STOP - READ!

PREPARING THE BIXBY MaxFire STOVE FOR BURNING
Basic Guidelines:
1) 2) The stove does not react quickly to any changes made to it. When making any adjustments to the Trim Pot Knobs, only turn them 1 line/number at a time. Each line/number represents a 6% increase or decrease change. After making any adjustments….DO NOT MAKE ANY OTHER ADJUSTMENTS FOR AT LEAST 20 MINUTES! When first setting up a MaxFire for a proper burn, start out with the Trim Pot Knobs set at the a. Factory Presets, which are: Exhaust Fan: +/-0 Feed Rate: +/-0 This is a starting reference point for the stove but not necessarily the point at which the stove will perform at its best. (Start by leaving the exhaust fan knob on 0 and adjusting the feed rate). After about 10-15 minutes into the startup of the stove, you should watch the flame for characteristics of the burn. Watch the flame for 10 minute periods. During this time note the burn characteristics as explained in the “Trim Pot Adjustment.” Characteristics of a Lean Burn are: a) Hard Clinkers (cookie, hockey puck, hamburger, biscuit, wafer for example.) b) An oscillating flame – slowly graduating from a high to a low to a high to a low flame over a period of 3 to 8 minutes. (High flame decreasing to a low flame (5 min.) going to a high flame (5 min.) etc. c) A build up in only one side of the Burn Pot d) The flame seemingly coming out one side of the Burn Pot only.

3)

4)

5)

6)

NOTE: Colder air contains more oxygen per cubic foot of air than warmer air. A cold snap or sudden change in the weather can cause the stove to run Lean and you may have to increase the Feed Rate during this time. NOTE: The outside air temperature, the corn moisture content, the corn type and the conditions which it was grown will all be factors in how the stove burns. 7) Charasteristics of a Rich Burn are: a) An even build up in the Burn Pot. b) A darker, lazier flame. c) Excessive soot build up on the glass door.

NOTE: Fuel build up on one side of the burn pot is a Lean Burn. Fuel build up evenly in the burn pot is a Rich Burn.

How to adjust the Trim Pot Knobs
Both the Exhaust Fan Trim Pot knob and the Feed Rate Trim Pot knob accomplish the same thing BUT they work inverse to each other. Thus, if both trim pot knobs are turned in the same direction, they cancel each other's effect on the flame, therefore it is best and our recommendation to work with just the Feed Rate Trim Pot knob initially. We suggest writing down the changes you make. This will remind you of what you have done last and its' effect on the flame. A good burning flame will be yellowish in color and very lively. Rich Burning Flame: • • • • • If the flame is consistent and the ash is slowly building up evenly in the bottom of the fire pot, turn the feed rate knob down. The flame will be orange in color - the darker the orange, the richer the flame. It is best to adjust feed rate, one notch (6%) down at a time, to maintain flame control. This adds fuel less often thus "leaning" the flame out. Moving the exhaust fan knob in the positive direction (adding more air) will have a similar effect, however we recommend making adjustments using the Feed Rate Trim Pot knob for maximum performance. If this is the case, the ash may be more of a black color instead of grey.

Lean Burning Flame: • If the flame varies from a very small flame to a larger than normal flame, then the feed rate is too low or lean. • There may also be an ash buildup on ONE side of the burn pot. • The stove may go out at times. When this happens it may also give a #2 or a #2 & #3 error indication. • The problem is that the stove is burning the available fuel at a rate faster than it is being delivered, burning down to a small flame and then as more fuel is delivered, the fire becomes larger than normal. To fix this, turn the feed rate trim pot knob up one notch (6%) positive at a time until the stove becomes consistent.

It is most important to remember to wait 15 to 20 minutes between adjustments to allow the stove to stabilize at the new setting.

Trouble Shooting the Flame

You must first determine if the flame is rich or lean to aid in trouble shooting the problem. Besides trim pot adjustments, other things to look for are: Feed wheel has lifted off the back plate do to a buildup of fines or other material that may get under the feed wheel. This will cause a rich flame. To remove the feed wheel, remove the four screws, springs and spacers and clean the area under the feed wheel. Set the feed wheel tension if necessary. See “115_Setting the Feeder Wheel Tension.” Check the upper burn plate gasket for air leaks. This is best done with an ash buildup on the upper burn plate. If you can see the upper burn plate any where around the perimeter, an air leak could be possible. Air will blow the ash away from the perimeter of the upper burn plate thus showing you the position of an air leak. This will cause a rich burn. Check the firebox door for a tight fit. Adjust the pawl on the door handle as necessary for a tight fit. Inspect the gasket around the door damage or any signs of leakage. It could be possible that there is an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak will cause the burn to be rich. To eliminate that the venting is the cause, pull the ask drawer out 5 or 6 inches. Allow the stove to run this way for 3 or 4 minutes. This will allow air from inside the house to be the combustion air for the flame. Observe the flame during this time. The height of the flame is not important. If the flame becomes brighter and livelier, you most likely have venting problems. If there is no change in the flame, the venting system is most likely O.K. An exhaust leak comes from any exhaust leaking from the center 3 inch vent pipe into the larger 5 inch fresh combustion air vent pipe. Exhaust may also be drawn back into the stove at the termination cap do to the wind or the deterioration of the termination cap. Make sure the stove is clean by checking the following items: The exhaust manifold at the bottom of the convection tubes. This area is about 3-1/2 inches deep at the bottom and behind the convection tubes. If it fills up it will cause the flame to run rich. There are 109 holes in the lower paddle. These must be open to affect a good flame. The convection tube cover plates must be installed properly. Correct if necessary. The bottom of the fuel deflector should be centered on the burn pot.

The Ash Dump Process
The ash dump of the Maxfire and UBB is done according to the amount of fuel that it is fed. At the time of an ash dump, there should be about 1/2" to 3/4" of burning embers in the upper burn pot. This is required to maintain a flame during and after an ash dump. If you are still getting too much fuel in the pot at this time, you could be a little LEAN or RICH. There is an adjustment for the ash dump frequency on the UBB, but not on the 115. Each time fuel is added to the burn pot, a pre-set number is added to an internal counter on the Mother Board. When a preset number is reached, the stove goes into the ash dump mode sequence.

No matter the heat setting, the ash dump works off of the FEED RATE.
The Higher the Feed Rate...the sooner the ash dump. The Lower the Feed Rate...the later the ash dump (The Ash Dump frequency can be changed on the UBB.)
BURN POT AT BEGINNING OF THE ASH DUMP SEQUENCE

3-1/4 to 3" 3-3/4" 5"

1/2" to 3/4" normal depth

Typical ash height of a RICH burn at the beginning of the Ash Dump Sequence

Typical ash height of a LEAN burn at the beginning of the Ash Dump Sequence

Typical ash height of a NORMAL burn at the beginning of the Ash Dump Sequence

Figure 1 - Approximate Ash Height

Cleaning the 110 Exhaust Manifold

The area behind the tubes goes back about 4" Be sure to get all the way to the rear.

To effectively clean the Bixby 110 MaxFire to allow maximum burn efficiency, the exhaust manifold BEHIND the lower portion of the convection tubes must be kept clean and open. If the exhaust manifold becomes clogged, the stove will not perform properly or even may not start at all. To clean this area, cut a 12-14 inch long piece of a heavy coat hanger. On one end bend a handle. About ½ to ¾ inch from the other end, bend a 90º hook. This hook can than be used to get BEHIND the convection tubes to scrape and to loosen any buildup in the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold runs the total length right to left. On the right side is where the exhaust enters the exhaust pipe and then into the exhaust fan cleanout box. After scraping this area clean, it then can be blown clear using the exhaust clean out. (Instructions are included if there is no cleanout plug installed.) After the cleaning is completed, adjust the stove using the included trim pot knob adjustment sheet. It is quite important to keep the exhaust manifold area clean as the performance of the stove relies on the total area of the exhaust manifold for top performance.

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MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING PROCEDURES
The Bixby Room Heater has been designed to reduce the frequency of cleaning. However, if the simple maintenance tasks detailed below are not performed - the Room Heater will not run properly and will lead to reduced heating efficiency, increased operational problems and potential harm to its components. Reading and following the maintenance instructions will keep the Room Heater running at optimal efficiency and will help to reduce problems over the long run. Many problems can be solved by simply cleaning the Room Heater. This should be the first step in troubleshooting if the Room Heater is not working properly. NOTE: CAUTION: Keep the area around the Room Heater clean and free of dust and debris. Always be sure to allow the Bixby Room Heater to cool and then unplug before any maintenance procedures are performed.

COMPONENTS REQUIRING PERIODIC CLEANING FIRE POT/BURNER
This device is powered by an electric motor. The automatic operation serves to clear the ash/deposits from the Fire Pot. The sidewalls of the fire pot should be brushed monthly with the included brush, to remove deposits. If needed the pot may be removed and soaked in a bucket of water. To remove the burner, remove the fuel deflector, remove the top burner plate (handle in front of the burner), remove the two clips holding the burner in place and lift out the burner. Good combustion is dependent on delivering the right amount of air to the burn pot. Keeping the pot clean and the holes clear will keep the air flowing to the fuel and reduce fuel related problems.
Fire pot Fuel Deflector

ASH DRAWER
This container should be emptied as needed. With the Bixby Room Heater simply undo the latches, pull the Ash Drawer out and empty its contents. CAUTION: NOTE: Drawer and contents may be hot. Return drawer promptly (less than 20 minutes) after emptying. While the drawer is open, the Room Heater will not dump the ashes and could postpone a cycle leading to build up in the burner pot.
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Figure 27

110_Maintenance and Adjusting Procedures

The ash drawer should be checked / emptied after burning approximately 100-200 lbs. (1 - 2 full hoppers) of fuel. Actual frequency will vary with usage, check every few days. Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tightfitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have been thoroughly cooled.

Ash Drawer

Figure 28 HEAT EXCHANGER TUBES
Fly ash and other deposits will accumulate on the Heat Exchanger Tubes over time and will act to insulate the tubes, reducing their ability to heat the convection air and thus the home or building. There are two banks of Heat Exchanger Tubes, both of which are equipped with a cleaning lever. The levers are located on each side of the fuel chute on the back of the fire box. To clean the tubes, pull the lever straight up approximately 4’’ (10 cm). Move the lever up and down a couple of times. This should be done on a weekly basis. Once a month, to assure optimum heating efficiency, remove the heat exchanger covers by removing the screw holding the center cover in place, then remove the center cover and the two outside covers (note the position and orientation of the outside covers). Brush down loose ash and vacuum out the fire box. Replace the right and left covers with the tabs facing out. Replace the center cover over the levers and anchor with the screw. See Figure 29. Cleaning levers

Figure 29

See Cleaning the Exhaust Manifold

SOOT AND FLY-ASH FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
The products of combustion will contain small particles of fly ash. The fly ash will collect in the exhaust venting system and restrict the flow of the flue gases. Incomplete combustion, such as occurs during start-up, shutdown or incorrect operation of the heater will lead to soot formation which will collect in the exhaust venting system. Inspect the exhaust venting system at least yearly, cleaning as required. Also, inspect any outlet to maintain a clear and unobstructed exhaust/intake port. CAUTION: Use only an approved ash vacuum for this purpose.

Tab

Figure 30

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EXHAUST FAN
CAUTION: Unplug the Room Heater from its power source before cleaning the impeller.

To access this component, remove fasteners, open Right Side Panel, and remove inspection covers. Using a brush and a vacuum, clean the impeller. Inspect gasket. If it is torn, replace gasket before placing unit in service. This cleaning should be performed once a year.

Fan Cover

Figure 31 CLEANING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD The Exhaust Manifold should be cleared on a yearly basis to ensure proper air flow in the Room Heater. 1. Turn off the Room Heater and allow to completely cool (minimum of 2 hours). 2. Remove the heat exchanger cover plates (see previous page for instructions). 3. Close the firebox door and latch. 4. Remove the left side panel on the Room Heater. 5. Locate the 1/8 inch NPT plug on the left side of the manifold. The plug will be behind the air duct. Disconnect one end of the air duct if necessary. See Figure 32. 6. Remove the plug. 7. Using low pressure air (<15 psi / 100 kPa), blow the accumilated soot towards the exhaust fan housing. 8. Replace the plug and reconnect the air duct. 9. Follow the instructions for cleaning out the exhaust fan (previous page). Figure 32

Plug

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FUEL HOPPER The Fuel Hopper should be cleaned out on a regular basis (monthly) to remove fines and ensure proper fuel delivery. 1. 2. 3. Remove the hopper cover and set aside. Empty the hopper of as much fuel as possible by either running the Room Heater, shop vac, or by hand. Vacuum the base of the feeder wheel to remove small particles and other debris.
Clean this area

CLEANING THE GLASS Depending on the fuel used and the amount of use, the glass window will need to be cleaned. The glass can be cleaned using any available glass cleaner. Do not use abrasive cleaners to clean the glass. For tough cleaning use cleaners designed for ceramic Room Heater tops. CAUTION: Before cleaning the glass, allow the Room Heater to cool (minimum 2 hrs). Do not spray window cleaner on the glass if hot.

Figure 33

If the glass needs to be cleaned more than every 4 to 5 bags of fuel (two full hoppers), contact your dealer to verify Room Heater operation. NOTE: Tighten door latch after the first month of operation to maintain door seal.

Feeder tube

CLEANING THE FEEDER TUBE The Fuel Feeder Tube should be cleaned out on a regular basis (monthly) to ensure proper fuel delivery. 1. 2. 3. Allow Room Heater to cool, minimum 2 hrs. Open the Glass Door. Using a screw driver or small brush, scrape the inside of the feeder tube.

If the tube needs to be cleaned more than every 4 to 5 bags of fuel (two full hoppers), clean the fuel hopper (above).

Figure 34
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CLEANING THE LOWER PADDLE The Lower Paddle needs to be cleaned once a month in order to operate efficiently. The ash dumping process causes the holes in the lower paddle to eventually clog with ash. 1. 2. Make sure the Room Heater is off and cool. On the control panel, push the “ON” and then the “OFF” button immediately to clear the burn pot and to place the lower paddle in the correct position for cleaning. Unplug the Room Heater. Open the glass door or ash drawer to gain access to the burn pot. Looking into the burn pot, insert a 1/8” drill bit, toothpick, or similar diameter tool into the holes, clearing each blocked hole.
Air Compressor

Burn Pot

Holes

3. 4. 5.

Figure 35

CLEANING THE AIR FILTER FOR THE IGNITION AIR COMPRESSOR The air filter for the air compressor will only need to be cleaned if the Room Heater is installed in a dusty environment. Inspect filter annually. If it appears dirty, remove and clean with a mild detergent and water. Once dry, replace.

Air Filter

Figure 36

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MaxFire Trouble Shooting Guide
***UNPLUG THE STOVE***

- BEFORE ***DOING ANY WORK IN OR ON THE STOVE***
This guide is provided only as a suggested manner of troubling shooting and is not all inclusive.
This guide is to be used only per the qualified abilities of the consumer "At their own risk"! If in doubt of the required skills needed for any of the following tasks, the consumer should contact their Bixby Dealer. It is to be noted that there is unprotected 120 volt alternating current wiring at certain locations within the stove. EXTREME CAUTION should be taken anytime working inside the stove.

Burn Drive (Ash Dump Motor)
Burn Drive Motor Assembly. A. Burn drive motor brake: Does it release or NOT set? B. Is the Burn drive motor switch adjusted properly? C. Check wire connections: They should be firmly, securely attached. Burn Drive Motor does not run: A. Is the # 4 or #5 light blinking? B. Check all wire connections for tightness. C. Ensure the Paddles are seated securely on the linkage rod pins and not binding or off the linkage. a) If not, contact your Bixby Dealer Burn Pot Assembly: A. Is the Upper Burn Plate Gasket intact and in good condition? B. Are the Ash Drawer Gasket and Latches in good condition? C. Fuel deflector - check that 2 bolts are in place, tight and centered on pot AND both Upper Burn Plates are tight together. Assemble Igniters / Air Pump A. Igniter failure: a) Are the igniters plugged in? b) Are the fuses on the igniter board good? c) Test igniter with ohms meter. B. Procedure for using the ohms meter on igniters - Checking resistance. a) Set the meter on the LOWEST OHMS SCALE for all resistance tests. b) Unplug the igniter (J5 or J7) from the Igniter board. c) Place the probes of the meter into the plug of the igniter. d) A good igniter should have a reading of aprox. 28 ohms. e) A bad igniter will have a reading of less than 20 ohms or greater than 35 ohms. 1) If the reading is not 28 ohms, contact your Bixby Dealer C. Air pump does not run: a) Check that wire connections are tight. b) Check that the ground wire is hooked up. c) Ensure the Air Pump is plugged into "J14."

Exhaust and Convection Fans:
Exhaust Fan Assembly. A. Procedure for checking resistance of exhaust fan plug at main board: a) Unplug the Exhaust fan from the Mother board (J13). b) Set the meter on the LOWEST OHMS SCALE for all resistance tests. c) Place the probes of the meter into the plug of the Exhaust Fan. d) Place the black and red probes onto the plug where wires are connected. e) A reading of 5-10 ohms is to be expected - a bad connection will have a reading of 1 or 0. B. Failure of exhaust fan sensor: a) If failure occurs, contact your Bixby Dealer C. Exhaust Fan pulses: a) Check wires in plug. They should be white then black (top to bottom). b) Check that wire connections are tight. c) Check resistance of exhaust fan wires at the plug - a reading of 5-10 ohms is to be expected. d) Check that the ground wire is hooked up. e) Check that the alignment of the exhaust fan sensor is centered on the blades of the exhaust fan motor fan blades. 1. Should any of these not meet above standards, then contact your Bixby Dealer Convection Fan: A. If convection fan does not run: a) Check the Thermocouple wire at the Mother board for connection (J18). b) Make sure that the wire colors, on the plug end, are red then yellow (left to right) on the Mother board.

c) Wires on the plug of the convection fan may have a bad connection, or the connection to the capacitor may be bad. 1) Contact your Bixby Dealer

Feed System:
Feed system and Hopper: A. Feeder Wheel Cover: a) The Feeder Wheel cover protects the Feeder Wheel from the weight of the corn in the hopper and should be used at all times. b) When the feeder wheel access plate is installed, the plate prevents smoke from entering the room, should a flue block occur or stove shut down occur. Feeder Wheel Assembly: A. Feeder Wheel does not move or run: a) Open Hopper lid, remove Feeder Wheel cover, clear jam and restart Stove. b) Check Feeder Wheel guard- Is it installed correctly and properly? c) Check for continuity at the snap disk plug (there should be continuity under normal conditions when snap disc is cool). 1) If there is a question, contact your Bixby Dealer

Touch pad operation and indicating Lights:
A. Four switches a) ON: b) OFF: c) UP: d) DOWN: Starts the stove. Also used to reset the stove. Shuts the stove down. Used to increase the setting of the heat level. Used to decrease the setting of the heat level.

B. Eight LED’s Indicates the heat level setting. DOES NOT indicate the heat level in which the stove is currently running at (if the stove was recently turned up it may not be to the indicated level yet or if the stove is using a built in program with preset levels (start-up, shut down or ash dump). A display with blinking LED’s indicates trouble codes which can be used to diagnosis problems (see your owner’s manual).

Remember, if all else fails: READ THE MANUAL If the problem with the stove has not been resolved with the help of the above -

YOUR FIRST CONTACT SHOULD BE MADE WITH YOUR BIXBY DEALER!

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WING REFERENCES

14

15 2

13

SMALL AMOUNT

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110_Burner Assembly