Pattern comes in

three sizes:

TIN SHED YARNS
SIMPLE SLIP- OVER

Baby to 18mths, Infant to 3
yrs, and 4 to 6 yrs.

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Small size (baby to 18mths)
uses 140gm Tin Shed Yarn
8ply wool.
Medium size (Infant to 3 yrs)
uses 240gm of Tin Shed Yarn
8ply wool.
Large size (4-6 yrs) uses
300gm of Tin Shed Yarn 8ply
wool.
REQUIREMENTS

dY

Needles -3.5mm

Stitch markers, wool needle
and four 10mm buttons.

Gauge is firm at 36 stitches over 52
rows on 3.5mm needles for a 2ocm
square.

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Pattern designed for Tin Shed Yarns 8 ply hand- spun wool.

nS

SCHEMATIC LAYOUT FOR SIMPLE SLIP-OVER
FOR USE WITH TIN SHED YARNS 8PLY WOOL

End
here

Button closure
on right
shoulder

Ti

Armhole

Back of neck showing garter
stitch detail at neck and armholes.
Tin Shed Yarns use only
naturally coloured fleeces
from small flocks. Wool is spun
by hand in the grease, then
washed.

Arm-hole

Side Seams are sewn
here

TIN SHED YARNS
Start here

21 Nelson st Helensville

No seam at shoulder.
Continue and cast-on extra stitches.

tinshedyarns@gmail.com
tinshedyarn.blogspot.co.nz

1

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over

Row 76: Purl. (20 sts)

SMALL SIZE

Row 77: Purl.

Front Section

Row 78: Purl.

Cast on 60 sts.

Row 79: Purl loosely (20 sts)

Rows 1 - 7: (K, p) x 30 Ribbed Edge.

Row 80: Bind off. Break yarn.

Row 8: Purl.

Return to Row 43 to complete the left
shoulder of the slip-over. You will have to
join your yarn here.

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Row 9: Knit. Rows 10 - 27: Repeat rows 8 - 9.
Row 28: Purl.

Row 43 Left Side: P5, ssk, k 13, p5. (24
sts)

Row 29: Knit.

Row 44 Left Side: Purl.

Rows 30 - 31: Repeat rows 28 - 29.

Row 45 Left Side: P5, ssk, k12, p5. (23 sts)

Row 32: Purl.

Row 46 Left Side: Purl.

Row 33: P5, ssk, k48, k2tog, p5. (60 sts)

Row 47 Left Side: P5, ssk, k 11, p5. (22
sts)

Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: P5, ssk, k46, k2tog, p5. (58 sts)

Row 48 Left Side: Purl.

Row 36: Purl.
Row 37: P5, ssk, k44, k2tog, p5. (56)
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: P5, ssk, k16, p10, k16, k2tog, p5. (54 sts)
Row 40: Purl.
Row 41: P5, ssk, k13, k2tog, p10, ssk, k13, k2tog, p5. (50 sts)
Row 42: Purl.

dY

Row 49 Left Side: P5, ssk, k 10, p5. (21
sts.)

Row 43: P5, k13, k2tog, p5. (24 sts)

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This is where the front section divides for the shoulders. Mark 25 stitches for each shoulder.
You will work one shoulder at a time.

TURN WORK. Work right shoulder of slip-over with left shoulder stitches held towards the end
of your needles.

Row 51 Left Side: P5, ssk k10, p5. (20 sts)
Row 52 Left Side: Purl.
Row 53 Left Side: P5, k10, p5. (20 sts)
Rows 54-72 continue as for Rows 52-53.
(20 sts.)
Row 73 Left Side: P5, k10, P 5. You will
then cast on a further 30 stitches to start
the back section. (50 sts)
Row 74 Left Side: P20, and then cast on a
further 30 stitches. (50 sts.)
Row numbers from here on will start at
1.

nS

Row 44: Purl.

Row 50 Left Side: Purl.

Row 45: P5, k12, k2tog, p5. (23 sts)

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over Back Section.

Row 46: Purl.

Row 1 (RS): K20, co x 30. (50 sts)

Row 47: P5, k11, k2tog, p5. (22 sts)

Row 2 (RS): P5, k10, p20, k10, p5.You are
now working across the top of the
shoulders in a right to left direction
(knitwise).

Row 48: Purl.

Row 49: P5, k10, k2tog, p5. (21 sts)

Row 3 (WS): Purl.

Row 51: P5, k10, p5. (20 sts.)

Row 52: Purl.

Row 4 (RS): P5, k10, p20, k10, p5. At this
point you are creating a neat square
edge for the neck-line in garter stitch.

Rows 53-70 Continue as for Rows 51- 52. (20 sts)

Row 5(WS): Purl (50 sts)

Row 71: Purl 5, k10, p5. (20 sts)

Row 6 (RS): P5, k12, p20, k10, p5.

Row 72: Purl. (20 sts)

Row 7(WS): Purl.

Row 73: Purl across the whole row. (20 sts) This is the start of the garter stitch edge to the top
right shoulder.

Row 8: P5, k10, p20, k10, k5.

Ti
Row 50: Purl.

Row 74: Purl across whole row.

Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: P5, k10, p20, k10, p5.

Row 75: P2, yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog, p3, yo, p2tog, p3, yo, p2tog, p2. These are the
buttonholes.

2

Row 11: Purl.

Row 12(RS):P5, k40, p5.
Rows 13 - 33: Continue as for rows 11 - 12.
Row 34: P5, m1kwise, p40, m1kwise, p5. (52 sts)
Row 35: Knit.
Row 36: P5, m1pwise, p42, m1pwise, p5. (54 sts)
Row 37: Purl.

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Row 38: P5, m1kwise, p44, m1kwise, p5. (56 sts)
Row 39: Purl.
Row 40: P5, m1kwise, p46, m1kwise, p5. (58 sts)
Row 41: Purl. (59 sts)
Row 42: P5, m1kwise, p48, m1kwise, p5. (60 sts)
Row 43: Purl.
Row 44: P5, k50, p5.
Rows 45 - 48: Continue as for rows 43 - 44.

Row 50: Purl. (60 sts)
Rows 51 - 68: Repeat rows 49 - 50.

dY

Row 49: Knit.

Rows 69 - 75: 7 rows of 1x1 ribbing. (K, p) x 30. Knit this last row loosely and then cast-off.
Break yarn.
Small Size uses 140gm of Tin Shed Yarn Hand Spun 8ply.
Gauge 36 sts over 52 rows for a 20cm square on 3.5 needles.

Ti

nS

he

Measurements: Chest 64 cm. Back of neck to hem 32cm.

3

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over

Front Section

Row 98: Purl. (22 sts)

Cast on 66 sts.

Row 99: Purl.

Rows 1 - 7: (K, p) x 33 Ribbed edge.

Row 100: Purl.

Row 8: Purl.

Row 101: Purl loosely (22 sts)

Row 9: Knit.

Row 102: Bind off. Break yarn.

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MEDIUM SIZE

Row 97: P2, yo, p2tog, p3, yo, p2tog, p4,
yo, p2tog, p.3, yo, p2tog, p2. These are
the buttonholes.

Rows 10 - 27: Repeat rows 8 - 9.

Return to Row 55 to complete the left
shoulder of the slip-over. You will have to
join your yarn here.

Row 28: Purl.
Row 29: Knit.

Row 55 : Left Side: P5, ssk, k15,p5. (26
sts)

Rows 30 - 43: Repeat rows 28 - 29.

Row 56: Left Side : Purl.

Row 44: Purl.

Row 57 : Left Side: P5, ssk, k 14, p5. (25
sts)

Row 45: P5, ssk, k52, k2tog, p5. (64 sts)
Row 46: Purl.

Row 58 : Left Side: Purl.

Row 47: P5, ssk, k50, k2tog, p5. (62 sts)
Row 48: Purl.
Row 49: P5, ssk, k48, k2tog, p5. (60 sts)
Row 50: Purl.
Row 51: P5, ssk, k18, p10, k18, k2tog, p5. (58 sts)
Row 52: Purl.

dY

Row 59 : Left Side: P5, ssk, k13, p5. (24
sts)

Row 54: Purl.
Row 55: P5, k15, k2tog, p5. (26 sts)

he

Row 53: P5, ssk, k15, k2tog, p10, ssk, k15, k2tog, p5. (54 sts) This is where the front section
divides for the shoulders. You will work one shoulder at a time.

Row 61: Left Side: P5, ssk, k 12, p5. (23
sts)
Row 62: Left Side: Purl.
Row 63: Left Side: P5, k 12, p5. (22 sts.)
Rows 64--98 continue as for Rows 62-63.
(22 sts.)
Row 99 Left Side: P5, k12, P5.

TURN WORK. Work right shoulder of slip-over with left shoulder stitches held towards the end
of your needles.

Row 100 Left Side: P22. You will then
cast on a further 44 stitches to start the
back section. (66 sts.)
Row numbers from here on will start at
1.

nS

Row 56: Purl.

Row 60 : Left Side: Purl.

Row 57: P5, k14, k2tog, p5. (25 sts)

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over Back Section.

Row 58: Purl.

Row 1 (RS): K22, co x 34 . (56 sts)

Row 59: P5, k13, k2tog, p5. (24 sts)

Row 2 (RS): P5, k12, p22, k12, p5. You are
now working across the top of the
shoulders in a right to left direction
(knitwise).

Row 60: Purl.

Ti

Row 61: P5, k12, k2tog, p5. (23 sts)
Row 62: Purl.

Row 3: (WS): Purl.

Row 63: P5, k11, k2tog, p5. (22 sts))
Row 64: Purl.

Row 4 (RS): P5, k12, p22, k12, p5.. At this
point you are creating a neat square
edge for the neck-line in garter stitch.

Row 65: P5, k12, p5. (22 sts)

Row 5: (WS).Purl (56 sts)

Row 66: Purl

Row 6 (RS): P5, k12, p22, k12, p5.

Row 67: P5, k12, p5. (22 sts)

Row 7 (WS) Purl (56 sts)

Rows 68-94 Continue as for Rows 65- 66. (22 sts)

Row 8: P5, k12, p22, k12, p5.

Row 95: Purl across whole row. (22 sts) This is the start of the garter stitch edge to the top
right shoulder.

Row 9: Purl
Row 10: P5, k12, p22, k12,p5.

Row 96: Purl across whole row.
Row 11: Purl

4

Row 12: (RS) P5, k46, p5.
Rows 13-33: Continue as for rows 11-12.
Row 34: P5, m1kwise, p46, m1kwise, k5. (58 sts)
Row 35: Purl.
Row 36: P5, m1kwise, p48, m1kwise, p5. (60 sts)
Row 37: Purl.

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Row 38: P5, m1kwise, p50, m1kwise, p5. (62 sts)
Row 39: Purl.
Row 40: P5, m1kwise, p52, m1kwise, p5. (64 sts)
Row 41: Purl.
Row 42: P5, m1kwise, p54, m1kwise, p5. (66 sts)
Row 43: Purl.
Row 44: P5, k56, p5.
Rows 45 - 48: Continue as for rows 43 - 44.

Row 50: Knit. (66 sts)
Rows 51 - 68: Repeat rows 49 - 50.

dY

Row 49: Purl.

Rows 69 - 75: 7 rows of 1x1 ribbing. (K, p) x 30. Knit this last row loosely and then cast-off.
Break yarn.
Medium Size uses 240gm of Tin Shed Yarn Hand Spun 8ply.
Gauge 36 sts over 52 rows for a 20cm square on 3.5 needles.

nS

he

Measurements: Chest 76cm cm. Back of neck to hem 38cm.

Ti

Tin Shed Yarns Simple Slip-Over

5

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over

Row 104: Purl. (24 sts)

LARGE SIZE

Row 105: Purl.

Front Section

Row 106: Purl.

Cast on 74 sts.

Row 107: Purl loosely (24 sts)

Rows 1 - 7: (K, p) x 35 Ribbed edge.

Row 108: Bind off. Break yarn.

Row 8: Purl.

Return to Row 61 to complete the left
shoulder of the slip-over. You will have to
join your yarn here.

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Row 9: Knit.
Rows 10 - 48: Repeat rows 8 - 9.

Row 61: Left Side: P5, ssk, k18, p5. (29
sts)

Row 49: P5, ssk, k60, k2tog, p5. (72 sts)

Row 56: Left Side: Purl.

Row 50: Purl.

Row 57: Left Side: P5, ssk, k 17, p5. (28
sts)

Row 51: P5, ssk, k60, k2tog, p5. (70 sts)
Row 52: Purl.

Row 58: Left Side: Purl.

Row 53: P5, ssk, k58, k2tog, p5. (68 sts)

Row 59: Left Side: P5, ssk, k16, p5. (27
sts)

Row 54: Purl.

Row 60: Left Side: Purl.

Row 56: Purl.
Row 57: P5, ssk, k21, p10, k21. K2tog, p5. (64 sts)
Row 58: Purl

dY

Row 55: P5, ssk, k56, k2tog, p5. (66 sts)

Row 59: P5, ssk, k18, k2tog, p10, ssk, k18, k2tog, p5. (60 sts) This is where the front section
divides for the shoulders. You will work one shoulder at a time.
Row 60: Purl.

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Row 61: P5, k18, k2tog, p5. (29 sts)

TURN WORK. Work right shoulder of slip-over with left shoulder stitches held towards the end
of your needles.
Row 62: Purl.
Row 63: P5, k17, k2tog, p5. (28 sts)

Row 62: Left Side: Purl.
Row 63: Left Side: P5, ssk,k 14, p5. (25
sts.)
Row 64: Left Side: Purl.
Row 65: Left Side: P5, ssk, k14, p5. (24
sts)
Row 66: Left Side: Purl.
Row 67: Left Side: P5, k14, p5. (24 sts)
Row 68: Left Side: Purl.
Rows 69--104 continue as for Rows 6670.

nS

Row 64: Purl.

Row 61: Left Side: P5, ssk, k 15, p5. (26
sts)

Row 105: Left Side: P5, k14, p5. (24 sts)

Row 65: P5, k16, k2tog, p5. (27 sts)

Row 106 Left Side: P24. You will then cast
on a further 40 stitches to start the back
section. (64 sts.) Row numbers from here
on will start at 1.

Row 66: Purl.

Row 67: P5, k2tog, k15, p5. (26 sts)
Row 68: Purl.

Tin Shed Yarns Slip-Over Back Section.

Row 69: P5, k14, k2tog, p5. (25 sts)

Ti

Row 1 (RS): K24,co 40. (64 sts)

Row 70: Purl

Row 72: Purl.

Row 2 (RS): P5, k14, p26, k14, p5. (64 sts)
You are now working across the top of
the shoulders in a right to left direction
(knitwise).

Row 73: P5, k14, p5. (24 sts)

Row 3 (WS): Purl.

Row 74: Purl.

Row 4 (RS): P5, k14, p26, k14, p5. At this
point you are creating a neat square
edge for the neck-line in garter stitch.

Row 71: P5, k13, k2tog, p5. (24 sts)

Rows 75-100 Continue as for Rows 73- 74. (24 sts)
Row 101: Purl across whole row. (24 sts) This is the start of the garter stitch edge to the top
right shoulder.

Row 5 (WS): Purl (64 sts)
Row 6 (RS): P5, k14, p26, k12, p5.

Row 102: Purl across whole row.
Row 7 (WS): Purl.(64 sts)
Row 103: P2, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p.4, yo, p2tog, p2. These are the
buttonholes.

6

Row 8: P5, k14, p26, k14, k5. (64 sts)

Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: P5, k12, p26, k14, p5.
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: (RS) P5, k54, p5. (64 sts)
Rows 13-33: Continue as for rows 11-12.
Row 34: P5, m1kwise, p54, m1kwise, p5. (66 sts)

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Row 35: Purl.
Row 36: P5, m1kwise, p56, m1kwise, p5. (68 sts)
Row 37: Purl.
Row 38: P5, m1kwise, p58, m1kwise, p5. (70 sts)
Row 39: Purl.
Row 40: P5, m1kwise, p60, m1kwise, p5. (72 sts)
Row 41: Purl.
Row 42: P5, m1kwise, p62, m1kwise, p5. (74 sts)

Row 44: P5, k64, p5.
Rows 45 - 48: Continue as for rows 43 - 44.
Row 49: Knit.
Row 50: Purl. (74 sts)
Rows 51 - 68: Repeat rows 49 - 50.

dY

Row 43: Purl.

he

Rows 69 - 75: 7 rows of 1x1 ribbing. (K, p) x 37. Knit this last row loosely and then cast-off.
Break yarn.
Large Size uses 300gm of Tin Shed Yarn Hand Spun 8ply.

Gauge 36 sts over 52 rows for a 20cm square on 3.5 needles.

Ti

nS

Measurements: Chest 80 cm. Back of neck to hem 43cm.

7

1.

Using stitch-markers helps with the repetition of counting stitches and the
changes between purl and knit stitches (especially at the neck-edge).

2.

Sewing up and reinforcing seams: Using a wool needle (a bodkin or a tapestry
needle will suffice) butt the side seams together and carefully over-sew the
sides together working from the Wrong Side (WS). Fig. 3.
Be careful to match and sew together at least one ridge of garter stitch at
the under-arm. This will neatly reinforce the arm-hole. If the centre garter
stitching at the base of the V-neck is not as tidy as you would like, pull the
sides of the V together as a tiny seam matching ridge-lines of the garter
stitch. Fig. 5.
Bury ends of wool in the knitted wool fabric and cut after blocking. Aim not
to use knots at the start and end of seams.
Joining yarn. The wool for this project is tough enough not to need knots or
felted joins. Simply lay the wool from the new ball alongside the last of the
old ball so that there is a 10cm overlap. Keep working the pattern and
maintain even tension while knitting with the two strands until the last of the
pld is used up. Once the garment is blocked, loose ends can be cut.

4.

Washing and blocking the Slip-Over:

dY

3.

You will wash the slip-over once in a wool-wash and lay it out flat to dry. Use
strong pins (T-pins are useful) to shape the work into straight lines. This is
called blocking. Fig.4.

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GENERAL NOTES ON WORKING THE TIN SHED YARNS SLIP-OVER

Figure 1 Back Left Shoulder.

Figure 2 Slip-Over showing shoulder
finish.

Once the garment is dry, un-pin and sew the side seams. Dampen the slipover lightly along the finished seam-lines (I use spray fabric conditioner).

5.

Buttons:

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Once completely dry and blocked, the buttons can be sewn on to match the
button-holes.

You will need four 10mm buttons. Place each one opposite its corresponding
button-hole and sew in place using a sewing needle and sewing thread.
Fasten the shoulder button-holes. Fig.3.

Ti

nS

Figure 3 Joining the Slip-Over side
seams.

8

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Figure 3 Arm-hole and shoulder detail.

dY
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Figure 4 Slip-Over front showing purl stitch detail at neckline.

Figure 5 Armhole detail. Side seam ends after two ridges of garter stitch are joined.

nS

DISCLAIMER

Ti

This Slip-Over Pattern has been designed for use
with Tin Shed Yarns 8ply wool knitting yarn. Gauge
is specific to this yarn density. Should you change
the gauge, you will not achieve the designed
equivalent.

COPYRIGHT

This pattern and all the details and content in it is the property of Tin Shed Yarns. If you
are using this pattern you will be doing so with my knowledge as I am the creator of this
work. If you want to change or alter a detail that is perfectly reasonable but you cannot
claim it as your work without acknowledging my design in the first place. Should you
want to use this pattern to make items for sale then you are obliged by law to contact
me first. I would be honoured to see this design used well and appropriately.
Fiona MacBride
tinshedyarn.blogspot.co.nz

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