You are on page 1of 282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold
TOPICS
EVENTS
FOOD IN POP CULTURE

LATEST STORIES
Jonathan Gold's 60 Korean Dishes
Every Angeleno Should Know
4 years ago | Korean Cuisine

SHOPPING
BOOKS
LISTS
LAST NIGHT
FILM AND TV
TRAVEL
A CONSIDERABLE TOWN
HOLIDAYS

See Also: A Google map for all 60 of the


Korean dishes Jonathan Gold says every
Angeleno should know, read "5
Koreatown Restaurants Open 24 Hours:
Hangover Soup," learn about "5
Koreatown Beer Joints: Hite
Requirement," or just look at more of
Ann...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Baco Mercat


4 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Bco Mercat is Josef Centeno's new bar
down in the Old Bank district, a dim, close
space just south of Pete's. It has been
getting some attention lately for the
crunchy, paper-thin Catalan pizza call...

Golden Deli: A New Restaurant, in the


Style of Chipotle
4 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Golden Deli has been the default


Vietnamese noodleshop in the San
Gabriel Valley for a couple of generations
now, a cramped, eternally crowded
storefront where the pho, and especially
the fried springrolls called cha gio, have
always been worth th...

Where to Find Breakfast Tacos in


L.A.?
4 years ago | Breakfast

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: As a former resident of


South Texas, I often miss the unique
Texas-style breakfast tacos so ubiquitous
there. (I like mine with machacado.) I'm
sure you know that these are not the

1/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

sure you know that these are not the


same as breakfast burritos, and are
dened well in...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Shanghai No.


1 Seafood Village
4 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Let's get this out of the way: Shanghai No.
1 Seafood Village is the most ambitious
Chinese restaurant to open in Los Angeles
in a decade maybe ever, if you don't
count Hong Kongstyle seafo...

Where Does a Restaurant Critic Go


When He's Not on the Clock?
4 years ago | Burritos

I am often asked where I eat when I am


not on the clock, when the agenda
includes neither distant anticucherias nor
Korean silkworm soup. And the answer I
have not quite given, although I probably
end up there once a week, is the Pasadena
takeout ...

Rocio Camacho's Latest: Mole de los


Dioses
4 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Mole -- we've all had mole. Los Angeles


may be the best place to eat mole outside
Oaxaca and maybe the D.F., a bastion of
both Oaxacan and Poblano styles of the
ultracomplex sauce. If you can't nd the
famous seven moles of Oaxaca here,
you're no...

What's With All the Beer Pubs?


4 years ago | Beer

Dear Mr. Gold: What's with all these beer


pubs? It's very 1991 Denver. --Eric
Beteille, via Facebook...

Bouillabaisse: Meant for the Poor,


Now for the Rich
5 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: It's that time of year, cold


and dark early, which means there is
nothing more inviting than that wave of
heat and spice when you enter a great
Italian trattoria. I'm hunting for the best
bouillabaisse in town, in a joint that is as...

2/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

bouillabaisse in town, in a joint that is as...

Jonathan Gold's Angeli Caffe Eulogy


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The chilly Wednesday evening before
Angeli Caffe closed for good, you could
grab a bar seat at Pizzeria Mozza without
waiting, and there were only two or three
dudes in line at Pink's hot dog stand. If
yo...

Aroma Cafe: Even If You Can't


Pronounce Pljeskavica, You Can
Point
5 years ago

Can you say pljeskavica? I kind of can't,


which may be why I don't visit this
Bosnian cafe as often as I would like to -which is kind of a lot, considering they
also have wonderful spinach bureks;
enormous Slav-tinged meze platters of
salami, ch...

Sushi Kimagure Ike: Pasadena's Best


Sushi Bar Ever?
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

For years, Sushi Ike was the best sushi bar


in Hollywood, the place you went when
you wanted to escape from the shy
neologisms of Geisha House and KatsuYa for something close to classic, Edostyle sushi. Ike-san was never a ashy
sushi chef, b...

Where in L.A. is Tarte Flambe?


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: A friend of mine lives near


the French eatery La Poubelle and I live
close to Cafe Stella. We alternate. But
while La Poubelle serves atbread, Stella
does not. And I've been thinking: Why is
tarte ambe so hard to nd in...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Westfield


Culver City Food Court
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The loneliest evening I ever spent in New
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

3/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Orleans was on my rst visit to the city, at


the glistening food court into which the
great soul-food cook Buster Holmes had
been transplanted, half a century on...

Milo and Olive: 3rd Wave Pizza +


Empire-building in Santa Monica
5 years ago | Pizza

Those Rustic Canyon guys? It's an empire


they're building in Santa Monica, from ice
cream, to wine, to breakfast -- and now
pizza, at this new, perpetually crowded
small-plates restaurant whose dining
room probably is smaller than some of its
cust...

Jewish Iraqi Food: Yes, But in Los


Angeles?
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My parents are coming to


visit soon and I was hoping to do them
proud by nding some authentic Iraqi
cuisine akin to what my Baghdad-born
father grew up eating just outside of Tel
Aviv. His mother has stuffed us many a
visit with t...

Carousel: The Joy of Mezze, With or


Without Belly Dancing
5 years ago | Middle Eastern Cuisine

The Lebanese-Armenian restaurant


Carousel has been holding down its
position in Little Armenia longer than
almost anyone can remember, as it's a
reliable place for kebab platters, the usual
salads, and an exemplary version of
muhammara, a rough, s...

In Search of Curly Fries, Like They


Have in Missouri
5 years ago | Food Trucks

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a hankering for


some grease. I would like it to come in the
form of a "brick" of Susie-Q french fries. I
don't want any of these wimpy curly fries
people talk about, looking like lost potato
eyelashes on the plate. None of th...

Jonathan Gold's 10 Best Dishes of


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

4/282

7/6/2016

Jonathan Gold's 10 Best Dishes of


2011

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Roast marrowbones with prawn sambal
In a year when Los Angeles cooking came
together with a coherence it probably
hasn't seen since the mid-1980s, this dish
at Spice Table seemed to express
everything imp...

Crispy Pork Gang & Grill: In Thai


Town, You Gotta Have a Gimmick
5 years ago | Thai Cuisine

Well, yes, Crispy Pork Gang. A restaurant.


A Thai restaurant. In that Thai Town strip
mall that somebody should have thought
of a catchy name for by now, but anyway,
the one with Ganda, Ruen Pair and Red
Corner Asia in it, and a valet who will sta...

The World in Dumplings: Or, Not


Living By XLB Alone
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'd like to do a tour of the


world's cuisines through dumplings. Xiao
long bao may be my favorite food on
Earth, but one does not live by XLB alone.
So far I've got momo, gyoza, shui jiao,
samosa and piroshki on the list, even
thoug...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Dal Rae


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The Dal Rae at Christmas freaking hell,
the Dal Rae at Christmas, a pulsing, meatscented wonderland of dark wood and
smoked mirrors and shrimp cocktails as
big as spaniel pups, Old-Fashioneds pul...

Night of the Broken Rice at Com Tam


Thuan Kieu
5 years ago | Vietnamese Cuisine

Com tam is pure Vietnamese soul food,


jagged shards of rice broken in the
threshing process, repurposed as lunch -com tam with a bit of scallion oil is
among the cheapest and most delicious
things you could eat. As with such former
poverty stapl...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

5/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

poverty stapl...

Churros for Hanukkah: Oil and


Pluralism
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: It's Hanukkah, and I want


to have a party, but I live in a small
apartment and hate frying things because
the smell never goes away. I thought I
would have a churros and spiked cider
party instead. Where is the best place to
get chu...

The Return of El Gallo Grill


5 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

When foodists talk about the deceased


restaurants of East Los Angeles, you will
always hear mention of Gallo's Grill,
which for a time gave the neighborhood a
glimpse at what a Mexican steakhouse
might be: warm, thick corn tortillas patted
to orde...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Coni'Seafood


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Do you ever glance at Chowhound?
Because once you get past the dim sum
speculation, burger arguments and
bickering about Taiwanese beef noodle
soup, the site seems almost customdesigned to follow the uns...

The Vol. 94: McSweetbreads + The


Invasion of the Small Plates
5 years ago

The invasion of the small plates is not


nished, oh no. It is marching down our
streets and avenues, invading our towns
and villages, leaving behind nothing in its
wake but duck-slider crumbs, remnants
of Fiscalini bandaged cheddar and sticky
dro...

Chinese Dinner for Christmas


5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: My husband and I,


originally from Connecticut, are fairly
new to L.A., and have had a hard time
nding good Chinese food. This is our
rst year as a married couple and we're

6/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

rst year as a married couple and we're


looking for a nice restaurant in which to
restart our tr...

Nick's Cafe: An Old-fashioned Diner


That's Newly Hip ... Sort Of
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

When poet Suzanne Lummis asked me


about "noir" restaurants for a literary
series she was curating, the rst place
that came to mind was Nick's Cafe, a
battered diner I hadn't been to since the
old railyard it faced out onto had been
upgraded to t...

Jonathan Gold Reviews a Beefsteak


at Vibiana
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


If a deranged chef held a sh knife to my
throat and demanded that I name the
greatest chunk of food writing ever put
into print, I'm pretty sure that after a bit
of wafing about Calvin Trillin and Col...

Where To Go For L.A.'s Version Of NYC


Halal Carts
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: New York City has the


legendary halal carts at 53rd Street and
Sixth Avenue. Please tell me Los Angeles
has something similar. --Joseph Saranglo,
via Facebook...

Bco Mercat: An Exam in Culinary


Poststructuralism
5 years ago

Some new small-plates restaurants are


content to serve you hamburgers and
fries. Others bring in inuences from
Singapore, Copenhagen or Tokyo. But the
menu at Bco Mercat, the new restaurant
from Joseph Centeno of Lazy Ox, reads
almost like...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Tsujita L.A.


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.


Last year was L.A.'s year of ramen, if
you're keeping score, the year when the
utility noodle bowl became a fetish object,
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

7/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

utility noodle bowl became a fetish object,


and even casual eaters began to go on
about tonkotsu broth and avor bombs,
kotte...

Short Order: The Late Amy


Pressman's Burger Obsession Stays
Alive
5 years ago | Burgers

If you've been around the back of the


Farmers Market lately, you've probably
noticed an odd glass appendage, and the
funk of charred meat, and a waxing
throng whose average age seems at least
20 years younger than the one next door
at Du-Par's, a ...

The Most Authentic Borscht in L.A.


5 years ago | Russian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: The most authentic


borscht in L.A. -- other than at Grandma's
kitchen? --Devin Saez, via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold Reviews MB Post


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.


May we get this out of the way? Because
whatever impression you take away from
MB Post, whether you are there for the
killer mojitos, the giant french fries or the
waitresses who look as if they just got o...

Maximiliano's: Congratulations,
Highland Park
5 years ago | Italian Cuisine

Congratulations, Highland Park! Because


you've nally transcended a soulcrushing abundance of taqueros, great
bars and really good regional Mexican
restaurants with a slightly befuddling
celebrity-chef-owned trattoria of your
very own. The conce...

Navigating a Cantonese Dinner Menu


at King Hua
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

When we non-Chinese visit one of the


San Gabriel Valley's handful of grand
Cantonese restaurants, such as King Hua
in Alhambra, we usually are there for

8/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

in Alhambra, we usually are there for


morning dim sum, with its accessible,
crowd-pleasing array of dumplings and
snacks, or for a f...

Authentic Tamales, Fit to Serve Mom


5 years ago | Holidays

Dear Mr. Gold: My mom is coming to my


house for Christmas for the rst time ever
and I volunteered to cook, decorate, the
whole nine yards. She is Mexican and is
traditional on holidays, which means
every year she makes tamales. I never
learned o...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Le Comptoir


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.


In the demimonde of post-aughts Los
Angeles, where the value of a meal out
may lie less in the dent it leaves on your
Visa card than in the discomfort involved
in obtaining a table, there are three levels
...

Neptune's Net: When You're in a Badass Seafood Mood


5 years ago | Seafood

When the weather gets cool, the surf gets


big and the trafc on PCH dies down,
Malibu once again belongs to us, free of
the tourist hordes in their rented Aveos.
And so we crank down the top, crank up
the Suicidal Tendencies and bomb up the
coast...

Late Night in Little Tokyo


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was wondering if you had


any ideas for a place to eat after 10 p.m. in
Little Tokyo or downtown. We're meeting
a group of people for dinner after a
movie, and we wanted to try something
outside of the normal
sushi/ramen/izakaya st...

Cooks County: A Perfect First-date


Restaurant?
5 years ago

At the end of 2011, the year that the


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

9/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

At the end of 2011, the year that the


gastropub nally wrestled formal dining
into a bathtub to drown, we pretty much
know what a good, new restaurant is
going to look like. There will be an open
kitchen, and noise, and a very decent
selection of...

Red Medicine: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Red Medicine, whose co-owner


unmasked and ejected the L.A. Times
restaurant critic in his establishment's
earliest weeks, is still more discussed in
gossip columns than it is in food circles,
and a lot of people who couldn't pick
Wolfgang Pu...

Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

At Peter Luger, the ancient steakhouse in Brooklyn, the waiters used


to be famous for telling customers that they'd be glad to let them see
a menu, and they'd be back in a minute to see how they wanted their
steak. Newport Seafood is a little like...

Rivera: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

John Sedlar is a chef whose rsum could


occupy most of a novel; a mind spinning
off in a hundred directions at once,
leaving trails to follow, as well as a body
of work to be admired. There are at least
four separate menus at Rivera...

Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Most people know central Vietnamese cooking strictly through the


noodle soup bun bo Hue. But in the Kanh Hoa region, the
emblematic dish is nem nuong, a kind of bouncy pork meatball
impaled on a skewer, grilled over an open ame and served smoky,...

Musso & Frank Grill: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If you walk into Musso expecting to have the same kind of steak you
had last week at Morton's, you probably have the wrong idea.
Because before the restaurant became a martini-fueled Hollywood
clubhouse, the place where Faulkner blew out his liver...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

10/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Mozza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Mozza has been sprawling so relentlessly that some of us have taken


to calling it the Mozza Industrial Complex. And every time you poke
your head into Nancy Silverton's outpost of the Batali-Bastianich
empire, there is new ground to surveil &mdash...

Mother Dough: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Are you the type of person who is offended when a pizzeria closes on
the rare days when its dough refuses to behave? Then Mother Dough
probably isn't for you. Bez Compani nurtures his re-spitting oven
with the ferocity of Hogwarts gamekeeper Hag...

Rustic Canyon: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Like so many other restaurants on the


Westside, the food at the wine bar Rustic
Canyon owes less to the standard bistro
playbook than it does to the kind of
cooking that French guys don't consider
cooking at all: basically a compendium of
wh...

Mo-Chica: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Mo-Chica is, at the moment, everybody's favorite example of the


redemptive qualities of Los Angeles: a simple lunch counter, opened
in the nonprot Mercado La Paloma south of downtown, which
propelled Peruvian-Japanese cooking into the rst rank...

Salt's Cure: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Are you looking for the restaurant of the future? Because I have the
feeling it is going to look a lot like Salt's Cure, which works the DIY
groove with uncanny nesse. If you want to know what's for dinner,
you click the daily Twitter link, whic...

Mezze: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Mezze, in the former Sona space up on La Cienega, is probably the


swankest of the new upscale parlors specializing in meze, Middle
Eastern small plates, with the former Zen austerity of the dining
room softened by designer Waldo Fernandez, the usu...

Melisse: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

11/282

7/6/2016

Melisse: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

When people start talking about the death of ne dining in Los


Angeles, by which they mean the lack of caviar, pheasant consomm
and trufe-stuffed chicken for two, the exception that is often noted,
and the place where Westsiders come to...

Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Among all the kitsch and incense of Fairfax Avenue's Little Ethiopia,
Meals by Genet stands out as an Ethiopian bistro, which is to say a
homey, soft-lit dining room that looks at least as French as it does
African. The menu is short: crisp-skinne...

LudoBites: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

A pop-up, you think. How ... 2008. Because here we are again,
walking through an industrial district with a bottle of Arbois in each
hand, a reservation that was harder to get than a spot in the
freshman class at Brown, and no actual idea of what ...

Sapp Coffee Shop: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Thai Town's boat-noodle wars show no signs of abating, and there


may be no end of Thai cafs in the neighborhood claiming to serve
the best, the most authentic version, but the homely virtues of Sapp
become more apparent by the year. Sapp's...

Mantee: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

There is something about Mantee that can occasionally inspire a


reasonable man to run screaming into the street: an overdecorated
stufness; a plague of houseplants; an overfondness for the Gipsy
Kings. It feels like being trapped for an hour wit...

Mayura: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Restaurants specializing in the cooking of Kerala are not thick on the


ground. And even if you are familiar with Southern Indian cooking, a
lot of the food here may be new to you: saucer-shaped rice-our
pancakes called appam; a complexly spiced ...

Marouch: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

When the food press gets to talking about the Middle Eastern food in
America, Los Angeles rarely enters the conversation alongside
Dearborn, New York or even Anaheim. But the concentration of
Lebanese-Armenian restaurants in Hollywood and Glendale...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

12/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Lukshon: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

You can be forgiven for surmising that


something's up at Lukshon, right?
Because you are at a Sang Yoon
restaurant, nobody has tried to tackle you
on the way to your seat, and you are
drinking Singapore Slings or an oddball
Canary Islands wine cal...

Lucques: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

It's slightly embarrassing, but after all these years and all these
meals, it is still hard to describe exactly what denes a Suzanne Goin
dish, typically but not always a three-comma construction fashioned
from farmers market produce, perhaps gi...

Lou: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

"I want you to taste this," says Lou Amdur, handing you a glass of
sour, cloudy liquid that smells like yesterday's bread dough.
Although you pride yourself on your palate, and you will later have a
conversation about an obscure Loire grape that c...

Le Comptoir: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Le Comptoir is every chef's dream restaurant: a few counter seats, a


single menu each night, and the intimacy of a sushi bar although it
is a pop-up, huddled around the open kitchen of the sprawling
restaurant Tiara. An armful of fresh her...

Little Dom's: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Dark wood, deep booths and Sinatra;


Manhattans and "dago red"; spaghetti and
meatballs your instincts tell you South
Jersey, but chef Brandon Boudet grew up
in New Orleans, and Little Dom's seems
patterned after the neighborhood joints in
...

Lazy Ox Canteen: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Like many of the best restaurants of the moment, Lazy Ox is tinged


with aggression, leaping like ames from the open kitchen, in this
case served up by Joseph Centeno, a young, Texas-born chef with a
sweet smile, a working command of Mediterranea...

13/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

sweet smile, a working command of Mediterranea...

Larkin's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

For a place known for great banana pudding and happy Sunday
brunch, this Eagle Rock restaurant is oddly controversial, distrusted
by people expecting cheap soul food and snobs looking for haute
cuisine, by big fellas looking for Roscoe's-size port...

Langer's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

By this point, it is a matter of conventional wisdom: Langer's serves


the best pastrami sandwich in America. No matter how many
doubting New Yorkers you drag here, no matter how many
Chowhound throwdowns between Langer's and Katz's there may be,
t...

La Casita Mexicana: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

When you sit down at La Casita, the spiritual home of Mexican


cooking in Los Angeles, you are brought a basket of warm chips
drizzled with jet-black mole poblano, a chile-laced red pepian and a
green pepian made from crushed pumpkin seeds: the den...

Kobawoo: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

After several years and many gallons of soju devoted to the subject, I
have determined that my favorite Korean dish is almost certainly
bossam, a combination plate of steamed pork belly, raw oysters,
special kimchi, raw garlic and a salty condimen...

Kiriko: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Kiriko may still be the great, undiscovered sushi bar in Los Angeles,
and Ken Namba's traditional yet creative sashimi surpasses most of
what is sold at three times the price. Namba smokes fresh Copper
River salmon over smoldering cherry wood, sli...

Sea Harbour: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

I am reasonably sure that when Jackie Chan dines at Sea Harbour, he


is whisked to a private room, plied with Bordeaux and fed the
supreme luxuries of the Hong Kong billionaire's table: that one, live
sh in the tank your waiter will never tell yo...

Jitlada: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

We know a woman who has made it her life's project to work

14/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

We know a woman who has made it her life's project to work


through the typewritten addendum at the back of Jitlada's menu, 208
Southern Thai dishes almost mythical in their obscurity and their
erce chile heat. We wish her well: We can think of n...

Jar: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Suzanne Tracht's snazzy steakhouse reads like a blast from the Rat
Pack past: Hollywood Regency plus the Birth of the Cool, chey riffs
on the strip steak and the porterhouse, the hash brown and the
french fry that occasionally incorporate every ...

Ink.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

I'm not sure what you do when you get up in the morning. I tend to
check the online reservation page at Michael Voltaggio's restaurant
Ink., in case it lets me know that a four-top might be available at 9:45
p.m. on a Tuesday 23 days from now. I'm...

Hungry Cat: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Does the appeal of the Hollywood ArcLight lie in its enormous


screens, the quality of its projection or in its proximity to Hungry
Cat, Suzanne Goin and David Lentz's seafood restaurant tted into
the ground oor of a condo building a fe...

Son of a Gun: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Whatever the current style in Los


Angeles restaurants ends up being
named, from the small-plate thing to the
xation on local, organic produce; the offcenter proteins to the international
palette of avors; and the resistance to
even mode...

Huckleberry: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

It's kind of a miracle to see the graciousness factory at work down at


Huckleberry the sweet smells, the pale walls, the way they keep the
lines moving and the tables cleared so that by the time you have
stood in line, picked out a sc...

Guelaguetza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

If any restaurant has earned the right to kick its shoes off and chill
for a while, it is probably Guelaguetza, which introduced essential
Oaxacan cooking to Los Angeles 20 years ago, and is the place where

15/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Oaxacan cooking to Los Angeles 20 years ago, and is the place where
the governor of Oaxaca stops in for dinn...

Guisados: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

In Mexico City, tacos de guisado are the


essential units of street-food
consumption, thick tortillas splashed with
stew from a heated cazuela, strewn with a
bit of onion, and thrust at you even before
you remember how to pronounce
calabacita. Taco...

Sotto: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I


thought I'd get that out of the way.
Because while there is an oven a
15,000-pound behemoth ballasted with
imported Vesuvian soil and chefs Steve
Samson and Zack Pollack come from
Ort...

The Gorbals: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

With the Pico Kosher Corridor, bustling


Israeli joints and the best delis in the
country, Los Angeles is not exactly
lacking in Jewish-identied places to eat.
But The Gorbals, Ilan Hall's restaurant in
the lobby of the old Alexandria Hotel,
may ...

Good Girl Dinette: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Tucked into a storefront below an old Masonic lodge, in the pierced


navel of the Highland Park art scene, Good Girl Dinette is so groovy
that sometimes it hurts to think about it, a queercentric, familyfriendly, vegan-tolerant storefront with a m...

Golden State: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Not everybody agrees about Golden State. Some people think the
cheeseburgers are the best in this part of Los Angeles; others merely
place them among the top ve. Arguments like these often require
ultrahopped suds, which Golden State has by the ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Spago: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

16/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Spago: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

The original Spago on Sunset was to New


American Cooking what Meet the Beatles
was to rock & roll: the one that changed
the rules. Designer pizza got its start in
that Sunset Strip dining room, as did
fusion cooking, the notion of the celebrity
ch...

Gjelina: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Want to make a grown woman blush? Suggest that the reason she
wants to go to this serene patio restaurant on Abbot Kinney is
because she wants to gaze deeply into a scruffy waiter's eyes. She
will object, of course, claiming that what she wants is...

Golden Deli: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Why is there still a line outside Golden Deli when very, very good
restaurants in the same strip mall are quiet as tombs? How has it
lasted nearly 25 years in a neighborhood where some of the
restaurant spaces turn over twice a year? Because Golde...

Fig: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

L.A. native Ray Garcia has emerged as


one of the most articulate spokesmen for
sustainable eating this year, putting
together food-literacy programs in local
high schools and teaching kids how to
grow and eat vegetables. He has a forager
on staff,...

Fab Hot Dogs: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

A steaming museum of American wiener culture, Fab Hot Dogs is


Joe Fabrocini's and Susie Speck Mayor's lovingly curated shrine to
the Hatch chile dogs of New Mexico, the slaw dogs of West Virginia,
the northern New Jerseystyle Italian hot do...

Father's Office: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Were Angelenos amused when Sang Yoon published a scholarly


dissertation on ketchup in the local paper this year? They were.
Yoon's reputation was largely built upon his refusal to allow the
sticky condiment into Father's Ofce, which was an unusu...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Eva: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

17/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Eva: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

"We only wanted to be loved," howled PiL's John Lydon. And there is
almost nothing Eva's Mark Gold, a veteran of Joachim Splichal's
haute cuisine armies of the night, will not resort to if he thinks it
might make you love him, too. Fancy an all-yo...

Euro Pane Bakery: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Sumi Chang's Euro Pane Bakery is the center of civilized life in


Pasadena, and you probably could set your watch by the appearance
of its regulars. It's a place to nd excellent to superb scones and
baguettes and pains au chocolat, of course, but...

El Parian: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

At this point in my life, I could no more change my allegiance to El


Parian than I could my blind devotion to the Lakers. Because I've
been coming here since the early days of Showtime, long enough to
remember when the waitresses asked not if you ...

Street: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If you were to poll foodistas about L.A.


kitchens of the 1980s, you would be likely
to come up with a lot of affection for City
Restaurant, where Susan Feniger and
Mary Sue Milliken explored the idea of
L.A. multiculturalism better than any
restau...

El Huarache Azteca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Without anyone much noticing the transition, Highland Park has


become one of the best neighborhoods in Los Angeles to experience
regional Mexican cooking. Even the trucks and taco tables serve
food from parts of Mexico barely represented here a de...

Din Tai Fung: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Xiao long bao, Shanghai-style soup dumplings, are primary objects


of desire in the San Gabriel Valley, hermetically sealed orbs lled
with minced pork and potentially lethal doses of scalding juice.
Sometimes the soup dumplings are enriched with ...

Dae Bok: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

The next time somebody attempts to tell you that Los Angeles is
lacking in cosmopolitan pleasures, it is your civic duty, I think, to
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

18/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

lacking in cosmopolitan pleasures, it is your civic duty, I think, to


point out that the city is big enough and diverse enough to support a
restaurant devoted to Korean blowsh stew....

Drago Centro: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Celestino Drago's grand restaurant,


opened in a banking complex at the depth
of the nancial crisis, has in the last few
years had to reinvent itself a dozen ways
in order to stay vital, and it is possible to
regard it as a wine bar, a center of ...

Cut: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

The rst thing you should know about Cut is that it is intended to be
one of the greatest steakhouses in the world, a Richard Meier space,
severe as an operating theater, whose pristine, exotically sourced
steaks, some of them from Japanese cows,...

Comme Ca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Owner David Myers may be off chasing kaiseki chefs around the
more squalid corners of Kyoto, and the local brasserie boom seems
to have been buried in the tidal wave of gastropubs, but sleek,
theatrically lit Comme a still aims to be all t...

Ciro's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

You can astral-project to Rajasthan if you like; I'll take the ironbarred, low-ceilinged dining room at this East L.A. institution, the
funk of frying meat, a plate of old-school chile verde and the tiny
dish of fresh, juicy avocado salsa that th...

Tacos Baja Ensenada: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Why is Tacos Baja Ensenada still on this list? Isn't it time to switch
allegiances to Ricky's, or Taco Nazo, to the Best Fish Taco in
Ensenada, or to any of the hundred other places that have learned
how to make this glorious dish? I don't know &m...

Church & State: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Everybody knows Church & State. It's that loud bistro decorated with
strings of Christmas lights year-round. Walter Manzke used to cook
there. It rules its street of luxury lofts, and it is nearly as hard as ever
to get a table on a Friday night, ...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

19/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Chang's Garden: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Although the San Gabriel Valley abounds in Chinese restaurants of


every description, they tend to lean more toward authenticity than
toward polish there are 250 noodle shops but nowhere to explore
Chinese haute cuisine. Chang's Garden, alt...

Chichn Itz: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

You should probably be going to Mercado


La Paloma anyway, because it's as close to
a utopian Los Angeles as you're going to
nd, a cooperatively run marketplace
whose second oor is home to nonprots
and neighborhood tutoring facilities, and
it...

Chung King: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

I spend an alarming portion of my reviewing life trying to prove a


simple proposition: There must be a better Sichuan restaurant in the
Los Angeles area than Chung King. I have chased around the San
Gabriel Valley for years, looking for a crunchie...

Chego: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Looking for a good time on the Westside? Stop by the back room at
Chego sometime, where customers assemble their own takeout
packages with the ease and grace of Keystone Kops. You really
haven't lived until you've seen a young corporate attorney t...

Tasting Kitchen: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Even after a couple of years, the Tasting


Kitchen feels more like an art collective
than it does a proper restaurant, a place
where the odd discussions you have with
your neighbors at the communal table
seem as vital to the project as the ...

Casa Bianca: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Sam Martorana, who was behind the


ovens at Casa Bianca for more than 50
years, was such a presence at the red-

20/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

years, was such a presence at the redchecked-tablecloth pizzeria that it was


hard to imagine it continuing after he
passed away. His pizza was idiosyncratic
to an extreme: th...

Campanile: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

The heart of regional cooking lies in the ability of its chefs not only
to work within the limitations imposed by the meager ingredients
available but also to exalt those limitations as the soul of the cuisine
itself. Rich regions eat cheeseburger...

Terroni: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Isn't this the place with the foosball? If I


were associated with Terroni, I'd probably
be getting angry about now. Because
while the Italian restaurant may refuse to
put herbs in its olive oil, to allow
Parmesan to be sprinkled on its lingu...

Bottega Louie: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Lingering on a Saturday morning, swabbing at a poached-egg


raviolo with a chunk of fresh epi bread and contemplating the last
drops of freshly squeezed tomato juice, it is hard to believe that
Bottega Louie hasn't always existed, a modern restaura...

Tsujita L.A.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Not long ago, I had barely heard of tsukemen, a Tokyo-born dish of


bare noodles, served with a superconcentrated dipping sauce of
reduced, sh-avored pork broth, which apparently is to regular
ramen what Intelligentsia is to Folgers. Los Angele...

Cacao: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Why isn't duck carnitas on every Mexican


menu in town? If you think about it, the
dish is almost inevitable duck meat
simmered in fat until it nearly collapses,
perfumed esh arranged atop crisply
fried sopes, a shotgun marriage of ...

Border Grill: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

21/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

When Border Grill rst opened a quartercentury ago, its premise was simple:
classically trained chefs, with rst-rate
ingredients, cooking Mexican food. Not
riffs on Mexican food, or chey
reinterpretations of Mexican food, but the
real thing,...

Bludso's: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If you were looking for an excuse to drive


down to Compton on a Saturday
afternoon, you could do worse than to
head to Bludso's, a pufng barbecue pit
whose dining room doubles as a church
on Sunday mornings, although its takeout
line is a pretty...

Vincenti: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Valentino may be grander than Vincenti,


and Giorgio Baldi may draw a more
famous clientele, but Vincenti is the
spiritual center of ne Italian cooking in
Los Angeles, its hearth. And betting a
hearth, much of Nicola Mastronardi's
food comes fr...

Babita: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

In a neighborhood better known for its Vietnamese noodle shops,


across street from a Serbian Orthodox church, Babita isn't quite
where you would expect a great Mexican restaurant to be, and you
could drive by a hundred times without noticing it wa...

Attari: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Tehrangeles is an extensive commercial strip, two miles of kebab


shops, semiformal restaurants and cafs. Yet what keeps drawing me
back to Westwood is a modest Iranian sandwich shop. An Attari
sandwich is close to a perfect thing: a length...

Antojitos Carmen: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Have you ever encountered a Mexico


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

22/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Have you ever encountered a Mexico


Citystyle huarache de huitlacoche?
Because if you haven't, you're really
missing out: a footlong "sandal" of fried
corn dough, too hot to touch but too
compelling not to, layered with steaming
middens of b...

Angelini Osteria: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

It's time, I think, to stop trying to explain my indifference to Angelini


Osteria in the rst years of its existence, which may have lain more
in my reverence for Gino Angelini's skills with alta cucina, which this
is not, than with any inherent ...

Angeli Caffe:99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If you wanted a pure blast of Los Angeles in the 1980s, you could
listen to an X album. Or you could visit Angeli Caffe, the restaurant
home of food-media czar Evan Kleiman, whose menu of roast
chicken, tagliata and spaghetti alla checca has barel...

Animal: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Would you like to go to Animal? I mean


right this second? You're probably out of
luck, because it's the most popular
restaurant in Los Angeles at the moment.
The seats are already lled with twice-aweek regulars, chefs in town for a taping,
fant...

Alcazar: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

When it's pretty late at night, and you are half-woozy on arak and
secondhand hookah smoke, and the fried mullet in front of you has
long since been transformed into skeletons yet you can't resist
swabbing bits of fried pita around the plate, hopi...

Akasha: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

We can all agree that Akasha is a crunchy Westside fever dream of a


restaurant, all recycled this and sustainably raised that, dark woods
guaranteed not to have even the address of the rainforest on their
BlackBerries and a very nice bowl of steam...

A-Frame: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

23/282

7/6/2016

2011

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If restaurants were Jeopardy! categories,


A-Frame's menu could be "Things Locals
Eat on the Beach in Hawaii.'' Because
aside from the great beach-eats
imperative, there may not be much else
connecting beer-can chicken and kettle
corn dusted with t...

Waterloo & City: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

It may be a stretch to consider Waterloo &


City, a pool-shooting, darts-playing, aleswilling, Ramones-blasting bar
shoehorned into a rundown coffee shop,
to be much more than a gloried bar. The
place is ostensibly a gastropub, whatever
that has...

Elvirita's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

In the great march of regional Mexican cooking across Los Angeles,


the cuisine of Puebla is usually reduced to a pair of dishes: mole
poblano, which has become a generic term referring to pretty much
any mole not made by Oaxacans, and cemitas. In ...

Spice Table: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

You might expect a restaurant from the


opening chef of Pizzeria Mozza to be
jammed from the moment it opened, and
you wouldn't be surprised to nd
quartinos of crisp Italian white wine.
Diligent ingredient sourcing would
practically be a given, a...

Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential L.A.


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

See also Anne Fishbein's slideshow and


our Google map. What is an essential Los
Angeles restaurant? I was thinking about
that over lunch at Providence a couple of
months ago, contemplating a dish of
Santa Barbara sea urchin cosseted with
gently sc...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Providence: 99 Essential Restaurants

24/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Providence: 99 Essential Restaurants


2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

At this point in his career, Michael


Cimarusti has the chef thing down cold,
poised when he addresses environmental
forums and genial on TV, the rst chef in
town to embrace the new cocktailian
movement and an advocate for the
coherence of Los An...

Pollos a la Brasa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

This Peruvian chicken shack is the kind of place you may have
thought was zoned out of existence, a kind of glassed-in shed set
down on a trafc island and nearly hidden by high drifts of
cordwood. The rst thing you notice about it is the wood ...

Playa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

My rst taste of Playa, John Sedlar's


small-plates restaurant in the old Grace
space up on Beverly, was something
called Maize Cake Bombay Taj: a thickish,
palm-sized tortilla patted out from
freshly ground nixtamal, passed across a
griddle just ...

Picca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

We are, I think, nearing the Peruvian


Moment in cooking, which is to say that
point where Peru's intricate interplay of
high-mountain produce and avors from
the sea, of pre-Columbian tradition,
European aesthetics and Asian technique,
are beginn...

Park's Barbecue: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

On the Lunar New Year, after we had worked our way through prime
rib-eye and brisket, beef tongue and skirt steak, tripe and special
pork belly that was not that day the prized Tokyo X, as well as a crisp
seafood pancake and the cold noodles calle...

Ray's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

An event restaurant the second it opened its doors, Ray's is just past
Chris Burden's street-lamp installation at the L.A. County Museum of
Art, in a glowing minimalist rectangle that abuts the soaring
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

25/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Art, in a glowing minimalist rectangle that abuts the soaring


Ahmanson Gallery like a glass shoebox p...

Palate Food + Wine: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

A relaxed, butter-yellow space in


Glendale's car-dealer district, Palate is a
fever dream of a restaurant, a dining
room owing into a cocktail lounge, a
wine bar, laboratories for curing meats
and aging cheeses and a well-curated
wine shop that ...

Night + Market: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

You probably wouldn't expect to nd L.A.'s best Thai street-food


specialist on the Sunset Strip, and you probably wouldn't expect it to
be afliated with the relatively mainstream Talesai, to which it is
attached like a leering evil twin. But Kr...

Oinkster: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

If you haven't been to the Oinkster in a while, what you probably


should know is that Andre Guerrero has nally gured out the
pastrami, which was a little rubbery and underseasoned for the rst
several months of the restaurant's life but now i...

The Nickel: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011


5 years ago | 99 Essentials

The last time I was at the Nickel, I asked for a bowl of plain, steamed
polenta. The waitress stood there, pencil unmoving, waiting for the
punch line of the joke. There was no joke polenta was what I
wanted but it didn't take long...

101 Noodle Express: 99 Essential


Restaurants 2011
5 years ago | 99 Essentials

Nine-coil large intestine and millet


porridge being what they are, Shandong
cooking may be a bit less accessible to the
average Angeleno than Chongqing fried
chicken or beef noodle soup. Chinese
gourmets consider Shandong to be one of
the four ess...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Sotto


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.

26/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.


First of all, Sotto is not really a pizzeria. I
thought I'd get that out of the way.
Because while there is an oven, a 15,000pound behemoth ballasted with imported
Vesuvian soil, and chefs Steve Samson
an...

Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In


Which Mr. Gold Considers Sotto
5 years ago | Italian Cuisine

Our wide-ranging restaurant critic


Jonathan Gold returns to the Westside to
take another bite out of Sotto.Sotto is a
different kind of Italian restaurant, a
shrine to the awesome heat of its oven, a
place where the hot, fresh bread can
come with ...

Sea Harbour: I Love The Smell of


Tendon in The Morning
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

In exotica-obsessed Los Angeles, it is


perhaps not unusual to dine on things like
spinach sauteed with minced foie gras,
steamed rice sheets with bitter melon,
fried ox tripe and tendon with noodle
rolls, dumplings stuffed with chestnut and
shrimp...

Beer Belly: From Death By Duck to


Lucky Charms Pancakes
5 years ago | Bars

We are in Koreatown. The customers are


Korean. The chef won this year's Korean
BBQ cookoff, with a dish of kimchibrined pork loin with Cismontane Double
IPA ssam-jang. But we are not eating
Korean food -- we are eating something
called Death by D...

Why Is It So Hard to Find a Decent


Risotto?
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I have a good


risotto? Half of the time I've had it in L.A.,
it has been sticky and overcooked. -Lorenzo Rossi, via Facebook...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Reviews Night +

27/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Night +


Market
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


It is selsh, perhaps, to covet another
city's Thai restaurant; to wonder what it
might be like if a favorite kitchen were on
Melrose instead of in, say, Kitsilano. Los
Angeles probably has more regional...

Church and State: Still Stellar Under


Jeremy Berlin
5 years ago | Bistros

Everybody knows Church and State. It's


that loud bistro, decorated year-round
with strings of Christmas lights. Walter
Manzke used to cook there. The drinks
used to be good, too. Is it still there? That
part of downtown was pretty cool before
the ...

Shaanxi Gourmet: More Fun with


Handmade Noodles + Untranslated
Menus in the SGV
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

In New York, Xi'an Famous Foods, a tiny,


sticky-tabled Flushing basement dive,
sprouted into a Shaanxi-cooking empire,
helped along both by Voice critic Robert
Sietsema's advocacy and by Anthony
Bourdain's televised moans of pleasure.
And a sleek,...

Central Vietnamese in the O.C. ... or


Echo Park
5 years ago | Vietnamese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: What's your favorite place


to eat Hue/Central Vietnam food in Los
Angeles? Also, do you ever venture down
to the O.C. for some eats? --Brian Tran,
via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Settebello


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

What's the Italian equivalent of barbecue? Neapolitan pizza, I'm


betting. Because proper Neapolitan pizza, fashioned from Caputo
tipo 00 our imported from Naples, crushed tomatoes from San
Marzano and cheese from the nest buffalos, is a man's ...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Omar's Xinxiang Restaurant


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

28/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I dearly miss the hand-pulled lagman noodles at the
long-shuttered Uzbekistan in Hollywood. The signicant chew and
the hearty accompanying lamb and vegetable sauce still haunt my
memories. I've yet to nd a replacement of the Cen...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Beijing Pie


House
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Today, we examine xian bing, dough disks
about the size and weight of a
shufeboard puck, tawny brown, slightly
domed, mottled on the surface with a
pebbly pattern that resembles Chinese
characters from ...

Gjelina: Pretty Patio, Prettier Patrons


5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Want to make a grown woman blush?


Suggest that the reason she wants to go to
Gjelina, the serene patio restaurant on
Abbot Kinney, is because she wants to
gaze deeply into a scruffy waiter's eyes.
She will object, of course, claiming that
what she...

Noodles From The "-stan" Countries


5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I dearly miss the handpulled lagman noodles at the longshuttered Uzbekistan in Hollywood. The
signicant chew and the hearty
accompanying lamb and vegetable sauce
still haunts my memories. I've yet to nd
a replacement of the Ce...

Settebello: Neapolitan Pizza, Nutella


Pizza + Italian Condoms!
5 years ago | Pizza

What's the Italian equivalent of barbecue?


Neapolitan pizza, I'm betting. Because
proper Neapolitan pizza, fashioned from
Caputo tipo 00 our imported from
Naples, crushed tomatoes from San
Marzano and cheese from the nest
buffalos, is a man's ...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Ink.


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

29/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Los Angeles is the land where the celebrity chef was born, where Q
ratings ruled, where journalists rst learned to ask, "What do you
cook on your night off?'' But L.A. has never seen a phenomenon like
Michael Voltaggio, whose snarling passion, a...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Book Club Eats


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in a book club with some pretty amazing women.
All of us are mothers read: limited budget but willing to splurge on
something special. We read mostly ction, and a couple of books on
our calendar are set in foreign coun...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mozza's


Whole Hog Dinners
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Were we talking about pop-ups, just the
two of us? Because if you've been paying
attention to this space, the subject has
come up quite a bit lately: pop-ups within
bakeries; pop-ups within breakfast join...

More Ink for Michael Voltaggio's Ink


5 years ago

Los Angeles is the land where the


celebrity chef was born, where Q ratings
ruled, where journalists rst learned to
ask, "What do you cook on your night
off?'' But L.A. has never seen a
phenomenon like Michael Voltaggio,
whose snarling passion, a...

Where to have a Book Club Dinner + a


Caveat
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in a book club with


some pretty amazing women. All of us are
mothers -- read: limited budget but
willing to splurge on something special.
We read mostly ction, and a couple of
books on our calendar are set in foreign
countries...

Jonathan Gold Recommends La Paella


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere in L.A. where I can nd angulas


Spanish baby eels? Anthony Pan, via Facebook Dear Mr. Pan:
Angulas? Really? Eels are slithering toward the endangered list, you
know. We probably should lay off the b...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

30/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

know. We probably should lay off the b...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Next Door by Josie


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I saw the best chefs of my generation employed by gastropubs; Racer


5, wild game chili, dry-rubbed riblets with their calico slaw dragging
themselves through the steel seats at dawn looking for artisanal
grits, molasses-glazed bacon, with New Orle...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Guisados


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Today's object of desire: chiles torreados,
which is to say chiles, sauteed over a high
heat until they blister and char, served in
a steaming, fragrant mass that both tinges
and overwhelms everything it ...

Next Door by Josie, In Free Verse


5 years ago

I saw the best chefs of my generation


employed by gastropubs; Racer 5, wild
game chili, dry-rubbed riblets with their
calico slaw dragging themselves through
the steel seats at dawn looking for
artisanal grits, molasses-glazed bacon,
with New Orle...

Want Angulas, Spanish Baby Eels?


Get the Fake Version
5 years ago | Spanish Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere in L.A.


where I can nd angulas -- Spanish baby
eels? --Anthony Pan, via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Ramen Yamadaya


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

What could be more piggy than pork? Tonkotsu ramen, acionados


insist, and they may have a point. Tonkotsu broth is made by boiling
pork bones until they collapse under their own weight. Nobody but a
puritan would think of ordering tonkotsu ramen...

Jonathan Gold Recommends


Elvirita's Cemitas
5 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: My brother called me last


night to say that his deployment is almost
over, and he can't wait to taste the cemitas
from Pal Cabron again. He's been talking

31/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

from Pal Cabron again. He's been talking


them up to his friends, and has built them
up in his head as the perfect cure...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Picca


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


We are, I think, nearing the Peruvian
moment in cooking, that point where
Peru's intricate interplay of highmountain produce and avors from the
sea, of pre-Colombian tradition,
European aesthetics and ...

Ramen Yamadaya: An Umami Gun


Set to Stun
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

What could be more piggy than pork?


Tonkotsu ramen, acionados insist, and
they may have a point. Tonkotsu broth is
made by boiling pork bones until they
collapse under their own weight. Nobody
but a puritan would think of ordering
tonkotsu ramen...

I'm Back From the War: Now Where


Can I Get Cemitas?
5 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: My brother called me last


night to say that his deployment is almost
over, and he can't wait to taste the cemitas
from Pal Cabron again. He's been talking
them up to his friends, and has built them
up in his head as the perfect cure...

Jonathan Gold's Favorite Condiments


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I know you have had a lot of wonderfully great meals.
But when you don't get a memorable meal, what condiment(s) do
you reach for rst to spruce it up a bit, besides the old S&P, of
course? OhmarGo, via Facebook Dear Mr. Go:...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Fat Spoon


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Japanese curry, as usually constituted, features in some of the most


chef-proof restaurants in the world. The spicy, translucent goop
whose lineage traces from Africa, through resident Indian cooks,
through Portuguese traders whose boats w...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Reviews Saint Estephe

32/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Saint Estephe


Menu at Rivera
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


If you had gone to Saint Estphe 25 years
ago, pulled up to the valet in a Manhattan
Beach mall also home to an Olive Garden,
a Coco's and a Chili's, greeted the maitre
d' and been escorted to a ta...

Fat Spoon: Japanese Curry with A


Pedigree
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Japanese curry, as usually constituted,


features in some of the most chef-proof
restaurants in the world. The spicy,
translucent goop -- whose lineage traces
from Africa, through resident Indian
cooks, through Portuguese traders whose
boats were p...

Mr. Gold's Favorite Condiments


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I know you have had a lot


of wonderfully great meals. But when you
don't get a memorable meal, what
condiment(s) do you reach for rst to
spruce it up a bit, besides the old S&P, of
course? --OhmarGo, via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold's Tuesday Home-Cooking Plans


5 years ago

Jonathan Gold Reviews Ink.Sack


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For followers of Michael Voltaggio Top Chef champion, former


chef de cuisine at Bazaar, noted liquid-nitrogen enthusiast it may
be important to state what Ink.Sack, the new sandwich shop a few
doors down from his opening-in-Septemb...

Jonathan Gold Reviews L.A. Weekly


Pancake Breakfast
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Last weekend, if the Twitter feeds can be
believed, was an important one in the
world of cuisine. The old school ew up
to Berkeley, where Chez Panisse was
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

33/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

celebrating its 40th anniversary with a


series ...

Voltaggio's Ink.Sack: Avant-Garde


Lunch Packed by a Top Chef Champ
5 years ago

For followers of Michael Voltaggio -- Top


Chef champion, former chef de cuisine at
Bazaar, noted liquid-nitrogen enthusiast - it may be important to state what
Ink.Sack, the new sandwich shop a few
doors down from his opening-inSeptember restaur...

What Does a Restaurant Critic Cook


at Home?
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What do you cook at home


(has someone already asked you this?),
oh, say, on a Tuesday night? --Sarah Gim,
via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold Recommends Frida


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm curious: Is there any place to get a decent
molcajete west of downtown and north of the 10? Bob Stevens, via
Facebook Dear Mr. Stevens: I always think of molcajete as strictly an
east-of-the-river thing, usually a subspec...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Soban


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


A couple of weeks ago at the annual
KBBQ Cook-off, for outstanding
Koreatown barbecue dishes, a woman
walked up to the judging table after the
winner had been chosen and asked if I'd
ever been to Soban, a...

Where to Get a Good Westside


Molcajete: The Entre, Not the Vessel
5 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm curious: Is there any


place to get a decent molcajete west of
downtown and north of the 10? --Bob
Stevens, via Facebook...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Recommends Simpang Asia

34/282

7/6/2016

Jonathan Gold Recommends Simpang Asia

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: It is tragic that Indo Cafe has closed. Tragic. And I
have no idea why. Since I'm not about to hire a private detective, as
attractive as that may sound, where can you direct me for nasi
bungkus (a rice dish wrapped in a banana leaf...

Jonathan Gold Reviews LudoBites 7.0


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We have been down this road before, you and I, six-point-oh times at
least. Ludovic Lefebvre cooks an exquisite dinner in a space not
designed to accommodate dinner. Reservations are difcult to get,
sometimes extraordinarily difcult. You feel ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Moko


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Watermelon namul, dusted with chile,
cold and juicy and crisp? Luscious purple
eggplant, charred on the grill, slicked with
spicy-sweet gochujang? Lemon
cucumbers tossed with fresh ginger and
white nectar...

LudoBites 7.0: Distilled Christmas


Trees and Freedom
5 years ago | Pop-up Restaurants

We have been down this road before, you


and I, six-point-oh times at least. Ludovic
Lefebvre cooks an exquisite dinner in a
space not designed to accommodate
dinner. Reservations are difcult to get,
sometimes extraordinarily difcult. You
feel ...

A Replacement for Indo Cafe's Fried


Chicken and Nasi Bungkus
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: It is tragic that Indo Cafe


has closed. Tragic. And I have no idea
why. Since I'm not about to hire a private
detective, as attractive as that may sound,
where can you direct me for nasi bungkus
(a rice dish wrapped in a banana leaf...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mother Dough


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Am I the last person to discover the pizza at Mother Dough? Very


well, I am the last. Because I have been at parties where I was asked
about the pizzeria up to half a dozen times, and the smug Silver Lake
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

35/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

about the pizzeria up to half a dozen times, and the smug Silver Lake
dudes, the ones always trying to make excu...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mandarin House


5 years ago

Jajangmyun: black bean avor at the Korean-Chinese border Dear


Mr. Gold: In spite of this heat, I've got a hankering for some
jajangmyun. Any suggestions? Megan Akemi Cadena, via Facebook
Dear Ms. Cadena: Is there ever a wrong time for jaj...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Starry


Kitchen
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Into the depths of California Plaza,
crushed beneath giant towers, jammed
into a space almost certainly congured
for fast food, Starry Kitchen is as
improbable as any restaurant in Los
Angeles, an illeg...

Mother Dough: Bringing Pizza


Bragging Rights to Silver Lake
5 years ago | Pizza

Am I the last person to discover the pizza


at Mother Dough? Very well, I am the last.
Because I have been at parties where I
was asked about the pizzeria up to half a
dozen times, and the smug Silver Lake
dudes, the ones always trying to make
excu...

Jajangmyun: The Divine Crankcase


Sludge of Korean-Chinese Cuisine
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: In spite of this heat, I've


got a hankering for some jajangmyun.
Any suggestions? --Megan Akemi
Cadena, via Facebook
...

Jonathan Gold on Palestinian Chicken


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My colleagues and I are interested to know if


Palestinian chicken, as featured in a recent Curb Your Enthusiasm, is
really a dish. If so, is it something you have sampled or seen a recipe
for? B Dear B: It's not generally ref...

Jonathan Gold Reviews the Flying Pig Cafe


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

36/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You know the Flying Pig truck it's the one, run by a Cordon Bleu
chef, with the pork-belly buns, the duck tacos with mandarin
oranges, the sliders with banana mustard and the peanut-butter
carnitas. It's pink; it's cross-cultural; the line...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Wako


Donkasu
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Korean pork again? Surely it's too soon!
Yet as the air grows still and hot, the days
melt into languor and the Dodgers swoon
toward the cellar, the pull of summer food
becomes impossibly strong y...

Palestinian Chicken Conflict: Only in


Curb Your Enthusiasm or Is It Real?
5 years ago | Poultry

Dear Mr. Gold: My colleagues and I are


interested to know if Palestinian chicken,
as featured in
last week's Curb Your
Enthusiasm, is really a dish. If so, is it
something you have sampled or seen a
recipe for?
--B...

Flying Pig Cafe: A Food Truck Gets Its


Own Parking Space
5 years ago | Food Trucks

You know the Flying Pig truck -- it's the


one, run by a Cordon Bleu chef, with the
pork-belly buns, the duck tacos with
mandarin oranges, the sliders with
banana mustard and the peanut-butter
carnitas. It's pink; it's cross-cultural; the
lines are...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Glowfish Truck


5 years ago

Jonathan Gold Reviews Iota


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Are you a teenage girl? Do you know a teenage girl? Because if so,
Iota may be your favorite place in the universe, a barn-size K-town
coffeehouse where K-pop booms from giant screens, the air is
permeated with caffeine, the walls pop with color, ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Reviews Palsaik

37/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Palsaik


Samgyeopsal
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slideshow.


Today's obsession: sam-gyeopsal, fresh,
Korean-style pork belly, cut into thick
slabs, cooked on a hot griddle, sliced into
serving portions with sharp scissors and
folded into a bit of vegetation with bea...

Searching for Okonomiyaki:


Japanese
Pancakes
5 years ago | Food Trucks

Dear Mr. Gold: Outside of Gaja in Lomita,


I've yet to nd decent okonomiyaki in Los
Angeles. Have you stumbled across any
respectable versions? Proximity to
downtown would be a huge plus. --Daniel
Dy, via Facebook...

Iota: K-Town Teen Heaven


5 years ago | Coffee

Are you a teenage girl? Do you know a


teenage girl? Because if so, Iota may be
your favorite place in the universe, a
barn-size K-town coffeehouse where Kpop booms from giant screens, the air is
permeated with caffeine, the walls pop
with color, ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Il Fico


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Puglia, the sliver of Southern Italy often described as the heel of the
boot, is home to some of the most distinctive cooking in Italy, a plain,
solid, vegetable-intensive cuisine thrumming with the strong avors
of olives and garlic, rapini and ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Chimu


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Hill Street, where it traces the eastern
edge of Bunker Hill, has always been an
uneasy line of demarcation in Los
Angeles, a few unglamorous blocks,
anked by an almost impassably steep
slope that marks...

Il Fico: Pugliese Cooking Comes to


L.A.
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

38/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Italian Cuisine

Puglia, the sliver of Southern Italy often


described as the heel of the boot, is home
to some of the most distinctive cooking in
Italy, a plain, solid, vegetable-intensive
cuisine thrumming with the strong avors
of olives and garlic, rapini and ...

The New KFC: Korean Fried Chicken


5 years ago | Poultry

Dear Mr. Gold: You seem to be writing


about a lot of Korean restaurants recently.
The new KFC is Korean Fried Chicken.
I've tried BonChon and Kyochon. While
both are good, I have to give the edge to
Kyochon, although BonChon gets points
for easy p...

10 Handy Rules For Tipping


5 years ago | Etiquette

1. Tip 20 percent. Every time. Pre-tax?


Post-tax? In practice the difference is no
more than a buck or two, unless you're
Joe Pytka. In which case there's a $10,000
wine tab, so it works out. But the idea that
a tip is optional, or variable, is a ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Picca


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you look at restaurants as movies, and sometimes its hard not to,
Picca is one of those places whose trailers seem to have been
running forever. Theres Mo-Chica, of course, where Ricardo Zarate
rst came up with his concept of mo...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Shin Sen Gumi


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm a raw vegan who eats nothing but purple foods
starting with the letter Q. Can you recommend a good steak house
for me? Robyn Brown, via Facebook Dear Ms. Brown: A lot of
quinoa is purple, or at least a passable purplish r...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Antojitos


Carmen
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Have you ever encountered a Mexico
Citystyle huarache de huitlacoche?
Because if you haven't, at a favorite truck,
or at Huaraches Azteca, or especially at
Antojitos Carmen in Boyle Heights,
you're...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

39/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

First Bite: Picca Mixes Peruvian


Flavors With Sushi Aesthetic
5 years ago | Peruvian Cuisine

If you look at restaurants as movies, and


sometimes it's hard not to, Picca is one of
those places whose trailers seem to have
been running forever. There's Mo-Chica,
of course, where Ricardo Zarate rst
came up with his concept of modern
Peruvia...

Ask Mr. Gold: Yuzu Ramen + Purple


Foods
That Start With "Q"
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm a raw vegan who eats


nothing but purple foods starting with the
letter Q. Can you recommend a good
steakhouse for me? --Robyn Brown, via
Facebook...

Ask Mr. Gold: Seor Bayless + Where


To Eat Regional Mexican Food in L.A.
5 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Chef Rick Bayless has


continuously told the media that he
thinks L.A. is a "timid" food city and that
we do not have as good regional Mexican
cooking as what he can nd in Chicago.
He seems to think that we only have
"California" M...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mon Land


5 years ago

Dear Mr Gold: My husband and I are about to celebrate our ninth


wedding anniversary. Do you have any suggestions for a place that is
incredibly romantic, where we can eat outside comfortably and
(here's the challenge) that is healthy without being...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Son of a Gun


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The rst time I dropped by Son of a Gun,
which is Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's
sh restaurant near the Beverly Center, I
was pretty sure that they were trying to
do something like an American version
of...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: Seeking Romantic,

40/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: Seeking Romantic,


Inexpensive, Healthy, Not Boring,
Wheat- and dairy-free Restaurant
(with aged Mezcal)
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: My husband and I are


about to celebrate our ninth wedding
anniversary. Do you have any suggestions
for a place that is incredibly romantic,
where we can eat outside comfortably
and (here's the challenge) that is healthy
without bein...

Drinking to Digest
5 years ago

Jonathan Gold Reviews Eighth Street


Soondae
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Do you remember the rst time a website
seemed to change your life? Because I've
been spending a lot of time lately on
Google Translate, which may not have
evolved from the sticks-and-rocks
Babelsh qui...

Ask Mr. Gold: Thoughts on Digestifs,


or Drinking to Digest
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What are your thoughts on


digestifs? I always want one, especially
after a rare, expensive meal, but tend to
regret it the next day. Is there a good rule
of thumb on drinking after eating a rich
meal? --Scott Vickers, via Facebook...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Lao Bian Dumpling


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The storefront that houses Lao Bian Dumpling has had many faces
over the last few years, including Noodle Island, a favorite for its
Hainan chicken rice. Its transformation into Lao Bian Dumpling was
pretty recent. But even with the rapid turnover...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Umami


Burger
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

41/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


To make a hamburger, if you happen to be
Nathan Myhrvold, you grind short rib
meat so that the bers of the meat are all
facing the same way, you carefully form
your patty so that the grain is vertically...

Jonathan Gold's Pico Picks


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Have you published a list of the 10 best places for L.A.
street food and/or "dives"? I'd like to tour them on bicycle, so if they
are concentrated in one area, that would be best and hopefully a
slightly more urban area like...

Ask Mr. Gold: Top 10 Pico Boulevard


Eats
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Have you published a list


of the 10 best places for L.A. street food
and/or "dives"? I'd like to tour them on
bicycle, so if they are concentrated in one
general area, that would be best -- and
hopefully a slightly more urban area l...

First Bite: The Chinese Revolving


Door at Lao Bian Dumpling
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

The storefront that houses Lao Bian


Dumpling has had many faces over the
last few years, including Noodle Island, a
favorite for its Hainan chicken rice. Its
transformation into Lao Bian Dumpling
was pretty recent. But even with the rapid
turnover...

Salt's Cure: Steak on a Budget


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I've had the steak at Jar, done the Campanile Kansas
City thing, spent a paycheck at Cut and spent way too much time
with Ruth and Morton, so tell me something I don't know: Where can
I nd a delicious $25 steak in L.A. with a low...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Noodle Boy


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


To say that the menu at Noodle Boy is
minimal is probably understating things.
You can get noodle soup. You can get
noodles without soup. You can get soup
without noodles. That's pretty much the

42/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

without noodles. That's pretty much the


end of th...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Papaya King


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When Americas hot dog traditions are discussed, the Talmudic


parsing of the Chicago dog and the Detroit Coney and the Rochester
white-hot, somebody will inevitably bring up the New York hot dog,
as if it were an entity conforming to a singl...

Joan Luther, Longtime Restaurant Publicist, Dies at 83


5 years ago | Food News

In the Pleiocene epoch of restaurants in Los Angeles, before Yelp,


before blogs, before even the Usenet groups, restaurant publicists
were a rare and exotic breed, neither hip as music publicists nor
sleekly professional as lm acks, but creatu...

Ask Mr. Gold: Steak on a Budget at


Salt's Cure
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I've had the steak at Jar,


done the Campanile Kansas City thing,
spent a paycheck at Cut and spent way
too much time with Ruth and Morton, so
tell me something I don't know: Where
can I nd a delicious $25 steak in L.A. with
a low...

First Bite: Papaya King Brings Latenight Hot Dogging to Hollywood


5 years ago

When America's hot dog traditions are


discussed, the Talmudic parsing of the
Chicago dog and the Detroit coney and
the Rochester white-hot, somebody will
inevitably bring up the New York hot dog,
as if it were an entity conforming to a
single, Pla...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Luggage Room


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

La Grande Orange, the Santa Monica-based bar-and-grill octopus,


has been poking its tentacles into all kinds of places lately, including
the majestic Anisette space in Santa Monica, where it has just
installed a gastropub called the Mist. Its ex...

Finding an Authentic Fake Restaurant in L.A.


5 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

43/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What's your favorite fake restaurant in Los Angeles?
(However you feel like dening it.) David Chow (via Facebook)
Dear Mr. Chow: What is a fake restaurant, exactly? Is it a place like
Happy Family, serving kung pao chicken ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Finding an Authentic


Fake Restaurant in L.A.
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What's your favorite fake


restaurant in Los Angeles? (However you
feel like dening it.) --David Chow (via
Facebook)...

First Bite: Luggage Room Unpacks in


Pasadena
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

La Grande Orange, the Santa Monicabased bar-and-grill octopus, has been


poking its tentacles into all kinds of
places lately, including the majestic
Anisette space in Santa Monica, where it
has just installed a gastropub called The
Mist. Its ex...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Spice Table


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


If you wanted to understand the precise
state of L.A. cooking at the moment, you
could take a look at the roasted
marrowbones at Spice Table downtown, a
dish that seems to express everything
important abo...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mezze


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Middle Eastern moment in L.A. restaurants may be in full swing,


having gone from the occasional hit of charmoula or side of Israeli
couscous to entire high-end menus, from kebab dives to palaces of
cuisine. A new hotel restaurant, a fancy lunc...

Filling the New York-style Pizza Vacuum


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Have you discovered near-authentic New York thincrust pizza in the Los Angeles area? C Afe, Pasadena, via Facebook
Dear C: The words "authentic,'' "New York" and "pizza" in
conjunction mean nothing but trouble around here. T...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Reviews Steingarten

44/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Steingarten


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


We are, I think, living in the golden age of
beer in Los Angeles, an era when nearly
any malty craving, no matter how
recondite, can be satised. Are you partial
to monk-made Trappist ales? In some
parts...

First Bite: At Mezze, Middle East and


America Getting Along After All
5 years ago

The Middle Eastern moment in Los


Angeles restaurants may be in full swing,
having gone from the occasional hit of
charmoula or side of Israeli couscous to
entire high-end menus, from kebab dives
to palaces of cuisine. A new hotel
restaurant, a fan...

Ask Mr. Gold: Filling the New Yorkstyle Pizza Vacuum


5 years ago | Pizza

Dear Mr. Gold: Have you discovered nearauthentic New York thin-crust pizza in
the Los Angeles area? --C Afe, Pasadena,
via Facebook...

Nathan McCall: The Butcher of


Hillhurst Avenue
5 years ago | Butchery

I am sitting with friends at a Korean


restaurant, lunching on boiled monksh
and sweet wild-raspberry wine. My
cellphone rings in my pocket. From the
rhythm of the buzzing, I know exactly
what this is about. The goods have
arrived, beautiful stuf...

Nathan McCall: The Butcher of


Hillhurst Avenue
5 years ago | People

I am sitting with friends at a Korean


restaurant, lunching on boiled monksh
and sweet wild-raspberry wine. My
cellphone rings in my pocket. From the
rhythm of the buzzing, I know exactly
what this is about. The goods have
arrived, beautiful stuf...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

45/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

arrived, beautiful stuf...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Moore's Delicatessen


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Everybody knows what a deli is supposed to be: an enormous dining


room, stinking of garlic, bolstered by corned beef and chicken in a
pot, with giant halvah displays teetering by the cash register. And
then there's Moore's Delicatessen, a sparklin...

Jonathan Gold Samples New York's


Best Eateries During Beard Weekend
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever been to one of those


parties where everybody asks you what
you've been reading, or if you've seen any
good movies? Because if you're in New
York City anywhere around what has
become known as Beard Weekend, that
slip of time between t...

Ask Mr. Gold: A Slow Eater's


Sanctuary at Aroma Caf
5 years ago | Middle Eastern Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I often nd myself in the


delightful company of very slow eaters.
What are some good places to linger over
a meal without incurring the passiveaggression of the waitstaff? --Nate Smith,
via Facebook...

First Bite: Smoked Salmon With


SpongeBob at Moore's Delicatessan
5 years ago | Delis

Everybody knows what a deli is supposed


to be: an enormous dining room, stinking
of garlic, bolstered by corned beef and
chicken in a pot, with giant halvah
displays teetering by the cash register.
And then there's Moore's Delicatessen, a
sparklin...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Eternal Dilemma of


LAX Food
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Do you have a lunch


recommendation near LAX? I'm not
opposed to In-N-Out, just looking for
other options. --Evan Cohen, via
Facebook...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

46/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Judges Cochon 555's


Traveling Pork and Wine Bacchanalia
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


If food is the new rock & roll, and we have
every reason to believe that it is, Cochon
555 is the Porkapalooza of the medium, a
traveling circus of sustainability and a
locavore rodeo, a roadshow of wine,...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Ray's at LACMA


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

To get to Ray's, the new restaurant at the Los Angeles County


Museum of Art, you thread your way through Chris Burden's
streetlamp installation, past the outdoor Stark Bar and into a
glowing minimalist rectangle that abuts the soaring Ahmanson gal...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Noodle Guy


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Kobe beef, which is to say American
Wagyu beef, changed the meaty face of
cuisine in the United States: a master race
of cattle, developed in Japan, whose meat
was tenderer, tastier and far more
marbled t...

Ask Mr. Gold: Finding Okonomiyaki in


Lomita
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I had okonomiyaki in


Hiroshima a few years ago. It's a standalone wonderful hangover food, and I'd
imagine it's even pretty great with highquality ingredients. Any
recommendations to nd this treat in Los
Angeles? --Scott Cody, v...

First Bite: Dining Artfully at Ray's


5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

To get to Ray's, the new restaurant at the


Los Angeles County Museum of Art, you
thread your way through Chris Burden's
streetlamp installation, past the outdoor
Stark Bar and into a glowing minimalist
rectangle that abuts the soaring
Ahmanson gal...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Jonathan Gold Reviews Sotto

47/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Sotto


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When it housed Test Kitchen, the dim, low-ceilinged restaurant


space below the old Orlando-Orsini had a kind of cheerful rec-room
vibe, like a pop-up jazz club where the artists just happen to wield
knives instead of saxophones. As Sotto, the new ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews the Tar Pit


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Last night I wanted to take my friend out for a
nightcap in a spot with yummy food and an older crowd. Well, older
than 20s her prerequisite. We wouldn't have arrived until midnight.
We were in Hollywood and could have drive...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Lukshon


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


It is a warm spring night, with a hint of
the Santa Anas in the air, and the least
likely place in Los Angeles to experience a
pastoral groove is probably the outside
seating area at Lukshon, in the alley...

First Bite: Sotto, or The Happiness of


Abattoir Jocks
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

When it housed Test Kitchen, the dim,


low-ceilinged restaurant space below the
old Orlando-Orsini had a kind of cheerful
rec-room vibe, like a pop-up jazz club
where the artists just happen to wield
knives instead of saxophones. As Sotto,
the new ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Maturity at Midnight at


The Tar Pit
5 years ago | Neighborhoods

Dear Mr. Gold: Last night I wanted to take


my friend out for a nightcap in a spot with
yummy food and an older crowd. Well,
older than 20s -- her prerequisite. We
wouldn't have arrived until midnight. We
were in Hollywood and could have driven
any...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Olive & Thyme


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

A ne restaurant, we all know, requires a chef to put it together; a


greasy spoon needs a gifted cook. But a good sandwich shop,
especially a good sandwich shop in a business district, can more
properly be the domain of a curator: somebody with a...

48/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

properly be the domain of a curator: somebody with a...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Pacific Fish Center


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: After breaking up with a guy whose idea of ne dining
was Denny's (not kidding), I've met someone I like rather a lot. Based
on your recommendations, our rst date was at Newport Seafood.
(Spicy lobster on a plate the size of a pa...

Ask Mr. Gold: Big Plate Dating


5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: After breaking up with a


guy whose idea of ne dining was Denny's
(not kidding), I've met someone I like
rather a lot. Based on your
recommendations, our rst date was at
Newport Seafood. (Spicy lobster on a
plate the size of a pa...

First Bite: Olive & Thyme, or The


Sandwich Shop Done Right
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

A ne restaurant, we all know, requires a


chef to put it together; a greasy spoon
needs a gifted cook. But a good sandwich
shop, especially a good sandwich shop in
a business district, can more properly be
the domain of a curator: somebody with
a...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Nha Trang


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


It has come to my attention that some of
you think I have been paying too much
attention to noodle shops in San Gabriel.
And I realize, yes, I have been writing
quite a bit about San Gabriel noodle
shops ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Fig & Olive


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In case you were wondering how the restaurant Fig & Olive got its
name, there are gs and olives on everything, even at this time of
year, when gs are as far out of season as pumpkins: gs with
gorgonzola on a soggy puff-pastry tart; gs in a...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Mo-Chica


5 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

49/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What's the big deal with quinoa? I couldn't even
pronounce it right when I rst saw it on the menu at Hugo's in Studio
City. Then I saw it at Trader Joe's, then everywhere. Where did it
come from and why is it so popular now? And,...

Jonathan Gold Reviews the Olive


Garden
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


There are certain protocols to April Fools'
pranks in the modern newsroom, and if
you've worked at newspapers long
enough, you've probably seen most of
them the urgent messages from
Heywood Jablom...

First Bite: Fig & Olive, and More Figs


and Olives
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

In case you were wondering how the


restaurant Fig & Olive got its name, there
are gs and olives on everything, even at
this time of year, when gs are as far out
of season as pumpkins: gs with
gorgonzola on a soggy puff-pastry tart;
gs in a...

From the Archives: Jonathan Gold's


"13 Ways of Looking at Nirvana" (Kurt
Cobain, RIP 17 Years Ago Today)
5 years ago | Goodbye

Today, on the 17th anniversary of Kurt


Cobain's untimely death, we reprint the
following reections from Jonathan Gold,
originally written seven years ago. 1. A
friend's East Village studio somewhere in
July 1989. Nirvana, who had slept on the
...

Ask Mr. Gold: What's The Big Deal


With Quinoa?
5 years ago | Peruvian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: What's the big deal with


quinoa? I couldn't even pronounce it right
when I rst saw it on the menu at Hugo's
in Studio City. Then I saw it at Trader Joe's
and then I saw it everywhere. It has
probably been around forever, but has o...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

50/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Son of a Gun


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Whatever the current style in L.A. restaurants ends up being named,


all of it from the small-plate thing to the xation on local, organic
produce; the off-center proteins to the international palette of
avors; and the resistance to even...

Jonathan Gold on Kid-Friendly Restaurants


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Best kid-friendly burger joint? Best kid-friendly


brasserie? Best kid-friendly breakfast joint (besides Dinah's)? Best
kid-friendly noodle/pot-sticker joint? Michael (via Facebook) Dear
Michael: I would maintain that all burg...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Kid-Friendly


Restaurant
5 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Best kid-friendly burger


joint? Best kid-friendly brasserie? Best
kid-friendly breakfast joint (besides
Dinah's)? Best kid-friendly
noodle/potsticker joint? --Michael (via
Facebook)...

First Bite: Son of a Gun, or What


Would You Want To Change Anyway?
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Whatever the current style in Los Angeles


restaurants ends up being named, all of it
-- from the small-plate thing to the
xation on local, organic produce; the offcenter proteins to the international
palette of avors; and the resistance to
ev...

A Nate Dogg Obituary, by Jonathan


Gold
5 years ago | Goodbye

Within the structure of a classic G-funk


track, a musical form as precise as a
Mozart string quintet, after the opening
skit, the establishment of the minimal
beat, the rapper's expository verse and
the drowsy one-ngered counterpoint, it
is at l...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Robata Jinya


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

51/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The most striking Japanese dish I've had
lately? It's hard to say, although at the
moment I am tending toward a dish of
warm tofu freshly made at table: a
beautifully weathered bowl, a few drops
of nigari...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Spice Table


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You might expect a new restaurant from the opening chef of Pizzeria
Mozza to be jammed from the moment it opened, and you wouldn't
be surprised to nd quartinos of crisp Italian white wine. Diligent
ingredient sourcing would practically be a give...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Pho Filet


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My ancee and I are trying to eat everything on your
99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die list, but we noticed that a
couple of of the restaurants have closed down: Anisette Brasserie
and Pho Bac. Can you suggest restaurants to ...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Beijing Duck


House in San Gabriel
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


Was the Caesar salad at Chasen's better
than the Caesar at Musso and Frank? It's
too long ago to remember. Is Valerie's
version of crunch cake as good as the one
they used to serve at Blum's? Hard to
tell...

Ask Mr. Gold: Take Two Down, Pass


'em Around
5 years ago | French Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: My ancee and I are trying


to eat everything on your 99 Things to Eat
in L.A. Before You Die list, but we noticed
that a couple of of the restaurants have
closed down: Anisette Brasserie and Pho
Bac. Can you suggest restaurants to ...

First Bite: Spice Table in Little Tokyo


5 years ago | Asian Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

You might expect a new restaurant from


the opening chef of Pizzeria Mozza to be
jammed from the moment it opened, and
you wouldn't be surprised to nd
quartinos of crisp Italian white wine.

52/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

quartinos of crisp Italian white wine.


Diligent ingredient sourcing would
practically be a give...

Weird Science: Bad Hare Day


5 years ago

Enormous bunny rabbits, six times the


size of today's rabbits, roamed Minorca
three to ve million years ago, reports
Discovery News. Too big to hop, the wellmarbled creatures, ominously known as
N. rex, dragged their cottontails around
the Cata...

Your Royal Wedding Shopping PSA:


or, How To Recreate Roger Daltrey's
Bathtub of Baked Beans
5 years ago | Shopping

The upcoming Royal Wedding, as you


know, is the Big One; the Super Bowl, the
NBA Finals and the World Cup rolled into
one for that not insignicant segment of
the populace more interested in romance
than in watching grown men kick a ball.
We all ...

Jontahan Gold Reviews Frysmith


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere local that serves poutine? I have
seen pictures of the dish, which apparently includes fries, cheese
curds and gravy, but I have never seen it in a restaurant. Have you
ever tried poutine? It looks like a french fr...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Playa


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.


The discovery of a new dish, wrote
Brillat-Savarin, does more for human
happiness than the discovery of a new
star. This week's splash of happiness is
the maize cake Bombay Taj as served at
Playa, John Se...

Ask Mr. Gold: Poutine in Los Angeles,


or The Endurance of Boy Food
5 years ago | Canadian Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere local


that serves poutine? I have seen pictures
of the dish, which apparently includes
fries, cheese curds and gravy, but I have

53/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

fries, cheese curds and gravy, but I have


never seen it in a restaurant. Have you
ever tried poutine? It looks like a french
fr...

Jonathan Gold on Saltenas


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Salteas are called that because they are the
empanada style of the province of Salta, squarely in Argentina. Sure,
they eat them elsewhere, but calling them Bolivian would be like
saying that Tex-Mex music is kinda from Ariz...

Jonathan Gold Reviews Lucky Noodle


King: Many Spicy Returns
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Are you looking for dan dan mian?


Because everybody knows where to get
the best dan dan mian or at least they
did until Chuan Yu Noodle Town, the tiny,
sticky-table dive that specialized in the
stuff, abruptly shut down around the rst
of...

Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of Salteas,


Revisited
5 years ago | Argentine Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Salteas are called that


because they are the empanada style of
the province of Salta, squarely in
Argentina. Sure, they eat them elsewhere,
but calling them Bolivian would be like
saying that Tex-Mex music is kinda from
Ariz...

L.A.'s Best Cocktails


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We have, I think, nearly come to


agreement on what an essential
restaurant might be in Los Angeles, a
place that may have transcendent food or
occupy a niche in the social ecosystem,
but explains something to us about
ourselves. Our ideas on the s...

Ask Mr. Gold: Where to Eat Bugs in


L.A.
5 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: From what I read, raising


insects is far easier on the planet than
raising livestock. If I were in the mood to

54/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

raising livestock. If I were in the mood to


kill two bugs with one stone, where would
I go to eat bugs in L.A.? --Betsy,
Montrose...

Sang Yoon's Lukshon Is His Most Fully Realized Concept Yet


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We can be forgiven for surmising that something's up at Lukshon,


can't we? Because we are at a Sang Yoon restaurant, nobody has
tried to tackle us on the way to our (reserved!) table, and we are
drinking Singapore Slings or a Beaujolais-style Cana...

More Than Mere Doughnuts


5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a craving for a doughnut. I've had good
doughnuts in Los Angeles, but is there a truly great doughnut? I hate
that I can't hate on NYC doughnuts, but I had the tres leches donut at
Doughnut Plant, and that was dddd-licious! I...

Basque in Bakersfield
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I have been accused of overpraising


Bakerseld, and perhaps it is true.
Dewar's, across the street from
Bakerseld High School, is still the best
old soda fountain in the state, and even if
it didn't make the world's best nut chews
littl...

Ask Mr. Gold: Mmmmm, Doughnuts!


5 years ago | Desserts

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a craving for a


doughnut. I've had good doughnuts in Los
Angeles, but is there a truly great
doughnut? I hate that I can't hate on NYC
doughnuts, but I had the tres leches donut
at Doughnut Plant, and that was ddddlicious! I...

First Bite: Lukshon, Sang Yoon's


Latest
5 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

We can be forgiven for surmising that


something's up at Lukshon, can't we?
Because we are at a Sang Yoon restaurant,
nobody has tried to tackle us on the way
to our (reserved!) table, and we are
drinking Singapore Slings or an
Beaujolais-style Can...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

55/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Top 10 Aphrodisiac Foods for


Valentine's Day
5 years ago | Holidays

10. Oysters. Briny, slippery; rufy frills


that quiver when you ick your tongue
across them . . . yes, oysters are an
excellent source of zinc. 9. Corn dogs.
Turgid, spurting, eshy missiles prepared
by nubile high school students wearing
enor...

In Search of Saltenas
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Over the holidays, I visited my parents in northern


Virginia, where there are numerous places to get delicious Bolivian
salteas. I've lived in Los Angeles for ve years and have never seen
or heard mention of these juicy, f...

Aburiya Toranoko: Lazy Ox's Cardenas Branches Out


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The fetish object of the week? My money's on the uni goma tofu at
the new Aburiya Toranoko in Little Tokyo, which is to say a smallish
cube of rm, blackish tofu made from ground, toasted sesame seeds,
served in a shallow puddle of soy and topped...

Sun Ha Jang: Addicted to Quack


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Addicted to Quack at Sun Ha
Jang, Koreatown's Pleasure Palace of
Duck." When friends talk about the
restaurants they miss in Koreatown the
ones that never quite made the transition
when the n...

Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of Salteas,


or Discovering Bolivian-Style
Empanadas
5 years ago | Bolivian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Over the holidays, I visited


my parents in northern Virginia, where
there are numerous places to get
delicious Bolivian salteas. I've lived in
Los Angeles for ve years and have never
seen or heard mention of these juicy, f...

First Bite: Aburiya Toranoko, or Lazy


Ox's Cardenas Branches Out
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

56/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
5 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

The fetish object of the week? My


money's on the uni goma tofu at the new
Aburiya Toranoko in Little Tokyo, which
is to say a smallish cube of rm, blackish
tofu made from ground, toasted sesame
seeds, served in a shallow puddle of soy
and topped...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Super Bowl Edition,


or Where To Get BBQ For The Game
5 years ago | BBQ

Dear Mr. Gold: Can you recommend


anywhere to get takeout food for Super
Bowl Sunday? Perhaps barbecue?
Thanks! --S. Goin, Los Angeles Dear Ms.
Goin: Barbecue is a ne idea, in fact
probably the best. My in-laws favor vast
trays of jalapeo...

Mas Malo: It's All About the Chips


5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I am sitting in Mas Malo's huge beaux arts dining room, a oor


beneath the whiskey-soaked revelry of the bar Seven Grand. I am on
the outside of a satisfying organic margarita, I am watching my
young son tackle an enormous burrito ahogado, trying...

A Tasting Milestone
5 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm turning 50 next month and I'd like to go
somewhere with an outstanding tasting menu. I'm willing to splurge,
but I am not a fancy girl and prefer somewhere that's not stuffy or
where I have to wear high heels. L.M., L.A. ...

Red Medicine
5 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Red Medicine: Jordan Kahn's
Vietnamese Canteen." If you were to have
stumbled into Red Medicine this winter,
maybe late after a movie, maybe with a
reservation you booked two weeks early
on OpenTable...

First Bite: Chips, Chips Especial,


Menudo + Vegan Hangovers at Mas
Malo
6 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

I am sitting in Mas Malo's huge Beaux


Arts dining room, a oor beneath the
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

57/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Arts dining room, a oor beneath the


whiskey-soaked revelry of the bar Seven
Grand. I am on the outside of a satisfying
organic margarita, I am watching my
young son tackle an enormous burrito
ahogado, trying...

Ask Mr. Gold: Celebrate A Half


Century With A Tasting Menu
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm turning 50 next month


and I'd like to go somewhere with an
outstanding tasting menu. I'm willing to
splurge, but I am not a fancy girl and
prefer somewhere that's not stuffy or
where I have to wear high heels. --L.M.,
Los Angele...

Vertical: Having Your Food and Hearing, Too


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Do you have any recommendations for a restaurant


in the San Gabriel Valley where six people can have dinner and
actually, really hear each other talk? We need a variety of
suggestions to meet varying dietary needs (gluten-free optio...

Gaon: Suburban Korean


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Another suburban Korean restaurant? When you put it that way, I


guess we are a little obsessed with the idea of gentried Korean food.
Everybody knows the cuisine is going to hit the mainstream at some
point, but nobody has quite gured out what...

Olympic Cheonggukjang: Bean and


Nothingness
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Olympic Cheonggukjang:
Korean Soul Food That Will Take Your
Breath Away." If you are the kind of
person whose friends insist on telling you
about the Real Korean Food, you
probably have heard about O...

Ask Mr. Gold: Having Your Food &


Hearing It Too at Vertical Wine Bistro
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Do you have any


recommendations for a restaurant in the
San Gabriel Valley where six people can
have dinner and actually, really hear each
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

58/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

have dinner and actually, really hear each


other talk?? We need a variety of
suggestions to meet varying dietary needs
(gluten-free opti...

First Bite: Simon King Cooks


Suburban Korean in Pasadena at
Gaon
6 years ago | Korean Cuisine

Another suburban Korean restaurant?


When you put it that way, I guess we are a
little obsessed with the idea of gentried
Korean food. Everybody knows the
cuisine is going to hit the mainstream at
some point, but nobody has quite gured
out what...

The Frankfurt School


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Poetry is walled up in graduate school. Painting is in permanent


decline. But the creative hot dog garnish seems to be in its golden
age at the moment, and whether your taste runs toward organic
Parsi pickles, uorescent Chicago relish or cheese-...

Car-Free Eating
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What's the best neighborhood in L.A. to live in if you
don't have a car? Purely within the gastronomical interest, of course.
Sophia Lee, via Facebook Dear Ms. Lee: Although my rst impulse
was to nominate San Gabriel or Mon...

Steerage: Smoke City Market


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Smoke City Market: Barbeque,
Texas-style." If you have ever had the
misfortune of arguing about barbecue
with a Texan, you are no doubt familiar
with at least the idea of meat cookery in
its purest, ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Where To Eat & Live In


L.A. If You Don't Have A Car
6 years ago | Neighborhoods

Dear Mr. Gold: What's the best


neighborhood in L.A. to live in if you don't
have a car? Purely within the
gastronomical interest, of course. -Sophia Lee, via Facebook Dear Ms. Lee:
Although my rst impulse was to
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

59/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Although my rst impulse was to


nominate San Gabriel or Monterey...

First Bite: The Frankfurt School, or


Pasadena's New Dog Haus
6 years ago | Hot Dogs

Poetry is walled up in graduate school.


Painting is in permanent decline. But the
creative hot dog garnish seems to be in its
golden age at the moment, and whether
your taste runs toward organic Parsi
pickles, uorescent Chicago relish or
cheese-...

Many Unhappy Returns?


6 years ago

A Case of Mistaken Identity


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In last week's First Bite column, which waxed purple over french
fries at the rather too new Farmshop, we misidentied the price of
the potatoes involved. We were erroneously brought a $4.50 serving
of french fries instead of the $10.50 fried pot...

Roy Choi's "Modern Picnic"


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Asian-American avor at AFrame Tavern." If you want to understand
A-Frame, the ski chalet of a tavern that is
the latest restaurant from Kogi auteur
Roy Choi, you could do worse than to
examine the...

Ask Mr. Gold: Many Unhappy


Returns? When to Send a Dish Back
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Do you ever send food


back to the kitchen? If so, what's the
threshold of egregiousness that would
prompt you to do so? Does it matter what
company you're in? What I'm really
asking is: Would you ever send food back
while on a date?...

The Platonic Ideal


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

L.A.'s newest cult item? I nominate the French fries at the new
Farmshop in the Brentwood Country Mart, where they are arranged

60/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Farmshop in the Brentwood Country Mart, where they are arranged


like owers in an exquisite little vase, and they cost 10 dollars and 50
cents, which is a lot for a serving that is n...

Hunting Pheasant
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where do you suggest we go for a meal of pheasant?


In the Los Angeles area, please. The Melczers Dear Mr. and Mrs.
Melczer: It's odd several decades ago, pheasant was the ultimate in
luxury meats, probably because of ...

Restaurant or Butcher Shop?


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Focus on Meat: Salt's Cure,
Restaurant or Butcher Shop?" In case you
were wondering, I too am slightly
confused by Salt's Cure, which is an odd
thing considering how much time I have
lately spent in ...

[Updated] First Bite: The Platonic


Ideal, or FarmShop's French Fries Are
What Fries Should Be
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Update: Department of Corrections. In


this week's First Bite column, which
waxed rather purple over French fries at
the rather too new FarmShop, we
misidentied the price of the potatoes
involved. We were erroneously brought a
$4.50 serving of Fr...

Ask Mr. Gold: Hunting Pheasant, or


Celestino Drago's Your Man for the
Fancy Fowl
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Where do you suggest we


go for a meal of pheasant? In the Los
Angeles area, please. --The Melczers Dear
Mr. and Mrs. Melczer: It's odd -- several
decades ago, pheasant was the ultimate in
luxury meats, probably because of its
connot...

Top 10 Kinds of Bacon in My


Refrigerator This Morning
6 years ago | Bacon

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

10. Guanciale. Made by some guy in

61/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

10. Guanciale. Made by some guy in


Colorado, or so says Rosario, the curedmeat impresario at Roma Deli in
Pasadena. A nice, gamy pig cheek,
anyway, suspiciously like the ones I used
to get from Salumi Biellese on 8th Avenue
in Manhattan...

Suehiro: Little Tokyo Lunch Special


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Can you recommend a good place for lunch in Little
Tokyo? I seem to be around there a lot lately. B. Mullins, L.A. Dear
Ms. Mullins: You mean other than Lazy Ox? Well, you should try
Daikokuya for ramen, of course, if not the...

Two Cheers for Anonymity


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View various ways Jonathan Gold has


concealed his identity in Anne Fishbein's
slideshow, "Two Cheers for Anonymity:
The Many Mysterious Faces of Jonathan
Gold." Anonymity, it has long been held, is
the proper state of being for restaurant
critics,...

Ask Mr. Gold: Tokyo Lunch Special,


Going Old-School at Suehiro
6 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Can you recommend a


good place for lunch in Little Tokyo? I
seem to be around there a lot lately. --B.
Mullins, Los Angeles Dear Ms. Mullins:
You mean other than Lazy Ox? Well, you
should try Daikokuya for ramen, of
course, if not t...

An Evolved Cafe
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Los Angeles, as is well-known, is where everybody eats Italian food


in restaurants, where trattorias open on every corner, and where it is
easier to nd well-made Sardinian atbread than a decent baguette.
Downtown Culver City has somehow become...

For a Great Friday Night Out, Try Tasting Kitchen


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a group of my best friends ying in from


Alabama, and we're all staying in Santa Monica. I never go to the
Westside for anything, so I am looking for some dinner
recommendations for Friday night. Any cuisine is ne; I would...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

62/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

The 10 Best Dishes of 2010


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "The 10 Best Dishes of 2010."
CAPPUCCINO When it comes to dinner,
some of us are game for anything. But in
the mornings, still reeling from the shock
of recent consciousness, we tend to stick
to what ...

First Bite: l'Epicerie, An Evolved Cafe


6 years ago | Cafes

Los Angeles, as is well-known, is where


everybody eats Italian food in restaurants,
where trattorias open on every corner,
and where it is easier to nd well-made
Sardinian atbread than a decent
baguette. Downtown Culver City has
somehow become...

Ask Mr. Gold: A Taste of Abbot Kinney


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a group of my best


friends ying in from Alabama, and we're
all staying in Santa Monica. I never go to
the Westside for anything, so I am looking
for some dinner recommendations for
Friday night. Any cuisine is ne, I would...

25 Years of Border Grill


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is it possible that the Border Grill has been open a full 25 years? It
must the anniversary party was this week. And is it possible that
owners Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, who worked the
marriage of Mexican cuisine and New America...

Pork, Glorious Pork


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd good carnitas? I'm thinking like the
kind I'd get off the taco trucks in Oakland we loved to go to El Ojo
de Agua. Relatively close to Pasadena would be nice. Nina K. Dear
Ms. K.: You are, alas, a few...

Fusion Without the Pretension


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Daisy Mint: Aims to Please all
Lovers of Asian Food." The Los Angeles
area, it has been well-remarked, is the
capital of regional Asian cooking in

63/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

capital of regional Asian cooking in


America, where scarcely a province of
China or Korea...

First Bite: 25 Years of Border Grill, or


a Revamped Ciudad
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Is it possible that the Border Grill has


been open a full 25 years? It must -- the
anniversary party was this week. And is it
possible that owners Mary Sue Milliken
and Susan Feniger, who worked the
marriage of Mexican cuisine and New
American gri...

Ask Mr. Gold: Quelling That Carnitas


Craving at Cacao Mexicatessen
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd good


carnitas? I'm thinking like the kind I'd get
off the taco trucks in Oakland -- we loved
to go to El Ojo de Agua. Relatively close to
Pasadena would be nice. --Nina K. Dear
Ms. K.: You are, alas, a few years...

LudoBites 6.0
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Actually, this should be Last Bite. Because writing about pop-up


restaurants sometimes feels like reviewing a play whose run will be
over as LudoBites 6.0's is before the reader has a chance to catch
one of the nal performances. ...

Rehearsal-Dinner Dining
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm getting married and in dire need of a legit
rehearsal-dinner spot. My ance and I would gladly eat anywhere
you recommend, but our families' tastes are a bit more conservative
than bossam or pig ear. Any ideas for a spo...

Huge Tree Bakery


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Taiwanese Breakfast: The Tao
of You Tiao at Huge Tree Bakery." Back at
the dawn of time, when Jerry Brown was
the governor and Bad Company still ruled
the Billboard charts, my favorite
restaura...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

64/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: Wedding Bell Bonding,


or Places to Eat For Pre-flight
Consideration
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm getting married and in


dire need of a legit rehearsal-dinner spot.
My ance and I would gladly eat
anywhere you recommend, but our
families' tastes are a bit more
conservative than bossam or pig ear. Any
ideas for a spo...

First Bite: Ludobites 6.0, or Curtain's


Closed Until Next Year, Maybe
6 years ago

Actually, this should be Last Bite. Because


writing about pop-up restaurants
sometimes feels like reviewing a play
whose run will be over -- as LudoBites
6.0's is -- before the reader has a chance
to catch one of the nal performances.
Were you o...

More Than $24 Spaghetti


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In an era when chefs become famous for their foie gras cotton candy,
oxtail poutine or frog legs in begonia sauce, Scott Conant, the New
York chef who just opened Scarpetta in Beverly Hills, may be best
known for his $24 plate of spaghetti in toma...

Take a Dip
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently moved back to L.A. from the Bay Area to
pursue some kind of storytelling job. And what I want to know is
where I can nd a hot freshly carved turkey sandwich. San Francisco
has some amazing restaurants, but the thing tha...

You'd Better Like Lamb


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "You'd Better Like Lamb:
Omars Xinjiang Halal Restaurant." The
rst thing you should know about Omar's
Xinjiang Halal Restaurant is that it's
pretty far removed from what you might
think of as...

Ask Mr. Gold: Take a Dip, Or Finding a


Post-Thanksgiving Turkey Sandwich
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

65/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently moved back to


L.A. from the Bay Area to pursue some
kind of storytelling job. And what I want
to know is where I can nd a hot freshly
carved turkey sandwich. San Francisco
has some amazing restaurants, but the
thing tha...

First Bite: Scarpetta, More Than $24


Spaghetti
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

In an era when chefs become famous for


their foie gras cotton candy, oxtail
poutine or frog legs in begonia sauce,
Scott Conant, the New York chef who just
opened Scarpetta in Beverly Hills, may be
best known for his $24 plate of spaghetti
in toma...

Yes, Georgio's!
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Georgio's Cucina: Italian in
Studio City." When I was the New York
restaurant critic for Gourmet, I spent a
certain amount of time following a chef
named Gary Robins, who in the mid1990s had a reput...

Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of the


Doughnut-qua-doughnut
6 years ago | Desserts

Dear Mr. Gold: My brother wants to open


a doughnut shop that makes the best
donut in Los Angeles. I believe he has the
passion and skill to do it. In the process of
research he has been seeking the best
donut in Los Angeles and I can't say he's...

Links and Locations to Jonathan


Gold's 99 Essential Restaurants 2010
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "99 Essential Restaurants
2010."When is a restaurant not a
restaurant? It's not a rhetorical question,
actually, not this year. I really don't know.
Because just as parts of Los Angeles have
become fa...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

66/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Take the A-Frame


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Where Roy Choi goes, people will follow this has been wellestablished. Because if the legions of the hungry are willing to follow
his Kogi trucks when they alight in deserted motel parking lots or
alongside Orange County topless clubs, it...

Ou Est Le Cassoulet a L.A.?


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My wife had a great cassoulet in Paris several years
ago. Is there a place in Southern California that has a real French
cassoulet? I know this is the time of year they make it. Jim Nakano,
Glendora Dear Mr. Nakano: The Donut...

Look, Up in the Sky!


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Wolfgang Puck's WP24: Or
Look, Up in the Sky!" WP24 so named
because it is Wolfgang Puck's 24th
restaurant? Is it because the building sits
around the corner from Staples Center,
where Kobe Bryant we...

Ask Mr. Gold: Ou Est Le Cassoulet


L.A.?
6 years ago | French Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: My wife had a great


cassoulet in Paris several years ago. Is
there a place in Southern California that
has a real French cassoulet? I know this is
the time of year they make it. --Jim
Nakano, Glendora Dear Mr. Nakano: The
Donut Man!...

First Bite: Take the A-Frame, or Roy


Choi Turns Toward Hawaii
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Where Roy Choi goes, people will follow - this has been well-established. Because
if the legions of the hungry are willing to
follow his Kogi trucks when they alight in
deserted motel parking lots or alongside
Orange County topless clubs, it stan...

Fun at The Royce with the Pasadena


Star-News
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

67/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago | Food News

We are no stranger to restaurant hype;


really we're not. We tend to generate a bit
of it ourselves. So I hope you will believe
us when we say that we have never quite
seen anything like the front page of
today's Pasadena Star-News, which was
entir...

A Food-Writing Misstep of Which I've


Been Guilty Myself, but Could We All
Agree To Stop Now, Please?
6 years ago | Food in the Media

There are many kinds of food in the


world, as Frances the Badger once said,
and they all taste different ways. Some of
these foods are more or less spherical in
nature. And many of these spheres, as we
all know, may reasonably be described as
ball...

A Movable Beast: L.A. Weekly's 99


Essential Restaurants
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "99 Essential Restaurants
2010."When is a restaurant not a
restaurant? It's not a rhetorical question,
actually, not this year. I really don't know.
Because just as parts of Los Angeles have
become fa...

Gastropub Sans the Pub


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Before it became a reconstructionist Cuban restaurant, before it


moved to Melrose from Pasadena, Xiomara began as a sleekly
modern California bistro, rmly grounded in modern French
cooking. Now that Nuevo Latino cuisine has transformed into what...

Cooking With the Critic


6 years ago

Dan Dan Mian


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Dan dan mian at Chuan Yu
Noodle Town: Controversial Sichuan
Street Food." Dan dan mian may be one of
the most controversial entries in the
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

68/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

the most controversial entries in the


Chinese culinary canon, a simple
preparation, the classic Si...

First Bite: Gastropub Sans the Pub, or


Xiomara Reconsidered
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Before it became a reconstructionist


Cuban restaurant, before it moved to
Melrose from Pasadena, Xiomara began
as a sleekly modern California bistro,
rmly grounded in modern French
cooking. Now that Nuevo Latino cuisine
has transformed into what...

Ask Mr. Gold: Cooking With the


Critic, Or The Top 10 Most Battered
Cookbooks in Jonathan Gold's
Kitchen
6 years ago | Cookbooks

Dear Mr. Gold: Do you always eat out? Do


you ever eat at home? Do you have any
cookbooks that you use a great deal? Just
curious. Maggs, Mar Vista Dear Maggs:
Actually, I cook kind of a lot. A weird
amount. I'm the guy who cooks red beans
a...

An Open Letter to Paula Deen


6 years ago | Food Personalities

Dear Paula Deen: When I heard Tuesday that you had been named
Grand Marshal of the 2011 Rose Parade, my reaction was not a pretty
one. And while I wasn't expecting the email response I gave Janette
Williams, the Pasadena Star-News reporter, to be ...

Kid-Friendly Tacos
6 years ago

New Location
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The original Pal Cabron was one of those pop-culture miracles we


have come to expect in Los Angeles, a Huntington Park sandwich
shop specializing in overstuffed versions of Puebla's beloved
cemitas, run by a young Oaxacan woman, Bricia Lopez, and ...

Ode to the Slimy Hagfish


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's

69/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Jae Bu Do: Koreatown's
Extreme Seafood Grill." Some restaurants
you leave smiling. Other restaurants you
leave burning with the fury of a thousand
suns. But after an evening at Jae Bu Do, a
seafood g...

Ask Mr. Gold: Kid-Friendly Tacos On


Four Wheels, No Later Than 7 p.m.
6 years ago | Kids in L.A.

Dear Mr. Gold: As a mother of two kids


young enough to still like noodles but old
enough to make fun of Justin Bieber, I
nd myself in search of a kid-friendly
taco truck. Good old-school tacos: no
fusion, no Kogi lines. Anywhere from
Venice to P...

First Bite: New Location, Same Old


Pal Cabron
6 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

The original Pal Cabron was one of those


pop-culture miracles we have come to
expect in Los Angeles, a Huntington Park
sandwich shop specializing in overstuffed
versions of Puebla's beloved cemitas, run
by a young Oaxacan woman, Bricia
Lopez, and ...

Seoul Octopus Day + The Relative


Joys of Octopus Heads
6 years ago | Food News

How many angels can dance on the head


of a pin? And how many octopus heads
are probably as many as you should eat in
a day? The answer to the rst question, of
course, belongs to the philosophers and
the theologians. The second, at least
accordin...

Best French Dip (Thick-Gravy


Division): Jolly Jug
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Everybody knows who makes the best


French dip in town. It's Cole's, which
serves a chopped-and-channeled version
of the venerable sandwich in L.A.'s oldest
restaurant. Or it's Philippe's, the sawdustoored diner that also claims to have
invented...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

70/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

invented...

Shanghai Bamboo House: Ham w/


Yam
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Of all the dishes I loved at Green Village, a


restaurant that seemed to move locations
more often than a Kogi truck, the one I
always tried to order was called
something like Doufu w/ Wild Greens, a
cold appetizer of minutely diced dried
bean curd...

Our Man in Tijuana


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The ceilings are low, the expectations are high, and the Slayer-loud
salsa grooves are making the mezcal tremble in its glass. The wines
on the blackboard are all from Baja, mostly from the Guadalupe
Valley area, which may be the great wine area c...

Lasagna To Go?
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: This weekend, we're having some fellow parents over
for a playdate with our 2-year-olds, and then dinner. With all that 2year-old energy going on, I'm thinking it might be a good idea to buy
a lasagna, so I don't have to slave away...

Ask Mr. Gold: Lasagna to Go? Try the


"Cupcakes" from Heirloom L.A.
6 years ago | Desserts

Dear Mr. Gold: This weekend, we're


having some fellow parents over for a
playdate with our 2-year-olds, and then
dinner. With all that 2-year-old energy
going on, I'm thinking it might be a good
idea to buy a lasagna, so I don't have to
slave away...

First Bite: Javier Plascencia, Our Man


in Tijuana
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

The ceilings are low, the expectations are


high, and the Slayer-loud salsa grooves
are making the mezcal tremble in its
glass. The wines on the blackboard are all
from Baja, mostly from the Guadalupe
Valley area, which may be the great wine
area c...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

71/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

[Updated, Again] San Gabriel Mayor


Arrested: Or, More Fun With Xiao
Long Bao
6 years ago | Food News

Update: Do we have breaking news on the


infamous soup-dumpling incident? I'm
afraid to say, we do not. The vinegar has
been long mopped from the oor, San
Gabriel mayor Albert Y.M. Huang's
resignation is yesterday's news, and the
lawyers still hu...

Best Simulacrum of a Simulacrum


(1938): Lawry's the Prime Rib
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Like any good back lot, greater Los


Angeles may be most like itself where it
resembles anywhere else, from the
Pasadena backstreets that have spent a
century standing in for suburban
Connecticut, to the jungly corners of
Grifth Park, to the Span...

Monday Taco Report: El Super


Numero Uno, or Carnicera, Tacos +
They'll Make Your Keys
6 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

As you speed along Valley Boulevard


between Alhambra and downtown, you
may notice the signs for what seems like a
supremely condent establishment, El
Super Numero Uno, a meat specialist with
a high regard for its product. And as you
screech off ...

Best High-Art Patio: Michael's


6 years ago | Best of L.A.

There was a time when art in restaurants


signied more than the $3,000 ceramic
dildo for sale at the gift shop of Bazaar.
We have fond memories of the downtown
art bar dominated by John Chamberlain's
crumpled-automobile sculpture, the big
Jonatha...

Best Wartime Cookbook: M.F.K.


Fisher's How to Cook a Wolf
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

The late 1930s and early 1940s were kind


of a grim time in Southern California. The
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

72/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Great Depression hit Los Angeles as hard


as it hit practically anywhere in the
country, and the vast inux of penniless
retirees from cold states put an unusual
b...

Downtown Surprise
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm hoping you can recommend a place to hold a
surprise party. I'm nding this a bit hard to accomplish I live in
Ohio and I don't know L.A. that well. I'm considering Bottega Louie
and Church & State. There will be ...

Offal Time
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Meat-on-Meat Crime at
Waterloo & City." It is a grand time to be
alive, fellow offalians, a year when a
young man with a dream in his heart and
a Lipitor in his pocket can gorge himself
silly on spar...

Best Noir Breakfast (1940s): Nick's


Caf
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Before yuzu vinaigrettes, before acai


margaritas, before pigs whose lineage is
better-traced than the Queen of
England's, there was ham and eggs, which
so powerfully signied contentment in
Los Angeles that a Depression-era
political movement was...

Best Speakeasy: The Varnish


6 years ago | Bars

The Varnish isn't the obscurest of bars; far


from it. You'll nd no secret entrance,
obscure protocol or whiff of illegality; you
don't have to walk through a coat closet
or trip down the stairs off an alley. But
even on a block crowded with bars...

Ask Mr. Gold: Downtown Surprise, or


At the intersection of Bratwurst and
Dunkelweizen
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm hoping you can


recommend a place to hold a surprise
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

73/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

party. I'm nding this a bit hard to


accomplish - I live in Ohio and I don't
know L.A. that well. I'm considering
Bottega Louie and Church & State. There
will be about 20 of u...

Best Jellied Consomm (1919): Musso


& Frank Grill
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Musso & Frank Grill, although it is


perhaps most famous for serving steaks
and impeccable martinis to character
actors, is a rare conservatory of early20th-century American cooking, and if
the EPA cared as much about threatened
dishes as it does ...

Best Horsey Cuisine (1922): The


Derby
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Is it the cheese bread? Is it the baconwrapped let mignons? Is it the thrilling


sensation you get when a waitress asks if
you want the Daily Double, minutes
before bringing you what looks like a
glass Big Gulp cup lled with bourbon? Is
it the...

Happy National Taco Day + 5 Very


Fine Tacos
6 years ago | Tacos

Is it National Taco Day today? We regret


to inform you, it is. There are e-cards for
it and everything. At Del Taco, National
Taco Day is probably as holy as the Feast
of the Epiphany, but with more tacos. At
Taco Bell - expect funny hats and line...

Best Chocolate Milk: Norwalk Dairy


6 years ago | Best of L.A.

As much as our daydreams may run


toward the coffee milk you nd in Rhode
Island and the root-beer milk popular in
the greater Wichita area, we have nothing
against chocolate milk, really we don't.
The sticky concoctions in most
supermarket dairy ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Over the Weekend: Pavement, Sonic


Youth, No Age at the Hollywood Bowl,

74/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Youth, No Age at the Hollywood Bowl,


reviewed by Pulitzer-Prize winner
Jonathan Gold!
6 years ago | Last Night

Do the gods of programming have a sense


of humor? Because Thursday night, three
massive shows split the already slender
aging art-rock demographic with almost
surgical precision, with the Jon Spencer
Blues Explosion pulling in the postalcoholic n...

Test Run
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Just the way we like it, really, a restaurant that doesn't really exist
stuffed like pureed huitlacoche into a favorite restaurant that does,
complete with a mystic mezcalero pushing liquor, Piedra Almas
Mezcal, that you couldn't buy even if you w...

All in the Family


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: We only have one night in town, but we were hoping
to do an izakaya crawl. Suggestions? Not in Torrance, please. If we've
drunk as much as we hope to drink, it's a bit far to drive. Lisa, San
Francisco Dear Lisa: I know that ...

Tinga: New-Wave Tacos


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Tinga's New Wave Tacos." A
taco, it could be argued, is the basic unit
of consumption in Southern California,
the parcel of corn and spice and animal
whose masters line our boulevards, a
food whose r...

Ask Mr. Gold: All in the Family, or


Izakaya's Korean Brethren
6 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: We only have one night in


town, but we were hoping to do an
izakaya crawl. Suggestions? Not in
Torrance, please. If we've drunk as much
as we hope to drink, it's a bit far to drive. -Lisa, San Francisco Dear Lisa: I know
that there...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

First Bite: Test Run, or Supper


Liberation Front & Pablo Moix Invade

75/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Liberation Front & Pablo Moix Invade


Guelaguetza
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Just the way we like it, really, a restaurant


that doesn't really exist stuffed like
pureed huitlacoche into a favorite
restaurant that does, complete with a
mystic mezcalero pushing liquor, Piedra
Almas Mezcal, that you couldn't buy even
if you w...

Red O: Back to Bayless


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Red O: Bringing Mexican to
L.A., With Mixed Results." The rst thing
you will see if you happen by Red O is the
bouncer, or "door host," a tall, elegantly
dressed man with the build of an NFL
corner...

This Little Piggy Goes to Market


6 years ago

Obika: When Not in Rome ...


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Rome, Obik is a mozzarella bar on Piazza di Firenze, an oddly


modern place not far from the Pantheon that reluctantly serves as a
tourist canteen during the day and then as a frosty, rather exclusive
wine bar late at night. There has al...

First Bite: Obika's Mozzarella Bar, or


When Not In Rome
6 years ago | Italian Cuisine

In Rome, Obika is a mozzarella bar on


Piazza di Firenze, an oddly modern place
not far from the Pantheon that reluctantly
serves as a tourist canteen during the day
and then as a frosty, rather exclusive wine
bar late at night. There has always be...

Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of the Best


Pork in the San Gabriel Valley
6 years ago | Pork

Dear Mr. Gold: On your recommendation,


I frequent Alexander's Prime Meats in San
Gabriel for beef, lamb and their great
sausages. But to me, the cuts of pork there
don't seem much better than what you
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

76/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

can nd at the supermarket. Where can I


get h...

Top 10 Food Words We Love


6 years ago | Food News

1. Strozzapreti: Bulky, twisty, hand-rolled


pasta from central Italy whose name
translates as "priest strangler.'' Allegedly a
useful noodle in the arsenal of abused
altar boys...

Alcazar: An Old Friend


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For most of the decade, there may have been no more pleasant place
in Los Angeles to eat Middle Eastern food than in Alcazar's shaded
patio, a balmy place scented with hookah smoke, garlic and the hot
sajj bread baking on its grill. The restaurant...

Langer's: the Last Supper


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I hope you are in good health. But if the end were
near, which restaurant would you let cater your funeral? (Hopefully
Chinese.) Richard Kurzer, L.A. Dear Mr. Kurzer: Preferably Chinese?
My corpse isn't cold yet, and you're a...

Time Capsule: The Yard


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "The Yard: Small, Happy Bar is
the Embodiment of the Westside & Comes
with 'Top Chef' Pedigree." If the new L.A.
restaurant has a secret blueprint, it
probably looks a lot like the Yard, a small,
happ...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Last Supper, Dim


Sum, Or... ?
6 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I hope you are in good


health. But if the end were near, which
restaurant would you let cater your
funeral? (Hopefully Chinese.) --Richard
Kurzer, L.A. Dear Mr. Kurzer: Preferably
Chinese? My corpse isn't cold yet, and
you're alread...

First Bite: Alcazar is Back, Serving


Crunchy Boreg in Encino
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

77/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

For most of the decade, there may have


been no more pleasant place in Los
Angeles to eat Middle Eastern food than
in Alcazar's shaded patio, a balmy place
scented with hookah smoke, garlic, and
the hot sajj bread baking on its grill. The
restauran...

Half a Dozen of Each


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Did we agree to stop calling them gastropubs? Very well, they're no


longer gastropubs. But what then do you call the small, food-serving
ale joints around town, differing from one another less in intent than
in degree of devotion to the hops-lover...

Beef Roll, or Soup Dumplings?


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My husband and I are taking a long weekend in Los
Angeles in a few days. We're going to 101 Noodle Express for the beef
roll. How are their dumplings? Should we skip them there and go to
Din Tai Fung instead for Xiao Long Bao? &mdas...

Daglas Drive-in: Hamburger Stand By


Me
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Daglas Drive-in: Home of the
West Valley, Greco-American French Fry."
I was going to write about Korean grilledbeef intestines this week, really I was;
intestines so smoky and crunchy that if
somebo...

First Bite: Half a Dozen of Each, or


Mix & Match at The Six
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Did we agree to stop calling them


gastropubs? Very well, they're no longer
gastropubs. But what then do you call the
small, food-serving ale joints around
town, differing from one another less in
intent than in degree of devotion to the
hops-lover...

Ask Mr. Gold: Beef Roll, or Soup


Dumplings? Why Argue? Have Both
6 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: My husband and I are


taking a long weekend in Los Angeles in a
few days. We're going to 101 Noodle

78/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

few days. We're going to 101 Noodle


Express for the beef roll. How are their
dumplings? Should we skip them there
and go to Din Tai Fung instead for Xiao
Long Bao? --Car...

Baek Hwa Jung: Kogi's Choice


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Kogi's Choice: Roy Choi's
Favorite Korean Cafe, Baek Hwa Jung." If
you ask Kogi czar Roy Choi to name a
favorite restaurant, he tends to get shy on
you, occasionally praising the dining
room he visit...

Looks Fusion, Cooks Orthodox


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you've eaten around and in the San Gabriel Valley, you've probably
become accustomed to the markers of an overly ambitious Asianfusion restaurant: the couples picking listlessly at their sautedseafood salads, the bros pounding down ex...

Eating the Obvious


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a dear friend who spends a lot of time in
Beijing and loves Chinese food. Is there a place downtown or in
Chinatown that has excellent cuisine from that region? I want him to
have a good meal! B., Echo Park Dear B.: Th...

Ask Mr. Gold: Eating the Obvious, or


Chinese in Downtown
6 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a dear friend who


spends a lot of time in Beijing and loves
Chinese food. Is there a place downtown
or in Chinatown that has excellent cuisine
from that region? I want him to have a
good meal! --B., Echo Park Dear B.: There
a...

First Bite: Looks Fusion, Cooks


Orthodox, or Dip's Grill in Alhambra
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

If you've eaten around and in the San


Gabriel Valley, you've probably become
accustomed to the markers of an overly
ambitious Asian-fusion restaurant, the
couples picking listlessly at their sautedseafood salads, and bros pounding down
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

79/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

ex...

Fried Cantonese
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Traditional Cantonese cuisine doesn't do much deepfrying, right? I mean, crispy-fried chicken with oyster sauce isn't
exactly typical. I'm way more familiar with Northern Chinese food,
since I lived in Beijing for a while, but it s...

Salt's Cure: Promising Start


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is it a bit early to consider Salt's Cure? I suspect it might be the


bare, meat-intensive bistro hasn't even started serving dinner yet.
The tiny deli counter is stocked with things like strong lamb-liver
pt and potted duck ...

Test Kitchen: Never-Ending


Experiment
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Test Kitchen: A Club That
Features Food Instead of Music." The
buzz in L.A. dining, as we've said, belongs
to restaurants that don't technically exist:
the pop-ups, roving trucks, temporary
residenci...

Ask Mr. Gold: Fried Cantonese, A


Cuisine That's More Stir-Fry
6 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Traditional Cantonese


cuisine doesn't do much deep-frying,
right? I mean, crispy-fried chicken with
oyster sauce isn't exactly typical. I'm way
more familiar with Northern Chinese
food, since I lived in Beijing for a while,
but it s...

First Bite: Promising Start, Salt's


Cure
6 years ago | Bacon

Is it a bit early to consider Salt's Cure? I


suspect it might be -- the bare, meatintensive bistro hasn't even started
serving dinner yet. The tiny deli counter is
stocked with things like strong lamb-liver
pt and potted duck with ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Tats and Prawns

80/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Tats and Prawns


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The top-level Dining Deck of the new Santa Monica Place mall
seems almost custom-designed to make native Angelenos grumpy.
The redesign scooped out all that was pleasant about the old mall,
one of Frank Gehry's breakthrough projects, with all the ...

LudoWines
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What kind of wine should I bring to LudoBites? I was
thinking an Alsatian Riesling might be nice, but it's hard to nd a
bottle of the younger grand crus, and I can't afford the older ones. Do
you have any suggestions for wines I c...

Meat as Sculpture
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Burger Porn: Drippy, Bloody &
Sticky." When I lived in New York not long
ago, it was a city without a hamburger, a
metropolis that made me yearn for an InN-Out Double-Double, for a Pie 'n Burger,
fo...

First Bite: Tats and Prawns, Xino by


the Bay
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

The top-level Dining Deck of the new


Santa Monica Place mall seems almost
custom-designed to make native
Angelenos grumpy. The redesign scooped
out all that was pleasant about the old
mall, one of Frank Gehry's breakthrough
projects, with all the ...

Ask Mr. Gold: LudoWines, What to


Drink on the Fly with the Lefebvres
6 years ago | Pop-up Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: What kind of wine should I


bring to LudoBites? I was thinking an
Alsatian Riesling might be nice, but it's
hard to nd a bottle of the younger grand
crus, and I can't afford the older ones. Do
you have any suggestions for wines I c...

Where There's Smoke, There's Fuego


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you recommend a rst-date restaurant in or


around Long Beach? I might be willing to venture farther, but I
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

81/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

around Long Beach? I might be willing to venture farther, but I


would prefer to remain as close to the Belmont Shore area as
possible. Sherrick B., Long Beach Dear Mr. B.: The...

Maximum Intelligentsia
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is it possible to get a caffeine contact high? Because when you walk


into the newest Intelligentsia, in a stripped, high-ceilinged storefront
hard by the Foot Locker in Old Town Pasadena, you start to get
jittery even before you step up to the rec...

Dak Dak Galbi


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Korean Barbecue at
Choonchun Dakgalbi." If the cattle-car
conditions and edgy vibe caused you to
ee last year's big Korean barbecue cookoff, you may have been pleased by the
relative mellowness of...

First Bite: Maximum Intelligentsia in


Pasadena
6 years ago | Coffee

And you thought the coffee and the


architecture and the hep baristas were
enough, right? Is it possible to get a
caffeine contact high? Because when you
walk into the newest Intelligentsia, in a
stripped, high-ceilinged storefront hard
by the Foot...

Ask Mr. Gold: Where There's Smoke,


There's Fuego
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you recommend a


rst-date restaurant in or around Long
Beach? I might be willing to venture
farther, but I would prefer to remain as
close to the Belmont Shores area as
possible. --Sherrick B., Long Beach Dear
Mr. B.: The Lon...

Quan Mien Trung: Not Your Mother's


Noodle Soup
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When you've lost the address of a


barbecue joint, you look for a chugging
column of smoke. When you are having
trouble picking out Quan Mien Trung
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

82/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

trouble picking out Quan Mien Trung


from the endless procession of mini-mall
restaurants that inhabit its corner of
Rosemead, you also f...

Rivera: Burrito on the Rocks, Salt


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Great Mexican food and yummy, salty margaritas: I
nd, in L.A., it is very hard to reconcile these two seemingly wellmatched priorities. Either the food stinks and the drinks rock, or vice
versa. Tons of great Mexican restaurants ...

There Will Always Be a Caramel Souffle


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

As the months turn, stone fruit ripens, and the Dodgers suffer
another round of midsummer blues, so too does LudoBites return to
Gram & Papa's, the garmento lunch counter that hosted the pop-up
restaurant's greatest success. Krissy Lefebvre roams ...

First Bite: There Will Always Be a


Caramel Souffl, or Ludobites 5.0
and Beyond
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

As the months turn, stone fruit ripens,


and the Dodgers suffer another round of
midsummer blues, so too does LudoBites
return to Gram & Papa's, the garmento
lunch counter that hosted the pop-up
restaurant's greatest success. Krissy
Lefebvre roams ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Burrito On the Rocks,


Salt
6 years ago | Food & Drink Pairings

Dear Mr. Gold: Great Mexican food and


yummy, salty margaritas: I nd, in L.A., it
is very hard to reconcile these two
seemingly well-matched priorities. Either
the food stinks and the drinks rock, or
vice versa. Tons of great Mexican
restaurants ...

A Word About the Chains


6 years ago

More Room for the Ripper


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Joe Fabrocini is a scholar of the hot dog, an expert on the dozens of


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

83/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Joe Fabrocini is a scholar of the hot dog, an expert on the dozens of


traditions that make up the American frankfurter diaspora. When it
is imperative to explore the differences between a Carolina slaw dog
and a North Jersey Italian hot dog, a Bal...

Cold as a Kudzu Vine in Winter


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is there anything more refreshing than


naengmyon on a blistering summer day?
Because if anything can reduce ambient
body heat more efciently than a bowl of
the cold noodle soup at Koreatown's Yu
Chun Chic Naeng Myun, medical science
has yet to d...

First Bite: More Room For the Ripper - A New and Improved Fab Hot Dogs
6 years ago | Hot Dogs

Joe Fabrocini is a scholar of the hot dog,


an expert on the dozens of traditions that
make up the American frankfurter
diaspora. When it is imperative to explore
the differences between a Carolina slaw
dog and a North Jersey Italian hot dog, a
Bal...

Ask Mr. Gold: A Word About the


Chains (No)
6 years ago | Fast Food

Dear Mr. Gold: How do you feel about


chain restaurants in Los Angeles? Are
there any that you nd satisfying? Are
there lessons to be learned from large
corporate feeding troughs? --Daniela G.,
Los Angeles Dear Ms. G.: Do I go to chain
restaurant...

Best Bibimbap: Okay, Maybe Not the


Best, or The Happiness of Cham
6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Bibimbap was 2003's favorite Dish of the


Future, an amalgam of meat, various
vegetables and egg tossed together with
hot rice and Korean chile paste, an
innitely adaptable formula killed by
venal entrepreneurs, both in Los Angeles
and in Seoul, ...

Izakaya Fu-ga: the Accidental Bar


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

84/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The new Izakaya Fu-ga is one of those restaurants best stumbled


into by accident. If you are actively looking for it, you will circle the
block several times before you nd the hidden entrance. If you are
walking toward the more obvious pleasures...

Jinya: Ramen Freaks and Noodle


Geeks
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Ramen Freaks and Noodle
Geeks: Get Schooled in the Finer Points of
Broth." Life is too eeting, as we have
noted, to squander much of it arguing
barbecue with Texans, beef noodles with
Taiwanese or ...

Hot Weather, Cold Noodles


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: So much for livable temperatures in L.A. Given this
sudden hideous heat wave, is there any place you'd suggest for cold
noodles, preferably with a just-because-I'm-a-white-girl-doesn'tmean-I-want-bland-food option? I'm assuming SGV...

First Bite: The Accidental Bar, or


Discovering Fu-ga in Little Tokyo
6 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

The new Fu-ga is one of those restaurants


best stumbled into by accident. If you are
actively looking for it, you will circle the
block several times before you nd the
hidden entrance. If you are walking
toward the more obvious pleasures of
Sueh...

Ask Mr. Gold: Hot Weather, Cold


Noodles
6 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: So much for livable


temperatures in Los Angeles. Given this
sudden hideous heat wave, is there any
place you'd suggest for cold noodles,
preferably with a just-because-I'm-awhite-girl-doesn't-mean-I-want-blandfood option? I'm assu...

Best Bnh M: Buu Dien in Chinatown


6 years ago | Best of L.A.

We have, we think, followed the evolution


of the Vietnamese sandwiches called
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

85/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

of the Vietnamese sandwiches called


bnh m throughout their evolution in
California, from the mingy sandwiches
stacked like cordwood at the earliest
delis, through the specialist phase, and ...

Pho Tacos?
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A journey through Vietnam, I am told, is empty without a visit to Hoi


An, a port city in the middle of the country famous for the beauty of
its old town. And a visit to Hoi An is without meaning unless it
includes a bowl or three of cao...

Maison Akira: Tour de Fusion


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Are there still restaurants serving French-Japanese


food in Los Angeles, along the lines of the defunct Grill Lyon, C'est
Fan Fan or Caf Blanc? Besides the Chayas, of course. And I know
about Chinois. Kevin Dear Kevin...

Siam Sunset: The Thaiest Thai in Thai


Town
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Siam Sunset: The Thaiest Thai Food in
Thaitown" slideshow. It is one of the
paradoxes of Siam Sunset that while it
resembles any run-down motel coffee
shop in Arizona, it may also be the most
Thai of any restau...

First Bite: Pho Tacos? Yep, Pho Tacos


at Xoia in Echo Park
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

A journey through Vietnam, I am told, is


empty without a visit to Hoi An, a port
city in the middle of the country famous
for the beauty of its old town. And a visit
to Hoi An is without meaning unless it
includes a bowl or three of cao...

Ask Mr. Gold: Tour de Fusion, or


Maison Akira, a Blast From our
Franco-Japanese Past
6 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: Are there still restaurants


serving French-Japanese food in Los
Angeles, along the lines of the defunct
Grill Lyon, C'est Fan Fan or Cafe Blanc.
Besides the Chayas, of course. And I know
about Chinois. --Kevin Dear Kevin: It
wasn't ...

86/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

wasn't ...

Waterloo & City: Virtuosity and Beer


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For the last several months, no soap opera in town has been quite so
compelling as that surrounding Waterloo & City, a restaurant named
for a London tube line, planned to ll the space vacated by a coffee
shop in a part of Culver City as yet unma...

Oh, To Eat in England


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was married in Great Britain, and every year around
my anniversary I crave good old-fashioned British cuisine. I'm
talking a nice Yorkshire pudding or beef Wellington, and a really
good trie. Where in L.A. can I go to eat Britis...

La Cevicheria: Blood and Clams


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Ceviche to Die For at La
Cevicheria." Have you tasted bloody
clams? Because they really are worth
eating chewy, plump things about the
size of a half-dollar, oozing dark juices
from inside th...

Ask Mr. Gold: Oh, To Eat in England;


or as Near as Los Angeles Will Allow
6 years ago | British Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I was married in Great


Britain, and every year around my
anniversary I crave good old-fashioned
British cuisine. I'm talking a nice
Yorkshire pudding or beef Wellington,
and a really good trie. Where in L.A. can
I go to eat Britis...

Ask Mr. Gold: Celebrate Your 50th


With Michael Voltaggio, While You
Still Can
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: In the downright


necessary category: Where in L.A. should
I go for my 50th birthday next month?
The family wants something "special.'' -Betsy, Montrose Dear Betsy: A
momentous occasion! And probably one
that should be celebrated wi...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

87/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Guelaguetza
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Maybe you've been running off to new restaurants all this week I
hear Xoia is pretty good. I've been one of the wretched minions
tearing himself out of bed at 6 every morning, brushing his teeth
with ale and hauling down to the local bar f...

Landmark Birthday
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: In the downright necessary category: Where in L.A.


should I go for my 50th birthday next month? The family wants
something "special.'' Betsy, Montrose Dear Betsy: A momentous
occasion! And probably one that should be celebrat...

Eva: Intimate Bistro, Epic Meals


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Eva: Intimate Bistro Serves
Epic Meals at Regular Prices." We are, it
seems, in the middle of our fried-chicken
summer, the hot season of wings and
thighs and breasts, a year when the
tawny-crusted b...

Best Barbecue
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: So okay, not to be like everybody else who does this,
but ... it's my wife's birthday, and we gotta get a big bunch of
barbecue Southern American, not Southern Korean for a group
of about 10. There are a lot of barbe...

Mangiare in Famiglia
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are enough of a meathead to have made the pilgrimage to


Panzano, home to Dario Cecchini, the mad butcher of Chianti, you
probably have at least entertained the thought of visiting Ofcina
della Bistecca, the weekend restaurant above the bu...

Darby's Last Stand


6 years ago

Weenies and Wings Fit for a Prince


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Weenies and Wings Fit For a
Prince: Home-Style Muslim Food at Barn

88/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Prince: Home-Style Muslim Food at Barn


Rau." In a North Hollywood mini-mall,
sharing a parking lot with a Michoacanstyle taqueria and a Mexican supermarket
famous for its...

Ask Mr. Gold: Best BBQ, or Sunshine


on a Gloomy Day
6 years ago | BBQ

Dear Mr. Gold: So okay, not to be like


everybody else who does this, but... It's
my wife's birthday, and we gotta get a big
bunch of barbecue - Southern American,
not Southern Korean - for a group of
10ish. There are a lot of barbecue
restaurants ...

Shake 'n' Bake?


6 years ago

Selecao Brasileira
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Anybody who has internalized the concept of Maximal Meat has


probably stopped by a Brazilian-style rodizio restaurant at one time
or another, an establishment that will serve you bits of barbecued
cow esh, sliced off of menacing-looking skewers,...

Our Way or the Autostrade


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Terroni: No Substitutions,
Southern ItalianStyle." If I were
associated with Terroni, I'd probably be
getting pretty mad about now. Because
while the restaurants older locations are
famous in ...

Udon: The Second Best Japanese


Movie Ever Made
6 years ago | Film and TV

When I rst saw Udon, the 2006 lm


about a failed comedian who nds
happiness reviewing noodle shops back
in his home prefecture in Japan, I was
entranced enough by the endless,
steaming bowls of noodles to watch it two
times in a row on the ti...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: Shake n' Bake, or When

89/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: Shake n' Bake, or When


is it Cool to Press the Chef's Flesh?
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was at a restaurant last


night, and when the chef made his rounds
after dinner, I sort of instinctively stuck
out my hand. He shook it but seemed to
hesitate. Is there a protocol about this?
Because I came down with a slight cold ...

After Topolobampo
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

As you cruise down Melrose toward the Haute-Skateboard District,


Red O looms up like a nightclub out of a post-apocalyptic gangster
movie, a severe bunker guarded by a phalanx of unsmiling bouncers,
an icy sea of blondes and once you get i...

Three Dog Night


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Slaw Dogs." On the second
day of the Weekly's L.A. Weekend a
couple of weeks ago, three of the greatest
hot dog minds in Los Angeles gathered to
discuss the ins and outs of encased meats,
the many, m...

Ask Mr. Gold: Water and Oil, Meat


and Vegetarian Mixing it up at Lazy
Ox
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: My co-worker's birthday is


Monday, and to celebrate she wants a
steak dinner. And she wants me to choose
the restaurant. Which is an unusual kind
of cruel, since I'm a vegetarian. Help?
Something on the east side of town is
preferre...

Best Pigs' Ear: The Lazy Ox Canteen


6 years ago | Best of L.A.

Pigs' ear is this year's most fashionable


meat, a staple not just in Sichuan cold
cases but in Thai restaurants and French
bistros, meaty taverns and chic wine bars.
If you are planning on opening a modern
gastropub without pigs' ear on the menu,
...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Mission 261 Returns: Once Smitten, Twice ... ?

90/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Mission 261 Returns: Once Smitten, Twice ... ?


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When it opened, Mission 261 was among the most ambitious Chinese
restaurants ever to hit California, a sprawling, sweetly old-fashioned
seafood palace carved out of San Gabriel's old city hall. Some of the
banquet rooms were cavernous and featured...

Alone Again!
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a new child and haven't been out with the wife
in more than a year! Where to go? Paul, L.A. Dear Paul: If what
you're asking is "Where should we go on our rst night of freedom?,''
you should probably make a reservati...

Chego: Outside Inside


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Outside Inside, or Kogi's Roy
Choi Goes all Strip Mall with Chego." If
you should nd yourself in Hilo around
noon, you could do worse than to stop by
Caf 100, an ancient lunch counter with ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Alone Again! The Kid is


Finally Old Enough for a Babysitter.
Where to Celebrate?
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a new child, and


haven't been out with the wife in more
than a year! Where to go? --Paul, Los
Angeles Dear Paul: If what you're asking
is "where should we go on our rst night
of freedom,'' you should probably make a
reserva...

No More Celestial Nights


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you keep up with the online food world in Los Angeles, you have
probably at one point stumbled across Starry Kitchen, the pan-Asian
proto-restaurant of Nguyen and "Kitchen Ninja'' Thi Tran, which
popped in and out of existence in the couple's l...

Stranded at (or Near) LAX?


6 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: I am meeting a relative at


LAX on a night when the Encounter
restaurant is closed. Is there something
nearby that you can recommend? It could
be for drinks, some decent food, or
preferably both. Thomas, L.A. Dear

91/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

preferably both. Thomas, L.A. Dear


Thomas: Some...

Ask Mr. Gold: Stranded At (Or Near)


LAX? Head To Mariscos Chente
6 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: I am meeting a relative at


LAX on a night when the Encounter
restaurant is closed. Is there something
nearby that you can recommend? It could
be for drinks, some decent food, or
preferably both. --Thomas, Los Angeles
Dear Thomas: So...

The Thai Hamburger: From Jazz's


Lunchbox To Jitlada's Off-menu
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

For months, rumors have been rocketing


around Tweetertown about the
phenomenon referred to obliquely as a
"Thai hamburger,'' a gooey, off-menu
marvel available only to certain Jitlada
cognoscenti. Personally, I've never found
it necessary to stray...

Liberty, Equality, LudoBites


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Ludobites" slideshow. Gram & Papas is
thrumming on a chilly Tuesday night, its
narrow kitchen crammed elbow to elbow,
its few tables lled with musicians,
museum directors, lm people and
bloggers, who...

Jennifer Ferro: The Manager


6 years ago | People

Announcers come and announcers go.


Musical revolutions thrum into existence
and disappear. But to a not-insignicant
sliver of us, KCRW, the public radio
station that lubricates our days and
haunts our dreams, is L.A.'s permanent
sound track. On ...

First & Hope: Food to Be Ogled


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Across the street from Disney Hall, shiny as the crooked grin on the
mug of a gin-sozzled dame, First & Hope is a maximalist's cool
evening out, a restaurant-slashsupper club with a Blue Velvety jazz
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

92/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

evening out, a restaurant-slashsupper club with a Blue Velvety jazz


lounge at its heart, a bar that splits t...

Comme As You Are


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I've got eight to 10 people that I need to put
somewhere central, near the Grove area for a combination of
drinking and eating: Some will eat, some will drink and some will do
both. What I need is a exible hang. Tricia, Ven...

Gourmet Island: Sweetness and Light


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Gourmet Island: Light and
Fresh, Modern Cantonese Cuisine." On
assignment in the San Gabriel Valley, a
New Yorkbased reporter once decided to
investigate the local Chinese food scene
by checki...

Ask Mr. Gold: Comme As You Are, or


The Flexi-hang, West Hollywood Style
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I've got 8 to 10 people that


I need to put somewhere central near the
Grove area for a combination of drinking
and eating: some will eat, some will drink,
and some will do both. What I need is a
exible hang. --Tricia, Venice ...

The Price of Love


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Hubby and I went on our rst date eight years ago
this Friday. We make more money now. We want a nicer place.
Romantic. Near Mount Washington. Ideas? Tina Dear Tina:
Romance and Mount Washington don't necessarily go together...

Pa-Ordinary People
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "Pa-Ord Noodle: When in Thai
Town, Eat Fire." We've talked about this
before, but the best way to go to a Thai
restaurant in Los Angeles may be in the
company of the composer Carl Stone, a
dude so in ...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Price of Love &


Where to Spend a Little More
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

93/282

7/6/2016

Where to Spend a Little More

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

6 years ago | Last Night

Dear Mr. Gold: Hubby and I went on our


rst date eight years ago this Friday. We
make more money now. We want a nicer
place. Romantic. Near Mount
Washington. Ideas? --Tina Dear Tina:
Romance and Mount Washington don't
necessarily go together. I m...

Los Alpes: an Icy Taste of Hell


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: You seem to spend an awful lot of time tweeting
about popsicles, many of them with avors I have never
contemplated in a popsicle before. While I know that the provenance
of these things is probably something of a state secret, I a...

Libra: Grill 'Er Up


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You know the huge salad bars that take up most of the oor space at
Rio-style barbecue restaurants, installations whose single purpose is
to ll you up before you get to the all-you-can-eat skewers of grilled
meat? Libra is a little like that &m...

Beware the Dangerous Cemita


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


photo gallery, "The King of Mexican
Sandwiches: Beware the Dangerous
Cemita." Let no man interpret my regard
for pambazos as anything but reverence;
my fondness for tortas ahogadas as
anything but sincere. I eve...

Ask Mr. Gold: An Icy Taste of Hell,


and Other Paleta Flavors at Los Alpes
6 years ago | Ice Cream & Gelato

Dear Mr. Gold: You seem to spend an


awful lot of time tweeting about
popsicles, many of them with avors I
have never contemplated in a popsicle
before. While I know that the provenance
of these things is probably something of a
state secret, I a...

Fish for More: Marukai


6 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I buy nice, fresh sh in the Silver Lake/Los
Feliz/downtown area? I'm having a housewarming party. Deborah,
Los Feliz Dear Deborah: Do you really want to do seafood for a
party? You're almost always better off with...

94/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

party? You're almost always better off with...

Mac's Headroom
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow, "The Future of Macaroni and
Cheese." Hamburger whisperers often
nd entente at Father's Ofce, at least
when they can nd a seat. Dumpling
freaks mostly agree on Din Tai Fung. Even
the gnarliest of...

Ask Mr. Gold: Fish For More, or When


Mrs. Paul's Just Doesn't Cut It
6 years ago | Seafood

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I buy nice fresh


sh in the Silverlake/Los Feliz/downtown
area? I'm having a housewarming party. -Deborah, Los Feliz Dear Deborah: Do
you really want to do seafood for a party?
You're almost always better off with
roaste...

Root Beer Milk: A Float In a Bottle


6 years ago | Shopping

Is this a cry for help? Very well, it is a cry


for help. But Hildebrand Farms Dairy, a
small, family-owned operation outside
Junction City, Kansas, makes something
called Root Beer Milk - imagine a cold
glass of the richest, sweetest chocolate
mil...

Chitlins: Pasadena's Hog Killing


Dinners
6 years ago | Fundraisers

There are people who wait all year for the


Hog Killing dinners at Pasadena's Calvary
CME, a church fundraiser that sees a
fairly large number of pigs off to their
reward in heaven. It's kind of expensive,
but your $18 goes to a good cause, and
the...

Not Your Father's Rice Bowl: Roy Choi Is Back, With Chego
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Roy Choi may be the Led Zeppelin of street food: the father of a
truck-based restaurant industry that hadn't existed just 18 months
ago; the chef who draws huge numbers of people to deserted parking
lots; the architect of a new, popular cuisine. H...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

95/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

lots; the architect of a new, popular cuisine. H...

Petros: Stuck in the Middle With You


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I should probably be sent to therapy for attempting


this in the rst place, but I'm going on a rst date with someone from
Orange County. Since I pack a passport when I have to go east of the
405, obviously there is no way I'd mee...

Forage: the Found and the Farro


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Forage: Silver Lake's Antirestaurant
Neighborhood Canteen" slideshow.
Sunset Boulevard, as it swings east from
Sunset Junction, may be the most evolved
shopping area in Los Angeles, a magical
few blocks of both...

Cuttle Bone: Cuttlefish, A Tasting


Menu + The Cuttlefish Mating Ritual
6 years ago | Food Oddities

If you've ever tried the Insalatina Tiepida


Di Polipo e Seppia Arrostita Con Carcio,
Asparagi e Fave at Vincenti Ristorante in
Brentwood, and we sincerely urge that
you make a reservation today, then you
are familiar with the exquisite tendernes...

Sol Food: Sun Eats Comet, Not KFC


6 years ago | Fast Food

If you think the Double Down


phenomenon is something, you should
note that according to MSNBC, the Sun you know, the blinding orb around which
you are revolving this very second - ate
an entire comet last weekend in full view
of a space observat...

Ask Mr Gold: Stuck in the Middle


With You
6 years ago | Neighborhoods

Dear Mr. Gold: I should probably be sent


to therapy for attempting this in the rst
place, but I'm going on a rst date with
someone from Orange County. Since I
pack a passport when I have to go east of
the 405, obviously there is no way I'd
mee...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

96/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

The LAT Food Section of the 70s &


80s: Four Women, A Food Section, A
Retrospective
6 years ago | Food in the Media

If a bright marketing executive invented


something like the L.A. Times food
section of the 1970s and 1980s, he or she
would be heralded as a genius - a fat
bundle of supermarket ads leavened with
recipes, interactive features and detailed
instruct...

Hump Day: Cooking Camels With


Anissa Helou
6 years ago | Cookbooks

If you follow the blog of Anissa Helou and you should; nobody this side of Paula
Wolfert writes better about Middle
Eastern food, offal, or Middle Eastern
offal - you've read her missives on desert
trufes, Gaziantep katmer, and the exoticsoun...

District: It's Abou-Daoud Time


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst thing anybody's going to tell you about District is to order
the duck-fat Yorkshire pudding, a half-dozen airy popovers, about
the size of ping-pong balls, snatched sizzling from the oven and
served in a napkin-covered basket. Popovers t...

WeHo Where To: Small, Cozy, Italian, French ...


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My best friend is in town, and I want to take her to
some nice places near her hotel in West Hollywood. But not too
pricey and the Sunset Strip looks like a nightmare. Can you
recommend a small, cozy place near Sunset and Do...

Delphine: Bouillabaisse and Vine


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Delphine: French Riviera-Themed
Cooking" slideshow. Four women sway
toward the lobby, tugging at tight, black
skirts, stilettos in boozy lockstep. A heel
catches on a crack in the oor. A glowing
slug of apple...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

No Fat Chicks, S'il Vous Plait: Dining


with Mme. Giuliano at Petrossian
Boutique

97/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Boutique

6 years ago | Books

French women don't get fat, people say,


although they probably never met my
11th-grade French teacher, a daughter of
Normandie who could have taken Gorilla
Monsoon three falls out of ve. The
secret, at least as outlined by Merielle
Giuliano, the...

Ask Mr. Gold: Weho Whereto, or


Small, Cozy, Italian, French...
6 years ago | Neighborhoods

Dear Mr. Gold: My best friend is in town,


and I want to take her to some nice places
near her hotel in West Hollywood. But not
too pricey - and the Sunset Strip looks
like a nightmare. Can you recommend a
small, cozy place near Sunset and
Doheny? ...

10 Leg of Lamb Recipes I Briefly


Considered Making Yesterday
6 years ago | Cookbooks

1. Julia Child's gigot a la moutarde. Bea


Arthur's favorite, sure. But powdered
ginger and pounded dried rosemary?
Even on Easter, this one requires a leap of
faith. 2. Chorizo-stuffed leg of lamb from
Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at
Lucques. The...

Middle Culver: Mezza, After Mosque or Movie


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A pretty big percentage of the new places to eat in Culver City owe
their existence either to the sleek-restaurant boom downtown or to
the demand for halal food near the big mosque a couple of miles to
the west. Mezza is where the two waves meet, ...

If It's Tuesday ... It Must Be the Foundry


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I like to go out in the middle of the week, but I'm
afraid to walk into a dead, empty restaurant. In the harsh reality of a
slow night, it can feel like an odd, cheerless, hopeless encounter with
all that's wrong with the universe &...

Bon Marche
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Bon Marche" slideshow. Ventura

98/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

"Bon Marche" slideshow. Ventura


Boulevard, as it passes through Studio
City and Sherman Oaks, may have the
highest concentration of restaurants in
L.A., block after block of eateries where
you can relax over pas...

Ask Mr. Gold: If It's Tuesday... It Must


Be The Foundry
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I like go out in the middle


of the week, but I'm afraid to walk into a
dead, empty restaurant. In the harsh
reality of a slow night it can feel like an
odd, cheerless, hopeless encounter with
all that's wrong with the universe ...

Dinner Party a L.A. Mode


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: A guy I've gone on a few dates with has invited me to
a small dinner party at his house. After getting over the initial nerves
of meeting his friends for the rst time, I offered to go early to help
with cooking, but he insisted th...

Sunnin: Westwood's Middle East


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Sunnin Lebanese Cafe" slideshow.
Warren Avenue, as it streams through
Dearborn, just west of downtown Detroit,
is the Main Street of Arab America, mile
after mile of Lebanese restaurants and
Iraqi kebab houses,...

Ask Mr. Gold: Dinner Party a La Mode,


B.Y.O.H.P. (Bring Your Own
Huckleberry Pie)
6 years ago | Baking

Dear Mr. Gold: A guy I've gone on a few


dates with has invited me to a small
dinner party at his house. After getting
over the initial nerves of meeting his
friends for the rst time, I offered to go
early to help with cooking but he insisted
tha...

I Can't Believe I Ate the Whole Thing:


Neptune Eats Planet
6 years ago | Food News

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

99/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago | Food News

We've all felt hungry in the middle of the


night - hungry enough, perhaps, to power
through an entire pint of Hagen-Dazs, or
nish off the half-pizza left in the fridge.
But it's safe to assume that few of us have
ever been as voracious as ...

Ears to Good Friends: 5 of the Best


Pigs' Ears in Los Angeles
6 years ago | Food Trends

When did pig's ear begin to take over the


culinary universe? Was it Eric Frechon's
delicate curls of pig's ear on the best-ofhog plate at the Bristol in Paris? The
whole deep-fried ear April Bloomeld
introduced at the Spotted Pig in
Greenwich V...

Airing Your French Laundry


6 years ago

Top Pesto Chef!


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Like most people who cook pasta a


couple of times a week, I have always
been slightly too proud of my ability to
make pesto, the raw basil slurry that is a
specialty of the Italian port city Genoa.
And while most of the time I succumb to
the conve...

Mashup! Or, the Art of the


Repurposed Condiment
6 years ago | Cooking

Angelenos have always hoarded takeout


condiments, keeping a jug of Phillip's
extra-hot to apply to their own barbecued
ribs, frying last night's Dos Arbolito's
roasted poblano salsa into tomorrow
morning's chilaquiles, spooning the
pureed ginger t...

Ask Mr. Gold: Airing Your French


Laundry
6 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: I know it's slightly out of


your territory, but my husband and I are
heading to Napa for our rst wedding
anniversary and we're wondering if we

100/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

anniversary and we're wondering if we


should spend a million dollars and eat
dinner at The French Laundry? We love
food. We h...

Hog Heaven at The Gorbals


6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

It is hard to overestimate the appeal of a


good hog in this town, the charismatic
pull of a whole roasted animal with crisp
skin and heat-singed ears, an apple
jammed gaily between its teeth. During
Thursday's Downtown Art Walk, a
celebration of g...

Buns on the Run at Pasadena's


PappaRich Coffeeshop
6 years ago | Bakeries

Critics of McDonald's sometimes claim


that its hamburgers are engineered for
addictiveness, that somewhere in the
chemical plants of New Jersey swarms of
lab-coated scientists tabulate human
response to carefully calibrated doses of
umami. But whe...

Straight Out of Sonoma: Dish, in Pasadena


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Dish is a restaurant that would seem to have vanishingly small odds


of success. It is on an isolated, parking structuredominated block,
for one thing, where promising entrepreneurs are dashed against the
rocks of low foot trafc, and its g...

The Mexican Binge


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, My sister, who has lived for the last nearly two
decades in Japan, is coming to visit L.A. for the rst time in years.
What do you want to do? I ask. Two-word answer: "Mexican food.''
So, I'm thinking Moles La Tia, La Casita Mexica...

Tasty by Any Name


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Tasty Noodle" slideshow. Tasty Noodle
House is the prototypical Asian
restaurant stuck in a corner of the
prototypical San Gabriel mall, a few
glass-topped tables, a couple of at
screens tuned to the soaps, a...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

101/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Thar She Blows: A Whale Omakase


Sting
6 years ago | Food News

Is there anything Oscar can't do? While in


Los Angeles for the ceremony, reports
The New York Times' Jennifer Steinhauer,
director Louie Psihoyos and "director of
clandestine operations" Charles
Hambleton, who won the award for their
dolphin doc T...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Mexican Binge


6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: My sister, who has lived


for the last nearly two decades in Japan, is
coming to visit LA for the rst time in
years. What do you want to do, I ask.
Two-word answer: "Mexican food.'' So,
I'm thinking Moles La Tia, La Casita
Mexicana...

The Dumpling Ground: Dim Sum in Koreatown?


6 years ago

Dear Mr Gold: Why does Koreatown lack any form of proper dim
sum? Are there secret dumpling hiding spots beyond the traditional
Korean dumpling houses I have found? Aaron Schmidt, Koreatown
Dear Mr. Schmidt: The Chinese cooking most popular...

Into the Abyss


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Monday: The Cuban food that popped up


on nearly every page of Oscar Hijuelos'
Mambo Kings Sing Songs of Love was
widely considered to be fantastic when
the novel came out 20 years ago, a
magical-realist symbol that bopped
through the book like mus...

Will Tweet for Food: Chicken Night at


The Foundry
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

When LudoBites auteur Ludovic Lefebvre


dropped by The Foundry last week and
discovered that chef Eric Greenspan
wasn't there, he tweeted that he should
have taken over the kitchen. @chefgreeny
invited @cheudo to come fry some
chicken on a Tuesda...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: The Dumpling Ground,

102/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: The Dumpling Ground,


or Dim Sum in Koreatown
6 years ago | Korean Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Why does Koreatown lack


any form of proper dim sum? Are there
secret dumpling hiding spots beyond the
traditional Korean dumpling houses I
have found? --Aaron Schmidt, Koreatown
Dear Mr. Schmidt: The Chinese cooking
most popular wit...

A Meditation on River Caf, An Elegy


for Rose Gray
6 years ago | L.A. Chefs

Before my rst trip to London, in the


summer when all of Brixton seemed
consumed by what seemed like a single,
endless, all-night rave, I asked thencolleague Colman Andrews, who seemed
to know everything about eating in
Europe, to recommend a fe...

How I Celebrated National Pig Day


6 years ago | Holidays

"What did you do today, Daddy?"


squealed the children. "What did you do
to celebrate National Pig Day?'' "Why, the
same thing I do every day," I said. And you
know something? It was true! Yesterday
at Ford's Filling Station, a restaurant
whose spe...

99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You


Die
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "99


Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die"
slideshow. The theme of this issue is
somewhat morbid. Well admit to that. We
were going to call it "99 Things to Eat in
L.A. Before You Move to San Diego," but
i...

99 Things To Eat in L.A. Before You


Die: San Nak Ji
6 years ago | Korean Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

On Thursday the Weekly will publish our


Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A.
Before You Die. For the days leading up to
the issue, we'll be posting a few of
Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check
back each day as we count down. San Nak

103/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

back each day as we count down. San Nak


Ji:...

99 Things To Eat in L.A. Before You


Die: Huarache de Cabeza
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

On Thursday the Weekly will publish our


Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A.
Before You Die. For the days leading up to
the issue, we'll be posting a few of
Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check
back each day as we count down.
Huarache de...

99 Things To Eat in L.A. Before You


Die: Sherry Yard's Kaiserschmarrn
6 years ago | Desserts

On Thursday the Weekly will publish our


Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A.
Before You Die. For the days leading up to
the issue, we'll be posting a few of
Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check
back each day as we count down. Sherry
Yard...

99 Things To Eat in L.A. Before You


Die: Bulgarini Goat's Milk Gelato
6 years ago

On Thursday the Weekly will publish our


Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A.
Before You Die. For the days leading up to
the issue, we'll be posting a few of
Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check
back each day as we count down.
Bulgarini G...

99 Things To Eat in L.A. Before You


Die: Urasawa's Fugu
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

On Thursday the Weekly will publish our


Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A.
Before You Die. For the days leading up to
the issue, we'll be posting a few of
Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check
back each day as we count down.
Urasawa's F...

Best of the Oaxacans: A Mole Here, a Mole there ...


6 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

104/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have friends coming from NYC and they've been
asking about Oaxacan food. Oaxacan food? I'd like to nd a great
place, and what I mean by great is very good food and not a truck.
Sherry, Manhattan Beach Dear Sherry: ...

The Real McCoy: Hatfield's Revisited


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The main dining room at Citrus lay at the heart of California cooking
in the mid-1980s, a clean, white space opening directly onto the
restaurant's vast open kitchen, where you imagined you could follow
the progress of your appetizer from garde ma...

The Longest Day: L.A. Street Food


Fest
6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"L.A. Street Food Fest" slideshow. In my
experience, you are either a festival guy
or you are not; you enjoy oating into
Coachella or SXSW, or you wait a few
days to check out the band you want to
hear at the ...

Ask Mr. Gold: A Mole Here, A Mole


There
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I have friends coming


from NYC and they've been asking about
Oaxacan food. Oaxacan food? I'd like to
nd a great place, and what I mean by
great is very good food and not a truck. -Sherry, Manhattan Beach Dear Sherry:
Los Angeles ...

I Fought the Slaw: The Slaw Dogs


Opens in Pasadena
6 years ago | Fast Food

Lake Avenue, as it thrusts up towards


Altadena, has long been where Pasadena
sequesters its fast-food restaurants, and
at the heart of it, you can nd nearly every
drive-thru window that has ever
sponsored a football broadcast. The street
has als...

The Gorbals: Stomp, the Restaurant


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Jewish-Glaswegian Inspiration at The
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

105/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

"Jewish-Glaswegian Inspiration at The


Gorbals" photo gallery. The Gorbals,
perhaps, is a restaurant that should not be
seen by the light of day, when the boxy
tables look like a shop-class project, the
artfully ...

Found Restaurant: Forage in Silver Lake


6 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Why, you may ask, was I picking kumquats at night in the driving
rain? Because I was headed for dinner at Forage, the newest
restaurant in Silver Lake, where I had heard diners were encouraged
to bring in homegrown fruits and vegetables to barter ...

What Would Pau Do? LA Paella Brings Spain to L.A.


6 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I love this giant melting pot we live in, but why do we
have so little representation of Spanish food? Am I missing
something? Matt Armendariz Dear Mr. Armendariz: Probably
because L.A.s best maker of charcuterie, La E...

Ask Mr. Gold: Spain in L.A., or What


Would Pau Do?
6 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I love this big giant melting


pot we live in, but why do we have such
little representation of Spanish food? Am
I missing something? --Matt Armendariz
Dear Mr. Armendariz: Probably because
L.A.'s best maker of charcuterie, La
Espano...

Don't Ask, Don't Tell: Aladdin


Nuthouse Nuts
6 years ago | Grocers

I am a regular patron of Aladdin


Nuthouse, one of the better Armenian nut
vendors in town, a place with a halfdozen kinds of melon seeds, delicious
sesame peanuts, and a way of roasting
hazelnuts and almonds that not only
brings out the full, rou...

Going Gluten-Free (Reluctantly) at


the Little Flower Candy Company
6 years ago | Bakeries

While announcements of gluten-free


desserts make up a surprisingly large
percentage of the contents of our in-box
every morning, the phenomenon has
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

106/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

every morning, the phenomenon has


done little to stir Squid Ink's soul. Because
while we realize the presence of gluten
may be a prob...

One Art: Pesto Alla Genoese a la YouTube


7 years ago | Cooking

I'm not sure what's come over me today. One moment, I'm ipping
around Google, looking for a basic pesto recipe, and two hours later,
I nd myself still in front of the screen, staring at a Genoese
instructional video for the 15th time in a row,...

McCall's Meat & Fish Co.: The Arrival


of the Rock Star Butcher
7 years ago | Butchery

For years, people have been asking about


artisanal butcher shops, and for years,
our list has been pretty much the same:
Alexander's Prime Meats in San Gabriel
and Huntington Meats and Marconda
Meats in the Farmers Market at Third and
Fairfax, wit...

Ask Mr. Gold: Lapp Trance, or


Jusstoleipia the Cheese, Please
7 years ago | Cheese

Dear Mr. Gold: A friend of mine went back


to Wisconsin for the holidays and
returned with a bounty of cheesy treats. I
was introduced to juustoleipi and totally
fell in love with this funny, squeaky
cheese with its baked, sweet, caramelized
...

Xokolatl Thunder: Post-Reconquista


Cacao at Xokolatl Caf in El Sereno
7 years ago | Chocolate

There is no shortage of coffeehouses on


the Eastside, and places specializing in
the various Mexican forms of hot
chocolate are not uncommon - we
reviewed one of them, Cacao
Mexicatessen, just last week. And it must
be said, the new Xokolatl, a ch...

Bigmista Barbecue: Pig Candy +


Burnt Ends-A-Go-Go
7 years ago | BBQ

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Am I the last person in Los Angeles to


have visited Bigmista's Barbecue at the

107/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

have visited Bigmista's Barbecue at the


Atwater Farmers Market? Because I seem
to have been the only customer last week
not to realize that Bigmista's is best
visited within a few minutes after the
stand open...

Simply French: Bastide Is Back


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Joe Pytka is different from you and me, a businessman whose name
appears on more telephone poles than AT&T, a bon vivant who
spends more on wine than Jay Leno spends on cars, and probably
the only director to draw performances out of both Michael ...

Munching the Unmentionable


7 years ago

Lapp Trance
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: A friend went back to Wisconsin for the holidays and
returned with a bounty of cheesy treats. I was introduced to
juustoleipi and totally fell in love with this funny, squeaky cheese
with its baked, sweet, caramelized crust. D...

Monet's Briskets: Bludsos


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If the res are burning high and you turn


up at the right time of day, the barbecued
beef brisket at Bludso's can be as good as
barbecue gets an impressionist painting
of meat, a damp vapor you inhale so fast
and so unconsciously that you...

W Is for Brasserie
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When food people visit New York, they may check out what David
Chang or Mario Batali are up to, contemplate a fancy French meal
and swing by the latest place given three stars by The New York
Times. But the place where they all end up, where the w...

Ask Mr. Gold: Munching the


Unmentionable. Where to Find the
Foodie's Equivalent of a Snuff Film. Or
Not
7 years ago | Food Oddities

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there a food equivalent


to a snuff lm? I mean this quite literally.
Is there some kind of food that is

108/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Is there some kind of food that is


underground, illegal to the max, that is
only rumored even among the foodiest of
foodies? I suppose eating human esh
would...

Michelle Huneven's 'Blame' A Finalist


for National Book Critics Circle
Award: Fiction, Not Food Writing
7 years ago | Books

Blame, the third novel of longtime Weekly


contributor Michelle Huneven was
announced as a nalist for the 2009
National Book Critics Circle award in
ction. Squid Ink couldn't be happier.
Sure, Huneven has been writing for the
Weekly for what se...

Psst... About Bastide's Wine Cellar


7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Speaking of Joe Pytka's $50,000 case of


wine - we were just talking about Pytka's
wine, weren't we? - Bastide, temporarily
reincarnated as a lunch-only
bookstore/cafe until it reopens in
February, is quietly thinning its cellar at
something close ...

What's the Story, Morning Glory?


7 years ago | Chinese Cuisine

Sometimes it's late and the cocktails have


started to creep up on you and a doublechili-cheese at Tommy's is the thing. But
for us, slightly more often, a hard seat and
an order of fried morning glory are just
what we need after a night of seriou...

Lazy Ox Canteen: Where's bco?


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Lazy Ox Canteen" photo gallery. If you
are a man who enjoys a little Black
Sabbath with his dinner, the new Lazy Ox
Canteen may be just the place for you: a
new downtown restaurant where dinner
starts with "Par...

Off the Street: Antojitos Carmen comes in from the cold


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Back when I used to spend my days as the Weekly's music editor


instead of its restaurant critic, my favorite time to see a band was in

109/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

instead of its restaurant critic, my favorite time to see a band was in


the weeks just before it released its rst major record, after it had
scrubbed away some of the grime of the cl...

Pangs of Industry: Earthen


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in the City of Industry. And I'm starving. Evan K.,
L.A. Dear Evan: There are worse places to be hungry than Industry.
But while the area has many decent restaurants, it's generally too far
to drive for a casual lu...

Duck Duck Taco: CACAO


MEXICATESSEN
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Here is the topic for today's discussion:


Why isn't duck carnitas on every Mexican
menu in town? Because if you think about
it, the dish is almost inevitable duck
meat simmered in fat until it nearly
collapses, perfumed esh arranged atop...

Ask Mr. Gold: Pangs Of Industry.


Where to Eat in a City Without
Residents?
7 years ago | Neighborhoods

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm in the City of Industry.


And I'm starving. --Evan K., Los Angeles
Dear Evan: There are worse places to be
hungry than Industry. But while there are
a lot of decent restaurants in the area, it's
generally too far to drive for a c...

Balls to the Wall: New Orleans


Snoballs
7 years ago | Cheap Eats

New Orleans Sno Balls is exactly where it


should be, I guess, just around the corner
from the restaurant La Louisianne and
close to the tonier Creole precincts of the
southern Baldwin Hills. New Orleans
migrs crave snoballs like th...

Fig Out
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

The rst thing youll want to know about


Fig is that it serves bacon-wrapped
bacon, which is a warning shot red over
the heaving bow of S.S. Food. Fig is the
lobby-level bistro in the Fairmont
Miramar Hotel, a glassed-in space
overlooking...

110/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

overlooking...

Oscar, Mr. Gold


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im going to the Oscars in March but not to the ball
afterward. Its been difcult nding a nice restaurant thats open past
10 p.m. on Sunday night. Where can a group of tuxedos and gowns
make reservations for d...

House Style
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Coras, Bruce Marders lunch place in Santa Monica, is a nice place to


spend an afternoon: strong coffee, a leafy patio a block from the
beach and a relaxed style of California-lunchroom cooking that
admits both carnitas tacos and Ital...

Stop the Presses: Tomorrow's


National Pastrami Day!
7 years ago | Delis

Langer's, the Westlake institution often


considered the best delicatessen in
America, is celebrating National Pastrami
Day tomorrow, January 14. What this
means, I think, is that if you order a
pastrami sandwich, they'll serve you one.
Mavens ofte...

Ask Mr. Gold: Address To A Haggis


7 years ago | Shopping

Dear Mr. Gold: I've only eaten haggis with


my dad in Scotland, and loved every bite.
Is there a proper, classic haggis (along
with neeps and tatties) in Los Angeles?
Never been to Tam O'Shanter (sort of
feels like "cheating"), but it's about time ...

Eat Like a Caveman, Party Like a


Rock Star
7 years ago | Books

Like many of you who pushed away from


the Christmas goose a little too late in the
game, I have become obsessed with the
feel-bad journalism that rolls around at
this time every January, a roll call of
groats, capon broth and certain death that
is...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: Where to Go After the


Academy Awards

111/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Academy Awards
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm going to the Oscars in


March but not to the ball afterward. It's
been difcult nding a nice restaurant
that's open past 10pm on Sunday night.
Where can a group of tuxedos and gowns
make reservations for dinner not
knowing whe...

Offal Wednesdays at Palate: Snout +


Comb
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Palate Food + Wine, a restaurant towards


which we feel a great amount of affection,
just announced its new Offal Wednesdays,
in the spirit of its Tuesday Cirque de
Fromage - a concept of which we are no
less fond. Because while some people are
bec...

Think Pink: Nan Ru Peanuts, Better


Than Parrot Feed or Cat Videos
7 years ago | Cheap Eats

If you ran across a bowl of nan ru peanuts


at a party, you'd probably pass right by
them on the way to the bean dip. They're
unprepossessing little things, closer to
parrot feed than to the peanuts you nd at
the ballpark, and the shells are tint...

Good Head: Eating Barbacoa at Lilly's


Taqueria
7 years ago | Cheap Eats

For decades, Angelenos have been


making the 90-mile drive up to La Super
Rica, the Santa Barbara taco shack that is
invariably identied as Julia Child's
favorite Mexican restaurant. The food was
like nothing in Los Angeles. And while
many of us ...

Celebrating Centeno at the Lazy Ox Canteen


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When food obsessives get to the future of restaurant food in L.A.,


sooner or later the discussion comes around to Josef Centeno, an
uncommonly gifted chef who seems always to wash up at the wrong
restaurant at the wrong time even those of ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Northern Comfort: In Winter, Khao Soi Hits the Spot

112/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Northern Comfort: In Winter, Khao Soi Hits the Spot


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I just returned from a trip to Southeast Asia, and
while in northern Thailand, I discovered the yellow noodle dish with
chicken in curry and coconut milk, known as khao soi. Its the perfect
winter comfort food (spicy and crea...

Far From the Lebanese Crowd


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Far


From the Lebanese Crowd at Mantee"
photo gallery. Whatever sort of Lebanese
restaurant you may be thinking of at the
moment, Mantee is the other kind, a tiny,
stuffy caf near the eastern end of Vent...

Ask Mr. Gold: Northern Comfort. In


Winter, Khao Soi Hits the Spot
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I just returned from a trip


to Southeast Asia, and while in northern
Thailand, I discovered the yellow noodle
dish with chicken in curry and coconut
milk, known as khao soi. It's the perfect
winter comfort food (spicy and creamy,
sw...

Finding Macaroons
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was a big fan of the delicate, light-as-air macaroons
they used to sell at the now-defunct Boule, on La Cienega. I always
thought they made a nice gift and loved dropping by and getting a
couple whenever I needed a sweet treat. Si...

As Pub Food Goes ... the Gorbals


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever tried to catch dinner at The Gorbals? Because


something tells me that this is one restaurant trying hard not to be
found. For one thing, it closes at random hours, which means that
when you walk past the movie-star portraits in the e...

The Best Dishes of 2009


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Best Dishes of 2009" photo gallery. The
original Shu Feng Garden, jammed into
the usual mini-mall storefront in a corner
of Rowland Heights, has for years posed a
conundrum. Although it has been,
practically wi...

113/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

practically wi...

Ask Mr. Gold: Finding Macaroons,


From Eye-Popping Colors to
Chocolate with Sea Salt
7 years ago | Bakeries

Dear Mr. Gold: I was a big fan of the


delicate, light-as-air macaroons they used
to sell at the now-defunct Boule, on La
Cienega. I always thought they made a
nice gift and loved dropping by and
getting a couple whenever I needed a
sweet treat. Si...

Nostalgia With a Twist: The Tar Pit, Mark Peels Latest


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Do many restaurants these days seem to feature crab cakes, steak


tartare and deviled eggs? Is the age of shrimp Louie and braised pigs
ears still upon us? Are the kinds of places that used to hire DJs and
burly doormen now hiring Aperol-hap...

Carbonara Quest: Angelini Osteria


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: You would think, after all this time, that somebody
would make a decent spaghetti alla carbonara in this town, but
although I have run across good enough versions of trenette al
pesto, bucatini allAmatriciana, even tortellini...

Oregon Style: The Tasting Kitchen


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"The Tasting Kitchen" photo gallery. The
Tasting Kitchen, a newish trattoria down
on Abbot Kinney, feels more like a project
art collective than a proper restaurant, a
place at once both strange and familiar,
wh...

Ask Mr. Gold: In Search of the Perfect


Spaghetti Alla Carbonara
7 years ago | Italian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: You would think, after all


this time, that somebody would make a
decent spaghetti alla carbonara in this
town, but although I have run across
good enough versions of trenette al pesto,
bucatini all'Amatriciana, even tortellini in
br...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

114/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

A Movable Feast: LudoBites 3.0 at Royal/T Caf


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There are restaurants that food bloggers like. There are restaurants
that food bloggers adore. And then there is LudoBites, a pop-up
restaurant that sometimes seems as if it is run for the sole benet of
food bloggers, who cop scarce reservations...

No Bell? Jar, Then


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, The head honcho is coming to town, and wants to
treat me to the best brunch in Los Angeles. No scrimping. What
would you suggest? Miss Chiffonade, Silver Lake Dear Miss
Chiffonade: No scrimping? The usual suspects may ...

Drowning, Not Eating


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Drowning, Not Eating; L.A.'s Tortas
Ahogadas" photo gallery. Tortas cubanas
are almost as common as burritos in Los
Angeles. Mexico Citystyle pambazos rule
the world of street food. The muscular
cemita P...

Ask Mr. Gold: No Bell? Jar, Then. For


the Best Brunch in Town, No
Scrimping
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: The head honcho is


coming to town, and wants to treat me to
the best brunch in Los Angeles. No
scrimping. What would you suggest? -Miss Chiffonade, Silver Lake Dear Miss
Chiffonade: No scrimping? The usual
suspects may not quite do...

GOING HAM FOR THE HOLIDAYS


7 years ago

EL PARIAN WILL GET YOUR GOAT


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have spent much time in South and


Southeast L.A., around the boulevards
and crabbed side streets that are home to
much of the great northward ow, you
may have come to believe that practically
everything worth doing or eating
originated in...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

115/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: This or That Little


Piggy. Going Ham for the Holidays?
7 years ago | Meat

Dear Mr. Gold: I'm never one to make a


signicant culinary move without your
counsel. Do you have any
recommendations for where I might buy a
delicious ham for the holidays?I know I
can have one shipped from across the
country, but wa...

Split Personality: The Many Faces of Palate


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A restaurant, as anyone who has worked in one can tell you, is often
several restaurants at once, cheap and quirky midweek but an
insufferable tourist trap come Sunday, or buzzing with happiness at
Sunday lunch but slow and dreary at night. Eva&rs...

Where, Oh Where, for an Almond Croissant? (Oh! Susina)


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where do you think they make the best almond
croissants? @LocalLowdownLA, via Twitter Dear
@LocalLowdownLA: You would think an almond croissant would be
a no-brainer, but last week I had a damp, wadded specimen that
tasted li...

New Chong Qing: New Hot Pot Spot


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's New


Chong Qing photo gallery. Some of the
best cooking in the L.A. area happens in
mini-malls: Everybody whos lived here
more than a month or two knows that. If
you arent willing to dine in a resta...

Ask Mr Gold: Where, Oh Where, For


An Almond Croissant? Oh! Susina
7 years ago | Bakeries

Dear Mr. Gold: Where do you think they


make the best almond croissants? -@LocalLowdownLA, via Twitter Dear
@LocalLowdownLA: You would think
that an almond croissant would be a nobrainer, but I had a damp, wadded
specimen last week that tasted li...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr Gold: Boiling or Roasting? A


Question of Degrees

116/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Question of Degrees
7 years ago | Cooking

Dear Mr. Gold: Boiling versus roasting.


I'm too embarrassed to ask this out loud...
but technically, they're not opposites,
right? That's like saying frying is the
opposite of boiling. And why would one
be quicker to roast one's enemies rather
tha...

Pomp and Circumference: Bouchon Is a Corker of a


Restaurant
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In this year of the grand restaurant, there has been nothing like
Bouchon, an enormous, luxurious dining room stretching halfway
across town; high ceilings, stenciled walls, gilt and pomp and owers
even by the standards of its neighborho...

A Question of Degrees: Boiling or Roasting?


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Boiling versus roasting. Im too embarrassed to ask


this out loud ... but technically, theyre not opposites, right? Thats
like saying frying is the opposite of boiling. And why would one be
quicker to roast one&r...

Fried in East L.A.: Antojitos Carmen


and the Breed Street Band of
Mexican Vendors
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Fried in East L.A." photo gallery. It is late,
and my family is asleep in the car, and I
am leaning against a chain-link fence on a
sleepy Eastside street. At the shuttered
bakery on the corner, some of the nig...

Choza Mama
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Oh, Old Pasadena, dasher of hopes and destroyer of restaurants, a


hostile, trafc-choked terrordome where only the strongest survive,
where rents are breathtaking, where even the best-nanced
enterprises founder on the rocks. But out of the ashe...

Sunday Meal at Golden State: Burgers, Beers and Fries


7 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: We have friends in town from Seattle, and theyre
hungering for a really ne burger, excellent fries and a primo beer
selection. Is there such a place, one that offers all three under one
roof? A place thats open on Su...

117/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

roof? A place thats open on Su...

Kiyokawa: So Sorry, So Good


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


Kiyokawa photo gallery. Kiyokawa is a
small sushi bar on the southern edge of
Beverly Hills, a couple of blocks south of
Wilshire and almost invisible among
modest boutiques and storefront ofces.
If you...

Ask Mr Gold: The Sunday Meal.


Burgers, Beers and Fries
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: We have friends in town


from Seattle, and they're hungering for a
really ne burger, excellent fries and a
primo beer selection. (Is there such a
place, a place that offers all three under
one roof? A place that's open on Sunday?
-...

Point West: Mark Peels new Culver City digs


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some people eat out of vending machines at work. Some ofces


enjoy occasional visits from the Nom Nom Truck. But the
information gurus who labor in Culver Citys Media District, in the
old warehouses converted to vast, intricately architect...

Bollywood and Vine: Agra Caf


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you recommend some great Indian restaurants
in Los Angeles that visiting Londoners might like? Anarkali and the
Bombay Caf are just ne, but they seem a little bland compared to
what were used to at home. If yo...

Bistro LQ: Hare Today


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Hare Today, Wild Boar Sopes Tomorrow
at Bistro LQ" photo gallery. If I was forced
to choose a single favorite dish, it would
probably be lievre la royale, an old
French preparation of marinated hare st...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: Bollywood and Vine. LA


Indian Food Fit For An Englishman (Or
-Woman)

118/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

-Woman)

7 years ago | Indian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you recommend


some great Indian restaurants in Los
Angeles that visiting Londoners might
like? Anarkali and the Bombay Cafe are
just ne, but they seem a little bland
compared to what we're used to at home.
If you have any id...

Philippe Is Not Your Daddy's Chinese


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Philippe is a new-generation offshoot of Mr. Chow, which is to say it


serves the kind of Chinese food that would have passed muster in
London in the swingin 60s: cubes of Beijing chicken breast
burnished with syr...

Allston Yacht Club: Where to Take the rents in Echo Park


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My parents are coming to visit, very parenty parents,
and I was wondering if you have any idea where I might take them
for dinner in Echo Park or Highland Park on a Saturday night. I want
to show them my neighborhood, but Im ...

Indo Caf: Out of the Ashes


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Out Of The Ashes And Into The Urap At
Indo Cafe" photo gallery. Have you ever
tasted Indonesian urap? Because if you
havent, it may be difcult for me to
describe the version, which ranks among
the most...

Ask Mr. Gold: Where To Take Your


Parents in Echo Park? Why, the Yacht
Club, of Course
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: My parents are coming to


visit, very parenty parents, and I was
wondering if you have any idea where I
might take them for dinner in Echo Park
or Highland Park on a Saturday night. I
want to show them my neighborhood, but
I'm thinki...

Truffled Lounge: Rockwells Architectural Comforts


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

How many lounges are there in Hollywood? You may as well ask
how many grains of sand lie along the shore? But Rockwell, the

119/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

how many grains of sand lie along the shore? But Rockwell, the
sister of Los Feliz perennial Vermont, is actually a comfortable place
to spend an evening, a highly architected space hidd...

The Cook, the Eavesdropper, His Wife and Her Birthday


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: As I was having coffee at Europane the other day, I
could have sworn that I overheard somebody who sounds like you
tell a young couple that Church and State was a place they must go
as often as possible.My wifes birthda...

Billys: A Deli Grows in Glendale


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "A


Deli Grows In Glendale, Or Maybe Billy's
Was There All Along" photo gallery. When
you are cruising the back streets of
downtown Glendale, escaping from trafc
or on your way to the mall, Billys Deli c...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Cook, the


Eavesdropper, His Wife and Her
Birthday. Church & State, Yes or No?
7 years ago | Bistros

Dear Mr. Gold: As I was having coffee at


EuroPane the other day, I could have
sworn that I overheard somebody who
sounds like you tell a young couple that
Church & State was a place they must go
as often as possible. My wife's birthday is
coming u...

Where Can a Girl With Attitude Take a Guy on a First Date?


7 years ago

Y Tu Umami, Tambien: Now in Los Feliz, too


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Adam Fleischman, it is safe to say, is in touch with his inner food


geek, from his founding of the nerd-friendly wine bar Bottlerock to
the endless selection of Hungarian reds on the list at Vinoteque. The
original Umami Burger felt like the ultim...

What Is a Burrito? A Primer


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"What is a Burrito?" photo gallery. I have
never been able to change a Taiwanese
womans mind when I tilt against her
favorite soy milk, and there is no arguing

120/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

favorite soy milk, and there is no arguing


rigatoni with a certain kind of ItalianAmer...

Ask Mr. Gold: Where Can A Girl With


Attitude (& A Dog) Take A Guy On A
First Date?
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Christ. How one keeps up


an appetite is beyond me. So where
should I go for a date? I'm picking the
restaurant, of course, somewhere
between Santa Monica and Pasadena. It's
an actual date, so it has to be bearable if
the date is not...

Love, Shandong-Style: at 101 Noodle Express, a Beef Roll as


Big as Your Arm
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If youve kept up with Chinese cooking in the San Gabriel Valley,


youve likely heard of the beef roll, a steroidal composition of fried
Chinese pancakes, cilantro and great stfuls of thinly sliced meat
wetted with sweet bean sauce a...

Consider the Oysterette


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Pleasures at Blue Point Oysterette"
photo gallery. When people ask about my
favorite restaurant in New York, after the
ritual banter about the game birds at
Daniel and a bread-crumb soup I once
had at Jean-Geor...

Play It Again, Jean: Casa Bianca Once More


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I used to like Casa Bianca before the lines stretched
halfway to China, but, I have to admit, its been a while. I know
good neon and checked tablecloths and everything, but is it still
worth a visit? Jean, Sier...

Ask Mr. Gold: Play It Again, Jean.


Casa Bianca Once More
7 years ago | Italian Cuisine

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: I used to like Casa Bianca


before the lines stretched halfway to
China, but I have to admit it's been a
while. I know - good neon and checked
tablecloths and everything, but is it still
worth a visit? --Jean, Sierra Madre Dear
Jean:...

121/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Jean:...

Crustacean Frustration: Whither the Vietnamese fried crab?


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: One of my co-workers asked me to ask you for a good
place to get Vietnamese fried crab. I said I would try. Jim, South
Pasadena Dear Jim: There is, of course, a famous Beverly Hills
restaurant famous for just this dish, and a...

JTYH Restaurant: Heavy Noodling II


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Heavy Noodling" photo gallery. Have you
encountered Shanxi knife-cut noodles?
Because if you havent, you should really
give them a try thick, irregular things,
frilled on one edge like the gills ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Crusty Crustacean


7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: One of my co-workers


asked me to ask you for a good place to
get Vietnamese fried crab. I said I would
try. --Jim, South Pasadena Dear Jim:
There is, of course, a Beverly Hills
restaurant famous for just this dish, and a
friend once...

New Guac City: Rosa Mexicano at L.A. Live


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There is no gentle way to put this: From the moment it was


announced, Rosa Mexicano has been a blaring red ag hoisted over
the L.A. Live complex, a symbol of the tone-deafness of the taxsucking developers and zillionaire contractors behind the ...

Cube: Cornucopia Squared


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Cornucopia Squared at Cube" photo
gallery. Somebody at Cube is good at
shopping. I thought Id get that out of the
way. Somebody at Cube is very good at
shopping and not just the usual stuff,
the ...

Dark Surprise: Claud Beltran Gets all Noir on Us


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Pasadena, while delightful in so many other ways, has never been


long on plausible adult restaurants, dining rooms where the cooking
was serious, the noise level was reasonable and the wine list

122/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

was serious, the noise level was reasonable and the wine list
extended to more than a few dozen usual suspects. An...

Wo Knnen Wir Essen


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Two friends and I have been sharing our cultures with
one another via restaurants, and its been really fun. While Korean
restaurants are easy to nd, and Japanese restaurants are, too, its
my turn now, and as somebody...

Ask Mr. Gold: Sprechen Sie Hipster?


7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: Two friends and I have


been sharing our cultures with one
another via restaurants, and it's been
really fun. While Korean restaurants are
easy to nd, and Japanese restaurants are,
too, it's my turn now, and as somebody
whose ances...

Youre a Pig!
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"You're a Pig!" photo gallery. Have you
ever had too much pork belly not a slab
of bacon or a braised Chinese version that
you are expected to share with a table of
10, but so much of the stuff, sliced t...

Ask Mr. Gold: Gray Anatomy Con


Queso
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Dear Mr. Gold: I was wondering if you


have any recommendations for tacos de
sesos in Echo Park or surrounding
neighborhoods. It seems brains are more
difcult to come by than they were in the
past. --Nicole, Echo Park Dear Nicole:
Sesos aren't my...

Brainy Tacos
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was wondering if you have any recommendations


for tacos de sesos in Echo Park or surrounding neighborhoods. It
seems brains are more difcult to come by than they were in the
past. Nicole, Echo Park Dear Nicole: Sesos aren...

All About Eva


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

123/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Are you comfortable? Is it delicious? If you get a chance, take a


look at the photographs on the walls theyre by Hans Gissinger, in
collaboration with the French chef Marc Meneau.&rsq...

Ask Mr. Gold: Sea Cucumber,


Anyone?
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Any recomendations for


the best place to try sea cucumber? Either
Asian and non-Asian preparations would
be ne. I was watching the Bitman/Batali
show "Spain... On The Road Again" and
the grilled sea cucumber they were eating
looke...

Zahle in the Valley: The Middle-Eastern Polish of Alcazar


Express
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Since it opened a few years ago, Alcazar has been the go-to Lebanese
place in the Valley, a pleasantly scented patio with great chicken
kebabs, fried sh with tahini and oceans of specially imported arak, a
place that a Beirut-loving friend dubbe...

Sea Cucumber, Anyone?


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Any recommendations for the best place to try sea
cucumber? Either Asian or non-Asian preparations would be ne. I
was watching the Bitman/Batali show Spain ... on the Road Again,
and the grilled sea cucumber they were eating looke...

Street Cred
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Street Cred"


slideshow. When the rst Bush was in the
White House, gas was cheap and many of
us hadnt yet gured out how to turn on
our ovens, my friends and I used to treat
our parties almost as ethnographi...

Ask Mr. Gold: Popeye's and Jazz?


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: If you were heading to the


Bowl from the Westside, where would you
stop to put together a picnic of portable,
nger-friendly chicken? I'm thinking
Koreatown is too far out of the way. -Zora, Culver City Dear Zora: Koreatown
isn't ...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

124/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

The Tasting Kitchen: Catch It If You Can


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some of the best new places to eat in L.A. are less restaurants than
notes toward a restaurant, intricate sketches that may or may not
end up as permanent establishments with xed addresses, walk-in
refrigerators and menus that dont necess...

Hail the Conquering Chicken


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Dong Nguyen


and Savoy: Hail the Conquering Chicken"
slideshow. I am willing to go toe to toe on
the subject of what might properly go into
a Los Angeles burrito, and I can hold my
own when symposia on spaghetti
carbonara a...

Popeyes and Jazz


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: If you were heading to the Bowl from the Westside,
where would you stop to put together a picnic of portable, ngerfriendly chicken? Im thinking Koreatown is too far out of the way.
Zora, Culver City Dear Zora...

Jonathan Golds 99 Essential L.A.


Restaurants
7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

View more photos in the "Guerrilla


Cuisine: Jonathan Golds Essential L.A.
Restaurants" slideshow. As surely as gs
ripen, basil bursts into fragrance and the
paleta vendors step up their rounds, so
too arises the question of what an essent...

Meat and the City


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: It seems like theres a lot going on in New York and in
San Francisco in terms of meat, but I havent heard of much out of
Los Angeles yet. Im a recent USC graduate working with an amazing
butcher in Brooklyn &mda...

Ask Mr. Gold: Meat and the City


7 years ago | Butchery

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: It seems like there's a lot


going on in New York and in San
Francisco in terms of meat, but I haven't
heard of much out of Los Angeles yet. I'm
a recent USC graduate working with an
amazing butcher in Brooklyn -- a rock

125/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

amazing butcher in Brooklyn -- a rock


star butcher...

Cuban Corn on the Cob, con Clown


7 years ago

Of Cumin Bondage: Korean at Feng


Mao
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Of Cumin


Bondage" slideshow. Koreatown may be
best known as a land of fresh tofu,
bibimbap and owing soju, but the
neighborhood is also famous for its
embrace of foreign cuisines, from the
proliferation of Vietnamese noo...

Riva: Stuzzichini This, Stuzzichini That


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

As the small-plates menu continues its Shermans March through the


Westside, it was inevitable that at least a restaurant or two would tap
into the stuzzichini movement, a wave of cafs specializing in
crostini and cured meats and lit...

Ask Mr. Gold: Cuban Corn on the Cob,


Con Clown
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Okay, so I just got back


from New York, where I ate, for the rst
time in my life and hopefully not my last,
this Cuban corn on the cob on a stick with
cheese and spices and lime. Where in Los
Angeles can I nd this?...

Chili Johns: Coming Home


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In parts of Europe, as generations of travelers have learned,


restaurants often close for several weeks in the summer, and while I
would wish to deprive no hard-working line cook of her three weeks
in a rental at in Elba, chiuso, closed, may be ...

To Beef or Not to Beef: Officina della


Bistecca
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

View more photos in the "To Beef or Not


to Beef" slideshow. Any food person who
has passed through Chianti in the past
decade has run across Dario Cecchini. It

126/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

decade has run across Dario Cecchini. It


has become almost mandatory to stop by
his family butcher shop in Panzano to
pick up a ...

Kosher Credentials in the San Fernando Valley


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My son would like to go a kosher restaurant for his
birthday. Do you have any recommendations? Michael, Northridge
Dear Michael: The local universe of kosher dining is better than it
used to be, when nine-tenths of my ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Kosher Credentials; Nu,


Does It Have To Be Trayf?
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My son would like to go a


kosher restaurant for his birthday. Do you
have any recommendations? --Michael,
Northridge Dear Michael: The local
universe of kosher dining is better than it
used to be, when nine-tenths of my meals
with o...

Ludo Bites at Breadbar


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the Ludo Bites


slideshow. Picture a slice of Spanish
chorizo, then imagine that avor
transferred intact to a cool, cream soup
animal funk, smoked paprika and all. In
the bowl, arranged like building blocks,
are ...

GUELAGUETZA: Romance and Salsa


7 years ago

Le Saint Amour: Paris in Culver City


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Los Angeles is at the moment blessed with a handful of fantasy


bistros, places that could hold their own in bistro-sated New York or
even Paris, like Anisette, Lou, Comme a and Church & State, which
are redening the form. And then there ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Romantic Mexican, In


Search of the Perfect Spot to Impress
his Gal
7 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you please


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

127/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Dear Mr. Gold: Could you please


recommend one or two outstanding
Mexican food restaurants in the L.A. area.
I am sick to death of El Cholo, and I have
what you could describe as a special date
coming up. Lovell, Los Angeles Dear
Lovell: Mexican re...

THE HEAT IS ON AT SUGAR SPICE CAFE


7 years ago

JOSIAH CITRIN'S SECOND (LOUNGE) ACT


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Josiah Citrin is the rst dude of haute cuisine in Santa Monica, a


burly ex-surfer who earned two Michelin stars for the cooking at his
surprisingly rened Mlisse, a dark, plush dining room where
moguls graze on $210 tasting menus. M&eac...

FLORIA DEL RIO WILL GET YOUR


GOAT
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Eat Some


Goat!" slideshow. On hot Sunday
mornings when the asphalt turns to syrup
and the cats begin to pant, the pace is
easier than usual on the Eastside, the wait
at the bakeries briefer, El Mercado less
crowded, the ta...

Ask Mr. Gold: Japanese Curry Rice


and Everything Nice at Sugar Spice
Caf
7 years ago | Japanese Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold:


I'm probably the last person on the block
to discover Japanese curry rice, but I'm
now ofcially hooked.

Silk Purse: AT CHURCH & STATE,


CHEF WALTER MANZKE
TRANSFORMS A PIGS EAR
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the Church & State


slideshow. Pigs ears are not hard to nd
in Los Angeles. Shanghai-style
restaurants tend to have them, boiled and
pressed into a kind of sliced terrine, and
Sichuan chefs supplement the ears with
thre...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

128/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

thre...

Ask Mr. Gold: The Quintessential


Experience for the Out-of-Towner
7 years ago | Food Trucks

Dear Mr. Gold:


I was in Rome a few months ago and an
Italian friend took me out to a great
neighborhood pizzeria/ristorante
(Pizzeria San Marco). The place was off
the tourist trail, not in any guidebooks,
but packed with locals, the ess...

EATING, L.A. STYLE


7 years ago

Mozza 2Go: Pizza on the Run


7 years ago

For even the biggest fans among us, the superb quality of Mozzas
pizza must often take second place to its sheer unavailability: the
marriage of runny egg, wood-charred crackle and Matt Molinas own
guanciale rendered subsidiary to ou...

Meals On Wheels
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you noticed an unusual concentration of round spectacle frames


and Comme des Garons blazers downtown last week, you probably
ran into people in town for the Dwell on Design confab at the
Convention Center, which is sort of like Comicon ...

Celestino: First Date, Italian-Style


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: What would you recommend as a good rst-date


Italian restaurant more or less in the Pasadena area? Peter, Pasadena
Dear Peter: The good news is that Pasadena has a wealth of Italian
restaurants. The bad news is that most of ...

Snook Attack: La Chente


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever encountered pescado


Zarandeado? Beacause it is as
intimidating as an entre can get, a vast,
smoking creature split open at the
backbone and opped open into a sort of
skeleton-punctuated mirror image of
itself, wisps of stea...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr Gold: White Tablecloths,

129/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr Gold: White Tablecloths,


Good Wine & That Golden Light
7 years ago | Italian Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold:


What would you recommend as a good
rst-date Italian restaurant more or less
in the Pasadena area?
Peter, Pasadena

Hey, Cabron! Clayudas, cemitas, cheladas and crushed


grasshoppers in Huntington Park
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Pal Cabron is the latest outpost of the Guelaguetza empire, a gaudy


sandwich shop just off the main drag in Huntington Park, where the
walls are splashed with representations of the namesake mythic
dude: a slouching, beer-bellied guy perpetually w...

Eastside Bakeries After Dark


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im looking for a bakery/caf downtown, or better, in


Boyle Heights, thats open late and reasonably priced. It should be a
good, festive place for a group of friends to talk after a play. Serena
Dea...

Be Happy. Be Bottega Louie.


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the Bottega Louie


slideshow. Bottega Louie is the loudest
place in Los Angeles on a summer
evening, happy racket bouncing off the
triple-height ceilings, caroming off the
bare white walls and glancing off the
moldings, pinging ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Have Your Cake & Eat It


Late
7 years ago | Bakeries

Dear Mr. Gold:


I'm looking for a bakery/caf downtown,
or better, in Boyle Heights, that's open late
and reasonably priced. It should be a
good, festive place for a group of friends
to talk after a play.

Good Girl Dinette: Depression-Era Dining


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Now that Eagle Rock has become stroller-ridden, Echo Park rents
approach Santa Monicas and Silver Lake has practically become a
new Beverly Hills, Highland Park is the center of the new bohemian
life in Los Angeles, a neighborhood with grea...

130/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

life in Los Angeles, a neighborhood with grea...

The Green Village Preservation


Society
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


slideshow. Leeks with eel jam? Duck
soup? Yangzhou crabmeat spring roll
casserole? Braised pork knuckle with soy
sauce? If you have followed San Gabriel
Chinese restaurants over the last 15 years,
you have proba...

The Unmassacred Churro


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Maybe Ive missed something, but I havent found a
place in Los Angeles where I can enjoy airy, crispy churros that you
dip in hot, thick dark chocolate in the morning or for merienda cena.
And Im not talking abou...

Trader Vics Picks


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When the Earth and I were young, Trader Vics was among the most
magical places in Los Angeles, a wonderland of teak and thatch in
the hot corner of the Beverly Hilton, a paradise of pupu platters,
Crab Rangoon and Meats From Our Chinese Ove...

Eating in Encino
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where would one go for lunch with a group after a
high school graduation I mean, besides the school cafeteria in
the Woodland Hills/Encino area? Its bad enough sitting through one
of these things when it&rsquo...

Nickel Diner: Heart Attack and Main


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Nickel Diner:


Not Your Father's Diner But It Still Might
Kill You" slideshow. The motto of the
Nickel Diner is probably Home of the
Maple Glaze Bacon Donut, a slogan
inscribed both on the home page of its
Web site and in t...

Is San Diego a Restaurant-Impaired City?


7 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Wolfgang Pucks Bar & Grill Export at L.A. Live

131/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Wolfgang Pucks Bar & Grill Export at L.A. Live


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

At the heart of the L.A. Live complex, facing out down the mall
toward Staples Center, the vast Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill sometimes
feels like an experiment in sensory overload, all sound-stage lighting
and gleaming refractive surfaces, strobing v...

At El Montes Birrieria La Barca


Jalisco, spicy transcendence comes
in a molcajete
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "La Barca:


Maddening Charred Meat, Garlic and Hot
Tortillas" slideshow. To get to Birrieria La
Barca Jalisco, you pull off of Valley
Boulevard and take a hike past the backs
of dusty bridal boutiques and discountclothing s...

Ask Mr. Gold: Is San Diego a Food-Impaired City?


7 years ago | Beer

Dear Mr. Gold: My friend Oliver says you would know where to get
lunch in San Diego! Can you recommend a cool place? Merci! Gaelle,
Montreal ...

Conservative Tongues Wagging, Pig Ears Pricked Over


Supreme Court Justice Nominee's Food Preferences -- Or Why
Sonia Sotomayor Now Has the Full Support of Our PulitzerPrize-Winning Restaurant Critic
7 years ago | Food Oddities

Josh Marshall's Talking Points Memo picked up conservatives going


nuts over Sonia Sotomayor's eating habits: "A conservative source
really did draw a connection between Sonia Sotomayor's
gastronomical preferences -- traditional Puerto Rican cuisin...

The Return of Ludo Bites: And on the


Third Night, Ludo Created ...
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

On the third night of Ludo Bites, the


restaurant ran out of food. And I dont
mean it sold out of a dish or two, or that it
closed a bit early it ran out of pretty
much everything, so that when we
dropped by (with reservations) after...

Where to Buy Your Summer BBQ Protein


7 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

132/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Ive probably been to a dozen barbecues at friends


houses in the last month, and the routine of burgers and overdone
chicken is getting a little old. Any suggestions for my own barbecue?
And please dont point me ...

Mo-Chica: The Best Peruvian Ceviche


Might Be in a Warehouse South of
Downtown
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Mo-Chica: Best


Peruvian Ceviche - Soft, Tart, Brutally
Spicy" slideshow. The rst time I visited
Lima, not long after the capture of
guerrilla leader Abimael Guzmn, the
capital was still naked of tourists and
busi...

Advance First Bite: The Return of Ludo Bites -- And on the


Third Night, Ludo Created ... A Dinner Miracle. Chef Runs Out
of Food, but the Kitchen Show Goes On
7 years ago | Restaurant Openings & Closings

On the third night of Ludo Bites, the restaurant ran out of food. And I
don't mean it sold out of a dish or two, or that it closed a bit early -it ran out of pretty much everything.

Ask Mr. Gold About ... Barbecue Suggestions Beyond Burgers


and Overdone Chicken
7 years ago | BBQ

I've probably been to a dozen barbecues at friends' houses in the last


month, and the routine of burgers and overdone chicken is getting a
little old. Any suggestions for my own barbecue? And please don't
point me towards any of your beloved or...

First Bite: S'laked Thirst -- Fine Wine and the Return of Don
Dickman at Barbrix
7 years ago

When the L.A. Weekly ofces were located in Silver Lake what seems
like a millennium ago, the area could not have been more of a
culinary wasteland -- the only place within walking distance was
what may have been the single worst Mexican restaura...

Where to Eat ... PIZZA Now


7 years ago

ANGELI CAFFE Angeli crystallized the afnity of Angelenos for


casual Italian cooking the spaghetti alla checca, garlicky roast
chicken and minimally garnished pizza that a Sienese teenager might
eat for dinner at the trattoria down the bl...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

133/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

S'lake'd Thirst: Fine Wine and the Return of Don Dickman at


Barbrix
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When the L.A. Weekly ofces were located in Silver Lake what seems
like a millennium ago, the area could not have been more of a
culinary wasteland the only place within walking distance was
what may have been the single worst Mexican res...

Sin Carne: Looking for Mexican Vegetarian Cooking


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Would you happen to have a Mexican restaurant


recommendation for the unemployed vegetarian librarians budget?
Gracias, Emily, Silver Lake Dear Emily: If you were vegan, you
probably would ...

Craft of a Top Chef: Lost and Found at


Tom Colicchio's L.A. Spinoff Show
Craftbar
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Craftbar: Maximum--la-Carte"
slideshow. One of the most pleasant
meals Ive eaten this year was a spring
lunch at Craftbar, the small-plates bistro
tucked into the front bar area of the
restaurant...

Ask Mr. Gold: Sin Carne, Looking for


Mexican Vegetarian Cooking
7 years ago | Mexican Cuisine

Dear Mr. Gold: Would you happen to


have a Mexican restaurant
recommendation for the unemployed
vegetarian librarian's budget? Gracias,
Emily, Silver Lake ...

Tavern, Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's Westward


Expansion
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Brentwoods new Tavern is the kind of place the Westside has needed
for years, a big, comfortable space that functions as a gathering
place for the gentry without locking out the less well-heeled. The
airy complex incorporates a takeout coun...

Battle Burrito, L.A. vs. S.F.


7 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

134/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a friend in town from Berkeley who loves
burritos. What do you suggest? Im thinking of ignoring her habit
and forcing her to go for mole at La Tia instead, but she seems set in
her ways. Erica, L.A. Dear ...

Golden State's Beer Warriors, All


Hopped Up
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Golden State's


Beer Warriors: Burgers and Beer Floats"
slideshow. Might your idea of dessert be
expansive enough to include a beer oat?
Because if you are open-minded about
these things, it really can be a mind-bl...

Praise the Lard: Manteca, CA ... Home


of Healthy Schools
7 years ago | Food Oddities

When your town is named after the


Spanish word for lard (the result of a
proofreading error, it turns out), you have
to try harder.

Ask Mr. Gold: Battle Burrito -- L.A. vs.


S.F.
7 years ago | Burritos

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a friend in town


from Berkeley who loves burritos. What
do you suggest? I'm thinking of ignoring
her habit and forcing her to go to for mole
at La Tia instead, but she seems set in her
ways. --Erica, Los Angeles ...

Birdland: Oprah and KFC Infiltrate


Pho Shop Golden Deli
7 years ago | Poultry

How far-reaching was yesterday's


Kentucky Fried Chicken / Oprah.com
coupon promotion? At the San Gabriel
Vietnamese noodleshop Golden Deli, in
proximity to the best fried spring rolls
this side of Ho Chi Minh City, we spotted
employees huddled at ...

The Moviegoer: The Incredibly Useful Westside Tavern


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Where there are movies, necessarily there must be dinner nearby, or


at least a place to grab a microbrew to go with your half-digested
Claude Chabrol. And so, an escalator ride away from the Landmark

135/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Claude Chabrol. And so, an escalator ride away from the Landmark
dodecaplex, ground zero for subtitled cinema in...

How to Fry Right: Tonkatsu, Picking the Right Pig for the Job
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I lovetonkatsu, the little fried pork cutlets that they
serve in Japanese restaurants, but I can never quite gure out how to
make them in my apartment kitchen it always turns out too
rubbery, or too hard, or not really cru...

The Gathering: Guatemalteca's


Newest Snack and Chat
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos of Guatemalteca


pastries in the "Pastry Gazing at
Guatemalteca" slideshow. If youve
driven down Beverly Boulevard in the last
30 years, you may have noticed the line
that forms outside Guatemalteca on
weekends,...

Ask Mr. Gold: Pimp My Rib -- Caught


Red-Handed
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can you get really


good Chinese barbecued spareribs? I'm in
Silver Lake, but I'm willing to travel. -Susanna, Silver Lake...

Slurpees: Seeking the Bliss Factor at the Pacific Oyster Wine


Competition
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some people claim that the rst ush of golden poppies marks the
onset of a California spring. Others put it at the appearance of the
rst really good asparagus in the farmers market, or bee swarms, or
baseball season. But to me, spring doesn&r...

Pimp My Rib: Caught Red-handed


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can you get really good Chinese barbecued
spareribs? Im in Silver Lake, but Im willing to travel. Susanna,
Silver Lake Dear Susanna: There are a few schools of Chinese
spareribs, most of them good. I&rsquo...

Pork in the Time of Swine Flu: Mexico


City's Pig Cuisine, Snout to Hoof
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

136/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the pig cuisine


slideshow. Toasted corn has its place.
Chiles are indispensable. The
indescribable scent of achiote is key. But
well-made carnitas may be at the center
of the genius of the Mexican kitchen, a
process evol...

LA People 2009: Spokesmen Bicycle Oven's Josef and


Adam Bray-Ali
7 years ago | People

There has never been a city so jaded about personal transportation


as Los Angeles, a place where Lamborghinis clot valet stands,
customized Harleys are as common as Camrys, and the streets
thrum with more 64 Impalas the cars that bo...

LA People 2009: Vujachick Sasha


Watch Blogger Emily Ho
7 years ago | People

Have you ever seen Rosencrantz and


Guildenstern Are Dead, the Tom Stoppard
play that recasts Hamlet from the point of
view of the Danes two school chums,
their exits coinciding with their entrances
in the Shakespeare play? The Web site
sash...

LA People 2009: Brains and Beauty


Dr. Carol Miller
7 years ago | People

Its an amazing sight, Dr. Carol Miller in


her laboratory, an intent, bespectacled
woman bent over a bit of partially
dissected lobe, neatly labeled containers
of human brains towering at one side of
her, a worn brain schematic, which she
co...

Ask Mr. Gold ... About Dutch Babies


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, When I was growing up in the Midwest, I was very
fond of what they used to call German pancakes or Dutch babies,
puffy pancakes, as big as Mylar balloons, that were usually served
with powdered sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice. It...

Steaked Out: Argentine Food Beyond the Parrillada


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Do local Argentines eat anything but steak? Because
when I was in Buenos Aires last year, there were sh restaurants and
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

137/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

when I was in Buenos Aires last year, there were sh restaurants and
trattorias and fusion restaurants, plus a lot of chic chef-owned
bistros, but in Los Angeles it all seems like...

Sacred Cow: Carl's Jr., Padma


Lakshmi and a Drive-Thru Journey
Into the Pornography of Meat
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Padma Lakshmi, barely wearing a gauzy


off-white dress, clutching a plastic bag
presumably bursting with ripe fruit, glides
through an outdoor farmers market,
moving at a pace with which insomniac
cable-watchers may remember Bo Derek
emerging from ...

Big Beauty: Woodfired Pizza and Sam Marvin's Take on


American-Italian at Bottega Louie, Downtown's Huge New
Downtown Food Emporium
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For months, aesthetes staggering out of 7 Grand under the weight of


one too many Sazeracs have been wondering what lay behind the
fancy paper covering the windows of Bottega Louie across the street,
a former bank converted into a majestic food hal...

FIRST BITE: Big Beauty -- Woodfired Pizza and Sam Marvin's


Take on American-Italian at Bottega Louie, Downtown's Huge
New Downtown Food Emporium
7 years ago | Grocers

For months, aesthetes staggering out of 7 Grand under the weight of


one too many Sazeracs have been wondering what lay behind the
fancy paper covering the windows of Bottega Louie across the street,
a former bank converted into a majestic food hal...

Ask Mr. Gold About ... Dutch Babies.


Marion Cunningham's Hot and High
and Mighty German Pancakes
7 years ago | Breakfast

Dear Mr. Gold, When I was growing


up in the Midwest, I was very fond of
what they used to call German pancakes
or Dutch babies, puffy pancakes, as big as
Mylar balloons, that were usually served
wit...

Ask Mr. Gold: Steaked Out -- Is There Anything in LA's


Argentine Restaurants to Eat Besides Parrillada?
7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Do local Argentines eat anything but steak? Because
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

138/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Dear Mr. Gold, Do local Argentines eat anything but steak? Because
when I was in Buenos Aires last year, there were sh restaurants and
trattorias and fusion restaurants, plus a lot of chic, chef-owned
bistros, but in Los Angeles it all seems lik...

Reservoir of Flavor: Chef Gloria Felix Opens the Newest of


Silver Lake's Grown-Up Restaurants
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When the takeout shack Nettys opened in the late 1980s, it was in
retrospect the rst bowshot in the gentrication of Silver Lake, the
rst acknowledgment that the community might include residents
who knew about things like blackened ch...

Thin-Skinned: The Crisp Pleasures of Duck House


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, I wandered by the San Gabriel Beijing duck place Lu
Din Gee yesterday and noticed that it had been replaced by a Sichuan
restaurant. Any idea where to get good duck now? Titus Levi, L.A.
Dear Mr. Levi, Lu Din Gee isnt ...

In the Midnight Hour: Late-Night


Goat Supper at Bulrocho
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Goat Soup at


Bulrocho" slideshow. New Yorkers
consider it a sign of a superior civilization
that its bars stay open until 4 a.m.
Cosmopolitan Spaniards consider it
barbaric to eat dinner before 10 or 11. But
while i...

The Return of Ask Mr. Gold: Looking for Beijing Duck -- Lu Din
Gee Is Now Duck House
7 years ago

Editor's Note: The debut of Squid Ink, LA Weekly's new food blog,
also marks the return of Ask Mr. Gold, which went on hiatus at the
beginning of this year. Our Pulitzer-prize-winning critic Jonathan
Gold is available once more to take your questi...

This Week's Counter Intelligence:


Dom's and Subs -- Little Dom's Big
Easy Secret
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever tasted the fried potatoes at


Little Dom's? Because they're really pretty
extraordinary: little new potatoes boiled
to a point just short of squishiness, then
whacked with a heavy object, popped into
the deep fryer until they resemble...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

139/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

the deep fryer until they resemble...

First Bite: Susan Feniger's Street


7 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

When it opened in the 1980s, City Restaurant felt a lot like the future
of Los Angeles cuisine: a restaurant that absorbed the inuences of
both the local Asian communities and the exotic places to which a
reasonably hip Angeleno might be expecte...

Dom's and Subs: Po' Boys and


Meatballs, Little Dom's Big Easy
Secret
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the Little Dom's


slideshow. Have you ever tasted the fried
potatoes at Little Doms? Because theyre
really pretty extraordinary: little new
potatoes boiled to a point just short of
squishiness, then whacked ...

Back on the Street: Susan Feniger's World Cuisine


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When it opened in the 1980s, City Restaurant felt a lot like the future
of Los Angeles cuisine: a restaurant that absorbed the inuences of
both the local Asian communities and the exotic places to which a
reasonably hip Angeleno might be expecte...

Triumphal Disguise: Recast as Lunasia, the Suckling Pig Still


Crackles
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Triumphal Palace burst onto the dim sum scene with unprecedented
vengeance several years ago, a take-no-prisoners noncart operation
that instantly drew both Alhambra locals and bao-seeking
Westsiders for its giant siu mai, its tiny baked pork buns...

Rivera, John Sedlars return to the


kitchen
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Tequila Sunrise:


Rivera's Spanish Cuisine" slideshow. Is it
possible to begin a restaurant review with
a tracking shot? Because the entrance to
the new Rivera seems to require one,
following the stroll from the park...

Huckleberry Hounds: The Brunch Crush at Zoe Nathan's New


Cafe
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

140/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You could put a brunch sign up over a cell-phone store in Santa


Monica and a line would probably curl down the block. But Sunday
mornings at Huckleberry, the new bakery/caf from Rustic Canyon
pastry chef Zoe Nathan, come peri...

Celestino Drago's New City Cuisine:


Gravity of Centro
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the Drago Centro


slideshow. The most glamorous urban
view in the city, a backdrop that Gene
Kelly might have danced against, that
Georgia OKeeffe might have painted
before she moved out to the desert,
belongs to D...

The Fifth Element: The Umami Burger Challenge


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Behold the Umami Burger, the namesake creation of the snazzy new
burger hut on La Brea, a sandwich that rises high enough to put a
mere In-N-Out 4x4 to shrinking shame. The restaurant is dedicated
to the concept of umami, the savory, meaty ...

The Morning After: At Koreatown's


Bon Juk and Mountain, Porridge Is
the Cure
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


Mountain slideshow. The origins of
French cuisine have been well-rehearsed,
and much has been written about the love
of chiles as an endorphic response to
both oppressive tropical heat and
oppressive Hima...

Where to Drink Now: The New Cocktailian's Guide


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Jonathan Gold's "The New Cocktailians" feature and
view more photos in Anne Fishbein's cocktail slideshow.
BAHOOKA One of the last of the original generation of tiki joints,
which some assert are L.A.s real contr...

The New Cocktailians


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Click here for Jonathan Gold's "Where to


Drink Now" cocktail guide and view more
photos in Anne Fishbein's cocktail
slideshow. It is nearing one a.m., and the
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

141/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

slideshow. It is nearing one a.m., and the


music has started to fade, and the quarrel
that seemed so important over dinner has
alre...

Dumpling Quest: The XLB Factor Beyond Din Tai Fung


7 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Whats the next step up for fans of Din Tai Fung? Im
taking some friends out Saturday and they are die-hard dumpling
fans. Erica, L.A. Dear Erica: If by next step, you mean splendid
doughy Chinese things in addit...

Bamboodles: Packing a Rod


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's


"Packing a Rod" slideshow. You may
have huddled around the display kitchen
at Din Tai Fung to check out dumplings in
the making, or watched the noodle
fabrication at the old Chinatown
Mandarin Deli....

The Curious Palate: A Quizzical Lunch Spot


7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Ubiquitous Octopus? You mean the Palavering Pachyderm.


Right the Uxorious Unicorn. Every so often, a restaurant comes
along with a name so unresonant that it its from consciousness
wit...

Riva in Santa Monica: Fraiche's


Thierry Perez and Jason Travi
Translate the Modern Bistro Into
Italian
7 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in Anne Fishbein's Riva


slideshow. The Santa Monica
Promenade, exhibit A in any serious study
of local urban renewal, is a pretty good
place to nd an art book, a handmade toy
or a pair of jeans that doesnt quite sh...

Market Forces: Fig at the Fairmont Miramar


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The food scene in Santa Monica is famously governed by the


rhythms of the Santa Monica Farmers Market, the Wednesdaymorning institution that has become a weekly Woodstock of lettuces,
blood oranges and beets. Fig, the new loungy bistro in the Fai...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Eating for the Adrenaline Rush at

142/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Eating for the Adrenaline Rush at


Hengyang and Hunan Chilli Kings,
plus Yunnan Garden
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos in the "Adrenaline


Junkie Cuisine" slideshow. The action in
San Gabriel Valley restaurants at the
moment is in northern Chinese cooking,
kitchens serving the rough, plain dishes
of the vast areas north and east of Bei...

In the Wurst Way: Downtown's


Wurstkuche Serves Up Bohemia on a
Toasted Roll
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photographs in the


Wurstkche slideshow. There may be no
more universal pleasure in the world of
meat than a well-made sausage plucked
straight from the re, lmed with a
bubbling mantle of grease, and thrust at
you when it...

Provecho: Luxury Tacos With Grandma Wisdom


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Of the many high-end Mexican restaurants to open downtown in the


last few months, Provecho is the most recognizable as, well, a
Mexican restaurant. This isnt to say that your grandmother would
mistake it for El Torito or anything. There are...

The Korean Taco Justice League: Kogi


Rolls Into L.A.
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View a full gallery of Kogi photos in the


"Taco Truck 2.0" slideshow. Off a
deserted Rosemead side street, in a huge
parking lot backing up to the San
Bernardino Freeway, the Glendon
advertises itself as the rst boutique hotel
in the San ...

L.A.'s Original Fusion Dude Opens the Mexican Rivera


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It would be hard to overestimate the inuence of John Rivera Sedlar


on the Los Angeles restaurant scene. Twenty-ve years ago at St.
Estephe, not coincidentally the rst New American restaurant in the
South Bay, he was the original fusion chef,...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Scandinavian Three-Way: Conny Andersson's AK in Venice

143/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Scandinavian Three-Way: Conny Andersson's AK in Venice


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Abbot Kinney, the founder of Venice, was one of the freakiest city
fathers in history, a dude who got business advice from ghosts, and
loved orgies as much as he loathed Houdini. The Venice
thoroughfare named for him is a bit more conventional the...

Moles La Tia: Beyond the Magnificent


Seven
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos of Moles La Tia in the


"Getting Sauced in East L.A." slideshow.
Have you ever had a great Oaxacan mole
negro? Its a remarkable substance, really,
the thick, ink-black essence of up to 80
spices and aromatics, c...

Kris Morningstar's New Casa: Guac y Roll


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Since the crumbling City of Nightrooming houses were torn down to


make way for the Music Center more than 40 years ago, Bunker Hill
famously has been a Sahara of cuisine, occasionally punctuated by
outlets of one chain restaurant or another but ne...

Praise Cheeses: Jimmy Shaw's


Loteria Grill Spices Up Hollywood
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos of these dishes in the


Loteria slideshow. It is easy enough to
nd chicharrones de pollo in Los Angeles,
bits of chicken fried until they resemble
the emblematic fried pigskin.
Chicharrones of sh, rabbit and squid are
fa...

Air Apparent: Jose Andrs' Bazaar


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

No restaurant in years has opened with quite as much fanfare as


Bazaar by Jos Andrs in the new SLS hotel, an opera set of a smallplates restaurant designed by Philippe Starck, incorporating a Moss
boutique featuring $1,500 sconces...

Noodle Island: That Slurping Sound


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photos of these dishes in the


Noodle Island slideshow. Noodle Island
is the most genteel noodle shop in the San
Gabriel Valley, a mini-mall storefront
transformed into a fortress of calm, made
over with thickets of bamboo a...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

144/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

over with thickets of bamboo a...

The 10 Best Dishes of 2008


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View photographs in the "10 Best Dishes


of 2008" slideshow. Bok Jiri There is an
exquisite rite built around the eating of
fugu in Japan, heightened by danger and
avored with death, although restaurant
blowsh may be safer than res...

Milk's Chocolate Milk Shake: Better Than Yours


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd a good chocolate milk shake I


mean a really good chocolate milk shake? I like the In-N-Out shake
just ne, but there has to be something better out there. Rob,
Westdale Dear Rob: I miss the Fi...

Wrap and Roll at Nem Nuong Kanh


Hoa
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For photographs of these Vietnamese


dishes, view Anne Fishbein's Nem Nuong
Hoa slideshow. Brian Bullen, the guy in
charge of the lm ads here, is an eater
with a fairly specic obsession. If I write
about an Alhambra Chinese restaurant,
h...

"Man Bites World" Writer Running Out of Cuisines, Asks Mr.


Gold
8 years ago

Drago Centro: Celestino's Grand Gesture, Downtown's Big


Opening
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have been following Los Angeles restaurants for a while, you
may be as familiar with Celestino Dragos cooking as you are with
your own. The original Celestino was renowned for its fresh pasta in
the 1980s, and his Il Pastaio brought ...

The Year in Reading Food


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You know that scene in Annie Hall, when


Diane Keaton tells Woody Allen, as the
two are dividing their library after the
breakup, that all the books on death and
dying are his? When I look over at the
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

145/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

dying are his? When I look over at the


nightstand, taking quick inventory of
what I&rs...

A Merry Old Soul: Cedd Moses' Remaking of Cole's PE Buffet,


Philippe's French-Dip Rival
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Coles PE Buffet was heaven itself at one time, a dank basement bar
across the street from the old Pacic Stock Exchange habituated by
old businessmen, the occasional artist and barely solvent drunks
who had been rotting their livers there ...

Animal's Bacon-Chocolate Crunch Bar and Squiggly Thai


Sweets: Last Bites
8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im planning a unique culinary tour of Los Angeles


with my boyfriend and wanted to see if you could help me. I have
already gured out a restaurant for appetizers and drinks and I was
thinking we would do dinner at Opaque, a....

Pho Town: Noodle Stories From South


El Monte
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

View more photographs of Garvey


Avenue pho specialties in Anne Fishbein's
slideshow. Garvey Avenue, as it crosses
the Rio Hondo into South El Monte, is
where Asian redevelopment once went to
die in the San Gabriel Valley, where the
creaky t...

Looking for a Hot 3-Way: Chili, Cincinnati-style at Chili John's


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im originally from Cincinnati, where a bevy of chili


parlors (Skyline, Gold Star, Camp Washington) serves chili with
spaghetti (referred to as a 3-way). Of course, the coney (a hot dog
with chili and cheese) is also a staple,...

Getting Fraiche in Italian: Thierry Perez and Jason Travi's New


Riva
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

At Frache, sommelier Thierry Perez and chef Jason Travi reinvented


the Los Angeles wine bar as a casual-destination restaurant, a busy,
open dining room where the bottles came from Southern France and
the food hewed closer to decent bistro ...

Between the Lines


8 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

146/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago

Supersuckers: Masan's Tenacious


Tentacles and Fiery Monkfish
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For photographs, view Anne Fishbein's


slideshow "Live Octopus, Shrimp and
Urchins: Masan Restaurant's Writhing
Seafood." Korean restaurants, at least the
best ones in Los Angeles, tend to
specialize in a single type of food,
whether tofu or...

Every Reuben Is a Work of Art's


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My favorite sandwich by far is the Reuben, but so far
Ive been unimpressed by L.A.s offerings. Ive even been served
Reubens made with coleslaw instead of sauerkraut, which I nd
offensive. Im originally ...

Full of Beans: Vermont Serves Up Cassoulet


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Theres nally a nip in the air, and Im starting to think
about cassoulet, a dish with some ballast. Any ideas? Gregory,
Brentwood Dear Gregory: Cassoulet, the southwestern French
standard of meat and white bean...

XIV: Royal Tease


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the Rococo period of the Sunset Strip, when half the Vo-Tech
dropouts in the Midwest moved to Los Angeles with visions of
becoming the next Faster Pussycat or Pretty Boy Floyd, the Coconut
Teaszer was where dreams went to die, where fantasies o...

Farm Aid: Auntie Em's ProduceDriven Dreams


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For photographs of Auntie Em's, view the


slideshow here. Auntie Ems may be the
grooviest place in Eagle Rock on Saturday
afternoons, a converted bungalow a few
blocks from Occidental College, crowded
with punk moms, rogue artists, Ni...

Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential LA


Restaurants
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

147/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

For more photos, view Anne Fishbein's


slideshow of "Fierce Chefs and Fiery
Kitchens." If there were such a thing as a
Los Angeles cuisine, I suspect it would
probably be a lot like what they serve at
Houstons, which is to say the mar...

Political Palates: Obama's Taste for Kine Grindz


8 years ago

Local Eccentric: Jason Michaud lands his own place in Silver


Lake
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Chef Jason Michaud sometimes seems to be involved in half the new


restaurants in Los Angeles, diving into each just long enough to
install his artfully unpolished brand of Mediterranean cooking. If
youve had an artichoke croquette, socca ca...

Sorry, Fugu: Japan's blowfish may be


exquisite, but Korea's take at Dae
Bok packs a garlicky punch
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For photographs of Dae Bok, view Anne


Fishbein's slideshow here. In the farthest
reaches of Koreatown, on a side street in a
part of town where Spanish-language
signs outnumber Korean ones at least 20
or 30 to one, Dae Bok is about as intim...

Lofty Ideals: Bistro Ambitions at


Steven Arroyo's Church & State
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For photographs of Church & State, view


slideshow here. If you paid attention to
art in Los Angeles a couple of decades
ago, you probably spent a fair amount of
time on the outer reaches of Industrial
Street, where the exhibition space LACE...

The Nickel on Main: Downtown, Sunny Side Up


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A puff of toaster smoke, a mug of strong joe, a glass of carrot juice,


doughnut holes encrusted with crushed bacon even given the
gentrication of downtown, the Nickel is an apparition of a diner, a
few steps from what used to be consider...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

I'll Take Your Stinking Bishop: The Search for L.A.'s Funkiest

148/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

I'll Take Your Stinking Bishop: The Search for L.A.'s Funkiest
Cheese
8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Please recommend a great cheese that smells even
more like dirty feet than limburger cheese. Im looking particularly
for that sweaty, stinky, between-the-toes-after-workout aroma. Jon
Jr. Dear Jon Jr.: Im not su...

The Hits and Many Misses of


Michelin's Latest Survey of L.A.
Cuisine
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The night before the announcement of


this years Michelin stars, I was at Changs
Garden in Arcadia, an elegant Hangzhouinuenced restaurant headed by chef
Henry Chang, whose restrained, earthy
style became known to the local Chinese...

Must-Stops on a Spicy-Food Marathon


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im not sure if youve ever seen my blog,


foodmarathon.blogspot.com/. I want to follow last weekends
Koreatown food marathon with a Spiciest Food Marathon. Ive been
thinking about Orochon, El Super Taco, Ky...

Koreatown 1.0: A Food Diary


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For years, I had contemplated what my


rst dinner in Seoul might be like,
whether Id splash out on a meal of
barbecue or nd the bindaeduk that
would put all other mung-bean pancakes
to shame, discover a radically new radish
kimchi or ste...

Chicken-Fried Steak: Follow the Gravy Trail


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I know Im not in Texas any more, but I still need my
chicken-fried steak every so often. Any suggestions? Dave, West
Hollywood Dear Dave: For at least a couple of decades, my ready
answer for the chicken-fried s...

Octavio Becerra's Fine Palate


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you wanted to know why Palate Food +


Wine is the restaurant worlds favorite
new place to eat in Los Angeles this fall,
above even spots opened by such
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

149/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

above even spots opened by such


boldface names as Gordon Ramsay,
Laurent Tourondel and Kazunori Nozawa,
you could look...

Philippe the Original Keeps Dipping


8 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Everybody comes through Philippe the Original: movie stars and


guys whove managed to scrounge 11 cents for coffee, politicians and
city workers, families who drive once a year from Visalia to see a
Dodgers game, travelers alighting at Union...

Lawry's the Prime Rib: Give 'em Red Meat


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Twenty-ve colleagues from Seoul are coming to


town in a couple of weeks, and I need a place to feed them. We are
not a rich organization, but I want them to be impressed. Sam, Los
Angeles Dear Sam: Koreatown, of cours...

Best Ramen: Daikokuya


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Yes, we know about the old standards and the new, the austere
Tokyo-based chain with branches in local Japanese supermarkets,
and the impeccably credentialed noodle czars. We like the options at
Shin Sen Gumi, where you can dictate the rmness of...

Best Gelato: Bulgarini Gelato


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Leo Bulgarini is the wrong guy to mouth off to the day after his
beloved AS Roma squad drops a game to Genoa or Inter Milan, and I
suspect he cheered the bankruptcy of AIG as cosmic revenge for its
sponsorship of the hated Manchester U. His gelati...

Best Hot Dog: L.A. Street Dog at Fab's


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Los Angeles, as has been amply proven, is a melting pot of world hot
dog culture, a city where it is possible to nd persuasive versions of
Chicago hot dogs, New York street dogs, Okinawan-Jewish-Mexican
hot dogs, Dodger Dogs, Chinese hot dogs, W...

Best Bagel: Brooklyn Bagel Bakery


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

First-timers at the Brooklyn Bagel Bakery, a squat factory in a part of


town now better known for burritos and Filipino sinigiang, are often
put off by the display in the cramped retail vestibule, glass cases full
of blueberry bagels and strawberr...

Best Autocratic Sushi: Hiko Sushi


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

150/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago | Best of L.A.

There are famously two schools of Los Angeles sushi at the moment,
one of them, like Matsuhisa, looking to the global future of sushi; the
other toward the past. Some of the traditionalists, led by Kazunori
Nozawa, of Sushi Nozawa, take their sh...

Best Stinky Food: Jitlada


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Sometimes, were in the mood for something delicate, turbot


steamed in lemon leaves perhaps, or thinly sliced East Coast uke in
a nage of verbena and freshly picked chervil. Were a fan of delicately
scented soufes that vanish into...

Best Steak: Cut


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Mastro, Arnie Mortons, Wolfgangs, BLT Steak, Ruths Chris, the Palm
the city is awash in expense-account steak, empurpled slabs of
rare, prime beef seared on 1,000-degree grills, and ideally
accompanied by a bottle of C...

Best Shrimp Louie: Grill on the Alley


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Shrimp Louie, a goopy seafood salad dressed with a pinkly sweet


mixture of mayonnaise and sugary bottled chile sauce, was the
height of chic before World War I, a big-city dish served in every
restaurant of distinction between Seattle and San Dieg...

Best Roast Chicken: Grill Masters


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Angelenos are spoiled for choice when it comes to roast chicken,


from the smoky Peruvian-style chickens at Lolas or Pollos a la Brasa
to the garlicky Armenian birds at Marouch and Carousel, the soft,
savory hens at Brentwoods Reddi-C...

Best Fried Chicken: Kyochon


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

I often f ind myself drawn to the peppery fried chicken at Berthas, a


soul-food caf not far from Watts, and the crackly skinned fried
chicken with fermented tofu at Mission 261 may be the best dish in
that formidable Cantonese resta...

Best Pizza: Pizzeria Mozza


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

It is almost impossible to have a civil discussion about pizza in this


city of immigrants, because there may be no foodstuff so intimately
linked to ones sense of identity. People who grew up in New York
usually plump for Vitos or Mu...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

151/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Best Cupcakes: Oinkster


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

We are living in an age not just of cupcakes but of cupcakes with


publicists, exquisitely art-directed confections whose geometric
decoration owes less to Betty Crocker than to Josef Albers. Cupcake
manufacture seems to occupy the midlife-crisis P...

Best Cobb Salad: The Polo Lounge


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

The Cobb salad was invented at the old Hollywood Brown Derby
when owner Bob Cobb, faced with either an overfull refrigerator or a
starlet with troublesome bridgework, chopped the elements of a
standard chefs salad into chunks no larger than...

Best Cheesesteak: Philly West Bar & Grill


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

Despite the downtown sushi restaurant that has reimagined the


cheesesteak as an egg roll stufng, and the close approximations of
cheesesteaks assembled at both Vietnamese banh mi parlors and a
Jewish delicatessen in the deep Valley, the basic fo...

Best Burger: Comme a


8 years ago | Best of L.A.

There are a lot of things to admire about


Comme a. The selection of ripe cheese is
among the best in the city, and the braised
beef shoulder is exemplary. I love the
mussels steamed in cream and Pernod,
the hand-chopped steak tartare and w...

Chai Thung: Isaan Also Rises


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Its almost mind-bending, a good nam


kaow tod, the rustic Thai salad of deepfried rice grains and wetly pink Thai
spam, citrus and slivered herbs, a
kaleidoscopic whirl of crunchiness and
chewiness, sweetness and animal
pungen...

Petaling Their Wares: Desert Rose Opens Up


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Angelenos have always been suckers for programmatic architecture,


eager to eat chili in a chili bowl or munch on doughnuts under a 40foot cruller, drink beer inside a bucket or consume fried chicken
inside an abstracted KFC container. The giant m...

Gills Gone Wild: Why Free-Swimming Salmon Is Best


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

152/282

7/6/2016

Gills Gone Wild: Why Free-Swimming Salmon Is Best

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago

A Proper Brasserie: Alain Giraud's


Anisette
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There may be nothing quite as satisfying


on a quiet Wednesday afternoon as a late
lunch at Anisette brasserie, the chard and
nectarines from a morning at the farmers
market tucked safely in the trunk of your
car, your breakfast caffeine just start...

Get Stuffed on Arepas


8 years ago

Feel the Buzz at Szechwan Best


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst time I walked into Szechwan


Best, a cozy spot near an Alhambra
movie-theater complex, the opening
ceremony for the Beijing Olympics was
playing on a big at-screen TV legions
of bright acrobats, a torch-bearing
gymnast ying ar...

Kitchen 24: Bar Crawler's Banquet


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Its a hot Sunday noon, the Hollywood farmers market is shoulderto-shoulder, and the swell of the heirloom-tomato-crazed crowd
spills over into ... not Kitchen 24, actually, where, despite its location
just around the corner from the market...

Green Highlights: A Planet-Friendly Palate


8 years ago

Rocking the Rhetoric at the DNC:


Coachella for C-Span Junkies
8 years ago

What I Ate on My Summer Vacation


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

1. Southern Utah is an area of more rock


formations than people, where the
microwaved cinnamon roll at the Holiday
Inn Express may be as good as its going
to get all day. So it is not extravagant to

153/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

to get all day. So it is not extravagant to


suggest that Moms Caf may ...

Is There Anything Jonathan Gold Won't Eat?


8 years ago

Animal: Boys in the Hood


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Fairfax Avenue, as it slumps from Canters


Delicatessen toward the Silent Movie
Theatre, is a testosterone-soaked patch of
turf that might as well be called the Dude
District, a strip of dive bars, gear shops
and expensively retrotted stor...

Until the Green Door Opens Again, Where to Find Fish


Beignets
8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: We went to Green Village on Valley Boulevard today


only to discover that it was padlocked, with an eviction notice on the
door. Is there another Shanghai place anywhere near as good? And
where can we get those amazing sh beignets?...

Dog Days of Summer: Seeking


Sausage Satori
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

These are the trailing days of summer,


when dusk crowds into the afternoon and
tourists head back to France, Dodger fans
begin to contemplate their teams annual
slide, and the end of peach season is nigh.
A million backyard grills char 5 mi...

Tierra Mia Explores Coffee for the Latino Palate


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Were all used to the third-wave coffeehouses by now, the postStarbucks cafs like La Mill or Caffe Luxxe, where beans come not
just from Guatemala but from obscurely located ncas, where
baristas command more machiner...

Palate Food & Wine: Charcuterie That's a Cut Above


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:My husband and I just returned from a trip to


Vancouver, where we ate excellent dim sum, although I couldnt
persuade him to try poutine. But we also ate at a restaurant called
Salt that was basically a bar with a snacky charcu...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Earlez Grille: Hot Dog Thrillers

154/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Earlez Grille: Hot Dog Thrillers


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Across the street from the enormous West


Angeles Cathedral, next to a future
Exposition Line stop and close by a
Muslim school and humming ofce
complexes, Earlez Grille is a major
crossroads of the Crenshaw Strip, popular
with politicians, poets...

Crudo Bar & Ristorante: Getting Raw on the Strip


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A summer lunch at Crudo can feel a bit like an afternoon in Italy


the hot, still air; the beads of condensation trickling down your glass
of cold Vernaccia; the barked music of Italian conversation all
around you. (The place is already pop...

Kamiyama: The Way California Rolls


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My British girlfriend is coming to visit the U.S. in a


couple weeks, and she has requested American-style sushi. Weve
been teaching English in Japan for the past few years, so weve had
our ll of good, simple nigiri a...

Fab the Ripper: Every Hot Dog Has Its


Day
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When I lived in Manhattan, where public


transportation is king and parking is as
valuable as gold, friends would
sometimes joke that the only reason I
bothered to keep a car in the city was for
my trips to Rutts Hut, a sprawling hotdog sta...

Rush Street: A Man's World


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Downtown Culver City is newly rich in restaurants designed to


appeal to the feminine sensibility: places with big salads, places with
dreamboat chefs and dainty organic produce, places with wine bars,
and places where you could safely take your yo...

Piadina Lover Left Flatless


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have fond memories of childhood summers in a


small town named Cervia, on the Adriatic coast in the EmiliaRomagna region. And I have clear memories of walking to piadina
stands for a taste of that distinct atbread, which I loved...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

155/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Akasha, More Than Sustainable


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Having worked through its dark ages and


its well-documented renaissance, the
Culver City restaurant scene is entering
its mannerist phase, an era of sleek
surfaces and exaggerated details,
theatrical settings and food that coolly
dees nature. En...

Chef Govind Armstrong Turns Table 8 Into 8 Oz. Burger Bar


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It is a truth universally acknowledged: A chef in possession of a good


fortune must be in want of a hamburger stand or pizzeria or
something. However little-known the feelings or views of such a chef
may be on his running a restaurant in his neigh...

'Stan and Deliver: A Substitute for Uzbek Cuisine


8 years ago

Getting Stuffed at Arturo's Puffy


Taco
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

My friend Julie is one of those kitchen


samurai you sometimes hear about, a
woman who spends her year itting from
hotel room to hotel room, imposing her
will on corporate-owned restaurants in
every corner of the world. The nature of
the job can ...

Winning Ticket: Guilty Pleasures of Loteria Grill's Chicharron


de Queso
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are a fan of Mexican food, crunch and extremely well-done


cheese, the chicharron de queso at Lotera Grill may be a dish you
have waited for your entire life. Paper-thin sheets of toasted cheese
are peeled straight off the griddle an...

Canadian Club: Dusty's Draws in Poutine Heads


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently heard about the Quebec regional dish
poutine and am dying to try it. I have had great French fries and
cheese curds in Wausau, Wisconsin, but the two together with gravy
or poutine sauce sounds like heaven. Ty H., ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Circus Maximalist: Monique King's

156/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Circus Maximalist: Monique King's


Nine Thirty at the W
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Nine Thirty restaurant might be the


last place you would expect to nd a
culinary epiphany in Los Angeles,
jammed into the back of the Westwood W
Hotel, adjacent to a bottle-service bar,
past at least two velvet-rope gauntlets of
bouncers who...

Katsu Sushi: Your Moment of Zen


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Before there was Matsuhisa, before there was Nozawa, there was
Katsu Michite, the acknowledged sushi master of Los Angeles, whose
former art-lled Los Feliz sushi bar was one of the dening
restaurants of the 1980s, almost as noticeable for the ...

American Flatbread: The Anti-Steak of California's Central


Coast Wine Country
8 years ago

Dog Day Afternoon: Bites of Chicago


in L.A.
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

My father was obsessed with hot dogs, to


the point of distraction, and although he
could discuss Bellow, Shostakovich or
Jerome Kern for hours, he was happiest, I
think, expounding on the great
frankfurters of his youth: the taut,
garlicky specime...

Sushi Czar Kazunori Nozawa's Sugarfish: Built for Speed


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Kazunori Nozawa is well-known as the sushi tyrant of Studio City,


the chef who made his reputation almost as much for what he
refused to serve (California rolls; spicy tuna) as for his inuential
aesthetic of warm rice and lightly sauced sh, fo...

The Colombian Hot Dog Migrates to L.A.


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: When I visited Miami recently, I kept hearing about
something called a Colombian hot dog, which was dressed with
strange condiments nobody could quite describe. Fruit and
mayonnaise? Something like that. Is there such a thing as a C...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Stick Figures: Cumin-Dusted Xinjiang

157/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Stick Figures: Cumin-Dusted Xinjiang


Barbecue, at San Gabriel's 818
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Xinjiang barbecue is one of the most


compelling snacks in the world, thin
skewers of charred lamb snatched
bubbling from the grill, crusted with
cumin and dried chiles, dusted with salt
and Sichuan pepper, spurting hot grease
when the burning es...

Downtown's Brazilian Caf Wood Spoon


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It may be a little strange to start a review by praising a restaurants


tap water, but Wood Spoons really is the best in town: triple-ltered,
no doubt, served sharply cool, and avored with whole cinnamon
sticks, which give the wat...

Dim Sum When the Sun Goes Down


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Many years ago, there was an all-night dim sum caf
in Bostons Chinatown called the Bo Shek Caf. When I went to
Brandeis, we used to go get cheap dim sum up until 4 a.m., when
they would close for an hour to cl...

King Hua's Dim Sum: Breakfast, la


Cart
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Its 107 degrees in the San Gabriel Valley


sun, a blasting heat with a sulfurous,
hydrocarbon edge, and the sweating
hordes packed inside the lobby of the new
King Hua huddle under the one vent in
the room that even promises a bit of cool,
j...

That Sucking Sound: The Gross and Greasy Glory of Roasted


Marrowbones
8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Recently, we went on a trip to New York City and had
a wonderful dish of roasted marrowbones, parsley and sea salt at
Prune restaurant in the East Village. We loved it and we still
reminisce about the dish. Were willing to dr...

The Parisian Room: Alain Giraud's Anisette Brasserie


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Alain Giraud may be one of the least-known great chefs in America.


He was overshadowed by Michel Richard during his seven-year term
as chef-de-cuisine at Citrus, and his brilliant turn at Lavande, a
grand, Provenal-style restaurant above t...

158/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

grand, Provenal-style restaurant above t...

Tiara Cafe: Fashionably Fred


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Fred Eric is the house madman of Los


Angeles cooking, the screaming id, the
chef who has been most likely to succeed
since the 1980s. He worked with Joachim
Splichal at the dawn of the hypertechnical
era of Los Angeles cuisine, ran what were
argua...

Let There Be Meat


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the beginning, God created the heaven and the earth. And God
said, let there be bacon, and there was bacon. And God saw the
bacon, that it was good, and God divided the bacon from that which
was not bacon. And the Food Dudes, having brought for...

Fideua: The Poor Man's Paella


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where in L.A. can I get deua? I dont want paella.
Growing up Cuban I have eaten plenty of rice, and there is
something special about the sauce gooping up with the vermicelli
although dont get me wrong. Paella...

Renu Nakorn: Spicy Thai Hot Spot


Reopens
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Its practically a shrine, Renu Nakorn, the


site of nearly everybodys rst regionalThai restaurant epiphany, a storefront in
an improbably remote Norwalk strip mall
that just happened to feature catsh larb
instead of mint-leaf chi...

Three Drunken Goats and the Reign of Spain


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The march of the wine bars continues, small plates and boutique
vintages, glasses of Bourguiel and Bierzo sneaking into
neighborhoods where Sonoma Chardonnay may have been exotic
just a few months ago. Perhaps the largest wine bar to open in the l...

Soothing That Chacarero Craving at Tienda Rincon Chileno


8 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold, I have been craving a chacarero since I stumbled


across this the best sandwich on Earth next to Filenes Basement
in Chicago several years ago. Please tell me I can nd this
somewhere in Los Angeles so I can i...

159/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

somewhere in Los Angeles so I can i...

Chunju Han-il Kwan Draws Hungry


Night Crawlers With Its Budae Jjigae
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A spitting cauldron of superheated liquid


on a tabletop burner, ejecting droplets of
orange goo and puffs of sulfurous steam,
the budae jjigae at the Koreatown
restaurant Chunju Han-il Kwan is
alarming in aspect. Leaves of cabbage
careen across th...

Looking for Curry Laksa: Penang in West Covina


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Last time, I wrote to you regarding my endless search
for eel dishes; this time Im looking for a bowl of curry laksa, as
described by Madhur Jaffrey in a recent issue of Financial Times. I
live close to the Asian restaurants ...

Gordon Ramsay at the London West Hollywood


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Six years ago, I ew to England with the express purpose of getting


thrown out of Gordon Ramsays restaurant on Royal Hospital Road,
which with its three Michelin stars was ofcially the best restaurant
in London. Even then, before he had ...

Regional HQ for Spicy BBQ


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have ever poked your head into a


restaurant serving northern Thai cooking,
you have probably encountered nam prik
oom, a slippery mash made from roasted
hot chiles pounded in a mortar, a blackecked green substance customarily
scooped up ...

Octavio Becerra Goes Solo With Palate Food + Wine


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Chef Octavio Becerra has been a loyal accomplice to Joachim


Splichal since the Smiths were still playing live working in the
kitchen at both Patina and Max au Triangle, opening the Pinot
Bistros in Sherman Oaks and Las Vegas, helping to de...

Pretenders: Mock Duck


8 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold, While living in Minneapolis, my wife developed an


addiction to the mock-duck dishes especially the curry varieties
available at the many Vietnamese restaurants there. In our eight

160/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

available at the many Vietnamese restaurants there. In our eight


years here in Southern California, I...

a Star Is Reborn
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some restaurants emerge fully formed, rough edges smoothed by


architects and restaurant consultants, menus run through focus
groups, wine lists put into place by sommeliers who may never have
set foot into the ZIP code. Lot 1 is the other kind of ...

Eat, Like, a Pig


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im looking to purchase a whole suckling pig, and


although I found some online vendors, I cant seem to nd a local
source in Los Angeles. Considering how many Chinese and Filipinos
there are in this city, I am bafed ...

Mayura's Flavors of Kerala


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Jammed into a strip mall, sharing a


parking lot with a doughnut parlor, a
kebab house and a check-cashing
emporium, Mayura may be the last place
you would expect to nd a ne Indian
restaurant. But just up the road from the
Culver City hamburger...

Frangela
8 years ago | People

If you are promiscuous with the talkradio dial, you may have heard Frangela
coming at you on KTLK-AM 1150, a blast
of common sense amid the pasty drone of
their sub-Limbaugh competitors; a pair of
musical, nely meshed African-American
voices, p...

Where to Eat Now


8 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake Ciudad Glistening oysters at


happy hour. Fatally strong mojitos. Peruvian-style ceviches and
Bolivian-style tamales, Caribbean paella and a classic pescado
Veracruzana, Bahia-style moqueqas and a fritanga that woul...

Heavy on the Starch at Lola's


8 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: I want chicken and rice and French fries for lunch.
Leon, Pasadena Dear Leon: We could go to Oinkster if you want.
They have good chicken and French fries, and the purple yam shakes
you like. But I dont think they have...

161/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

you like. But I dont think they have...

Noriyuki Sugie guest stars at Breadbar


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If star DJs can jet from city to city, rocking essentially the same
house in cities from Berlin to Dubai to Los Angeles, there is no
reason why chefs, crates lled with sh and knives, cant do the
same. Breadbar, the high-end bakery/sandw...

All Hopped Up at The New Father's


Office
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It is undeniably pleasant, the new Fathers


Ofce Los Angeles, a gastronomically
inclined bar tted into the eastern ank of
the old Helms Bakery building, crowded
with people who know the difference
between a lager and a double IPA, at...

Brix @ 1601: The Newest Home of Rock-Star Sommelier


Caitlin Stansbury
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Caitlin Stansbury is one of L.A.s rock-star sommeliers, a whip-thin


woman with the haunted eyes of a lead guitarist and the ability to
make Greek ross and South African syrahs seem like the most
desirable liquids in the world. Her w...

Fried Chicken Wonderland


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, About 30 years ago I used to eat at Bills Chicken on
Lake and Washington in Pasadena. Bill served nothing but chicken
(and butter-soggy corn on the cob), thrown into a brown paper bag
with a couple slices of white bread. The ...

Fry Daddy: Well-Oiled at the


Thousand Cranes Tempura Bar
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Los Angeles Little Tokyo neighborhood


has often been considered the cradle of
real Japanese cooking in America
birthplace of the California roll, base to
century-old confectionery shops, the
nurturer of sushi restaurants during
deca...

Relighting the Fire: The Return of Renu Nakorn


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

While the expense-account crowd spent most of this year awaiting

162/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

While the expense-account crowd spent most of this year awaiting


overblown East Coast imports, the Thai-food cognoscenti paced
anxiously outside a gentrifying Norwalk minimall instead, worrying
as the crumbling surfaces were rebuilt in stuccoed pa...

Heads and Tails: Salt-Baked Shrimp


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Mon Kee Chinese Seafood in Chinatown closed in, I
believe, 2005. I have been in deep mourning for its rock-salt shrimp
ever since and have not been able to nd a duplicate. It appeared
that the preparation of the giant heads-on shr...

Keep On (Taco) Trucking


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The best thing I had to eat last week was a


massive carnitas huarache, from the
Gorditas Lupitas truck on Eagle Rock
Boulevard near Avenue 34. I ate it while
leaning against a warehouse wall in
Glassell Park, washed it down with a
bottle of...

Cook's Tortas, Westside espresso, Eastside spice


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Shoehorned into a former Hawaiian barbecue place, near where


Monterey Park runs smack into East L.A., Cooks is a new paradigm
of an Eastside restaurant, a spare, modern tortas caf, with the
chalkboard menu, the sleek pastries and th...

Fishing for Ceviche: Los Balcones


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Would it be possible to tell me some of your favorite


ceviches? I prefer pescado to shrimp. Im a little apprehensive about
how fresh/safe the ceviche is in cheapo places, but if you know a
safe, cheap place, that would be ide...

NYC's BLT Steak


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Here they come, the New York restaurateurs, installing clones of


their agships in expensive dining rooms in the meat of the
Westside: Craft, Simon, Bond Street, City Bakery, STK, even Nobu.
Not the least of these is Laurent Tourondels BLT...

Syrian Brunch Sundays at Sham


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

The Syrian restaurant Sham comes alive


on Sundays at noon, still early enough to
catch crunchy, spice-crusted disks of
warm zaatar bread from the Arab brunch
menu, but late enough to make a lunch of

163/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

menu, but late enough to make a lunch of


shish kebabs and lamby lake kebabs a
poss...

Yung Love at China Cafe


8 years ago

El Sinaloense: Let He Who Is Without


Sinaloa
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When you pull into the parking lot behind


El Sinaloense, a small, crowded Mexican
restaurant toward the southern edge of
Huntington Park, the rst thing you will
notice is the sheer number of customized
trucks. Gleaming, dark-windowed beasts,
pic...

La Mill After Dark


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I confess: Im kind of crushed out on La Mill. I know the coffee shrine


is more bourgeois than a lot of Silverlakistas might prefer, and
although Adrian Vasquezs croissants are beyond excellent, for a lot
of people they dont come ...

The Eternal Search for Chinese on the Westside


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My wife and I are having a hard time nding quality
Chinese (especially dim sum) and Vietnamese restaurants on our
side of town. For Asian food, the Westside seems like a wasteland.
Any suggestions? Eric A., Mar Vista Dear E...

Khun Dom: Undercover Thai


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

From the window of a car, Khun Dom


may look like the least-promising Thai
restaurant in Los Angeles, a weary, faded
building in a liquor-store parking lot, with
bars on the windows and painted-out
grafti on the walls that you have
probably spent...

La Grande Orange
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Phoenix, the original La Grande Orange, a bistro-ish place with a


knack for deviled eggs and spicy cheeseburgers, is often described as
a California-style restaurant. But transplanted into the expensively
retrotted Santa Fe depot just south o...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

164/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Getting Baked Alaska


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I have a food question. Do you know of a nice


restaurant that serves baked Alaska? Thank you! Andrea Dear
Andrea: Baked Alaska, broiled meringue mountains bearing
payloads of ice cream and cake, were almost ubiquitous on retr...

Square Meals at the Waffle


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Wafes are kind of a big thing in Hollywood. Roscoes has been


serving Harlem-style chicken and wafes to R&B stars since well
before Marvin Gaye got it on, and the Belgian wafes at the Farmers
Market have nourished generations of script...

Finding Happiness in a Slice of


Ibrico Ham at Bar Pintxo
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Ibrico ham, the latest obsession of the


food world, is the well-aged product of
cosseted Spanish pigs, at its best handsliced, arranged on a plate, and eaten
plain with the ngers, preferably while
one is sipping on a cold glass of no ...

Not Hot: Where's the Fresh Pita?


8 years ago

Jamn, Jamn
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Ibrico ham, the latest obsession of the food world, is the well-aged
product of cosseted Spanish pigs, at its best hand-sliced, arranged on
a plate, and eaten plain with the ngers, preferably while one is
sipping on a cold glass of no ...

A Week in the Life of Jonathan Gold's


Stomach
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

TuesdayWhen you have lunch at Caf


Pinot with one of the Four Masters of
Jameson Whiskey, certain rules apply.
The wine list will be gently but rmly
removed from your hands, and you will
drink this mans Irish whiskey with your
duck...

Akasha: Lord of the Rings


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

165/282

7/6/2016

Akasha: Lord of the Rings

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The best restaurant in Culver City? Half a dozen could claw for the
title. But although eco-friendliness is a hallmark of the new
downtown scene, the greenest restaurant is not in doubt. You could
take the entire executive board of Heal the Bay to...

A French Wrinkle: Prune Danish


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:Where can I nd a good prune Danish in Los Angeles?


I occasionally yearn for them, and my boyfriend is tired of my
complaints. Ive Googled, Chowhounded and yelped, and yet ...
nothing.Not Pruned Since Paris Dear...

La Mill: The Latest Buzz


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Whipped McGrath Farms Tahitian squash


soup with coffee-chile crme frache and
whole-wheat croutons? Hand-chopped
arctic char tartare turned out like a
terrine with quatre pices? Spicy
chocolate-chipotle mousse with avocado
pu...

The Mian Event, at Malan in Hacienda Heights


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: For the rst time in my life, I ate the Chinese version
of zhajiang mian. I had only eaten the Korean version of that oniony,
black beany concoction before. But what my aunt made me the
other night was amazing (her family is...

Nightlife Nobu
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Nobu Matsuhisa is the most inuential Japanese chef in the United


States, the father of a strange, original cuisine equally rooted in the
sushi kitchen, the informal izakaya, and the seafood preparations of
cosmopolitan Lima, where he rst made ...

Ciudad: The Great Leap Backward


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There is something magic about a leap


year, a year divisible by four. In
November, you get to vote against the evil
of your choice. In midsummer, tiny
gymnasts spend two weeks on TV. In
June, if you believe the Phil
Jackson/Lakers Leap Year Theory...

Daisy Mint: Fusion ...


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

166/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Sometimes you will do anything for a slightly better bowl of pho:


take a class in Vietnamese cooking, drive to Garden Grove, or book a
trip to Hanoi. And sometimes you want it the easy way. Daisy Mint is
a sweet new pan-Asian cafe near Pasadena Ci...

Ship Shape Sandwich


8 years ago

Dear Mr Gold: I need a good patty melt, man. Like an old-school,


East Coast, sit-at-Woolworth's-with-your-grandfather-while-hechain-smokes-and-talks-about-the-war kind of sandwich. I like
Paty's in Toluca Lake well enough, but I know that there i...

The New Du-par's: Over Easy


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Los Angeles, you can nd French toast


of every description: diner French toast
made with wheat bread and a smear of
yolk, upscale French toast made with
stale croissants, pillowy French toast
made with thick-sliced challah bread,
Italian Frenc...

Little Flower Candy Company Cafe


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are a person who thinks more of human happiness than the
state of her teeth, you probably have a bag of Little Flower caramels
stashed in your desk right now: chewy, buttery, melty lozenges
avored with vanilla, lemon or French sea salt, s...

Safe Bets for Brunch


8 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Every year my boyfriend and I bet on the Oscar
results ... loser takes the winner to the brunch of his or her choice.
This year I won big and I want to choose a brunch with amazing food
in a wonderful setting. Price is no object,...

Park's Barbecue: Prime Time


8 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Every self-respecting Korean-barbecue


enthusiast has at least a small portfolio of
restaurants to be pulled out for the
appropriate occasions: Tahoe Galbi for
dinner with the parents, Sa Rit Gol for
gourmet evenings, Castle for a boozy
night out w...

At Nigerian Eatery Saaris, America Is


Turning to Fufu!
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

167/282

7/6/2016

Turning to Fufu!

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Saaris is a cheerful Nigerian restaurant at


the southern end of Inglewood's Market
Street district, a storefront across the
street from the big post ofce, three steps
down, with African art on the walls. CNN
blares from the television set mounte...

Citrus at Social: The Best Fries of Your Life


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst thing you should probably know about Citrus at Social,
Jeffrey Chodorow's just-retooled restaurant dropped into the former
Hollywood Athletic Club, is that the French fries are cooked in
claried butter. Let me repeat that: French fries...

Dining Out After the Oscars


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Not everyone who attends the Oscars can go to the
studio parties or the Governors Ball. But after the three-hour show,
while looking fabulous, where can we go to dine at 9 p.m. on a
Sunday night? Been to The Ivy too many times. Some...

Breaking Free: L.A. Wine Culture


9 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

The magic of wine is this: Even at a


restaurant you don't particularly care for,
say a Venice wine bar populated with
trust-fund dudes and winking navel rings,
rubbery scallops and cured-meat platters
that wouldn't be out of place at the Olive
Gar...

Where to Eat Now: New to the List


9 years ago

The following are excerpts from reviews by Jonathan Gold that have
appeared in L.A. Weekly and have been recently added to our online
dining guide. To read about Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential L.A.
Restaurants for 2007 (and the Google map of the 99)...

Restaurants for Wine Lovers


9 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

A.O.C. The cheese-and-charcuterie-intensive inspiration for


basically all of the new generation of wine bars, Suzanne Goin's
A.O.C. is the kind of place you drop into for a glass of Cassis and
maybe a bit of octopus, then a glass of Sancerre ...

I Yam What I Yam: Mr. Pizza Factory


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Have you ever seen the Grand Prix pizza

168/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Have you ever seen the Grand Prix pizza


at Mr. Pizza Factory, a gleaming new
pizzeria in Koreatown? Because even in a
culinary crossroads such as Los Angeles,
the Grand Prix is a remarkable object.
This weighty, doughy construction,
swirled like a...

Joachim Splichal's Paperfish


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Like a powerful army with connections at the farmers' market,


Joachim Splichal's conquering forces continue to march through
Southern California, installing the chef's brand of glossy modern
cuisine in every corner of the land. And here is his new...

Fat Tuesday Temptations


9 years ago

Meet the Antipress: La Mill Coffee


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When you order a cup of aged Sumatran peaberry at the new La Mill
in Silver Lake, a coffee sommelier comes out to your table to explain
the nuances of the brew, setting down a willowy carafe encased in
tight, zippered neoprene and leaving an elect...

New Pork City: Eating Everything but


the Squeal
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The hippest dish among New York City


chef dudes at the moment is probably still
the pig's ear at the West Village gastropub
Spotted Pig, a huge, veiny appendage,
carefully deep-fried to a deep bronze,
presented naked and sputtering and
unadorned o...

Where to Find Beef Wellington


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: How could you mention the new book on Syrian
Jewish cooking in your column and not name the author? Jonathan
Roberts, Hollywood Dear Mr. Roberts: You, sir, are correct. The book
in question was almost certainly Aromas of Alep...

The Chosen Pancake


9 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently gave my wife a book on the Jewish foods of
Aleppo, Syria. Do we have any good ethnic Jewish food in the L.A.
area? Mark Brownstein Dear Mr. Brownstein: Ethnic Jewish food in
Los Angeles? There seems to be practical...

169/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Los Angeles? There seems to be practical...

Hunan Seafood: Top Catch


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is there a contest for the best steamed sh


head in the San Gabriel Valley? Because if
there is, the example at the new Hunan
Seafood might win the prize a
mammoth, silvery head, jaws agape, eyes
frosted in death, a half-inch of chopped
c...

Burmese Underground
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the crook of a Sepulveda curve, just


down the street from Titos Tacos,
Jasmine Market is an unassuming takeout
joint next to an old Radio Shack, a place
you would whiz by if road construction
hadnt immobilized southbound trafc i...

Where to Find L.A.'s Best Prosciutto


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Even from my own experience, I know there are
innumerable types of prosciutto. But, in your opinion, where in L.A.
can I get the best, or at least some of the best? Robert S., Los
Angeles Dear Robert: There are actually not a...

Double Dumplings
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are of a certain bent, you have probably spent many mornings
milling around the parking lot outside the original Din Tai Fung,
checking off too many items on the clipboard menu issued with your
queue number, waiting for your shot at a steam...

Where to Get Good Carpaccio


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Having recently married a vegetarian, Im now


suffering from serious beef withdrawals. Please recommend a
restaurant that serves a satisfying beef carpaccio. Rosalee Hite,
North Hills Dear Ms. Hite: You married a vegeta...

Tirupathi Bhimas Gets Regional


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Atop a newish mini-mall in Artesias Little


India, Tirupathi Bhimas is a glowing ying
saucer of a restaurant, a circular secondstory dining room ringed by windows that
look out toward other new mini-malls
sari emporia and jewelry ...

170/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

sari emporia and jewelry ...

Green Parties
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My friends and I were thinking of going to Chinatown


for a festive dinner. Can you recommend a place that has at least a
few vegetarian dishes and is more like a restaurant than a cafeteria?
Jennifer A., Hollywood Dear Jennif...

Top 10 Dishes of 2007


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Porchetta In Umbria and southern


Tuscany, porchetta is less a foodstuff than
a sacrament entire pigs stuffed with
garlic and wild fennel, roasted in special
high-heat ovens, and sold on weekends
from behind the counters in bars, on
outdoor...

Where To Eat Now


9 years ago

Mode: Fashionably Late-Night


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

On a deserted Fashion District block, a few steps from a dime-adance joint and anchoring what will probably be yet another new
condo strip, Mode is a cheerful beacon in the dark, a new 24-hour
brasserie for those of us who urgently need oysters a...

Upper Cut: Pacific Dining Car Steak


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im wondering if you know of any steak-house


restaurants between Monterey Park and downtown L.A. My friend
usually likes to go to the Venice Room in Monterey Park, but Im
looking for something new. Warren, Monter...

A Son of the Golden Deli Dynasty


Makes a Comeback with Vietnam
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Of all the well-documented marvels of


the San Gabriel Valley, perhaps none has
inspired as much devotion as the
Vietnamese noodle shop Golden Deli,
which has overowed its mini-mall
parking lot since the 1980s. Its a stickytable joint wit...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

I Can has Cheezburger?

171/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

I Can has Cheezburger?


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The cheeseburger paradigm has shifted a


lot of times over the last several years,
and I have been privileged to taste most
of the contestants, from the Kobe-beef
slider at Cut, to Hungry Cats pug burger,
to the burger at Manhattans d...

Emperor Taste Seafood


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Nothing excites a veteran San Gabriel Valley eater like a cheap-eats


ad in the local Chinese papers and a string of red good-luck lanterns
hung outside the entrance to a new restaurant especially the kind
of big-budget Cantonese banquet re...

When Bad Meals Happen at Good Places


9 years ago

NYC-Style Pizzaiolos Rated, Slice Against Slice


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Discussions of the virtues of the artisanal pies at places like Mozza,


Antica Pizzeria and Caioti are often conducted with the sort of
donnish decorum you might associate with cheese plates and tiny
little glasses of sherry; the best slice joints,...

A New Breed of Dog


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

With the opening of a 24-hour downtown brasserie, a Joachim


Splichal sh restaurant in the old Maple Drive space, a grand sushi
bar in the Eurochow space, a Japanese chain alighting in Century
City and a major expansion of R23, this is probably t...

Van Nuys: A Great Undiscovered Restaurant Neighborhood


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently moved to Van Nuys and cannot seem to nd
a gourmet restaurant anywhere! What I mean by gourmet is the
quality of the food. Any great ideas? Sara, Van Nuys Dear Sara:
Nobody would accuse Van Nuys of h...

N.W.A: A Hard Act to Follow


9 years ago

This article was originally published on


May 5, 1989. August 88: Eazy E props his
Air Jordans up on a desk, stares at the
ceiling, and leaves the room whenever the
beeper on his belt goes off, which is often.
He answers most of the reporter...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

172/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Michelin Tires
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you were a Frenchman entrusted with the task of assembling an


ideal Los Angeles dining guide, you might y in experienced,
disinterested inspectors to scour the mainstream restaurant scene,
supplemented perhaps by a team of locals familiar wit...

Comfort Food in Comfort


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The smell of paint was still heavy in the air last week, the grand
entrance still resembled a construction site, and work guys in
overalls clambered up and down the faade. But years after the
announced expansion, years of squeezing in like...

Frache Idea
9 years ago

My Taco: Frying High


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever seen a plate of carne asada fries? If done properly, the
dish is an awesome assemblage, a totem of unspeakable desires a
football-size construction of guacamole, gobs of melted cheese and a
mound of French fries that seems to...

Terroni: That's Italian!


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The strangest thing about Terroni may be the name of the restaurant,
a pejorative term for southern Italians slung mostly by hooligans in
the North, a rough word meaning peasant but with strong
overtones of mud people t...

Burrito's Kings
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I know this probably disqualies me from the human
race, but I am beyond tired of the kind of burritos you get at taco
stands. Im not quite looking for the burritos I enjoyed as a boy in
rural Pennsylvania, but there has to ...

Ribbed for Her Pleasure


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You may have visited barbecue stands built around tall chimneys,
barbecue stands surrounded by dozens of barrel smokers, and
barbecue stands so rickety that they seemed to be held up by the
inch-thick patina of petried smoke on the walls. The ol...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

173/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Dining la Cart at Whole Foods


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I was not surprised to nd myself in a tapas bar yesterday,


contemplating a glass of 98 Clos des Mouches premier cru white
Burgundy while swabbing a sliced baguette through a runny smear
of triple-crme Brillat-Savarin cheese. But i...

Where to Find Frozen Custard


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Yogurt seems to be all the rage these days, but when I
was in Las Vegas recently, I ate at a custard shop near the
Stratosphere called Luv-It Frozen Custard, and I liked it a lot. I also
like Vegas, but I dont want to have to...

Where to Eat Now


9 years ago

Click here for LA Weekly's full, searchable database of restaurants.


Downtown L.A./Chinatown/WestlakeKim Chuy The basic deal at this
noodle shop is, of course, the noodles: slippery rice noodles or
rmer, square-cut egg noodles, submerged in brot...

White Gold
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I stopped by Drago the other day and spoke with the
head honcho about the upcoming white-trufe season. He said he
got his rst shipment, but he was biding his time. You can never
trust the rst shipment, he said. W...

Transcendent, Transitory Tapas


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Imagine an unsweetened bowl of oatmeal, tinted leprechaun green


with pured parsley, avored with garlic, swimming with the black,
elongated, frankly unattractive bodies of fried escargot. The slippery
texture of the oatmeal mimics what we...

Cereal Thrillers
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Chicago a few years ago, as the nations food press frothed about
the citys role at the front of the molecular gastronomy movement,
the excitement among 10-year-olds was about the Wacker Drive
restaurant Cereality, which specialize...

A Federal Case
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Most Los Angeles Mexican restaurants once seemed to be more or


less the same, bastions of enchilada dinners and soggy chiles
rellenos, Mexican pizza and a carnitas plate if you were lucky. I
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

174/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

rellenos, Mexican pizza and a carnitas plate if you were lucky. I


once proposed a law that would revoke the ...

Foodie Floor Show


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Theres a Mexican restaurant in New York Citys


Sutton Place neighborhood called Rosa Mexicano that has long been
popular for preparing guacamole at your table. Though Ive been a
food fanatic in L.A. for the bette...

Globavore or Locavore
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Twenty-ve years ago, Michaels, the Santa Monica restaurant that


helped jump-start California cuisine, was famous for the exotic
sourcing of its ingredients. The birthplaces of many of those
ingredients were listed right there on the menu....

Valentino for the Rest of Us


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Valentino has long been L.A.s ultimate special-occasion Italian


restaurant, a bells-and-whistles place where you reserve a table
weeks in advance when youre approaching an anniversary,
promotion to partner or a birthday divisible by ...

Blind Tasting
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I was watching CSI the other night, and a ridiculous
murder took place in a restaurant where everyone eats in pitch dark
and the waiters are blind. I hear that this is a real restaurant called
Opaque, and its not in Las Vegas...

Salad Lovers, Get to the Point


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There can be beauty even in a quick-serve ofce-building canteen


Josiah Citrin and Rafael Lunetta taught us that at Lemon Moon. But
even in downtown Culver City, a neighborhood as thick with great
sandwich shops as practically anywhere ou...

Tired of Thai
9 years ago

Remembering Casa Biancas Sam Martorana


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst time I stepped into Casa Bianca, I knew it was the pizza
parlor I had always hoped to nd in California, perfumed with a
whomp of garlic, alive with the roar of customers who had been
clustering around the checkered tablecloths for deca...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

175/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Where to Eat Now


9 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake E3rd Steakhouse Someday,


when each of us is forced by redevelopment-agency storm troopers
to eat supper in atmospheric Coldplay-soaked downtown fusion
restaurants at 1 a.m., we may grow a little nostalgic for the d...

Kumo: On a Roll
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The southwest corner of Kings Road and Melrose is where good


restaurants go to die, the original address of Ma Maison damning
future occupiers like a curse on a tribal burying ground; Tulipe, Jozu
and Citrine falling like so many swatted spiders. ...

Happy Meals
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently got a new job in Culver City. Im curious to
know if youve found affordable places in Culver City for lunch.
Other than fast food, I havent found anything that has cost less than
$10. Michael De...

Larkin's Soul Revival


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Blink and youll miss Larkins, a converted house in a newly


refurbished corner of Eagle Rock, just a few yards from where you
rush down the enormous slope heading off the Foothill Freeway, at
the back of a corner lot where you would e...

Counter Intelligence
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake Ebisu How many izakaya are


there in Los Angeles? How many grains of sand lie upon Zuma
Beach? Ebisu, named after the nightlife-intensive Tokyo
neighborhood, is the newest restaurant from the people behind the
splen...

Stop the Music!


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I need your help. In my experience, a good number of


restaurants play music that is too loud to allow one to converse
while dining, let alone savor the food. I have a number of times asked
to have the music turned down, or at least ...

Best Whey Out


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A platter of the right kinds of cheese, accompanied by the


appropriate condiments, could probably start a party all on its own,
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

176/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

appropriate condiments, could probably start a party all on its own,


the splendid ooze of ripe raw-milk Epoisse tangoing with a owery
El Porfaio, a creamy Fourme dAmbert knocking ...

Best Emergency Protein


9 years ago | Longform

L.A.s Chinese and Vietnamese communities are riddled with artisan


jerky shops, places where you can get not just a half dozen kinds of
beef jerky, including one blown out to resemble sawdust, but pork
jerky, chicken jerky and a yellowish cu...

Best Fizz
9 years ago | Longform

Most wine merchants realize that they are basically in the service
industry, there to atter your exquisite taste, talk the talk, maybe at
the outside to nudge you toward an Oregon Chardonnay instead of
the Napa stuff youve been drinking s...

Best Soup Dumpling


9 years ago | Longform

Xiao long bao, Shanghai-style soup dumplings, are primary objects


of desire in the San Gabriel Valley, hermetically sealed demi-orbs
lled with minced pork and potentially lethal doses of scalding-hot
juice. Sometimes the soup dumplings will be e...

So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish


9 years ago | Longform

It is still dark when I wake up, and I pad down the stairs to put
together one last breakfast of biscuits, eggs and juice before the rest
of the family gets out of bed. The biscuits are made with cultured
Vermont butter and the soft, ne our I ...

Fresh Fish and Frog at Hong Yei


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There are a lot of new Sichuan restaurants in Los Angeles real


ones, staffed by chefs from Chungking or Chengdu, most of them
with splendid cold-appetizer cases, decent dan dan mien, and food of
a numbingly hot complexity most of...

Brooklyn Bagel's Hole Foods


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: As a native New Yorker, I have yet to nd a decent


bagel west of the Hudson River. Most of the so-called bagels here
dont deserve to be called by that name. Is there anywhere in L.A.
that sells something approaching a New Yo...

Frache Airs
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

177/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the new Culver City, where the creative arts are to the citys job
base what automobiles are to Detroit, Mediterranean-inuenced
restaurants multiply like limited-edition giclee prints, and there is
probably not a garage or a warehouse d...

Magical Mystery Tour


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

To the small, food-obsessed population of Angelenos who know the


difference between a sliver Jabugo ham and a chunk of mere jamon
serrano, Bastide is the Montrachet-slinging equivalent of Willy
Wonkas chocolate factory, with Space Jam auteu...

Red Scare at Boiling Crab


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the 18 hours and 43 minutes since my last meal at Boiling Crab, I


have taken three showers, washed my hands thirty-seven times,
soaked in the juice of four lemons and scrubbed twice with a
stainless-steel bar. I have brushed my teeth six times,...

The Missing Rice Table


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Whenever we are in Amsterdam, we always try to


take in an Indonesian rijsttafel or rice table. Do you know any
Indonesian restaurants in L.A. that serve this? I know there are
Indonesian deli/fast-food places around, b...

Where To Eat Now


9 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake ADCB?Ciudad Glistening


oysters at happy hour. Fatally strong mojitos. Peruvian-style
ceviches and Bolivian-style tamales, Caribbean paella and a classic
pescado Veracruzana, Bahia-style moqueqas and a fritanga that...

Bollinis Pizzeria
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

At the bottom tip of Monterey Park, in a neighborhood better known


for its tacos than for anything Chinese, Bollinis is an unlikely bastion
of real Neapolitan pizza, a narrow storefront serving as a
rudimentary support mechanism for the mag...

Neat, With a Twist


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd a decent plate of the feta, mushroom
and grainladen treat known as Neatloaf? I dont just want it by itself
either. I want it with piping-hot veggie-gravy-smothered mashed
potatoes! I went to art school...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Close to the Flames

178/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Close to the Flames

9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Even the quickest glance into Flame, the slick Iranian restaurant on
the Tehrangeles stretch of Westwood Boulevard, reveals the shiny
clay sphere at its heart, a giant tiled eyeball, its pupil shooting re,
constantly tended by men who prod the b...

Flying High at Takami


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst thing you should know about Takami, a new Japanese-ish
restaurant on top of the 811 Wilshire building downtown, is that it
offers a splendid view of the rooftop pool at the Standard, which
means, if you are so inclined, that you can spy ...

All in the Familia


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I heard somewhere that you visit four or ve


restaurants for every one that ends up in a column. I realize that
most of the rejected places are probably pretty bad, but you must be
holding something back. What restaurants are you k...

Mac Daddy: Las Nuevas and Cemitas


Poblanas Elvirita
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

This column was supposed to be about


Las Nuevas, the popular sandwich shop
in the Calle Primero district of East L.A.
The shop is marked with a battered old
TORTAS sign outlined in neon, and a
notice in the window reads El Rey...

Lenchita's: Corn Star


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For some people, discussions of


Lenchitas begin with the massive
weekend lines: Pacoimas minivan set,
Dodger-lidded four-generation families,
hot CSUN kids out for a Saturdaymorning bowl of albondigas a vague,
undifferentiat...

Good to Go
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Less a restaurant than a sleekly upscale deli, a source for fashionable


cured meats, exotic trufed cheeses from the Veneto, impeccable
meatball sandwiches, Kobe-beef pastrami, and a pistachio cookie
than which there is no other, Po...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Case Sensitivity

179/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Case Sensitivity
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Im not a wine person. It does a number on my


stomach, especially if its empty. In most cases, Ill take a cheap
North American beer or respectable gin martini over a bottle of vino.
But aside from a sore belly, w...

Northern Light
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Twenty-ve years ago, back when most


Northern-style Chinese cooking was still
being prepared by Cantonese guys who
couldnt have found Tianjin on a map, the
original Mandarin Deli was a revelation, a
Chinatown dive that introduced Los
Angel...

Tandoor at Heart
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A collaboration between an American chef, a chef newly arrived


from India and the Mumbai-based restaurant chain Gaylord,
Tanzore is a new attempt to reinvent the modern restaurant as a
place with a tandoor oven at its heart. Sleek and modern in th...

Hearts On Fire
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: A Peruvian-born co-worker is jonesing for


anticuchos, marinated and grilled beef heart. She has been to
Peruvian restaurants all over the city but has yet to nd the dish on
the menu. Do you know of any place serving this? A...

Where To Eat Now


9 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake Izayoi Izayois mastermind is


chef Junichi Shiode, the whiz who used to run Sushi Ryo, one of
those rare secret addresses beloved by chefs seeking a cuisine that
many customers didnt even know it serve...

Where to Eat Now


9 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake Capperi Restorante Little


Tokyos Capperi, where almost all of the customers are Japanese,
may be the most orthodox old-style Italian restaurant in Los
Angeles, a living museum of the sights and smells that m...

Pig Love
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Like most sensible people, Im obsessed with all
things pig. My birthday is coming up and Id love to have 12 people
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

180/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

things pig. My birthday is coming up and Id love to have 12 people


sit around a table at a place that worships the animal as much as I
do. I did Normans last year ...

Flame War
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The kua kling Phat Tha Lung at Jitlada


may be the spiciest food you can eat in
Los Angeles at the moment, a sweet, thick
brown curry tossed in a wok with
shredded beef, a turmeric-rich endorphin
bomb that is traditionally one of the
hottest mouthf...

Chop Shop
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Former Mayor Richard Riordan may be famous for his custodianship


of the Original Pantry, the gritty 24-hour chophouse that has been
feeding Los Angeles since the Depression, but you are more likely to
run into His Honor at a place like Valentino o...

Get Stuffed
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd Chicago-style deep-dish pizza? My


favorite in Chicago, Lou Malnati, does mail order, but I dont exactly
trust it this time of year. And dont tell me Zelos. Its good, but its not
th...

Bird Is the Word


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I pan-fried 75 pieces of chicken the other


day, legs and thighs from sustainably
raised chickens that I had brined in salted
buttermilk, dusted with our and fresh
herbs, and sizzled in the unholy brew of
lard, butter and country-ham drippings
pr...

Soup Opera
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Even if you have never heard of Bae Yeon


Jung, an hour or so at her BYJ Restaurant
may make you as familiar with the former
Korean sitcom star as any veteran couch
potato in Seoul. Her portrait, eyebrows
raised, head cocked in a pose that sold a
m...

Praise the Lard


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

9 years ago

181/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Since you have already managed to turn the
restaurant section of the Weekly into something resembling the Los
Angeles Review of Lard, where do you nd good lard in Los Angeles?
Not that sour stuff in the red cartons, but something ...

The Big Idea


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The historian Isaiah Berlin once famously divided writers into foxes,
who it around among experiences, and hedgehogs, who are
devoted to a single organizing principle. Among chefs in Los
Angeles, perhaps in the world, Nancy Silverton is the most...

Slab City
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Weve talked about lardo before, I think,


the traditional cold cut from the ancient
Colonnata quarries innorthern Tuscany:
slabs of pure, white hog lard cured for
months in special cofn-shaped basins
hewn from marble. You see lardo pretty ...

La Carte Gogo
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When the original Craft opened in Manhattans Gramercy Park


neighborhood, it was a fantasy restaurant, put together by a man,
Gramercy Tavern chef Tom Colicchio, who actually called his
cookbook Think Like a Chef, a place where customers wer...

Pressed Success
9 years ago

Pressed Success Where to nd the best Cuban sandwich Dear Mr.


Gold: I was wondering where I would be able to nd a delicious
Cubano sandwich and some strong Cuban espresso. Ellis Song, Los
Angeles Dear Mr. Song: Cuban sandwiches, those di...

House of International Pancake


9 years ago

House of International Pancake Where to nd Yemenite atbread


Dear Mr. Gold: An Israeli friend bet me that I could not nd any
decent Yemenite Jewish food in L.A., in particular the local version of
atbread, known as melawach. Can you help me...

A Swish Best Served Cold


9 years ago

A Swish Best Served Cold Hot and bothered over red wine protocol
Dear Mr. Gold: So Im in Axe last night, ordering what surely would
be a delicious $16 glass of Zin from Turley Vineyards, one of my
faves. Its served to me at room temp...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

182/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Al Langer: The Counterman


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

{mosimage}When I am showing rst-time


visitors around Los Angeles, I like to take
them for a pastrami sandwich at Langers,
the old-line Jewish delicatessen across
the street from MacArthur Park. By the
time they get to the place, either fr...

Small Talk
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Recently Ive developed a craving for sliders. Ive tried
them at Hamburger Hamlet, the Counter, the Arsenal and French 75.
So far Ive liked the Counters best. Help me with my research: Who
do you think has...

Garbanzos!
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When Wolfgang Puck decided to stop


serving foie gras in his restaurants earlier
this year, many of us thought it would
leave a yawning gap. Other American
chefs, especially in Chicago, had taken
foie gras off their menus, but in most
cases it wasn...

99 Essential Restaurants: The


Metropolitan Palate
9 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

{mosimage} If you frequent a certain kind


of restaurant, it may seem that every Los
Angeles meal includes dandelion greens
and pork belly, a broth of Spanish chorizo,
and three kinds of Oltrepo Pavese by the
glass. If your tastes swing in other di...

99 Essential - List Only


9 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Abode A theme park of ostentatious sustainability, Abode is a


loungey place where the neo-Balinese decorations are wrought from
recycled wood, the menu pays at least lip service to farmers-market
produce, house-made charcuterie and ecologically co...

Get On Your Grill


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

I scream, you scream, we all scream . . . for grilled cheese. And for
those of us who are nostalgic for Mozzarella Monday at Jar, for
whom Thursday Grilled Cheese Nights at Campanile do not come

183/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

whom Thursday Grilled Cheese Nights at Campanile do not come


often enough, there is now Meltdown, a shiny, fast-f...

Beyond Kebabs
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:I miss the soul-warming homemade Afghan food in


Fremont up in the Bay Area and the amazing Afghan haute cuisine at
Helmand in Boston. Does L.A. have any good options?Mailan
CaoDear Mailan Cao:The Los Angeles area was once fair...

Magnum Opus
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Opus occupies huge, awkward quarters


tted into the Wiltern building 17 years
ago for Mario Tamayos Atlas, a supper
club with pan-Latin food that probably
wasnt much better than what your
aunties served at bridge parties in the
1950...

West Hollywood Ho!


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:Any suggestions as to what Troubadour-adjacent


dinery might be good to take the Meat Puppets out to dinner? Allow
me to treat you to some serious Belgian beverages at Lucky
Baldwins in the near future.Dave Shulman, The ...

The Chili Chemist


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

This is probably the moment where I


should evaluate Hoffmans chilis, to note
that the Roasted Garlic Beef has at least
three levels of garlickiness; that the
Tecate chili, made with beer, is heavily
seasoned with cinnamon; that the
Durango,...

Getting Frache
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Again we are in Culver City, where new, vaguely Mediterraneaninuenced restaurants multiply like roly-poly bugs after a rain. And
again, we are in the presence of stripped brick, an open kitchen, an
ambitious wine list rich in Rhones, and women ...

Hen Party
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

{mosimage}Veiled in steam like an idol


from a 1930s serial, samgyetang, chickenginseng soup, ranks rst among the
massive roster of Korean morning-after

184/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

massive roster of Korean morning-after


tonics: broth, salt, a tiny hen stuffed with
glutinous rice and aromatics, whose
health-givi...

The Patina of Youth


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For devotees of clean, precise, market-oriented global cooking, it can


be argued that the heyday of Patina may have been as important a
crucible of Los Angeles dining as Spago was a decade earlier. Patina
was the laboratory where a generation of y...

Yeast From the East


9 years ago

Hot Fusion
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There is the classic Chinois model of fusion cuisine, which is to say


Asian avors and techniques introduced within the context of
European cuisine. There is the Matsuhisa model, which introduces
Western avors into Japanese structures. And then...

Grade A-Won
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Like its more rice-intensive counterpart


bi bim bap, hwe dup bap is an interactive
creature that doesnt really come into
existence until you mix it together, tossing
and stirring, sluicing the salad with as
much sweet, hot chile paste as yo...

Wine n' Burger


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:I have a burger-loving friend coming to visit, and Im


at a loss to nd him a great burger in L.A. Fathers Ofce has a great
burger, but I dont like the roll it comes on or the scrum; there are too
many Tommy&rs...

Hot-Pot Pocket
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:My boyfriend has been craving what he calls Korean
hot pot. He said they crack a raw egg on top and it comes with all
sorts of little sides of kimchi and other goodies. His birthday is
coming up soon, and I would like t...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Sadao City

185/282

7/6/2016

Sadao City

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Down the street from the big Serbian


temple, not far from Vietnamese noodle
shops, a Taiwanese restaurant where the
waitresses dress like Navajos, and the
most rened Mexican restaurant in the
San Gabriel Valley, the CambodianChinese restaurant ...

Jaime Martin del Campo and Ramiro


Arvizu
9 years ago | People

Los Angeles, if you look at it a certain way,


is the second-largest city in Mexico, with
a bigger Mexican population than
Guadalajara, Veracruz or Puebla, and
arguably a cultural presence within
Mexico second only to Mexico City as
well. But until...

Dave Naz
9 years ago | People

One of the most disturbing images to


appear on the Internet this year may have
been Dave Nazs snapshot of his
girlfriend, Orianna Small, still groggy
from anesthesia, with her freshly
extracted wisdom teeth arranged into a
loose mound on her...

Alex Weiser
9 years ago | People

I dont know Alex Weiser, but the farmers-market legend has spent
more time in my kitchen than the teakettle these past few years.
Summer sees Weiser Family Farms tomatoes, superpungent
Charentais melons and obscure Persian melons; in fall, t...

A Bite at the Apple


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:I grew up in New York eating terric, oily, foldable
pizza everywhere I went. I have now lived in Pasadena for 30 years,
and Id never go back to N.Y. But I miss the pizza. Is there any pizza
in Los Angeles that comes close to...

Where To Eat Now


9 years ago

Downtown L.A./Chinatown/WestlakeChop Suey Caf From 1935


until it faded away 50-odd years later, the Far East Caf was a
mainstay of the Little Tokyo neighborhood, with battered wooden
booths, tall ceilings and a neon Chop Sue...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

186/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Shell Game
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Imagine the bliss: a dozen glistening


oysters marking the perimeter of a heavy
plate of ice, dewy brine gathering in the
cups of their deep shells, the black-edged
anges of the naked animals still inching
at the approach of a fork. These are v...

Studies in Chocolate
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

You have tasted pea soup, Im pretty sure of that. You may have
tasted fresh pea soup lightened with mascarpone. But I suspect you
have never tasted the pea soup on the menu at the new Santa
Monica restaurant Abode, which is dotted with clot...

Raw Sensuality
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I am hoping you can let me know of a restaurant that
is risqu, inexpensive .?.?. and serves delicious sushi. Im celebrating
a birthday and could use a really sexy night out. The naughty-sushi
place on Sunset is too pr...

Sole Food
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

{mosimage} Half of Highland Park bellies


up to the counter at El Huarache Azteca
#1 on weekend afternoons, guzzling
housemade horchata, tepache and
watermelon drink out of foam cups the
size of oil cans; hovering over the few
oilcloth-covered tabl...

Do Fries Go With That Ube Shake?


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

{mosimage} There are a lot of ways to


cook a French fry. You could sizzle a
basketful of precooked frozen fries in hot
oil, which can sometimes produce a
spectacular result as at Coras in Santa
Monica and even, reputedly, at the Nap...

Vietnamese Tabletop Barbecue


9 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

The Taste of Things to Come

187/282

7/6/2016

The Taste of Things to Come

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Under the awning of a decaying mini-mall last Saturday, past the


samples cart, around the shuttered barbecue stand and tailing out
into the sunbaked parking lot, hundreds of people patiently waited
for a peek at the new Bulgarini, hungry for the f...

Where To Eat Now


9 years ago

The Artful Diner


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My girlfriend is an artist, and shes working hard to


teach her love of art to children. She has a birthday coming up, and
Ive been racking my brain for a great romantic dinner location that
would complement her artisti...

Bottle Opener
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Buenos Aires? 14th arrondissement Paris? The San Lorenzo district


of Rome? Its hard to pinpoint exactly what the view from this
bistros picture window calls to mind, but the panorama of trees,
century-old buildings and whooshing Gold...

Low and Slow


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever tasted the pozole at La


Casita Mexicana? Its wild stuff, that
pozole, a dark broth deeply scented with
meat and chiles and unpronounceable
herbs, juicy shreds of pork, and uffy
kernels of blue hominy whose ragged
edges are c...

Omakase Warrior
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you been here before? the waiter


at Hiko Sushi asked as I hovered near the
back door. Because if you havent, I need
to explain some rules. He furtively
glanced over his shoulder. First are
you...

Swede Spot
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:Friends once told me about a traditional Easter pastry


they loved in Sweden I forget all the details, but the phrase
marzipan-sweetened cream has for some reason lodged in my
head. Do you know what Im tal...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

188/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Squared Roots
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Square bowls? Square spoons? Square layout? A cubical log cabin


constructed from girders of herbed feta and olive-oil-slicked
watermelon? In the former location of Merida, the beloved, longdefunct Old Pasadena patio restaurant famous both for its...

The $11,000 Coffee Pot


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: A couple of weeks ago, the L.A. Times wrote about an
$11,000 machine that supposedly made the best coffee in the world.
Have you ever tasted it? Is it better? Is it better enough to drive
across town for? Im a Peets gi...

Red Menace
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

{mosimage}Id like to begin this weeks


column by pointing out that while I enjoy
a certain level of heat in my food, Im not
a chilehead, not a real one anyway. A
roasted habanero is delicious in its place,
and I enjoy the more ...

Brings All the Boys to the Yard


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst thing you should know about Milk, Bret Thompsons new
dairy-intensive caf in the Art Deco space that used to house
Richard Tylers atelier, is that it doesnt actually serve milk, at least
not cold, frothy and u...

Dessert Wasteland
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently moved to L.A., and Ive been searching for a
good dessert spot. Im not just looking for a bakery or coffee shop
type of place. You may be familiar with the San Diego dessert
restaurant/bar/caf Extraor...

Crullers That Bloom in Spring


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

{mosimage} Have you ever seen a


strawberry doughnut from the Donut
Man? It is an iceberg of a doughnut, a
attened demisphere big enough to use as
a Pilates cushion, split in two and lled to
order with what must be an entire basket
of fresh str...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Good, Better, Best

189/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Good, Better, Best


9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:Whats the best Armenian restaurant in town? An


Armenian co-worker says Carousel is that really the gold
standard?Sharan, MalibuDear Sharan:I am writing this still full
from a meal at Phoenicia, the Lebanese-Arme...

Alba-cado Groove
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Someday, when each of us is forced by redevelopment-agency storm


troopers to eat supper in atmospheric Coldplay-soaked downtown
fusion restaurants at 1 a.m., we may grow a little nostalgic for the
days when late-night dining downtown meant the Pan...

Alive With Pleasure!


9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Newport Seafood is an insanely popular


Vietnamese-style Chinese restaurant in
the same San Gabriel mini-mall as Golden
Deli and the puzzlingly named Sichuan
dive Noodl House. The lines go out the
door, and the tables are lled with big
groups of ...

Yuca Mountain
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Cholesterol fans, there is a new mountain


to climb, a peak that may soar above chili
fries and the In-N-Out 4x4, above even a
sizzling slab of Jars nest llet and a
pork pump from one of the
Shanghainese restaurants that co...

Angel Food
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

First, there was Angeli. Then, a couple of decades later, came nearby
Angelini, which was a little confusing but okay Angelini was, of
course, the name of the chef. Now, just a block or two down from
Angeli is the chic new AllAngelo...

Digest to Impress
9 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold,My dads in town, and he and his wife are famously
anti-L.A. They want to take me to a special-occasion restaurant,
someplace youd never go to or couldnt afford on your own. Any
suggest...

Do You Copy?
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

190/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are in the habit of visiting Vietnamese noodle houses in the


San Gabriel Valley, the newish pho parlor Saigon Flavor, down near
the Great Mall of China, may seem awfully familiar. The photo-mural
of the rushing waterfall seems like somethin...

A Little Italy
9 years ago

Mood Indigo
9 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

I have spent too much time in downtown


lounges over the last few months, supping
on martinis and crab cakes alongside the
antique turbines at Edison, martinis and
crab cakes in the converted loading dock
at Royal Clayton, martinis and crab cakes
a...

Fusion with Vision


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Tuna tartare? Yep. Sweet braised short ribs? You bet. Hamachi
carpaccio? Of course, with ponzu gele and citrus dust. On paper, as
well as in the sleek re-and-water motif of its design, its extreme
feng shui and its Thai-basil mojitos, Ce...

Sweetheart Deal
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The ne arts are ve in number, the


19th-century chef Carme once wrote,
painting, sculpture, poetry, music and
architecture whose main branch is
pastry. In the 1820s, pastry was the rock
& roll of the m...

Naked Pasta
10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: At the Spotted Pig, a restaurant in the West Village
unfortunately better known for Jay-Z sightings than for the food,
which is really good, you can get something called gnudi, which to
my untutored eye look a lot like herbed ricott...

It Takes a Village
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In London, you can usually tell a so-called gastropub from an


ordinary sort of pub by the presence of a wine list, a menu that
includes foodstuffs that dont happen to be fried sausages or offalstuffed pies (not to mention the existence of ...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

191/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Haggis the Horrible


10 years ago

Seeking Chichen Itzas Hot Spots


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Chichen Itzas habanero salsa is a mindaltering substance, a thin golden liquid


with a faint citrusy scent and just
spectacular heat, a presence that starts off
with a slightly acid tingle at your lips and
travels the way a sizzling fuse mi...

The 20 Best L.A. Italian Restaurants


10 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Imagine your rst trip to Italy, the


stumbling journey through the airport,
the long train ride into Rome, the jetlagged taxi ride to your hotel. After a
quick shower, you realize that the lunch
hour is drawing to a close, so you walk a
block or...

Italian L.a.
10 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Numero Uno If you want to know why Vincenti may be the single
best Italian restaurant in Los Angeles, you could do worse than to try
a plate of burrata and prosciutto, a dish that sounds so dull on paper
that I almost stopped my daughter from orde...

Where to Eat Now


10 years ago

Baran Does every big restaurant in the kebab-intensive blocks of


Westwoods Tehrangeles have the same menu? Is there a zoning
ordinance that mandates barg kebabs and the insanely sour pickles
called torshi, skewered chicken and...

Godmothersand Spicy Meatballs


10 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Marios Italian Deliis a happiness explosion, a 45-year-old market as


crowded as a Wilshire bus, heroic dives for the Take-a-Number
machine, and subs, mammoth subs, stuffed with mortadella or spicy
sopressata, eggplant parm or meatballs...

list of restaurants
10 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

THE ITALIAN AMERICANSWhen the Moon Hits Your EyeDid


Micelis invent Hollywoods idea of what an Italian restaurant should

192/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Micelis invent Hollywoods idea of what an Italian restaurant should


be, or did Hollywood invent Micelis? Owned by the same family
since 1949, Micelis is an ancient, ba...

A Real Pickle
10 years ago

Chili Con Carney's


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Los Angeles was once famous for


restaurants and cafs where you could eat
inside buildings that resembled bull
terriers or windmills or the front range of
the San Gabriels. Dining rooms were
tricked out to resemble medieval palaces
or tropi...

Fungilicious
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A trufe is a terrible thing to waste. White trufes, the early fall ones
from Alba, sure: Pay two hundred clams, shave it over some
tagliatelle, done. Youd have to be a dunce to ruin a white trufe,
which is pungent enough to stop traff...

Tails, You Win


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: One of my favorite dishes is braised oxtail. Given how
delicious oxtail is, its a wonder that I rarely see it on any menus. It
seems to be an unsung meat in this country, which is a real shame. It
probably suffers from bad PR...

Noodles With Attitude


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Japanese pop culture has a lot to be


snobbish about, from mochi ice cream to
Gwen Stefanis latest clothing line, Iron
Chef to tentacle porn, J-pop to noise
metal, and from T-shirts that double as
ne art to Suntorys World Executive ...

Veal Oscar
10 years ago

Super Du-par's
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Until its Farmers Market agship closed a couple of years ago, Dupars was the last of Southern Californias quality-obsessed coffee
shop chains, vendors of Midwestern-style coffee, vivid-yellow

193/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

shop chains, vendors of Midwestern-style coffee, vivid-yellow


chicken pot pies and date-nut bread sm...

Waiting for Shwarma


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you want to receive more hate stares


per second than a Wal-Mart executive at
an L.A. Conservancy meeting, you might
try ordering the last bit of shwarma at
Arax Falafel on a Saturday afternoon,
having the nal shreds of extremely welldone mea...

Hot From the Kitchen


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A great dim sum meal is the closest that


restaurant-going comes to a fever dream,
an endless pageant of tin trays, ceramic
plates and stainless-steel baskets, circles
of bamboo and deep ceramic vessels,
processions of boiled vegetables,
simmered v...

What a Pair!
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When its 3 a.m. in Hollywood and you want a chiliburger, you head
for Tommys. If you need a bowl of noodles, Sanamluang. But when
that very particular hunger kicks in and only a plate of fried
morning-glory stems will do, it is Ruen ...

Bowled Over
10 years ago

The New California Pizza Kitchen


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Reasonable minds in Los Angeles may


differ on matters concerning child
rearing, the Lakers and the precise
theological leanings of the One True God.
Zionists hang out with Palestinians,
Republicans yearn after libertine lefties,
and Thai menus are...

Fo' Schnitzel
10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I am starting to worry that with Schatzi on Main


closing and no other high-prole Austrian restaurant left, Austrians
and friends of Austrian cooking will have to completely forget about
schnitzels and pork roast with dumplings, le...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

194/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Carte Blanche
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The discovery of a new dish, said Brillat-Savarin, does more for


the happiness of mankind than the discovery of a star. And with
apologies to our ne neighbors at NASAs Jet Propulsion Laboratory,
the discovery o...

Where To Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park LA99 Haru Ulala Los


Angeles is in the middle of an izakaya renaissance, an explosion of
intimate, beer-soaked taverns ipping out beakers of sake, small
plates of tofu and braised seaweed, and small,...

Eat Like a King


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

First comes the concept, in this case a swank 1920s supper club
realized by rearranging the bones of a hotel dining room that by all
accounts actually did start life in the 1920s as a luxurious supper
club, and then hiring a bona de chef, here E...

Boozy Breakfasts
10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently saw Fargo and was inspired to wonder
whether there was a pancakes house in Los Angeles that also has a
full bar. Or, rather, vice versa a bar that has pancakes and/or other
breakfast delights (served...

All Too Hunan


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Like a lot of Angelenos, I learned to eat


Hunanese food at Charming Garden, an
elegant dining room that was part of the
churning second wave of Monterey Park
Chinese restaurants, strategically
positioned across the atrium from
Empress Pavilion, wh...

The Royal Treatment


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A blast of Coltrane, a agon of Fat Tire ale, a atiron steak with


roasted cauliower and a Sichuan peppercorn sauce Royal
Claytons, a tavern just a whiskey bottles toss from the Los Angeles
River, is home to all kinds of ameniti...

Heres the Scoop


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

10 years ago

195/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I read your rave about Bulgarini Gelato, and I rushed
over to the Pacic Asia Museum, and what did I nd? Thats right: no
gelato. Where, pray tell, do I nd this miraculous stuff? Or do I have
to wait for the Pasadena Pink...

Straight to the Duck Heart


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Duck-Heart Cassoulet Bistro K is a


restaurant out of a daydream, with a
kitchen that ranks among the best in
greater L.A. Its run by the gifted and
accomplished French chef Laurent
Quenioux, where you can indeed must
bring y...

Hot-Wired
10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, One of the highlights of a recent trip to Peru was the
standard morning cup of caf con leche a little bit of a thick coffee
base, hot milk and a spoonful of raw sugar. They were some of the
most perfect cups of coffe...

Velvet Goldmine
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the new downtown Los Angeles, you are never more than a few
steps from a shot of Pravda, a DJ or a plate of tuna tartare the only
things that seem to be multiplying faster than $800,000 condos in
crumbling warehouse buildings are the hy...

Red Hots
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you are looking for a proper


representation of hellre, the grill at
Dinos Burgers may be as close as you will
get, a sulfurous, smoke-belching
landscape of re and ashes, sputtering
gouts of orange ame, and stacks of
chickens, dyed ...

Electric Meals
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have ever dreamed of dining in a media womb, uWink Media


Bistro, in one of the endless Warner Center malls, may be your idea
of a perfect restaurant. Every at surface is a video screen, and every
resonant space echoes like the inside of C...

Get Your Goat


10 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Where in Los Angeles can one get goat meat? I grew up eating West

196/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Where in Los Angeles can one get goat meat? I grew up eating West
Indian goat curries in NYC, but I havent found the L.A. source.
Jessica Gadsden Dear Jessica: Pretty much every Jamaican
restaurant serves something like the curried g...

Flesh and Bone


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever tasted Kobe beef? Not the


admittedly decent Idaho-raised
wagyu/Angus cow, but the real stuff, the
$200-a-pound steaks imported from
Japan? A whole llet of Japanese beef, as
wrapped in ninja-black cloth and carried
around by the bee...

Return of the Hairy Crab


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The new Green Village is the fanciest


Shanghainese restaurant in town, a gently
lit warren of white tablecloths and private
dining rooms in the old second-oor
Kings Palace space in a sleek San Gabriel
mall, all braised sea cucumber and ol...

Sideways at Vertical
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Vertical is probably the swankest wine bar in Old Town Pasadena, a


high-design joint jutting from a hidden courtyard on Raymonds
restaurant row, all subdued lighting and gleaming surfaces and
hidden corners, with sleek DJ music and bottles ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Chocolate Chip Cookies


10 years ago

Dear Mr.Gold: Every time I drive past the old Famous Amos building
on Sunset in Hollywood, I get nostalgic. As a kid in the mid-1970s I
thought Famous Amos were the best cookies I had ever had: the
balance of crispiness and molten chocolate, the s...

Dining With the Stars


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Manhattan, fall is the season when the


big restaurant openings traditionally
happen, when the megalithic new
canteens in the Meatpacking District open
for business, the latest whims of Food
Networkblessed chefs are realized in
granite, s...

Believe the Hype


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

197/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst patrons of Pizzeria Mozza paced the sidewalk outside the
restaurant like they had been waiting in line for three days to get the
rst shot at a PlayStation 3. Because never in decades of restaurantgoing in Los Angeles have I ever exper...

Ask Mr. Gold: Takoyaki


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I recently read an article about takoyaki, a kind of


octopus dumpling. It sounds like takoyaki is all the rage in Japan,
and soon in California. Do you know if and where I can nd them in
Los Angeles now? Nina Rubin Dear Ms....

Shanghaied Again
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When Green Village took up residence in San Gabriel several years


ago, its directness of avor and use of vegetables set it apart from
most of the Shanghai-style restaurants in town, which largely
concentrated on the heavier, sweeter end of the e...

Ask Mr. Gold: Beef Stroganoff


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: When my brother and sister and I were 50 years
younger, our parents would take us out to the old and now
unfortunately long-gone steak houses of Los Angeles. There was not
a menu that didnt include beef stroganoff. Nowadays t...

Hot Choclo
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A good pastel de choclo is magnicent to


see, an enormous concoction, bubbling in
its earthenware vessel, browned and
smoking and yellow as a van Gogh
sunower beneath its fragile, sugary
crust. When you plunge a spoon into the
mass, an almost v...

Where To Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles Coles P.E. Buffet. Seventy-ve years before


anybody thought to dress a squab salad with raspberry vinegar, Los
Angeles was known across the country for French-dipped
sandwiches, sliced roast meat layered on a French ro...

Ask Mr. Gold: Conch Fritters


10 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: In the two years I lived in Miami, I got hooked on a
South Florida specialty conch fritters. Now that Im in L.A., I cant
help but miss them. Is there anywhere around here to nd a good

198/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

help but miss them. Is there anywhere around here to nd a good


conch fritter? Ka...

Flavor Zone
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Does every big restaurant in the kebab-intensive blocks of


Westwoods Tehrangeles have the same menu? Is there a zoning
ordinance that mandates barg kebabs and the insanely sour pickles
called torshi, skewered chicken and the t...

Mish-Mash
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have no idea what a Bulgarian


restaurant is supposed to look like,
Danube might be exactly what you have
in mind, a narrow Westwood storefront
equipped with banquettes that are slightly
too large for the room, a scattering of folk
artifacts...

Ask Mr. Gold: Favorite Cookbooks


10 years ago

When the Bao Breaks


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The waitresses at Arcadias northernChinese Noodle House tend to be


comfortably bilingual, as long as your
concept of bilingual encompasses
speaking both Mandarin and Cantonese.
In Arcadia, perhaps the most traditional
of the ...

Groovy Noodles
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

How many new izakaya are there in Los Angeles? How many grains
of sand lie upon Zuma Beach? Ebisu, named after the nightlifeintensive Tokyo neighborhood, is the newest restaurant from the
people behind the splendid noodle shop Daikokuya, which in...

Where To Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles/Highland Park ?LA99? Ciudad. Cuchifritos


at happy hour. Fatally strong mojitos. Peruvian-style ceviches and
Bolivian-style tamales, Caribbean paella and a classic pescado
Veracruzana, Bahia-style moqueqas and a fritanga that w...

Showing Pinkberry
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

199/282

7/6/2016

Showing Pinkberry

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Have you ever been to Pinkberry on a


balmy Saturday? Its really a scene. Lines
spill down the block and through the kind
of crowd-control stanchions you may
have seen at Disneyland, while a bigshouldered security guard regulates
admission ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Duck Fat


10 years ago

Bar Wares
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The similarity between the Spanish tapas bar and the Japanese
izakaya has been long noted both are places where the cooking is
subsidiary to the drinking, where immoderate consumption is both
encouraged and facilitated, and where the porti...

Ask Mr. Gold: Asht-e-resht


10 years ago

First Bite: Some Pig


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you approach Colorado Boulevard just right, on the blocks west of


Eagle Rock Boulevard, you will be hit with the smell of wood smoke,
a formidable, fragrant blast drifting from the peaked-roof dining
room that until recently was a branch of the...

Hello, Thali
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Dinner at Rajdhani can resemble the


Sorcerers Apprentice sequence from
Disneys Fantasia sometimes, a parade of
waiters and waitresses stopping by your
table in bewildering succession, ladling
drips of this and drops of ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Pot Stickers


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold:Pot stickers where? James, Pacic Palisades Dear


James:A pork-lled northern Chinese pot sticker is a wondrous
thing, softly pliant above and glossy-crisp below, maddeningly
fragrant, trickling juice at the merest to...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Glass Action

200/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Glass Action

10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The tables at Bottle Rock are the size of phonograph records, and the
wobbly metal stools seem perpetually on the verge of collapse. The
location, tucked behind a parking structure, is obscure, even if it is
just a step or two from Culver City&rsq...

Pleasures of the Flesh


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Buenos Aires is one of the great culinary


destinations in the world, home to superb
seafood restaurants, to century-old
trattorias that are probably more
authentic to the ideals of Campanian
cuisine than many places youd nd in
Naples, and...

Dangerous Denizens of the Deep


10 years ago | Longform

Best Leviathan Mama Voulas. O, the


leviathan, the kraken, the wily giant squid,
a violent, oozy beast that overturns great
ships, or so the legend goes, wrestles the
life out of sperm whales in the murky
depths, swallows up whole schools of...

Ask Mr. Gold: Spaghetti Aglio e Olio


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Ive been looking for a good spaghetti aglio e olio, a
seemingly simple dish that is almost always overblown when you get
it here. I want the real thing: spaghetti with enough garlic to strip the
chrome off a trailer hitch and...

First Bite: Bon Appetit


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Dinner at Canele, a new Southern French restaurant in the old


Osteria Nonni space in Atwater, can feel a lot like crashing a dinner
party, with oddly minimalist dcor, people you probably know and
friendly but puzzled waitresses who aren&rs...

Ask Mr. Gold: Salvadoran Pupusas


10 years ago

Home Is Where the Flat Iron Steak Is


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Larchmont Grill wants to be loved, really it does, a comfortable


restaurant on the ground oor of an old transitional Victorian, with
earnest postcollege waitresses, real iced tea and an affordable (main
courses under $20) menu that is as worn in...

201/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

courses under $20) menu that is as worn in...

Bring the Funk


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The last time I went to Izayoi, a sleekly


modern izakaya on the edge of Little
Tokyo, my party was seated in a front
dining room not quite wide enough for a
stout man to stand in sideways. The
particularly delicious morsels of grilled
yellowtail c...

All in the Famima!!


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Behold Famima!!, a chain of clean, welllighted convenience stores in the nicer


parts of town: chilled regiments of bottled
Japanese teas and shiny otillas of
imported canned coffee, puried water
from every part of the world, Pocky and
Pretz, ...

The Italian Job


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some people with whom I am acquainted consider the Hollywood


trattoria La Buca to be one of the great Italian restaurants in Los
Angeles, a place to nd perfect gnocchi, crisp-crusted pizza and
pasta made with the care that only an Italian grandm...

Ask Mr. Gold: Taiwanese Shabu Shabu


10 years ago

BLD It and They Will Come


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Every generation of L.A. restaurateurs has


had its own idea of what a useful
restaurant might be, from Musso and
Frank through Swingers. The late coffee
shop Ships was a useful restaurant, with
quality-obsessed American food served
24 hours...

Ask Mr. Gold: Pambazo


10 years ago

All That Glitters


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

A glowing, blue apparition thrusting out of the lower slopes of the

202/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

A glowing, blue apparition thrusting out of the lower slopes of the


Verdugos like the prow of a party barge, Minx is a look back to the
world of 80s Los Angeles restaurants, where the women were
women, the men sometimes were too, and we all...

Claws and Effect


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Initial reports on the new Macau Street


have focused on the fried duck chins, the
grilled chicken knees and the waiters in
yellow pirate blouses who could double
as extras in a dinner-theater production
of a Gilbert and Sullivan operetta. Also
the...

Wok Out
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Some weeks it seems as if a new, way-northern Chinese restaurant is


opening every 20 minutes in the San Gabriel Valley places notable
for their lamb, their extensive use of cumin and their cumin lamb.
Mei Jia Deli, shoehorned between a Tai...

Ask Mr. Gold: Izayaka


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Dear Mr. Gold: Trying to save money these days is a
top priority. And Ive been hearing about izakaya, Japanese pubs
with small plates and cold beer. This could be just what the
economist ordered: a Metro to Little Tokyo, a me...

L.A. Simonized
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Simon L.A., the new restaurant in the


Sotel across the Beverly Center, is not a
bad place to experience a giant shellsh
platter, a carefully composed beet salad
with goat cheese or a $48 bone-in ribeye
steak with glazed cippoline onions,
espec...

Where to Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park LA99 Kagaya. Shabu shabu


is pretty basic: a slice of prime meat swished through bubbling broth
for a second or two, just until the pink becomes frosted with white. If
youve done it right &mdash...

Ask Mr. Gold: Cracklin


10 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Dear Mr. Gold: Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I nd cracklin in Los
Angeles? Carl Ferry Dear Mr. Ferry: My arteries begin to constrict at

203/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Angeles? Carl Ferry Dear Mr. Ferry: My arteries begin to constrict at


the thought of the pork rinds fried in giant iron kettles of bubbling
lard at the Jazz and Heritage ...

Happy Meals
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Why do we love Jollibee? Is it the happy plastic mascot outside that


looks like Big Boy crossed with an apple maggot? Could it be the
goopy cheeseburgers, the fried chicken or the violet, boba-laden
milkshakes made with the purple yam called ube? ...

O-lou . . . Ah
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A mile south of the more glamorous


precincts of North Hollywoods Thaitown,
in a mini-mall populated by tattooed
young men with shaved heads and 16inch biceps, Sri Siam may be one of the
least promising restaurants on the planet
a d...

Where to Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park LA99 Kagaya. Shabu shabu


is pretty basic: a slice of prime meat swished through bubbling broth
for a second or two, just until the pink becomes frosted with white. If
youve done it right &mdash...

Ask Mr. Gold: Birthday Dinner


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Dear Mr Gold: When my parents say they want to
take me out for a nice dinner for my birthday, I take their offer
seriously. But I feel woefully unequipped for the task of choosing the
restaurant. I do not want to go somewhere where ...

Life, Liberty & the Pursuit of Cheese Balls


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Liberty Grill smells like money, or at least as much like money as
you can expect from a restaurant that serves deep-fried mac-ncheese balls. The bronze plaques boasting a roster of investors in the
renovated building are a sure...

Thoroughly Modern Wilson


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In Italy as in China, styles of cooking can


shift substantially in the space of just a
few minutes on the highway. Lunch in the
Marchese town of Visso will be
completely different from lunch in
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

204/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

completely different from lunch in


Norcia, just to the south; breakfast in
Shanghai will...

Where to Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park Hoan Kiem. After gallery


openings on nearby Chung King Road, a certain percentage of the art
crowd drifts down to this one-dish restaurant, a specialist in pho ga,
Vietnamese chicken-noodle soup. When you order, ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Polish Cooking


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I cant seem to nd anywhere serving real Polish


dishes in Los Angeles. I would appreciate your help. Rod Roderick,
Northridge Dear Mr. Roderick: Los Angeles isnt exactly Chicago or
Greenpoint, Brooklyn, when it...

Simon Says
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Simons newest steak house, Simon L.A. across the street from the
Beverly Center in the Sotel space that has been underutilized since
Patrick Terrail briey relaunched Ma Maison there a decade ago is
a handsome, airy place...

Where to Eat Now


10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park Nick & Stefs. Joachim


Splichals downtown steak house pushes the genres envelope. The
dcor is sedate enough?? banquettes wear bankers gray but
annexed to the din...

Buzz Bin
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We have all become familiar with the idea of the Italianate wine bar
in the past year or so, intimate, themed places with a few dozen
inexpensive wines, nibbles of meat and cheese, and a cheery, relaxed
vibe. Bin 8945, which just opened in the rag...

Ask Mr. Gold: Australian Cuisine


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Yesterday I went to Outback Steakhouse for a casual


lunch with my girlfriend. Ive always liked the faux-Australian
atmosphere, even if it is a tad on the hokey side. Where else can you
see boomerangs nailed to walls and get t...

Kiss Their Grits


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

205/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There are many ways to enjoy bacon at


Square One Dining, which, if it didnt have
so many vegetarian-friendly options on
its menu, might almost be a baconspecialty restaurant. There are bowls of
stone-ground grits avored with Cheddar
and ...

'80s Redux
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

From 1935 until it faded away 50-odd years later, the Far East Caf
was a mainstay of the Little Tokyo neighborhood, with battered
wooden booths, tall ceilings and a neon Chop Suey sign outside as
grand as anything out ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Tacos al Pastor


10 years ago

Cool Hunting
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When it is 109 degrees in Pasadena, when


the live oaks droop and the front range of
the San Gabriels burns with a terrible
heat, there is no better place to be in the
city than the shaded courtyard of the
Pacic Asia Museum, among the
Japanese st...

Ask Mr. Gold: Croque Monsieurs


10 years ago

Beautiful Game
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The upper-west level of Pasadenas Paseo Colorado complex is a


catalog of mild modern sins, a promenade of cigar stores, wine bars
and tea shops, crystal-laden boutiques and holistic-massage parlors,
overlaid by a thin lm of hot suburban l...

Home of the Porno Burrito


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Todays subject: the potato taco or, to be


more specic, the wonderment of
civilization that is the potato taco at El
Atacor #11, a taquera chains grungy
outpost on the fringes of Glassell Park.
You have, no doubt, tasted a p...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Allez les Bleus

206/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Allez les Bleus

10 years ago | A Considerable Town

I was nishing my second glass of vieille prune last Sunday at Balzar,


an old brasserie around the corner from the Sorbonne, sleepy from a
long lunch of pigs feet and Sancerre rouge, when the Rue des coles
lled with a motley surg...

Ask Mr. Gold: Doner Kebabs


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: When I was a younger man I took a series of trips to
Great Britain. After a night in the pub, invariably I would be as
hungry as a man could get after drinking for six hours. Staggering, I
would ask the nearest bobby for directions ...

Super Swank
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Social Hollywood rst local effort from Manhattan/South Beach


restaurant czar Jeffery Chodorow is pretty velvet-rope-intensive
even for Hollywood, a clipboard guy passing you on to a protomaitre d, who clears your way to the guy with acce...

Red Dawn
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

With the demise of the Beijing duck


restaurant Quanjude and the Taiwanese
makeover of the Islamic-Chinese
restaurant Tung Lai Shun, the Sichuan
restaurant Chung King may be the
premier San Gabriel Valley destination for
traveling food people at th...

Cold Stone Greenery


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A line outside a restaurant in downtown Culver City is nothing new


these days. You could probably put a Sunday Brunch sign outside a
shoe store on Culver Boulevard and see a queue begin to curl down
the block. But the line outside Te...

Ask Mr. Gold: Gumbo


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I know youve written about the best gumbo in Los
Angeles. But every time I drive down Crenshaw Boulevard looking
for the restaurant, I come up short. This isnt a sad thing particularly
I do usually end up getti...

King of Beers
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Tell me what you want to try, said Sam


Samaniego, gesturing toward his bank of
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

207/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Samaniego, gesturing toward his bank of


beer-lled refrigerators. Then Ill tell you
what youre going to drink instead. I
asked, I think, for something hoppy and
Belg...

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants


10 years ago | Longform

What does the Weekly mean by 99


Essential L.A. Restaurants? It isnt
necessarily a list of the very best
restaurants in Los Angeles; that would
almost certainly include LOrangerie,
which has been the most rigorously Fren...

Lunch in This Town


10 years ago | Longform

Eight of us nurse BLT salads, carne asada


plates and Wagyu-beef burgers at Coras
on a sunny farmers-market Wednesday,
ying high on coffee and eavesdropping
on the Midwestern tourists who have
gotten lost on the way to the pier. The...

Certifiable
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The most beautiful farm I have ever seen


is probably Willow Creek Farm, a small
piggery at the southern end of the
Baraboo Hills in central Wisconsin, a
green, lush patch of rolling slopes and
leafy trees tucked into a narrow valley.
The pigs, sle...

Ask Mr. Gold: Manhattan Clam Chowder


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: One of my favorite experiences with my dad was


driving to a pier in Freeport, Long Island, on a cold winter day and
having the best Manhattan clam chowder ever. Most places in
Southern California serve the New Englandstyle cl...

Ch-ch-ch-changes
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Judging from its menu, 12 Dishes of Basho yet another mini-mall


storefront in San Gabriel was probably the most ambitious
Sichuan restaurant ever to open in the Los Angeles area, a rened
kitchen specializing in the haute cuisine ...

Where to Eat Now


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

10 years ago

208/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
10 years ago

Downtown Los Angeles?Highland Park LA99 Chichn Itz. Chichn


Itz, a small counter restaurant in a communal mercado south of
downtown, is the most serious Yucatecan restaurant in town at the
moment, its men...

Ask Mr. Gold: Chocolate Pretzels


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Another NYC food craving: I apologize. I know youve
written about mail-ordering chocolate-covered pretzels at Li-Lac in
Greenwich Village, one of my favorite things in the universe. Mail
order is good e-tail is anothe...

First Bite: Cute Food


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In restaurants as in actresses, forced quirkiness can be an


unforgivable aw. But some restaurants, like the comfortable,
modern Hatelds near Hollywood, cant help themselves. Instead of
merlot and Chianti, there is a weirdly wonde...

First Bite: Small World


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Is it a restaurant? Is it a lounge? Is it a place to pose by the bar in a


pair of artfully ripped Rogans, nursing a glass of Viognier and a
skewer of vegetable shashlik while you wait for prime time at Shag?
Will you ever nd the actual squid...

Ask Mr. Gold: Spaghetti Carbonara


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Spaghetti carbonara, of course, is the best food in the
world, all that is holy in the universe cheese, eggs, bacon, pasta
combined into a single, perfect dish. In Rome, you can nd decent
spaghetti carbonara anywhe...

The Great Carnitas Plate


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When I have not been eating for work in


the last few months, or making sorrel and
knobby ngerling potatoes into healthful
soups that my 11-year-old refuses to eat, I
have been spending a lot of time at
Tonnys, a small Mexican caf ...

Clear Concept
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

From the week it opened last year, New


Concept was celebrated as a beacon of
Chinese cuisine in Los Angeles, an elegant
Monterey Park restaurant with actual
mainland ownership and a chef, Chen

209/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

mainland ownership and a chef, Chen


Chen Liang, who had reinvented the
possibilities of Ch...

Ask Mr. Gold: Grits


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Lately, a friend and I have been hankering for some
grits with imagination. Thus far our search has been lackadaisical;
less a search than a leisurely treasure hunt that took us to Brite Spot
in Echo Park and Roscoes on Pico....

First Bite: Crowning Glory


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Do you remember the famous Robert Mapplethorpe photographs of


his muse Lisa Lyons, a sweetly feminine bodybuilder with the
musculature of a Michelangelo god? Tiara is a little like that, its walls
a sinewy pink, its Japanese lichen trees dripping ...

First Bite: Cult of Multiculti


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If California cuisine has taught us anything over the past 30 years, it


is that almost anything tastes good when you put it on a pizza. Duck
sausage and goat cheese? Sure. The makings of a BLT? Why not.
Tandoori chicken? Go for it. So it is no sur...

Ask Mr. Gold: Cheesecake


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, I am trying to ply a beau with something sweet; my


sources tell me he loves cheesecake. Where can I pick up the best
slice? E.C., Los Angeles Dear E.C.: I am awfully partial to the
cheesecake at the Palm in West Hollywood. It...

Mole Minimalism
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Oaxacan bakeries and travel agencies and


butcher shops line Pico Boulevard in the
recently solidied Oaxacan neighborhood
that has somehow begun to be called the
Byzantine Latino District, as if the
hundreds of Korean businesses in the
area barel...

First Bite: The Right Stuff


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There is a certain kind of medium-priced grown-up restaurant that


is spreading over the landscape like kudzu: urban, comfortable
dining rooms, often with outdoor terraces, lubricated with recorded
bebop and reasonably priced Spanish reds, understa...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

210/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: Live-Poultry Markets


10 years ago

Station Identification
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It was not so long ago that downtown


Culver City was the closest thing to a
slum in the entire Westside. Peppered
with thrift shops and sad hamburger
stands, shuttered movie theaters and
empty parking lots, it was dominated by
an abandoned hotel a...

Ask Mr. Gold: Fiery Ramen


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: In your column a few weeks ago, you alluded to the
ramen in a South Bay supermarket whose noodles are served hot
enough to char your lips into ash, a charming thought, Im sure. Im
not a ramen completist o...

Magic Beans
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Feijoada, South Americas cassoulet, is the


improbable national dish of Brazil a
bowl of black beans and various gelatinrich animal parts with the ability to glue
your lips together at the distance of 10
paces and the approximate mo...

First Bite: Bridge


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Would you recommend Barolo with the swordsh? Pinot Grigio?


Something like Chardonnay? The dude shuts the massive wine list
with a sigh and looks up at the glowing Pilates balls hanging from
the ceiling as if the answer is conta...

Where To Eat Now


10 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold: Lap Ped Thoke


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Is there anywhere to get that great Burmese


fermented-tea-leaf salad in Los Angeles? I read about one place in
Whittier. Anywhere else? David Ury, Los Angeles Dear Mr. Ury: Lap
ped thoke, the famous salad made with Burmese tea leave...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

The Roti Less Traveled

211/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

The Roti Less Traveled


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

New Yorkers longing for Malaysian


cooking have always tended to head to
one of the Penang restaurants out in
Flushing or in Manhattans Chinatown,
folksy Malaysian-Chinese diners where
the avors are perhaps scrubbed down
more assiduously t...

Lists
10 years ago | Lists

JONATHAN GOLD (author of Counter Intelligence: Where to Eat in


the Real Los Angeles) Monologue of a Dog by Wislawa Szymborska
(Harcourt). Fragments of time pinned wriggling like live butteries
under glass; easy philosophical conversation compres...

10 Best Dishes of 2005


10 years ago | Lists

1. Frozen ham foam. The menu at Bastide, Los Angeles best French
restaurant, famously veered from the Provenal stylings of Alain
Giraud to the Alain Passardinuenced avant-garde cooking of
Ludovic Lefebvre, before retreating...

Ask Mr. Gold: Chachiang Mein


10 years ago

Let Them Eat Cakes


10 years ago

Live, from Koreatown


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

O-Dae San is the grandest sh restaurant


in Koreatown, a high-ceilinged modern
space with acres of glass and marble, and
a sushi bar running the length of the
dining room. The list of sojus and sakes is
long. The private dining rooms are
sumptuou...

The Gamine Gourmet


10 years ago | Longform

Wolfgang Puck gets on television a lot


more. Michael Cimarusti gets the street
cred. Evan Kleiman has written more
cookbooks. Joachim Splichal has like a
zillion restaurants to her mere three:
Lucques, A.O.C. and Hungry Cat. But
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

212/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Lucques, A.O.C. and Hungry Cat. But


Suzanne Goin is Lo...

Generation Chef
10 years ago | Longform

Fred Eric is the unbridled id of cooking in


Los Angeles, the madman bellowing in
the tearoom, the boy most likely to
exceed. His patrons include indie-rock
managers and punk-rock magnates,
Beastie Boys and riot grrls. The inventor
of the Tacone, E...

Morning Glory
10 years ago | Longform

Euro Pane Bakery may be the center of civilized life in Pasadena: a


place to buy excellent-to-superb scones and baguettes and pains au
chocolat, of course, but also the heart of a certain sort of society, the
chemistry professors, theology student...

Green Goddess
10 years ago | Longform

Los Angeles is a city where people are


obsessed with their gardens, where
conversations at a party are as likely to
touch on horticulture as they are on sex,
where houses explode with wisteria in the
spring and bougainvillea in the summer,
and the...

Feeling L.A.
10 years ago | Longform

Vic the Brick Jacobs is ILL. Not ill, but


Ill, as in black is white and up is down and
the Lakers are going to the NBA nals this
year because sometimes wishing can
make it so. No matter that they have an
interi...

One Hot Restaurant


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The current aesthetic of Los Angeles


restaurant design suggests that certain of
its architects might spend more than a
little time in front of their Xboxes, playing
Halo 2 and the Elder Scrolls IV:Oblivion
until their eyes start to bleed. Their re...

The Boiling Point


10 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

213/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
10 years ago

Boiled sh, boiled-milk ice cream, boiled sea cucumbers? Whatever


gets your water rolling ... Ambala Dhaba. On a stretch of Westwood
Boulevard thick with student coffeehouses and Iranian hair salons,
Ambala Dhaba is an outpost of the ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Salt-and-Pepper Squid


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: When I used to live in San Francisco a million years
ago, a night at the clubs would often wind up at a Chinatown place
that I knew only as the Coca-Cola Restaurant, for the giant CocaCola sign that decorated its exterior. I don&rs...

Jaguar Express
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Brazilian cooking is incredibly diverse,


ranging from the jungly cassava-based
cooking of Minas Gerais to the spicy,
tropical seafood dishes of Bahia, from the
weirdly heavy bean dishes of Rio to the
cosmopolitan restaurants in skyscraperchoked S...

Ask Mr. Gold: Pizza Dough


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My daughter likes to watch the Food Network,


especially when Rachel Ray is on, but also when the Italian women,
none of whom I can tell apart, have their shows. And this daughter
has recently become obsessed with pizza dough, which ...

Ask Mr. Gold: Korean Barbecue


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I love Korean barbecue, especially all those side
dishes and the bowl of cold noodles afterward, but Soot Bull Jeep is
not exactly the most relaxing place to spend an evening, what with
the smoke and the din, and it has gotten a lit...

Market Research
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Gardenas new Marukai Supermarket is


among the great food resources in Los
Angeles, one of those places where every
aisle reveals another vegetable you cant
wait to cook, a bottle of litchi soda you
want to taste, a gadget you want to...

The $14 Burger


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

It is a truth universally acknowledged,


that a single man in possession of a good

214/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

that a single man in possession of a good


fortune must be in want of a $14
hamburger. And not just a hamburger:
Frequently, there must also be cheese.
There is a new wind blowing down
Hollywood Boulevard, a ...

Ask Mr. Gold: What is Pig Candy?


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: I overheard a couple of my foodie co-workers talking


about pig candy the other day, but when I asked what it was, they
gave me one of those weird looks and walked away. Am I missing
anything? Is pig candy more l...

The Great White Duck


10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A Nanjing duck is cold and ghostly white,


a seemingly goose-eshed fowl that has
been pressed, cooked and brined until the
meat rms, becomes scented with mild
spice, and is fatless. When you press your
nger into it, the esh springs back alm...

Ask Mr. Gold: Corn Dogs at Disneyland


10 years ago

Ramen Holiday
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Reasonable minds can differ on the


relative merits of one hamburger stand or
another. Some guys become surreally
attached to their favorite sushi bar, but it
is often possible to have a rational
discussion with them on the succulence
of Sasabune&r...

Wake Me Up Before You Go Go


10 years ago

Where would we be without coffee? These places are good to the last
drop . . . Cha Cha Cha. It is hard to imagine a better introduction to
Los Angeles than brunch on the thatched-roof patio at the original
Cha Cha Cha at the eastern end of Melrose...

Ask Mr. Gold: What the Devil is Fennel Pollen?


10 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold: Cuban Sandwiches

215/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold: Cuban Sandwiches


10 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: Where can I get a great Cuban sandwich in L.A.?
Mitch, Los Angeles Dear Mitch: The Cuban sandwich is one of the
most astonishing concoctions on Earth, a split length of buttered
Cuban bread, stuffed with ham, roast pork, Swiss chees...

Let's Roll
10 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There may be northern Chinese cafs


more anonymous-looking than 101
Noodle Express, but I havent found them
yet: a bleak mini-mall storefront
adjoining a bowling alley, a photocopied
menu taped in the window, a troupe of
waitresses w...

The Devil's Own Steak House


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Do I love The Lodge for its double-sted


Tanqueray martinis or for the thick-cut
pepper bacon put out like peanuts at the
bar? For the big chunks of blue cheese in
the house chopped salad or for the onion
rings as golden as the bangles on a
Brahm...

Ask Mr. Gold: Hishi-mochi


11 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold: My friend is giving a Hinamatsuri, Japanese Doll Day,


party for her little daughter on March 3. Id like to bring hishi-mochi
for dessert. I wonder whether you might suggest somewhere in Los
Angeles that would be likely to hav...

Ask Mr. Gold: Cinammon and Spice


11 years ago

Super Fry
11 years ago

Because food just tastes better fried, heres a list of places serving
everything from fried chicken to golden bhaturas. Antequera de
Oaxaca. Antequera de Oaxaca specializes in botanas bar munchies,
more or less. The botanas are asse...

Swimming to Peru
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Nobu Matsuhisa, it is well known, was the


rst famous sushi crossover artist,
marrying classical Japanese techniques

216/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

marrying classical Japanese techniques


with the pungent avors he had learned
to love as a young sushi chef in Peru. On
the one hand, he inected traditional
sushi wi...

Dining
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

t is the coldest night of the year, the winds have started to blow, and I
am driving along Olympic Boulevard in East Los Angeles,
ravenously hungry, looking for one of the itinerant ame-throwing
taco carts that sprout in that neighborhood around...

Quest for Fire: Out of the Flames


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

It is the coldest night of the year, the


winds have started to blow, and I am
driving along Olympic Boulevard in East
Los Angeles, ravenously hungry, looking
for one of the itinerant ame-throwing
taco carts that sprout in that
neighborhood aroun...

Where to Eat Now: New to the List


11 years ago

Agra. Balti, in theory at least, is a kind of Kashmiri curry with roots in


the Islamic cuisine of northern Pakistan, cooked and served in
handled metal pots that resemble miniature woks. In practice, the
word balti has come to mean almost any er...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

South of South of the Border


11 years ago

Cali Viejo. Come here for the picada, and come hungry: This is one
huge ceramic platter heaped with grilled lengths of thumb-width
Colombian chorizo, peppery nubs of fried beef, pungent blood
sausage, crisp chunks of fried pork, and the pec...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Once, many years ago, I stumbled upon an ice cream
parlor in New Yorks Chinatown and on a whim ordered lychee ice
cream. It was fantastic, but to this day, Ive never stumbled across it
again. Are there ice cream parlor...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Old-School Bean & Cheese

217/282

7/6/2016

Old-School Bean & Cheese

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

They are a stolid bunch, Los Angeles


burrito lovers, neatly queued at burrito
shrines at noon, pulling homemade
burritos out of lunch buckets,
occasionally attending to late-night
cravings as faithfully as worshipers
attending midnight mass. A tac...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Capital News
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The always-evolving San Gabriel Valley


teems with noodleshops of every
description, new Mongolian hotpot
emporia and restaurants featuring the
hearty cooking of Chinas far north. There
are elegant Chinese superstores selling
more kinds of i...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, A friend of mine is having a 40th-birthday party and


she wants Cuban food. Do you know of a place that is authentic,
yummy and relatively cheap? It would be essentially to go or
catered, so no ambiance required. Melani...

Eat Healthy, Floss Regularly


11 years ago

Gingergrass. Gingergrass, a sleek Vietnamese bistro in Silver Lake, is


the polar opposite of a place like Golden Deli, citied where the San
Gabriel noodle shop is rustic, timid where the food at the other roars
with avor. There is pho, but it&...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Dear Mr. Gold, Please tell me youve been to Shalimar in San


Francisco. Then please tell me about a place just like it in L.A. Is it
Indian or Pakistani? I dont know, but theres good stuff in there
whole cardamom pods a...

Hare Today
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Bistro K is almost too civilized on a busy


Thursday night a tiny, candlelit dining
room with Ray Charles on the stereo,
fresh owers on linen tablecloths, couples

218/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

fresh owers on linen tablecloths, couples


bent over glasses of Beaujolais. Dinnerparty groups of well-fed Pasadenans...

Send a Salami...
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinThis time of year, even we stay home and


cook. Los Angeles, of course, is a wonderland of local organic
produce, a hub of farmers markets and sustainably raised meat, of
boutique gourmet shops and supermarkets represen...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Id like a sub sandwich. A grinder. A hoagie. Anything long


and football-shaped stuffed with meat and cheese. Hot or cold is
ne, but preferably hot. And melty. My ance and I have been
searching the city for a year and a half, b...

The Firebird
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinThe signature attraction at the new Red


Corner Asia is a phenomenon known as Volcano Chicken, a
rotisserie-cooked creation brought to the table trailing liquid
streamers of re, rising from the ames like a phoenix, whole ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Maximum Dosa
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinA decent dosa, the thin, burnished crepe


from India that spreads across the table like an unfolded parachute,
may have more surface area than any food item on Earth. Broad as
knotted carpets or the ineld at Dodger Stadium, ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Power Puff
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photos by Anne Fishbein A warm, vanilla-scented cream puff from


Beard Papa Sweets Caf is the thinking foodies latest object of
desire, a rustic orb, tawny in color, about the size and heft of a

219/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

desire, a rustic orb, tawny in color, about the size and heft of a
regulation baseball, obtainable only a...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Sunshine State
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein As it courses through North Hollywood,


Sherman Way may be the most aggressively multiculti strip of
multiculti Los Angeles, a riot of signs in a dozen different alphabets;
teenagers of every possible ethnicity with buzzcuts...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Layover, With Cheese


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinThey ock to Shulas 347, the business-ier


crowd, the sallow men who inhabit every airline lounge in the
country and know their way around an airline bottle of Tanqueray, a
no-iron Brooks Brothers polo shirt,...

Two Little Piggies


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinI have tasted suckling pig whose skin was so
crisp that it shattered in the mouth like spun sugar, and suckling pig
so tender that the waiter ostentatiously carved it into serving
portions with the blunt edge of a plate. I ha...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: For years, Ive been going to the Vietnamese noodle shop
Pho 79, in the mall right behind Ocean Seafood. Now, all of a sudden,
the restaurant is called Pho 97, although they still have the same
pictures on the walls, the same revie...

Marineland: Michael Cimarusti's Providence


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

During the course of dinner at Providence, you might taste Japanese


kanpachi seasoned with soy and a powder made from dehydrated
tortilla masa, white Mexican shrimp nestled in a blob of cauliower
cream with caviar that comes straight from Joel R...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

220/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
11 years ago

Question: I love living in Pasadena. I love my little bungalow, I love


the good bookstores, I love riding the Gold Line to work, and I love
the way the mountains pop into loveliness precisely 45 minutes
before sunset. What I dont love is th...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: When I meet with colleagues at conferences out of town, it


has become my custom to hand out locally made sweets as kind of
an icebreaker, a custom which Im sure is much appreciated. But Im
getting kind of tired of relying o...

Lima and Vine


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinCamarones a la piedra, a warm shrimp


ceviche popular on the tropical northern coast of Peru, is a
formidable plate of seafood. Shrimp, tinted a violent taxicab-yellow
with pured amarillo chiles and propped up with cy...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Go! Go! Giant Robot!


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinIn the great zine explosion of the mid-90s,


the pre-Web proliferation of self-published magazines about politics
and culture and every conceivable permutation of punk rock, the
Westside journal Giant Robot may have be...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Its Thursday today. In Rome, Thursday means gnocchi. I


would like Thursday to mean gnocchi in Los Angeles, too, but the
gummy little things that go by that name here are barely worth
mentioning. Surely one of the approximately 15,...

I Am Arak
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinAlcazar, a shaded terrace of music, grilled


mullet and waiters who transfer bright coals of tobacco to brass
hookahs with specially designed tongs, could be coastal Lebanon,
really it could. Enormous kebab plates are rushed ...

Sex and the Steak House


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

221/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Have you seen the shrimp cocktail at


Sterling, the new steak house around the corner from the ArcLight?
Freaking amazing, Im telling you a school of banana-size
creatures at $3.50 a pop, tted onto an urn of ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Where in heavens name can you nd sopapillas in this


town? When I ask my friends, they all assume Im talking about
sopes, but I dont want those attened taco things, I want dessert.
Annie, La Crescenta Answe...

Alligator Tales
11 years ago | Longform

It is late autumn afternoon and the light has started to fade. A greatwinged raptor circles lazily above bruise-purple Machado Lake. At
the swampy perimeter, all tule and water primrose and sedge, 10,000
tiny ies disappear down the throats of a...

The Porterhouse Rules


11 years ago | Best of L.A.

Time hasnt exactly stopped in the San Gabriel Valley, but we can slip
through the looking glass into a sort of vast, living history museum
of old-fashioned food and drinks. Compared to their Gilded Age
forebears, these restaurants and bars ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Around this time of year, my grandmother used to go out


into her garden and denude her tomato plants with the tenacity of
locusts: big or small, ripe or not. The ones that were hard enough to
bounce, she sliced and cooked in bacon grease...

Griddle Me This
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinOkonomiyaki may be the homeliest food in


creation, a squat, unlovely, vaguely circular mess of batter, cabbage
and egg, slicked with a tarry black substance made from catsup and
Worcestershire sauce, inscribed with mayonnaise...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: When I go up to San Francisco, I always try to stop by the


Swan Oyster Depot on Polk Street for their delicious Crab Louie. I
know Crab Louie is probably not as cool as the cold cracked crab,
which is good too, but I cant help mys...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold

222/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: I went to art school near the Japanese East Village in


Manhattan, that little stretch of Ninth Street brimming with sake
bars and noodle shops. The crowning jewel was a narrow takoyaki
stand with an okonomiyaki/yakisoba plate ready to be...

Hail Seitan
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinI suspect that at least half of the people who
read the Weekly know more about macrobiotic cooking than I do,
that they can recite the ve elements and seven principles of the diet
backward and forward, and are able to rank...

Flat Land
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinDim sum restaurants may provide more


variety, and buffet lines more tonnage, but there may be no meal in
America that commands more acreage than breakfast at the Original
Pancake House, a massive if two-dimensional feast tha...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Wild Palms
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinThere may be more chaotic restaurants on a


Saturday night, but the new Palms Thai is as loud as they come, a tall
box of a dining room, the approximate shape and resonance of a
speaker cabinet, lined with ranks of long, stra...

Coffee Shop, Interrupted


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinEvery Angeleno has a secret backdoor


shortcut to the airport, and Panns is smack on the route of at least
two-thirds of them. Its a grand 50s coffee shop smack on the
triangle formed by the intersection ...

Ask Mr. Gold


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

223/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
11 years ago

Question: Maybe my kids have been watching too much Fear Factor
in fact, I know that they have but my oldest keeps professing a
desire to eat insects. Slimy insects. Rather than have her rooting
around in the yard for tomato worms ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: In Taipei last year, I ate the most delicious sausages almost
everywhere. They were sweet, a little thicker than hot dogs, and were
usually served with a spoonful of fresh chopped garlic quite an
experience! I assume that there&r...

Cow Patties
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Top photo by Anne Fishbein Toward the deserted end of the deserted
Nebraska panhandle, an endless, yawning territory of tallgrass and
strange animals, like a landscape from Carl Sandburgs Rootabaga
Stories, the town of Harrison appears like...

The Manhattan Project


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne FishbeinEverybody knows that Manhattan is the


capital of French cooking in America, a borough home to roughly
ve times as many rst-rate grand restaurants, cafs and brasseries
as the rest of the United States put toge...

Hot On the Enchilada Belt


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein When we hit Needles the other day, the
temperature had just begun to slacken from its 125-degree high, but
an hour after dusk the thermometer outside the motel lobby still
read a balmy 122, and the cold water out of the tap ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Its the peak of corn season again, and Im suddenly


hungry for some corn chowder. Where should I go? Isabelle E.,
Sherman Oaks Answer: Toribio Prado, the chef behind the Cha Cha
Cha empire, came up with the denitive...

Any Given Sundae


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinThe stilt-walkers prance on Hollywood


Boulevard, juggling plates and glittering Indian clubs, catching
basketballs when they are tossed to them from the street, bending
double to kiss a baby or rufe the hair of a toddler. ...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

224/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: In 1976, friends took me to Josenas in Venice, where I


had a dish I still think about: beefsteak Jalisco-style. Shredded beef
in chile-avored reddish broth, chopped white onions and soft corn
tortillas. Fragrant, simple, satis...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: When I was looking for burritos in Queens, New York, last
year, I noticed that Roosevelt Avenue, under the tracks of the 7 train,
had more restaurants serving Ecuadorean food than anything else.
Im not sure what I was expecting fr...

Great Balls o Rice!


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein China, of course, enjoys the greatest food in


the world, a cuisine capable of such subtlety and regional variety
that French or Italian menus seem as one-dimensional as
Hamburger Helper. A good Chinese chef can render pork ...

The Six Dollar Man


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We meet our hero, a spokesdude for Carls Jr., in the bread aisle of a
supermarket, where he silently gapes at the hundreds of different
loaves crammed together like so many bright, bewildering foreignlanguage manga at a Japanese newsstand....

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Jonathan Golds 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants - Part 3


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Renu Nakorn Renu Nakorns northern and Isaan-style Thai food is


spicy, but what makes it wonderful is the fresh play of tastes, a fugue
of herbs, meatiness and citrus that is quite unlike anything at your
corner Thai caf. There&rsquo...

Raw Power
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinI remember the moment I stopped eating


sushi as if it were yesterday, a chilly, sunny March afternoon back in
1992, in a mini-mall near Wilshire and Wilton. I had just visited
Ginza Sushiko for the rst time, a glowing 10-s...

Jonathan Golds 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

225/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinLos Angeles is a different kind of restaurant


town, a city where the arty-looking guy across the room may
actually be Dennis Hopper, where the presence of Ashton Kutcher
may mean more than the presence of Wolfgang Puck behin...

Jonathan Golds 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants - Part 2


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

The Hungry Cat The Hungry Cat is the restaurant a lot of us in Los
Angeles have been waiting for, a local answer to Swan Oyster Depot
in San Francisco or New Yorks Pearl Oyster Bar, a place to drop into
for a dozen oysters or a bowl of shri...

Ironic Chef America


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinAt Nook, a newish bistro in the badlands


west of the Nuart, tiny bowls of boiled peanuts show up at the
beginning of the meal where you might expect bread and butter, and
there is no getting over the shock of the things &mda...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Pie n Burger or Apple Pan? Wynn, Culver City Answer:


You dont think Im going to fall into that trap, do you? I choose
whichever one of the two I happen to be closer to at the time. They
are the two grea...

God Damn, Hes Toothless


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein You need no teeth to eat our beef, the
barbecue chain Mr. Jims used to advertise. In a spot of bad timing, I
had all of my wisdom teeth out last week, but the last Mr. Jims
closed down more than ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: With the approaching summer, I am already dreaming


about a good bowl of cold noodles on a hot day. I have found some
decent restaurants, but I am still always searching for the perfect
cold noodles to hit the spot. Smiles, Su Oh, ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Frankly, I dont remember ever having sweater weather so


late in Los Angeles. Global warming, I know, I know, but for a while
in early May, it felt like the Ice Age was coming back, complete with
the woolly mammoths. Anyway, now th...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

226/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Bean There
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinUmenohana, which shares the rst oor of


a Beverly Hills parking structure with the newest location of Duttons
Books, is spacious almost to the point of innity, long, curving halls
forking off into paneled tatami r...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Italian restaurants are all well and good, but what Im
looking for is an old-fashioned Italian-American restaurant, with the
red sauce and the plastic grapes and the three-generation families
eating pasta on Sunday nights. Any ide...

What the Doctor Orders


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein In the course of his long and distinguished


career, Dr. Seymour Benzer invented gene mapping, came within a
hairsbreadth of inventing the transistor, and jump-started the hard
science of molecules and behavior. The genes gov...

Bosnias Big Mac


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinTodays subject is pljeskavica. Pljeskavica is


a thin, Balkan hamburger, as big and round as a phonograph record,
avored with salt and onions and peppers and briey cooked over a
hot charcoal re, a chewy meat patt...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Onion rings. Where? Gus, Northridge Answer: I was once


under the impression that the best onion rings in Los Angeles were
the ones that Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger used to serve
with the baseball steak at the old City Rest...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Okay, I get it. The Vietnamese sandwich is a cross-cultural


miracle, a conqueror of worlds, an emperor of the lunch hour. They
taste pretty good, Ill give you that. But do I really have to drive all
the way to Rosemead? For a sand...

Kuku Puffs
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinAttari Sandwich Shop is a pleasant lunch


spot hidden around the corner from Westwoods Iranian strip, a
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

227/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

spot hidden around the corner from Westwoods Iranian strip, a


short distance from the biggest concentration of bakeries and
bookstores and boutiques of Iranian Los Angeles, in ...

Designer Duck
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The concept of a one-specialty restaurant is well-known in the


Chinese San Gabriel Valley: Din Tai Fung for steamed dumplings;
Little Sheep for Mongolian hot pot; Dai Ho for spicy beef-noodle
soup. If you want soy milk, you go to Yung Ho. If you h...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: The more cosmically minded of my foodie friends, the


ones who used to go on about kambocha tea, sh extracts and raw
clumps of hemp seed, have lately been going on about konjac. But
even the most direct questioning and direct qu...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: Im going on a rst date and thought you might have a few
good suggestions. I am open to checking out anywhere, really.
Katrina, Los Angeles Answer: For a rst date, you probably couldnt
do better than Hungry Cat in...

Have a Cow
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinFogo de Chao is less a restaurant than a


sizzling theme park of meat, a quarter-acre of sword-wielding
gauchos, smoldering logs and soaring walls perforated with bottles
of the heartier red wines. It is a land of razor-sharp ...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: I must have exquisitely tuned neuroreceptors, because I


am never happier than in the moments immediately after I have
consumed roasted habanero peppers, a bowl of four-alarm Texas
chili or the kind of North Indian curry that seems t...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

Question: We drink coffee in Los Angeles, lots of it. Im drinking


some right now. In fact, Los Angeles is a better coffee town than New
York, and is almost certainly a better coffee town than other United
States cities I could name. We drin...

Scenes from a Mall


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

228/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The Hong Kong Plaza Food Court is located
in a yawning, empty space the size of a grand hotel ballroom
attached to a Chinese supermarket, a vast expanse of worn carpet, a
few scattered tables, and a large-screen television i...

Chocolate City
11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein1985 was the year of tiramisu; 1994 was the
year of the blood-orange sorbet; and 2002 was the year you started
nding breakfast cereal incorporated into expense-account desserts.
But last year was probably the year of hot c...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

QUESTION: I just got back from Spain, and it was a veritable


cephalopod-fest: grilled octopus, sauted octopus, stewed octopus
everywhere, giant tentacles in sh shops everywhere you walk.
Squid, I can nd here, but octopus is another mat...

Can Do
11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne FishbeinWhen my friend Barry e-mailed me about a


special dinner he had set up at Yi Cuisine, a multi-course
extravaganza in which every course involved Spam, my response
was probably not as grateful as it might have been. While I hav...

To Be Real
11 years ago

The Life Aquatic


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinLos Angeles has its virtues as a restaurant


town, this much cannot be denied. Within the metro area are
concentrations of restaurants from every part of Asia that dwarf
anything of their type in North America, Latin restaura...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

QUESTION: My husband and I are from Washington, D.C., which has


a number of delicious Cajun restaurants. We crave a really good
crawsh touffe, gumbo and those naughty, but oh-so-tasty,
beignets. Where can we nd that, short of h...

The Revolutionary: Ludovic Lefebvre at Bastide


11 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Ludovic Lefebvre may be the perfect chef for the media-saturated


world of Los Angeles kitchens, a young, great-looking Burgundian
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

229/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

world of Los Angeles kitchens, a young, great-looking Burgundian


guy with a classical background, avant-garde inclinations and a
serious ingredient fetish, as comfo...

Ask Mr. Gold


11 years ago

The Big Pull


11 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinMalan Noodles is like a fast-food restaurant


from another galaxy, a blank, gleaming space festooned with posters
bearing its abstracted red-bowl logo and marked every few feet with
signs reading Warning: Hot Soup.&rdq...

Noodle Nirvana
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinKrua Thai rocks on a Saturday evening, a


mini-mall noodle shop on North Hollywoods Thai strip, washed
with blaring music, illuminated with glowing neon rings, uorescent
bulbs and the glare from backlit photographs of...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Where can we nd good Belgian food? Were feeling


kind of Euro today. Susie, Pasadena ANSWER: Ah, Belgium, the
hungry mans land of enchantment, where the mussels are sold by
the kilo, the portions of steak tartare ar...

Morocco A Go-Go
12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne FishbeinIf your idea of a Moroccan meal includes


belly-dancing, silk pillows and the sensuous wail of the oud, the
Fairfax-district restaurant Chameau may not be for you. Instead of
exotic ululations (or even rai ballads), there is ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION:I tried calling the consulate as if I was searching for a


lost loved one. I contacted the Singapore Society. Alas, I cant nd
chili crab, an irresistible ery dish that I ate in an empty parking-lotcum-restaurant in Singapore wh...

Rock in Total Retrograde!


12 years ago

The Gringo Killer


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

230/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinAs bouillabaisse is the specialty of Marseilles


and paella the most famous dish of Valencia, jalea is the great
specialty of Limas industrial port suburb Callao, a fry-up reinforced
with tubers and oniony salsa that se...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Fufu. Fufu. Fu-fufu-fu . . . fufu. Say it soft, and it sounds


like praying. Say it loud, and theres music playing. But say it around
here and youll get absolutely no response at all. Where, pray tell,
may I nd some of thi...

The G Spot (Sans the Pleasure)


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinKate, a food-writer friend of mine in New


York, is a connoisseur of restaurant disasters, of overenthusiastically
ambed lobsters that scorch the ceiling, of salads garnished with
crawling grasshoppers, of Pellegrino...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Fire and Rice


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne FishbeinOf the thousands of East Asian restaurants


that have disappeared from Los Angeles in the 20 years Ive been
writing this column, one of the most mourned has been Agung, an
Indonesian caf in a Hollywood mini-mal...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Pho the Soul


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein The Los Angeles area is rich in restaurants


that provide a reasonable facsimile of the Vietnamese restaurant
experience, with abundant tripe and long-simmered pho and subtle
variations on noodle dishes that eat up seven or ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Id really like to know where I can order a killer plate of


simple proletarian, generic, everyday, average pad Thai. Maybe with
shrimp or tofu. Not all of us are Atkins lovers. I want a hot, steaming
piled-up plate of slightly swee...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

231/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Into the Deep


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein Zelo may be the great, undiscovered Los


Angeles pizza restaurant, an obscure storefront in a part of Arcadia
that I have always thought of as Greater Monrovia, tucked into a
strip of insurance brokers, mortgage-renance co...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Orris Takes Root


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein Tucked into the same complex as a shabushabu parlor, a pricey sushi bar and the local outlet of the boba chain
Lollicup, Orris is the newest citizen of Sawtelles Japanese-restaurant
row, with a long sushi-bar-like c...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I know all of the Chinese restaurants you like are 15


miles farther than Im willing to drive, but just this once, can you
recommend a really great place for dim sum that isnt all the way out
in San Gabriel? Jerry, Sa...

Lost in Translation
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Here we are back in Thaitown, that stubby,


narrow stretch of East Hollywood that sports the highest
concentration of Thai businesses in the Americas. And here we are
again in a cramped Thaitown mini-mall, this one anchored b...

Like White on Rice


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein "It is said," conjectures cookbook writer


Shizuo Tsuji, "that it takes 20 years to acquire enough experience to
make truly perfect rice." A block or two from Juniors Delicatessen,
squeezed into an unlikely storefront ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

QUESTION:I know were all supposed to have moved on to bitter

232/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

QUESTION:I know were all supposed to have moved on to bitter


melon or Mongolian squid pot or fake dog meat or something, but
Ive been feeling a little nostalgic for good old moo shoo pork. Maybe
its the melancholy of the seaso...

Best Dishes of 2004


12 years ago | Lists

Photos by Anne Fishbein Hanger steak with wasabi relish. Many


crimes have been committed in the name of "fusion cuisine, and not
a few of them in Los Angeles. But this cross of classical California
technique with Eastern avors at Bea...

Sweat, Semen and a Scream


12 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: With Christmas comes tamales, eets of tamales, barrels


of tamales tamales without surcease, without end. My sister, who is
a much better person than I am, frankly, spends an entire day, maybe
two, wrapping and steaming, steamin...

The Ladle From Shanghai


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The San Gabriel Valley at the moment is


crowded with restaurants serving the cooking of Shanghai and
eastern China with kitchen staffs recently emigrated from China
itself, bastions of the regions mellow brown sauces ...

The King Crab and I


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Japanese restaurants have always been


noted for their tendency to specialize, one in grilled chicken and one
in fried pork cutlets, one in ramen and one in udon, one in eel and
another in herring. A friend once visited a spe...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: As long as were on the subject of pies and we are on


the subject of pies, are we not? have you happened to come across
a chicken pot pie remotely as good as the ones they used to serve at
Ships. Ive t...

Nueva York
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photos by Anne Fishbein York Boulevard, as it shoots through the


heart of Highland Park, has always been rich in Mexican restaurants:
the Cal-Mex restaurant near the police museum whose potent

233/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

the Cal-Mex restaurant near the police museum whose potent


margaritas were praised by Joseph Wambaugh, the gentle...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Tiresome, I know, but I need to know where I can nd


the best banana cream pie. My marriage may depend on it. Lucy,
Alhambra ANSWER: There are two schools of thought when it
comes to banana cream pie in Los Angeles. The ve...

Fight Club
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Two men walk into a bar. Or rather, 102 men
walk into a bar, with room for maybe 50 of them, with its television
perversely set to Animal Planet instead of the Lakers game, with an
ambiance rather like alumni night at the Si...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Anything new in the world of dim sum? Empress and


Sea Harbour and 888 are swell, mind you, but Im getting a little
burned out on them. And dont tell me to go to Mission 261. I like to
think of myself as having an open mind,...

The World According to Ku


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein ON A STRETCH OF TEMPLE CITY


Boulevard crowded with fancy cake parlors and Chinese bridal
boutiques, the busiest corner at lunchtime belongs to the Chinese
noodle shop Dai Ho, its sidewalk thronged with people waiting for
one...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: A most esteemed and lately protein-minded associate of


Turkish-Philly extraction recently made a Proustian stumble on
sojouk, the spicy sausage and a childhood staple, in the rough-andready deli case at Jons market. With all respect to ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Im throwing myself a birthday party. Just because. And


I want to do it in a restaurant, because I just cant face another round
of Two-Buck Chuck, Zankou chicken, and that forlorn strawberry
whipped cream cake from Phoenix B...

Turkey Among Friends


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

12 years ago | Longform

234/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
12 years ago | Longform

Photo by Mark Hunter I may be the only person I know who actually
looks forward to cooking big Thanksgiving dinners, to peeling sacks
of potatoes, rinsing black grit from mountains of leeks, listening to
the soft pop-pop of cranberries simmering i...

Shades of Violet
12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne Fishbein In some cities, there are entire districts


devoted to restaurants like Violet, pleasant, mainstream bistros
whose virtues are most often summarized by their ratios of price to
quality. But in Los Angeles, where two people ca...

In the Soup
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In the wet dark of a late San Gabriel night, when 10,000 chairs
balance upright legs atop 3,000 Chinese restaurant tables, when the
sweet smells of burnt soy and toasted garlic fade into oor soap and
rotting sh, when the giant parking lots emp...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: What is your opinion on turkeys? Everybody is talking


about those super-special Slow Food turkeys, but they run about
$60 to $70. Is it worth it? Do I need to custom-order one? Or should
I just pick up the usual Butterball and to hell wi...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I was driving down Sunset the other day, looking (as
usual) for cheap parking near the ArcLight, when I passed a giant
sign heralding the Hollywood glamour of Schwabs. Schwabs?
Wasnt that a drugstore over on one of t...

The Last Burger Stand


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein ACROSS THE STREET FROM Hamburger


Marys and cater-cornered from the ultramodern City Hall, Irvs
Burgers is a patch of unreconstructed California in the epicenter of
sleek West Hollywood a bright Coca-Col...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Hi Concept
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photo by Anne Fishbein HI THAI NOODLE IS THE NEWEST


restaurant in Thai Town, a bright, noisy shotgun marriage between a

235/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

restaurant in Thai Town, a bright, noisy shotgun marriage between a


fast-food restaurant and a stylish caf, a collegiate hangout and a
serious noodle shop, staffed with a crew of young wo...

Serbian Americana
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein AT FIRST AND MAYBE EVEN second glance,


Metro Caf might be one of the least promising restaurants in Los
Angeles, a faux-50s diner attached to a stucco chain motel in Culver
City; its sign a glowing replica, it...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: Last week you wrote about what sounded like some
really good mozzarella. I like mozzarella I come from the part of
New Jersey where mozzarella is more a delicious milk-soaked
sponge than the art-gum erasers that seem to be called...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Beyond Urban Rustic


12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne Fishbein IF YOURE WONDERING what the


excitement is about at Gino Angelinis sleek new La Terza, you could
do worse than to look at the little pre-appetizer brought out along
with the wine list one night in late September. ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I realize you get asked this kind of thing a lot, but I
really, really like carnitas, especially the crunchy kind, and I really,
really dont want to drive all the way to Downey, or Pacoima, or
wherever the hell youre tellin...

Chicken Stew for the Soul


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Ethiopias bread, injera, is notoriously


difcult to make, a thin, oppy sheet that is as big as a yard sail and
as tart as lemons. There are recipes for Ethiopian stews whose lists
of ingredients stretch on for more...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

QUESTION: Vietnamese food is good. Wine is good. Vietnamese food


with wine is just excellent in Paris, Tan Dihn has one of the best
wine lists in the city, although the food may be less Vietnamese than
a fantasia on Vietnamese themes. Mang...

236/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

a fantasia on Vietnamese themes. Mang...

Oaxacan Snack Attack


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Antequera de Oaxaca is probably not the


most serious Oaxacan restaurant in Los Angeles. Guelaguetza since
its earliest days has been practically a museum of the cuisine, a
reliquary of the regions famous moles, fermen...

Oaxacan Snack Attack


12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Antequera de Oaxaca is probably not the most serious Oaxacan


restaurant in Los Angeles. Guelaguetza since its earliest days has
been practically a museum of the cuisine, a reliquary of the regions
famous moles, fermented beverages and snack...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Heavenly Creatures
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Since I started loitering in San Gabriel 15


years ago, the plaza at the southeast corner of Las Tunas and
Mission has always been my favorite mini-mall in Los Angeles, home
at various times to a Malaysian restaurant, a Japan...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Hot Rod
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Thai Town, that culinary paradise in East Hollywood, is home to


late-night noodle shops and curry-minded nightclubs, hot-pot
specialists and chicken parlors, formal restaurants with long menus
and dessert shops that feature a stew or two almost as...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: As a recent Chicago migr of unusual taste and


renement, I cannot help but notice that your fair city is entirely
bereft of establishments in which to purchase a decent Chicago-style
hot dog, surely the primary test of c...

The Art of Faux Paws


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

237/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Often, the art of cookery is to present a


great ingredient at its best, like a late-summer peach whose
peachiness is amplied, made even more delicious in a juicy, runny
tart baked by Euro Panes Sumi Chang. And somet...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I know you are probably sick of preening exNew


Yorkers proclaiming the superiority of their citys cuisine, but I used
to practically live on the soup dumplings at Joes Shanghai back in
the day, both the restaurant do...

America Childless
12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Top photo by James Scherer On television, Nancy Silverton and Julia


Child prepare a brioche tart, a pretty thing with caramelized peaches.
Silverton pulls the tart from the oven. Child guides her fork into the
tart and mists up, her jaw working, h...

Love, From Los Angeles


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein On a hot summer morning, there may be no


urban pleasure more satisfying than leaning against a palm tree in
MacArthur Park, the faded urban paradise that is gradually being
restored to the sleek, mysterious beauty recognizab...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: So: Thai desserts. Which I like in theory and everything,


but then I end up with bars of translucent green jelly that smell like
Mr. Zogs Sex Wax, disturbing little hamburger patties made from
coconut and taro, numbingly sweet Thai tacos...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Good to the Bone


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein PHILLIPS HAS BEEN ACKNOWLEDGED to


be the nest Los Angeles barbecue stand for almost 15 years now, a
dim, battered, table-free chamber hidden off an urban parking lot, a
grease-smeared takeout window with the ambianc...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: You would think, in a city with almost as many Middle


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

238/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

QUESTION: You would think, in a city with almost as many Middle


Eastern bakeries as Jack in the Box drive-thrus, there would be
someplace to get decent baklawa. (Baklawa, I insist, not baklava: ww-w-w-w baklawa. Theres all the diff...

Kingston
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo of Anne Fishbein NATRALIART IS ONE OF THE NODES of


Jamaican culture in Los Angeles, a high-ceilinged restaurant on a
faded corner of Washington where the background reggae pounds
out of Peavey speakers on the dining-room oor, the big telev...

My Big Fat Greek Dinner


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Mama Voulas is a new Greek restaurant in a


classic Westside mini-mall, sandwiched between a kosher Iranian
kebab shop and a Japanese teriyaki joint, hard by a Oaxacan
restaurant and the drive-thru lane of a Burger Kin...

Post-Puck Generation
12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Raul Vega The rst time I went to Manhattan with some
money in my pocket, I made a reservation at a restaurant reputed to
be the best in New York at the time, a place with four stars from The
New York Times, a celebrity clientele, and an...

Don't Call It a Comeback


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein In Culver Citys arts district, tted into an


old commercial laundry in the Helms Bakery complex, not far from
Sony, Beacon caf is possibly the most visible new restaurant in
town, as brightly lit at night as ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: A friend from Australia is dying for a good Indonesian


murtabak Malaysian will also be okay. (Californians look for
Mexican food when theyre homesick abroad, but Aussies do
Indonesian instead.) We will go anywhere! ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Question: When I lived in New York, I would sometimes schlep out


to Jay & Lloyds, what I think may be the best delicatessen in the ve
boroughs, for its version of the Catskills classic RPG: roast pork on
garlic bread with duck sauce. Jay ...

From Hollywood to Bollywood


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

239/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The last few months have seen any number
of spectacular new places to eat in Los Angeles, from the dazzling
new restaurant of Floridian fusionist Norman Van Aken to a new
dumpling place in Alhambra, from great new East L.A. ...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: When I was in Bangkok, a lot of the restaurants served a


dish of plain rice topped with mustard greens and what tasted like a
stewed ham hock it was like the food I grew up on back in Texas,
only Thai. Have you run across anythin...

Beyond Coffee and Cigarettes

SIGNUP
LOGIN

12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein In Mexican cities, every neighborhood


worth its frijoles has at least one cafeteria basically a caf. A
cafeteria is a multifunctional institution, open from morning until
late at night, serving caf co...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I returned from a weeklong business trip in Japan truly


loving one dish: yakisoba. Something about the curry avor and
savory noodles tapped directly into the spaghetti section of my
Western-trained taste buds. With so man...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Office Space
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein No institution in the culinary world is less


lovable than the ofce-building cafeteria, that entrept of damp
salads, soggy mufns and nipple-topped Arrowhead water priced
like splits of ne champagne. The co...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: You said in a recent review that the pancakes at the


Griddle Cafe are not the best pancakes in Los Angeles. Pray tell,
where are the best pancakes in L.A.? (Mmmmmm, pancakes . . . !)
Nancy, Glendale ANSWER: The inevitable answer t...

Very Asia
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein In that peculiar corner of Palms where


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

240/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Photo by Anne Fishbein In that peculiar corner of Palms where


National Boulevard runs at right angles to itself, next door to a minimart locally famous for its offer of a free smoothie to anyone
presenting a ticket stub from The Passion of the Ch...

Green With Envy


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein If you grew up in California in the 80s,


chances are pretty good that you rst experienced New Mexican
food not in a roadhouse outside Taos, but in the restaurants of John
Sedlar and Mark Miller: mythical creations o...

Ask Mr. Gold

SIGNUP

LOGIN

12 years ago

QUESTION: I grew up on the ice cream at the old Wil Wrights on


Beverly Drive, and I adored the enormous banana splits at Poppys.
When provoked, I can work up a tear or two for the Zoo at Farrells,
or even the malteds at the ol...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

The Breakfast Club


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein THE GRIDDLE IS LOUD on a Sunday


morning, really loud: clattering pans, a hundred shouted
conversations, amplied rock & roll bouncing off the high ceilings at
such volume and with such distortion that it is hard to tell whe...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I notice that you have been spending time lately


addressing such pointless topics as pork noodle soup, gourmet
hamburgers and so-called burritos that dont even have any beans in
them. When are you going to get back t...

A Life in 10 Cars
12 years ago | Longform

1. 1954 Studebaker Commander station wagon. My parents are eating


popcorn at the old Centinela Drive-In. I doze, in feetie pajamas
between them. My mothers water breaks. Six years later, I nally
catch the last half-hour of Babes in Toyland...

Where To Eat Now: Drive Thru


12 years ago

Donut Hole. La Puente may not be on the way to anything in


particular, but it is home to the renowned Donut Hole, a drive-thru
doughnut shop anchored by a giant hemi-doughnut at either end, a
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

241/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

doughnut shop anchored by a giant hemi-doughnut at either end, a


1947 architectural triumph. From a couple of blocks awa...

Wedge Issues
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The rst trick a professional deli man


masters is probably the Wedge, which is to say the sleight of hand by
which the meat and bread of an ordinarily overstuffed sandwich are
manipulated to resemble the most generous sandw...

Ask Mr. Gold


SIGNUP
12 years ago

best carneLOGIN
QUESTION: Where can you nd the
asada burritos in Los
Angeles? It seems there are countless options for a delicious, meaty
burrito in San Diego with price tags that make a burrito taste that
much better, but the search here has not yie...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: I moved to L.A. last summer, and despite the wealth of


Asian restaurants in town, I cant seem to nd a good Vietnamese
place. Im looking for authentic pho, not Korean-ized pho (which Ive
had and thought was terrible...

Lost in Tampopo
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein THEN poke the pork. There probably


hasnt been a review of a ramen restaurant in the last 18 years that
hasnt referenced the movie Tampopo, more or less The Passion of
the Christ for people ...

Revenge of the NSW


12 years ago

Young, Dumb and Full of Cumin


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein On a cool evening, Little Sheep is fragrant


with cumin, drenched with cumin, so cumin-intensive that cuminavored water vapor trickles down the inside of the restaurants
windows and the dining room is dotted with li...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Builders Emporium

242/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Builders Emporium

12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein When I was a small child in Los Angeles, a


vanished paradise where the freeways owed like swift water and
the Dodgers won the pennant every year, the single most wonderful
restaurant in the universe was a place called Wood...

Beauty in Chaos
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Taiwanese noodle shop is a peculiar animal, devoted to noodles,


thick soups and a never-ending selection of small refrigerated
appetizers. There will usually be a deep-fried item or two, and a
fairly comprehensive roster of boba drinks. (Boba ...
SIGNUP

Ask Mr. Gold

LOGIN

12 years ago

QUESTION: I HAVE A DATE THIS SATURDAY WITH A LADY FROM


PERU. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW OF ANY GOOD PERUVIAN
RESTAURANTS IN THE HOLLYWOOD AREA. THANKS FOR YOUR
TIME. Kenn, Los Angeles ANSWER: See that rectangular Chiclet
directly to...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

Wines on Target
12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Making wine is an impressive thing to do


a hundred luxurious chateaux in the Napa Valley speak to the Robb
Report prestige of putting ones name on a nice bottle of something
red. But sommeliers, the guys who put...

Thirteen Ways of Looking at Nirvana


12 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: The French dip is often written about in Los Angeles as


if it were a religion or something, as if we were so damned lucky to
live in a city clever enough to have invented such a wonderful
sandwich. Yet outside the terms of the so-called ...

A Slab of Crab
12 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photo by Anne Fishbein The best single bite of anything Ive tasted
all year was probably the crab sushi at Sushi Tenn, over on the
Japanese-restaurant strip of Sawtelle. Crab sushi tends to be fairly
circumscribed in Los Angeles, usually se...

243/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

circumscribed in Los Angeles, usually se...

Ask Mr. Gold


12 years ago

QUESTION: After reading your review of Sapp, we felt like our secret
had been discovered. It is like so many good, friendly places we
found in Thailand. But where, oh where, is there a place that excels
in the rich and satisfying noodle stew of no...

It Takes Two To Fritanga


12 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Behold, the fritanga plate in all its


SIGNUP
magnicence, a crunchy tower of protein and shaved
green bananas
LOGIN

reaching almost halfway to heaven. You will nd the well-marinated


Nicaraguan-style carne asada on the plate, in long h...

The Great White Shark...Casserole


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Of the scores of redevelopment projects


south of downtown Los Angeles, my favorite may be Mercado La
Paloma, a cavernous old warehouse rehabbed by a nonprot
cooperative into a dusty, dimly lit fantasy of a Mexican street m...

Among the Believers


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The Iranian community in Los Angeles is a


massive entity, with miles of Farsi-language signs on nightclubs and
supermarkets and accountancy rms, bookstores and boutiques, law
rms and Mercedes repair shops. The Iranian mu...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Ive always admired your taste in food. Could you


suggest the tastiest, spiciest, most intense food experience within,
say, 20 miles of the corner of La Cienega and Sunset? Jeff,
Hollywood ANSWER: I have answered this questi...

Number Wonton
13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein What do we mean when we talk about


wonton? Are wonton the fried trapezoids in sickly pink syrup that we
may have eaten as children? Are they the oppy things that Sichuan
restaurants douse in chile oil, or the doughy sinker...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

244/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Monster Burrito
13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Where trafc begins to thin and the


Westside starts to atten out into the Ballona Wetlands, at the
intersection of Culver and Inglewood boulevards is a small Mexican
neighborhood unto itself a clump of businesses ...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

SIGNUP

Maria Had a Little Lamb

LOGIN

13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein El Borrego de Oro is a caf hard by the


doughnut shop in an Eastside mini-mall, a cramped storefront
dominated by a giant juicing machine, and a dining room, if you can
call it that, jammed into a narrow, L-shaped spa...

Koreatown's Top 40
13 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Raul Vegaand Anthony Allen Twenty-odd years ago, I


lived in a neighborhood that was then called Wilshire Center, in a
large apartment, probably grand in its day, with Palladian windows,
an oddly placed stairwell, and carpet that hadn&rsq...

Mr. Baguette Takes on Mr. Lee


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photos by Anne Fishbein Henry Ford applied the concept of the


assembly line to automobile manufacture; August Escofer to the
vast hotel banquet kitchen. The McDonald brothers broke American
diner cooking down into a set of simple, easily replica...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Youve hinted at authentic Sichuan restaurants in


Monterey Park. Could you please provide more information about
these? I am looking for some good ones. Thanks. Ingrid Mok
ANSWER: There is almost a Sichuan-restaurant neighbo...

Keep on Trucking
13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photo by Anne Fishbein For a long time now, the busiest Eastside
taqueras have planted lunch wagons in their parking lots out back
on weekends, doubling the rate of taco production on busy

245/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

on weekends, doubling the rate of taco production on busy


Saturdays and getting use out of the trucks that l...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: When I was in Honolulu a few weeks ago, I had my


mind blown by something called loco moco, a weird and lling
breakfast dish that must have weighed in at 2,600 calories at least. I
hadnt been expecting anything more profound than...

Two Guys Walk Into a Bar . . .


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

SIGNUP

LOGIN

Photo by Anne Fishbein My friend Robert Sietsema, co-founder of


the Organ Meat Society and editor of the food zine Down the Hatch,
is well known for his insistence that the best food in New York City is
always at least 20 minutes and two bus trans...

Mission Accomplished
13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Mission 261, the latest dim sum megalopolis
in San Gabriel, may be the most ambitious Chinese restaurant ever
to open in the United States: a mammoth Cantonese banquet hall
tted into a sprawling adobe complex built a hundr...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: On the Sawtelle Boulevard strip, near the two Giant


Robot stores and pretty much in the middle of the Westsides Little
Tokyo, there is a sort of ordinary-looking sushi bar on the east side
of the street that always has a line. Alw...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: I think I may need a primer here. Ive tried to get a


simple meal of steamed tilapia from the live tank, with soup and a
side of Chinese broccoli, for several weeks in a row. I cannot
remember the names of all the places Ive...

What To Eat Now: The Year's Best Dishes


13 years ago | Lists

1 Suckling pig. Or rather, a small but not insignicant portion of a


suckling pig no larger than a house cat, brined and roasted and
roasted and brined until its skin is as thin and crisp as the burnt wisp
of sugar that tops a really good cr&egra...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold

246/282

7/6/2016

Ask Mr. Gold

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

13 years ago

QUESTION: I am blessed with a wonderful roommate. For her


birthday, I would like to take her and her friends to a mildly
affordable authentic Greek restaurant, but Im not sure where to go
in the Hollywood area. My roommate was a resident of...

Eazy Does It
13 years ago

Beauty and the Boat Noodles


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

SIGNUP
Photo by Anne Fishbein There is nothing at rst
glance to distinguish
LOGIN in Thai Town,
Sapp Coffee Shop from any of the other restaurants
neither an unusually inviting steam table nor a concentration in
game, neither a late-night rock & roll crowd n...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Im trying to nd a restaurant to go to for Thanksgiving


dinner. Could you recommend a restaurant or two that does a
traditional but interesting Thanksgiving menu? Liz Barrett
ANSWER: Traditional? The Tick Tock is long gone...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Chicken Madness
13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Mexican-American chefs roast a mean


chicken; anyone who has spent 15 minutes in Huntington Park can
tell you that. Armenian roast chickens spit and sizzle across
Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley; Tuscan roast chickens d...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: I know Jessica Simpson wont touch Buffalo wings


because she doesnt eat buffalo, but I do, dammit. Eat Buffalo wings, I
mean. Where can I nd them without darkening the door of my local
Hooters, a practice that has traditio...

Drive, He Said
13 years ago

Photo by Debra DiPaolo Paella for eight may be a dinner party, but
supper for 30 is a battle royal. And while I have endured more than
my share of mass feeds, frying 200 pieces of chicken or 300 latkes in
an afternoon, peeling and chopping vegetab...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

247/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Its fun to crawl East L.A. looking for taco stands. But is
it possible to get great carnitas in a restaurant where you can
actually sit down, hear some music and maybe get a margarita or
two? Ive tried to take dates to El G...

Variations in the Key of Taco


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Los Angeles is littered with taco stands of


every imaginable genus: taco stands with stone-authentic replicas of
Sinaloan cooking and soul-food taco stands, Yucatecan
taco stands
SIGNUP
and Colima-style taco stands, taco stands wit...LOGIN

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Congee, or rice porridge, has always struck me as the


nest of breakfasts: nutritious, light and utterly absorptive, which,
after the kind of nights out Ive been having lately, strikes me as a
redemptive virtue, indeed. Yet the T...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Question: A Somali friend of mine is jonesin for some good goat. I


think she might be open to various forms (even birria!). Could you
suggest two or three excellent spots? Thanks. Titus Levi, Los
Angeles Answer: I was just thinking a...

Dhaba Dhaba Do
13 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne Fishbein On a stretch of Westwood Boulevard thick


with student coffeehouses and Iranian hair salons, Ambala Dhaba is
an outpost of the Punjab, a branch of a restaurant noted on Artesias
Little India strip for its ery goat cu...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

QUESTION: My husband and I lived in Taiwan for a year and we


really miss the food, especially the breakfasts. There was a hot soy

248/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

really miss the food, especially the breakfasts. There was a hot soy
milk soup that you would eat along with a special little omelet and
steamed dumplings. Where can we nd this kind of...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: For years I have purchased lahmajunes at the Armenian


bakery near the corner of Santa Monica Boulevard and Kenmore
Street, but was crushed to nd they have gone out of business. Any
suggestions as to where else I might nd these wonder...

Fajita pitas, Octopus Tacos, and the Birth of California Cuisine


13 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

SIGNUP

1 When Michaels opens in 1979, there are otherLOGIN


serious dining rooms

in Los Angeles, including Ma Maison and the newish, ultraluxe


LOrangerie, which bestrides La Cienega like a Louis Quinze bank
lobby. Only a year before, my high school...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Ive eaten a dish at Persian restaurants that seems to be


basically a thin, crunchy cake of fried white rice with a delicious
green stew on top. What is this dish, and where can I nd it on the
west side of town? Emmy, West...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Help out a homesick expat. In Singapore and Malaysia


we love eating buttery rotis with a bowl of dal (often with chunks of
meat) for breakfast. Where in the Southland can we nd such
comestibles? Patrick, Santa Monica ANSW...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Enough of the blood sausage, carnitas, kid and tripe.


This is summer, after all, and Im in the mood for something light and
a little profound. Im looking specically for a restaurant that serves
jin thoke, that beautifully...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Its your fault, you know. Philips BBQ got my entire
family addicted to Friday-evening drives down to Leimert for pork
ribs with hot sauce. I hold you personally responsible for the shakes
I get on Sundays when Philip...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

249/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: A few months ago, you mentioned a source for great


merguez sausage. But what Ive been looking for is boudin noir, the
black stuff, the real ooze. Because lately, Ive been in the mood for a
little type-O negative, if you kno...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

SIGNUP

QUESTION: At Indian street festivals, there is often


a guy or two
LOGIN
slung around
wandering around with a big cooler
his shoulders,
selling what seems to be a thick kind of Indian ice cream formed into
the shape of tall, inverted cones and jammed ont...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Question: Im going to be spending a certain amount of time at the


convention center next week, and I was wondering: Where do I go to
eat? I am so, so over the Pantry. Zack, Emeryville Answer: I agree.
If the cooking at the Pan...

Salty Prose: Judy Rodgers and the Art of the Cookbook


13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

question: Can you tell me where in this city I can nd tripe? And I
dont mean menudo, tripe tacos, or that Vietnamese tripe that looks
like bathing caps, but good, old-fashioned tripe. Theres got to be
some place out there that does...

Picnic at the Temple


13 years ago | Travel

Coldwater Canyon Boulevard is drab and endless as it courses


through North Hollywood, lined with cheap liquor stores, auto body
shops and the bland apartment buildings that local architects call
dingbats. But at the upper end of the street, right ...

Fish and Fox Tales


13 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The famous baked sh at Phong Dinh is a


monster of an animal, a thick-skinned Vietnamese catsh barely shy
of a yard, blackened and smoking, the twin prongs of its signature
mustachio charred into crumbling Salvador Dali c...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

250/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

question: Where can I nd good albondigas? I mean, really, really


good albondigas, the kind my Nana used to make? Im pretty sure
you never tasted my Nanas albondigas, but trust me you would
have liked them. Rafael, Ma...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

question: Where are those crunchy yet at the same time juicy
carnitas I have been looking for? Lares on PicoSIGNUP
Boulevard does a
pretty good job, but Im hoping youll lead me to
the real deal!
LOGIN

Jordan Altadena ...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

QUESTION: Like Johnny Cash (and Trent Reznor, I suppose), I am


very much in a mood to hurt myself today, just to see if I can feel. But
Im afraid of the sight of blood, especially my own, so I was hoping
chile peppers might do the trick. An...

Ask Mr. Gold


13 years ago

Q: With the world ending and everything, I am in sore need of


comfort food. Does anybody still make old-fashioned rice pudding?
Janice Hollis Pacic Palisades A: Leaving aside the variations
glazed with passion fruit or crusted with a cara...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: My friends George and Em have some friends who went to


Bastide. They tried to order the $60 dinner, and were told that only
the $90 menu would give the full Bastide experience. So they agreed.
Then trufes were brought to the table, and they w...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: Where can I nd a barbecue beef brisket in L.A. that doesnt need


to be cut with a hacksaw? Robert Lu A: Having spent a fair amount
of time cruising around Texas looking for the next brisket down the
road, I feel your pain. Really...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

251/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: I will be arriving back home in L.A. after a yearlong stint in Japan.


I wonder what my life will be like after having had the pleasure of
dining at authentic Japanese revolving sushi restaurants. Do these
exist in L.A. or will I have to suffer ...

The Power of Bao


SIGNUP
14 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

LOGIN
Photos by Anne Fishbein Like the offshore winds, or the ZIP codes of

independent lm producers, the locus of Los Angeles dim sum is


forever moving east. Herein, a few of our favorites. Sea Harbor. As
much as it pains me to admit it, the Ca...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: A friend told me about a joint that serves grilled split chickens


with a red marinade on top of French fries, on the north side of the
street toward downtown. Not Pollo a la Brasa. Any idea what and
where it is? Jeff Fischer A: My rst ...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: Ever since the demise of the much-missed Ships, Ive been


wondering: Where can I nd that chicken potpie Ive been dreaming
of for so long? Im talking about thick chunks of chicken, creamy
lling, and pastry crust ab...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: I just moved here from New Jersey and Ive been searching
frantically for a taste of back home good cannolis, like the ones my
mom makes. Rosanna, Beverly Hills A: I myself once saw a glimpse
of nirvana in a cannoli, althou...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ask Mr. Gold

252/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: Ive been nostalgic for old-fashioned carnitas. Any suggestions? A:


Porkys has been pumping out carnitas on the Whittier Boulevard
strip for as long as anyone can remember not subtle, heart-healthy
carnitas, but the hard, c...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: I just got back from Cairo, where I tried several versions of a sour
green soup called miloukia. Ever run across this in Los Angeles? D.
Berkowitz, Hollywood A: Miloukia, the name of a Middle Eastern
herb as well as the soup made out of ...
SIGNUP

Ask Mr. Gold

LOGIN

14 years ago

Q: Where have you been going for dim sum lately? Y. Ramirez,
Silver Lake A: Seaworld, a palace of ziggurats and chandeliers and
sh tanks, is neither the best nor the worst Cantonese seafood
restaurant in town, but the dim sum has been gre...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: I recently ate wonderful carne seca in Tucson, but have looked for
the dish in vain in Los Angeles. Have you found any Mexican
restaurants with a good version of it? Ian Barnard A: There are
versions of carne seca from all over Mexico in...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q:Do you know any Chinese restaurants in L.A. that serve bitter
melon (ku gua)? It's the weirdest-looking of all vegetables and, as the
name suggests, profoundly bitter - a vegetable that seems to make
its own vinegar. It's an acquired taste - ind...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Q: Ive been to Yabu and the little noodle shop in the Mitsuya
supermarket on Centinela at Venice Boulevard, but I am still in
search of the ultimate soba joint. C. Evans A: Soba may be the
ultimate Japanese noodle: moistly crunchy gr...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Question:Its Halloween today got any Faustian bargains? Answer:

253/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Question:Its Halloween today got any Faustian bargains? Answer:


Chipotle Mexican Grill is a newish mega-chain of burrito outlets
popping up in malls and plexes all over the country. The fauxindustrial architecture comes from...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Question: Some of us are vegetarians who go to a wide variety of


restaurants, because we live in the real world with non-vegetarian
friends. My favorites include Nyala Restaurant, Sante Brea and Real
Food Daily. Can you offer any other suggestions...

SIGNUP

Ask Mr. Gold

LOGIN

14 years ago

Question: The Westside has plenty of places to get breakfast, but


theyre pretty fancy, with fancy prices. My family is looking for a
really good, plain old coffee-shop breakfast, like Raes only better,
preferably with shredde...

The Deli Counter


14 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Anne Fishbein AFTER EXPLORING THE DELIS OF NEW


YORK, CHICAGO AND OTHER U.S. cities, Gourmet magazine
restaurant critic and L.A. Weekly Counter Intelligence columnist
JONATHAN GOLD concludes that his own hometown, Los Angeles,
has the most...

Ask Mr. Gold


14 years ago

Question: I am faced with the unexpected arrival of friends who have


asked me, an insular San Fernando Valley resident, to nd a place
where six of us can meet for brunch on Sunday. They will be staying
in midtown. --Bernice Lieberman Answer: It ...

Driving While Hungry


14 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photos by Anne Fishbein THE CARHOP IS DEFUNCT. THE LAST


DRIVE-IN THEATER has been shuttered. The drive-in church in
Garden Grove brought its act indoors long ago. As far as I know,
drive-in shoe repair, drive-in psychics and drive-in art museums a...

Chile Scenes of Summer


14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Chung Kings fried chicken with hot peppers is the red of silk
pajamas, the red of recrackers, the red of the Chinese ag, a knoll of
crunchy dark-meat cubes subsumed under a blizzard of fried chiles.
If Chuck Jones had ever decided to dr...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Original Sinaloa

254/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Original Sinaloa
14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

When executed properly, machaca, a sort of red-brown heap of fried


beef jerky, is one of the great dried-beef dishes of the world, an
intense distillation of the avors of the Mexican West, all salt and
smoke and heat, with a slight marine smack ...

Pho West, Young Man


14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

In some parts of Los Angeles, Vietnamese noodle shops are as thick


on the ground here as they are in Hanoi, and a bowl of pho, the
SIGNUP
northern Vietnamese dish of slithery rice noodles,
fragrant beef
broth and leafy herbs, is as easy to nd as a BigLOGIN
...

Silver Clouds
14 years ago | Longform

ON THE MORNING OF SEPTEMBER 11, I WAS standing next to the


Brooklyn Bridge when the rst tower fell, close enough to feel the
shockwave, to absorb the burnt-plastic reek that had already begun
to make its way across the river, to hear the terribl...

O Brodard, Where Art Thou?


14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

San Gabriel may be the center of Shanghainese cooking in the Los


Angeles area, and Monterey Park the location of grand Cantonese
restaurants. Alhambra is home to Noodleville, that section of Valley
Boulevard crowded with multi-ethnic Asian noodle ...

A Neighborhood Just West of Downtown


14 years ago | Longform

May 7, 1992 -- It is 8 oclock, and the light has started to fade as I sit
on the oor of my apartment staring at the spot where the rain not
so much dripped as oozed from the doorjamb a couple of months
ago, swelling the wood and leaving...

Changing Lanes
14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein The rst time I visited Mr. Ts Bowl was
probably sometime back in the earliest 90s, on a warm Saturday
morning in late spring. Mr. Ts, you understand, was less a bowling
alley than an enormous Highland ...

Eat, Like, a Pig


14 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Even for Koreatown, L.A. Toad was a mysterious restaurant, a Seoulstyle snack shop whose untranslated menu was written on the
chopstick wrappers, a place with as many different kinds of
pancakes as an IHOP, boiled pork innards garnished with raw ...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

255/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

pancakes as an IHOP, boiled pork innards garnished with raw ...

Highway 6 Revisited
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A 10-minute taxi ride from downtown Phnom Penh, out past the
colonial mansions of the international district and over the squat
Japanese Friendship Bridge on the national Highway 6, the biggest
concentration of restaurants in Cambodia lies along t...

The 17th Level


15 years ago | Longform

SIGNUP
If you grew up in Los Angeles, at least part of your
life probably
revolved around Farmers Market, the intimate LOGIN
expanse of fruit stalls
between Du-pars and the Magees wooden mule that kicks when the
attendant grinds the horseradish, th...

Next Stop, Green Village


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Braised meats are doing better box ofce than even Russell Crowe at
the moment, from the tripe at Osteria Angelini to the veal cheeks at
Spago, the carnitas at Border Grill to the pork-belly appetizer at Jar.
Braising is a gentle way to cook the ...

Hey, Babita
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A decade or so ago, when culture- page editors were still trying to


come to that part of Los Angeles that didnt happen to be contiguous
with Beverly Hills, a little before television commentators learned to
curl their lips into a sneer when...

Eat, Memory
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A couple of Januarys ago, my wife brought a bag of blobby, yellow


fruit home to the Manhattan apartment where we were then living,
cradling the fragrant parcel as if it were a rare gift from a distant
land. I would have recognized this fruit even ...

5 Good Streets
15 years ago | Longform

1. Pico Boulevard starts near a giant Coca-Cola bottle and ends up at


a surng beach, is a main thoroughfare of Central Americans,
Koreans, Africans and Iranian Jews, and yet theres almost always a
place to park. You know how at some partie...

Five Places To Eat Shrimp and Drink Heavily on a Sunday


Afternoon
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

256/282

7/6/2016

Afternoon

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
15 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

1. San Pedro Fish Market and Restaurant. Steamed live Dungeness


crabs served with mallets. Deep-fried carp. Beer sold from an icelled bin. And shrimp fajitas fried hard with garlic, peppers and
onions, which you eat while you watc...

5 Web Sites To Read, Hands Trembling, At 3 A.M.


15 years ago | Longform

1. debka.com. We start where the media stop. Only half of the


ultraspooky stuff on this Israel-based intelligence e-zine, beloved by
end-of-days fundamentalists, among others, will turn out to be true.
The problem is guring out which...

10 Insects To Look for In 2002

SIGNUP
LOGIN

15 years ago | Longform

1. Africanized honeybees. Now swarming in a location near you. 2.


Tomato worms. Big, green and scary as hell, able to smell fear in an
Early Girl from a distance of 2,000 yards and reduce a Big Boy to
scarlet ooze in a matter of seconds. There is ...

And Then There Was Beef


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Golden Deli, you may not need to be told, is one of the best
Vietnamese noodle shops in Southern California, a well-worn citadel
of banh hoi and pho in a busy San Gabriel mini-mall, a restaurant so
popular that its customers wait up to an hour for...

Spicy With Spicy


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The aftermath of a dinner at Huas Garden is like a Francis Bacon


painting splashed across the tabletop in shades of red -- gory
puddles of scarlet juice alive with Sichuan peppercorns, scraps of
scallions, chewed bits of gristle, pounded ri...

Will the Real Taipan Please Stand Up, Please Stand Up?
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Taipan is one of those Chinese restaurants that you could walk by a


hundred times without slowing down, a nice, clean-lined cafe
plopped down among the convenience stores and fast-food outlets
in an Arcadia mini-mall. The restaurants name, ...

A Mantu for All Seasons


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Poised between Resedas Persian commercial strip to the south and a


smallish Chinese community to the north, Afghan House lies in what
amounts to an Afghan mini-mall tucked behind a busy Burger King
drive-thru. To one side of the restaurant i...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

257/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Engineering 101
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Those of us who crave great Chinese


dumplings on weekend mornings long ago learned to bow to the
tyranny of the masses, joining the throngs milling around Empress
Pavilion or the foyer of Yung Ho, edging out Mercedes sedans ...

The City So Nice They Named It Twice


15 years ago | A Considerable Town

It is surprising how ordinary everything seems on the day after the


catastrophe in New York, although each movement is articulated as
if it were blocked out in a play. We walk through daily routines trying
to believe that careful attention to deta...
SIGNUP

LOGIN

The Comeback
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Above a sleek Thai supermarket and behind a soaring Buddhist


shrine, concert strobes ashing, vibrating with the sounds of 12piece rock bands on the huge stage, the L.A. Food Court at Thailand
Plaza was the single greatest monument to Thai cooki...

Notes on the Taco Gap


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

It is possible, at ruinous expense, to nd sushi in Los Angeles whose


construction rises well above the Tokyo norm. The pizza at Alto
Palato compares very nicely with much of the pizza you nd in
Rome. Koreatown is home to any number of restaura...

The Seamless Dream


15 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Sasha Carrillo Hot Dog on a Stick In a ne restaurant, service can be


almost a mystical thing: glasses relled, silver adjusted, tablecloths
crumbed so subtly that it is easy to forget there is a third party
involved, vague yearnings for red win...

Cinnamon, Cloves and Cardamom


15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A proper Indian biryani is one of the nest rice dishes of the world, a
vast, smoking mound of seasoned basmati rice cooked with meat or
vegetables. Pakistani cooks sometimes make great biryanis,
superheated and fragrant with spice, although the ...

L.A. to N.Y.
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Photo by Anne Fishbein If you have lived in Los Angeles more than a
couple of years, you may remember the sort of Los Angeles stories
that used to be a staple of national (and British) magazines, the
colorful journals of writers parachuting into t...

258/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

colorful journals of writers parachuting into t...

Yayo Lives
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For a long time, everybody I knew went to Dos Arbolitos, a tiny


converted hamburger stand in a supermarket parking lot on the San
Fernando Valleys northern plain that was the source of some of the
most directly delicious Mexican cooking in ...

Hainan Chicken
15 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Hainan is by all accounts Chinas answer to


SIGNUP
Hawaii, a warm, lush island with beaches of ne,
white sand, a
tropical wonderland famous for the
of its mangoes,
succulenceLOGIN
abundant pineapples, and the delicate avor of ...

Wiener Take All


16 years ago

Canary Canary is an Iranian sandwich shop on Westwoods Iranian


strip, a house of kebabs in the most kebab-intensive neighborhood
in California. (As W.C. Fields once said of the garlic-packing town of
Gilroy, you could marinate a steak just ...

Pig Out
16 years ago

Antojitos Denises In Los Angeles, good carnitas are common, great


carnitas rare. Denises is a small, sweet taco stand whose customer
base consists largely of people waiting for the MTA at the bus stop
right in front. A caricature of ...

Super Bowls
16 years ago

Heavy Noodling Heavy Noodling specializes in the sort of strands


100 generations of Chinese chefs have regarded with horror: thick,
clumsy noodles that run somewhere between spaetzle and
pappardelle, self-consciously rustic things that taste mainl...

Ah, Chiu Chow!


16 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein 888 Did I say Chiu Chow? My rst meal at
888 which included a garlicky terrine of beef shank; crunchy, tofuskin-wrapped dumplings of fresh crabmeat and taro (crab balls); a
soft, fragrant lamb stew (seasonal); and ...

Restaurants That Are Older Than Your Mom


16 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Ciros Some denitions: 1) A auta is a corn tortilla wrapped around


a meat lling and fried crisp. Stylistically, autas can range from the

259/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

a meat lling and fried crisp. Stylistically, autas can range from the
greasy things your college dorm used to serve, to the giant, tasteless,
alto-ute-size roll-ups...

From Formosa With Love


16 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Chicken Garden Chicken Garden is a nearly elegant, bare-bones sort


of place with soft lights and framed calligraphy. Everybody seems to
be nibbling off-the-menu Taiwanese hors doeuvres, things like
smoked beef strips, or small fried sh wi...

The Great Outdoors


16 years ago

SIGNUP

LOGIN to operate
Cha Cha Chicken Although Cha Cha
Chicken seems
mostly as a takeout stand, the patio off to the side is a pleasant place
on a hot night, dotted with thatched palapas, enhanced by owers
growing out of old tomato-juice cans, ocean breeze...

More Than Enough


16 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein Chinese banquets are extremely ne things,


exquisitely choreographed successions of tastes and textures that
are greater than each dish on its own, long-form essays in freshness
and style that tend to play themselves out on...

Shafted!
16 years ago

Agung Agung has all the stuff that would be standard if Indonesian
food were as common as Thai: good, clumpy fried rice with scallions
and ham; delicious bakmi noodles, a sort of spicy Indonesian chow
mein, fried with dark soy, shrimp and plenty o...

Frankie Goes to Hollywood


16 years ago

All India Cafe The conceit here is dishes from each of the regions of
India -- tandoori meats from the north and masala dosa from the
south, salads and Bombay-style uttapam -- ltered through the softfocus lens of the All India kitchen and washe...

Supersize It!
16 years ago

China Islamic Restaurant Almost as soon as you walk into the


restaurant, youll be asked if you want sesame bread (you do), a thick
disk of atbread made to order, the size of a Chicago-style pizza,
crust baked to a shattering crispness tha...

L.A. When It Sizzles


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

16 years ago

260/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
16 years ago

Alameda Swap Meet The big food stall under the awning closest to
the main building here is a full-on Mexican restaurant without the
walls, featuring grilled chicken, carne asada and steam-table dishes:
chile verde, chicken mole and a really good, ...

Holy Moles
16 years ago

Alegria The best food here revolves around the extraordinary mole
sauce: sharp, thick, sweetly complex, with top notes of smoke, clove
and citrus, lashed with dried-chile heat, black enough to darken the
brightest Pepsodent smile. (It takes two da...

Heart and Seoul

SIGNUP

LOGIN

16 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Let Kansas City have its fried chicken, San Francisco its cioppino.
Los Angeles is a world center of kimchi, the odiferous fermented
vegetables that make up so much of the Korean table: briny bits of
turnip, chile-sluiced cabbages, bittersweet dai...

Mary Had a Little Lamb


16 years ago

Agung has all the stuff that would be standard if Indonesian food
were as common as Thai: clumpy fried rice with scallions and ham;
delicious bakmi noodles, a sort of spicy Indonesian chow mein, fried
with dark soy, shrimp and plenty of cabbage; t...

Balls to the Wall


16 years ago

Cafe Brasil Mostly, youll nd grilled animals at Cafe Brasil: pork


chops, lamb chops, steak, shrimp and sh, all profoundly salty and
resonant with garlic, charred at the edges, fragrant with citrus and a
little overcooked. With all this ...

Brain Food
16 years ago

Little Malaysia Little Malaysia seems to concentrate on the Nonya


cooking of Pinang, an island off Malaysias west coast: hot and spicy,
liberal with such root spices as ginger and turmeric, tending more
toward clean sweet-and-sour avors t...

Big Ass Mound o Starch


16 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein Bambi Bakery This may be the loudest place
in Hollywood on Saturday mornings, with taped marimba music
bouncing off the walls, sticky toddlers caroming off glass bakery
cases, counterpeople barking orders into microphones, a...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Gills & All

261/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Gills & All


16 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein Boca del Rio This place may lack the
elaborate chilpacholes, the exotic jungly stews, the strange
licoricelike herbs youll nd in Veracruz, but mostly it delivers the
goods: uffy, garlicky rice; pungent fresh salsa...

Eatin em for Breakfast


16 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein BRUDDAHS The Spam-fueled Hawaiian


aesthetic of Pacic Rim cuisine contrasts fairly radically with
Wolfgang Pucks, especially at the old-line Gardena caf Bruddahs.
And the breakfast dish known as...
SIGNUP

LOGIN

The Matter at Hand


17 years ago

AlisaChao Nue Mention the words northern cooking at Alisa, and


suddenly another restaurant -- Chao Nue -- unfolds, complete with
its own menu. The ordering strategy is to come with a lot of people
and essentially ask for everything on that second ...

Welcome to La La Land
17 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein La Abeja Other restaurants may be more


ambitious, but La Abeja, from the green-sauced enchilada plates to
the soft tacos of stewed tongue, tastes like Los Angeles. The chips are
warm and oddly heavy; the oily, brick-red sals...

Just for the El of It


17 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein El Amanecer Salvadoreo Consider the


pupusa (generally served at Salvadoran specialty restaurants, of
which there are hundreds in Central Los Angeles): a dense, griddlebaked corn thing lled with goodies, a UFO-shap...

My Favorite Things, Part 3


17 years ago

Corn chowder The Ivy is a New Yorker's perfect dream of Los


Angeles, splashed with sunlight, decorated with amusing American
kitsch, populated with lunching actresses, agents and New York
magazine editors in town to take the pulse of the city. Cor...

My Favorite Things, Part 2


17 years ago

My Favorite Things
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

17 years ago

262/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
17 years ago

Chili burger Los Angeles, it goes without saying, is the world capital
of stuff with chili on it: oozing chili dogs, stinking chili burgers,
suppurating chili tamales, and chili fries hot enough to melt a plastic
spoon. The odiferous tidal ...

Fried and Convicted


17 years ago

Photo by Anna FishbeinBahooka There are sh in this Polynesian


restaurant's foyer, sh tanks surrounding three sides of each booth,
sh swimming inside the glass-topped bar and, on the menu, sh
puffs, which go better with a Monsoon or a Jet P...
SIGNUP

I Dough

LOGIN

17 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Meat just is: Grilled, braised or boiled; ground, attened or eaten


whole, it remains itself. Seafood may be forced into many guises, but
in the end, too, it is just sh, an animal to be consumed. Vegetables
are vegetables; fruits, fruits. But p...

Monterey Park After Dark


17 years ago

Charming Garden Charming Garden is a clean, bright place, spare of


ornament, with fresh tablecloths and formal service. It is also the
most serious Hunan-style restaurant in Southern California. And
smoked pomfret, bronzed and gleaming, at this sp...

Shafted!
17 years ago

Agung has all the stuff that would be standard if Indonesian food
were as common as Thai: good, clumpy fried rice with scallions and
ham; delicious bakmi noodles, a sort of spicy Indonesian chow mein,
fried with dark soy, shrimp and plenty ...

Korean Comfort Food


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Gook Soo is more than just a noodle Tokyo has its share of noodle
shops; so do, one must concede, Taipei, Singapore and Seoul. But Los
Angeles may have a bigger variety of Asian noodles than any city in
the world, bowls of pho and skeins of soba, ...

The Clove That Dares Not Speak Its Name


17 years ago

Photo by Anne FishbeinCarlito's Gardel The most famous dish here


must be the baked-garlic appetizer, a naked halved bulb on a plate,
ready to pulp onto the house's quite decent bread. There's also
melted provolone cheese, laced with tomatoes and p...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

263/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

You Take Manhattan


17 years ago

Aladdin Falafel Aladdin's falafel is a small miracle, tastier than its


Greenwich Village counterparts, an oblate pingpong ball of ground
chickpeas whose thick, tawny crust gives way -- crunch! -- to a
dense interior, mildly spiced, barely greasy, ...

The Matter at Hand


17 years ago

Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each
of them touted as the best in the Southland, one of them actually has
to be the best. And Im pretty sure that the CasaSIGNUP
Bianca Pizza Pie is it.
LOGIN
Especially the sausage p...

Remembrance of Meals Past


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Pork arm. J.Z.Y., the rst American satellite of a venerable Beijing


teahouse, can seem a little like a Chinese version of the Polo Lounge,
a vermillion teahouse frequented by Hong Kong movie stars and
women wearing chunks of jade the size...

Subs 'n' Such


17 years ago

Ba Le Banh mi are more or less Vietnamese hoagies, meat and


vegetables daubed with mayonnaise, crammed into a lightly toasted
French roll and wrapped in a neatly folded sheet of butcher's tissue.
The king of banh mi is the combination sandwich usu...

The Best of Counter Intelligence


17 years ago

All India Caf This place is at its best when you bring the fewest
preconceptions to the table, when the food least resembles its
regional roots. The restaurant's signature dish is probably the
"frankie," a Bombay street snack that the West...

Have It Their Way


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinFRENCH CHEFS HERE, MOST OF THEM


ANYWAY, ARE resigned to nourishing their best customers on
custom-ordered egg-white omelets, sauceless chicken and swordsh
broiled dry. The Zone Diet has forced the city's Italian chefs to de...

Looks Like Chicken, Tastes Like Chicken . . .


17 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Charming Garden Charming Garden is a clean, bright place, spare of


ornament, with fresh tablecloths and formal service. It is also the
most serious Hunan-style restaurant in Southern California. At

264/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

most serious Hunan-style restaurant in Southern California. At


lunchtime, here comes the waitress, slinging a tr...

Yo Quiero Tacos
17 years ago

Art by Dave Shulman La Luz del Da The last place you'd expect to
nd a real Mexican joint is among the maraca vendors and
befuddled German tourists of Olvera Street, but there it is (and has
been for decades), La Luz del Da, servi...

Return of the Mole People


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Seven years ago, when the rst Tlapazola Grill SIGNUP


opened on the site of

a former Santa Monica New Age coffee


shop inLOGIN
Santa Monica,
Oaxacan food was as exotic in Los Angeles as the cooking of
northern Sumatra; it was a faraway cuisine, one of rumor a...

Man, Eating Animals


17 years ago

The Arsenal Good steak houses are basically of two kinds: the ones
that pass along the $15-plus per pound they pay for prime meat
wholesale, and the ones that use less expensive grades but make up
for it with low prices, friendly service, strong o...

Bun There, Done That


17 years ago

photo by Kathleen ClarkEVEN IN LOS ANGELES . . . WHERE IT IS


possible to eat not only wood-red goat-cheese pizza with duck
sausage and sun-dried fennel, but also reasonably authentic Meridastyle cochinita pibil and properly made Cambodian cat...

I, the Jury
17 years ago

Kim Chuy The basic deal at a Chiu Chow -- Thai-Chinese, that is -noodle shop is, of course, Chiu Chow noodles: slippery rice noodles
the width of your little nger, or rmer, square-cut egg noodles that
resemble bouncy linguine, submerged in b...

Spamming the Globe


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinWE CAN BE PROUD OF MANY THINGS, WE


AMERIcans, from the Declaration of Independence to Elliot Carter's
string quartets, from quantum physics to the interstate highway
system, from Martha Stewart to the . . . Spamburger. Which ...

Stool Sample
17 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

The Apple Pan Here is the homey plaid wallpaper; the worn wooden

265/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

The Apple Pan Here is the homey plaid wallpaper; the worn wooden
walls; the clean, warm funk of frying meat. Here is Coca-Cola poured
into paper cones snug in plastic holders. Here are the long, thick
French fries that are customarily served with ...

Mad Cow
17 years ago

The Arsenal Good steak houses are basically of two kinds: the ones
that pass along the $15-plus per pound they pay for prime meat
wholesale, and the ones that use less expensive grades but make up
for it with low prices, friendly service, strong o...

Marine Land
17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

SIGNUP

LOGIN

Photo by Anne FishbeinENSENADA HAS ALWAYS BEEN A WORLD


CAPITAL of Lost Weekends: popular with sport sherman who
measure out their afternoons in spent cases of Corona, the center of
the universe for acionados of stuffed armadillos and illegal f...

Good, Better, Wurst


17 years ago

Ensenada has always been a world capital of Lost Weekends:


popular with sport sherman who measure out their afternoons in
spent cases of Corona, the center of the universe for acionados of
stuffed armadillos and illegal reworks, a major cros...

Slither
17 years ago

Chus Mandarin Cuisine There is a photo of Arnold Schwarzenegger


in the window of Chus Mandarin Cuisine. Arnold has one arm
around Frank Chus shoulders, one beefy hand upon a pillow of
dough. He has presumably just watched Mr. ...

In Search of Lost Tortas


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinPONCE DE LEON HAD HIS FOUNTAIN OF


YOUTH, Ahab his whale, Columbus his islands of spice. Dr. Leakey
spent half of his life looking for a bone or two. I once met a botanist
who had searched the Andes foothills nearly 50 years f...

Reds
17 years ago

Slippery When Wet


17 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Alameda Swap Meet The big food stall under the awning closest to
the main building here is a full-on Mexican restaurant without the
walls, featuring grilled chicken, carne asada and steam-table dishes:

266/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

walls, featuring grilled chicken, carne asada and steam-table dishes:


chile verde, chicken mole and a really good, ...

Roll 'Em
17 years ago

Burrito King If your idea of an "authentic" burrito involves liquidy


beans or brains or tongue or pig's stomach, allow me to recommend
the currently more popular car-wash stand kitty-corner to Burrito
King. Otherwise, the burritos at Burrito King ...

I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream


17 years ago

Agung Agung, near downtown, has become theSIGNUP


one place to go when
LOGIN
coffee and
you want avocado in your coffee. Iced
the creamy fruit go
pretty well together, especially when blended into the uffy
consistency of a malted. (If Tuscan peasants had stu...

Pig Deal
17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein I'VE PROBABLY BEEN GOING TO LA


ABEJA FOR about a dozen years now, long enough to see the owner's
kids grow up and propel themselves into college, long enough to see
the kids who come by the old-fashioned wooden cigar counter...

It Must Be Jelly . . .
17 years ago

Borobudur Garden Borobudur Garden might be an Indonesian


greasy spoon, but it's a great greasy spoon, focused and satisfying,
with crisp shreds of fried tripe that sing of dark soy and garlic; with
meltingly tender beef rendang, redolent of a doze...

The Egg and I


17 years ago

Du-par's The Studio City Du-par's is a clubhouse for gaffers in the


early morning and high school kids late at night, screenwriters
pounding on PowerBooks, young moms with strollers, gray-haired
couples holding hands -- practically everybody in th...

Pigskin Follies
17 years ago

Antojitos Denise's In Los Angeles, good carnitas are common, great


carnitas rare. Denise's is a small, sweet taco stand whose customer
base consists largely of people waiting for the MTA at the bus stop
right in front. A caricature of Denise is pa...

Road Trip
17 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Art by Dave Shulman Authentic Texas Barbecue The proprietors

267/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Art by Dave Shulman Authentic Texas Barbecue The proprietors


here y in all their barbecued meats from Clark's Outpost in Tioga,
Texas, a well-regarded pit just south of the Oklahoma border.
Barbecued hot links, though -- garlicky, sliced Polish ...

Love Me Tandoor
17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinAS MUCH AS I LIKE THE MORE REFINED


SORT OF Indian cuisine, I nd myself drawn these days to the brute
glory of Pakistani cooking instead. Where some Indian curries can
be as delicate as buttery wings, Pakistani curries pra...

Catfishing in America
17 years ago

SIGNUP

LOGIN

Gagnier's Creole Kitchen Gagnier's chicken creole is a spicy, longcooked stew imbued with the creole trinity of onions, garlic and
sauted bell peppers, and dominated by the high, sweet note of
tomatoes cooked down almost to caramel. The j...

Duck, Duck, Goose...


17 years ago

Photo by Anne Fishbein 888 This terrically elegant restaurant


specializes in Chiu Chow seafood, the cooking of the ethnic Chinese
who migrated from China to Southeast Asia dozens of generations
ago: crunchy "crab balls," i.e. tofu-skin-wrapped d...

In with the Old


17 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Photo by Cynthia Wiggins The rst few times I ate at Chasens, as a


culture brat weaned on punk rock and California cuisine, I felt so
smugly toward the restaurant that, looking back on myself from a
distance of 15 years and perhaps 5,000 se...

One Potato, Two Potato . . .


17 years ago

Benita's Fritas Benita's, a small takeout stand in the true American


tradition of overspecialization, serves Belgian fries and only Belgian
fries -- no mussels, no burgers, no shakes. Benita's fries them twice,
the rst time in coolish oil, which...

Too Damned Far


17 years ago

Golden Triangle The national dish of Burma is a garbanzo-ourthickened sh chowder called moh hin gha, shot through with
noodles, and Golden Triangle does a fantastic catsh version. There
is also lap pad thoke, which has a dollop of chewy dri...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Burn, Baby, Burn

268/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Burn, Baby, Burn


17 years ago

Al-Watan If you have a taste for meaty northern Indian cooking,


Pakistani cooking is probably everything you like and more so,
spicier than Punjabi and meatier, more deeply inected by the
avors of ginger, cardamom and wood smoke. First among P...

Fava Knows Best


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinFALAFEL IS OFTEN TASTIER. BABA


GHANOUSH IS EASIER to get at Trader Joe's. Most Arabic-speaking
people would rather have a kebab or three. But foul, the dried-fava
stew variously transliterated as ful, f'ul or fool, is the bas...
SIGNUP

LOGIN

Curry With the Singe on Top


17 years ago

Curry House Japanese curry tastes more like the sort of "African"
gravies you nd in the Portuguese colony Macao than like anything
you might run across in Britain -- or, for that matter, India. At the
same time, it's characteristically Japanese:...

Flavors of the Near East


17 years ago

Caroussel At Caroussel, eggplant salad is extremely simple, chopped


with onion, tomato and green pepper, doused with lemon, garlic and
olive oil, but delicious, the sort of earthy dish you might expect to be
served in a country restaurant somewher...

Hot Sauce
17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinTHE WESTSIDE, OR AT LEAST THE


CENTINELA corridor, has so many decent Oaxacan restaurants that
the cuisine has become something of a Los Angeles tourist
attraction, a new, clean, ineffably exotic kind of cooking that happens
t...

Culver City Cuisine


17 years ago

Caf Brasil Mostly, you'll nd grilled animals at Caf Brasil: pork


chops, lamb chops, steak, shrimp and sh, all profoundly salty and
resonant with garlic, charred at the edges, fragrant with citrus and a
little overcooked. Even t...

Raw Power
17 years ago

Bu San When you land a sushi-bar seat at Bu San, the chef will ask
whether you trust him to choose the sushi. Your answer should be
yes. You will probably start with three hulking slabs of tuna sashimi,
then cured salmon in sheets as big as an ent...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

269/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

then cured salmon in sheets as big as an ent...

Tioga, We've Got a Problem


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinLOS ANGELES COUNTY IS RICH IN


REGIONAL KOREAN restaurants, regional Mexican restaurants and
regional Japanese restaurants, in various avors of southern
American restaurants and Chinese restaurants of astonishing
specicity...

Sheep Thrills
SIGNUP
17 years ago

LOGIN
the only Chinese
China Islamic China Islamic may be
restaurant I've

ever seen where Pakistani customers sometimes outnumber the East


Asians. As soon as you sit down, you are asked if you want sesame
bread (you do), a thick, crisp disk of atbread...

Ahoy, Amigos!
17 years ago

Alameda Swap Meet The big food stall under the awning closest to
the main building here is a full-on Mexican restaurant without the
walls, featuring grilled chicken, carne asada and pretty good steamtable dishes: chile verde, chicken mole and a r...

The Falafel Truth


17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinCONSIDER THE FALAFEL, THE MIDDLE


EAST'S FAVORITE grease bomb, a drippy, screaming-orange post
card from culinary cultures that would really rather be remembered
for kebabs, seasoned rice and sheep's brains garnished with saut...

Leg Show
17 years ago

El Colmao About the best thing at this Cuban restaurant is arroz con
pollo: a big, fragrant bowl of rice, stained Easter-chick yellow with
achiote, and studded with pimientos and the meat of at least a
quarter-chicken. Chicken is also available sa...

A Steak Through My Heart


17 years ago

The Arsenal Good steak houses are basically of two kinds: the ones
that pass along the $15-plus per pound they pay for prime meat
wholesale and the ones that use less-expensive grades but make up
for it with low prices, friendly service, strong ol...

Regular Joe's
17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinAS MUCH AS I LIKE KHMER


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

270/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Photo by Anne FishbeinAS MUCH AS I LIKE KHMER


RESTAURANTS, AS MUCH time as I have spent stalking the aisles at
Acres of Books or wincing through Iron Maiden shows at the arena,
a visit to Long Beach sometimes seems like a thinly veiled excuse to
s...

You Need No Teef . . .


17 years ago

Cupid's It is a beautiful thing to see a Cupid's dog assembled, to


observe the counterman aligning buns four, ve, six at a time in a
special ridged tray, to witness the quick ick of his wrists as he lays
in the hot dogs, smears each with yello...
SIGNUP

Dumpling Chic

LOGIN

17 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinNO MATTER HOW ASSIDUOUSLY YOU


MAY FOLLOW the Chinese restaurant scene in the San Gabriel
Valley, it is astonishing how easy it is to nd a place that serves not
just an unusual dish or two, but a whole new cuisine, a down-ho...

With a Name Like . . .


17 years ago

Heavy Noodling Heavy Noodling specializes in the sort of strands


100 generations of Chinese chefs have regarded with horror: thick,
clumsy noodles that run somewhere between spaetzle and
pappardelle, self-consciously rustic things that taste mainl...

Tacos Alfresco
18 years ago

Antojitos Denise's Denise's is a small, sweet taco stand whose


customer base consists largely of people waiting at the bus stop right
in front. A caricature of Denise is painted on one wall, and if you
poke your head into the takeout window, occas...

Gruel and Unusual


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinTHE BEST RESTAURANT IN TOWN? WHO


KNOWS? AND reasonable minds may disagree on which restaurant
offers the best value per dollar spent. But Lu's Garden is hands down
the fastest restaurant in Los Angeles County, a Taiwanese por...

Wraparound
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein LOS ANGELES, IT IS WELL KNOWN, IS


THE WORLD capital of the burrito. Like the giant bowls of spaghetti
and meatballs prepared a century ago by immigrants translating
Italian poverty cooking into the bright, vulgar language of...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

271/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Dough Boy
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinWHEN THE SECRET HISTORY OF


CALIFORNIA PIZZA IS nally written, a greasy volume inscribed in
arugula, white trufe oil and ripe goat cheese, the name popping up
at every inconvenient moment, like a hard-boiled egg inadverten...

Chacun Son Goo


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinIF YOU SPENT MUCH TIME DATING IN


LOS ANGELES in the '70s, you probably ended up at least once at La
Fondue Bourguignonne, a small, fondue-intensive
Westwood
SIGNUP
restaurant tucked away at the top of a long ight
of stairs. Post-h...
LOGIN

The Big Chill


18 years ago

Chili John's (chili) This is wonderful chili, dense and comforting, lean
and hearty, with a cumin wallop and a subtle, smoky heat that creeps
up on you like the rst day of a Santa Ana wind, avoring your
breath for half a day even if you don't ...

Automatic Rounds
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinLa Habra, which is somwhere east of


Norwalk and south of Hacienda Heights, is a distant, freewayless
area that can most charitably be called "Whittier-adjacent." But
when the wind is from the east, you can smell Krispy Kreme ...

Hand Jobs
18 years ago

Al-Watan If you have a taste for meaty northern Indian cooking,


Pakistani cooking is probably everything you like and more so,
spicier than Punjabi and meatier, more deeply inected by the
avors of ginger, cardamom and wood smoke. First among P...

Doge Food
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein"The happiest place on Earth," the bartender


burbles when he answers the phone. He sounds as if he means it.
And when you are in a particular frame of mind, or a few Buds into
the wind, the Venice Room may actually be the hap...

Cook Your Own Damn Dinner!


18 years ago

El Chamizal The basic unit of currency at El Chamizal is the


parrillada, a squat iron brazier shimmering from the heat of the
charcoal within, brought to your table piled high with thin grilled
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

272/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

charcoal within, brought to your table piled high with thin grilled
steaks, pork chops marinated in chile, hunks of chori...

Pioneer Boulevard
18 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

Illustration by Peter Hamlin There is nothing quite like Pioneer


Boulevard on a clear Saturday afternoon, a fragrant Indian welter of
sari merchants and jewelry artists, snack shops and bhangrablasting boutiques, Bollywood posters and signs that ...

Swish
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinMost of us think of shabu


shabu as a
SIGNUP
distinctly Japanese food, saturated with a dozen
levels of ritual and a
LOGIN
rigid politesse, avored with spare condiments and the Japanese
habit of nding the greatest possible pleasure in ...

The Cuisine That Came In From the Cold


18 years ago

Carlito's Gardel The most famous dish here must be the baked-garlic
appetizer, a naked, halved bulb on a plate, ready to pulp onto the
house's quite decent bread. There's also melted provolone cheese,
laced with tomatoes and pungent Argentine oreg...

Carne Knowledge
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Gallo's Grill is the kind of sweet Mexican


steak house you've always dreamed of nding in East Los Angeles, a
tiled patio furnished with oversize wooden tables, shaded from the
sky by a canopy, and decorated with citrus tre...

Caribbean Cruise
18 years ago

Cha Cha Chicken Cha Cha Chicken is Caribbean poultry with


attitude: a luscious, crisp-skinned bird gritty with spices and painted
with dense, black sauce, slightly sweet and intricately spiced -- not
precisely a beginner's bird. The pepper heat st...

Double Bubble
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinBehold the Sichuan hot pot, a pint or so of


scarlet liquid frothing in a chang dish, spitting up bloody geysers,
roiling and bubbling around bits of meat and tofu like a sulfurous
brimstone pool. You have tasted hot Asian f...

I Eat Your Skin


18 years ago

Antojitos Denise's In a land dominated by carne asada, Denise's is


http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

273/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Antojitos Denise's In a land dominated by carne asada, Denise's is


where to go for pork, a bagful of one of three or four different kinds
of house-made chicharrones (fried pork rinds), the pickled pigskin
called cueritos, or a pound or two of roas...

Loco Moco and Other Delights


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinIn a year when the biggest story in the local
restaurant scene has been the emergence of health-department
letter grades, certain gastrosurfers of my acquaintance see a "C''
grade as an emblem of authenticity in restaurants, ...

Authentic Caf?

SIGNUP

LOGIN
comes in many
Photo by Anne FishbeinAuthenticity
avors in Los
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Angeles, from the goat stew at places that seem plucked straight out
of the Guadalajara suburbs to French dip sandwiches assembled the
same way since 1903, from the quivering cubes of...

Do the Continental
18 years ago

Bay Cities Bay Cities makes a decent turkey sandwich, a loud, greasy
meatball sandwich, and a very respectable hero with Parma
prosciutto, ripe tomatoes and cheese, but the sandwich of choice
here is a monster called the Godmother, which includes ...

Raw Power
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne FishbeinThere are, of course, many sushi experiences


available in the greater Los Angeles area: sushi served by reggae
singers and sushi served by tap dancers, sushi bars that specialize in
recracker rolls and sushi bars that refus...

Dear Diary
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Photo by Anne Fishbein Heres what I did last week. SUNDAY:


Everybody but me, it appears, adores the crisp-skinned roast
chicken at the Cuban restaurant Versailles, loves the soupy black
beans, the avocado salad, the mounds of bright-yellow ...

American Pie
18 years ago

Apple Pan My family have been Apple Pan regulars at least since
Lew Alcindor played freshman ball. The top and bottom buns of an
Apple Pan burger are both crisped and slightly oily, crunchy at the
edges, working toward a near-complete softness at ...

Seeing Red
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

274/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
18 years ago

Ashoka the Great Ashoka is where to come for tandoori dishes:


skinless chicken legs and sh kebabs and minced-lamb sausages
marinated in yogurt and spices, ash-cooked in an ultrahot clay
oven and served sizzling in a bed of onions on a heated s...

Bright Lights, Pig City


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The vast Cantonese banquet halls process thousands of customers a


day. Gleaming Hong Kong-style cafs are as numerous as the red
beans in a Chinese milk shake. Intimate seafood restaurants steam
tankersful of live prawns each week. Still, t...

Frank Discussion

SIGNUP

LOGIN

18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

`If you grew up eating hot dogs in the swinging San Fernando Valley
'70s, your family probably had allegiances to the Hot Dog Show or
Flooky's or the Wiener Factory, which were as inarguable, as
inevitable, as the question of Orthodox, Conservativ...

Heavy Rotation
18 years ago

Green Field Churrascaria What to do at the Brazilian steak house


Green Field is grab a plate and wander through the long buffet
station, picking up fresh hearts of palm, marinated chickpeas, fresh
asparagus, nubs of garlic-fried chicken. Then come...

All the Little Live Things


18 years ago

Bahooka This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect


to nd near a scruffy tropical seaport, all rusted nautical gear, stolen
street signs and scarred dark wood. Lifeboats hang out back, and a
mysterious board engraved "Joyce Kilm...

North of Old Town


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Old Town Pasadena may be the most gentried district in America, a


sort of mega-mall sprinkled like fairy dust through hundred-yearold ofce blocks, polished to a shine. In Old Town - which for some
reason has been renamed Old Pasadena - you ar...

The Pie's the Limit


18 years ago

Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of
them touted as the best in the Southland, one of them actually has to
be the best. And I'm pretty sure that the Casa Bianca pizza pie is the
one. Especially the sausage pizza: sp...
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

275/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Hot Stuff
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The hottest Thai curry in Los Angeles? It's hard to say. The eriest
Mexican dish? I couldn't tell you, although a dish of grilled shrimp
with sauteed habanero peppers I had at a defunct Whittier
restaurant a few years ago was intense enough to c...

Out and In
18 years ago

Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of
them touted as the best in the Southland, one of them actually has to
be the best. And I'm pretty sure that the Casa Bianca pizza pie is the
one. Especially the sausage pizza, sp...
SIGNUP

LOGIN

Man Bites Prawn


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The rst cold night of fall, I went to the Living Fish Center, a small,
superbly named Koreatown restaurant in whose window a brilliant
neon trout burns in permanent midleap. Inside, a school of scarlet
sh stare dumbly out from their dim tank, ...

In and Out
18 years ago

Little Joe's If you grew up in the Southland, you've probably known


the taste of Little Joe's ravioli - soft meat puffs in red marinara sauce
- since you were small. If you grew up almost anywhere else, you've
tasted something like Little Joe's ra...

Mixmasters
18 years ago

Bahooka In the '70s and '80s, countless Kelbo's and Don the
Beachcombers closed, the Torches was razed for condos, and the
Luau on Rodeo Drive, where three generations of Beverly Hills High
School students purchased their rst illicit drink, was ...

The Year I Ate Pico Boulevard


18 years ago | Longform

For a while in my early 20s, I had only one clearly articulated


ambition: to eat at least once at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard,
starting with the fried yucca dish served at a pupuseria near the
downtown end and working methodically westward ...

Birria Forever! And Ever...and Ever...


18 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Baldomero There may be more than birria and weekend menudo


here, but it would be hard to tell by looking at the plates on the tables
around you, at the signboards above the steam table or at the menu
(which doesn't exist). And where some restauran...

276/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

(which doesn't exist). And where some restauran...

Liquid Diet
18 years ago

Cole's P.E. Buffet When you trip down out of the bright sunlight into
the dim warren of Cole's, you stumble into another era, with real
Tiffany lamps, sawdust on the oors, and a couple of pickle-nosed
guys at the bar who look like they haven't b...

Profiles in Curry
18 years ago

All India CafeThe conceit here is dishes from each of the regions of
India - tandoori meats from the north and masala
dosa from the
SIGNUP
south, salads and Bombay-style uttapam
ltered
LOGINthrough the soft
focus lens of the All India kitchen and washed w...

Hawaiian Aye
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you're looking for the latest combination of diced papaya and


unpronounceable Big Island sh, you might visit the Maui Beach
Cafe. If you want to see what kind of Chinese dishes Japanese chefs
might cook up for Californians in a restaurant own...

Yemenite Delight
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

As an agricultural center, Yemen produced the world's rst coffee. As


a center of music, it produced Ofra Haza, once known as the
Yemenite Madonna. But in Tel Aviv, where much of the huge and
ancient Yemenite-Jewish community has gathered in the ...

Smoke Gets in Your Eyes


18 years ago

Al-Watan If you have a taste for meaty northern Indian cooking,


Pakistani cooking is probably everything you like and more so,
spicier than Punjabi and meatier, more deeply inected by the
avors of ginger, cardamom and wood smoke. First among P...

Lotus Eaters
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Indian cooking is, of course, some of the most varied and delightful
on earth, the repository of a hundred spices, a thousand marvels and
10,000 recipes for lentils. From the sort of curried Country Captain
chicken George Washington enjoyed 200 ye...

Finally, Enough Garlic


18 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Brooklyn Bagel Bakery The bagels are fresh here in the a.m.,
sometimes still hot from the oven, fragrantly sweet, soft without

277/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

sometimes still hot from the oven, fragrantly sweet, soft without
being bready, ready to ripen into the moist, day-old chewiness most
people associate with their morning bagel. You can s...

Dog Day Afternoon


18 years ago

Dodger Stadium Children growing up in Los Angeles found the spicy


funk of grilling dogs as much a part of the Dodger Stadium
experience as the rst green ash of outeld, the buzz of Jerry
Doggett from 10,000 radios, the crunch of peanut shells...

Gruel World

SIGNUP

LOGIN

18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Dim sum can be grand. Northern breakfast breads are delicious. But
congee - porridge - may be as close as there is to a universal Chinese
breakfast dish, rice boiled with large amounts of broth until it
becomes a nutritious, loosely textured gruel...

Trapper's Delight
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you grew up in West Los Angeles, you probably have primal


yearnings for Lawry's roast beef that you don't fully understand. If
like me you hail from the south side, you may long for Poor
Richard's, a '60s wonderland of Shirley Temples and chugg...

Fish Out of Water


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The San Pedro Fish Market and Restaurant may be the most raucous
place in Los Angeles on a Saturday afternoon - a crumbling wharf in
the Ports O' Call complex of San Pedro swarming with children,
besieged by gulls, vibrating with the sound of mari...

Hong Kong Chow


18 years ago

Empress Pavilion-- A recent meal at Empress Pavilion included


shiitake mushrooms braised with snow-pea leaves - a musky
combination that somehow breathed summer - and Chinese water
spinach sauteed with blindingly pungent fermented soy. You will al...

Ping-Pong Balls and Thai Tacos


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Everybody likes mint-leaf chicken. In some parts of town, pad Thai


noodles are more popular than hot dogs. But to people not actually
raised in Bangkok, Thai desserts may be as specialized a taste as
oboe recitals or light bondage, gelatinous mass...

Persian Cats
http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

18 years ago

278/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly
18 years ago

Canary Canary is an Iranian sandwich shop on Westwood's Iranian


strip, a house of kebabs in the most kebab-intensive neighborhood
in California. (As W.C. Fields once said of the garlic-packing town of
Gilroy, you could marinate a steak just by han...

Soft-Shoe Sushi
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Sushi on Tap is a stylish sushi bar in a Studio City mini-mall, a tapdance-themed place with bright posters on the walls, tap
documentaries ickering silently on the video screens that dot the
room, and saccharine versions of jazz standards oa...
SIGNUP

LOGIN

The Best of Counter Intelligence


18 years ago

While the contributions of South America to world culture may


include the magical realist novel, Che's groovy beret and Lambada:
The Forbidden Dance, the continent's role in world cuisine has gone
largely unremarked. Without South America, there w...

A Perfect Day for Banana Pizza


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

The Brazilian restaurant Zabumba is as soccer-mad as any three


British pubs, with a welter of video screens tuned to the games,
World Cup schedules handed out with the check, and at least one
waitress who wears a uniform consisting of short-shorts...

Only the Lonely


18 years ago

The concept of the single-item restaurant is well known in Los


Angeles: Lawry's for prime rib, Tommy's for hamburgers, Philippe's
for French dip. If you want crab, you might head to the Crab Cooker;
if tofu, to Tofu Cabin. There is precedent for t...

Sticking It Where The Sun Shines


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

New York has pushcart dogs and the garlic knobelwurst at Katz's
deli. Chicago has Vienna franks. Rochester has its white-hots,
Cincinnati its chili-sluiced coneys. Sheboygan is famous for grilled
brats. Santa Monica . . . Santa Monica is the birth...

Out of Africa
18 years ago

The rst West African cooks to land in the Caribbean more than 400
years ago did not precisely apply for their jobs. But since then
African avors have been as dominant in American cooking as
African-derived rhythms in jazz. From the Carolina ri...

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

279/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

A Round of Sushi
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Behold Sushi Bar Golf, at the historic intersection of Third and


Vermont, a Japanese restaurant at the heart of a neighborhood that
can't decide whether it is Filipino, Salvadoran or Korean. Although
Sushi Bar Golf is in plain view, it seems a lit...

Old-School Thais
18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Vim must have been one of the rst dozen Thai restaurants in Los
Angeles, a bright, fragrant storefront on a strip of South Vermont
SIGNUP
that anchored one of the city's original Thai neighborhoods.
Composer Carl Stone named one of
MIDI op...
his earliestLOGIN

White Glove Hamburgers


18 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Julienne may be the last restaurant of its type in Los Angeles County,
a patio caf in the heart of San Marinos small downtown that rolls
the experiences of La Coupole, Mayberry R.F.D. and the Bullocks
Wilshire tearoom all into one. ...

Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam. . .


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

There is sushi. And then there is Spam musubi. Spam musubi is a


brick of vinegared sushi rice, the size of a chalkboard eraser but with
20 times the heft, burrito-wrapped in a sheet of dark-green nori
seaweed and stuffed with a pink, glistening sl...

Tacos Belles
19 years ago

When the Southwestern thing was hot a few years ago, we tasted
foie-gras tacos with honey-lime sauce and radicchio tacos stuffed
with crab; blue tacos and red tacos; Jamaican tacos and Pilgrim
tacos; tacos lled with parts of the pig wed r...

Griddle Me This
19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Japan, of course, is home to the most rened food culture in the


world, to sh fried so delicately that it appears less greasy than it did
before it was immersed in oil, to sake that costs more per ounce than
pure gold, to kaiseki meals so exqui...

Grill Crazy
19 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Quest for re? Grate expectations? Sear bliss? Old King Coal?
Stripes? When protein meets the bonre, cuisine starts to happen cuisine, or an auto-da-fe. Still, we wish they all could be California . . .

280/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

cuisine, or an auto-da-fe. Still, we wish they all could be California . . .


you know. By Brazil No. 2 While By Braz...

Loaves and Fishes


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

For most of the last decade, Gagnier's of New Orleans was a


gleaming white-tablecloth creole restaurant in the Baldwin
Hills/Crenshaw Plaza shopping center on Crenshaw, casual enough
to stop into after a morning of shopping at Macy's, though still...

Amphibious Assault
19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

If you have taken your American Express card SIGNUP


out for a walk lately,
LOGIN
you have probably noticed that Los
become a city of
Angeles has
supper clubs, dark, atmospheric - and smokeless - rooms featuring
identical blends of '80s grill food and '50s loun...

The Best of Counter Intelligence


19 years ago

Bahooka This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect


to nd near a scruffy tropical seaport, all rusted nautical gear, stolen
street signs and scarred dark wood. Lifeboats hang out back, and a
mysterious board engraved "Joyce Kilm...

She Conchs to Stupor


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

Coconut-enriched seafood chowders, from new-wave Florida soups


to the ery mocquecas of northern Brazil, are a staple of the warmwater Americas. But Honduran sopa de caracol is perhaps the
greatest seafood soup of all. The national dish of Hondu...

Vietnamese rice in San Gabriel


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

A French chef is not considered accomplished until he has mastered


the classical repertoire from bouillon to ballotines; Italian chefs
pride themselves on their ability to prepare 500 pasta sauces on
demand. Some Angeleno chefs work from menus tha...

Big Meat
19 years ago

Al-WatanLike any serious Pakistani restaurant, Al-Watan ostensibly


specializes in the complicated offal dishes that make up the heart of
Muslim Pakistani soul food: masala, here a ragout of chopped goat's
brains cooked in a bright-red spice paste;...

Tofu before noon


19 years ago

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

Raisin Bran has its place in the world; blueberry pancakes are ne.

281/282

7/6/2016

JonathanGold|LosAngelesNewsandEvents|LAWeekly

Raisin Bran has its place in the world; blueberry pancakes are ne.
We have personally fried enough eggs over easy to swamp Dodger
Stadium in slightly runny yolk. But on the other side of the world and in other parts of town - breakfast is more...

Creme Brulee
19 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

If you had hung out at the pastry station of any swank restaurant in
the mid-'80s, you would have seen a hundred little ramekins of
custard and one young woman, armed with a blowtorch and goggles,
blasting the tops of each of them as if they were ...

Dizie With Anticipation


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

SIGNUP

LOGIN

So how do you eat this?" Margaret said, pointing at her very rst
serving of the Iranian stew dizie, a complicated concoction involving
little bowls of soup, of mashed stew, of powerfully sour pickled
vegetables, of fresh herbs. "Yo...

Wrap Party
19 years ago

All India Caf This place is at its best when you bring the fewest
preconceptions to the table, when the food least resembles its
regional roots. The restaurants signature dish is probably the
"frankie," a Bombay street snack that th...

A Pretty Good Chinese Restaurant


19 years ago | Restaurant Reviews

We all have spent a certain amount of time in the last decade in


pursuit of the great Chinese restaurant, the mythical Taiwanese caf
or the swank Cantonese seafood Valhalla we instinctively know must
exist among the several thousand Chines...

2016LAWeekly,LP.Allrightsreserved.

http://www.laweekly.com/authors/jonathangold2126528

282/282