Triangle Charm Pattern Notes

Use your favorite method of making half-square triangles (HSTs)

in this quilt: Cut individual triangles with the template provided, or
cut squares the size noted below. Then, either cut the squares corner to corner into triangles, or pair the squares together and use the
Quick HST method detailed below.
If you are not using the template, begin with squares measuring
3 3/8". If you prefer to make HST units slightly oversized and then
trim to the exact size required using the Bloc_Loc or similar tool,
cut squares measuring 3".
To make the quilt, cut the number of squares indicated in the
chart below. (Each square produces two triangles.) If you are using
the template, cut twice the number of squares noted.
Fabric
#
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

# per
Block
1
2
3
3
2
1
10
10

8
7

Cut # Squares
Small
Large
8
32
16
64
24
96
24
96
16
64
8
32
80
320
80
320

Finished block measures 10"

Make the HST units using your favorite method and sew
them together as shown in the block image. Make 16 blocks
for the small quilt and 64 blocks for the large quilt.
Half-Square Triangles: Quick Method
Using this method is fast and allows you to avoid working
with bias edges.
Cut the number of square patches required. (Each square
will yield two HSTs.) Mark a diagonal line on each background patch. If you do not use a -inch foot on your
sewing machine, mark a sewing line -inch on both sides of the center line.
Pin the marked background patches to their partner
fabrics, right sides together and with the background
patch on top. Sew along both marked sewing lines. If you
did not mark the sewing lines, stitch both to the right and
left of the center diagonal line, aligning your -inch foot
with the line. Cut carefully along the diagonal line and press.
Designed by Jinny Beyer
Pattern Written by Elaine Kelly
2013, Jinny Beyer

Referring to the small or large quilt image, sew the

blocks together in rows, rotating the blocks. Then
sew the rows together.
Make & Add the Borders
Separate four narrow and four wide stripes in the
border print fabric by cutting carefully through the
middle of the solid area between the two stripes.
This solid area is the seam allowance.
The middle border fabric is provided in a long
length so the sections do not need to be pieced.
For the small quilt, cut four pieces measuring 1"
x length of fabric. For the large quilt, cut four pieces measuring 3" x length of fabric.
Follow the instructions for Adding Multiple Borders and for framing a square quilt in Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way. For a video demonstration of this technique, visit
www.jinnybeyer.com/videotips.

Quilt finishes 53" x 53"

Fabric Requirements
This quilt was designed to use a
Web Special Bundle of six fabrics.
Actual amounts required of Fabrics 1-6 will vary but will not be
more than the amount noted.
Middle border yardage is based
on strips cut the width of fabric
and then pieced.
Small Quilt
-Yard Bundle (6 fabrics)
7/8-yard each of Fabrics 7 & 8
2 yards of border print
fabric
1/3 yard for middle border
yard for binding
Large Quilt
1-Yard Bundle (6 fabrics)
3 yards each of Fabrics 7 & 8
3 yards of border print
fabric
1 yard for middle border
1 yard for binding

Quilt finishes 97" x 97"

Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way

Jinny Beyers border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which
coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners.
In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance is
provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across the
fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus an
additional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners.
For a video demonstration of this bordering technique, visit
www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips
Framing a Square Quilt
1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering
a motif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor
differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias
edges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a
measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt
from ruffling at the edges.)
2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of the
sides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print. Then carefully
move the triangle until the angled side touches the point where the top edge of
the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram 1.) Mark,
then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the quilt,
the seam allowance is already included.)

Diagram 1: Mark the miter.

3. Carefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of the
strip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edge
of the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that the
design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motif
from the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at the
edges. Cut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the triangle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.)
4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, mak- Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first.
ing sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.
5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. To
find the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the
short edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do the
same for each corner of your quilt.
6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to
the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each
side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning the border
to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider
than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, starting and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from the inside
dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design elements on Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borders
will have designs that flow around the corners.
both pieces.

2010, Jinny Beyer

Framing a Rectangular Quilt

With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs will
automatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.
1. First, follow steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for the
short ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of the quilt
must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to
match, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exact
center of the quilt.
2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the border
print stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miter to
match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay the newly
cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning one mitered
edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilt on the
strip as in Diagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut it off "
beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut one more
piece identical to it.
You also need two strips that
are the exact mirror images of
these pieces. Using one of the
g
strips you just cut, flip it over and lay it on a
Diagram 4: Find and
mark the center of the quilt
strip of border print, matching the fabric
on the border strip.
design exactly. (The two strips will be right
sides together.) Cut the miter and straight edges to
match the top piece. Using the newly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece.
3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these borders
to the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to a
rectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be a
seam at the center of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center will
mirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt.
Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangular
quilts have center seams.

Applying Multiple Borders

Jinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, she will
frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating fabric as
a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe from the border
print.
Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, when the
middle border is a fabric that doesnt have to be matched at the corners, she
recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the second border to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border in the steps
above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after the first two borders have been completed and sewn to the quilt.
Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typically
sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. This allows her to
carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed on the border print
fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding.
Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way

Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders

2010, Jinny Beyer