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06-01-2008, 07:13 PM

animator
big bird

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#1 (permalink)

Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle

So the latest rifle project I have officially kicked off is an HK/CETME/PTR rifle. My end goal for this build
is to end up with an HK-G3 rifle, using a combination of CETME, PTR, and HK parts. I am also building
off an Ohio Rapid Fire 80% flat.
The first step was to acquire some flats. I will be building this with many of the same group of guys I
built FALs and AKs with over the past few years, as well as a possible few newcomers. Either way, I'm
definitely excited.

Join Date: Sep 2002


Member # 13701
Location: Plano/Dallas
Posts: 4,248

My list of compliance parts will be:


US
US
US
US
US

Barrel
Muzzle device
Receiver
Rear Stock
Cocking Handle

I still need 2 US parts, and I hear rumors of triggers and hammers floating around. I will keep my eyes
out for one.

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

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I will also be doing a clipped-and-pinned SEF lower. I intend to keep the SEF markings, however it will
obviously be a Semi-only build.
I'll post progress as it occurs, but it will not be a continuous thread. I'll post up my experiences during
this build, so take them for what they are. Your mileage may vary.
The first step (besides acquiring a CETME parts kit sans-barrel for all of 50 bucks from Centerfire way
back when...) was to get an ORF flat. These were pressed off of original HK dies, so they should be
identical to an HK receiver.

The next step is to press the receiver into shape. I have a bending thread posted that documents this,
but I will post it here as well.

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Complete with dummy bolt carrier

Start by placing your flat into the jig and centering it using the centering bolts.

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Next, put the rod piece in. This is a round bar that basically forms the top radius of the bend. It is
guided by slots on the front and rear of the jig. Begin to slowly apply pressure and watch as the flat
begins to slowly form up.

Once pressure is applied, the ends begin to rise up (if you've done an AK, you are familiar with this) and
keep applying slow gentle pressure on it, and keep both ends coming up at roughly the same pace.
Every flat I bent tended to rise up on the left side a bit faster than the right, but they came out just

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

fine.

Keep pressing until the ends meet, and then do a little more. Remember that metal has memory, and
will tend to bend back the way it was. So by going a little further, once it pops back out, the ends will be
much closer than they would if you simply stop as soon as they contact. Be sure to check to make sure
both ends are equal, or at least close. If they are not close, you *can* fix it, but it takes a LOT of effort
(I know, because one guy bending with us had his get off-center, and we had to spend a lot of time
getting them back right, but the good news is, it can be done.)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/outdoor-sports-recreation/688219-home-building-cetme-hk-g3-ptr-rifle.html

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Doesn't get much closer than that.


And here's the final results:

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

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Last edited by animator; 06-01-2008 at 07:57 PM.

06-01-2008, 07:14 PM

animator
big bird

#2 (permalink)

So, the next step is to demil my CETME parts. Mainly, I'm interested in the cocking tube, trunion, and
mag lock and release parts.
I start by chocking up the cocking tube and trunion into a vice. Don't go too tight, otherwise you risk
deforming your tube. Notice the plug welds, in addition to the weld where the tube meets the receiver.

Join Date: Sep 2002


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Location: Plano/Dallas
Posts: 4,248

Using a dremel with a cutoff wheel, I cut down the length of the receiver, as shown.

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

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Flipped it over and did the same to the other side. You want to be careful and not cut too deep. There is
a sleeve inside the receiver, and if you get too carried away, you will cut this sleeve.

With those two cuts, the trunion drops away, and can be set aside.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/outdoor-sports-recreation/688219-home-building-cetme-hk-g3-ptr-rifle.html

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Next, I need to remove the excess scrap receiver still welded to the cocking tube. You want to be VERY
careful while cutting this off. You can very easily cut into the cocking tube's sleeve, and ruin it. You also
want to pay attention where you cut. If you cut your tube too short, you can potentially have issues
with bolt-gap later on. I used tape to mark where I did NOT want to cut.

Now comes the hard part--the plug welds.

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

I ground them down. You want to go slow here, and pay attention to the grinding tool. You can notice
the metal seams as you break through the weld, so when you see the seams, stop, and begin to pry
away the metal. On my kit, there were three plug welds on the side, and two on top.

Now the cocking tube is off and can be set aside.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/outdoor-sports-recreation/688219-home-building-cetme-hk-g3-ptr-rifle.html

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To get the trunion out, you will have to grind as many as 6 plug welds. There should be 2 on each side,
and one on the bottom. Once these welds are ground out, peel away the scrap receiver, and set your
trunion aside.

You can, if you choose, press in your barrel at this step. I would recommend it, as having the trunion

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/outdoor-sports-recreation/688219-home-building-cetme-hk-g3-ptr-rifle.html

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

out of the receiver is the easiest way to do it. I will post more on the bolt gap and barrel pressing once
that step is final.
I mocked up the parts to see how it's all looking. I'm not happy with the 16" barrel, and instead will be
getting an 18" barrel. 18's weren't available when I ordered the 16, but I've seen them back on the PTR
website, so I will save the 16" barrel for a G3K clone for a future build.

More to come... next step will be to weld the receiver... I'll follow up with pics once that has happened...
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Last edited by animator; 06-01-2008 at 07:16 PM.

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06-01-2008, 09:57 PM

Numidian

Zeus of the Sluice

#3 (permalink)

Looks like an oversized MP5 in that last pic LOL


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06-02-2008, 07:34 AM

animator
big bird

#4 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Numidian


Looks like an oversized MP5 in that last pic LOL

That's because a G3 IS an oversized MP5


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06-02-2008, 08:10 AM

Aces'n'8s

#5 (permalink)

Looks good. Do you plan to Tig or Mig the receiver?

Axes of E-ville

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06-02-2008, 09:38 AM

animator
big bird

Join Date: Sep 2002


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#6 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aces'n'8s


Looks good. Do you plan to Tig or Mig the receiver?

TIG
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06-02-2008, 02:09 PM

aloharover
I build stuff

#7 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by animator


That's because a G3 IS an oversized MP5

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Uhmmm, nope.
MP5 is a miniture G3
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06-02-2008, 04:53 PM

Jason R

Registered User

#8 (permalink)

You should machine and weld a picatinny rail on the receiver...right in front of the drum site. Make it low
profile and no need for the crappy HK clamp-on shit!
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06-02-2008, 05:59 PM

animator
big bird

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#9 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason R


You should machine and weld a picatinny rail on the receiver...right in front of the drum site.
Make it low profile and no need for the crappy HK clamp-on shit!

I am way ahead of you on that...


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06-03-2008, 09:14 AM

Grimjaw

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#10 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by animator


I am way ahead of you on that...
Ok, that sounds interesting, very interesting.....
What do you have up your sleeve? I may just steal the idea for my two.
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06-03-2008, 09:18 AM

afroman006

#11 (permalink)

Me too, I have 1 1/2' of Scott's steel rail. Any chance I can send it up to you to get the radius cut on the

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bottom?
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06-03-2008, 09:47 AM

hoohaa

Registered User

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

#12 (permalink)

Wow, I will be watching this thread closely. I've got a CETME kit that needs to be built as well. Heck, I
wish I had known you would have that flat bending jig, I would have bought a flat and begged to get
invited to the "guys who build 68 rifles at a time club".

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06-03-2008, 10:38 AM

Gozuki

Pirate4x4 Addict!

#13 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by afroman006


Me too, I have 1 1/2' of Scott's steel rail. Any chance I can send it up to you to get the radius
cut on the bottom?
What is the radius?
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06-03-2008, 10:53 AM

animator
big bird

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#14 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoohaa


Wow, I will be watching this thread closely. I've got a CETME kit that needs to be built as well.
Heck, I wish I had known you would have that flat bending jig, I would have bought a flat and
begged to get invited to the "guys who build 68 rifles at a time club".

Buy some flats and I'm sure we can work something out. The guy whose jig I used is over in Ft. Worth.
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06-03-2008, 12:19 PM

Grimjaw

Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004

#15 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gozuki


What is the radius?

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most likely it will be close to 7/8", but mine are not bent,yet.
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06-03-2008, 02:08 PM

animator
big bird

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

#16 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grimjaw


most likely it will be close to 7/8", but mine are not bent,yet.

It's just slightly larger than 5/8". Some people use 5/8" rod clamped to a table to draw over their
receivers. It's a crude method that produces only marginal results...
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06-03-2008, 03:17 PM

afroman006
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#17 (permalink)

So how're you doing the bottom of your rail?


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06-03-2008, 07:14 PM

animator
big bird

#18 (permalink)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grimjaw


Ok, that sounds interesting, very interesting.....
What do you have up your sleeve? I may just steal the idea for my two.

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Location: Plano/Dallas
Posts: 4,248

I've been talking to scott@rockstomper about getting a few lengths, and once I find out how much I will
need, I'll be making an order.
Once the rail is in, we'll figure out how best to weld it to the receiver. It will be similar to the welding
required to mount the rear sight base, so I'm not too worried about it being too difficult or anything...

Quote:

Originally Posted by afroman006


Me too, I have 1 1/2' of Scott's steel rail. Any chance I can send it up to you to get the radius
cut on the bottom?

You can send it if you want, or hold onto it for build day (which I still don't know when that will be).
Either way, it will get welded on when the time comes. I'm in no rush for it, though...

Quote:

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Home-Building a CETME/HK-G3/PTR Rifle - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Originally Posted by afroman006


So how're you doing the bottom of your rail?

Haven't figured it out yet. Once I see the rail, I'll come up with something...
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Last edited by animator; 06-03-2008 at 07:15 PM.

06-03-2008, 07:59 PM

hoohaa

#19 (permalink)

I dont care what they say. CETMEs freakin rock!

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09-13-2008,
05:54 PM

animator

#20 (permalink)

So getting this going again...

big bird

I had originally planned on doing this during a build party among some local friends, but I'm kinda tired of waiting on
them... seems like everyone is caught up with other priorities, which is totally cool with me, but I'd like to get this gun
built, and so I decided to just do it on my own.

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2002
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Plano/Dallas
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Had originally planned to TIG it, but the TIG welding was going to be done by someone else. And since I'm doing it on
my own now, I had to settle for MIG. MIG's fine for this, and many people have reported good results with MIG, so I'm
using what I have.
I started by clamping the magwell area closed. Almost all of this area gets cut out when doing an ATF-approved semibuild, so it's almost a waste to even weld it. I'm doing it to help hold the receiver together. I started by tacking
everything together.

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With the magwell area tacked, I moved to the rear. You don't want to weld this together without the stock block in place.
If you do, your receiver might be too narrow at the rear. I installed the stock block, and clamped everything in place,
then tacked the two ends.
With my heat settings set for sheet metal, I didn't worry about any burn-through getting on the stock block. It is such a
thick piece of metal, you get absolutely no penetration when using sheet metal settings, so once the ends were tacked
together, the stock block simply popped out with a hit from a hammer.

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

The stock block needed a bit of sanding on the bottom. You can see how the holes don't perfectly line up. Personally, I'd
rather have a block with no holes cut in it, but this works just as well. I sanded the bottom to try and get the holes a bit
closer, but didn't make it perfect. That won't be a problem, because the holes for the stock pins need to be drilled out
anyway, so I figured the amount it is off won't hurt it, since it will all be drilled out a bit larger anyway.

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tacked everything in place before doing final welding.

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Receiver welded together. I blew through the end a bit, which I figured would happen.. lol. But I'm not worried about
that. Once the trunion is installed, I will fill that area with weld. It kinda looks like the receiver was welded with a huge
gap in the ends. This isn't the case, though. The ends were welded completely flush. I installed the front trunion before
welding, to make sure everything fit. Then I removed the trunion before doing the final weld.

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The rear stock block was a bit tricky. To weld it in, I set the heat settings all the way up. I hit the block with the weld, let
the puddle form, then walked it over to the edge of the receiver and let the puddles pool together. If you fuck up here,
you will blow a huge hole right through your receiver. And those are never fun to fix.

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09-13-2008,
07:17 PM

animator

#21 (permalink)

Next up is the cocking tube

big bird

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I drilled 3 holes on each side for the cocking tube sleeve. This is the same way it is done on the G3/CETME rifles from the
factory, so I figured I'd do it this way too. Some people only weld the tube where it meets the receiver. I think the factory
also puts two welds on top, but I didn't do those... mainly because I forgot to drill holes for them

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Then weld it on.

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Last edited by animator; 09-13-2008 at 08:13 PM.

09-13-2008, 08:10 PM

Grimjaw

Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 32013
Location: Fort Mill, SC
Posts: 433

#22 (permalink)

Very nice build so far.


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09-14-2008,
12:03 PM

animator
big bird

#23 (permalink)

So next up is the semi-auto shelf for the receiver. This piece is meant to block the installation of a full-auto lower
receiver. It must be wide enough so that a full-auto lower receiver cannot be installed. It also blocks the pin hole for the
full-auto lower receiver.
I started by using a 3/8" piece of steel, cut to 20mm x 22mm (yeah I use both systems for measuring...

In hind-sight, I would rather use a 1/2" thick piece, but this will work just as well. I'm using my Century CETME as a goby for this, and the 3/8" is what they used.
Join Date: Sep
2002

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Member # 13701
Location:
Plano/Dallas
Posts: 4,248

Then measure and mark for a chamfer.

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I ended up going a bit deeper on the chamfer than originally marked. It didn't look deep enough compared to my CETME.

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Then measure and mark the receiver where it will be cut out.

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Then cut it out.

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Cut it just enough to allow the semi-auto shelf to slide in tightly.

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

And it is wide enough to clearly block an un-modified full-auto lower receiver.

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

So next up is the paddle mag release switch. I can see why companies don't include the paddle mag release on their
builds, as it is kinda a bitch to do. On my semi-auto shelf, I have measured and marked the area that needs to be
removed to make clearance for the paddle.

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And this is where you guys with your fancy milling equipment can go fawk yourselves with my dremel tool
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09-14-2008,
12:04 PM

animator

#24 (permalink)

Rather than try to dremel out the whole opening, I drilled it out first.

big bird

Join Date: Sep


2002
Member # 13701
Location:
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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Then dremeled and hand-filed it to make it square.

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

The ears of the lower receiver must be widened to fit on the semi-auto shelf. Some people simply cut these off, but I
want a clipped-and-pinned style build, so I just sanded them down with a dremel until it fit.

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Last edited by animator; 09-14-2008 at 03:55 PM.

09-14-2008,
03:24 PM

animator

#25 (permalink)

And so, putting the receiver aside for now, I moved on to the barrel and trunion.

big bird

These are PTR 91 barrels that came from PTR inc. One is 16", the other 18". I am using the 18" for this build.

Join Date: Sep


2002
Member # 13701
Location:
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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

Press the trunion onto the barrel. This was a fun experience. After pressing in the barrel, and checking my bolt gap, the
barrel needed to press in further. So I pressed it in further. Then, after checking the gap again, I needed to press my
barrel back out a bit. So I pressed it out a bit. Then, after checking the bolt gap again, I needed to press the barrel back
IN again. This went on a few more times before I decided to throw a stack of pennies into the trunion. These stopped the
barrel from jumping too far. Seemed to work pretty good...

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12/23/13, 7:18 PM

I was happy with a .015 bolt gap. Spec is anywhere from .010 to .020 if I'm remembering correctly. I set the bolt gap
before installing the trunion into the receiver. I've read alot of people doing it this way with no ill effects, but to be safe, I
will check it again with it in the receiver before pinning the barrel and welding the trunion.

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