What we need to prepare before soldering PCB?

Obiviously, we need to get the necessary equipment before soldering PCB.

1. Use a soldering iron with the appropriate heat control. For soldering
electrical components into printed circuit boards, the best soldering irons are
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) safe, temperature-controlled, high-power irons.
These will let you solder for hours, and are good for complex amateur radio
projects. For simple kits, an inexpensive pencil iron will do just fine.
 Use a fixed power soldering iron, 25W for small jobs, and 100W for
larger jobs with heavy cabling.
 If possible, variable temperature irons are available, which will make for
the safest treatment of the boards. The tip temperature can be controlled
to suit the size of the job.
2. Use solder wire of an appropriate alloy. The most common solder alloy
used in electronics is 60% tin and 40% lead, sometimes notated as 60/40. This
alloy is recommended if you are new to soldering, though it is somewhat
hazardous, requiring proper ventilation, breathing protection, or a soldering
iron with a vacuum attachment.
 Various lead-free alloys are becoming popular recently. These require
higher soldering temperatures and do not "wet" as well as Tin-Lead alloys.
However they are safer and can be more effective. 96.5 % tin to 3.5% silver
is the most successful and will produce a joint with less electrical resistance
than any tin-lead alloy.

 Both lead and lead-free formulations are available online at places like
solderdirect.com and in your local Radioshack or Home Depot store.
3. Try to get flux-cored wire if possible. Flux is an additive in solder that
facilitates the soldering process by removing and preventing oxidation and by
improving the wetting characteristics of the liquid solder. There are different
types of flux cores available for solder wire.
 Rosin is most commonly used by hobbyists. After soldering, it leaves a
brown, sticky residue which is non-corrosive and non-conductive, but can
be cleaned if desired with isopropyl alcohol. There are different grades of
Rosin flux, the most commonly used is "RMA" (Rosin Mildly Activated).
 No-clean flux leaves a clear residue after soldering, which is
non-corrosive and non-conductive. This flux is designed to be left on the
solder joint and surrounding areas.
 Water-soluble flux usually has a higher activity that leaves a residue
which must be cleaned with water. The residue is corrosive and may also
damage the board or components if not cleaned correctly after use.
4. Get the necessary board and components. Mostly, electrical soldering
deals with "through-hole" components, which are pressed into printed circuit
boards (PCBs). Through-hole components have leads (wires or tabs) that pass
through a hole in the board and are soldered to the pad of metal plating
around the hole. The hole may be "plated through" or not.

 Soldering other electrical items such as wires or lugs, have slightly
different techniques, but the general principles of operating the solder and
iron are the same.

5. Get a clamp to hold the components. Electrical components are usually
quite small, and you'll need tongs, needle-nosed pliers, or tweezers to hold
them in place while you operate the soldering iron and negotiate the solder. It
can be a balancing act.
 Some kind of clamp or stand is usually best to hold the board in place
while you solder the components.

After these necessary equipments getting ready, the next step is to solder the
Components. I will update in my next blog.

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