Lucky Peach presents

The
Dim Sum
Field
Guide
A V ISUA L R E F E R E NC E FOR
C H INES E - B R E A K FAST NOVI C ES

By Carolyn Phillips

Visit us at lky.ph

Key
ST EAM E R

US E A SPOON

MIG H T BE
SPICY

UN WRA P
B EFO RE E AT ING

PLATE / PL ATTE R

BOWL

US E CHOPST I CKS
A ND A S P O O N

S E RVE D CO LD

EAT W ITH
A DIP

US E YOUR HAN DS

SHOULD BE CUT
BEFORE SERVI NG

SERVED
W ITH SAUCE

SOMETI MES
VEGETAR I AN

STEAMED ITEMS
FRIED/ROASTED ITEMS
DESSERT ITEMS

S ERVED HOT

MI GHT CO NTA IN
SHE LLFISH

I NCLUDES BO NES
OR SH ELLS

STEAMED DUMPLINGS
(Mand. zhengjiao; Cant. zing gau)
UNLEAVENED W HEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY

The body of these two-inch dumplings have a plump gumdrop shape;

their thin skins are closed with simple folds or multiple pleats across
the top. The wrappers are made from a light and supple hot dough,
a combination of boiling water and Chinese noodle flour, and may be
colored with vegetable juices like carrot or spinach. Fillings vary, but are
usually pork or shrimp with vegetables and aromatics such as ginger,
Chinese chives, green onions, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, carrots, black
mushrooms, and wood ear fungus. Vegetarian dumplings are typically a
combination of vegetables, cellophane noodles and scrambled eggs.

SIUMAI
(Mand. shaomai; Cant. siu mai)
UNLEAVENED W HEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY

Thin, round wrapper in a cup shape holding a filling, usually of pork,

shrimp, or a combination, and often a scant amount of vegetables like
bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, and water chestnuts. The sides of the
dumpling are squeezed in to form a flower shape. A garnish of contrasting
colorChinese ham, cooked or salted egg yolks, whole peas, or chopped
shrimpis usually sprinkled in the center. These were enjoyed as long ago
as the Yuan Dynasty in northern China. (In the northern provinces, siu mai
are usually larger, with thick wrappers, and the fillings are almost always
pork seasoned with such ingredients as black mushrooms.)

CHICKEN BUNS
(Mand. jibaozi; Cant. gai bao jai)
LEAVENED W HEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY

I
Cantonese dim sum bread dough, twisted at the top, filled with chicken and
Cantonese sausage. (May contain pork and/or shrimp, black mushrooms,
and green onions, along with seasonings and binding ingredients.) Exterior
shiny white with spongy edges; interior juicy and tender. Usually has
a waxed-paper square on the bottom. Member of the larger-sized bao
family that originated in North China, typified by thick, bready wrappers
and hefty fillings. Cantonese bao were first sold as snacks in Guangzhou
teahouses. A legend says that bao were invented 1,800 years ago by the
great strategist Zhuge Liang of the Three Kingdoms.

STEAMED PORK BUNS

(Mand. cha shao bao; Cant. char siu bao)
LEAVENED W HEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY

I
Springy, with a yeasty aroma, this bao is wrapped such that the dough
splays open, or blooms into three or so petals that are craggy along the
edges. The mahogany to scarlet fillingconsisting mainly of Cantonese
barbecued pork seasoned with soy sauce, shallots, oyster sauce, and
sesame oilis visible between the petals in the finished bao. Exterior
shiny white with spongy edges; interior sweet, savory, flavorful, and
chunky with a light gravy. Usually has a waxed-paper square on the
bottom. May also be baked with the folds on the bottom and smooth
surface on top so that it does not crack open.

RICE NOODLE ROLL

(Mand. changfen; Cant. cheong fun)
MI SCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY

Large, thin steamed rice noodle rolled around shrimp or meat center or a
crispy nonmeat filling such as youtiao (long, unsweetened Chinese cruller).
A shrimp filling is often indicated by large whole shrimp visible on top.
Cilantro or sesame seeds may decorate the top of some varieties. Sweet
soy sauce or a savory sauce is poured over the dish just before it is cut
and served. The name literally means intestine [rice] noodles because
when these glistening, lumpy sheets are rolled up, they look somewhat
like their namesakes. The variety with a fried cruller in the center is
referred to aszhaliang (Cant.zaa loeng).

FUN GOR
(Mand. fenguo; Cant. fun gor)
MI SCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY

Flattish steamed half-moons, with unique wrappers that are a translucent

mix of wheat starch and cornstarch often characterized by a lack of folds,
the edges brought together in a flat seam instead. Fun gor are generally
filled with light mixtures of ingredients like finely chopped pork, chives,
peanuts, cilantro, salted turnip, and dried shrimp. Wrappers for fun gor
and related dumplings are made from wheat starch rather than flour, so
the practically gluten-free dough melts in the mouth. Fun gor may also
be formed into shapes like stingrays or rabbits for special occasions and
banquets. Typically steamed, they can also be steam-fried.

HAR GOW
(Mand. xiajiao; Cant. har gow)
MI SCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY

Thin, translucent wrappers of wheat starch and cornstarch containing

firm, fresh shrimp, bright pink in color, as well as tiny bits of fatty pork
and bamboo shoots for added textural contrast. Multiple delicate folds
on one side only give this dim sum its singular shape. Exterior slightly
tacky and shiny; interior crunchy and nongreasy. Har Gow were created
at the beginning of the last century in Guangzhou by the owner of a
small, family-style teahouse on the rivers edge. Anxious to beat the
competition, the teahouse owner took advantage of the fresh shrimp sold
by fishermen directly from their boats.

STICKY RICE IN LOTUS LEAVES

(Mand. nuo mi ji; Cant. lo mai gai)
MI SCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY

Glutinous (sweet) rice mixed with a variety of savory ingredients before

being wrapped in a soaked, dried lotus leaf and steamed until tender.
Fillings include chicken (often from the thigh or leg), Cantonese sausages,
barbecued pork, dried shrimp, dried scallops, dried mushrooms, and
bamboo shoots. The leaf is not tied, but rolled up and stacked with other
packets in a steamer. Exterior a moist, inedible leaf; interior tender rice
mixed with plump, salty bits. A common variation is called pearl chicken,
in which large pieces of poultry are coated in water-soaked raw rice and
combined with other seasonings, folded up in a lotus leaf, and steamed.

STUFFED BEAN CURD

(Mand. niang doufu; Cant. yong tau foo)
UNW RAPPED PROTEIN

Bean curd (tofu) that is hollowed out and stuffed, and either cut in squares
or in triangles. The filling is usually pork, but may be shrimp or fish paste,
and sometimes mixed with chopped water chestnut, ginger, and other
crunchy bits. The bean curd is then either lightly pan-fried or deep-fried
before being slowly cooked in a soy-and-ginger-based sauce. (It may also
be simply steamed or poached.) Exterior soft, firm, or deep-fried, which
gives it a chewy skin and meaty texture; filling is always juicy, and in strong
contrast to the exterior. Eggplant, lotus root, bitter melon, chili peppers,
and sweet peppers may be used in lieu of bean curd.

CHICKEN FEET
IN FERMENTED BLACK BEAN SAUCE
(Mand. chizhi feng zhao; Cant. tau zi fung zao)
UNW RA PPED PROTEIN

Whole chicken feet with the nails removed that have been deep-fried and
then braised in a rich, slightly sweet sauce until tender. They are steamed
with fermented black beans and other aromatics; fresh chilies may be added
just before serving. There is zero meat to be had here. Rather, the tough
bird skin becomes tender, soft, and gelatinous as it absorbs the braising
liquid, which is rich with garlic and fermented black beans and chilies.
Beneath the skin is a layer of slightly sticky tendon, which feels very much
like a gummy bear left out in the sun. Referred to as phoenix claws.
Exterior soft and supple; interior lightly chewy with a bone.

STEAMED SPARERIBS
WITH FERMENTED BLACK BEANS
(Mand. chi zhi pai gu; Cant. zi jup paai gwat)
UNW RAPPED PROTEIN

Pork spareribs crosscut into one-inch pieces and then cut again midway
between each bone so that every portion is more or less a one-inch cube.
Steamed with fermented black beans, ginger, and other aromatics until
tender. May have chilies. Entire piece of meat is extremely juicy and
flavorful, with thin tendons around the bone and chunks in the sauce.
Cut this way, the spareribs are easy to pluck up with chopsticks and
nibble over a spoon. Variations include different types of sauces, such
as ones with sour plums. Almost every non-Muslim region of China
has its own take on these small spareribs.

RADISH CAKES
(Mand. luobogao; Cant. lo bak gou)
PAN-FRI ED UNWRAPPED CAKE

Large, mild Chinese radishes grated and mixed with a rice-flour

batter, and steamed in a large mold until cooked through. The cake
is then cooled and cut into half-inch slices and pan-fried until crispy.
Savory ingredients such as finely chopped Cantonese sausages, black
mushrooms, dried shrimp, and fried shallots are added to the batter.
Often accompanied by a vinegar sauce; may also be simply steamed,
cooled, sliced, and served with soy sauce. The most common variation
is taro cake, made with mature taro in lieu of the grated radish. Crispy
exterior; creamy interior often studded with chewy bits.

RADISH PUFFS
(Mand. luo bo su; Cant. lo baak sou)
W RAPPED & BAKED PASTRY

Cantonese-style puff pastry wrapped in a spiral around a shredded radish

filling. Chinese radish is shredded into very thin strips and mixed with
finely minced and stir-fried Chinese ham, green onions, and ground black
pepper. This is rolled into puff pastry and baked until golden; it may also
be deep-fried. The most famous variation is Shanghais Radish Thread
Flaky Pastries (luobosi subing). Chinese pastry crusts, which use rendered
lard rather than butter, tend not to have any distinctive flavor on their
own but serve as backdrops for the filling. Exterior crunchy and dry;
interior filled with savory, seasoned, barely done radish.

FRIED RICE-DOUGH PACKETS

(Mand. xian shui jiao; Cant. hom sui gok)
DEEP-F RI ED WRAPPED PROTEIN

A lightly sweetened rice dough mixed with a little wheat starch, lard, and
boiling water, formed into small wrappers, and then filled with a loose
mixture of meats, dried shrimp, and vegetables such as salted turnips,
bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, and water chestnuts bound together
in a light gravy. These are then formed into slightly elongated ovals with
gentle points at each end; the packets are fried to a golden brown, which
puffs them up. This creates many textures, as the surface becomes almost
like sandpaper, and this yields to a sweet and slightly tacky dough balloon
that holds the tiny offering of savory, chewy seasonings.

WRAPPED CRAB CLAWS

(Mand. niang xie qian; Cant. yeung hai kim)
DEEP-FRI ED WRAPPED PROTEIN

The shell of a crab claw is removed, leaving only the part covering the
pincers as a handle. Then a forcemeat of shrimpeither mixed with pork
or crab or shrimp alonecovers the meaty part of the claw, forming a
ball. This forcemeat may be seasoned with ginger, green onion, and rice
wine. This forcemeat is rolled in a double-bound coating (cornstarch, egg
wash, then bread crumbs) before it is deep-fried; may also be steamed
without the breading. The Cantonese approach to shrimp forcemeat is to
present the shellfish in all its glory, with only a bit of fat to amp up the
mouthfeel, plus seasonings to perfume the whole.

TARO-WRAPPED PORK
(Mand. yu jiao; Cant. wu gok)
DEEP-F RI E D WRAPPED PROTEIN

Large, starchy taro root is cooked and mashed like a potato, and then
mixed with wheat starch, lard, and boiling water to form a thick paste.
Ground pork is the main ingredient for the filling, although fresh shrimp,
barbecued pork, black mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and green onions may
be added to form a rough mixture in a light gravy. The cooled taro paste
is formed into a firm dough and filled with the meat mixture. These are
rolled by hand into a loose football shape. When deep-fried, the taro puffs
up into what the Chinese call feng chao or a honeycomb. This is a nettinglike crust formed by the explosion of the taro coating in the hot oil.

ROAST DUCK
(Mand. kao ya; Cant. siu aap)
ROASTED MEAT ;

Cantonese-style roast duck is usually served in portions of a half or

quarter bird. No matter which style of roast duck is served, the brown
skin is usually fairly crisp, with the fat layer distinctly separate from both
the skin and the slightly pink meat. The duck will generally have a sauce
that varies from lightly to very sweet, and the meat itself will be savory
and juicy. The meat is cut into roughly half-inch slices in the kitchen
prior to serving, but the bones remain in the duck, and the pieces will be
reassembled to look like a complete section. Sometimes served over a
scattering of sweet and savory cooked soybeans.

SUCKLING PIG
(Mand. pian pi kao ru zhu; Cant. pin pei siu jyu jyut)
ROASTED MEAT ;

A whole suckling pig is prepared as follows: the skin is lacquered with

repeated layers of maltose and Zhejiang vinegar, while the meat is
marinated with hoisin sauce, sesame sauce, and other seasonings. The
result is an extremely tender meat with an almost gelatinous texture.
The roasting process lifts the skin off the meat so that it becomes brittle,
and the fat and meat layers become distinct. The skin may be eaten
separately from the meat with steamed buns and hoisin sauce. But
this is not the custom at dim sum teahouses, where the suckling pig is
sometimes served without any adornment.

MANGO PUDDING
(Mand. mangguo puding; Cant. mong guo bo din)
COOL SW EETS: PUDDINGS ;

A soft puddingcontaining the pulp of ripe mangoes blended with milk,

sugar, gelatin, sugar, and sometimes eggsthat is chilled and served
cold in individual cups; often molded into decorative shapes. Usually
pale orange in color, with small pieces of mango sometimes folded into the
pudding or added as a garnish; some chefs drizzle condensed milk over
the pudding. Additional garnishes may also include berries, mint, parsley,
or whipped cream. Probably derived from the traditional British favorite
blancmange, which is sweetened and thickened milk or cream that is most
often flavored with almonds, molded, and served cold.

CUSTARD TARTS
(Mand. danta; Cant. daan taat)
COOL SWEETS: TARTS ;

Chinese puff or short pastry in individual tartlets holds a light, sweet

custard that is baked until barely solid. Exterior crisp and flaky; interior
soft and eggy. The pastry is akin or identical to that of Curry Turnovers,
cut into small circles, and fitted into round tartlet pans, then blind-baked
and filled with a sweet, rich custard mixturebasically egg, milk, and
vanillaand cooked until tender. These tarts can be enjoyed warm or
cool. Custard tarts are, in all likelihood, a Guangzhou interpretation of
the English custard pie. The Portuguese Custard Tart (pasteis de nata),
with a broiled top, is another recent variation.

FRIED SESAME BALLS

(Mand. jian dui; Cant. jian dui)
HOT FRIED SWEETS

Airy balls of sweetened, glutinous rice dough, the outside covered with
white sesame seeds before being deep-fried. This popular Chinese New
Year treat is now an everyday dim sum offering, and while fillings may
vary, sweetened red bean is the most common. Hot, crisp, and round
right out of the fryer, they quickly deflate and soften as they cool. The
Cantonese name, jian dui, literally means fried lumps. In the north,
fried sesame balls are referred to as ma tuan (sesame orbs), rather than
jian dui. Exterior slightly crisp, yields to a tender layer of sweet rice
dough; interior a marble of sweet red-bean paste.

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