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Fuel Heater is shortening out internally and temporarily disabling the ECM, GP a

nd LP circuits in the process so hard start, no start


2 wire 3 prong connector by the filter housing (f
uel heater)
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Check your ECM1 and ECMB fuses too, fact check them all..
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If you discover the Fuel Heater is faulty, you can unplug it temporarily BUT if
your exposed to freezing temps on a regular basis, I would reccommend it be repl
aced asap.
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Attached several diagnostic aids..
NOTE about the Fuel Pump Relay Cirrcuit Diagnosis. On '94 models, the DLC's "F
uel Pump Test Terminal" is "G," not "F" as indicated (for '95 OBD1 models)
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IIRC, rockauto[dot]com has fully assembled ready to drop in OEM FFM for @ $140.0
0, far less than what the stealerships want for the fuel heater alone....
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ANYTHING that disrupts the Optical Sensors relaxing day at the diesel spa wil
l alert the PCM. If the PCM remotely feels threatened or remotely suspects catas
trphic damage is imminent, the PCM shuts EVERYTHING down just as if a ghost turn
ed off the ignition..
When the PCM hits the panic button, entire system shuts down and appears dead
because nothings communicating. PCM's posum play can last as long as 20 seconds
while it reboots and gathers its senses.
If the condition still exist when the PCM reboots, it can immediately default
and/or just hit the panic button again and again or until the condition no long
er exist. Grind the starter (crank the engine) all you like, dont matter.
Engine will not start until the PCM says so. Often this condition is ROUTINELY
misdiagnosed as faulty IP, defective PCM or failing PMD.
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Dont skip the "Important Preliminary Checks" and dont simply go through the moti
ons, be excruciatingly THOROUGH!!
https://youtu.be/CK-sd49yRiY
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I will just say thaT I have had to replace the ignition switches in all of my ve
hicles except the 1994's I've had.
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I got to the point where if the problem somewhat indicated the ignition switch a
nd there was 200,000 or so miles on the vehicle I would just change the ignition
switch - with a GM or AC Delco.
I did do a fair amount of diagnostics to rule out the usual suspects before chan
ging the switch.

Every time I changed the ignition switch, it cured my problem. I've changed 5 ig
nition switches. All at around 200,000 miles.
I would say age and miles driven at the hit of the key would have more to do wit
h things than the actual miles on the vehicle
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https://youtu.be/EdhvndJsj18?t=3
6.5L Cold Start
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Depending on where you are checking the glow plug system, things will go to grou
nd. If you check a glow plug wire and any of the glow plugs are plugged in the w
ire will show it is grounded.
Glow plugs are grounded and all the wire get tied together at the controller
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extending the glow time with a 9 G or 11G glow can be bad karma, extend glow for
AC-60G or Bosh durathem only
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6.5 Diesel glow plug, glow plug relay and fuseable link test

https://youtu.be/uQwaTWrymwo?t=1
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lift pump test. How do you accomplish this highly scientific experiment you ask? V
ery simple. Pop the hood - you re half way there. Find on the front top of the eng
ine the thermostat housing. You should see a little T-handle valve standing prou
d there in front of you. (If you have a van, you ll have a schrader valve down dee
p behind the oil fill) That T-valve is calling your name saying turn me. Pay atten
tion, cause there s a hose on the end of the T-valve. That hose should have diesel
fuel come out of it when the engine is idling and you open the T-valve. When you
open the T-valve and the engine is idling, and no fuel comes out, you ll hear you
r engine cough, sputter, and die within 30 seconds. If it doesn t cough, sputter a
nd die with the T-valve open and no fuel coming out, something is plugged up in
your fuel system between the fuel filter cannister and the t-valve, perhaps even
inside the fuel filter cannister.
If the engine does die, it has emptied the fuel cannister and run out of fuel, s
o you will need to close the T-valve, then troubleshoot and repair the lift pump
system, as follows in the text below.
Now, if you get a continuous stream of fuel out the hose, then close the T-valve
and open the plastic air-bleed valve on the top of the metal filter cap - if fu
el spurts out there, then congratulations! You are the proud owner of a working
lift pump. Not everyone is as blessed as you are at this moment. If you're not,
keep reading.
To those not as blessed, pickup reading here. You must determine why you have no

fuel supply coming to your injection pump. There are two main culprits to the d
emise of a lift pump. Either it s out to lunch, or it s in the morgue. See, one mean
s it still might work, the other means it s dead. How do you tell? Check to see if
it has power.
First, find the lift pump under the truck. With the engine idling along, pull th
e plug for the lift pump. You can either use a test light, or a meter to see if
you have voltage at the pins. Make sure you get a good connection, otherwise you
may condemn the wrong thing. Sometimes it is difficult to get a probe to meet u
p with the pins inside the plug, so make double sure you ve got it.
If you have voltage, *chances* are you have a dead lift pump. Not always, but co
uld be a dead lift pump. You may have voltage present under a "no load" conditio
n. This means that voltage may be present when the lift pump is not attached to
the circuit, but once the lift pump is connected, the load exceeds the amount of
power the circuit can provide because the OPS contacts are creating a high resi
stance.
Now, if you don t have voltage, you ll have to verify upstream from there why there
is no voltage present. What is upstream? The infamous OPS (Oil Pressure Switch),
or fuse.