This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
TOTAL COST: About $80 COST OF 35mm LENS FOR ADAPTER: AS LOW AS $50 (I spent $500 on a nice new one.) Adapter is made from:
• • • •
Female 2" PVC connector (ACE hardware brand)- About $2 About 2" piece of 2" ABS pipe - less than $2 72mm Cokin P ring - $8 e-bay 72mm +10 ASIAN brand Macro (Not very good, but cheap) $20 e-bay
To improve image (prevents the prism effects that split the colors) use a nicer macro such as Century Optics (Costs around $100, available only as high as a +7, 58mm as far as I know, so that complicates things, and veers from my simple design.)
72mm +4 BOWER Macro (A three pack with a 1, a 2, and the 4 is about $40 on e-bay. Quite a GOOD macro!) NIKON F lens mount for CANNON camera adapter (I think about $20 on e-bay. Should have been less.) This part can obviously be substituted for another lens mount, depending on what lens you want to use. The tutorials and threads that I read all used Cannon lenses, and I wasn't too impressed. I chose to go with Nikon because... um... I just... like them better...? Focus Screen - You can use actual still-photo focus screens, as long as they have NO markings on them, such as the Nikon D screen ($40 if you can find one on e-bay without any scratches), or the Beattie Intenscreen). You can also use various things that are not actually focus screens such as micro-wax squished between two layers of glass, (WAY hard to do without getting bubbles or anything) or opaque plastic from an Office Max Folder(which is what I used in this video I posted) and also Scotch Tape. The scotch tape is grainy, and you must crop the image to 16:9 in post production because of how (not) wide the tape is, BUT it is CHEAP and you can also easily replace it if it becomes blemished with a fingerprint, or dust, etc. If you can find tape that is wider than 1" then that would solve that problem.
Last but not least, the 35mm Lens itself. I invested in a brand new Nikkor 85mm f1.8D AF that ran me $500. Like I said before, all of the tutorials that I read all used Cannon lenses that cost about $50 used on ebay, but I didn't like the results so much. Out of all of the lenses that I tried (in this focal range), this one produced the brightest, sharpest, clearest, and most vivid image. The important thing is that the iris opens REAAAAAALLY wide. I mean, seriously, the iris on this baby, when fully open, is like 1.5" across. I tried some telephoto lenses that worked pretty well too... but I didn't have $2000 that I wanted to cough up for them. (OUCH!)
TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT!!! Do NOT order a lens from e-bay until you have tried that exact model for yourself. Some lenses do NOT work with the adapter because the iris is too small. If the iris is too small, then vignette occurs. The lenses that I have tried that have had NO vignette had irises that opened WIDER than about 1.2 inches across. ALSO when you TEST the lens to see if it works, MAKE SURE to open the iris as WIDE AS IT WILL GO.
The quality of the image you can capture will be effected, first of all, by the quality of lens at the very end. If you skimp and get a crappy cheap lens that is scratched and foggy, and makes funny noises when you focus it, then you are screwed right from the start. I recommend that you shop for a lens that doesn't bust your budget, but also will enhance the overall image. DON'T SKIMP ON THE LENS! So, here is how the adapter is set up, from the DVX100 out to the still 35mm at the end of the adapter: BASIC: +4--> +10--> Cokin P Ring--> Threaded end of PCV Adapter--> (Focus screen inside PVC Adapter)--> 2" ABS pipe--> Nikkon F Lens adapter--> Nikkon Lens
DETAILED: The +4 Macro is screwed into the DVX. The +10 goes right after that. Then the Cokin P ring is screwed into that. The Cokin P ring is attached (in my case, hot glued) to the female PVC adapter on the THREADED end. Hot gluing the adapter allows you to easily test it out, and take it apart again to modify it as necessary. If you wish, you may eventually use a permanent epoxy such as liquid nails... But I'm leaving mine hot-glued. (The PVC adapter that I used was PERFECT because the P ring slid on to the outside of it about 1 millimeter, but then is stopped by these little nubs on the adapter that are supposed to give you some grip when you are tightening down the PVC connection.) The exposed end of the PVC connector is the end that will fit any 2" pipe. It has a ridge thing in the middle of the connector that both divides the threaded half from the non threaded half, but also stops the 2" pipe from sliding any further that it is supposed to. This is where you place your Focus Screen. If you are using plastic, just cut it to fit snugly in place. I have not used an actual still-photo focus screen such as the Nikon D, so I don't have any real insight into positioning that, since I wouldn't recommend cutting THAT. Some people claim to have successfully made their own Ground Glass, but I have no experience or insight to that, so you are on your own with that. After the focus screen, insert the ABS pipe into the end. The actual length of pipe that you use will be determined by the focal length of whatever lens you use with the adapter. The design actually lets you adjust the focal length to some extent, which is something NO other adapter that I have seen has. My pipe is about 2 inches long... maybe an inch and 3 quarters... I didn't exactly measure precisely. I knew approximately how long it needed to be, and just cut it with a hack saw. You adjust the focal length by moving the pipe in or out of the PVC connector. DO NOT GET THIS PIECE SO TIGHT THAT YOU CAN'T GET IT BACK OUT!!! YOU WILL CONSTANTLY NEED TO CLEAN/CHANGE/ADJUST THE FOCUS SCREEN, AND YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THIS PIECE TO DO SO!
Okay then. On the end of the ABS pipe, I attached (hot glued) the Nikon F lens adapter. I had to use my pocket knife to whittle out the inside of the pipe a little so that the Nikon adapter would fit perfectly flat, nice and snug. That’s it. That is all. You simply attach your lens to the adapter, zoom in and focus your DVX on the sweet spot of the FOCUS SCREEN (if you are not zoomed in enough, you will have a vignette (dark corners) but if you zoom in too much, you won't be able to focus on the screen, even with the macros), adjust the focal length (Focus the 35mm lens to INFINITY, and move the pipe in/out CAREFULY and SLOWLY until objects that are far away (a block or two away) are in focus), check for dust/scratches/fingerprints on the focus screen, and you are ready to shoot!
Yes... in the above picture it is kinda sagging a little... haha, I had to tweak it a bit afterwards.
Notice the Focus Screen inside the adapter; It is a square piece of opaque plastic (actually two layers) that I cut out of a clear plastic folder from Office Max (I had to go through about a dozen folders to find an area with no major blemishes) that is taped to a piece of glass that is the same size. The purpose of the glass was to keep the thin plastic layers held flat, however, keeping dust out from in between the layers was near impossible. Also, I would get the dang layers put together, and then find out that there was an inner layer that had a fingerprint, or a tiny littly spec of dust, and it would have to be disassembled again... and again... so basically... just use something that is ONE LAYERED! It will save you stress. It sure doesn't look too pretty, but it gets the job done! I painted the first version of the adapter, but had MAJOR problems because the paint I used had a weird chemical reaction with the PVC, and never hardened beyond a rubbery sticky state. It caused the ABS pipe to stick in the adapter, and it took several painful hours of trying to pry the dang thing out to get to salvage my focus screen
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.