Building Materials and Construction

6. PLASTERING, WHITE WASHING AND PAINTING

Plastering
Applying mortar coats on the surfaces of walls, columns, ceiling etc. to get smooth finish is
termed as plastering. Mortar used for plastering may be lime mortar, cement mortar or limecement mortar. Lime mortar used shall have fat lime to sand ratio of 1: 3 or 1: 4. If hydraulic
lime is used mix proportion (lime: sand) is 1: 2. Cement mortar of 1: 4 or 1: 6 mix is very
commonly used for plastering, richer mix being used for outer walls. To combine the cost
effectiveness of lime mortar and good quality of cement mortar many use lime-cement mortar of
proportion (cement: lime: sand) of 1: 1: 6 or 1: 1: 8 or 1: 2: 8.
Plastering is done to achieve the following objects
1.
To protect the external surfaces against penetration of rain water and other atmospheric
agencies
2.
To give smooth surface in which dust and dirt cannot lodge
3.
To give decorative effect
4.
To protect surfaces against vermin.
5.
To conceal inferior materials or defective workmanship
Requirements of good plaster:
1.
It should adhere to the background and should remain adhered during all variations of the
climatic changes.
2.
It should be cheap and economical
3.
It should be hard and durable.
4.
It should be possible to apply it during all weather conditions
5.
It should be effectively check the entry or penetration of moisture from the surface
6.
It should possess good workability
Materials used for plastering
Lime plaster: Lime plaster is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sand (or other inert fillers) in
1:1 ratio. Carbon dioxide in the atmosphere causes the plaster to set by transforming the calcium
hydroxide into calcium carbonate (limestone). In order to improve building properties of lime
plaster, gugal (a kind of fragrant gum) @ 1.6 kg/m 3 of mortar, is added when the mortar is being
ground. In order to improve adhesive and tensile properties of lime mortar, sometimes, small
quantities of chopped hemp (i.e., vegetable fibres) @ 1kg/m3 are added to the lime mortar. The
lime mortar thus prepared is usually kept for 2 days before use.
Cement plaster: Cement and sand in required proportions (1:3 or 1:4) are first thoroughly mixed
in dry conditions and then water is added to form a paste of required consistency. Generally, it is
mixture of sand, Portland cement and water mixed in a suitable proportions. This prepared
mortar for plastering should be consumed within 30 minutes after the addition of water.
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Gypsum plaster (plaster of Paris): Gypsum plaster, or plaster of Paris, is produced by heating
gypsum to about 1500C. When the dry plaster powder is mixed with water, it re-forms into
gypsum. The setting of unmodified plaster starts about 10 minutes after mixing and is complete
in about 45 minutes but not fully set for 72 hours.
Water proof plaster of mortar: This mortar consists of 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and
pulverised alum @ 12kg/m3 of sand. To this dry mix, the soap water containing about 75g of soft
soap/lt of water, is added to obtain the waterproof mortar.
Heat resistant plaster: Its purpose is to replace conventional gypsum plasters in cases where the
temperature can get too high for gypsum plaster to stay on the wall. Heat resistant plaster should
be used in cases where the wall is likely to exceed temperatures of 50 0C. Heat resistant plaster is
a building material used for coating walls and chimney breasts.
Procedure for Cement Plastering on Wall Surface
Cement plastering is commonly used as ideal coating for external and internal surface of wall.
Cement plaster is usually applied in a single coat or double coat. Double coat plaster is applied
where thickness of plaster is required to be more than 15 mm or when it is required to get a very
fine finish. The process of applying a double coat cement plaster on wall surface consists of the
following 4 steps.
Step-1-Preparation of surface for plastering
Step-2-Ground work for plaster
Step-3-Applying first coat (or under coat or rendering coat)
Step-4-Applying second coat (or finishing coat or fine coat)
STEP-1: Preparation of Surface for Plastering
Keep all the mortar joints of wall rough, so as to give a good bonding to hold plaster.
Clean all the joints and surfaces of the wall with a wire brush, there should be no oil or
grease etc. left on wall surface.
If the surface is smooth or the wall to be plastered is old one, then rake out the mortar joint to
a depth of at least 12 mm to give a better bonding to the plaster.
If the projection on the wall surface is more than 12 mm, then knock it off, so as to obtain a
uniform surface of wall. This will reduce the consumption of plaster.
If there exist any cavities or holes on the surface, then fill it in advance with appropriate
material.
Roughen the entire wall to be plastered.

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Wash the mortar joints and entire wall to be plastered, and keep it wet for at least 6 hours
before applying cement plaster.

STEP-2: Ground Work for Plaster

In order to get uniform thickness of plastering throughout the wall surface, first fix dots on
the wall. A dot means patch of plaster of size 15 mm * 15 mm and having thickness of about
10 mm.
Dots are fixed on the wall first horizontally and then vertically at a distance of about 2 meters
covering the entire wall surface.
Check the verticality of dots, one over the other, by means of plumb-bob.
After fixing dots, the vertical strips of plaster, known as screeds, are formed in between the
dots. These screeds serve as the gauges for maintaining even thickness of plastering being
applied.

Dots and Screeds

STEP-3: Applying First Coat or Under Coat or Rendering Coat
In case of brick masonry the thickness of first coat plaster is in general 12 mm and in case of
concrete masonry this thickness varies from 9 to 15 mm.
The ratio of cement and sand for first coat plaster varies from 1:3 to 1:6.
Apply the first coat of plaster between the spaces formed by the screeds on the wall surface.
This is done by means of trowel.
Level the surface by means of flat wooden floats and wooden straight edges.
After leveling, left the first coat to set but not to dry and then roughen it with a scratching
tool to form a key to the second coat of plaster.
STEP-4: Applying Second Coat or Finishing Coat or Fine Coat
The thickness of second coat or finishing coat may vary between 2 to 3 mm.
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The ratio of cement and sand for second coat plaster varies from 1:4 to 1:6.
Before applying the second coat, damp the first coat evenly.
Apply the finishing coat with wooden floats to a true even surface and using a steel trowel,
give it a finishing touch.
As far as possible, the finishing coat should be applied starting from top towards bottom and
completed in one operation to eliminate joining marks.

Defects in Plaster
The following defects may arise in plaster work.
1. Blistering of plastered surface: This is the formation of small patches of plaster swelling
out beyond the plastered surface, arising out of late slaking of lime particles in the plaster.
2. Cracking: Cracking consists of formation of cracks or fissures in the plaster work resulting
from the following reasons.
a.
Imperfect preparation of background
b.
Structural defects in building
c.
Discontinuity of surface
d.
Movements in the background due to its thermal expansion or rapid drying
e.
Movements in the plaster surface itself, either due to expansion or shrinkage.
f.
Excessive shrinkage due to application of thick coat
g.
Faulty workmanship.
3. Efflorescene: It is the whitish crystalline substance which appears on the surface due to
presence of salts in plaster making materials as well as building materials like bricks, sand,
cement etc and even water. This gives a very bad appearance. It affects the adhesion of
paint with wall surface. Efflorescence can be removed to some extent by dry bushing and
washing the surface repeatedly.
4. Flaking: It is the formation of very loose mass of plastered surface, due to poor bond
between successive coats.
5. Peeling: It is the complete dislocation of some portion of plastered surface, resulting in the
formation of a patch. This also results from imperfect bond.
6. Popping: It is the formation of conical hole in the plastered surface due to presence of
some particles which expand on setting
7. Rust Stains: These are sometimes formed when plaster is applied on metal laths
8. Uneven surface: This is obtained purely due to poor workman ship.

Pointing
The art of finishing the mortar joints in exposed brick or stone masonry with suitable cement or
lime mortar, in order to protect the joints from weather effects and also to improve the
appearance of building structure. Often an entire wall or even a whole structure is pointed
because defective points cannot easily be detected, and adjacent joints may also be in need of
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repair. The mortar is packed tightly in thin layers and tooled to a smooth, concave, finished
surface.
Scope of pointing
Maintaining the joints of the structures.
Pointing being cheap can be adopted in places of low rainfall.
Where the natural beauty if materials viz., stone blocks, bricks etc., is desired to be
exhibited.
Gives resisting power to the bricks and stones used in construction towards weather
conditions.
Method of pointing
All the mortar joints (on the masonry face required to be pointed) are raked out by a
special pointing tool to a depth of 15 to 20 mm, so as to provide an adequate key for the
fresh mortar used for pointing.
All the loose mortar and dust are removed by brushes.
The joints and wall surface are washed with clean water, and then kept wet for few hours.
The joints so prepared, are filled with suitable mortar with a small trowel. The mortar is
well pressed into the joints to form a close contact with the old interior mortar joints. All
excess mortar sticking to the sides is scraped away.
The finished pointing work is kept wet for about 3 days when lime mortar is used for
pointing and for 10 days when cement mortar is used for pointing.

White washing
Whitewash for walls can be lime or paint-based, and can be applied to brick, concrete and other
wall surfaces. Pigment can be changed by adding colors to the mixture. Each change in the
mixture should be tested, however, before applied to a whole wall. Pigments change when they
become completely dry; if you do not test the area first you may have unexpected and
undesirable results.
Cleaning the walls first will help to ensure an even finish. More than one type of cleaner may be
required if you have to remove grease as well as dirt. It is very important to clean well or it will
have splotchy areas where there is dirt. If cleaning concrete walls, use a wire cleaning brush for
really tough areas but do not chip away the concrete. Thoroughly apply whitewash with a paint
brush. The whitewash will apply better to a moist surface, so wet the walls first and allow it to
dry partially before you start. More than one application of whitewash is usually needed. Apply
thin even strokes until the wall is covered evenly. By the time that the third coat is begun the
brush strokes should no longer be visible. One tip to remember is that each coat needs to dry
thoroughly before starting the next one. Drying time will vary based on how humid the area is.
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Whitewashed wall surface

Painting
Paints are coatings of fluid materials which are applied as a final finish to all surfaces such as
walls, ceilings, wood work, metal work etc. The process of application of paint as a coating
material is called painting. The ingredients of paints and their functions are discussed below.
Ingredients of paint
Base: It is the main ingredient of paint. It hides the surface to be painted and imparts durability
to the painted surface. Commonly used bases are white and red lead, zinc and iron oxides.
Carrier: The carrier is a liquid which acts as a binder and helps to spread the ingredients
uniformly on the painted surface. Linseed, Tung, Poppy, Sunflower oil etc. are some of the
commonly used carriers.
Drier: Driers are metallic compounds used in small quantities for accelerating the process of
drying of paint film. Litharage, Lead acetate, Manganese dioxide and Cobalt are the driers
commonly used.
Solvent: Solvent or thinner is a liquid which thins the paint film so that it can be easily applied
on the surface and it helps the paint in penetrating through porous surfaces. Turpentine,
petroleum, spirit and highly solvent naptha are commonly used as solvent.
Colouring pigments: To obtain desired colour and shades of the paint, colouring pigments are
added.
Characteristics of paint
i.
It should dry quickly.
ii.
It should be easy to apply and cover large surface area.
iii.
It should not be harmful to health.
iv.
It should not react with the wall or wooden material.
v.
The paint should not be affected by weathering actions of the atmosphere.
vi.
The paint should form a hard and durable surface.
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vii.

The paint should be fairly cheap and economical.

Uses of paint
i.
Protects the surfaces from the weathering effects of the atmosphere and actions by other
liquid, fumes and gases.
ii.
Prevent the decay of wooden members.
iii.
Prevent the corrosion of metallic surface.
iv.
Provide a smooth surface for easy cleaning.
v.
Provide pleasing, colourful and decorative appearances to the surfaces.
vi.
Increase the life of the buildings.
vii.
It covers the defective workmanship and materials.
Types of paints
1. Oil paint: This is an ordinary paint. It is generally applied in three coats namely priming
coat, undercoats and finishing coats. It is very cheap and possesses opacity and low gloss.
2. Enamel paint: This paint consists of white lead or zinc white ground in a small quantity
of oil and mixed with petroleum spirit and resinous matter. It is available in different
colours.
3. Emulsion paint: It consists of polyvinyl acetate and synthetic resin as binding materials.
It is easy to apply and dries quickly. Colour of paint is retained for a long period. It can
be cleaned by washing with water.
4. Aluminum paint: This consists of aluminum powder suspended in spirit varnish or oil
varnish. After the application of the paint the spirit becomes evaporated and the
aluminum is deposited on the surface as thin layer. Aluminum paint has the advantage
such as visibility in darkness, imperviousness to moisture, good appearance to the
surface, high electrical resistance and resistance to heat and sunlight.
5. Bituminous paint: It is prepared by dissolving asphalt or vegetable pigment in any type
of oil or petroleum. It presents a black appearance. This type of paint is used to paint iron
grills.
6. Cement paint: This type of paint is prepared by using white cement, pigment
accelerators and other additives. It is available in various colour and available in dry
form. It is water-dilutable paint. It is mainly applied on brick and cement surface and
resists the penetration of moisture. It gives long life.
7. Plastic paint: The paint contains necessary variety of plastics. It is available in the
market under different trades and colours. The plastic paint can be applied either by brush
or by spray painting. It gives recreation, pleasing and good appearance.
Method of painting old wood work
Preparation of surface for painting old wood work:
i.
The surface of the old wood work should be cleaned by using sand paper.

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ii.

Old surface should be cleaned by using a litre of water mixed with 200 gm of caustic
soda and lime to remove the old colours.
iii.
Nails if any should be removed.
Procedure of painting old wood surface:
i.
Priming coat is applied on the surface to reduce quantity of oil paint.
ii.
After drying of the priming coat the first coat of paint is applied on the surface.
iii.
After drying of the first coat of paint second and third coats will be applied on the surface
subsequently.
Method of painting new wood work
1. Preparation of surface for painting: The surface to be painted should be carefully cleaned
and rendered smooth.
2. Knotting: Knotting is of three types. The commonly adopted two types are,
i.
Ordinary knotting: This is applied in two coats. The first coat consists of hot lead
ground in water with strong glue added to it. After drying, the second coat is, applied
which consists of red lead ground in oil and thinned with turpentine. By doing this
knots are removed.
ii.
Patent knotting: This consists of two coats of varnish which is made by dissolving
shellac in methylated spirit. Knots are removed by applying this mixture. Boiled lime
is also used to remove knots.
3. Priming coat or first coat: After knotting the priming or first coat is applied to the whole
surface of the wooden article to be painted.
4. Stopping: After priming the process of stopping is carried out. After stopping dries, the
surface is well rubbed down with emery sheets and cracks if any filled with putty. This is
known as stopping.
5. Application of succeeding coat: Painting is done by good quality brush. Finally, two coats
of paint are applied one after the other. The second coat is applied only after the first coat
is dried thoroughly. While painting, the brush is held at right angles to the surface and
only the hairs should touch the surface. If necessary after drying of second coat the third
coat is also applied.

Defects in wood
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Method of painting old iron and steel works
Preparation of the surface:
i.
The iron and steel work to be painted is made free from all mill scale, loose rust and
grease by using iron brushes.
ii.
The old paint on the iron work should be cleaned by using phosphoric acid.
Procedure of painting:
i.
The surface to be painted is cleaned with emery sheet.
ii.
Holes if any on the surface should be filled with metallic paste. Then as the priming coat,
red oxide is applied on the surface. This is cheap. Painting adheres well on it.
Method of painting new iron and steel works
Preparation of surface: The iron or steel work to be painted is made free of all mill scale, loose
rust and grease by using iron brushes. The loosened scales are removed by a jet of hot water,
followed by a bath of hydrated lime and petroleum. Cleaned metal surface is finally treated with
phosphoric acid.
Application of coats of paint: Surface of steel work is cleaned and dried. After this a priming coat
is applied. After this has dried the second coat of paint is applied by using brush or spray. The
completed paint surface should be smooth and uniform.
Method of cement painting on wall surface
Preparation of surface:
i.
Newly constructed wall surface is wet. The wall surface should not be painted until it is
completely dry. Time duration of drying depends on the ventilation and weather
condition. Painting on a freshly plastered surface should be avoided for atleast 3 to 6
months.
ii.
The wall surface should be prepared well before painting to remove free lime or cement
in the wall. Otherwise, it will discolour the paint and destroy its oil. To avoid this priming
coat is applied which does not consist of chemicals that reacts with alkaline.
iii.
Painting should be done only after the surface is given a cost of sizing (glue mixed with
water) to fill up the cracks.
iv.
White patches that occur on the plastered surface can be removed by water washing with
wire brush. If white patches appear again painting should be delayed.
v.
While painting, if any change occurs antiseptic washing treatment is given.
Application of cement paint:
i.
Initial coat of white cement is applied on the exterior walls.
ii.
After curing is completed first coat primer is applied.
iii.
Above the primer coat, two coats of cement paint are applied. Hence, incomplete
portions are finished by the second coat.
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iv.

Finishing coat is applied in the opposite direction of the previous coat.

Important points to be considered while painting

i.
Brush: Brush used for painting should be of fibre bristles and not by using horse hairs.
Only then more quantity of paint could be taken by the brush which will facilitate for
easier painting. The brush should be cleaned by kerosene after the application of the
paint.
ii.
Paints: Ready mixed paints available in the market can be used. Since it is highly
expensive two or more colours of paint are kept in stock and the required colour may be
changed according to the situation. For this, paint is taken in a solid state in a container
and it is stirred well by adding linseed oil. Then by adding pigments for a required colour
and suitable ingredients the paint is prepared.
iii.
Knotting: Before painting the wooden surface the process of removing knot on the
surface by hiding it and painting over it is called knotting. Paint should be applied only
after knotting.
iv.
Priming coat: A coat of cheap rate paint is applied.
v.
Stopping: After completing the first coat it should be rubbed by emery sheet and pumice
stone. Then stopping is carried out and second coat is applied.
vi.
Coating: generally painting should be applied in 2 or 3 coats. Application of first coat is
called primary coat. Second coat is called base coat. Third coat is called final coat.
vii.
Spray painting: Instead of painting with ordinary brush the surface can also be painted
with spray pistol by passing the air with pressure. This is called as spray painting.
Spray painting is better than painting with brush. It includes special features like speed,
quality, economy and labour.
Defects in painting, causes and precautions
Sl.
Defects
Causes

Precautions

No.

3
4

Blistering

It is caused due to the

trapping of water vapor
behind the painted surface
Blooming: Formation Due to bad ventilation and
of dull patches on the defective paint
finished surface
Fading: Gradual loss Due to the direct sunlight
of colour
effect
Flaking: Losing small It is caused when the adhesion
portion of the paint is poor
surface
Flashing:
Glossy Poor workmanship and poor
patches
on
the quality paint

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Avoiding drops of water, water

vapor on the painted surface
Allowing ventilation and using
good quality paint
Avoiding direct sunlight and
painting colours of light shades
Painting on the surface which is
having sufficient adhesiveness
and allowing it to dry.
Good quality of paint is applied
with an efficient painter
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painted surface
6

Grinning:
Clear
visibility
of
the
background
Running: Paints run
back and leaves small
areas
of
surface
uncovered
Wrinkling

Final coat of the paint does Final coat should be given with
not have sufficient opacity
utmost care.
When the surface to be The surface to be painted should
painted is smooth
be rubbed with emery paper and
painting is carried out
The horizontal surface is too Thin coat of paint is applied on
thickly painted
the horizontal surface

Defects in Painting

Varnishes
Varnish is a solution of resins or resinous substances like shellac, cobalt in oil, turpentine or
alcohol.
Necessity
i.
To provide a brilliant and decorative covering on wooden surface.
ii.
To protect the painted surface form the atmospheric action.
iii.
To protect unpainted wooden surface of doors, windows, floors, roof trusses etc.,
from atmospheric action.

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Varnish being applied on wood surface

Varnished wood surface

Distempers
These are paints used for the treatment of masonry walls. In distempers water is used instead of
oil as carrier. These are also known as water paints. It is made by mixing whiting and glue boiled
in water. These are mixed with water at the time of use and applied on the plastered surfaces.
They give better finish and are long lasting. They are suitable for high-class interior decorative
finishing work on the walls and ceilings. As distempers are affected by weather and peels off, if
washed, so its use is restricted only to interior works.

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