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VOLUME 11 NO. 113
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
FEEL THE EARTH RUMBLE TO THE STAMPEDE OF RACING BUFFALOES IN THE MAKEPUNG GRAND PRIX OF WEST BALI
THIS HALLOWEEN, ENTER THE BACKDOOR TO THE ‘HAUNTED’ LAWANG SEWU – A CENTURIES OLD BUILDING IN SEMARANG, CENTRAL JAVA
ing bid A BRIGHT
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 1
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS
‘Om Swastyastu...’ Welcome to Bali and the Indonesian archipelago, and welcome to our October 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond. The island saw unique sights as this edition was going to press. Among the most notable was when 99 paragliders flew over Bali’s southern Bukit Peninsula on September 9, 2009. In a successful effort to set a new “official” Indonesian record of 99 paragliders aloft in a single occasion, Indonesian and international pilots began leaping off the gusty cliffs at 9 in the morning. Not satisfied with breaking only one record in a day, Indonesian athlete Dedi Arifianto set a longest flight record of 9 hours and 9 minutes, surpassing his record flight set on August 8, 2008 of 8 hours and 8 minutes. And with all those headlines of flying and hovering over the Bukit it brings back memories of our editor’s first tandem flight, at times having a go at the strings, and who dreamt that one day he could get his paraglider’s pilot license. But after four years his dream has yet become a reality. Tough luck! Then a long lost contributor rang us up again and said that she just took up tandem and wished to pursue piloting lessons, so has promised to share with us - and you - stunning aerial shots as well as her ‘soaring’ stories in a future edition. She just inspired us to get up to the Bukit and share the skies with the gulls again! One day, after the deadlines... For the time being, back on terra firma, please enjoy yet another full edition of Bali & Beyond. On the craft side let’s take a look at some beautiful beads that are seemingly unchanged by time, through Craft & Culture where history meets past and current fashion. For a bit of action we share with you the buffalo races in Jembrana, West Bali, the Balinese ‘buffalo grand prix’ known as Makepung, which first stemmed from the agricultural traditions of local farmers who developed a pastime that gradually evolved into an attractive and competitive event. And Beyond Bali, in this month’s spirit of Halloween, we ‘break into’ a historical site as Ve Handojo shares his spooky adventures, entering the backdoors of the ‘haunted’ Lawang Sewu – an over one century-old building in Semarang, Central Java, once a battle ground where thousands were killed. Or, for some peace and quiet, enjoy an elegant world-class botanical garden in the middle of Bogor, in this month’s Capital Corner. We hope you enjoy your time and adventures on the island and beyond. And while you’re at it, always keep safe. Read on and enjoy! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com
Murdani Usman is a freelance photojournalist and correspondent for various news agencies in Indonesia. View his shots at www.indobalifoto.com
Ve Handojo is a travel writer and horror film script writer. Check out his piece on the ‘haunted’ Lawang Sewu in Semarang, this time for Halloween.
Gustra uses photography as a medium to articulate and express his art. Cultural, human interest, travel and experimental photography are his subjects.
Donny Cahyadi is no stranger in our office. He continuously feeds us with fresh photos by the day. A shutter-happy guy who really enjoys what he does.
BALI & BEYOND
Deputy General Manager Managing Editor Editorial Assistant Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA firstname.lastname@example.org NYOMAN ARI GUNADI email@example.com NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI firstname.lastname@example.org A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA email@example.com MADE SUWARDANA firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising & MarComm. Manager F&A Supervisor GA & Personnel Adm Distribution Graphic Design Intern ANDI BEHANS email@example.com A.A. KETUT SUKERTI firstname.lastname@example.org I GEDE ADARA email@example.com NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA MARIA PUTRI KHARISMA
Contributors FADIL AZIZ (ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY), DONNY CAHYADI, NI KOMANG ERVIANI, GUSTRA, VE HANDOJO, NGURAH PRIMARTA, MURDANI USMAN, ERIK WIJAYA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
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THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S
October 2009 Volume 11 No. 113
CRAFT&CULTURE ABIDING BRIGHT BEADS Let’s take a look at beautiful beads unchanged by time, these ancient ornaments are still favored in the 21st century.
CAPITALCORNER WORLD CLASS GARDEN IN JAKARTA’S ‘BACKYARD’
Visit Bogor Botanical Gardens, a refreshing park in the town of Bogor, only 40 kilometers from the nation's capital city.
10 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
INVITE&INDULGE TRENDY ‘N FRIENDLY; FOR KIDS, TOO! The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta now boasts its newest spa addition with a special program it has created just for the little ones!
PHOTO COURTESY HARRIS HOTEL & RESIDENCES RIVERVIEW KUTA
PHOTO BY ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
October 2009 Volume 11 No. 113
Bright Blue Beads Photo courtesy TPG Images
SATIATE YOUR APPETITE FOR LUXURY
After admiring pieces in its elegant gallery, enter Jemme’s own chic café for some delectable cuisine.
36 PONDERINGPOINT SUN, SAND, SURF... ‘N BE PREPARED! Those tall towering structures with “BMG” on them that loom over you as you lay on the sand... Just what are they? 38 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS BOVINE BATTLES OF BALI’S WEST Buffaloes in Jembrana, West Bali are not only known for their agricultural significance in plowing rice fields but also for sprinting side-by-side in racing competitions.
14 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
PHOTO BY NI KOMANG ERVIANI
BEYONDBALI BREAKING INTO LAWANG SEWU
This Halloween, enter the backdoors of Lawang Sewu in Semarang, once a battle ground where thousands were killed.
TO THE AROMA
Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel opens its newly renovated Sanur Harum Restaurant, following a two-month facelift. Sanur Harum now not only boasts a new look but has also relocated to the ground floor creating easier access to the hotel’s main features. The modern, classy and chic new look fits nicely with the reputation of being one of the most popular Chinese Restaurants in the Sanur area. The dining outlet offers the finest Chinese cuisine, including Peking Duck and Hot and Sour Seafood Soup “Sichuan Style”, and the all time favourite of “All you can eat Dim Sum Luncheon”. Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel & Suites, Jalan Hang Tuah 46 Sanur, (0361) 281-781; www.sanurparadise.com
FINE DINING: “BENVENUTO!”
Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali welcomes its new Italian Chef Andrea Ferrero to its Italian restaurant, IL Ristorante. With over 12 years of culinary experience, Chef Ferrero joined The Bulgari Resort in Bali after working as Executive Sous Chef at Vivaldi, the Italian fine dining restaurant within the Sheraton Hotel Dubai. Chef Ferrero has received several awards and accolades with medals from the United Kingdom’s Hotel Olympia and Salon Culinaires in Alassio City, Liguria. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu, (0361) 847-1000; www.bulgarihotels.com
The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, presents its promotions for the month of October 2009. Experience Lavish Lobsters every Monday night at Ocean Terrace Beach Front Dining from 7pm onwards. Chef de Cuisine Nyoman Wijana creates 4 different menu options to savour lavish lobster as you dine and enjoy the breeze. Round off the experience by selecting from the finest wine collection from around the world available at the restaurant; priced at Rp. 600,000++ per person. Tastes of Italy “Bellissomo” is every Wednesday night at Café Lagoon from 7pm onwards, featuring a fine spread of Italian delicacies including chilled sweet rock melon with Parma ham, freshly baked gourmet pizzas, homemade pastas, and mouth-watering desserts; priced at Rp. 350,000 net per person. Also Mayang Sari Restaurant features An Exotic Night in Bali every Saturday night, where Chef de Cuisine Ida Bagus Oka creates 3 different Rijstaffel options. The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-327; www.luxurycollection.com/bali Balinese surfer Randy Dinar has renewed his contract with Billabong, continuing the dynamic collaboration. 20 year-old Randy has been surfing for Billabong for over 5 years now and has been on surf trips all over Indonesia. Wayan “Kopling” Wirtama, Billabong’s SE Asia Team & Events Coordinator stated, “We will help him to score those photo and video shoots and I’m sure he’s going to produce a lot of great stuff.” www.billabong.com
14 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
InterContinental Bali Resort announces the launch of ‘A Taste of Bali’, an interactive cooking class focused on local seafood. The session starts with an early morning visit to the nearby Jimbaran traditional fish market to pick the freshest catch of the day. Back at the resort the cooking gets underway at midday with an informal demonstration on how to prepare chosen items. All efforts in the kitchen culminate in a delicious lunch that is served at Bella Singaraja restaurant. ‘A Taste of Bali’ is priced at US$ 50++ per person and includes transportation, tuition and cooking ingredients. Classes are held every Friday and advance reservations through the Resort Concierge are highly recommended. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888
KEEP ON WATCH!
Bulgari introduces a new limited edition watch for the Bulgari Hotels and Resorts, Bali. Conceived to be a “must-have”, the Bulgari Diagono Aluminium limited edition “Bali” watch combines the core values of unique Italian design with top Swiss watch-making expertise. The extremely elaborate 44 mm case of this chronograph is enhanced by the bold combination of carbon fiber. To match the design requirements and the highest quality standards, the timepiece features an internal steel structure that has been coated with a carbon fiber layer. The watch is available in two versions –automatic movement and date with and without chronograph. The limited edition numbers are engraved on the back case and ‘BALI’ on the dial. This timepiece will be retailing exclusively at the Bulgari Hotels and Resorts, Bali. 350 nonchronograph pieces and 150 pieces with chronograph are available. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu, (0361) 847-1000; www.bulgarihotels.com
FRESH ‘N LIVE
Strolling along Kuta Sidewalk, part of the Ramayana Hotel Complex, you will discover the magnificent “Seafood House” that features the first imported live seafood in Bali. Ocean delights with a Cantonese style menu serve the tastiest live seafood. Seafood House features a VIP room with karaoke, function room, seating capacity of 232, and live seafood aquariums on display for you to select your favorite dishes. Also featured are the Beijing duck and a chicken barbeques. Seafood House, Complex Kuta Sidewalk, Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta, (0361) 763-900 www.rama-restaurants-bali.com
THREE IN ONE
October is a monumental time for The Haven, the newest hotel situated by the main street of Seminyak. The Haven is close to the boutique shopping arcades, array of restaurants, the hippest night spots and the famous beaches which are all within easy walking distance. The concept is “three in one” - one location with three choices of accommodation: suites, hotel, and villas. The suites and villas have seen its launch recently. The hotel also serves guests healthy and delicious cuisine at its Sabeen Restaurant as well as relaxation at its Atma Spa. The Haven, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500, Kuta (0361) 738-001; www.thehavenbali.com
16 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
ON THE PENINSULA
The Royal Santrian is introduced as a luxury boutique villa on the picturesque sands of Bali’s Tanjung Benoa. It is set on over 2.5 hecatres of tropical gardens and offers 22 villas and an elegant ocean front restaurant. Special introductory rates are available for a stay through November 15; Royal Villa at US$ 700++ and Deluxe Villa at US$ 465++, rates inclusive of accommodation in luxury villa with private pool and day bed, welcome drink and face towel upon arrival, daily breakfast and daily afternoon tea served in the restaurant or in the privacy of the villa, shuttle services and 24-hour butler service. The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, (0361) 778-181 www.theroyalsantrian.com
SMOOTH ‘N SOOTH...
Spa at Bali Hyatt introduces its new treatment, the Cashmere & Silk treatment. Discover the beauty of silky-soft and relaxed skin with the pure Cashmere and Silk treatment from Biodroga. Enjoy a relaxing wave and a gently stimulating dry peel with silk gloves, followed by a relaxing head and ear massage, as well as a calming foot massage. Your skin is then powdered with precious silk powder for a soft, shimmering finish. This 90-minute treatment is at USD 85 per person, subject to 21% tax and service charge. Reservations recommended. Spa at Bali Hyatt, (0361) 281-234 extension 8200 www.hyattpure.com
Conrad Bali’s award-winning Jiwa Spa has been rejuvenated with the addition of stunning new garden spa pavilions, an expanded holistic wellness programme and a new level of skincare pampering using marine-inspired Thalgo beauty products. The five new spa garden pavilions feature indoor and outdoor treatment areas surrounded by a tropical water garden. They will also use the spa’s new treatment menu, developed in collaboration with Thalgo, the premier French skincare line. The Spa menu offers highly advanced therapies based on the algae and active marine-based Thalgo skin and body products, as well as natural treatments based on ancient Indonesian traditions. Conrad Bali, (0361) 778-788; www.conradbali.com
The Bali Concierge now offers a more concise selection of luxury hospitality services to anticipate the needs of seasoned travelers visiting the island. This complete range of services now involves sourcing the very best in luxury accommodation from international star-rated hotels to private villas in inspiring locations. The Bali Concierge also takes care of all transportation needs for the convenience of travelers during their time in Bali. A private limousine transfer and helicopter charter is a privileged opportunity to explore the island in true style. Customized shopping tours are also a specialty where a consultant versed in the art of luxury shopping is on hand to escort clients. The Bali Concierge Jl. Raya Kuta 88r, (0361) 766-880; www.thebaliconcierge.com
18 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
iding Ab BRIGHT
20 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
Since ancient times, women indeed cannot be parted from their urge to adorn. They use many ways to reach that goal and maintain it, and beads are one among the many mediums.
et’s take a look at some beautiful beads that are seemingly unchanged by time. These ancient ornaments are still favored today.
threads of beads that came from an archeological excavation at some historical sites in Bali. There they were complemented by descriptions such as that the advent of the architectural age in Bali occurred between 600 and 800 AD. At the time techniques in forging metal and casting those into various items had been found. Besides producing household utensils, ceremonial items, and sharp weaponry, the metal “industry” back then also produced decorative jewelry and ornamental items such as bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. One of the products that formed the larger part of the items included ornate beads. A friend who once majored in archeology said that the local name for beads, manik-manik, has true origins in the Indonesian archipelago. The Balinese have known beads as small beautiful pieces for adorning one’s self. The Aceh lexicon also states that manik-manik are golden seeds the size of coriander that can be threaded for necklaces. Clearly odds and ends of
Among my childhood memories
that still linger in my mind are beads. I remember so many of my school teachers crafted beads as a side job. Back then I was astonished at how they used their spare time apart from teaching in the class, doing productive things while trading jokes with other staff and not forgetting about their core duty, Years after, then I understood that it was not only practiced by my teachers but also by many housewives for side income. Beads are unique and pretty little things that are favored by women. Requests for beads as jewelry or textile ornaments are always high. While paying a visit to the Bali Museum in Denpasar, I saw several
PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN
When technology advanced and suited to the natural conditions of each locale, humans started to produce beads from various materials such as bone, teeth, stones, and other varieties.
PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN
manik-manik are not only found in Bali but over nearly all the islands in Indonesia. Since ancient times, women indeed cannot be parted from their urge to adorn. They use many ways to reach that goal and maintain it, and beads are one among the many mediums. Archeological findings in Algeria and Israel revealed beads aged 100,000 years old. It is presumed the beads were used as jewelry. When technology advanced and suited the natural conditions of each locale, humans started to produce beads from various materials such as bone, teeth, stones, and other materials. During the age of metal, they also made use of gold, silver, and bronze. As times advanced, more and more alternatives have emerged such as synthetic materials. Just take a stroll around Kuta then to Seminyak, Ubud, and Sanur. The small stalls offer beads and colorful laces of
various shapes and sizes. Starting from those purely used for body decorations such as bracelets and necklaces, then on to those used to adorn clothing. This business grew rapidly due to its positive prospects. La Paste, an art place on Jalan Raya Seminyak, offers a mixture of beaded jewelry from various materials, from locally crafted shells to stones specially imported from China. The prices also vary. As the prices are negotiable, each customer can get a different price depending on their bargaining skills. One of the staff at La Paste explained that the demands for bead crafts are still high. The owner already has four art shops with similar products on offer at each location. Beads promise a good business for the domestic as well as international markets. Models and designs on offer are quite varied as well. Several art shop owners
mentioned that bead designs are chosen by the crafters. However, designs only do not make a shop different from the others. Many shops that line up side by side are generally in tight competition on pricing and production capacity. One unique design quickly rises to mass production in Kuta. The bead crafters do not protect their work under legitimate property rights. Consumers thus easily ask for their different models to be designed, then they also request for other crafters to work on that model at a lower production price. This has not only been the case experienced by bead crafters from Madura, but also by local crafters. Limited information on property rights has caused them to be reluctant to protect their own creativity. “Producing rights on design and patents indeed require a lot of time at no little cost. If I patent my sandal design for instance (pointing at a sandal priced less than 50,000 rupiah), how much would I need to spend? How much profit would I get from there?” said Nino, owner of Nino art shop on Jalan Double Six when I asked why he didn’t patent his designs. The necklace crafter at La Paste didn’t say much about the topic. They usually would be mad and disappointed but felt
PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN
PHOTO BY MURDANI USMAN
Beads haven’t gone through so many changes in recent times. The materials also range from colorful stones, shells, bones, metal and wood.
could do nothing whatsoever. A different atmosphere can be felt at B Design, an art shop on Jalan Double Six. This Australian-owned shop implements a “photography forbidden” rule in the shop. Here we can also see that their designs on offer are quite unique and differ from other shops. It is no wonder that foreigners understand design patents more than the locals do. Their views on intellectual property are also more individualistic than communal. Beads have not gone through many changes in recent times. From the beginning to this day, we still can perceive its presence as an adornment item. The materials also range from colorful stones, shells, bones, metal and wood.
This craft is also pretty much manual labor. Each jewelry item requires a special touch and each craftsman and user has specific senses. They choose beads that can represent their taste and personality. I didn’t carry out a major survey on bead crafting, but at a glance I can see that Westerners hire several staff in their stores to craft beads, Madurese bring along their kith and kin to work, and the Balinese distribute the labor to housewives or their daughters in their neighborhood. And that must have been why as a child who was raised in Bali, this all felt so familiar. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photos by Donny Cahyadi
he Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta broke new ground by offering a simple unique and friendly stay. It features 4 swimming pools, Harris
services. The Tauzia managed hotel and residence further pushes its ‘Simple, Unique and Friendly’ concept, since its Grand Opening in July this year. The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta is located in a strategic area of Kuta, only 15 minutes from the airport, 10 minutes from the famous Kuta beach, and 5 minutes from the nearby Legian shopping district. The hotel features 133 appointed guestrooms including one-bedroom and two- bedrooms suites and 52 residences, complete with an onsite parking area, 24hour reception service, a business corner, 6 meeting rooms, elevator/lifts, free Wi-Fi,
a Harris Boutique, onsite medical services with a doctor on call, a Dino Kids Club and kid’s pool. Guestroom facilities include air conditioning, in-room safes, tea/coffee making facilities, LCD TVs, satellite TV, mini bar, separate bathroom with shower, IDD telephone and laundry services. Dining and entertainment include a Harris Café as a signature restaurant serving Asian and Western delights and a fresh Juice Bar. Harrissimo offers Italian cuisine and live wooden baked pizzas with a capacity of up to 55 seats. It also features the H Spa and its ‘Happy Feet’
Cafe for all day dining, Harrissimo, a casual dining restaurant featuring modern Italian cuisine, a Dino Kid’s Club, spa-reflexology service, and distinctive meeting and event space for business with free Wi-Fi. And now it further introduces its newest spa addition with a special program it has created just for the little ones! The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta continues to invite energetic couples to its expanded facilities and
N FRIENDLY FUNKY ‘
The Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta continues to invite energetic couples and families to its range of facilities and services.
26 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
reflexology. The spa will have treatments ranging from Balinese massage, ‘Shiat Shuuh’ massage and poultice facial treatments, and also a 20-finger massage highlight with two therapists, warm herbal ball massages, color baths, a kid’s spa, and they’re also issuing spa gift certificates for guests who want to treat their friends. The fresh new accommodation and leisure on the block in Kuta is a part of Tauzia Hotel Management, which already has a few Harris Hotels onboard in Indonesia. Tauzia developed the Harris concept as a fun and original concept in
leisure and business hotels. The Harris Hotels concept captures a modern, young and trendy style. As Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta’s General Manager once expressed during its preliminary media gatherings, the hotel will mostly comprise domestic and Asian markets. The hotel saw its soft opening on April 13, and from that day on they have received very good feedback from the people who came to stay. For a month since the soft opening, they had already
had some days at 90% occupancy. And with onward high prospects, Harris Hotel and Residences Riverview Kuta now warmly welcomes families as it has created a special program just for kids. The Kids Spa program at H-Spa offers everything the little traveler needs for a journey to their first spa experience. The distinctive service of simple-uniquefriendly associated with the Harris Hotels and Resorts experience is embodied in The Kid’s Spa at H’Spa, now open at
IDS, TOO! FOR THE K
The distinctive service of ‘simple-unique-friendly’ associated with the Harris Hotels and Resorts experience is embodied in The Kid’s Spa at H’Spa, now open at Harris Hotel and Residences Riverview Kuta.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 27
Check out Harris Cafe for all day dining and Harrissimo for a casual dining restaurant featuring modern Italian cuisine.
Dining and entertainment include a Harris Café as a signature restaurant serving Asian and Western delights and a fresh Juice Bar. Harrissimo offers Italian cuisine and live wooden baked pizzas with a capacity of up to 55 seats.
Tauzia developed the Harris concept as a fun and original concept in leisure and business hotels, capturing a modern, young and trendy style.
Harris Hotel and Residences Riverview Kuta Bali. Featuring a select arrangement with natural products by H’Spa, The Kids Spa at H’Spa envelops its little guests in services geared toward wellness and inner health. Ensuring that each guest’s experience is personally tailored down to the smallest detail is the Kids Spa. A signature of H’Spa, the Kids Spa attends to every little traveler needs along the journey, first assisting their little guests who book a signature service with their selection of a kiddies robe, surprising them with the bubble balloon, prince or princess
tiara, then assists with selecting a locker; preparing and expertly presenting a refreshing choice from the Kids Spa Menu; and guiding the little spa-goer through the Cute Princess or Prince Experiences. This water ritual involves a choice of Color Foot Bath, a gentle body brushing to stimulate the blood circulation, a gentle massage using Lavender massage oil which is suitable for kids, and a Revitalizing Body Mask that incorporates unique aromatherapy through the use of Strawberry or Chocolate for a truly unique experience. Oils and masks are handselected from the Essentials Treatment Bar
The hotel features 133 appointed guestrooms including one-bedroom and two- bedrooms suites and 52 residences, a business corner, 6 meeting rooms, and a Harris Boutique.
The kids spa for little travelers!
to complete and fully enhance the ritual. The Kids Spa at H’Spa accepts children from 7 – 10 years old accompanied by their parents, or have the parents sign for any treatment not accompanied by them. The Harris Hotels & Resorts brand is currently represented by five properties in Indonesia and launched by Tauzia Hotel Management in December 2003. With the “Simple-Unique-Friendly” concept, Harris Hotels & Resorts provide a concept, brand, and lifestyle perfectly fitted to the new Asian mid-scale trend. Additional hotel projects under development; Harris
30 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
Hotel Kelapa Gading Jakarta, Harris Hotel and Residences Solo, in 2010, Harris Hotel Sentul, Harris Hotel Tangerang, Harris Hotel Yogyakarta, Harris Hotel Denpasar in 2011, and Harris Hotel Batam Centre in 2012. ■ ■ Harris Hotel & Residences Riverview Kuta; Jl. Raya Kuta 62A, (0361) 761-007 www.harris-riverview-bali.com ■ Tauzia Hotel Management, Wisma Adhi Graha, 17th Floor Jl. Jend Gatot Subroto Kav 56 Jakarta; www.tauzia.com
Enhancing its lavish appeal as Bali’s premier luxury jeweler, Café Jemme further entices its boutique patrons to a world of elegance, romance and lavishness through fulsome cabinets of diamonds and gems – and fine dining with the freshest organic ingredients and decadent interiors.
YOUR APPETITE FOR
jewellery crafter and proprietor Aziz and his team have crafted the eclectic pieces of eardrops, chains, chokers, necklaces, rings, pendants and signed items – to name a few – blending them together with the finest exclusive diamonds and unusual and handpicked stones in its vast collection. Adjoining the main boutique space is the cozy seating area that just happens to border with Café Jemme next door, which also leads to an idyllic terrace with a view.
32 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
emme broke ground mid2007 with its striking boutique smack-dab on a slightly curving wayside and set aside a rice field down on Petitenget road, where Jemme’s
Here, after getting lost gazing at each of the heavenly items in the boutique, you can allow yourself to unwind and take in the fresh air and open view of the calming rice field, which somehow is reassuring in that you know you are still in Bali and haven’t taken off to a distant world... Here you can sip your heart away with a refreshing selection of bracing beverages, and recollect your most favorite piece of jewellery over light menu selections prepared with the freshest organic ingredients, harvested from Jemme’s own organic farmland in Negara, in Bali’s western highlands. The café saw its grand opening on an auspicious full moon in August, where fine dinners become ever more impressive
with subtle candlelight and luminous chandeliers that enhance the glimmer of the precious stones and jewels - multi-color jeweled necklaces fit for a queen, diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald cocktail rings, Jemme’s ‘2-Tone’ collections in 18ct white gold, and Deco inspired pieces in 18 ct white gold – all behind their glass displays. The combination of a delectable selection on the menu and the sparkles and luminous petites makes way for an exceptional appetite for luxury. The café has a vast beverage list ranging from light drinks, coffees and teas to hot chocolate and iced drinks. For a refreshing cool down during a hot day, drop by for Jemme’s fresh mixes served on crushed ice with soda water, including Blueberry Swoon, various smoothies, fresh and mixed fruit juices and shakes. On the ‘deeper’ beverage side, try out the Jemme Martinis, and the one that suits the characteristic lavender hues of Jemme’s interior: the Lychee & Lavender Martini. All of its martini cocktails may be ordered with Grey Goose premium vodka. Also on the drink list are a selection of premium spirits, liqueurs, wines and champagnes. Jemme specialty starters include a mixed appetizer comprised of crispy deep-fried prawns and sea salt calamari, Jamaican chicken satay, fish prawn cake and smoked marlin. This is served together with a mixed salad of Nam Jim salad dressing with potato, sweet corn and avocado, mango and tamarind relish with lemon mayonnaise. For mouthwatering desserts, especially for those romantic candlelight dinners for two, opt for among the others on the menu the “Tasting for Two”, an “indulging combination of Café Jemme’s most popular desserts for those who cannot quite make up their mind”. This comprises chocolate pudding, applemacadamia spring rolls, banana in custard, apple and lychee crumble, heart-shaped cookies and two generous scoops of ice cream. Or go for the dark and tempting After ‘8’ Martini, a blend of vodka, Crème de Cacao, chocolate milk mint and cream. A white version, the Raspberry Milky Bar Martini blends vodka with raspberry, white Tryout Jemme’s specialty starters such as this, which includes a wide mixture of delights.
chocolate and cream. This is absolutely gorgeous! Jemme has catered to a wide range of international and national customers alike and takes care of them well. Treating its guests to its café the same as it would to its boutique patrons, assures satisfaction for both individual and group guests. Also catering to the latter particularly, Jemme Gallery and Café recently invited members of the Bali International Women’s Association to come and enjoy champagne cocktails and canapés while viewing beautiful items. For ladies who lust for luxury, what could have been better than enjoying champagne and shopping for sophisticated ornaments and their latest collection of diamonds, 18ct white gold, and gem-set jewels. When in search of an idyllic all day dining spot with a scrumptious lunch and dinner menu selection, whether it be an indoor setting within a mini gallery full of assorted gleaming precious gems to admire, or an alfresco garden scene with a view to an flanking rice field, drop by at the turn in Petitenget where Café Jemme is distinctively sited. The café is open Monday to Saturday from 11 am until late. ■ ■ Café Jemme, Jl. Raya Petitenget No.28, Kerobokan, (0361) 732-392
‘N BE PREPARED!
Those tall towering structures with “BMG” on them that loom over you as you lay on the sand... just what are they?
PHOTO BY NI LUH DIANN PURNIAWATI
o, they are definitely not some sort of newly installed, locally built, cellular telecommunications services or relay
towers... they are part of the Tsunami Early Warning System (TEWS) - developed by the Indonesian Meteorology and Geophysics Agency (BMG). With Bali’s southern coasts being the most densely populated and busiest coastal tourist locations, and with the aftermath of the 2004 Indian Ocean undersea mega thrust earthquake fresh in mind - not to mention our string of islands bedded smack-dab over the so called Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, constant alert and anticipation is certainly a high priority. To date the towers’ sirens are supposed to be triggered by BMG in Jakarta. In the near future the responsibility for the triggering will be transferred to the local government. There is no automatic triggering. So far tsunami warnings are generated by BMG Jakarta and disseminated to the local decision makers, the media, etc. The warnings from BMG and the media will not contain evacuation orders. This is
the sole responsibility of the local decision makers and it is up to them to notify the community at risk. The sirens are tested on the 26th of every month for 1 minute. However that does not mean that the sirens will be started, usually it is just a low warning tone or a voice announcement. The sirens have a reach of several kilometers. Once they are triggered people should as fast as possible move as far as possible away from the beach and as high up as possible. From the initial tsunami triggering earthquake to the arrival of the wave you have only approximately 30 minutes time, so you need to be fast. If horizontal evacuation is not an option one should try to get into the third floor of buildings with strong, steel enforced concrete columns. An important natural warning sign is the fast and vast withdrawal of the waterline. However if that happens a tsunami is already very imminent and there is not much time left. As a rule of thumb: if you feel a strong earthquake by the sea, get to higher ground, you never know. A tsunami is usually not just one wave, it is a series of waves. The 2nd and 3rd can be taller than the first one. Once at a sheltered location one should wait for an “all clear” before returning to lower areas. If one can’t get an official “all clear” one should stay away from the beach for at least 1 hour!
Bali Hotels Association (BHA) linked itself directly to BMG in Jakarta and generates its own tsunami warning sms so as to be informed and ready as reliably as possible. In case of a tsunami alarm all member hotels receive a BHA tsunami warning sms. BHA hotels are amongst the best prepared in Indonesia. That a hotel is prepared for a tsunami and offering shelter is visible if hotels have installed the red tsunami evacuation route arrows. Here are some of the designs, showing you what they should look like. Recently on September 10 a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) signing ceremony at the Ramada Benoa Hotel marked the successful preparation of the sub-district of Tanjung Benoa in becoming ‘tsunami ready’. An initiative of GTZ-GITEWS and Bali Hotels Association (BHA) assisted by the Indonesian Red Cross empowered the village of Tanjung Benoa to cooperate with the local hotel industry to jointly prepare for a tsunami. Until recently the village of Tanjung Benoa lacked suitable evacuation space for the community. The people had nowhere to go as almost all village buildings with the exception of local hotels are not suitable to be utilized as tsunami shelters. That was changed when the village and the local hotel industry agreed on a joint evacuation space, an evacuation trigger, evacuation procedures and codes of conduct. From now on nine Tanjung Benoa hotels will open their doors to the community at risk in case one of the towers sounds their alarm. The initiative is a good example of cooperation in disaster risk reduction for the public and private sector and will serve as a template for future ‘tsunami ready’ cooperation in Indonesia. ■ Bali Hotels Association (BHA) Secretariat PHRI Office, Bali Tourism Board Building, Jl. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasar, (0361) 227-600 www.balihotelsassociation.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 37
However, in any emergency situation, it is up to every single person to be aware and knowledgeable of the points and evacuation procedures should such a disaster occur. The Indonesian Ministry of Culture and Tourism (MenBudPar) cooperating closely with the Bali Hotels Association (BHA), have also developed a ‘Tsunami Ready Toolkit’ which is geared to assist hotels to prepare for tsunamis. The initiative is supported by the German Centrum für Migration und Entwicklung (CIM). The toolkit consists of a collection of fact sheets and background information papers on subjects like Information Sources, Department Closedown Procedures, Beach Evacuation, Planning of Evacuation Routes, Location of Evacuation Spots, Best Practice Examples, Natural Warning Signs, etc. A version of the toolkit can be downloaded as a pdf file from: http://www. my-indonesia.info/filedata/4114_888CompleteTsunamiReady.pdf ■ (Editor’s note: thanks to Alexander Kesper, Advisor to the Indonesian Ministry of Culture and Tourism (BUDPAR) in providing the valuable information). ■ Ministry of Culture and Tourism Jl. Medan Merdeka Barat No. 17, 22nd Floor Jakarta, (021) 383-86-19 www.my-indonesia.info
Bovine Battles of Bali’s West
38 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
PHOTOS BY NGURAH PRIMARTHA
PHOTO BY NI KOMANG ERVIANI
On a determined day, the buffalo owners start to ‘makeup and dress’ their ‘athletes’.
Makepung, first stemmed from the agricultural traditions of the local farmers, who sought after a pastime that gradually evolved into an attractive and competitive event.
uffaloes in Jembrana, West Bali are not only known for their agricultural significance in plowing rice fields but also at sprinting side-by-
the second ‘chariot’ is within less than 10 meters, then it comes out as winner. The tracks are usually completed within eight to ten minutes each heat. At first the competitions were sparked from the plowing groups of the traditional Balinese subak irrigational organizations in the village of Dangin Tukad, district of Mendoyo in the Jembrana regency. As tractors weren’t introduced yet, the farmers were used to plowing the lands by raw buffalo power. The labor was carried out simultaneously over all the fields. And when all the plowing was done, the idle buffalo power met with the creative minds of the farmers – as well as the competitive spirit among the herdsmen to show “who has the fittest pair of horned beasts” – thus the barren parts of the fields turned into proving fields, and so began the races. The events in the village grew into spectacles. The buffaloes charge at full gallop, eyes glittering, sharp hoofs hurling divots of racetrack dirt. An event followed suit by teams of other subak groups in the neighboring vicinities. Makepung became a regular attraction
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 39
side in racing competitions. This Balinese ‘buffalo grand prix’ is best known as Makepung, which first stemmed from the agricultural traditions of the local farmers who sought after a pastime, then gradually evolved into an attractive and competitive Makepung, freely translated from its Balinese means ‘act of chasing’. And in accordance to this designation, two buffaloes are fixed to a small cart while a jockey rides with baton in hand; and two of these valiant ‘charioteers’ race with their muscular horned chargers towards the finish line. Yet to become the champion a general condition applies, where the remaining distance between the first ‘chariot’ and the next must be a minimum of 10 meters. The jockeys put in much effort so that both of their buffaloes are steered in synchrony and make it to the finish line head on. If
PHOTOS BY GUSTRA
in the muddy fields. Consequently imaginable is the flying mud in every race, where all race committee members, jockeys, and audience near the track are splattered in the amusing havoc. The events then further developed. Several rules were made with changes. Buffaloes no longer draw wooden plows but the jockeys’ rides what now more resembles wheeled chariots. And race tracks were no longer in rice fields but on dirt roads. And with the absence of mud, buffaloes and jockeys dressed up. Buffaloes not only were adorned with bells around their necks but also horns ornate with colorful headdresses. These races are held not only during the irrigational seasons but twice every two months in an
40 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
annual agenda, especially in preparation for the further evolved and sanctioned ‘Regent’s Cup’ or Piala Bupati held every August and the ‘Governor’s Cup’ or Piala Gubernur every November. Makepung aficionados and race participants in Jembrana are divided into two groups, namely Ijo Gading Timur (east) and Barat (west), like the names of the river that runs through the town of the Jembrana regency’s capital of Negara. Both of these groups will face off in the official race every two weeks. In the month of June every year the makepung organization holds a meeting to decide when and where the race circuits would be held that year. In the month of July biweekly races will be held up until the end
of the Governor’s Cup in November. There currently exist 6 circuits, namely the village of Tuwed, Delod Berawah, Kaliakah, Mertasari, Pengundelan, and Awed. Circuits average about 1.5 kilometers long. Only two pairs of buffaloes race and each lap takes about 10 minutes. A day before the races, each participant will come and bring along their best buffaloes. The beasts are raised and treated well as if they were athletes. Kadek Mara, Makepung coordinator of the regency of Jembrana, confesses that even he provides his buffaloes with the best selection of grass and feed. “If given the wrong diet, my buffaloes can fall ill. It came in first place the last time,” he said boasting pride of his pair which he
There currently exist 6 circuits, namely the village of Tuwed, Delod Berawah, Kaliakah, Mertasari, Pengundelan, and Awed.
Now the makepung buffaloes no longer tend the rice ﬁelds. They are sought after and raised strictly for competition.
gave the title name of Prabu Angin Ribut – loosely ‘Lords of Hurricane’. In obtaining the buffaloes he paid around 50 million rupiah each. It is easily imaginable, of what sort of people would and could become race-buffalo owners - usually those of wealth and nobility. Kadek Mara for instance, besides being the village chief, also runs a furniture manufacturing business and admits to owning several other trades. No wonder he has up to four ‘chargers’ in his ‘garage’. Farmers usually only tend to their buffaloes. Now the makepung buffaloes no longer tend the rice fields. They are sought after and raised strictly for competition. On a determined day, the buffalo owners start to ‘makeup and dress’ their
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 41
‘athletes’. And typically Balinese, they never forget to carry out small rituals of offerings and blessings for safety and… victory. The offerings are usually placed at the start and finish line, and around the accident prone areas of the race track. They pray to the guardian spirits of the area for the safety of all the participants. Makepung lately has become the only attraction involving animals on the island. Before, the regency of Buleleng, North Bali was famous for its similar Sapi Gerubugan. But lately this event has seen scarcity, and the last recorded event was during the
42 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
Sail Indonesia tie-in in 2007. Meanwhile, Makepung is held nearly every month in different locations. The Jembrana Regency Government Tourism Office explained that the Makepung events will be held at least two more times before the end of this year, dates being October 11 for practice runs at the Delod Berawah village and November 1 for the Governor’s Cup in the village of Tuwed in the district of Melaya. To reach both of the villages, you need to travel about 120 km from Kuta or around 3 hours.
Makepung can become a unique tourism attraction. Besides “chasing” bovine beasts, we can also discover more of the less explored western Bali
Accommodations are available in the 14 hotels in the town of Negara. From Negara you only need an hour and a half to reach the village locations. One that can be opted for is Jimbarwana, run by the local regency government, is fully furnished and facilitated. Makepung can become a unique tourism attraction. Besides “chasing” bovine beasts, you can also discover more of the less explored western Bali that is by no means less unique than the other known areas of the island. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati Photos by Murdani Uman
PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN
I have heard about how haunted the building is, and so put it into my afternoon schedule. However, I woke up too early, then had too much breakfast, so I took a walk around the hotel. It was not yet seven in the morning. There were signs of life around the back door of this enchanting building that was built in 1903 and completed in 1907. Street vendors were still resting on the broken benches and their small food stalls had not yet welcomed visitors, who would
44 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
awang Sewu is located just around the corner of the hotel where I was staying during my short visit to Semarang in Central Java. Like other horror junkies
start flooding the complex during the next two hours. A few of them had started cooking, though. One or two of them took a glance at me, and quickly judged that I wasn’t a threat. That gave me enough confidence to step inside the damp lawn. Just like the building, the lawn was not perfectly manicured nor maintained. Fatal ageing results in balding. The sole source of nutrition for the grass came from the dew, and surely that was not enough to restore its youth. The surface of the orange-and-beige colored building was mostly cracked and fading. It really endorsed the infamous image of Lawang Sewu of being old, and – most importantly – scary. I took a walk around the lawn, in
awe of how strong the structure that Dutch architects Professor Jacob F. Klinkhamer and BJ Queendag had set for this masterpiece of theirs. For over six decades, the Indonesian Railways Corporation has enjoyed the status of owner, but maintenance remains low. Now they are in the process of refunctioning it as a train museum and an office block, and starting to do some renovations. Renovation is clearly different from conservation, especially when the budget for the first phase is no more than Rp 50 Million. What will USD 4,500 do to a huge three-storey building of over two hectares? Walls will simply be cemented, and that means shutting the pores and choking the inner parts of the structure that actually
Deserted scenes such as this hallway, and gothic features and windows of colored mozaic glass, add to the eerie nuance of the notorious building.
need some air. Furthermore, the cheap emulsion paint will never be a substitute for the authentic limestone coloring. And let’s not talk about how they are going to punish the building with careless nailing and hammering. The upcoming disturbance seemed to put the soul of Lawang Sewu into a state of unrest. This was firstly reflected by the barking of the dogs. Three of them ran towards me as I was getting closer and closer to the building. Though I’ve never owned any, I am naturally good friends with dogs. I understood their effort to warn me not to do any harm to the Thousand (Sewu) Doors (Lawang). I played Dr. Dolittle and convinced them that I only wanted to take pictures without flash.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 45
PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA
Ve Handojo entered a back door of the haunted Lawang Sewu – a centuries old building in Semarang that was once a battle ground where thousands were killed. The horror writer was thrilled.
PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA
The corridors and centercourt of the Lawang Sewu. A walk through the sad complex will change your life.
“I took a walk around the lawn, in awe of how strong the structure that Dutch architects Professor Jacob F. Klinkhamer and BJ Queendag had set for this masterpiece of theirs.”
The dogs gradually became friendly, then simply followed me around. The front door under the twin Gothic towers was shut, so I took a stroll along the outer hallway. High-ceilinged and decorated with countless arcs just like the usual Art Deco construction, the tiles of the corridor stood the test of time and tropical weather. Dirty laundry was shamelessly hung in the discreet back part of the alley. It finally led me to the interior of what used to be an office of Nederlandsch Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij – the Dutch railway company in the colonial era. My newly-found faithful friends kept on tailing me, giving me some air of protection. It was quite dark, as the morning sun’s rays couldn’t penetrate the walls. My footsteps echoed throughout the three-
storey building. I brought no flashlight, and my BlackBerry was no help in lighting the way. I walked towards a spot that seemingly had some beautiful light, silently hoping that it won’t be Heaven. Not now, please. The spot was actually the grand staircase with huge mozaic glass windows, beautifully decorating the main hall. Amidst the dark, the sun’s rays were filtered through the many colors of the window glass, creating a breathtaking interior view. I took the first step to climb upwards, and that’s when the dogs barked. “Don’t you dare go in there,” my inner Dr. Dolittle interpreted the barking. Too bad, my personality has split into another character, and that’s Dr. Jones looking for some trouble.
Ignoring the dogs, I climbed the stairs into the middle part where I could take a look outside through some cracks in the window glass. I saw a view of the huge backyard, possibly where the Five Days War took place in August 14-18, 1945. It is said that thousands died there. Across from the spot where I stood was the door that led downstairs to the underground prison, were captives were kept squatting, half drowned until they died. A fifteen minute walk through the sad complex will really change your life. And at that moment, those spirits knew I was looking at them. I turned around, facing the stairs that would lead me to the second floor. Dark, and harrowing, but tempting. I bit the forbidden fruit, and took my first step. Here, I have to tell you who I am, really. I make some of my fortune writing horror movie screenplays, and that means I also watch thousands of them. The 666-kid from The Omen, Sadako from The Ring, and the she-devil called Kuntilanak – I call
them all “inspirations”. Nothing scares me. I wrote my screenplays in the middle of the night, all by myself. I wrote “there is a whispering voice coming out of the woods” many times, knowing that some sound effect will work the magic. But Lawang Sewu is not a film studio. There was no hidden Bang & Olufsen speakers. There was no artificial wind blower. Yet, I physically felt a rush of wind inside the building, and heard some whispers. That was either not an “inspiration” or it actually got very real. Goose-bumped, I quickly took a dozen steps back and was reunited with my “guardians” downstairs, staring at me with the I-told-you-so look in their eyes. “You shouldn’t wander here alone!” This time it was no whisper and not a bark either. This time it was a voice coming from an upset middle-aged lady, creeping towards me out of the dark corridor. “The place is not open yet! You should pay some entrance fee! Some maintenance fee! And, you should write your name in the book!”
PHOTOS BY ERIK WIJAYA
JEPARA TEGAL PEKALONGAN SEMARANG PURWODADI REMBANG
UNGARAN PURWOKERTO TEMANGGUNG
Renovation is clearly different from conservation, especially when the budget for the ﬁrst phase is no more than Rp 50 Million. Oh, it’s the matron of the ghosts. As she grumbled, I wrote my name on the guest book – a fake one of course, to avoid some future voodoo works! – and slipped her Rp 20,000. She became much friendlier. “People get possessed just by wandering around here, you know. But now, it’s okay. You can go upstairs. It’s safe now. Go. Take a look at the attic, and the rooms.” Somehow her blessings rebooted my confidence and stopped that eerie, hair-rising whispering. Somehow the air got clear, and I could peacefully wander around the second story. Rooms felt empty and hollow. Even when lit by the sun, some corners still felt disturbing. There was an uncanny feeling that even stopped me from going to the attic, the third floor. With almost every step, I never stopped mentally saying, “Excuse me, I’m just taking some pictures,” to the “inhabitants” of Lawang Sewu. Well, they are either Dutch or Javanese – they both demand some respect and courtesy, especially when they’re a century old. My impromptu visit to Lawang Sewu ended right before the legal tourists started to enter the premise. They had excellent
PHOTO BY ERIK WIJAYA
tour guides and flashlights, but I liked mine – three local puppies who bid me farewell. I bid mine to them, and to their real masters. “Please don’t let the irresponsible souls who are not responsible in conserving this mansion of yours rest in peace.” ■
Fadil Aziz shares some of the scenes of the elegant world class botanical garden in the town of Bogor, 40 kilometers from Jakarta.
WORLD CLASS BOTANICAL GARDEN
IN JAKARTA’S ‘BACKYARD’
ometimes we tend to forget what we already have available just around the corner, even if it were a diamond jewel. And that is quite
Through the smooth Jagorawi ride, the hubbub of Jakarta gradually fades away into the scenic panorama of the Gunung Salak and Gunung Gede Pangrango mountain range on clear days. Arriving at the town of Bogor, set at an altitude of 260 meters above sea level, it is not so hard to find the nearly two century old gardens. Several hundred meters to the west of the toll road you will encounter large clumps of trees on the left side of the road that continuously encircle the presidential palace, Istana Bogor. You can’t miss it.
the case with the Bogor Botanical Gardens (BBG), an elegant world class botanical garden and refreshing park in the midst of the town of Bogor, only 40 kilometers from the central capital of Jakarta or an approximately 30 minutes drive through the Jagorawi toll road, the first highway built in the country.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
Entering the gardens and leaving the traffic-filled town of Bogor behind, the atmosphere changes. Your eyes will ease to the greenery. Meanwhile your ears suddenly become void of the pollution of decibels. Calm and cool are the two most apparent senses when entering this realm. The BBG was first designed by a then famous English Kew Botanical Garden horticulturist, boasting two main patterns: gardens with ponds arranged in intervals, with large wild forest-like clumps of trees. Here and there, benches are provided for visitors to take rests or to simply admire the view. Walking amongst the 14,000 extensive BBG collections, often you will find yourself at awe with nature’s creations. A simple example; suddenly you find yourself walking amidst the large and towering trees. You would easily feel minute compared to the trees. Your head would tilt straight up to see the top of the trees, and your arms would not be able to wrap around the enormous trunks. On other occasions you might find yourself looking straight down admiring the Victoria Amazonia, a water lily from
the Amazon with wide leaves. It is said that the strength of the leaves could hold a baby aloft and still not break the water’s surface. Or have a look at the roots of the emergent tropical rainforest tree species in the Fabaceae family, Koompassia Excelsa, that permeates the soil. Unlike other roots, it is shaped vertically thin as a wall but stretches widely. Whether it is the giant or the most subtle, you will surely be impressed.
esculenta) from the island of Batam. Also in its collection are the Eucalyptus from Australia and tobacco, vanilla, maize and coffee from the Americas, successfully cultivated from the Laboratorium Treub at the BBG. For the oil palms alone, the BBG has claimed that all of the plants in South East Asia have grown from seeds derived from the living specimens cultivated at the BBG (Indonesia and Malaysia are now producers of around 80% of the world’s palm oil). Rubber trees, litchi and quinine are several other species that were for the first time introduced through the BBG. Basic research on diseases that threaten plants of economical value such as coffee and sugar cane have also been first time world breakthroughs at BBG, thus the gardens have gained a worldwide reputation in terms of botanical research. Indonesia holds pride in them. BBG also has its share of notable figures. A number of world famous researchers indeed pay frequent visits to these gardens that function in ex situ conservation, research and recreation. Among the big names include Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles (also known as the
‘WORLD CLASS’ REPUTATION
With around 13,697 collections from all corners of Indonesia and several countries around the world,the gardens also boast an equally inspiring historical background. Its reputation as one of the first and oldest botanical gardens in Asia makes the BBG among the most important gardens in the world. Plants successfully cultivated here include: quinine (Chinciona sp) with its origins from Peru that make up most of the ingredients for the alleviation of malaria (1852), the oil palm or kelapa sawit (Elaeis guineensis) from West Africa (1848), cassava or ubi kayu (Manihot
Spending a whole day or just a couple of hours or even a few days is a breeze at the 85-hectare gardens. Best time to visit is in the mornings when dew still rests on leaves, and the air is still fresh with the aroma of damp soil and grass.
founder of Singapore), who wrote down his contribution here. This British Governor in Java, who had great interest in botany, sent W. Kent and James Hooper, the Kew horticulturists, to arrange the BBG that led to its current formation (the ‘stink bloom’ or the world’s largest flower, bunga bangkai. Rafflesia was “found” during his governing times in Bengkulu, or ‘Bencoolen’). It is even regarded as the birthplace of scientific research in Indonesia. It was here that several scientific institutes were born, such as the Bibliotheca Bogoriensis (1842), Herbarium Bogoriense (1844), Cibodas Botanical Gardens (1860), Laboratorium Treub (1884), the Zoological Museum and Laboratory (1894), and LIPI, the Indonesian official scientific research institute that was
52 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
the embryo of the BBG itself. The BBG library (1842) marked the advent of the bibliographical history in Indonesia with its initial collection of only 25 books. The BBG even contributed to the world of arts! Many are unaware that Raden Saleh, the country’s own painting maestro, started his livelihood at the BBG as a botanical and insect anatomy illustrator before getting a scholarship to study art in the Netherlands.
encounter the Lady Raffles Memorial that commemorates Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles’ wife who died in the Dutch East Indies. Straight north there is the Danau Gunting Lake, the largest at the BBG, that connects to the backyard of the Istana Bogor presidential palace. Several benches under large trees provide an ideal place to take in the serene and fresh mornings. In the middle of the lake there is a small island that has become the habitat of migrating ibis. At the west and east ends are the nests of the nocturnal kalong or fruit bats. Also in the west there is the oldest tree that shares the same age as the gardens, nearly two centuries old: a lychee tree (Litchi chinensis sonn). On the east of the lake, nearly inside
WORLD’S GREAT BIOLOGICAL TREASURE TROVES
Spending a whole day or just a couple of hours or even a few days is a breeze at the 85-hectare gardens. If you enter via the main entrance on the south you will
the ‘forest’, there is the home of one of the main highlights of the gardens: the Amorphopallus titanum that grows to an average height of twice an adult person. This flowering plant with the largest unbranched inflorescence in the world is said to bloom only once every 2-3 years. You must check out this botanical superstar at the entrance. Aquatic plants are easily found in each existing pond or lake. Large tree collections are spread all over. Among the most interesting are the Koompassia excelsa, not far east from the main entrance, and the forests border with the Istana Bogor across from the Danau Gunting includes a famous twin tree that sandwiches a bench (wood plants collection area / Dipterocarpoceae). Not far from there is a hanging bridge that is also frequented by visitors. Near the bridge is the Orchid Glass House, a relatively new facility that contains approximately 200 – 300 species of Indonesian orchids (around 10% of the total 3,000 species found all over Indonesia). Not all collections are open to the public, but nevertheless the ones available are amply satisfying. Fruit plants, creeping plants, palms, ferns, evergreens, bamboo and cycads are the other collections that can be seen. Unfortunately in 2006 a large storm swept over and tumbled many of the precious collections, among them a 127-year-old cinnamon tree, an 83-year-old pouteria firma, and a 100year-old parinari excelse sabine from Africa. Several BBG contacts stated that it would possibly require another African expedition to collect the specimen. Fortunately you can still see the Laboratorium Treub that has produced various high achievements in the world’s botanical history. Also the Conservation Museum and Seed Museum boast deferential collections, from the tiniest seeds to specimens the size of a soccer ball, and ‘flying’ seeds. Overwhelmed by the exploration of the gardens, you can opt for lunch or rest
for a while at Café de Daunan located near Astrid Avenue (named accordingly in honor of a Belgian princess who once visited in 1928 on her honeymoon with Prince Leopold; the avenue is adorned by black, red and yellow Agathis dammara and Canna hybrid, the colors of the Belgian flag).
• There are “Four Guided Walks of Bogor Botanical Gardens” to aide visitors to explore. • “Seri Koleksi” or Collection Series is the published botanical journal detailing the collections of plants in the garden, mostly in Bahasa Indonesia. • Guided Tours are available at the main entrance south of the gardens. Pak Ondidi is one of the garden’s knowledgeable senior guides, who is also fluent in several languages. • Bogor’s sister garden, Bali’s own botanical garden, is the Kebun Raya Ekakarya in Bedugul.
THE BEST TIME
If you consider avoiding visiting during the rainy season, you should think again. This is due to Bogor, being nicknamed “Kota Hujan” or the Rainy Town. It is showered upon 300 days in a year! The best time to visit is surely in the mornings when dew still rest on leaves, when frogs still can be found sitting on nymphea and the air is
still fresh with the aroma of damp soil and grass. Past midday you must be ready to face an occasional drizzle. If you can, avoid the weekends (when the crowds make most use of their time). On weekdays you will find the vast gardens all to yourself. The many things at the BBG, the garden itself, the greens, the large, odd and old trees, seeds, ponds, lakes and even streams will make for a seemingly
never-ending exploration. Several hotels around BBG can become bases to explore the gardens as well as the town of Bogor itself, of course. On a following day you might come across the Victoria Amazonia, which on the previous day was white but has now astonishingly turned red! ■ ■ Bogor Botanical Gardens (0251) 322-187, 311-362, 322-220
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009 53
ROTE OPEN 2009 TRIUMPHS
In a very closely contested 30 minute final at scenic Bo’a Beach on the East Indonesian island of Rote, Garut Widiarta narrowly defeated Marlon Gerber to bring home 20 million Rupiah (USD 2,000) and 3,500 points in the inaugural Rote Open 2009 presented by the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour. The event saw 90 national and international surfers competing in four divisions; Open Pro, Masters, Women’s, and Local. At the closing ceremony the Governor of Rote, Leonardus Hanning, expressed his appreciation to all for producing such an excellent event, and committed to having Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour back next year and as long as he is in office. www.isctour.com
DRAWINGS OF THREATENED BEAUTY
An exhibition of drawings of Indonesian wildlife species, accompanied by continuous screenings of environmental themed movies, is held through October 3 at Erasmus Huis, the Cultural Centre of the Netherlands Embassy in Jakarta. This year Charles Darwin would have turned 200 years old, and his book the “The Origin of Species” was published 150 years ago, links Indonesia which was on the brink to be further discovered, to the world and our nature today. Erasmus Huis, Jl. H.R Rasuna Said Kav. S-3, Kuningan, Jakarta, (021) 524-1069
The National Gallery holds two exhibition this month. Common Sense on October 16-30 and a solo exhibition of Mella Jaarsma from October 27 - November 8. Common Sense is an exhibition of 40 Indonesian painters. The exhibition shows the relation between the expression of fine art and culture as a manifestaition of people’s attuitude and self consciousness. Mella Jaarsma’s solo exhibition is a cooperation between Galeri Nasional and Cemeti Art House in Yogyakarta. Galeri Nasional Indonesia, Jl. Medan Merdeka Timur No. 14, Jakarta, (021) 348-339-55, www.galeri-nasional.or.id
THAT JAZZY EAST
The Ambon Jazz Plus has been scheduled for October 9-11. Several months ago the jazz event was announced for the town of Ambon inviting a number of performers from the country and abroad. Initially set for September, but due to concern for respecting the fasting month of Ramadhan and upholding a century old tradition practiced by the Muslim and Christian communities in Ambon known as Pela Gendong, the jazz festival agenda shifted to October 9-11. According to the Ambon Jazz Plus Festival listings, the festival not only features jazz with the likes of Bubi Chen & Friends but also hints of many other performers outside the genre, such as R&B, Hip-hop, Soul and Gospel. International performers slated to perform include Wilkins Ramirez (Puerto Rico) and Michael Sembello (USA). www.ambonjazzplus.com
54 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
STUNNING FOLDS ‘N CREASES
The Japan Foundation in collaboration with KOWANI, the Nippon Origami Association and CPI hold an origami exhibition and workshop on October 3 and 4. The event takes place at the Atrium Senayan City on Jl. Asia Afrika No.19, Jakarta. This is a free exhibition open to the public, showcasing the various origami creations from Japanese experts. 15 Japanese origami experts come to share their knowledge and show their abilities in creating the Japanese legacy in paper craft through a series of workshops. Participation fee for workshops are only Rp 20,000. The Japan Foundation, Jl. Jend. Sudirman kav.61-62, South Jakarta; www.jpf.or.id
Coinciding with National Customer’s Day, the Indonesian Customer Satisfaction Award (ICSA) 2009 was held by national publication SWA Sembada together with Frontier independent research institution entering its 11th year in September, which has become a barometer for customer product and services satisfaction in Indonesia. This year’s surveys were carried out in various categories involving 1,600 respondents in Medan, Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Surabaya, and Makassar. National cellular operator Telkomsel maintained top level as the highest customer satisfactory achieving company, taking 3 awards for its simcard products, namely simPATI (Prepaid) and kartuHALO (Post-paid) for 10 years consecutively. Meanwhile, newcomer Bakrie Telecom (BTEL) achieved an ICSA 2009 award for its Esia products in the Prepaid and Post-paid FWA simcard categories. Bakrie Telecom also gained 4 awards in the 5th National Customer Service Championship side event also held by Frontier. www.telkomsel.com www.bakrietelecom.com
TO FULL EFFECTS
The Japan Foundation holds a seminar on visual effects at Serambi Salihara in Jakarta on October 7, from 2 pm to 4 pm. Meet Issei Oda, a successful Japanese filmmaker who is also a special effects (VFX) supervisor and Harris Reggy, an Indonesian designer and animator largely involved in VFX. Here, Oda will share his knowledge of the most current developments in techniques and technology of VFX and various tendencies from the latest events in the Japanese film industry. In the seminar Oda and Harris will also share their experiences in motion graphics and television. Serambi Salihara, South Jakarta, (021) 520-1266
MUM (Manusia untuk Masyarakat or ‘People for the Community’) Bali Foundation launched its “Care for Kids Sumba Water Project” on September 15 at the The Villas Hotel & Spa. Present was Richard Flax (foundation chairman), Michael Klim (Olympic champion swimmer) and Simone Buchanan (actress and patron of the Jodie’Shea orphanage). Care for Kids Sumba Water Project is a well-building and fruit and vegetable garden project in the village of Tanarara in Lewa, East Sumba. Virtually all the diggers have children at the orphanage in Denpasar so the parents are able to benefit from this project. www.careforkidsbali.com
56 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
The 5th Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will be held from October 7 to 11. The 2009 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival boasts Suka Duka as its theme this year: loosely translated as ‘Compassion and Solidarity’. Some of the finest writers from 23 countries will converge to discuss the great themes of our time: religion, identity, the legacy of colonial brutality and the postcolonial voice, human rights, race and identity, exile, gender, censorship, literary expression and the state. www.ubudwritersfestival.com
The Group of Photographic Artists (GPA) will exhibit about 123 photos in an exhibition called “The Treasures of Indonesia” from October 24 to November 1 at Ramayana Hotel, Kuta. This program celebrates the 1st anniversary of GPA, and will also feature a photo hunting session from October 24 to 26. The goal of this exhibition is to show and share their artworks with people (especially artists and photographers) from all around the world in the most exotic travelling destination in the world. For further information, contact Budi Widjaja, 081-700-729-99.
TO THE SCREENS
This year Balinale 2009 plans to screen more than 50 feature films, documentaries, short and classic movies. This year’s program once again includes a film workshop for teenagers in conjunction with the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival on October 7, through the Young Indonesian Film Circle Workshop. Balinale 2009 Festival Headquarters, (0361) 270-908; www.balinale.com
Nusa Dua Fiesta 2009 takes place at the Peninsula Island in Nusa Dua from October 2-6. Nusa Dua Fiesta 2009 aims to promote the area, the island and the whole archipelago. This year’s fiesta takes on the theme Segara Lelanguan that tells the story of environmental conservation especially the ocean. The 5-day agenda is filled with highlights from culture, music, sport and competitions, and various exhibitions.
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of works by artist Ida Bagus Putu Gede Sutama called FLOTSAM and JETSAM through November 2. The sculpture of the Balinese artist mirrors the reality of his home near Sanur Beach. One of the most picturesque sights is that of the colorful jukung - triangular sailed outrigger dug-out canoes - that line the beach. Carved in the shape of mythological elephant fish, the same sea, reef and sand imagination that gave birth to these is the source of Sutama’s inspiration. Ganesha Gallery, (0361) 701-010
ENTER THE GARDEN
Following his last solo exhibition in Jakarta in 2004, Pande Ketut Taman returns to display his newest works at Komaneka Fine Art Gallery, Ubud. His current exhibition marks a further milestone for Taman and his understanding of ‘clear water philosophy’, where the color spectrum is the amalgamation of the various colors merging as one. The solo exhibition continues through October 25, and the gallery opens everyday from 8 am to 8 pm. Komaneka Fine Art Gallery, Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, (0361) 976-090
58 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2009
MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH
TWINS, DIFFERENT MOTHERS
Gaya Fusion hosts a joint exhibition entitled “Twin Sons of Different Mothers” through October 6-30, featuring the works of Ida Bagus Indra and John O’Sullivan. The concept evolved over time rather than on a single occasion. Two souls connected for over six years this time around; attracted in a desire to express and create a mixed medium offering of our past, present and future. One soul from Bali of the Brahman caste and the other a Celtic spirit traveling the world in search of hiding relatives; the ultimate reconnection of souls in unison. Gaya Fusion, Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud (0361) 979-252; www.gayafusion.com.
October 1 ‘Hari Kesaktian Pancasila’. National observance International Day of Older Persons. International observance recognized by the UN World Vegetarian Day. International observance October 2 International Day of NonViolence. International observance recognized by the UN. Observance on Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday October 3 Purnama Sasih Kapat. The fourth full moon. Balinese Hindu observance. World Smile Day. International observance October 4 World Animal Day. International observance October 5 Indonesian National Armed Forces Day. National observance World Habitat Day (first Monday of October). International observance recognized by the UN World Teacher’s Day. International observance October 6 World Hospice and Palliative Day. International observance October 7 International Day of Natural Disaster Reduction (second day of October). International observance recognized by the UN. October 8 Sugian Jawa. Balinese Hindu observance. World Humanitarian Action Day. International observance October 9 Sugian Bali. Balinese Hindu observance. World Post Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 10 World Mental Health Day. International observance recognized by the UN. World Against Death Penalty. International observance recognized by the WDACP October 12 Penyajan Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. October 13 Penampahan Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. October 14 Galungan Day. Day symbolizing the triumph of Dharma (good) over Adharma (evil). The peak of the Galungan celebrations, commencing with Sugian Jawa and ending on Kuningan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. World Standards Day. International observance October 15 Manis Galungan Day. Balinese Hindu observance. Animal Rights Day. National observance International Day of Rural Women. International observance recognized by the UN. October 16 Indonesian Parliament Day. National observance World Food Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 17 International Day for the Eradication of Poverty. International observance recognized by the UN. October 18 Tilem Sasih Kapat. The fourth New Moon. Balinese Hindu observance. October 23 Penampahan Kuningan. Balinese Hindu observance. October 24 Kuningan Day. Balinese Hindu observance National Doctor Day. National observance United Nations Day. International observance recognized by the UN. World Development Information Day. International observance recognized by the UN. October 27 National Aviation Day. National observance National Electricity Day. National observance National Blogger’s Day. National observance October 28 Youth Pledge Day. National observance October 29 Indonesian Civil Servant Corps (KORPRI). National observance October 30 Finance Day. National observance
RUN FOR ANOTHER’S LIFE
Hard Rock’n Run - The 9th Chapter kicks off October 4. The Charity Run starts at 7.30 am with registrations open at 6.30 am. Individual participation fee of Rp. 85,000 includes a T-Shirt and refreshments. This year’s run once again supports cleft palate surgery for children in Bali, and proceeds go to assist the Rumah Senyum ‘Smile House’. (0361) 761-869
IMAGEMAKERS OF THE FUTURE
Alila Living Gallery presents Imagemakers of the Future, A New Generation of Indonesian Photographers Emerges, through November. This BLIPfest pre-event is held in conjunction with Alila Ubud, showcasing the works of emerging young Indonesian photographers who are in the first years of their careers. BLIPfest (Bali Photography Festival) is a major international photography event hosting an array of exhibitions, workshops and seminars in Bali, Indonesia. A first for Bali, BLIPfest will take place during the last week of September into the first week of October, 2010. The events of BLIPfest 2010 will be spread over venues around Denpasar, Kuta, Nusa Dua and Ubud. Alila Ubud (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com
HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.mentarisanur.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: email@example.com; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection. Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques. CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, ph : 0361-738001 The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali, Ph: 0361-738001 Fax : 0361-738002 Sales : 0361-738008 E-mail: Info@thehavenbali.com; Website: www.thehavenbali.com
HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net
In anticipation of an increase in usage traffic during the Lebaran holidays, Telkomsel Regional Bali Nusra increased its network capacity throughout its 1500 BTS in both 2G and 3G. Telkomsel has also increased its capacity to handle 80,000 SMSs per second. Through its TELKOMSELsiaga 2009 holiday promotional campaign, the Telkomsel Denpasar Branch sent off the brotherhood and community from Tegal, Central Java, in Bali to their hometown for the Idul Fitri holidays, from the front of the GraPARI headquarters in Denpasar. www.telkomsel.com
PURIFIED ‘N BLESSED
The Haven recently held its Melaspas blessing ceremony in early September. It was also part of an opening ritual for the completion of the construction of the hotel’s “three in one concept” through its suites, hotel, and villas. The purification rituals took place prior to its grand opening due this month. The Melaspas was led by a Hindu high priest and included various ritual dance performances and a Wayang Kulit shadow play. The Haven Seminyak, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 Kuta (0361) 738 001, www.thehavenbali.com
Smart Telecom, an Indonesian cellular mobile company, launched its internet service at Hard Rock Cafe Bali in September, incorporating EVDO Rev. A technology with a maximum speed of 3.1Mbps for downloads and 1.8Mbps for uploads, it provides some product alternatives such as netbooks, USB modems, and wireless modem routers. www.smart-telecom.co.id
Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence recently held a media gathering and soft launch for the newest hotel on Jalan Wana Segara at the southern end of Kuta. The hotel features a total of 209 rooms on 5 floors, each with full amenities and a range of F&B outlets including the Sugar & Spice coffee shop, lobby lounge, Lighthouse rooftop restaurant and a Tropical Bliss pool bar. The event also saw site inspections and a meet-and-greet with the staff and Aston corporate representatives. Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jalan Wana Segara, Kuta (0361) 754-999; www.astonkuta.com
A MoU signing ceremony at the Ramada Benoa Hotel celebrated the successful ‘tsunami ready’ preparation of the Tanjung Benoa sub district on September 10. The initiative empowered the village of Tanjung Benoa to cooperate with the local hotel industry to jointly prepare for the event of a tsunami. Hotels and villages agreed on an evacuation trigger, evacuation procedures and codes of conduct. Cooperation partners are BHA, Kelurahan Tanjung Benoa, GTZ-GITEWS, CIM and BUDPAR. Bali Hotels Association (BHA) Secretariat, (0361) 227-600
A contract agreement has been signed between PT. Wolulas Jaya and Bali Villa Properties. With the signing of this contract the companies have trusted Bali Villa Properties, one of Bali’s villa management companies, to manage their The Wolas Villas & Spa that is in plans to launch early next year. The signing was attended by A. A. K. Arimbawa, Gusti Ngurah Jaya Putra, Jenny Tan and Rudy Alinato as the owners of the villas; and Wayan Sumarta, Ketut Sumerta, Ketut Kanten and Monica Taufik from Bali Villa Properties. Bali Villa Properties, Jl. Kunti No. 117X, Seminyak, (0361) 885-3688 www.balivillaproperties.com
The Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) in conjunction with its 5th Anniversary conducted a series of programs, which included visits to foundations and orphanages, tree planting and cleaning blitz activities, and participating in the Clean Up the World campaign. The series of programs concluded with a cocktail celebration on the evening of September 8 at The Royal Pita Maha Resort in Ubud. Ubud Hotels Association Secretariat E-mail: email@example.com
NUSA DUA CLEANUP
The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, recently supported the Clean up the World global community initiative. A number of employees from various divisions together with department heads and executive committee representatives gathered amongst the hotel community in Bali in September. The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali, (0361) 771-327
THE LAGUNA SAND CASTLE
In conjunction with The Sport & Culture Carnival 2009, the Bali Hotels Association recently held a sandcastle competition at the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa. This event was to encourage creativity among members while at the same time promoting team synergy and collaboration. The Laguna was announced as the first winner, followed by Melia Bali Spa Resort and Villas and Padma Bali Hotel. The Laguna won 1st place with a sand sculpture as a symbol of world peace by naming their creation “Peace on Earth”.
The town of Malang, East Java, saw an annual ritual on September 3 called ‘Cioko’, celebrated by followers of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism. Ancestral worship as well as humanitarian activity was conducted through donations to the needy. Also an annual highlight was the ‘Gebyar Takjil’ which takes place as people prepare for fast-opening or iftar, where hundreds of students together with side peddlers offer their ware of meals or takjil to passing motorcycle riders and drivers. The highlight resembles a street bazaar during each annual month of Ramadhan and takes place along the 2 kilometer Jalan Soekarno Hatta in Malang. Photos and report by Erik Wijaya
SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
OUTSTANDING SKAL WORLD PRESIDENT’S LUNCH AT THE LAGUNA RESORT & SPA IN NUSA DUA Impeccably organised in every detail, this lunch set a new standard for excellence. Slightly Cured Atlantic Salmon with poached scampi, asparagus parfait and frozen lobster bisque followed by Slow Roasted Victorian Beef Striploin with braised oxtail tortellini, truffled celeriac puree and Beaujolais wine reduction. The stunning dessert buffet was a crowning splendour. The planning, attention to detail, reception, thoughtfulness and performance were to the highest standards…even beyond those which we have come to expect from The Laguna. UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are: November 6 – Hu’u Bar/Nutmegs Restaurant – Petitenget December 12 – Annual Festive Season Ball – Grand Hyatt – Nusa Dua January 8 – Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort – Nusa Dua February 5 – Sanur Paradise Plaza – Sanu ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the World’s largest travel and tourism organization with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals providing accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth
For information on joining Skal and participation lunches and events contact Gede Juwena at the Skal Bali secretariat on (0361) 784 0212 or at firstname.lastname@example.org
N W S E
ra s Bagu Taru na
Jl. R aya Panta
Istana Kuta Galleria Harris Hotel
a aP laz rtik
Hard Rock Cafe
Jl. Pantai Kuta
Discovery Shopping Mall
Jl. Raya Tu
Kuta Sea View
Ground Zero Monument
Jl. Han g Tuah
H S H
Jl. Pratama Raya
Melia Benoa Art Market
au Be ra ta n
Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Segara Ayu
Jl. Tegeh Agung
H H CD
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
Sanur Paradise Paza French Consulate
Jl. Kurusetr a3
Sweden & Finland Consulate
N W S E
Jl. By pa ss Ng ur ah Ra
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
erta sar i
Bali Golf & Country Club
Jl. Danau Tempe
Czech Rep. Consulate
Jl. N usa Dua Sela tan
The St. Regis
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3 villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete, shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian, Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510 E-mail: email@example.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com
during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s / quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day. BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766; Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
ACTION & ATTRACTION
BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the beauty of walking among hundreds of beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia, Ginger and other interesting plants. A peaceful, natural and safe haven close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011; www.baliorchidgardens.com; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive. Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields, crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 / email@example.com
TOURS & TRAVEL
ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo & Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750 971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56, Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.adventureindonesia.com
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UMNS N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C L A L A SF I EF I EC OC U M N S 1 SSI SI D D LOL • C JANUARY 2009 OF BALI BALI&BEYOND X • MAP FO INDE EWS • IN NEW & N
Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly. Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 434.01.00210.00.4 CIMB NIAGA - CAB. KUTA GRAHA, KUTA-BALI Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274
BALI & BEYOND
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369 ■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011 Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id ■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: email@example.com ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: email@example.com ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: email@example.com ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: email@example.com ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: email@example.com ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: email@example.com www.kasihibu.co.id
■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.
■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: email@example.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur
HEALTH & MEDICAL
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace ﬂuids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue