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Jewish

4 August 2016

Drive out and dine

Kosher know-how

DINING
SUMMER
& a soupon of fun
Restaurants not kosher unless stated

Lions & tigers & bears

Picnic like a sabra

Edited by
Brigit Grant

SD2

The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

SUMMER DINING

KOSHER KNOW-HOW
Dont just dismiss a delicious dish if it doesnt fit your kosher diet. Jenni Frazer has found a way around the rules

ow often have you leafed enviously


through the latest must-have cookbook
and decided not to buy it, because the
non-kosher recipes and ingredients
outnumber those you can make with a clear,
kosher conscience?
Its a common experience for kosher cooks, and
in recent years, the solution has been a flowering of
kosher cookbooks. Another answer mainly in
America, although there are signs of it happening
here in a smaller way is for companies to develop
kosher versions of avowedly non-kosher products.
Most famous of all of these are the bacon substitutes, usually turkey or beef, which have been highly
smoked, to try to give the distinctive umami flavour
that bacon-eaters love.
One company, Jacks Gourmet, in New York, makes

The author of The Seasonal


Jewish Kitchen, she says:
My philosophy is to not think
in terms of substitutes, but to
seek dishes and components
that are naturally appropriate
to the laws of kashrut. Substitute too often creates a sense
of settling for second-best.
Desserts, of course, often
pose the biggest hurdles.
Instead of using margarine or
non-dairy toppings to make a
butter-based recipe compatible with a meat meal, try
instead to make cakes that call
for flavourful, healthy oils, and
whose chemistry has alAmelia Saltsmans olive oil and polenta blood orange upside-down cake
ready been worked out to
produce the best results.
desserts in place of cream. Emma says: If you
Olive oil cakes, for instance, are traditional in
pop a can of coconut milk in the fridge for
olive and wine-growing regions. The oil is a
24 hours, then remove only the hard solids
key flavour component, not simply a fat
from the top and whip with sugar, you have
(I have a recipe for an olive oil and
a great cream alternative. I make a nice
polenta blood orange upside-down
banofee sundae with it as a parev
cake in my book).
dessert.
Jacks Gourmet Facon bacon made from beef
Similarly, walnut oil is an amazing
Sometimes the substitution is
fat that produces a delicate nut flavour
to try to replicate the depth
facon, a kosher cured-beef alternative to bacon that is
in cakes (as in my semolina walnut oil
of flavour in a dish: mushnow one of its best-selling products. Jack Silberstein,
cake with coffee hawaij). This is a very
rooms are often suggested
the companys chief executive, says: Its the same
different approach from courgette or
in exchange for bacon in
process as you would do with pork, but we do
honey cakes that use bland vegetable
a recipe. But Emma sugit with beef. We dry cure it over a period of time so
oil as a substitute for butter. I recomgests swapping
were actually pulling moisture out and concentrating
mend avocado oil when one is looking
aubergine for red
the flavour, so that when you do cook it you get that
for buttery flavour and mouthfeel.
meat, useful for
really crispy effect. It is a little salty, just like bacon.
Coconut oil is also popular, but be sure
both kosher and
Another answer may lie with scientists at Oregon
it is compatible with the flavours of
vegetarian cooks.
State University, who have patented a red algae seayour recipe. Coconut cream whips
weed, called dulse, which apparently tastes just like
and holds peaks, so it can be used in
bacon. Israeli chefs are
compatible desserts.
interested in this, because
On the savoury
the deep-fried dulse repliside, I again turn to
SHARON LURIE,
cates bacon flavour and,
traditional compofamous for her
unlike facon, remains
nents that naturally
book Cooking With
vegetarian.
comply. To mimic the The Kosher
These products are not,
qualities bacon has
Butchers Wife, is
so far, available in the UK,
(meaty, fat-rich, salty,
based in South
and sometimes, the urge
smoky), use
Africa and says that
to make something a bit
gribenes, smoked
substitution plays
different leads to ingenious
onions, smoked salt,
a big part in SA
answers.
smoked and dried
food. For mock
We spoke to four of the
tomatoes, smoked
crayfish, Sharon
best-known kosher cookery
fish, smoked duck
says: I've had great
writers who were in London
breast, goose prosuccess with Scotthis summer to take part in
sciutto, beef or lamb
tish or Norwegian salmon and a little haddock
the annual Gefiltefest food
sausage. Also,
added (your smoked cod). Now a tip from my
A red algae seaweed known as dulse tastes like bacon caramelised onions
festival. Each had tricks up
mother (whats a kosher recipe without a tip from
her sleeve to change the
are a classic Middle
a mother?)... Microwaving or steaming the fish
profane into the edible, and were full of ideas for the
Eastern and Persian element to bring parev
whole or, rather deboned, and placed side by side,
adventurous kosher cook.
umami quality to dairy dishes.
then allowing it to firm up in the fridge, helps to
keep the fish looking like flakes of fish and not
a mush.
As befits a kosher butchers wife
she really is Sharon says most of her
First up was AMELIA
EMMA SPITZER
family are lactose intolerant and also
SALTSMAN, the Calwas a finalist in
eat only gluten-free food. I do a huge
ifornia-based daughMasterChef 2015
amount of substituting, she says.
ter of a Romanian
and now runs a
Shes a fan of Richs non-dairy
mother and Iraqi
company offering
creamer and Alpro soy cream, but
father, who met in
private catering.
often substitutes coconut milk or
the Israeli army and
Like Amelia, she
cream for regular milk in soups, cakes
emigrated to Los
is also a fan of
and desserts. Its also great for creamed
Angeles, where
coconut milk,
broccoli or cauliflower.
Amelia grew up.
which she uses in
I substitute cornflour in a lot of dishes when

I need them to be gluten-free. I always use tapioca and potato flour as a batter
for my fried fish, never regular
flour so puffy and crispy.
I use almond flour in my biscuits instead of regular flour,
which keeps them gluten-free.
I always substitute cornflakes for
breadcrumbs and in fruit salads, I use
Sprite instead of orange juice, as it
keeps it fresher and crispier longer.

,
JUDI ROSE is a
cookery writer whose
name is one of the
most famous in the
world of kosher
cuisine. She is the
daughter of the late
Evelyn Rose, the
doyenne of Jewish
cookbook writers, but
has had a long career
in her own right in
food writing and teaching, mainly in New York.
Judis now back living and working in the UK
and says that food substitution for the
kosher cook is dependent on three
things: flavour, texture and
appearance.
As far as bacon goes,
Judis substitutes vary
according to the part bacon
plays in the dish. If you want,
for example, to reproduce
bacon sprinkles, then try frying shiitake mushrooms
crisped in olive oil and butter and with smoked paprika added. Or you could try breadcrumbs with
smoked paprika, or sauted crispy shallots.
Aware of aping the customs of the non-Jew,
Judi says that in some cases you might just want
to make something else. Its not necessary, she
believes, to make diners believe they are actually
eating lobster or pork. In recipes for seafood,
where its important to offer texture, Judi suggests
substituting tuna or a soft white fish that flakes easily, if youd like to serve New England crab cakes.
In place of lobster, she thinks halibut would work,
or for prawns or scallops, you could try halibut,
bream or hake. Recipes with chicken and yogurt
get the coconut milk treatment from Judi, who
adds lime or lemon juice.
For dishes such as coq au vin, Judi recommends
sliced kosher salami to provide a strong flavour
base, but you could do equally well with olives,
anchovies, or slow roasted tomatoes, she says.
And, like Emma Spitzer, Judi is a fan of
aubergine to replace meat, particularly if you are
trying to achieve a structural effect. If you want
to make a mean kosher moussaka, she recommends dark chicken thigh
meat and coconut milk
you can get very close to
the original.
Like all the other cooks,
Judi reckons there is a
kosher answer to almost
every non-kosher problem. So
maybe its time, with these tips in
mind, to go back to the Delias and the
Jamies, and see where a bit of imaginative substitution can take you.

www.jewishnews.co.uk

4 August 2016 The Jewish News

JUDI ROSES CHICKEN AND CHORIZO PAELLA


INGREDIENTS

4 baby aubergines quartered


1 tsp fine sea salt
4 tbsp olive oil
600g/1lb 5oz chicken thigh fillets
freshly ground black pepper
150g/ 5oz button mushrooms
1 pointed sweet red pepper sliced
3 cloves of garlic

150g/5oz sliced chorizo


1 onion finely chopped
2 bay leaves
1 large tomato chopped
pinch saffron threads
2 tsp sweet paprika
1/2 tsp hot paprika, or a tsp cayenne
350g/12oz paella rice
1 chicken stock cube

Serves
6-8

1 litre /1 3/4 strained chicken soup


or chicken stock
2 tbsp broad beans
100ml /3fl oz (large glug) dry sherry
6-8 colouful baby tomatoes halved
2 tbsp pitted Kalamata olives
75g/2 oz (a handful) samphire
lemon thinly sliced

PEACH WITH PAVLOVA AND RASPBERRY SAUCE

SD3

Serves
10

INGREDIENTS

For the pavlova


2 egg whites at room
temperature
1 1/2 cups superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon vinegar or
strained lemon juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch
4 tablespoons boiling water

For the sauce


1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
2 half-pint baskets raspberries
Juice of 1 orange
2 teaspoons kirsch (optional)
4 or 5 large ripe peaches
2 tablespoons granulated
sugar

METHOD

1.Toss the aubergines with a teaspoon of salt (this


reduces the amount of oil they absorb when fried).
2. Preheat a large deep frying pan, ideally 28cm/11 inch in
diameter, for 3 minutes then add the oil. Season the
chicken with salt and black pepper, then add to the hot
oil, and fry over high heat until golden brown on both
sides. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
3. Add the mushrooms and aubergines (cut side down)
to the pan, then saut over high heat until the aubergine is
soft and golden brown, adding more oil if the pan gets dry.
Add the red pepper and one clove of the garlic and stir fry
for a minute. Transfer all the vegetables to the chicken plate.
4. Add the chorizo and onion to the pan, and cook gently until
the onion is soft, then add the bay leaves, chopped tomato,
remaining garlic crushed in a press, saffron and both paprikas.
Add the rice and stir-fry for a couple of minutes. The recipe can
be prepared to this stage up to two hours ahead.
5. Bring the stock to a simmer. Add the broad beans, hot
stock and sherry to the rice and season with half the sea
salt and 10 grinds of black pepper. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 12 to 14 minutes or until the
rice is tender but still has some bite, and most but not all

METHOD

of the liquid has evaporated; add a little more sherry or


water if it gets dry before the rice is ready.
6. Check the seasoning and add salt, pepper or hot paprika
to taste, nestle chicken pieces in the rice and arrange the
cooked vegetables, baby tomatoes and olives on top. Reheat until steaming, then cover and rest for 10 to 15 mins.
7. While the rice is resting, blanch the samphire in boiling
water for a minute, drain and rinse with cold water.
8. Before serving, scatter the samphire over the paella,
garnish with lemon slices, and serve with chilled ros.

1. Preheat oven to 180C (350F). Line a large baking


sheet with aluminium foil, shiny side down. Place all the
meringue ingredients in an impeccably clean bowl of an
electric mixer, and beat on high speed until very stiff and
glossy, 7 to 15 minutes, depending on the power of your
mixer. Working quickly, and using a spatula, spread the
mixture onto the prepared baking sheet into a circle or
oval about 10 inches in diameter, swirling the edges of the
meringue into free-form peaks and creating a valley in
the centre. Or, for individual shells, spoon 10 dollops of
meringue mixture several inches apart on the pan, and
shape as directed.
2. Bake for 10 minutes and reduce the heat to 120/130C
(250F). Bake a large pavlova for 45 minutes longer in an
electric oven, or for 1 hour longer in a gas oven. Bake individual shells 30 or 45 minutes, respectively. Allow to cool
completely in the oven with the oven door ajar, about three
hours or up to overnight, then peel the foil away. The
shell(s) may be stored in an airtight container at room
temperature for up to two weeks.

3. To make the sauce, in a small pot, heat the granulated


sugar and water over medium heat, stirring frequently, until
the sugar dissolves, about one minute. Remove from the
heat and let cool slightly. Put the sugar syrup, berries,
orange juice, and kirsch in a blender and process until
smooth. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. You
should have about 1 1/2 cups.
4. To assemble the dessert, peel the peaches and cut into
1/2-inch-thick slices. Place in a bowl, stir in the granulated
sugar, and let stand, or macerate, until the juices run,
30 to 60 minutes. Place the large shell on a platter, or the
smaller shells on individual plates. Spread the centre with
the whipped cream and pile the peaches on top, allowing
some to tumble onto the edge of the plate. Cut the large
pavlova into wedges to serve. Pour raspberry sauce over,
or around, each serving.

Adapted with permission from The Santa Monica


Farmers Market Cookbook by Amelia Saltsman
(2007, Blenheim Press)

PROMOTION
Sundays from 8pm onwards, 19.95 per person
Whetstone branch open all day Sunday from midday
Whetstone Restaurant
t: 020 8445 1882
Mill Hill Restaurant
t: 020 8906 8504
Info@elvaquero.co.uk
www.elvaquero.co.uk

Whetstone

Mill Hill

[N]

SD4

The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

SUMMER DINING

RULING THE

ROOST
I dream of a world where chickens can
cross the road without having their
motives questioned. Thats the message
pasted across a poster on the wall of the
mens toilet at Pecking Order of a chicken
mid-cross. It amused my husband no end
and all the more so because Pecking
Order, as the name suggests, is a restaurant in Stanmore thats all about chicken.
The humour doesnt stop in the loo,
however. Owners Dhilon and Vish, who
met at university in Kingston-upon-Thames,
have extended the wit and laughter to
their menu and cocktail list and, most obviously, on the faces of the waitresses, who
are some of the loveliest table servers you
will ever meet.
All this contributes to a relaxed, effortless dining experience in a Belgo-like setting with rough walls, an open kitchen and
more line drawings of poultry than you
would expect. Everyone dreams of owning a bar or a restaurant, says Vish, who
actually followed his dream alongside
Dhilon after a lengthy search for the right

Brigit Grant took her


family to a laughter-filled
Stanmore local eatery

place to open a restaurant that served


simple food really well. And that is exactly
what Pecking Order is, from the Quick
Fixes (among them, chicken wings served
buffalo hot, smoked in chilli honey chipotle
or Coca Cola hickory BBQ; fish tacos and
crumbed mushrooms) to the chicken mains
done on the rotisserie or Southern-style.
As a salad fan, I went for the quinoa
superfood version, a generous helping of
red and white quinoa, roasted butternut
squash, pomegranate, raisins and radish
dressed in a raspberry vinaigrette.
Eating healthily isnt a sacrifice when its

this tasty, although I found myself battling


poultry envy when I saw the Southern-style
fried chicken tray my husband and
daughter shared. With pieces and strips,
together with house slaw, corn on the cob
and skinny fries, the temptation to rifle
their tray was overwhelming. Sadly,
painkillers for a trapped nerve also prevented me from sampling the cocktails that
night, but the Gingerbread Manhattan,
labelled as Hansel and Gretels favourite,
has my name on it the next time we visit.
Brunch is one of the best reasons to
return (weekends 10am to 4pm) as Pecking
Order serves dishes such as smashed avocado with sourdough, poached egg, truffle
oil and chilli flakes, and salmon smorrebrod, which has the oak-aged salmon
beside a hard-boiled egg, cracked black
pepper and lemon labneh.
Dhilon or Vish are always in-house to
make sure all is as it should be and when
they open another Pecking Order, as they
plan, one will always be there ruling the
roost and keeping the team smiling.

SUSHI WORTH SHARING HA5S TURKISH DELIGHT


With hungry family in
tow, Debra Barnes was
ready for Izgara

When food this good is


available locally, go spread
the word, says Brigit Grant
My daughter has an annoying habit of taking the
salmon off her nigiri roll. Left to her own devices,
she would work her way through a plate of sushi,
removing tops and bottoms from the various
combinations to suit her taste. This will seem
criminal to sushi lovers, but were just glad she
likes it enough for us to eat Japanese food,
which weve been doing more of since Zushi
Sushi opened down the road.
Executive chef May Thu is the commanderin-chief at this clean, cool and convenient eatin/take-away cafe that offers a vast array of innovative, quality sushi dishes. All ingredients are
sourced by top-grade suppliers and delivered
fresh to the store daily. Israeli co-owner Tomer
Vanunu is usually found at Zushi Sushi after the
gym and admits his desire to eat healthier food
brings him here all the time.
The consumption of sushi dates back to the
second century AD in South-East Asia, when
there was a need to keep food fresh without

refrigeration. This was achieved by wrapping the


food in rice and leaving it to ferment for several
months. The idea spread eventually through
China and then to Japan, where their cured-fishand-rice sushi would be fermented with Japanese rice wine, or sake.
In the 1820s, chefs started using raw fish in
their dishes. This is known as Edo-style sushi and
is the style chef Thu offers at Zushi Sushi.
Starters at the restaurant include wakame
salad, which contains Japanese seaweed served
in a light dressing, and miso aubergine, which is
a grilled aubergine dressed in miso vinegar
sauce. There is also the delicious tuna tataki,
which is tuna sashimi fried in batter with coriander sauce. Because sushi is so moreish, the Zushi
platters are the best value and what you dont
eat will keep for next days lunch if you order a
Zushi Uramaki Selection, which consists of two
of everything, including salmon avocado and
chicken teriyaki.
The salmon avocado burger is also a treat,
with its mix of beetroot, mayo and rice paper,
which is much better for you than any regular
burger. From lollypop nigiri to hot donburi
dishes, Zushi Sushi has a menu Japanese food
fans will never tire of and with a new branch due
to open in Market Place in Hampstead Garden
Suburb in September, local residents will soon
be saluting chef May Thu.
Order at zushisushi.co.uk or call Mill Hill 020 8906
2705 or Market Place 020 3758 9334 from September

ith front windows opening up completely to


a large decked area where you
can enjoy fresh juices or
home-made lemonade, Izgara
is made especially for August
evenings. Needless to say, when I visited, it
was windy and raining so the windows were
shut, but that didnt spoil the experience at this
great new local eatery.
The latest addition to the Izgara group has
moved away from the format of the other
restaurants. At Hatch End, we have taken
Izgara to the next level, said manager Shukur
of a restaurant as far removed from the corner
kebab shop as you can imagine. It has modern
stylish decor, low lighting and a quiet sophisticated ambiance. Our Edgware branch is
hugely popular, so it would be silly to change it,
but this new venue in Hatch End is quite different, Shukur added.
One big difference is that the BBQ is hidden
away in the kitchen, so some may miss the distraction of watching the skewers
of meat being

grilled along with the accompanying


delicious smell. The menu is smaller
than that of the other branches, too,
but it was still difficult to make a choice. We
went for a selection of starters, including a delicious tabbouleh salad and sigara borek, which
are basically cigar-shaped borekas made with
filo rather than puff pastry and filled with
halloumi cheese, spinach and fresh herbs.
The mixed shish was beautifully presented
and both the chicken and lamb were melt-inthe-mouth soft. We only use the prime cuts
of meat, Shukur explained. We hadnt felt the
need to order any rice and I was just thinking
how it had been a pretty healthy and fat-free
dinner when the chocolate souffl desert
arrived. Clearly not a typical Turkish pud, but
one of the most popular and for good reason,
as the melting middle was spot-on, whereas
I always manage to overcook it. A glass of mint
tea to finish and we were sorted.
The restaurant is deceptively large and has
five round tables, one of which comfortably
seats up to 10 people, so is ideal for a gathering. The friendly and attentive staff will happily
package up any leftovers for you to take home,
or there is always the option of take-away.
Izgara is at 302 Uxbridge Road, Hatch End HA5 4HR.
Reservations: 020 8421 1525. izgara.uk

www.jewishnews.co.uk

4 August 2016 The Jewish News

SD5

MEAT N GREET

If you thought you had to go to Argentina for table carving, think again says Brigit Grant

here arent many restaurants in north-west


London where food is a spectacle. Sure,
there are multiple mezze in Greek eateries
and an endless supply of Chinese locals with
dishes served on a lazy susan, but for real main
course entertainment El Vaquero is the place.
With two large, airy locations in Mill Hill and
Whetstone, El Vaquero (which means cowboy in
Spanish) is as close as you can get to dining in
Rio or Buenos Aires via the Northern Line.
Just ask Tomer Vanunu, the Israeli co-owner,
who darts between the two restaurants endlessly
and when not in either of them can be found
breakfasting at Michaels Brasserie in Woodside
Park, having lunch at Tomelis in the Upper Mall
at Brent Cross, taking tea at Sunny Hill Park caf
in Hendon or perhaps indulging in a sushi supper
at Zushi in Mill Hill.
Tomer is part-owner of all of them and of
course
enthuses
about them
individually,
but it is at
El Vaquero
that we met
and there
is much to

say, as youll appreciate if you have eaten at


either one.
When El Vaquero opened in 2008, the South
American dining experience was based unusually
in Frith Manor Equestrian Centre. Passing stallions in the paddock on your way to dinner is a
novelty that continued at the table where, after
loading our plates with fresh salad, we were
introduced to the passadors.
Passadors are meat carvers and, armed with
large skewers filled with roasted meats and
chicken, they serve diners individually. I remember being impressed by the originality of the
concept, which continues now at the two official
restaurants, only now the passadors fly between

the tables that are filled with large parties of


people from 6pm to 11pm on weekdays and until
11.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays.
In the kitchen at Mill Hill, it is female chef
Manana from Georgia, Russia, who is responsible
for the scintillating marinades on the lamb, beef
and chicken, but those who eat only fish are well
catered for, along with vegetarians, who are too
frequently an afterthought elsewhere.
The salad buffet counters would keep most
diners satisfied, but then theres the rice, the
beans, the potatoes. Theres no denying that the
meat is the big attraction, as it is grilled on the
spit to keep it succulent and the passadors will
carve according to your preferences from rare to
well done. If you find these guys many of whom
are rather handsome are being overly attentive
and popping up with honey and mustard chicken
just seconds after serving Argentinian beef, then
its because
the traffic light
on your table
is on green.
Even the keenest carnivores
need a small
breather at a
23.95 all-you-

can-eat barbecue,
and flicking your
light to red will
provide it.
The success of
a restaurant relies
on you listening
to your customers, says Tomer, who reveals that asking diners about their eating habits and taste
preferences shaped the El Vaquero menu.
You adapt from the beginning and we hope
to open another El Vaquero, adds Tomer, who
credits the loyal custom of the Jewish community
for building the north-west success. We have a
lot of regulars who love the food and the speed
at which it arrives. Jewish people dont like to
wait too long.
Although El Vaquero is a long way from being
a Brazilian version of Blooms, where the waiting
staff often delivered and removed plates at
speed, it is a place to bump into friends and
indulge in great food.
It is also the only place I know that serves
grilled pineapple as a dessert, and a smile at the
right passador will keep that fruit coming.
Visit : elvaquero.co.uk

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SD6

The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

SUMMER DINING

THE OUT OF
TOWNERS
So far this isnt shaping up to be a summer
we hoped for, but the longer, brighter days
are good for getting out of London for
lunch, tea and dinner, says Louisa Walters
BREAKFAST/LUNCH

Petersham Nurseries, Richmond

This is a truly special place. Its like sitting in a wild


The Grocer, Amersham
country garden in Provence, dotted with rickety
There are two outposts of The Grocer in the
wooden tables and mismatched chairs, with plants
pretty High Street in Old Amersham. At one end
and flowers clambering up trellises and winding
is the original The Grocer at 91 a cute, doggyaround pillars, as well as in pots large and small.
friendly coffee shop serving delicious sandwiches, Youre inside, but you absolutely wouldnt know
toasties and a few salads,
it, especially as the floor is sandy,
plus a great selection of
uneven concrete. The menu has a
coffees and a mouthstrong leaning towards Italian dishes,
watering choice of homeflavoured with herbs cultivated on
made cakes. The Grocer
site. The de rigeur sourdough
at 15 is a larger premises
dipped in the best tasting olive oil
at the other end of the
I have ever come across rich, deep
High Street. This is more
and spicy (so good, in fact, that
of a restaurant, with one
I bought a bottle despite the 17
huge wooden table and
price tag) is just the beginning of
benches, a few smaller
a wonderful food journey. Zucchini
cosy tables and bar stools
fritti, generously coated in batter and
at the window. There is a
fried to a perfect crisp. Ravioli filled
Worth driving for a Grocer sandwich with beetroot and goats cheese.
bigger menu with amazing breakfast choices, fabCarta de Musica a take on
ulous Ottolenghi-style salads, sandwiches, bagels
bruschetta featuring a crispbread topped with
and more of those wonderful cakes. Specialities
tomatoes and flavoured with marjoram. Seabass,
include toasted avocado bread with Greek
pan-fried and served on a bed of soft, sweet Sicilyoghurt and blueberries, and roasted aubergine
ian red peppers, topped with green beans and
with buttermilk, zaatar and pomegranate. Theres flavoured with garden hyssop and salmoriglio
a good selection for veggies and those on
(Italys answer to zaatar). A delicious summery
gluten-free diets. Old Amersham is full of lovely
dish, good sized portion really filling. A creamy,
shops to visit while walking off your indulgences.
tangy lemon posset, light-as-a-feather sugary

doghnuts filled with vanilla cream, olive oil ice


cream with honeycomb and chocolate sauce.
A wander around the shop and nursery afterwards
wont work off those calories, but does make this
into a lovely outing.

SUNDAY LUNCH
The Bricklayers Arms, Flaunden

DINNER
The Hand and Flowers, Marlow
A pretty, scenic drive along winding country lanes
for a lazy Sunday lunch at The Bricklayers Arms in
Flaunden is what summer weekends are all about.
This is a delightful pub serving really, really good
food. The chilly days weve had this summer
means that a roast with all the trimmings if you
arent kosher is very welcome, but there are good
fish options, too. I dont usually go for roast potatoes but these are fantastic - crisp on the outside
and fluffy on the inside - and the Yorkshire pudding
is superb too. If youre a sticky toffee pudding fan
this version is up there with the best Ive ever tried.

TEA
The Bingham, Richmond

Woody Allen used Petersham Nurseries as a location in the film You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger

hotel so if you decided


to make a weekend of
it you could venture
into town for a glass (or
two!) of wine at a really
cool, airy bar called
1 Duke Street, followed by supper at
Chez Lindsay, a charming and cosy French
Eggs at The Bingham
bistro with as-goodas-it-gets onion soup,
plus lots of other traditional French dishes. If you
do stay over, youll have the chance to sample the
fantastic eggs Florentine at breakfast super sumptuous yet light at the same time.

The Bingham is a charming little hotel on the river.


I was blessed with glorious weather when I went,
but even under grey skies the setting is beautiful.
Afternoon tea (served on the terrace on sunny days)
is a hark back to the traditional dainty finger sandwiches (cucumber,
cheese and pickle,
smoked salmon
and cream cheese),
scones, Victoria
sponge cake, mini
peach trifle plus
yummy blueberry
macaroons. Charming, attentive service
and a delightfully
relaxed ambience,
The Bingham is a

Yes, its frightfully expensive, yes you have to book


a year in advance, but yes, yes, yes its worth it.
And no, its not too far to go for dinner takes less
time than driving to the West End in traffic. Its a
gorgeous pub with lots of beams and cosy nooks,
low ceilings, little windows and wooden tables.
The menu is varied and easy to choose from.
A perfectly
chilled glass of
Prosecco and
we were off...
Soft, satisfyingly
chewy white
sourdough and
nutty brown
soda bread,
both with the
crustiest of
crusts. A complimentary portion of deep
fried jumbo
whitebait with Marie Rose dip. A velvety sweetcorn
soup (how do they get it so smooth?) with spring
onion, lime and toasted sweetcorn.
A cottage pie comprising rich, tender, flavoursome
braised beef encased in fine shortcrust pastry with
caramelised onion on top. We ordered a portion
of the renowned chips light and fluffy inside and
crisp and crunchy on the outside. Perfect? You bet!
Dessert was a white peach souffl with rosemary
custard and tea sorbet how could I not? Hubby's
blackberry fool with oat crumble and buttermilk
ice cream was a light, summery take on a traditional autumn dessert. We had a pot of tea in the
bar with a portion of caramelised white chocolate
pebbles these have to be tasted to be believed.

www.jewishnews.co.uk

4 August 2016 The Jewish News

LIKE A
After watching Israelis picnic on the beach,
unbothered by sand, sun or seawater, Mia Serra
shares the secrets that only sabras know

aving lived in Tel Aviv for three years, its


hard to imagine that I used to come here on
holiday from London and spend 90 percent
of my time at the hotel pool. On the occasions
I did venture to the beach, it was always too hot
and too sandy to be pleasant,
especially with young children.
Being in Tel Aviv all year round
makes you realise the beach has a
seasonal rhythm. In summer and on
Jewish holidays, it is packed with
tourists. In autumn and winter, it is
all but deserted, but the winter
sunshine provides the perfect playground, even if the water is too
cold to swim. My favourite beach
month is November, with temperatures in the low twenties and miles
of undulating sand to contemplate.
If you ask Israelis what time their children go to
bed, they will ask you to clarify whether you mean
in the winter or summer. In the summer, children
stay up late to enjoy the long (slightly) cooler
evenings. The best time of day on the beach in
summer for families is late afternoon and evening,
with kids playing in the less intense heat and
parents enjoying the sunset.
Yet you do see families enjoying a picnic
together on the weekend, often with three generations sitting together. How, you may ask,
do they manage to enjoy this experience at the
hottest time of the day and year? Well, wonder
no longer, heres my guide to picnicking like
a sabra.

1. Stuff: when you look over at an Israeli family


having a picnic, you will marvel at how much stuff
they have managed to transport to the beach.
For them, its a home from home and packing for
it is a serious operation.
Essential items are:
a. Chairs: Israeli families sit on chairs to have a picnic. Whether folding chairs, plastic beach chairs
(low chairs are favoured).
They do not lay down
towels or picnic blankets.
Those are for amateurs.
b. Shade: Chairs are
arranged in a circle
under an umbrella,
under a wooden beach
gazebo or some type
of canopy they have
rigged up. There is a
great new canvas shade you can buy, which is
weighed down by sand bags that totally trumps
the traditional umbrella. Whatever you choose,
shade is essential.
c. Tables: Yes, some people even bring tables, or
some use the little beach tables. I told you they
take this seriously.
d. Great location: If youve got children with you,
you are going to need to be right by the sea so
they can paddle and dig nearby. If you dont see
a space, dont be afraid of squeezing in front of
someone. Or stalking a family who are leaving

SABRA

shortly. In Israel, personal space takes a back seat


to getting what you need.
e. Picnic basket: Professional canvas picnic baskets with aluminium frames are available in homeware stores and are the only thing to transport
your lunch in and keep it cool.
2. Whats inside the basket ?
a. Watermelon In high summer,
this is the number one picnic
food for the beach. Just cut it
up and serve, but dont forget
your plastic forks. Israelis
know that
s a n d y
hands and
watermelon
dont mix.
b. Bamba The national
peanut snack renowned for quieting crying babies
and bribing children with.
c. Bissli Jaw-breaking, high calorie and strangely
moreish, this is the snack for older children to fight
over.
d.Israeli salad What meal would be
complete without katsutz a refreshing chopped salad of tomato and
cucumber?
e. Humous and pita This pair of
Israeli staples are never far away
when a meal is being served.
Choose from family vats or smaller
restaurant style.
f. Soft drinks The big bottles of cola
and other synthetic drinks, such as iced tea, are
somehow lugged over to the beach (and, again,
are useful for bribing children).
g. Shluki If youre super organised, you will have
a box of frozen ice pops to hand out to the children
yours and other peoples. In Israel, no ones afraid
to ask for what they want. Including kids. Be warned.
h. Optional sound system with 80s classics or
pumping Mizrahi tunes, guitar, matkot (bat and
ball game), nargila and bucket and spades. When
I first came to Israel, I labelled our beach toys.
Now I know these items are for sharing.
Beware, though,
of the parent
announcing that
his child really
wants to help dig
that hole with you
and your kids and
then sneaking off
for a smoke/ nap.
i. Secret sabra tip Apparently some Israelis use
talcum power to get rid of sand on their hands
instead of going back and forth to the sea to wash
it off. One to try. Yalla.

[N]

SD7

SD8

The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

SUMMER DINING

LADIES (& GENTS)

WHO BRUNCH

Either you got up too late for breakfast, or you simply cant wait
until lunch either way, brunch is the new buzzword and there
is a plethora of places to go get the stuff. Louisa Walters samples
brunch at seven tasty eateries
GREENBERRY
This Primrose Hill
caf is seriously
popular for weekend brunches, plus
its doggy friendly
so you can take the
entire family! Rustic
and cosy, its a lot bigger than it seems from the
outside, but booking is advisable. The breakfast
menu is served from 9am to 3pm and features a
range of dishes with fruit and grains (porridge, granola, pancakes), interesting egg dishes waffle with
avocado and poached egg, for example and
sourdough toast with lots of interesting toppings.
RECOMMENDED DISH: Portobello mushrooms,
poached egg, hollandaise and truffle.
www.greenberrycafe.co.uk

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE
A calm, civilised oasis just a stones throw from
the hustle and bustle of Baker Street, this is a
place that very much has the feel, at breakfast,
of the morning after the night before. As you sit
in this bright space with creamy paint colours,
mirrored panels and marble-topped tables in
every colour of the rainbow, you can imagine it
transformed at night with a well-dressed crowd,
the chink of glassware and the flicker of candlelight. Brunch choices include eggs royale on
toasted brioche, fluffy pancakes with the usual
toppings and smoked mackerel. Complimentary
toast is a nice touch. There is a gorgeous courtyard garden for warmer days.
RECOMMENDED DISH: Eggs Florentine
cheese muffin, heirloom tomatoes and spinach.
www.chilternfirehouse.com











BEANY GREEN
Australian chain Beany Green is dotted in various
locations around London and showcases a rather
different brunch to the usual London offerings
but this is to be expected of a brunch from the
other side of the world. The interior of the Little
Venice branch is bright, with rustic wooden tables
and colourful metal chairs, which provide the perfect backdrop for the food each dish looks like a
work of art. Avocado on charcoal sourdough
(black sourdough who knew?!) and broccoli and
corn fritters are just two of the standout dishes on
the exciting, innovative menu. Bottomless brunch
available at weekends.
RECOMMENDED DISH: Coconut bread French
toast (gluten-free) served with thick Greek yogurt,
berries, griddled mango, shaved coconut and
maple syrup. www.daisygreenfood.com

EDITHS HOUSE
Devised and run by two actors, Ediths House,
near Crouch End, is a unique and quirky concept
inspired by the owners grandmas. It represents
a home, having separate rooms including a bedroom and bathroom where customers can sit to
eat and drink. It is totally as you imagine
grandmas place with board games and knickknacks, a comfy armchair and even a frilly toilet
seat! The menu is inspired by dishes from a
bygone era, with a modern twist, and the owners
passion for baking is evident.
RECOMMENDED
DISH: Breakfast
bundle smoked
salmon, avocado
and egg with chilli
oil on sourdough.
020 8347 8861
(no website)
TEATRO
The new Teatro restaurant at The Radlett Centre,
managed by brother-and-sister team Robert and
Sue, has had consistently good reports and has
very quickly become a much-loved destination in
the locality. The delicious healthy smoothies and
egg dishes (scrambled eggs with smoked salmon
are particularly good) nicely balance out the fabulous home-made cakes. Simple home cooking
using quality ingredients in a bright, modern setting with easy parking make this place a winner.
RECOMMENDED DISH: Welsh Rarebit
www.teatro-radlett.co.uk
















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CAF LOREN
Traditionally a Middle-Eastern dish, shakshuka has
become a brunch staple here and Lee and Or left
their homes in Israel to show Londoners how its
done. They opened Caf Loren in the Stables
Market in Camden last year. Using only fresh
tomatoes plus sweet peppers, onions, garlic
and eggs, this place really is a cut above when
it comes to this tasty, spicy breakfast dish. Caf
Loren offers several varieties of shakshuka and
even a shakshuka sandwich in home-made beetroot bread. There is fresh coffee, juices, smoothies and home-made bread and pastries, too.
The rustic interior is lined with attractive exposed
brick walls, embellished with old hanging crates
filled with fruit. Smokers and dog walkers can
enjoy sitting in the covered outside space.
RECOMMENDED DISH: Balkan Shakshuka
a medium spiced shakshuka with creamy feta
www.cafeloren.com

BOYDENS
With locations in New Barnet and Friern Barnet,
Boydens prides itself on wholesome comfort food
served in a rustic setting on tin plates or wooden
boards. Perfect for indulgent brunches, recent
specials have included poached peaches on
brioche with rose crme fraiche and pistachios,
but the less adventurous will be happy with the
regular menu, which includes pancakes, French
toast and egg dishes.
RECOMMENDED DISH:
Big veggie breakfast,
featuring toasted muffin
with guacamole, hummus,
mushrooms, roast
tomatoes, avocado and
poached eggs (add crumbled feta as an option).
www.boydenskitchen.com

www.jewishnews.co.uk

4 August 2016 The Jewish News

FOCUS ON THE CAB


Debra Barnes hails a ride with some snappy cabbies
hile some Londoners on the go may
have found a four-letter word they
like more than Taxi (and if you
dont know it, Im not telling you); for many
of us, a cabbie with real knowledge and an
opinion on everything is still the way to go.
For starters, theres the spacious back seat
and big windows, but the real joy is not
having to stop a Sat Nav-reliant driver from
circling Hyde Park three times. And for those
who have grown up with a black cab on the
drive, theres that reassuring feeling that
once inside a taxi youre among family
particularly on a rainy night. There have
been plenty of rainy nights not that long
ago but, with more summer nights hopefully
still ahead, you need inspiration.
Enter the black taxi or two black taxis, driven
by Adam Soller and Perry Somers, who have set
up the London Photo Taxi Tour company offering themed rides around the London youve yet
to discover. Rather than using a taxi to get from
A to B, LPTT customers are encouraged to think
of the ride as part of their evenings enjoyment.
Our customers hire the taxi for the night and decide where to go and what to see, said Adam.
We can pick them up from a restaurant after dinner, take them on a fantastic tour of London and
drop them off at a hotel for coffee or take them
home.
While this sounds pretty much like any old
taxi ride, there are, however, two main differences, which Adam explained. Perry and I
are both really interested in history and know
some great quirky and amusing stories and
facts about our town, which most Londoners
would never know. For example, we can show
you the only Nazi memorial in the capital (it
really does have an entertaining story behind
it!), as well as the smallest statue, library and
police station, a miniature St Pauls Cathedral,
the first street in London or the only building
in the world outside of Israel to have been a
church, a synagogue and a mosque.
For those who like a fascinating capital fact
these are your go-to cabbies

particularly if you have friends from abroad


in town who want photographic keepsakes.
But theres more, says Adam. We are both
keen photographers and, as I only got my
badge as a licensed cabbie in 2014, after
spending three years of my life studying the
Knowledge, I promised myself after I passed
that I would go back to it. Ive done several
courses since and I always have my camera
in the cab with me. Perry and I both know our
way around a DSLR camera and where to get
the best and most unusual shots of London,
whether it is the iconic sights or street photography which I particularly enjoy.
The guys are happy to help customers get
the best photos from their tour, whether they
are using a Nikon or an iPhone or, alternatively, they will take the photos and email
them on.
There are a number of suggested tours on
their website, but flexibility really is key. We
can change the route, make a stop and, of
course, they get to see London in comfort and
style, says Perry. Our prices are very competitive, too, particularly if there is a group of
four or five and if your summer dining experience is a celebration, the London Photo Taxi
Tour company can design you the perfect tour
to suit personal interests, be it rock n roll
shrines, literary characters, movie locations,
Jewish London, or maybe something really
unusual, which is going to make us dig deep
into our knowledge of London.
So much for that other four-letter ride.

BE HEALTHY
THIS SUMMER!
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SOME ER SUMME
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#Me

londonphototaxitour.com

Let metoo! be your partner


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SD9

SD10

The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

SUMMER DINING

ZOOTOPIA
Brigit Grant finds more
than a few surprises
down at the zoo

ne of the greatest and most terrifying


moments of my life was in London Zoo. It was
1997 and Id been invited to interview actor
Michael Palin about the film Fierce Creatures, in
which he played an insect specialist. Although
I had no problem rescuing a spider from the bath,
when it came to tarantulas, I was a total princess.
Or so I thought, for within minutes of
meeting Palin the intrepid Python, he had
me holding a huge black hairy arachnid.
I havent held one
since, as tarantulas in
Totteridge tubs are a
rarity, but being at
London Zoo ahead of
opening time was a
riot, although any time
inside one of the
worlds oldest scientific
zoos is splendid and
worth repeating as a
family.
With a collection
of 756 species and
17,480 individuals, seeing them all on a first
visit takes dedication,

so you need to go back and back again to hang


with the giraffes, zebras, okapis, warthogs and
African hunting dogs, to name but a few.
Great things happen at the zoo all the time
and, in July, two critically-endangered cubs
joined their seven-year-old mum, Melati the
Sumatran tigress, for
the first time in public. To see these two
newborns
explore
their domain up close
is the sort of highlight
you might enjoy on a
Zoo Keeper Experience day. A variety
of animal encounters
(and
mucking-out
activities) are included on the day,
along with a complimentary lunch, refreshments and car

parking, a special T-shirt and 20 percent off


admission for friends and family. There are many
individual experiences to be had, and also new
for 2016 is the chance
to stay on-site in
the Gir Lion Lodges,
where guests will bed
down for the night in
beautifully decorated
lodges inspired by
hotels on the lions
native Gir Forest
home in India. As well
as accommodation,
theres a two-course
dinner and full English
breakfast the next day,
along with early morning or sunset tours led

by the hosts. The experience runs six nights a


week right through to December, with designated family-friendly and adult only nights.
From 6 to 10 September, London Zoo will
be running Silent Cinema, kicking off with the
classic adventure flick Jumanji, followed by Ace
Ventura: When Nature Calls, the 80s classic G
orillas in the Mist and Disneys The Lion King.
Ahead of the screenings, the zoos safari
guides take guests on a pre-movie twilight tour
around specially-chosen enclosures. With the
animals in bed, film fans will get to sample an
eclectic range of food stalls and then kick back
in front of a huge screen with headphones on, so
the residents arent disturbed. Tickets for adults
cost 29.99/members 24.99 and for children
22.99/ members child 17.99. I know this is just
the sort of zoo event that my daughter will love.
I may even take her to see that tarantula.

extra
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T: 020 8457 7503

www.jewishnews.co.uk

4 August 2016 The Jewish News

SD11

I KNOW WHAT YOULL DO


Brigit Grant reveals the ways you and
the kids can have fun during August

THIS SUMMER...
placed in giant 6ft
jars. The trail will
run until 31 August,
then the jars will be
auctioned in aid of
Save the Children
and Roald Dahls
Marvellous Children's Charity. JW3 is also marking Dahls birthday
from Monday 15 to Friday 19
August with Develop Language Through Roald
Dahl, specially designed to support children with
their language skills and have fun at the same time.

Hard as it is to believe that four years have


passed since we were the torch bearers, its
now Rios turn to samba and here are ways
you can join in.....
London Bridge City Summer Festival takes place
between Tower Bridge and London Bridge and,
along with all the general live entertainment, food
and drink, from 6 August the Official Team GB FanZone will be active and creating the atmosphere of
the Rio Games while supporting GB athletes in
their quest for Olympic glory. The FanZone will
show live coverage of the Games at selected times
and there will be an opportunity to participate in
some Olympic sports. Visit: lbcsummerfestival.com

You may go there to shop, but until 4 September,


your children can build sandcastles on The Beach
at Brent Cross. With 350 tonnes of sand to play
with, theres also a helter skelter, water sprays and
other new rides, as well as a Tiki bar for the adults.
And in keeping with the Rio vibe, there are Brazilian
Samba dancers to teach you the moves and get
you doing the limbo. Stilt walkers and fire eaters will

They are also getting into the spirit of the games at


JW3 on the Finchley Road with the Mind Sports
Olympiad from Sunday, 21 to Monday, 29 August.
Moving the action off the running track to the
board, this Olympics for the mind has 60 board
game tournaments held alongside free Learn to
Play sessions for newcomers and families. Competitions range from classics like chess, to newer
games, such as Settlers of Catan and Coal Baron.
Card games are included, with an amateur poker
world championship and bridge, along with a general knowledge quiz, stratego, shogi and dominoes. The most prestigious title is the Pentamind
World Championship, which is awarded to the
competitor who has the best results from five different competitions. Visit: msoworld.com
Although it has yet
to be an Olympic
sport, Rio is the
theme of the Crazy
Golf in the JW3 piazza. The familyfriendly course is
open until 4 September and you can book a game
in advance online (for up to four people), or via the
box office (for up to 12 people), on 020 7433 8988
or just turn up, pay and play. jw3.org.uk/crazygolf

AWAY FROM THE GAMES


also entertain the crowd,
although these skills are
best left to the professionals. At 3 for entry,
youll never experience
Brazil this cheaply.
thebeachbrentcross.
com

To mark the release of Steven Spielbergs BFG


movie and Roald Dahls 100th birthday, giant
magical dream jars have been placed in key
locations in London and around the UK. The PhizzWhizzing art trail will see the childhood dreams
of celebrities and top artists such as Spielberg,
Quentin Blake and Sophie Dahl (the inspiration for
the Sophie character in the book) have been

Horrible Histories (5 August to 3 September) is on


at the Apollo Theatre, in Shaftesbury Avenue. Marking its fifth year in the West End with a Best Of
anniversary production, the stage adaptation of
Terry Dearys books, which wow kids with their gory
retelling of British history is hilarious, gory and
memorable.
From Boadicea
at her bolshiest
to Burke and
Hare, this is a riot
for the whole
family (excluding
toddlers).

THE CINEMA is a haven of inspiration regardless of


the season and UK Jewish film have some really
splendid films on repeat this month at JW3.
Monday, 8 August 6.30pm
DELI MAN directed by Eric Anjou is
a history of the Jewish nosh eateries of America delivered by thirdgeneration deli owner Ziggy Gruber.
Sunday, 21 August 8.45pm
WELL NEVER HAVE PARIS directed,
written and starring Simon Helberg
(who is best known for his role as
Howard Wolowitz in the sitcom
The Big Bang Theory) tells the
story of a neurotic man who
travels to Paris to track down
the woman he always wanted.
Sunday, 28 August 8.45pm
MR GAGA is director Tomer
Heymanns brilliant film about
Ohad Naharin, the prominent
Israeli choreographer or the
man who dances like a cat as he travels around
the world working with dance companies.

A
TO DV
AD BO ISA
VA OK BLE
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NOD TO THE OLYMPICS

Rio Boteco (London Fields E8 ) is a pop-up restaurant showcasing Brazilian gastronomy inspired by
the bohemian botecos (traditional grocery stores).
The brainchild of events company MargoCamilo,
whose founding members are both Brazilian, it
offers traditional tapas and charcuterie, as well as
fusion dishes created in collaboration with
renowned chefs such as Roberta Ciasca from
Rios restaurants Miam Miam and Oui Oui.
rioboteco.co.uk

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T: 020 8445 1188

Check out the website for our full menu

www.cocoricorestaurant.co.uk
1314-1316 High Road, Whetstone, London N20 9HJ

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The Jewish News 4 August 2016

www.jewishnews.co.uk

GLORIOUS FOOD
CONTEMPORARY TURKISH CUISINE
WHETSTONE 020 8445 2196

EDGWARE 020 8951 4460

HATCH END 020 8421 1525


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