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by: Cletus L. Berkeley
Updated: 4/3/2005 @ 7:06 PM

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This is a non-profit document produced by and for the members of

The information contained herein is presented for intellectual enrichment only and may
not change hands for monetary gain. The Author, Researchers, Contributors, Manufacturers,
Suppliers and Members assume no liability whatsoever from the use of information
contained herein.

TTrriicckkiinngg O
X2200 LLA


Foreword ………………………………………
4-Bolt Compound Clamp ……………………..
Rigid Toolpost Mount …………………………
QCTP …………………………………………..
Reverse Tumbler ………………………………
DRO ……………………………………………
DC Motor Variable Speed ……………………
Saddle Lock ……………………………………
Ball Turning Toolpost ………………………...
Manual Spindle Crank ………………………..
Digital Spindle Tachometer …………………..
Emergency STOP ……………………………..
Easy Toolpost Grinder ………………………..
Links & Recommended Reading …………….
Acknowledgements ……………………………

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TTrriicckkiinngg O
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It’s well established that the Asian 920 Lathe offers an inexpensive solution for persons wanting a
capable machine and with some clever modifications and tweaking these machines can and have been
developed into Machining Centers rivaling equipment costing many times the what was paid for these
mechanical marvels.
This manual attempts to show some of the many useful modifications that are possible and popular
among owners of these excellent lathes.
A wealth of detailed information is contained in the archives of the following:

A word of Caution
Please be aware, that many of these modifications and “tweaks” call for varying component
dimensions, metal removal and/or otherwise changing the mechanical and/or electrical
configuration of these machines, in a manner that in all probability, voids your manufacturer’s
Further, these modifications may constitute the use of accessories considered not-recommended
and/or may be construed as unsafe by the manufacturer and as such, any claims for in-warranty
service may therefore be denied.
Now that you understand all of this, its time to get those tools out and let’s start building a “Super 920

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Compound Clamp
By: Steve Bedair
This is one of the first improvements needed on the 9
x 20 lathes. I have included photos from start to finish
to build your own clamp. I have also included
measurements but please note that these are the
measurements that worked for my HF 9 x 20 lathe.
All the 9 x 20's are basically the same but exact
measurements may differ.
Please also note that the construction of a new
compound clamp plate needs to be a minimum of 1/2"
thick steel ( 5/8" thick would be even better) This is
to ensure that there is enough material to provide a
snug fit to the existing neck of the compound to the
new hole in the clamping plate. This extra material at the neck is what provides the support, not just the
4 attaching bolts.
I started with a piece of 1/2" thick steel plate ( 5/8"
would even be better). I cut this to size with my
metal cutting bandsaw. I next drilled a 3/8" hole in
center of the plate. ( Note: Some have went with a
larger 4" x 4" clamp dimension )


A 3/8" x 3" long bolt can be tightened in the chuck with the head of the 3/8" bolt pulled against the rear
jaws of the chuck. This allows a nut to be tightened "tight" without the bolt moving / slipping.

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The shoulder will allow the steel plate to be held in the chuck to complete the bottom side of the clamp. Page 5 .TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE With the 1/2" steel plate attached to the 3/8" bolt I create a shoulder as shown above. You will have to change out the chuck jaws and use the shoulder to grip the steel plate as shown. Once the shoulder is completed the steel plate is removed from the chuck and turned around. This will be the top of the clamp.

This will give you a better idea of the process.01". The first step is to bore the ID to 2. Please also note that the construction of a new compound clamp plate needs to be a minimum of 1/2" thick steel ( 5/8" thick would be even better) This is to ensure that there is enough material to provide a snug fit to the existing neck of the compound to the new hole in the clamping plate.185" Once the bottom cuts are completed I turn the clamp over and make a finishing cut across the raised shoulder on the top side.57" and a depth of . This extra material at the neck is what provides the support. You can click on the pic for a larger version. Page 6 .I use a large drill bit setup in the tailstock to remove as much metal as possible ( 5/8"-3/4") Next I use a lathe bit and stop short of the 2.01" ID will be through the full thickness of the steel plate. For the four mounting holes I lay the clamp on the topslide and mark with a straight edge. I drill the four mounting holes to 17/64" (slightly larger than 1/4") For attaching screws 1/4" carriage bolts with the sides of the heads ground to fit the T slots works well. not just the 4 attaching bolts. Still using the boring bar cut the outer shoulder to an OD of 2.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Before starting on the bottom side of the clamp here is the finished pic along with measurements. The 2.01" I finish up with a boring bar.

All the 9 x 20's are basically the same but exact measurements may differ. Page 7 . I did use the mini mill for this although a file would work. Completed clamp Please note that these are the measurements that worked for my HF 9 x 20 lathe.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE If you want to go an extra step you can add a notch that allows you to see the degree wheel.

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Rigid Toolpost Mount By: Cletus Berkeley Page 8 .

3) Using an endmill. This creates a recess that allows the QCTP to be lowered. Turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the slide comes off. Reassemble the compound applying lube as necessary and readjust the gib if needed.125” from the periphery of the plinth to a depth of 0. Remove the gib and set aside. 5) Install the QCTP and you’re done.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Quick-Change Toolpost (QCTP) By: Cletus Berkeley The first thing you need to do is take off the stock toolpost.5” to be used in the toolholders. 2) Bore the toolpost hole to appropriate size and thread to accommodate the new stud that came with the QCTP.125. use some locktite and install the new stud.25” through 0. You should at this point realize that the original toolpost stud is press fitted from the bottom of the slide. It is important that the hole be bored and threaded perpendicular to the top surface of the plinth. remove the compound from your lathe and take the compound apart. remove 0. A Mini-mill or similar is needed for the following operations: 1) Setup the slide on the milling table ensuring that the top of the slide (plinth) is perpendicular to the mill’s quill.. Some blunt force trauma to the stud from a brass hammer dislodges it quickly. Page 9 . Doing this permits a full range of vertical adjustment for tooling from 0. 4) Clean the parts thoroughly. Remove the two bolts securing the leadscrew bearing plate/handwheel assembly.

Page 10 . you will not want to go back to the stock toolpost.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Once you use a Quick Change Toolpost (QCTP).

the geartrain may be isolated from the spindle rotation for general turning operations when automatic carriage movement is unnecessary. there is less wear and tear on the machine and more power can be made available at the spindle. The following is probably one of the best tumbler reverse designs that I’ve seen to date. This becomes most convenient if this reversing gear can be readily inserted and retracted by means of a selector lever or “Reverse Tumbler”. the leadscrew rotation cannot be reversed with respect to spindle rotation. The machine runs much quieter.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Reverse Tumbler By: A. since the spindle and leadscrew are mechanically coupled by the geartrain. Kelemen (design & illustration). In doing so. Fortunately the design of the 920 is as such to readily lend itself to this type of modification. Its easy to build and implement. In other words. Page 11 . In order to accomplish reversal of the leadscrew independent of spindle rotation another gear needs to be introduced into the geartrain. Cletus Berkeley (editorial) The stock 920 lathe comes with an electrical motor reverse integral to the power switch. This switch effectively reverses the spindle rotation and leadscrew rotation together. making the cutting of left handed threads impossible. Another and not readily apparent use of the “Reverse Tumbler” is the ability to neutralize the geartrain.

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Page 12 .

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Page 13 .

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Page 14 .

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Here’s my implementation of the Reverse Tumbler on the Grizzly G4000: Page 15 .

The rack can easily be cut with a hacksaw to fit your machine. or iron. (1/2 thou) and a repeatability of 0. (1/2 thou). etc.0005. Page 16 . (Worst case scenario).002 / foot. The CBX comes with 1/2" wire loom (black. The accuracy of the CBX is 0. The resolution is 0. The CBX Digital Display unit includes a comprehensive manual with mounting hardware. It is also suggested you shield it with angle aluminum. manufactured in Canada by Shooting Star Technology. There is NO backlash with the CBX rack and pinion. and it is constantly in mesh with the rack. plastic tubing) over the racks. The CBX works by counting the revolutions of a precision pinion on a rack with an optical encoder. It also shows you step by step how to use all of the features of the unit. This will protect the scale from any damage from dropping something heavy on it.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Digital Readout (DRO) By: Cletus Berkeley One of the leading DRO systems for Lathes and Mills is the CBX Digital Display. not enough to amount to any wear. The spring that presses the gear into the teeth of the rack is applying a very slight pressure. and diagrams. The gear is mounted on a small leaf spring.0005.

but below. The basic dimensions for the two brackets are shown below.Tricking HE A SIAN 99X20 X20 LLATH ATHEE Tricking OUT OUT TTHE ASIAN X-Y Encoder Mounting Both encoder heads mounted to a common aluminum plate bolted to the rear of the saddle. The Y-Axis Encoder is visible the X-Axis encoder is mounted on the same plate. Page 17 . Makes for a very simple. using the original three bolts holding the apron tension bar to the saddle. The dimensions are reference only as the dimensions foe mounting on your lathe may differ. stable installation.

Once you’ve experienced a Variable Speed Lathe… you’ll wonder how you survived without it! Page 18 . injury and/or loss of life from performing the procedures mentioned herein.00) using readily available surplus components to accomplish the goal. Few additional parts and minor modifications are required to complete the project. The modification suggested herein utilizes a surplus 2HP Permanent Magnet DC Treadmill Motor and a Regenerative Electronic Drive Circuit Board. Further research into the design of the Drive Electronics would reveal that a more advanced control system may be implemented by those wishing to do so. The Asian 920 Lathes readily lend themselves to a variety of useful modifications one of which is variable speed. reliable and safe Spindle Speed Control. This document suggests utilizing such components to achieve simple. If you are unqualified or uncomfortable working with electricity: SEEK PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE This document is issued for INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE DC Motor Variable Speed Modification By: Cletus Berkeley WARNING YOU CAN BE KILLED These instructions encompass working with LINE VOLTAGE. The author and/or Manufacturers mentioned herein assume no liability for damages. There are a number of ways in which variable speed may be accomplished and this article focuses on an inexpensive approach (<US$140.

2 ea SPST Toggle Switch 14. 1 ea Enclosure 5.asp?UID=2005012618452113&item=101906&catname=electric 2. 1 ea DC Speed Control Board http://www. TIP: You can use a 12VDC supply to safely test run (no load ) the motor on the bench (I was able to run mine with a bench power supply with as little as 5VDC @ 500mA)” keyway in the shaft (it all fits in the Mini-Mill).com/item. but be sure to encase the motor in a plastic bag or you will get all the crud pulled into the works by the magnetic field. The motor does not have to be taken apart to do this.asp?UID=2005012618452113&item=112434&catname=electric 3. 1 ea Transformer 12V 500mA 8. 1 ea 10K Potentiometer (Speed Control) http://www. 1 ea SPST Momentary Pushbutton (NC) 0.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Components Here’s the stuff you will need to acquire: TIP: Lots of stuff may already be in your junkbox 1. 1 ea LED (a color of your fancy) 11.5A @ 125VAC 15.surpluscenter. 1 ea Resistor 1K . Fuseholder 17.asp?UID=2005021309260284&catname=electric&item=112432 4. 1 ea Capacitor 250uf 50V 10. 1 ea Fan 12VDC 7. Enclosure and hardware to make it all nice and neat CONSTRUCTION (A) The first order of business is to mill a 1 ea Knob 6. 1 ea DC Motor http://www. 1 ea DPDT Switch – 10A @ 125VAC 13.surpluscenter. Power Cord With Plug 16. 20A Fuse 18.25W 12. 1 ea Diode 1A 50V 9. Page 19 .

I chose to use a combination of Screen-Mesh and 3M pot scrubbers stuck on with a Glue-Gun… the pot scrubbers form a fine filter and helps keep smaller chips out yet allows air into the motor. However. There are three entry points (front. TIP: Whistles and bells: Feel free to carefully remove the PCB LED’s and remount them to your front panel if you desire (not necessary) Page 20 . You will want to use some type of mesh to keep the crud out and allow the passage of cooling air. These adjustments have been preset by the addition of discrete components. such as Screen-Door mesh. REAR FILTER FRONT FILTER (C) The DC Drive we are using is a proprietary derivative of Model NRG10-115AC-2Q manufactured by Minarik Automation and Control. The board in its preset condition performs perfectly well for our intended purpose including its acceleration and deceleration timing. This regenerative DC Drive was intended for use on Treadmills and a number of adjustment controls have been omitted from the board. rear and side vents).TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE (B) Keeping the crud out of the motor is paramount to system longevity. the electronics enthusiast may opt to upgrade the board with the necessary controls and further “fine-tune” the system… but that is beyond the scope of this document.

1. Here’s what we’re trying to achieve: 1) We need the spindle to respond from standstill to a RUN or JOG command with little or no delay. Set the Toggle to JOG. This is achieved with the Maximum Speed Trimpot. if you return the SPEED control to zero. Here’s the link to the DC Controller Manual: http://www. 4.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE TIP: I chose to mount the Speed Control Pot. 3. you will probably find that you have lost the “zero setting”. advance the SPEED control from zero to full.minarikcorp. At this point. S3. 2) We need the spindle to respond from rotating to deceleration with little or no delay when the toggle switch is reset from run to jog or the jog button is released.Toggle to RUN and adjust the Minimum adj trimpot to just start the motor rotating and back off the adjustment to where it just stops the rotation. If you chose to do so. MAXIMUM ADJUST – With the toggle still at RUN. Adjustments There are only two electronic adjustments that need to be set. Once at full speed. the motor should accelerate smoothly from zero to full speed. 2. MINIMUM ADJUST . If so repeat steps two and three. SPEED control to zero. This is achieved with the Minimum Speed Trimpot. these are the Minimum and Maximum Speed trimpot adjustments. These two adjustments interact with each other so you need to go back and forth a couple of times to get it right.pdf Page 21 .com/PDFs/250-0246. Run Switch and Jog Pushbutton on a sub-panel on the front of the lathe. Maximum adj trimpot to full CW.S2. reduce the Maximum adj trimpot from full CW to a point just before the motor starts to decelerate. Minimum trimpot adj to full CCW. use shielded cable leading to S1.

vary the speed. you will soon find a speed that matches the job. Remember this is merely a starting point guide. you now have variable speed and lots of power to back it. tooling and machine. experiment and apply common sense liberally. multiply the speeds twofold. For Carbide tooling.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE SPEED CHART Belt/Pulley Configuration RPM Range RPM Stock Speed BC1 BC2 AC1 BC3 AC2 AC3 5-300 10-720 10-860 40-1380 60-2300 100-4100 130 300 400 600 1000 2000 Formula RPM = SFPM * (12 / π) / d SFPM = Surface Feet Per Minute d = Job Diameter TIP: The above formula should be considered a starting point and is based on HSS tooling. But don’t over do it! Here are some pictures of a Grizzly G4000 modification: Page 22 .

(note the Spindle Reverse Switch mounted on the box) Lathe-Mounted Control Panel TIP: With this Motor/Drive combination there’s more torque available at the motor than can be delivered to the spindle due to Belt Slippage. Let common sense prevail! Page 23 . as it prevents things from otherwise breaking.( wiping with Isopropyl or Rubbing Alcohol) will allow more efficient torque transfer to the spindle. Keeping the Belts and Pulleys clean and free from oil. Belt Slippage is a good thing.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE FWD/REV Switch Close-up of Control Panel (made on a CNC Engraver/Router) A view inside the DC Drive Box DC Drive Box tucked away under the bench.

2. 6.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The motor is mounted (note filter) The tach says 480 RPM …and 480 RPM it is The pulley arrangement (note filter) 4” dia CRS in the chuck and the motor runs cool Observations 1. Page 24 . 9. I can revert to the stock motor in 20-minutes. No need to jockey the belt tension lever on startup when I have a heavy job in the chuck or when I am using my massive 4-jaw. Lots of torque from a much more powerful motor. 7. This DC motor produces lots more torque over the stock motor and is very silent apart from the characteristic whine of a DC Motor at full RPM. No mods to the lathe. 3. Can change speeds at will. nice for threading and winding coils. Can get real slow. 8. The speed changes and ramping are very smooth and acceleration/deceleration time is approx 8-seconds. There is virtually no response delay from standstill to start of rotation and same from rotation to start of deceleration. Jog button is useful when setting up the job. Have machined some 4” dia CRS for about two hours and the motor has only barely gotten warm.. The acceleration/deceleration timing takes care of it. 4. 5. How did I function without variable speed? Much improved surface finish with the DC Motor. nice when doing facings.

The spring cover is made from a piece of 5/16" square key stock. The ball bearing sits in a 3/16" hole. I also built a new 1/4"-20 attaching bolt. On two occasions while threading with the tumbler reverse (threading from left to right ) the handle ran into the tailstock. The hard part is finding a spring small enough to fit. Works very well & keeps the handle out of way. Page 25 . I milled a recess and drilled a hole that a 3/16" ball bearing sits in. The hole to the left is a threaded hole to attach the spring cover. To fix this I added a spring indent that keeps the handle at one of two positions.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Saddle Lock By: Steve Bedair The 9 x 20's normally have a recessed allen head screw here for the saddle lock. This has the indention's for the spring loaded ball. ( I didn't have a metric tap or I would have used the original clamp ) indention's for the ball bearing. The clamp is copied from the original clamp and is threaded to accept the 1/4-20 bolt. I originally added just the ball handle and this worked well.

Page 26 .TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Close up of the holes drilled in the saddle. Position 1 unlocked Position 2 unlocked Position 3 Locked.

very rigid & super smooth cutting action. The cutter uses a replaceable carbide insert so the tool bit height is "fixed". It can turn balls up to 1 7/8" OD and it can also do concave cuts. Three set screws on the front allow the tool bit to be adjusted left and right. no chatter. The cutter really works great .TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Ball-Turning Toolpost By: Steve Bedair Here's a ball cutter I came up with for my 9 x 20 lathe. It works !! Everywhere I look needs a ball Page 27 . I have included pictures & building details below. Turning a 1" steel ball Yeah .

130" The center is drilled and tapped to a 3/8"-16.Tricking Tricking OUT OUT THE THE AS ASIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The ball turning toolpost consist of three main components: base section .5" OD stainless steel. the cutting tool bit height. and the toolholder is built from 1/2" steel.33"long A shoulder was cut to an OD of 1.5"OD x 1.65"and a depth of . I have included the measurements I ended up with but don't get hung up on them. This measurement can be made once the base and body are completed. For the base I ended up using 1/2" aluminum plate 4" x 4" ( didn't have any 1/2" steel plate on hand ) The body is built from a piece of 2. body and the tool holder. Page 28 . There is only one critical measurement . 2.

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE A 1/2" x 1/2" slot was milled across the center for the tool bit holder another view of the bottom Using the mini mill I recessed . drilled and tapped the 3 holes to accept 3 1/4"-20 set screws The 3 1/4" set screws are for adjusting the toolholder Page 29 .

A recess was bored for the shoulder of the body to fit in. Page 30 . The center is drilled to 3/8". ( I didn't have any steel plate on hand ) The base has a recess that allows the body to sit flush on the base.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The base is 4" x 4" x 1/2" aluminum. 4" x 4" x 1/2" aluminum plate center marked A few thousands taken off the face.

Base and body. The bolt length was ground to achieve a tight fit while allowing the body and base to rotate freely. I used a 3/8 countersunk allenhead bolt for attaching the body. The top of the bolt needs to be flush with the base. Page 31 . I applied a thin layer of grease before assembling. On the body there is a slight Assembled recess (.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Completed base This is the bottom side of the base.010") to hold grease.

Page 32 . This will also be the carbide insert tool height. I then used the mini-mill and milled to the scribe line. I used a replaceable carbide insert which allows the tool height to be "fixed" ( no height adjustments to make ) I used the tailstock live center to scribe a line.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The toolholder is built from 1/2" thick steel.

tool height. Page 33 . The top The carbide insert is placed on top of the tool holder of the tool holder has been milled to the correct and marked for milling the recess.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The tool holder is milled to an "L" shape. A recess is milled to the same height as the insert leaving material under the insert cutting tip for support.

Page 34 . This is the same procedure I used for making the indexable turning tools. I then used the mini mill and removed the excess material from under the insert.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE The insert attaching screw is marked . drilled to a # 43 drill and tapped to a 4-40 thread. The insert is attached and the sides are scribed.

A slight bend was added to the handle.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Finished toolholder A handle is attached by drilling and tapping a 3/8"-16 hole. The handle has an overall length of 6 3/4". Page 35 .

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE 1" OD steel stock is drilled and tapped to 3/8"-16 thread. The 1" OD steel is cut to a length of 1". A shoulder is cut I originally drilled a 1/4" hole and inserted an alignment pin. I don't think the alignment pin is necesary since the cutter can be aligned as shown in the next pics. Page 36 .

With the cross slide I slowly start working towards the center taking light cuts left and right. Polish-up with some fine emery and WD-40 and we have a completed ball. Once finished with the ball cutter I reattach the tool post and clean up a little around the threaded shoulder. Page 37 . As the cross slide is worked in the ball is formed.Tricking Tricking OUT OUT THE THE ASIAN ASIAN 9X20 9X20 LA LATTHHEE To set the cutter I just swing the ball cutter from left to right until the cutter just reaches each edge.

I plan on adding another insert to the toolpost as shown on the right. Page 38 .TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Concave Cuts For now Future mod For concave cuts you just move the toolpost / cutter towards the lathe chuck as shown on the left.

this crank is useful for a number of turning applications where slow. Such as precise treading. Page 39 . manual. etc. precise spindle rotation is a necessity. spring making.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Manual Spindle Crank By: Cletus Berkeley The essence of simplicity. coil winding.

A long bolt with a taper head was salvaged from a typical masonry anchor bolt .. The other side of the shaft was stepped down to fit the pulley bore. When the entire gizmo is assembled the crankshaft simply slips into the spindle hole on the left side of the lathe. MAKE SURE THE CRANK IS REMOVED! Page 40 . which causes the slotted end of the shaft to expand and take hold of the spindle bore. Have a look at the photos above. The photo below shows some left-hand threaded worms for my Mecanno set. as the wheel allows for more dynamic hand control in some situations. A piece of rubber hose/tubing butt-joined with some crazy-glue and fitted/crazy-glued to the pulley and you’re all set. Four expansion slits were cut with a hacksaw. CAUTION FOR POWERED LATHE OPERATION. they speak volumes. a bolt and some scrounged hardware were cobbled into a crank handle. A piece of aluminum plate. The butterfly nut is tightened-up retracting the taperhead bolt. I prefer the “wheel” arrangement created by the pulley as opposed to just a crank handle. Aluminum roundstock was machined so as to make a shaft that would slide fit into the spindle bore.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE For the construction of this ultra-simple device I used an old 9-inch V-belt pulley. The aluminum shaft was bored to accept the bolt and the bore on the large side of the shaft was tapered with a countersink bit held in the tailstock. These threads were effortlessly cut using the handcrank.

40 . ect ) and uses 120 vac to power it up.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Digital Spindle Tachometer By: Steve Bedair This is a 1684 spindle tachometer sold by Little Machine Shop. It's sold for the import 7x metal lathes. When power is applied the numbers will light up "red" as shown in the above pic also ( shows 1120 rpm ). If you look closely at the picture above you can see the white outlines of the squares that light up to create the numbers. Page 41 . To use the 1684 tach on the 9x lathe also required boring the 27 mm ID encoder wheel slightly larger to fit the 9x spindle. The electronic pick up will also have to be mounted to straddle the encoder wheel. The 27 mm ID encoder wheel attaches to the spindle and the electronic sensor is placed to straddle the encoder wheel as shown below. 20 . These white lines are visible even when the power is off. It also includes 4 small magnets on the base of the tach to place the tach on the headstock of the 7x machines. The tach reads in increments of 20's ( 0 . The tach also needs 120 vac for power which can easily be wired through the existing lathe off / on switch. And that's it ! Easy to install and works well. The first thing I noticed when I received the tach was the display.

I carefully disassembled the tach and drilled 2 small holes through the back of the tach housing. When power is turned on the numbers turn bright red. with the power off the display is now dark ( no white outlines ) When the power is turned on the red numbers are bright enough to show through the tinted cover. I removed the clear plastic cover from the tach housing and replaced with a tinted plastic cover. I also had to re route the wiring and resolder the wires ( 2 wires for the 120 vac and 3 wires to the electronic sensor ) Page 42 . As I mentioned above the tach display shows the white outlines of the numbers at all times . I also painted the tach housing to match my lathe.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE My Modified 1684 Tach I'm not recommending the modifications shown below and it will void the warranty. The results are shown above . So travel at your own risk. even when the power is turned off. I chose to move the wiring from the top of the tach to the back.

Here are some photos of Cletus’s Installation: ♦ Display housing painted to match lathe color. ♦ Aluminum bracket mounts display to lathe. Since I'm using a DC motor I don't have the idler pulley anymore. ♦ Opto-Interrupter mounted on nylon bracket. ♦ Cable between Opto-Interrupter and Display unit extended with shielded microphone cable. ♦ Red translucent plastic fitted between 7-segment LED and bezel.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE I mounted the electronic pick up assembly to a small piece of 3/8" thick aluminum which is attached to the steel back plate. Page 43 . Note this is in the area where the idler pulley would normally be.

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Emergency STOP By: Cletus Berkeley PURPOSE: To provide manual Emergency stop (RED BUTTON) for operator and Automatic Stop to prevent Tool/Carriage crash into Headstock/Chuck. Page 44 .

3. 4. LS1 sensing circuit must be low voltage. Easily and positively settable. Emergency Stop Button for operator. R2 T1 DESCRIPTION PUSH BUTTON NC (RED) E-STOP PUSH BUTTON NO (GREEN) START CAPACITOR 1000uF 35V DIODE 1N4001 LED GREEN LED RED RELAY DPDT 12V RELAY SPDT 12V PIEZO BUZZER MICRO-SWITCH RESISTOR 1K 1/4W TRANSFORMER SUPPLIER CAT. 9Z4CLB Page 45 . # JAMECO 158377CA JAMECO JAMECO JAMECO JAMECO 172718CA 172937CA 206295CA 159599CA JAMECO 221401CA Have fun and be safe! Cletus. 2. Must electrically shut down machine when crash is eminent. PARTS LIST: REF B1 B2 C1 D1 D2 D3 K1 K2 L1 LS1 R1. 5.TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE DESIGN CRITERIA: 1. 7. 6. Visual and sonic indications. Machine must be manually restarted by operator. Broken LS1 cable must stop machine.

No hassle! Page 46 . The photo below shows the Model 225 T2 Flexible Shaft Accessory mounted in my Phase II+ QCTP nicely machining a Rubber Leg. No modifications …. If you use any type of toolpost grinder in your lathe be sure to be meticulous in your clean-up operations as any fine metal dust is terribly abrasive. let common sense prevail. This makes a very convenient “Toolpost Grinder” and works beautifully at machining Soft/Flexible material like Rubber and soft Synthetics (try running the lathe in reverse too …makes for a fine finish as this would be the opposing rotation to the cutter).TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Easy Toolpost Grinder By: Cletus Berkeley A Dremel Model 225 T2 Flexible Shaft Accessory fits nicely in the tool-holder of an Aloris Type Quick Change Toolpost. a suitable dust mask may be needed when machining certain materials with a toolpost grinder. Also.

Tooling and Accessories) Lathemaster (Parts.html (Great mods and tips) Mini Lathe Workshop ( A lot of great ideas for lathes & mills from Ishimura from Japan ) CNC Zone ( The Ultimate CNC Discussion Forum ) STELLAR TECHNOLOGIES ( Richard has a lot of great 9x lathe info here . Mods. Tooling and Accessories) Page 47 .TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Links & Recommended Reading Yahoo 9 x 20 Lathe Group ( Lots of information here ) http://bedair. etc ( Excellent 9 x 20 and Taig site ) Frank Hoose's Mini Lathe Page ( Excellent resource by Frank Hoose ) J. check it out ! ) Jeff Davis's 9 x 20 Lathe Site ( Enco 9 x 20 ) Micro Machine Kelly's Metal Working Pages Jose's Machining Information & Tooling Page Little Machine Shop (Parts.

TTrriicckkiinngg O OUUTT TTHHEE A ASSIIA ANN 99X X2200 LLA ATTHHEE Acknowledhements The following have made this publication possible: Cletus Berkeley. Cletus L. Rich Hare. have fun. I bought this lathe knowing basically two things: 1) Some “Sweat Equity” would be involved in bringing it up to scratch. be safe and let common sense prevail. The production of this document has given me much pleasure and is my way of giving something back. it’s accessories and tooling within three months of commissioning in my shop (I certainly use it commercially and hobby wise). some assistance to the newbie. Colin Feaver. Steve Bedair. I would end up with a machine rivaling equipment >10x the price paid. The 9x20Lathe Group Author’s Footnote The 9x20 Lathe has served me well over the two years of ownership. by way of a thank you and at the same time rendering hopefully. 2) By investing in the numerous modifications. MIEEE Page 48 . Berkeley. This machine has paid for itself. Above all. Needless to say my lathe is fully tricked-out with just about every mod conducive to my style of metalworking. It’s a pleasure being a member of this group and I personally wish to thank all who assisted in making this document possible and look forward to future projects with the group and to assisting others.