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# CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION
1.1 Issue Background
If a row of the wave moving
towards thecoast, the surge will change shape caused by the process
of refraction and diffraction waves, superficiality, reflection, and the wave broke.
Creep wave speed depends on the depth of water in the wave propagates.
When the vines fast wave decreases with depth, the wavelength is
also reduced in linear.
Quick random variation of the wave happens along the line the tops of waves that
move by forming an angle against the line of the depths of the sea, as part of a
wave in the sea in moving more quickly than
the more shallow sea. These variations cause the peak wave banked and tried
to parallel to the contour lines.
1.2 Problem Identification
1.3 Purpose Identification

CHAPTER II
DISCUSSION
2.1 Refraction Wave
Refraction occurs due to the influence of the change of the depth of the sea. In
areas where the water depth is larger than half the wavelength, i.e. in the deep
ocean,the wave propagates without affected the sea floor. But at sea the transition
and superficial, the seabed affecting the wave. In this area, when reviewed a line of
peak wave, part of the wave peaks are in the more shallow water will spread with the
speed of which is smaller than the portion in the deeper water. As a result the line
of peaks of the waves will be banked and tried to run parallel to contour lines the sea
floor. The line orthogonal wave, i.e. a line perpendicular to the line of peaks of the
waves and show the direction of the penjalaran wave, will also be banked, and
trying to go perpendicular to the contour lines.
Refraction and the superficiality of the wave will be able to determine
the height ofa wave in a place based on the characteristics of waves.

## Refraction has considerableinfluence against the wave height and direction as

well as the distribution of energy waves along the coast.
Change the direction of a wave due to the refraction produces a convergence
or divergence (spreading) energy waves and waves
of energy affect happens somewhere in the beach area.
2.2 Refraction Theory

## Figure 2.1 Refraction Wave

Figure 2.1 shows an example of refraction of waves in coastal areas that
have a basic contour line of the sea and the coastline is irregular. A row
of waves in the deep ocean has a wavelength of peak waves and
lines L0 parallel moving towards the coast. The line orthogonal waves in the direction
of turning towards the perpendicular line contours. At location 1, the
line orthogonal wave menguncup'm in location 2 line orthogonal waves spread.
Because of the energy between the two orthogonal lines is constant along the
path, means energy per unit wave width on site 1 is larger than on site 2 (the distance
between the orthogonal lines on site 1 is smaller than in the deep ocean are in location
2 the greater distance). When will planned a port in the coastal areas, then the location
of the 2 is better than 1, because the location of the building a plannedbuilding will
hold a smaller wave energy.
The assumption used in the study of refraction is as follows:
a. Energy waves between two orthogonal is constant
b. the direction perpendicular to the wave of penjalaran at the height of waves in the
direction of the orthogonal

c. Quickly creep waves that have a certain period somewhere just depends on
the depth at the venue
d. Change the basic topography is continuing
e. Wave has a peak period long, constant, small amplitude, and monokhromatik
f. influence of currents, winds, and a reflection of the changing topography of the sea
floor is ignored
A quick wave of creep equation is:
C2 =

gL
2 d
tanh
2
L

## In the deep ocean, the equation becomes:

Co 2=

gL
2

The equation shows that Co does not depend on the depth of the deep sea,
so not subjected to wave refraction. At sea the transition and the sea is shallow, the
influence of refraction the greater.
In the shallow sea equation becomes:

C= gd

g H 2 L
E=

## Wave power is:

P=

nE
T

Seen two orthogonal line passing from the deep sea to the beach and considered there
were no waves of energy coming out of the path. Power contained between two