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Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ON THE
ROAD

PAGE

48

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings


and insider tips

Thrace &
Marmara
p135

# stanbul
^
p50

Black Sea Coast


zmir & the
North Aegean
p167

Northeastern
Anatolia

p493

Ankara &
Central Anatolia

p520

p397

Western
Anatolia

Southeastern
Anatolia

p270

Cappadocia

Ephesus, Bodrum
& the South Aegean

p553

p444

p209

Antalya & the


Turquoise Coast
p311

Eastern
Mediterranean
p366

SURVIVAL
649 GUIDE
PAGE

Directory A-Z ..................


Transport ........................
Health ..............................
Language ........................
Index ................................
Map Legend ....................

650
665
677
681
694
702

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO


HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Transport
GETTING THERE
& AWAY
Flights, cars and tours can be
booked online at lonelyplanet
.com.

Passport
Make sure your passport will
still have at least six months
validity after you enter Turkey.

Air
Entering the
Country
The main idiosyncrasy to be
aware of is that most visitors need a visa really just
a sticker in their passport,
issued at the point of entry.
You must buy the visa before
joining the queue for immigration. Bring enough cash to
ay for your visa (see p660).
Security at the borders
untries to the east and
st (Georgia, Azerbaiaq and Syria) is
t, and customs
to see
n. If

Its a good idea to book


flights months in advance if
you plan to arrive in Turkey
any time from April until late
August. If you plan to visit
a resort, check with travel
agents for flight and accommodation deals. Sometimes
you can find cheap flights
with Turkish carriers and
less-usual airlines.

Airports
The main international airports are in western Turkey:
Ankara International
Airport (www.esenboga
airport.com)
Antalya International
rport (www.aytport.com

ing b
Express
.com) and An
(%444 2538; ww
.com). Turkish Airlin
had nine crashes sinc
most recently, nine peo
died when one of its plane
crashed at Amsterdams
Schiphol airport in 2009.
Other airlines serving
Turkey are listed below by
region.
AUSTRALIA &
NEW ZEALAND

You can fly from the main


cities in Australia and New
Zealand to stanbul, normally
via Dubai, Kuala Lumpur or
Singapore.
You can often get cheaper
flights with European airlines,
if youre prepared to change
flights again in Europe.
CONTINENTAL EUROPE

Theres not much variation


in fares from one European
airport to another; with the
exception of Germany, which
has the biggest Turkish community outside Turkey, ena
bling some great deals.
Most European national carriers fly dire
stanbul. Cheaper i
flights can be fo
ample chang
en route
sta

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

James Bainbridge
Brett Atkinson, Chris Deliso, Steve Fallon,
Will Gourlay, Jessica Lee, Virginia Maxwell, Tom Spurling

00-prelims-tur13.indd 1

16/11/2012 12:35:15 PM

\
#

\
#

#
\

#
]

#
\

Turkey

\
#

# Bucharest
_

32E

30E

#
]

#
\
#
\

\
#

Sevastopol ]
#
34E

ROMANIA
Gallipoli Peninsula
Now-tranquil site of
WWI battles (p146)
Edirne
Oil-drenched
wrestlers grapple (p136)

BULGAR IA
Burgas

#
+

BLACK SEA
(KARADENZ)

#
]

stanbul
Historic sights; ferries
between Europe & Asia (p50)

#
+

# Krklareli
\
#\
\
#
Kapikule +
#
Edirne

Th
e

+
#

GREECE

Safranbolu
Storybook town of
Ottoman houses (p411)

#
]

#
\

#
\

#
\

Amasra \
#

Sinop

nebolu

Cide

s
oru
ph
os

Zonguldak

#
]

# Safranbolu
\
Kastamonu
#
psala Tekirda orlu stanbul
Karabk ]
#
#
\
#\
+
Tosya Osmanck
#
^
Kocael
# Kean
\
#
\
#
\
Sea
of
s
(zmt)
#
\
Darca \
#
Ilgaz
lle
#
\
#
]
#
]
#
\
Gelibolu rda n e Marmara
Gerede
#
\
Kurunlu
#
\
#
Da
Adapazari
Gallipoli \
Yalova
Bolu
#
T he
ankr \
orum \
#
#
#znik
\
#
Peninsula \
Gemlik \
#
\
Lapseki
#
\
anakkale Bandrma
# Bursa
^
#
Sungurlu \
R

# Troy
Hattua
Ankara
S aka

#
Uluda
(Truva)
r ya River
Yozgat
#
_
(2543m)
Ayvack
Gordion
# Krkkale
]
#
\
#
]
#
\
# Balkesir
]
#
\
Eskiehir

# Assos Edremit
#
\
Lesvos
# Ayvalk
\
# Ktahya
]
Polatl
#
\

#
Bergama \
# Pergamum
# Aliaa
\
Chios
#Yeni
\
# Manisa
]
Foa
eme
#
^

# Sardis
#
\

4
44
444
44 4
444
4
#
\

Afyon
#
\

#
\

Uak

Akehir

zmir

Greme
#
#\
Nevehir \
Derinkuyu
#
\
#
Aksaray \
#
\
Salt Lake
(Tuz Gl) Cappadocia Yahyal
#
\
Nide

#
\
# ivril
\
# Odemis
\
Lake
Eirdir
Lake
Seluk \
#
Pamukkale
Aydin
#
\
#
Beyehir
]
#
Kuadas \
#Hierapolis
#

# \
#
]
Nazilli
#
]
Priene
#
\
Isparta
Ephesus
#
]
#

# Denizli
#
\
Konya
Samos
Beyehir
Burdur
Ikaria
Afrodisias
#
#
Milas \
Didyma
Ereli \
# Yataan
#
Lake
# \
Gllk \
Karaman
#
\
Sula
Mula
Gkova
#
\
#
Perge Aspendos
# avdr
\
Bodrum \
#
\
(Akyaka)
Ortaca

#
#
\
#
#
\
Krobas \
#
# ^
Termessos
Akseki
#
\
Kos
#
Marmaris
# Dalaman
\
# Side
Antalya \
# Fethiye
\
#
\
Uzuncabur
# ldeniz
\
#
\
Kemer
# Alanya
\

Megiste

#
\

# Olympos

Finike

Lycian
Way
Crete

#
Silifke \

#\
# Anamur
Anamurium
36N

Lycian Way
Walk past mountains,
villages and ruins (p35)

Pamukkale
Calcite shelves and a
Roman pool (p295)

#
\

#
^

#
^

Mersin
(el)

Kzkalesi
Olukba

#
\

Lefkoa/
Lefkosia
# (Nicosia)
_

MEDITERRANEAN SEA
(AKDENS)
#
_

34N

32E

30E

28E

26E

#
]

#
]

Cyprus

Fethiye
Cruise on a glet
(wooden yacht) (p320)

02-destination-map-tur13.indd 4

Adana

Tarsus \
#

34E

Ka

#
\

Ephesus
Best-preserved ruins in
the Mediterranean (p211)

Krehir

15/11/2012 12:38:33 PM

44
4
4
44
44
Top Experiences

#
\

36E

#
]

e
#0
0
38E

200 km
100 miles

44N

40E

RUSSIA

Cappadocia
Surreal fairy chimneys
and cave dwellings (p444)

#
\

Ani
Eerie ruins of a former
Armenian capital (p543)

Sukhumi

Kakar Mountains
Hike through highaltitude pastures (p526)

Kutaisi

GEORGIA

#
\

Sumela Monastery
Cliff-face monastery
surveys valleys (p515)

42N

#
Groznyj ]

#
Tbilisi _

#
+

+
#

#
\

er

Batumi
Sarp \
#
Hopa \
#
# Bafra
\
Lake
# Artvin
Mt Kakar \
Vanadzor
ldr
(Kakar Da)
#
]
# Samsun
]
#
Gyumri ]
Trabzon Rize \
Gle
#
(3937m)
#
\
#
\
#
\
# Yusufeli
R \
ARME
NIA
nye
#
\

#
#
# Giresun
\
Kars \
Sumela
Ordu
Ani
Yerevan

# Monastery
v
Lake
#
_
Sarkam \
#
Kazman
# Amasya
\
Ri
#
Gmhane \
Sevan
s River \
#
Bayburt or u h
Idr
#
\
# Tortum Ara
\
Readiye
Turhal \
#
\
#
\
#
\
# Niksar
#
\
Mt Ararat
#
\
Tuzluca
#
\
# Tokat
\
Horasan
Kelkit River
#
\
#
R (Ar Da)
Koyulhisar \
asu River ]
#
(5137m)
Pasinler
# Doubayazt
Suehri \
Kar
Ar \
#
\
# Refahiye
Erzurum
#
\
Grbulak/
#
\
#
\
#
\
r
Sivas
Erzincan
#
+
Tercan
Bazargan
#
Zara
ve ]
Patnos
Ri

#
\

4
4

#
\

# Muradiye
\
Mt Nemrut
IRAN
(Nemrut
Da)
Bingl
# zalp
\
#
\
Mu (3050m) Lake Van
#
]
R
#
]
r
(Van Gl) Van
t Rive
#
Tatvan \
#
]
# Grpnar
\
Elazi Mura
# Grn
\
#
\
# Kayseri
]
#
Bitlis \
Geva
#
Karakaya Dam Mt Nemrut
Bakale \
# Baykan
\
#
]
#
Gksun
atak \
Sero
Malatya (Nemrut Da)
#
]
Elbistan
Kurtalan \
#
#
\
# Siirt
#\
+
#
\
(2150m)
Batman
Esendere
# Doanehir
\
R
#
]
#
^
# Yksekova
\
# R
Hakkari \
Atatrk
Glba Kahta\
# Siverek Diyarbakr
#
#
\
# irnak
\
#
\
Dam \
Mt Cilo
Adyaman \
Kahramanmara
# Hilvan
(Cilo Da)
#
]
(4168m)
s
# Mardin
\
Ri
+
#
Viranehir
# Kozan
\
# Araban
Gazantep \
v er
#
anlurfa \
#
#+
Qamishle ]
#
]

# Karatepe (Antep)
(Urfa)
Nussaybin
# Birecik
\
#
# Osmaniye ^
]
#
\
# Ceylanpnar
#
^

# Harran +
# Barak
\
+
#
Ceyhan
Mosul
Kilis
#
\
+
# Akakale
#
\
#
]
skenderun +
# Elbeyli
# Arbil
]
# +

z
K

#
\

#
\

arkla

#
\

Divrii

Tunceli

Keban
Dam

Tig

ak
rm

ri

#
^

#
\

Antakya
(Hatay)
#
]

+
#
Yaylada

Lattakia

44
44
#
]

Aleppo
(Halab)

Reyhanl
Bab alHawa

Lake
al-Assad

#
\

# Beirut
_

LEBANON

e
iv

Tripoli

#
]

Palmyra

SYRIA

4
4
4

#
Kirkk ]

ELEVATION

Deir ez-Zur

es
at
hr

Konya
Dervishes whirl at the
Mevlna Festival (p434)
#
]

Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Da)


Giant stone heads litter
a mountain (p572)

p
Eu

#
]

#
+

#
\

IRAQ

4
4

3000m
2500m
2000m
1500m
1000m
700m

500m
200m
100m
0

44
02-destination-map-tur13.indd 5

15/11/2012 12:38:48 PM

28

Itineraries

Whether youve got six days or


60, these itineraries provide a
starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.com
/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

GREECE

Bosphorous
Strait

BLACK SEA
(KARADENZ)

stanbul
#

Gallipoli

Peninsula
#

#
anakkale

SEA OF
MARMARA

f
#

Bandrma

Behramkale

#
Ayvalk

GREECE

#
zmir

Seluk #

Ephesus
#

10 Days to Two Weeks

Classic Turkey
Most first-time visitors to Turkey arrive with two ancient names on their lips: stanbul
and Ephesus. Youll need at least three days in stanbul to even scrape the surface of
its millennia of history. The top three sights are the Aya Sofya, Topkap Palace and the
Blue Mosque, but theres a sultans treasury of other sights and activities, including a
cruise up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, nightlife around the heaving stiklal Caddesi, and
the Grand Bazaars 2000-plus shops. From stanbul you can head straight to zmir a laidback coastal city near Ephesus with Aegean vistas and Levantine architecture. If youd like
to see a bit more on the way, take a bus from Bandrma to anakkale, a lively student town
with sweeping views across the Dardanelles, and pay a visit to the Gallipoli Peninsula. An
afternoon tour of the poignant battlefields is a memorable experience. From anakkale, its
a bus ride to tumbledown Ayvalk, and then a dolmu from there to Behramkale, where
you can climb to the Temple of Athena. Finish by taking a bus from Ayvalk to zmir, and
then on to Seluk, where you can organise a taxi or tour to glorious Ephesus, the bestpreserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean.

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 28

14/11/2012 3:12:58 PM

29

#
Amasra

# Safranbolu

stanbul

f
#

znik
Bursa R
Uluda

#
ANKARA _

#
Eskiehir

Hattua
#

Evliya elebi Way #

# Mustafapaa

Cappadocia

St Paul Trail #

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

SEA OF
MARMARA

BLACK SEA
(KARADENZ)

Eirdir

Three to Four Weeks

Cappadocia Express
Travellers are often confronted with a tough choice when deciding where to go in
Turkey after stanbul: Cappadocia or the southwestern coast. If you feel drawn to
the formers fairy-tale landscape, there are a few worthwhile stops en route across
Anatolia. After following the stanbul leg of the Classic Turkey itinerary, hop on a
ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Bursa. The city does a good line in Ottoman mosques
and mausoleums, skender kebaps and Karagz shadow puppets in the Kapal ar (Covered Market); and nearby, a cable car climbs to Uludas ski resort. Head north to znik,
where the citys proud Ottoman tile-making heritage is on display between its RomanByzantine walls.
Next, bus it to Ankara or, with more time, detour along the top of Turkey to Safranbolu.
This Ottoman town, with half-timbered houses among rocky bluffs, is a wonderful introduction to rural Anatolian life. To have your kebap and eat it, you can see a little of the Turkish
coast by taking a further 2-hour detour to the Black Sea town of Amasra, with its castle
and fish restaurants.
Ankara, the Turkish capital, is no match for that show-stealer on the Bosphorus, but two
key sights here give an insight into Turkish history, ancient and modern: the Ant Kabir,
Atatrks hilltop mausoleum, and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, a restored 15thcentury bedesten (covered market) packed with finds from the surrounding steppe. Tying
in with the latter, a detour east takes in the isolated, evocative ruins of Hattua, which was
the Hittite capital in the late Bronze age.
Leave three days to explore Cappadocia, where there are valleys of fairy chimneys, rockcut churches with Byzantine frescoes, underground cities and horse rides to occupy you.
Schedule some time to just sit and appreciate the fantastical landscape in ay-drinking
villages such as Mustafapaa, with its stone-carved Greek houses and 18th-century church.
With time to spare on the return journey to stanbul, stop in lakeside Eirdir, with
its crumbling old quarter ringed by beaches and mountains. In the region are the longdistance walking routes the St Paul Trail and Evliya elebi Way. Eskiehir is a worthy
final stop, with river gondola rides, cultural events, a student-driven nightlife and picturesque old town.

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 29

14/11/2012 3:13:01 PM

30
#

Kakar
Mountains
# Yusufeli

Frtna
Valley
#
#

Kars

# Ani

ARMENIA

AZERBAIJAN

Trabzon

Sumela
Monastery

R Mt Ararat
Doubayazt #
shak
# Paa

AZERBAIJAN
Palace

# Van

IRAN

Gbekli

Tepe #

Mt Nemrut R

Diyarbakr
#

Hasankeyf

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Georgian
Valleys

ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY LTD / ALAMY

BLACK SEA
(KARADENZ)

#
Mardin

# Harran

IRAQ
SYRIA

Four Weeks

Eastern Delights

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 30

14/11/2012 3:13:02 PM

BRUNO EHRS / GETTY IMAGES

Turkeys little-visited eastern reaches are sweeter than bal (honey) for adventurous
travellers. Start with a couple of days in buzzing Trabzon, where sights include
the 13th-century Aya Sofya, then move south to visit Sumela Monastery, peering
down on a forested valley from its rockface. Head back to Trabzon, and then drive
up Frtna Valley, with its Ottoman humpback bridges. Circle the Kakar Mountains or
tackle a multiday trek over the top to Yusufeli, where the oruh River white-water rafting
is worth sampling before a dam floods the area. The drive from Yuufeli to Kars through the
Georgian Valleys is one of Turkeys most scenic, heading over mountains, through gorges
and past crumbling castles to medieval churches in hill villages.
Russian-influenced Kars is an intriguing city surrounded by the vast Anatolian steppe.
The star attraction here is nearby Ani, once a thriving Armenian capital, and now a field
strewn with magnificent ruins next to the border of modern Armenia. Aim to spend a
couple of days in the area; longer if youd like to find other weather-beaten ruins in the surrounding countryside. From Kars, head south past Mt Ararat (Ar Da, 5137m), Turkeys
highest mountain, to Doubayazt. Perching above the predominantly Kurdish border
town, the impossibly romantic shak Paa Palace resembling a scene from One Thousand and One Nights surveys the plains.
From Doubayazt, travel further south to Van, on the shore of a vast, mountain-ringed
lake. Take a couple of days here to see the 10th-century Akdamar church, sole inhabitant of
an island in Lake Van (Van Gl), and Hoap Castle, built by a 17th-century Kurdish chieftain,
which has superb lion reliefs. Heading southwest from the church, dont miss Hasankeyf, a
sort of Cappadocia in miniature, set to be submerged by a dam; and honey-coloured Mardin,
with its minarets, churches and castle, overlooking the roasting Mesopotamian plains.
Turning northwest, enter the Byzantine city walls at Diyarbakr, the heartland of Kurdish culture, before climbing Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Da) to see the gigantic stone heads left
by a megalomaniacal pre-Roman king one of eastern Turkeys most famous sights. Head
south to finish with a final hit of history at anlurfas Neolithic Gbekli Tepe, perhaps the
worlds first place of worship, and Harran, which hosted Abraham in 1900 BC and is one of
the planets oldest continuously inhabited spots.

31

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY LTD / ALAMY


BRUNO EHRS / GETTY IMAGES

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 31

(above) Akdamar Kilisesi (Church of


the Holy Cross; p597) on the shore
of Lake Van
(left) Interior of the Blue Mosque
(p60), stanbul

14/11/2012 3:13:02 PM

32
GREECE

Bosphorous
stanbul #

Strait
SEA OF
MARMARA

Gallipoli
Peninsula
#

f
#

Bandrma

anakkale

Ayvalk

# Pergamum

Greme
#

#
zmir

Cappadocia

Hierapolis

Afrodisias

#
Seluk
#
Ephesus

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Behramkale

Bodrum
Peninsula

Data
Peninsula Bozburun
Antalya
# ldeniz
Peninsula

#

AEGEAN SEA
#

Olympos
Faralya
(EG DENZ)
#
#
GREECE
Ka Kekova Island

Three to Four Weeks

Palm Trees & Fairy Chimneys


If you have a kind boss, you dont have to choose between Cappadocias wavy valleys
and the coasts white-sand beaches prepare to spend many hours on buses and
check out both areas. Follow the Classic Turkey itinerary, with one extra stop in Pergamum (en route from Ayvalk to zmir), where you can see some of Turkeys most
awe-inspiring Roman ruins and climb the hill to the Acropolis.
After Ephesus, take a day trip from your base at Seluk to the travertines and ruins of
Hierapolis at Pamukkale. The brilliant white terraces can be dizzying in the midday sun,
but swimming among submerged marble columns in the Antique Pool will restore your
cool. Nearby Afrodisias is at least as impressive and less crowded the only other people
among the soaring colonnades might be archaeologists.
Returning to the coast, head along the chichi Bodrum Peninsula or the Data and
Bozburun Peninsulas, where the mountain towns and fishing villages are best explored
by scooter. Continuing southeast, beautiful ldeniz is the spot to paraglide over the
Mediterranean or lie low on a beach towel. Youre now within kicking distance of the
509km-long Lycian Way. Hike for a day through superb countryside to overnight in heavenly Faralya, overlooking Butterfly Valley; further inroads into the trail will definitely top
your next time list.
Continuing along the coast, have a pit stop at laid-back Ka, its pretty harbourside square
alive nightly with the hum of friendly folk enjoying the breeze, views, Mediterranean dishes
and a beer or two. One of Turkeys most beguiling boat trips departs from here, taking in
the sunken Byzantine city at Kekova Island. From Ka, its a couple of hours to Olympos,
where you can spend a few days unwinding at the beach tree houses.
From Olympos, head onwards to Antalya. Its Roman-Ottoman quarter, Kaleii, is worth
a wander, set against the backdrop of a jaw-dropping mountain range. Next, drag yourself
away from the beach and catch the bus north to claim your cave in Greme. This travellers hang-out is the most popular base in Cappadocia, a surreal moonscape dotted with
tuff cones, where you can easily spend three days or mroe. The famous formations line the
roads to sights including the rock-cut frescoed churches of Greme Open-Air Museum and
the Byzantine underground cities at Kaymakl and Derinkuyu.

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 32

14/11/2012 3:13:05 PM

33
BULGARIA
#

BLACK SEA
(KARADENZ)

Edirne

SEA OF
MARMARA

Amasra
stanbul

GREECE

Sinop

#
Samsun

# Safranbolu

#
Sivas

Divrii
#

# Pergamum

Ortahisar

#
Soanl

#
Konya

# Ephesus

Cappadocia

Ala Dalar
National Park

Antalya
#

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

# Amasya

AEGEAN SEA
(EG DENZ)

Kekova
Island

CYPRUS

SYRIA

Four Weeks

Anatolian Circle
This trip leaves out only eastern Anatolia, which is a mission in itself, and takes
in obscure gems as well as prime sights. Begin in Edirne, home to the Selimiye
Camii; the 16th-century mosque is the finest work of the great Mimar Sinan. After
Edirne, spend a few days among more mosques, palaces and some 14 million folk
in stanbul, former capital of the Ottoman and Byzantine empires. Next, head east to Safranbolu, with its winding streets of Ottoman mansions, before turning north to Amasra,
where Turkish holidaymakers wander the Byzantine castle and eat in fish restaurants on the
two harbours. The Black Sea port town is the beginning of the drive through rugged hills to
Sinop, birthplace of the Greek philosopher Diogenes the Cynic.
From Sinop, take a bus via Samsun to Amasya and spend a couple of days appreciating
its Ottoman houses, Pontic tombs and castle. Heading further south through Sivas, detour
up a mountain valley to Divrii, an Alevi town that offers a taste of eastern Anatolia. Here
youll find the 800-year-old Unesco-protected Ulu Camii and hospital complex, which has
stone doorways with intricate carvings.
The next stop, Cappadocia, is wholeheartedly back on the beaten track. Spend about three
days here and, instead of joining the rest on a tour bus or hot-air balloon, explore the fairy
chimneys and cave churches by walking or horse riding. Greme and rgp are the usual
bases, but you could stay in a less-touristy village such as Ortahisar, with its craggy castle.
South of central Cappadocia, see rock-cut churches without the crowds in Soanl,
where Byzantine monastic settlements occupy two valleys. If you really want to get away
from it all, head into the Ala Dalar National Park for some of Turkeys most breathtaking scenery in the Taurus Mountains (Toros Dalar).
Youre now fit for the journey across the hazy plains to Konya, a convenient stop en
route to the Mediterranean and the birthplace of the Mevlna (whirling dervish) order.
The turquoise-domed Mevlna Museum, containing the tomb of the orders 13th-century
founder, is an enduring symbol of Turkey.
When you glimpse the glittering Med, follow the coastal part of the Palm Trees and Fairy
Chimneys itinerary. You wont have time to stop everywhere if you want to sunbathe and hit
the hamam Seljuk Sefa Hamam in Antalya is a good one so pick some highlights, such
as the ruins at Kekova Island, Ephesus and Pergamum.

09-itineraries-tur13.indd 33

14/11/2012 3:13:06 PM

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their


favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons:


Our authors top
recommendation

STANBUL . . . . . . . . . .50
AROUND STANBUL . . . . . 130
Princes Islands . . . . . . . . .130

THRACE &
MARMARA . . . . . . . . . 135
Edirne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
Uzunkpr . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
Tekirda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
Gelibolu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Gallipoli (Gelibolu)
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Eceabat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
Kilitbahir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
anakkale . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
Gkeada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Troy (Truva) &
Tevfikiye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
Bandrma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166

ZMIR & THE


NORTH AEGEAN . . . . 167
Bozcaada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
Behramkale & Assos . . . . . 172
Bay of Edremit . . . . . . . . . . 175
Ayvalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Alibey Island . . . . . . . . . . . .180
Bergama (Pergamum). . . . 181
andarl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Foa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
zmir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190
Manisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
eme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Alaat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Sack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Akkum & Teos . . . . . . . . . . 208

13-on-the-road-title-tur13.indd 48

A green or
sustainable option

EPHESUS, BODRUM
& THE SOUTH
AEGEAN . . . . . . . . . . 209
EPHESUS &
AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Ephesus (Efes) . . . . . . . . . . 211
Seluk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
irince . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Tire & Kaplan . . . . . . . . . . .227
Pamucak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Kuadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Dilek Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 232
PRIENE, MILETUS,
DIDYMA & AROUND . . . . . 233
Priene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Miletus (Milet) . . . . . . . . . 235
Didyma (Didim) . . . . . . . . 238
Milas & Around . . . . . . . . . 240
BODRUM
PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Bodrum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Bitez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Gmlk . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251
Trkbk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
MARMARIS &
AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Marmaris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Mula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Data & Bozburun
Peninsulas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264

WESTERN
ANATOLIA . . . . . . . . .270
znik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272
Bursa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275
Phrygian Valley . . . . . . . . . 285

No payment
required

Eskiehir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Ktahya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291
Afyon
(Afyonkarahisar) . . . . . . . 292
PAMMUKALE
REGION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
Pamukkale . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
Afrodisias. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301
LAKE DISTRICT . . . . . . . . .302
Eirdir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Sagalassos . . . . . . . . . . . . 308

ANTALYA & THE


TURQUOISE COAST. .311
Dalyan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .313
Kyceiz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Dalaman. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319
Gcek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319
Fethiye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
ldeniz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .327
Butterfly Valley &
Faralya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
Kabak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
Kayaky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Tlos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Saklkent Gorge . . . . . . . . 332
Pnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Leton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Xanthos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Patara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Kalkan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
Ka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341
az & Kekova. . . . . . . . 347
Kaleky (Kale) . . . . . . . . . 348
Kale (Demre). . . . . . . . . . . 349
Olympos & ral . . . . . . . 350

12/11/2012 3:50:51 PM

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road
Phaselis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
Antalya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354

EASTERN
MEDITERRANEAN . .366
Side. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
Alanya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
Anamur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376
Taucu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
Silifke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
Kzkalesi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381
Mersin (el) . . . . . . . . . . . 383
Tarsus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Adana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
skenderun . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Antakya (Hatay) . . . . . . . . .391

ANKARA & CENTRAL


ANATOLIA . . . . . . . . .397
ANKARA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399
AROUND ANKARA . . . . . . . 410
Gordion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410
Beypazar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
Safranbolu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
Kastamonu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
Boazkale, Hattua
& Yazlkaya . . . . . . . . . . . . .419
Alacahyk . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
orum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
Amasya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
Tokat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
Sivas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430
Konya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434
Karaman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442
Binbirkilise. . . . . . . . . . . . . 443

13-on-the-road-title-tur13.indd 49

CAPPADOCIA . . . . . 444
Greme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
Uhisar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
avuin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
Zelve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
Devrent Valley . . . . . . . . . . 464
Avanos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
Nevehir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
Ortahisar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
rgp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
Ayval . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .474
Mustafapaa . . . . . . . . . . . .475
Soanl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
Nide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
Ala Dalar National
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .481
Ihlara Valley
(Ihlara Vadisi) . . . . . . . . . . 482
Gzelyurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485
Aksaray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
Kayseri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
Sultan Han. . . . . . . . . . . . . 492

BLACK SEA COAST . . 493


Amasra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
Sinop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
Samsun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
nye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
Ordu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
Giresun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
Trabzon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
Sumela Monastery . . . . . . .515
Uzungl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .516
Rize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
Hopa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .519

NORTHEASTERN
ANATOLIA . . . . . . . . .520
ERZURUM &
AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
Erzurum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .521
Palandken . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
KAKAR
MOUNTAINS . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
FAR NORTHEAST. . . . . . . . 534
Georgian Valleys . . . . . . . . 534
Artvin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
Kars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
Ani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
Sarkam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
Doubayazt . . . . . . . . . . . 548
Mt Ararat (Ar
Da) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .551

SOUTHEASTERN
ANATOLIA . . . . . . . . .553
Gaziantep (Antep) . . . . . . 556
anlurfa (Urfa) . . . . . . . . 563
Harran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
Kahta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571
Nemrut Da
National Park . . . . . . . . . . .572
Malatya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .577
Diyarbakr . . . . . . . . . . . . . .581
Mardin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587
Midyat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
Bitlis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
Tatvan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
Lake Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .597
Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
Hoap &
avutepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604

12/11/2012 3:50:53 PM

Steve Fallon
Antalya & the Turquoise Coast With a house in Kalkan, Steve treats Turkey like
a second home. And this assignment kept him pretty much in his own backyard
(Lycia) from the riverine turtle town of Dalyan to pulsating Antalya, capital
of Turkeys Mediterranean coast. OK, OKTrkeyi hala maara adam gibi
konuuyor (he still speaks Turkish like a caveman), but no Turk has called him
Tarzan yet.
Will Gourlay
History, Architecture, Arts, People A serial visitor to Turkey, Will has been leaving
his home base of Melbourne on regular Turkish forays for more than 20 years. As
a backpacker, English teacher and writer he has explored all corners of Anatolia,
the more remote the better. His most recent trips have been with his wife and
children in tow, although they usually stay on the beach while he rummages
around in the backwoods or takes the train into Iran. He is currently researching a
PhD on Turkish politics and society.
Jessica Lee
Ankara & Central Anatolia, Cappadocia Jessica spent four years traversing the
breadth of Turkey as a tour leader. In late 2011 she returned here to live and this
edition saw her researching the Seljuk splendour and Hittite ruins of central
Anatolia and the surreal scenery of Cappadocia. Jessica has authored several
guidebooks to Middle Eastern destinations and her travel writing has appeared in
publications including the Independent, the Daily Telegraph and Wanderlust.
Virginia Maxwell
stanbul, Turkish Table Although based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her
year researching guidebooks in the Mediterranean countries. Of these, Turkey is
unquestionably her favourite. As well as working on the previous four editions of
this country guide, she is also the author of Lonely Planets stanbul city and
pocket guides and writes about the city for a host of international magazines and
websites. Virginia usually travels with partner Peter and son Max, who have grown
to love Turkey as much as she does.
Read more about Virginia at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxwell

Tom Spurling
Thrace & Marmara, zmir & the North Aegean Tom Spurling lives in Perth with
his wife Lucy and their two children, Oliver and Poppy. He has worked in five
continents for Lonely Planet and this is his 3rd edition of Turkey. When not
travelling he teaches high-school English and is currently completing a Masters
in International Education Policy. Advice for first-time travellers to Turkey? ay,
hamam, ay. Repeat daily.

42-our-writers-tur13.indd 703

16/11/2012 11:08:33 AM

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of


adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but
inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has oces in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 sta and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

OUR WRITERS
James Bainbridge
Coordinating Author, Black Sea Coast, Northeastern Anatolia, Turkey Today,
Plan, Survival Guide Coordinating this guide for the third time, media
assignments and extracurricular wanderings have taken James to most of
Turkeys far-flung regions. He lived in stanbul (Cihangir to be exact) while
coordinating the previous edition of this book, and learnt to love suxes while
studying a Turkish-language course. For this edition, discovering northeastern
Anatolias mountains and steppe, ruins and Caucasian ambience showed him yet another side of
this multifaceted and endlessly intriguing country. When hes not venturing to Kakar yaylalar
(high-altitude pastures) or tucking into Black Sea cuisine, he lives in Cape Town, South Africa. Visit
James website at www.jamesbainbridge.net.
Read more about James at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/james_bains

Brett Atkinson
Eastern Mediterranean, Southeastern Anatolia Since first visiting Turkey in 1985,
Brett has returned regularly to one of his favourite countries. For his third Lonely
Planet trip to Turkey, he explored the Kurdish heartland of southeastern Anatolia
and reignited an interest in archaeology while travelling along the stunning
Mediterranean coast. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, and has covered
more than 40 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See
www.brett-atkinson.net for what hes been eating recently and where hes travelling to next.
Chris Deliso
Ephesus, Bodrum & the South Aegean, Western Anatolia Chris first experienced
stanbuls total sensory overload in 1999, during an Oxford MPhil dedicated to
Turkeys Byzantine incarnation. Since then hes travelled widely throughout
Turkey, from the IranIraq border area and the lush Black Sea coast to semitropical Aegean beaches in the west. Having developed a deep aection for this
ever-surprising country, Chris was delighted to return to western Anatolia and
the South Aegean for this book. He also writes about nearby Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and
Macedonia for Lonely Planet.
Read more about Chris at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/chrisdeliso

OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
13th edition April 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 039 2
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
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mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
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and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

42-our-writers-tur13.indd 704

16/11/2012 11:08:36 AM

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