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hi C Johnson, glad you are enjoying the MGS blog and find it useful for your own project

plans. i will try to expand on your questions from your post:
1) the second grenade launcher is omitted on the later MGS which features the skate
mounted MG with gun shield as the shield would hit the launcher mount. i have seen
some pics where the second launcher is missing even with the older axial MG mount. the
mounting base is still there on the turret but the launcher framework is left off.
2) the wire conduit that is made from L angle metal runs wiring to the additional lights
that are on the front slat portion. additional lights were required to help drivers at night
as they found the standard lights going through the slats insufficient.
this photo is for discussion purposes only

the above pic shows the headlights and L angle to hopefully clarify this as the lifting
hooks are used to mount the square supports for the angled forward slat panels so the
original headlights could not be moved to the attachment lift points.
the guard rails for the headlights are omitted as the slat armour protects the headlight
cluster.
3) the arc slats on the sides where the turret would otherwise hit is broken up into 2
portions on the left side. i will be working on this section after i finish the back slat
portions as this is off the chart in the "complicated" spectrograph. hopefully once finished
it will clarify this area.
later MGS' appear to have an additional "lip" around the 2 left hatch edges. perhaps after
production began they found that these hatches distorted during explosions and needed
additional material on the perimeter to keep them from buckling. for whatever reason,
the AFV Club should be updated to have these added.
4) the rear slat is simple yet complicated. each element is fairly simple but getting
everything in the correct proportion and placement will be complicated. the rear section
opens in a "double gate style" with drop in pins to keep it locked. the lower slat is
mounted directly to the doors. i will take some clear pics of this when completed.
5) the slat armour has four orange hazard lights mounted and i chose to make them out
of bits of round styrene and plasticard of various thicknesses. they are so small i plan to
paint them to look orange/clear rather than fuss with clear styrene which is harder and
more brittle to shape. i will be adding all the wiring that runs to them as well.

hope this helps and thanks Mr J for the great discussion on this project. slat armour progress continues: . i don't believe my camera can show these small pieces well when they are all white.i think once the model is painted all these tiny details will be clearer. cheers. this is the kind of thing that makes this forum fun for me. bd. thanks Sean and Walter for the kind words of encouragement.

a little stop to test fit the turret .

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got to say i'm still having lots of fun slowly putting this one together though. happy Canada Day to my fellow canuck modelers. bd hello everyone.. hope the pics convey some of the process for those looking to represent their M1128 in field service. i've returned to my MGS slat armour project and have made some progress: . cheers.i am beginning to understand why i haven't seen any MGS' with slat armour in 1/35th scale. this is a bit on the elaborate side of scratchbuilding madness..

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bd. cheers. bd i guess they want .next will be the arc pieces for the side panels. hope everyone is having a great modeling weekend. i agree that having anti-skid texture on the correct panels as part of the box model would be the ultimate situation and one that was provided in AFV Club's Wiesel kit. which was a nice bonus and perfectly done to scale. why can't this be something on AFV Club's MGS??? to leave something for the modeler to challenge themselves with LOL. thanks everyone for the great discussion and wonderful models showing some exceptional skills at producing anti-skid. this opens a lot of options for my project and i would like to express how much all the input makes this forum a big part of my enjoyment from our hobby. cheers.

bd Heh Bruce ! If you have got the regular "grey" Tamiya putty just delute it with some turpentine so you kann spray it like paint under high pressure. that is absolutely the best anti-skid texture i have ever seen !!! what a great technique. Go close with the first layer to build up some "strength" then delute it some more and spray it vericaly at a distance of around 20cm for the final finish. here is a pic that Hans-Hermann Bühling has kindly shared with everyone at Primeportal's website and i link here for discussion purposes only: thanks for the input.Christopher. Gino has an excellent point about getting a better adhesion if i build everything . i will try this tip out on some spare parts and weigh the pros and cons of whether i will try just using paint. It's quick and very realistic. you really nailed the scale down perfectly. you have some other projects that are really cool but there isn't more of the one you posted here. cheers. it is very helpful in figuring out the way i should address the painting. took a look at your photos and was hoping to see more of this particular model.

bd. this worked really well for the scale. cheers. thanks for all the help. . the one method that i tested that worked really well was to soften the model's plastic surface with Testors liquid cement and then take a toothbrush or brass wired brush and lightly texture the surface. the plan is to create a different surface texture in the paint process rather than actually go into adding textured paint or pouring on baking soda. but in the end i think i may try a faux paint technique to see how this pans out.before paint goes on. i plan on doing the anti-skid texturing a bit different then i have seen most people go about it for strykers. my research shows that the texture is very subtle and is not really as "bumpy" as you might see in 1/35th scale.