. and a long ocean swell. one of ye . walking never to windward of the captain. But do you supp ose he could hand a letter to a seaman? No. and a breeze came up from t he land at night. For slip. through the day or nigh t. on. and he never got over it. it is a bit squally. fried it in butter. 10 degrees 23' S. the day blowing a ste ady breeze. which was not yet forgotten. and as the sloop sailed along its side to th e part where the head would be.

My reckoning was up. George Ross. He arrived at the island on the 17 . Mr. for on that course I made the Keeling Islands right ahead. had been so finished as this. The tern is called by the islanders the "pilot of Keeling Cocos. The distance run was twenty-seven hundred miles as the crow flies. After some little delay. the property of Captain Joshua Slocum. too k the helm. Yo u couldn't have beaten it in the navy! Then I trimmed her sails by the wind. presented a s ight never to be forgotten. through Governor Ky nnersley of Singapore. I steered higher to windward. some hundred miles southwest of Christmas Island. July 21. allowing twenty miles a day while this went on. On the 12th. No part of the voyage up to this point. including the time occupied in beating into Keeling harbor. I didn't touch the helm. accompanied by the doctor and another officer. to Joseph Chamberlain. it thrilled me as an electric shock might have done. and five to six from east to west. I sat on deck and gave way to my emotions. the white sand shores and the whiter gaps where breakers appeared. with the white crests of the waves fla shing tinder a brilliant sun.M. July 17. trembli ng under the strangest sensations. the gaps bet ween which were to the south undiscernible. now purple. I just lashed th e helm and let her go. This would have been a fair Atlantic voyage." Farther on I came among a great number of birds fishing. still. and springing aloft. tak ing it by and large.. and. A winter gale was going on in the direction of the Cape of Good Hop e. and then took itself off westward with a businesslike air in its wing . I slid down the mast. which w eakened now for a few days. I expected to see this. Leach. and flogged her up the couple of miles or so abreast the harbor land ing. Andrew J. It was a delightful sail! During th ose twenty-three days I had not spent altogether more than three hours at the he lm. 1897. where I cast anchor at 3:30 P. hauled up for cleaning. and now green.1897. twenty-three days from Thur sday Island... it was all the sa me: she always sailed on her course. To folks in a parlor on shore this may seem we ak indeed.70 tons gross. while a swell heavier than usual set in also from th e southwest. I saw anti-tra de clouds flying up from the southwest very high over the regular winds. but I am telling the story of a voyage alone. n ow of the bluest sky-blue. Accordingly. The first unmistakable sign of the land was a visit one morning from a white tern that fluttered very knowingly about t he vessel. for with the current and heave of the sea the sloop found herself at the end of the run absolutely in the fairway of the channel. we found. said concernin g the Iphegenia's visit to the atoll: "As we left the ocean depths of deepest bl ue and entered the coral circle. the lagoon itself. the Spray of Boston. and it was not too much. transparent to a depth of over thirty feet. came off to meet us. The brilliant colors of the waters. To the Keeling Cocos Islands was now only five hundred and fifty miles. palm-clad islands. I saw from half-way up the mast c ocoanut-trees standing out of the water ahead. but e ven in this short run it was necessary to be extremely careful in keeping a true course else I would miss the atoll. Sidney Ross. and fighting over whatever they cau ght. the encircling . and soon after. a yawl of 12.ld get it. lastly. for change of current. reporting. and not able to resist the impulse.. CHAPTER XVI A call for careful navigation--Three hours' steering in twenty-three days--Arriv al at the Keeling Cocos Islands--A curious chapter of social history--A welcome from the children of the islands--Cleaning and painting the Spray on the beach-A Mohammedan blessing for a pot of jam--Keeling as a paradise--A risky adventure in a small boat--Away to Rodriguez--Taken for Antichrist--The governor calms th e fears of the people--A lecture--A convent in the hills. the eldest son of Mr. Colonial Secretary. we went ashore. seven or eight mi les across from north to south. the contrast was most remarkable. etc. [Footnote: Mr. whether the wind was abeam or dead aft." "On reaching the landing-stage.

through the Strait of Magellan to the Society through the Torres Strait to Thursday Island. began at once the invasion of the new kingdom to take possession of it. or by an ill-starred ship cast away." The Keeling Cocos Islands. Even a rock once drifted to Kee ling. who meanwhile had marked the little atoll as a sort of Eden for a seraglio of Malay women which he moved over from the coast of Africa. They have been visited occasionally by the floating spar of some hurrican e-swept ship. Captain Boss returned two years later with his wife and family and his mother-in-law. he confined his wives in a castle .. retreating little by little before Ross and his sturdy cre w. crossed to Gibraltar. then in the service of the East India Company. This extraordinary solit years ago single-handed. will be a continuous island. w ith only one man to command them. N. burning with indignation. R. their first notable vi sitor was Captain John Clunis-Boss. He and Ross did not get on well as neighbors. like Bluebeard." and might have lived well in London. Mrs. w ho freighted Hare and his crowd of women to the islands. On his previous visit. is seldom visited. nothing loath. He tried to compromis e with rum and other luxuries. and his sailors. Boss had nailed the English Jack to a mast on Horsburg Island. and finally by man. It was Boss's own brother. The South Keelings are a strange little world. as if he had come to stay. I follow the ac counts gathered from the old captain's grandsons and from records on the spot. or by a tree that has drifted all the way from Australia. passed Islands. and ] from Thursday Island. The islands were too small and too near for characters so widely different." In reply to which the captai n. who in 1814 touched in the ship Borneo on a voyage to India. After two years shreds of it still fluttered in the wind. but he had been governor of a wild colony in Borneo. twenty-three days out ary traveler left Boston some two sailed down to Cape Horn. After the discovery of the islands by Captain Keeling. and the longitudes of 96 d egrees 51' and 96 degrees 58' E. which is the skeleton of what some day. lie between t he latitudes of 11 degrees 50' and 12 degrees 12' S. don't you know that rum and roast pig are not a sailor's heaven?" Hare said afterward that one might have heard th e captain's roar across to Java. not knowing of Captain John's plans to occupy the little world. according to Admiral Fitzroy. till at last he found himself and his harem on the little island known to thi s day as Prison Island. Hare was now dismayed.] From this time on Hare had a hard time of it. saying: "Dear Ross: I thought when I sent rum and roast pig to your sailor s that they would stay away from my flower-garden. The channel between the islands was narrow. Andrew's celebration on the island. "Ahoy. one of the group. The force of forty women. [Footnote: In the accounts given in Findlay's "Sailing Direct ory" of some of the events there is a chronological discrepancy.th of July. where. Hare had "oceans of money. oddly enough. shouted from the center of the island.. The lawless establishment was soon broken up by the women deserting Prison Is . with a romantic history all thei r own. dashed off a note to him. and could not confine himself t o the tame life that prosy civilization affords. Dymoke. but found there already one Alexander Hare. They were discovered in 1608-9 by Captain Willi am Keeling. according to the history of coral reefs. thence to Australia. and eight sailor-artisans. and no longer on speaking terms with the captain. consumed w ith rage. where he sto od. on Prison Island! You Hare. And so he hung on to the atoll with his forty women. Hare. On the day following the first St. women and all. held fast among the roots of a tree. there. and the ei ght Scotch sailors wore long boots. And so Hare was there with his outfit. the water was not deep. however. but these things only made matters worse. The southern group co nsists of seven or eight islands and islets on the atoll. and is of no importance. North Keeling has no harbor. was not equal to driving eight sturdy sailors back into the sea. to take possessio n of the islands.

for a pot of jam. They found the Spray hauled ashore and tied to a cocoanut-tree. But it was now accepted that I was not the returned spirit of the lost black. If there is a paradise on this earth it is Keeling. and say. "Dingin" ("It's cold" ). This being so or not. and the governor's great hall was filled with people. Ross. after I had be en "boot-topping" the sloop with a composition of coal-tar and other stuff. the children all clapped their hands and cried that a kpeting (crab) was h olding her by the keel. Thenceforth they regarded me as a hero . for the Bosses have always treate d the islanders as their own family. Hare then went to Batavia. with the luxury of blackberry jam. of which Keeling Cocos was a dependency. as the children ran away yelling: "The cap tain is eating coal-tar! The captain is eating coal-tar!" But they soon found ou t that this same "coal-tar" was very good to eat. and then a yell and a stampede. to hear complaints and try case s by law. and all the officers who could leave their ship came ashore.The ship she would not go. and returned in the sloop. and little Ophelia. "Come!" they would shy off for the nearest house. of all ages and sizes. should ask Mohammed to bless the voyage and make the crab l et go the sloop's keel. jalan?") "Will you come along?" one would answer. Justice Andrew J. for here were two ships in port." explained Mr. Everybody on the island came. and they hinted to one another that he might have been changed from black to whi te. a great man-of-war and the Spray. but. But at the Keeling Islands there had not been a grievance to complain of since the day that Hare migrated. it was decided that the Mohammedan priest.M. when I tried to haul the sloop and found her fast in the sand. with Mr. I heard them whisper. On the 22d of July arrived H.The keel was held by a great kpeting. "Chut-chut!" meaning that a shark had bitt en my hand. and that I had brought a quant ity of it. Instead of a lawsuit a dance was got up. All that cou . "Are you walking?" ("Jalan. child. For some time every movement I made was closely w atched.land and putting themselves under Ross's protection. "The children have all come to welcome you. or "Ujan" ("It's going to rain"). young or old. For a long time after I arrived the children regarded the "one-man ship" with suspicion and fear. if any there were to try. on a circuit of inspection among the Straits Settl ements. My first impression upon landing was that the crime of infanticide had not re ached the islands of Keeling Cocos. which it did. as they mustered at the jetty by hundreds. and she floated on the ver y next tide. rain or shine. I heard a commo tion. o ld and young. Sama the Emi m. when I held out my hand and said. In their mus ical voices they would say. and I had not fingers enough for the little bright-eyed tots that wanted to cl ing to them and follow me about. For. where he met his death. They were particularly interested in what I ate. and while I was taking my dinner. and I had plenty of friends about the island. A native man had been blown away to sea many years before. The people of this country were all rather shy. One day after this. yeo ho! The cable onl y came in twain. Before this. One day when I was spreading a sea-biscuit thick with it for a wide-a wake youngster. ten or twelve years of age. but something had to be done. if it had hold.S. There was not a case for a lawyer. One day. Leech and court officers on board. which they observed was lame. to tell the strangest thi ng. Iphegenia. they n ever passed one or saw one passing their door without a salutation. wrote in the Spray's log-book: A hundred men with might and mainOn the windlass hove.

content to look on. dogs catch fish. thirty of them taking the place of three tons of cement ballast. No benevolent society h as ever done so much for any islanders as the noble Captain Ross. and the hum of the band-saw and the ring of the anvil were heard from morning till night. let go its hold. and sailed round the whole world with out so nearly meeting a fatality as on that trip across a lagoon. and a l ean and hungry negro--well. and the Spray washed heavily when hauled on the wind. The tridacna were afterward procured in a safe boat. I say. while the babies lay in heaps in the corners of the room. found in the bayou near by. The first Scotch settlers left there the strength of Northern blood and the inheritance of steady habits. By great good fortune. however. Plying thi s as a paddle with the utmost energy. Out of sight. the kpeting. perhaps trusted all to me. with its thousand soul s. where crabs sh eat coral. weak mortal that he was. It is needless to say that I took n o more such chances. as sinless in their lives as perhaps it is possible for frail mortals to be. with not so much as a drop of water in the boat. fi are dangerous man branches. she cl eared the flashing reefs. but from carelessly neglecting to look after t he details of a trip across the harbor in a boat. Besides cleverly climbing the trees. men ride on turtles. and this blew away in mid-chann el in a squall. to be sure. spoke of "these singular though small islands. and she swung out to sea under all sail. and which brought the sea abeam. Admiral Fitzroy of the Beagle. one quarter south. however. I found myself with a thoughtless African negro in a ri ckety bateau that was fitted with a rotten sail. T he true course for the island was west by south. and man My vessel being refitted. where we could touch bottom and push her ashore. and by the merest accidental flaw in the w ind to favor us. I ha ve since completed a course over them all. who have followed his example of industry and thrift. while we drifted. "We won't go h ome till morning. but I steered considerably to the windward of t hat to allow for the heave of the sea and other leeward effects." adding that the greater part of the sea-fowl roost on y rats make their nests in the tops of palm-trees. and he. but not enough rope to tie a cat. I came near losing "the crew of the Spray"--not from putting my f oot in a man-trap shell. or whatever else it was that held the sloop in the islands. and the dist ance was nineteen hundred miles. I was dismayed to see. where we should have be en incontinently lost. By far the best workmanship in b oat-building I saw on the voyage was here. The women at the Keelings do not do all the drudgery. there was a pole. thr ee thousand miles away. within sight o f the village. Long before dark Keeling Cocos. The sea was rugged. who visited here. the nearest coast to leeward. It would cheer the heart of a Fuegian woman to see the Keeling lord of creation up a cocoanut-tree. With Africa. things are revers eat cocoanuts. which I threw overboa rd to make room and give buoyancy. And right here." And we did not. I had sailed over oceans. My sloop on thi . as in many places visit ed on the voyage. that there was not a paddle or an oar in the boat! Th ere was an anchor. whi ch course I took for the island of Rodriguez. heading agai n for home. Many finished mechanics dwelt under t he palms at Keeling. However that may be. and his sons. where I truste d all to some one else. except in my strongest affec tion. the crew of the Spray in a little while would have been hard to find. Mounting one or two heavy rollers on the fringe of the atoll. On August 22. that sent us drifting helplessly to sea. was left out of sight.ld get on their feet danced. the m en of Keeling build exquisitely modeled canoes. For m usic two fiddles screeched over and over again the good old tune. and we were alr eady in deep water. cast the lot as one might. With the whole ocean before us to leeward. the trap of a boat was worked into shoal water. where many ed. astern. My little friend Ophelia danced with the judge. I decided to load her with the famous mammoth trida ena shell of Keeling. and shells -traps.

at least." are the ones. and wi th only one man aboard. On the first evening asho re. and their example induced others to come also. and did not come out while I wa s on the island. a few days before. while t he other clouds floated on. surrounded by spark ling wit. weather-beaten appearance there. And behold. had been telling his people about the coming of Antichrist. in the land of napkins and cut glass. and I hauled in now close on the wind for that. from this time on." . far out in the In dian Ocean. two out of the four blades of the rotator were crushed or bent. who wr eck the most ships and lose the most lives. but there could be no mistaking this: it was the high i sland of Rodriguez. the building of a boat for them like the o ne belonging to the Spray. they cried. a nd I felt better for it. made for her house and locked herself in. it is he. all alone. and "know it all like a book. while improbabilities were clothed as hard facts. If one thing was clearer than another in her voyage. a black object appeared where I had seen the resting clouds. and. and made securely fast to a pier in Rodriguez. My first day at this Land of Promise was to me like a fairy-tale. For many da ys I had studied the charts and counted the time of my arrival at this spot. came down immediately to see what it was all about. A pilot ca me out to take me into the inner harbor. looking upon it as the ter minus of the last long run. which by the fifteenth day out from Keeling amounted to one hundred a nd fifty miles between the rotator and the mental calculations I had kept of wha t she should have gone. here was the sloop. the news went flying through the place. I saw before me still the ghosts of he mpen towels and of mugs with handles knocked off. and so I kept an eye lifting for land. but came on board at the jetty. I lay down to rest and to think. By midnight. When she heard that I was actuall y coming up the street she barricaded her doors. I could see about sundown this day a bunch of clouds that stood in one spot. as one might his entrance to the Islands of the Blessed. I naturally tired of the neve r-ending motion of the sea. It was a curious thing that at all of the islands some reality was insisted o n as unreal. and so it happene d here that the good abbe. and when they saw the Spray sail into the harbor. I have observed. "where is your lamp? My fisherman's lantern. The officers who are over-sure. and dining with the governor of the island! "Aladdin. It w as still a long way off. which I was now towing more from habit than from necessity. made irksome by the want of many things with which. It wore a hard. Governor Roberts and his family did not share the fears of their people. as the sl oop sailed on.s course ran under reefed sails for days together. but there was a good port to leeward. of the wetting I got whenever I show ed myself on deck. though at the same time I always s tood ready to give her the benefit of even the least doubt. and run all standing upon the beach. namely. coming in contact with some large fish. By daylight the island was abeam. however. Under these heavy weather conditions the Spray seemed to lag behind on her course. when she heard of my adv ent." I cried. which was reached through a narrow chan nel among coral reefs. The governor's you ng boys took charge of the Spray's dinghy at once. which I got at Gloucester. The governor of the is land. The cause of the discrepancy in the log was one often met with. besides great hospitality to me. above all. I hauled in the patent log. for I had learned the Spray and her ways long before this. a rrived. a period of eight days. as I might have been. and my visit cost his Excelle ncy. all feather-white before a gale of wind. here was I in a bright hall. Roberts. and he has come in a boat!" which I say would have been the most improbable way of his comi ng. the work probably of a shark. I attributed to these conditions a discrepancy i n the log. has shown me b etter things than your smoky old burner ever revealed. Being sure of the sloop's position. "May the Lord help us. The windward side was uninviting. it was that she coul d be trusted to come out right and in safety. Mr. Instead of tossing on the sea. about three miles awa y. where the sloo p was berthed. like land adrift. right ahead. One elderly woman. this was a sign of something. I could keep well supplied. for the l ittle town was in a great commotion. Nevertheless.

The second day in port was spent in receiving visitors. Mrs. Roberts and her
children came first to "shake hands," they said, "with the Spray." No one was no
w afraid to come on board except the poor old woman, who still maintained that t
he Spray had Antichrist in the hold, if, indeed, he had not already gone ashore.
The governor entertained that evening, and kindly invited the "destroyer of the
world" to speak for himself. This he did, elaborating most effusively on the da
ngers of the sea (which, after the manner of many of our frailest mortals, he wo
uld have had smooth had he made it); also by contrivances of light and darkness
he exhibited on the wall pictures of the places and countries visited on the voy
age (nothing like the countries, however, that he would have made), and of the p
eople seen, savage and other, frequently groaning, "Wicked world! Wicked world!"
When this was finished his Excellency the governor, speaking words of thankfuln
ess, distributed pieces of gold.
On the following day I accompanied his Excellency and family on a visit to Sa
n Gabriel, which was up the country among the hills. The good abbe of San Gabrie
l entertained us all royally at the convent, and we remained his guests until th
e following day. As I was leaving his place, the abbe said, "Captain, I embrace
you, and of whatever religion you may be, my wish is that you succeed in making
your voyage, and that our Saviour the Christ be always with you!" To this good m
an's words I could only say, "My dear abbe, had all religionists been so liberal
there would have been less bloodshed in the world."
At Rodriguez one may now find every convenience for filling pure and wholesom
e water in any quantity, Governor Roberts having built a reservoir in the hills,
above the village, and laid pipes to the jetty, where, at the time of my visit,
there were five and a half feet at high tide. In former years well-water was us
ed, and more or less sickness occurred from it. Beef may be had in any quantity
on the island, and at a moderate price. Sweet potatoes were plentiful and cheap;
the large sack of them that I bought there for about four shillings kept unusua
lly well. I simply stored them in the sloop's dry hold. Of fruits, pomegranates
were most plentiful; for two shillings I obtained a large sack of them, as many
as a donkey could pack from the orchard, which, by the way, was planted by natur
e herself.
CHAPTER XVII
A clean bill of health at Mauritius--Sailing the voyage over again in the operahouse--A newly discovered plant named in honor of the Spray's skipper--A party o
f young ladies out for a sail--A bivouac on deck--A warm reception at Durban--A
friendly cross-examination by Henry M. Stanley--Three wise Boers seek proof of t
he flatness of the earth--Leaving South Africa.
On the 16th of September, after eight restful days at Rodriguez, the mid-ocea
n land of plenty, I set sail, and on the 19th arrived at Mauritius, anchoring at
quarantine about noon. The sloop was towed in later on the same day by the doct
or's launch, after he was satisfied that I had mustered all the crew for inspect
ion. Of this he seemed in doubt until he examined the papers, which called for a
crew of one all told from port to port, throughout the voyage. Then finding tha
t I had been well enough to come thus far alone, he gave me pratique without fur
ther ado. There was still another official visit for the Spray to pass farther i
n the harbor. The governor of Rodriguez, who had most kindly given me, besides a
regular mail, private letters of introduction to friends, told me I should meet
, first of all, Mr. Jenkins of the postal service, a good man. "How do you do, M
r. Jenkins?" cried I, as his boat swung alongside. "You don't know me," he said.
"Why not?" I replied. "From where is the sloop?" "From around the world," I aga
in replied, very solemnly. "And alone?" "Yes; why not?" "And you know me?" "Thre
e thousand years ago," cried I, "when you and I had a warmer job than we have no
w" (even this was hot). "You were then Jenkinson, but if you have changed your n
ame I don't blame you for that." Mr. Jenkins, forbearing soul, entered into the
spirit of the jest, which served the Spray a good turn, for on the strength of t

his tale it got out that if any one should go on board after dark the devil woul
d get him at once. And so I could leave the Spray without the fear of her being
robbed at night. The cabin, to be sure, was broken into, but it was done in dayl
ight, and the thieves got no more than a box of smoked herrings before "Tom" Led
son, one of the port officials, caught them red-handed, as it were, and sent the
m to jail. This was discouraging to pilferers, for they feared Ledson more than
they feared Satan himself. Even Mamode Hajee Ayoob, who was the day-watchman on
board,--till an empty box fell over in the cabin and frightened him out of his w
its,--could not be hired to watch nights, or even till the sun went down. "Sahib
," he cried, "there is no need of it," and what he said was perfectly true.
At Mauritius, where I drew a long breath, the Spray rested her wings, it bein
g the season of fine weather. The hardships of the voyage, if there had been any
, were now computed by officers of experience as nine tenths finished, and yet s
omehow I could not forget that the United States was still a long way off.
The kind people of Mauritius, to make me richer and happier, rigged up the op
era-house, which they had named the "Ship Pantai." [Footnote: Guinea-hen] All de
cks and no bottom was this ship, but she was as stiff as a church. They gave me
free use of it while I talked over the Spray's adventures. His Honor the mayor i
ntroduced me to his Excellency the governor from the poop-deck of the Pantai. In
this way I was also introduced again to our good consul, General John P. Campbe
ll, who had already introduced me to his Excellency, I was becoming well acquain
ted, and was in for it now to sail the voyage over again. How I got through the
story I hardly know. It was a hot night, and I could have choked the tailor who
made the coat I wore for this occasion. The kind governor saw that I had done my
part trying to rig like a man ashore, and he invited me to Government House at
Reduit, where I found myself among friends.
It was winter still off stormy Cape of Good Hope, but the storms might whistl
e there. I determined to see it out in milder Mauritius, visiting Rose Hill, Cur
ipepe, and other places on the island. I spent a day with the elder Mr. Roberts,
father of Governor Roberts of Rodriguez, and with his friends the Very Reverend
Fathers O'Loughlin and McCarthy. Returning to the Spray by way of the great flo
wer conservatory near Moka, the proprietor, having only that morning discovered
a new and hardy plant, to my great honor named it "Slocum," which he said Latini
zed it at once, saving him some trouble on the twist of a word; and the good bot
anist seemed pleased that I had come. How different things are in different coun
tries! In Boston, Massachusetts, at that time, a gentleman, so I was told, paid
thirty thousand dollars to have a flower named after his wife, and it was not a
big flower either, while "Slocum," which came without the asking, was bigger tha
n a mangel-wurzel!
I was royally entertained at Moka, as well as at Reduit and other places--onc
e by seven young ladies, to whom I spoke of my inability to return their hospita
lity except in my own poor way of taking them on a sail in the sloop. "The very
thing! The very thing!" they all cried. "Then please name the time," I said, as
meek as Moses. "To-morrow!" they all cried. "And, aunty, we may go, mayn't we, a
nd we'll be real good for a whole week afterward, aunty! Say yes, aunty dear!" A
ll this after saying "To-morrow"; for girls in Mauritius are, after all, the sam
e as our girls in America; and their dear aunt said "Me, too" about the same as
any really good aunt might say in my own country.
I was then in a quandary, it having recurred to me that on the very "to-morro
w" I was to dine with the harbor-master, Captain Wilson. However, I said to myse
lf, "The Spray will run out quickly into rough seas; these young ladies will hav
e mal de mer and a good time, and I'll get in early enough to be at the dinner,
after all." But not a bit of it. We sailed almost out of sight of Mauritius, and
they just stood up and laughed at seas tumbling aboard, while I was at the helm
making the worst weather of it I could, and spinning yarns to the aunt about se

a-serpents and whales. But she, dear lady, when I had finished with stories of m
onsters, only hinted at a basket of provisions they had brought along, enough to
last a week, for I had told them about my wretched steward.
The more the Spray tried to make these young ladies seasick, the more they al
l clapped their hands and said, "How lovely it is!" and "How beautifully she ski
ms over the sea!" and "How beautiful our island appears from the distance!" and
they still cried, "Go on!" We were fifteen miles or more at sea before they ceas
ed the eager cry, "Go on!" Then the sloop swung round, I still hoping to be back
to Port Louis in time to keep my appointment. The Spray reached the island quic
kly, and flew along the coast fast enough; but I made a mistake in steering alon
g the coast on the way home, for as we came abreast of Tombo Bay it enchanted my
crew. "Oh, let's anchor here!" they cried. To this no sailor in the world would
have said nay. The sloop came to anchor, ten minutes later, as they wished, and
a young man on the cliff abreast, waving his hat, cried, "Vive la Spray!" My pa
ssengers said, "Aunty, mayn't we have a swim in the surf along the shore?" Just
then the harbor-master's launch hove in sight, coming out to meet us; but it was
too late to get the sloop into Port Louis that night. The launch was in time, h
owever, to land my fair crew for a swim; but they were determined not to desert
the ship. Meanwhile I prepared a roof for the night on deck with the sails, and
a Bengali man-servant arranged the evening meal. That night the Spray rode in To
mbo Bay with her precious freight. Next morning bright and early, even before th
e stars were gone, I awoke to hear praying on deck.
The port officers' launch reappeared later in the morning, this time with Cap
tain Wilson himself on board, to try his luck in getting the Spray into port, fo
r he had heard of our predicament. It was worth something to hear a friend tell
afterward how earnestly the good harbor-master of Mauritius said, "I'll find the
Spray and I'll get her into port." A merry crew he discovered on her. They coul
d hoist sails like old tars, and could trim them, too. They could tell all about
the ship's "hoods," and one should have seen them clap a bonnet on the jib. Lik
e the deepest of deep-water sailors, they could heave the lead, and--as I hope t
o see Mauritius again!--any of them could have put the sloop in stays. No ship e
ver had a fairer crew.
The voyage was the event of Port Louis; such a thing as young ladies sailing
about the harbor, even, was almost unheard of before.
While at Mauritius the Spray was tendered the use of the military dock free o
f charge, and was thoroughly refitted by the port authorities. My sincere gratit
ude is also due other friends for many things needful for the voyage put on boar
d, including bags of sugar from some of the famous old plantations.
The favorable season now set in, and thus well equipped, on the 26th of Octob
er, the Spray put to sea. As I sailed before a light wind the island receded slo
wly, and on the following day I could still see the Puce Mountain near Moka. The
Spray arrived next day off Galets, Reunion, and a pilot came out and spoke her.
I handed him a Mauritius paper and continued on my voyage; for rollers were run
ning heavily at the time, and it was not practicable to make a landing. From Reu
nion I shaped a course direct for Cape St. Mary, Madagascar.
The sloop was now drawing near the limits of the trade-wind, and the strong b
reeze that had carried her with free sheets the many thousands of miles from San
dy Cape, Australia, fell lighter each day until October 30, when it was altogeth
er calm, and a motionless sea held her in a hushed world. I furled the sails at
evening, sat down on deck, and enjoyed the vast stillness of the night.
October 31 a light east-northeast breeze sprang up, and the sloop passed Cape
St. Mary about noon. On the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th of November, in the Mozambiq
ue Channel, she experienced a hard gale of wind from the southwest. Here the Spr

the minute-hand of my t imepiece was gone. Said he. in retort. able steam-tug. and led the way in across the bar. The same paper. by a Durban newspaper. the Spray must have had a very stormy voyage from Mauritius to Natal. The trick of going in I learne d by watching the steamer. with Captain Spradbrow and the Right Honorable Harry Escombe. Her commander sailed his craft right up the channel past the main wharf. for. a fine. The Spray m ade quite an auspicious entrance to Natal. The Spray was natu rally an object of great curiosity to the Point people. One man is doing all the work. which was handed to me when I arrived in port. I found that Durban supported two yacht-clubs. and I have heard that others made similar nonsensical remarks. But here is what the Durban paper said: [Citation: As briefly noted yesterday. I would shrink from repeating the editor's words but for the reason that undue estimates have been made of the amount of skill a nd energy required to sail a sloop of even the Spray's small tonnage. and hinted at his famous cribbage-board to while away the hour s. which. safety. The signalman from the bl uff station reported the Spray fifteen miles off. The thunder and l ightning preceding this gale were very heavy. I only knew that I reefed as quickly as I could. Spradbrow. and what I found perfectly easy to do over and over again. as I have already said.ay suffered as much as she did anywhere. I could not verify the time it had taken to reef the sail." Durban itself." Doubtless the weather w ould have been called stormy by sailors in any ship. is best answered. but it caused the Spray no more inconvenience than the delay natural to head winds generally. perhaps. before any one had a chance to get on board. came out to meet her. often asked. being the continuation of a garden. with a crew of one man. she encountered a succession of gales of wind. I met all the members of both clubs. This delightful place is the commercial center of the "Garden Colony. ] The Spray was not sailing in among greenhorns when she came to Natal. commenting on the voyage. and dropped his anchor near the old Forerunn er in the creek. The wind was freshening. addi ng that I would work myself to death. The yacht's center-board plowed furrows through the mudbanks. and her arrival was witn essed by a large crowd. When sh e arrived off the port the pilot-ship. premier of the colony. Spradbrow afterward planted with potatoe s. I heard a man who called himself a sailor say that "it would require three men to do what it was claimed" that I did alone. warned me of it. it was simply to keep on the windward side of the cha nnel and take the combers end on. the Spray. according to Mr. both of them full of enterpris e. Escombe. and w hen she was within eight miles he said: "The Spray is shortening sail." By others it was not thought probable that the premier of Natal would play cribbage off the Cape of Good Hope to win . arr ived at this port yesterday afternoon on her cruise round the world. but on the 17th of November she arrived at Port Natal. "You would be played out of t he sloop before you could round the cape. From this point until the sloop ar rived off the coast of Africa. Escombe offered to sail the Spray round the Cape of Good Hope for me. the city. The question of how I sailed the sloop alone. however. and sailed in the crack yacht Florence o f the Royal Natal. the mains ail was reefed and set in ten minutes. The skilful manner in which Captain Slocum steered his c raft about the vessels which were occupying the waterway was a treat to witness. said: "Judging from the stormy weat her which has prevailed off this coast during the past few weeks. for it was blowing a smart gale and was too rough for the sloop to be towed with. except off Cape Horn. won races while she tilled the skipper's land. After o ur sail on the Florence Mr. wh ich drove her about in many directions. The Florence." This item of news was printed three minutes later in a Durban morning journal .

Stanley. He responded with a level. and no one in the world seems to stand the joke better than he. I explained that s he was all water-tight and all compartment.--and of course my desire was to appear in the best light before a man of his experience. While I feebly portray the ignorance of these learned men. "Compartments would not save her if she should hit the rocks lying alo ng her course. The colonel introduced me to the explorer. English as well as Dut ch being taught to all that can afford both. and so I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. It sounds odd to hear scholars and statesmen say the world is flat. M. meaning "the world is flat. Stanley asked. and also of the chance of being struck by lightning. The great explorer was just from Pretoria. just as in Samoa and other islands a mistaken policy has kept the natives down to Kanaka. and I hau led close to the wind.. "she must be kept away from the rocks. and behold." I ventured to re ply. too. it was "flat. Much that I saw first and last of the Transvaa l and the Boers was admirable. and one of the best American stories I ever hear d was told by the premier. and left these three wise men poring over the Spray's track on a chart of the world." T he colonel invited me to dine with the party on the following day. P. "What if a swordfish should pierce her hul l with its sword?" Of course I had thought of that as one of the dangers of the sea. I went ashore." "If the Word of God stands on a fla t world--" I began." After a considerable pause Mr. for everybody has a whack at Oom P aul. I met Mr. It is well known that they are the hardest of fig hters. not differ ent from the one I had read. But that did not signify. "Wh at an example of patience!" "Patience is all that is required. and from necessity the poorer people stick to the Transvaal D utch and their flat world. "If you respect the Word of God. It was a matter of no small pride to me in South Africa to find that American humor was never at a discount.--on the Nyanza. dining with Colonel Saunderso n. Stanley a second time. carrying a large Bible. but got no more hints in navigation from the famous explorer. adding. losing himself in a passion. "What!" he shouted in astonishment and rage. Stanley was a nautical man once himse lf. I ventured to say that "the first thing would be to secure the sword. swimming movement of his hands. seeing him across the street." said I. I bo wed and made curves with my hands. I visited many public schools at Durban. I have great admir ation for their physical manhood. With the advice to call up some ghost of the dark ages for research. Real stub born bigotry with them is only found among old fogies. his son. not even th e Sultan of Turkey himself. The next day. He looked me over carefully. Had this good but misguided fanatic been armed with a real weapon." A pamphlet by these Transvaal geograp hers. you must admit that the world is flat. which. "What!" cried he. perhaps long before we ourselves are entirely free from bigo try. He then asked if my vessel had water-tight compartments. made up of arguments from sources high and low to prove their theory. saying. and that. while I jumped aside to dodge the imaginary weapon.even the Spray. I think. and had the pleasure of meeting many . and will die a natural de ath. f or it was on Mercator's projection. Education in the Transvaal is by no means neglected. was mailed to me before I sailed from Africa on my last stretch around the globe. but the tariff duty on English scho ol-books is heavy. He tackled me. "What if she should strike a rock?" he asked. and had already as good as flayed President Kruger with his trenchant pen. the crew of the Spray would hav e died a martyr there and then. to go slow." The next morning I met one of the party in a clergyman's garb. but it is a fact that three Boers favored by the opinion of President Kruger prepared a w ork to support that contention. however. for Mr. proved nothing to them. and making as if he would run me through with an assagai. While I was at Durban they came from Pretoria to obtain data from me. that we might go further into this matter. and they seemed annoyed when I told them that they could n ot prove it by my experience. and said. and as generous to the fallen as they are brave before the foe. In the case of the swo rdfish. At Hotel Royal one day. and Lieutenant Tipping.

and afterward wrote me at New York congratulations on the completion of the v oyage.bright children. which they too believed was flat. and discovered Natal on Christmas or Natal day. But all fine things must end. after having a fine time in Natal. one occu rring. Helena--Land in sight. now with a fair wind. while I was at the end o f the bowsprit reefing the jib. On Christmas. or to blow her back somewhat when it was ahead. The early Portuguese navigators. The keeper of the light on Agulhas exchanged signals with the Spray as she passe d. 1897. now called Santa Cruz. and I sat thinking about th ese things and the end of the voyage. hence the name. F rom this point the way to India was easy. The distance to Table Bay. were more than sixty-nine ye ars struggling to round this cape before they got as far as Algoa Bay. where they devoutly set up the cross. and she gave me every reason to believe that she would accomplish the feat before night. The Cape of Good Hope was now the most prominent point to pass. to retrace his c ourse. every thirty-six hours. and sai led with a morning land-wind. and there the crew mutinied. On this day the Spray was trying to stand on her head. his own ship was throwing her propeller out of water. but that one she dodged by getting into Simons Bay. swung the sloop's dinghy in on deck. endowed with patience. having recovered the distance lost in the gale. say three minutes. she ducked me under water three times for a Chri stmas box. the Spray. and reading many a kind signal thrown out to her gave one a grateful feeling for all the world. At lonely stations like this h earts grow responsive and sympathetic. with no more serious result than to blow the Spray along on her course when it was fair. and he went about having the picture made. pa ssed Cape Agulhas in company with the steamship Scotsman. Gales of wind sweeping round the cape even now were frequent enough. I got wet and did not like it a bit: never in any other sea was I put under more than once in the same short space of time. He seemed to think the incident of two ships of so widely different types passing his cape together worthy of a place on canvas. the "crew" of the Spray. Vasco da Gama sailed successfully round the "Cape of Storms. Two days later." I think the captain was a humorist." as the Cape of Good Hope wa s then called. On the first day out from Durban it fell calm. they compelled Captain Diaz. A year later. where they say the Flying Dutchman i . One more gale of wind came down upon the Spray from the west after she passed Cape Agulhas." as they say in Australia. So I gathered from his letter. A larg e English steamer passing ran up the signal. This feeling was shown t oward the Spray along many a rugged coast. "Wishing you a Merry Christmas. and I have to record that. From Table Ba y I could count on the aid of brisk trades. and then the Spray would soon be at home. where I intende d to call. Beyond this they thought was the edge of the worl d. and swore they would cut the captain's throat if he attempted to sail farther. and December 14. we are told. and again she was "off on her alone. all being only too glad to get home. She began very early in the morning to pitch and toss abo ut in a most unusual manner. their commander. but one gale was much the same as another. on an average. which carried her clear of the bar. CHAPTER XVIII Rounding the "Cape of Storms" in olden time--A rough Christmas--The Spray ties u p for a three months' rest at Cape Town--A railway trip to the Transvaal--Presid ent Kruger's odd definition of the Spray's voyage--His terse sayings--Distinguis hed guests on the Spray--Cocoanut fiber as a padlock--Courtesies from the admira l of the Queen's navy--Off for St. and fearing that their ship would sail over the brink of it. and even poetic. was about eight hundred miles over what might prove a rough sea. They landed on a small island. When it moder ated she beat around the Cape of Good Hope. 1897. I came to the pitch of the cape.

a treacherous gale.s still sailing. "They took first my coat and then my trousers. where she lay quietly till the generous sun rose over the land and drew a breeze in from the sea. "Dy namite is the corner-stone of the South African Republic. the Transvaal president. and in lieu of a larger ship towed her into port. but I preferre d to remain for one day alone." said the president. some of whose sayings are famous. Kruger." He also said. by mentioning that I was on a voyage around the world. I returned to Worcester and Wellington. would be plain sailing. Kruger glowered at us b oth. At the last-named place I met Mr. Gill was an hour among the stars. while I traveled the country over from Simons To wn to Pretoria. The voyage then seemed as good as finished. or nearly all. and Lady Saunderson sat by the skipper at t he wheel. and I showed him the tin clock on the Spray. simply to rest clear of the bustle of commerce. Lady Muriel sat on a keg. the gentleman who presented me. enjoying the retros pect of the passage of the two great capes. she came to anchor in the bay off the city of Cape Town. and we went over the subject of standard time at sea. and many were not able to get in. From the recent hard weather the Spray ran into a calm unde r Table Mountain. and finding the Spray all right in the docks. with. Gill wo uld preside at a talk about the voyage of the Spray: that alone secured for me a full house. His discoveries in stellar phot ography are well known. Here I crossed the dividing-line of weather. Mr.] who had arrived from Durban some ti me before. Soon after my arrival at the cape. invited me to Newlands Vineyard. This success brought me sufficient money for all my needs in port and for the homeward voyag e. He showed me the great astronomical clock of the observa tory. away in the dinghy. took snap shots of the sloop and her distinguished visitors. To the north it was clear and se ttled. inasmuch as he ad vised the president to avast mounting guns. but my friend Judge Beyers. Dr." Only unthinking peopl e call President Kruger dull. An hour with Dr. but I was delighted. David Gill. found a seat on a box in my cabin. being accorded by the colonial government a free railroad pass o ver all the land. astronomer royal. The governor. On the following morning the Spray s ailed into the Alfred Dry-docks. It was a nugget of i nformation quarried out of Oom Paul. Later it was advertised that Dr. invited me the next day to the famous Cape Observatory. unwittingly gave gre at offense to the venerable statesman. Impossible!" he said. while the colonel. Kruger's very best friend. while south it was humid and squally. as I have said. where I met many agreeable people. "impossible!" and not another word did he utte r either to the judge or to me. Of the En glish he said. His Excellency recei ved me cordially enough. Mr. in the quiet of a smooth sea. then out looking for ships. the incident p leased me more than anything else that could have happened. "You don't mean round the world. the governor. where she remained for about three months in th e care of the port authorities. and Mr. and how it was found from the deck of the little sloop without the aid of a clock of any kind. found time to come aboard with a party. reminding him that the world is flat. who should have known his ground. The sea being smoot h. and Pretoria was a pleasant one. Johannesburg. after making a survey of the deck. "it is impossible! You mean in the world. from this time on I knew that all. which we both regretted deeply. towns famous for colleges and se . with his kodak. H is Excellency Sir Alfred Milner. [F ootnote: Colonel Saunderson was Mr. After visiting Kimberley and Pretoria. who was of the party. The steam-tug Alert. The good harbor-master sen t his steam-launch to bring the sloop to a berth in dock at once. The hall was packed. My friend the judge seemed embarrassed. where she remained a day. so to speak. came to the Spray off the Li on's Rump. The trip to Kimberley. often enough. Kruge r corrected the judge rather sharply. Kruger's friend Colonel Saunderson. The judge looked at me and I looked at the judge .

when suddenly a comber rolled over the stern and slopped saucily into the cabin. were her companions now for several days. where I found her waiting for me. were rather l ong of body. "'T is the fairest thing and the grandest cape I've seen in th e whole circumference of the earth. the short heaving sea. and they. On March 26. One of the old circumnavigators (Sir Francis Drake. secured the goods against even a longing glance. The steam-tug Tigre towed her to sea from her wonted berth at the Alfred Docks. A pleasant visit from Admiral Sir Harry Rawson of the Royal Navy and his fami ly brought to an end the Spray's social relations with the Cape of Good Hope. and she ran along steadily at her bes t speed. oblivious of hunger or wind or sea. Th e admiral. with everything in order. when he first saw this magnif icent pile. and such other fishes as did not mind making a hundred and fifty miles a day. giving her a g ood offing. My longing for a foothold on land seized upon me here. that she might not wallo . where so much of it lay waste. but instead of remaining to plant forests and reclaim vegetation. Evidently it was time to put in a reef. thinking that all was going well. where she had spent a pleasant and profitable time. at Rodriguez. finally. which scantily filled her sails when the t ug let go the tow-line. The wind was from the southeast. the Spray sailed from South Africa. The ladi es of all these institutions of learning wished to know how one might sail round the world alone. soon died away altogether. where he was not an entire stranger. precur sor of the wind which followed on the second day. reading day and night. I have to admit that I was delighted with the trend of Admiral Rawson's questions. exactly as I had left her. and now in command of the great Channel fleet. sang. notwithstanding the wide difference in our r espective commands. on which herds of sheep were browsing. in full view of Table Mountain and the high peaks of the Cape of Good Hope. and the worl d changed from a mere panoramic view to the light of a homeward-bound voyage. still traveling as the guest of the colony. I have often been asked how it was that my vessel and all appurtenances were not stolen in the various ports where I left her for days together without a wat chman in charge. March 30 was for me a fast-day in honor of them. A t the Keeling Islands. It will come to that yet if we men-folk keep on saying we "can't. passed coming in. The b ushes grew about the length of a sheep apart. evinced the greatest interest in the diminutive Spray and her behavior off Cape Horn. as if the deck on which they were stowed had been swept by a sea. but one has no wish to linger long to look in a calm at anything. which I thought augured of sailing-mistresses in the future in stead of sailing-masters. save for scrub-bushes. But when I came to a great island nearer home. wetting the very book I was reading. and left her riding over a he avy swell. Po rpoises and dolphins. the land of distances and pure air. Seals playing about the Spray all day. They parted company now. I think). s tout locks were needed. this suited the Spray well. 1898. she sa t no longer like a lazy bird with folded wings. This is just how it was: The Spray seldom fell among thieves. to indicate that the owner was away. For a while the grand scenery served to relieve the monotony.minaries. a wisp of cocoanut fiber in the door-latch. and I was glad to note." On the plains of Africa I passed through hundreds of miles of rich but still barren land. looked with large eyes when. and at many such places. at evening. before the breeze came. and that I p rofited by some of his suggestions. The light morning breeze. while I dipped into the new books given me at the cape. and the Spray soon sailed the highest peaks of the mountains out of sight. I returned again to the Spray at the Alfr ed Docks. I thought." The view was certainly fine. then commanding the South African Squadron. the first night in port things which I had always left u ncovered disappeared. but there was still room for all. I read on.

St. interesting denizens of the sea. with its harsh qu ack. but I saw only furniture. hardly rolling at all." The s loop was again doing her work smoothly. A. cal led the "west room. The Spray was running und er a single-reefed mainsail. which is in the hills a mile or two back--to his Excellency and the officers of the garrison and their friends. the butler. He had discovered all but one. Very e arly that morning I was awakened by that rare bird. the booby. his Excellency came later to see that I was in the right room. and "all hands " at once went ashore to pay respects to his Excellency the governor of the isla nd. and often looked from under the blankets. they sailed on the wind in graceful curves. and sure enough. One of the joyful sights on the ocean of a bright day is the continual flight of these interesting fish. our worthy consul. Indeed. Sterndale. "Skipper. that a circumnavigator came his way. and he cordially welcomed me. Sir R. Poole. Mr. a nd wishing me pleasant dreams. For the rest of the chilly night I kept the can dle burning. which I recognized at once as a call to go on deck. thinking that maybe I sho uld meet the great Napoleon face to face. but just leaping along among the white horses. and to tell m e all about the ghosts he had seen or heard of." I tumbled out quickly. It was about noon when the Spray came to anchor off Jamestown. Helena. I was now in the Spray and on the Oise in the Arethusa at one and the same time. Shooting out of the waves like arrows. the reading of delightf ul adventures enhanced the scene. Moreover. and a flying-jib besides. and a goat to shell it--The Spray's ill luck with animals--A prejudice against small dogs-A rat. it was as much as to sa y. and the hors eshoe that was nailed over the door opposite my bed. and took a long pull from it to the health of my invisible helmsman--the pilot of the Pinta. what a speck in the sea!" It is in rea lity nine miles in length and two thousand eight hundred and twenty-three feet i n height. while I was reading Stevenson's delightful "Inland Voyage. They made merry the livelong day.w on her course. One could not be lonely in a sea like this. which came almost before I knew it. and one of the rooms in the mansion. to make sure that no mistake had been ma de. and with outstretche d wings. a thousand gamboling porpoises keeping her company on all sides. then falling till again the y touched the crest of the waves to wet their delicate wings and renew the fligh t. was St. and the cannibal cricket--Ascension Island. there's land in sight. set on the V ailima bamboo. and then at Plantation House--the governor's residence. when I landed. Helena has been an island of tragedies--tragedies that have been lost sig . first at Garden Hall to t he people of Jamestown. pu t me up in that--like a prince. My first impulse was to call out. and arranged that I should tell about the voyage. about twenty miles off. She was again among her old friends the flying-fish. CHAPTER XIX In the isle of Napoleon's exile--Two lectures--A guest in the ghost-room at Plan tation House--An excursion to historic Longwood--Coffee in the husk. nowadays. I reached for a bottle of port-wine out of the locker. by command of his Excellency. remarked that it was not often. and in the course of his remarks asserted that the sea-serpent was a Yankee." being haunted. introduced me at t he castle. "Oh. showin g a good ran every day till April 11. he hoped I might have the honor of a visit from t he unknown one of the west room. I remaine d at Plantation House a couple of days. His Excellency. And so the Spray reeled off the miles. Most royally was the crew of the Spray entertained by the governor. a whole jib. awa y ahead in the dim twilight. March 31 the fresh southeast wind had come to stay. the Boston spider.

But fresh winds filled the sloop's sails once more. but the day went on the same as days before. The roads. was presented with a pair of white gloves by the officers of justice. There was the tree-crab from the Keeling Islands. It is said that. while I was about my work for'ard. it smashed the box open and escaped into my . had put a go at on board. While I was there. the American. and spend here days. had to be tied up entirely. His family at Longwood. namel y. or from being crushed by stones rolling on them from the steep mountains! Witches at one time were persistent at St. At one point of our j ourney the road. and Clark. Helena. besides being useful. would be as companionable as a dog. but it did not keep as I had hoped it would. save for one small incident. a c ountryman of mine." He urged that the animal. The mistake I made was that I did not chain him to the mast in stead of tying him with grass ropes less securely.ht of in wailing over the Corsican. Before going on board I took luncheon with the governor and his family at the castle. to "Longwood. of his pasturage. from Plantation House. and by midnight the light itself had disa ppeared below the horizon. Clark. in the cabin. in token of the fact that no t one criminal case had come to court within the year. loath to leave my new friends. maybe. formed a perfect W within the distance of a few rods. this i ncarnation of evil threatened to devour everything from flying-jib to stern-davi ts. French con sular agent in charge. He began depredations by eating my chart of the West Indies. Encouraged by this success. to be taken along on the voyage. consisting of wife and grown daughters. kept about the same length of time. though tortuous and steep. till the island faded in the darkness astern and became one with the night. in winding around spurs and ravines. the island next on my way. At the present day crime is rare in the island. though they have never seen the world beyond the horizon of St. as with us in America in the days of Cotton Mather. Alas! there was not a rope in the sloop proof against that goat's awful teeth! It was clear from the very first that I was having no luck with animals on bo ard. which. No sooner had it got a cl aw through its prison-box than my sea-jacket. early in the morning. actuated by a spirit born. and I was struck with the amount of labor it must have cost to build them. On the 20th of April the Spray was again ready for sea. as I thought. After luncheon a royal mail was made up for Ascension. Returning from the governor's house to Jamestown. Governor Sterndale. this sort of dog with horns. was torn to ribbons. After that. are natives of courtly and refined manners. When morning came there was no land in sight. bringing m e a basket of fruit. at the first of the voyage. months. w as quite a record. It was late in the evening before the anchor was up. "to butt the sack and hustle the coffee-beans out of the pods. one day. hanging within reach. forty-two days. after all. in an evil moment. and I watched the beacon-light at Plantation House. I drove with Mr. T he air on the heights was cool and bracing. The one my own sister made me at the little island in the Bay of Fundy." the home of Napoleon. Except for the first day. M. keeps the place respectable and the buildings in good rep air. West Indies. before the beast got his sea-legs on. since hanging for t rivial offenses went out of fashion. It was a great high-decker. were fairly go od. I had no peace of mind. On the second day of my visit the governor t ook me by carriage-road through the turns over the island. Poole and his daughter paid the Spray a farewell visit. thinking that the critter was securely tied on deck by the pumps. and I bore off for the west. I soon found that my sailing-companion. and years of conte ntment. Governor Sterndale had given me a bag of coffee in the husk. except from falling over the cliffs in old age. no one has died there. I ate the last of i t along with my first cup of coffee at Antigua. Lady Sterndale had sent a large fruit-cake. Then Mr. and I ate sparingly of it . th e governor's parting signal for the Spray. and this I learned to my cost . Helena. He was the worst pirate I met on the whole voyage. Morilleau.

looking to its capture and destruct ion. As to pet animals. beginning at the crown of my head. I was not aware of its presence till the wretched insect . till sailing down the last stretch o Ocean. I witnessed once the death of a sterling young German from that dread ful disease. I have seen the whole crew of a ship scamper up the rigging to avoi d a dog racing about the decks in a fit. I say. Stevenson. answered impatiently too often the que ry. Before his impertinence had go t him even to my nose I cried "Rat!" had him by the tail. a most reassuring sign to find rats coming to a ship. took the hint and got ashore the da y the thing was completed. but this did not prove feasible. at my head. but there was nothing for puss to do on board. It would never do. for the c rew of the Spray to take a canine risk. This also was more than I could tolerate. From this was present a family of f the Indian on for a time no living thing disturbed my solitude. and with these just prejudices indelibly stamped on my mind.cabin. and Mrs. and defied boatswain and crew. I hired the m to land the wretch at once. wakened me by a sharp bite on the scalp. not to be deluded. now with young spiders. from Boston. I am afraid. concern ing which I am always sensitive. he undertook to walk over me. hearing my protest . all feet and venom. and threw him out of t he companionway into the sea. In the loneliness of the dreary country about Cape Horn I found myself in no mood to make one life less in the world. agreed with me that to kill the companions of my voyage and eat them would be indeed next to murder and cannibalism. there was no room for a noble large dog on the Spray on so long a voyage. and a small cur was for many years associated in my mind with hy drophobia. a rat got into my vessel at the Keeling Cocos Islands. which they were only too willing to do. "Didn't you have a dog!" with. except the spider and his wife. and so when I arrived in port I had nothin g to wear ashore on my head. also by hydrophobia. and I had a mind to abide the knowing one of Rodriguez. Next the goat devoured my straw hat. on the contrary. beginning. except in self-defense. I was destined to sail once more into the depths of solitud e. tearing up things generally. I dare say. in any sense. While I slept one night." A cat would have been a harmless animal. True. and finally threatening my life in the dark . On the 27 th of April the Spray arrived at Ascension. Nothing. "I and the dog wouldn't have been very long i n the same boat. and the other I caught. gave me no further inco nvenience. As for the centiped. and the boatswain of the island came on board. I had hoped to bring the creature home alive. no insect even in my vessel. like the rat. After a few applic ations of kerosene the poisonous bite. and she is an unsociable ani mal at best. However well I may have enjoyed a chicken stew afterward at Samoa. and there he fell into the hands of a most excellent Scotchman. I have. but a breach of discipline decided the matter against him. a new self rebelled at the thought suggested there of carrying chicken s to be slain for my table on the voyage. and as I sailed this trait of the hermit character grew till the mention of killing food-animal s was revolting to me. It is. I thought. a spirit of charity and even benevolence grew stronger in my nature through the meditations of these supreme hours on the sea. but these experiences had no bad effect upon me. As he stepped out of his bo at the mutinous goat climbed into it. where mosquitos came by hundreds from rain-water poured out . according to tradition. which is garrisoned by a man-of-war crew. painful at first. but the wily rodent. with the chances that he w ould never get away. This last unkind stroke decided his fate. of the young gentleman who had just written a line of insurance in his company's b ooks for me. my ship sail ing on. and an other at Rodriguez. along with a centiped stowed away in the hold. and about the same time heard of the death. I sleep lightly. but one of th em I drove out of the ship. This is how it was: for the first one with infinite pains I made a trap.

It is hardly necessary to say that I availed myself of t he captain's hospitality at once. Water storage is made on a large scal e. as he burst into a laugh. rollers came in which rendered laun ching a boat impossible. where the goat was marooned. like mankind in the wide world. In a word. It lies in 7 degrees 3 5' south latitude and 14 degrees 25' west longitude. However." "Great Stone Frigate!" he exclaimed. my host. with a broad grin. among th e clouds. the boatswain of the island an d his crew giving me a hearty handshake as I embarked at the jetty. the sloop being securely moored to a buoy in d eep water outside of all breakers. is called the Stone Frigate. Helena. It seems that Pluto was a cannibal. Simply a barrel of rain-water stood on deck five days. found it all too small. the farmer from Canada. divided by an inaccessible spur of mountain. and is rated "tender" to the South African Squadron. Branscombe. and a little scientific farming is carried on under the supervision of a gentleman from Canada. the same team being provided. and a sailor. listened to well-told stories among the officers of the Stone Frigate. I met Mr. volunteered to capture a pair of them for me. and his sister. Ascension Island. In the limited but rich soil at the top of the island. and as safe. and belonged to Great Britain bef ore it got cold. while I was ashore. for only the wings of poor Scamp were visib le when I opened the lid. for he lay on his back stark and stiff. They were sent on board next day in a box labeled. he said. I was taken with the song of a cricket. Mr. It seemed that the animals on the i sland farm. One cow. Schank said that he had lost many cows and bullocks. she was safe. and they lay broken on the floor of the prison-box. "Pluto and Scamp. I think. It is a mass of volcanic matter. Schank. On the 26th of April. as if I were a lord of the admiralty. Very soon after the Spray arrived I received a note from Captain Blaxland. never to chirrup again. "Let me take the bridle. living very cozily i n a house among the rocks. would sometimes hook another right over a precipice to d estruction. I went on board and made prepara tions to start again on my voyage early next day. I left them there without foo d till I got to sea--a few days. It is a strategic point. became my friend. and the same ol d sailor leading the horse. th e commander of the island. while dining out one day. and he led it as carefully down again when I returned. He showed me over the farm. and inviting me to luncheon with him and his wife and sister at head quarters. If I didn't tow 'im 'ard we'd never get into port. Arriving at the summit of the island . The sailor knew that. the sea having gone down. Again at Cape Town. every inch a sailor. while I. being in the very heart of the southeast trade-winds and about eight hundred and forty miles from the coast of Liberia. this heap of cinders and lava rock is stored and fortified. and go on feeding unconcernedly. On the evening of the 29th." Stowin g them away in the binnacle in their own snug box. "and keep the horse from bo lting. and wo uld stand a siege. from breakneck over the steep cliffs and precip ices." I said. I finally suggested that we change places. On the following day I vi sited the summit among the clouds. in the best of quarter s. then music began.of the heavens. and a governor besides. not far away. conveying his thanks for the royal mail brought from St. vegetation has taken root. thrown up from the bed of the ocea n to the height of two thousand eight hundred and eighteen feet at the highest p oint above sea-level. Also a few cattle and sheep are pastured there for the garrison mess. I had never heard of a cricket eating anything. as snug as conies. whereupon my gu ide. "this 'er e 'oss wouldn't bolt no faster nor a turtle. in the sun. . There was probably not a man on the island at that m oment better able to walk than I. led the horse carefully up the hill to the captain's house. N. I knew the sound at once. and Mr. R . taking me through a tunnel which led from one field to the other. Ev en with Pluto it had gone hard. it was the same as heard from Alaska to New Orleans. as well as sheep. A carriage was waiting at the jetty when I lan ded." I walked most of the way over the steep grades.

This. nothing loath. 1898. though I was not many leagues off and was always in the Brazil current. 1895. I did not know that war with Spain had been declared. going some miles south of it. and then rapidly appearing on the horizon. and that the Spray sailed with only one person on board. I saw first a mast. the voyage is now on reco rd. and proving that only one person was on board when sh e arrived. I saw nothing of the coast of Brazil. made the handsome day's work of one hundred and eighty miles on several consec utive days. Brazil--All at sea regarding the Spa nish-American war--An exchange of signals with the battle-ship Oregon--Off Dreyf us's prison on Devil's Island--Reappearance to the Spray of the north star--The light on Trinidad--A charming introduction to Grenada--Talks to friendly auditor s. is governed by the coastline of Brazil. even so . amounted to forty miles a day. and so I di d not see the island. and. are in order. Sh e passed Fernando de Noronha at night. CHAPTER XX In the favoring current off Cape St. Indeed. he would not get much. now fi lled away clear of the sea-beaten rocks. comfortably cool a nd bracing. fumigated the sloop. By these current ripples I was assured that she was now off St. and larger than the S . the Oregon! As she came near I saw that the great ship was flying the signals "C B T. I wished to clench beyond doubt the fact that it was not at all necessary in the expedition of a sloop around the world to have more than one man for the crew. I invited in mid-ocean the most thorough investigation concerning the crew-list of the Spray. like a citadel." which read. rendering it impossible for a perso n to live concealed below. Roque. and that I might be lia ble. her bills of health. rising astern as if poked up out of the sea . On May 10 there was a great change in the condition of the sea. and said to myself. that she had made October 2. an d. health offices. produce this current. as some would say. with the Stars and Stripes floating from it. just as I was ready to sail. and I sat quietly listening to it while the Sp ray kept on her course. Guiana. by appointment. and perhaps few ever will do so henceforth. but for the benefit of the few that may. on the voyage out. besides the official documents from the many consulates. right there. by the Monroe Doctrine. which. and near the longitude of the river Amazon. Venezuela. "Are there any men-of-war about?" Right under these flags. "Let what will happen. and the current. the tune arrested the oar. Roque and had struck the current which sweeps around that cape. On May 8. The lieutenant's certificate being made out. but this story of the voyage may find its way into hands unfamiliar with the business of these offices and of their ways of seeing that a vessel's papers. added to the sloop's run by the log . Very few had challenged it. The trades had been blowing fresh for some time. Even in the fever-heat over the disaster to the Maine I did not think there would be war. homeward bound. the Spray. there could b e no doubt of my longitude now. Many had told me at Cape To wn that." A period was made. sent her flying along on her course. I had hardly given the matter a serious thought when. just north of the e quator. the executive officer. on the 14th of May. and even as an adventure alone I was in no way discouraged as to i ts utility. war was inevitable. The trad e-winds. above all. but I am no politician. now at its height. Strange an d long-forgotten current ripples pattered against the sloop's sides in grateful music. and they said: "The Spaniard will get you! The Spaniard will get you!" To all this I could only say that. she crossed the track. Lieutenant Eagles. in their opinion. in the morning. and customhouses. to meet the enemy and be captured. A certificate to this effect. And so. in its course from thi s point forward. will seem to many superfluou s. if any had before existed in my mind.For reasons of scientific interest. we old sailors say. and the trade-winds. I felt a contentment in knowing that the Spray had encircl ed the globe. all told.

in lati tude 7 degrees 13' N. distant twenty-two miles. it seemed clear that if the sloop weathered the roc ks at all it would be a close shave. [Footnote: The Bishop of Melbourne (commend me to his te achings) refused to set aside a day of prayer for rain. I luffed instantly offshore. well content with a fair wind himself. the island of Tobago. while running free along the coast of Toba go. but finally a strong hope mastered m y fears. in my heart. which made all the d ifference in the world. When I ha d read her flags I hoisted the signal "No." The Spray on the day following logged one hundred and forty-seven miles. He was a good man. Later in the day a French bark on the port tack. came into view. My final signal. So the matter stood hour after hour. making for Cayenne. off the Orinoco. A head current. let ma tters stand as they are. together with a scant w ind. that changed for him.] On May 18. keeping a weather-gage where practicable. always losing ground. while beating a gainst the current. bearin g west by north. a heavy swell in the night having thrown her too near the shore. Later at night. The Spray was also closed-hauled. In like manner. and I watched with anxiety. the Spray. 1898. and I asked myself if it wou ld be right to have the wind turned now all into my sails while the Frenchman wa s bound the other way. w . but did this glorify the Architect-the Ruler of the winds and the waves? Moreover. entir ely to his satisfaction. The wind was still blowing a s tiff breeze on shore. shortly after. lo oking for Spanish men-of-war. close-hauled on the wind. The Spray was drawing rapidly toward her home destination. if you ask long enough. this man's brother maybe was not bou nd the opposite way. recommending his people to husband water when the rainy season was on. where I could read them better.. for wh at would suit him well would ruin me!" I remembered that when a lad I heard a captain often say in meeting that in a nswer to a prayer of his own the wind changed from southeast to northwest. so it appeared. To this I add thirty-five miles for current sweeping her onward. and was lugging on sail to secure an offing on the starboard tack. as I re member it. two points on the lee bow. was bad enough for him. the Oregon steamed on with a rush. the dangers of the sea. coming out of a storm at daylight. I could clearly see the dark-gray buildings on the island as the sloop brought it abeam. and then tacked. The Oregon's great flag wa s dipped beautifully three times to the Spray's lowered flag as she passed on. I was startled by the sudden flash of breakers on the port bow and not far off. anyhow. heading in for the island. And so I could only say. I had not been looking for any. She was falling to leeward fast. "Let us keep together fo r mutual protection. and I had no binoculars. but without much altering the bearings of the danger. it was not a trade-wind. "Lord. On the 20th of May. is written large in the Spray's log-book: "To-night. On the 17th of May. not far off. as I learned afterward. was the yellowest Spanish flag I ever saw. but do not help the Frenchman any more just now. for the first time in nearly three years I see the north star. a navigator husba nds the wind. or nearly all. hove in sight. I had already enjoyed my share of favoring breezes over the great oceans." Captain Clark did not seem to regard as necessary. made Devil' s Island. I pondered long that night ove r the probability of a war risk now coming upon the Spray after she had cleared all. I tacked again offshore. for she was two miles away. Finding myself. and now I considered the matter of supplicating a change of wind. B oth had crossed the line only a few hours before. Perhaps my small flags were not made out. which he stemmed. It g ave me nightmare some time after when I reflected on it in my dreams. No flag or sign of life was seen on the dreary pl ace. Sail whichever way I would. Again." for I had not seen any Spanish men-o f-war. the wind still blowing fresh. but one of the variables which will change when you ask it. I did not make out the Oregon's signals till she passed ahead. about sunset.pray's mainsail. close in with the land .

I remembered only that in Crusoe's case he kept his powder dr y. which I begged he would send and get for me. and not know ing what moment the sloop might fetch up on a real one. Here I not only met with further disappointment in the matter." he insisted. and where I should be hemmed in and finally wrecked. entering the inner harbor at daylight on the mor ning of the 23d.--and a bad reef at that. George. not having been able to get one even at Gre nada. as nearly as possible in the same track. he added. The Spray sailed from Grenada on the 28th of May. for the want of knowing better. I fell back in a coil of rope. and raising his voice so that all the p eople alongshore could hear him. Aladdin's lamp! My fisherman's own lantern! It was the great revolving light o n the island of Trinidad. and ho w glorious was the sight of it! But. I taxed my memory of sea lore. "But there she booms again. and I could not see that i t made much difference where I anchored. W orse still. "and how close the flash is now! Almost aboard was that last breaker! But you'll go by." I cried. thirty miles away. and that gave me little inform ation about reefs. old girl! 'T is abeam no w! One surge more! and oh. wh ich had deceived me! The orb of the light was now dipping on the horizon. And so instead of springing to the sail s at once to shift. Helena goat's pelt to the deck. where. My course was now for Grenada. and she wished the sloop might call there on the voyage home. but rejoiced . I said I would leave outright as soon as I could procure a c hart. but nothing that I could think of applied to the island of Tobago. I would have made a solemn declaration to that reef! Through all the rest of the night I saw imaginary reefs. proud of her last noble effort to leap clear of the danger." I replied . a sort of deputy harb ormaster. said Grenada was a lovely i sland. Lady Bruce. I had already investigated and did not like. and he ordered me to shift to the other anchorage. and of pirates harbored among coral reefs where other ships might not come . we knew you would come to Grenada. there might be other reefs ahead forming a bight into which the curr ent would sweep me." This was a charming introduction. I had n ot sailed these waters since a lad. and always they seemed just a little nearer. not distressed. thought it did. and. save the on e wreck of Robinson Crusoe's ship in the fiction. because of the heavier roll there from the sea. arriving at the island of Dominica on the 30th. "But I say you mus' move befo ' you gets anyt'ing't all. "Oh. which made forty-two days' sailing from the Cape of Good Hope. and it brought me in contact with people worth kno wing.--of this I had not the slightest doubt. all for the want of a chart. "I tell you dis am quarantine" he shouted. and much among corals. Abo ut midnight of the 22d of May I arrived at the island. our old governor. "That's all right. one more like that will clear your ribs and keel!" An d I slapped her on the transom. When the Sp ray arrived. general. throwing flashes over the waves. for I was s till without a chart of the islands. It was evidently a coral reef. from the crest of it was revealed at once all there was of the reef. when a wave greater than the rest threw her higher than before. I cast anchor at the quarantine ground. "An' jes now!" Then he flew into a to wering passion when they on shore snickered to see the crew of the Spray sitting calmly by the bulwark instead of hoisting sail. dear Father Neptune. I could have nailed the St. of wrecks on sunken r eefs. I found that she had been fully expected." they said. very much louder than before. "How so?" I asked.hile I watched the flashes of light thrown up as regularly as the beats of the l ong ocean swells. in truth. after meeti ng Sir Charles Bruce. But a negro chap. as I live. but was thr eatened with a fine for the mistake I made in the anchorage. and I doffed my cap again to the pilot of the Pinta. There were no ships either at the quarantine or at the commercial roads. speechless and amazed. and lamented the day I had allowed on board the goat that ate my chart. coming along. behold. to which I carried letters from Mauritius. "and from Mauritius. and cast anchor in the ro ads off the town of St. I tacked off and on till daylight. and coasted along under the lee of the Antilles. Spray. after a lon g life at sea. in a note to the Spray at Port Louis. It was a good run. w e heard that you were at Mauritius. which.

"Charts!" cried I.. 1898. or trailed curiously along down the wind in narrow lanes. "I want to be quarantined anyhow. 1898. and ma de all sail for St. now fell in with the port officers' steamlaunch at the harbor entrance. Many think it is excessively hot right under t he sun." he replied with much-stiffened d ignity. R. governor of the Leeward Islands. when of a sudden she struck the horse latitudes. and the sea became smoot h and monotonous. and the latitude of the Spr ay was the same just before noon. starched from clue to earing. John. Antigua.. before handing the pape r to me. For three days I saw a full-rigged ship on the horizon. paid me a visit. for." Not doubting the informati on." some one on the beach cried. Evening after evening during this time I read by t he light of a candle on deck. who soon came alongside. heading first direct for C ape Hatteras. I had almost forgotten this calm belt. C. now gathered together in great fields. This was as it should h ave been. Anyhow. a philosophical turn of thought now was not amiss. On June 5. sah. having sa iled with great caution in midchannel all the way. H e stood in the boat as straight up and down as a fathom of pump-water--a marvel of importance. and her license to sail single-handed. I tripped anchor immediately. who. N. and sent for an al l-important half-white. On the following day his Excellency a nd Lady Fleming. strange sea-ani . It is often hotter in cities and on sandy shores in higher lati tudes. On the 4th of June. t he sun's declination on that day was 22 degrees 54'." "That's right. also b ecalmed. It is not necessarily so. where I arrived on the 1st of June. wrote on it. as I had intended to do from the first. or had come to regard it as a myt h. sah. as General Roberts had done at Cape Town. I now found it real. The document." while others shouted to the deputy to "make de white trash move 'long out o' dat. the dust-storm on the coast of Africa. CHAPTER XXI Clearing for home--In the calm belt--A sea covered with sargasso--The jibstay pa rts in a gale--Welcomed by a tornado off Fire Island--A change of plan--Arrival at Newport--End of a cruise of over forty-six thousand miles--The Spray again at Fairhaven. Sargasso. cha'ts do'sn't grow on dis island. making her usual good time . you get quarantined. as soon as his shirt-collar appeared over the sloop's rail. the Spray cleared from the United States consulate. along with Captain Burr. The United States consul. "have you any charts?" "No. "that's right. There was no wind at all. D. the Spray sailed for a home port." They were about equally divided on the island for and against me. scattered over the sea in bunches. however. as was done also at Grenada. by regular course. Hunt. The court-hous e was tendered free to me at Antigua. The Spray was booming joyously along for home now. even round the world. and at each p lace a highly intelligent audience filled the hall to listen to a talk about the seas the Spray had crossed. to the delight of "all hands. and the war risk when nearing home. a short commenta ry on the voyage. boss. else one's patience would have given out almost at the harbor entrance. Mr. and her sail flapped limp in a calm. As a matter of fact the thermometer stands at a bearable point whenever there is a breeze and a ripple on the sea. The man who had made so much fuss over the mat ter gave it up when he found that I wished to be quarantined. On the 8th of June she passed under the sun from south to north. The term of her probation was eight days. is now lodged in the Treasury Department at Washington. the "rain of blood" in Australia. The Spray. and difficult to cross. and the countries she had visited. "no. a natural experience would have been missing had the calm of the horse latitude s been left out. even exactl y under the sun. having on board Sir Francis Fleming. was returned to he r for the last time." gave the officer in cha rge instructions to tow my ship into port. always in good company. after all of the dangers of the sea.

with a s ea-anchor ahead. but when all was over I r ose. tired. while I sat thinking and watching the lights o f coasting-vessels which now began to appear in sight. the Spray and I. it would have been "John Walker" when the stay broke. First the main-sheet strap was carried away. she righted and faced out the storm. she reached in for the coast of Long Island. but could I climb? The great King Neptune test ed me severely at this time.mals. I had not seen a vessel for days and days. I might complete the voyage. not in flashes alone. By s lants. and where it had been suddenly to see only s pace. with a reef in it. Yes. and she heeled over unwillingly on her beam ends. my health was still good. but it was unl ike this one. On this day there was soon wind enough and to spare. before it was torn or trailed under the sloop's bottom . swimming in and out. where I had expe cted the company of at least a schooner now and then. and the sargasso was disp ersed again in windrows and lanes. Good work in the building of my vessel stood me always in good stead. had swept over New York city with lightning that wrecked buildings and sent trees flying about in splinters. into the sea. to make fo r a quiet harbor to think the matter over. and was not easy to climb. she fell into the tornado which. and I could skip ab out the decks in a lively manner. was soon pulling agai n like a "sodger" for home. I thought. tired of baffling squalls and fretful cobble-seas. scurvy had not set in. that was well enough in its way. Up to this time I was bound for New York. But on the 18th of June a gale began to blow from the southwest. doing great damage. but a gun-tackle purchase was got u p. an hour earl ier. with presence of mind to gather it in on the f irst wave that rolled up. Here the lightning kept on longer. The same might have been said of the sea The Spray was in the midst of the turbulent Gulf Stream itself. and lightning was pouring do wn from the clouds. It gave me the strangest sensa tion to see the bellying sail fall. off Fire Island. As to the whistling of the wind through the rigging. I was at the bows. th us late in June. an d then the peak halyard-block broke from the gaff. but I saw the unmistakable character of it in time to have all snug abo ard and receive it under bare poles. accompanied by cross-seas that tumbled about and shook things up with gre at confusion. In the midst of the gale I could do no more than look on. under short sail. for the stay being gone. It was time to reef and refit . She was jumping like a porpoise over the uneasy waves. anyhow. made sail. hailstones were pelting the Spray. and so when "all hands" came on deck I went about doing that. Even so. On the 23d of June I was at last tired. jib and all. many tunes I had hummed again and agai . the mast itself switched a bout like a reed. Under a sudden shock and strai n her rigging began to give out. and the stay set taut from the masthead. and fell. off the coast of Madagascar. but in almost continuous streams. however. Had the Spray's mast not been well stepped. but on the morning of the 20th another gale was bl owing. and the jib. Reflections of the voyage so nearly finished stole in upon me now. and thunderbolts fell in the se a all about. on the 25th of June. I found by the amount of work done in three minutes' or less time that I had b y no means grown stiff-jointed on the voyage. and being now within a few degrees of home. It was the climax storm of the voyage. day and night I worked the sloop in toward the coast. However. but rounding to. The 19th of June was fine. and the slopping of the sea against the sloop's sides . In the Gulf Stream. Just as I was thinking about taking in sail the jibstay broke at t he masthead. little and big. the sloop shivered when it struck her. but there was so much of it now. the most curious among them being a t iny seahorse which I captured and brought home preserved in a bottle. and hove the sloop round from starboard to port tack. for I had spare blocks and rope on b oard with which to rig it. and so. and it lasted so long! At noon of that day a winterish storm was upon us from the nor'west. As if to make up for los t time. where. however. without the aid of a doctor. even ships at docks had parted their moorings and smashed into other ships. and we could not have got on without it. for what is a man in a storm like this? I had se en one electric storm on the voyage. she seemed to touch only the high places.

made for Newport. She did not leak a drop--not one drop! The pump." And so I was. at least ten years younger than t he day I felled the first tree for the construction of the Spray. the dear old Dexter. She was still as sound as a nut. To find one 's way to lands already discovered is a good thing. and as tight as the best ship aflo at. some miles east of Fire Island. The first name on the Spray's visitors' book in the home port was written by the one who always said. and one that was more and more interesting as I tu rned the pages. So on July 3. but it was s afe enough so long as she hugged the rocks close. and the one more in teresting than any of the rest. I had myself a desire to return to the place of the very beginning w hence I had. far ther along. and actually weighed a pound more than when I sailed from B oston. in profound solemnity. whe re I secured her to the cedar spile driven in the bank to hold her when she was launched. had not been rigged since that at all. and the Spray made the disco . or sail to p owwow about the dangers of the seas. The Spray rounded Montauk Point early in the afternoon. reaching over three years. with two days over for coming up.n came back once more. she fetched in at Beavertail next. ahoy!" It was the voice of a friend. during an absence o f three years and two months. I could bring her no nearer home. At last she reache d port in safety. as I have said. I made the land soo n after. on June 27. it may be that there wer e no more continents to be discovered. I eased off the main-sheet now. why. renewed my age. It was close work. My ship was also in better condition than when she sailed from Boston on her long voyage. "The Spray will come back. If the Spray discovered no continents on her voyage. and t he Spray swung off for the beacon-lights of the inner harbor. "Spray. As for aging. she had o ne more danger to pass--Newport harbor was mined. The sea has been much maligned. Was the crew well? Was I not? I had profited in many ways by the voyage." The Spray was not quite sat isfied till I sailed her around to her birthplace.m. till I had come now to the last page of all. after the c ruise of more than forty-six thousand miles round the world. some one on board of her sang out. 1898. and there at 1 a. and not the mines. the metaphorical hymn: By waves and wind I'm tossed and driven. she waltzed beautifully round the coast and up the Acushnet River to Fairhaven. and I knew that a friend would not fire on the Spray. had be en to me like reading a book. and sailing thence before a pleasant br eeze along the coast. I was to hear once more and only once. I found myself repeating fragments of a hymn often sung b y a dear Christian woman of Fairhaven when I was rebuilding the Spray. The experiences of the voyage of the Spray. which had been little used before reaching Australia. And again: But still my little ship outbravesThe blust'ring winds and stormy waves. "There goes a craft!" I threw up a light at o nce and heard the hail. After this storm I saw the pilot of the Pinta no more. with a fair wind. Sailing on. cast anchor. The weather after the furious gale was r emarkably fine. and where she would not disturb the guard-ship in the channel. she did not seek new worlds. I ha d even gained flesh. When daylight came I saw that the sea had changed color from dark green to li ght. Flitting by a low point abreast of the guard-ship. The Spray hugged the rocks alo ng where neither friend nor foe could come if drawing much water. "Slocum is young again. Massachusetts. which I knew well. Point Ju dith was abeam at dark. Fairhaven. the dial of my life was turned back till my friends al l said. I threw the lead and got soundings in thirteen fathoms.

with detailed scientific accounts. and which. with such hints as my really limited fore-and-aft sailing will allow. theories. except to say that. No pains have been spared to give them accurately. I had no means of knowing that the trim vessels seen in our harbors and near th e land could not all do as much. on a course with the helm lashed. I hope. her dimensi ons were thirty-six feet nine inches over all. it was worth the while. afterward in New Bedford and when Captain Eben Pierce presented her to me. and these laws I trie d to obey when I sailed overseas. in anything at all. and of the p rimitive methods employed to sail her. her tonnage being nine tons net. in the preceding chapters as prepared for serial publication in the "Century Ma gazine. To succeed. I added to her fre e-board twelve inches amidships. my seafaring life having been spent mostly in barks and ships. which I h ave detailed in my first chapter. or even more. and making her. as I have already described. an d four feet two inches deep in the hold. and leave the sloop Spray. Her lines were supposed to be those of a North Sea fisherman. than the Spray. to facilitate the enterprise as already m entioned in the story. I see. for the p resent. a better deep-wat er ship. And now. a tin clock. and fourteen inches af t. I gladly produce the lines of the Spray." from entering fully into the details of the Spray's build. one should go understandingly about his work and be prepared for every emergency. There was no record in the custom-house of where she was built.very that even the worst sea is not so terrible to a well-appointed ship. at the end of her natural life. safe in port. and sh e accomplished all that she undertook to do. she stood. fourteen feet two inches wide. or deductions. as I sailed her. I was greatly amused. having been done. This. but would have been loath to say that another could not do it. weather-bitt cables. From a feeling of diffidence toward sailors of great experience. I now moor ship. a kit of not too elaborate carpenters' tools. The Spray wa s taken from New York to Bridgeport. APPENDIX LINES AND SAIL-PLAN OF THE "SPRAY" Her pedigree so far as known--The Lines of the Spray--Her self-steering qualitie s--Sail-plan and steering-gear--An unprecedented feat--A final word of cheer to would-be navigators. about a hundred years ago. without having wearied my friends. as I look back over my own small achievement. was hauled out of water and very carefully measured in . had first served as an oyst erman. was taxed for the voyage of the Spray. I will not repeat the history of the rebuilding of the Spray. was entirely a new boat. and tw elve and seventy one-hundredths tons gross. thereby increasing her sheer. therefore. or that many men had not sailed vessels of a certain rig in that manner as far as they wished to go. In rebuilding timber by timber and plank by plank. I will only say that I have endeavored to tel l just the story of the adventure itself. I refrained. sailing. I was aware that no other vessel had sailed in this manner around the globe. by the flat assertions of an expert that it could not be done. for exam ple. Having had no yachting experience at all. built over from a sloop which bore the same name. no treasury at all. when finished. eighteen inches forward. propped up in a field at Fairhaven. in my own poor way. not a great many. The Spray. and. tradition said. no country. under the supervision of the Park City Yacht Club. Connecticut. No kin g. an d some carpet-tacks. on the coast of Delaware. where I studied with diligence Neptune's laws. Connect icut. But above all to be taken into account were some years of schooling. however. as I thought. She was once owned at Noank.

on the end of the cutwater. put it in a becket. Some even say that I might have improved the shape of her stern. Smooth-water sailors say. and turn the wheel up a spoke more or less. boo m. and I was not deceived. and then leave it as before. relash it. as sailors say. With her boom broad off and with the wind two points o n the quarter the Spray sailed her truest course. I had three anchors. These points are quickly gathered from practice. There was no iron or lead or other weight on the keel. When the wind was aft the jigger was not in use. the advantage of these b eing most apparent in a heavy sea. Then if the wind was even strong or squally I would sometimes set a flying-jib also. pleasuring in the "lilies of the sea. required to hold her on her course. while I stic k to mine. or angle of rudder. The ballast. and they do not know what is best in all weathers. after experience. The windlass used was in the shape of a winch. with such as love sailing. I do not k now about that. which leaves a very narrow space between the wheel and the line of the companion way.every way to secure a satisfactory result. Of course the sheets were all belayed aft. except as it hit m . To answer the questions that might be asked to meet every contingency would b e a pleasure. the sheets hauled flat amidships. A stout downhaul on the gaff was a necessity . I know of no good reason why for a party-boat a ca bin trunk might not be built amidships instead of far aft. As the wind increased I would go on deck. The windlass and the forty-pound anchor. It never took long to find the amount of helm. They have a right to their opinion. one hundred pounds. so I judged the Spray. weighing forty pounds. if below. belonged to the origina l Spray. and that. I can only say here that much com es to one in practice. but it would overburden my book. I did not know the center of effort in her sails. mother-wit is the be st teacher. and whe n that was found I lashed the wheel with it at that angle. or crab. because without it the mainsail might not have come down when I wished to lowe r it in a breeze. added greatly to the steadying power. "Where is her overhang?" They never crossed the Gul f Stream in a nor'easter. Some things about the Spray's deck might be fashioned differently without mat erially affecting the vessel. and the main-jib. and no suction is formed by undue cutaway. If I took measurements by rule I did not set them down. or gaff. They will take exceptions to her short ends. invar iably it was then furled." or carving. with its sheet boused flat amidships or a little to on e side or the other. concrete cement. The mainsail then dro ve her. or. with. The amount of helm required varied according to the amount of wind and its direction. The water leaves her run sharp after bearing her to the last inc h. For your life. the halyards were rove through ordinary ships' blocks wi th common patent rollers. like the one on her. Labor-saving appliances? There were none. during which she experienced the greatest variety of weather conditions. and th e "fiddle-head. The sail s were hoisted by hand. which was a safe t hing to do. on a pole rigged out on the bowsprit." very naturally will n ot think favorably of my craft. build no fantail overhang on a craft going offshore. was stanchioned down securely. Briefly I have to say that when close-hauled in a light wind under all sail s he required little or no weather helm. Captain Robins produced the model. In a sloop-rig the Spray made that part of her voyage reaching from Boston th rough the Strait of Magellan. The yawl-rig then adopted was an improvement only in that it reduced the size of a rather heavy mainsail and slightly improved her steeri ng qualities on the wind. As a sailor jud ges his prospective ship by a "blow of the eye" when he takes interest enough to look her over at all. and one hundred and eighty pounds respectively. even in a gale of wind. I think it is called. and after sailing eve n the longest voyage in her I could not tell offhand the length of her mast. O ur young yachtsmen.

testified as government expert in a famous murder trial in Boston. and in the years there I do not remember having once been "called out of my name. on the sea as well as on the land. but out of my limited experience I strongly recommend her wholesome lines over those of pleasure-fliers for safety. But see the run the Spray made from Thursday Island to the Keeling Cocos Isla nds. I myself learned more se amanship. Practice in a craft such as the Spray will teach you ng sailors and fit them for the more important vessels. and the Spray could have stood them . save for about one hour. in the case of a model and ri g similar to that of the tragedy ship. twenty-seven hundred miles distant. however. and know that you know it. One of these gentlemen. However. But the Spray. I did not live among angels. to be sure. that a ship would not hold her course long enough for the steersman to leav e the helm to cut the captain's throat. It was. You must then know the sea. No one can know the pleasure of sailing free over the great oceans save those who have had the experience. Ordinarily it would be so. Dangers there are. at the mom ent of the tragedy in question. was convinced of her famous qualities. No other ship i n the history of the world ever performed. It is not necessary. I may say here that this w ould have had no bearing on the murder case in Boston. To face the elements is. much t hought concerning the brass buttons one should wear adds nothing to the safety o f the ship. My wish was. Mathematical calculat ions. no light matter when the sea is in its g randest mood. To young men contemplating a voyage I would say go. to be sure. and as for . I have given in the plans of the Spray the dimensions of such a ship as I sho uld call seaworthy in all conditions of weather and on all seas. the feat on so long and continuous a voyage.e in practice at sea. under similar circumstances. to please the officers of my ship wherever I wa s. I should myself testify as did the nautic al experts at the trial. One might say that with a square-rigged ship it would always be so. to sail alone. and he spoke enthusiastically of selling his farm on Cape Cod and putting to sea again. though. in order to realize the utmos t enjoyment of going around the globe. My friend the government expert. In all probability Justic e laid her hand on the true rogue. I think. except at intervals more or less rare. however. experience sho uld sail with the ship. standing only yesterday on the deck of the Spray. in twenty-three days. but the intelligence and skill God gives to man reduce these to a minimum. Some of the oldest and ablest shipmasters have asked how it was possible for her to hold a true course before the wind. though. are all right in a good boat. I owe it further to the officers of all the ships I ever sailed in as boy and man to say that not one ever lifted so much as a finger to me. a highly esteemed shipmaster and friend . but among men who could be roused. was sailing around the globe with no one at the helm. and saltest of salt sea-captains. and so I got on." S uch recollections have endeared the sea to me. which was just what the Spray did for weeks together. on the Spray than on any other ship I ever sailed. as also are the stories of sea danger. I may some day see reason to modify the model of the dear old Spray. The tales of rough usage are for the most part exaggerations. from land to land. On the other hand. And here comes in again the skilfully modeled ship worthy to sail the seas. In other words. that to insure a reasonable measure of success. yet for once and the first time there was a great deal of fun in it. I ha d a fair schooling in the so-called "hard ships" on the hard Western Ocean. not long si nce. She was easily balanced and easily kept in trim. a delightful midsummer sai l. nor did I care a rope yarn about it. and not for get that it was made to be sailed over. But in order to be a successful navigator or sailor it i s not necessary to hang a tar-bucket about one's neck. with no one at th e helm in that time. It is only righ t to say.

I learned to sit by the wheel . in storm. and to clap a hand to an oar and pull into or out of p ort in a calm was no strange experience for the crew of the Spray. . and when a month at that was all lost. Nor did thirty hours at the wheel. between the bluff mainland and dismal Fuego. I could find some old tune to hum while I worked the route al l over again.patience. even while sailing through the reach es of the Strait of Magellan. content to make ten miles a day beating against the tide. the greatest of all the virtues. The days pass ed happily with me wherever my ship sailed. where through intricate sailing I was obliged to steer. ov ertax my human endurance. beating as before.