BALI & BEYOND

SEPTEMBER 2009
VOLUME 11 NO. 112

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

PEJENG:

BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU
VISITING THE PEJENG VILLAGE HELPS ONE UNDERSTAND ANCIENT BALI AND THE BALINESE PAST THROUGH VARIOUS RELICS

BALINESE HERITAGE IN A MADURA VILLAGE
DISCOVERY OF BALINESE HERITAGE IN A REMOTE VILLAGE NEAR SUMENEP ON THE MUSLIM ISLAND OF MADURA

HATCHLINGS’

HIGH HOPES
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COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C LBALI&BEYOND D C O L U M N 1 A S S I F I E SEPTEMBER 2009 S

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TEAMTALK

teamtalk 09.09
SOULFUL SEPTEMBER
‘Om Swastyastu...’ Welcome to the island and welcome to the September 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond... and a special “welcome back” to those of you who decided to visit again to further experience Bali and its surrounding islands. Visiting the island this month will present you with many memorable opportunities, as the ‘peak season’ is continuing on from the previous month’s peak holiday period. Your camera, we believe, will be an indispensable item… so keep your film ready to load, your memory cards free of space, and your forefinger ‘shutter release happy’ throughout your adventures on Bali and beyond. Last month we saw Sanur’s share of festive highlights with the fourth Sanur Village Festival. And after much anticipation and a series of question marks regarding its continuity, the Kuta Karnival has recently announced its return this month from September 19-27. Led by the Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), this 7th annual Kuta Karnival will again ‘celebrate life’; and invites all to the various events bound for the Kuta Beach area. On the cultural side and close to the center of the island, this month we visit the primordial village of Pejeng through Craft & Culture where we admire the archeological features throughout the village and trace the stream of the rivers Pakerisan and Petanu, all of which help us understand more of ancient Bali and the Balinese past through the various relics scattered about the vicinity. For a bit of action and adventure we share with you some environmental conservation aspects. Last month we had the opportunity to travel on the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan and attend a presentation by the Marine Program Director for Conservation International Indonesia and member of the Marine Turtle Specialist Group, who told us about “best practices” in preserving Indonesia’s endangered turtle population. The trip was part of the Bali Hai Cruises effort, working with the villages of Kurma Asih, to launch a turtle adoption and release program, which was started in July. After the presentation at Bali Hai’s Beach Club, the ‘adopters’ headed to Sunset Beach where we all had the chance to participate in giving the “Gift of Life” by bidding farewell and a safe journey to the baby turtles scuttling towards the waves. We share the experience with you in this month’s Action & Attraction. Pictured here is a token of the trip. In this the Muslim month of Ramadhan, we go Beyond Bali to feature a religious ceremony on the island of Madura. Tim Hannigan shows us his discovery of some Balinese heritage in a remote village near Sumenep on this Muslim island.
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

contributors

Arvid Nicolas shoots for international travel and lifestyle magazines; when not traveling he dwells at his professional studio (obscurastudio.net)

Hary Subastian is MRA Media’s senior photographer and his portfolio spans Indonesia’s high-end fashion and lifestyle magazines.

Kathy Petite spends her time writing about travel, lifestyle, arts and culture. She also writes songs, and is writing a novel she never gets to finish.

We hope you enjoy your time and adventures. And while you’re at it, always keep safe. Enjoy! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for adventure on dry land that really got him hooked.

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Deputy General Manager Managing Editor Editorial Assistant Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI dian@baliandbeyond.co.id A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id MADE SUWARDANA suwardana@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager F&A Supervisor GA & Personnel Adm Distribution Graphic Design Intern ANDI BEHANS andibehans@baliandbeyond.co.id A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA MARIA PUTRI KHARISMA

Contributors GENTRY AMALO, HENNY DESTYARINI, GUSTRA, TIM HANNIGAN, JUSTIN LEWIS (GETTY IMAGES), JESPER MEYER, ARVID NICOLAS, KATHY PETITE, HARY SUBASTIAN Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

A member of

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S

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CAPITALCORNER
THE HOT AND SMASHING POTATO
Kathy Petite brought her inquisitive mind and appetite to a recently-opened hot and hip restaurant on the outer edge of Pacific Place’s ground floor in Jakarta.
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INVITE&INDULGE BEACHFRONT DISCOVERY The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas stand as among the most familiar and unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area.

PHOTO COURTESY DISCOVERY KARTIKA PLAZA HOTEL

CRAFT&CULTURE PEJENG: BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU Visiting the idyllic village of Pejeng, one can easily find and further understand ancient Bali and the Balinese through various centuries-old remnants and relics.

PHOTO BY KATHY PETITE

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September 2009 Volume 11 No. 112

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

Turtle Crawling Towards Ocean Photo by Justin Lewis (Getty Images)

Bali & Beyond meets up with four fingered South Korean pianist Hee Ah Lee before her inspiring concert.

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34 PONDERINGPOINT “TRULY” INDONESIA Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet dance in its tourism promotion, and it has become a serious issue in Indonesia. 36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS HATCHLINGS’ HIGH HOPES Bali Hai Cruises joined forces with Kurma Asih village foundation and Conservation International through a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ initiative on the island of Lembongan. 12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 62 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.

COURTESY BALI HAI CRUISES

BEYONDBALI BALINESE HERITAGE IN A MADURA VILLAGE
The discovery of Balinese heritage on a Muslim island reveals a people proud of their unique heritage.

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COURTESY PHOTO

COURTESY BILLABONG ASIA

COVER

INSPIRING THE WHOLE WORLD

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NEW&NEWS

TEJAKULA TRIPLE
The vice regent of the Buleleng regency, Made Arga Pynatih, recently introduced sea management zones on the Taoka Coast in the village of Tejakula. This collaborative effort between groups of local fishermen and the local village administration, together with the local government and related parties including Reef Check Indonesia, set up zones that will be part of a chain along Tejakula’s beaches. The area is approximately 1.3 kilometers across and 180 meters from the coast, with three zones named the Core Zone, the Support Zone, and the Utilization Zone. Recent social activities highlighted its introduction. Reef Check Indonesia, www.reefcheck.or.id

PHOTO BY GENTRY AMALO

ASIAN INSIGHTS
Editions Didier Millet introduces The Sultan and the Mermaid Queen by Paul Spencer Sochaczewski, a collection of essays that describe rarely written-about Asian people, places and events. From the last elephant hunter of Vietnam, Alfred Russell Wallace, to the Sultan of Yogyakarta’s love affair with a Mermaid Queen. www.edmbooks.com
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI

BEYOND ACRONYM
Indonesian traditional cosmetics producer Martha Tilaar (pictured center) launched her new book Bali S(hui) P(ani) A(merta): Secrets of Holistic Healing on the Island of the Gods, at the Periplus bookstore of the Mal Bali Galeria in Kuta. In her 200-page book, Tilaar writes about ancient Balinese medical treatments that use water as the main ingredient. The book was jointly written by Tilaar, Balinese shamans and local healers. Periplus Bookstore, (0361) 751-197; www.periplus.co.id

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ROOMY!
Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa recently appointed Mr. Siswo Susetyo as Rooms Division Manager of the 381room hotel. From his first role at Sahid Bali Seaside Hotel, to several positions with Bali Hilton International, Mr. Siswo has continued to gain extensive experience through roles in the Rooms Division throughout Bali. In 2003, Mr. Siswo was appointed Director of Rooms of Hard Rock Hotel until 2007, when he joined Nikko Bali Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, (0361) 771-210
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APARTMENT-STYLE
O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger is the largest all-suite luxury resort in Legian. The apartment-style hotel, managed by Hawaiian-based hotel operator Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, comprises five levels housing 112 spacious contemporary style suites. The C Bistro & Lounge dishes up Mediterranean and Asian cuisine, while the Flying Fish opens for dinner serving fresh seafood. O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian (0361) 737-400; www.outrigger.com
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IN THE HILLS, AT THE BAY
Four Seasons Resorts Bali introduces new highlights at its Jimbaran and Sayan resorts. Jimbaran Bay’s open-air signature restaurant Taman Wantilan has recently been transformed into an authentic Italian ristorante. Milanese native Senior Chef de Partie Loris Pistillo experiments with Mediterranean flavors and Italian culinary secrets while the ambience remains tropical Balinese. At Sayan, “A Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer” is a unique experience in which guests will learn about farming, planting rice seeds, enjoying a river spa ritual, and tasting a traditional ‘Nasi Campur’ lunch. The spas at both Four Seasons Resorts Bali at Jimbaran Bay and Sayan have recently launched 100% chemical free treatments including the new signature “Sodashi Water Valley Treatment”. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay; (0361) 756-988; bali.queenstandoor.com

AUSSIE RULES?
InterContinental Bali Resort welcomes Adam McDonald as Resort Manager. Adam assumes overall responsibility for the operations of the 418-room property. The Australian born and active Australian Rules Football enthusiast has spent his entire career working in the luxury hotel sector, and joins InterContinental Bali Resort straight from a 4-year stint as Resident Manager at InterContinental Sydney. InterContinental Bali Resort (0361) 701-888 www.bali.intercontinental.com

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TRANSFORMED...
Bali Dynasty Resort announced its completed renovation of 125 Deluxe and Family Rooms located in two wings of the hotel. Each room has been fully modernized and equipped with new furnishings and luxury facilities, with en-suite bathrooms completely refitted. Family Rooms are located on the ground floor with views and access to the garden and pool via an outdoor terrace, enabling the kids to play outside. Each is designed to accommodate up to five people in two spacious sleeping areas, separated by a half partition wall. All bathrooms are wheelchair accessible and are complemented by well-lit wall mirrors, a thoughtful array of amenities and non-slip floors. This latest renovation project is part of a multi-million dollar makeover to Bali Dynasty Resort over the last year, including the transformation of the lobby and the stylish new Sen5es international restaurant. Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl Kartika, Tuban, South Kuta, (0361) 752-403 www.balidynasty.com

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FOOD ARCHITECT
Padma Resort Bali’s Japanese Chef, Shoichi Shiraiwa, is ready to provide the best Japanese culinary treats for guests. He has spent many years in the Unites States working for New York’s Sushi Taro and several Japanese restaurants in Florida. He also has extensive experience in Japan and the US with building and construction projects. These skills determine his attention to detail, thus assuring the quality of his Japanese dishes. Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian (0361) 752-111; www.padmahotels.com

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ON THE SOUTH END
As this goes to press, Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence is launching as the newest hotel on Jalan Wana Segara at the southern end of Kuta. Conceived as a contemporary sanctuary just a 50 meter stroll 209 rooms on 5 floors, each with full amenities and a range of F&B outlets including the Sugar & Spice coffee shop, the Ruby Tuesday lobby lounge, the Lighthouse rooftop restaurant and the Tropical Bliss pool bar. Other facilities include spa & body treatments, a business center, a swimming pool and a kid’s pool and kids club. Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence, Jalan Wana Segara, Kuta (0361) 754-999; www.astonkuta.com
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from the beach, the Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence features a total of

SIGN ON
Balinese surf star and all round nice guy Rahtu Suargita has again signed with world leading surf brand Billabong. In his own words, Billabong has supported him not only in surfing, but has also given him a chance to expand himself in other fields such as video editing while also providing the platform to show them to the world. “I really appreciate that,” he said. Billabong also couldn’t be more happy about it. “We’re so stoked to have Rahtu on the team again,” said Peter Thew, Billabong South East Asia Marketing Manager. “He’s starting to really clock some results on the Indonesian tour and has nailed some amazing shots this season. He’s a great asset to Billabong and definitely one of the stars on the SE Asian surf scene.” www.billabong.com/asia

PHOTO COURTESY ASTON KUTA HOTEL & RESIDENCE

KARNIVAL RETURNS
After much anticipation, the Kuta Karnival returns September 1927. Led by the Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), the 7th Kuta Karnival will again celebrate life, with the organizing committee excited to invite all to the fabulous events happening on Kuta Beach. The Opening Ceremony, Kite Festival, Traditional Sunset Dance, Bali Hotels Association Bartender Competition, Surfer Girl’s Big Splash Surfing Days, the Bali Food Festival, a Closing Ceremony & Parade and many other highlights on the agenda. Check website for updates. Kuta Small Business Association (KSBA), (0361) 758-995 www.kutakarnival.com
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GOLFER’S CHOICE
Nirwana Bali Golf Club was awarded The Choice Golf Course – Overseas 2009 from The Golfers’ Choice Awards 2009 presented by Golf Vacations Hong Kong Magazine in July in Hong Kong. The Golfers’ Choice Awards covers three categories, namely “Golf & Travel”, “Consumer Brands”, and “Equipment” respectively. Golfers’ Choice Awards sets up a platform for golf lovers to express their preference and choice. An enjoyable golfing experience comes not just from a good-conditioned golf course, but also from many other environmental and human-related factors such as ease of travel, the availability of amusements for non-golfers nearby the golf course, the golf ambience in the neighbourhood of the golf course, etc. For most recreational golfers, the most important thing is playing happily and playing healthily. Le Méridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort (0361) 815-900, www.lemeridien.com/bali

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PHOTO BY HENNY DESTYARINI

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SENSORY ESCAPES
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa announces the introduction of the Tropical Rejuvenation spa care line by Pevonia Botanica. The Spa at Maya in conjunction with Pevonia Botanica has carefully created five new spa treatments using these tropical spa care products. The Tropical Rejuvenation range includes three facial treatments; Rescue & Repair Facial, Detailing F acial for Him, and Hydration Infusion Facial, and two body treatments; Tropical Escape Papaya-Pineapple Crème Fraiche Wrap and its anti cellulite Slimming Green Coffee Body Wrap. The Spa at Maya’s well-known signature “Riverside Special” as well as many other original spa treatments are also available. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, (0361) 977-888; www.mayaubud.com

GRILL IT, JAPANESE WAY
PHOTOS COURTESY MAYA UBUD AND PEVONIA BOTANICA

Canang Bali Yakiniku Restaurant opened recently, enriching the culinary options in the Kuta area. This grillroom opened in early August and is managed by Wayan Suanda. His previous experience at The Legian Bali built up his confidence for running this business. This restaurant not only offers genuine Japanese yakiniku but also continental cuisine. In general, Yakiniku uses beef, pork, and innards and is grilled just like barbeque. In a yakiniku restaurant, guests will choose their own ingredients and grill their meat choices on an built-in stove at their table. To enjoy charcoal grilled meat, they need to first dip the meat in tare sauce. Canang Bali Restaurant; Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 21, Kuta (0361) 766-203, www.canangbalirestaurant.com

KERAMAS KING
Dean Bowen (Australia) won the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) Grade 5-Rated Billabong Pro Junior Bali, the only ASP rated event for 2009 in Indonesia, in late July. Held in magnificent surf over a four day period at the famous Keramas Rivermouth on the east coast of Bali, Bowen’s powerful backhand on-face surfing proved too strong for Teale Vanner (Australia) in a one sided final. Bowen’s top two rides of a 7 and a 7.5 and final total of 14.5 eclipsed Vanner’s two wave total of 7.5 for the win. www.aspaustralasia.com, www.isctourcom

STAR KIDS
The St. Regis Bali Resort in Bali, comprising the St. Regis Bali Resort, the Westin Resort Nusa Dua, the Laguna, and the Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort proudly launched the ‘Anak Bintang Campaign’ in support of the community and children of Bali. This first ever campaign in Indonesia provides children in Bali with motorcycle helmets for safe use on the roads. The four hotels have come together to provide initial funding, and then will seek to raise funds through public contributions. www.starwoodhotels.com

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PEJENG: BETWEEN PAKERISAN AND PETANU

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Tracing down the streams of the Pakerisan and Petanu, and visiting the idyllic village of Pejeng, one can easily find and further understand ancient Bali and the Balinese through various centuries-old remnants and relics.

Opposite page: a Beji, a place for holy water at Pura Pengukur-Ukur temple; right: a cave at the temple where Kebo Iwa supposedly meditated.

W
riverside.

ater is the most fundamental element in human life. Humans thrive when abundant water

have been found in that area, and most are kept in a village named Pejeng. Ancient Balinese archaeological sites range from Tirta Empul, a bathing place in Tampaksiring, to the Durga Kutri temple in the village of Kutri. But all of it is basically centralized in Pejeng, a village believed to be Bali’s central kingdom until the rise of Asta Asura Ratna Bumi Banten, who was the last king of classical Bali before its fall due the Majapahit empire’s expansion in the 14th century. In regards to the government, people will instinctively imagine a palace as the king’s house. But after looking around Pejeng or going through the river’s streams, you soon realize there is no such relic. According to history, we

find accounts of natural disasters such as earthquakes, floods, volcanic eruptions and landslides that may indeed have covered up such a site. That important site may have disappeared, not only by natural causes but also possibly by human factors and war. When one dynasty wins over the previous one, they will usually move the capital city and destroy the old palace, as is believed to be the symbol of the previous dynasty’s hegemony. But the things that cannot be disturbed are the temples, the sacred places of devotion. Before the Balinese beliefs were united under Hinduism they lived as many sects, namely Siwa, Budha, Bhairawa, and Wisnu. People used statues as media to represent their gods and deities and
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supplies exist, so it’s no wonder that large communities develop in areas rich in water. Thus many cultures have begun by the Many ancient kingdoms were located near the banks of a river or in coastal areas. Egypt developed by the river Nile. Indian culture started on the banks of the Indus. Sriwijaya, one of Indonesia’s largest historical kingdoms in the 7th century, ruled from the side of the Musi. And on our island here, ancient Bali was centralized between the Pakerisan and Petanu rivers. Many archaeological relics

Pura Penataran Sasih, where the nekara and ancient statues are kept. A Sangku Sudhamala from 1329 A.D. kept at Pura Pusering Jagad. Opposite page: the ‘Arjuna Metapa’ site.

PHOTOS BY MADE SUWARDANA

placed them in temples. This established the temple as the institution that keeps everything together over time. Over time, the temples boasted another function - a silent witness of history. Pejeng has many old temples with statues and archaeological relics in them. Entering the village, there is a temple next to the Museum of Archaeology named the Pura Kebo Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6meter Bima statue that is described as dancing on a stack of skulls. This statue is also known as Bhairawa and hails from the 13th century, during Kertanegara’s rule of the Singosari Kingdom in East Java. When he ruled, he placed Kebo Parud as his
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representative in Bali, as Kebo Parud was also a Bhima Bhairawa adherent. Bhairawa is a religion that focuses on devoting Durga as the Goddess of Death and of the Underworld. Every devotion related to Durga is described with demonic symbols or sinister properties, such as scary facial features or sharp tusks. Many statues like that are found in this temple. Only a few meters from Pura Kebo Edan is Pura Pusering Jagat. The name describes it as the center of the world. This temple is one of six important temples in Bali and it is located in the axis of the island, hence its name ‘puser’ (meaning center) and ‘jagat’ (meaning the world).

Based on Hindu belief the center is Siwa, and as the place devoted to Siwa you can find Lingga and Yoni at the pelinggih (shrine monument). The 1.2 meter phallus is symbol of Siwa, while the 0.8 meter Yoni symbolizes the feminine counterpart, in the form of a vulva. When Lingga meets Yoni, fertility and life results. The temple guard says many infertile couples come to the temple, begging for a child and so pray in front of the shrine. Another relic in the temple is Sangku Sudamala, a large stone vase used to hold holy water. This vase has reliefs which tell about the world’s rotation conducted by

the deities and demons. The rotation is done to achieve amerta (or holy water), which promotes immortality. This vase dates from 1251 Saka or 1329 A.D. Besides the vase, there are many statues that can be found in this temple. These relics are similar to those in Pura Penataran Sasih, another temple about 500 meters from the Pusering Jagad temple. The ancient stone statues stand neatly in the temple. But there is one special building with special relics, relics that are not made up of stone but made of bronze. One is the nekara or kettle drum, made during the bronze age by the Dongson culture around 2,000 years ago. This kettle drum is 1.86 meters in diameter and it has a unique story behind it. The surface is round just like a full moon and so the local

people believed it was a moon that fell from the sky. A folk tale tells that a long, long time ago the earth had two moons, so the night was as bright as if it were day. This caused thieves to restrict carrying out their activities at night. Then one day a powerful thief flew up and urinated on the moon, which made it lose its gleam, and subsequently it fell down to earth. That moon fell in Pejeng; the local people kept the “moon” in the temple and worshipped it. The temple’s name, Penataran Sasih, means ‘place of the moon’. Archaeologists estimate that the kettle drum is a medium for ancestral worship and is also a tool for praying for rain. One thing that is certain about the bronze relic is that it is the largest bronze kettledrum found in South East Asia. Continuing on the trail of the Balinese

Archaeologists estimate that this kettle drum was a medium for ancestral worship and was also a tool for praying for rain. One thing for sure is that it is the largest bronze kettledrum found in Southeast Asia.

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in Pejeng. All relics such as statues or temples are kept where they belong and are kept by the local people who care for them from generation to generation. A staff member at the museum said that the relics are not moved to the museum but are left for the locals to keep. Because the relics have functions other than as mediums of devotion. What the government body does is to build the data and protect the sites. One such example includes a building for the Arjuna Metapa site in the middle of a rice field near the Kebo Edan temple. There is a statue of Arjuna with two of his servants and some fairies who tried to tempt him. Arjuna is a prince from the Mahabharata epic. In Java, this epic was

Many relics are found not only in temples but also in the middle of ricefields.

A temple next to the Museum of Archaeology is Pura Kebo Edan. In it is a gigantic 3.6meter Bima statue that is described as dancing on a stack of skulls.
past, go to the Pura Pengukur-ukur in Pejeng Kelod. In this temple is found an inscription that dates back from 1116 Saka or 1194 A.D. This temple has a tight connection with the Prime Minister of the King of Bali. The Balinese consider Kebo Iwa to be a Balinese hero for his patriotic action against Gajah Mada, the leader of the Majapahit troops, with his mission to dominate Nusantara (the other name for
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the Indonesia archipelago), including Bali. Behind that temple there is a gateway with ancient stone steps named Goa Garba. Below the gateway there is a hole carved in a riverbank. It was considered Kebo Iwa’s meditating place. The shrine is just beside the river, so when you stand in front of the shrine, you will clearly hear the sound of water. It is an ideal place to meditate. There are no archaeological excavations

re-written through the Arjuna Wiwaha book by Mpu Kanwa, dating back to the 9th century. At the Arjuna Metapa site you can see that Arjuna is praying in order to acquire a magical weapon. Tracing the streams of Pakerisan and Petanu, and visiting the Pejeng village, helps us to understand ancient Bali and the Balinese through these various relics. ■ Text and photos by (Pejeng native) Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

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BEACHFRONT DISCOVERY

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ocated on the popular beachfront near the southern part of Kuta, the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas stand as among the most familiar and unofficial ‘landmarks’ of the area. The hotel offers a mix of 318 ocean view rooms, suites and luxury beachfront villas, all surrounding a splendid pool and spread over 8 hectares of tropical gardens. The villas form only one of the many

choices at the resort. More familiar are its Superior rooms, located on the second up to the fourth floor along the hotel’s perimeter, boasting comfortable and spacious rooms with garden views. Its Ocean View rooms are centered on the resort’s garden and main pool, and are uniquely angled for ocean, garden and pool views with their private triangle-shaped balconies. The Private Garden and Pool rooms in the main building have direct access from the private balcony to a private garden. Families may opt for the Garden View Family or Ocean Front rooms. The exclusive and stylish Discovery Beach Front Villas are very spacious. They each offer 24-hour butler service, air conditioning, and access to all the 5-star facilities of the hotel. The villas each have two master bedrooms, a kitchen, a luxurious bathroom,
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The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas is located on the popular beachfront of the southern part of Kuta, and stands as among the most familiar and unofficial landmarks of the area.

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The recently renovated beachfront villas are perfect for honeymooners and also for the ultimate seaside escape.

an outdoor tropical shower and a private plunge pool overlooking the sea. The most spacious Discovery Beach Front Villa can even be used for a wedding party of up to 20 people, making the precious moment even more memorable, matched with impressive decorations and combined with magnificent views, excellent food and service. The recently renovated villas are perfect for honeymooners and also for the ultimate seaside escape. All the rooms at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas have recently been upgraded to a very high standard, and this includes a free WiFi Internet connection. Dining choices abound. Enjoy one of the biggest breakfast buffets on the island at The Pond Café, which serves an ala

carte international menu all day as well as a weekly themed nightly dinner each evening. Teppan Noodle, one of the most reasonably priced Asian restaurants in Bali, serves sushi and sashimi and la carte Asian dishes such as the special Grilled Mahi-Mahi steak and Sop Buntut Goreng, the Indonesian favorite of ox-tail soup. La Cucina serves up Italian, with pasta, pizzas and light meals and seats up to 68 persons. The KulKul Bar is where you can swim to in the main pool and grab light snacks, pizzas, sandwiches, refreshing beverages and cocktails. The Sunset Lounge, located in the lobby, offers pool and ocean views and serves light snacks, assorted beverages and cocktails. The ‘Green Globe Benchmark’ status

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The hotel offers a mix of 318 ocean view rooms, suites and luxury beachfront villas, all surrounding a splendid pool and spread over 8 hectares of tropical gardens.

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According to the hotel staff, sea turtles regularly come ashore at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and the villas. To give them a better chance of survival on the busy beach, the eggs are relocated to the nearby hatchery.
and Best Practice results achiever is on its The resort has a wide choice of restaurants and sporting facilities as well as business and meeting facilities, and it shares its vicinity with the namesake grand Shopping Mall and beachfront amphitheater. path to securing a sustainable future for the environment. The first large scale solar hot water system in Bali has just started operating here. And recently, together with the Kuta Beach Sea Turtles Conservation, the Discovery Kartika Plaza started its ‘Protect The Sea Turtles’ program in late July, releasing 90 baby sea turtles on the hotel’s beachfront. This environmental event is planned to be held regularly at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel in cooperation with the Kuta Beach Sea Turtles Conservation during “turtle season”, to help create awareness and protect the sea turtles.
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According to the hotel staff, sea turtles regularly come ashore along Kuta Beach at the sandy beach in front of the hotel and the villas. To give them a better chance of survival on the busy beach, the eggs are relocated to the nearby hatchery. Guests at the Discovery Kartika Plaza should be ready for surprises, as they may well stumble upon ‘discoveries’ such as these. ■ Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi Courtesy photos ■ Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Bali, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta Beach, (0361) 751-067 www.discoverykartikaplaza.com

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

Whole W orld

I nspiring the

Following her inspiring concert in Jakarta, four-fingered pianist Hee Ah Lee visited Bali for a holiday as well as to hold a charity concert on August 14 in support of UNICEF, hosted by the Westin Resort Nusa Dua.
hen we were notified that The Westin Resort Nusa Dua was extending an effort to raise its special program, we thought, “ sure we’ll make it there... it might be Steinway’s Adam Gyorgy yearning to come back to the island again with another of his impressive recitals”. But our interest grew by leaps and bounds when it was revealed that this extraordinary guest was the four-fingered pianist Hee Ah Lee. Hee Ah Lee (born on July 9, 1985 in Seoul, Korea) was born with severe disabilities, including having only two fingers on each hand, no legs below the kneecaps, and mild brain damage. When she was 7 her mother, Woo Kap Sun, started her on the piano to train her hands, as she couldn’t even hold a pencil. Indonesia, amidst it August Independence Day celebrations, had the honor of having Hee Ah perform in Jakarta together with an orchestra of disabled children, to the awe of the audience. And following her inspiring concert in Indonesia’s capital city, the four-fingered pianist visited Bali for a holiday as well as to hold a charity concert on August 14 in support of UNICEF, hosted by the Westin Resort Nusa Dua. Shortly thereafter, Bali & Beyond’s Nyoman Ari Gunadi secured a brief meeting with this inspiring persona and her mother at the resort’s Club Lounge. Mild-mannered and smiling cheerfully as she entered on her wheelchair, assisted by her manager and mother, she immediately dispersed a unique aura throughout the lounge. And as soon she was assisted on to the sofa, she pressed her palms together and said the Balinese welcoming phrase “Om Swastiastu” fluently - to everyone’s

W

funds for the Check Out for Children program (a global partnership between Starwood Hotels & Resorts and UNICEF) and that The Westin Resort Nusa Dua was to invite an extraordinary pianist to

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Surely I will! When the concert evening came, she performed 10 compositions, including the promised “Fantasia Impromptu”, a simple example of the achievement made by Hee. And the surprise followed after, as Hee not only could play the piano, but could sing as well. Sun came to the stage to talk together with Hee in between her compositions, and joked that her daughter’s singing was “not as good as her piano playing.” But the audience in general considered her voice “unique”. Another surprise was that she sang the heartfelt Indonesian song “Bunda” fluently in Indonesian, while her piano partner Lee Chun Hee played the grand piano. “Bunda”, meaning “mother” in Indonesian, was her tribute of respect and love to her mother, the “figure in the background” of her success. The bond surprise. In broken English, with the aid of an interpreter, we engaged in a warm conversation with Hee Ah. Hello Hee Ah, you sound as if you’ve been on the island for a while already! How do you find it so far? (Slightly giggling) Thank you. Just picking up some phrases. Matur sukseme... (“Thank you” in Balinese). It’s a beautiful place, certainly different from Jakarta. I’m enjoying it! Sun, tell us a bit about how you got Hee Ah on the piano? When I started her learning the piano at the age of 6, no piano teacher would see her so she practiced with me instead. At first she couldn’t even tap a beat with her left hand while her right hand played the melody. It took her six months just to be able to pick up and play the “Butterfly”, a Korean folksong. Hee Ah, how do you recall that experience? Even though I practiced rigorously so that my four-fingered performance could sound What can we expect to see at your concert, “Dream the Impossible Dream” later? Just like its theme, I wish to inspire all to make their dreams come true. I’ll be playing 10 piano compositions... and there’ll be a bit of surprise... Be there, okay? Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali (0361) 771-906; www.westin.com/bali www.heeah.com
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just like a ten-fingered performance, I could only play with my fingers until a special pedal was brought up. Since then I have had four different piano teachers. What’s your favorite piece? Chopin’s Fantasie Impromptu. I started to learn when I was 12, and it took me 5 years and 6 months to master. Practiced 10 hours a day. This piece became an inspiration of hope for listeners. You obviously have many fans worldwide. Who are you a fan of? Yes. Back in 2005 I had the wonderful opportunity to perform together with Richard Clayderman through “A Ballad for 14 Fingers”. I’m a big fan of him. My other idols are Mother Theresa and Gandhi.

between them was ever apparent, and the ambience of love was reflected through the touching song, easily bringing tears to some of the audience’s eyes - but not for too long. Hee Ah is a cheerful soul, and her heart is magnificent. Spontaneous applause filled the air many times, together with laughter and cheers as she and her mother exchanged jokes through their brief presentations. Hee Ah even brought a wave of laughter to the audience as she rendered her interpreter short of words, and when she jokingly called Andry, the Westin host and MC that evening, “MC the handsome”. Hee Ah Lee and Sun continue to bring hope and inspiration to the world in appreciation for life, bringing home the message that you can never judge a person by their size or the limitations of their physique, but rather by the magnitude of their heart. ■

PONDERINGPOINT

“TRULY” INDONESIA

Malaysia has used Bali’s Pendet dance in its tourism promotion, and it has become a serious issue in Indonesia.
subject. Previously, the neighboring country has ‘claimed’ several others such as the Reog dance from Ponorogo in East Java, the song Rasa Sayange from Maluku, the Hombo Batu tradition, the Folaya dance from Nias Island in North Sumatera, and the Angklung orchestra from West Java. This has caused various reactions from society. However, when it comes to a conclusion, nearly all express their disapproval of Malaysia’s act. Although the society has grown restless from the matter, it is indeed a bilateral matter between two countries so it must be addressed by the government. On August 22, several social elements in Bali voiced their concerns. They expressed that this matter must not be ignored. They were right in that eventually all Indonesia’s heritage might as well become Malaysia’s. Meanwhile Malaysia reaps short and longterm profits, and eventually everyone would consider Indonesia a loser, as they would regard Malaysia as the ‘bona fide’ owner due to its incessant promotion overseas. It is almost a rule that history is made by those who have access and doctrinize their version of the truth continuously to people until they no longer know the real truth. Yet the matter then faces the fact of who must register the patent for this dance, and all of the cultural items that are a people’s heritage. Due to its communal cultural nature, even the local society has no idea who created the dance in the first place and exactly when the creative process took place. Logically those having the right to patent something are the creators, thus the government has no right to patent it. Malaysia, one of the countries that borders Indonesia, has indeed recently launched aggressive tourism promotions. Their motto “Malaysia Truly Asia” tries to show that they have a multiethnic (Asian) population that lives side by side in harmony and have contributed much to the Malaysia cultural scene. It is with no doubt that Malaysia has close historical ties with Indonesia. Both countries derive from the same Malay linguistic family, and in the 14th century Malaysia (or at that time known as Malacca) was under the Majapahit Kingdom’s sovereignty. But this in no way means that what Indonesia possesses also becomes Malaysia’s. Both countries must uphold and respect sovereignty, ownership, and good bilateral relations. Some people have jokingly expressed that hopefully the day will never come when the motto changes to “Malaysia Truly Indonesia”, as too much Indonesian culture and heritage is claimed by the country, because in the end it would result in harsh relations between the two countries and a negative impact on tourism in the long run. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photo by Gustra

R

ecently Malaysia has been using the Pendet dance from Bali in some of their tourism promotional material. This has now come to the attention of the Balinese, as previously there had been ‘claims’ over several Indonesian cultural heritage subjects taken by the neighboring country.

Many people who decide to go for their holidays to Bali are

attracted by its unique culture and traditions. One of the myriad of Balinese dances that are quite popular is the Pendet. In the beginning the dance functioned as a ceremonial opening dance, but later evolved into a secular function as a welcoming dance for important arriving guests. Professor Wayan Dibia from the Indonesian Arts Institute in Bali, who is an avid performing artist himself, explained that the Pendet came from the tradition of ‘memendet’, which is to mark the opening of a religious ceremony. Typical attributes include heeling movements and the pressing of palms together as though in worship. Also typical is the act of sprinkling and tossing flower petals. This dance later inspired the birth of other ‘new creation’ dances. Yet lately the Balinese have been surprised by the headlines about the use of the Pendet dance as part of Malaysia’s tourism promotion. By doing so, it is regarded that Malaysia ‘has’ the Pendet and is inviting people to come and view the performance in their country. Malaysia owns the Pendet? This claiming of Indonesian culture by Malaysia is not a new

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

Bali Hai Cruises has joined forces with the Kurma Asih village foundation and Conservation International through a new turtle ‘adoption and release’ initiative on the island of Lembongan.

T

he invitation came from Bali Hai’s Director of Operations, Poldi Ridge, as they were underway with their marvelous new Turtle Release Cruise. The company, to the salute of other members in the tourism industry and

the environmental conservation community, now includes this form of turtle conservation in its tour packages, combining a fun leisure activity, social responsibility and environmental awareness all in one. And so we gladly accepted the invitation to attend one fine Tuesday in early July. Travel agents, members of the press and turtle admirers gathered in the morning at Bali’s Benoa Harbor, anxious to climb aboard the Bali Hai II to Nusa Lembongan. But before getting on board, we listened to a brief presentation on what we were to expect on the island. Present were Bali Hai’s Director of Sales Pande Ardika as well as Ketut Sarjana Putra, the Marine Program Director for Conservation International Indonesia and a member of the Marine

High Hopes

HATCHLINGS’

A cute Olive Ridley hatchling instinctively hurrying toward the sea. Opposite page: waves await at Sunset Beach on Lembngan Island.

Turtle Specialist Group which would also be the key speaker at the main presentation on Lembongan. We then took off in the Bali Hai II and arrived “land-ahoy!” in less than an hour. However, the catamaran had to transfer the excited load of passengers to its fun-filled marine activity pontoon first, where we got to have a half an hour go at a semi-submersible tour, admiring the beauty

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and aquatic life under the surface of Lembongan’s waters. On the pontoon’s deck were large green fiberglass containers that contained some cute Olive Ridley hatchlings, where the guests could have their first glimpse of the little creatures. Pak Ardika first explained a bit about the specimens to us, then our Adopt a Turtle group were led onto a motorized long boat to be transferred to the island. Crossing to the island in no time, refreshments and welcome drinks awaited before we continued towards a shelter where Pak Ketut Sarjana Putra

of Conservation International explained to the attentive participants about this “best practice” in preserving Indonesia’s endangered turtle population. With past efforts to save more turtles plagued by a lack of funds, Ketut is hopeful that the donations from Bali Hai Cruises and their future passengers will enable even more turtles to be saved in the future. Bali Hai Cruises has worked together with the villages of Kurma Asih in this initiative through an adoption and release method. So far it has adopted over a hundred nests with 300 hatchlings released, and is looking for further

expansion possibilities. Like other sea turtles, Olive Ridleys will swim across large bodies of water, mating and exploring the world, yet the females will always come back to Perancak Beach – which has the largest turtle population in Indonesia – for nesting. Currently the Kurma Asih Foundation has 364 nests in its conservatory, with an average 80 eggs per nest. Ketut explained that Indonesia has 134 nesting spots in its beaches, with Green Sea Turtles being the majority species. Globally, the sea turtle population was missing from the world for 45 years.
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... a very worthy program and one which all visitors to the small island should participate in. For just US$10 you can adopt and release a baby turtle - and name it... and kiss it goodbye... - and memories will last forever.

Sunset Beach, on the southeastern edge of Nusa Lembongan, was the chosen location where participants had the chance to participate in releasing their ‘adopted’ baby turtles back into the sea. The new highlight adds to the existing activities at the Bali Hai Beach Club.

Perancak Beach in Bali however, had a 30-year gap before their return. It is due to these many missing years that most of sea turtles species are listed as endangered. Bali also has the somewhat shocking history of eating turtle meat. And according to Ketut, this led to huge complaints from many countries around the world. And it was around 20 years ago that Ketut decided to turn his full attention to sea turtle conservation. “Among my main goals was to reform the Balinese mindset about the use of sea turtles as food, rather than being repressive. Fortunately it turned out to be a successful effort.” In 1996, Ketut met Wayan Tirtan, a former sea turtle hunter and the eventual founder of the Kurma Asih Foundation. “Back when I started the whole
38 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

campaign, there were about 30,000 turtles being slaughtered yearly. Now, there are almost none,” said Ketut. However, some places on the island still offer illegal sea turtle satay and lawar, off-the-record. After the inspiring presentation at Bali Hai’s Beach Club, which opened new horizons among the participants, the ‘adopters’ hopped into the bemos owned and operated by the village community and headed towards Sunset Beach, a place on the southeastern edge of Nusa Lembongan that was the chosen location for guests to have the chance to participate in releasing their ‘adopted’ baby turtles back into the sea. Olive Ridleys are lightly built turtles that have an average adult weight of around 50 kg. They have a high-domed shell with a carapace length of only 70 cm. The

carapace is a dark olive green in color with a yellowish underside, hence the name. When they are young, Olive Ridley turtles have black-colored shells, which are actually scales to protect themselves as they live around reefs. At the age of three, the color of the penyu sisik semu will turn grayish. And by the age of 10 they will turn brownish and totally lose their scales. It is believed that the Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea), also known in Indonesian as penyu sisik semu literally ‘psuedo-fish-scale turtle’, return to nest on the same beach where they hatched. Olive Ridleys are omnivorous, feeding on crabs, shrimp, rock lobsters, sea grass, algae, snails, fish, sessile, pelagic tunicates and small invertebrates. They are sometimes seen feeding on jellyfish in shallow waters
BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009 39

PHOTO BY ARVID NICOLAS

PHOTO BY JESPER MEYER

PHOTO BY HARY SUBASTIAN

Besides the new turtle release highlight, Bali Hai Cruises has the fun-filled Reef Cruise pontoon, a semi-submersible to view the beauty of the underwater realm, a private ‘Castaway Cruise’ onboard its Aristocat sailing catamaran, and accommodation options with its collection of Hai Tide Huts.

and can forage offshore in surface waters, but can dive to depths of 150 meters. This unique conservation program underway with Bali Hai Cruises does more than merely help save the turtles. Villagers are also rewarded for turtle eggs they bring into the safety of the hatchery, preserving them from dogs and other natural predators. The money paid to the villagers provides additional income for them. Later in the process, local people are also employed to take care of the hatchlings until they are eventually released back into the sea. The project is run under the continuous support and supervision of Conservation International Indonesia, Pak Ketut and his team, who assure proper care while keeping detailed records for research purposes. The participants, who also consisted of children, eagerly watched the about 100 adopted baby Olive Ridley turtles that were
40 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

packed into a white Styrofoam box, waiting for their chance to choose one that they could then release. Several hours before, the turtles had been sent all the way from the Kurma Asih Foundation at Perancak Beach in the Jembrana Regency to Nusa Penida’s Lembongan Island — some 22 kilometers east of the Bali strait. The baby turtles instinctively headed for the waves. Some turtles were momentarily tossed back by the torrents, only to get back on their flaps and scuttle towards the waves before eventually disappearing into the white foam. Some guests gave their released turtle names, before watching them hurry into the water. Some, although in only such a brief encounter, became quite attached to their adopted child that brought cheers as well as tears. But overall it did provide a ‘release’ for each adopter. Each of the tiny hatchlings made it

successfully home and the empty sand left only the happy participants moving slowly back from the waves. It was quite impressive to see the interest from all the participants, the children in particular, having felt so ‘close to nature’. In all, this is a very worthy program and one which all visitors to the small island should participate in. For just US$10 you can adopt and release a baby turtle - and name it... and kiss it goodbye... and memories will last forever. The Bali Hai Turtle Team is also currently running multiple release cruises. Please contact them for release schedules and further program information. ■ Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

■ Bali Hai Cruises Turtle Team Benoa Harbor, (0361) 720-331 www.balihaicruises.com

COURTESY PHOTO

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BEYONDBALI

The beach at Lombang on the eastern tip of Madura. Right: there are deserted beaches like this one at Slopeng all along the north and east coasts; and all of the adult population is employed in the manufacture of salt in the village of Pinggir Papas.

Balinese heritage in a Madura village
42 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

NYADAR:

The discovery of Balinese heritage in a remote village on the Muslim island of Madura reveals a people proud of their unique heritage.

head cloths prepare offerings of leaves, petals and holy water for the spirits of the ancestors while women load ceremonial platters with sacred rice. But this is not Hindu Bali; this a remote village near Sumenep on the Muslim island of Madura. Here a community of salt-makers holds annual ceremonies to give thanks for their prosperity and to commemorate their ancestors – a party of Balinese soldiers. Madura is separated from East Java by a narrow strait. Sometime soon a bridge will connect the island with the nearby city of Surabaya, and Merpati Airline plans to

T

he murmur of Sanskrit mantras drift through the village beneath the whiteflowered frangipani trees. In the shade of a communal pavilion, old men with batik

start flights to Sumenep from Surabaya and Bali. But for now the only way to reach Madura is by ferry. A history of rebellion against the kingdoms of old Java, coupled with mass immigration from the island in more recent years, has left many Indonesians nervous of the place and hardly likely to recommend it as a holiday destination, so few people visit. This is a shame, for the Madurese people are among the friendliest you’ll meet, and the landscape of limestone hills and rice and tobacco fields is remarkably beautiful, also with some perfect deserted beaches on the eastern coastline. Madura’s reputation as rough and uncultured proves wildly unfounded in the old royal capital of Sumenep, which boasts a fine palace, or keraton, the last one surviving in the province of East Java.

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Villagers rush to be first into the inner sanctuary that houses the tombs of their ancestors.

Madura’s reputation as rough and uncultured proves wildly unfounded in the old royal capital of Sumenep which boasts a fine palace, or keraton, the last surviving in East Java.

Long the seat of Madurese kings, people here are proud of their refined and courtly traditions. Beyond Sumenep there is plenty more to explore. Aside from the beaches and beautiful landscapes there is the fascinating traditional culture. In the village of Slopeng you’ll see the very best of the carved dance masks found in Bali’s upmarket souvenir shops, made by craftsmen who learned the trade from their own fathers. In other villages, batik and inlayed woodwork are specialties. But nothing is quite as fascinating as the mysterious ceremonies known as Nyadar, held by the people of Pinggir Papas. Pinggir Papas lies beyond the fringe of the forested land southeast of Sumenep. The village is surrounded by a stark moonscape of salt pans, and every adult in the community works in the salt industry. According to legend, the process of making salt was discovered many centuries ago

by Angga Suto, a local holy man. Angga Suto was walking across the mudflats that surrounded what was then a poor fishing village, when he noticed that the seawater that gathered in his own footprints left a crust of fine, white salt crystals when it evaporated But it is not just their trade that makes the people of Pinggir Papas unusual. Other Madurese confirm that the salt-makers speak a strange dialect, riddled with Balinese words, for their forefathers actually came from Bali. In the 1560s, the story goes, a Balinese king led an army against Sumenep. They landed on Madura’s eastern coast and advanced on the royal capital. But the Madurese soon drove the invaders out, torching their camps and destroying their warships. One small band of Balinese soldiers fled the battlefield and found their way to a salty village on the coast where

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they begged for asylum. It was given, on the condition that they converted to Islam, and so the refugees settled in Pinggir Papas, intermarrying with the locals and creating a unique syncretic culture all their own. More than four hundred years later this Balinese heritage still finds expression in the Nyadar ritual. Three times a year during the dry season on dates that are fixed according to the full moon, the people of Pinggir Papas leave their work on the salt pans to don traditional dress and cross a narrow river through the mangrove forest to the neighboring community of Kebun Dadap, where Angga Suto and the other revered ancestors are buried. The sacred tombs stand on a low hilltop amongst the trees beside the river. It is here that the Nyadar ritual is held. Every family brings a package of petals and shredded leaves – reminiscent of the daily Balinese offerings – to place before the

ancestral shrines. Nyadar is the most important time of year for the people of Pinggir Papas, and even those who have left Madura to seek work in the big cities return for the ceremony. And when the gate of the complex that houses the tombs of the ancestors is opened, a spectacular though good-natured struggle erupts to be first into the inner sanctum. Old men in batik sarongs leap over gravestones, pushing the younger men aside in their mad dash, while bulky women in headscarves jostle with their own husbands and sons for a prime position. Once everyone has squeezed into the inner courtyard, prayers mixing Sanskrit and Arabic are made and the tombs are anointed with petals and holy water. Villagers mark their foreheads with a murky paste made from rice-water and betel nut – another mysterious echo of Hindu practice.

When the sun sets, the people of Pinggir Papas do not return home across the river. Instead they take refuge with the villagers of Kebun Dadap and spend the long, hot night preparing offerings of rice to be heaped in a neat cone on special plates known as panjeng – an important heirloom for each family. At first light the next morning the village alleyways are deserted. The salt-makers have returned to the shaded ground near the tombs for the second stage of the Nyadar ritual. Here an enormous spread of upturned red and black baskets sheltering the rice offerings make a bizarre sight. A traditional religious leader known as a kyai leads the ceremonies, reciting a string of Arabic prayers, Sanskrit mantras and fragments of old Javanese and Balinese, blending the sacred languages of Islam and Hinduism into a seamless chant. Four old men called pangolo assist the

The royal tombs, burial place of the kings of Sumenep, at Asta Tinggi near Sumenep.

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TANJUNGBUMI

MADURA
SUMENEP KALIANGET SAPUDI ISLAND

BANGKALAN

Madura Island
SAMPANG PAMEKASAN

SURABAYA CAMPLONG GILIRAYA ISLAND GILI-GENTENG ISLAND

RAAS ISLAND

The people of Pinggir Papas are proud of their unique heritage, and for them the Nyadar ritual and the memory of Angga Suto are at the heart of their culture.
During the Nyadar ceremony graves are blessed with holy water and offerings of petals and betel nut are made.

kyai. They wear patchwork waistcoats of colored cloth, passed down through the generations and only used during the Nyadar ritual. Their task is to make a careful count of the rice offerings. When prayers are over, the villagers open the baskets and scoff a few handfuls of the rice, now blessed by god and the ancestors. Then they hurry home to Pinggir

Papas where the sacred rice is dried then a little of it added to the cooking pot each morning during the coming year, passing its luck and blessings on and into the daily meal. Within half an hour the place is deserted, with only a few scraps of leaves fluttering on the soft breeze to mark where the ritual took place. The people of Pinggir Papas are proud

of their unique heritage, and for them the Nyadar ritual and the memory of Angga Suto are at the heart of their culture. They are happy to let respectful visitors watch the event – and even to share a little of their sacred rice with them when prayers are over. And although they consider themselves to be devout Muslims, they are proud of their Balinese heritage and of the hospitality that saw their ancestors give asylum on this remote coastline. The Nyadar ritual is their way of showing this. ■ Text and photos by Tim Hannigan For information about the Nyadar ceremony, or about Sumenep and the rest of Madura (well worth a visit at any time of year), you can contact Kurniadi Wijaya of the official Sumenep tourist office. He can

INDONESIA
46 BALI&BEYOND SEPTEMBER 2009

be reached on (+62) 081-793-306-48 or at kurniadi@consultant.com.

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CAPITALCORNER

A huge mural of spaceships and some other objects by the internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta artist Eko Nugroho fill the interior features of the recently-opened Potato Head.

THE HOT I

sn’t it always interesting to see what kind of places steal the hearts of Jakarta’s hang-out goers? Having heard all the buzz and fuss about the recently-opened Potato Head, Kathy Petite decided to bring her inquisitive

& SMASHING
POTATO
SEPTEMBER 2009

mind and appetite to this hot and hip restaurant on the outer edge of Pacific Place’s ground floor. But it’s not a weekend today! That’s what I mumbled to myself with a tone of surprise while looking at the mostlyoccupied tables and the crowd that was queuing at the front. Is it a magnet of being a new place or what it offers that leads to this addiction? I was about to find out. Walking into the place for the first time, what caught my eye was the huge mural of spaceships and some other objects by the internationally acclaimed Yogyakarta artist

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Eko Nugroho. Cute and warm, it brings out the playful side of the restaurant. I walked further. On my left side, opposite the giant mural wall, was a long bar. Going up to the upper floor there is a comfortable mezzanine reached by traversing a wooden bridge. The subtle lighting of the space was accompanied a lovey-dovey couple in their mid-twenties exchanging passionate looks. Next to their table was a gathering of friends, bursting out in laughter and engaging in chitchat. But even more liveliness came from the outdoor area downstairs. Cozy large lounge sofas and tables were crowded by yuppies and expats sipping different kinds of colorful cocktails and munching appetizers. It was fun and relaxed. Having taken a glimpse of the place I finally sat down at my reserved table. There were four starters listed on the menu and they all did a good job of making me drool. The Trio of Mini Flat Bread came on a wooden platter. There was seared Tasmanian salmon, thin slices of beef tenderloin, and crispy Peking duck with cucumber scallion salad.

Accompanied by sweet caramelized onions on a bed of wild rocket, the beef tenderloin was nice and juicy. The salmon got along very well with its spicy and sour tropical fruit salsa, whereas the Peking duck was very rich although a bit sweet. The joy of a crunchy bite came from the Nori Wrapped Prawn. The dish they gave me had a plate of three crispy prawn “spring rolls” wrapped in Japanese seaweed and a tiny bowl of creamy roasted capsicum wasabi dip. A sizeable amount, enough

to share with a couple of friends. Chicken and Prawn Dumpling came next. Freshly homemade, the dumpling was filled with minced chicken, prawn and mixed spices drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty chili vinegar dressing. For Escargot fans, Potato Head offers a rich one that was prepared with gratin of garlic and herb butter. For sandwich or bread junkies, the Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich is a great option. Coming on a wooden cutting board, you

“Having taken a glimpse of the place I finally sat down at my reserved table. There were four starters listed on the menu and they all did a good job of making me drool.”

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The desserts are another side of heaven. Don’t you dare walk out of the place without trying the heavensent Oven Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when it gets soaked and drowned in the melting vanilla ice cream.

will be blown away by the satisfaction of enjoying the big, thick, long bread with melted white cheese covering the top. Stuffed inside were thin slices of tenderloin steak sautéed with sweet onions and mixed mushrooms. Lying next to it was a handful of French fries and a small portion of salad. If you desire no presence of meat, you will still find gastronomic pleasure at Potato Head. The Grilled Vegetable Panini is proof. It’s ciabatta bread filled with a mix of grilled vegetables and sweet basil served with homemade tomato jam. As usual, choosing the main course could not be done instantly. Spoiling me
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with saliva-inducing names, I had to take some time before putting my finger on something. Enjoying the Basmati Basil Rice Pilaf, the Lemon Chili Garlic Prawn came in quite a hearty portion. But what turned out to be the ultimate satisfaction from the main courses was certainly the Char Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef Tenderloin Tornado. Made perfectly with caramelized onions and a mixed peppercorn sauce that was all buttery and sweet, every slice was a tender and succulent delight. Coming with baby cress salad, you can choose either shoestring potato fries or mashed potatoes. With a combo of green capers,

chili, garlic, sweet cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves, the Tuna Spaghetti Aglio Olio came as a delicious pick from the list of pastas. A thought came to my mind. Would it be a real Potato Head evening without exploring their cocktails? Of course not. Getting ready to drink more than just the very adventurous Ice Lemon Tea, I turned my eye towards their extensive list of cocktails. For Martinis only, there is quite a range of choices including a Vanilla & Maple Syrup Martini, the PH Espresso Martini, the JM’s Martini and the Pistachio/ Rock Melon Martini just to mention a few.

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JM’s Martini came in a deep seductively Freshly homemade, Chicken Prawn Dumplings were filled with minced chicken, prawn and mixed spices drowned in a deep brown, kind of salty chili vinegar dressing. red color with a slice of dragon fruit, while the Pistachio/RockMelon Martini offered a mix of fruit with the zing of vodka. With shaken vodka and a twist of lime and lemon, the Citrus Sorbet Gimlet came out zesty and refreshing. The stronger kick came from their Mary’s such as the Potato Head Signature Mary and the Australian, the latter requiring a little time to get used to its bitter taste. For something simpler and lighter, go for Bellini. The desserts are another side of heaven. Don’t you dare to walk out of the place without trying the heaven-sent Oven Baked Apple Berry Crumble. Even when it gets soaked and drowned in the melting vanilla ice cream, no piece of it got soggy, it stayed crispy. Another to die for dessert is the Blueberry Galette, crumbly polenta galette wedges with blueberries and sweet lemon infused in a yoghurt topping. Or
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try the moist Warm Sticky Toffee Date Pudding. A range of delectable flavors from Haagen-Dazs ice creams are available too. If sharing, enjoy the sinful delight of the Mini Profiteroles Glace, showered with warm chocolate sauce. See if you still want to share it the next time you come! Starters range from Rp 42,000 (NoriWrapped Prawn) to Rp 55,000 (Escargots or Trio of Mini Flatbread). Mains start from Rp 80,000 and go up to Rp 260,000 for the Char-Grilled Prime Black Angus Beef Tenderloin. Desserts are from Rp 40,000 to Rp 55,000 with Rp 25,000 for each scoop of ice cream. Cocktails range from Rp 80,000 to Rp 95,000. ■ Text and photos by Kathy Petite

■ Potato Head, Pacific Place Mall G51A, SCBD, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, (021) 5797-3322

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BEYONDUPDATES

FROM EAST TO WEST
Aston International announces the opening of its Aston Natsepa Ambon Resort & Spa as the first internationally managed 4 star resort in Ambon. The hotel offers 96 deluxe rooms and suites, all with large private balconies and breathtaking ocean views. Also recently announced was its three star Aston City Hotel brand expansion by signing a management agreement for the Aston Soll Marina City Hotel on Sumatra’s Bangka Island. The new property is the 10th hotel to become a member of Indonesia’s fastest growing 3 star hotel group and will feature 120 modern and functional rooms and several meeting rooms. Aston International, (021) 831-8800; www.aston-international.com

RETAINING REPUTATION
Telkomsel has successfully maintained its award status for 7 consecutive years for its kartuHALO postpaid services and simPATI prepaid services. Pictured is Telkomsel Merchant Program Manager Abdullah Fahmi (right) at the Indonesian Best Brand Award (IBBA) 2009 reception with SWA magazine Editorial Head Kemal Effendi Gani (left) and MARS Director Asto Sunu Subroto in July. Telkomsel achieved the highest IBBA Platinum Award rating for retaining its status. The IBBA award presented by SWA Sembada magazine and MARS marketing research institute is a form of appreciation of brands with the best business operations throughout the year. Surveys are carried out over a number of product categories in 7 large cities in Indonesia (Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Makassar, Medan, Semarang, and Balikpapan) and involve 2,600 respondents through multistage random samplings. www.telkomsel.com

EPIC INSPIRED
The Hotel Tugu Lombok has been listed in the Hot List of the World’s Top New Hotels 2009 in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine, featuring beautiful artifacts and antiques with a heavenly tropical landscape, as well as an architectural style that has been inspired by the beautiful legends of the Mahabharata epic. In 1361 three books were written by Empu Prapanca from the Majapahit Kingdom. The most famous one is known as Negara Krtagama, literally ‘the course of the creation of a country’, and was recorded during the golden times of King Hayam Wuruk. The Negara Krtagama describes East Javanese temples that functioned as a silent, peaceful places to worship. It is these temples in Negara Krtagama which inspired the architecture of the Hening Swarga Spa Temple at Hotel Tugu Lombok. The open-air spa temple boasts giant open-air room with nooks lit by oil lamps, an extra-long spa bed for both spouses to enjoy treatment headto-head, and a giant Jacuzzi bathtub with jets. Facing the Indian Ocean, reliefs of temples and staircases lead up to the top of the temple and then to a magical dinner under a full moon. Yoga or meditation can be held next to the soaring tower of beautiful Singhasari and Majapahit statues with a 180-degree ocean view surrounded by palm trees. Contact Hotel Tugu Lombok for this month’s interesting packages. Hotel Tugu Lombok, Sire Beach, Sigar Penjalin village, Tanjung, Lombok, (0370) 620-111; www.tuguhotels.com
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BEYONDUPDATES

APPRECIATION OF LIFE
Vivi Yip Art Room presents an exhibition of art in appreciation of life through Faeries. The meaning of life is not always arrived upon at the conclusion of a grand debate or journey. It can be felt. It can be sensed. It can be stumbled upon like delicate little plants that strive for light in the most unlikely places. Attempting to grow out of the darkest chasm – even polluted places long abandoned. Absorbing carbon from the air to free oxygen, giving green hope to grey bareness. Faeries represent this subtle, eternal striving to move towards light. Vivi Yip Art Room celebrates this hope through the works of eight visual artists (Ali Rubin, Erika Ernawan, Indra Leonardi, Lovis Ostenrik, Mayumi Haryoto, Rudi Mantofani, Syagini Ratna Wulan, and Tromarama). Many forms came to be in the space dedicated for faeries. Each artist’s visual exploration of the friction between these magical forces of hope with his or her personal concerns became sculptures, paintings on mirrors, photography printed on canvas, manual and digital illustrations, installations and a video documentary. Vivi Yip Art Room, Lot 2-3 The Promenade Jl. Warung Buncit Raya 98, South Jakarta (021) 7900-480; www.viviyipartroom.com

PAINTING PAILS
The Melia Purosani Hotel donated painting pails to the Taman Pintar in Yogyakarta on August 1st to show their commitment to society and to the environment through its Community Involvement Program. The Melia Purosani invited elementary school students in Yogyakarta to join in cleanup and painting activities. They collected 23 garbage bins and donated them to Taman Pintar, a city park built by the Yogyakarta government as a place where people can study and relax. This program’s aim is to encourage the students’ sense of belonging to the environment. The assignment was opened by Edy Heri Suasana, manager of Taman Pintar, and followed by Melia Purosani management and Yogyakarta’s city government officials. Melia Purosani Hotel, Yogyakarta, (0274) 589-521 www.meliajogja.com

ILLUMINATION
The Tony Raka Art Gallery in Jakarta presents an art exhibition titled “Illumination”, presenting paintings by selected contemporary artists including Mangu Putra, FX Harsono, Putu Sutawijaya, Yunizar, Sutjipto Adi, Made Djirna, I.B. Purwa, Made Arya Palguna, Wayan Sujana Kenyem, Wayan Sudarna Putra, Rudy Sri Handoko, Ipong Purnama Sidhi, Walter van Oel, and Filippo Sciascia. They belong to different generations of artists who actively color the Indonesian art scene today – from the “senior” ones such as FX Harsono (b. 1949) to the younger ones such as I.B Purwa (b. 1977). This exhibition is designed to highlight some interesting facets of Indonesian contemporary art, and will be held at the Sampoerna Strategic Square, Exhibition Room #GF – 03A, Ground Floor, North Tower, Jl. Jendral Sudirman, Kav 45, Jakarta, from Monday – Friday: 10 am – 7 pm, Saturday – Sunday: 10 am– 5 pm, and runs through September 13. Tony Raka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas No. 86, Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

THISORIENTED 2ND STAGE
Biasa Artspace presents an exhibition featuring the works of Matteo Basilé through September 30. This exhibition is in collaboration with Il Ponte Contemporanea - Rome. It is the second chapter of a project that Basilé recently presented at the 53rd Venice Biennial (2009). Biasa Artspace, Jl. Raya Seminyak 34, Kuta (0361) 847-5766, www.biasaart.com

EMOTIONAL ALLEGORIES
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of paintings by Ida Bagus Ipong Purnama Sidhi titled ‘Emotional Allegories’ from September 3 to October 5. In his current work each canvas is dominated by a human figure(s) or face displaying a distinct emotional state. Interaction with others and symbolic peripheral images are used to create virtual allegories. Ipong’s technique is strongly influenced by graphic art sensibilities with extensive use of black outlines over bright colours. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay (0361) 701-010, www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

‘TERRORANCE TOLERISM’
Hanna Art Space presents a painting exhibition featuring the works of I Ketut Teler titled ‘Terrorance Tolerism’ from September 11 - 30. Works by I Ketut Teler are inspired by his deep journey and fight to invent the essence of diversity. The differences in color, ideology and or clan sometimes raise conflict. The two inseparable sides are only harmonized with tolerance (accepting diversity as the power of life). Hanna Artspace, Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, (0361) 978-216 www.hannaartspace.blogspot.com

THE GARDEN
Komaneka Fine Art Gallery presents an exhibition titled Taman, literally meaning ‘garden’ in Indonesian, featuring the works of namesake artist Pande Ketut Taman. Following his last solo exhibition in Jakarta in 2004, Pande Ketut Taman now returns working with various forms and elements upon his canvases. Elements are present in the form of paintings, sculptures and installations. The exhibition opens September 25 and runs through October 25. The gallery is open everyday from 8 am – 8 pm. Komaneka at Monkey Forest, Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, (0361) 976-090, www.komaneka.com

BEJEWELED
The Gallery Boutique of the Maya Ubud Resort & Spa features a unique collection of jeweled batik tapestries designed by Annemarie Kipar that are on display through September 15. The German-born artist decorates her beautiful batik selection with beads, sequins and stones piece by piece, creating beautifully glittering tapestries. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa (0361) 977-888 www.mayaubud.com
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MEMORY OF ASIA
Tonyraka Art Gallery presents an exhibition of art by Midori Hirota from September 3 to 26. Hirota has singlehandedly restored between herself, the Japanese woman and the war victims of the Japanese, the bond of humanity. Tonyraka Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas, Ubud, (0361) 781-6785, www.tonyrakaartgallery.com

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MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH
RETROSPECTIVE
Griya Santrian present the works of I Nyoman Mandra, the leading artist of the “classical” school of Balinese painting, the art of the Kamasan village in Klungkung. Born in 1946, Mandra comes from an important family of artists, his maternal grandfather being Rambug, probably the best of the painters working in the late 19th and early 20th century. Mandra is exhibiting his works in Griya Santrian through September 30. There are also some Kamasan works of Mangku Sura, I Wayan Pande Sumantra, Ni Wayan Sri Widani, I Nyoman Adi Prabawa, and Ni Made Sri Rahayu at the Gallery. Griya Santrian Gallery, Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur (0361) 288-181, www.santrian.com
September 1 Police Women’s Day National observance September 4 Purnama ketiga, The third full moon Balinese Hindu observance September 8 Alphabet (Aksara) Day National observance International Literacy Day. International observance recognized by the UN Its aim is to highlight the importance of literacy to individuals, communities and societies. September 9 National Sports Day National observance September 11 Indonesian Radio Day National observance World First Aid Day International observance September 15 International Day of Democracy International observance recognized by UN September 16 International Day for Preservation of the Ozone Layer International observance recognized by UN September 17 Indonesian Red Cross Day National observance National Transportation Day National observance September 18 Tilem ketiga, The third New Moon Balinese Hindu observance September 19 Tumpek Pengatag/Uduh, Day devoted to Sang Hyang Sangkara, guardian of plants Balinese Hindu observance International Talk Like a Pirate Day. Parody holiday created in 1995 by John Baur and Mark Summers of Albany, Oregon. September 20 Hari Puputan Badung Commemorating the Badung Kingdom’s war against the Dutch, culminating in the whole royal family committing suicide Local Bali observance September 21 and 22 Idul Fitri 1430 Hijriyah, Muslim New Year - Muslim observance September 21 International Day of Peace. Dedicated to peace (specifically the absence of war) such as might be occasioned by temporary ceasefire in a combat zone. International observance, recognized by the UN World Alzheimer’s Day International observance September 22 World Car Free Day International day September 24 Agricultural Day National observance September 26 Statistics Day National observance European Day of Languages Aimed to encourage language learning across European countries. European observance September 27 Post, Telecommunications and Telegraph Day National observance World Tourism Day International observance September 28 Railway Day National observance Right to Know Day International observance World Rabies Day A global initiative to raise awareness about the continuing burden of rabies and how the disease can be prevented International observance September 29 National Scholar’s Day National observance September 30 Commemoration of the September 30, 1965 movement. National observance Last week of September World Maritime Day International observance, recognized by the UN.

RIPPLES
Alila Living Gallery at Alila Ubud features a solo exhibition by Rie Mandala titled “Wandering Ripples”, through September 27. From her native country of Japan, across Asia, to Canada and to the US, Rie has lived, travelled and encountered a mix of different cultures along the way. This collection of 20 works of art offers a glimpse into her journeys. Alila Ubud, (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com

UBUD: GREENER
The Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) is promoting Ubud as a green destination with a series of charitable and environmental activities and hosting a seminar. The UHA is a non-profit, nongovernment organization comprised primarily of hoteliers and allied members who actively service the hospitality industry. The UHA will visit the temple of Pura Gunung Rawung in the village of Taro to pray and to plant 300 white cempaka trees this month, as well as promote the spirit of ecological responsibility in Ubud by participating once again in the annual ‘Clean Up the World Weekend’. On September 8, the UHA will be hosting a seminar with key speakers marketing specialist Rhenald Kasali and spiritual master Anand Krishna, as well as other prominent representatives. Anand Krishna will talk about “Spiritual Tourism – the spirit of tourism”, at the Convention House at the Royal Pita Maha Resort. This will be followed by a cocktail party to celebrate UHA’s anniversary. Ubud Hotels Association c/o Pita Maha A Tjampuhan Resort & Spa www.ubudhotelsassociation.com
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SEE&SEEN

DOUBLE DIVA TAKES
Hard Rock Centerstage featured a concert by the phenomenal Indonesian singer Anggun, who entertained her Indonesian fans on the Anggun Roadshow 2009 of five cities, Bali, Surabaya, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Medan. Anggun began her “step” in Sand Island, and collaborated with Indonesian singer, Dewi Sandra. In March, America Online (AOL) Survey chose her as number four of the world’s diva singers after Kyle Minoque, Vanessa Paradis, and Rihanna. www.anggunroadshow2009.com

OUT TO SEA!
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas together with Kuta Beach Sea Turtles Conservation held ‘Protect the Sea Turtles’ in late July, releasing 90 baby sea turtles on the beach in front of the hotel. This event is to be held regularly during the “turtle season” to help create awareness. Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta, (0361) 751-067 www.discoverykartikaplaza.com

THAI HIGH
Black Canyon Coffee Indonesia received the Thailand Best Friend (TBF) Award 2009 from the Thai Prime Minister in early August. The award was given as a token of Thailand’s appreciation towards its business partners outside of Thailand. 52 companies from all over the world received awards in various categories. Black Canyon Coffee Indonesia received its award in the restaurant category. Black Canyon is expanding with what is anticipated to be the world’s largest outlet in Denpasar.

CANGGU CHAMPION
Mustofa Jeksen from Kuta Beach won his first ever Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Champion Tour contest at the 6-Star Oakley Pro 2009 in Canggu Beach on August 21. He surfed against fellow Kuta Beach local Dedy Santoso in a 25 minute final. Jeksen has a well-deserved reputation as one of the best up-and-coming young surfers in Bali at 20 years of age, having a great repertoire of radical maneuvers. Placing equal third were Garut Widiarta and Devis Ratif, both also from Kuta. The day was the culmination of four days of competition at Canggu Beach, the west coast of Baliís premier surfing arena. The next event on the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship tour will be the Rote Open 2009, from September 16-19 on the island of Rote in East Indonesia. ISC Office, (0361) 768-293; www.isctour.com

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HOTELHIGHLIGHTS
HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: sales@mentarisanur.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com

HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Pioneering three in one concept, hotel, suites and villas located in the heart of hippest Seminyak Area. Famous area for clubs, boutiques and restaurants. Walking distance to beaches. With perfect concept “Naturally Elegant” post Perfect palace for honeymooners, party goers and fashionista. FACILITIES: 96 hotel rooms, 60 spacious suites, 7 villas with private pool in each, function and meeting rooms, Three Main swimming pools, Atma Spa, SABEEN Healthy Restaurant, Gym, Library, Tirta Pool bar, butler services, Limousine service, LCD TV’s, Broadband Internet connection. Honeymoon package, Meeting package, Bed and breakfast package and Photo-shoot wedding Package. LOCATION: 15 Minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport, walking distance to beaches, Shopping area, and Boutiques. CONTACTS: The Haven Hotel, Jl. Raya Seminyak 500 – Bali, ph : 0361-738001 The Haven Suites & Villas, Gg. Raja, Jalan Double Six – Seminyak - Bali, Ph: 0361-738001 Fax : 0361-738002 Sales : 0361-738008 E-mail: Info@thehavenbali.com; Website: www.thehavenbali.com

HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: rock@hardrockhotels.net; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net

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SEE&SEEN
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FOURTH FESTIVITY
The fourth Sanur Village Festival (SVF) took place from August 12 – 16 at the Mertasari Beach in Sanur. This year’s festival was themed “Marine Life”, with various activities and events highlighted in the five day fun-filled event. An opening ceremony was held with Balinese artists presenting a special contemporary musical performance as well as an arts and cultural parade marking the start of the festival. www.gotosanur.com

LEGENDS LIVE
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa welcomed five maestros of Balinese dance at the opening night of the fourth annual Nikko Bali Cultural Appreciation Nights, held at the Kupu Kupu Amphitheatre on August 5. The five maestros were Ni Jero Puspawati, Ni Jero Gadung, Gusti Ayu Raka Rasmi, Ni Ketut Arini and Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana. Each of them performed a dance that amazed guests. At the conclusion of the event, the management of the Nikko Bali Resort and Spa honored these maestros and the audience also had the chance to take photos on stage. Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com

REIMAGINED
The Patra Bali Resort & Villas held a re-launch event on August 14, inviting travel agents, media, and the hospitality industry of Bali to attend. It was hosted by new GM Hakim Affan and his team. The resort started a major renovation in March of 2002 and now further introduces its villas. The Patra Bali Resorts & Villas, (0361) 764 250

CLEAN-UP
The Beach Clean-up Campaign 2009 was part of the Sanur Village Festival 2009, with hotels, restaurants, travel agents, dive shops, art shops and other businesses in the Sanur area showing their enthusiasm and support. Members of the Sanur tourism industry volunteered to coordinate this campaign in three different zones throughout the Sanur area.

BRIAN ‘N HIS BRAIN
Dominic Brian, a 12-year-old boy from Kuta, accomplished his “Guinness World Records” attempt at Bali Zoo in mid August after successfully displaying his ability to memorize 76 random numbers in 60 seconds. Brian previously broke the Indonesia Record Musuem’s (MURI) record of memorizing 52 cards in 100 seconds and 100 numbers in 12 minutes. Pictured is his father Gidion Hindarthio and Guinness World Records Asia representative Alex Iskandar Liew. www.slcbali.com

KITE FLYIN’
The Bali Hyatt held its 12th Annual Kite Competition on July 29. All departments challenged each other with their modern and colorful traditional kite creations and their kite flying abilities. Respective kite artists from each department took turns making kites at the Temple Garden for 9 days with a “Green” theme. The event commenced with a parade from the Telaga Naga Restaurant. Bali Hyatt Sanur, (0361) 281234 www.bali.resort.hyatt.com

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SEE&SEEN

RECHARGE RESTART...
Bali & Beyond and ENVY presented Recharge Night, a hospitality industry and marketing party on August 7 at the newly launched beachfront dining venue of the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna on Jalan Wana Segara in Tuban. The party was themed ‘Recharge Your Vices’ tying in with the venue’s name. Entertainment highlights included Capoeira performances by world famous Senzala, Djembe drummers by United Percussion and DJ performances by DJ Aan (ENVY), and a ‘Vice Hunt’. The team at Bali & Beyond Magazine would like to thank all those who attended the fun night. Further thanks go to Stephane Varoquier, General Manager of Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, and Billy Latief, Tasya Auliya and the whole team of ENVY for hosting the party with such a nice venue, good food and attractive entertainment - and also to the main sponsors Gigi Van Kuijk and Derry Hasibuan of Hatten Wines, and Andy of Bali Moon Liqueurs. Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jalan Wana Segara 33, Tuban (0361) 755-577 www.bali.holidayinn.com
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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends

SPLENDID CHINESE MEAL AT BALI DYNASTY‘S GOLDEN LOTUS RESTAURANT A Splendid Chinese meal at Bali Dynasty‘s Golden Lotus Restaurant, with fully loaded “Lazy Susan’s” carrying a veritable feast to the 90 members and guests comfortably seated at the large circular tables in the newly redecorated Golden Lotus Restaurant. The wonderful menu included hot and cold appetizers, braised minced beef soup “Sihu” style with coriander, stir fried prawn with Vietnamese sauce, braised beef Saigon style with black pepper and spring onion, deep fried crispy chicken with Szechuan sauce, braised vegetables with oyster sauce, special fried rice and chilled fresh mango pudding. WOW! UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 160 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are: October 2 - The Samaya - Seminyak November 6 - Hu’u Bar/Nutmegs Restaurant - Petitenget December 12 - Annual Festive Season Ball - Grand Hyatt - Nusa Dua January 8 - Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort - Nusa Dua February 5 - Sanur Paradise Plaza - Sanur ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization in the world with over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are tourism industry management and professionals in fields of accommodation, transportation, tours, travel, marine and cruise tourism, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas and travel media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth For information on joining Skal and participation lunches and events contact Gede Juwena at the Skal Bali secretariat on (0361) 784 0212 or at skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

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Jl. Dou

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Nusa Dua
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M

Fish Market

Jl. Pu


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Jl. Le

Buddhist Temple

Jl. Pa

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Art Market

Medical Center

N
Jl. Melasti

gian

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Jl. R aya Panta

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Istana Kuta Galleria Harris Hotel

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Hard Rock Cafe
Jl. Pantai Kuta

Jl. Ma

Jl. R

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Discovery Shopping Mall

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Jl.

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Kuta Center
Jl. Raya Tu

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Kuta Sea View

Ground Zero Monument


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Public Telecomunication

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Kuta Square

Bali Galleria

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Grand Mirage

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Jl. Han g Tuah

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Sanur Paradise
Jl. Pratama Raya

Melia Benoa Art Market

Italy Consulate

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Jl. Danau Buyan

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Jl. Segara Ayu
Jl. Sindu

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Medical Center

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Jl. Tegeh Agung

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Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
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Sindu Beach
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Village Market

Jl.

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Sweden & Finland Consulate

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Jl. Srikandi

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Pasifika Museum

Jl. Danau Tamblingan

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The St. Regis

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CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

ACCOMMODATION
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3 villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete, shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian, Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510 E-mail: info@dianagrouphotel.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com

during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s / quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day. BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766; Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com

ACTION & ATTRACTION
BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the beauty of walking among hundreds of beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia, Ginger and other interesting plants. A peaceful, natural and safe haven close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011; www.baliorchidgarden.com; E-mail: info@baliorchidgarden.com BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive. Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields, crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views

INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 / info@newspaperdirect-bali.com

TOURS & TRAVEL
ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo & Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750 971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56, Email: info@adventureindonesia.com www.adventureindonesia.com

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INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369 ■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011 Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id ■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: dtkonsbali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: cristofoli@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: yudhara@astinatravel.com ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: purwa@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: mimpi@mimpi.com ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com ■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: rabik@indo.net.id ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: segara1@denpasar.wasantara.net.id ■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: swisscon@telkom.net ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

HOSPITAL
■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BIMC HOSPITAL: Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the KutaSanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL: (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: marketing@kasihibu.co.id www.kasihibu.co.id

TELECOMMUNICATIONS
■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.

TOURIST INFORMATION
■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.

MUSEUMS
■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA): Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.

CONSULATES
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: tamarin@dps.centrin.net.id ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur

HEALTH & MEDICAL
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue

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