FORD Falcon XA Repair Manual

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XA-ZF REPAIR MANUAL
XA/ ZF SERIES.
WORKSHOP
MANUAL
FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LIMITED
Registered Office: CAMPBELLFIELO, VICTORIA
Incorporated in Victoria
Copyright -
Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited
Reproduction In whole or In part prohibited without written approval

Registered In Australia for transmission by post as a book
Printed by The Dominion Press-Hedges & Bell , Maryborough, Vic.
FOREWORD
This manual provides Nlformation for the proper servicing of the
Ford Falcon-Fairlane. The descriptions and specifications con-
tained in this manual were in effect at the time the manual was
approved for printing.
The Ford Motor Company of Australia
Limited reserves the right to discontinue models at any time or

change specifications or design, without notice and without incurring obligation.
FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LIMITED

(INCORPORATED IN VICTORIAI
MILIOUINI, VICTOIIA
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P

oROUP
1
PAGE
PART 11- Vehicle Identification XA/ZF Series
1-2
PART 12-
1-4
Accessories
PART
1-1
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
FORD FALCON -
FAIRLANE
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION (XA MODELS) (ZF MODELS)
~PREFIX BODY
SER. NO.
SIDO NO.
MOPEL
I
II
II
II
TRANS. RR.AX. FT.AX. PAINT
01 II II . II
II
ENGINE
BRK. BSTR.,
s. v.o.r
II
G. V~.W~.,;:===::;-,-:-L:-BS:-.____.
TRIM
I
I
I 1......_ ......
f:ORDf
SEA Tl NG CAP
WAS. MANUFACTURED BY
FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LTD.
TO COMPLY WITH AUSTRALIAN DESIGN RULES
NOS.
I 4, SA, 7, 20
THIS PLATE IS AFFIXED WITH THE

APPROVAL OF THE
AUSTRALIAN MOTOR VEHICLE CERTIFICATION BOARD
QLocation: Left hand Upper Firewall Panel.

Engine
Interpretation:
Code
Engine Displacement
Prefix: Manufacturers use only.
200 CID Low Octane
Serial No.: Manufacturers use only.
200 CID
250 CID Low Octane

250 CID IV
Product Line
L
y
302 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)
Digit 3
Model Year
Digit 4
Body Style
Digit 5
Series
Sido No.: Dealer Order No.

Model: Digits 1 & 2
1-3
PART 1-1-VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
TRANSMISSION
TRIM
Code
Type
3 Speed Column
Shift 199333 Series
3 Speed Column
Shift 199332& 199331 Series
(All Synchro)
4 Speed Floor Shift Manual
RUG AF & RUG BF
Colour
Code
A
Blue
Black
Green
Parchment
Red
Saddle
Y.
Burgundy
Dark Grey**
PAINT
White
One letter indicates single tone. Two letters .indicate

tu-tone, the first signifying the upper colour, and the
second, the lower colour.
**Available on Fleet Orders Only.
L
R
3 Speed Cruisomatic
Column Shift
T. Bar Cruisomatic
Code
A
B
c
D
G
M
I
N
R
u
y
3
4
7
8
J
Colour
Medium Yellow
Onyx Black
Beige
Yellow
Wild Violet (Met)
Turquoise
Blue
Jewel Green (Met)
Burgundy
Copper (Met)
Ultra White
Lime Green (Met)
Bright Red
Dark Green (Met)
Dark Brown (Met)
Dark Blue (Met)
Bright Lime Green (Met)
.:
PART
1-2
ACCESSORIES
The following items are Ford Motor Company approved accessories for the XA Falcon and ZF Fairlane range of
vehicles. These accessories are available through all authorised Ford dealers.
Item
Part No.
Insect Screen - XA
-ZF
Sun Visor - Exterior - Steel - Primed
-Mesh
- Black Vinyl
- Beige Vinyl
Kit ~ Sun Visor Attaching Hardware
Venetian Shades-Sedan-White
-Sedan-Black
Rear Quarter Window-Wagon
Weather Shields-Tinted-R.H. (Vented
door)
-Clear-R.H.
-Tinted-L.H.
''
-Tinted-R.H. (Ventless
door)
-Clear-R.H.
"
-Tinted-L.H.
"
Kit - Windscreen Protector
XA 18690A
ZF 18690 A
XA 18236 A
XA 18236 B
XA 18236 C
XA 18236 D
XA 18235 A
XA 18246A
XA 18246 B
XA 18247 A
XA 18492 A
XA 18492 B
XA 18493 A
XA
XA
XA
XA
Item
BODYSIDE PROTECTION MOULDING
Kit - Bodyside Mouldings - XA Sed.
-ZF
-XA Ute/Van
- XAWag.
Childs Safety Harness
Totguard - Child Safety Seat
Part No.
XA
XA
XA
XA
19600A
19000B
196000
19600 E
XW 5861204A
XW5861205A
18492 C
18492 D
18493 B
19000A
RADIOS and ANTENNAS

Radio Kit - Deluxe Push Button
(Less Aerial)
XA 18805 A
Radio Kit - Delu..x.e Manual (Less Aerial) XA 18805 B
XA 18805 C
Radio Kit- "Super Fringe" Deluxe
- Push Button (Less Aerial)
ZA 18805 D
Radio Kit- "Super Fringe" Deluxe
- Manual (Less Aerial)
Radio/Stereo -Basic Unit (Less Aerial) XA 19A035 A
- Components Kit
XA 18875 AS
(Less Aerial)
XW 18813 B
Radio Aerial - Motorized
XW 18813C
- Lockdown
-Normal
XW 18813A
XR 18813.A
-Rear Deck
Radio Extension Speaker
XA 18875 A
XW 18A805A
Kit - Radio Earthing - V/8 Only
XA 18813AA
Radio Aerial-Base Gasket Kit-Falcon
FLOOR MATS
Rubber - Black (High Pile)
- Blue
- Red
- Grey
- Sandy Brown
Rubber - Black Deluxe
-Blue
-Red
- Grey
- Sandy Brown
R6
R6
. R6
R6
R6
R6
R6
R6
R6
R6
- 11
-12
- 13
- 151
-1 52
- 155A
- 155B
-155C
-155D
-1 55E
1-5
PART 1-2- ACCESSORIES

Item
TOW-BARS- Less Goose Neck
Sedan XA
ZF
Station Wagon
Utility and Van
Goose Neck - Highlift
Sedan
Station Wagon
ZF
Goose Neck
Painted
Sedan
XA 19B011 A
XA 19B011 B
Station Wagon
Utility and Van
XA 19B011 C
ZF
ZF 19B001 A
Kit - Rear Spring Helper
Part No.
XA 19A009 A
ZF 19A009A
XA 19A009B
XA 19A009C
XA 19B012A
XA 19B012 B
ZF 19B012A
Chromed
XA 19C011 A
XA 19C011 B
XA 19C011 C
ZA 19C011 B
XW5A589A
Vehicle Trailer Electrical Installation Kit

XT 14A461 B
Vehicle Trailer Electrical Connection
Socket Assembly
XR 14B461 A
Vehicle Trailer Electrical Connection Plug
XR 14C461 A
XR 13350A
Flasher Unit - 3 lamp
MIRRORS
Door Mounted- L.H.
Caravan Mirror - Telescopic
Towing- Western Type
Prismatic Day/Night Mirror
Vanity Mirror and Tissue Dispenser
Vanity Mirror- Glove Box Mounted
XA.l8402A
XR18402B
XW 18402 E
CH 18402A
R6-131
XW 17A679A
LIGHTS
Kit. - Head Lamp
- Quartz Halogen
Kit - Head Lamp (Sev. Type)
XA 18207 A
HP 18207 A
- Quartz Halogen - Hi
Performance
Headlamp Guards - Hinged, Chromed
PETROL CAP
Chromed
Locking- G.T.
Locking- Except G.T.
XR 13005 A
XA 9030 A
XA 9030 C
XA 9030 B
Item
Part No.
WHEEL DISCS and COVERS

Deluxe- Except wj- Radial Ply Tyres
XW 18303A
XW 18303B
w/- Radial Ply Tyres
Full Wheel Cover - XA
ARD2DA 1130BA
Full Wheel Cover - ZF
ARD20A 1130AA
Lock - Remote Control Deck Release
-XA
-ZF
Foot Tyre Pump
BUMPER GUARD KIT
Front - XA - Sed. & Wagon
Rear - XA - Sed. Only
Rear - ZF - Sed. Only
FENDER ORNAMENT KIT
BONNET ORNAMENT KIT
MUD FLAP KIT
- Front
- Rear
DOOR EDGE GUARD KIT
- Front & Rear
- Front Only
ROCKER PANEL MOULDING KIT
- XA
ROCKER PANEL& WHEEL ARCH.
Moulding Kit
ELECTRIC CLOCK
CIGAR LIGHTER KIT
Kit - Highnote Hom
Kit - Electronic Car Alarm
liTTER BIN KIT
ROOF RACK
-Except Station Wagon
-Station Wagon
LUGGAGE RACK- Chromed
SKI RACK
DUST REFLECTOR KIT
-Station Wagon
ROPE RAIL KIT
LICENCE PLATE FRAMES
BATTERY CABLE lJOOSTER KIT
-Medium Duty
-Heavy Duty
STEERING WHEEL - RALLY
Kit - Hood Lock Pin
Kit - Front Spoiler
Kit - Rear Spoiler
Kit - Sports Road Wheel
, Kit - Security Lock Nut
(Sports Road Wheel)
XA 5443200A
ZF 5443200 A
N 17052 A
XA 18412 A
XA 18412 B
ZF 18412 A
XA 16Al64A
XA 16607 A
XA 16268 A
XA 16360A
XA 5420910 B
XA 5420910 A
XA 18243 A
XA 18243 B
XA 15000A
XA 15A044A
XA 13801 C
XY 19005 A
XW 19D504A
XR 18320A
XR 18320B
XW 18320C
EH 18320 A
XA 19008 A
XA 19010 A
R6-135
R6-146
R6-147
XA 3600KT
XA 16700KT
XA 17A779KT
R6-68A
XY 1007KT
XY 1A012KT
.~
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
GROUP
2
PAGE
PART
2-1
General Broke Service
PART
2-2 . Brake System
2-9
PART
2-3
2-25
Specifications
2-2
GROUP 2~BRAKES
2-2
PART
2-1
GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE
1 Diagnoiis and Testing .. .... ~ ...... ...... ..... , ......

Preliminaey Tests ... ... .. .... ...... ... ... .. .. .. ...... ......
Road Test ...... ...... ... ... ...... .. .... .... .. .. .. .. .. .... ......
2 Common Adjustments and Repairs ...... ...... ......
Parking Brake Linkage Adjustment
Hydraulic System Bleeding ...... ...... ...... ... ...
II
....
2-2
2-2
2-3
2-3
2- 3
2-3
Secdoll
...
3. Cleaning and Inspection
.. .... ... ... .. .. ,. ~..... 2-4
Disc Brake Trouble Symptoms and Po11ible
2-6
Causes .............................................. ..
Drum Brake Trouble Symptoms and Possible 2-7
Causes ............................................... ..
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PRELIMINARY TESTS
FLUID LEVEL
Always check the fluid level in the
brake master cylinder reservoirs before performing the test procedures.
If necessary, top up the master
cylinder reservoirs to the level indicated on the side of the reservoir,
using only the specified brake fluid,
Motorcraft Brake Fluid.
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTERS
Push the brake pedal down as far
as it will go while the car is standing.
If the car is equipped with power
brakes, the engine should be running
while making this test. If the brake
pedal travels more than half-way
between the released position and
the floor, check the automatic adjusters for being inoperative. To check
adjuster operation, make several
sharp reverse stops (equivalent to 50
pounds pedal pressure) with a forward stop before each. Move the
vehicle forward for a distance of
approximately ten feet; then reverse
for ten feet, apply the brakes sharply
and hold the brake pedal down until
the vehicle is completely stopped. This
will actuate the brake self-adjusters.
If these stops do not bring the brake
pedal travel within specification,
make several additional forward and
reverse stops as outlined above.
If the second series of stops do
not bring the brake pedal travel
within specifications, remove the
brake drums and check the brake
adjusters to make sure $ey are
functioning. Check the brake linings
for wear or damage. R,epair or replace
all worn or damaged parts and nonfunctioning adjusters. Adjust the
brake lining outside diameter to the
approximate inside diameter of the

brake drum.
If all the brake adjusters, brake
drums and linings are functional and
the brake travel is not within specifications, check the pedal linkage for
missing or worn bushings, or loose
attachments. Bleed the brakes.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
If the car is equipped with power
brakes, shut off the engine and ex-
haust all vacuum from the booster
system before performing this tesL
Depress the brake pedal and hold
it in the applied position. If the pedal
gradually falls away under this pressure, the hydraulic system is leaking.
Check all tubing, hoses, and connections for leaks.
If the brake pedal movement feels
spongy, bleed the hydraulic system
to remove air from the lines and
cylinder. See Hydraulic System
Bleeding, Page 2-3. Also, check for
leaks or insufficient fluid.
- POWER BRAKE FUNCTIONAL TEST

With the transmission in neutral,
stop the engine and apply the parking brake. Depress the service brake
pedal several times to exhaust all
vacuum in the system. Then, depress
the pedal and hold it in the applied
position. Start the engine. If the
vacuum system is operating the pedal
will tend to fall away under foot
pressure and less pressure will be
required to hold the pedal in the
applied position. If no action is felt,
the vacuum booster system is not
functioning.
Refer to Table .1, Page 2-6.
For booster removal and installation procedures refer to Page 2-20.
For cleaning and inspection refer

- to Page _2-4.
LOCKED BRAKES
Should one of the brakes be locked
and the car must be moved, open the
brake cylinder bleeder screw long
enough to let out a few drops of
brake fluid. This bleeding opera-
don will release the brakes, but

it will not correct the cause or
the trouble.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT
The three tests listed below are
applicable to all models with either
drum or disc brakes.
1. Tum the ignition switch to
the ON position. If the light on the
brake warning lamp illuminates, the
condition may be caused by:
(a) a defective switch.
(b) grounded switch wires.
(c) the differential valve switch not
having been reset after having
been activated.
The differential valve switch is

spring loaded. and does not have to be
reset, however it must be removed
from the .master cylinder to allow the
differential valve to centralise. The
valve is self-centering only when the
switch is removed. When either system is being bled the switch must be
removed to prevent damage to the
plunger. Except on G.T. vehicles
when the valve must be centralised
by relieving pressure in the appropriate system after bleeding.
2. Tum the ignition switch to the

START position. If the brake
warning lamp does not light, check
the bulb and wiring for defects and
repair or replace as necessary.
PART 2-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE

3. If the brake warning lamp
does not light when a pressure
differential condition exists in the
brake system, -the condition may be
caused by:
(a) burnt out warning lamp.
(b) inoperative warning lamp switch.
(c) open circuit in switch to lamp
wiring.
mph to check for the c:xistence of the

trouble symptoms listed in Table 1 ,
Page 2-6 with the exception of those
resolved in the preliminary tests and
brake chatter. For each of the symptoms encountered, check and eliminate the causes which are also listed in
Table 1. To check for brake chatter
or surge apply the brakes lightly
from approximately 50 mph.
ROAD TEST
The car should be road tested only

if the brakes will safely stop the car.
Apply the brakes at a speed of 25-30
If the preliminary tests show that

the booster is inoperative or if a hard
pedal condition still exists after
eliminating the cause of Hard Pedal
2-3
listed in Table 2, Page 2-7 the trouble

may be caused by vacuum leakage.
Disconnect the vacuum line at the
booster, remove the vacuum manifold and check valve assembly, and
look for a sticking or faulty check
valve. Check all vacuum connections
for leakage or obstruction. Check all
hoses for a leaking or collapsed condition. Repair or replace parts as
necessary.
If the trouble persists, replace the
vacuum booster. The booster is not a
serviceable item and if found defective must be replaced.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
The brake systems of all car models

are designed to permit full stroke of
the master cylinder when the brake
pedal is fully depressed.
No brake pedal clearance adjustment is required or provided for.
With the brake master cylinder outlet
lineS disconnected and the brake
pedal fully depress~ at approximately 50 lbs. force, the brake pedal
assembly should not touch the dash
panel if the brake system is correctly
installed.
PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTALL MODELS
Check the parking brake cables

when the brakes are fully reltased.
If the cables are loose, adjust them
as follows:
1. Fully release the parking brake
handle.
2. Raise the car.
3. Turn the adjustment nut forward against the equalizer until a
moderate drag is felt when turning
rear wheels.
4. Slacken the adjustment until
the rear wheels are just free to rotate.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
When any part of the hydraulic

system has been disconnected for
repair or replacement, air may get
into the lines and cause spongy pedal
action. Bleed the hydraulic system
after it has been properly connected
to be sure that all air is expelled from
the brake cylindel'$ or disc brake
calipers and lines.
The hydraulic system can be bled
manually or with pressure bleeding
equipment.
With disc brakes, more pumping .

of the pedal is required and more
frequent checking of the master
cylinder may be necessary while
bleeding.
On all vehicles except the G.T. the

warning light switch must be removed
from the master cylinder prior to
bleeding the system or after brake
malfunction; if this is not done the
switch maybe damaged.
MANUAL BLEEDING
The primary and secondary (front

and rear) hY.draulic brake systems are
individual -systems and are bled
separately. Bleed the longest line
first on the individual system being
serviced. During the complete
bleeding - operation, DO NOT
allow the reservoir to run dry.
Keep the master cylinder reservoirs
filled with Motorcraft brake -fluid.
Do not mix low temperature brake fluids with the ~ci
fied fluid during the bleeding
operations. Never re-use brake
fluid which has been drained
from the hydraulic system.
1. To bleed the secondary (rear)

brake system, position a suitable
i in. ring spanner (Fig. 1) on the
bleeder fitting on the brake wheel
cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube
to the bleeder fitting. The end of the
tube should fit snugly around the
bleeder fitting.
2. Submerge the free end of the
tube in a container partially filled
with clean brake fluid, and loosen the
bleeder fitting approximately ! of a
turn.
3. Push the brake pedal down
slowly through its full travel. Close
the bleeder fitting, then return the
pedal to the full release position.
Repeat this operation until air
bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.
4. When the fluid is completely
free of air bubbles, close the bleeder
fitting and remove the bleeder tube.
FIG. 1 - Wrench for Bleeding

Brake Hydraulic System
5. Repeat this procedure at the
brake wheel cylinder on the opposite
side. Refill the master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled
and install the master cylinder cover
and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm
type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder
cover. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level
should be filled to within i ln. of
the top of the reservoirs.
6. If the primary (front brake)
system is to be bled, repeat steps 1-5
at the left front brake caliper or
cylinder and ending at the right front
brake caliper or cylinder.
7. On disc brake equipped models
be sure that the front brake pistons
are returned to their normal positions
and that the pad and lining assemblies are properly seated by depressing the brake pedal several times until
normal pedal travel is established.
8~ Replace the warning light
switch.
*G.T. only. Centralize the differential
valve (Page 2-4).
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Bleed the longest lines first. The

bleeder tank should contain enough
new Brake Fluid to complete the
bleeding operation. Use Motorcraft
Brake Fluid.
Do not mix low temperature brake
fluid with the specified brake fluid
during the bleeding operations. Never
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-4
re-use brake fluid that has been
drained from the hydraulic system.
The tank should be charged with
approximately 10 to 30 pounds of air
pressure. Never exceed 50 pounds
pressure.
1. Remove the warning light
switch from the master cylinder
prior to bleeding the system. If this
is not done the switch may be
damaged.
2. Clean all dirt from the master
cylinder reservoir cover.
3. Remove the master cylinder
reservoir cover and rubber gasket,
and fill the master cylinder reservoir
with the specified brake fluid. Install
the pressure bleeder adapter tool to
the master cylinder and attach the
bleeder tank hose to the fitting on
tHe adaptor.
Master cylinder pressure bleeder
adaptor tools can be obtained from
the various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the
instructions of the manufacturer
when installing tlte adaptor.
4. If the rear wheel cylinders, the
secondary brake system, are to be
bled, position a i inch ring spanner
(Fig. 1) on the bleeder fitting on the
left rear brake wheel cylinder.
Attach a bleeder tube to the
bleeder fitting. The end of the tube
should fit snugly around the bleeder
fitting.
5. Open the valve on the bleeder
tank to admit pressurized brake fluid
to the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Submerge the free end of the
tube in a container partially filled
EJ
with clean brake fluid, and loosen the

bleeder fitting.
7. When air bubbles cease to
appear in the fluid at the submerged
end of the bleeder tube, close the
bleeder fitting and remove the tube.
8. Repeat steps 3 to 7 at the right
rear wheel cylinder.
9. If the vehicle is equipped with
disc brakes, repeat steps 4 to 7,
starting at the left front disc caliper
and ending at the right front disc
caliper.
10. If the vehicle contains drumtype front brakes and the primary
(front) brake system is to be bled,
repeat steps 4 to 7 starting at the left
front wheel cylinder ending at the
right front wheel cylinder.
11. When the bleeding operation
is completed, close the bleeder tank
valve and remove the tank hose from
the adaptor fitting.
12. On disc brake equipped vehicles, be sure that the front brake
pistons are returned to their normal
positions and that the shoe and lining
assemblies are properly seated by
depressing the brake pedal several
times until normal pedal travel is
established.
13. Remove the Pressure Bleeder
Adaptor Tool. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs to within i inch of the
top. Install the master cylinder cover
and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm
type gasket is properly positioned in
the master cylinder cover.
14. Replace the warning light
switch in the tntiter cylinder.
*CENTRAUZING THE
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL
VALVE. G.T. ONLY.
After a failure of the primary
(front brake) orsecondary(rearbrake)
system has been repaired and bled,
the dual-brake warning light will
usually continue to be illuminated due
to the pressure differential valve
remaining in the off-center position.
To centralize the pressure differential valve and turn off the warning
light after a repair operation, a pressure differential or unbalance condition must be created in the opposite
brake system from the one that was
repaired or bled last.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the
ACC or ON position. Loosen the differential valve assembly brake tube
nut at the outlet port on the opposite
side of the brake system that was
wheel balanced, repaired and/or bled
last. Depress the brake pedal slowly
to build line pressure until the pressure differential valve is moved to a
centralized position and the brake
warning light goes out; then, immediately tighten the outlet port tube
nut.
2. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs and flU them to
within 1/4 inch of the top with the
specified brake fluid, if necessary.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the
OFF position.
4. Before driving the vehicle, check
the operation of the brakes and be
sure that a firm pedal is obtained.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
DISC BRAKES
1. Remove the wheel and tyre
and the shoe and lining assemblies as
outlined on Page 2-22.
2. On all models make thickness
measurements with a micrometer
across the thinnest section of the shoe
and lining. If the assembly has worn
to a thickness of 0.230 inch Girling
.190 P.B.R. (shoe and lining together)
or 0.030 inch (lining material only)
at any one of three measuring
locations or if there is more than
0.125 taper from end to end or if
lining shows evidence of brake fluid
contamination, replace all (4) shoe
and lining assemblies on both front
wheels.
3. Check the caliper to spindle
attaching bolts torque. Torque them
to specification, if required.
4. To check rotor runout, first
eliminate the wheel bearing end play

by tightening the adjusting nut.
After tightening the nut, check to see
that the rotor can still be rotated.
S. Clamp a dial indicator to the
caliper housing so that the stylus
contacts the rotor at a point approximately 1 inch from the outer edge.
Rotate the rotor and take an indicator
reading. If the reading exceeds 0. 003
inch total lateral runout on the indicator, replace or resurface the disc
brake rotor. The following requirement must be met when resurfacing
disc brake rotors.
The finished braking surface of the
rotor must be flat and parallel within
0. 007 inch; lateral runout must not
exceed 0. 003 inch total indicator
reading, braking surfaces are to be
80/15 micro inches.
On all models the minimum limit-
ing dimension from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face
and the minimum rotor thickness
I'ALCCJM.I'AIRLANE --~
.0.6 MAX
FIG. 2 - Disc Brake Rotor

Service Limits
PART 2.-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE

dimension, must be observed when
removing material from the rotor
braking surfaces. A disc and gauge
bar (R1102-A) is to be used when
checking minimum dimensions (Fig.
2). When the periphery of the disc
contacts the gauge bar the rotor must
be replaced.
When the runout check is finished
be sure to adjust the bearings as outlined in group 3 in order to prevent
bearing failure.
8. Check the rotor for scoring.
Minor scores can be removed with a
fine emery cloth. If the rotor is
~cessively scored, refinish it as outlined in step 5 or replace the rotor,
if required.
7. ViSually check the caliper. If
the caliper housing is leaking it
should be replaced. If a seal is leaking
the caliper must be disassembled and
new seals installed. If a piston is
seized in the bore a new caliper
housing is required.
8. If upon disassembly the caliper
is found to be distorted or damaged
or if the cylinder bores are scored or
excessively worn replace the caliper
assembly.
Check the brake hoses for signs of
cracking, leaks or abrasion. Replace
them if necessary.
front end components, to avoid

bending or damaging the rotor splash
shield on full right or left wheel
turns.
8. Riding of the brake pedal
(common on left foot applications)
should be avoided during vehicle
operations.
.
7. The wheel and tyre must be
removed separately from the brake
rotor, unlike drum brakes where the
wheel, tyrc and drum are removed as
a unit.
8. On Girling floating caliper type
disc brakes whenever the caliper is removed the caliper locating pins and
insulators should be replaced.
9. On floating caliper type disc
brakes the caliper assembly must be
removed from the spindle prior to
removal of the shoe and lining
assemblies.
10. On floating caliper type disc
brakes the calipers must not be
interchanged from one side to the
other. When the caliper is installed
on its proper anchor plate and spindle
the bleeder screw will point to the
rear of the vehicle (Fig. 3). If a
BLEEDER SCREW FACING THIS DIRECTION.
DISC BRAKE SERVICE

PRECAUTIONS
1. Grease or any other foreign

material must be kept off the caliper
assembly, surfaces of the rotor and
external surfaces of the hub during
service operations. Handling of the
rotor and caliper assemblies should
be done in a way to avoid deformation of the brake rotor and nicking or
scratching of brake linings.
2. If a caliper piston is removed
for any reason, the piston seal must
be replaced.
3. During removal and installation of a wheel assembly, exercise
care not to interfere with and damage
the caliper splash shield or the bleeder screw fitting.
4. Front wheel bearing end play
is critical and must be within specifications.
5. Be sure the vehicle is centred
on the hoist before servicing any
1~1-A
2-5
DRUM BRAKES
1. Remove the wheel from the

drum, and remove the drum as outlined on Page 2-15. Wash all
the parts except the brake shoes in a
cleaning fluid and dry with compressed air.
2. Brush the dust from the carrier
plate and interior of the brake drum.
3. Inspect the brake shoes for
excessive lining wear or shoe damage.
If the lining is worn to within
inch of the rivet heads or shoe for .
bonded brakes or if the shoes are
damaged, they must be replaced.
Replace the lining in axle sets. Prior
to replacement of the lining, the
drum diameter should be checked to
determine if oversize linings must be
installed.
4. Check the condition of the
brake shoes, retracting springs, and
drum for signs of overheating. If the
shoes have a slight blue colouring, or
if the springs show a change in free
length, indicating overheating, replacement of the retracting and hold
down springs is necessary. Overheated springs lose their tension and
could cause the new lining to wear
prematurely if they are not replaced.
5. If the car has 30,000 or more
miles of operation on the brake
linings or signs of overheating are
present when relining brakes, the
wheel cylinders should be disassembled and inspected for wear
and dirt in the cylinder. The cylinder
cups and other parts contained in the
overhaul kit should be replaced, thus
avoiding future problems.
8. Inspect all other brake parts
and replace any that are worn or
damaged.
7. Inspect the brake drums and
if necessary, refmish. Refer to Page
221 for refinishing.
FIG. 3- Floating Caliper

Installed (Girling)
caliper is installed on the wrong side
BRAKE BOOSTER
of the vehicle, it is not possible to

bleed the system properly.
11. Do not attempt to clean or
restore oil or grease soaked brake
linings. When contaminated linings
are found, brake linings must be
replaced in complete axle sets.
Check the booster operation as

noted on Page 2,2. Power Brake
Functional Test. If the brake booster
is damaged or defective, replace it
with a new booster. The brake
booster is serviced only as an
assembly.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-6
TAILE 1
DISC BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES

TROUBLE
SYMPTOMS
J
EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL
CORRECTION
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Pad knock-back from extremely

rough road operation or violent
cornering.
Incorrectly adjusted rear brakes.
Air in system, fluid leak, or low
fluid level.
Excessive wheel bearing end play.
Damaged and leaking caliper piston seal.
Incorrectly ground rear brake
lining.
Brake shoe not to flat surface
specification limit.
Check for worn or damaged insulators or damaged stabilizers and

replace as necessary.
Check automatic adjusters.
Booster linlt not connected to

brake pedal.
Brake booster not connected to
firewall.
Detective master cylinder seals.
Bleed system, correct leak and fill

hydraulic system.
Adjust wheel bearings to specifications.
Replace piston seal, fill and bleed
hydraulic system.
Grind or replace rear brake shoe
and lining assemblies.
Replace brake shoe and lining
assembly.
Connect booster link to brake
pedal.
Secure brake booster to firewall.
Overhaul or replace master cylinder.
EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL EFFORT
Brake booster malfunction.

Brake booster check valve leaking.
Vacuum failure.
Brake fluid, oil or grease on brake
linings.
Stuck or seized pistons in both
calipers.
Replace \>rake booster assembly.

Replace check valve.
Check hose and connections.
Replace brake linings. Clean rotor
with alcohol.
Free up pistons and replace piston
seals.
BRAKE ROUGHNESS OR
Brake rotor excessive lateral runout or thickness variation.

Rear brake drum ovality excessive.
CHAnER (PULSATING PEDAL)
Replace brake rotor.

Refinish or replace rear brake
drum.
BRAKES PULL, GRAB, OR
UNEVEN BRAKING
BRAKE RAnLE OR CLICK
GRINDING OR GRATING NOISE
Unequal front tyre pressures.

Incorrect front end alignment.
Brake fluid, oil or grease on brake
linings.
Caliper not properly aligned on
rotor.
Equalize tyre pressures.

Align front end and check toe-in.
Replace brake linings. Clean rotor
with alcohol.
Align and tighten anchor plate
bolts in correct sequence to specified
torque.
Stuck or seized piston one caliper.
Free up or replace piston and

piston seal.
Broken or missing shoe hold-down

spring or clip.
Replace broken or missing parts.
Worn or cut insulators or broken

stabilizers.
Replace broken or damaged parts.
Worn out lining.

Damaged insulator or stabilizer.
Damaged wheel bearings.
Replace lining.
Replace damaged part.
Replace with new bearings.
PART 2-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE
2-7
TABLE
1-(Continued)
DISC BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
HEAVY BRAKE DRAG
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CORRECTION
Stuck or seized piston.

Incomplete brake pedal return.
Improperly. assembled caliper assembly.
Brake booster malfunction.
CALIPER BRAKE FLUID LEAK
Loose front brake hose through

bolt or copper gasket omitted.
Loose bleeder screw.
Caliper housing porosity.
Cut or rolled piston seal.
Foreign substance in caliper piston
seal groove.
Piston scored or damaged.
Free up or replace piston and

piston seal.
Binding linkage-free up.
Loosen caliper slide pins and re
torque with brake pedal -applied Girling only.
Replace booster.
Replace missing copper gasket or
tighten through bolt to specification.
Tighten bleeder screw to specified
torque.
Replace caliper housing.
Replace piston seal.
Clean piston seal groove and replace seal.
Replace piston and seal.
TABLE 2
DRUM BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
POSSIBLE CAUSES
ONE BRAKE DRAGS
Brake line restricted.

Faulty retracting spring.
Loose carrier plate.
Air in hydraulic system.
Distorted or improperly adjusted
brake shoe.
Drum out of round.

Faulty brake cylinder.
Dirty brake fluid.
Insufficient shoe-to-carrier plate
lubrication.
ALL BRAKES. DRAG
.Mechanical resistance at pedal or

shoe.
Dirty brake fluid.
Faulty master cylinder.
Brake line restricted .

brake shoe.
HARD PEDAL
Mechanical resistance at pedal or

shoes.
Lining glazed or worn.

brake shoe.
SPONGY PEDAL
Leaks or insufficient fluid.
CAR PULLS TO ONE SIDE

brake shoe.
Improper tyre pressure.

Faulty retracting spring.
Drum out of round.
Oil or grease on lining.
Self adjusters not operating.
ONE WHEEL LOCKS

brake shoe.

Tyre tread worn.
BRAKES CHATTER
Drum out of round.

Poor lining to drum contact.

Loose lining.
Loose front suspension.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-8
TABLE 2 -(Continued)
DRUM BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL
POSSIBLE CAUSES

Air hydraulic system.
Cracked drum.
PEDAL GRADUALLY GOES

brake shoe.
Self adjusters not operating.
Improper tyre pressure.

Dirty brake fluid.
TO FLOOR
BRAKES UNEVEN
SHOE CLICK AFTER RELEASE

lubrication.
NOISY OR GRABBING BRAKES

brake shoe.
Dirt on drum-lining surface.
lubrication.
BRAKES DO NOT APPLY

Dirty brake fluid.
BRAKES FOR THE RESPECTIVE

SYSTEM DO NOT APPLY
One section dual brake system is

inoperative.
WARNING LIGHT STAYS LIT
. One s.ection dual brake system is

moperattve.
Warning lamp switch is grounded.
PEDAL GRADUALLY MOVES

TOWARD FLOOR OR DASH
PANEL
WARNING LAMP DOES NOT
LIGHT
Warning lamp is burned out.

Wiring to warning lamp has open
circuit.
Threads left by drum turiling tool

pulls shoe sideways.

Differential pressure valve not

centred.
Wiring to warning lamp switch is
grounded.
Warning lamp switch has an open

circuit.
29
PART
BRAKE SYSTEM
22
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation ...... ...... ...... . .... ...... 2-9
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ...... ....... .. . .... 2-14
Section
3 Removal and Installation
4 Major Repair Operations .......... .
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Disc brakes are available as optional equipment for the front wheels
on Falcon models but are standard on
Fairmont, Falcon GT, Fairlane 500
Fairlane Custom and all 8 cylinder
and 250 2V 6 cylinder vehicles. The
dual master cylinder equipped hydraulic brake system employs single
anchor, internal expanding and selfadjusting drum brake assemblies on
the rear wheels of vehicles with disc
brakes, and on the front and rear
wheels of all others.
A vacuum booster is used with the
power disc brake system.
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER BRAKE

SYSTEM
The dual master cylinder brake
system has been incorporated in all
models to provide incrersed safety.
The system consists of a dual master
cylinder which incorporates a pressure differential valve assembly and
a switch (Fig. 6). The switch on
the differential valve activates a dualbrake warning light, located on the
instrument panel.
On both disc and drum brake
systems two front brake tubes are
fitted to the two primary brake outlet
ports (rear) on the master cylinder.
The single tube to the rear brakes is
fitted to the secondary outlet port
(front).
GTONLY.
A
combination
pressure
differential valve warning lamp,
switch and pressure control valve
assembly (proportioning valve) is
fitted on the suspension tower
immediately below the master
cylinder (Fig. 4).
The original differential pressure
valve, which is integral with the
master cylinder is retained to ensure
the integrity of the dual system;
however, the warning lamp switch is
deleted from the master cylinder and
a sealing plug fitted in its place.
Should
the
original
pressure
differential valve be left out of the
NORIII .".L POSITION

CENTEREO
FIG. 4 -Pressure Differentiafand Pressure

Control Valve and Brake Warning Light
Switch - G T Only.
FIG.5
B.A.I.
FIG. 6
Differential Valve P.B.R.- Typical.
Page
2-15
2-21
master cylinder, the dual line &afety

feature will be destroyed. as both
systems will be pressurised via a
common chamber.
The
pressure
control
(proportioning) valve (Fig. 4) is
locat~d in the rear system only. It
provides balanced braking action
between the front (disc) and rear
{drum) brakes. The proportioning
valve reduces pressure at the rear
brakes, since equivalent amounts of
hydraulic pressure would cause more
braking by the self energiSing rear
brakes than the non energising front
disc brakes.
DISC BRAKE
The disc brake .consists of a ventilated rotor and caliper assembly. The
caliper used on all models is a single
piston floating caliper (Fig. 7), and
may be of PBR or Girling design.
FLOATING CALIPER GIRLING
The caliper assembly is secured to
the spindle with two safety wired
attaching bolts. The upper attaching
bolt is parallel with the centreline of
the vehicle, and the lower bolt is
transverse to the car centreline.
(Fig. 3/8).
The upper ends of the flexible steel
stabilizer are attached to the caliper
housing ears with two caliper locating
pins.
2-10
GROUP 2-BRAKES
vertical inner surfaces of these

anchor plate ledges.
A single hydraulic piston is fitted
into a bore in the inner portion of the
caliper housing. (Fig. 12). A square
section seal is fitted into an annular
groove in the caliper bore (refer Figs.
1213} and a rubber boot is utilized to
.... " seal the piston and caliper bore
against road splash contamination. A
feed port is provided in the caliper
housing below the piston. A bleed
screw is located in the caliper housing
over the piston to bleed air from the
hydraulic system. It is not necessary
to remove the front wheels to bleed
the brakes.
The outer brake shoe and lining
assembly is longer than the inner
FIG. 7- Disc Brake Assemblyassembly, and the shoe and lining
Floating Caliper- Girling
assemblies are not interchangeable
Shown.
(Fig. 14}.
The lower ends of the stabilizer
Two lanced abutments on the
are bolted directly to the lower inouter brake shoe fit into the slots on
board surface of the anchor plate.
the outboard legs of the caliper
This permits transverse movement of
housing. The outer brake shoe and
the caliper assembly (Fig. 8).
.
lining assembly is also held in a fixed
The caliper housing is a single
position by brake shoe hold-down
piece casting positioned between two
pins which extend through the brake
ears on the top of the anchor plate.
shoe and caliper housing. The pins
The inner brake shoe rests on the top
are secured.at the outer surface of the
of two anchor plate ledges located at
caliper housing with two spring clips.
each end of the anchor plate. Two
spring clips are used to maintain the
A splash shield is bolted to the
shoe in position. Brake shoe endwise
spindle to protect the brake rotor
movement is restricted by the ends
against road splash contamination.
of the brake shoe contacting the
FLOATING CALIPER P.B.R.
The single piston hydraulic disc

brake caliper is constructed from a
single casting which contains one large
piston bore in the inboard section
of the casting. (Inboard refers to the
side of the casting which is nearest the
centreline of the car when the caliper
is mounted}.
The fluid inlet hole and bleeder
valve hole' are machined into the inboard section of the caliper and connect directly to the piston bore. The
cylinder contains a piston and seal.
The seal has a square section, and
is located in a groove which is
machined in the cylinder bore. It
fits around the outside diameter of
the piston to pr_ovide a hydraulic seal
between the piston and the cylinder
wall.
The top of the piston is machined
to accept a sealing dust boot. The
outside diameter of the boot is pressed
into a recess in the top of the cy
Iinder bore. The inside diameter of
the boot fits into the groove which
is machined in the piston. The piston
is steel, precision ground and chrome
plated giving it a very hard and dura
ble surface. The use of abrasives or
any attempt to re-machine the piston
will destroy the plating.
tO
..__ _ I'USH - TWISn OUTIOAIID

lnBPRINCI WITH IIIAICI H0S1
MUST II
CLEAR
Of STHIIING
STOP
ON
-DU AIIM
I VIEW
FIG. 8- Caliper Mounting Bolts
A, .
P11Y1NT
2-11
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM

P.B.R. FLOATING HEAD CALIPER -FIG. 9
'---.J/0 (l) I
liD
ENSURE THAT SEAL RETAINER IS IN CORRECT POSITION WITH

SERRATED SIDE OF RETAINER FITTED INSIDE OF SEAL.
Shoe wear is automatically com

pensated for by the sliding caliper
feature. The caliper floats through
two guide pins located inside the
anchor bracket sleeves.
Each caliper contains two shoe and
pad assemblies. They are constructed
of a stamped metal shoe with the
lining integrally moulded to the shoe.
Shoe and pad _assemblies can be removed and replaced only by removing the caliper assembly from its
mounting on the vehicle. The shoes
are not interchangeable.
c::AUPER OPERATION
When the brake pedal is applied,
brake fluid is displaced into the
cylinder moving the piston outward.
This action forces the inner shoe and
iining assembly against the rotor.
The resultant reaction forces the
caliper housing and outboard shoe
and lining assembly inward against
the rotor. Braking torque is tran!lferred from the outer brake shoe
abutments through the caliper housing into the anchor plate. Braking
torque from the inner brake shoe is
taken ~y into the anchor plate.
When the brake pedal is released,
the seal retracts the piston into the
cylinder and the caliper housing
slides outward releasing the brake.
ROTOR
The cast iron disc is of the ventilated rotor-type incorporating forty
fins and is attached to, and rotates
with the wheel hub. A splash shield
bolted to the spindle is used primarily to prevent road contaminants
from contacting the inboard rotor
and lining surfaces. The wheel provides protection for the outboard
surface of the rotor.
DRUM BRAKE
The drum brake system employs
single anchor, internal expanding and
self adjusting brake assemblies.
P.B.R. CALIPER ASSEMBLED- FIG. 10.
2-12
GROUP 2-BRAKES
CALIPER A~'Y . . , 28 118 R.H.

28119 L.H.
INSULATOR
,~
SEAL
28~29928115
CLIP
~
2207
2BI64 -~:~~
BOOT
ANCHOR PLATE
. ,
.
2B293 L.H.
""'
2B292 R.H.
.
~.....,-0
_..
3105-R.H.
3106L.H.
&...._
SHOE
2019
28160
ROTOR SPLASH SHIEL

2Koo.IR.H.
2K005L.H.
1202
ROTOR
1102..1....---'
FIG. 11- Disc Brake- Disassembled- Girling illustrated.
FIG. 12- Floating Caliper AssemblySectional View

PISTON SEAL
DISTORTED
PISTON
PISTON SEAL RELAXED
CALIPER HOUSING
BRAKES APPLIED
FIG. 13- Function of Piston Seal
BRAKES RELEASED
The self adjusting brake mechanism consists of a cable, cable guide,

adjusting lever, adjusting screw assembly and adjuster spring (Fig. 1S).
The cable is hooked over the anchor
pin at the top and is connected to the
lever at the bottom. The cable is
routed along the web of. the secondary brake shoe by means of the
cable guide.
The adjuster spring is hooked to
the primary brake shoe and to the
lever. The automatic adjuster operates only when the brakes are applied
while the vehicle is moving rearward
and only when the secondary shoe is
free to move toward the drum
beyond a predetermined point.
With the car moving rearward ~d
the brakes applied, the wrap-around
action of i:he shoes following the
drum forces the upper end of the
primary shoe against the anchor pin.
The action of the wheel cylinder
moves the upper end of the secondary shoe away from the anchor pin.
The movement of the secondary shoe
causes the cable to pull the adjusting
lever upward and against the end of a
tooth on the adjusting screw starwheel. The upward travel of the lever
increases as lining wear increases.
When the lever can move upward far
eno1;gh it passes over the end of the
tooth and engages the tooth. When
the brakes are released, the adjusting
spring pulls the lever downward
causing the star-wheel to turn and
expand the shoes. The star-wheel is
2-13

turned one tooth at a time as the
linings progressively wear.
OUTER SHOE
RETAINING CLIPS
2066
INNER BRAKE
SHOE ANO LINING
ASSEMBLY -2019
OUTER BRAKE
SHOE AND LINING
ASSEMBLY-2018
With the car moving forward and

the brakes applied, the secondary
shoe is against the anchor pin and the
primary sltoe is moved toward the
drum. Therefore, the adjuster does
not operate.
The rear brake assembly is basi

cally the same as the front brake.
The conventional parking brake
lever, link and spring are used in
the rear brake.
\.1
FIG. 14- ShOe and Lining

Assemblies- Girling Caliper.
The anchor pin on all brakes are

fixed and are nonadjustable.
BRAKE BOOSTER SYSTEM
This dual diaphragm-type brake

booster is a self-contained vacuumhydraulic braking unit mounted on
the engine . side of the dash panel.
The brake booster is of the
vacuum suspended type which uti
lizes engine intake manifold vacuum
and atmospheric pressure for its
power.
The booster unit is to be exchanged
when it is inspected, checked and
found to be defective.
OPERATION -
BOOSTER
The Booster Servo Unit is designed

to assist the effort applied by the
driver's foot on the brake pedal. It
All Models
Except Taxi
SECONDARY SHOE
fRONT IRAKE
PARKING BRAKE CABlE AND
REAR IRAKE
BRAKE
YliNOER
Taxi
PRIMA Y BRAKE
lEAR IRAIII
FIG. 15- Self Adjusting Brake
-fRONT Of C A l -
fRONT IRAIIE
SHOE AND LINING
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-14
FIG. 16- Brake Booster.
uses the vacuum created in the

engine inlet manifold to boost force
applied at the master cylinder push
rod in an exact and controlled
manner.
The assembly is mounted between
the brake pedal and the master
cylinder, with the push rod from the
rear of the unit connected to the
brake pedal, and a push rod from the
front of the unit abuts the master
cylinder piston.
The force which assists the pedal
EJ
effort is obtained by admitting

atmospheric pressure to one side of
both diaphragms which are suspended
in a vacuum. The difference in pressure moves the diaphragms and this
movement is used in a controlled
manner to augment the driver's pedal
effort.
In the case of a vacuum failure, the
valve and rod assembly of the servo
and the master cylinder push rod act
as a single push rod.The brakes will, .
therefore, work in the conventional
manner, but more effort will be

required on the brake pedal.
PARKING BRAKE
An independent hand operated

parking brake control actuates the
rear wheel brake shoes through a
cable linkage, the operating cable is
routed from the parking brake control assembly to the equalizer. The
rear brake cables connect the equalizer assembly to the parking brake
lever at each rear secondary shoe.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS

- EXCEPT TA:XI
The car should be in a raised position with the wheels off the floor.
The hydraulic service brakes are
self-adjusting and require a manual
adjustment only after the brake
shoes have been relined, replaced, or
when the length of the adjusting
screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
The brake drums should be at
normal room temperature when adjusting the brake shoes. If the shoes
are adjusted when the drums are hot
and expanded, the shoes may drag

when the . drums are cool and contracted.
1. After the shoes have been installed or the adjusting screw has
been turned, install the drum. Be
sure that all excess grease, oil, and
other foreign material are wiped off
the backing plate and drum.
Before installing the brake drum
on the front wheel spindle, wipe the
spindle completely free of grease.
Install the drum carefully so that the
grease seal retainers within the hub
will not be damaged.
2. Remove the adjusting hole
cover from the backing plate. Working from the backing plate side, turn
the adjusting screw upward to expand
the shoes (Fig. 17). Expand the shoes
until a drag is felt when the drum is
rotated.
3. Remove the drum. Mark thetooth on the star-wheel where the
adjusting lever contacts it. While
holding the adjusting lever out of engagement with the adjusting screw,
back off the adjusting screw i of a
turn with the fingers. If finger movement will not tum the screw, free it
up; otherwise, the self-adjusting lever
will not turn the screw. Lubricate the

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
-TAXI
The brakes should be adjusted
. when the drums are at normal room
temperature. If the shoes are adjusted
when the drums are hot, dragging
brakes may result when the drums
cool.
FIG. 17- Expanding
Brake Shoes
screw with a thin uniform coating of
Moly grease.
Any other adjustment procedure may cause damage to the

adjusting screw with consequent
self-adjuster problems.
4. Apply a small quantity of hightemperature grease to the points
where the shoes contact the backing
plate, being careful not to get the
lubricant on the linings. Install the
drum.
On front wheels, install the wheel
outer bearing, washer, and adjusting
nut, then adjust the wheel bearings
as outlined in Group 3.
5. Install the wheel on the drum
and tighten the mounting nuts to
specification.
6. Install the adjusting hole cover
on the brake backing plate.
7. When adjusting the rear brake
shoes, check the parking brake cables
for proper adjustment. Make sure
that the equalizer lever operates
freely.
8. After the brake shoes have
been properly adjusted, check the
operation of the brakes.
EJ
1. Raise the car until the wheels

clear the floor. If the car is on a
frame contact hoist, disconnect the
parking brake cables to prevent their
tightening when the rear axle and
springs sag.
2. Remove the adjusting hole
cover from the bottom of the brake
carrier plate, and turn the adjusting
screw ,,..ig. 17} until a' slight drag on
the wheel is noted.
3. Back off the adjustment just
enough to allow the wheel to rotate
freely. If it fails to rotate freely, the
wheel and drum should be removed
and the dust blown off the brake
shoes and carrier plate. Apply a light
coating of Lubricant to the brake
shoe-to-plate contact points. Install
the wheel and drum, and adjust the
brake again. Install the adjusting
hole cover.
4. Adjust the remaining brakes.
5. If necessary, connect and adjust the parking brake cables (see
Page 2-3).
6. When all brake shoes have
been adjusted, check the operation
of the brakes.
HYDRAULIC LINE REPAIR

Steel tubing ' is used throughout
the brake system with the exception
of the flexible hoses at the front
wheels and at the rear axle housing
brake tube connection.
Always bleed the applicable

primary or secondary brake system after primary or secondary
2-15
brake system hose or line replacement. (See Page 2-3).
BRAKE TUBE REPLACEMENT

If a section of the brake tubing becomes damaged, the entire section
should be replaced with tubing of the
same type, size, shape and length .
Copper tubing should not be used in a
hydraulic system. When bending
brake tubing to fit underbody or rear
axle contours, be careful not to kink
or crack the tube.
All brake tubing should be double
flared properly to provide good leakproof connections. Clean the brake
tubing by flushing with clean brake
fluid before installation .
When connecting a tube to a hose,
t~be connector, or brake cylinder,
t1ghten the tube fitting nut to specified
torque with Milbar tool 1112-144 or
equivalent.
BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT

A flexible brake hose should be replaced if it shows signs of softening,
cracking, or other damage.
When installing a new front brake
hose, position the hose to avoid contact with other chassis parts. Place a
new copper gasket over the hose fitting and thread the hose" assembly into
the front wheel cylinder. Engage the
opposite end of the hose to the bracket on the frame . Install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the
tube to the hose with the tube fitting
nut .
A rear brake hose should be installed so that it does not touch the
muffler outlet pipe or shock absorber.
Thread the hose into the rear brake
tube connector. Engage the front end
of the hose to the bracket on the
frame. Install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the tube to
the h9se with the tu~ fitting nut.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FRONT BRAKE DRUM

REMOVAL
I. Raise the vehicle until the wheel
and tire clear the floor. Remove the
wheel cover or hub cap, and remove
the wheel and tire frotn the drum.
l. Remove the grease cap from the
hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,
adjusting nut, and flat washer from
the spindle. Remove the outer bearing
cone and roller assembly.
3. Pull the drum off the wheel
spindle.
4. If the drum will not come off,

pry the rubber cover from the brake
backing plate. Insert a narrow screwdriver through the slot and disengage
the adjusting lever from the adjusting
screw. While holding the adjusting
lever away from the scrt:w, back off
the adjusting screw wj.th the brake adjusting tool (Fig. 18}. Be very careful
not to burr, chip, or damage the
notches in the adjusting screw; otherwise the self-adjusting mechanism will
not function properly.
INSTALLATION
I. If the drum is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the
new drum with carburetor degreaser.
Then, use sandpaper to insure that no
residue remains. Wipe the drum with
a cloth soaked with denatured alcohol.
Install new bearings and grease seal.
Pack the wheel bearings, install the
inner bearing cone and roller assembly
in the inner cup, and install the new
grease seal. (see Group 3).
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-16
2. Adjust the brakes and install the
drum
assembly
as
outlined
under
Brake Shoe Adjustments on Page 2-14.

3. Install the outer wheel bearing,
washer and adjusting nut.
4. A<!just the wheel be-.uing as outlined Group 3, then install the
grease cap. Install the wheel and hub
cap.
3. Remove the shoe hold-down

springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot
nut, socket and automatic adjustment
parts.
4. On rear brakes, remove the
parking brake link and spring. Disconnect the parking brake. cable from
the parking brake lever.
5. After removing the rear brdke
secondary shoe, disassemble the park
ing brake lever from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring
w11sher.
REAR BRAKE DRUM
INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
l. Before installing the rear brake

shoes, assemble the parking brake
lever to the secondary shoe and secure
with the spring washer and retaining
clip.
l. Apply a light coating of hightemperature grease at the points
where the brake shoes contact the
backing plate.
3. Position the brake shoes on the
backing plate and secure the assembly
with the hold down springs. On the
rear brake, install the parking brake
link and spring, back off the parking
l. Raise the vehicle so that the tire

is clear of the floor .
l. Remove the hub cap and wheel.
Remove the drum from the axle

flange. If the dtum will not come off,
pry the rubber cover from the backing
plate. Insert a narrow screwdriver
through the hole in the backing plate,
and disengage the adjusting lever from
the adjusting screw. While holding the
adjusting lever away from the adjusting screw, back off the adjusting
screw with the brake adjusting tool
(Fig. 18). Be very careful not to burr,
chip, or damage the notches in the
adjusting screw; otherwise, the selfadjusting mechanism will not
function properly.
1. Remove the protective coating
from a new drum with carburetor degreaser; then sand lightly and wipe
with a cloth soaked with denatured alcohol.
l. Adjust the brakes as outlined
ADJUSnNG LEVER
FIG. 21- Adjusting Screw

and Lever Identification
IS).
under Brake Shoe Adjustments on

Page 2-14. Place the drum over the
brake assembly and into position.
H1590A
FIG. 18 - .Backing Off Brake

Adjustment
BRAKE SHOES AND

ADJUSTING SCREW DRUM BRAKES
REMOVAL
1. With the wheel and drum removed install a clamp over the ends of
the brake cylinder as shown jn Fig.
19.
l. Remove the secondary shoe to
anchor spring with the tool shown in
Fig. 19. With the same tool remove
the primary shoe to anchor spring and
unhook the cable eye from the anchor
oin.
Installation- Typical
brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking
brake lever .
4. Place the cable eye over the anchor pin with the crimped side toward
the backing plate.
5. Install the primary shoe to anchor spring
6. Install the cable guide on the
secondary shoe web with the flanged
hole fitted into the hole in the secondary shoe web. Thread the cable
around the cable guide groove (Fig.
INSTALLATION
3. Install the wheel on the axle

shaft flange studs against the drum,
and tighten the attaching nuts to
specifications.
FIG. 20 - Retracting Spring
FIG. 19- Retracting Spring

Removal- Typical
It is imperative that the cable be

p'ositioned in this groove and not between the guide and the shoe web.
7. Install the secondary shoe to anchor spring with the tool shown in
Fig. 20.
Be certain that the cable eye is not
cocked or binding on the anchor pin
when installed. All parts should be flat
on the anchor pin. Remove the brake
cylinder clamp.
8. Apply high-temperature grease
to the threads and the socket end of
the adjusting screw .
Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the
threads and then back off 1/2 turn.
Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screw assemblies from one side
of the ,ehicle to the other would cause
the brake shoes to retract rather than
expand each time the automatic adjusting mechanism operated. To pre-
2-17

vent installation on the wrong side of
the vehicle, the socket end of the adjusting screw is stamped with an R or
L. (Fig. 21 ). The adjusting pivot nuts
can be distinguished by the number of
grooves machined around the body of
the nut. Two grooves on the nut indicate a .right thread: one groove indi. cates a left thread.
9. Place the adjusting socket on
the screw and install this assembly between the shoe ends with the adjusting
screw toothed wheel nearest the secondary shoe.
10. Hook the cable hook into the
hole in the adjusting lever. The adjusting levers are stamped with an R or L
to indicate their installation on right
or left brake as!\Cmbly (Fig. 21).
II. Position the hooked end of the
;tdjuster spring completely into the
large hole in the primary shoe web.
The last coil of the spring should be at
the edge of the hole . Connect the loop
end of the spring to the adjuster lever
hole.
12. Pull the adjuster lever, cable
and automatic adjuster spring down
and toward the rear to engage the
pivot hook in the large hole in the secondary shoe web (Fig. 15).
13. After installation, check the action of the adjuster by pulling the section of the cable between the cable
guide and the anchor pin toward the
secondary shoe web far enough to lift
the lever past a tooth on the adjusting
screw wheel. The lever should snap
into position behind the next tooth,
and release of the cable should cause
the adjuster spring to return the lever
to its original position. This return action of the lever will turn the adjusting
screw one tooth.
If pulling the cable does not produce the action described, or if the
lever action is sluggish instead of positive and sharp, check the position of
the lever on the adjusting screw
toothed wheel. With the brake in a
vertical position (anchor at the top),
the lever should contact the adjusting
wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32
inch) above the centerline of the
screw. If the contact point is below
this centerline, the lever will not lock
on the teeth in the adjusting screw
wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.
To determine the cause of this condition :
a. Check the cable end fittings. The
cable should completely fill or extend
slightly beyond the crimped section of
the fittings. If it does not meet this
specification, possible damage is indicated and the cable assembly should
be replaced.
b. The cable length should measure 9! inches from the end of the
cable anchor to the end of the cable
hook.
c. Check the cable guide for damage. The cable groove should be parallel to the shoe web, and the body of
the guide should' lie flat against the
web. Replace the guide if it shows
damage.
d. Check the pivot hook on the
lever. The hook surfaces should be
square with the body of the lever for
proper pivoting. Replace the lever if
the hook shows damage.
e. See that the adjusting screw
socket is properly seated in the notch
in the shoe web.
WHEEL CYLINDER
DRUM BRAKE
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wheel and the drum.
Z. Remove the brake shoe assemblies, following procedures outlined in
this section.
3. Disconnect the brake line from
the brake cylinder .
On a vehicle with a vacuum brake
booster, be sure the engine is stopped
and there is no vacuum in the booster
system before disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
To disconnect the hose at a front
cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that
connects the opposite end of the hose
to the brake tube at a bracket on the
frame. Remove the horseshoe-type retaining clip from the hose and bracket, disengage the hose from the bracket, then unscrew the entire hose assembly from the front wheel cylinder.
At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tube
fitting that connects the tube to the
cylinder. Do not pull the metal
tube away from the cylinder.
Pulling the tube out of the cylinder connection. will bend the
metal tube and make installation

difficult. The tube will separate
from the cylinder when the cylinder
is removed from the backing plate.
4. Remove the wheel cylinder
attaching bolts and lock washers and
remove the cylinder.
INSTALLATION
Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic
line to remove any foreign matter before making connections.
1. To install a front wheel cylinder, position the cylinder to the
backing plate. Install the two lock
washers and attaching bolts. Torque
them to specifications.
2. Install a new copper gasket
over the hose fitting. Thread the hose
into the cylinder and tighten it to
specified torque.
3. Engage the opposite end of the
hose to the bracket on the frame.
Install the horseshoe-type retaining
clip, and connect the brake tube to
the hose with the tube fitting nut.
Tighten the nut to specification.
4. To install a rear wheel cylinder,
place the rear wheel cylinder into
position. Enter the tubing into the
cylinder, and start the tube fitting
nut into the threads of the cylinder.
S. Secure the cylinder to the
backing plate by installing the
attaching bolts and lock washers.
6. Tighten the tube fitting nut to
specification.
7. Install the shoes and adjuster
assemblies, and adjust the shoes as
outlined iD. this section.
8. Adjust the brake shoes, Page
2-14 and install the brake drums and
wheels. Bleed the brake system as
outlined on Page 2-3.
WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR DRUM BRAKE

Wheel cylinders should not be disassembled unless they are leaking or
unless new cups and boots are to be
BOOT
CYLINDER
FIG. 22- Brake Wheel Cylinder- Typical
~~
PISTON
H138SB
2-18
installed. It is not necessary to remove the brake cylinder from the
backing plate to disassemble, inspect,
or hone and overhaul the cylinder.
Removal is necessary only when the
cylinder is damaged or scored beyond
repair.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the links and the
rubber boots from the ends of the
brake cylinder. Remove the pistons,
cups, and return spring from the
cylinder bore (Fig. 22).
2. Remove the bleeder screw
from the cylinder.
INSPECTION
l. Wash all parts in clean brake
fluid. Dry with compressed air.
2. Replace scored pistons. Always replace the rubber cups and
dust boots.
3. Inspect the cylinder bore for
score marks or rust. If either condition is present the cylinder bore inust
be honed. However, the cylinder
should not be honed more than
0. 003 inch beyond its original
diameter.
4. Check the bleeder hole to be
sure that it is open.
ASSEMBLY
l. Apply a light coating of heavyduty brake fluid to all internal parts.

2. Thread the bleeder screw into
the cylinder and tighten securely.
3. Insert the return spring, cups,
and pistons into their respective positions in the cylinder bore (Fig. 22).
4. Replace the boots and links.
Assemble the brake shoes and drums
as previously described.
5. Bleed the brakes and refit ,the
wheels.
BRAKE BACKING PLATE DRUM BRAKE
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wheel and brake
drum. Disconnect the brake line from
the brake cylinder.
Z. Remove the brake shoe and adjuster assemblies and tbe wheel cyhnder as outlined in this section. On the
rear wheels, disconnect the parking
brake lever from the cable.
3. If the rear backing plate is being

replaced, remove the axle shaft from
the applicable rear axle as outlined
in Group 4, disengage parking brake
cable retainer from ba-cking plate.
Remove the backing plate and gasket.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
If the front backing plate is being
replaced, remove the bolts and nuts
that secure the backing plate to the
front wheel spindle and remove the
plate and gasket.
INSTALLATION
If a rear backing plate is to be replaced, position a new rear backing
plate and gasket on the attaching
bolts in the axle housing flange. Insert
parking brak.e cable into backing plate
and secure retaining fingers. Install
the rear axle shaft
Refer to Group 4 for the proper
installation procedure.
I. If the front brake backing plate
is to be replaced, position a new front
backing plate and gasket to the wheel
spindle and install the attaching bolts
and nuts.
z. Install the wheel cylinder and
connect the brake line as outlined in
this section.
3. Install the brake shoe and adjuster assemblies as outlined in this
section. On a rear brake, connect the
parking bralte cable to the lever.
4. Adjust the brakes, Page 2-14.
Install the brake drum and wheel.
Bleed the brakes as outlined on
Page 2-3.
FRONT WHEEL HUB AND
ROTOR ASSEMBLY DISC BRAKES
REMOVAL
l. Remove the wheel and tyre
from the hub. Be careful to avoid
damage or interference with the
bleeder screw fitting.
Z. Remove the caliper assembly
from the spindle and the rotor. If the
caliper does not require servicing, it is
not necessary to disconnect the brake
hose or remove the caliper from the
vehicle. Position the caliper out of the
way, and S\!pport it with a wire to
avoid damaging the caliper or stretching the hose. Insert a clean cardboard
spacer between the linings to prevent
the piston from coming out of the cylinder bore while the caliper is removed.
Handle the rotor and caliper assemblies in such a way as to avoid deformation of the rotor and nicking,
scratching or contamination of the
brake linings.
J. Remove the grease cap from the
the spindle. Remove the outer bearing
cone and roller assembly.
4. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.
INSTALLATION
l. If the rotor is being replaced,
remove the protective coating from
the new rotor with carburetor degreaser. Pack a new set of bearings
with specified grease (Refer Group
3) and install the inner bearing
cone and toller assembly in the inner
cup. Pack grease lightly between the
lips of a new grease seal and install
the seal.
If the original roto~ is being installed, make sure that the hub is
clean, that the inner bearing and
grease seal are lubricated and in good
condition, and that the rotor braking
surfaces are clean.
Z. Install the hub and rotor assembly on the spindle.
3. Lubricate and install the outer
wheel bearing, washer and adjusting
nut.
4. Adjust the wheel bearings to
specification, and then install the nut
lock, cotter pin, and grease cap. The
wheel bearing adjustment is especially
Important with disc brakes.
5. Mount the caliper assembly on
the spindle following the Disc Brake
Caliper Assembly Installation procedure in this section.
DISC BRAKE ROTOR
SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL
1. Remove the caliper and the hub
and rotor assembly as outlined under
Removal in the foregoing procedure
(it is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections).
z. Remove the three bolts that attach the splash shield to the spindle:
and remove the shield .
3. Remove and discard the splash
shield to spindle gasket.
INSTALLATION
I. Install a new splash shield to
spindle gasket.
z. If the shield is bent, straighten it
out before installation. Position the
shield to the mounting bracket, install
the attaching bolts, nuts and torque
them to specification.
J. Install the hub and rotor assembly and the caliper as outlined under
Installation in the foregoing procedure.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSEMBLY
GIRLING
REMOVAL
assemblies from the hub. Use care
to avoid damage or interference
with the bleeder screw fitting
2-19

duriq removal.
2.. Remove about 2/3 of the total
brake fluid capacity from the master cylinder ~eservoir which serves
the disc brakes. Do not drain the
reservoirs completely.
3. Disconnect the brake hose
from the caliper. Cap the hose fitting
to prevent brake system contamination and loss of brake fluid from the
master cylinder. Mark the left and
right caliper assemblies with chalk
prior to removal from the vehicle.
. 4. Remove the caliper locating
pms and lower stabilizer attaching
bolts and discard the stabilizer. Refer
to Fig. 8.
Lift the caliper from the

anchor plate Fig. 11.
INSTALLATION
S. Position the caliper assembly

over the rotor with the outer brake
shoe against the rotor braking surface
during installation on the anchor
plate to prevent pinching the piston
boot between the inner brake shoe
an~ the piston. Verify that the correct
caliper 1S assembled on the correct
anchor plate as marked during dis. assembly.
8. Position the new stabilizer.
Apply methylated spirits on the
locating pins and attach the stabilizer
to the caliper. Be sure the locating
pins ~ free of on, grease and
dirt. T1ghten , the caliper locating
pins finger tight.
Warning: When ever the caliper
is removed, it is mandatory that
a new stabilizer, stabilizer locatiq pins and insulator bushes be

fitted.
7. Install the stabilizer to anchor
plate attaching screws. Finger tight.
8. Remove the cap from the
brake hose fitting. Install a new
copper washer on each side of the
hose fitting and install the brake hose
on the caliper. Tighten the clutching
screw to 27-32 lbs. ft. torque.
t. Bleed the brake system.
CAUTION: DURING BLEEDING OPERATIONS THE BRAKE
WARNING LIGHT SWITCH
MUST BE REMOVED FROM
THE MASTER CYLINDER TO
AVOID DAMAGE TO THE
SWITCH.
Replace the w&ming light switch
on completion of bleeding o~tion.
10. Fill the master cylmder as
required to within one quarter inch
of the top of the reservoir.
11. With moderate pressure applied to the brake pedal torque the
stabilizer attaching screws to 8-lllb.
ft. and the caliper locating pins to

25-35 lb. ft.
12. Install the wheel and tyre
assembly and tighten the wheel nuts
to 70-115lbs. ft. torque.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL P.B.R.
(1) Remove about 2/3 of the total

brake fluid capacity from the master cylinder reservoir which serves
the disc brakes. Do not drain the
reservoirs completely.
(2) With vehicle raised evenly on a
hoist or jackstands, remove the front
wheelsNote
If more than one brake requires
service, work on only one brake at a
time, however, shoe and lining assemblies must always be replaced in
both brakes.
(3) Locate brake line and wipe
area around fitting at brake with a
clean cloth to remove dirt and grease.
Remove hose and place dust cap over
end fitting. Insert dust cap into in
let hole of caliper.
(4) Remove the two anchor bolts
which hold the caliper anchor plate
to the steering spindle, remove the
two bolts and lift the caliper and
anchor plate assembly from the
spindle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position caliper correctly over

disc and slide straight into position
until anchor bracket bolt holes align
with their respective holes on the
steering knuckle.
(2) Instal the lower bolt fmger
tight. Instal the upper bolt and torque
to specification. Torque the lower
bolt to specification. Safety wire both
bolts. Be _sure specified wire wraps
are made and sharp wire ends point
away from brake hoses.
(3) Loosen the bleeder screw. Re
move the plugs from the fluid in
sert hole in the caliper and the brake
hose and insert fitting into hole and
tighten.
(4) Bleed the system. Allow the
caliper to fill with brake fluid. After
all air bubbles have .escaped, and fluid
runs clear from bleeder, close the
bleeder screw. Replenish the brake
fluid in the master cylinder.
(S) Pump the brake pedal several
times to actuate the piston seals and
position the hose and pad assemblies.
(6) Check for fluid leakage at all
connections under maximum pedal
pressure.
(7) Instal wheel and tighten wheel
nuts to 70-115 lbs ft Torque.
(8) Remove jackstands or lower

hoist.
(9) Road test the vehicle and
make several heavy 40 - 0 m.p.h.
stops to wear off any foreign material
on the brakes and to seat the shoes.
(The vehicle may pull to one side
on the f~rst application after service.
This is normal until shoes are seated).
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER DRUM BRAKES

REMOVAL
1. Remove the hairpin clip from

the brake master cylinder push rod
pedal pin.
2. Slide the master cylinder push
rod and the nylon spacer and bushing
oft' the brake pedal pin.
3. Remove the brake tubes from
the primary and secondary outlet
ports of the master cylinder.
4. Remove the nuts and lock~ashers that secure the master cylmder to the dash panel and lift the
cylinder forward and upward from
the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the boot on the push

rod and secure the boot to the master
cylinder. Carefully insert the master
cylinder push rod af?-d boot through
the dash panel openmg and position
the master cylinder on the panel.
2. Install the nuts and lock
washers at the dash panel and torque
Coat the nylon bushings with
SAE lOW oil.
3. Install the inner nylon spacer
the ~aster cylinder push rod, and th;
bushmg on the brake pedal pin.
Secure these parts to the pin with the
hairpin clip.
4. Connect the brake lines to the
master cylinder leaving the brake line
fittings loose.
5. Fill the master cylinder with
the specified brake fluid to within
~ inch of the top of the dual reservoirs. Use Motorcraft Brake Fluid
or equivalent for all drum brake
applications.
6. Tighten the brakeline fittings.
Bleed the dual master cylinder and
the primary and secondary brake
systems. Refer to Hydraulic System
Bleeding, Page 2-3 for proper
procedure.
7. Operate the brakes several
times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER DISC BRAKES
REMOVAL
1. Remove the brake tubes from
GROUP
2-20
2-BRAKES
Fig. 23-Brake Installation
the primary and secondary outlet

ports of the master cylinder.
Remove the wires from the warning
light switch.
Remqve the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the
primary reservoir. Refer Fig. 25.
2. Remove the two nuts and two
lock washers attaching the master
cylinder to the brake booster assembly.
3. Slide the master cylinder forward and upward from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the master cylinder

assembly over the booster push rod
and onto the two studs on the booster
assembly (Fig. 23).
2. Install the attaching nuts and
lock washers and torque them to
specifications.
3. Install the front and rear brake
tubes to the master cylinder outlet
fittings.
4. Fill the master cylinder with
the specified brake fluid to within
: inch of the top of the dual reservoirs. Use Motorcraft Brake Fluid.
Do not m1x low temper~ture brake
fluids with the specified fluids for the
disc brake system.
5. Bleed the dual master cylinder
and the primary and secondary brake
systems. Refer to Hydraulic System
Bleeding, Page 2-3 for the proper

procedure. Replace the wires on the
warning light switch.
7. Operate the brakes several
times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.
BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL
1. Working from inside the vehicle below the instrument panel,

disconnect the booster push rod from
the brake pedal assembly. To do this
proceed as follows:
Remove the hairpin retainer from
the brake pedal pin and then remove
the booster push rod and the nylon
spacer and bushing off the brake
pedal pin (Fig. 23).
2. Open the hood and remove the
master cylinder from the booster. It
is necessary to disconnect the brake
lines. Care should be taken that the
brake lines are not deformed. Permanent deformation of brake lines can
lead to tube failure.
3. Disconnect the manifold vacuum hose from the booster unit.
4. Remove the booster to dash
panel attaching nuts (Fig. 23).
Remove the booster assembly from
the dash panel, sliding the push rod
link out from the engine side of the
dash panel.
INSTALLATION
1. Mount the booster and bracket

assembly to the dash panel by inserting the push rod or push rod link in
through the hole and boot in the dash
panel. Install the bracket to dash
panel attaching nuts (Fig. 23).
2. Connect the manifold vacuum
hose to the booster.
3. Install the master cylinder and
torque the attaching nuts to specifications.
.
4. Working from inside the vehicle below the instrument panel,
connect the booster push rod link to
the brake pedal assembly. To do this,
proceed as follows:
Install the inner nylon spacer, the
booster push rod, and the bushing on
the brake pedal pin. Secure these
parts to the pin with the hairpin
retainer.
BRAKE PEDAL
REMOVAL
ALL MODELS
1. Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the master cylinder or booster
push rod and the nylon spacer and
bushing off the brake pedal pin
tFig. 23).
2. Remove the circlip type retainer from the brake pedal shaft,
then remove the shaft, the brake
pedal and the bushings from the
pedal support bracket.
PART 2-2 -BRAKE SYSTEM

INSTALLATION
1. Apply a coating of SAE 10

engine oil to the bushings and locate
bushings in their proper places on
the pedal assembly and pedal support bracket (Fig. 23)
2. Position the brake pedal assembly to the support bracket, then
install the pedal shaft through the
support bracket and brake pedal
assembly. Install the retainer.
3. Install the inner nylon spacer,
the master cylinder or booster push
rod, and the bushing on the brake
pedal pin. Secure these parts to the
pin with the hairpin retainer.
PARKING BRAKE, EQUALIZER
TO HANDLE, CABLE
REMOVAL
1. Remove the attaching screws

and insulator bracket from the dash
panel.
2. Remove the parking brake
handle assembly and disengage the
cable from the handle as outlined in
this section.
3. Pull the cable down thtough
the hole in the dash panel.
4. Remove the hairpin retainer,
and disengage the cable and housing
from the bracket on the crossmember.
S. Disconnect the cable ball from
II
the equilizer lever, and remove the

cable from the car.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the cable lower ball

to the equilizer lever.
2. Engage the cable and housing
to the bracket on the cross-member
and secure with the hairpin retainer.
3. Push the upper end of the
cable up through the hole in the
dash panel.
4. Connect the cable upper ball
to the parking brake handle, and
install the handle assembly as outlined in this section.
S. Install the insulator bracket to
the dash panel and secure with the
two attaching screws.
PARKING BRAKE EQUALIZER
TO REAR WHEEL CABLE
A single cable passing through the
equalizer and cable guides connects
both parking brake assemblies.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the adjusting lock nut

and cable yoke from the equalizer
rod, along with the rear cable assembly.
2. Remove the hairpin retainers
and disengage the cable rear housings
from the brackets on the underbody.
3. Remove the wheels and tyres
and the rear brake drums as outlined
2-21
on Page 2-16.
4. Disconnect the rear ends of the
cable from the parking brake levers
on the brake shoes. Disengage the
cable housing retaining grommets
from the carrier plates and withdraw
the cable ends and housings from the
inboard sides of the carrier plates.
S. Slide the cable housings out of
the main side brac~ets and remove
the cable assembly from the car.
INSTALLATION
1. Insert both cable ends and

housings through the holes in the
carrier plates from the inboard side.
NOTE: Ensure that when fitting the
cable ends to the carrier plates that
they are fitted so that the flat irt the
D-shaped hole in the cable yoke is
uppermost.
2. Connect the cable ends to the
parking brake levers on the brake
shoes and engage the cable housing
retaining grommets to the carrier
plate.
3. Position the cable housings in
the main side brackets and install the
hairpin retainers.
4. Position the cable yoke and
cable on the equalizer rod and install
the adjusting locknut.
The flat on the threaded section of
the equalizer rod must be uppermost.
5. Adjust the parking brake as
directed on Page 2-3.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
ROTOR REFINISHING
Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum
that is excessively scored or shows a
total indicator runout of over 0. 007
inch should be turned down. Remove
only enough stock to eliminate the
scores and true up the drum. The
refinished diameter must not exceed
0. 060 inch oversize.
Check the inside diameter of the
brake drum with a brake drum
micrometer.
If the drum diameter is less than
0. 030 inch oversize after refinishing,
standard lining may be installed. If
the drum diameter is 0 .030-0.060
inch oversize after refinishing, oversize lining must be installed.
After a drum is turned down, wipe
the refinished surface with a cloth
soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If
one drum is turned down, the opposite drum on the same axle should
also be cut down to the same size.
The finished braking surfaces of

the rotor must be flat and parallel
within 0 . 0007 inch; lateral runout
must not exceed 0 . 003 inch total indicator reading, and the surface finish
of the braking surfaces are to be
80/15 micro inches. The minimum
limiting dimensions (Fig. 2) from
the inboard bearing cup to the outboard rotor face and from the in
boarq bearing cup to the inboard
rotor face must be observed when
removing material from the rotor
braking surfaces. On all models, the
limiting dimensions are to be measured with a ball and puge bar
(Tool Rll02A).
BRAKE SHOE RELINING
Brake linings that are worn to within -:!1., inch of the rivet head or are
less' than 0 . 030 inch thick (bonded
lining) or have been contaminated
with brake fluid, grease or oil must be

replaced. Failure to replace worn
linings will result in a scored drum.
Whea it is necessary to replace

linings, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the
opposite side of the vehicle.
Inspect brake shoes for distortion,
cracks, or looseness. If this condition
exists, the shoe must be discarded.
Do not attempt to repair a defective brake shoe.

1. Wash the brake shoes thoroughly in a clean solvent. Remove all
burrs or rough spots from the shoes.
2. Check the inside diameter of
the brake drum with a brake drum
micrometer. If the diameter is less
than 0 . 030 inches oversize, standard
lining may be installed. If the diameter is 0 . 030-0. 060 inches oversize, oversize lining should be installed.
3. Position the new lining on the
shoe. Starting in the centre, insert
2-22
GROUP 2-BRAKES
and secure the rivets, working alternately towards each end. Replacement linings are ground and no
further grinding is required.
4. Check the clearance between
the shoe and lining. The lining must
seat tightly against the shoe with not
more than 0. 008 inch clearance
between any two rivets.
PISTON RETRACTING TOOL GIRLING
Used Outer
Brake Shoe
DISC BRAKE CALIPER GIRLING

OVERHAUL AND BRAKE
SHOE REPLACEMENT
Weld Nut on tame
side of Brake Shoe
as Tangs
DISASSEMBL \'
1. Remove the caliper from the

vehicle as detailed on Pages 2-18.
2. Remove the inner brake shoe
hold down clips from the anchor
plate, remove the locating pin insulators from the anchor plate and remove the inboard brake shoe and
lining assembly (Fig. 11).
3. Place a small screw-driver
under the outer brake shoe retaining
clip tang and lift away from the pin
groove and slide the clip from the
brake shoe retaining pin. Repeat the
operation to remove the other shoe
retaining clip
Remove the brake shoe.
4. Apply air pressure to the fluid
port in the caliper with a tubber
tipped nozzle to remove the piston.
Place a cloth over the piston before
applying air pressure to prevent damage to the piston. If the piston is
seized and cannot be forced from the
caliper, tap lightly around the piston
while applying air pressure. Care
should be taken because the
piston can develop considerable
force due to pressure build up.
5. Remove the dust boot from
the caliper assembly.
6. Remove the rubber piston seal
from the cylinder and discard it.
CU:ANJN(; ANll INSPF.CTION
Clean all metal parts with denatured alcohol or a suitable solvent.

Use clean, dry, compressed air to
clean out and dry the grooves and
passage ways. Be sure that the caliper
bore and component parts are completely free of any foreign material.
Check the cylinder bore and piston
for damage or excessive wear. Replace the piston if it is pitted, scored,
or the chrome plating is worn off.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply a film of clean brake

fluid to the new caliper piston seal
and install it in the cylinder bore. Be
sure the seal does not become twisted
and that it is seated fully in the
groove.
i -13 Nut
Weld' securely
. to Brake Shoe
i
Drill 33/64 dia.
in Brake Shoe
-13 Nut
Weld securely
to Threaded Rod
IF necessary a similar tool may be made for P.B.R. Caliper from discarded
brake shoe.
2. Install a new dust boot by
setting the flange squarely in the
outer groove of the caliper bore.
3. Coat the piston with clean
Motorcraft Brake Fluid and insert
into the cylinder bore.
A piston retracting tool can be
fabricated from a discarded outer
brake shoe and a threaded rod. See
diagram for details.
4. Install the piston retracting
tool in the caliper with the brake shoe
lances positioned in the slots in the
caliper outer legs and retract the
piston.
NOTE: When using the piston retracting tool, turn the threaded rod
one half turn at a time and pause to
permit the piston to move in the seal.
Reduce the time interval as the piston
nears the bottom of the cylinder bore
to ensure bottoming of the piston. If
the piston is not fully bottomed, the
spacing between the linings is insufficient to permit the brake shoe
and caliper assembly to be mounted
over the rotor.

5. Position the new outer brake
shoe and lining assembly on the
caliper and install the outer brake
shoe retaining clips. Hold the retaining pins in position with an Allen
wrench or bolt while installing the
retaining clips.
6. Position the caliper assembly
over the rotor with the outer brake
shoe against the rotor braking surface
during installation in the anchor plate
to prevent pinching the piston boot
between the inner brake shoe and
the piston.
Verify that the correct caliper is
assembled in the correct anchor plate
as marked during disassembly.
7. Position the new stabilizer
(supplied in the brake kit). Apply denatured alcohol or methylated spirits
on the locating pins and attach the
stabilizer to the caliper. Be sure the
locating pins are free of oil,
grease or dirt. Tighten the caliper
locating pins finger tight.
s. Install the stabilizer to anchor

plate attaching screws and tighten
finger tight.
9. Remove the cap from the
brake hose fitting. Install a new
copper washer on each side of the
hose fitting and install the brake hose
on the caliper. Tighten the attaching
screw to 27-32lbs. ft. torque.
Bleed the brake system as detailed
on Page 2-3 of this manual.
10. Fill the master cylinder as required to within 3/8 inch of the top
of the reservoir.
11. With moderate pressure applied to the brake pedal torque the
stabilizer attaching screws to 8-20 lb
ft. and the caliper locating pins to
26-50 lb. ft.
assembly and tighten the wheel nuts
to 70-115 lbs. ft. torque.
13. Pump the brake pedal prior to
moving the vehicle to position the
brake pads.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL AND BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT P.B.R.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove outboard shoe by

pressing down towards inboard shoe
at the same time sliding forward.
(2) Remove inboard shoe by sliding away from caliper piston. At the
same time overcoming the resistance
of the anti-rattle spring attached to the
shoe.
(3) Mount the caliper in a vice
equipped with padded jaws.
(4) Remove two cotter pins
retaining guide pins.
(5) Tap out guide pins using a
suitable pin punch.
Note
Drive guide pin out from cylinder
or inboard side of caliper.
( 6) Tension on anti-rattle spring
will then be relieved and spring can
be removed from anchor bracket hold
ing point.
(7) Remove anchor bracket and
remaining guide and anti-rattle spring.
Clamp bracket in vice.
(8) Using screw driver remove
anti-rattle spring from anchor bracket
and guide.
(9) Remove the four guide pin
boots and discard. Check guide pins
for wear and plating damage. Replace
guide sleeve pin assy. if damaged.
(10) Remove piston by applying
compressed air at the fluid inlet port
of the caliper taking care not to
apply air at too high a pressure as to
cause the piston to l)Op out and
damage it against the outboard

portion of the caliper. A thin block
of wood or hardboard located in the
position of the outboard shoe will
assure the piston is not damaged.
(11) As the piston slides out, the
I.D. of the rubber boot in the groove
of the piston should stretch out
around the large portion of the piston allowing the piston to slide out
and be removed.
(12) Peel boot out of cylinder
groove and discard.
(13) Inspect the piston for scoring, pitting, corrosion or areas where
the chrome plating is worn off. If
any damage is evident, replace the
piston. If not wipe clean and set
aside. Black stains, if any, are caused
by the seal and will do no harm.
(14) Use a small pointed "wood
or plastic tool to remove the pis
ton seal from its groove in the cylinder bore and discard, be careful
to avoid damaging the seal seat.
(15) Clean all parts with brake
fluid and wipe dry with lint free
cloth, using an air line, blow out
the drilled passages and cylinder bore.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Place caliper assembly on a

clean bench area with the open end
of cylinder up.
(2) Dip new piston seal in clean
disc brake fluid and install in cylinder groove. Position seal at one
area in the groove and gently work
around cylinder bore with a f'lllger
until properly seated. Check to be
sure the seal is not twisted or rolled
in its groove.
(3) Coat piston boot in P.B.R.
rubber grease. Place piston boot over
end of piston.
(4) Locate boot into groove in
caliper bore.
(5) liberally coat the outside diameter of piston with P.B.R.
rubber grease.
(6) Position piston over cylinder
and press the piston straight into the
cylinder until it bottoms. Use extreme care not to scratch the piston
or tear the dust boot. The boot I.D.
should slide up the piston as the
piston moves into the cylinder and
comes to rest in the piston groove.
(7) Smear the inside of the guide
pm sleeve with Approved High Melting
Point Grease - refer specifications.
(8) Smear the four guide pin
boots with High Melting Point grease
and assemble into sleeve with the
lips facing outwards.
(9) Locate fmt of guide pin
sleeves in position.
2-23
(10) Line up sleeve with holes

in the caliper assembly and insert
guide pin using care not to damage
boots. Place drift on to head of pin
and tap pin into position with hammer.
The pin must be entered from the
outboard hole, i.e. The hole which
is not cross drilled to take a cotter
pin.
Note
Assemble guide pin with narrow
rounded groove at cotter pin end.
(11) Place bracket in position with
hook end at the same end as the
bleeder screw. Insert second sleeve
and guide pin as above. Insert two
split cotter pins to retain guide pin.
(12) With the aid of expanding
circlip pliers install the single loop
anti-rattle spring over the guide pin
sleeve.
(13) Place a thin piece of shim
material over sleeve. Locate double
loop anti-rattle spring and press spring
over sleeve. Remove shim material.
Note
It is important to ensure that the
guide pin sleeve is not burred or
scored during installation of anti-rattle
springs. Burring of the sleeves could
prevent automatic pad adjustment
when compensating.for lining wear.
l14) Slide inboard shoe towards
caliper piston, at the same time locate
anti-rattle spring inside caliper piston.
( 15) Using a screw driver to raise
retaining clip slide one end of outboard shoe onto caliper housing.
Repeat to place remaining end in
p<;>sition. Ensure the two locating
posts locate in the two holes in
Caliper housing.
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY
1. Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover
and diaphragm. Pour out any brake
fluid that remains in the cylinder.
Discard the old brake fluid.
2. In the case of drum brake
vehicles, prise up the two lugs on the
retaining plate at the rear of the
master cylinder (Fig. 25). If the
secondary piston stop bolt has not
been removed from the bottom of
primary reservoir (Fig. 24) depress
the primary piston and remove the
stop bolt.
3. Remove the primary piston
assembly from the master cylinder
bore. Do not remove the screw
that retains the primary return
spring retainer, return spring
and protector on the primary
piston. This assembly is factory
2-24
GROUP 2-BRAKES
pre-adjusted and should not be
disassembled.
4. Remove the secondary piston
assembly.
5. Remove the brake light warning switch from the side of the
cylinder. Remove the plug from the
end of the master cylinder and withdraw the differential valve and
spring.
INSPECTIO"' AND REPAIR
FIG. 24- Dual Master Cylinder
Disc Brakes
1. Clean all parts in clean denatured alcohol, and inspect the parts
for chipping, excessive wear or
damage. When using a master
cylinder repair kit, install all the
parts supplied.
.
2. Check all recesses, openings
and internal passages to be sure they
are open and free of foreign matter.
Use an air hose to blow out dirt and
cleaning solvent. Place all parts on a
clean pan or paper.
3. Inspect the master cylinder
bore for signs of etching, pitting,
scoring or rust. Honing of the master
cylinder is not recommended. If it is
necessary to hone the ma~ter cylinder bore to repair damage, do not
exceed allowable hone specifications.
ASSEMBLY
FIG. 25- Master Cylinder- Drum Brakes.
1. Dip all parts except the master

cylinder body in clean motorcraft
Brake Fluid.
2. Carefully insert the complete
secondary piston and return spring
assembly in the master cylinder bore.
3. Install the primary piston assembly in the master cylinder bore.
On drum brake vehicles, fit the
piston retainer plate to the rear of
the master cylinder and lock into
position by bending locking tabs into
the groove.
4. Depress the primary piston
and insert the secondary piston stop
bolt in the bottom of the primary
reservoir.
5. Install the differential valve
and spring assembly and refit the
plug. Do not replace the warning
light switch until the system has
been bled. Failure to observe this
precaution will result in a damaged
switch.
6. Replace the diaphragm gasket
and the filler cap.
2-25
PART
23
SPECIFICATIONS
DISC BRAKES All Dimensions in Inches
Disc Diameter
Disc Thickness (nominal)
Maximum Allowable Runout
. Lining Maximum Wear Limit ..
Lining Dimensions
Sedan (Except G.T.)
Primary
Secondary
G.T. Seadan and
Primary
15 cwt Ute and Van
Secondary
Master Cylinder ..
Bore Diameter ..
Disc Brake Caliper Bore
Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore
Falcon GT
All other Sedans
Waggon, Ute and Van
Pedal height with 20" of vacuum
and 120 lb pedal effort
DRUM BRAKES All Dimensions in Inches
11.25 Drum Diameter ..

0 . 94
0.003 Maximum Allowable Runout
0.030 Lining Maximum Wear Limit ..
Rear
From top of rivets (riveted linings)
1.75 X 8.35
or top of shoe (bonded linings)
1.75 X 10.75
Lining Dimensions
Front
2.25 8.35
All except 15 cwt Ute & Van
2.25 X 10.75
Primary
2.25 x 8.35
Secondary
2. 25 x 10.75
P.B.R.
1.00 15 cwt Ute & Van primary 2.25 x 8.35
2 . 375
secondary 2.25 x 10.75
Master Cylinder
P.B.R.
.9375 Bore diameter
1.00
.8125 Rear wheel cylinder bore Sedan
.875
8125
Wagon Ute & Van
.875
Front wheel cylinder bore
All models
1.125
1.90"
Pedal Height- at 1600 p.s.i.
line pressure
3.0"
Front 10.0
Rear 10.0
0.007
0 .030
Rear
1. 75 X 8 . 35
1.75x10.75
2.25 X 8.35
2.25 X 10.75
P.B.R. CALIPER GUIDE PIN LUBRICATING GREASE- CALTEX THERMATEXT E.P.I.

Hydraulic Line Diameter
0 . 188
Pressure Differential Valve-Integral with Master Cylinder.
WARNING: The Warning Light Switch must be removed
prior to bleeding the system and replaced on
completion of the bleeding operation. Failure
to observe this precaution will cause the
switch to be damaged.
On the G.T. vehicles the functional pressure
differential valve is independent of the master
cylinder.
TORQUE LIMITS- GENERAL FT. LBS.
Parking Brake Control Assembly Mounting

Nuts and Bolts . .
12-25
Master Cylinder to Dash Panel Screw . .
13-20
Master Cylinder to Booster
13-20
Booster to Dash Panel . .
13-20
Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate
*Upper 110-140
to Spindle Bolts
Lower 55- 75
Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield to Spindle
9-14
Brake Hose to Caliper Connection Bolt
17-25
Caliper Locating Pins . .
26-50
Caliper Stabilizer to Am::hor Plate Bolt
8-20
Caliper Brake Shoe Clips
6-10
Caliper Bleeder Screws . .
6-15
Wheel Cylinder to Backing
Plate Screws . .
10-20
Rear Brake Backing Plate to Axle Housing

Removable Carrier
..
50-70
Integral Type . .
20-40
Front Brake Backing Plate to Spindle
28-35
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw . .
32-65 Inch Lb.
Disc Brake Calipers Bleeder Screw
6-15 Ft. Lb.
Brake Hose Connection to Front Wheel Cylinder
12-20
Brake Line Connection to Rear Axle Housing
12-19
Removable Carrier
12-19
Integral Type ..
Hydraulic Tube Connections**
10-15
~X 24
10-15
x24
10-17
! X 20
10-17
-i~ X 18
70-115
Wheel to Hub and Drum or Hub and Rotor Nuts
*The upper bolt must be tightened first.

All hydraulic lines must be tightened to the specified
torque value and be free of fluid leakage.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMAnON AND NOTES

-
Date
Letter No.
Brief Detail
Pal
'
'
.
.
---

GROUP
3
PAGE
PART
PART
PART
3-1
Suspension, Steering, Wheels

and lyres, General Service
3-2
3-11
3-3
Suspension
Power Steering
PART
Steering Column and Linkage
3-38
PART
PART
3-5
Steering Gear
_yvheels and lyres
3-45
PART
3-7
3-2
3-6
Specifications
3-20
3~48
3-53
3-2
PART
31
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS

AND TYRES GENERAL SERVICE
Section
1 Diagnosis and Testing
Pare
... . .... ...... ...... .
Front Wheel Alignment Check . ... .... ..

Trouble Symptoms & Causes ...... ...... ... ... .. ....
3-2
3-3
3-6
Pap
Se~tion
Adjustment~~
2 Common
3
4 Repairs ...... .. ....
Cleaning & Inspection ... ... .. .. .. ...... ...... .. ....
3-7
3-9
MANUAL SRERING
Table I Page 3-6 lists various steering gear and linkage trouble symptoms
i!Od possible causes. Several of these
symptoms are also common to suspension frame, and wheel and tyre
troubles. For this reason, be sure that
the cause of the trouble is in the
steering gear or linkage before adjusting, repairing. or replacing any of the
steering parts.
POWER STEERING
PRELIMINARY TESTS
The following preliminary checks
should '\!ways be made before performing any trouble-shooting operations.
Check Pulhp lelt
If the pump belt is broken, glazed,
or worn, replace with a new belt. Use
only the specified type of belt.
Check The lelt Tension
If the belt is too loose or too tight,
it should be adjusted to the proper
tension as outlined on Page 3-25.
A "used belt" Is one that has run
10 minutes or longer.
Check Fluid Level
Run the engine until the fluid is at
normal operating temperature (165
degrees F to 175 degrees F). Then
turn the steering wheel all the way to
the left and right several times, and
shut off the engine.
Check the fluid level in the power
steering reservoir. The level must show
on the cross hatching between the
bottom of the Dipstick and the full
mark (Fig. I). If the level is low, add
automatic transmission fluid M2C33F.
Do not overfill the reservoir.
Check For Pluld Leaks
1. If the power steering ftuid

does not already include yellowish
FIG. 1
Power Steering Pump
Dipstick
green dye, pre-mix one teaspoonful
of oil-soluble aniline dye with 2
pints of automatic transmission ftuid
M2C33-Ft. Then refill the reservoir
with the dye solution.
l. With the eng10e running at idle
speed, turn the steering wheel all the
way to the right stop and to the left
stop several times to distribute the
dye solution throughout the hydraulic
system. Do not hold the wheel against
each wheel stop for more than 3 to
S seconds.
3. Shut off the engine. and check
for leaks.
Fitting and Tube Seat Leak. Since
mo~t fluid leaks occur at the fittings
and connections in a power steering
hydraulic system, these parts should
be checked before any other part is
replaced.
Dirt, oil, and grease should be removed
from all areas where leaks may ex.ist.
If the fittings and conn~:ctions do not
leak, check the other parts of the
~~m.
Check the hose connection at the

pump for leaks, and tighten the hose
clamp if necessary.
Pump Leaks. If leakage occurs at
the pump reservoir seal, pump outlet

valve seals, or the support stud seal,
check the torque of the outlet valve
nut and the support stud aut. If
torque is within specifications, replace
the reservoir seal, outlet valve seals,
or the support stud seal, whichever is
required if leaks are evident other
than the lines.
Steering gear leaks. Should a leak
be found in the steering gear it will
be necessary to remove the gear to
effect repairs. Preloads must be reset
after se.a l replacement. (See Page 3-20)'
Check Turning lffort
With the front wheels properly
aligned and tire pressures correct.
check the effort required to turn the
ateerina wheel.
1. With the car on dry concrete,
set the parkin1 . brakes.
2. With the eaaine warmed up and
runnin1 at idle speed, tum the steer
ina wheel to the left and riaht several
times to warm the fluid.
3. Attach a torque wrench to the
ateerina wheel hub. lFig. 2). Check
the effort required to tum the wheel
at least one complete revolution in
both directions. The torque should be
approximately equal in both directions.
Pump-fluid Pressure Test

A ftuid pressure test will show
whether the pump or some other unit
in the power steerina system is causinJ trouble in the system. Steps outlined below should be followed to de
termine the cause of the trouble.
I. Measure the pump belt tension.
When adjuadaJ the belt tensloa oa
the power ateerin1 pump, do aot pry
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION, STEERrNG, WHEELS & lYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-3
...wt the pump to olala the proper belt load.
A h81f-lnch cut boa ba been In
corporated on the front face of tile
pump cover p..te onto which a 'lte
Inch open end wrench can be fttte4 to
,.,. the pump and obtala the proper
belt teDIIon.
2. Disconnect the pressure line
hose from the pump outlet, and install
a 0-2000 psi pressure gauae and shut
off valve between the end of the hose
and the pump outlet (Fig. 3).
7. Increase the engine speed to

1000 rpm; then, slowly close the
gause shut-off valve. With the valve
fully closed, the pump pressure
should be 1275 50 psi.
Do not close the alve for more
than a few seconds (maximum 5 ICC
onds), as tbls would abnormally In
crease the lubricant (lluld) temper
ature and cause undue pump and/ or
steerlna gear wear. En&ine rpm
should not exceed fast Idle durlq
tbls test .
If pressure Is more or ae,. than

speclftcadon, rep..ce the pump as~embly.
If the preceding test results are

satisfactory, proceed as follows:
8. Open the shut off valve fully,
and run the engine at 1000 rpm.
9. Turn the steering wheel to full

lock and read the pressure. If the
pressure is not to specification,
1275 t 50 psi, the steering gear is at
fault and must be removed for repair.
Do not hold the steering gear
against the stop for more than S
seconds.
,IG. 2 -Checking Turning Effort-Typical
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

CHECKS
Do not attempt to check and adjust front wheel alignment without
first making a preliminary inspection
of the front-end parts.
Chec)( all the factors of front wheel
alignment except the turning angle
before making any adjustment~. The
harping angle should be checked only
after caster, camber, and toe-in have
been adjusted to specification.
The front wheel" alignment specifications, given in Part 3-7 are correct only when the car is at "Curb
Height." Before checking or adjusting the alignment factors, the suspension alignment spacers (Tool
T65P3000-B) must be installed to
obtain the curb heights.
Be ..-e tUt the pre 1 re pap II

between the pmap ud the lbat .,.
..m, all conaeetloal . . apt, ...
. . ~~tat o11 na.e 11 fair opea.
3. Connect a tachometer.
4. Start the engine and operate it
at idle speed for at least two minutes
to warm up the fluid.
5. Cycle the steering wheel ti'om
stop-to-stop several times to expel
any air from the system; stop the
engine. Remove the reservoir filler
cap and check the fluid level in the
reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to
the proper level.
8. With the engine running at ap-
proximately 500 rpm and no steering effort applied, and the fluid at
normal operating temperature, the
pressure gauge should show a pressure of less than 50 psi. If the pressure is higher, inspect the hoses for
kinks and obstructions.
FIG. 3 ,..._.. Ttsti.. Tool Installed-Typical
3-4
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS . & lYRES
EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION
Equipment- used for front wheel

alignment inspection must be accurate. Alignment height spacers (Figs.
4 and 5 are used to check caster,
camber. The spacers should be
omitted when checking toe-in.
Controlled body height for checking and setting ~aster and cambe~ is
achieved by usmg the suspension
alignment spacer Tool No. T65P3000-B. When proceeding with an
alignment check it is esse~tial that
the alignment spacers are adJusted as
described in the following paragraphs.
Note: Do not use the spacers with
the securing pins inse~ed in
the hole marked "Falcon" as
this setting is unsuitable for
the Australian built model.
Note: Alignment spacers are not to be
used on G.T. and G.T./H.O.
vehicles or on any vehicle fitted
with the improved handling
suspension option.
Rear Alignment Spacer

Installation
Take the two tubes identified Bl
and the two remaining supports B3,
assemble together with the pins,
located in the holes marked "LINCOLN" for the Country Ride suspension or in the holes marked FAIRLANE for the Custom Ride
suspension.
Raise the rear of the . car
slightly and fit .the spa~ers on ~e
axle housing agamst the mboard side
of the inner 'U' bolts with the short
end of the curved foot facing the
rear so as to clear the brake pipe.
Position the spacer vertically so that
the bump rubber plate will rest on
the horizontal face of the support.
Lower the car. This provides the 8"
dimension required between the axle
housing body side member for the
Country Ride or 7" for the Custom
Ride suspension.
tions provided by the equipment

manufacturer.
Tool 3000 B o C
FIG. 5 -Typical Rear

Alignment Spacer
Installation
Front Alignment Spacer

Installation
Refer specifications.
From the main kit T65-3000-B,
take the two tubes identified B2 and
the two supports B4 ('U'-shaped
plate) and assemble with the pins
located in the holes marked FAIRLMUST. For use on the Country Ride ,
suspension or in the holes marked
LINCOLN-MUST. H.D. For use on
the Custom Ride suspension.
Cut two 1" X I!" spacer
plates from ! " flat mild steel. Raise
the front of the body two or three
inches one side and instal an assembled spacer over the front outer ball
joint securing rivet on the flat surface
of the upper suspension arm and
position the upper end of the spacer
adjacent to the front face of the rebound rubber as shown in Fig. 4
Place a 1 X li" X!" spacer plate in
the 'U' section of the upper end of
the support then lower the vehicle
making sure that the bracket assembly rests on the spacer plate.
.Repeat this procedure for the
opposite side.
The purpose of the !" thick spacer
plate is to bring the effective height
ofthe spacer to requirements, i.e. 7".
For Country Ride or 6.25" for
Custom Ride suspension.
ALIGNMENT MARKS
FIG. 6-Straight Ahead

Position Marks-Typical
CASTER
FIG . 4 -Typical Front

Alignment Spacer
Installation
1. Drive the car m a straight line
far enough to establish the straight
ahead position of the front wheels.
and mark the steering wheel hub and
the steering column collar (Fig. 6).
Do not adjust the steering wheel
spoke position at this time. If the
front wheels are turned at any time
during the inspection, align the marks
to bring the wheels back to the
straight-ahead position.
l. With the car in position for the
front end alil!nment inspection and
adjustment, install the alignment
spacers to establish the curb height.
3. Install the w h e e I alignment
equipment on the car. Whichever
type of equipment is used, follow the
installation and inspection instruc
Check the caster angle at each
front wheel.
Caster is the forward or rearward
tilt of the top of the wheel spindle
(Fig. 7). If the spindle tilts. to the
rear, caster is positive. If the spin4le
tilts to the front, caster is negative.
The correct caster angle, or tilt, is
specified in Part 3-7. The maximum
difference between both front wheel
f>OSITIVE
CAMBER
_!i-J
Ii
NEGATIVE-,
CASTER
,~l OF TIRE
CAMBER
.ANGLE
I I--POSITIVE
fY
CASTER
.
FRONT OF
CAR
FIG. 7 -Caster and Camber

Angles
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-5
caster angles should not exceed 'h o.
However, a difference of not more
than lA o is preferred.
CAMBER
Check the camber angle at each
front wheel.
Camber is the amount the front
wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 7).
If a wheel tilts outward, camber is
positive. If a wheel tilts inward, camber is negative. The correct camber
anaJe, or outward (positive) tilt, is
specified in Part 3 7. The maximum
difference between both front wheel
camber angles should not exceed 'h o.
However, a difference of not more
than lA o is preferred.
TOE-IN
Alignment height spacers are not
used to check and adjust toe-in. Toein should only be checked and ad-
justed after the caster and camber

has been adjusted to specification.
Check the toe-in with the front
wheels in the straight-ahead position. Run the engine so that the
power steering will be in the
centre (neutral) position (if so
equipped).
Measure the distance between the extreme front and
also between the extreme rear of both
front tyres. The difference between
these two distances is the toe-in.
and toe-in adjustments and should,

therefore, be measured only after
these adjustments have been made. If
the turning angle does not measure to
specifications, check the spindle or
other suspension parts for a bent condition.
SLEEVE
Correct toe-in, or inward pointing

of both front wheels at the front, is
specified in Part 3-7.
FRONT WHEEL TURNING
ANGLE
When the inside wheel is turned
20, the turning angle of the outside
wheel should be as specified in Part
3-7. The turning angle cannot be adjusted directly, because it is a result
of the combination of caster, camber,
CASTER ADJUSTMENT
STRUT
FIG. 8- Caster and Camber Adjustments
CLAMP BOLTS
FIG. 9- Spindle Connecting
Rod Sleeve-Typical
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
3-6
TABLE 1-Troublt Symptoms and Possible Causes

POSSIIU CAUSES OP 'lllOUIU
I
J
I!.,.
';
1 i
a&
X
X
3. Overloaded or Unevenly loaded Vehicle

5. Saaing or Broken Spring
7. Rear Spring Tie Bolt Off Center
8. Broken Rear Spring Tie Bolts
9. Rear Spring Front Hanger Mislocated

10. Bent Spindle Arm
11. Bent Spindle
12. Lack of Lubrication
14. Obstruction in Power Steering Lines
16. Loose or Worn Suspension Arm Bushings
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
23. Incorrect Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
24. Wheel Out of Balance
l(
27. Frame or Underbody Out of Alignment
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
26. Out-of-Round Wheel or Brake Drum
29. Excessive Wear of Steering Pump Internal Parts
30. Steering Gear Valve Spool Binding
X
X
28. Bent Rear Axle Housing
X
X
20. Insufficient Steering Pump Pressure
19. Loose Steering Gear Mountings
18. Loose, Worn, or Damaged Steering Linkage or Connections
31. Obstruction Within Steering Gear
15
25. Incorrect Front Wheel Alignment
17. Binding Front Suspension Ball Joints or Steering Linkage
22. Incorrect Brake Adjustment
a&
X
X
15. Loose or Weak Shock Absorber
21. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment
1
1
13. Air in Power Steerin& System
.
t
l. Incorrect Tire Pressure
6. Glazed, loose or Broken Power Steering Pump Belt
I ..
Ij
2. Tire Sizes Not Uniform

4. Power Steering Fluid level low-leak
:1
i
J
i

J
I
I
i
I
I
l I
!
J ...tI
J J f f1 a :;:1 f 1 :1 .
J
l a.
.
_.I l ! J a ! f ! 1 j ...
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & lYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-7
EJ

gauge readings with the wheels
positioned 20 o each way from the
straight ahead position.
Caster is controlled by the front
suspension strut (Fig. 8). To obtain
positive caster, loosen the strut
rear nut and tighten the strut front
nut against the bushing. To obtain
negative caster, loosen the strut
front nut and tighten the strut rear
nut against the bushing.
After front wheel alignment factors

have been checked, make the necessary adjustments. Do not attempt to
adjust the front wheel alignment by
bending the suspension or steerln1
,....cs. .
CASTER AND CAMIIR

ADJUSTMENTS
Precaution should be taken when
checking the front .wheel alignment.
When carrying out the check of
caster angle, it is possible that the
lower strut arm bushes may not
always be under equal compression
and therefore, will tend to bias the
strut rod in a forward or rearward
position, thus afFecting the steering
caster angle when the wheels are
turned through their checking positions.
TUIN
ruN DOWNWA.D TO
oo
After the caster and camber has

been adjusted to specification, torque
the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and
the strut front nut to specification.
TOE-IN AND STEERING WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENTS
Check the steering wheel spoke position when the front wheels are in
the straiaht-ahead position. If the
spokes are not in their normal position, they can be properly adjusted
while toe-in is being adjusted.
1. Loosen the two clamp bolts on
each spindle connecting rod sleeve
(Fig. 9).
2. Adjust toe-in. If the steering
wheel spokes are in their normal
position, lengthen or shorten both
rods equally to obtain correct toe-in
(Fig. 10). If the steering wheel
spokes are not in their normal position, make the necessary rod adjust-
Note: Always loosen the appropriate

nut fir.st before attempting to
adjust
Caster,
to avoid
collapsing the tube between the
washers or damaging the
serrated nut.
Camber is controlled by the eccentric cam located at the lower arm
attachment to the side rail (Fig. 8).
To adjust the camber, loosen the eccentric bolt nut and spread the retaining body bracket sufficiently to.
allow unrestricted lateral movement
of the arm assembly in relation to the
body bracket. Raise the car by
placingajack under the subframe and
allow the suspension to take a full
It is essential that whenever the

steering caster angle is checked, that
the distance from the strut bracket to each of the washers is the
same. When checking the caster
angle it is mandatory that the strut
rubbers are centralised before taking
INC.EASE
downward position before attempting

to turn the eccentric adjuster. Rotate
the bolt and eccentric clockwise from
the high position to increase camber
or counterclockwise to decrease
camber.
LENGTH
TUIN UI'WARD
DOWNWARD
TO DEC.EASE
TO DEC.EASE
TUIN UPWAID TO
INCREASE 100 LENGTH
~~~lj.3 2" ~
Lin-HAND ILIIVI
RIGHT-HAND SUIYI
P1Da71
FIG. 1 0 -Spindle Connecting Rod Adiustment

WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT
TURN BOTH CONNECliNG ROO

SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST
SPOKE POSITION
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD

SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO
ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
IS~
WHEN TOE-IN
NOT CORRECT
LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO

INCREASE TOE -IN
LENGIITEN RIGHT ROD

TO INCREASE TOE -IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROD

TO DECREASE TOE . IN
ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION
FIG. 11 -Toe-In and Steering Wheel Spoke Adiustments-
3-8
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
ments to obtain correct toe-in and

steering wheel spoke alignment
.
(Fig. 11).
J. Recheck toe-in and steering
wheel spoke alignment. If toe-in is
correct and the steering wheel spokes
are still not in their normal position,
turn both connecting rod sleeves upward or downward the same number
of turns to move the steering wheel
spokes (Fig. 11 ). .
4. When toem and steering wheel
spoke alignment are both correct.
FIG. 12
torque the clamp bolts on both con

necting rod sleeves to specification.
The sleeve position should be, as
shown in Fig. 12 when the clamp
bolts are tightened.
STEERING GEAR FLUID
CHECKING PROCEDURE MANUAL
1. ~nter the steering wheel.
l. Remove the steering gear hous
ing filler plug.
-Typical Manual Steering Linkage
J. Remove the lower cover-tohousing attaching bolt.

4. With a deaa punch or like in
strument, clean out or push inward
in the filler plug
the loose ftuid
hole and cover to housina attacbina
bolt hole.
5. Slowly tum the steering wheel

to the right stop, fluid should rise
within the lower cover bolt hole; then
slowly turn the steering wheel to the
left stop, fluid should rise within the filler plug hole. If fluid
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & TYRES GENERAL SERVICE

does not rise as specified, further
lubricant should be added until a
lubricant rise is observed.
8. Install the lower cover-to-housing attaching bolt and the filler plug.
EJ
3-9
STEERING GEAR FLUID CHECKING PROCEDURE (POWER).

Check the fluid level in the power
Run the engine until the fluid is at
steering reservoir. The level must show
normal operating temperature {165
on the cross hatching between the
degrees F to 175 degrees F). Then
bottom of the Dipstick and the full
turn the steering wheel all the way to
mark (Fig. 1). If the level is low, add
the left and right several times, and
automatic transmission fluid M2C33F.
shut off the engine.
Do not overfill the reservoir.
mERINO GEAR CUANING

AND INSPECnON
Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Tile bearlq lhould aot be spun dry
wltb eomprelled *Inspect the shaft
and worm for scoring, cracks or
checks, and for straightness .of the
abaft. Check the splines and the
threads on the sector shaft for wear
and burn. Inspect the gear teeth for
scoring, pitting and other wear. Inspect the ball bearings for free movement, and the cups for wear or irregular surfaces. Check the housing for
cracks and the sector shaft needle
bearing for free movement or other
wear.
Check the power steering pump
pressures. If the pump pressures are
not to specification and there are no
external fluid leaks, replace the pump.
If the pump has a visible leak, replace
the reservoir seal, outlet valve seals,
or support stud seal, whichever is re
quired.
fLUSHING THE POWER
SBERING SYSTEM
Should a power steering pump be
come inoperative, the shaft and pulley should be checked for freedom of
rotation. If the pump shaft does not
tum freely (binding), it is 8.!1 indicatiel' that there is wear on the pump .
internal components and the need for
flushing the steering system. when installing a new pump.
1. Remove the power steering
pump and pulley as outlined in page
3-26.
2. Install a new pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump
(page 3-26).
3. Place the oil return line in a
suitable container and plug the reservoir return pipe.
4. Fill the reservoir with fluid
M2C33-F.
S. Disconnect the coil wire to prevent the engine from starting and
raise the front wheels off the ground
6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being
poured into the reservoir, tum the
engine over using the ignition key,
at the same time cycle the steering
wheel from stop to stop.
7. As soon as all of the fluid has
been poured in, tum off the ignition
key, and attach the coil wire.
I. Remove the plug from the reservoir return pipe, and attach the return hose to the reservoir.
9. Check the reservoir fluid level;
if low add fluid to the proper level.
Do not overftll.
10. Lower the car.
11. Start the engine and cycle the
steering wheel from stop to stop to
expel any trapped air from the system.
FRONT END GENERAL
INSPECTION
Check for damage that would affect the runout of the wheels. Wobble or shimmy caused by a damaged
wheel will cause premature tyre wear
and eventually damage the wheel
bearings. Inspect the wheel rims for
dents that could permit air to leak
from the tyrea
TESTING
To check a shock absorber removed from a car proceed as fol
lows:
1. Hold the shock absorber in the
vertical position w i t h the piston
in the same position, push in the piston rod until the shock is extended to
its full length.
2. With the shock absorber held
in the same position, push in the pis
ton rod until the .shock is compressed
to its shortest length.
3, Repeat steps 1 and 2 several
times until all the air is expelled.
4. Clamp the lower end (small di
ameter) in a vise in a vertical posi
tion.
S. Extend the shock to its full
length and then compress it to its
shortest length. There should be a
constant drag during the complete
cycle. Any sudden loss of drag indi
cates air in the system, loss of fluid,
or faulty internal valve operation.
Replace defective shock absorbers.
UPPER BALL JOINT INSPECTION
WHEEL BALANCING
See the instructions provided with
the .Wheel Balancer.
1. Raise the car on a frame contact hoist or by ftoor jacjcs placed

beneath the underbody until the
wheel falls to the full down position as shown in Fig. 13. This will
unload the upper ball joint.
l. Adjust the wheel bearings al>
described in
SHOCK ABSORBERS
3. Attach a dial indicator to the

upper arm.
Passenger cars and station wagons

are equipped with hydraulic shock absorbers of the direct-acting type and
are nonadjustable and nonrefillable,
and cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,
check the action of the shock absorbers by grasping the bumper and
jouncing the car up and down. If the
shock absorbers are in good condi
tion the car will immediately settle to
a normal position after the bumper is
released.
4. With the dial indicator attached to the upper arm, position

the indicator so that the plunger
rests against the inner side of the
wheel rim adjacent to the upper
arm ball joint.
5. Grasp the tyre at the top and
bottom, and slowly move the tyre
in and out (Fig. 13). Note the reading (radial play) on the dial indicator. If the reading exceeds specifi
~.:ations {l'art 3-1), replace the upper
ball j~int.
3-10
LOWER BALL JOINT INSPECTION
1. Raise the car on a frame contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the
wheel falls to the full down position.
l. Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tyre and move
the wheel in and out.
3. As the wheel is being moved

in and out, observe the lower end
of the spindle and the lower arm.
FIG 13 -Measurln1 Upper Ball

Joint Radial Play
Durln1 the forqolaa cbeck, tbe

upper ball joint wiD be unloaded
and may move, Disreprd aU sucb
monmeat of the upper ban )oillt.
Also, do not mistake loose wbeel
bearin1s for a wom baU joint.
4. Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the
lower arm indicates ball joint wear
and loss of preload. If any such
movement is observed, replace the
lower arm.
3-11
PART
32
SUSPENSION
Sectioa
Page
1 Description &: Operation ...... ...... ...... ......

Front Suspension ,_... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......
Rear Suspension ...... . .... ...... ...... ...... ......
3-11
3-11
2 In-Car Adjustments &: Repairs ...... ......

Upper Ball Joint Replacement ...... ...... ......
Upper Arm Shaft and/ or Bushing
Replacement .. .... .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .... .... ..
Stabilizer Replacement ...... ...... ...... ......
......
......
3-12
3-12
......
......
3-12
3-13
3-12
Section
Lowel' Arm Strut and/ or Bushing
Replacement ...... ...... -.... ...... ...... ......
3 Removal & Installation-Front Spring
Front Suspension Upper Arm ...... ...... ......
Front Wheel Spindle Drum Brakes ......
Front Wheel Spindle Disc Brakes ...... ......
Front Shock Absorber ...... ...... ...... .. .... .... ..
Rear Shock Absorber ...... ...... ...... ...... ......
Rear Spring and/ or Bushing ...... ... ... .. ....
fRONT SUSPINSION
Each front wheel rotates on a
spindle. The upper and lower ends of
the spindle are attached to upper and
lower ball joints which are mounted
to an upper and lower arm respectively. The upper arm pivots on a bush
inJ and shaft assembly which is bolted
to the underbody. The lower arm
pivots on a bolt that il located in an
underbody bracket (Fip. 14 and 22 ).
A coil sprina seats between the upper arm and the top of the sprina
housina. A double actina shock absorber is bolted to the arm and the
top of the sprina housina.
The swivelina action of the ball
joints allow the wheel and spindle assemblies to move up and down with
chanaes in road surface. The swivelina ball joints also permit the spindles
and wheels to be tumed to the left or
riaht by the steerinaaear and linkage.
The pivotin~ action of the suspension arms provides an up ad dowa
movement for the spindles and wheels
as required by bumps or depressions
in the road surface. The coil sprinp,
shock absorbers and stabilizer bar
control the front suspension up and
down movements. The struts, which
are connected between the suspension
lower arms and the underbody prevent the suspension arms from movina forward and backward.
RETAINING BOLT
FIG. 14-lront Suspension-Typical
Pa1e
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
3-13
3-13
3-14
3-15
3-16
3-16
3-17
3-17
3-12
FIG. 15 -Rear Suspension-Typical
EJ
REAR SUSPENSION
Each rear wheel hub and brake
drum assembly is bolted to the
rear axle shaft flange. The wheel
and axle shaft assembly rotates in
the rear axle housing. Two spring
pads integral with the axle housing

rest on a spring plate and rubber
insulator. These are located on two
leaf-type springs. The axle housing
is fastened to the springs by spring
clips (U-bolts), spring clip plates
and nuts. (Figs. 16 and 26.) Each
spring is suspended from the underbody: side rail by a hanger at the
front and shackle at the rear: The
upper end of each shock absorber
is mounted to a bracket in the
. underbody. The lower end is mounted to the spring clip plate.
The springs and shock absorbers
provide for up and down movement
of the rear axle and wheels as required by changes in the road surface. They also cushion road shocks.
Falcon vehicles fitted with the
351 CID engine and improved handling suspension and the GT Falcon
are fitted with rear axle radius rods
to give more positive location under
heavy acceleration.
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to suspension and/ or
steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the car.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
car, place the adapters under the
front suspension lower arms. Do not
aDow the adapten to contact the
steeringllnkaae.
UPPER IALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT
1. Position .a support between the
upper arm and frame side rail as
shown in Fig16, then, raise the car
and position safety stands.
l. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
4. Position the ball joint remover
tool as shown in Fig. 17. The tool
should seat firmly against the ends of
both studs, and not against the lower
stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the lower ball joint cotter pin
if it prevents the tool from seating on
the lower stud.
5. Turn the tool with a wrench
until both studs are under tension,
and then, with a hammer, tap the
spindle near the upper stud to loosen
the stud from the spindle. Do not
loosen the stud with tool pressure
alone. Raise the stud out of the
spindle bore.
6. Drill the three rivets retaining
the ball joint to the upper arm and

remove the ball joint.
7. Clean the end of the arm, and
remove all burrs from the hole edges.
Check for cracks in the metal at the
holes, and replace the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Attach the new ball joint to the
upper arm. Use only the bolts, nuts,
and washers supplied in the kit. Do
not rivet the new ball joint to the
arm. Torque the nut~ to specification
9. Position the ball joint stud in
the spindle bore, and torque the retaining nut to specification. Install a
new cotter pin, tighten the nut if necessary to line up the cotter pin hole.
UPPER BALL
JOINT STUD
ARM SUPPORT
FIG. 17 -Loosening Ball Joint

Studs in Spindle-Typical
10. Lubricate the ball joint, and
install the wheel and tire. Torque the
lug nuts to specification
. 11. Remove the safety stands, and
lower the car.
12. Remove the support from between the upper arm and frame.
13. Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-ln.
WOOD BLOCK
FIG. 16 Upper Arm Support
UPPER ARM SHAn AND/OR

BUSHING RELACEMENT
1. Remove the shock absorber and
upper mounting bracket as an assembly.
2. Raise the car on a hoist, install

safety stands, and remove the wheel
cover or hub cap.
3. Remove the grease cap from the
hub; then, remove the cotter pin, nut
lock, adjusting nut and outer bearing
from the hub.
4. Pull the wheel, tire, and the hub
and drum off the spindle as an assembly.
5. Install the spring compressor,
Tool 5310-A and compress the
spring (Fig. 20.21 ).
6. Remove 2 upper arm to spring
tower retaining nuts and swing the
upper arm outboard from the spring
tower.
7. Rotate the inner shaft so that
the retaining studs can be removed.
8. Unscrew the bushings from the
shaft and suspension arm; then, remove the shaft from the arm.
9. Position the shaft in the arm,
apply grease to the new bushings and
0-rings, and install the bushings loose
on the shaft and arm. Tum the bush
lap 10 that the shalt II e:udly cea
tered lD the arm. The shaft will be
properly centered when dimensions
A and B in FiJ.18 are equal. .
PART 3-2- SUSPENSION
3-13
11. Position the spacer parallel

with the inner shaft, and force the
spacer between the flanges of the upper arm (Fig.19l
If the spacer can not be forced between the arm flanges due to excessive distortion, replace the upper arm
assembly.
12. With the spacer positioned in
the arm, torque the bushings to specification. Move the arm on the shaft
to be sure that no binding exists, then
remove the spacer.
13. Connect the suspension u pper
arm to the underbody, and release
the front spring.
14. Remove the spring compressor
and position the wheel, tire, and hub
and drum on the spindle.
15. Install the bearing, washer, adju'lting nut and nut lock. Adjust the
wheel bearing as outlined on page
STABILIZER REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the car high enough to
3-48
10. Fabricate a spacer 8 1/16"

long from a section of ~-inch diameter pipe or metal of comparable
size and strength.
EJ
LOWER ARM STRUT AND /OR

BUSHING REPLACEMENT
Removal
1. Raise the car and install safety
stands.
2. Remove the lower arm strut
front retaining nut, washer and bushing at the frame bracket (Fig. 22).
3. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the lower arm
and remove the strut.
4. Remo"e the bushing, washer
and nut from the strut.
FIG. 19-Torque Upper Ann

Inner Shaft Bushings-Typical
FIG. 18-Shaft Centered in
Ann-Typical
provide working space, and place supports under both front wheels.
2. Disconnect the stabilizer from
each link. Disconnect both stabilizer
retaining brackets, and remove the
stabilizer.
3. Coat the necessary parts of
the stabilizer with rubber lubricant,
and slide new insulators onto the
stabilizer.
4. Connect the stabilizer retaining
brackets, and connect the stabilizer to
both links. Torque the bracket retaining screws and the link bolt nut to
specification.
S. Remove the supports and lower
the car.
and install the cotter pin, grease cap

and hub cap or wheel cover.
16. Lower the car and install the
shock absorber and upper mounting
bracket.
17. Check caster, camber, and toein and adjust as necessary
Installation
1. Install the rear nut, washer and
bushing on the strut.
2. Position the strut to the front
bushing bracket and to the lower arm.
Install the strut to lower arm attaching bolts and nuts and torque to specification.
3. Position the strut front bushing
and washer on the strut and install
the adjusting nut.
4. Tighten the strut adjusting nuts
against the strut frame bracket.
S. L.>wer the car and check caster,
camber and toe-in and adjust as necessary.
HOISTING INSTRUCnONS
Damage to suspension and I or
steering linkage components. may occur if care is not exercised when positionina the hoist adapters of 2 post

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift
car, place the adapters under
front suspension lower arms. Do
.Uow the adapten to .:oatact
steerlacJiDkaae.
FRONT SPRING
the
the
aot
the
Removal
1. Remove the shock absorber and

upper mountina bracket as an assembly.
3-14
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS
& TYRES
1. Raise the car on a hoist, install

safety stands, and remove the wheel
cover or hub cap .
. 3. Remove the grease cap from
the hub; then, remove the cotter pin,
nut lock, adjusting nut and outer
bearing from the hub.
assembly.
Tool 5310-A (Fig.20), and compress
the spring (Fig.21).
6. Remove 2 upper arm to spring
tower retaining nuts and swing the
upper arm outboard from the spring
tower (Fig. 211 .
7. Release the spring compressor
tool and remove the tool from the
spring. Then, remove the spring from
the car
Installation
1. Place the spring upper insulator

on the spring and secure in place with
tape.
2. Position the spring in the spring
tower. Install the spring compressor
Tool 5310-A and compress the
spring.
3. Swing the upper arm inboard
and insert the bolts through t:te holes
in the side of the spring tower. Then,
install the retaining nuts and torque
. them to specification.
4. Release the spring pressure and
guide the spring into the upper arm
spring seat. The end of the spring
must seat against the tab on the
spring seat.
5. Remove the spring compressor
and position the wheel, tyre and hub
and drum on the spindle.
6. Install the bearing, washer, adjusting nut a:jd nut lock. Adjust the
wheel bearing as outlined on page 3-48
and install the cotter pin, grease cap,
and hub cap or wheel cover.
7. Lower the car and install the
shock absorber and upper mounting
bracket.
8. Check caster, camber, and toein and adjust as necessary
FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM
Removal
1. Remove the front shock absorber from the car.

1. Raise the car and install safety
stands under the fr,ame side rails.
3. Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover and the wheel and tyre
SJI().A
SJI().A ORB
FIG. 20 -Spring Compressor Installed-Upper View -Typical

using Tool 53 lO-A, and compress the
spring (Fig.20.21 ).
5. Remove the cotter pin from the
upper ball joint stud and loosen the
stud nut.
tool as shown in Fig. 17. The tool
should seat firmly against the ends of
both studs and not against the lower
stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the lower ball joint cotter pin if
it prevents the tool from seating on
the stud.
7. Turn the tool with a wrench until both studs are under tension; then,
tap the spindle near the upper stud
with a hammer to loosen the stud
from the spin(JJe. Do not loosen the
stud with tool pressure alone.
8. R :move the ball joint remover
tool and remove the ball joint stud
nut from the stud.
9. Remove 2 nuts and washers retaining the upper arm to the spring
tower. Pull the upper arm away from
the spring tower, lift the ball joint
stud from the spindle, and remove
the upper arm from the car.
10. Remove 2 nuts and bolts and
remove the spring pivot from the upper arm.

Installation
1. Position the spring pivot to the

upper arm and install the 2 attaching
bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to
specification.
1. Position the upper arm to the
!lpring tower and the ball joint stud
to the spindle. Install but do not
tighten the ball joint stud nut.
3. Position the upper arm to
spring tower and install the washers
and retait~ing nuts. Torque the nuts
to specification.
4. Release the spring compressor
tool while aligning the spring with
the upper arm spring pivot. Then, remove the tool.
5. Torque the ball joint stud nut
to specification Part 37. Continue
to tighten the nut until the slots in
the nut are in line with the hole in
the ball joint stud. Then, install a
new cotter pin.
6. Install the wheel and tyre and
the hub cap or wheel' cover.
7. Remove the safety stands and
lower the car.
8. Install the shock absorber.
PART i-2- SUSPENSION
3-15
7. Install the wheel, tyre and hub
and drum on the spindle and adjust
the wheel bearing
8. Install the hub cap or wheel cover, remove the safety stands, and low
er the car.
9. Check caster, camber, and toe
in and adjust as necessary.
FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE

DRUM BRAKES
Removal
1. Position a support between

the upper arm and frame as shown
in Fig.16, then, raise the car and
position safety stands.
FIG. 21 -Compressing
Sprin~rlowtr
FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER

ARM
Removal
1. Raise the car and position safety stands under thr. sidt rails.
cover.
3. Remove the wheel, tyre and hub
and drum as an assembly.
4. Remove the stabilizer bar link
retaining out and remove the washers, bushings, spacer, and link bolt
(Fig. 22).
5. Remove the 2 strut to lower
arm attaching outs and bolts.
6. Remove the lower bait joint
stud nut cotter pin and loosen the out
one or two turns. Do not remove the
nat from lhe stud 8t this dme.
tool between the upper and lower ball
joint studs in the reverse position (upside down) from that shown in Fig.
17 The tool should seat firmly aplnst
the ends or both studs and not against
the stud DUtl.
8. Turn the tool with a wrench until the studs are under tension. Tap
the spindle near the lower stud with a
hammer to loosen the stud in the
spindle. Do not l001en lhe stud with
tool pressure only.
View
9. Remove the tool and remove
the nut from the lower ball joint stud.
10. Mark the location of the eccentric and eccentric bolt at the low
er arm to underbody attachment.
11. Remove the nut, bolt, and eccentrics attaching the lower arm to
the underbody and remove the lower arm.
Installation
1. Position the lower arm to the
underbody and install the bolt, eccentrics, and nut.
2. Position the ball joint stud in the
spindle bore and install the r~taioing
nut.
3. Adjust the eccentrics to the
previous marked location and torque
the nut to specification
4. Position the strut to the lower
arm and install the attaching bolts
and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification
5. Position the stabilizer bar link
to the lower arm and install the bolt,
washers, bushings, spacer, and retain
ina nut. Torque the nut to specification
6. Torque the lower ball joint stud
nut to specification
and
install the cotter pin.
cover.
3. Remove the grease cap from
the hub; then, remove the adjusting
nut, washer, and outer bearing cone
and roller assembly.
4. Pull the wheel, hub, and drum
assembly off the wheel spindle.
5. Remove the brake carrier plate
from the spindle. Support the plate to
prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Disconnect the spindle connecting rod end from the spindle arm
7. Remove the cotter pins from
both ball joint stud outs, and loosen
the nuts one or two turns. Do notreJDOYe tiae auCI from the ltuda at tbll
dme.
joint studs (Fia. 17 J. The tool
lbould seat firmly apbut the eads or
both studs and not apbut the stud
DUtl.
9. Tum the tool with a wrench until the tool plaees the studs under ten
sion, and, with a hammer, tap the
spindle near the studs to loosen them
in the spindle. Do not loosen the
studs In the spindle with tool ,....
sure alone.
10. Remove the stud outs and remove the spindle from both studs.
Installation
1. Position the spindle on the low
er ball joint stud and install the stud
nut (Fig. 22).
2. Raise the lower suspension arm,
and guide the upper ball joint stud in
to the spindle. Install the stud nut.
3. Torque the upper stud nut and
then the lower stud out to specifica
tion. Continue to tighten both nuts
until the cotter pin holes and slots
line up. Install new cotter pins.
4. Connect the spindle connecting
rod end to the spindle arm.
3-16
& TYRES
FIG. 22 -Front Suspension Assembly5. Install the brake carrier plate

on the spindle, and torque the bolts
to specification.
6. Install the wheel and drum and
adjust the wheel bearing Page 3-48
7. Remove the safety stands, and
lower the car.
I. Remove the support from be
tween the upper arm and frame.
9. Check and, If necessary, adjust
easter, eamber, and toeln.
FRONT WHUL SPINDLE

DISC BRAKES
Removal
cover, and remove the wheel and tire
from the hub.
2. Remove two bolts attaching
the caliper to the spindle.
Remove the caliper from the disc
and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose.
the hub, then, remove the adjusting
nu,t, washer, and outer bearing cone
and roller assembly.
4. Pull the hub and disc assembly
off the wheel spindle.
S. Remove four bolts and nuts and
remove splash shield from the
spindle.
6. Disconnect the spindle connect
ina rod end from the spindle arm
7. Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen
the nuts one or two turns. Do not re
move the outs from the studs at this
time.
joint studs (FiJ.l7). The tool should
seat firmly against the ends of both
studs and not against the stud outs.
9. Tum the tool with a wrench until the tool places the studs under tension, and, with a hammer, tap the
spindle near the studs to loosen them
in the spindle. Do not loosen the
studs In the spindle with tool pressure alone
10. Position a floor jack under the
lower suspension arm.
11. Remove the upper and lower
ball joint stOd nuts; lower the jack
and remove the spindle.
Installation
1. Position the spindle on the lower ball joint stud and install the stud
nut (Fig 22). Torque the nut to
specification and install the cotter pin.
2. Raise the lower suspension arm,
and guide the upper ball joint stud into the spindle. Install the stud nut.
3. Torque the nut to specifications
and install the cotter pin. Then, remove the floor jack.
4. Connect the spindle connecting

rod end to the spindle arm and install
the retaining nut. Torque the nut to
specification and install the cotter
pin.
5. Position the splash shield to the
spindle and install the attaching
bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts and
bolts to specification.
6. Install the hub and disc on the
spindle.
7. Position the caliper to the disc
and caliper bracket and install the
attaching bolts.
8. Install the wheel and tire on the
hub and adjust the wheel bearing
9. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.
10. Before driving the car, pump
the brake pedal . several times to
obtain normal brake lining to disc
clearance and restore normal brake
pedal travel.
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER
REMOVAL
1. Raise the hood and remove 3
shock. absorber upper mounting
bracket to spring tower retaining
nuts.
3-17

2. Raise the front of the car and
place safety stands under the lower
arms.
3. Remove 2 shock absorber lower
retaining nuts and washers (Fig. 23 ).
4. Lift the shock absorber and upper bracket from the spring tower
(Fig. 23 ) and remove the bracket
from the shock absorber.
SHOCK ABSORBER ACCESS COVER
bushing on each shock absorber stud.

2. Expand the shock absorber and
position it to the spring clip plate and
to the mounting in the floor pan.
3. Connect the lower stud to the
spring clip plate, and install the bushing, washer, and nut on the stud (Fig.
261. Be sure tbe spring clip plate Is
free of bum. Tighten the nut to
specification.
4. From the luggage compartment, install the bushing washer and
retaining nut to the upper mounting
stud (Fig. 2 5) . Torque to specification. On a station wagon, replace the
fioor bed panel
5. Place the spare wheel and tyrE
in the luggage compartment, and secure it in the storage position.
LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT
FLOOR PANEL
REAR SPRING AND/OR

BUSHING
FIG. 24 -Rear Shock

Absorber Access Cover
REAR
SHOCK ~
ABSORBER-
Removal
1. Open the luggage compartment

door, and remove the spare wheel and
tyre On a station wagon, remove the
floor bed panel. .
2. Fold back the floor mat and
remove the shock absorber access
cover from the floor pan. Rerr..ove the
nut, outer washer, and rubber bushing that retain the shock absorber to
the upper mounting in the floor pan
(Fig. 25).
FIG. 23 -Removing or
Installing Front Shock
Absorber-Typical
INSTALLATION
1. Install the upper mounting
bracket on the shock absorber and
torque to specification.
2. Position the shock absorber and
upper mounting bracket in the spring
tower, making sure the shock absorber lower studs are in the pivot
plate holes.
J. Install the 2 washers a'Dd retaining nuts on the shock absorber
lower studs and torque to specification.
4. Install the 3 shock absorber up
per mounting bracket to spring towet
retaining nuts and torque to specification. Then, remove the safety stands
and lower the car.
Installation
1. Place the inner washer and
'
'l?~
;~fi.'-.
.
<?
~ i_J.~. . .
~. ...~
ACCESS COVER
JL.. _
F1155-A
FIG. 25 -Rear Shock

Absorber Upper Mounting - Typical
3. Raise the car and remove the retaining nut, outer washer and bush
ing from the shock absorber at the
spring clip plate (Fig. 26). Compress
the shock absorber and remove it
from the car.
4. If the shock absorber is serviceable and requires new bushings remove the inner bushings and washers
from the shock absorber studs.
REMOVAL
. 1. Raise the car on a hoist and
place supports beneath the underbody
and under the axle.
2. Disconnect the lower end of
the shock absorber from the spring
clip plate, and push the shock out of
the way.
3. Remove the spring clip plate
nuts from the U-bolts; then, remove
the plate (Fig. 2 6 ).
4. Remove the two retaining nuts,
the rear shackle bar, and the two
shackle inner bushings.
5. Remove the rear shackle assembly and the two outer bushings.
6. Remove the front hanger bolt,
nut, and washer from the eye at the
forward end of the spring. Lift out
the spring assembly.
7. If the front bushing is being replaced, assemble the special tool combination to the bushing in the spring
front eye as shown in Fig. 27.
8. While holding the tool nut,
tighten the tool bolt against the tool
thrust washer, the adapter, and detail Al. This operation will force the
bushing out of the spring eye into detail A4 of the tool as shown.
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble the bushing and the
spec1al tool combination to the spring
front eye as shown in Fig. 28.
2. While holding the tool nut, tight
en the tool bolt against the tool thrust
washer, adapter, and detail A4 to
force the bushing into the spring eye
as shown.
3-18
Utility and Van .
FIG. 26 -Rear Spring & Shock Absorber Typical
3. Position the spiina under the

rear axle and insert the shackle assembly into the rear hanaer bracket
and the rear eye of the sprina.
4. Install the shackle inner bushinp, the shackle plate, and the locknuts. TiJhten the locknuts finaer
tiaht.
5 Position the ipriog front eye in
the front hanaer, slip the washer on
the front hanaer bolt, and (from the
inboard aide) insert the bolt throuah
the hanaer and eye. Install the lock
out on me: UIWIJCr oon ana tiahten
ftnaer tisht.
'- Torque the rear shackle locknuts to specification.
7. Lower the rear axle until it resta
on the sprioa. Position the sprina clip
plate on the clips (U-bolts). Install
the U-bolt outs and torque to specifi. cation.
8. Connect the lower end of the
shock absorber to the sprina clip
plate.
9. Place safety stands under the
rear axle, lower the car until the
sprina is in the approximate curb
load position, and then torque the
front hanger stud . lockout to specification.
)c)wer the car.
3-19
.5781-84 (n,,., Wash)
FIG. 27 -Re Spring Front Bushing Removal-Typical
FIG. 28 -Rtar Spring Front Bushing Installation-Typical

REAR SUSPENSION RADIUS ROD
Removal
1. Raise the car on a hoist or jack.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the front attaching
bolt.
4. Remove the rear attaching from
the axle mounting bracket and remove
the radius rod.
Installation
1. Place the front of the radius
rod in the bracket on the body side
member. Insert the attaching bolt
but do not tighten.
2. Place the rear of the radius rod
in the axle bracket and insert the
attaching bolt.
3. Torque both mounting bolts to
specification.
Note: The rear suspension must be
at curb weight position before torquing the attaching bolts to ensure that
the bushes are neutralized.
4. Replace the wheel, torque the
wheel nuts to specification and fit
the hub cap.
5. Lower the car.
3-20
PART
33
POWER STEERING
Section
1 Description & Operation ....
Operation ..
.. ... . ........... .......... ..... ... ....... .
Power Steering Pump ..... ...... .... .. ... ... ........... .
J:o'low Control Valve ... ..... ............ ........ .
Pressure Relief Valve ...... ...... ..... .
2 In-Car Adjustments & Repairs ..... .
Pump Belt Tension Adjustment ... ..
Page
3-20
3-21
3-24
3-25
3-25
3-25
3-25
Power Steering Pump to Steering Box Hoses

&Tubes ............ ..
3 Removal & Installation
3-25
3-25
.. . ...
. .
... ..
Section
Pare
Power Steering Pump r... ...... .. .. .. ...... ...... ...... 3-26
6 Cylinder Engine ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26
8 Cylinder Engine .. ... ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26
Power Steering Pump Pulley ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26
4 Major Repair Operations ...... ...... .. .... ...A. ...... 3-26
Power Steering Gear - Disassembly ..... ..... ..... 3-30
Inspection & Overhaul of Component Assemblies 3-30
Sector Shaft Assembly ..... .....
3-30
3-31
Piston Rack ..... ..... ..... .....
Worm Valve & Sleeve Assembly
3-31
3-32
Reassembly ..... ..... ..... .....
3-36
Setting Preloads on Steering Gear.....
Fitment of Steering Geat to Vehicle
3-37
DESCRIPTION
The Bendix-Bishop Variable Ratio
Integral Steering Gear is an entirely
new unit, and has unique features
designed to reduce steering wheel
turns, increase road 'feel' and simplify maintenance.
The term 'Integral' is used to
denote that the power cylinder and
valve mechanism are incorporated in
the steering gear itself, as distinct
from having a separate booster cylinder and valve as with linkage-boosted
gears. The hydraulic oil supplied
from the power steering pump serves
to lubricate the gear mechanism.
No bleeding of this unit is required.
'Variable Ratio' refers to the fact
that steering in the straight-ahead
position is substantially less direct
than in turns, to such an extent that,
whereas four turns of the steering
wheel would be required if the 'on
centre' ratio were used constantly
from lock to lock; in fact, only 2*
are needed with this system. This
feature is provided by a variable
pitch hourglass worm.
Hydraulic oil flows continually
from the pump mounted on the
engine to the steering gear at a
regulated constant flow of about
two gallons per minute, but for nor-
Fig. 29
Bendix-Bishop Variable
Ratio Steering Gear
mal driving very little pressure is

required to maintain the flow, and
hence little power is absorbed. When
turning or parking however, the free
flow of oil is restricted by the rotary
valve; pressure builds up almost in
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING
3-21
stantly in the system iUld is directed

by the valve to whichev~r. side of the
power cylinder is appropriate to assist
the driver, thus engine power is
absorbed only when needed.
The manual and power sections
of this steering gear are arranged
one above the other as shown in
Figure 30 and have individual adjustments for lash. Thus, should wear
occur in the power section of the
gear and not be adjusted, this will
not affect the fine adjustment of the
manual section, which feature is important in retaining accurate slackfree steering. The manual section is
only subjected to very light loads
under all normal circumstances.
The manual section shown in
Figure 31 comprises an hourglass
worm which engages a single roller
follower mounted on needle bearings
in the sector shaft shown in section
in this view. The thread of the hourglass worm has a different pitch or
lead in the middle where it controls
the 'on centre' driving ratio, to that
towards the ends, where it controls
the cornering ratio. There are no
sharp changes of ratio so that the
effects of this variation are not discernible to the driver except as an
overall reduction in wheel turns.
. Between the worm and the input
shaft is located the rotary valve
whose function is to sense the appropriate conditions calling for the app- .
lication of power assistance.
The hydraulic pump, belt-driven
from the engine crankshaft, draws
fluid from the reservoir and provides
fluid pressure for the system. Within
the pump itself is a pressure-relief
valve which governs the pressures
within the steering system according
to the varying conditions of operation. After fluid has passed from the
pump to the steering box it returns
to the reservoir.
The power steering pump is a
slipper type pump which is integral
with the reservoir. It is constructed
~o that the reservoir is attached to
the rear side of the pump housing
front plate and the pump body is
encased within the reservoir.
OPERATION
The term 'Rotary valve' is used
because valve operation relies on
ROTARY VALVE
OUTLET
INPUT
SHAFT
Fig. 30
Steering Gear- Manual
LOCKING SPRING
WORM FOLLOWER
Section
ADJUSTER
ACCESS PLUG FOR WORM

FOLLOWER ADJUSTER SCREW
TOP COVER
WORM ADJUSTING
SCREW
LOCKNUT----~a. ~~~~~~~~~~
Fig. 31
Steering Gear
relative rotation between the parts,

not longitudinal sliding as for most
valves. The valve as a whole, comprising an inner member which forms
part of the input shaft, and the
surrounding sleeve member rotates in
the steering gear housing as the
steering wheel is turned, but it is only
a slight relative rotation between the
shaft and the sleeve that is used to
direct and control the flow of oil.
Oil is communicated to and from
the valve to the pump and to the
left and right hand sides of the power
assist piston by circumferential grooves separated by the Teflon seals
in the outside of the sleeve. The
sleeve is coupled by a pin drive to the
worm while the input shaft is coupled to it by a torsion bar.
Operation of the valve in the
left turn is shown in Figure 32
where the sleeve and input shaft are
both broken away to show the central
torsion bar. It will be seen that
oil flow is directed by a number
of longitudinal grooves alternately
located in the outer surface of the
input shaft and the inner surface

of the sleeve. These grooves slightly
overlap each other when the valve
is central. Drilled holes connect the
slots in the inside of sleeve to the
circumferential grooves referred to
above. When no power assist is called
for oil from the pump divides equally
between the right and left turn sets
of slots, and there is no resulting
pressure difference across the piston.
As soon as slight relative rotation
occurs however, oil is restricted in its
free return to the pump and simultaneously directed to the appropriate
side of the piston, while at the same
time oil on the inoperative side of
the piston is vented to the return line.
This action is slight at first so that
only a small amount of boost is provided, but becomes progressively
greater as the torsion bar flexes and
the driver requires more assist, so
that in parking, more than 90% of
the work is done by the oil. In order
to effect this graduated increase of
assist, and to give a realistic 'feel'
and good response, the grooves of the
shaft are precisely metered in a
specific form.
J-22
GROUP J- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEE:LS
& TYRES
r1
I
RACK ADJUSTING SCREW
RACK ADJUSTING PAD
SECTOR SHAFT
Note, that on extreme load con-"'<..:~=..-?-'

ditions or when for any reason the
boost system is inoperative, the torsion bar deflects suffiCiently to allow
the input shaft to drive the hourglass worm directly. This is accomplished by having a loose fitting
spline between the lower end of tht:
input shaft and the surrounding upper
end of the hourglass worm. Naturally
steering loads are high under these
conditions and a noticeable amount
of slack develops due to the flexing
of the torsion bar, but the steering
gear remains entirely operable. In the
interests of safety, the car should be
operated in this manner only for the
minimum distance needed to reach a
point where the system . can be serviced.
Figure 32 shows the power section
of the gear and it will be seen that
the sector shaft, again in section,
has three teeth formed in it engaging in the combined rack piston.
This rack piston has a spherical form
to the circumference of the piston
head and aligns itself in the housing
bore according to the mesh. of the
teeth. These teeth are specially designed to provide extra turning power
as needed towards the locks and also
are of varying tightness of mesh so
that the centre teeth engagement
may be always kept slack-free. Reaction of teeth engagement is taken
by a hardened pad adjustably positioned in the housing. Wear is miriimal at this point and the infrequent
adjustments should only be made
strictly in accordance with the procedure laid down on page 3-36. Senous damage can result from improper
adjustment.
Fig. 32
Operation of Rotary Valve on Left Turn
PUMP
STEERING ON CENTRE
PUMP OUTPUT
RETURN TO PUMP
STATIC
VIEW TOWARD WORM
STEERING GEAR
STEERING GEAR
Fig. 33
Oil Flow.- Gear on Centre
PART 3 3- POWER STEERING
PUMP
STEERING ON RIGHT TURN
PUMP OUTPUT
RETURN TO PUMP
STEERING GEAR
Fig. 34
Oil Flow - Gear on Right Turn
PUMP
STEERING ON LEFT TURN
PUMP OUTPUT
RETURN TO PUMP
STEERING GEAR
Fig. 35
Oil Flow- Gear on Left Turn
STEERING GEAR
3-23
3-24
POWER STEERING PUMP

The pump rotor has 8 slippers and
springs which rotate inside a cam insert containing two lobes 180 from
each other. The cam insert and the
pump port plates provide a sealed
chamber within which the rotor and
slippers rotate between the two lobes
for pump operation.
As the rotor turns, the slippers are
forced outward against the inner
surface of the cam insert by a combination of centrifugal force, slipper
spring force and fluid pressure acting
on the under side of the slipper. A
pair of adjacent slippers, along with
the surfaces of the rotor, cam and
pressure plates, form a sealed chamber within the crescent-shaped void.
As this sealed chamber moves
throup the crescent shaped void its
volume cbanaes, resultina in a pumpina action.
As the rotor rotates 90 (Fig. 36),
the slipper slides outward in its slot,
ridina on 'the cam and the volume of
the sealed chamber increases. This
creates a vacuum and sets up a suction area. With the inlet port placed
in this are-a, the chamber will fill with
ftuid. As the rotor rotates from 90
to 180, the volume of the sealed
chamber decreases, thus creating a
pressure area. The pressure or outlet
port is located in this area. While this
pumpina action is goina on between
0 and 180, the same condition is
occurring between 180 and 360.
This combination creates what is
known as a balanced rotor pump.
The two pressure and suction quad-
& lYRES
FIG. 36-Power Steering Pump Cycle
ORIFICE PLUG
Gl4798
FIG. 37 -Power Steering Pump-Sedional View

rants are diametrically opposite each
other.
FLOW CONTROL VALVE
Since the pump is a constant displacement pump, the internal flow
will vary directly with the pump
speed. However, a power steering
gear requires a relatively high constant rate of flow in the parking zol!e
and up to approximately 2800 RPM
and thereafter a lower rate of flow.
This is accomplished by means of a
variable orifice mechanism shown in
f-ig.
37.
All of the internal pump flow is

ported from the pumping mechanism
(rotor, slippers, and cam insert),
EJ
through passage A into the flo\1{ control zone. All of flow goes through
the orifice and out into the line until
the bypass port is cracked open: This
is the regulation point. The oil drops
in pressure in moving through the
orifice. The lower pressure is then
sensed through a hole drilled in the
cover communicating to the rear of
the spool valve. The difference in
pressure thus created on the spool
. valve increases steadily and proportionally with increasing RPM and
this moves the valve progressively
back into its bore, thus increasing the
openmg of the bypass port.
. The metering pin (Fig. 37) travels
with the spool valve decreasing the
net area of the orifice at higher
speeds. This action reduces flow to
the steering gear.
3-25
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
When the steering wheel is turned
completely to the stop position in the
right or left turn direction, or in the
case of a road load of sufficient magnitude, the steering gear will not accept any flow from the pump, except
for a very limited volume of oil due
to leakage past valve seals. Because
of this resistance, excessive hydraulic
pressure would be developed, if it
were not limited by the pressure relief valve.
When relief pressure is reached,
the pressure relief ball is forced off
its seat, allowing oil to pass through
the spool valve and dump into the
bypass port (Fig. 37). The relief valve
will continue to limit oil pressure to
the relief setting for the duration of
the overload condition.
steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of l post
aUow the adapten to contact the
steering linkage,
Pf.lMP BELT TENSION
AD)UsTMENT
Pump drive belt tension cannot
be checked accurately using the
thumb pressure or belt deflection
methods. Correct belt adjustment is
assured only with the use of a belt
tension gauge.
1. Check the belt tension with a
. belt tension gauge (
8620-.H).
With a new belt, or one that has been
run for less than 10 minutes, the tension should be within 120-150 lbs.
With a belt that has been run for
more than 10 minutes, the tension
should be within 90-120 lbs.
2. To adjust the belt, loosen the
mounting bolts incorporated on the
front face of the pump cover plate
(hub side) and one nut at the rear.
Place a Ofto inch open end wrench on
the projecting lh inch boss on the
front face of the pump cover plate
and pry upward to adjust belt tension.
When adjusting the power steering

pump belt tension, do not pry against
the pump or reservoir to obtain the
proper belt tension. The reservoir will
be deformed when pried on or
pressed against and a leak will result.
3. Recheck the belt tension. When
the tension has been correctly adjusted, torque the bolts and the nut
to specification.
POWER STEERING PUMP TO

STEERING BOX HOSES AND
TUBES
Removal
1. Remove the fluid from the
pump reservoir with a suction gun.
2. Disconnect the fluid return and
pressure hoses from the steering box
and allow to drain into a pan.
3. Disconnect the fluid return and
pressure hoses from the pump.
4. Raise the car on a hoist.
5. Remove the two bolts from the
left hand engine mount and one bolt
from the right hand engine mount
that attach the three tube clamps to
the crossmember.
6. Lower the tubes, clamps and
insulator assemblies from the car.
7. To remove the clamp and insulator assemblies from the tubes it is
necessary to compress the clamp and
insulator slightly with a pair of pliers
to release the locking tongue and

while compressed lever the two legs
of the clamp apart with a screw
driver. The clamp and insulator may
now be removed from the tubes.
Installation
8. Install the retaining clamps and
insulators on the tubes. When installed
on the insulators it is necessary to
compress the clamp sufficiently to
allow the locking tongue to snap into
place.
N.B. The fluid return hose must be
in the uppermost position in the in
sulators when fitted to the car.
9. Position the tube and hose assemblies on the crossmember, insert
the attaching bolts and torque to
specifications.
10. Lower the car.
11. Connect the fluid return hose
and pressure pipe to the steering box.
12. Connect the fluid return and
pressure hoses to the pump. Torque
all unions and clamps to specifica
tions.
13. Fill the pump to the correct
level with M2C33F Automatic transmission fluid.
14. Start the engine and turn the
steering wheel to each end of its
travel several times to cycle the
system. Then, check for fluid leaks.
15. Stop the engine and check the
power steering fluid level. Add fluid
as required.
3-26
EJ
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES

HOISnNG INSTRUCTIONS
steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
dow the adapten to contact the
steertaa llabp.
STEERING GEAR
Refer to Page 3-46 for detailed
instructions.
POWER STEERING PUMP

6-CYLINDER
Removal
1. Remove the filler cap from the
reservoir and remove the ftuid with
a suction gun
2. Discono'ect the ftuid return hose
from the reservoir.
3. DisconneCt the oil pressure hose
from the pump.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolts and
remove the drive belt from the pulley.
5. Remove 3 bolts retaining the
pump to the bracket and remove the
pump from the bracket.
Installation
1. Position the pump to the bracket and install the 3 retaining bolts.
2. Position the belt on the pulley
and adjust the belt tension to specification. Torque the retaining bolts
to specification.
3. Torque the outlet fitting hex
nut to specification. Then, connect the
pressure hose to the fitting and torque
the hose nut to specification.
4. Connect the return hose to the
reservOir and tighten the clamp.
5. Fill the pump reservoir to the
correct level with transmission ftuid
M2C33F . Start the engine and
tum the steering wheel to each end
of its travel several times to cycle
the system and -.:heck for leaks.
Check the fluid level and fill as

required and install the filler cap.
8..CYLINDER
Removal
1. Remove the fill cap from the

reservoir and remove the ftuid with a
suction gun.
2. Disconnect the ftuid return hose
from the reservoir.
3. Disconnect the oil pressure hose
from the pump.
4. Loosen the belt adjusting baUs

and nut and remove the drive belt
from the pump pulley.
5. Remove 3 bolts and 1 nut retaining the pump to the bracket and
remove the pump from the car.
Installation
1. Position the pump to the bracket and loosely install the 2 pivot bolts
and 2 adjusting bolts.
2. Position the drive belt on the
pulley and adjust the belt tension
to specification .
Tighten
the adjusting bolts and pivot bolts to
specification.
3. Torque the outlet fitting hex
nut to specification. Then, connect
the pressure hose to the fitting and
torque the hose nut to specifiCation.
4. Connect the return hose to the
reservoir and tighten the clamp.
5. Fill the pump reservoir to the
correct level with transmission ftuid
M2C 33F.
Start the engine and
tum the steering wheel to each end
of its travel several times to cycle
the system and check for leaks. Check
the ftuid level, fill as required, and
install the filler cap.
POWER STEERING PUMP

PULLEY
REMOVAL
Other tban puDey removal and reservoir or seal replacement, the pump
should not be disassembled but re
placed as a unit.
1. Drain as much of the ftuid as
possible from the pump through the
fill pipe.
2. Install a %-16 capscrew in the
end of the pump shaft to prevent
damage to the shaft end by the tool
screw.
3. Install the pulley remover tool,
T63L-10300-B on the pulley hub,
and place the tool and pump in a
vise as shown in Fig. 38
4. Hold the pump and rotate the
tool nut counterclockwise to remove
the pulley Fig. 38 .
INSTALLATION
1. Position the pulley to the pump
shaft and install fool 3A733-A as
shown in Fig. 39
2. Hold pump and rotate the tool
nut clockwise to install the pulley on
the shaft. The pulley will be ftush
with the end of the pump shaft. Install the pulley without in and out
pressure on the shaft to prevent
damage to internal thrust areas.
3. Remove the tool.
FIG. 38- Removing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
3-27
PART 3)- POWER STEERING

reservoir by tapping around the
flange with a wood block Fig. 40
4. Remove the reservoir 0-ring
seal, the outlet fitting gasket, and
the support stud copper gasket from
the pump.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new gasket on the outlet fitting, a new copper gasket on
the support stud, and a new reservoir
0-ring seal on the pump housing
plate Fig. 41. The old gaskets and
leal lbould never be re-used.
2. Apply vaseline to the reservoir
0-ring seal and to tbe inside edge of
the new reservoir flange. Do not
twist the 0-ring seaL
3. Position the reservoir over the
pump and align the reservoir with
the outlet fitting and the stud hole.
4. Install the reser,.oir on the
pump and 0-ring seal with a plastic
or rubber hammer and a block of
wood as shown in Fig. 42 . Tap at
FIG. 39- Installing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
6. Position the service indentification tag on the outlet fitting and in.
stall the outlet fitting hex nut. Torque
the out to specification (Part 3-7).
Do not exceed specificadon.
7. Install the stud out and torque
to specification.
OUTLET FITTING
GASKET
Too/ T57L SOOA
FIG. 41 -Gasket Locations
POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT
Reservoir replacement must be

done on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of work area and tools is
extremely important when repairing
any hydraulic unit. Thoroughly clean
the exterior of the pump with a
suitable cleaning solvent. Do not 1Jn.
merse tbe shaft oil leal In IOivat.
Plug the inlet and outlet openings
with plugs or masking tape before
cleaning the pump exterior or removing the reservoir.
REMOVAL
1. Position the pump in a bench
mounted holding fixture,
FIG. 40' -Removing Pump

Reservoir
2. Rotate the pump so the pulley

aide is facio& down and remove the
outlet fittin& hex nut. stud nuts, and
service identification tag.
3. Invert the pump so the pulley
side is facio& up and remove the
tbe rear of the reservoir and on the

outer edges only.
!. Inspect the assembly to be sure
the reservoir is evenly seated on the
pump housing plate.
FIG. 42 -Installing Reservoir

on Pump -Typical
I...
C)
j" ;
... t
~
I...
[
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<
'tJ
)(
43
4<4
45
11\---f-\-~-
...- ~ ~
ASSEMBLY 34 COMPRISES 22.23.2<4.35.36. AND 65
ASSEMBLY 19 COMPRISES 1.2.3A.5.6.7.89JOJ I AND 18
47
65
48
ASSEMBLY
2 .
b~--
~~
11:---.f
"
JldV
38
19 ASSEMBLY
(AOTATEO THROUOH IICt FOR CLARITY)
34
ASSEMBlY
_J"
rn"'
::<
$20
[i;
~
I
m
m
G')
"'z
(/)
"'tJ
c(/)
(/)
"c:.,,.,
1. Collar - Thrust.
2.
3.
4.
S.
6.
7.
8.
. 9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
Ring- Spacer.
Race- Thrust.
Follower - Wonn.
Sleeve- Eccentric.
Needle Roller.
Adjuster- Eccentric Sleeve.
Sector Shaft.
Screw -Adjusting.
Clip- Adjusting Screw Locking.
Screw- Drive.
Cover and Bush Assy.
Cover.
Screw and Lockwasher Assy.- Cov~r.
Plug- Cover.
Seal -Cover.
Bush - Bearing.
Pin.
Sector Shaft and Follower Assy.
Ball - Sealing.
Tube- Outlet Connection.
Seat - Inlet Connection.
Locknut- Rack Adjusting Screw.
Seal- Rack Adjusting Screw.
Screw - Rack Adjusting.
Pad - Rack Adjusting.
Bearing- Sector Shaft.
Cover - Piston.
Seal- Piston.
Piston Rack.
Piston Rack Assy.
Housing Assy. - Steering Gear.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
SO.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
51.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
68.
69.
Housing.
Bearing - Sector Shaft.
Seal - Sector Shaft.
Ring- Seal Back-up.
Clip- Retainer.
Dust Excluder- Sector Shaft.
Locknut - Bearing Adjusting Screw.
Screw- Bearin~ Adjusting.
Seal- Be11: l Adjusting Nut .
Race - ..l!eanng.
Cage - Bearing.
Wonn.
Wonn, Valve and Sleeve Assy.
Shim.
Seal - Coupling Sleeve.
Sleeve - Coupling.
Ring- Coupling Sleeve Retaining.
Seal - Sleeve.
Pin - Sleeve Drive.
Sleeve.
Seal- Sleeve.
Spacer- Sleeve.
Bearing- Roller.
Seal- Valve.
Torsion Bar.
Seal- Torsion Bar.
Spring- Coupling and Fail Safe.
Bush- Bearing.
Valve.
Dowel.
Seal - Noise Dampening.
Spring - Input Shaft.
Washer- Input Shaft.
3-29
3-30
THE POWER STEERING GEAR
DISASSEMBLY
The power steering gear is a precision machine. Therefore it is essential
that cleanliness be maintained at all
times during disassembly and assembly
of the gear, to prevent the ingress of
foreign matter which may subsequently affect the performance of
the gear. It is not good practice to
use rag for cleaning parts before
assembly into the gear. Preferably
parts should be washed in a petroleum based solvent, just prior to
assembly and allowed to drain dry.
A smear of power steering oil should
be applied to all rubber seals and
rubbing surfaces during assembly.
Use of Correct Tools - a list and
description of service tools is provided
in Group 21 and it is essential that
these tools be used when dismantling
or assembling the gear to ensure that
permanent damage is not done to the
components. The following service
work can only be carried out when
the gear has been removed from the
vehicle.
If a Pitman arm is still fitted to the
gear, it must first be removed with
the aid of a hydraulic press. See page
3-44. No attempt should be
made to prise the pitman arm off by
levering against the casting, otherwise
damage will result to the. sector shaft
seal bore causing subsequent leakage.
If the gear still contains oil, this must
first be removed by turning the box
upside down with the input shaft
sloping slightly downwards to position the inlet and outlet at the
lowest point of the gear and placing
a container under the inlet and 'Outlet
to catch the oil. Most of the oil can
be removed from the gear by turning
the input shaft from lock to lock
about 6 to 8 times. Some oil will still
remain inside the gear but this will be
drained when the top cover is removed as described later.
1. Secure the mbunting bracket
to the steering box and clamp in a
vice.
2. Loosen and remove the four
top cover bolts.
3. Slacken the rack adjusting
screw lock nut, and loosen the rack
adjusting screw one turn. (This is not
essential but greatly assists the removal and subsequent re-a-ssembly of
the sector shaft assembly by introducing clearance between rack and
sector teeth.)
4. Position the input shaft one
eighth of a turn off-centre towards
right lock.
.
5. Position the gear with the top
cover turned to the bottom and the

sector shaft sloping at an angle of
about 30 to the vertical then gently
tap the end of the sector shaft with a
copper mallet whilst holding one
hand under the top cover. As the top
cover seal slides out from the bore in
the steering gear housing, position a
container to catch the remaining oil
as it drains out. Once the oil has
drained the gear should then be positioned with both input and sector
shafts horizontal.
6. Pull the top cover off the end
of the sector shaft (which will also
release a small amount of oil from
between the end of the sector shaft
and the top cover).
7. The sector shaft assembly can
then be withdrawn manually through
the top opening of the housing. Take
particular . care in this operation not
to allow any part of the sector to
scratch the top cover bore of the
housing as this is a sealing surface for
the top cover seal.
8. If a flange is fitted to the input
shaft of the gear this must be removed
with a puller working against the end
of the torsion bar.
9. Using the Tool No. XA3745A unscrew the piston cover ensuring that the spanner is held ftrmly
against the cover at all times. This
cover may be very difficult to undo,
due to the rubber seal clinging to the
cover and housing. Two people may
be required to undo this cover; one
holding the spanner firmly against the
cover while the other applies a torque
to the handle. An extension tube may
even be needed over the handle of
the spanner.
10. Push the piston rack out of the
bore from the inside of the box. Be
careful not to damage the teflon seal
on the piston as it passes over the
threads at the end of the piston bore.
11. Lift the rack pad out of the
rack adjusting screw.
12. Set gear with input shaft and
sector Shaft bore horizontal.
13. Slacken the worm bearing adjustment screw lock nut, Tool No.
XA- 3707A, undo and remove the
bearing adjustment screw using Tool
.
No. XA- 3537A.
14. Lightly tap the end of the torsion bar to remove the worm, valve
and sleeve assembly, catching the seal,
bearing race and cage as they come
out of the adjusting screw bore. Withdraw the assembly being careful not
to damage the teflon seals on the
sleeve as the assembly is drawn out of
the housing.
15. Using Tool No. XA- 3526B,

knock out the sector shaft dust seal,
this will expose the circlip which is
removed with a pair of circlip pliers.
The seal, backing ring and sector shaft
seal can now be removed by hand.
16. Using the Tool No. XA3576A, press out the sector shaft
bearings. The bearings may be pushed
out in either direction.
17. The input shaft bearing is
pressed into the bearing spacer and
these are removed as an assembly
from the housing using Tool No.
XA- 3'5 26B. The service tool should
be tapped lightly alternately against
opposite sides of the bearing spacer.
(The bearing spacer is a zinc die casting, easily damaged if forced excessively.) The bearing and its spacer is
driven inwards into the housing by the
service tool, which is entered through
the input shaft seal. Care should be
taken not to damage the sealing lip
of the seal if it is proposed to reuse
the seal.
.
18. Once the bearing spacer and
bearing are removed, the bearing can
be pushed from the bearing spacer
using a suitable mandrel.
.
I 9. The input shaft seal can now
be removed using the same tool and
tapping the seal inwards into the
housing alternatively on opposite
sides.
20. Remove the worm bearing race
from the housing by lightly tapping
with tool entered through the input
shaft end of the bore. Shims may be
found in the bearing bore when the
race is removed, place these to one
side for use during assembly.
INSPECTION AND OVERHAUL OF
COMPONENT ASSEMBLIES
HOUSING
Wash housing in a petroleum based
solvent and inspect for cracks. Check
the seal areas and the piston rack bore
for damage or scores.
SECTOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY
A selective assembly technique is used
in the build up of the worm follower
and its bearings into the sector shaft,
therefore these items are not serviced
individually. Little load is concerned,
but, in the rare case of wear or
damage to the follower or its bearings,
a new sector shaft assembly complete
must be fitted.
Check all bearing, seal and thrust
surfaces for wear or damage. Check
the worm follower bearings for roughness or end play. Check the worm
follower and sector teeth for scoring.
Check the preload screw for binding.
PART 33- POWER STEERING

Caution: Do not over wind tfie preload screw when checking for bind
or the eccentric sleeve adjuster may
become disengaged from the screw.
Check the pitman arm splines and
thread, if reusing the sector shaft
remove any burrs on the splines with
a fine abrasive stone.
PISTON RACK
Inspect the piston, seal and rack
teeth for wear or damage. To replace
a faulty seal proceed as follows.
1. Remove the teflon seal by
squeezing between the thumb and
fmger to raise the seal into a hump at
one point. Use a small flat blunt screw
driver to slip under this hump and
prise seal from its groove. Do not use
a sharp instrument, as this may
damage the groove in the piston and
result in subsequent seal leakage. In
general the seal cannot be reused.
2. Replace with a new seal, by
feeding the seal in from one side and
running a thumb around the outside
of the piston, easing the seal carefully
into the groove. Push the rack and
seal assembly into Tool No. XA3544A, and leave for S-10 minutes.
(This is important otherwise seal will
not pass through the threaded end of
the piston bore when reassembling
the piston rack assembly to the gear.)
3. Check that the seal is free to
float radially in the piston groove
otherwise effective sealing will not be
achieved.
3-31
Fig. 44
Piston Rack Assembly in Seal Contractor- Tool No. XA-3544A.
WORM, VALVE AND SLEEVE

ASSEMBLY
Inspect the valve, sleeve and teflon
. seals, worm track and worm bearings
for wear or damage. Check that no
free play exists between the sleeve
and the worm.
The major components of this
assembly; namely, worm, valve,
sleeve and torsion bar cannot be
serviced individually as these are inherently mated at the drilling and
fitting of the pin in the "trimming"
operation during manufacture (equalising the steering efforts in dght and
left turns).
A. Sleeve
1. Remove the sleeve complete
with its teflon seals, rubber seal and
drive pin from the assembly by holding the assembly vertically by the
sleeve with the worm uppermost.
Strike the torsion bar end of the assembly sharply downwards on to a
fum block of wood. The sleeve (still
held in the hand) will follow through
down the valve, disengaging from the
coupling sleeve and slot in the worm.
(During this operation a small quan-
Fig. 45
Worm, Valve and Sleeve
tity of oil will be released from

inside the coupling sleeve).
2. Inspect the noise dampening
seal on the coupling sleeve end of the
valve and replace if necessary. This is
a rubber seal and may be easily
replaced by stretching over the valve.
The teflon seals are best removed
by cutting diagonally with a sharp
knife, but care must be taken to avoid
scratching the sides of the grooves
otherwise subsequent leakage will
result.
When fitting new teflon seals Tool
No. XA-.3589A must be used, and
the centre seal must be fitted first.
The seals are more easily fitted if
warmed in hot water immediately

prior to pushing over the fitting tool
When the teflon seals have been
fitted, push the sleeve in to the
shrinking tool and leave for 5-10
minutes.
The rubber seal is easily removed
and replaced by stretching over the
end of the sleeve and can be reused
provided it shows no sign of deterioration.
Care must be taken in refitting the
seal (or a new seal) that it is not
twisted on its side or inside out,
otherwise early failure will result.
The drive pin is not replaceable.
Replace the sleeve assembly by slip-
J-32
ping it over the valve, drive pin end

flrst, until it is about to enter the
coupling sleeve. Care should be taken
in this operation not to damage
either the bore of the sleeve or the
outside diameter of the valve, as a
very flne working clearance of .0002
- .0006 inch on diameter is held.
Before entering the sleeve into the
coupling sleeve flt the wedge Tool
No. XA- 3771A behind the coupling sleeve (Fig. 47) between coupling
sleeve and bearing cage, to ensure
that the coupling sleeve is held furnly
against its retaining ring. Check that
the fail safe and coupling spring is
concentric in the bore of the worm,
with the leg of the spring in the
drive slot and the spring rotated
clockwise (as viewed) to position the
leg against the side of the slot (Fig.
48) . . Line up the drive pin of the
sleeve with the gap between the leg
of the spring and the opposite side of
the slot and "feel" the sleeve into the
coupling sleeve until the pin engages
with the slot. To fully engage the
sleeve, the worm, valve and sleeve
assembly should be held vertically
with worm to the bottom and struck
sharply downwards onto a fum block
of wood, ensuring that the sleeve is
being held at the instant of impact
to drive it fully home against the end
of the worm.
It is important that the pin is fumly
held in the drive slot ofthe worm by
the spring 2 s this spring ensures that
no slack can develop between the
worm and sleeve, otherwise the steering gear will not function smoothly.
After assembly, freedom from slack
in this coupling should be confumed
by lightly gripping the worm in a
copper-jawed vice and feeling the
sleeve for rotational slack in either
direction.
B. Valve, Coupling Sleeve and Ball
Cage Assembly
Further dis-assembly of the worm
valve and sleeve assembly necessitates
un-pinning of the valve. Before unpinning the valve, fust remove the
sleeve as described above and mark
the relative position of valve and
torsion bar to prevent any possibility
of the valve being refltted 1800 out
of position.
1. Support the end of the valve
over an opening slightly larger than
the pin diameter (5/32") and using a
pin punch drive the pin completely
out of valve and torsion bar.
2. Pull the valve off over the torsion bar. The tapered Delrin splitbush, flat washer and conical spring
will now be loose on the torsion bar
Fig. 46
Sleeve in Contractor Tool No. XA-3589-8
Fig. 47
Tool No. XA-3771-A
in Place on Worm
Fig. 48
Fail Safe & Coupling Spring Location

and may be removed by hand. Remove any burr around the hole in the
torsion bar at this time to minimise
damage during assembly.
3. The fail safe and coupling
spring can be removed if required at
this stage. Pay particular attention to
the way in which the spring is fitted,
a~ if fitted in reverse, the sleeve will
be wrongly positioned when reassembled which will cause a malfunction of the gear.
4. To remove the coupling sleeve
turn the retaining ring until one end
appears in the slot in the end of the
worm. Hook this end of the ring and
disengage it from its groove in the
worm. Withdraw the coupling sleeve
from the end of the worm, which
then allows removal of the bearing
cage.
5. The coupling sleeve seal can

now be removed if required.
6. No further disassembly is possible as the torsion bar is pressed into
the worm and cannot be removed.
7. To replace the coupling sleeve
seal stretch the old seal out of the
groove in the end of the worm and
fit a new seal being careful to avoid
twisting the seal on its side or inside
out.
8. To reassemble the worm and
valve assembly replace the ball cage,
coupling sleeve and retaining ring in
that order. The seal on the end of the
worm should be smeared with a little
power steering fluid to assist the
fitment of the coupling sleeve and
after fitment, the gap in the retaining
ring should be turned to coincide
with the slot in the end of the worm.
9. Examine the seal on the end of
the torsion bar and replace it if it
shows any signs of deterioration or
cutting due to disassembly. Examine
the noise dampenin:S seal on the end
of the valve and replace if necessary.
Position the fail safe and coupling
spring on the valve exactly as it was
before removal. Position the conical
spring over the torsion bar with the
large end in the bore of the worm.
Place the split bush over the torsion
bar with the larger diameter toward
the worm. Pass the valve over the
torsion bar and locate the bush in
the end of the valve. Align the marks
made prior to removal on the valve
and torsion bar and push the valve
fully home into the lost-motion
splines of the worm. If the angular
position is correct, the master spline
on the end of the valve will line up
with the slot on the end of the worm.
The pin can now be refitted by

pressing in, between the jaws of a
vice.
Fitting a New Worm, Valve and
Sleeve Assembly.
If a new worm, valve and sleeve
assembly is to be fitted, it will be
necessary to adjust the axial position
of the assembly in the housing to
ensure that the centre point of the
worm coincides with the on centre
position of the gear. This position of
the worm valve and sleeve assembly
in the housing is adjustable by the
number of shims fitted behind the
bearing race in the housing assembly.
However, as the position of the worm
valve and sleeve assembly is varied,
so the distance the bearing spacer is
pushed into the housing must be
varied to maintain a clearance of .010
inch between the end of the sleeve
and bearing spacer. The procedure is
as follows:1. Remove the sleeve from the
new worm, valve and sleeve assembly
as described above.
2. Remove the bearing race from
the housing complete with any shims
which may be fitted and refit the
bearing race without any shims using
the appropriate service tools.
3. Enter the worm and valve assembly into the housing followed by
the cage assembly, race and bearing
adjusting screw. Tighten the bearing
adjusting screw sufficiently to remove
any slack (preload is not necessary at
this stage).
4. Refit the sector shaft assembly
and top cover (the seal from the top
cover may be removed to assist this
assembly).
5. Fit the pitman arm and nut to
the end of the sector shaft and
tighten the nut sufficiently to eliminate any slack in the splines.
3-33
6. Ensure that the gear can be
rotated from lock to lock, backing
off any preload on the worm follower
if necessary, then apply preload to
the worm follower until slack is just
eliminated at one point near the on
centre position {this may not necessarily be exactly on centre at this
stage).
7. Measure the actual slack at 6"
radius on the pitman arm with the
gear positioned alternatively one turn
(of the input shaft) to the left and
one turn to the right from the 'on
centre' position.
8. The clearance at the left turn
should be greater than that at the
right turn. Divide the difference between these actual readings by 5 to
obtain the correct thickness of shim
stack to be fitted.
9. Remove the sector shaft assembly and worm and valve assembly
and inner race from the housing. Fit
the number of shims {as determined
above) behind the inner bearing race
and reassemble the worm and valve
assembly and sector shaft assembly
and repeat the procedure above.
10. If the difference in slack is less
than .020 inch then the shim stack is
acceptable. If the left hand slack is
greater than the right slack by more
than this amount, divide the difference by 5 and add this amount of
additional shims. If the right hand
slack is greater than the left hand by
more than .020 inch divide the difference by 5 and remove this thickness of shims from the stack.
11. Confmn again that the difference in slacks are within .020 inch.
Fig. 49
Checking Steering Gear Slack
3-34
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & lYRES
12. Remove the sector shaft assembly and worm and valve assembly.
13. Refit the sleeve to the worm
and valve assembly and position the
.010 service shim over the valve
against the end face of the sleeve.
14. Enter the worm, valve and
sleeve assembly complete with service
shim into the housing, fit the bearing
cage assembly and race and tighten
the bearing adjusting screw to force
the complete assembly against the
bearing spacer. This will ensure that
the bearing spacer is pushed further
into its bore if the stack up length of
the worm valve and sleeve assembly is
greater than its predecessor.
15. The worm valve and sleeve assembly should then be withdrawn and
the service shim removed from the
valve.
(Note: If the stack up of new worm
valve and sleeve assembly is less than
its predecessor, additional clearance
will exist between the sleeve and the
bearing spacer, this however will not
be detrimental.)
Inlet Port Seat and Outlet Tube
1. The inlet port seat and outlet
tube can both be removed if required
by pulling out of the housing.
2. New components are fitted
using the Tool No. XA- 374309A
for the inlet port seat and Tool No.
XA-3713A for the outlet tube.
Rack Pad Adjusting Screw and Seal
1. The rack pa,d adjusting screw
should only be removed when the
gear is stripped, to prevent any possibility of the rack pad being dislodged
within the assembled gear.
2. The seal however can be replaced on an assembled gear, by
removing the locknut and undoing the
screw one to two turns to allow the
seal to be removed from the groove
in the screw.
3. Fit the new seal and replace
the locknut, then reset preloads.
RE-ASSEMBLY
1. Replace the worm bearing race
in the housing together with the shims
removed (if any) or the predetermined
number of shims if a new worm,
valve and sleeve assembly i~ to be
fitted (see page 3-33). Use the sleeve
Tool No. XA- -3589-B to seat the
bearing in the housing.
2. Replace the sector shaft
bearings.
To fit a new outer (narrow) bearing first fit the spacing washer Tool
No. XA- 3576A to the assembly
mandrel Tool No. XA- 3576A
followed by the spacer sleeve checking
that the spigot on the spacing washer
Fig. 50
Installing Sector Shaft Bearing
Fig. 51
Installing Input Shaft Seal
is adjacent to the sleeve. Next fit the
bearing onto the mandrel and insert
assembly through the top aperture of
the housing. Start the bearing into
the bore and fit the guide Tool No.
XA- 3576-A2 for the mandrel to
the top aperture of the housing. Press
the bearing fully home under a rack
or hydraulic press. Withdraw the
mandrel from the bearing, remove
the guide from the top aperture and
remove the bearing spacer washer and
sleeve.
To fit a new inner (wide) bearing,
first fit the spacing washer to the
mandrel followed by the bearing.
Ensure that the spigot on the spacing
washer is adjacent to the bearing (this
will ensure that the bearing is slightly
below the thrust face inside the

housing when pushed home). Press
the bearing fully home. Withdraw the
mandrel from the bearing.. remove
the guide from the top aperture and
remove the spacer washer.
Reassembly of the sector shaft
seal, backing ring, circlip and dust seat
is carried out after refitment of the
sector shaft.
3. Fit a new input shaft seal to
the Tool No. XA- 3525A. Enter the
mandrel through the bearing adjusting
screw bore and knock the seal in,
checking first that the seal is fitted
with the pressure sealing lip towards
the inside of the housing and the
dust sealing lip to the outside.
The seal is best fitted with the in

put shaft bore of the housing posi
tioned horizontally, then it can be
easily seen when the seal is fully in
against the retaining shoulder of the
bore. It shorlld be noted that this
shoulder is very small and an excessive
assembly load could push the seal
right through the bore making the seal
unusable. Under no circumstances can
a seal be fitted by pushing it straight
into its bore from the input shaft end.
4. To replace the input shaft
bearing, first press the bearing into
the bearing spacer ensuring that it is
pushed hard up to the shoulder in the
bearing spacer bore. It is preferable to
use a new bearing spacer when fitting
a new bearing as a reused spacer often
fails to provide any interference fit
between the bearing and/or the
housing. If a loose fit does result, a
new bearing spacer must be used.
S. Fit the bearing and spacer as
sembly into the housing using the
same service mandrel as used for the
seal, but only push the assembly to
within about one tenth of an inch
from the seal. This can be observed
by parUy withdrawing the mandrel
and looking in through the input
. shaft seal.
6. The final positioning of the
bearing spacer is carried out by plac
ing the .010 inch service shim at the
end of the sleeve on the worm valve
and sleeve assembly and entering the
worm valve and sleeve assembly into
the housing. Fit the ball cage, race
and bearing adjusting screw and
tighten the bearing adjusting screw to
push the assembly fully home.
7. Remove the worm, valve and

sleeve assembly and discard the ser
vice shims. The bearing spacer will
now be correctly positioned to pro
vide a working clearance for the
sleeve.
8. The function of the bearing
spacer is to prevent any possibility of
the sleeve becoming disengaged from
the worm and as such it constitutes an
important safety feature of the gear.
9. As an additional safety feature,
the bearing spacer has a flange on its
outside diameter to limit the maxi
mum distance it can be pushed into
the housing, in the event of a failure
of the high pressure seal in the
coupling sleeve. It is important that
the above procedure is adhered to
and no short cuts taken. If in doubt
as to the working clearance between
spacer and sleeve, this can be checked
by placing a small piece of plasticine
on the end of the sleeve, pushing the
worm valve and sleeve assembly fully
into place and immediately with
drawing it. The plasticine will be
flattened to the thickness of the
clearance existing.
10. Wrap one layer of plastic insulating tape around the valve splines to
prevent damage to the valve seal when
the worm, valve and sleeve assembly
is being fitted.
11. Position the steering gear housing with the input shaft and sector
shaft bores horizontal.
12. Enter the worm valve and
sleeve assembly in through the bearing
adjusting screw bore and feed the end
of the valve through the valve seal
fig. 52
Bearing Spacer Shim in Place on Valve
3-35
being careful not to turn the seal

inside out. Push the assembly home
with the thumbs - do not hammer
under any circumstances.
13. Turn the steering gear so that
the input shaft is vertical and the bore
for the bearing adjusting screw upper
most.
14. Drop the bearing cage in posi
tion on the worm track. .
15. Enter the bearing race into the
bearing race bore and push carefully
home, keeping the race square as it is
pushed down the bore. Only light
tapping should be required; if efforts
become high remove the bearing race
again by tapping out the worm valve
and sleeve assembly and start again.
N.B. It is advisable to break the sharp
edge on the bearing with a fine stone
to avoid damage to the adjusting
screw bore during fitting.
16. With the bearing race fully
home, place the rubber seal on the
race and fit the bearing adjusting
screw. Tighten the adjusting screw
sufficiently to remove end float. (Pre
load is not necessary at this stage.)
17. Set the gear with the input
shaft and sector shaft bores horizontal.
18. Position the rack pad in the
rack adjusting screw.
19. Carefully enter the piston rack
assembly into the bore of the housing,
being careful not to allow the rack to
touch the bore and support the end
of the rack from inside the housing,
whilst easing the teflon seal past the
threads at the end of the bore. The
piston may be cocked slightly to
assist in passing the teflon seal past
thre~rl~ .
0. Position the rack in its mid
p<;snlon ready for assembly of the
sector shaft.
21. Refit the piston cover ensuring
that the rubber seal is not damaged.
If the seal is damaged it must be
replaced with a new seal. Using the
Tool No. XA-374SA tighten the
piston cover to 2040 ft. lbs torque,
ensuring that the spanner is pushed
firmly against the cover at all times.
(Refitting of this cover may be left
until fitting of the sector shaft is
completed if required.)
22. Position the steering gear assembly so that the input shaft and
sector shaft bores are horizontal.
23. Check that the rack pad is cor
rectly positioned in the rack adjusting
screw, and position the piston rack in
its mean position; i.e. with the centre
tooth gap immediately opposite the
sector shaft bearing bush. (i.e., in line
with the rack pad.)
3-36

SETTING PRELOADS ON THE
STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 53. Centre Tooth Gap

of Rack in Line with Sector Shaft Bush
24. If the original sector shaft seal
is still in position it is in order to
assemble the sector shaft directly
through the seal, provided the splines
are smoothed to remove sharp edges
or covered with plastic tape. If however, a new sector shaft seal is to be
fitted, it is advisable to fit the new
seal after the sector shaft has been
fitted, using plastic tape to mask the
sector spline and push the seal home.
25. Enter the sector shaft assembly
carefully through the top cover aperture into the sector shaft bearing.
Keep the rack parallel to the bottom
of the box and roll it slightly to open
the mesh at entry. It is essential to
see that the centre tooth of the sector
shaft is aligned with the tooth gap in
the rack as the sector shaft is pushed
in. Use a torch if necessary. At the
same time as the rack and sector
teeth are engaging, the input shaft
will need to be turned to align the
groove in the worm with the follower
on the sector shaft assembly. The
sector shaft assembly must never be
hammered in during this operation.
If difficulty is encountered, slacken
the rack adjusting screw as described
under "Preload Adjustments'?
26. Position the gear slightly off
centre to ensure the sector shaft is
not displaced by any preload between
the follower and worm. Then fit the
top cover over the sector shaft journal
and enter it into the steering gear
housing. A new seal should be fitted
if the old seal shows any sign of
fretting or if it has lost its sharp
corners. Care should be taken as the
seal is entering the aperture to ensure
it is not pinched. Once entered, the
top cover may be lightly tapped
home. A smear of power steering oil

on the seal will greatly assist the fitment of the top cover.
27. Fit the four screws securing
the top cover but do not tighten.
28. Remove the recessed head plug
from the top cover and position the
gear on centre. Force the top cover
back against the housing aperture by
applying a temporary follower preload of 8-12 inch ounces (to avoid
subsequent loss of preload in service
due to shifting of the cover) and with
the gear still op. centre, tighten the
four top cover bolts to 30 ft. lbs
torque. The recessed head plug will
be replaced after preload adjustment.
(Refer instructions for setting preloads.)
29. With the sector shaft splines
covered with one layer of plastic
tape fit the sector shaft seal, with the
lips towards the housing,
Fit the backing ring with its rounded
side towards the seal and its flat side
towards the circlip. (This is important
to ensure that the circlip is loaded
close to the groove in the housing
otherwise it will fatigue in service.
The rounding of one side of the
backing ring is a legacy of the blanking operation during its . manufacture). Finally, fit the circlip then the
dust seal using the special service
tool.
30. Install the flexible coupling to
the input shaft, making sure to line
up tpe master spline, the lock plate
and nut. Torque to specification.
31 . Set all preloads as described
on following pages.
General
During production of the steering
gear assembly preloads are set slightly
higher than in service to allow for
initial 'bed-in' of mating components.
These higher preload figures are given
below in brackets and should only be
used where new components are
being fitted to the steering gear.
Before setting preloads, the gear
should be substantially drained qf
power steering fluid, otherwise the
readings obtained will be too high
because of the pumping action of the
piston moving oil from one end of
the cylinder to the other. Most consistent results are obtained if the box
is warm.
In order to establish the correct
preloads the sequence of preload
settings following should be strictly
adhered to as each reading obtained
is a cumulative reading of the preloads
set before. The gear must be removed
from the vehicle to set preloads and
should preferably be mounted in the
special service ftxture in a vice with
the input and sector shafts horizontal.
First, undo and remove the plug from
the top cover. Position the gear
roughly 'on centre'. (The gear is 'on
centre' when it is positioned midway
between full left and right lock; in
this position the blocked splines on
the sector shaft lie parallel and at
right angles to the plane of the
mounting feet and the flat on the
input shaft is in line with the inlet
and outlet ports.) The socket head of
the adjusting screw for the worm
follower will now be visible through
the top cover plug hole. Turn this
screw 2 to 3 turns anti-clockwise to
remove any preload from the worm
follower, at the same time keeping
pressure on the Allen key to hold the
adjusting screw head against the end
of the sector. Loosen the lock nut on
the bearing adjusting screw and undo
the bearing adjusting screw
to 1
turn to remove any preload from the
worm bearings. Loosen the rack adjusting screw locknut and undo the rack
adjusting, screw to 1 turn. This will
remove any preload between the rack
and the sector teeth. The gear is now
ready for setting the preloads, which
are measured at the input shaft using
a torque meter (having a range 0 to
20 inch pounds in both clockwise and
anti-clockwise direction).
1. Input Seal Friction
Turn the input shaft of the steering
gear to either left or right lock. If the
input shaft is oscillated 4 or 5 in
3-37
Fig. 54
Preload Adjusting Points
either direction at the locks, a short

interval of slack will be observed
where the worm follower and rack
and sector teeth are exhibiting backlash. Note the maximum torque reading in this slack interval. This should
be approximately ~ to 1 inch pound.
2. Worm Bearing Preload
Whilst oscillating the input shaft in
this same slack interval, the bearing
adjusting screw should be tightened
until an increase in torque is noticed.
The adjusting screw should be locked
to achieve an increase over the input
seal friction of 1 to 2 inch pounds
(for new parts 2 to 3 inch pounds).
Additionally, note the actual torque
reading.
3. Gar Drag
input shaft over a greater angle (be~ to

turn off centre. Oscillate the
input shaft over a greater angle between the limits ~ to
turn off
centre) and observe the maximum
torque reading. It will be noticed
that this reading is slightly higher
than the previous reading by about
~inch pound (for a new gear 1 to 1~
inch pounds). This additional torque
is due to frictional drag between
worm and follower, rack and sector
teeth, the piston seal in the housing
bore and the sector shaft seal. Be
careful not to measure this torque
any closer to centre than a ~ turn,
otherwise the results will be influen-
Fig. 55
Checking Preloads - Typical
ced ~y the changing ratio of the

worm. It may also be observed that a
slightly higher reading is produced
when turning the gear left. This is
due to the 10 inclination of the
piston when the gear is set horizontal.
The piston is pushed up the inclination on a left turn and down the
inclination on a right turn.
4. Worm Follower Preload
Bring the gear to the on centre
position which will bring the worm
follower adjusting screw accessible
through the hole in the top cover.
Turn the adjusting screw a % turn at
a time until an increase in torque
reading is noted when oscillating the
input shaft 5 either side of centre.
Ensure that the Allen key is withdrawn from the adjusting screw
during oscillation of the input shaft,
otherwise damage may result to the
threads for the top cover !lug. The
preload should be adjuste until an
increase of 3 to 4 inch pounds is
achieved over the last actual reading.
(For new components 6 to 7 inch
pounds.) Note the actual reading.
Replace the plug in the top cover and
tighten to 7-9 foot pound torque.
5. Rack and Sector Tooth Preload

With the gear on centre oscillate
the input shaft 5 degrees either side of
centre and sj.owly turn the rack
adjusting screw clockwise until an
increase in preload is observed. When

an increase of 3 to 4 inch pounds
(for new components 6 to 1 inch
pounds) is observed, hold the rack
adjusting screw with an Allen key
and tighten the rack adjusting screw
locknut. This adjustment is very sensitive and some trial and error will be
required to achieve the correct preload after the locknut is tightened.
The locknut should be tightened to
30 foot pounds torque.
6. Final Check
As a fmal check, turn the box from
lock to lock to ensure that there are
no 'hang-ups'. Sensible preload should
occur over a broad angle of approximately % turn either side of centre,
with the highest preload occurring
through centre.
Refitment of Gear to Vehicle
The gear must always be refitted
to the vehicle so that the gear is 'on
centre' when the vehicle is tracking
straight ahead. This is important as it
ensures that the peak in the ratio
curve of the gear occurs when driving
straight ahead and the ratio change is
then symmetrical in right and left
turns.
Hence first 'centre' the steering
wheel then make all tracking corrections by adjustment of the steering
side rods only.
"
3-38
PART
34
STEERING COLUMNS AND

LINKAGE
Section
1 Description ... .. .. ... ... ... ... ... . ..
2 In-car Adjustments .. .. ... ... ... ... . ..
3 Steering Column Removal & Replacement
Page
3-38
3-39
.. 3-40
Section
4 Major Repair Operations ... .. ...
S Ignition Lock Replacement... . ...
6 Steering Linkage Repair... .. : .. : ...
7 Pitman Arm Replacement Manual
and Power Steering r- ...
.. .. ...
... - ... ..
...... .,.
Page
3-41
3-41
... 3-43
... ... ... ... .., 3-44
DESCRIPTION
The steering column which in

eludes a combination steering/gear
shift/ignition lock is of the collapsible
type to lessen the possibility of
injury to the driver of the vehicle,
should be become involved in an
accident.
nie lower end of the steering
column tube at the bellows area may
collapse up to approximately eight (8)
inches upon a hard impact.
The shift tube and steering shaft
are provided with spring clips
which will shear and allow them to
collapse upon impact.
The steering column upper mounting brackets are provided with
breakaway retainers which allow the
column to break free under impact.
Once the steering column has been
collapsed, a complete new column
must be installed with new brackets.
The steering/gear shift/ignition
lock is situated to the right of the
steering column. The main body of
the lock is bolted to the steering
column outer tube and is covered by
a shroud which contains the various
key positions marked on the mask
surrounding the barrel.
To engage the steering/gear shift
lock on column shift vehicles the gear
FIG. 56 -Slots in tube
FIG. 57 -Manual Trans column
shift must be positioned in park.

(Automatic) or Reverse (Manual).
In the locked position the locking
plunger protrudes through a slot in
the gear shift tube and into a groove
in the steering shaft locking sleeve.
(See Fig. 56.)

The steering/gear shift/ignition
lock must be in the locked position
before the key can be removed.
PART 3-4-
EJ IN-CAR
STEERING COLUMN & LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTS
STEERING WHEEL REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect the negative cable
from the battery.
2. Working from the underside
of the steering wheel spoke, remove
the crash pad attaching screws. Lift
the crash pad from the wheel.
Remove the hom ring by turning it
counterclockwise.
3. Remove the steering wheel nut
and then remove the wheel using a
tool made up to the dimensions in
Fig. 59, or using Litchfield tool
No E201
Do not use a knock off type

steering wheel puller or strike
the end of the steering shaft with
a hammer. Striking the puller
or shaft will damage the collapsible column or bearing.
2.. Remov~ the steering wheel as

outlmed preVIously.
3. Rem~v~ the turn indicator
lever and WU'mg cover.
~ Remove. the turn in?icator
s~tch attaching screws. Lift ~e
switch over the end of the steermg
shaft and place it to one si~e.
S. Remove the . snap rmg from
the top of the steermg shaft.
6. . Loosen the two ~es-tosteet:mg column tube attaching bolts
to disen~ge them from the tube. .
7. Ruse the flange upward (if
necessary, tap the steermg shaft
lightly with a plastic hammer to free
the bearing and flange from the shaft).
8. Remove the bearing and insulator from the flange.
INSTALLATION
1. Install flange bolts (square
head) in flange if they were removed.
Tum the nuts onto the bolts one
complete turn only.
2. Position the flange onto the
steering column tube.
3. Engage the two flange bolt
heads with the square holes in the
column tube. then tighten the two
attaching nuts to specification.
4. Position the bearing and insulator on the shaft. Work it down onto
the shaft as far as possible, then place
R piece of f ID x 21 inch pipe over
the end of the shaft and install the
steering wheel attaching nut (Fig. 61).
S. Tighten the nut until the bearing is seated in the flange, then re-
4. Transfer all serviceable parts

to the new steering wheel.
S. Position the steering wheel on
the shaft so that the alignment mark
on the hub of the wheel is adjacent to
the one on the shaft. Install a new
locknut and torque it to specifications.
8. Install the hom ring and
crash pad.
STEERING COLUMN UPPER
BEARING REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the hom and tum
indicator wires at the connector.
r
11-e,
3-39
move the nut and pipe from the shaft.

8. Position the turn signal switch
on the flange, install the three attaching screws and refit the wiring cover.
7. Install the steering wheel as
outlined previously.
STEERING COLUMN ALIGNMENT
A condition of high shift or steering effort may be experienced caused
by improper alignment of the energy
absorbing steering column.
The following procedure outlines
the steps necessary to correctly re~
align the column.
It is recommended that before
attempting realignment, the toe plate
(column retainer) to dash panel
fastener holes be inspected for a
binding or misalignment condition.
If the condition described above
could be attributed to this area, file
or ream the toe plate holes for
greater clearance.
1. Check the clearance between
--.;.:.--tf
2j" .......
FIG. 60- Steering Wheel

Removal
NUT
11/32" ~lA.
f"
U.N.F.
NUT
WELDED TO PLATE
~--11"--.,.f
USE
FIG. 59
2 OFF 5/16"- 24 U.N.F. 4" L.G.

I OFF j" U.N.F. BOLT & NUT
STEERING WHEEL PULLER DIMENSIONS
G 1497 A
FIG. 61 - Installing Upper

Bearing
3-40
GROUP 1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & JYRES
the steering shaft and the shift tube

at the lower end of the column. The
specified minimum clearance is 0. 12
inches.
2. Loosen the toe plate (column
retainer) to dash panel bolts and inspect for binding or misalignment. If
the conditions described above can be
attributed to this area, file or ream
the toe plate holes for greater
clearance.
EJ STEERING
3. Loosen the two bolts steering

column support bracket to pedal
bracket.
4. Loosen the two bolts steering
column clamp to steering column
bracket assembly.
5. Check the steering shaft to
shift tube clearance and set to
specification.
6. Tighten the toe plate to dash
panel bolts to specification (4-6
lbs. ft).
7. Tighten the steering column
clamp to support bracket bolts to
specification (10 to 20 lbs. ft).
8. Tighten the two steering support brackets to ped41 bracket nuts

to specification (28-42 lbs. ft).
9. Recheck to ensure the steering
shaft to shift tube clearance has not
altered.
COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery cable

from the negative post.
2. Disconnect the turn signal
switch wires at the connector.
3. Disconnect the ignition switch
wires at the connector.
4. Disconnect the transmission
control rod(s) from the lever(s) at the
lower end of the column.
5. Remove the two nuts steering
shaft flange to flexible coupling.
6. Remove the nuts and bolts
that secure the column retainer and
seal at the toe plate.
7. Disconnect the nuts that secure
the column upper and lower brackets
to the brake pedal suooort bracket
and the dash panel. (Fig. 62).
8. Lift the column from the

vehicle. Transfer parts to the new
column as required, leaving the
column clamp nuts fingertight.
of the column.
5. Tighten the toe plate to dash
panel bolts to specification.
6. Tighten the column clamp to
upper support bracket nuts to specification.
7. Remove the fs-w dia. rod from
the coupling.
8. Connect the transmission control rod(s) to the lever(s) at the lower
end of the column and adjust.
9. Connect the turn signal switch
wires.
10. Connect the ignition switch
wires.
11. Connect the battery cable.
12. Check the operation of the
switches.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the steering column

in the vehicle, engaging the flexible
coupling bolts in the holes of the
steering shaft flange.
2. Insert a fa- w dia. rod between
the fabric ring and the steering shaft
flange.
3. Install but do not tighten the
nuts that secure the column upper
and lower brackets to the brake pedal
support bracket and the dash panel.
4. Check the steering shaft to
shift tube clearance at the lower end
\."------
-'
'-~
/ -~ -
./
-111-11 .. ,.
FIG. 62 -Installation Steering Column
~-- "'
PART 3-4- STEERING COLUMN
rJ
& LINKAGE
3-41
STEERING SHAn REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL
t. Remove the column from the

vehicle.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the turn indicator
switch and lever.
4. Remove the steering shaft
upper bearing retaining circlip.
S. Remove the steering shaft
through the lower end of the column
(Fig. 62).
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble the steering shaft to
the column.
2. Fit the upper bearing retaining
circlip.
3. Assemble the turn indicator
switch and lever to the hub.
4. Assemble the steering wheel
and re-install the column into the
vehicle.
SHIFT TUIE REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL
1. Remove the steering column
from the vehicle and remove the
steering wheel.
2. Remove the gear selector lever
retaining pin and remove the lever.
lever.
4. Remove the three turn indicator switch retaining screws, lift the
switch over the shaft and place it to
one side.
S. Remove the steering shaft
upper bearing retaining circlip and
remove the steering shaft.
6. On automatic and floor-shift
vehicles remove the bolt attaching
the shift collar to the shift tube.
7. On manual transmission vehicles remove the three attaching

screws column to lower bearing.
8. Remove the shift tube from
the outer column tube (Fig. 62). On
automatic column shift and floorshift vehicles the shift tube lower
nylon bushing must be removed with
the tube, to achieve this, press the
three nylon tabs into the holes in the
column, ease the bushing down the
tube so that the tabs clear the holes.
Withdraw the tube and bush through
the bottom of the column tube.
t. On manual transmission vehicles, the lower shift tube bearing
may be removed before or after removing the shift tube from the
column.
NOTE: To remove shift tube upper
bearing, ignition lock must be removed first. Bearing can then be
removed from lower end of column.
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble upper shift tube

bearing in the column with the
chamfered edge lowermost and install
the ignition lock.
2. Assemble the lower bearing
and shift levers (manual shift) and
torque the retaining screws to specification.
3. Assemble the shift lever to the
collar using a new drive pin.
4. Assemble the steering shaft
to the column and fit a new upper
bearing retaining circlip.
5. Assemble the turn indicator
switch and lever to the hub, and
torque the screws to specification.
1. Refit the steering wheel.
7. Re-assemble the column to
the vehicle.
8. Align the column to the steering gear and adjust the shift linkage
as required.
IGNITION LOCK REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
l. Remove the column from the
vehicle and remove steering wheel.
2. Remove the steering lock
shroud and shift tube.
3. Cut slots in the steering lock
attaching bolts with a hacksaw and
remove bolts with a screw driver or
hammer and centre punch.
4. Rotate the lock around the
column tube until one end of the
base clears the aperture, lift the lock
from the column.
INSTALLATION
1. Place the steering/ignition lock
assembly into the recessed bush in
the steering column.
2. Engage new shear head bolts
and tighten them evenly until the
heads shear off.
3. Assemble the shroud to the
column and install shift tube.
4. Assemble the column to the
vehicle.
LOCK BARREL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Remove the lock shroud lower
attaching screw from beneath the
shroud.
2. Turn the ignition key to the
off or on position.
3. Push a .060" dia pin into the
lock through the shroud lower mounting hole to raise the barrel locking
pin and remove the barrel.
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble the barrel into the
lock and raise the barrel locking pin
by turning the key to the start
position.
2. Assemble the shroud lower
attaching screw.
3-42
GROUP
3-
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
FIG . 63 -Steering Linkage- Fairlane, Falcon
PART 3-4- STEERING COLUMN & LINKAGE
IJ
3-43
STEERING LINKAGE REPAIR
The steenng linkage (Fig. 63) consists

of the Pitman arm, the Pitman armto-idler arm (centre link), the idler
arm and bracket assembly and the
spindle connecting sleeve and end
assemblies (tie rods).
Do not attempt to straighten
bent linkage; use new parts.
Damage to suspension and/or
steering linkage components may
occur if care is not exercised when
positioning the hoist adapters of 2
post hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.
vehicle, place the adapters under the
allow the adapters to contact the
steering linkage.
SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY (INNER AND OUTER
ENDS} REPLACEMENT
FAIRLANE, FALCON
The spindle connecting rod ends,
which are ~eaded into the adjusting
sleeves, have non-adjustable, ball
studs. These parts cannot be greased
or serviced. A rod end assembly
should be replaced when excessive
looseness at the ball stud is noticed.
l. Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the worn rod end ball stud.
2. Disconnect the end from the
spindle ann or centre link as shown
in Figs. 63 and 65
3. Loosen the connecting rod
sleeve clamp bolts, and count the
number of turns needed to remove
the rod end from the sleeve. Discard
all rod end parts that were removed
from the sleeve. All new parts
. should be used when a spindle
connecting rod end is replaced.
4. Thread a new rod end into the
sleeve, but do not tighten the sleeve
clamp bolts at thi~ time.
5. Insert the stud in the part from
which the old one was removed, and
install the stud nut. Torque the nut to
specification and install the cotter pin.
6. Check and, if necessary, adjust
toe-in (Page 3-5). After toe-in is
checked and adjusted, loosen the
clamps from the sleeve, oil the
sleeve, clamps and bolts and
torque the nuts to specification.
The tie rod sleeve clamp-; must be
installed as shown in Fig. 63 to prevent interference with the side rail.
CENTRE LINK
REPLACEMENT
The centre link connecting the
Pitman arm and the idler arm is non-
adjustable and is provided with

tapered holes to accommodate the
ball studs (Fig. 63 ). The link should
be replaced when damaged or worn
at the ball studs or if excessive
looseness is noticed in either ball stud
socket.
THREAD PROTECTOR
FIG. 64- Disconnecting

Steering Linkage Ball Stud
-Typical
REMOVAL
l. Raise the vehicle on a hoist

and position safety stands.
2. Remove- the cotter pins and
nuts that attach both inner connecting rod ends to the centre link
(Fig .63 ).
3. Disconnect the inner connecting rod ends from the centre link
(Fig.64 ).
attaching the idler arm to the centre
link. Disconnect the idler arm from
the centre link.
attaching the Pitman arm to the centre link. Disconnect the Pitman arm
from the centre link and remove the
centre link.
INSTALLATION
l. Replace the rubber seals on the
spindle connecting rod ends, if
required.
2. Position the centre link to the
Pitman arm and idler arm and install
the attaching nuts loosely. Place the
idler arm and the front wheels in the
straight ahead position to insure
keeping the steering wheel aligned
and to prevent bushing damage after
the attaching nuts have been torqued.
Ensure that the seal is properly installed on the centre link. Torque the
nuts to the low end of the specification. Continue to 6ghten each nut
until the slots in the nut align with
the hole in the stud. Then install a
new cotter pin.
3. Position the spindle connecting

rod ends to the centre link and install
the attaching nuts. Torque the nuts to
the low end of the specification. Continue to tighten each nut until the
slots in the nut align with the hole in
the stud. Then, install a new cotter
pin.
4. Remove the safety stands,
lower the vehicle, check and adjust
toe-in to specification (Part 3-7).
STEERING IDLER ARM
AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
lf the idler arm bushings are wom
the complete idler arm assembly must
be replaced. If the socket at the idler
bracket is excessively loose, replace
the complete assembly.
l. Remove the cotter pin and nut
attaching the steering centre link at
the idler arm (Fig 63 ).
2. Disconnect the centre link
from the idler arm.
3. Remove the two bolts that
attach the idler arm and bracket
assembly to the frame.
INSTALLATION
l. Secure the new idler arm and
bracket assembly to the frame with
the two attaching bolts nuts and
washers(as shown in Fig. 63)
2. Place the idler arm and the
front wheels in the straight ahead
position to ensure keeping the steermg wheel aligned and to prevent
bushing damage after the attaching
nut has been torqued. Insert the
centre link stud through the hole in
the end of the idler arm and install
the nut and washer.
3. Torque the idler arm rod nut
to specification and install a new
cotter pin.
PITMAN ARM
REPLACEMENT-MANUAL ONLY
REMOVAL
1. Remove the cotter pin from
the castellated nut that attaches the
steering centre link to the Pitman
arm. Remove the castellated nut.
2. Disconnect the steering centre
link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the Pitman arm attaching nut and lock washer.
4. Remove the steering gear from
the vehicle (see page 3-46).
5. Remove the sector shaft cover
(see page 3-46) and drain oil.
6. Remove Pitman arm by following procedures outlined on page 3-44
3-44
under Pitman arm removal - power

steering.
PITMAN ARM REPLACEMENT

POWER STEERING ONLY.
INSTALLATION- MANUAL
NOTE - Pitman arm removal is

accomplished with steering gear
assembly removed from the car. For
removal procedures, see Page 346.
1. For sector shaft installation procedures and adjustment, refer page

347 and specifications.
2. For steering gear installation
procedure- refer page 346.
3. With the front wheels in the
straight ahead position, place the
Pitman arm on the sector shaft mak
ing sure it is pointing forward.
4. Install the nut and lock washer.
Torque the nut to specification.
5. Connect the steering centre
link to the Pitman arm, fit the nut
and torque to specification. Fit a new
cotter pin and fill steering gear with
specified oil.
REMOVAL
1. Remove pitman arm securing

nut from sector shaft.
2. Undo the four bolts securing
the sector shaft cover and remove
cover - drain oil.
3. Install steering gear assembly
in the press with the sector shaft
splined end upper most.
4. The sector (shaft will fall) downwards until the Pitman~ arm is resting
against the steering gear casing.
5. Takirig care not to damage the

threaded end of the sector shaft,
press the sector shaft through the
casing and remove the pitman arm.
NOTE - Ensure that the sector
shaft does not drop out of the casing
otherwise damage to the shaft could
occur.
INSTALLATION
STEERING
POWER
1. For sector shaft installation

refer to procedures outlined in pages
3-34 to 3-36.
2. For pre-load setting procedures
refer pages 3-36 to 3-37.
3. For pre-load and torque figures
refer specifications.
4. For steering gear and Pitman
arm installation procedures refer page
346.
5. Fill steering gear with specified

oil.
3-45
PART
35
D
STEERING GEAR
Section
1 Description .... .. .. .... ...... . ...... .... .. .. .. .. ...... .. .. ..
2 In-Car Adjustments & Repairs ...... ...... .. .. ..
Steering Gear Worm & Sector Adjustments
3 Removal & Installation ...... ...... ...... ...... .. .. ..
4 Major Repair Operations ...... ...... ...... ...... ..... .
Steering Gear
Disassembly ... ... ...... .. .. ..
Steering Gear Assembly ... .. . .. .. . .... .. ..... .
3-45
3-45
3-45
3-46
3-46
3-46
3-47
DESCRIPTION
The steering gear (Fig. 66)is of the

worm and recirculating ball type. The
sector shaft is straddle mounted having a bushing located in the cover
above the gear and a roller bearing in
the housing below the gear.
The worm bearing preload is controlled by the large adjusting nut
which is threaded into the housing.
The sector shaft mesh load is controlled by an adjusting screw located
in the housing cover.
The steering linkage consists of the
Pitman arm, steering-arm-to-idler
arm rod, idler arm and the spindle
connecting rods (tie rods).
Page
FIG.66 .
STEERING GEAR
STEERING WORM AND

SECTOR
GEAR ADJUSTMENTS
The ball nut assembly and the
sector gear must be adjusted properly
to maintain minimum steering shaft
end play (a factor of preload adjustment) and minimum backlash between sector gear and ball nut. There
are only two possible adjustments
within the recirculating ball-type .
steering gear, and these should be
made in the following order to

avoid @mage or gear failure.
1. Disconnect the Pitman arm
from the steering Pitman-to-idler
arm rod.
2. Loosen the nut which locks the
sector adjusting screw (Fig. 67), and
turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise.
3. Measure the worm bearing
preload by attaching an in-lb torque
wrench to the steering wheel nut
With the steering wheel offcentre,
read the pull required to rotate the
input shaft approximately 1! turns
either side of centre. If the torque or
preload is not within specification
(Part 3-7), adjust as explained in the
next step.
4. Loosen the steering shaft bearing adjuster lock nut, and tighten or
back off the bearing adjuster (Fig. 66)
to bring the preload within the
FIG. 67- Steering Gear

Adiustments - Typical
specified limits.
5. Tighten the steering shaft
bearing adjuster lock nut, and recheck the preload.
8. Turn the steering wheel slowly
to either stop. Turn gently against
the stop to avoid possible damage to the ball return guides.

Then rotate the wheel 2f turns to
centre the ball nut.
FIG. 68- Checking Steering

Gear Preload - Typical
7. Turn the sector adjusting
screw clockwise until the specified
torque (Part 3-7) is necessary to
rotate the worm past its centre
(high spot).
8. While holding the sector adjusting screw, tighten the sector adjusting screw locknut to specification,
and recheck the backlash adjustment.
9. Connect the Pitman arm to the
steering arm-to-idler arm rod.
El
REMOVAL
1. On V8 units remove the brake

master cylinder and booster.
2. Remove the two nuts from the
flexible coupling to steering shaft
flange bolts.
NOTE: On VS units it may be
advantageous to remove the flexible
coupling from the steering gear stub
shaft.
3. Remove the nut and lock
washer that secures the Pitman arm
to the sector shaft .
{On power steering units remove the
two fluid hoses from the steering
gear.)
4. Remove the steering gear to
side rail bolts and remove the gear.
EJ
INSTALLATION
1. Position the steering gear and

flexible coupling in the vehicle; then,
install and torque the steering gear
to side rail bolts to specification.
2. Position the Pitman arm on
the sector shaft and install the
attaching nut and lock washer. Torque the nut to specification. Part 3-7.
3. Install and connect the flexible
coupling attaching nuts and torque
{On power steering units replace the
two fluid hoses.)
4. On V8 units replace the brake
master cylinder and booster.
S. 'Bleed the brakes (See page 23.)
STEERING GEAR
DISASSEMBLY
1. Rotate the steering shaft to

centre the nut.
2. Mter removing the sector adjusting screw locknut and the housing
cover bolts (Fig. 70 ), remove the
sector shaft with the cover. Remove
the cover from the shaft by turning
the screw clockwise. Keep the shim
with the screw.
3. Loosen the worm bearing adjuster nut, and remove the adjuster
assembly and the steering shaft upper
bearing (Fig. 71 ).
4. Carefully pull the steering
shaft and ball nut from the housing,
and remove the steering shaft lower
bearing. To avoid possible damage to the ball return guides,
keep the ball nut from running
down to either end of the worm.
Disassemble the ball nut only if
there is indication of binding or
tightness.
5. Remove the ball return guide
clamp and the ball return guides from
the ball nut. Keep the ball nut
damp-side up until ready to
remove the balls.
6. Turn the ball nut over, and
rotate the worm shaft from side to
side until all 54 balls have dropped
out of the nut into a clean pan. With
the balls removed, the ball nut will
slide off the worm.
7. Remove the upper bearing cup

from the bearing adjuster and the
lower cup from the housing. It may
be necessary to tap the housing or
the adjuster on a block of wood to jar
the bearing cups loose.
8. If the preliminary inspection
shows damage, press the sector shaft
bearing and the oil seal from the

housing
Note: The inner sector shaft bearing
is flanged on the inner end and must
be removed by a suitable drift toward
the inside of the housing.
The outer or lower bearing and
FIG. 70- Sedor Shaft and Housing Disassembled
FIG. 71- Steering Shaft and Related Parts Disassembled
PART 3-5- STEERING GEAR

seal may now be removed together
by using a suitable drift through the
housin)!; toward the outer end of the
sector shaft aperture.
Assembly
1. If the sector shaft bearings and
oil seal have been removed press a
new inner (flanged) bearing into the
housing until the flange abuts the
housing.
2. Press the outer or lower bearing

into the housing until it is just below
the oil seal locating shoulder.
3. Press the oil seal into the
housing. Do not clean, wash or soak
seals in cleaning solvent (Fig. 70).
Apply the recommended steering gear
lubricant to the bearing and seals.
4. Install a bearing cup in the lower
end of the housing and in the adjuster.
S,. If the seal in the bearing adjuster
was removed, install a new seal.
6. Insert the ball guides into the
holes of the ball nut, tapping them
lightly with a wood handle of a screw
driver if necessary to seat them.
7. Insert 27 balls into the hole in
the top of each ball guide. It may be
necessary to rotate the .shaft slightly
one way, then in the opposite direction to distribute the balls in the circuit.
8. After the 54 balls are installed,
install the ball guide clamp. Torque
the screws to specification. C)lc:ck the
worm shaft to .m ake sure that it rotates freely.
9. Coat the threads of the steering
shaft bearing adjuster, the housing
cover bolts. and the sector adjusting
screw with a suitable oil-resistant seal-
ing compound. Do not apply sealer to

female threads and especially aoid
getting any sealer on the steering shaft
bearings.
10. Coat the worm bearings, sector
shaft bearings, and gear teeth with
steering gear lubricant.
11. Clamp the housing in a vise, with
the sector shaft axis horizontal, and
position the steering shaft lower bearing in its cup.
12. Position the steering shaft and
ball nut assemblies in the housing.
13. Position the steering shaft
upper bearing on the top of the worm,
and install the steering shaft bearing
adjuster and the adjuster nut and
bearing cup. leave the nut loose.
14.. Adjust the worm bearing preload, using an in-Ib torque wrench
(Fig. 72). See Page 3-56 for the speci
fled preload.
15. Position the sector adjusting
screw and adjuster shim. and check
the end clearance which should not
exceed 0.002 inch between the screw
head and the end of the sector shaft.
If clearance is greater than 0.002 inch,
add enough shims to reduce the end
play to within the 0.002 inch tolerance.
16. Start the sector shaft adjusting
screw into the housing cover.
17 . Install a new gasket on the
housing cover.
18. Rotate the steering shaft until
the ball nut teeth are in position to
mesh with the sector gear, tilting the
housing so that the ball will tip
toward ~he housing cover opening.
3-47 '
19. lubricate the sector shaft journal and install the sector shaft and
cover.
20. With the housing cover turned
out of the way fill the gear with 0.97
of gear lubricant. Push the
lbs
housing cover and sector shaft assemblies into place, and install the two
top housing cover bolts. Do not tight
en the coer bolts until it is certain
FIG. 72 -Checking Steering

Shaft Bearing Preload - Typical
that there is some lash between ball
nut and sector gear teeth. Hold or
push the. cover away from the ball nut,
then torque the bolts to specification.
21. After loosely installing the sector shaft adjusting screw lock nut, adjust the sector shaft mesh load. See
Page 3-56 for the specified mesh load;
then, tighten the adjusting screw lock
nut.
PART
3-6
D
WHEELS AND TYRES
Section
1. Description & Operation ... ... ... ... .. ... ...
Front Wheel - Rear Wheel... ... ... ... ...
2. In-Car Adjustments & Repairs... ... ... ... ... ...
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment ... ............
3. Removal & Installation ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
4. Major Repair Operations .....................
Page
3-48
3-48
3-48
3-48
3-49
3~so
The road wheels are of pressed

steel double Slifety (JJ) rim construction and are of five and six inch
width depending on tyre size. Refer
specification section.
ADJUSTING
NUT
FRONT WHEEL
Each front wheel and tyre assembly is bolted to its respective front
hub and brake drum (or hub and
disc). Two opposed tapered roller
bearings are installed in each hub.
A grease retainer is installed at the
inner end of the hub to prevent
lubricant from leaking into the
drum or on the disc. The entire
.assembly is retained to its spindle
by the adjusting nut, nut lock and
cotter pin (Figs. 73 and 74).
WHEEL
ASSEMBLY
HUI IIOLT
FIG. 73 -Front Hub, Bearings and Grease Retainer- Drum BrakesTypical

HUB AND IIOTOit
ASSEMBLY
CUP
ADJUSTING
REAR WHEEL
INNER
lEAR lNG
NUT
The rear brake drum wheel and

tire assemblys are mounted on the
rear axle shaft flange studs, and are
retained by the wheel nuts. The rear
wheel bearing is pressed onto the
axle shaft just inside the shaft flange,
and the entire assembly is retained to
the rear axle housing by the bearing
retainer plate which is bolted to the
housing flange.
GRWf
RETAINEI
The inner end of each axle shaft

is splined to the differential in the
rear axle.
EJ
FIG. 74- Front Hub, Bearings and Grease Retainer- Disc BrakesTypical
lteertq Uakap.

steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when
post hoists prior to lifting the car.
H a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
front suspension lower arms. Do DOt
dow tbe adapten to eoatact the
FRONT WHEEL BEARING

ADJUSTMENT
The front wheel bearings should
be adjusted if the wheel is too loose
on the spindle or if the wheel does
not rotate freely. The followiilg procedure will bring the bearina adjustment to specification.
1. Raise the car until the wheel

and tire clear the floor.
2. Pry off the hub cap or wheel
cover and remove the grease cap
from the hub.
3. Wipe the excess grease from

the end of the spindle, and remove
the cotter pin and nut lock.
4. If equipped with disc brakes,
loosen the bearing adjusting nut
3-49
PART 3-6- WHEELS & lYRES

three .turns. Then, rock the wheel
and disc assembly in and out several
times to push the shoe and linings
away from the disc.
5. While rotating the wheel, hub
and drum or Hub and Disc Assembly, torque the adjusting nut to
17-25 ft.-lbs. to seat the bearings
(Fig. 75).
6. Back off the adjusting nut 1~
flats i.e. 90 to obtain bearing end
float of the specified .002 - .0065
for disc brakes and .0005 - .0065 for
drum brakes.
7. Selectively position the nut retainer on the adjusting nut so that a
set of.slots lines up with the cotter
pin hole.
8. Lock the adjusting nut and nut
retainer with a new cotter pin.
EJ
9. Check the front wheel rotation.

If the wheel rotates properly, install
the grease cap and the hub cap or
wheel cover. U the wheel still rotates
roughly or noisily, clean or replace
the bearings and cups as required.
a $
10. Before driving the car (if

equipped with disc brakes), pump the
brake pedal several times to obtain
normal brake lining to Diee clearance and restore normal brake pedal
travel.
@
WITH WHEEL ROTATING
TORQUE ADJUSTING NUT
TO 17-25 FT. LBS.
BACK ADJUSTING NUT

OFF TO OBTAIN THE
SPECIFIED END FLOAT.
INSTALL THE LOCK AND

A NEW COTTER PIN.
FIG. 75 - Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when
post hoists prior to liftina the car.
car, place the adapten under the
front suspension lower arms. Do aot
allow the adapten to eoatact the
ateerlaa Hnkace.
WHEEL AND TYRE REMOVAL
1. Pry off the wheel hub cap or
cover. Loosen but do not remove
the wheel lua nuts.
and tyre clear the floor.
3. Remove the wheel lua nuts
from the bolts, and pull the wheel
and tyre assembly from the hub and
drum or dise.
REMOVING TYRE FROM WHEEL

The tire can be demounted on a
mounting machine. Be lUte that tbe
outer lllde of the wheel Ia posidoned
downward. If tire irons are UJed fol
low the procedure given here.
1. Remove the valve cap and core,
and deftate the tyre completely.
1. With a bead loosening tool,
break loose the tyr~ side walls from
the wheel (Fig. 69 ).
3. Potidon the oater llde of the
wbeel downward, and intert two tyre
irons about 8 inches apart between
the tyre inner bead and the back side
of the wheel rim. U1e oaly tyre lroal
If a new wheel is being installed,

coat a new valve with lubricant and
position the valve to the new wheel.
Use a rubber hammer or a valve replacing tool to seat the valve firmly
against the inside of the rim.
FlOSIA
FIG. 76 - Bead Loosening Tool

with rounded edpe or lroas detlped
for demoundq tubelea tyrea.
4. Leave one tyre iron in position,
and pry the rest of the bead over the
rim with the other iron. Take small
"bites" with the iron around the tyre
in order to avoid damaging the seal
ing surface of the tyre bead.
5. Stand the wheel and tire upright with the tyre outer bead in the
drop center wen at the hottom of the
wheel. Insert the tyre iron between
the bead and the edge of the wheel
rim. and pry the wheel out of the
tire.
INSTALLING TYRE ON WHEEL

1. If a used tire is being installed
remove all dirt from the tyre
If a tyre is being mounted to the
original wheel, clean the rim with
emery cloth or fine steel wool. Check
the rim for dents.
2. Apply rubber lubricant to the

sealing surface on both tyre beads.
With the outer side of the wheel
down, pry two beads over the wheel
rim with two tyre irons, or by u5ing
a rubber mallet.
3. Align the balance mark on the
tire with the valve on the wheel.
4. Hold the beads against the rim
ftangcs by positioning a tire mount
ing band over the tire (Fig. 77). If 2
mounting band is not available, tie
a torniquct of heavy cord around
the circumference of the tire. Tighten
the cord with a tire iron. Center the
tire on the wheel with a rubber
mallet.
5. Give the tire a few quick bursts
of air to seat the beads properly,
then inftatc the tire to 40 pounds
pressure. Check to sec that the bead
positioning rings (outer rings near
the side walls) arc evenly visible just
above the rim ftanges all the way
around the .tire. If the rings are not
even, deftate the tire completely and
inftate it again.
6. When the rings arc properly
positioned, deflate the tire to the
recommended pressure.
3-50
GROUP
3- SUSPENSION,
STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
WHEEL AND TYRE

INSTALLATION
1. Clean all dirt from the hub.
2. Position the wheel and tyre assembly on the hub. Install the
wheel lug nuts and tighten them
alternately in order to draw the
wheel evenly against the hub.
3. Lower the car to the floor, and

torque the lug nuts to specification
FIG. 77 -Tubeless Tyre

Mounting Band
EJ
steering linkage components may
occur if care is not exercised when
post hoists prior to lifting the car.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift
the car, place the adapters under
the front suspension lower arms. Do
Dot .Uow the adapten to coatact tbe
lteertq llabae.
FRONT WHEEL GREASE SEAL
AND BEARING REPLACEMENT
AND/OR REPACKING
If bearing adjustment will not
eliminate looseness or roush and
noisy operation, the hub and bear
inas shou d be cleaned, inspected,
and repacked. If the bearing cups or

the cone and roller assemblies are
wom or damaged, they should be
replaced.
DRUM BRAKES
and tire clear the ftoor.
2. Remove the wheel cover or
hub cap. . Remove the grease cap
from the hub. Remove the cotter
pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and ftat
washer from the spindle. Remove
the outer bearina cone and roller
assembly (Fig. 73).
3. Pull the wheel, hub, and drum
4. Remove the arease retainer end
the inner bearing cone and roller u-
sembly from the hub with a drift.

5. aean the lubricant off the
inner and outer bearing cups with
solvent and inspect the cups for
scratches, pits, excessive wear, and
other damage. If the cups are worn
or damaged, remove them with a drift.
6. Thoroughly clean the inner and

outer bearing cones and rollers with
solvent, and dry them thoroughly.
Do not spin the bearing with
compressed air.
7. Inspect the cone and roller as.semblies for wear or damage, and replace them if nec:essary. 1'lle CGM
ud roller
ad tile ....._
IDa cups should be repa.ced a lllllt
If .......e to either II CMOUDtend.
-blia
PART 3-6- WHEELS & TYRES

8. Thoroughly clean the r. spindle
and the inside of the hub with solvent to remove all old lubricant.
Cover the spindle with a clean
cloth, and brush all loose dust and
dirt from the brake assembly. To
prevent getting dirt on the spindle,
carefully remove the cloth from the
SDindle.
9. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install
the replacement cup(s) in the hub
with . the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be
. sure to seat the cups properly in

the hub.
Do not pack the cavity between
the bearings with grease.
10. All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings
before repacking them with new
grease. Pack the bearing cone and
roller assemblies with wheel bearing
grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is
not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers
and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease
11. Place the inner bearing cone

and roller assembly in the inner cup,
and install the new grease retainer
with the reverse end of the tool
shown in Fig. 78. Be Stlre that the
retainer is properly seated.
Smear wheel bearing grease
around seal lip.
12. Install the wheel, hub, and
drum assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep the hub centered oa the
apindle to prevent diUIUIIe to the
puae ret.lner or the apindle threadl.
13. Install the outer bearing cone
and roller assembly and the ftat
washer on the spindle; then, install
the adjusting out (Fig. 73).
14. Adjust the wheel bearings as
outlined previously and install a
new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the
cotter pin around the castellatioos of
the nut lock. Install the grease cap.
cover.
DISC BRAKES
and tire clear the ftoor.
2. Remove the wheel cover or hub
cap.
3. Remove the wheel and tire from
the hub.
4. Remove 2 bolts attaching the

caliper to the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper from the disc and
wire it to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut
lock, adjusting nut, and ftat washer
from the spindle. Remove the outer
bearing cone and roller assembly
(Fig. 74).
6. Pull the hub and disc off the
wheel spindle.
7. Remove the grease retainer and
the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
8. Clean the lubricant off the inner and outer bearing cups with
solvent and inspect the . cups for
scratches, pits, excessive wear, and
other damage. If the cups are worn .
or damaged, remove them with a
drift.
solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Do
not spin the bearings with compressed air.

Inspect the cone and roller assemblies for wear or damage, and replace them if necessary. The cone
and roUer assemblies and the bear
ing cups should be replaced as a
unit if damage to either il encountered.
10. Thoroughly clean the spindle
and the inside of the hub with solvent
to remove all old lubricant.
prevent aettina dirt on the spindle
carefuUy remove the cloth from the
spindle.
11. If the inner and I or outer
bearing cup(s) were removed, install
the replacement cup(s) in the hub
with the tool shown in Fig. 78.
Be sure to seat the cups propedy In
the bub.
12.Do not pack the cavity between
All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings
before packing them with new grease.
Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease.
A bearing packer is desirable for
this operation. If a packer is not
available, work as much lubricant as
possible between the rollers and
cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces
with grease.
3-51
INNER CUP
INSTALLATION
OUTER CUP
INSTALLATION
F1057-A
FIG. 78 - Installing Front

Wheel Bearing Cup13. Place the inner bearing cone
and roller assembly in the inner
cup, and install the new grease retainer with the reverse end of the
tool shown in FJg. 78. Be sure that
the retainer is properly seated.

around seal lip.
14. Install the hub and disc on
the wheel spindle. Keep the bub
centered on the spindle to prevent
damage to tht: lff!&Se retainer or the
spindle threads.
the adjusting nut.
16. Position the caliper over the
rotor and install the 2 attaching bolts.
17. Install the wheel and tire on
the hub.
outlined previously, and install a
cotter pin around the castellations of
the nut lock.
cover and lower the car.
FRONT HUB AND DRUM

REPLACEMENT
When the hub and drum assembly
is replaced, a new grease retainer
must be installea in the new assembly. The new grease retainer sealing
surfaces should be coated with wheel
bearing grease.
and tire clears the ftoor. Pry off the
hub cap or wheel cover, and remove
the wheel and tire assembly from
the hub and drum assembly.
l. Remove the grease cap from
the hub. Remove the cotter pin, out
3-52
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, . WHEELS

with grease.
and install the new grease retainer
with the reverse end of the tool
shown in F!g. 78. Be sure that the
retainer is properly seated.

from the new hub and disc with
carburettor degreaser. Install new
inner and outer bearing cups in the
new hub with the tool shown in
Fig. 78. Be sure to seat the cups
properly in the hub.

around seal lip.
7. Install the new hub and drum
assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep
S. Do not pack the cavity between

All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearinp

grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is
not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollen
and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease.
the hub centered on the spindle to

prevent damage to the ll'ease ~
talner.
FIG. 79- Front Wheel Hub

Lubrication
lock, adjusting nut, and ftat washer
(Fig. 73).
3. Pull the wbeel, hub, and drum
from the new hub and drum with
carburetor de greaser. Install new inner and outer bearing cups in the
new hub with the tool shown in Fig.
78. Be sure to seat the cups
properly in the hub.
S. Do not pack the cavity bet

ween the bearings with grease.
All old grease should be com~
pletely cleaned from the bearings
grease. A bearing packer is desirable
for this operation. If a packer is not
& lYRES

the adjusting nut (Fig. 73).
9. Position the wheel and tire
assembly on the new hub and drum
assembly. Install the wheel lug nuts
and tighten them alternately in order
to draw the wheel evenly against
the hub and drum. Do not exceed
specifications.
outlined previously, and install a
the nut lock. Install the grease cup.
cover.
FRONT HUB AND DISC
REPLACEMENT
When the hub and disc assembly
is replaced, a new grease retainer
must be installed in the new assembly. The new grease retainer sealing
surfaces should be coated with wheel
bearing grease.
and tyre clears the floor. Pry off the
hub cap or wheel cover, and remove
the wheel and tyre assembly from
the hub and disc.
2. Remove lock wires and 2 bolts
attaching the caliper to the spindle.
Remove the caliper from the rotor
and wire it to the underbody to
prevent damage to the brake hose.
the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut
lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer
from tlie spindle. Remove the outer
bearing. cone and roller assembly
(Fig. 77). Pull the hub and disc off
the w.heel spindle.

and roller assembly in the inner
cup, and install the new grease re~
tainer with the reverse end of the
tool shown in Fig. 78. Be sure
that the retainer is properly
seated.
around seal lip.
7. Install the new hub and disc
assembly on the wheel spindle.
Keep the hub centred on the
spindle to prevent damage to the
grease retainer.
.
9. A4just wheel bearings as outlined previously and install a new

cotter pin. Bend the ends of the
nut lock.

rotor and install the caliper to spindle
bolts. Torque to specification.
11. Rewire the caliper mounting
12. Position the wheel and tyre
assembly on the new hub and disc.
Install the wheel hub nuts and
tighten them alternately in order to
draw the wheel evenly against the
hub and disc. Do not exceed
specifications (Part 3-7).
3-53
PART
3-7
SPECIFICATIONS
FALCON-FAIRLANE-C:.T. *
Caster
Camber
Toe-in
Mill.
-~0
-~
3/16 in.
Checki111 Speciftcatiells
Ma1i111m Varlatlo11
Mil.
letweea WhHis
+1"
+1*
5/16 in.
0"11111 Rellttiq SpiCiiiCitieas

Onlretl Ali1111ellt
+%0
+W
~in.
Kina Pin Anele

Turnine Angle of Outside.Wheel With Inside Wheel Turned 20"
7~
17~
*G.T.-INSTALLATION SPACERS ARE NOT TO BE USED-VEHICLE KERB HEIGHT TO BE EVEN ON BOTH SIDES AT KERB WEIGHT.
FRONT SUSPENSION TORQUE LIMITS
REAR SUSPENSION TORQUE LIMITS

To~
Terque ftLI11
Ref.
"'
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
....
let.
Descrllltlea
Shock Absorber Upper Attachment
Shock Absorber Upper Bracket to
Body
Front Suspension Compression
Bumper to Body
Brake Backin& Plate to Spindle
Upper Arm and Inner Shaft to Body
Spring Seat to Upper Arm
Shock Absorber to Sprin& Seat
Wheel Nut
Wheel Burin& Adjustln& Nut
Ball Joint to Spindle (Upper and
lower)
Strut to lower Arm
lower Arm to Underbody
Stabilizer Bar Mountin& Bracket
to Underbody
Strut to Underbody
Stabilizer Bar to Lower Arll
FtUs
20-28
813
12-17
3G-40
75-100
17-25
12-17
85105
<D17-25
~90
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Dllcrl"lll
Sprin~
Shaclde Bars to Body and

1522
Spr na
Rear Shock Absorber to Upper
15-25
Mountin& Bracket
Reer Shock AbsOrber to Rear
15-25
Sprin& Clip Plate
Rear Sprin& to Rear Axle U-bolt Nut 30-45
Wheel Nut
85105
45-55
Rear Sprin& to Rear Sprine Front
Hanear
Radius rod (Front)
5575
Radius rod (Rear)
55-75
55-70
75-100
1116
40-60
5-10
IALL JOINTS
<D Torque nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. to
seat bearings then back off 1~ flats
i.e.90 .
<J> Torque to specification then
tighten the nut to the nearest cotter

pin slot and insert the cotter pin.
Radial Plar (Inches)

Max. Allowable
Upper Ball Joint
lower Ball Joint
0.250 at wheel rim

Replace if Perceptibly Loose
J-54
FIG. 80 -Front Suspension Torque Limits
FIG. 81- Rear Suspension Torque Limits
PART 3-7- SPECIFICATIONS
3-55
MUST NOT 8l TWIS TED
FIG. 82-6 Cyl. Power Steering

Torque Limits
PULLEY WITH PULL OFF GROOVE

FACING FRONT OF CAR TO BE
PRESSED ON FLUSH WITH END
OF SHAFT : .010
STEERING LINKAGE TORQUI LIMITS
ef.
No.
1
2
3
4
,._.,..,_,~"'------ 2!1 ~
Ll Fl
fOR All APPliCATIONS PULLE Y

WITH PUll OfF GROOVE
'ACING ,ltONT OF CAR TO
IE PAUSE D ON FlUSH W IT H
END OF SHAFT + .010
6
tt
l l. IN.
3A71t MF.
7
8
FIG . 82A- 8 Cyl. Power Steering

Torque Limits
9
10
11
12
13
Descrl~lo
Cylinder Mounti'lf Br~eket

to Under body Ide Hole)
Steerlna Spindle Ann
Connectin1 Rod End to
Spindle Arin
Idler Ann Mountln1
BriCkel to Underbody
Pitman Ann to Steerln1
Annto-ldler Ann ROd or
to Valve and link
Assembly
Steerin1 sclndle Ann
Connect n1 Rod to Steer
inl Ann-to-Idle Ann Rod
Cylinder Mountlnlo Bracket
to Underbody ( ttom
Hole)
Power Cylinder to BriCklt
Power t,llinder to Br~eklt
lock ut
stnrlq Ge to Skit Rill
Pitman Ann to Sector Shaft
Power Cylinder to Control
Rod
Idler Ann to Steerln1 Annto-Idler Ann Rod.
Steeriq S~lndle Ann
Connect1n1 Rod llld
End Clamp to Adjustlna
Sleeve
,.,..n-us
su-..
Pnlr
Stllrill Stllrlll
28-35
~30-40
28-35
~35-47
Gl30-40
40-43
18-24
3-5
50-&5
150-225
35-47
-.so
11-28
G>Torque to low limit of specification; then, tiahten the nut to

the nearest cotter pin slot and insert the cotfer piA.
3-56
GROUP
3-
STEERING GEAR POWER

Gear Ratio
Maxinium (on centre) 17.5:1
Minimum (on lock) 11: 1
Turns of Steerin$ Wheel
2.6
(Stop to Stop)
PRELOADS (AU readings in inch
pounds)
Note: Preloads are cumulative and
must be checked and set in sequence.
1. Seal drag
*-1
2. Worm bearing
New 2-3
Used1-2
3. Gear Drag
New 1-1*
Used-*
4. Worm follow preload
New 6-7
Used 3-4
5. Rack and Sector
New 6-7
Used3-4
Total Preload
New 15*-19*
Used 7*-11~
Fluid type
M2C33F
Fluid capacity'( total syste.r:n) 2.5 pts
Drive belt tension (lbs)
new belt 120-130
used belt 90-120
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
STEERING GEAR MANUAL

EXCEPT
GT
20:1
Gear Ratio
Turns of Steering Wheel
(Stop to Stop)
5
Worm Bearing Preload in-lbs
3-8
Total Preload (Worm Bearing
plus Sector Mesh) in-lbs
10-16
Lube Capacity (oz)
11
Lube Type
ESW-MIC87-A
GT
ONLY
16:1
4
3-8
10-16
ITIIIINO OIAI TORQUE LIMITS

Sector shaft cover bolts
30ft lbs.
Meshload adjusting screw
locknut
30 ft lbs.
Piston-rack cover
30.40 ft lbs.
Pre-load adjuster locknut60.80 ft lbs.
Flexible Coupling
Attaching nut
48-50 ft lbs.
Filler plug
7.9 ft lbs.
Flexible coupling nuts 12.20 ft lbs.
STIDINO GEAR TOIQUI LIMITS

Sector shaft cover bolts
30 ft lbs.
Meshload adjusting
32.40 ft lbs.
screw locknut
Pre-load adjuster locknut60.80 ft lbs.
Ball return guide
clamp screw
42.60in lbs.
Flexible coupling
pinch bolts
28,38 ft lbs.
ADJUSTMENTS ALL MODELS:

Adjusting screw clearance at boHom of sector shaft T-slot-.000"
.002".
Sector Shaft end play-steering link1ge disconnected-none.
STilliNG COLUMN TORQUE UMITS
DtlcrJ,till
NOTES:
Gur-oniJ-IIOt attached to Pttm Inn.
<!>Total (mesh lold plus worm bea::~~ preiOIID must be 1 minimum
of 2 lb. in. aretter thin worm beil!l preiOid.
.
Required to rotlle Input shift 1nd Worm wembly pat the
center high point.
Torque required to rotlte input shift 1t :rroxillllttly 1~
turns either side of center lit out of Yehle or Pttm disconnecttell
Stearina Wheel Ret1ining Nut

Steerina Column to Support Bracket
!Instrument P1nell
Stearina Column Shift Ann to Shift Linklp
Sell Ret1iner to DISh P111el
T
ft.US
25-30
12-16
20-35
1
16-22
3-57
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE P.S.I. (3)
VEHICLE
XA/ZFSEDAN
6 and 8 Cyl.
TYRESIZE
6.95Ll44PR
7.35 L14) 4PR
7.35814) 4PR
1858R14
E70HR14
XAWAGON
6and8 Cyl.
FALCONG.T.
NORMAL LOAD (1)

FRONT
REAR
FULLY LADEN (2)

FRONT
REAR
24
24
30
32
24
24
26
28
24
22
22
22
30
28
30
28
7.35L14) 4PR
7.35814) 4PR
1858R14
E70HR14
24
24
28
24
24
24
24
28
28
32
32
E70HR14
24
24
30
30
UNLADEN
UTIUTY AND VAN 10 cwt.
6 and 8 Cyl.
IS cwt.
32
LADEN
7.35L14)4PR
7.35814) 4PR
1858R14
E70HR14
24
24
28
32
24
24
24
24
28
28
32
32
7.75L14 6PR
24
24
28
36
(1) tyre pressures at normal load apply when the vehicle is loaded with up to three persons.
(2) fully laden tyre pressures apply when the vehicle is loaded in ex~ss of normal load and up to maximum
rated loads.
NOTE maximum load for passenger vehicles is all seating positions occupied plus 200 lb load in the luggage
compartment when applied to sedan or 300 lb when applicable to station wagon.
Maximum load for commercial vehicles is G.V.W.
(3a) for trailer towing or sustained high speed (1 hour or more) above 75 M.P.H. for bias ply tyres or 85 M.P.H. for radial
ply tyres, cold inflation pressures must be increased by 4 P .8.1.
(3b) do not exceed the following pressures.
Cross ply
4 ply rating 32 p.s.i.
6 ply rating 36 p.s.i.
Radial ply
40 p.s.i.
All tyres are now performance rated by the Australian Rubber Manufacturers Association, and the rating signified by a letter
included in the tyre size nomenclature moulded on the tyre. As applied to the Falcon/Fairlane tyres the letters are as follows:
L
SR
HR(orRH)
100 mph performance rating (as in 6.95Ll4)

110 mph performance rating (as in 7 .35814)
120 mph performance rating (as in 1858R14)
130 mph performance rating (as in E70HR14)
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO
FAIRMONT
SED WAG
54D 71D
STD NA
RPO STD
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
NA NA
STD
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
GT
SED
54H
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
NA
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
FAIR LANE
CUSTOM 500
SED SED
54E 548
STD STD
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
NA NA
FOOTNOTES TO TABLE
(1) All lyres are now performance rated by the Australian Rubber Manufacturers Association, and the rating signified by a letter included intyre size nomenclature moulded on the tyre.
As applied to the Falcon/Fairlane tyres the letters are as follows:
L
100 mph performance rating (as in 6.95L 14)
S
110 mph performance rating (as in 7.35S14)
SR 120 mph performance rating (as in 185SR14)
HR (or RH)-130 mph performance rating (as in ER70H14)
(2) 7.35l14 Tyras are standard on 10 cwt Utility and Van, however when 15 cwt load option is specified 7.75l14 Six Ply tyres are required and no further tyre option is available.
(3) 185SR14 Radial Ply tyres are minimum requirements with Sports Handling Suspension RPO on 302 CID V-8 and 351 CID 2V V-8 engined vehicles.
(4) The Styled Steel Road Wheels as well as being standard on Falcon GT constitute part of the Rally Pack RPO and 7.35l14 lyres are minimum requirement with the Rally Pack RPO.
(5) 7.35l14 lyres are minimum requirement with the Sports Road Wheel RPO.
(6) 7.35S14 lyres are minimum requirement with 351 2V engine RPO.
(2) 7.75L14 6 P.R.

(3) 185SR14 Radial
ply
BSW &JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
ER70H14Wide oval
Rad. ply RSW 6JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
5JJ Wheel with 0.5 ill. of.fset

5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
&JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
WSW
BSW
WSW
BSW
7.35S14 4P.R.
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
"led Stnl Wheel (4) & Sports Road Whnl (5):

27.35L14 4 P.R. BSW 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
500
WAG UTE
718 668
NA NA
STD STD
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
NA RPO

SED
548
STD
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
Standard Stamped Whnls:

6.95l14 4 P.R. BSW
(2) 7.35l14 4 P.R. BSW
WSW
(6) 7.35S14 4 P.R. BSW
WSW
(2) U5L 14 6 P.R. BSW
(3) 185SR14 Radial
ply
BSW
ER70H14Wide oval
Rad. ply RSW
STANDARD
WAG UTE VAN
71A 66A 78A
NA NA NA
STD STD STD
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO
NA RPO RPO
FUT
URA
SED
54C
STD
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
FALCON
SED
54A
STD
RPO
RPO
RPO
RPO
NA
TYRE (1) & WHEEL OPTIONS
CJ)
;o
CJ)
,...
J:
m
m
G'>
;o
~
m
CJ)
""tJ
cCJ)
CJ)
i't'
..
"c:,.,
(X)
0'1
w
I
REAR AXLE
GROUP
4
PAGE
PART
4-1
Rear Axles
4-2
PART
4-2
Rear Axle Overhaul
4-14
PART
4-3
Specifications
4-28
4-2
PART
4-1
REAR AXLES
Section
1 Identification, Description and Operation
Page
2 Diagnosis and Testing .
Section
3 In-Car Adjustment and Repair ... ... ......
4-2
Page
4-9
4-5
IDENTIFICATION DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
IDENTIFICATION
INTEGRAL CARRIER
CONVENTIONAL &
LIMITED SLIP AXLES
A metal tag with the axle assembly

part number, axle serial number and
axle ratio is fixed to the right hand
upper cover plate bolt.
In addition to this tag the integral
carrier limited slip axle has a tag
attached under the oil filler plug.
This tag states "SPIN RESIST ANT DIFF. USE APPROVED
LUBRICANT ONLY".
REMOVABLE CARRIER
TRACTION LOK AXLE
The removable carrier "Traction

Lok" rear axle has a tag attached
under one of the upper carriers to
housing bolts. This tag identifies
the 2. 75 : 1 ratio as 2L 75-9 and
the 3.00 : 1 ratio as 3L00-9 in the
lower left corner.
DESCRIPTION
INTEGRAL CARRIER
CONVENTIONAL AXLE
The rear axle is of the hypoid,

semi-floating type using shim adjustment of bearing preloads. The
differential case with ring-gear and
the drive pinion, are mounted in
opposed taper roller bearings in the
one piece rear-axle carrier. Both two
and four pinion differential assemblies are used.
The splines on the axle shafts
engage splines in the differential side
gears and the axle shafts are held in
the carrier by ball bearings and
retainers at the axle housing outer
ends. Axle shaft end play is pre-set
and is not adjustable. Gear ratios
are given on the identification tag.
All operations other than removal
of the axle shafts and the pinion oil
seal, should be carried out with the
unit removed from the vehicle.
ALL INTEGRAL CARRIER

REAR AXLE ASSEMBLIES
HAVE TAPERED ROLLER
UNIT TYPE AXLE SHAFT
BEARINGS FITTED
Construction design is a single
row, pre-set tapered roller bearing
capable of accepting thrust loads
in either direction and radial loads
in any combination.
The tapered roller unit type bearing consists of five basic parts:
the cup or outer race, the cup rib
ring, the cone, or inner race, the
tapered rollers which roll freely
between the cup and cone, and the
cage which serves as a retainer to
maintain the proper spacing between the tapered rollers grouped
around the cone.
When the bearing is manufactured, the cup and rib ring are
bonded together with an adhesive
to facilitate bearing handling and
installation. Since the cup and rib
ring are clamped together in the
axle housing, there is no need for a
permanent bond. When the bearing is serviced the cup will usually
be separated from the rib ring.
TAPERED ROLLER UNIT
TYPE BEARING
All unit bearings are manufactured with a built-in adjustment of

.007" to .018" "bench" end play
or axial clearance. This "bench"
end play is reduced when the bearing is pressed on the axle shaft. The
final assembled end play on the
shaft of .001" to .015" is dependent
on the dimensions of the interference fit between the cone and the
axle shaft. The standard recommended cone fit is .001" to .0022*
tight. The cups are a loose fit in the
housing. Used bearings may have
a maximum of .025" end play.
The bearing is held on the shaft
by the interference fit of the bearing
cone and the retaining collar. The
cup and rib ring are clamped
together in the axle housing through
the seal by the clamping plate. The
axle seal wipes on the rotating axle
shaft and at the time functions as a
static seal to prevent lube from
escaping between the housing and
seal outside diameter.
It is important to note that the
seal also acts as a "spacer" in the
clamp up of the bearing in the axle
housing. It is imperative that the
specified seal is used.
The UNIT TYPE BEARING
requires no periodical maintenance
when in service.
LIMITED SLIP AND
TRACTION LOK AXLES
3.
1.
CUP
2.
CUP RIB
RING
3.
CONE
4.
ROLLERS
5.
CAGE
-------
FIG. 1 -Tapered Roller

Unit Type Bearing
The limited slip and traction lok

axles perform the same functions as
the conventional type rear axle, and
in addition they transfer driving
forces to the wheel with traction
should the opposite wheel begin to
spin.
INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED
SLIP
The differential housing is identical with the conventional axle as is

the ring gear and pinion. The differ-
4-3
PART 4-1-REAR AXLE
FIG. 2 - Exploded View Integral Carrier Conventional Axle

Assembly with Tapered Roller Unit Type Axle Shaft Bearings- Typical
DIFFERENTIAL
COVER
DIFFERENTIAL
BOLTS
THRUST
WASHER
PINION
DIFFERENTIAL
CAP
DIFFERENTIAL
BOLTS
THRUST
WASHER
PINION
THRUST
BLOCK
FIG. 3 - Integral Carrier Limited Slip Differential
PINION SHAFT
DOWEL
4-4
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
entia! case houses two cone type

clutches behind the side gears. These
cones are splined to the axle shafts,
their tapered faces bearing on the
differential case. Springs enclosed
in two thrust blocks and interposed
between the two side gears pre-load
the gears and cones, forcing the
tapered face of the cones into contact
with the differential case. The partial
locking action, due to the spring load
on the cones is automatically increased by the inherent separating
forces between the side gears and
pinions. This locking action directs
the major driving force to the wheel
with the greater traction.
pinion shaft in front of the pinion

gear with a collapsible spacer. A
straight roller (pilot) bearing supports the pinion shaft at the rear of
the pinion gear. Pinion and ring gear
tooth contact is adjusted by adding
or removing shims from between the
pinion retainer and the carrier
housing.
The differential assembly is mounted on two opposed tapered roller
bearings, which are retained in the
carrier by removable caps. The
entire carrier assembly is bolted to
the axle housing.
Ball bearing assemblies (rear wheel
bearings) are pressed onto the outer
ends of the axle shafts and set in the
outer ends of the axle housing. These
bearing~ support the semi-floating
axle shafts at the outer ends. The
inner ends of the shafts spline to the
differential side gears. Bearing retainer plates hold the shafts in the
housing. The left and right axle
shafts are not interchangeable, the
left shaft being shorter than the right.
The Traction-Lok (torque se~si
tive) locking differential (Fig. 4)
employs a multiple disc clutch to
control differential action. Shim(s)
which control side gear mounting
distance, four steel, four friction and
REMOVABLE CARRIER
TRACTION LOK AXLE
The rear axle is of the banjohousing hypoid gear type using a

9 inch ring gear, in which the centreline of the pinion is mounted below
the centreline of the ring gear.
The pinion gear and the pinion
bearings are assembled in a pinion
retainer which is bolted to the
carrier. The pinion is straddle
mounted; that is, it is supported by
bearings both in front of and to the
rear of the pinion gear. Two opposed
tapered roller bearings support the
one composite plate (steel on one

side and friction material on the
other) stacked on a clutch hub, and
four ear guides are housed in the
differential cover. Located in the
differential case between the side
gears is a one-piece pre-load plate
and block and four calibrated preload springs, which apply an initial
force to the clutch pack. Additional
clutch capacity is derived from the
side gear thrust loads. The four
friction plates are splined to the
clutch hub which in turn is splined
to the left axle shaft, and the eared
steel plates are dogged to the case;
thus, the clutch is always engaged.
OPERATION
INTEGRAL CARRIER
CONVENTIONAL AXLE
The rear axle drive pinion receives

its power from the engine through
the transmission and drive shaft. The
pinion gear rotates the differential
case through engagement with the
ring gear, which is bolted to the case
outer flange. Inside the case, there
are two or four differential pinion
gears mounted on the differential
pinion shaft which is pinned to the
case. These pinion gears are engaged
with the side gears, to which the axle
RING GEAR
4209
FRICTION CLUTCH
PLATES-4945
SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER
4228
DIFFERENTIAL
CASE COVER
4204
CENTER BLOCK
(SHORT PINION
SHAFT SEATl
4420
PRE"LOAD SPRING
PLATE-4A326
GEAR
THRUST WASHER
4230
Plt~ION
@NION DIFFERENTIAL!
CLUTCH PLATE
EAR GUIDES (4}
4A323
FIG. 4 -Removable Carrier Traction Lok Differential
STEEL CLUTCH
PLATE S-4947
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES

shafts are splined. Therefore, as the
differential case turns, it rotates the
axle shafts and rear wheels. When it
is necessary for one wheel and axle
shaft to rotate faster than the other,
the faster turning side gear causes
the pinions to roll on the slower turn7
ing side gear to allow differentia'!
action between the two axle shafts.
INTEGRAL CARRIER
LIMITED SLIP AXLE
spin will occur if over acceleration is

attempted. However, with the limited slip differential, when the tendency for wheel spin occurs, the
friction generated between the cones
and the differential case transfers the
major driving force to the nonspinning wheel. In the event of continued spinning a whirring sound is
produced due to over-running of the
cones; such a condition or sound
does not indicate failure of the unit.
When the rear wheels are under

extreme unbalance tractive conditions, such as one wheel on dry road
and the other in mud or ice, with
the conventional differential wheel
EJ
4-5
REMOVABLE CARRIER
TRACTION LOK AXLE
The clutch capacity, due to the

preload springs and side gear thrust
loads, resists differential action.
Under normal cornering, the clutch
slips as the torque generated by
differential action easily overcomes
the clutch torque capacity allowing
normal differential action to take
place. Under adverse weather conditions where one or both wheels may
be on a low traction surface such as
snow, ice or mud, the friction
between the clutch plates will transfer
a portion of the usable torque tQ the
wheel with the most traction.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
Certain rear axle and drive line
trouble symptoms are also common
to the engine, transmission, tyces
and other parts of the car. For this
reason, be sure that the cause of
the trouble is in the rear axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of the axle parts.
REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Noise characteristics in a rear
axle are more difficult to diagnose
and repair than mechanical failures. Slight axle noise heard only
at a certain speed or under remote
conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise tends to peak or be

more pronounced at varying speeds
and the noise is in no way a sign
of trouble in the axle.
Where noise is present in an objectionable form, loud and/ or at all
speeds, the first effort should be
made to isolate the noise. Rear axle
noise is quite often confused with
other noises such as tyre noise,
transmission noise, driveshaft vibration and universal joint noise.
Isolation of the noise in any one
unit requires skill and experience.
An attempt to eliminate a slight
noise may baffle even the best diag-
nostic experts. Axle noises faiJ into

two basic categories: gear noise
and/ or bearing noise.
GEAR NOISE
Abnormal gear noise can be recognised since it produces a cycling
pitch and will be very pronounced
in the speed range at which it occurs, usuaiJy under drive, float,
cruise or coast conditions. Gear
noise tends to peak in a narrow
speed range or ranges, while bear
ing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch.
REAR AXLE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES

Since gears are in mesh, some
rear axle noise is normal. However,
excessive noise often indicates the
beginning of other troubles in the
axle.
EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE NOISE
A road test can help determine

whether the noise is being caused
by trouble in the rear axle or m
other parts of the car. Before road
testing the car, make sure that the
tyre pressures and the rear axle
lubricant level are normal. Then
drive the car far enough to warm
the axle lubricant to its normal operating temperature.
With the car stopped and the
transmission in neutral, run the engine at various speeds. If the noise
still exists during this test, it probably comes from the engine or the
exhaust system.
To determine if the noise is being
caused by the rear axle or the
tyres, drive the car over several

different types of road surfaces.
Smooth asphalt or black-top roads
minimize tyre noises. Tyre noises
may be eliminated by cross-switching the tyres. Snow tyres often
cause noises not heard with conventional tyres.
Noise caused by a worn or damaged wheel bearing is often loudest
when the car is coasting at low
speeds, and it usuaiJy stops when
the brakes are gently applied. To
find the noisy bearing, jack up each
wheel and check each bearing for
roughness while the wheel is rotating.
If all possible external sources of
noise have been checked and eliminated, and the noise still exists,
road test the rear axle under aiJ
four
driving
conditions~rive,
cruise, float, and coast. Any noise
produced by the sidegears and pin-
4-6
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES (cont.)

EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE NOISE
wns in the differential case will be

most pronounced on turns. A continuous whine under a light load
between 20 and 35 miles per hour
indicates rough or brinnelled pinion
bearings. If the tone of drive, coast
and ftoat noise differs with speed

and if the noise is very rough and
irregular; worn, rough or loose
differential or pinion shaft bearings
are indicated. Remove, disassemble,
and inspect the axle.
EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE

BACKLASH
Excessive backlash in the axle

driving parts may be caused by
worn axle shaft splines, loose axle
shaft ftange nuts, loose U-joint
ftange mountings, excessive. back-
lash between the drive pinion and

ring gear, excessive backlash in the
differential gears, or bearings which
are worn or out of adjustment.
BEARING NOISE
DRIVE SIDE
COAST SIDE
DESIRABLE PATTERN'
SHIM CORR~CT
BACKLASH CORRE CT
Defective bearings will produce

a whine that is constant in pitch
and varies with vehicle speed. This
fact will help distinguish between
bearing and/ or gear noise.
1. Pinion bearing noise can be
identified as a constant grinding
noise. Pinion bearings are rotating
at a higher speed than differential
side bearings or axle shaft bearings. The noise is most noticeable
at a slight pull between 18 to 26
miles per hour.
2. Wheel bearing noise may be
confused with rear axle noise. To
differentiate between wheel bearings and rear axle, drive the car
on a smooth road at medium low
speed. With traffic permitting, turn
the car sharply right and left. If
noise is caused by wheel bearings,
the no~se will increase on the defective bearing because of side
loading.
TOE
T OE
FIG. 5 -Ideal Tooth Pattern

mined by the ratio and the number
of teeth in the gears. The non-hunting and partial non-hunting types
can be identified by marks on the
pinion and ring gear teeth.
See Page; 4-2 for complete identification
specifications.
(a) The drive pattern should be

fairly well centred on the tooth.
(b) The coast pattern should be
centred on the tooth but may be
slightly toward the toe.
3. Side bearings will produce a

constant grinding noise of a slower
nature than pinion bearing, (side
bearing noise cannot be determined
by the wheel bearing test), but will
be in the same frequency as axle
shaft bearings.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT

PAnERN CHECK
FIG. 7 -Unacceptable
FIG. 6 -Acceptable
Paint the gear teeth and roll a pattern

as described on Page 4 -15 . After diagnosing the tooth pattern as explained
here, make the appropriate adjustments
as outlined in 4-17.
THE IDEAL TOOTH PAnERN
In making a final gear tooth contact pattern check, it is necessary

to recognise the fact that there are
three different types of gear set,
hunting, non-hunting and partial
non-hunting. Each type is deter-
Fig. 5 shows the ideal tooth pattern. This pattern is not a rigid
standard but merely a general rule.
In general, desirable tooth patterns should have the following
characteristics:
Hunting Gear Pattern
Non-Hunting PatternCentre-Toe-Centre
(c) Some clearance between th~>
pattern and the top of the tooth is
desirable.
(d) There should be no hard lines
where the pressure is high.
The individual gear set need not
conform exactly to the ideal pat-
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES

tern in order to be acceptable.
Characteristic differences between
the three types of gear sets as well
as differences between individual
gear sets of the same type will result in patterns that are acceptable
yet dift'erent from those shown in
4-7
DRIVE SIDE
; BACKLASH CORRECT
.004 THINNER SHIM
REQUIRED
COAST SIDE
Fig. 5
HUNTING GEAR SET

In a hunting-type gear set, any
one pinion gear tooth comes into
contact with all drive gear teeth.
In this type, several revolutions of
the ring gear are required to make
all possible gear combinations.
BACKLASH CORRECT'
.004 THICKER SHIM
REQUIRED
SHIM CORRECT
DECREASE BACKLASH
.004
SHIM CORRECT
INCREASE BACKLASH
.004
FIG.8 -Unacceptable
Non-Hunting PatternCentre-Heel-Centre
ACCEPTABLE PATTERN
FIG. 9 -Acceptable NonHunting Gear Set-Coast

Pattern
FIG. 11-Typical Gear Tooth Contact Patterns Indicating

Shim or Backlash Change
tooth, the pattern is a result of the
combined tooth contacts. Therefore,
the pattern is uniform from tooth
to tooth.
FIG. 10-Acceptable NonHunting Pattern-Uniform
FIG. 12-Pinion & Ring

Gear Tooth Contact
Adiustment
4-8
UNACCEPTABLE PATTERN
An erratic tooth pattern on a
hunting gear set indicates gear set
runout and is caused by one of the
following conditions:
1. Foreign matter between differential hemisphere gear locating
base and back face of crown wheel.
2. Faulty gear set
NON HUNTING GEAR SET
In a non hunting type gear set,
any <>ne pinion gear tooth comes
into contact with only a few ring
gear teeth . In this type, only one
revolution of the ring gear is required to make all possible tooth
contact combinations.
ACCEPTABLE PATTERNS
The drive patterns shown in
Figs. 7 and 8 were rolled on two
different non-hunting type gear
sets. The pattern in Fig. 7 runs
from the centre toward the toe and
then back to centre. The pattern
in Fig. 8 runs from the tooth centre
toward the heel and then back to
centre. These patterns are not unusual for non-hunting gear sets and
are acceptable. The pattern on any
one ring gear tooth was formed by
only one pinion tooth coming into
contact with it. Because of this limited tooth contact, the non-hunting
pattern can be more erratic than
the hunting pattern and still be acceptable. Likewise, the coast pattern on a non-hunting gear set is
usually less uniform tooth to tooth
than it would be on a hunting gear
set (Fig. 9 ).
Fig. 10 shows a pattern rolled on
another gear set. In this cast:, the
pattern is fairly uniform from
tooth to tooth.
UNACCEPTABLE PATTERN
A non-hunting gear set should be
checked for runout and possible replacement if the pattern runs from
the tooth centre towards the toe and
back to centre on some gear teeth
(Fig. 7) while on other teeth of the
same gear, the pattern runs from the
tooth centre toward the heel and
back to centre (Fig. 8).
A hunting gear set showing an
erratic tooth pattern could have one
of the following conditions:
1. Foreign matter between differential hemisphere gear locating
base and back face of crown wheel.
2. Faulty gear set.
A non-hunting gear set requires a
change in shimming or backlash when
its pattern tends to concentrate
toward the heel or toe, top or bottom
of most teeth (Fig. 11).
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
PARTIAL NON-HUNTING
GEAR SET
In a partial non-hunting type gear

set, any one pinion tooth comes into
contact with only part of the ring
gear teeth, but more than one
revolution of the ring gear is required
to make all possible gear tooth combinations.
Tooth to tooth pattern uniformity
will usually be in between the hunting and the non-hunting patterns.
Partial non-hunting gear set patterns
will usually be less uniform than
hunting gear set patterns, but more
uniform than non-hunting gear set
patterns.
SHIM AND BACKLASH
CHANGES
The patterns shown in Fig. 11 are

typical of gear sets that have either
an incorrect backlash or an incorrect
shim adjustment. Since each gear set
rolls a characteristic pattern, the
patterns in Fig. 11 should be considered as typical only and should be
used as a guide rather than a rigid
standard. The drive pattern is rolled
on the convex side of the tooth, and
the coast. pattern is rolled on the
concave s1de.
DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Vehicle vibration and roughness is

often the result of driveline variations. Driveline disturbance vibrations are usually high frequency
vibrations and are somewhat worse
on acceleration, or rapid deceleration.
The vibration produces a buzzing
feeling, a droning condition or, as
some customers describe, a "pressure
noise on the eardrums". It is likely
that the vibration sensation is more
noticeable in the rear seat and over
the driveline, than in any other area
of the car.
Driveline vibrations frequently
originate from excessive runout of
the driveline components, namely
pinion companion flange, the pinion
itself, driveshaft, slip yoke and
transmission output shaft. Runout
in these components will produce
vibrations due to the fact that the
components will be rotating on a
centre other than the centre of
balance.
Unbalance of one or more of the
driveline components will produce
vibration.
Driveline angles and the amount
of deflection across the universal
joints will also produce similar
vibrations.
LIMITED SLIP AND
TRACTION LOK AXLES
When encountering complaints of
limited slip or Traction Lok cone or

clutch plate chatter, the vehicle
should be driven in fairly tight
circles, 5 times clockwise and 5 times
anti-clockwise at approximately 5
m.p.h. to allow lubricant to work in
between the cone friction surfaces or
clutch plates.
If the chatter persists drain the
lubricant, refill the axle with the
specified lubricant and repeat the
foregoing procedure.
Should chatter still be evident dismantling of the differential for
further inspection and repair will be
necessary.
A whirring sound due to overrunning of the cones in the integral
carrier limited slip differential is no
indication of unit failure.
To test the Limited Slip or
Traction Lok differentials for correct
operation proceed as follows:
1. Raise one rear wheel and remove the wheel cover, attach Tool
T65K-4204-A at the wheel nuts
(Fig. 13).
2. Place the transmission in neutral.
3. Chock the front wheels.
4. Attach a torque meter of at
least 200 ft. lbs. capacity to the
torque check tool as in Fig. 13 and
rotate the axle.
NOTE: The torque required to
rotate the shaft should be at least
40 ft. lbs. for Traction Lok and
50 ft. lbs. for limited slip.
The initial breakaway torque may
be higher than the continuous turning torque. This is normal.
The axle should turn with reasonable evenness. However, the torque
may vary up to 40 ft . lbs. on Traction
Lok differentials.
If the torque required to continuously rotate the wheel is outside
specification check the differential
for
FIG. 13- Limited Slip or

Traction Lok Differential
-Torque Check on Vehicle
PART
EJ
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIR
REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL

BEARING, AND OIL SEAL
REPLACEMENT
REMOVABLE CARRIER AXLE
FIG. 14 -Removing Axle
Shaft-Typical
it is nicked deeply in several places
with a chisel.
5. Remove the bearing from the
axle shaft with the tool shown in
Fig: 16.
6. Inspect the machined surface
of the axle shaft and the axle housing for rough spots or other irregularities which would affect the
--
_ ..ll.
.....

from the brake drum.
2. Back-off the rear brake shoe
adjustments. Remove the nuts that
secure the brake drum to the axle
flange, and then remove the drum
from the flange.
3. Working through the hole

provided in the axle shaft flange,
remove the nuts that secure the
wheel bearing retainer. Then pull
the axle shaft assembly out of the
axle housing (Fig. 14 ) .
The brake carrier plate must not
be dislodged. Install one nut to
hold the plate in place after the
axle shaft is removed.
4. If the rear wheel bearing is
to t,e replaced, loosen the inner
retainer (Fig. 15). The retainer
will be : ome loose on the shafts, if
4-9
4-1-REAR AXLES
sw. ...
&
1MI-
ADJUSTAMI
liD NUS
~
:us..&
---.
......
.......,
FIG. 16- Removing and Installing Rear Wheel Bearing

......_iii;,_ (Removable Carrier Axle only)
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
FIG. 17- Removing and Installing Axle Shaft Seal Typical (Removable Carrier Axle only)
sealing action of the oil seal. Carefully remove any burrs or rough
spots.
FIG. 1 5 - Removing Rear

Wheel Bearing Retainer
Ring -Typical
tainer seats
bearing.
firmly
against
the
7. With the tool shown in Fig.

16 press a new rear wheel
bearing on the axle shaft. The bearing should seat firmly against thll
shoulder on the shaft.
9. If the axle shaft oil seal is

to be replaced, remove and replace
the seal with the tools shown in
Fig. 17. Soak the new seal in light
weight engine oil for A hour prior
to fitting.
8. With the bearing installation

tool, press the bearing inner retainer on the shaft until the re-
Coat the outside edge of seal

with oil resistant sealer and sparingly lubricate lip of seal.
4-10
GROUP
10. Place a new gasket on the

brake carrier plate and then slide
the axle shaft into the housin~.
Start the axle splines into the
side gear, and push the shaft in
until the bearing bottoms in the
housing.
11. Install the bearing retainer
and the nuts that secure it. Torque
the nuts to 30-35 foot-pounds.
12. Install the brake drum and
the drum retain ing nuts. Adjust
the brakes.
on the drum.
INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLE

REMOVAL OF AXLE SHAFT
FROM AXLE HOUSING .
(Brake drums removed)
Remove the clamping plate and pull the
shaft from the housing. The UNIT
TYPE BEARING cup will normally
stay in place in the axle housing when the
axle shaft is removed. The bearing cup
can be removed from the axle housing
by using a standard slide - hammer
type puller as in Fig. 14.
UNIT BEARING RIB RING

MOUNTED TOWARD
AXLE FLANGE
FIG. 1 8 -Seal and Unit

Type Bearing Installation
The UNIT TYPE BEARING cone
assembly should not be pulled
from the axle shaft unless :
1. The seal is to be replaced.
2. The clamping plate has to be
replaced due to damage or
distortion.
3. The bearing is to be replaced.
The bearing cone assembly should
have all parts completely covered
with rear axle oil prior to reinstallation into the axle housing.
Also apply oil to the seal seat on
the shaft.
Installation of Axle Shaft in Axle
Housing
1. Install the bearing cup in the
axle housing, ensure that the
cup back face is seated against
4-REAR AXLE
the backing shoulder in the

housing.
2. Care should be taken when
installing the axle shaft to avoid
seal damage. Start the splined
end of the shaft into the
differential and start the cup
rib ring and seal into the
housing.
3. Line up the clamping plate to
the clamping plate bolts and
push the axle into the housing
as far as possible.
4. Start the nuts onto the clamping plate bolts and tighten to
finger tight only. Then tighten
all nuts to approximately 15 ft.
pounds torque. The nuts
should be tightened in such a
manner to assure that the seal
and cup rib ring are drawn
evenly against the cup in the
housing. The final tightening
of the nuts should be done
with a torque wrench to 30-35
ft. pounds.
REAR AXLE BEARINGREMOVE AND INSTALL
To Remove
I. Retaining collar removal. The
retaining collar can be easily
removed by drilling a !" hole
in the outside diameter of the
collar to a depth approximately three-quarter the thickness of the collar. Do not drill
all the way through the collar
as the drill could damage the
axle shaft. After drilling the
retaining collar, position a
chisel across the drilled hole
and strike sharply to break
the collar.
NOTE - Backing collars are
not reuseable after having once
been installed and must be
scrapped after removal even
if some removal method is
used which does not cause
obvious damage to the collar.
2. Slide the clamping plate and
seal toward the axle flange.
3. Position the guillotine type puller
jaws (tool no. XYTC 1225)
behind the bearing cone face,
ensure that the jaws do not
touch the seal seat.
Install the axle with guillotine
jaws in position into the guillotine jaw retainer tool - Remove
the bearing.
NOTE - Do not heat or cut
the bearing assembly as damage
to the axle shaft will result.
To Inst31l
I. When installing new bearings,
FIG. 19- Tool for Bearing

Removal
2.
3.
4.
5.
new seals and retaining collars

must be used.
Check the clamping plate for
damage or distortion with a
straight edge. If the plate is
distorted, replace it.
Clean the axle shaft, ensure
that there are no burrs or nicks
on the bearing seat, cone backing shoulder and chamfer leading to the seal seat. Sharp
edges or nicks on the chamfer
leading to the seal will damage
the seal lips duririg installation
of the seal on the shaft. To
avoid damage to the wheel
studs, place the axle shaft
flange face on a support.
Install the clamping plate on
the axle shaft, ensure that it is
positioned with the clamping
face of the plate toward the
bearing.
Apply grease to the cavity
between the seal lips and carefully slide seal into position
on the seal seat. When installed
the outer face of the seal must
be toward the axle flange. Do
not push the seal onto the
rough surfaced portion of the
seal seat.
6. The new UNIT TYPE BEARING must be lubricated prior

to installation.
Do not wash a new bearing
prior to installation. The new
UNIT TYPE BEARING has a
protective grease which provides initial lubrication until
the re.a r axle lubricating oil
reaches the bearing.
If the new bearing has to be
washed for any reason, it must
then be completely lubricated
with rear axle oil prior to
installation.
7. Place the lubricated UNIT
TYPE BEARING on the axle
shaft ensuring the cup rib
ring is facing toward the axle
flange.
8. Install new retaining collar on

the axle shaft and allow it to
rest on the UNIT BEARING
cone assembly (Fig. 20).
9. Press the UNIT TYPE BEARING and the retaining collar
on to the axle shaft simul"
taneously using an installation
tube. Apply sufficient load to
assure the proper seating of all
parts. Check for proper seating of the bearing cone assembly against the shaft shoulder
and the backing collar against
the cone face by using feeler
gauges.
NOTE - When pressing the
bearing and retaining collar on
the axle shaft, be sure all faces
of the installation tubes are
square, parallel and free from
any burrs. Installing the retaining collar in a skewed
manner can reduce its holding
ability by as much as 50 per
cent.
10. Install axle shaft assembly into
axle housing as detailed on
page 4 10.
FIG. 20- Axle Shaft

Bearing and Seal
Installation
DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL
REPLACEMENT
Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,
soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.
1. Loosen, but do not remove
the carrier casting rear cover
to drain the lubricant.
2. Disconnect the drive shaft
from the drive pinion flange
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES
4-11
after marking the drive shaft

and pinion flange to ensure
correct positioning on reassembly (Fig. 28.)
tial carrier assembly from the axle

housing.
1. Raise the vehicle and install
safety stands. Remove both rear
wheels and brake drums.
2. Make scribe marks on the
drive shaft end yoke and the axle
U-joint flange to insure proper
position of the drive shaft at
assembly. (Fig. 28). Disconnect
the drive shaft from the axle U-joint
flange. Be careful to avoid dropping the loose universal joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on the
spider with tape. Mark the cups so
that they will be in their original
position in relation to the flange
when they are assembled. Remove
the drive shaft from the transmission extension housing. Install
an oil seal replacer tool in the
transmission extension housing to
prevent transmission fluid leakage.
3. Hold the flange with the tool shown

in Fig. 21 . Remove the pinion shaft nut
and spring washer.
4. Mark the end of the pinion shaft
and the pinion flange splines for realign
ment.
5. Clean the pinion bearing retainer
around the oil seal.
6. Remove the pinion flange with the
tool shown in Fig. 22 .
7. Remove the pinion oil seal.
R. Check the spline11 on the pinion
shaft and pinion flange for burrs and if
nece88ary clean up with fine crocus
cloth. Wipe the flange and shaft clean.
9. Clean the oil seal seat. The lubri.
cant return passage ~ust be clear.
10. Coat the outer edge of the new
seal with oil resistant sealer, and install
the seal, using the tool shown in Fig. 23.
II. Align the pinion flang~; spline
mark with the pinion shaft spline mark,
and install the flange with a smear of
lubricant on the splines.
12. Align the marks on the drive shaft
and the pinion flange and install the
drive shaft.
13. Install a new gasket under the
carrier casting rear cover and install the
cover bolts.
14. Torque the rear cover bolts to
20-25 foot-pounds.
15. Fill the axle with new lubricant to
1" below filler plug.
3. Install an in-lb torque wrench

on the pinion nut. Record the torque
required to maintain rotation of the
pinion shaft through several revolutions.
4. Scribe the pinion shaft and
the U-joint flange inner surface for
assembly realignment. (Fig. 28).
While holding the flange (Fig. 21),
remove the integral pinion nut and
washer.
5. Clean the pinion bearing retainer around the oil seal. Place a
FIG. 21 -Typical Drive

Pinion Shaft Nut Removal
DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL OR
FLANGE REPLACEMENT
REMOVABLE CARRIER WITH
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
Synthetic seals must not be

cleaned, soaked or washed in
cleaning solvent.
The drive pinion oil seal can be replaced without removing the differen-

Pinion Flange Removal
4-12
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
drain pan under the seal, or raise the

front of the vehicle higher than the
rear.
ly, until an additional preload of 8 to

14 in-lb over the original reading is
reached. The preload should not exceed 8 to 14 in-lb over the original
reading, or bearing failure may result.
Under no circumstances should the
pinion nut be backed off tO> lessen preload. If this is done, a new pinion
bearing spacer must be installed. In
addition, the U-joint flange must
never be hammered on, or pneumatic
tools used.
17. Remove the oil seal replacer
tool from the transmission extension
housing. Install the front end of the
drive shaft on the transmission output shaft.
6. Remove the U-joint flange.

1. Remove the drive pinion oil
seal.
8. Clean the oil seal seat.
9. Install the new seal in the retainer. Fig. 23.
Pinion Flange Seal

Installation
19. Check the lubricant level.

Make sure the axle is in running
position. Add whatever amount of
specified lubricant is required to
reach the lower edge of the filler
plug hole.
FIG. 23-Typical Drive

Pinion Flange Seal
Installation
CARRIER ASSEMBLY
FIG. 27 -Checking
Pinion Bearing Pre-load
FIG. 24-U-ioint Flange
Holding Tool
FIG. 25-Removing
U-joint Flange
18. Connect the rear end of the

drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange,
aligning the scribe marks made on
the drive shaft end yoke and the axle
U-joint flange. (Fig. 28).
10. Check splines on the pinion

shaft to be sure they are free of burrs.
If burrs are evident, remove them by
using a fine crocus cloth, working in
a rotational motion. Wipe the pinion
shaft clean.
11. Apply a small amount of lubricant to U-joint sp~ines.
Align scribe marks on U-joint
flange and pinion shaft.
12. Install the U-joint flange.
13. Install a new integral nut and
washer on the pinion shaft. (Apply a
small amount of lubricant on the
washer side of the nut).
14. Whilst holding the flange
tighten the nut. (Fig. 21).
15. Tighten the pinion shaft nut,
rotating the pinion occasionally to
ensure proper bearing seating, and
take frequent preload readings until
the preload is at the original recorded
reading established in step 3.
16. After original preload has been
reached, tighten the pinion nut slow-
REMOVAL
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist
and remove the two rear wheel and
tyre assemblies.
2. Remove the two brake drums

(3 Tinnerman nuts at each drum)
from the axle shaft flange studs. If
difficulty is experienced in removing
the drums, back off the brake shoes.
3. Working through the hole provided in each axle shaft flange, remove the nuts that secure the rear
wheel bearing retainer plate. Pull
each axle shaft assembly out of the
axle housing (Fig. 14). Care must
be exercised to prevent damage
to the production-type synthetic
oil seal, if so equipped. Any
roughing or cutting of the seal
element during removal or installation can result in early seal
failure. Install a nut on one of the
brake backing plate retaining bolts
to hold the plate to the axle housing
after the shaft has been removed.
4. Make scribe marks on the drive
shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint
flange to ensure proper position at
assembly. Disconnect the drive shaft
at the rear axle U-joint, remove the
drive shaft from the transmission ex-
PART 4-1-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL

tension housing. Install an oil seal
replacer tool in the housing to prevent transmission leakage.
housing. Install the copper washers

and the carrier-to-housing retaining
nuts, and torque to specification.
5. Place a drain pan under the

carrier and housing, remove the
carrier retaining nuts, and drain the
axle. Remove the carrier assembly
from the axle housing.
3. Remove the oil seal replacer

tool from the transmission extension
housing. Position the drive shaft so
that the front U-joint slip yoke splines
to the transmission output shaft.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the axle housing and

shafts using k~rosene and swabs. To
avoid contamination of the grease in
the sealed ball bearings, do not allow
any quantity of solvent directly on
the wheel bearings. Clean the mating
surfaces of the axle housing and
carrier.
2. Position the differential carrier
on the studs in the axle housing using
a new gasket between carrier and
4. Connect the drive shaft to the

axle U-joint flange, aligning the
scribe marks made on the drive shaft
end yoke and the axle U-joint flange
during the removal procedure (Fig.
28). Install the U-bolts and nuts and
torque to -specification.
5. Install the two axle shaft assemblies in the axle housing. Care
must be exercised to prevent
damage to the oil seals. The
shorter shaft goes into the left side
of the housing.
4-13
When installing an axle shaft, place

a new gasket on each side of the
brake backing plate and carefully
slide the axle shaft into the housing
so that the rough forging of the shaft
will not damage the oil seal. Start
the axle splines into the differential
side gear, and push the shaft in until
the bearing bottoms in the housing.
6. Instail the bearing retainers on
the attaching bolts on the axle housing flanges. Install the nuts on the
bolts and torque to specification.
7. Install the two rear brake
drums and the drum retaining (Tinnerman) nuts.
8. Install the rear wheel and tyre
assemblies.
9. If the rear brake shoe were
backed off, adjust the brakes.
10. Fill the rear axle with specified
lubricant.
4-14
PART
42
REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
Section
1 Removal and Installation of Rear Axle
Housing-All ..
2 Differential Assembly OverhaulIntegral Carrier Conventional
Page
4-14
4-15
Section
Differential Assembly OverhaulIntegral Carrier Limited Slip Differential
Differential Assembly Overhaul-Removable
Carrier Traction Lok Axle
Page
4-20
4- 20
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF REAR AXLE HOUSINGS-ALL
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car and support it
on the underbody
10. If the old drive pinion and

differential case assemblies are to be
installed in a new housing, refer to
Page 4-15 for removal and installation
procedures.
2. Place r.he brake carrier plates

in their normal position on the axle
housing. Use new gaskets on each
side of the brake carrier plates.
3. Install the axle shafts, brake
drums and . wheels.
2. Loosen the carrier casting

rear cover and drain the lubricant.
Discard the old lubricant.
3. Disconnect the drive shaft at
the drive pinion flange (Fig. 28 ).
4. Attach the hydraulic brake

line 'T' fitting to the axle housing,
and secure the hydraulic brake line
in its retainer on the axle housing.
4. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the axle housing.
5. Raise the axle housing and

connect the shock absorbers.
5. Remove both axle shafts using

the procedure given on Page 4-9.
FIG. 28 -Drive Shaft to

Drive Pinion Flange
Connection
INSTALLATION
8. Remove the hydraulic brake

'T' connection from the axle housing. Do not open the hydraulic
brake system lines. Remove the hydraulic brake line from its retaininc clip on the axle housing.
1. Raise the axle housing into

position so that the spring clip
plates can be installed.
7. Remove both brake carrier

plates from the axle housing and
suspend thern above the housing
with mechnics' wire. The hydraulic brake lines and the parking
brake cables ar~ still attached to
the brake carrier plates.
8. Support the rear axle hous-
ine on a jack, and then remove the

spring clip nuts.
clip plates.
~move
the spring
9. Lower the axle housing and

remove it from under the car.
FIG. 29-Rear Axle Installation
6. Connect the drive shaft at the

drive pinion shaft.
7. Fm the axle with the proper
grade and amount of lubricant to
i" beiow filler plug.
8. Road test the car.
EJ
Dl FFERENTIAL ASSEMBLy OVERHAUL
INSPECTION BEFORE
REMOVAL
The differential case assembly
&nd the drive pinion should be inspected before they are removed
from the housing. These inspections
can help to find the cause of the
trouble and to determine the corrections needed.
Wipe the lubricant from the internal working parts, and visually
inspect the parts for wear or damage.
Rotate the gears to see if there
is any roughness which would indicate defective bearings or chipped
gears. Check the gear teeth fc1
scoring or signs of abnormal wear.
4-15
INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL
tween the teeth. Wrap a cloth around the drive pinion flange to
act as a brake. Rotate the drive
gear back and forth (use a box
wrench in the drive gear attaching
bolts for a lever) until a clear
tooth contact pattern is obtained.
Certain types of gear tooth contact patterns on the drive gear indicate incorrect adjustment. Noise
caused by incorrect adjustment can
often be corrected by re-adjusting
the gears. Typical patterns and the
recessary corrections ar~ explained
on page 4-6
Under no circumstances should

the carrier be spread more than
.020 inch.
3. If the differential bearings
arc to be removed use the tools
shown in Fig. 33 to remove the old
bearings and install the new bearings in a press using replacer tool
4221A-B Fig. 34.
4. Remove the bolts that attach
t.he drive gear to the differential
t::ase. Press the drive gear from the
case or tap it off with a soft-faced
hammer.
Gear tooth r:unout can !lometimes

be detected by an erratic pattern
on the teeth. However, a rlial indicator should be used to measure
the runout of the back face of the
drive gear, as shown in Fig 31
This runout should not exceed .005
mch.
DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING AND
DRIVE PINION REMOVAL
1. Remove the differential bearing cap bolts and bearing caps.
2. Use a spreader (Tool 4010-A,

Fig 32) to facilitate the removal of
the differential housing and bearing cups (see paragraph of "Installation: Differential Bearing Preload" for spreader details).
FIG. 32 -Differential
FIG. 30-Ring Gear
Housing Spreader
Backlash Check
5. With a drift, drive out the
differential pinion shaft retainer
pin.
Check the differential case and

the drive pinion for end play.
Set up dial indicator (Fig. 30) and
check points around drive gear.
Backlash should be .005 to .007 inch
at tightest point.
obvious defect is noted,
check the gear tooth contact. Paint
the gear teeth with suitable gear
marking compound, such as a paste
made with dry red lead and a little
11i!. A mixture that is too wet will
run and ~mear. Too dry a mixture
cannot be pressed out from be-
6. Drive out the differential

pinion shaft with a drift.
7. Use a soft drift to separate
the two piece differential case.
Drive apart through the axle bore
onto one differential wheel (See
Fig. 35).
If no
FIG. 31-Ring Gear Runout
Check
8. Remove the differential side

gear
differential
pinions
and
washers.
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-16
9. Hold the drive pinion flange
and remove the pinion nut (Refer
Fig. 21 ). Remove the spring washer.
10. Remove the pinion flange (Page

4-11 Fig. 22.)
11. With a soft-faced hammer,

drive the pinion out of the front
bearing cone and remove it through
the rear of the carrier casting.
12. Drive against the pinion

front bearing cone, and drive the
their bores. If a 0.0015 inch feeler

gauge can be inserted between a
cup and the bottom of its bore at
any point around the cup, the cup
is not properly seated.
14. Remove the pinion
bearing cone (See Fig. 38 ).
rear
Wear on the hub of the difl'erential

wheel can cause a "chucking" noise
known as "chuckle" when the car
is driven at low speeds. Wear of
splines, thrust surfaces, or thrust
washers can contribute to excessive
drive line backlash.
BEARING CUPS
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL

AND DISASSEMBLY
Thoroughly clean all parts. Always use new solvent when cleaning
bearings. Oil the bearings immediately to prevent rusting. Inspect
the parts for any major defects.
Clean the inside of th~ housing before rebuilding and installing the
parts. Inspect individual parts as
outlined below.
GEARS
The pattern taken during disassembly should help in judging if
gears can be reused. Worn gears
cannot be rebuilt to correct a noisy
Check bearing q~ps for rings,

scores, galling, or erratic wear patterns. Pinion bearing cups must be
solidly seated. Check by attempting
to insert a 0.0015 inch feeler between these cups and the bottom
of their bores.
CONE AND ROLLER
ASSEMBLIES
When operated in the cups, bearing rollers must turn without
roughness. Examine the roller ends
for wear. Step-wear on the roller
ends indicates the bearings were
not preloaded properly or the rollers were slightly misaligned.
DRIVE PINION FLANGE
Be sure that the ears of the
flange have not been damaged in
removing the drive shaft or in removing the flange from the pinion.
The end of the flange that contacts
the bearing cone must be smooth.
Polish this face if necessary.
aggravates
backlash
Roughness
noises and causes wear of the
flange with a resultant loss in pinion bearing preload.
Bearing Removal
CARRIER CASTING
Make sure that the difl'erential
bearing bores are smooth and the
bearing abutment faces are not
damaged.
EI478A
FIG. 34-Differential
Bearing Installation
pinion flange seal and the bearing
cone out of the carrier casting.
13. If the pinion bearings cups
are to be replaced, drive them out
of the carrier casting with a drift.
Install the new cups with the tools
4615HF and 4625HR. Make sure
the cups are properly seated in
FIG. 35-Separatlng
Differential Assembly
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
condition. Gear scoring is the result

of excessive shock loading or the
use of an incorrect lubricant.
Scored gears cannot be reused.
Carefully examine the case hubs,

which may have been damaged
when the bearings were removed.
The bearing assemblies will fail if
they do not seat firmly on the hubs.
Examine the teeth and thrust surfaces of the difl'erential gears.
Check the fit of the difl'erential

wheel hubs in the case.
PART
ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
DRIVE PINION SHIM
SELECTION
The operating positions of the gears
require the use of an adjusting shim
between the pinion rear bearing cone and
the pinion gear (Page 4-7, Fig. 12).
When the shim thickness is decreased,
the pinion gear is moved away from the
drive gear. When the shim thickness is
increased, the pinion is moved closer to
the drive gear.
Manufacturing objectives are to
make axles with a gear mounting
<iistance of 3.720 inches. However,
particular gear sets have optimum
mounting distances differing from
this figure. The variation from this
standard distance is marked on
each drive pinion.
The drive pinion and ring gear
markings are shown in Fig. 36. The
number 5K-25 is the matching number that appears on both the drive
pinion and the ring gear. When a
new gear set is being installed in
an axle, be sure that the same matching number appears on both the
drive pinion and the ring gear.
A positive ( +) number on the
drive pinion always means that a
thinner shim should be installed to
move the pinion gear away from
the drive gear. A negative (-)
number means that a thicker shim
should be used to move the drive
pinion closer to the ring gear.
To select the correct shim thickness for the drive pinion to be used,
follow these steps:
1. Fit the pinion bearings to
the dummy pinion, and position
this with spacer in the carrier.
Tighten the nut to 15-25 lb. in
torque, rotating the dummy pinion
back and forth to ensure correct
seating of the bearing rollers.
2. Position the depth gauge cylinder in the carrier and fit the
bearing caps, tightening lightly.
3. Determine the size of pinion
position washer that will pass between the depth gauge and the
dummy pinion head, Fig. 37 . Examine the drive pinion installation
marking (Fig. 36). The size of the
pinion position washer should then
be altered as follows:
A positive (e.g. + .002") marking means that this pinion has to
be set at this number of thousandths of an inch further from the
4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
drive gear, i.e. a washer this

amount thinner must be used.
A negative (e.g. - .002") marking means that a washer this size
thicker must be used. A zero marking indicates that the washer selected with the gauge is the correct
one for this carrier I piniOn combination.
Position washers are
available: .002" increments from
.084" to .100".
4. Remove the tools from the
carrier.
4-17
pulled into the front bearing cone

and into the flange.
8. As soon as there is
on the bearings, turn the
shaft in both directions
times to seat the bearing
Tighten nut to 240 lb./ft.
iminimum).
preload
pinion
several
rollers.
torque
DRIVE PINION ASSEMBLY AND

INSTALLATION
1. Place the shim and pinion
rear bearing cone on the pinion
shaft. Press the bearing and shim
firmly against the pinion shaft
shoulder ( Fig. 38 ) .
2. Position drive pinion in carrier and install the original preload washer (chamfered side toward shoulder).
3. Lubricate the pinion rear
bearing with axle lubricant.
4. Lubricate the pm10n front
bearing cone and place it in the
housing.
5. Coat the outside edge of a
new oil seal with gasket cement,
and install it in the carrier casting.
6. Insert the drive pinion shaft
flange into the seal and hold it
firmly against the pm10n front
bearing cone. From the rear of the
carrier casting, insert the pinion
shaft into the flange.
7. Place the spring washer on
the p1mon shaft (concave side
against flange) and start the nut.
Hold the flange with the tool shown
in Fig. 21 , and tighten the pinion
shaft nut. As the pinion shaft nut
ia tightened, the pinion shaft is
FIG. 37 -Drive Pinion

Washer Selection Tool
9. Measure the preload with the
tool shown in Fig. 39 . With the nose
of the carrier up, and the handle
of the wrench floating, take readings with wrench moving through
several full turns. The correct preload is 15 to 30 lb. in. including oil
seal drag. Correct any binding condition (usually caused by dirt or a
faulty bearing). If the preload is
not in the specified range, use a
thinner preload washer to increase
preload, and a thicker washer to
decrease preload.
10. Remove the pinion and spacers from the carrier in readiness for
establishing differential case bearing preloads.
GEAfl SET IDENTIFICATION
FIG. 36-Drive Pinion and Ring Gear Marking
4-18
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY

AND INSTALLATION
8. Use the lock pin to locate

the two parts of the differential
case, and press them together.
hole, with the dial indicator plunger in contact with the opposite side
of the carrier opening.
ASSEMBLY
9. Place the drive gear on the

differential case and install the
bolts. Torque the bolts to 40-50 lb.
/ft.
5. Use the spreader to expand

the case until the differential assembly with bearings and selected
spacers will fit into the carrier.
A spread of .010" to .012" is usually sufficient UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
SHOULD
THE
CARRIER BE SPREAD MORE
THAN .020".
1. Lubricate all the differential

parts with the recommended rear
axle hypoid lubricant, before they
are installed.
INSTALLATION
2. Install a side gear with thrust

washer in the larger part of the
differential case.
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
PRELOAD
8. Place thrust washers on both

differential pinions and mesh the
pinions with the differential side
gear in the larger part of the differential housing, having the pinions 180 deg. apart.
1. Select any two spacer washers and place one against each of
the ditferential bearing cups. Place
the cups on the bearing cones and
install the differential assembly in
the carrier. When installed, there
should be a small amount of end
play.
4. Rotate the gears to align the

pinions and washers with the shaft
holes in the case.
5. Install the pinion shaft with
care not to damage the thrust
washers and to have the hole in
the shaft aligned with the lock pin
hole in the case.
6. Assemblies fitted with four
pinion differentials must have the
differential block fitted to the p:nion shaft between the differential
pinions. The differential half-shafts
and the additional two 'pinions are
then fitted.
7. Install the remaining gear

with thrust washer, in the small
part of the differential case.
2. With the differential held

firmly against one side of the carrier, use a feeler gauge on each
side of the centre line of the case
to measure the end play oetween
the cup and the spacer. (See Fig.
40 ). Rotate the carrier to seat the
bearing with the feeler gauges in
position, and check to see that the
end play has not been increased by
this procedure. Assuming two .258"
spacers were used, and .012" feeler
gauges were needed to eliminate
the end play, then two .264" spacers would also produce zero end
play. (i.e . .258" + .012"/2).
3. Tentatively
select spacers
which will increase the total spacer
thickness. .004" (i.e. increase the
spacer on each side .002", e.g. each
spacer becomes .266").
4. Fit the carrier spreader adaptors Fig. 41 and the spreader to
the carrier, together with a dial
indicator Fig. 42, positioned over
the carrier differential opening, as
close as possible to the centre line
of the axle shafts. This may be
done by using a pilot stud screwed
into the side bearing lower stud
6. The
differential
assembly,
with bearing cups and the selected
spacers held against the bearing
cones, may now be fitted to the
carrier, first removing the dial indicator.
7. Release
spreader tool.
and
remove
the
8. Fit the bearing caps, tightening the bolts to 35-45 lb. !'t. torque. Note that the caps are identified by a brand on the side of the
cap and on the carrier. The caps
MUST be replaced in their original
positions, as they are not interchangable.
9. Rotate the differential assembly at least six times to seat
the bearing rollers.
10. Check the preload by measuring with a spring balance the
tension in a string wrapped around
the differential case on the larger
diameter (6.12") just behind the
drive gear ( Fig. 43 ) . Minimum
balance reading must be 3.3 lbs.,
maximum 6.5 lbs. (equals 10 to
20 lb. in preload torque).
11. Remove the assembly from
the carrier, using the spreader. I!
the preload is correct, tie the selected spacers to the bearing cups
to have them available for use in
determining gear backlash. If the
preload is incorrect, select larger
or smaller spacers to increase or
decrease preload, then repeat steps
4 to 11.
DRIVE GEAR AND PINION

BACKLASH
1. Install the pinion in the carrier in accordance with the procedure of paragraphs 1-9 of Drive
Pinion Assembly and Installation.
Bearing Removal and

Installation
Preload Check
2. Install the differential assembly with the tentatively selected

spacers in the carrier, following

the procedure in Differential Installation 418.
3. Measure the backlash shown
in Fig.26. Measure the backlash on
several teeth around the drive gear
to find the minimum position. Backlash here should be .005 to .007''.
If the backlash . is not within this
range, dee:rease the thickness of
one differential bearing spacer and
increase the other by the same
amount. The amount of change of
each spacer is very approximately
equal to the amount of change required to correct the backlash reading. It is most important that the
total thickness of both spacers be
the same after backlash adjustment as before, so that correct preload is retained.
4-19
2. Increasing backlash moves

the drive gear away from the pinion:
(a) Drive pattern moves slightly
higher and toward the heel.
(b) Coast pattern moves higher
and toward the heel.
3. Thicker shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion
closer to the drive gear:
(a) Drive pattern moves deeper
on the tooth (ftank contact) and
slightly toward the toe.
(b) Coast pattern moves deeper
on the tooth and toward the heel.
4. Thinner shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion
further from the drive gear:
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT

PATTERN CHECK
FIG. 42 -Dial Indicator

Paint the gear teeth and take a contact
pattern as described in "Diagnosis and
Testing", Page 4-7, Fig. 11, shows some
drive and coast patterns and indicates
changes required to obtain the correct
operating position of the gears. The
movement 'of tooth contact patterns with
changes in gear locations can be summarised as follows:
Position for Checking

Carrier Spread
1. Decreasing
backlash moves
the drive gear closer to the pinion:
4. Fill the axle with the proper

grade of lubricant. The lubricant
level is 1" below the bottom of the
filler plug hole with the axle in
normal running position.
2. Install the cover and a new

gasket on the carrier casting rear
face.
3. Torque the cover bolts to 2025 foot-pounds.
FIG. 41 -Carrier Spreader
Adaptors
(a) Drive pattern moves toward
Replace axle housing

vehicle, refer 4-14 .
assy. in
the top of the tooth (face contact)

and toward the heel.
(b) Coast pattern moves toward
the top of the tooth and slightly
tcward the toe.
If the patterns are not correct,
make the changes as indicated.
FIG. 40 -Bearing Cup to

Spacer End Play Check
When the pattern is correct, remove the marking compound from

the gear teeth. Regardless of all
previous measurements and other
factors, the tooth contact pattern
must be correct for successful rear
ax!e operation.
(a) Drive pattern (convex side

of gear) moves slightly lower and
toward the toe.
AXLE SHAFT, DRIVE SHAFT AND

REAR COVER INSTALLATION
(b) Coast pattern (concave side of

gear) moves lower and toward the
toe.
1. Install the axle shafts. Refer to

Page 4HO for proper procedure.
FIG. 43 -Ring Gear

Bearing Preload Check
4-20
INTEGRAL CARRIER
LIMITED SLIP
The removal and installation procedure, ring gear and pinion settings,
tooth markings and overhaul procedure for the limited slip differential are the same as for the conventional axle, except for servicing the
internal components of the differential assembly.
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
1. Place the assembly in a vice

equipped with copper jaws.
2. Remove the differential cover
to cap attaching bolts and lift off the
cover.
3. Remove the cone, side gear,
thrust block, thrust springs, pinion
shaft and gears.
4. Remove the remaining thrust
block, side gear and cone.
5. Withdraw the pinion shaft
dowel from the case.
6. Remove the cones from the
cap and differential cover, if they
have remained with their respective
mating parts.
NOTE: To ensure that the cones
are not interchanged during reassembly, mark the cone and the
corresponding side of the differential
case with a daub of paint. Also check
for any shims which may be fitted
between the cones and side gears.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL
AND DISASSEMBLY
Thoroughly clean and dry all parts

and inspect for the following:
1. The cone seats in the cap and
cover should be smooth and free of
any excessive scoring. Slight grooves
or scratches are permissible and
normal.
2. The land surfaces of the cones
will duplicate the case surface condition. Excessive wear or damaged
cone surfaces will necessitate renewal
of the cone and casing.
3. Inspect thrust springs for
damage and comparitive free-length.
Replace where necessary.
4. Check the thrust blocks for
excessive wear.
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE

1. Clamp tool T65K-4204-A or
an axle shaft in a vice with approximately 3 inches extending above the
vice jaws.
2. Place the cap side of the differential case over the extended tool
or axle shaft spline with the interior
facing upward.
3. Install the cone (as identified
in item 6 of disassembly procedure),
over the splines, seating it in position
in the cap; followed by a shim (if
originally fitted) and the side gear.
4. Place a thrust block on the side
gear with the cut outs in line with
the pinion shaft groove in the case.
5. Install the pinion shaft, pinions and thrust washers. Position the
shaft so that the dowel hole is in line
with the hole in the cap, and install
the dowel.
6. Install the thrust springs and
place the second thrust block over
the springs.
7. Place the remaining side gear
on the thrust block.
8. Install a shim (if originally
fitted) on the side gear and place the
cone on top.
9. Install the differential cover
over the cone, making sure the
matched stampings on both halves
of the case are in line.
10. Install two attaching bolts in
opposite holes and tighten finger
tight.
11. Install the remaining part of
tool T65K-4204-A with adaptor
spline, or an axle shaft through the
differential cover, rotating the tool to
enter the cone splines and then the
side gear splines. Leaving the tool in
this position install the remaining
bolts and tighten evenly to 21-26
lbs. ft.
12. Remove the tools or axle shaft
from the assembly.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: When assembling the unit

use tool T65K-4204-A with spline
adaptors or axle shaftsas a mounting
to ensure correct alignment of the
side gear and cone splines. Attempting to force the axle shafts through
misaligned splines will result in
damage to the spring thrust blocks.
FIG. 44 -Limited Slip or

Traction Lok Differential
-Torque Check on
Diff. Assembly Removed
NOTE: If the tool or axle shaft

binds in the spline a light tap with a
hammer may be necessary.
Mter the unit has been assembled
into the housing, do not attempt to
rotate one axle shaft until the other
shaft is in position. Rotation of one
axle shaft without the other shaft
installed will result in misalignment
of cone and side gear splines and prevent entry of the second axle shaft.
"On car" type wheel balances are
not recommended for use on the rear
wheels of cars fitted with Limited Slip
or Traction Lok differentials. One
rear wheel will drive if in contact
with the ground when the opposite
wheel is raised.
The torque required to turn the
side gears and cones prior to assembling the differential to the axle
housing is 50 lb. ft. minimum. This
figure can be checked using tool
T65K-4204-A as illustrated in Fig.
44. If under this test the torque is
below the specified 50 lbs. ft. it may
be adjusted by altering the shims
between the side gears and cones.
Two shims of 0.005 and 0.010
inches thick are available for this
purpose.
REMOVABLE CARRIER
TRACTION LOK AXLE
OVERHAUL PROCEDURES
Mter removing the carrier from

the axle housing as described in
Part 4- 2 mount the carrier in a
holding fixture. Then disassemble the
carrier as outlined in the following
procedures.
REMOVAL AND
DISASSEMBLY OF
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
1. Mark one differential bearing

cap and the mating bearing support
with punch marks to help position
the parts properly during assembly
of the carrier. Also, mark one of the
bearing adjusting nuts and the carrier
with scribe marks for proper location
during assembly.
2. Remove the adjusting nut
locks, bearing caps, and adjusting
nuts. Then lift the differential
assembly out of the carrier.
3. If the differential bearings are
to be removed, use the tool shown in
Fig. 46.
4. Mark the differential case,

cover, and ring gear for assembly in
the original position.
5. Remove ten bolts securing the
ring gear to the differential case
P.ART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL

assembly. The ring gear must be
removed in order to separate the case
halves.
6. Remove the ring gear by tapping the gear with a soft hammer or
press the gear from the case.
7. Place the differential case in a
press to load the case at the bearing
journals so that the pre-load of the
springs is overcome (approx. 1,500
lbs.). (If a press is not available,
two 7/16" bolts and nuts can be
used in the ring gear mounting
holes (one on each side) to compress the case halves together
and overcome pre-load spring
tension.) Then, while the case is
still under pressure, loosen the two
Allen or Phillips head screws which
hold the case halves together until
one or two threads of the screws
remain engaged. Remove the case
assembly from the press. Tap on the
cover to spring it loose; then, remove
both screws.
8. With the cover facing down,
lift off the case. Remove the pre-load
spring plate and four pre-load springs.
9. From the cover remove the
side gear, four clutch plate ear guides,
clutch hub, friction and steel clutch
plates and shim(s).
10. With a suitable drift, drive out
4-21
FIG. 47 -Removing
Differential Pinion
Shaft Lock Pin
Bearing Removal
the pinion shaft lock pins from the
case (Fig. 47 ).
11. With a brass drift, drive out
the long pinion shaft from the case.
Drive from the end opposite the lock
pin hole ( Fig. 48).

12. Remove the two short pinion
shafts using a drift, driving each
shaft from the centre outward. Lift
out the centre block, then remove the
pinion gears, thrust washers and side
gear and thrust washer.
13. If the differential bearings are
removed, the bearing~ can be installed in one of the following ways:
a. With the differential case and
cover completely assembled.
DIFFERENTIAL
COVER
\
SIDE
DIFFERENTIAL
CAP
DIFFERENTIAL
BOLTS
I
/
THRUST
WASHER
THRUST
BLOCK
PINION SHAFT
DOWEL
FIG. 45 - Integral Carrier Limited Slip Differential
4-22
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
FIG. 48- Driving Out

Differential Pinion Shaft
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
b. On the case or cover when disassembled. However, when pressing the bearing on the cover, a
block of wood or fibre must be
used as shown in Fig. 49 in order
to avoid damage to the cover.
ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate all parts with ESWM2C-119-A locker lubricant during
assembly.
2. Mount the differential case in
a soft jawed vice and place a side gear
thrust washer and side gear in the
counterbore of the case.
3. Install the pinion thrust washers and place the pinion gears on the
side gear aligning the holes in the
washers and gears with the holes in
the case.
4. Install the centre block so that
the shaft holes are aligned with the
holes in the pinion gears and case.
The centre block has two machined sides and two rough sides.
5. With a brass drift, drive in the
long pinion shaft from the outside of
the case aligning the lock pin holes in
the shaft with the holes in the case.
The centre block should be positioned so the long shaft is driven
through the rough side and short
shafts driven through the machined side (Fig. 50).
6. With a suitable drift, install
the shaft lock pins. Make sure the
pinion and side gears move freely.
7. Place the four pre-load springs
in the holes provided in the centre
block.
8. Position a pre-load plate over
the four springs, making sure the
springs are properly seated. The preload plate straddles the centre block
over its narrower or machined width.
9. Mount the differential cover in
a soft jawed vice or holding fixture.
10. Insert shim(s) of 0.050 total
thickness in the cover cavity.
11. When new clutch plates are
used, soak the plates in ESW-
FIG. 49-lnstalling Differential Bearing Traction Lok
PRELOAD SPRINGS
FIG. 50 - Center Block and Pre Load Springs

Installation

M2C-119-A lubricant for approximately 30 minutes before installation.
12. Place the clutch hub with the
clutch plates into the clutch ear
cavities in the differential cover.
Make sore that the splines on the last
friction plate are engaged on the hub.
13. Obtain locally a i" x 2!" or
-&" x 2!" bolt, nut and two lt" outside diameter flat washers approx. i
in thickness. These parts are required
to compress the clutch pack in order
to obtain the proper shim selection
(Fig. 51). Install a flat washer on the
bolt, and place the bolt through the
clutch hub. Hold the bolt in position
and turn the cover over. Place a flat
washer on the bolt and then install
the nut. Be sure the washers are
centred, and torque the nut 10 to
15 lb. ft. (Fig. 52).
14. Place the shim template tool
(T68P-4946-A) in the clutch hub
(Fig. 52). Some clearance should be
observed between the shim tool and
the cover-to-case mating surface.
DIFFERENTIAL COVE
Using a feeler gauge, determine

the exact amount of clearance.
Refer to the shim pack thickness

chart which will indicate the correct
amount of shim(s) to subtract from
the 0. 050 shim originally installed.
In order to correctly select the
proper shim(s), the shim template tool and the chart must be
used.
FIG. 51 -Clutch Pack

Installation
15. Mter the proper shim selection

is determined, remove the bolt, nut
and flat washers. If it is necessary to
revise the shim thickness, remove the
clutch hub and clutch plates.
16. Install the selected shim(s) in
the cover cavity, re-install the components as outlined in Steps 8 and 9.
17. Install the four steel clutch ear
guides and side gear.
18. Place both assemblies in a press,
and press the two halves together;
then, insert the two Allen head or
Phillips head screws, and tighten
evenly until tight. If a press is not
available, any two stock bolts and
nuts may be used opposite each other
in the ring gear retaining holes to
compress both halves.
19. Install the ring gear and ring
gear bolts and washers. Tighten
evenly and alternately across the diameter of the ring gear. Torque the
bolts to 65-80 ft-lbs.
20. Prior to installation of the
Traction Lok differential into a
vehicle, a bench torque check must
be made. With currently released
locker tools, check the torque re-
FIG. 52- Shim Template Tool Application
4-23
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-24
SHIM PACK THICKNESS CHART TRACTION-LOK DIFFERENTIAL

Feeler
Remove Shim(s)
Total Req'd
From
Shim Pack
Gauae
Nominal
Readina
Thick ness <D
0.001
0.002
0.003
0.004
0.005
0.006
0.007
0.008
0.009
0.010
O.Oll
0.012
0.013
0.014
0.015
0.016
0.017
None
0.005
0.010
0.015
0.050
Feeler
Gauae
Readina
0.028
0.029
0.030
0.031
0.032
Remove Shim( s)
From
Nominal
0.030
Total Req'd
Shim Pack
Thickness <D
0.020
0.045
0.033
0.034
0.035
0.036
0.037
0.035
0.015
0.035
0.038
0.039
0.040
0.041
0.042
0.040
0.010
0.045
0.005
0.050
0.000
0.040
0.018
0.019
0.020
0.021
0.022
0.020
0.030
0.043
0.044
0.045
0.046
0.047
0.023
0.024
0.025
0.026
0.027
0.025
0.025
0.048
0.049
0.050
<DService Shims are available in 0.010" and 0.005" Thicknesses.
quited to rotate one side gear while

the other is held stationary. The
initial breakaway torque may exceed
250 lb. ft. The rotating torque required to keep the side gear turning
with new clutch plates is 100 to 250
lb. ft. With re-used clutch plates, the
minimum torque required is 40 lb. ft.
(The torque may fluctuate 10-40
lb. ft.).
REMOVAL AND
DISASSEMBLY OF
DRIVE PINION AND
BEARING RETAINER
1. Turn the carrier case upright,
and remove the pinion shaft nut
(Fig. 24). Then remove the U-joint
flange (Fig. 25).
2. Remove the seal (Fig. 53) and
the slinger.
3. Remove the pinion, bearing,
and retainer assembly from the carrier housing. Measure the shim
thickness with a micrometer. Record
this original shim thickness. If a new
gear set is installed during assembly,

a new shim will have to be installed.
The original shim thickness is one of
the factors necessary in determining
the new shim thickness. Extreme
care must be taken not to damage

the mounting surfaces of the
retainer and carrier.
FIG. 54 -Removing
FIG. 53- Removing
Pinion Seal
Pinion Front Bearing

Cone
FIG. 58- Removing Pinion

Rear Bearing Cup
FIG. 55-Removing
Pinion Rear Bearing

Cone
4. Place a protective sleeve (hose)
on the pinion pilot bearing surface.
Press the pinion shaft out of the
pinion front bearing cone (Fig. 54).
5. Press the pinion shaft out of
the pinion rear bearing cone (Fig. 55).
PARTS REPAIR OR
REPLACEMENT
Clean and inspect all the parts. Before assembling the carrier, repair or
replace all parts as indicated by the
inspection.
The principal replacement operations are covered in the following
procedures. All other repair or replacement operations are performed
during cleaning and inspection, or
during the assembly in this section.
PILOT BEARING
1. Remove the pilot bearing as
shown in Fig. 56. Drive out the pilot
bearing and the bearing retainer together.
2. Drive the new bearing in until
it bottoms as shown in Fig. 57.
3. Using the same tool, install a
new pilot bearing retainer with the
concave side up.
PINION BEARING CUPS
Do not remove the p1mon
bearing cups from the retainer
unless the cups are worn or damaged. The flange and pilot of the
retainer are machined during manufacture by locating on these cuPS
after they are installed in their bores.
If the cups are worn or damaged,
they should be removed and replaced
as shown in Fig. 58.
Mter the new cups are installed
(Fig. 59), make sure they are seated
4-25
FIG. 56 -Removing
Pilot Bearing
in the retainer by trying to insert a
0.0015-inch feeler gauge between
the cup and the bottom of the bore.
Whenever the cups are replaced
the cone and roller assemblies should
also be replaced.
PINION BEARING SPACER
INSTALLATION
1. Install the drive pinion rear
bearing cone and roller on the pinion
shaft (Figs. 60 or 61).
Place a new spacer on the pinion
shaft (Fig. 62).
2. Place the bearing retainer on
the pinion shaft, and install the front
FIG. 59 - Installing Pinion

Front Bearing Cup
Tooi-T62F-4625-A
or 4625 -AC-l and 2
l.~~~~-- DRIVE
PINION
FIG. 57 -Installing Pilot
Bearing
FIG. 60- Installing Pinion Rear

Bearing Cone
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-26
C)
Tooi -4621 -L
I,,
in the retainer is as specified. If the

torque required to rotate the pinion
is less than specified, tighten the
pinion shaft nut a little at a time until
the proper preload is established. Do
not overtighten the nut. If excessive preload is obtained as a result of
overtightening, replace the collapsible bearing spacer.
FIG. 61- Installing Pinion Rear

Bearing Cone
bearing cone and roller. Press the
front bearing cone and roller into
position as shown in Fig. 63. Be careful not to crush the bearing spacer.
3. Lubricate the 0-ring with axle
lubricant and install it in its groove in
the pinion retainer. Be careful not to
twist it. Snap the 0-ring into position.
4. Place the proper shim on the
carrier housing and install the pinion
and retainer assembly, being careful
not to pinch the 0-ring (Fig. 64).
5. Install the pinion attaching
bolts. Torque the bolts to specification.
6. Place the slinger over the
pinion shaft and against the front
bearing.
7. Install a new seal in the bearing retainer (Fig. 65).
8. Install the U-joint flange.
9. Start a new iJ?.tegral nut and
washer on the pinion shaft.
10. Hold the flange and torque
the pinion shaft nut to 175 ft-lbs. Do
not exceed 175 ft-lbs at this time.
11. Check the pinion bearing preload as shown in Fig. 66 . Correct
pre-load will be obtained when the
torque required to rotate the pinion
FIG. 64- Removing or Installing

Pinion and Retainer Assembly
FIG. 63- Installing Pinion

Front Bearing
Do not back off the pinion shaft
nut to establish pinion bearing
preload. If the torque on the pinion
shaft nut is less than 175 ft-lbs after
bearing pre-load is established, a new
collapsible spacer must be used.
DIFFERENTIAL CASE,
BEARINGS AND RING GEAR
If the ring gear runout check (before disassembly) exceeded specifications, the condition may be caused
by a warped gear, a defective case,
or excessively worn differential bearings.
To determine the cause of excessive runout proceed as follows:
1. Assemble the two halves of the
differential case together without the
ring gear, and press the two differ-
FIG. 65- Installing Oil Seal

entia! side bearings on the case hubs.
2. Place the cups on the bearings
and set the differential case in the
carrier.
3. Install the bearing caps and
adjusting nuts as outlined in step 11
thru 14 under Assembly and Installation of the Differential Case in this
section.
0 -RING
LOCK
PILOT
BEARING
FLANGE
mb;
N~~, ~'I
SEAL
FRONT BEARING
RtTAINER
SHIM
PINION
PILOT
BEARING
E 1782-A
FIG. 62- Pinion and Bearing Retainer
FIG. 66- Checking Pinion

Bearing Preload
4. Tighten the right nut two
notches beyond the position where
it first contacts the bearing cup.
Rotate the differential case several
revolutions in each direction while
the bearings are loaded to seat the
bearings in their cups. This step is
important.
5. Again loosen the right nut to
release the preload. Check to see that
the left nut contacts the bearing cup.
Using a dial indicator, adjust the
preload to 0. 012 case spread for new
bearings or 0. 005 to 0 . 008 for the
original bearings, if re-used.
6. Check the runout of the differential case flange with a dial indicator.
If the runout does not now exceed
specifications, install a new drive
gear. If the runout still exceeds
FIG. 67- Pinion and Ring

Gear Markings
specifications, the ring gear is true
and the trouble is due to either a
defective case or worn bearings.
7. Remove the differential case
from the carrier and remove the side
bearings from the case.
8. Install new bearings on the
case hubs, and again install the differential assembly in the carrier without the ring gear.
9l Check the case runout again
with the new bearings. If the runout
is now within limits, the old bearings were excessively worn. Use the
new bearings for assembly. If the
runout is still excessive, the case is
defective and should be replaced.
DRIVE PINION AND
RING GEAR SET
When replacing a ring gear and
pinion, note that the original factory
4-27
installed shim is of the correct thickness to adjust for individual variati(ms in both the carrier housing
dimension and in the original gear
set dimension. Therefore, to select
the correct shim thickness for the
new gear set to be installed, follow
these steps:
1. With a micrometer, measure
the thickness of the original shim removed from the axle and use the
same thickness upon installation of
the replacement carrier assembly or
drive pinion. If further shim change
is necessary, it will be indicated in
the tooth pattern check.
2. If the original shim is lost,
substitute a nominal shim for the
original and use the tooth pattern
check to determine if further shim
changes are required. Nominal shim
thickness is indicated in the Specifications Section.
A new ring gear and pinion should
always be installed in an axle as a
matched set (never separately). Be
sure the same identifying (matching) number, painted in white,
appears on the bolt hole face of
the ring gear and on the head of
the drive pinion (Fig. 67).
3. After determining the correct
shim thickness as explained in the
foregoing steps, install the new
pinion and ring gear as outlined
under Assembly.
4-28
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
4-3
ADJUSTMENTS INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLES

Inch
0.005"~.007"
Backlash between Ring Gear and Pinion
Max. 0.003"
Backlash Variation between Teeth

Rear Bearing Cone to Drive Pinion-Available Shims
Thickness 0.080"~.1 00" in 0.002" increments
Differential Bearing Adjustment-Available Shims
Thickness
0. 254"~.284"'
in 0.002" increments
Drive pinion preload adjustment-Available Shims

Thickness
0 .070"~ . 106"
in 0.00 I" increments
Runout of beck face of ring gear as assembled
Max. 0.005"
INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP AXLE

Minimum rotating torque required to turn axle shaft and side gear with one wheel on ground ..
Rotating torque required during bench check after assembly original or new cones and housing
50 lbs. ft.
50 lbs. ft.
DIIVI PINION ADJUSnNG SHIM THICKNISS CHANGII--INCH

Old P111t1
lllrklll
+4
+3
+2
+1
0
-1
-2
-3
-4
New Pinion Mullin&
-4
-S
-2
-1
+1
+2
+3
+4
+0.008
+0.007
+0.006
+0.005
+0.007
+0.006
+0.005
+0.004
+0.005
+0.004
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+0.002
+0.001
+0.001
0
-0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-0.004
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
+0.001
0
-0.001
+0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
0
-0.001
+0.003
+0.002
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-0.004
-0.003
-0.004
-0.005
-0.004
-0.005
-0.004
-0.005
-0.005
-0.006
-0.006
-0.007
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
+0.006
+0.005
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
-0.001
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.002
-0.003
-0.002
-0.003
-0.006
-0.007
-0.008
PART 4-3-SPKfiCAnONS
REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK
4-29
NOTE: All specifications are civen in inches unless otherwise noted.
Backlash between ring qear and pinion

Maximum backlash variation between teeth
Maximum runout of backface of ring gear
Differential side gear thrust washer thickness
Differential pinion gear thrust washer thickness
Nominal pinion locating shim
Available pinion gear shims in steps of . 001
Maximum radial runout of U joint flange in assembly
Minimum torque required to tighten pinion flange nut to obtain correct pinion
bearing preload
Pinion bearing preload original bearings. with oil seal
Pinion bearing preload new bearings. with oil seal
Minimum rotating torque required to turn axle shaft and side gear with one
wheel on ground
tRotating torque required during bench check after assembly
original clutch plates
new clutch plates
0 . 008-0. 012
0 .003
0 .003
0 .030-0.032
0 .030-0 . 032
0 .015
0 .010-0 .029
0 .010T.I.R.
175 lbs. ft.
8-14 lbs. in.
22-32 lbs. in.
40 lbs. ft.
40 lbs. ft. min.
100-250 lbs. ft.
If pinion bearing preload exceeds specification before this torque is obtained. install a new spacer.
tRotating torque may fluctuate up to 40 lbs. ft.
TORQUE LIMITS INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLES

Torque Umm
Rear Cover Bolts
Ft. Lbs.
20- 25
Differential Bearing Cap Screws

Drive Pinion Nut (Minimum Torque)
35-45
240-280
Ring Gear Attaching Bolts
40-
Rear Springs to Axle Housing U Bolts
35-
so
so
Universal Joint Bolt Nuts

Axle Identification 199071 199072 199073
199069 199070
12- IS
7- 10
Rear Shock Absorber to Rear Spring
IS- 25
Clip Plate Assembly Nuts
IS- 25
Axle Shaft Bearing Retainer Nuts

Pinion Bearing Preload (Including Oil Seal Drag)
Differential Assembly PreLoad (Pull Measured
30-35
IS-301b. ins.
3.31b. Min.
From String Wrapped Around the Differential Case

larger Diameter
b.Sib. Max.

Differential bearing cap bolt
Differential bearing adjusting nut lock bolts
Carrier to housing stud nuts
Pinion retainer to carrier bolts
Ring gear attaching bolts
Oil filler plug
Rear axle shaft bearing retainer bolt nuts
70-85 lbs. ft.

1 2-25 lbs. ft.
25-40 lbs. ft.
30-45 lbs. ft.
65-80 lbs. ft.
25-50 lbs. ft.
30-35 lbs. ft.
4-30
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE LUBRICATION

INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL
GRADE
FORD SPECIFICATION
CAPACITY
SAE 90
ESW-M2C-108A
2.3 IMP. PINTS
INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP

GRADE
FORD SPECIFICATION
CAPACITY
SAE 90
ESW-M2C-1006A
2.3 IMP. PINTS

GRADE
FORD SPECIFICATION
CAPACITY
SAE 90
ESW-M2C-119A
4 IMP. PINTS
REAR AXLE RATIOS, GEAR AND CODE IDENTIFICATION
Type
Ratio
3.23 : 1
2.92 : 1
3.5 :1
3.23 : 1
2.92 : 1
3.5: 1
3.23 : 1
2.92 : 1
3.50: 1
2.75
3.00
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
4
4
4
4
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion L.S.
Diff Pinion L.S.
Diff Pinion L.S.
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Diff Pinion
Identification
Label
Ring Gear
Dia.lns.
Ring Gear
No. of Teeth
7.5
7.5
7.75
7.5
7.5
7.75
7.5
7.6
7.75
9.00
9.00
42
38
35
42
38
35
42
38
35
33
39
199 265
199 267
199 266
199 268
199 271
199 269
199 273
199 272
199 270
D2DW-BA
D2DW-CA
Pinion Drive Gear

No. of Teeth
13
13
10
13 (1)
13 (1)
10 (1)
13
13
10
12 (2)
13 (2)
(1) Integral Carrier Limited Slip

(2) Removable Carrier Traction Lock
AXLE APPLICATION BY VEHICLE MODEL
Engine
200-1
250-1 V-2V
302-2V
351-2V
351-4V
Transmission
3 Speed Manual
Auto
3 Speed Manual
4 Speed Manual
Auto
3 Speed Manual
4 Speed Manual
Auto
4 Speed Manual
Auto
4 Speed Manual
Auto
Falcon
Sedan
3.23
3.23
3.23
Falcon
Wagon
3.23
3.23
3..23
3.23
3.23
2.92
2.92
2.92
2.92
3.0
2.75
2.92
2.92
2.92
2.92
All 351 C.I.D . vehicles are equipped with Traction Lok axles (L.S.D.).
L.S.D. (Integral carrier) is optional on all 2.92. 3.23. and 3.5 axles.
Falcon
Ute and Van
3.5
3.5
3.23
3.23
3.23
2.92
2.92
2.92
3.0 Ute only
2.75 Ute only
Falcon
G.T.
Fairlane
Sedan
3.23
3.23
2.92
2.92
2.9 2
2.75
3.0
2.75
DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
GROUP
5
PAGE
PART 5-1-
Drive Line
5-2
PART 5-2-
General Clutch Service
5-8
PART 5-3-
Clutch
5-12
PART 5-4-
Specifications
5--21
5-2
PART
51
DRIVE LINE
~tion
1
2
Pace
Description and Opetation ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 5-2
Tl'ouble Diagnosis ... .. .... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 5-2
The drive shaft is the means of

transferring power from the engine
to the differential in the rear axle
and then to the rear wheels. The
drive shaft incorporates two universal joints and a slip yoke. The
universal joints are provided with
a threaded plug which can be removed to lubricate the universal
Section
Pap
...... ...... ...... 1).2
3 Replacement .. .... . ..... ...... ......
Removal ..... ...... ...... ...... .... .. .. .. .. ...... ...... ... ... 5-2
joints when necessary. The splines

in the yoke and on the transmission
output shaft permit the drive shaft
to move forward and rearward as
the axle moves up and down.
All drive shafts are balanced. If
the car is to be undercoated, cover
the drive shaft to prevent application of the undercoating material.
All universal joints have the cap

retaining clips on the inside of the
drive-shaft yokes.
351 C.l.D. vehicles have U-bolts
to attach the rear U .J. to the Pinion
Flange (Fig. 1). All other vehicles
use clamp plates and bolts as
shown in Fig. 2.
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
DRIVE SHAFT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
DRIVE LINE VIBRATION
U.JOINT NOISE
EJ
Undercoating or other foreign

material on shaft.
Universal joint U-bolts loose.
Universal joints worn, or lack of
lubricant.
Drive shaft mis-aligned (drive
line angle).
Pinion flange runout.
Pinion runout.
Universal joint U-bolts loose.
Lack of lubrication.
Drive shaft and universal joints

180 deg. out of phase.
Broken rear spring centre bolt.
Broken rear spring.
Rear springs not matched (sagged
to one side).
Drive shaft damaged (bent) or
out of balance (missing balance
weights).
Worn U-joints.
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. To maintain drive line balance, mark the relation of the slip
yoke and the drive flange on the axle
with the shaft so that they may be
installed in their original positions.
2. Disconnect the rear U-joint
from the drive pinion flange. Pull
the drive shaft toward the rear of
the car until the front U-joint yoke
clears the transmission extension
housing and the seal.
3. Remove the snap rings that

retain the bearings in the yoke and
drive shaft (Fig. 1&2 ).
4. Place the U-joint in a vice or
a press.
5. Select a socket wrench with
an outside diameter slightly smaller
than the U-joint bearings. Select
another socket wrench with an
inside diameter slightly larger than
the bearing outside diameter.
6. Place the socket wrenches at
opposite bearings so that the smaller

socket becomes a bearing driver and
the larger socket becomes a bearing
receiver when the vice jaws come
together (Fig. 3).
7. Close the vice jaws until the
spider contacts the yoke or drive
shaft. Remove the driveshaft from
the vice. Remove the one bearing
with channel lock pliers.
8. Reverse the sockets and press
the opposite bearing outward until .
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE
5-3
FIG. 1-Drive Shaft Disassembled-3 51 CID only

(Typical}
).
~
0
0
A J!
FIG. 2 -Drive Shaft Assembly Disassembled
-other than 351 CID
the spider contacts the yoke or drive
shaft. Remove the bearing with
channel lock pliers.
9. Remove the spider from the
shaft or yoke. Remove the remaining
two bearings in the same manner.
10. If new U-joint bearings are
being installed, check the new bearings for adequate grease.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the spider in the
yo}se. Press a bearing into the bore
and onto the spider. Press another in
the opposite bore of the yoke and
onto the spider.
2. Install the snap ring on each
bearing.
3. Install the spider and bearings in ihe drive shaft in the same
manner as in the yoke.

4. Use the same procedure to
remove and replace the rear U-joint
spi~er and bearings.
Check the joint for freedom of
movement. If a bind has resulted
from misalignment during the foregoing procedures, tap the ears of the
driveshaft sharply to relieve the
bind. Do not install the drive-shaft
unless the universal joints are free
of bind.
5. If the rubber seal installed
on the end of the transmission extension housing is damaged in any
manner, install a new seal.
6. On a manual-shift transmission, lubricate the yoke spline with
conventional transmission lubricant
(Group 19). On an automatic trans-
FIG. 3- Removing Universal

Joint
mission, lubricate the yoke spline
with automatic transmission fluid.
Install the yoke on the transmission
output shaft.
7. Install the U-bolts and nuts/
bolts which attach the U-joint to
the drive pinion flange.
DRIVE LINE VI BRAliONS
Vehicle vibration and roughness

is often the result of driveline variatiQns. Driveline disturbance vibrations are usually high frequency
vibrations and are somewhat worse
on acceleration or rapid deceleration.
The vibration produces a buzzing
feeling, a droning condition or, as
some customers describe, "pressure
noise on the eardrums". It is likely
that the vibration sensation is more
5-4
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
noticeable in the rear seat and over

the driveline, than in any other area
of the car.
Driveline vibrations frequently
originate with excessive runout of
the driveline components, namely,
pinion companion flange, the pinion
itself, drive-shaft, slip yoke and
transmission output shaft. Runout in
these components will produce vibrations due to the fact that the components will be rotating on a centre
other than the centre of balance.
Unbalance of one or more of the
driveline components will produce
vibration.
Driveline angles and the amount
of deflection across the universal
joints will also produce similar
vibrations.
PROPERLY SEA TED
CUP SI1AVES LUG
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES:
Road test for the presence of conditions described previously.

Driveline and running gear vibrations can be separated from engine
and sometimes transmission vibrations by use of the following methods:
1. Install a tachometer and note
the engine speeds at which the vibration occurs. Stop the vehicle and
operate the engine at the speeds
noted above. If the vibration is present, the problem is in the engine or
transmission input component areas.
2. Operate the vehicle in high
gear in the speed range which produces the maximum vibration. If
practicable, shift the transmission
into intermediate gear and note if
there is a change in the vibration. If
the vibration is unchanged, usually
the engine and transmission can be
eliminated as the source of the problem. Repeat the above procedure but
shift the transmission to neutral and
shut off the engine. Again if the
vibration is unchanged, it can be
assumed that the engine and input
,members of the transmission are not
at fault.
3. Raise the car on a hoist or
place the car on jack stands and
operate the vehicle at the same road
speeds that produce the vibration
noted in the road test. While operating at this speed, carefully adjust
engine R.P.M. so that the maximum
amplitude of the vibration can be
noted and felt. Holding the accelerator pedal steady, disengage the
driveline by either moving the shift
lever to neutral or depressing the
clutch and observing whether or not
the vibration diminishes in direct
proportion to speed of the car as
FIG. 4 - Universal Cup to Pinion Flange Fit
FIG. 5 - Checking Flange Bearing Cup Runout

indicated on the speedometer. Quickly engaging the driveline should reproduce the vibration level of the
driveline which, when being operated
on jack stands, is about twice the
level as that actually experienced out
on the road.
CHECKING COMPANION FLANGE
To check
companion flange,
place the vehicle on a hoist of the
type that supports the axle housing

and proceed as follows:
1. With the driveshaft removed,
check the companion flange for
damage to the universal joint bearing
location lugs and proper bearing
seating. Investigation of driveline
vibration complaints has disclosed
that some complaints are the result
of improper assembly of the companion flange and driveshaft. Accu-
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE

mulation of dimensional tolerances in
the companion flange and rear universal joint assembly can result in
excessive interference between the
companion flange locating lugs and
universal joint bearings.
If this condition exists and the
bearings are forced into the companion flange, it is possible to shave
metal off the lugs. The result wi:l be
a severe vibration condition. See
Fig. 4.
It will be necessary to replace the
companion flange whenever inspection discloses evidence of damage to
either of the universal joint locating
lugs.
Tight or binding universal joint
bearings must be corrected or replaced. The universal joint bearings
should be checked for any evidence
of binding during the companion
flange inspection.
2. Install a universal joint assembly in the companion flange. (Modify
the universal joint assembly by removing the driveshaft bearing cups
and cutting off one of the driveshaft
bearing cup trunnions.) See Fig. 5.
3. Install a dial indicator on the
pinion retainer or pinion nose bumper
bracket in a position that will allow
indicating the ends of the universal
joint bearing cups and the remaining
end 'of the cross shaft. Install a cup
shaped adaptor on the dial indicator
stem. See Fig. 5.
4. Turn the companion flange so
that the dial indicator cup is bearing
on the machined end surface of1:he
bearing cup. Refer to Fig. 5 . The
flange should be rotated slightly to
obtain the reading which indicates
that the bearing cup surface is perpendicular to the indicator cup. This
will be the point at which the dial
indicator cup is closest the centre of
companion flange rotation. It is also
the point at which the dial indicator
hand will reverse direction as the
companion flange is turning. Set the
indicator to zero.
5. Carefully retract the dial stem
and rotate the companion flange 180
to position the opposite flange universal joint bearing cup machined
surface under the indicator cup.
Again slightly rotate or rock the flange
to position the bearing perpendicular
to the dial indicator cup. Again, this is
the point at which the indicator hand
will reverse direction as the flange is
rotated. Record the indicator runout
reading.
6. Rotate the companion flange
90 and position the dial indicator
cup on the machined end surface of
5-5
AVERAGE OF READINGS
Ind icator
Flange Bearing
Cup Runout
Drivesh aft Un iversa l

Cross Shaft Runout
1
2
3
3
4
4
Average
4
4
FIG. 6 -Checking Driveshaft Universal Cross Shaft Runout

the cross shaft. See Fig. 6. Make
sure that the end surface of the cross
shaft is perpendicular to the indicator cup. This requires that the
cross shaft be moved fore and aft.on
the flange bearing cups noting the
point at which the indicator hand
reverses direction. Then rotate or
rock the flange assembly until the
cross shaft is perpendicular on the
pinion shaft axis and the indicator
hand reverses direction.
6. Zero the dial indicator and
recheck the zero point slightly rocking the cross shaft fore and aft and
then rocking the .companion flange
side to side.
7. Carefully retract the dial stem
and rotate the flange 180. Rotate the
cross shaft 180 on the flange bearing
cups to position the cross shaft under
the dial indicator cup. Rock the cross
shaft fore and aft and the companion
side to side to establish the point at
which the indicator hand reverses
direction. This will determine the
driveshaft universal cross shaft runout. Record this reading.
8. Repeat Steps '4' through '7'
at least three times and average the
indicator runout readings obtained.
9. In order to determine the total
companion flange runout, it will be
necessary to use the chart in Fig. 7.
Position a straight edge at the amount

of flange bearing cup runout indicated above on the left hand line of
the chart. Position the other end of
the straight edge at the amount of
driveshaft universal cross shaft runout indicated on the right hand line
of the chart. The straight edge will
indicate the amount of combined
runout on the middle line of the
chart. For example: with an indicated
. 003" flange bearing cup runout and
an indicated . 004" driveshaft universal cross shaft runout, the combined companion flange runout,
according to the chart will be . 005"
as indicated on the centre column of
the chart.
The Falcon companion flange rur.out specification is . 008" maximum.
However, in some vehicles it may be
necessary to reduce the runout to
. 005" in order to obtain maximum
vibration reduction.
Note that according to the chart,
runout of . 003" in one dimension
and up to . 004" on the other dimension will result in desirable . 005"
combined runout. However, if the
runout exceeds . 005" on either
measurement, the combined runout
will be . 005" or more.
NOTE: If it is not possible or
practical to rework a universal joint
5-6
flAN GE BEAR ING

CUP RUN().JT
Co.eiNEO RUNOUT
OfiiiVE SHAF T UN IVERSAL

CROSS SI1AF T RUN OUT
.009
.006
006
.008
005
.007
----- - --.006
;,005
.003
---
,.,.,...,\.,
003
. 00~
.003
001
.001
.001
.00 1
.000
FIG. 7
001
.0(11
.000
000
Runout Chart
assembly in the manner described,
the above checks can be made without the rework. This can be accomplished by taking readings on both
ends of the cross shaft. However, it
wili be necessary to take two complete sets of readings in order to
eliminate any possible dimensional
errors in the cross shaft from affecting the companion flange runout
readings. The second set of readings
must be read with the universal joint
assembly rotated 180 on the companion flange.
FIG.8 - Universal U-bolts

reworked
10. If the reading obtained in

Step '9' exceeds specifications, reposition the:: companion flange on the
pinion shaft 180 and repeat Steps
'4' through '9'.
11. If the repeat readings still
exceed specifications, reposition the
flange an additional90 on the pinion
shaft and recheck runout.
12. If the runout is still excessive, replace the companion flange

and recheck runout. If necessary,
rotate flange on pinion shaft until
acceptable runout is obtained.
13. If excessive runout is still
evident after replacement of the
companion flange, it will be necessary
to replace the ring and pinion gear
and repeat the above checks until
runout is within specifications.
Lateral runout of the pinion drive
flange universal joint bearing cup
seats, can be measured in the following manner.
1. Using the modified universal
joint described in the preceding
paragraphs, measure the outside diameter of the two opposite cups and
note any variation; mark the larger
cup. In this case it is preferable to
obtain two cups of the exact same
size. Remove the remaining bearing
cup.
2. Rework two universal joint
U-boltsfclamp plates as shown is
Fig. 8, i.e. grind half the fiat
surface away.
3. Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or jack the rear of the
vehicle and fit body stands .
4. Fit the universal joint into
the flange with the relieved portion
of the U-bolts/clamp plate toward
the centre of the flange (refer Fig. 8) .
5. Mount a dial gauge from the
differential housing so that the stylus
contacts the smaller of the universal
joint bearing cups.
6. Rotate the flange slightly until
the dial gauge indicates the highest
point of the cap. Zero the dial gauge.
7. Lift the dial gauge stem sufficiently to allow clearance as the flange
is rotated through 180 to the
opposite cup.
8. Lower the stylus onto the cup
and rotate the flange until the highest
point of the cup is indicated. Note
the dial gauge reading and subtract
the cup variation as in Item '1'.
9. Repeat Steps '6', '7' and '8' at
least three times and average the
result.
If the average measurement is
greater than . 002 inches, a new
flange should be fitted and again
checked to this procedure.
DRIVESHAFT RUNOUT CHECK:
Check the driveshaft runout 5"

from each end and in the middle of
the shaft. Driveshaft runout should
not exceed . 020" at any of the three
checking points.
Many times a vibration condition
can be reduced to an acceptable level
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE

by rotating a driveshaft that has
some degree of runout, 180 on the
companion flange.
DRIVESHAFT BALANCING
PROCEDURE:
1. Place the car on a twin post
hoist so that the rest of the car is
supported on the rear axle housing
with wheels free to rotate.
2. A car is normally more sensitive to excessive unbalance at the rear
so that checking should begin at the
rearward end of propeller shaft.
Therefore, locate the heavy side of
the driveshaft by holding crayon or
coloured pencil close to rearward end
of shaft while shaft is rotating
(speedometer.indicating 40-50 mph).
See Fig. 9. Carefully bring crayon up
FIG. 9 - Driveshaft Balancing

Procedure
until it just contacts rotating shaft. If

carefully done, only the heavy side
(point of maximum runout) will be
marked by crayon. This normally
gives a good indication of which side
of the shaft is heavy for unbalance
and indicates a starting point for
initial location of clamps.
3. Install two Jubilee Type hose
clamps on the propeller shaft, as
shown in Fig.lO.Position each clamp
with heads 180 from crayon marking. Tighten clan1ps.
4. Run the car through the speed
range to 65-70 mph. If no unbalance
is felt, nothing further need be done
on the hoist. However, if unbalance
still exists, the combined weight of
the two hose clamp heads may be
FIG. 1 0-lnstallationWhiHek Type Hose Clamps
5-7
excessive, so to reduce this excess,
rotate the clamp heads away from
each other approximately 45 (one
each way from the original position).
See Fig. 11. Run car and note if
unbalance has improved.
5. Continue to rotate the clamps
apart in smaller angular increments
until the car feel for unbalance is best.
6. Road test the car again for
final check of balance.
NOTE: Slight vibration felt in the
car on the hoist may not show up i.ti
a road test which is after all the final
determining factor.
CAUTION: Do not run car on
hoist for extended periods due to
danger of overheating of transmission
or engine.
FIG. 11 - Positioning Jubilee

Type Hose Clamps on the
Propeller Shaft
5-8
PART
5-2
GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE
1 Diagnosis and Testing .... .. ...... ...... .. ....

Diagnosis Guide-Clutch ... ... ... ... ... ...
2 Flywheel Housing Alignment .... .. .... ..
Inspection ... ... ...... .. .. .. .... .. ... ... ...... ... ...
Correction .. .... .... .. .. .. .. . ..... .. .. .. .. ... .
II
. ....
. ... .
.... ..
..... .
... ...
.. ....
... .. .
... ...
......
6-8
58
6 9
69
5 9
3 Cleaning and Inspection ... .. . ......

Release Bearing ...... ...... ...... .. ....
Pressure Plate and Cover ...... ......
Clutch Disc ...... ...... .. .... ...... ......
Pilot Bushing ... ... ...... ...... ...... .... ..
.. ....
......
......
......
......
.... ..
......
......
......
......
......
.... ..
......
......
......
6-10
510
511
6-11
5 11
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE -
CLUTCH
POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
EXCESSIVE CLUTCH PEDAL
FREE PLAY AND/OR
INADEQUATE RESERVE
CLUTCH PEDAL HANG-UP OR

EXCESSIVE CLUTCH PEDAL
EFFORT
CLUTCH NOISY WHEN PEDAL

FREE TRAVEL IS TAKEN OUT,
ENGINE RUNNING
CLUTCH NOISY WITH ENGINE

OFF
1. Worn clutch disc.

2. Leaking hydraulic system.
3. Air in hydraulic system.
4. Worn or failed pressure plate.
1. Lack of lubricant on transmission input shaft bearing retainer.
2. Incorrect assembly of release
lever to pivot or release bearing.
3. Internal friction in pressure
plate (302 C.I.D. engine only).
4. Binding of pedal assist spring
bushes (302 C.I.D. engine only}.
1. Release bearing failure.
1. Binding at pedal support

bracket.
2. Lack of lubricant on slave
cylinder push rod end at release
lever.
3. Lack of lubricant on transmission input shaft bearing retainer.
4. Binding at assist spring pivots
(302 C.I.D. engine only).
1. Worn or contaminated clutch

lining.
2. Grease or oil on clutch facings

from:
CLUTCH SLIPS OR CHATTERS
INTERMITTENT SQUAWK
A.
release bearing.
B. engine.
C. release lever.
D. pilot bearing.
E. transmission.
3. Weak or failed pressure plate.
4. Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
1. Flywheel housing misalignment.
CORRECTION
1. Replace worn or defective

parts.
2. Check system for leaks.

3. Bleed system.
4. Replace pressure plate.
1. Clean and lubricate retamer
with a thin coat of MIC75A grease.
Refill grease groove of clutch release
bearing hub with MIC75A grease.
2. Check assembly and rectify
if necessary.
3. Clean and lubricate sparingly
with lubri-plate.
4. Lubricate bushes with MIC75A.
1. Replace bearing.
1. Lubricate with engine oil or

replace support bracket bushing.
2. Lubricate push rod end with
MIC75A.
3. Clean and lubricate retainer
with thin coat of moly base grease
MIC75A. (No polyethylene.)
4. Lubricate spring pivots with
MIC75A.
1. and 2. Replace defective part.
(If grease or oil is causing the clutch
to slip, replace the disc. Remove
the grease or oil from the pressure
plate and flywheel and re-use if it is
not burned or scored.) Repair
source of leakage.
4. Torque bolts to spec.
1. Realign housing to specification.
PART
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE -
CLUTCH (Continued)
CLUTCH NOISY WHEN

DISENGAGED ENGINE
RUNNING
CLUTCH SPIN OR DRAG
CORRECTION
POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
EJ
5-9
5-2-GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE
1.
2.
1. and 2. Replace bearing.
Pilot bearing worn.

Release bearing worn.
1. Failed or worn pressure plate.

2. Grease on linings of clutch
disc.
3. Flywheel housing out of alignment.
4. Damaged clutch disc.
5. Lack of fluid.
6. Air in hydraulic system.
7. Clutch disc fitted in reverse.
8. Uneven centre drive plate release (twin plate clutch only).
9. Binding of the disc on the
input shaft splines.
FLYWHEEL HOUSING ALIGNMENT
Alignment of the flywheel housing bore and rear face with the engine should be checked as a possible
cause of any of the following troubles: excessive transmission gear
wear, transmission jumping out of
gear, especiall~ top
gear, drive
line vibration, excessive pilot bushing wear, noisy release bearing, or
excessive clutch spin time.
from
the
mounting
face
of
the
housin~.
3. Install the dial indicator on

the pilot and adjust the holder so
the button will contact a circumfer~nce just inside of the transmission
mounting holes (Fig-. 1 ).
INSPECTION
4. Push the flywheel forward to

l'emove crankshaft end play. Set
the dial indicator face to read zero.
1. Wrth tht! clutch release bearing removed, install the indicator

pilot tool shown in Fig. 1.
5. Remove the spark plugs to

alleviate compression.
2. Clean the faces of the flywheel housing bolt bosses, and remove all burrs, nicks, and paint
While forcing the flywheel

forward, rotate the crankshaft
through one revolution and note
(i.

2. Replace clutch disc and degrease pressure plate and flywheel.
3. Align to specifications.
4. Replace clutch disc.
5. Rectify cause of fluid loss,
refill and bleed system.
6. Bleed system.
7. Fit clutch disc correctly, if
damaged replace.
8. a. Dismantle clutch assembly
and clean thoroughly with particular
attention to adaptor drive lugs.
b. Check centralising springs for
even height, reset if necessary.
9. Check splines for burrs, rusting and damage. Clean up splines
or replace input shaft.
Lubricate spline .with Molybond
122L Dry Spray Lubricant.
the point of maximum runout.

Mark runout on the face of housing.
7. Position the dial indicator to
check bore alignment (.Fig. 1). The
bore must be clean and free of
burrs, nicks and paint.
8. Pull the crankshaft through

one revolution. Note the indicator
reading and mark the maximum
point of runout on the face of the
housing.
9. Remove the dial indicator
from the crankshaft and the houaing.
CORRECTION
ENGINE IN CAR
Since any change in face alignment will change bore alignment,
it may be possible to correct bore
alignment by changing face alignment. Face alignment can be
changed by shimming between the
flywheel housing and ~ngine. Fig.
2 shows the type of shim which can
be fabricated.
MAXIMUM FACE RUN OUT+ 0.009 INCH
FIG. 1 -
MAXIMUM NEGATIVE BORE RUN OUT 0.0151NCH Cl017C
Flywheel Housing Alignment Check
Not more than 0.010 inch thickness shims may be used between
the flywheel housing and engine.
lf a 0.010-inch shim will not bring
5-10
face and bore alignment within

limits, replace the flywheel housing.
11----IY"----tl
~w
C1136-A
FIG. 2 -
Fabricated
Flywheel Housing Shim

If both the bore and face alignment are out of limits, shim between the flwheel housing and engine to bring face alignment within limits. Check the bore alignment.
If the bore alignment is out of
li;nits and the face alignment is
within limits, shim the flywheel
housing to the limit of face misalignment and check the bore alignment. If it is not within limits, replace the housing.
ENGINE OUT OF CAR

The same procedure to correct
alignment may be used with the en-
EJ
gine out of the car or in the car,

up to the point of replacing tre flywheel housing. If the bore alignment cannot be brought within limita by shimming, follow this procedure
moved straight up or .down without

disturbing the lateral alignment.
When alignment is within limits,
torque the housing bolts and re
check bore alignment.
1. Remove the flywheel housing

from the engine and remove the
dowel pins. Install the flywheel
housing and tighten the attaching
bolts.
5. If the flywheel housing cannot be moved enough to bring the

alignment within limits, mark the
holes restricting movement, and
then remove the housing and drill
the marked bolt holes 1/32 inch
larger.
2. Install the dial indicator (Fig.

1 ). Check the face alignment, and
shim as required to bring- face
alignment within limits.
3. Position the indicator to
c-heck the bore alignment. If the
bore alignment is not within limits,
reduce the tension on the flywheel
housing attaching bolts so that the
housing can be moved by striking
it with a lead hammer or a block
of wood and a steel hammer.
4. The lateral alignment should
be brought within limits so that an
indicator reading is within limits
Letween the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock
positions on the bore circle. When
the lateral alignment is within limits, the housing usually can be
6. When the flywheel housingbore alignment is within limits and

the attaching bolts are at normal
torque, hand ream the dowel pin
holes 1/32 inch larger. Use a
l!traight reamer and ream from the
flywheel housing side. Oversize
dowel pins can be made from drill
rod stock.
and then i-nstall the oversize dowel
pins in the cylinder block. Complete
the assembly in the usual way.
8.
with
that
ified
Recheck the flywheel housing

a dial gauge to make sure
the housing is within the speclimits.
RELEASE BEARING
Wipe all oil and dirt off the release bearing. The bearing is prelubricated and should not be
deaned with solvent.
Inspect the bearing retainer for damaged
or loose spring clips and rivets.
Inspect the release bearing hub bore
for burrs which may cause the assembly
to drag on the transmission bearing
retainer. Any such burrs should be cleaned
up with fine crocus cloth. If burrs are
found inspect the transmission input
shaft bearing retainer for evidence of
scoring. Any scoring should be polished
out with crocus cloth. Coat bearing
retainer with a thin film of moly-base
grease.
Prior to release bearing installation,
apply a light film of MIC-75 A grease on
both sides of the release lever fork where
it contacts the release bearing hub and
retaining springs. Release lever pivots
and push rod seat.
Care must be exercised when applying
lubricants to the release bearing, release
bearing hub and the release lever fork to
FIG. 3-Release Bearing

and Hub Assembly-351
CID Twin Disc Clutch

and Hub Assembly6 Cyl.
PART 5-2-GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE

noisy, replace the bearing and hub
assembly.
Misalignment between the engine and
transmission can cause release bearing
failure. Other symptoms of misalignment
are: transmission jumping out of gear,
especially top gear, drive line vibration,
excessive clutch disc spin time resulting
in gear clash, and excessive transmission
gear wear.
The pressure plate should be lubricated with lubriplate between the

driving lugs and the edges of the
pressure plate. Depress the pressure plate finge1s fully, apply the
lubricant, and then move the fing-ers up and down until the lubricant is worked in . Do not apply exct>ssive lubricant.
PRESSURE PLATE AND COVER
Inspect the clutch disc facings for oil

or grease. Eliminate the source of any
oil or grease before replacing the disc.
An excessive amount of grease in the
release bearing hub will find its way to the
disc facings. Too much lubricant in the
transmission or a plugged transmission
vent will force the transmission lubricant
out the input shaft and onto the disc
facings.
Inspect the surface of the pressure plate for burn marks, scores,
OJ' ridges. Generally, pressure plate
re-surfacing is not recommended.
However, minor burn marks, scores,
or ridges may be removed. During
the resurfacing process, the flatness of the pressute plate must be
maintained. If the pressure plate
is badly heat-checked or deeply
scored, replace the pressure plate
and cover assembly.
Clean the
pressure plate and flywheel surfaces with a crocus cloth to be sure the
surfaces are free from any oil film. Do
not use cleaners with petroleum base, and
do not immerse the pressure plate in the
solvent.

and Hub Assembly302V8
avoid excessive grease from contaminating
the clutch di sc.
Hold the bearing inner race and rotate
the outer race while applying pressure to
it. If the bearing rotation is rough or
5-11
CLUTCH DISC
Inspect the clutch discs for worn or

loose facings. Check the discs for distortion and for lose rivets at the hub.
Check for broken springs. Springs loose
enough to rattle will not cause noise when
the car is operating. Replace the discs
assemblies if any of these defects are
present. Be especially c-.areful when installing a new disc to avoid dropping it or
contaminating it with oil or grease.
302 C.I.D. ONLY

Place the plate on the floor, being careful not to score or :scratch
the surface. Force each individual
finger down, then release it quickly.
If the finger does not return quickly, a binding condition is indicated,
and the pressure plate should be
replaced.
PILOT BEARING
Check the fit of the clutch pilot bearing
in the housing of the crankshaft.
The bearing is pressed into the crankshaft and should not be loose or cocked
in the bore.
If the bearing is worn or damaged,
replace it with a new service bearing.
5-12
PART
53
CLUTCH
Section
Pace
1 Description and Operation .
...... ...... .. .. .. ...... 6-12
2 In car Adjustments and Repairs ...... .... .. ... ... 5-14
Reservoir Topping-Up .... ..
Bleeding the Clutch
5-14
5-14
Section
4 Hydraulic System Repairs
Clutch Operating Cylinder Disassembly
Assembly
DESCRIPTION
There are three types of clutches

used on this model.
A. A 9t or 9! inch single dry plate
diaphragm clutch is used on six
cylinder engines. Fig. 6.
B. A 10 inch single dry plate coil
spring clutch is used with the
302 C.I.D. V-8 engine. Fig. 7.
C. A 9t inch twin disc dry plate
diaphragm clutch is used with
the351 C.I.D. V-8engine.Fig. 8.
All clutches are hydraulically
operated. The discs incorporate a
spring dampened hub, and the
linings are cushion mounted to
ensure a smooth take up of the
drive.
The clutch disc hub is free to slide
along the splines of the main drive
gear shaft, the forward end of which
forms a spigot to fit into the clutch
pilot bearing in the centre of the
crankshaft.
OPERATION
The clutch release mechanism, is

hydraulically actuated by a pendant
pedal, connected by a short push rod
to the clutch master cylinder.
The clutch master cylinder is
mounted on the front face of the
engine rear bulkhead on the driver's
side of the vehicle.
The front spigot end of the piston
accommodates the valve stem and
carries the valve spring retainer. The
return spring, under compression, is
fitted between the spring retainer
and the valve spacer at the forward
end of the cylinder.
A reservoir port, drilled at the
FIG. 6-Ciutch Disc

and Flywheel6 Cyl.
Page
5-14
5-19
5-19
5-19
PART 5-3-CLUTCH
front of the cylinder, allows fluid
from the reservoir to enter the
cylinder.
A tube connects the master
cylinder port to the slave cylinder.
With the clutch pedal m the fully
released position, fluid is free to flow
from the reservoir into the cylinder.
When the pedal is depressed, the
piston moves forward advancing the
valve spacer and seal. The spacer
contacts the end of the cylinder. The
wave shim between the flange on the
valve stem and the valve spacer
pushes the valve seal into contact
with the end of the cylinder, so
sealing off the reservoir port, preventing the fluid from being pumped
back into the reservoir. The fluid is,
therefore, pumped through the outlet
port to the slave cylinder on the
clutch housing, the increase in
hydraulic pressure assisting the
action of the valve seal.
Pressure in the clutch slave
cylinder operates a non-adjustable
push rod which, in turn, acts on the
release lever end. The release lever
is retained on a fulcrum in the
clutch housing by mear'i of a spring.
When the release lever is actuated,
the release bearing is moved toward the clutch, moving the fingers
of the diaphragm spring.
The release bearing is retained
to the clutch release lever fork by
means of two clips.
This method of clutch operation
ensures smooth clutch engagement
as relative movement between the
engine and the clutch pedal is not
transferred to the operating
mechanism.
The diaphragm spring is pivoted
on a fulcrum ring located on pins
which are riveted to the clutch
housing. As the diaphragm spring
is compressed by the release bearing, the diaphragm's outer edge
deflects thereby causing the clutch
to disengage.
When the pedal is released, the
master cylinder return spring pushes
back the piston, reducing the pressure in the cylinder. The diaphragm
spring or pressure plate fingers
acting on the operating cylinder
piston, via the release arm and push
rod, pushes the fluid back into the
master cylinder. As the piston
reaches the end of its rearward
travel, the valve spacer and seal will
be pulled away from the reservoir
port by the valve stem. The valve
uncovers the reservoir port so that
fluid may be replenished in the
cylinder, as necessary.
5-13
FIG. 7 -Coil Spring Clutch

302 CID V8 only
1 11
. ..
_._._:
~~
.
,. .,_ .
. ...
.
'
---
-'
FIG. 8-351 Twin Disc

Clutch-Typical
.. ..
-Je-.
',,
. .
5-14
EJ

IN CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
The maintenance required for the

clutch system. is to top-up the master
cylinder, and, if necessary, to bleed
the system. Details of these operations are given in the following
paragraphs.
No manual adjustment is possible
or provided for on any of the clutch
systems.
RESERVOIR TOPPING-UP
The fluid level in the reservoir

tank, which is integral with the
clutch master cylinder body, should
be regularly checked. Top up to
the correct level, marked on the
master cylinder body with approved
fluid. The cap and the area surrounding it should be wiped with a
clean rag before removing the cap,
to prevent dirt entering when it is
removed.
Ensure that the air vent in the
cap is clear before replacing the cap.
BLEEDING THE CLUTCH
If it is suspected that an incorrect

fluid has been used in the hydraulic
system, drain completely and flush
out with methylated spirit or commercial alcohol.
Renew the piston seals in the
master cylinder and slave cylinder
EJ
as outlined in Page 5-19 and refill

the system with fluid, Rl-39 A.
Engine, transmission or other
mineral oils must not be used in the
system or allowed to come into
contact with seals, pistons, etc.,
being stored. Foreign matter must
be avoided since it may score the
pistons or damage the seals and
render the clutch wholly or partially
inoperative.
When replacing clutch system
parts, examine the seals and any seal
which is imperfect should be replaced. Pistons and housings should
be checked for scores which may
provide a track for fluid leaks under
pressure and any damaged parts
must be renewed.
Prior to assembly, immerse hydraulic components in clean fluid,
Rl-39 A to facilitate fitting and
provide initial lubrication for working surfaces.
1. Clean the area surrounding
the bleed valve on the cylinder.
2. Fit a suitable tube on the
bleed valve and place the end of the
tube in a bottle containing fluid,
Rl-39 A. Keep the end of the tube
beneath the surface of the fluid
throughout the bleeding operation.
3. Open the bleed valve by turn-
ing it anti-clockwise and slowly

depress and release the clutch pedal
several times. For each stroke some
fluid or air should be pumped out of
the tube. If neither fluid nor air is
pumped out, the bleed valve is not
properly opened or there is a blockage in the pipe line.
NOTE: Where air in the system is
suspected remember that when bleeding the system the initial application
of the clutch pedal will cause the air
trapped in the bleed tube to be forced
into the fluid container.
4. Continue depressing and releasing the clutch pedal slowly until
no more air bubbles emerge from the
rube, ensuring that the fluid level in
the reservoir is maintained during
the bleeding operation.
Do not replenish the reservoir
with the fluid drained from the
system as it may be aerated or contaminated. If the fluid pumped out
of the tube is dirty, drain the system
completely and refill with fresh
Rl-39 A.
5. Close the bleed valve tightly
with the pedal fully released, when
fluid alone comes out of the bleed
tube with each stroke of the clutch
pedal.
6. Refill the reservoir to the
correct level and refit the cap.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER

REMOVAL
Disconnect the clutch master

cylinder push rod from the pedal.
2. Detach the fluid line by unscrewing the union nut, using a
blanking plug to prevent dirt entering the line.
3. Withdraw the master cylinder
after removing the two nuts and
spring washers securing the master
cylinder to the bulkhead.
1.
INSTALLATION
l. Refit the master cylinder to

the engine bulkhead, replace the
two securing spring washers and
nuts and tighten to the specified
torque.
2. Reconnect the fluid pipe,
tighten the union nut securely, but
do not overtighten.
3. Reconnect the clutch master
cylinder push rod to the pedal by
passing the push rod eye over the
pedal pin, refitting the shouldered
nylon bush and keeper pin.
4. Top up the master cylinder
reservoir with clean approved fluid,
Rl-39 A, and then bleed the system.
Check the action~ of the clutch on
road test.
THE CLUTCH SLAVE
CYLINDER REMOVAL
The clutch slave cylinder is

mounted on the clutch housing on
the left-hand side, and is retained
by two bolts.
1. Detach the fluid line by unscrewing the union nut, using a
blanking plug to prevent dirt entering the line.

2. Remove the slave cylinder
after removing the two retaining
bolts.
INSTALLATION
1. Fit the rubber boot to the

operating cylinder and insert the
push rod.
2. Position the slave cylinder

on to the flywheel housing and fit
the retaining lock washers and
3. Reconnect the fluid tube.

Tighten the union nut, but do not
overtighten. Bleed the system.
5-15
PART 5-3-CLUTCH
CLUTCH
RELE'ASE LEVER
INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
FIG. 9 - Non-Adjustable
Operating Cylinder
All Vehicles
The clutch release lever is held

in position on the knife edge pivot
by a spring wire clip Fig. 10.
as outlined in clutch pressure plate
and /or disc removal.
2. Using a large screwdriver
through the transmission input
shaft hole in the flywheel housing,
prise the release lever retaining
spring from the tang in the knife
edge pivot (Fig. 10).
1. Lubricate the knife edge

pivot recess in the release lever with
grease MJC 75 A.
2. Locate the retaining spring
on the release lever (Fig. 10).
3. Assemble the release lever
in the flywheel housing with the
knife edge pivot in its recess in the
lever.
Using a large screwdriver
through the transmission input
shaft hole in the flywheel housing,
lift the release lever retaining spring
on to the pivot tang. (Fig. 10).
3. Remove the release lever

toward the centre of the flywheel
housing.
4. Install the flywheel housing

as outlined in clutch pressure plate
and/or disc installation.
r---
.-'
--
FIG. 1 0-Ciutch Release

Lever and Pivot
FIG. 11-lnstallation Sketch Clutch

Operating Mechanism
~- -.
~~
_:~
~-------~--
I -
5-16
FIG. 12-lnstallation 6 Cyl. Clutch
FIG. 13-lnstallation 302 CID V8 Clutch
FIG. 14-lnstallation 351 Twin Disc Clutch
PART 5-3-CLUTCH
CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
AND OR DISC
REMOVAL
cover, then remove the pressure

plate and clutch disc.

from the rear U-joint flange. Then
slide the drive shaft off the transmission output shaft. Insert appropriate Extension Housing Seal Installation tool over the output shaft
and into the extension housing oil
seal.
3. Disconnect the speedometer
cable from the extension housing.
4. Disconnect the gear shift rods
from the transmission levers.
5. Support the engine with a
transmission jack and remove the
two nuts securing the transmission
rear support to the crossmember.
6. Raise the rear of the engine
with the transmission jack. Remove
the two nuts, washers, and bolts
securing the crossmember to the
frame supports. Remove the crossmember.
the transmission to the flywheel
housing.
8. Move the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the
flywheel housing, then remove the
transmission.
9. Remove the clutch slave
cylinder.
10. Remove the starter cable.
Remove the starter motor from the
flywheel housing.
11. Remove the bolts that secure
the engine rear plate or flywheel
housing lower cover plate to the
front lower part of the flywheel
housing.
the flywheel housing to the cylinder
block and remove the housing and
the release lever as a unit.
13. Loosen the pressure plate
cover attaching bolts evenly to release
the spring tension. If the same
pressure plate and cover is to
be installed after the clutch is
overhauled mark the cover and
flywheel so that the pressure
plate can be installed in the same
position, to maintain a balanced
assembly. When fitting a new pressure plate and/ or flywheel the
balance marks are to be placed
opposite each other. The heavy side
of the pressure plate is marked with
a daub of paint while the heavy side
of the flywheel is marked with a
drill point.
14. Remove the attaching bolts
while holding the pressure plate
1. Hold the clutch disc, and pressure plate and cover assembly in
position on the flywheel. Start the
cover attaching bolts to hold the
pieces in place but do not tighten
them. Avoid dropping the parts
or contaminating them with oil
or grease.
Grade 5 bolts Part No. 382087-S
must be used.
2. Align the clutch disc with a
clutch arbor or an old transmission
input shaft and torque the pressure
plate cover attaching bolts evenly
to specification. Then remove the
tool.
3. Make certain that the release
bearing and hub is properly installed
on the release lever. Completely fill
the grease groove in the hub bore
and lightly smear the remainder of
the bore with a film of moly type
grease. Do not lubricate the clutch
disc hub.
4. Make certain that the flywheel housing and the cylinder block
mounting surfaces are clean. Position
the flywheel housing on the cylinder
block and install the attaching bolts.
Torque the bolts to specifications.
5. Lubricate the push rod
release lever end with grease MIC
75 A and install slave cylinder as
shown in Figs. 10-11-12.
6. Secure the engine rear plate
or flywheel housing lower cover plate
to the front of the flywheel housing
with the attaching bolts.
7. Install the starting motor and
connect the cable.
8. The mounting surfaces of the
transmission and the flywheel housing must be free of dirt, paint, and
burrs. Install two guide pins in the
flywheel housing lower mounting
bolt holes. Move the transmission
forward on the guide pins until it
is positioned against the flywheel
housing.
9. Install the two upper mounting bolts. Then, remove the guide
pins and install the two lower
mounting bolts. Torque all bolts to
specifications.
10. Raise the rear of the engine
high enough to provide clearance for
installing the crossmember. Install
the two crossmember-to-frame support attaching bolts, washers, and
nuts. Do not tighten at this time.
11. Align the bolts in the transmission rear support with the bolt
INSTALLATION
5-17
holes in the crossmember, then lower
the engine and remove the jack.
Install the two transmission rear
support-to-crossmember washers and
nuts and torque to specifications.
Tighten the crossmember-to-frame
support nuts.
12. Connect the gear shift rods to
the transmission levers. Adjust the
shift linkage.
13. Remove the tool from the
transmission output shaft, and install
the drive shaft.
14. Connect the speedometer cable
to the extension housing.
351 C.I.D. TWIN PLATE CLUTCH
REMOVAL
Refer to the preceding paragraphs

1-13 of clutch pressure plate and/or
disc remol'al.
1. If the same centre drive plate,
pressure plate and cover is to be
installed after the clutch is overhauled, mark them so that they can
be installed in the same position, to
maintain a balanced assembly.
When removing the twin plate
clutch from the flywheel, it is essential to firstly relieve the pressure
plate clamping load by evenly loosening the three mounting bolts. Replace
the bolts one at a time with guide
pins, which can be simply made by
cutting the head from a 3" x 5/ 16"
UNC bolt and cutting a screwdriver
slot in the plain end. The clutch
assembly may now be handled with
ease.
2. Remove the pressure plate.
3. Remove the rear clutch disc.
4. Remove the centre drive plate.
NOTE: When placing the centre
drive plate on a bench or flat surface
it should be supported to avoid
damagmg the centralising springs.
5. Remove the front clutch disc
and remove the cylindrical adaptors
from the flywheel.
The guide pins may be left in
place to assist in re-assembly.
FIG. 1 5-Fiywheel and

Cylindrical Adaptors-351
5-18
351 C.I.D. TWIN PLATE ClUTCH

INSTALLATION
Warning: It is mandatory when

replacing a clutch disc on the clutch
installation of the 351 CID engine,
that both clutch discs be replaced at
the one time. If this procedure is
not adhered to, clutch spin may be
experienced.
Special size Grade 8 mounting
bolts Part No. V388021-S2 must
be used.
1. Spray a light coating of
Molybond 122L over the cylindrical
adaptors prior to their installation
over the guide pins and assemble
the adaptors over the guide pins
(Fig. 15).
2. Assemble the front clutch
disc. This disc is identified by Part
No. ARC9DA-7550-B and is also
marked flywheel side around the
hub (Fig. 16).
3. Assemble the centre drive
plate. Ensure the drive plate is
fitted as shown in (Fig. 17), i.e.
the centralizing springs, clockwise
of the cylindrical adaptors. Check
that the drive plate slides freely on
the adaptors.
4. Assemble the rear clutch
disc. This disc is identified by Part
No. ARC9DA-7550-C and is also
marked Pressure Plate side around
the hub (Fig. 18).
5. Assemble the pressure plate
to the cylindrical adaptors. Replace
the guide pins with the grade 8
mounting bolts one at a time.
Tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts finger tight (Fig. 19).
Ensure the centre drive plate
centralizing springs are located as
shown in Fig. 20.
6. Insert clutch disc aligning
tool No. 7550-A into the discs and
pilot bearing.
7. Torque the pressure. plate
mounting bolts evenly to 19-21
lbs.-ft.
8. Remove the disc aligning tool
and continue reassembling the
vehicle as outlined Page 5-17 of
clutch pressure plate and I or disc
installations.
The 6 cylinder and 351 C.I.D.
twin disc clutch pressure plate and
cover assemblies althougl]. very
similar must not be interchanged.
The twin disc pressure plate can be
identified by the three dowel holes
in the pressure plate friction surface
(Fig. 20).
FIG. 16- Front Plate Fitted

to Flywheel
FIG. 20- Clutch Assembly

Assembled
GRADE 8
V388021-52
382087-5
MOUNTING BOLTS
FIG. 1 7- Centre Drive Plate
FIG. 21
FIG. 18- Rear Plate FiHed

to Centre Drive Plate
FIG. 22-351 Pressure

Plate Showing Dowel
NOTE: It is essential that the
correct grade of bolt (pressure
plate to flywheel) be used.
FIG. 19- Pressure Plate

FiHed to Adaptor Drive Plates
6 and 8 cylinder, single plate,

grade 5, three lines on bolt head.
8 cylinder, twin plate, grade 8,
six lines on bolt head.
PART
IJ
5-19
5-3-CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM REPAIRS
MASTER CYLINDER
DISASSEMBLY
1. Empty the contents of the
fluid reservoir into a clean container.
2. Remove the rubber boot. Then
withdraw the circlip and remove the
push rod.
3. Withdraw the piston and valve
assembly from the cylinder.
4. Remove the piston from the
valve assembly. The spring retainer
is held in position on the spigot end
of the piston by a tab which engages
under a shoulder on the front of the
piston. Prise up the tab (Fig. 24)
and remove the spring retainer,
spring and valve assembly from the
piston.
5. To dismantle the valve assembly, compress the spring and
move the valve stem to one side in
the retainer, so releasing the end of
the valve stem from the key slot
hole in the retainer.
Slide the valve spacer and shim
off the valve stem.
6. Remove the rubber valve seal
and the piston seal, if necessary.
7. Wash the parts in methylated
spirit, brake fluid or commercial
alcohol. Do not use mineral fluids
such as engine oil or paraffin for
washing the parts. Carefully inspect
the piston rubber seal and renew if
there is any sign of damage to the
sealing lip. It is not advisable to
turn the seal inside out when examining as distortion will be caused.
Examine the piston and cylinder bore
for scores or damage.

ASSEMBLY
1. Replace the piston seal with
the lip away from thr larger diameter
of the piston.
2. Fit the valve seal to the valve
stem with the lip outwards and away
from the spring. Slide the shim, the
valve spacer, with the legs over the
valve seal, and the return spring, in
this order, over the valve stem (see
Fig. 23 ). Ensure that the convex
face of the shim abuts the valve
stem flange.
3. Fit the spring retainer in the
rear end of the return spring, compress the spring and locate the valve
stem in the key hole slot in the end
of the spring retainer.
4. Insert the front of the piston
in the spring retainer, and secure it
. by locating the spring retainer tab
under the front shoulder of the
piston.
5. Dip the piston and seal in
hydraulic fluid Rl-39 A. Insert the
piston assembly in the cylinder,
valve seal end first. Ensure that
the piston seal is not damaged as it
enters the master cylinder.
6. Install the push rod in the
master cylinder. Locate the washer
and fit the retaining circlip.
7. Refit the rubber boot to the
clutch master cylinder.
8. Fit the master cylinder and

bleed the system as outlined in
Pages 5-14.
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
DISASSEMBLY
1. Withdraw the push rod and
rubber boot from the operating
cylinder.
2. Remove the piston and seal,
lightly tap the cylinder on a block
of wood. Withdraw the piston and
rubber seal from the cylinder body.
3. Unscrew the bleed valve on
the side of the cylinder body. Pull
the rubber piston seal off the spigot
at the front of the piston.
4. Wash all parts in hydraulic
fluid Rl-39 A, methylated spirit or
commercial alcohol and examine
the rubber piston seal carefully.
Renew the seal if there is any sign
of damage to the sealing lip. Never
use mineral fluids such as engine oil
or kerosene for washing hydraulic
system parts.
ASSEMBLY
1. Locate the piston seal on the

spigot at the front end of the piston
with the recess in the seal away from
the piston (see Fig. 25).
2. To fit the piston dip the piston
and seal in hydraulic fluid, and carefully insert, spigot end first, into the
cylinder.
3. Replace the bleed valve but
do not tighten.
4. Fit the operating cylinder and
bleed the system.
0
~oVALVE
SPACER
FIG. 24 -Removing the

FIG. 23 -Exploded View Clutch Master Cylinder
Piston Valve
5-20
I
FIG. 25- Clutch Operating Cylinder
5-21
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
5-4
CLUTCH DISC IDENTIFICATION

Clutch Discs can be identified by Part Numbers stamped on the hub as follows:
Engine & Transmission

6
6
6
6
6
8
8
Cyl 200
Cyl 250
Cyl 250
Cyl 250
Cyl 250
Cyl302
Cyl 351
CID-3SPD
CID-IV
-3SPD
CID-IV
-4SPD
CID-2V
-3SPD
CID-2V
-4SPD
CID-3 & 4 -SPD
CID-2 & 4V-4SPD
Number of
Damping Springs
Part No.
Diameter
ARDIDA-7550-B
ARDIDA-7550-A
ARDIDA-7550-C
72DA-7550-BA
72DA-7550-CA
C60Z-7550-G
ARC9DA-7550-B FRONT
ARC9DA-7550-C REAR
6
6
6
6
6
12
9f'
9f'
9f'
9t''
9t''
10
9t''
Part No.
Number of Springs
Diameter
PRESSURE PLATE IDENTIFICATION

Engine
6
6
6
8
8
Cyl
Cyl
Cyl
Cyl
Cyl
200
250
250
302
351
Cl DCID-IV
CID-2V
CIDCID-
ARC8DA-7563-A
ARD1 DA-7563-A
72DA-7563-BA
C20Z-7563-F
ARC9DA-7563-C
Diaphragm
Diaphragm
Diaphragm
9
Diaphragm
9t''
9t''
9f'
10"
9t''
NOTE-The 351 Cl D Pressura Plate Assembly can be identified by the three locating dowel holes in the Pressure Plate Friction Surface
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
35-45 lbs. ft.
12-20 lbs. ft.
7-10 lbs. ft.
12-20 lbs. ft.
13-18 lbs. ft.
17-22 lbs. ft.
19-21 lbs. ft.
Flywheel housing to cylinder block bolts ..

Clutch pressure plate retaining bolts
7260 Series Universal pinion yoke nuts
1310 Series Universal pinion yoke U-bolt nuts
Clutch master cylinder mounting nuts
Clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts
Twin plate clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts . .
LUBRICATION
Clutch release bearing hub to bearing retainer
Pressure plate cylindrical adaptors . .
Pressure plate fingers
Release lever tips . .
Release lever fulcrum both sides
Input Shaft spline . .
DO NOT USE EXCESS LUBRICANTS ON ABOVE ITEMS
Clutch master cylinder fluid
MIC 75A
Molybond 122L
Lubriplate
MIC 75A
MIC 75A
Molybond 122L
ESW-FM-6C2
DRIVE LINE IDENTIFICATION
EngineVehicle Application
200
250
302
200
302
351
351
351
351
C.I.D. Passenger
C.I.D . Passenger
C.I.D. Passenger
& 250 C.I.D . Commercial
C.I.D. Commercial
C.I.D. Auto. 4V
C.I.D. Manual 4V
C.I.D . Auto . 2V
C.I.D. Manual 2V
Slip Yoke
Rear Axle
STD 2 pinion
STD 2 pinion
2 Pinion
H.D. 4 pinion
H.D. 4 pinion
Traction Lok 4
Traction Lok 4
Traction Lok 4
Traction Lok 4
pinion
pinion
pinion
pinion
28
28
28
28
28
31
28
28
28
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Spline
Universal
Joint Series
7260
7260
7260
7260
7260
1310
1310
1310
1310

Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
GROUP
6
PAGE
PART 6-1
General Transmission Service
6-2
PART 6-2
3-Speed Partially Synchronised

Manual Shift Transmission
Series BW 199333.
6-9
PART 6-3
3-Speed Fully Synchronised

Series BW 199332 and 199331.
6-18
PART 6-4
4-Speed Fully Synchronised

RUG. A.R. and RUG. B. F.
6-24
PART 6-5
Specifications
6-36
For shift tube replacement in column shift vehicles refer Group
3 front suspension and steering. This group for linkage adjustment.
6-2
PART
6-1
GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
Pare
Section
6-2
1 Diagnosis and Testing ...... .. .... ...... .. .. ..
2 Common Adjustments and Repairs .... .. ...... .. .. .. 6-7
Gear Shift Linkage Adjustment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ... . 6-7
II
Section
Rear Seal Replacement ...... ...... .. ....
Rear Bushing and Seal Replacement
3 Cleaning and Inspection .... .. .. .. .. ......
Pare
6-7
6-7
6-8

outside of the transrruss10n, such
as, clutch, clutch linkage, steering
columns and shift linkage. Before
and during the road test, make sure
that the clutch is functioning properly, the shift linkage is properly
adjusted, the steering column is
properly aligned and, that the transmission is filled to the proper level
with lubricant.
The following problems can be

experienced with a manual shift
transmission: excessive amount of
noise, hard shifting efforts, transmission jumps out of gear, gears
clash when transmission is shifted
from one gear ratio to another, and
lubricant leakage.
The car should be road tested, if
possible, to determine or confirm
complaint. Under normal operating
conditions, a large percentage of
transmission complaints are due to
maladjusted or faulty components
The following diagnosis procedure is compiled as a guide in correcting problems related to manual
transmissions. Trouble symptoms,
possible causes and corrective

measures are listed in the order
they should be checked to eliminate
all possibility of maladjustment or
faulty components outside of the
transmission prior to any transmission removal and disassembly. If
the transmission was removed, repaired and reinstalled, make certain
the clutch and all gear shift linkage
is adjusted to specifications. Road
test the vehicle to be sure that
the problem has been completely
corrected.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE- TRANSMISSIONS

To eliminate all possibility of
maladjustments or faulty compon-
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
GEAR CLASH
ents in the clutch and/or clutch

linkage, refer to Clutch Diagnosis
POSSIBLE CAUSES
and Testing, Group 5 (Driveshaft

and Clutch), of the shop manual.
CORRECTION
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Improper crossover.
2. Loose nuts at steering column
levers and shift rods. If the nuts are
loose, check for bell-mouthing of
slots.
3. Bent transmission shift rods or
linkage interference.
4. Lack of lubrication of shift
linkage, trunnions .
1-2. Adjust levers and shift rods

to proper crossover, torque nuts to
specification. Replace bell-mouthed
rods or levers.
3. Replace bent rods.
4. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
PART 6-1-MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION

TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
GEAR CWH-Continuecl
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CLUTCH
1. Excessive engine idle speed.
2. Inadequate dutch pedal reserve
resulting in excessive spin time. Inadequate clutch disengagement.
3. Disc binding on transmission
input shaft.
4. Excessive disc runout.
5. Flywheel housing misalignment.
6. Oil or grease on clutch facings
from:
A. Release bearing
B. Engine
C. Release lever
D. Pilot bearing
E. Transmission.
7. Damaged or contaminated
clutch lining.
TRANSMISSION
1~ Forward Gear Clash
A. Weak or broken insert springs
in the synchronizer assembly.
B. Worn blocking rings and/ or
cone surfaces.
C. Broken blocking rings.
D. Excessive output shaft end
play.
E. Binding input shaft pilot bearing (non-synchronized low gear
transmission only).
F. Worn shifter forks or sleeves.
2. Reverse Gear Clash (allow
approximately three-four seconds
after the clutch pedal has been depressed before shifting into reverse
gear).
A. If gear clash continues after
allowing proper time for the
clutch plate to stop, check clutch
to make sure that it is within
specification.
B. Excessive engine idle speed.
C. Binding input shaft pilot bearing.
HARD
SHIFTIN~
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Improper crossover.
slots.
linkage, trunnions.
STEERING COLUMNS
1. Improper column alignment,
looseness, binding and worn surfaces.
2. Worn shift key or broken weld
securing shift key to top or bottom
of shift tube.
6-3
CORRECTION
1. Adjust engine idle rpm.

2. Check for damaged input.
shaft pilot bearing or excessive
clutch disc runout-replace defective
parts.
3. Check for burrs on splines,
replace if necessary.
4-6-7. Replace clutch disc.
5. Align to specification.
1. A-B-C-D-F. Replace worn or

defective parts.
2. A. See possible causes under

Clutch for gear clash trouble symptoms.
B. Adjust engine idle rpm.

C. Replace defective parts.
1-2. Adjust levers and rods to

proper crossover, torque nuts to
levers.
3. Replace bent rods or levers.

1. Align column properly, replace

defective column parts.
2-3-4. Replace defective parts.
6-4
GROUP
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
HARD SHIFTING
(Continued)
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE

POSSIBLE CAUSES
3. Loose shift lever pin in die cast
selector lever hub.
4. Keyway 10 die cast selector
lever hub pounded out.
5. Loose screws securing die casting to bottom of tube. Excessive
radial movement m the column
linkage. (If the vehicle has high
mileage or is subjected to hard use,
even though the crossover has been
properly set, the column may have
deteriorated to a point where proper
crossover engagement will not occur
due to excessive radial movement in
the column linkage (lost motion).
6. Lack of lubrication in column.
CLUTCH LINKAGE
1. Loss of clutch pedal reserve.
TRANSMISSION
1. Excessive shift effort.
A. Shift levers or forks worn or
bent.
B. Synchronizer worn or broken.
2. Sticking in Gear.
A. Low lubricant level.
B. Corroded transmission levers
(shaft).
C. Defective (right) input shaft
pilot bearing.
D. Stuck interlock sleeve.
E. Burred or battered teeth on
synchronizer sleeve and/ or input shaft.
GEAR JUMPOUT
SHIFT LINKAGE
slots.
linkage, trunnions.
STEERING COLUMNS
2. Woro shift key or broken weld
of shift tube.
3. Keyway 10 die cast selector
radial movement in the column
linkage. (If the vehicle has high
mileage or is subjected to hard use,
CORRECTION
5. Replace defective parts. Tighten

screws securely.

1. Check operating mechanism.
A-B. Replace worn or defective

parts.
2. A. Fill to bottom of filler plug
hole.
B-D. Free-up and clean parts, replace if necessary.
C-E. Replace defective parts.
1. Adjust levers and rods to

proper crossover. Torque nuts to
rods.
2. R..:place bent rods or levers.
1. Align column properly, replace
defective column parts.
2-3. Replace defective parts.

screws securely.

TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
GEAR JUMPOUT
(Continued)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
6-5
CORRECTION

TRANSMISSION
1. Transmission misaligned or
loose.
2. Bent or worn shift fork, lever
and/ or camshaft.
3. Worn input shaft pilot bearing.
4. End play in input shaft (bearing
retainer loose or broken, loose or
worn bearings on input and output
shafts).
5. Interlock springs broken.
6. Detent notches worn.
7. Worn clutch teeth on the respective gear and/ or worn clutch
teeth on synchronizer sleeve.
8. Failure of the operator to fully
engage the gears on every shift before
engaging the clutch and applying
engine power.
LOCKED IN GEAR
When a complaint of momentary

blackout is encountered in transmissions with non-synchronized lowgear, determine whether or not a
normal "blackout" condition does
exist, the customer should be informed that the transmission gears
cannot be pulled into mesh because
of gear tooth to tooth abutment
which can be eliminated by releasing
and depressing the clutch pedal again
(thus spinning the clutch disc). This
will re-index the drive and driven
gear teeth and allow the gears to
mesh.
1. Align to specification. Torque

transmission - to - flywheel housing
bolts and flywheel housing-to-engine
bolts to specifications.
2-3-5-6-7. Replace worn or defective parts.
4. Torque retainer bolts to specification. Replace worn or defective
parts.
8. Replace worn parts and educate

the operator.
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Loose nuts at transmtsston

slots.
1. Adjust levers and rods to proper

crossover. Torque nuts to specification. Replace bell-mouthed rods and
levers. Replace bent rods or levers.
STEERING COLUMN
1. Incorrect adjustment of shift

linkage. Make certain that when
slowly shifting out of low gear, the
low gear shift lever at the transmission is completely out of low gear
detent prior to the column shift lever
dropping through neutral crossover.
If the transmission shift lever is not
completely out of low gear detent the
shift interlock in the transmission
will prevent engagement of second
gear and a lockup condition occurs.
3. Worn shift key or broken weld
of shift tube.
4. Keyway m die cast selector
radial movement in the column
linkage. (If the Yehicle has high
mileage or is subjected to hard use
1-2. Adjust column properly and

replace defective parts.
3-4. Replace defective parts.

screws securely. Clean and lubricate
with Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
GROUP

POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
LOCKED IN GEAR
(Continued)
CORRECTION

Lack of lubrication in column.
TRANSMISSION
NOISY IN FORWARD
SPEEDS
1. Shift components not functioning properly.

2. Gear seizure.
3. Synchronizer inserts out of
position.
1-3. Install correctly, replace defective parts.

2. Replace defective parts.
1. .Low lubricant level.

2. Transmission misaligned or
loose.
1. Fill to bottom of filler plug hole.

2. Align to specification. Torque
transmission - to - flywheel housing
bolts and flywheel housing-to-engine
3-4-5-6-7. Replace worn or defective parts.
lOOSe.
3. Input shaft bearings worn or

damaged.
4. Output shaft bearing worn or
damaged.
5. Mainshaft gears worn or damaged. (In any case of scored or
broken gears, the mating gears
should be checked).
6. Countershaft gear or bearings
worn or damaged.
7. Gear roll-over noise, inherent in
manual transmissions, is caused by
the constant mesh gears turning at
engine idle speed, while the clutch
is engaged and the transmission in
neutral; and throwout bearing rub
are sometimes mistaken for mainshaft bearing noise.
Gear lioll-over noise will disappear
when the clutch is disengaged or
when the transmission is engaged in
gear. Throwout bearing rub will disappear when the clutch is engaged.
In the event that a bearing is defective, the noise is more pronounced
while engaged in gear under load or
coast than in neutral. When complaints of this nature are encountered,
it will be necessary to road test the
vehicle to determine if bearing noise
exists.
any transmission! rework be attempted to eliminate gear rollover nC)ise, or throwout bearing
rub.
NOISY IN REVERSE
1. Reverse idler gear, bearing or

shaft, worn or damaged.
2. Reverse sliding gear worn or
broken.
1-2. Replace worn or defective

parts.

TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
LUBRICANT LEAKS
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Excessive lubricant.
2. Vent plugged.
3. Input shaft bearing retainer
loose or cracked, seal or gasket
damaged.
4. Worn or damaged extension
housing seal or gasket.
5. Wom shifter shaft seals.
6. Cover bolts loose. Defective
gasket. Damaged cover.
7. Extension housing or bearing
retainer bolts not sealed.
8. Expansion plug at front of case
not seated properly.
9. Access cover loose or gasket
damaged.
10. Vent incorrectly installed.
EJ
6-7
CORRECTION
1. Drain to bottom of filler plug

hole.
2. Free up.
3. Add sealer and torque retainer
bolts to specifications. Replace defective parts.
4-5-8. Replace defective parts.
5-6-7-9. Add sealer to bolts, and
torque to specifications. Replace defective parts.
10. See page 6-17, Fig. 35.
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE

ADJUSTMENT
1. Place the gearshift lever in the
neutral position.
2. Loosen the two gearshift rod
adjustment nuts.
3. Insert the gauge pin through
the holes in the levers and the bearing
at the lower end of the column.
Page 6-10.
4. Place the transmission in neutral and tighten the two gearshift
adjustment nuts.
5. Remove the pin from the levers.
6. Start the engine and shift the
selector lever to each position to
make sure it operates freely.
REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the driveshaft.
2. Remove the seal from the extension housing with the tool shown
in Fig. 1.
3. Install the new seal in the
extension housing with the tool
shown in Fig. 2.
4. Install the driveshaft.
REAR BUSHING AND SEAL
REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the driveshaft from the
car.
2. Insert the tool shown in Fig. 3

into the extension housing until it
grips the front side of the bushing.
3. Turn the screw clockwise until
the seal and the bushing are .free of
the housing.
4. Drive a new bushing into the
extension housing with the tool
shown in Fig. 4.
5. Install a new seal in the housing
as shown in Fig. 2.
LUBRICATION
Lubrication level should be in line
with the bottom of filler hole left

side of transmission case.
Tool-7697-A
OR 7000-AF
7000 GAE
FIG. 3-Removing
Extension Housing
Bushing
FIG. 2-lnstalling
Extension Housing Seal
/
FIG. 1-Removing Extension Housing Seal
FIG. 4-Replacing
Extension Housing
Bushing
6-8
EJ
GROUP 6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE

CLEANING
1. Wash all parts, except the ball
bearings, in a suitable cleaning
solvent. Brush or scrape all foreign
matter from the parts. Be careful
not to damage any parts with the
scraper. Dry all parts with compressed air.
2. Rotate the ball bearings in a
cleaning solvent until all lubricant is
removed. Hold the bearing assembly
to prevent it from rotating and dry it
with compressed air.
3. Lubricate the bearings with
approved transmission lubricant and
wrap them in a clean, lint-free cloth
or paper until ready for use.
INSPECTION
1. Inspect the transmission case
for being cracked, worn or damaged
bearing bores, damaged threads or
any other damage which could
affect the operation of the transmission.
2. Inspect the front face of the
case for small nicks or burrs that
could cause misalignment of the
transmission with the flywheel housing. Remove all small nicks or burrs
with a fine stone.
3. Replace a cover that is bent or
distorted. Make sure that the vent is

open.
4. Check the condition of the shift
levers, forks, cams, and shafts.
5. Examine the ball bearing races
for being cracked, worn or rough.
Inspect the balls for excessive looseness, wear, end play or other damage.
Check the bearings for looseness in
the bores. If any of these conditions
exist, replace the bearings.
6. Replace roller bearings that are
broken, worn or rough.
7. Replace the countershaft (cluster) gear if the teeth are chipped,
broken or worn. Replace the countershaft if it is bent, scored or worn.
8. Replace the reverse idler gear or
sliding gear if the teeth are chipped,
worn or broken. Replace the idler
gear shaft if bent, worn or scored.
9. Replace the input shaft and
gear if the splines are damaged or if
the teeth are chipped, worn or
broken. If the roller bearing surface
in the bore of the gear is worn or
rough, or if the cone surface is
damaged, replace the gear and the
gear rollers. Make sure that the
synchronizer sleeves and their respective hubs are marked before disassembly to ensure that on assembly
the splines are mated as in the
original assembly.
10. Replace all other gears that
are chipped, broken or worn.
11. Check the synchronizer sleeves
for free movement on their hubs.
12. Inspect the synchronizer blocking rings for widened index slots,
rounded clutch teeth and smooth
internal surfaces (must have machined grooves). With the blocker ring
on the cone, the distance between
the face of the blocker ring and the
clutch teeth on the gear must not be
less than 0010 inches.
13. Replace the speedometer drive
gear if the teeth are stripped or
damaged. Make certain to install the
correct size replacement gear.
14. Replace the output shaft if
there is any evidence of wear or if
any of the splines are damaged.
15. Inspect the bushing and the
seal in the extension housing. Replace them if they are worn or
damaged.
16. Replace the seal in the input
shaft bearing retainer.
17. Replace the seals or "0" rings
on the cam shafts.
18. Mark the mainshaft splines
and low reverse sliding gear to
ensure the splines are mated as in
original assembly.
6-9
PART
62
3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL

SHIFT TRANSMISSION SERIES BW 199333
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation ...... ......

...... 6-9
2 In-Car Adjustments ...... .. .. .. .. .... ...... ...... ...... 6-10
Gear Shift Linkage Adjustment .. .... ...... ...... 6-10
3 Removal and Installation ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 6-11
Section
Page
4 Major Repair Operations ... ... ...... ...... .. .. .. ...... 6-11
Disassembly ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... .... .. 6-11
Assembly
...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 6-.13
DESCRIPTION
The 300 C.D. three-speed transmission is used in models fitted with

a 6 cylinder engine. The designation
3 00 C.D. is the actual distance
between the centreline of the countershaft and the centreline of the
input shaft. An identification plate
(Fig. 5) is attached to the L/ Hand
rear of the extension housing.
A synchronizer is provided for
shifting to second and third speeds.
Shifts to first and reverse speeds are
accomplished with a sliding gear.
Ball bearings support the input shaft
and gear and the centre of the output
shaft. Needle bearings in the input
shaft bore support the front of the
output shaft. The countershaft gear
(cluster gear) runs on 3 rows of
needle bearings. A bronze bushing is
used in the reverse idler gear.
A bushing located at the rear of
the extension housing supports the
rear of the output shaft when the
tailshaft is in position. The synchronizer and the blocking rings are the
conventional tapered ring and straight
clutch gear type.
OPERATION
When first gear is selected, the

shift lever moves the first and reverse
sliding gear into mesh with the low
gear on the countershaft (cluster)
PART NQ ......___ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
MODELl
I REF. NQ I..____~
SERIAL NQ
~~LwARNER
BORG- WARNER
-$-
-~r~
_ I- - - -
(AUSTRAUA ) LIMITED
FIG. 5 -Identification Plate

gear (Fig. 6). Power flow is now from
the input gear, through the countershaft gear to the first and reverse
sliding gear and out through the
output shaft.
When second gear is selected, the
shift lever moves the second and
third speed synchronizer sleeve rearward to force the blocking ring
conical surface against the matching
cone on the constant mesh intermediate gear located on the output
shaft. When the vehicle is moving,
as when shifting from low to a
higher gear ratio, the internal teeth
of the synchronizer sleeve and those
on the blocking ring will not index
until the intermediate gear is brought
up or down to the speed of the
synchronizer sleeve which is rotating
at output shaft speed.

The synchronizer sleeve with further movement will slide over the
blocking ring and engage the clutch
teeth on the constant mesh intermediate gear. Since the intermediate
gear is now locked to the output
shaft by means of the synchronizer
sleeve, power flow is from the input
shaft through the countershaft gear
to the constant mesh intermediate
gear to the output shaft.
Engagement of third speed is the
same as second except for ratio. In
third gear, the clutch teeth on the
input shaft are locked directly to
the output shaft by the second and
third speed synchronizer to provide
a ratio of 1 : 1.
6-10
GROUP
FIG. 6-Powerftow Through Transmission

Reverse gear is accomplished by
moving the first and reverse sliding
gear rearward to engage the reverse
idler gear.
The drive is then from the input
EJ
gear, through the countershaft gear,

to and through the reverse idler gear
to the first and reverse sliding gear
which is splined to the output shaft.
The gears in this position will rotate
the output shaft in a reverse direc-
tion.
An interlock pin prevents selection
of more than one gear at a time.
Detent balls are provided to hold the
selected gear in the desired position.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE

ADJUSTMENT
1. Place the gear shift lever in the
neutral position.
2. Loosen the two gearshift rod
adjustment nuts.
3. Insert the gauge pin through
the holes in the levers and the
bearing at the lower end of the
column (Fig. 7).
4. Place the transmission in neutral and tighten the two gearshift
adjustment nuts.
5. Remove the gauge pin.
6. Start the engine and shift the
selector lever to each position to
make sure it operates freely.
IOlO La FT
73418
LUBIIUCATa IN.ID8. Ofl INftULATORS. (?MI)

WITM RS MIC75A PI" OR TO At.t.V Of~
f'OD.
FIG. 7 -Gear Shift Linkage Adiustment
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
EJ
6-11
REMOVAL

2. Remove the driveshaft. Insert
the extension housing seal installation tool, Fig. 2, page 6-7 into the
opening of the extension housing to
prevent the lubricant from leaking
out.
cable from the extension housing,
and disconnect the gear shift levers
from the transmission.
4. Remove the two nuts retaining
the transmission rear support to the
crossmember. Note. For rear crossmembers refer to Group 8.
5. Place a transmission jack under
the flywheel housing and raise the
rear of the engine slightly.
6. Remove the two cotter pins,
nuts, and bolts that attach the crossmember to the frame supports. Note.
For rear crossmember refer Group 8.
7. Disconnect the brake cable
from the equalizer lever. Separate
the lever from the crossmember.
8. Remove the crossmember from
the frame supports and allow it to
hang by the hand brake cable.
9. Move the jack under the transmission. Remove the four transmission to flywheel housing mounting bolts.
10. Move the transmission (Fig.
8), back just far enough to clear the
input shaft and remove it from
under the car.
EJ
FIG. 8-Typical Transmission

INSTALLATION
1. Install two guide pins in the
flywheel housing lower mounting

holes. Start the input shaft through
the release bearing. Align the output
shaft splines with the splines in the
clutch disc. Move the transmission
forward on to the guide pins. If the
transmission front bearing retainer
hangs-up on the release bearing hub,
move the clutch release lever to
free it.
2. Move the transmission forward
until the input shaft is through the
clutch hub and enters the pilot
bearing.
3. Install the two upper transmission to flywheel housing attaching
bolts and lockwashers.
4. Remove the two guide pins and
install the two lower attaching bolts.
Torque all attaching bolts to speci-
DISASSEMBLY
1. Mount the transm1ss1on in a

holding fixture and drain the lubricant.
2. Remove the transmission cover

and gasket.
3. Remove the extension housing
attaching bolts and remove the
extension housing and gasket (See
disassembly Fig. 9).
4. Remove the speedometer drive
gear snap ring, the gear, and drive
ball from the output shaft.
5. Remove the retainer for the

reverse idler shaft and countershaft
(Fig. 10).
FIG. 9-Gearcase Dismantled
fications.
5. Position the crossmember to
the frame supports. Install the
equalizer lever and brake cable.
6. Secure the transmission rear
support to the crossmember. Secure
the crossmember to the frame supports and remove the transmission
jack.
7. Connect the gear shift rods and
speedometer cable.
8. Remove the tool (Fig. 2, .page
6-7 ) from the rear of the extension
housing. Install the driveshaft, and
torque rear U-bolt nuts to specification.
9. Fill the transmission with approved lubricant. Check the shifting
action of the transmission.
10. Adjust the shift linkage as
required.
6-12
GROUP

14. Remove the second and third
speed gearshift fork.
15. Move the first and reverse
spe~~
sliding gear into first speed

posltlon.
16. Move the second and third

gear synchronizer outer sleeve rearwards to engage the second speed
gear clutch teeth.
17. Remove the output shaft assembly through the top of the case.
FIG. 12-Removing or
Replacing Input Shaft
19. Remove the reverse idler and

cluster gear.
FIG. 10-Countershaft and

Reverse Idler Retainer
20. Remove the synchronizer retaining snap ring and slide off the
second and third speed synchronizer
assembly and second speed gear with
its blocker ring. Take a note of the
synchronizer assembly hub end position for reference on assembly.
6. Hold the countershaft gear with

a hook and using the tool (dummy
shaft) shown in Fig. 11, drive the
countershaft rearward out of the
countershaft gear and the transmission case. Then, carefully lower
the countershaft gear and dummy
shaft to the bottom of the case.
7. After removing the input shaft

bearing retainer and gasket, remove
the input shaft assembly and front
synchronizer blocking ring from the
transmission case (Fig. 12).
speed gearshift cam into third speed
position.
9. Remove the gearshift levers.
10. From the underside of the

case, knock out the taper pin from
each gearshift camshaft (Fig. 13),
11. Push the gearshift cam and

shaft assemblies against the inside
of the case.
18. Using a soft drift, drive the

reverse idler shaft from the case.
21. Mark the relative positions of

low-reverse sliding gear and output
shaft splines for reference on assembly and remove the sliding gear.
FIG. 1 3-Removing Cam

and Shaft Taper Pins
REPLACEMENT
CAM AND SHAFTS AND OIL
SEALS
12. Remove the output shaft bearing outer snap ring. Push the output
shaft assembly forward so that the
output shaft bearing moves through
into the gear case. Move the output
shaft assembly away from the gearshift forks.
1. Using a plastic hammer, drive

the second and third cam and shaft
toward the inside of the case and
separate the detent balls and spring
from the plunger. Push out the cam
and shaft assemblies, and remove the
plunger.
13. Remove the first and reverse

2. If required, the cam shaft oil

seals or "0" rings may be replaced
~y removing them from their grooves
m the cam shafts or extracting from
case.
INPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the snap ring and
spacer securing the input shaft bearing, and press the input shaft out of
the bearing, oil slinger and remove
the spacer retaining snap ring and
rollers (14) from the internal bore of
the input shaft.
DUI~MY
COUNTER
SHAFT
SHAFT
FIG. 11-Removing Countershaft
OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the snap ring securing

the output shaft bearing. Remove
the bearing and spacer as shown in
Fig. 15.
PART 6-2-3
SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
6-13
FRONT BEARING RETAINER SEAL

1. Remove the input shaft seal
from the front bearing retainer as
shown in Fig. 19.
2. Install a new input shaft seal

as shown in Fig. 20.
ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate the interlock sleeve

bore of the gear case and the outside
of the interlock sleeve. Use grease to
locate one interlock ball in the interlock sleeve and fit the sleeve to the
case.
2. Lubricate a: new "0" ring seal
and fit to the shaft.
FIG. 14 -Selector
Camshafts, Levers and

Interlock Assembly
FIG. 15-Removing
Output Shaft Bearing
2. Press the output shaft bearing
onto the shaft as shown in Fig. 16
and install the spacer and snap ring
on the shaft. Select a snap ring to
keep end float to a minimum ( 000
to 004).
FIG. 16-Replacing
3. Lubricate the shaft of the first

and reverse gearshift cam and shaft
assembly and fit it to the case. Align
the shaft retainer groove and the hole
in the case and fit the taper pin.
Fig. 29 (Use sealer on pin).
4. Lubricate the shaft of the

second and third speed gearshift cam
and shaft assembly. Fit the cam and
shaft assembly and use the centl.'e
detent notch to retain the interlock
spring, interlock pin and second
detent ball, which should now be
fitted. (Interlock sleeves are selectively fitted for axial movement of 002
to 010 in all gear selection positions
-refer Fig. 21). Do not fit taper pin
to second and third camshaft at this
stage.
5. Lubricate the bore of the reverse idler gear and bush assembly,
and install the gear and bush assembly, fitting the reverse idler shaft to
the case so that the locking groove is
flush with the outside of the case and
adjacent to the cluster gear shaft bore.
Fig. 22. The reverse idler gear
should be installed so that the longer
boss of the gear is towards the front
of the case. Fig. 23.
SYNCHRONIZER
1. Remove the synchronizer sleeve,
blocking rings, inserts, and retainers
from the synchronizer hub (Fig. 17).
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
IEARINGS
1. Remove the flat washers, dummy shaft, spacer, and roller bearings
from the countershaft gear (Fig. 18).
FIG. 17-2nd & 3rd Synchronizer

Disassembled
6-14
GROUP
~- CLUSTER
6-GENERAl TRANSMISSION SERVICE
GEAR DISASSEMBLED l
REAR 81 METAL THRUST
WASHER
FRONT THRUST
WASHER
inner and outer rear cluster thrust

washers on rear of the cluster gear.
(Steel washer against cluster, tangs
engaged with slots in cluster. Bimetal
washer to case, tang to engage with
slot in case).
8. Place the cluster assembly in
the bottom of the gear case, Fig. 24,
ensuring that the tangs of the thrust
washers fit the grooves of the case.
FLAT
WASHER
6. Using the dummy countershaft,

assemble the cluster gear bearing
spacer and needle roller bearings to
the cluster gear, so that there is a
single row of 22 needle rollers and a
needle roller flat washer at the forward (large gear) end of the cluster
gear, and two rows of 22 needle
roller bearings, separated by a needle
roller flat washer at the rear (small
gear end) of the cluster gear. Fig. 18.
7. Use grease to locate the forward
cluster gear thrust washer (large
Bimetal washer, tang to engage with
slot in case) (Refer Fig. 18) and the
9. Assemble the second and third

gear speed synchronizer as follows:
Lubricate the second and third speed
synchronizer sleeve and fit it to the
second and third speed synchronizer
inner hub with the sleeve selector
groove and the hub inner spline protrusion at opposite ends. Slide the
sleeve across the hub until three
second and third speed shift plates
can be fitted into the slots in the inner
hub (Fig. 17). Fit the two second
and third speed synchronizer springs,
one in each end of the hub, so that a
tang of each spring fits into the same
shift plate. The free ends of the
springs should not be in line
(Fig. 25).
10. Fit the output shaft bearing to
the output shaft behind the splines
for the first and reverse sliding gear.
Fit a retainer ring and snap ring,
selecting the snap ring to keep end
float to a minimum within the limits
000 to 004 inches. (Snap rings are
available in 4 selective sizes). Do not
FIG. 1.9-Removing Input

Shaft Seal
FIG. 20-lnstalling Input

Shaft Seal
FIG. 21-Selector Camshafts, Levers and

Interlock Assembly
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT 6-15
FIG. 22-Fitting Reverse

Idler Gear Shaft
fit the bearing outside diameter snap

ring.
selector groove of the synchronizer

sleeve to the rear of the case (Fig. 26).
11. Lubricate the splines of the

output shaft and the first and reverse
sliding gear, and fit the gear to the
output shaft (Fig. 26).
14. Fit the snap ring to the output

shaft to retain the second speed gear
and synchronizer assembly. Measure
the end float between the snap ring
and the synchronizer assembly to
ensure that this is within the limits
006 to 019 inches. It is important
that this clearance be maintained to
prevent seizure of the components
due to expansion.
12. Lubricate the bore of the

second speed gear and fit it to the
output shaft. Fit a synchronizer
blocker ring to the gear cone.
13. Lubricate the splines of the
output shaft and the second and third
speed inner hub, and fit the second
and third speed synchronizer assembly to the output shaft with the
-
15. Fit the first and reverse speed

gearshift fork to the first and reverse
speed (rearmost) cam after lubricating the shaft of the fork. (Fig. 27).
SYNCH RONISER
SLEEVE
ST. & REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
FIG. 23-Reverse Idler

Gear
OUTPUT SHAFT
FIG. 26-0utput Shaft Disassembled

FIG. 24-Ciuster Gear in
Case
2ND. t. 3RD. SPEED

LEVER
()
I"
FIRST ll. REVERS E

/LEVER
"a /
=6
---CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS - - """"
'):t .
/TAPERED RETAINING PINS
...:::::==. INTERLOCK SLEEVE DETENT

BALLS
--u ==::1
\ - .,
,._~ 9
DETENT
SPRING
2 NO. & 3 RD. SPEED

GEAiiSHIFT FORK
FIG. 25-2nd & 3rd

Speed Syncro Spring
Arrangement
Fl RST & REVERSE

GEARSHIFT FORK -
FIG. 27-Selector Camshafts, Levers and

Interlock Disassembled
FIRST & REVERS!:

CAMSHAFT
6-16
GROUP

speed gearshift cam into first gear
position. Move the second and third
speed synchronizer sleeve to engage
the second speed gear clutch teeth.
17. Lower the output shaft assembly through the top of the gear case,
fitting the first and reverse gearshift
fork into the selector groove of the
first and reverse sliding gear.
speed gearshift cam into neutral
position, and move the second and
third speed gearshift cam into third
gear position. Push this cam back
against the inside of the gear case.
19. Fit the second and third speed
gearshift fork into the selector groove
of the second and third speed synchronizer sleeve and roll it into
position in the second and third
speed cam. The fork must be fitted
so that the pad branded "T" can be
seen through the top of the gearbox.
(Fig. 28).

210. Push the second and third
speed gearshift camshaft inward and
fit the taper pin. (Fig. 29). Fit the
bearing retaining outside diameter
snap ring. Move second and third
speed synchronizer into neutral.
21. Fit the oil slinger, (assembleFig. 31-with projection between
input gear teeth), input shaft bearing
with outside diameter snap ring, retaining ring, snap ring-Fig. 32and third speed blocker ring to the
input shaft. Select the snap ring to
keep the end float to a m1mmum

within the limits 000 to 004 inches.
22. Use grease to position fourteen
needle rollers in the input shaft. Fit
the input shaft assembly to the case.
(Fig. 12).
23. Use special tool 77047B to
press the bearing retainer oil seal into
the bearing retainer after coating the
oil seal outside diameter with gasket
cement. (See Fig. 20).
24. Use a light coating of grease to
position the bearing retainer gasket,
and fit the bearing retainer with three
bolts and lockwashers, tightening the
bolts to 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque. (Fig.
33) (Use sealer on bolt threads).
FIG. 30-lnput Shaft

Rollers
25. Bring the cluster gear into

mesh by carefully turning the gearbox upside down and allowing the
cluster gear to drop into place. It
may be necessary to rotate the input
shaft to ensure proper meshing of
the gears.
26. Using the countershaft, (Fig.
34), drive out the dummy shaft from
the rear of the case until the locking
plate slot in the countershaft is flush
with the outside rear face of the case.
The slots in the countershaft and the
reverse idler shaft must be parallel
and adjacent.
27. Fit the locking plate to the
countershaft and reverse idler shaft,
tapping to bring the plate against the
case (Fig. 10).
FIG. 28-0uput Shaft

Installation
FIG. 29-Fitting Taper

Pins
FIG. 31-lnstalling Input

Shaft Bearing
28. Fit the speedometer gear retaining ball to the mainshaft and
slide on the speedometer gear. Fit
the snap ring.
FIG. 32-lnput Shaft Assembly
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
FIG. 34-Replacing
Countershaft
FIG. 33-Front Bearing
Retainer in Place
29, Measure the output shaft
bushing inside diameter. If the size
is not in the range 1 3745 to 1 3755
inches, fit a new output shaft bushing
to the extension housing using special
tool 7657G/ 27 (Fig. 4, page 6-7).
30. Fit a new extension housing
oil seal, using tool 7657G (Fig. 2,
page 6-7).
31. Position the ew:tension housing
gasket using a light coating of grease.
Install the extension housing with
six bolts and lockwashers, tightened
to 45 to 55 lb. ft. torque (Use sealer
on bolt threads).
32. Fit both gearshift levers with

lock washers and nuts, tightening to
20 to 25lb. ft. torque. (Refer Fig. 21).
33. Install a new welch plug into
the front face of the case, ensuring
that it does not protrude above the
case face. (Fig. 21) (Use sealer on
plug).
34. Pour lubricant over the entire
gear train while rotating the input or
output shaft.
35. Use grease to position the
gearbox top cover gasket. Fit the top
cover, tightening six bolts and lockwashers to 8 to 12 lb. ft. torque.
(Use sealer on bolt threads).
6-17
FIG. 35-fitting
Breather
36. Fit the drain and filler plugs,
tightening to 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque.
(Drain plug is brass with integral
magnet-filler plug is steel).
37. Fit the breather in the extension housing (when removed) with
the flat on the breather body on the
left side and parallel with centre line
of transmission. (Refer Fig. 35).
38. Check transmission operation

through all shift positions.
39. Refill transmission. Ensure oil
is level with the bottom of the filler
hole on the left side of the gear box.
6-18
PART
63
3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL

SHIFT TRANSMISSION SERIES BW 199332
& 199331
Page
Section
1 De~cription r.nd Operation ..... . .. ............ ...... .. .. 6-18
2 In-Car Adjustments .. .. .. .. ..... .... .... ........ .... ..
6-19
3 Removal and Installation .... .. ..... . .. .... ...... ..... . 6-19
Section
4 Major Repair Operations .. .. ........ .. ...... ........ ..
Disassembly .... .... .. .. ...... .... ........ .. .......... .... ..
Replacement .. .... .. ..... .. .. ....... .. ........ .. .... .. .. .. ..
Assembly ...... ... ... .... .. ...... ...... ...... .. .... .. .. ..
Page
6-20
6-20
6-20
6-20
DESCRIPTION
The 3 00 Model three-speed transmission is used for 6 cylinder engines

and V8 engined vehicles. The designation 3 00 is the actual distance
between the centreline of the countershaft and the centreline of the input
shaft.
A transmission service identification plate (Fig. 5, page 6-9 ) is
located on the left side of the extension housing at the rear. The first
line on the tag will show the transmission model and service identification code when required.
This transmission is of the fully
synchronized type, with all gears
except the reverse gear and sleeve
being in constant mesh. All forwardspeed changes are accomplished with
synchronizer sleeves (Fig. 36) instead of sliding gears. The synchronizers enable quicker-shifts, eliminates gear clash and permit easy
engagement of low gear at low
vehicle speeds.
The forward-speed gears are helical-cut and are in constant mesh
(Fig. 36). Gears used in the reverse
gear train are spur-cut and are not
synchronized.
Ball bearings support the input
shaft and gear and the centre of the
output shaft (Fig. 36). Roller bear-
2" ~ 3., SPEED
SYNCHRONIZER
l.r. SP EED
2 .. SPEED
GE~. R
GEAR
br S. REV ERSE
/
5LI W IG SLEEVE &
GEAR
OUTPUT SHAF1 BEARING
INP UT SHAFT
AND GE~ R
\
CLUSTER GEAR
FIG. 36-Gear Train Layout

ings in the input shaft bore support
the front of the output shaft. The
countershaft gear (cluster gear) runs
on three rows of roller bearings. A
bronze bushing is used in the reverse
idler gear on 6 cylinder and roller
bearings for 8 cylinder.
A bushing located at the rear of
the extension housing supports the
rear of the output shaft.
Synchronizers and blocking rings
are the conventional tapered ring and

straight clutch gear type (Fig. 17,
page 6-l3and Fig. 39,page6:2l).
The shift forks, detent mechanism,
and related parts are provided in the
transmission case (Fig. 37).
OPERATION
When the first-speed gear is selected, the shift lever moves the reverse
gear and sleeve forward and forces
the synchronizer blocking ring coni-
PART 6-3-3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
6-19
FIG. 37-Shift Mechanism

Disassembled
cal surface against the matching cone
on the constant mesh first gear
located on the output shaft. If the
car is moving, the internal teeth of
the reverse gear and sleeve blocking
ring will not index until the constant
mesh first gear is brought up or down
to the speed of the reverse gear and
sleeve which is rotating at output
shaft speed.
The reverse gear and sleeve has
internal splines that, with further
movement, will slide over the blocking ring and engage external clutch
teeth on the constant mesh first gear.
Since first gear is now locked to the
output shaft and is always meshed
with the countershaft (cluster) gear,
the power flow is from the input
gear, through the countershaft gear,
to the constant mesh first gear,
FIG. 38-Powerflow
through the reverse gear and sleeve
to the output shaft, and out the rear
of the transmission.
Engagement of second and third
gears is the same as first except for
ratio.
In third gear, the input gear and
shaft is locked directly to the output
shaft by the second and third speed
synchronizer to provide a ratio of 1 : 1.
Spur teeth are cut on the outside
of the reverse gear and sleeve. The
reverse gear and sleeve like the hub
are always locked to the output shaft.

Reverse gear is engaged by sliding
the reverse gear and sleeve into mesh
with the reverse idler gear. The drive
is then from the input gear, through
the countershaft gear, to and through
the reverse idler gear to the output
shaft reverse gear and sleeve. The
gears in this position will rotate the
output shaft in a reverse direction.
A system of interlocks and detents
in the transmission case prevents the
selection of more than one gear at a
time and helps to hold any gear in
the selected position.
EJ
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS (See
EJ
REMOVAL AND I NSTALLATION (See page 6-11. )
page 6-10. )
6-20
rJ

DJSASSEMBL Y
2. Remove the six cap screws that

attach the cover to the case. Remove
the cover and the gasket from the
case.
case. Move the mainshaft assembly

away from the gearshift forks.
in the cam shafts ("0" rings) or extracting them from the case (seals).

sleeve and gear forward into first
speed position (do not move first and
reverse gearshift fork out of neutral
position).
INPUT SHAFT BEARING
15. Remove first and reverse gearshift fork.
3. Remove the six cap screws and
lock washers that attach the extension

housing to the case. Remove the
extension and gasket from the case.
16. Remove second and third

4. Remove the three cap screws

speed synchro outer sleeve rearwards
into second speed position.
and lock washers that attach the front

bearing retainer to the case. Remove
the retainer and gasket from the case.
5. Use a soft drift to knock the
countershaft through from the front
to allow the lock plate to be removed.
Remove the lock plate. (Fig. 10,
page 6-12 ).
6. Push countershaft out through
rear of case with dummy countershaft tool No. 7111 C. (Fig. 11, page
6-12). Lower the countershaft and
dummy shaft to the case bottom.
7. Remove the snap ring that secures the speedometer drive gear on
the shaft. Slide the speedometer drive
gear off the output shaft. Remove the
speedometer drive gear drive ball
from the shaft.
8. Pull out input shaft from front
of case. Remove third speed blocker
ring. (Fig. 12,page6-12).
9. Remove rear (output shaft)
bearing outer snap ring.
10. . Move second and third speed
gearshift cam into third gear position.
11. From the underside of the

case, knock out taper pins from each
gearshift camshaft. (Fig. 13, page
6-12 ).
18. Remove output shaft assembly

through top of gear case.
19. Knock out reverse idler gear
and cluster gear assembly.
20. Remove the synchronizer snap

ring from the front of the output
shaft and slide off the second and
third speed synchronizer assembly
and the second gear with its blocker
ring.
1. Remove the snap ring and

spacer securing the input shaft bearing, and press the input shaft out of
the bearing and oil slinger.
2. Remove the rollers (14) from

the rear end of the input shaft.
l<'RONT BEARING RETAINER
SEAL
1. Remove the input shaft seal

from the front bearing retainer as
shown in Fig. 19, page 614
2. Install a new input shaft seal

as shown in Fig. 20, page 6-14
SYNCHRONIZERS
1. Push the synchronizer hub from

each synchronizer sleeve.
2. Separate the inserts and insert

springs from the hubs. Do not mix
the parts from the second and third
speed synchronizer with the first and
reverse synchronizer (Figs. 39, page
6-21 ).
Take note of the synchronizer

assembly hub end positions for
reference in assembly.
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
BEARINGS
21. Remove the output shaft bearing snap ring and spacer from the
output shaft and remove the bearing.
(Fig. 15,page 6-13).
1. Remove the dummy shaft, 66

roller bearings, and the 3 bearing
retainer washers from the countershaft gear (Fig. 40).
22. Remove the first speed synchronizer and reverse gear assembly
snap ring from the output shaft.
Remove the synchronizer and gear
assembly from the output shaft.
REPLACEMENT
CAM AND SHAFTS AND OIL
SEALS
12. Push gearshift cam and shaft

assemblies against the inside of the
case.
1. Using a plastic hammer, drive

the second and third cam and shaft
toward the inside of the case and
separate the detent balls and spring
from !he plunger. Push out the cam
and shaft assemblies, and remove the
plunger.
13. Push the output shaft assembly forward so that the output shaft
bearing moves through into the gear
2. If required, the cam shaft oil

seals or "0" rings may be replaced
by removing them from their grooves
ASSEMBLY
1. Use grease to hold 1 ball in rear
of interlock sleeve. Fit sleeve into
case.
2. Lubricate shaft of first and

reverse gearshift cam and shaft
assembly. Fit cam and shaft assembly
to case in neutral position (so that the
interlock sleeve ball is in extended
detent notch of the cam).
3. Lubricate shaft of second and
third speed gearshift cam and shaft
assembly. Fit the cam and shaft
assembly to the case, pushing the cam
against the side of the case so that the
interlock sleeve hole is not blocked.
4. Fit interlock pin, spring and
second ball. Move the cam and shaft
6-21
FIG. 39-First and Reverse Synchronizer Disassembled

CLUSTER GEAR
BIMETAL THHUST
It/ASHER
"'"" w'7
LARGE BIMETAL
STEEL THRUST
WASHER
FIG. 4 1-Ciuster Gear in

Case
synchro spring groove of the inner
hub at the same ends. Fit three first
speed shifting plates into the hub
slots, with plate pads in the recessed
end of the hub. Fit two synchro
springs under the shift plates, the
white painted spring in the spring
groove of the hub, the other ~n the
hub end recess. Note that the springs
are not identical. The spring tangs
should locate on opposite sides of the
same shift plate, so that the spring
openings do not line up. (See Fig. 39).
10. Assemble second and third
speed synchro as follows:
FIG. 40-Countershaft and Cluster Gear

assembly into third gear position, so
that extended detent notch of the cam
retains the ball and spring. (Interlock
sleeves are selectively fitted for axial
movement of 002 to 010 in all gear
selection positions. Three sizel' are
available, refer specifications page
6-35).
5. 6 Cyl. Install lubricated reverse
idler gear and bush assembly and
shaft with bevelled ends of the gear
teeth forward. Shaft must be inserted
so that the locking groove is flush
with the outside face of the gear case,
and face towards the cluster gear
shaft hole. Refer Fig. 22, page 6-15
6. 8 Cyl. Instali (22) needle rollers

and (2) thrust washers with a dummy
shaft. A dummy shaft can be made
up from an old cluster shaft. Cut off
at 1 inches.
nr
7. Assemble cluster gear, dummy

countershaft (7111 C) and bearings
as follows:
Insert dummy countershaft and

spacer into cluster gear. Fit a set of
22 lubricated needle rollers at the

front (largest gear end) of the cluster.
Fit two sets of 22 lubricated needle
rollers at the other end of the cluster,
separating the rollers with cluster
gear needle roller retainer was?er.
Fit cluster gear needle roller rctamer
washers at each end of the dummy
countershaft, together with two thrust
washers at the rear (small steel
washer to cluster, engage tangs with
slots in gears) (small bimetal to case,
engage tangs with slot in case) of the
cluster gear, and one thrust washer
(large bimetal engage tang with slot
in case) at the front end of the gear.
These may be retained with grease
(Refer Fig. 40).
8. Place cluster assembly in the
bottom of the gear case, ensuring
that the tabs of the thrust washers
fit the grooves of the case (Fig. 41 ).
9. Assemble first and reverse speed
synchro assembly as follows:
Lubricate synchro sleeve and reverse gear and fit to the inner hub
with the teeth of the gear and the
Fit lubricated synchronizer sleeve

to inner hub with sleeve selector
groove and hub inner spline protrusion at opposite ends. Slide sleeve
across hub until three second and
third speed shift plates can be fitted
into the slots in the inner hub. Fit
two second and third speed synchro
springs under the shift plates behind
the pads. Note that the spring tangs
should be located in the same shift
plate. The springs should be installed
with the free ends opposite. (Fig. 25,
page 6--15 ).
11. Lubricate first speed gear bore
and fit with blocker ring to output
shaft. The back face of the gear
should be against the rear face of the
mainshaft shoulder. Fit first speed
synchro and reverse gear sleeve
assembly, and snap ring to output
shaft with reverse gear sleeve teeth
toward rear of case. Check end float;
this should be within the limits
006" to 019''. Fit output shaft
bearing, spacer, and snap ring, (Fig.
47), selecting snap ring to keep end
float to a minimum (- 004 max.). Do
not fit snap ring to outside diameter
of output shaft bearing (Fig. 42).
6-22
GROUP
FIG. 42-Checking First &

Reverse Synchro
Assembly End Float
FIG. 44-0utput Shaft Assembly
third and neutral positions are still
held by the cams. Tilt the mainshaft
assembly away from the camshafts.
FIG.4S-Checking End
Float in Second & Third
Speed Synchronizer
12. Lubricate second speed gear
bore. Fit with blocker ring to output
shaft so that back face of gear is
against front face of output shaft
shoulder. Second speed blocker rings
are distinguished from the first speed
blocker rings by narrower slots. The
second speed blocker ring slots are
356 to 360 inches wide, the first
speed blocker rings 631 to 641
wide.
13. Lubricate the second and third
speed synchro assembly. Fit to the
output shaft with the inner hub inner
spline protrusion to the front of the
gear case. Fit the snap ring and check
that the end float is within limits
003" to 016". Refer Fig. 43.
speed synchro sleeve to engage second
gear. Move the first and reverse
synchro sleeve to engage first gear.
15. Fit the output shaft assembly

into the transmission case through
the top opening, but do not press
shaft bearing into case.
16. Push the gearshift camshafts
to the side of the case, ensuring that
17. Roll the gearshift forks into

position in the camshaft assembly.
(Fig. 45). The first and reverse fork
is installed with its selector groove to
the rear of the shank, and the second
and third fork with the pad branded
"T"upwards. Move the output shaft
assembly so that the second and third
speed fork lines up with the second
and third speed synchro sleeve and
continue moving until the groove in
the first reverse fork lines up with the
sleeve. Lift the output shaft assembly
to engage the forks in the synchro
sleeve and reverse sliding gear and
sleeve. (Fig. 45).
18. Push camshaft assemblies into
operating position and fit tapered
retaining pins into case (use sealer
on pins).
19. Pull output shaft rearwards

entering the rear bearing into the
case until the bearing outer snap
ring can be fitted. Fit the oil slinger,
input-shaft bearing (with outside
snap ring installed), spacer ring and
snap ring. Select snap ring to keep
end float to a minimum within
limits of 000 to 004. Assemble the
oil slinger with tpe projection between gear teeth.
With grease, position the needle
rollers (14 for 6 Cyl., 15 for 8 Cyl.)
in the rear bore of the input shaft,
and fit. (Do not use an excessive
quantity of grease.)
2q. Fit the input shaft assembly

to the case (Fig. 12, page 6-12 ).
Ensure correct entry of the output
shaft spigot.
21. Position the bearing retainer

gasket with a light coating of grease
and fit the bearing retainer and secure
with three bolts and lock washers,
tightening the bolts to 20-25 lb. ft.
torque. (Use sealer on bolt threads).
22. Bring the cluster gear into

mesh by carefully turning the gearbox upside down and allowing the
cluster gear to drop into place. It
may be necessary to rotate the input
shaft to ensure proper meshing.
23. Enter the plain end of the
countershaft from the rear of the case
and drive out the dummy shaft until
the locking plate slot in countershaft
is flush with the outside rear face of
the case. The slots in the countershaft and the reverse idler shaft must
be parallel and adjacent. Fig. 34,
page 6-17.
24. Fit the locking plate to the
slots in the counter shaft and reverse
idler shaft. Tap the ends of both
shafts to bring the plate firmly
against the case. (Fig. 10, page 6-12 ).
25. Measure the extension housing
rear bushing inside diameter. If the
size is not in the range 1 3745 to
1 3755, fit a new bushing to the
extension housing.
26. Fit a new extension housing
seal using tool 7657G for 6 Cyl. and
tool T61L-7657-A for 8 Cyl.
27. Position the extension housing
gasket with a light coating of grease.
Install the extension housing with
six bolts and lock washers, tighten
to 45-55 lbs. ft. torque, use sealer on
bolt threads.
28. Fit both gearshift levers with
FIG. 45-Selector Cam Shafts, Levers, Forks &

Interlock Assembly
FIG. 46-0utput Shaft

Assembly Installed in
Gear Case
6-23
FIG. 47-lnstalling
lockwashers and nuts, tightening to

20-25 lbs. ft. torque. (Large lever to
the front camshaft, small to the rear).
31. Fit the steel filler plug and

brass magnetic drain plug. Tightening to 20-25 lbs. ft. torque.
29. If removed install a new welsh

plug in the front face of the case, ensuring that it does not project above
the case face, Fig. 45 .
32. If it is necessary to fit a new

breather in the extension housing it
must be fitted with the flat on the
breather body on the left hand side
and parallel with the centre line of the
transmission. (Fig. 35,Page 6-17).
30. Position the top cover gasket,

install the top cover, tighten the six
bolts and lock washers to 8-12lbs. ft.
torque. Use sealer on bolt threads.
33. Check transmission operation

in all gear positions.
6-24
PART
64
4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED

MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation ................. 6-24
Description ............................. 6-24
Operation ............................... 6-24
2 In-Car Adjustment and Repairs ............. 6-25
Gear Shift Linkage Adjustments ........... 6-25
3 Removal and Installation .................. 6-2S
Removal ............................... 6-25
Installation .............................. 6-26
4 Major Repair Operations ................. 6-27
Section
Paae
Disassembly ............................. 6-29
Parts Repair or Replacement .............. 6-29
Gear Shift Lever ....................... 6 32
Synchronizers ......................... 6-33
Input Shaft Bearing .................... 6-31
Countershaft Gear Bearings .............. 6-31
Assembly ............................... 6- 32
DESCRIPTION
The Ford designed 4-speed transmission (Fig. 48) is of the fully synchronized type with all gears except
the reverse sliding gear being in
constant mesh. All forward-speed
changes are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves. The synchronizers
will enable quicker shifts, greatly reduce gear clash, and permit downshifting into any forward-speed gear
while the vehicle is moving.
The shift linkage is mounted
directly on the extension housing
(Fig. 50) and enters the driver's compartment through an opening in the
floor pan. A flexible rubber dust boot
(Fig. 50) is provided to seal the

driver's compartment from the exterior.
The shift pattern is shown on the
top of the gear shift lever knob. A
safety measure is incorporated in
the shift mechanism which prevents
accidental engagement of reverse
gear, this consists of a spring which
resists movement of the lever from
the neutral position, reverse being
selected by moving the lever against,
and over-riding the spring tension.
All forward-speed gears in the transmission are helical-type, however, the
reverse sliding gear and the exterior
of the first- and second-speed syn-
FIG. 41-Four-speed Transmission-Typical
chronizer sleeve are spur-type gears.

A transmission service identification tag is located on the right side of
the case at the front. The first line on
the tag will show the transmission
model and service identification code
when required. The second line will
show the transmission serial number.
OPERATION
In first-speed (Figure 49), the firstand second-speed synchronizer sleeve
is moved rearward by the shift fork.
The sleeve engages the first-speed
blocking ring, which acts as a cone
clutch applied to the free-wheeling
first-speed gear. This action speeds
up or slows down the first-speed gear
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION

to match the speed of the output
shaft. Further movement of the
sleeve locks the first- and secondspeed synchronizer hub to the firstspeed gear by means of internal
splines. On engagement of theclutch,
power flows through the input shaft
and gear to the meshed countershaft
gear and thence to the first-speed
gear. This gear transmits the power
through the locked synchronizer hub
to the transmission output shaft. All
the other forward-speed gears are in
idler motion, as they are all driven
by the countershaft (cluster) gear,
but they do not transmit power because they are not locked to the
output shaft. All the forward-speed
shifts are made in the same manner
as the first-speed shift, due to the
constant-mesh features.
Reverse gear is engaged by moving
the reverse sliding gear forward on
the reverse idler gear until it meshes
with the external teeth (spur-type) of
the first- and second-speed synchronizer sleeve. Movement of the sliding
gear is accomplished by the centre
shaft lever. With all forward-speed
synchronizer sleeves in neutral, power
flow in reverse is through the input
shaft to the constant-mesh countershaft (cluster) gear, thence to the
constant-mesh reverse idler. Splines
then carry the power through the
reverse sliding gear to the first- and
second-speed synchronizer sleeve
which is locked to the output shaft.
As the reverse sliding gear is meshed
with the synchronizer sleeve, power
is transmitted to the output shaft,
rotating it in a reverse direction.
EJ
SECOND SPEED
GEAR
FIRST AND SECOND
SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
NOTE:
All HELICAl GEARS
IN CONSTANT MESH
WITH COUNTERSHAFT
GEAR
FIG. 49-Power Flow
SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen the three shift linkage

and adjustment nuts. Install a t"
diameter alignment tool through the
control bracket and levers as shown
in Fig. 50
EJ
6-25
An alignment tool can be made

from t" diameter drill rod bent to
an "L" shape. The extensions should
be 1W' and 3W' from the elbow. Long
end of alignment pin should be inserted into control bracket and
linkage holes until it bottoms.
2. Tighten the three linkage adjustment nuts and then remove the
alignment pin.
3. Check the gear shift lever for a
smooth cross-over.
REMOVAL
1. Remove gear shift control lever

knob.
2. Remove the console and or
dust seal and retainer (Fig. 50).
3. Remove the three gear shift
control lever mounting bolts and
remove the lever.
4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

5. Disconnect the drive shaft from
the rear U-joint flange. Slide the
drive shaft off the transmission output shaft and install the extension
housing seal installation tool into the
extension housing to prevent lubricant leakage.
6. Disconnect
the
speedomett.

7. Disconnect the parking brake
cable from the equalizer lever and
separate the lever from the crossmember.
8. Remove the hairpin retainer
securing the cable to the transmission
rear support crossmember, and then
pull the cable assembly forward and
out of the crossmember.
6-26
GROUP
* With console on'ly.

FIG. 50 Installation Gear Shift Linkage
9. Support the engine with a transmission jack and remove the extension housing-to-engine rear support
attaching bolts.
.Note: Do not depress the clutch

pedal while the transmission
is removed.
10. Raise the rear of the engine high

enough to remove the weight from
the crossmember. Remove the bolts.
retaining the crossmember to the
frame side supports and remove the
cross member.
INSTALLATION
11. Support the transmission on a

jack and remove the bolts that attach
the transmission to the flywheel
housing.
12. On 6 cylinder vehicles move the
transmission and jack rearward until
the transmission input shaft clears
the flywheel housing. If necessary,
lower the engine . enough to obtain
clearance for transmission removal.
13. On 8 cylinder vehicles it will
be necessary to disconnect the transmission shift rods from the control
assembly, remove the control assembly mounting bolts and the control
or lower the muffler inlet pipe before
lowering the transmission.
1. Make sure that the mounting

surface of the transmission and the
flywheel housing are free of dirt,
paint, and burrs. Install two guide
pins in the flywheel housing lower
mounting bolt holes. Move the transmission forward on the guide pins
until the input shaft splines enter the
clutch hub splines and the case is
positioned against the flywheel housing.
2. Install the two upper tr~smis
sion to flywheel housing, mounting
bolts snug, and then remove die two
guide pins. Install the two lower
mounting bolts. Torque all mounting
3. Raise the rear of the engine and
install the crossmember. Install and
torque the crossmember attaching
bolts to specifications, then lower the
engine.
0 Without console.
4. With the transmission extension
housing resting on the engine rear
support, install the transmission
extension housing attaching bolts.
5. Secure each shift rod to its respective lever with the spring washer,
flat washer, and retaining pin.
AN ALIGNMENT TOOL CAN BE MADE
FROM 1/4" DIAMETER DRILL ROD
BENT TO AN "L" SHAPE. THE
EXTENSIONS SHOULD BE 1 - 1/2"
AND 3 3/4" FROM THE ELBOW.
LONG END OF ALIGNMENT TOOL
SHOULD BE INSERTED INTO CONTROL
BRACKET AND LINKAGE HOLES
UNTIL IT BOTTOMS.

6. Guide the parking brake cable
assembly through the hole in the
transmission rear support crossmember. Secure the cable assembly to the
crossmember with the hairpin retainer.
7. Insert the parking brake front
cable in the equalizer and install the
equalizer in the bracket on the crossmember. Secure the parking brake
rear cable to the equalizer.
seal installation tool and slide the for-
EJ
ward end of the drive shaft over the

transmission output shaft. Connect the
drive shaft the rear U-joint flange.
fo
10. On 6 cylinder vehicles attach

the gear shift control lever using
three mounting bolts.
11. Install the gear lever dust boot,
retainer and console where fitted .
12. On 8 cylinder vehicles where
the gear shift control has been re
moved from the transmission, place
both forward gear shift levers and the
reverse shift lever in the neutral position and insert a ~ inch diameter
6-27
alignment tool in the shift linkage

alignment hole (Fig. 51). Attach the
shift rods to the gear shift control
levers. Adjust the linkage as necessary
and tighten the adjustment nuts to
specifications. Remove the alignment
tool.
11. Fill the translDlSSlon to the
proper level with the specified lubricant.
12. Lower the car. Check the shift

and crossover motion for full shift
engagement and smooth crossover
operation.
GEAR SHIFT CONTROL

ASSEMBLY
port shaft upright in a vice.
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
3. Assemble parts to the support

shaft in the following order (Fig. 51)
a. wave washer
b. shift lever outer support
c. wave washer
d. 3rd & 4th shift lever
e. 1st & 2nd shift lever
f. shift lever retainer
g. shift lever spacer (long)
h. gear shift lever
j. reverse shift lever
k. shift lever inner support
l. shift lever spacer (short)
m. shift lever trunion
n. flat washer
o. support shaft retaining nut.
1. Remove the gearlever knob.

2. For vehicles fitted with centre
console, remove the three screws
securing the console and remove the
console.
3. Remove the gear lever, dust
boot and surround (Fig.50).
4. Remove the three bolts from
the gear shift control lever and remove the lever.
S. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
6. Disconnect the shift rods by
undoing the nuts at the rear ends of
the rods.
7. Remove the reversing light
switch from the gear shift control
assembly.
8. Remove the three mounting
bolts and washers,gear shift assembly
to transmission extension housing
and remove the control assembly.
9. Remove the two clamping bolts
and nuts which retain the outer and
inner supports and the lever retainer.
10. Remove the retaining nut and
washer from the gear shift lever sup
port shaft and withdraw the shaft.
11. Clean and inspect all parts for
wear or damage particularly the wave
washers.
REASSEMBLY ANDINSTALLATION
1. Lubricate all mating parts with

ESA-MIC75-B grease during assembly.
2. Clamp the gear shift lever sup
4. Install the two control assembly

clamping bolts and nuts and torque
to 8-13 ft. lbs.
S. Torque the gear shift lever sup
port shaft nut to 13-18 ft. lbs.
6. Install the gear shift control
assembly on the transmission extension housing and torque the three
bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs.
7. Install the reversing light switch.
8. Place both forward gear shift
levers and. the reverse shift lever in the
neutral position and insert the ~ inch
diameter alignment tool in the shift
linkage alignment hole (Fig. 51)
9. Position the transmission shift
levers in the neutral position and connect the shift rods to their respective
gear shift control levers and torque
the nuts.
10. Remove the gear shift lever
alignment tool and adjust the reverse
light switch.
11. Lower the vehicle and install

the gear shift control lever.
12. Install the dust boot and surround.
13. Install the console (if fitted).
14. Install the gear shift control
lever knob.
15. Check the gear shift operation.
GROUP
6-28
"'
21--.. . .
SHIFT LEVER
ALIGNMENT HOLE
22
12
13
11'------14
15
~3
ucr1011 C
~--16
FIG. 51 Gear Shift Control Assembly

DESCRIPTION
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
SpringLeverTrunionSupport AssySpacerWasherShaftDetentSupportRetainerLeverLeverWasherWasherPinSleeveLeverSpacerWasherNutRetainerBolt &NutGrommet-
Transmission gear shift lever detent

Transmission gear shift
Transmission gear shift lever
Transmission gear shift lever inner
Transmission gear shift lever (long)
1/2 wave spring
Transmission gear shift lever support
Transmission gear shift control lever
Transmission gear shift lever outer
Transmission gear shift lever
Transmission gear shift contro11st & 2nd
Transmission gear shift control 3rd & 4th
Spring
3/8 flat
3/32 x 5/8 cotter
Transmission gear shift control rod adjusting
Transmission gear shift control reverse
Transmission gear shift lever trunion
3/8 flat
3/8- 16 unc hex.
shift lever trunion
Support clamping
Gear shift control mounting.

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY

2. Remove the cover attaching
screws from the case. Lift the cover
and gasket from the case.
attaching screws and lock washers.
Remove the housing and the gasket.
4. Remove the input shaft bearing
retainer attaching screws. Slide the
retainer off the input shaft.
5. Support the countershaft gear
with a wire hook. Working from the
front of the case, push the countershaft out the rear of the case as
shown in Fig. 52. Lower the countershaft gear to the bottom of the case
with the wire hook. Remove the hook.
the third- and fourth-speed shift rail

from the front of the case. Do not lose
the interlock pin from the shift rail.
10. Remove the set screw from the
first- and second-speed shift fork.
Slide the first- and second-speed shift
rail out the rear of the case.
11. Remove the interlock pin and
the detent plug from the top of the
case (Fig. 53) with a magnet.
12. Remove the snap ring that
secures the speedometer drive gear to
the output shaft. Slide the gear off
the shaft, then remove the speedometer gear drive ball.
secures the output shaft bearing to
the shaft.
6-29
14. Remove the output shaft bearing as shown in Fig. 54.

15. Remove the input shaft and
bearing and the blocking ring from
the front of the case.
16. Move the output shaft to the
right side of the case to provide
clearance for the shift forks. Rotate
the forks as shown in Fig. 55 then
lift them from the case.
17. Support the thrust washer and
first-speed gear to prevent them from
sliding off the shaft, then lift the output shaft assembly from the case as
shown in Fig. 56.
18. Remove the reverse gear shift
fork set screw. Rotate the reverse
shift rail 90 as shown in Fig. 57.
Slide the shift rail out the rear of the
;...-SET SCREW
a-SPRING
6. Place the first- and second-speed

gear shift lever and the reverse shift
lever in the neutral position. Place
the third- and fourth-speed gear shift
lever in the third-speed position.
7. Remove the bolt that retains the
third- and fourth-speed shift rail detent spring and the plug in the left
side of the case as shown in Fig. 53.
Remove the spring and the plug with
a magnet.
8. Remove the detent mechanism
set screw from the top of the case.
Remove the detent spring and plug
with a small magnet.
DETENT PLUG+{j
' INTERLOCK PIN'i)
SCREW~
THIRD AND FOURTH
SPEED SHIFT RAIL
DETENT PLUG
,:;;,~; ;,,~--
DETENT PLUG-{)
9. Remove the attaching screw

from the third- and fourth-speed shift
fork. Tap on the inner end of the shift
rail to unseal the expansion plug from
the front of the case. Then withdraw
REVERSE SHIFT RAIL
REVERSE SHIFT FORK
SPRING--u
EXPANSION
PLUG
Tooi -T64P.niiA
COUNTERSHAFT
FIG. 52-Removing Counter-
shaft from Case
-MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG
FIG. 53-Shift Rails and Forks Disassembled
6-30
GROUP
case. Lift the reverse shift fork from

the case.
synchronizer, blocking ring and the

first-speed gear off the shaft.
19. Remove the reverse detent

plug and spring from the case with a
magnet.
26. Remove the thrust washer,

first-speed gear and blocking ring
from the rear of the shaft. The first
and reverse synchronizer hub is a
press fit on the output shaft. To
eliminate the possibility of damaging
the synchronizer assembly, remove
the synchronizer hub using an arbor
press as shown in Fig. 69. Do not
attempt to remove or install the
hub by hammering or prying.
20. Remove the reverse idler gear

shaft from the case as shown in
Fig. 58.
21. Lift the reverse idler gear and
the thrust washers from the case. Be
careful not to drop the bearings and
the dummy shaft from the gear.
22. Lift the countershaft gear and
the thrust washers from the case. Be
careful not to drop the bearings or the
dummy shaft from the counter-shaft
gear.
FIG. 56-Removing Output
Shaft Assembly
23. Remove the snap ring from the

front of the output shaft. Slide the
third- and fourth-speed synchronizer
(Fig. 59) blocking ring and the third
speed gear off the shaft.
24. Remove the next snap ring and
the second-speed gear thrust washer
from the shaft. Slide the secondspeed gear and the blocking ring off
the shaft.
25. Remove the next snap ring,
then slide the first- and second-speed
FIG. 55-Removing Shift
Fork From Case

Tool- T52T-6500-DJD
FIG. 57 -Rotating Reverse

a,.
+~
Shift Rail
:::;;_,
s \'
!ii:o
FIG. 58 -Removing Reverse

FIG. 54-Removing Output Shaft Bearing
Idler Gear Shaft
6-31
OUTPUT SHAFT
a.-- SPEEDOMETER
GEAR
DRIVE BALL
SNAP R:NG
THRUST WASHER
kOC"NG RIN:IRD
~W ~ ~
GEAA
~b
~i
r
lllOCKING RING
FIRST AND SECOND

SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
BlOCKING RING
SECOND SPEED GEAR
SN.AP RING
C1529-C
FIG. 59 -Output Shaft Disassembled

CAM AND SHAFT SEALS
INPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the attaching nut, lock

washer and the flat washer from each
shift lever and remove the three
levers.
2. Remove the three cam and
shafts from inside the case.
3. Remove the 0-ring from each
cam and shaft (Fig. 60A) and discard
the 0-rings.
4. Dip the new 0-rings in gear
lubricant and install them on the
cam and shafts.
5. Slide each cam and shaft into
its respective bore in the transmission
case.
6. Position a shift lever on each
cam and ~haft and secure with a flat
washer, lock washer and nut.

secures the bearing to the shaft
(Fig. 60B).
2. Press the input shaft gear out
of the bearing as shown in Fig. 61.
3. Press a new bearing onto the
input shaft with the tool shown in
Fig. 61.
4. Secure the bearing with a snap
ring.
SYNCHRONIZERS
1. Push the synchronizer hub from

each synchronizer sleeve (Fig. 64).
2. Separate the inserts and insert
springs from the hubs. Do not mix
the parts of the first- and second-
speed synchronizer with the thirdand fourth-speed sym:hronizer.

3. Position the hub in the sleeve,
making sure that the alignment
marks are properly indexed.
4. Place the three inserts into place
on the hub. Install the insert springs
making sure that the irregular surface
(hump) is seated in one of the inserts.
Do not stagger the springs.
COUNTERSHAFTGEAR
BEARINGS
1. Remove the dummy shaft, two

bearing retainer washers, and the 21
roller bearings (Fig. 65) from eac}l
end of the countershaft gear.
2. Coat the bore in each end of the
countershaft gear with grease.
3. Hold the dummy shaft in the
GROUP
6-32

gear off the reverse idler gear (Fig.
66).
2. Remove the dummy shaft, two
bearing retainer washers and the 44
roller bearings from the reverse idler
gear.
3. Coat the bore in each end of the
reverse idler gear with grease.
gear and install the 21 roller bearings

and a retainer washer in each end of
the gear.
REVERSE IDLER GEAR
BEARINGS
1. Slip the reverse idler sliding

REVERSE GEAR CAM
ANDSHAF T
4. Hold the dummy shaft in the

gear and install the 22 roller bearings
and the retainer washer in each end
of the gear.
5. Install the reverse idler sliding
gear on the reverse idler gear making
sure that the shift fork groove is
toward the front (Fig. 66).
FIR ST AND SECOND SPEED CAM AND SHAFT

/
~ ~
Too/-7025 -G
OR 7025-B
FIR ST AND SECOND SPEED SHIFT LEVER
~~@@~
SPEED CAM AND SHAFT I
~m}
FIG. 60A -Gear Shift Lever Disassembled-Typical

ROLLER BEARINGS
INPUT SHAFT
AND
rrv
'
BEARING
SNAP RINGS
BLOCKING RING
FIG. 608 -Input Shaft Gear Disassembled
INSTALLATION
FIG. 61 -Input Shaft Bearing
(Removal and Installation)
INPUT SHAFT SEAL
1. Remove the seal from the input

shaft bearing retainer as shown in
Fig. 62.
2. Coat the sealing surface with
lubricant.
3. Install the seal as shown in
Fig. 63.
ASSEMBLY
1. Coat the countershaft gear
thrust surfaces in the case with a thin
film of lubricant and position a thrust
washer (Fig. 65) at each end of the
case.
FIG. 62 -Removing Input Shaft Seal

2. Position the countershaft gear,
dummy shaft, and roller bearings in
the case.
3. Place the case in a vertical position. Align the gear bore and the
thrust washers with the bores in the
case and install the countershaft.
4. Place the case in a horizontal
position and check the countershaft
gear end play with a feeler gauge.
The end play should be 0 004-0 018
within specification. If not within
these limits, replace the thrust
washers.
5. After establishing the correct
end play, install the dummy shaft in
the countershaft gear and allow the
gear to remain at the bottom of the
case.
INSERT!SPRING
FIRST AND SECOND SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
ETCH MARKS
INSERT SPRING
6. Coat the reverse idler gear thrust
surfaces in the case with a thin film

of lubricant and position the two
thrust washers (Fig. 66) in place ..
7. Position the reverse idler gear,
sliding gear, dummy shaft and the
roller bearings in place making sure
that the shift fork groove in the sliding gear is towards the front of the
case.
8. Align the gear bore and thrust
washers with the case bores and install the reverse idler shaft.
9. ~easure the reverse idler gear
end play with a feeler gauge. End
play should be within specification. If
the end play is not within limits, replace the thrust washers. If the end
play is within limits, leave the reverse
idler gear installed.
10. Position the reverse gear shift
rail detent spring and detent plug in
the case. Hold the reverse shift fork
in place on the revers<.: idler sliding
gear and install the shift rail from the
rear of the case. Secure the fork to
the rail with the Allen head setscrew.
FIG. 63 -Installing Input
Shaft Seal
6-33
INSERT SPRING
"""'(
"v
GROOVE TO FACE
TOWARD FRONT
OF TRANSMISSION
THIR'D AND FOURTH SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
FIG. 64 -Synchronizers Disassembled

11. Install the first- and secondspeed synchronizer onto the front of
the output shaft (Fig. 69) making
sure that the shift fork groove is toward the rear of the shaft. The first
and reverse synchronizer hub is a
press fit on the output shaft. To
eliminate the possibility of damaging
the synchronizer assembly, install the
synchronizer hub with the teeth end
of the gear facing toward the rear of
the shaft, using an arbor press as
shown in Fig. 69. Do not attempt
to remove or install the hub by
hammering or prying.
12. Position the blocking ring on
the second-speed gear.
13. Slide the second-speed gear
onto the front of the shaft, making
sure that the inserts in the synchronizer engage the notches in the
blocker ring.
14. Install the second-speed gear
thrust washer and snap ring.
15. Slide the third-speed gear onto
the shaft with the synchronizer
coned surface toward the front.
16. Place a blocking ring on the
third-speed gear.
17. Slide the third- and fourthspeed gear synchronizer onto the
shaft making sure that the inserts in

the synchronizer engage the notches
in the blocking ring.
18. Install the snap ring on the
front of the output shaft.
19. Position the blocking ring on
the first-speed gear.
.
20. Slide the first-gear speed onto
the rear of the output shaft making
sure that the notches in the blocking
ring engage the synchronizer inserts.
21. Install the heavy thrust washer
on the rear of the output shaft.
22. Support the thrust washer and
first-speed gear to prevent them from
~liding off the shaft and carefully
lower the output shaft assembly into
the case as shown in Fig. 56.
23. Position the first- and secondspeed shift fork and the third- and
fourth-~peed shift fork in place on
their respective gears and rotate them
into place.
24. Place a detent plug (Fig. 53)
in the detent bore. Place the reverse
shift rail into neutral position.
25. Coat the third- and fourthspeed shift rail interlock pin with
grease and position it in the shift rail.
26. Align the third- and fourthspeed shift fork with the shift rail
6-34
bores and slide the sl>ift rail into

place making sure that the three detents are facing toward the outside of
the case. Place the front synchronizer
into ,third-speed position and install
the set screw in the third- and fourthspeed shift fork. Move the synchronizer to the neutral position. Install
the third- and fourth-speed shift r~
detent plug, spring and bolt in the
left side of the transmission case (Fig.
53). Place the interlock plug (tapered
ends) in the detent bore.
27. Align the first- and secondspeed shift fork with the case bores
and slide the shift rail into place.
Secure the fork with the set screw.
Install the detent plug and spring in
the detent bore. Thread the set screw

to specification.
28. Coat the input gear bore with a
thin film of grease, then install the
15 roller bearings in the bore. A
thick film of grease could plug
the lubricant holes and restrict
lubrication of the bearings.
29. Position the front blocking ring
in the third- and fourth-speed synchronizer.
Place the input shaft gear in the
transmission case making sure that
the output shaft pilot enters the
roller bearings in the input gear.
30. Place a new gasket on the input shaft bearing retainer. Dip the
attaching bolts in sealer and install
COUNTERSHAFT
RETAINER WASHER
THRUST
WASHER
j~'
'
'
RETAINER
WASHER
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
~ROLlfR
......
BEARINGS
FIG. 65 -Countershaft Bearing Disassembled

REVERSE IDLER
GEAR SHAFT
REVERSE IDLER GEAR
FIG. 56-Reverse Idler Gear DisaSsembled
and tighten them to specifications.

31. Install the output shaft bearing
as shown in Fig. 67. Install the snap
ring to retain the bearing.
32. Position the speedometer gear
drive ball in the output shaft ana
slide the gear into place. Secure the
gear with the snap ring.
33. Place the transmission in a vertical position as shown in Fig. 68.
Align the countershaft gear bore and
thrust washers with the bore in the
case. Install the countershaft.
34. Use a new gasket and secure
the extension housing to the case with
the attaching screws. Use a sealer on
the extension housing attaching
screws. Torque the screws to specifications.

35. Install the filler and drain plugs
in the case if they were removed.
Make sure that the magnetic plug is
installed in the bottom of the case.
--- ---
36. Pour the specified lubricant

over the entire gear train while
rotating the input shaft.
37. Place each shift fork in all positions to make sure that they operate
properly.
38. Use a new cover gasket and install the cover. Coat the cover attaching screws with sealer and install and
tighten them to specifications.
39. Coat the third- and fourthspeed shift rail plug bore with a
sealer and install a new expansidh
plug.
40. If the extension housing bushing and seal are to be replaced, refer
to page 6-7.
FIG. 67 -Installing Output Shaft Bearing
SYNCHRONIZER
IHST ALLA TIOH
FIG. 68 -Installing
FIG. 69 -Removing and Installing First and
Countershaft
Reverse Synchronizer
6-35
6-36
PART
6-5
SPECIFICATIONS
GEAR RATIOS
Transmission Series
199333 6 Cyl.
199332 6 Cyl.
199331 8 Cyl.
Transmission Series
4 - Speed Manual
First Gear
Second Gear
Third Gear
Reverse Gear
2.95 : I
2.95 : I
1.69 : I
1.69: I
1.00: I
1.00: I
3 . 80 : 1
2.71 : I
1.69 : I
1.00 : I
3 . 367 : 1
3 . 67 : 1
First Gear
Second Gear
Third Gear
Fourth Gear
Reverse Gear
2 . 78 : 1
1 . 93 : 1
1 . 36: 1
1 . 00 : 1
2 . 78 : 1
SPECIFIED CLEARANCES (Ins.) 3-speed

First Speed Gear End Float (Series 130033 only)
0.006
0.006
0.000
0.000
Second Speed Gear End Float

Input Shaft Bearing End Float
Output Shaft Bearing End Float
Interlock Sleeve (a ll Four Gear Positions)
- 0.0 19
- 0,019
- 0.004
- 0.004
\'v' ith one cam in neutral

and the othe r in gear
there must be 0.002
min. to 0.0 I 0 max. axial
movement of t he interlock slee ve
SPECIFIED CLEARANCES (Ins.) 4-speed

Countershaft Gear End Play
0.004-0 .018
Reverse Idler Gear End Play
0 .004 -0.018
SELECTIVE COMPONENTS (Ins.) 3-speed
0.086
0.089
0.092
0.095
Inpu t Sha ft Bea r ing Sna p Ring Th ickne ss , and

O utp ut Shaf t Bea r ing Snap Ring Thickn ess
1.292 - I .294
I .297 - I .299
1.302 - 1.304
In t erl ock Sleeve A vai lable Leng t hs
NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS 3-speed

Cou nter Shaft Ge ar
- 0.088
- 0.091
- 0.094
- 0.09/
3 Sets of 22 Roll ers
Input Sh aft 6 cyl.
14 Rolle rs
Input Shaft 8 cyl.
1 5 Rollers
RP.verse Idler Shaft 8 cyl.
22 Rollers
GROUP
TORQUES {Lbs-Ft.) 3-speed
44-55
8 - 12
20 - 25
20-25
20 - 25
20-25
Extension Housing to Case Bolts

Transmission Cover Retain ing Bolts
Input Bearing Retainer Bolts
Operating Lever Retaining Nuts
Drain Plug (Magnetic)
Filler Plug
TORQUES (Lbs. Ft.) 4-speed
Input Shaft Bearing Retainer to Transmission Cas.e
19-25
Extension Housing to Transmission Case
42-50
Access Cover to Transmission Case
14-19
Gearshift Lever to Cam and Shaft
18-23
Shift Fork to Shift Rail
10-18
Filler Plug to Case
10-20
Flush to
0.020" below
surface
Detent Set Screw (special)
Third and Fourth Shift

Rail Detent Bolt
10-18
Transmission to Flywheel Housing Bolts
37-42
LUBRICATION 3-speed
Ford Specification
ESW- M2C37
Type
SAE30
Capacity Imp. Pints

1 30032 Series
3 . 13
1 30033 Series Falcon
2 .7
130033 Ser1es Fairlane
3 .0
LUBRICATION 4-speed
Capacity (Imp. Pts.)
Type
SAE80 (ESW-M2C-83B)
3%
ASSEMBLY SPECIFICATION 3-speed

Breother AsseMbly
Flat on side of Breather Body must be on right hand

side of Extension Housing (Filler Plug side) and
parallel with centre line of Transmission within 5
6-37

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
---
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
GROUP
7
PAGE
PART 7-1- Borg-Warner Automatic Transmission
7-2
PART 7-2- C4 Automatic Transmission
7-37
PART 7-3- F.M.X. Automatic Transmission
7-82
PART 7-4- Specifications
7-122
7-2
PART
7-1
BORG-WARNER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Section
1 Description and operation
Page
7- 2
7-2
7-3
7-4
7-6
7-11
Torque converter
Transmission
Control system
Hydraulic circuits and power flow
2 Diagnosis and testing
Section
Pare
7-20
7-21
7-25
3 In car adjustments
Table of shift speeds
4 Cleaning and inspection
5 Removal and installation
6 Major repair operations
7-26
7-26
The automatic transmission consists of a torque converter and a

hydraulically controlled epicycle gearbox which provides three forward
gears and one reverse.
The torque converter is an "open"
type which means that the drive
through converter is by means of the
hydraulic fluid circulating therein.
This gives good flexibility in top gear
which can be engaged at low road
speed with ligh~ t~ottle op~ning.
Economic operation 1s thus achieved.
The automatic transmission has a
planetary gear set consisting of 2 sun
gears, 2 sets of 3 planet pinior;ts contained within 1 planetary earner and
1 ring gear.
The various speed ratios are
obtained by holding or clutching
various combinations of elements of
the planetary train, and this is performed by two bands, two multi disc
clutches, and a one way clutch.
A gear type oil pump driven by
the engine is employed for supplying
the hydraulic control system.
The engines on vehicles equipped
with automatic transmission cannot
be started by pushing or towing the
vehicle.
. A selector lever may be mounted
on the steering column or on the
floor, the range chosen showing in
the quadrant located above the steering wheel centre or on the floor
console.
The transmission has six positions
on the selector quadrant and allows
for fully automatic or manually controlled gear changes.
'P'- (Park)
'R'- (Reverse)
'N' - (Neutral)
FIG. 1 - CRUIS-0-MA TIC

'D' - (Normal Drive Position) Car starts in first gear and automatically shifts to second and third gears.
'2' - Second gear - Car starts
and remains in second gear.
'1' - First gear - Car starts and
remains in first gear.
When a shift to '1' is made from 'D'
or '2' with throttle closed the car will
remain in second gear until approximately 17 mph before shifting to low
gear.
A part throttle downshift has been
incorporated in this transmission to
make it sensitive to torque demand.
The three elements in the torque

converter are an impeller driven by
the engine and a turbine or rotor
attached to the transmission input
shaft, as in a fluid flywheel, plus a
stator mounted on a sprag type oneway clutch between the impeller and
the turbine. The stator can only
revolve in the same direction as the
impeller.
When starting from rest only the
impeller revolves and fluid is thrown
outwards by centrifugal force through
the impeller vanes and is directed
into the turbine thus causing the
turbine to rotate as well (see Fig. 3).
The fluid passes through the turbine
vanes and is directed backwards into
the stator which remains stationarv as
it cannot revolve in the reverse direction against the one-way clutch. The
direction of the fluid passing through
the stator vanes is changed and on
TOWING
Important. Should it be necessary to tow a vehicle fitted with an

Automatic Transmission, the drive
shaft must be disconnected or the
rear end of the car suspended, otherwise subsequent failure of the transmission will occur.
TORQUE CONVERTER
The drive from the engine to the

transmission is by means of a three
element hydrokinetic torque converter which provides an infinitely variable torque multiplication between
2: 1, . when starting from rest or
during maximum acceleration, and
1:1, when the engine and transmission input shaft speeds are approximately the same. Under the latter
condition the torque converter performs the same function as a fluid
flywheel.
DEPRESS
KNOB
TO SHIFT
FIG. 2 - Floor Shift Typical
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-3
'II
I
I
I
FIG. 3 - Torque Converter Operation

re-entering the impeller assists in
driving it, thus providing a torque
multiplication.
As the turbine speed increases, the
fluid ftow angle from the turbine
vanes changes, until at a speed
differential of approximately ninety
per cent of the impeller the stator is
driven in the same direction as the
turbine and the impeller.
The torque converter then adopts
the characteristics of a fluid flywheel
and there is no torque multiplication.
The torque converter fitted to the
Falcon has a nominal diameter of
11 in.
the forward sun gear, in reverse

power enters through the reverse sun
gear, power leaving the gear set in
each case by the ring gear. For forward gears the double set of pinions
is used, but in reverse a single set is
used so causing the ring gear to
rotate in the opposite direction to the
sun gear. The various mechanical
ratios of the gear set are obtained
by the engagement of hydraulically
operated multi-disc clutches and
brake bands.
MULTIPLATE CLUTCHES
The two multiplate clutches are
operated by hydraulic pistons to

connect the converter to the gear set.
For first and second gears the front
clutch connects the converter to the
forward sun gear, and for reverse the
rear clutch connects the converter to
the reverse sun gear. Both clutches
are applied locking the epicyclic gear
train to give direct drive (1 : 1) for
top gear.
The front clutch consists of three
externally and four internally toothed
plates. The rear clutch consists of
five pairs of internally and externally
toothed plates.
TRANSMISSION
The transmission consists of a

hydraulically controlled epicyclic gear
train with two multi-plate clutches,
two brake bands and a sprag type
one-way clutch. By applying the
clutches and/ or brake bands automatically in various combinations,
three forward gears and one reverse
are obtained. Hydraulic fluid is supplied under pressure to a control
system and thence to the clutch
operating pistons and brake band
servos by an oil pump driven by the
engine. This pump supplies all the
hydraulic needs of the automatic
transmission and torque converter.
FRONT PUMP
DRIVE TANGS
EPICYCLIC GEAR TRAIN
The gear train consists of two sun

gears, two sets of pinions mounted
on a pinion carrier and a ring gear. In
forward gears power enters through
FIG. 4 - Torque Converter Typical
7-4
GROUP
The internally toothed plates are

faced on each side with friction
material and are interchangeable
between the front and rear clutches.
The externally toothed plates, however, are not interchangeable as the
rear plates are dished. The dished
plate<> can be readily identified as
some of the teeth are omitted.
These plates must always be fitted
with the dishing in the same direction.
Brake Bands.
Elements of the gear set are held
stationary, to effect an output shaft
speed reduction, by two brake
bands, each operated by a hydraulic
servo. The rear band holds the
pinion carrier stationary to provide
the first gear ratio with engine braking in Jock-up. The reverse sun gear
is held stationary by the front band
to provide the second gear ratio.
One-way Clutch.
In drive a one-way sprag-type
clutch is used, instead of the rear
band employed in lock-up, to prevent anti-clockwise rotation ot the
pinion carrier.
This one- way clutch allows the
gear set to freewheel when in first
and assists smooth changes between
first and second and vice-versa.
INHIBITOR SWITCH
A non-adjustable inhibitor switch

is mounted on the left hand side of
the transmission.
It is operated by a rod mounted
internally and connected to the
parking pawl.
Four terminals are provided-two
for ignition and two for reversing
lamp connections.
CONTROL SYSTEM
The control system regulates

pump pressure and directs fluid
to the converter and lubrication
system . Also, it directs fluid to
the appropriate clutch and servo
pistons, but at a pressure which
varies with vehicle speed and engine torque. Three types of valves
are used, regulating valves, shuttle
valves and a manual valve.
Regulating valves operate in
equilibrium which means that the
total force operating in one direction on the valve is opposed by
an equal and opposite force. These
forces are respectively, spring
forces and hydraulic pressures
operating on given areas of the
7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
valves. Regulated pressures are
controlled by the valves oscillating between a feed and an exhaust
port to maintain this equilibrium.
Shuttle valves move in both
directions a fixed distance. This
movement is caused by the forces
in one direction exceeding the
forces in the opposite direction.
These forces are respectively spring
and hydraulic pressure acting upon
given areas of the valves. These
valves are used to direct or to provide an exhaust for fluid.
The manual valve is controlled by
the position of the selector lever and
directs fluid, or provides an exhaust
from, the clutch and servo pistons
according to the position selected.
OIL PUMP
The oil pump driven by the

torque converter impeller, operates whenever the engine is running. All the hydraulic requirements of the torque converter and
automatic transmission are supplied by this pump.
The oil pump consists of an inner
externally toothed gear in mesh with
an internally toothed gear housed
eccentrically to the inner gear. The
drive to the pump inner gear is by
tangs on the drive shaft attached to
the torque converter and the gear
revolves about the torque converter
support on the pump adaptor plate.
The operation of the oil pump is
shown diagrammatically in Fig. 5.
As the gears revolve, oil is drawn
from the sump through the inlet port
into the space between the gear teeth
as they come out of mesh and is
carried round between the gear teeth
to the outlet- port where the teeth
again mesh.
The oil is forced out through the
outlet port and flows to the regulator
valves which control the delivery
pressure.
PRIMARY REGULATOR VALVE
This valve regulates pump pressure. Control pressure, operating

on a small area of the valve, is
affected by modulated throttle pressure operating on one end of the
valve. These forces are opposed by
the primary regulator valve spring
and ~hrottle pressure acting on the
opposite end of the valve. The control pressure produced varies with
the accelerator pedal position and
car speed, and provides the correct

clutch and servo capacity under
operating conditions.
This control pressure is directed
to the manual valve and throttle
valve from the primary valve.
SECONDARY REGULATOR VALVE
This valve controls convertor

and lubrication pressures. Convertor pressure acting on one end of
the valve is opposed by spring
force on the other end.
GOVERNOR
The governor, mounted on and

rotated by the output shaft, is a
pressure regulating valve which
reduc<:s control pressure to a figure
that varies with the output shaft,
speed, and therefore, car speed.
This variable pressure in the
control system effects up and down
changes through the first to second
and second to third shift valves.
When the governor rotates at low
speeds (Fig.6), the governor weight
and valve move outward by centrifugal force. This outward force is
opposed by hydraulic pressure produced by governor pressure acting
upon a small area of the governor
valve. Since the governor valve
is a regulating valve, and attempts
to remain in equilibrium governor
pressure will rise in accordance
with the increase in centrifugal
force caused by increased speed of
rotation.
As output shaft speed increases,
the governor weight moves outwards to a stop in the governor
body. When this happens, a spring
located between the weight and
the governor valve becomes effective. The constant force of this
spring combines with the governor
valve centrifugal force to oppose
governor pressure, so rendering
governor pressure less sensitive to
output shaft speed variations.
Manual Centro! Valve.
This valve, actuated by the selector
lever directs control pressure to, or
exhausts fluid from, the appropriate
valves or modulator valve and plunger components, according to the
position selected.
PART 7-1
INNER
GEAR
@ INLET
-
Q) OUTLET
@ SUCTION -
LINE PRESSURE
FIG. 5 -Oil Pump Operation

Downshift Valve and Throttle
Valve.
gine load and car speed . Th1s pressure is directed to the primary regulator valve spring end to vary basic
control pressure accordingly , so
providing correct servo and clutch
capacities and consistent change
quality under operating conditions.
Full movement of the downshift
valve directs throttl e pressure to
the shift valves to delay changes
up, or effect third to second or
third to first changes at pre-set
maximum speeds. Also , throttle
pressure is directed to the second
to third valve plunger. This reduces the value of throttle pressure
by a fixed amount and this pressure
is diFeeted to the first to second
The down shift valve , connected

to the throttle linkage by a cable
actuated cam, varies control pressure with accelerator pedal depression . Movement of the downshift valve compresses the throttle
valve spring located between the
downshift valve and the throttle
valve . This spring is opposed by
the throttle return S!)ring combined
with throttle pressure, acting at
low car speed , on one area of the
throttle valve , and at high road
speed on two areas of the throttle
valve . A pressure is produced
therefore, proportional to both en-
and second to third valves to control the change points sensitivity

relative to throttle pressure and ,
therefore , accelerator position .
The modulator plunger is a regulating valve that reduces throttle
pressure by a fixed amount. This
modulated pressure operating on
one end of the plunger assisted by
the modulator valve spring, is opposed by throttle pressure operating
on the opposite end of the valve .
This modulated throttle pressure is
directed to the primary regulator
valve thus varying the increase
rate of control pressure relative to
throttle pressure .
The modulator valve is a shuttle
valve . Governor pressure operating on the large end is opposed
by the modulator spring. As governor pressure rises with road speed
the valve moves. contacting the
modulator plunger. Further vaJv, :
movement prevents the plunger
from regulating, and modulated
throttle pressure then becomes
equal to throttle pressure. This
movement directs throttle pressure
to a second area of the throttle
valve and by this means the high
throttle and control pressures existing at the converter stall condition
are reduced when the car is moving
for satisfactory gear change qualities.
Servo Orifice Control Valve.

This is a shuttle valve in the
front servo release circuit with
governor pressure acting on the
valve opposed by the servo orifice
control valve spring. At low gov-
WEIGHT
VALVE
GOVERNOR
SPRING
VEHICLE STATIONARY
FIG. 6 -Governor Operation
LOW SPEED OPERATION
7-5
HIGH SPEED OPERATION
7-6
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
ernor pressures, front servo release

fluid goes direct to the release side
of the front servo piston. At
higher governor pressures the valve
moves and fluid is directed through
an orifice and then to the release
side of this piston.
A common line supplies fluid to,
or exhausts fluid from, the rear
clutch and the release area of the
front servo, to effect the second to
third and third to second change.
At low speeds, when the servo
orifice is by-passed, the front servo
releases quickly with the result
that second to third or third to
second changes are smooth . At
higher speeds, the front servo release fluid passes through the orifice which delays the front servo
release and effects a firm second
to third and third to second change.
The servo orifice control valve
therefore affects the relationship
between the rear clutch and front
servo to provide correct change
quality under all operating conditiom
Shift Valve Operation'D' Selected
First to Second Valve and
Plunger.
Both the first to second valve

and plunger are shuttle valves and
operate together when "D" is selected. Governor pressure, operating on the large end of the first to
second valve, is opposed by reduced
throttle pressure from the second
to third plunger and the spring
operating on the opposite end of
the first to second plunger. When
the governor pressure exceeds the
spring force combined with reduced throttle pressure, the valvemoves tn the second 2ear oosition
and control pressure is directed to
the apply side of the front servo
piston. Movement of the valve
removes control pressure from an
additional area of the valve and
exhausts reduced throttle pressure
from the plunger via the downshift
valve. This allows the change from
second to first to occur at a lower
speed than the change from first to
second. When governor force is less
than the spring force, the valve
moves to the first gear position and
the apply side of the front servo is
opened to exhaust.
Second to Third Vahe and
Plunger.
The second to third plunger is

a regulating valve that reduces the
value of throttle pressure by a fixed

amount and is inoperative when
throttle pressure is below this fixed
amount. Throttle pressure, operating on one end of the valve
plunger is opposed by this reduced
throttle pressure and the second to
third valve spring located between
the plunger and valve. This reduced pressure is directed to the
second to third valve and the first
to second plunger to vary the
change points sensitivity relative to
throttle pressure and accelerator
position.
The second to third valve is a
shuttle valve. In the second gear
position and before the second to
third valve plunger begins regulating, governor pressure, operating
on the large end of this valve is
opposed by the second to third valve
spring.
Mter the plunger begins regulating, governor pressure, operating on
the large end of the valve, is opposed
by reduced throttle pressure operating on the small end of the valve,
and throttle pressure operating on
the end of the second to third valve
plunger. The latter force is relayed
to the second to third valve by the
valve spring. Movement of the valve
to the third gear position directs
fluid to the rear clutch and the
release side of the front servo
through the servo orifice control
valve. This pressure applies the rear
clutch. Since the release area of the
front servo is larger than the apply
area, the front servo and therefore,
front band is released. This movement also results in an area of the
valve being no longer subjected to
control pressure and prevents regulation of the second to third valve
plunger by forcing the plunger to
the end of the valve bore. Therefore
reduced throttle pressure which was
acting on the small end of the valve
is exhausted at the downshift valve.
This change in forces causes the
third to second change to occur at a
lower governor pressure, and therefore road speed, than the second to
third change.
THIRD TO SECOND DUMP
VALVE
The valve allows a quick downchange from top to second gear to

take place when 2 or 1 is manually
selected.
The operation consists of bypassing the orifice restriction in the

rear clutch and front servo release
hydraulic line with a one way ball
valve. The ball is held in position on
the separator plate with a very light
spring.
HYDRAULIC CIRCUITS AND
POWER FLOW
"N" Neutrl (Refer Fig. 10).

With the engine running the
primary regufator valve regulates
control pressure which is directed
to the manual valve and throttle
valve and it also permits fluid to
reach the secondary regulator
valve.
The secondary regulator valve
regulates pressure to the converter and lubrication of the front
end ot the transmission. The same
pressure is directed to the rear end
ot the transmission.
The valve returns excess ftuid
to the oil pan through the pump
inlet. No power is transmitted
since the clutches and bands are
released.
First Gear with "D" selected.
Hydraulic Circuits
Pressure control of the pump
will be as with "N". However,
with the downshift valve cam in
the full throttle position, throttle
pressure regulated by the modulator valve plunger acts upon the
primary reglf'lator val\1! opposing
throttle pressure, thus modulating
control pressure for change quality.
The manual valve directs control pressure to the front clutch,
first to second valve and governor
feed. Control pressure reaches the
second to third valve to provide
for the subsequent second to third
change.
Power Flow.
The front clutch is applied connecting the converter turbine to

the forward sun gear. The oneway clutch operates so preventing
the pinion carrier from rotatina
anti-clockwise. The ring gear,
connected to the output shaft, is
rotated through the planets at an
overall ratio of 2.39 to 1. When
the car coasts the one way clutch
overruns and the gearset freewheels so that engine brakina is
not available.
Second Gear with "D" selected.
Hydraulic Circuits
Change control is provided by
the first to second valve movina
PART 7-1
against spring pressure under the
influence of governor pressvre.
This allows control pressure to
reach the apply side of the front
servo. The frcnt band thus applied together with the front clutch,
provides second gear.
With the downshift valve cam in
the forced throttle position, forced
throttle pressure acts upon the fint
to second and second to third
valves so further delaying upward
changes or providing a second to
first change at speeds when there
is little governor pressure.
Power Flow.
Again the front clutch is applied
connecting the converter turbine to
the forward sun gear.
The front band is contracted
which holds the rev~rse sun gear
stationary with the result that the
planet pinions "walk" around the
sun gear, causing the carrier to
revolve in the same direction as
the forward sun gear so that the
ring gear is driven faster than in
first gear. The gearset provides the
redflction of 1.45 to 1.
Top Gear with "D" selected
Hydraulic Circuits
Pressure control is similar to
second gear with "D" selected, except that with minimum throttle
no throttle pressure or modulated
throttle pressure acts upon the two
ends of the primary regulator valve.
Change control is provided by
the second to third valve moving
against spring pressure inftuence.
This allows line pressure to
reach the rear clutch direct, together with front servo release pres
sure directed through the servo
orifice control valve. When governor pressure is in evidence, the
servo orifice control valve closes,
forcing front servo release pressure through an orifice which thus
affects the relationship between
rear clutch apply and front servo
release in accordance with road
speed.
Since the release side of the
front servo has a larger area than
the apply side, the front servo dis~ngages the band. The rear clute~
now engaged, in conjunction with
the front clutch, provides third
gear. The absence of throttle pressure, as previously mentioned, ,will
cause the second to third valve to
move early under the governor
pressure inftuence, so providing a
low speed second to third change.

Power Flow.
Once more the front clutch is
applied, so oonnecting the converter turbine to the forward sun
gear. The rear clutch is applied,
connecting the converter turbine
to the reverse sun gear also. Relative movement of the various gears
in the gear train is impossible and
therefore the gear set revolves as
a unit, providing a ratio of 1 to 1.
"R" Reverse
Hydraulic Circuits.
Pressure control of the pump IS
similar to "P" or "N".
But, according to the amount
that the accelerator pedal is depressed, throttle pressure is directed
to the spring end of the primary
regulating valve, thus increasing
control pressure in relation to
torque capacity requirements.
The manual valve directs control pressure through the first to
second valve to the rear servo, and
control pressure through the second
to third valve to the rear clutch
and front servo release. Due to
absence of governor pressure, the
shift valves and servo orifice control valve do not operate in this
selector position.
Power Flow.
The rear clutch is applied so that
the converter turbine is connected
to the reverse sun gear, whilst the
rear band is applied, locking the
planet carrier stationary. The drive
is then transmitted to the ring gear
by the outer planets. The reverse
sun and ring gears rotate in opposite directions with a reduction
of 2.09 to 1.
"P" Park
With the engine running, the
operation of the hydraulic system
is identical to "N" except that the
manual valve directs control pressure to tt.e rear servo, although this
servo does not perform any function in "P"
No ,power is transmitted since
the clutches and bands are released. However an internal linkage from the manual valve detent
lever engages the parking pawl
with teeth on the output shaft ring
gear.
Kickdown to Second Gear 'D'
Selected (30-50 mph approximately).
With the accelerator depressed to
kickdown position, throttle pressure
is applied to the 2-3 valve and plunger at line 11. Throttle pressure and
7-7
spring pressure overcome the governor pressure on the end of the 2-3
shift valve and the valve moves to
second gear position.
The front servo release and the
rear clutch apply circuits are now
exhausted via line 7 at the manual
valve.
The transmission will now stay in
second gear until road speed drops
below 30 mph, when first gear will
be selected or governor pressure
overcomes throttle and spring pressures and moves the valve to third
gear position.
The power !low is the same as in
second gear 'D'.
Kickdown to Low in 'D' (below
30 mph approximately).
With the accelerator depressed to
kickdown position, the 2-3 shift
valve is forced to take up 2nd gear
position as described in preceding
paragraph.
Simultaneously, throttle pressure
is applied to the small end of the 1-2
shift valve via lines 11 and lOA.
Throttle pressure combined with
spring pressure will overcome governor pressure (under approximately
30 mph) and the valve will be forced
to take up first gear position. As a
result, the front servo apply circuit
will be exhausted at the 1-2 valve.
The vehicle is now in first gear and
will not change up until governor
pressure overcomes the throttle and
spring pressures and moves the valve
to second gear position.
Power flow is the same as in first
gear 'D'.
OPERATION OF THE RANGE
CONTROL VALVE G.T.A. SHIFT
PATTERN (Refer Fig. 18).
'1' - Control pressure, from line
6 at manual valve is directed to the
1-2 shift valve where it is redirected
to the rear servo apply.
At the same time control pressure
is directed from line 1 to line 5 at
the manual valve and to the front
clutch apply and governor feed lines.
Governor pressure is fed to the
range control valve at line 2 where
it feeds line 22. Line 22, governor
pressure, is directed to the large end
of the 1-2 shift valve, where it is
opposed by control pressure from
line 6, throttle pressure from 10, and
spring pressure which holds the 1-2
shift valve in first gear position.
'2' -When 2 is selected manually,
control pressure is applied to the
front clutch and governor from line 5
at the manual valve.
7-8

'D' the rear clutch and front servo
release circuits are exhausted at the
manual valve.
The front clutch and the front
servo are now applied giving 2nd gear.
Control pressure is exhausted from
line 3 at the range control valve allowing control pressure at line 12 to move
the valve against spring pressure,
blocking off governor pressure to line
22 and replacing it with control pressure which is directed to the large end
of the 1-2 shift valve holding it in
2nd gear position.
2-1
SHIFT AT SPEED
When the manual valve is shifted

from '2' to '1' control pressure in line
12 at the range control valve is exhausted via the manual valve allowing
spring pressure to move the range
control valve to the left. Control pressure in line 22 is now replaced with
governor pressure which is directed
to the large end ofthe 1-2 shift valve
holding it in the 2nd gear position.
When road speed drops below
approximately 30 mph, depending
on throttle opening, the control
throttle, and spring pressures overcome the sovernor ~ressure and
FIG. 7 - Typical Selector Linkage

Control pressure from line 12 at
the manual valve is directed to the
end of the range control valve moving it against spring pressure to
block off governor pressure at line 2
and connect line 12 to line 22 and
so replacing governor pressure at
the 1-2 shift valve with control pressure. The 1-2 shift valve is now
moved against spring pressure and
throttle pressure to open a passage
for control pressure from line 5 to
enter the Front servo apply line (19).
At the same time, the rear servo
apply line has been exhausted. The
transmission is now in intermediate
ratio. There is no upshift to 3rd,
because there is no control pressure
being directed to the 2-3 shift valve
from the manual valve.
'D' - third gear - Control pressure in line 3 acts against control
pressure in line 12 at the range control valve. Because of equal areas and
equal pressures, there is no resultant
force on the valve and the spring is
able to push the valve across cutting
off the control pressure feed to line 22
and replacing it with governor pressure from line 2. The transmission is
now in normal drive range.
3-2
SHIFT AT SPEED
When '2' is manually selected from
FIG. 8 -
Inhibitor Switch
PART 7-1
7-9
The transmission will now remain

in first gear until another drive range
is selected manually.
3-1
SHIFT AT SPEED
Rear clutch apply and front servo

release circuits are exhausted at the
manual valve.
The front clutch and the front
servo are now applied giving 2nd
gear.
The control pressure in lines 12
and 3 at the range control valve is
also exhausted via the manual control
valve. This allows spring pressure to
hold the range control valve stationary and retain governor pressure to
line 22.
FIG. 9 -Inhibitor Switch Operating Lever

moves the 1-2 shift valve to first gear
position. The front servo apply circuit is exhausted at the 1-2 shift valve
and at the same time control pressure

in line 6 from the manual valve is redirected to apply the rear servo.
When road speed drops below

approximately 30 mph, the control
throttle and spring pressures overcome the governor pressure and
moves the 1-2 shift valve to the first
gear position. The front servo apply
circuit is exhausted and the rear
servo apply circuit subjected to control pressure via the 1-2 shift valves.
The transmission will now remain in
1st gear until another drive range is
manually selected.
7-10
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PART 7-1
EJ
7-ll
When diagnosing transmission

problems, first refer to the diagnosis
guide for detailed information on the
items that could be causing the
problem. The following preliminary
checks should be made in the order
given:
1. Check the fluid level. Check the
fluid for a burnt clutch plate odor.
2. Check the engine idle speed.
3. Check the manual linkage adjustment.
4. Check the accelerator pedal
height and downshift linkage.
5. Check the throttle linkage to
assure wide open throttle operation.
6. Check the engine for proper
operation.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEVEL CHECK
1. Make sure that the vehicle is
standing level. Then firmly apply the
parking brake.
2. Run the engine at normal idle
speed. If the transmission fluid is
cold, run the engine at fast idle speed
(about 1200 rpm) until the fluid
reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm,
slow the engine down to normal idle
speed.
3. Shift the selector lever through
all positions, and place the lever at
P. Do not turn off the engine during
the fluid level checks.
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick .cap before
removing the dipstick from the filler
tube.
5. Pull the dipstick out of the
tube, wipe it clean, and push it all
the way back into the tube.
6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube
again, and check the fluid level. If
necessary, add enough fluid to the
transmission through the filler tube
to raise the fluid level to the F (full)
mark on the dipstick.
DO NOT OVERFILL THE
TRANSMISSION.
Should it be necessary to check the
fluid level when the transmission is
cold, carry out the above procedure,
when the level should be on "Add"
mark, otherwise it will be too high at
normal operating temperature when
the fluid has expanded. Re-check the
level when the gearbox is at normal
running temperature.
A fluid level that is too high will
cause the fluid to become aerated.
Aerated fluid will cause low control

pressure, and the aerated fluid may
be forced out the vent.
Low fluid level can effect the operation of the transmission and may
indicate fluid leaks that could cause
transmission damage.
Incorrect transmission fluid level
can also have the following effects,
although they may be attributable to
other malfunctions:(a) No drive in "D", "1", "2" or
"R".
(b) Slip and squawk or judder on
full throttle starts in "D",
"1", "2" or "R".
(c) Overheating due to high fluid
level during sustained high
speeds.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEAKAGE CHECKS
Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Leakage
at the oil pan gasket often can be
stopped by tightening the attaching
bolts to the proper torque. If necessary, replace the gasket. Check the
fluid filler tube connection at the
transmission. If the filler tube 0-ring
seal is leaking, replace the seal.
The transmission fluid is water
cooled; check the fluid lines and fittings between the transmission and
the cooler in the radiator tank for
looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage cannot be stopped by tightening
a fitting, replace the defective parts.
Check the engine coolant in the
radiator. If transmission fluid is present in the coolant, the cooler in the
radiator tank is probably leaking.
The cooler can be further checked
for leaks by disconnecting the lines at
the cooler fittings and apply 5 psi air
pressure to the fittings. The radiator
cap must be removed when making
this check to relieve the pressure on
the exterior side of the cooler. If the
cooler is leaking and will not hold
this pressure, the radiator must be
replaced. The cooler cannot be
replaced separately.
If leakage is found at the manual
lever shaft, replace seals that are
leaking.
The pressure port plug on the left
rear of the case must also be inspected.
Fluid leakage from the converter housing may be caused by
engine oil leaking past the rear
main bearing or from oil gallery

plugs. Be sure to determine the
exact cause of the leak.
f'LUID LEAKAGE
CONVERTER AREA
In diagnosing and correcting fluid
leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures to facilitate locating the
exact cause of the leakage. Leakage
at the front of the transmission , as
evidenced by fluid around the converter housing, may have several
sources. By careful observation, it
is possible, in many instances, to
pinpoint the source of the leak before removing the transmission from
the car. The paths which the fluid
takes to reach the bottom of the
converter housing are shown in Fig.
1.
1. Fluid leaking by the front

pump seal lip will tend to move
along the drive hub and onto the
back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the
seal will be deposited on the inside
of the c0nverter housing only, near
the outside diameter of the housing.
2. Fluid leakage by the outside
diameter of the seal and front pump
body will follow the same path as
leaks by the front pump seal or may
run down the face of the front pump.
3. Fluid that leaks by front
pump to case bolts will be deposited
on the inside of the converter housing only. Fluid will not be deposited
on the back of the converter.
4. Leakage by the front pump to
case and 0-ring seal may cause
fluid to be deposited on the inside
lower part of the converter housing
as shown in Fig. l.
Engine oil leaks are sometimes
improperly diagnosed as front pump
seal leaks. The following areas of
possible leakage should also be
checked to determine if engine oil
leakage is causing the problem:
(a) Leakage at the rocker arm

cover (valley cover) may allow oil
to flow over the converter housing
or seep down between the converter housing and cylinder block
causing oil to be present in or at
the bottom of the converter housing .
(b) Oil gallery plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face
of the block to the bottom of the
converter housing.
7-12
GROUP 7-
ranges to increase pressures within
the transmission. Observe the front
oi the flywheel. back of the block
(in as far as possible), and inside
the converter housing (Fig. I). Run
the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined.
ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK

Check and, if necessary, adjust the
engine idle speed, using the procedure given in Group 10.
If the idle speed is too low, the
engine will run roughly. An idle
speed that is too high will cause the
car to creep excessively when the
transmission is shifted into gear and
will cause rough transmission engagement.
MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS
C'..<mect manual linkage adjustment is necessary to position the
manual valve for proper fluid pressure direction to the different transmission components. Improperly adjusted manual linkage may cause
cross-linkage and subsequent transmission failure. Refer to Linkage
Adjustments for detailed manual
linkage adjustment procedures.
DOWNSHIFT CABLE CHECKS
Correct downshift cable adjustment is essential for normal
service life of transmission and
proper gear shift feel and control. Refer to the In Car Adjustments Section 3 Page 7-20 for the
detailed adjustment procedures.
CONVUTEJ
CONVUTEJ DltAIN
I'I.UG l.fAK
FIG. 11 - Typical Converter Area Leakage Checks

(c) Leakage by the crankshaft seal
will work back to the flywheel, and
then into the converter housing.
Fluid leakage from other areas,
forward .of the transmission could
cause fluid to be present around the
converter housing due to blow-back
or road draft.
The following procedure should be
used to determ ine the cause of leakage before any repairs are made:
(a) Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid .
Original factory fill fluid is dyed red
to aid in determining if leakage is
from the engine or transmission.
Since road draft may cause leaking
valley cover oil to be present on the
transmission, this leakage, if present,
should be eliminated before performing work on the transmission.
(b) Remove the converter lower
housing cover. Clean off any fluid
from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the
engine and engine oil pan. Clean
the converter area by washing with
suitable non-flammable solvent, and
blow dry with compressed air.
(c) Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel. The
converter housing may be washed
out using cleaning solvent and a
squirt-type oil can. Blow all washed
areas dry with compressed air.
(d) Start and run the engine until
the transmission reaches its normal
operating temperature. Observe the
back of the block and top of the
converter housing for evidence of
fluid leakage. Raise the car on a
hoist and run the engine at fast idle,
then at engine idle, occasionally
shifting to the drive and reverse
INITIAL ENGAGEMENT
CHECKS
Initial engagement checks are made
to determine if initial band and clutch
engagements are smooth.
Run the engine until its normal
operating temperature is reached.
With the engine at the correct idle
speed, shift the selector lever from
N to D, 2, 1 and R. Observe the
initial band and clutch engagements.
Band and clutch engagements should
be smooth in all positions. Rough
initial engagements in D, 2, 1 or R
are caused by high engine idle speed
or high control pressures.
TRANSMISSION OPERATION
CHECKS
TEST PREPARATION
1. Attach a tachometer to the
engine.
2. Attach a pressure gauge to the
control pressure outlet at the transmission (Fig. 12).
PART 7-1 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner}

3. Firmly apply the parking brake
and start the engine.
4. With the engine at normal
operating temperature, adjust the
engine idle speed to the specified
rpm. If the engine idle speed cannot
be brought within limits by adjustment at the carburettor idle adjustment screw, check the throttle and
downshift linkage for a binding condition. If the linkage is satisfactory,
check for vacuum leaks into the
engine.
If the engine speed recorded by the

tachometer exceeds the maximum
limits specified in Table 1, release the
accelerator immediately because
clutch or band slippage is indicated.
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTS
STALL SPEED TOO HIGH
The test results of the following

checks should agree with the specifications given in Table 1. When performing control pressure tests, make
certain that the service brake pedal is
held in the applied position.
It is important that both the
engine and transmission are at their
normal operating temperature.
A higher stall speed than that

specified indicates that the convertor
is not receiving its required fluid
supply or that slip is occurring, depending on transmission selector
lever position. Excessive engine rpm
only in D, 2 or 1, indicates forward
clutch slippage. Excessive engine
rpm only in R indicates either
reverse-high clutch or low-reverse
band slippage. Excessive engine rpm
only in D indicates gear train oneway clutch slippage.
TEST No. 1
CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK
AT ENGINE IDLE
Start the engine and allow it and

the transmission to reach their normal operating temperatures. At the
correct engine idle speed, check the
transmission control pressure gauge
at all selector lever positions. The
pressure: <>hould agree with the specifications shown in Table 1.
IDLE PRESSURE TOO LOW
Check the downshift cable adjustment and revise as necessary.

Low pressure may also be due to
excessive leakage in the oil pump,
case and control valve body, or a
sticking control pressure regulator
valve.
clutch. While making this test,

do no hold the throttle open for
more than five seconds at a time.
Then move the selector lever to
Neutral and run engine at 1000 rpm
for about 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test.
STALL SPEED TOO LOW
When the stall test speeds are low

and the engine is properly tuned,
converter stator clutch problems are
indicated. A road test must be performed to determine the exact cause
of the trouble.
If the stall test speeds are 300 to
400 rpm below the specifications
shown in Table 1, and the car cruises
properly but has very poor acceleration, the converter stator clutch is
slipping.

400 rpm below the specified values,
and the car drags at cruising speeds
and acceleration is poor, the stator
clutch could be installed backwards.
Remove the converter and check
the stator clutch by replacing with
a converter known to be operating
correctly and retesting.
Below standard acceleration in top
gear above 30 mph combined with a
substantially reduced maximum
speed, indicates that the stator oneway clutch has locke;d in the engaged
condition. This condition will also be
indicated by the transmission overheating, although the stall speed will
remain as specified. Renew the converter.
Note - The torque converter is a
sealed unit without a drain plug. The
unit must not be dismantled. If a
converter is unsatisfactory in any
way then it must be replaced.
TEST No. 3
CONTROL PRESSURE AFTER CUT
BACK TEST
The transmission and engine

should be at their normal operating
temperature. Accelerate the vehicle
with full throttle. During acceleration the control pressure should be
suddenly reduced by modulator valve
operation to the specification shown
in Part 7-4.
BACK TOO LOW
Low pressure may be caused by

incorrect downshift cable adjustment
or faulty regulator valve operation.
IDLE PRESSURE TOO HIGH
Check the downshift cable adjustment for excessive pullout, sticking

or non-return of the downshift cam
through incorrect assembly of the
cam spring.
High pressure may also be caused
by sticking regulator valves.
TEST No. 2 -
STALL TEST
Start the engine to allow it to reach

its normal temperature. Apply both
the parking and service brakes while
making tests.
The stall test is made in D, 2,
1 or R at full throttle to check
engine performance, converter clutch
operation or installation and the
holding ability of the forward clutch,
reverse-high clutch and low-reverse
band and the gear train one-way
7-13
FIG. 12- Gauge set up for Pressure Test
7-14
TABLE 1 CONTROL PRESSURE CHECKS

IDLE PRESSURE (PSI)
STALL PRESSURE (PSI)
STALL SPEEDS (RPM)
200CID
58-66
200CID
200-250
200CID
1800-1900
250CID
58-70
250-CID
200-250
250CID
1850-1950
Note - Check pressures with

transmission fluid at normal operating temperature.
BACK TOO HIGH
High control pressure may be
caused by incorrect downshift cable
adjustments, faulty governor, modulator valve or regulator valve operation.
SHIFT POINT CHECKS
Check the light throttle upshifts in
D. The transmission should start in
first gear, shift to second, and then
shift to third within the shift points
specified in the specifications section
(Part 7-4).
While the transmission is in third
gear, depress the accelerator pedal
through the K.D. detent (to the
floor). The transmission should shift
from third to second or third to first,
depending on the car speed.
Check the closed throttle downshift from third to first by coasting
down from about 30 mph in third
gear. The shift should occur within
the limits specified in the specifications section.
With the transmission in third
gear and road speed over 30 mph, the
transmission should shift to second
gear when the selector lever is moved
from D to 2 or 1. The transmission
will downshift from second or third
to first gear when 1 is selected
below approximately 20 mph. This
check will determine if the governor pressure and shift control
valves are functioning properly.
During the shift check operation,
if the transmission does not shift
within specifications or certain gear
ranges cannot be obtained, refer to
the Diagnosis Guide to resolve the
problem.
ROAD TEST PROCEDURES
Test 1. Check that the starter only
operates with the selector in
"P" and "N" and that if a
reversing light is fitted it only
operates in "R".
Test 2. Apply the brakes and, with
the engine idling, select N-D,
N-1, N-2, N-R. Transmission
engagement should be felt in
each position selected.

Test 3. Check converter stall speed
with the transmission in "1"
after connecting a tachometer
to the engine and applying the
hand-brake. Allow the engine
and transmission to reach normal operating temperature and
then momentarily depress to
the kick-down position, noting
the tachometer reading. Do not
stall for more than ten seconds,
otherwise the transmission will
overheat. Check for slip or
clutch squawks. (Refer Table 1).
Test 4. With the transmission at
normal operating temperature,
select "D", release the brakes
and accelerate with minimum
throttle opening checking for
first to second and second to
third changes. At minimum
throttle openings the changes
may be difficult to detect.
Confirmation that the transmission is in third gear mar,
be obtained by selecting "2 '
when a third to second change
should be felt.
Test 5. (a) At 30 m.p.h. in third
gear, depress the accelerator to
the "kick-down" position where
the transmission should change
to second.
(b) At 15 m.p.h. in third gear,
depress the accelerator to full
throttle position. The transmission should change to first
gear.
Test 6. (a) Stop the car and re-start
using full throttle acceleration.
Check the change speeds for
first to seconel and second to
third: refer shift speed chart in
the specification section.
(b) At 40 mph in third gear,
release the accelerator and
select "1". Check for third to
second change and engine braking. Check that the second to
first change occurs below 20
p1ph and for engine braking.
Test 7. Stop the car with "1" still
engaged, release the brakes and,
using full throttle accelerate to
20 mph. Check for slip and

clutch squawk, and no upward
changes.
Test 8. Stop and select "R". Release
the. brakes and reverse using
full throttle if possible. Check
for slip or clutch squawk.
Test 9. Stop the car facing downhill
with the brakes and select "P".
Release the brakes and check
that the parking pawl holds the
car. Re-apply the brakes before
disengaging the parking pawl.
Repeat with the car facing uphill.
AIR PRESSURE CHECKS
A NO DRIVE condition can exist,
even with correct transmission fluid
pressure, because of inoperative
clutches, bands. The inoperative
units can be located through a series
of checks by substituting air pressure
for the fluid pressure to determine
the location of the malfunction.
When the selector lever is at D, 2,
or 1, a NO DRIVE condition may
be caused by an inoperative forward
clutch. A NO DRIVE condition at D
may be caused by an inoperative
forward clutch or one-way clutch.
When there is no drive in "1", the
difficulty could be caused by improper functioning of the forward
clutch and the one-way clutch. The
low-reverse band cannot be checked
in "1". If the low-reverse band or
clutch fails, the one-way clutch will
hold the gear train and operation will
be normal except that there will be
no engine braking. Failure to drive
in reverse range could be caused by a
malfunction ofthe reverse-high clutch
or low-reverse band. If the transmission fails to drive in reverse range
but operates normally in D, 1 or 2, it
indicates failure of the low and
reverse band.
To make the air pressure checks,
drain the transmission fluid, and then
remove the oil pan and the control
valve body assembly. The inoperative
units can be located by introducing
air pressure into the transmission
case passages leading to the clutches,
servos, and governor.
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION {Borg-Warner)
FII.ONT CLUTCH
II.EAII. CLUTCH
FII.ONT lAND
7-15
II.EAII. lAND
ONE WAY CLUTCH
TUII.IINE
SELECTOR LEVER
POSITION
-LOCK UP 1
-DRIVE 1
2,1 orO- LOCK UP 2

DRIVE 2
-DRIVE 3
-REVERSE
-PARK
FRONT
CLUTCH
REAR
CLUTCH
REAR
BAND
ONE WAY
CLUTCH
NEUTRAL
Power Flow Summary
e
FIG. 13 -
FRONT
BAND
=APPLIED
"'1"1
...
o-
I
"'
~
lr11'ELLER
CLUTCH PISTONS
..cr
STATOR
FRONT CLUTCH
CD
TURBINE
FRONT OIL
PUMP
a..
PINION CARRIER
CENTRE SUPPORT
PINIONS
GOVERNOR
<
ii"
s"
..i'
..
-t
Ill
~
Ill
3
iii.
Ill
)>
RING GEAR
FORWARD SUN GEAR
()
.....
::0
)>
REVERSE SUN GEAR
~
FRONT BRAKE
BAND
ONE WAY CLUTCH
DRIVE PLATE AND

STARTER RING GEAR
REAR BRAKE BAND
REAR CLUTCH
FRONT PUMP ADAPTOR
ONE WAY CLUTCH
TABLE 2- FAULT INVESTIGATION KEY
.,)>
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT FAULTS
;10
-t
Fluid level incorrect.
Incorrect engine idling speed.
Downshift valve cable incorrectly assembled or adjusted.
Incorrect front band adjustment.
Manual linkage incorrectly assembled or adjusted.
Incorrect rear band adjustment.
)>
--i
HYDRAULIC CONTROL FAULTS
MECHANICAL FAULTS
~)>
Oil tubes missing or not installed correctly.
Front clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty parts.
Sealing rings missing or broken.
Front clutch seized or plates distorted.
Valve body assembly screws missing or not correctly tightened.
Primary regulator valve sticking.
Rear clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty check valve

in piston.
;;o
)>
Secondary regulator valve sticking.
Rear clutch seized or plates distorted.
Throttle valve sticking.
Front band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.
Modulator valve sticking.
Rear band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.
One-way clutch slipping or incorrectly installed.
One-way clutch seized.
Input shaft broken.
Pump drive tangs on converter hub broken.
Pump worn.
Converter blading and/or one-way clutch failed.
--i
j
k
Governor valve sticking, leaking or incorrectly assembled.

Orifice control valve sticking.
First to second shift valve sticking.
Second to third shift valve sticking.
Second to third shift valve plunger sticking.
Converter ..out" check valve missing or sticking.
Pump check valve missing or sticking.
--i
z
~
~
0
-..,
OJ
(Q
~
01
..,
::J
(I)
..,
-':'4
.......,
.....
I
Ia,
TABLE 2-QUICK REFERENCE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
ABCDEFabc
d e f
g h
jklmnpNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
Selec:ting "R", "D", "I" or "2" foi'Dl Rest:

Harsh engagement .... .... .... .... ....
Delayed engagement ..... ...............
No engagement .. .. .. .. .. .. ... . ... . .. ..
. 2
I
I . 2 3
I . 2
Startla1 from Rest:

No drive forward .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
No. drive in reverse .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Box seizes in reverse .. .. ... . .. .. .. ..
Forward movement in neutral ... .
No second to third change .... .. .

Above normal change speeds .. .. . .. .
. .
. .
Upward Cban1es:
No first to second change .. .. .. .. .. ..
.
1
Upward Chaa1e Q..lltJ:

Slip on first to second change .. .. .. ..
Slip on second to third change ....
1 2 3
1 2 3
Harsh first to second change .. .. .. ..
1
1
. 3 2
. 2 7 6 s
I
.
. 2
.
.
.
.
.
.
4
4
2
2
Box seizes on second to third change
.
.
. . . . 1
Downward Chaa1e:
No second to first change .. .. .. .. .. ..
Box seizes on first to second change
. 3
. .
. 4
.
.
.
.
6 7 3
6 7 2
2 7 3
2 . 3
. 8 9
. 9 10
.
.
.
.
.
.
7
8
4
4
.
1
10
11
10
6
s 6
6
7
3
3
. .
. .
.
s
.
.
. 12
8 9
. 10
. 4
. . .
3 4
. 4 s 6
. 4
. 4
. s .
.
. s
. .
. . . . . . . . .
.
. . . . . .
. . . . . s .
. . . . . . . s . 6 .
. . . . . 9 . . . . .
.
. . . . 5 .
. . . . . . . 2
.
. .
. .
. . .
. .
. . .
. . .
. .
. .
7 8
3 4
. 2 3 4
. . . . . . .
. 3
. 2
. . . . . .
. 4
lei'
~
. . . . .s . . . . .
3 4
. . . 9 . . 8 . . . . . .
. . . 2
. . . . . . . .
. . . .
. 2
. . . .
. .
. .
. .
. .
.
.
.
. .
. 8 9 10
. 8 9 10
. 8 9 10
. s 6 .
. .
. . .
. .
Harsh second to third change .. .. ....
. . . . . 6 . 7
6 s .
.
. . 13 8 9 . 10 . .11 . . .
s 6
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .- . 7
. s
. 4 7
. 3 4
Below normal change speeds .. .. ....
. . . . . . .
....I
c>
()
-f
;,o
z>
~
0
TABLE 2-QUICK REFERENCE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
A BCDEFabc
No third to second change
d e f
g h
3
Involuntary high speed third to

second change
.. . . -
Above normal change speeds .
. 2
s
s
Below normal change speeds
jklmnpNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
6
6
. 4
. 2
. 3
. 4
7 8 3
Downward Chance Quality:
6 7 8 4
Slip on second to first change . .. . ..

Slip on third to second change .. . .. .
Harsh second to first change .. . ....
Harsh third to second change ... ... .
. 4
. 2
. . . .
. .
. 4
. .
. 2
. 2
.
.
. . .
. .
. . . . . .
. . .
. . . . .
6 7 8
.
.
. . . .
. . . . . .
. . . .
. .
. .
.,
J>
;g
-t
)>
c-1
0
)>
-1
()
-1
;;o
)>
(/")
Coatrol Pressure:
Low on idling
High on idling
Low at stall
High at stall
.. .
.. .. ... . ... .
. . .. . . . . . . .
..
. ... .
2 3
6 8
1 2
4
3
. 6 8 7 3
. 4 t
--
Stall Speed:
Below 1300 r.p.m . . ... .......... .. ...
Over 2000 r.p.m. .... .... .. .. .. .. ....
Overheating .... .... .... .... .... .... ....
4 9
2 3
. .
. 2
. 34S67
. 2 3
. .
.
. . . . . .
. . .
. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . .
.
7
. .
I~0
. . . lz
10
OJ
IQ
<0I
. . . I~..,
. . . . . . . . .
. . .1
. . . 8 9 10 11 12 . . .13
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
I!
I~
-o
7-20

If the servos do not operate, disassemble, clean and inspect them to
locate source of the trouble.
If the air pressure applied to any
clutch passage fails to operate the
clutch or operates more than one
clutch at once, remove, and with
air pressure, check fluid passages
in the case, pump output and
primary shaft to detect cross leakage
or obstruction. If the passages are
intact and clear, remove the clutch
assemblies and clean and inspect
the malfunctioning clutch to locate
the trouble.
FORWARD CLUTCH (Front)
Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch passage

(Fig. 15). A dull thud can be heard
when the clutch piston is applied. If
no noise is heard, place the finger tips
on the clutch and again apply air
pressure to the forward clutch passage. Movement of the piston can
be felt as the clutch is applied.
Caution: Forward and governor
passages are common, therefore if
there is excess air leakage from
governor, clutch operation may not
be audible.
GOVERNOR
Apply air pressure, to the control

pressure to governor passage and
listen for a sharp clicking or whistling
noise. The noise indicates governor
valve movement.
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH (Rear)
Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch passage (Fig. 15). A dull
thud indicates that the reverse-high
clutch piston has moved to the applied position. If no noise is heard,
place the finger tips on the clutch
drum and again apply air pressure to
detect movement of the piston.
INTERMEDIATE SERVO (Front)
Hold the air nozzle in the intermediate servo apply passage (Fig.
15). Operation of the servo is indicated by a tightening of the intermediate band around the drum.
EJ
FIG. 15 Checks
Air Pressure
Continue to apply air pres!>ure into

the intermediate servo apply passage, and introduce air pressure
into the intermediate servo release
passage. The intermediate servo
should release the band against the
appJy pressure.
LOW-REVERSE SERVO (Rear)
Apply air to the low reverse servo

apply passage (Fig. 15). The low reverse band should tighten around the
drum if the servo is operating properly. CAUTION: DO NOT APPLY AIR PRESSURE TO THE
SERVO UNLESS IT IS AS ASSEMBLED TO mE TRANSMISSION OR mE SERVO MAY
BE DAMAGED.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Table 2)
The Transmission Diagnosis

Guide lists the most common trouble symptoms that may be found in
the transmission, and gives the items
that should be checked to find the
cause of the trouble.
The items to check for each
trouble symptom are arranged in a
logical sequence which should be
followed for quickest results. The
letter symbols for each item are ex
plained in the Key to the Diagnosis
Guide.
If items A, B, C, D, E, and the
stall test have already been checked
during the preliminary checks and
adjustments, they need not be repeated when following the Diagnosis
Guide.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIR
PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING

FLUID LEVELS
Refer to Part 7-1, Section 2.

It is unnecessary to drain the converter and transmission as a normal
service item.
The transmission is air and water
cooled and therefore keep the underside free from mud, etc. otherwise
overheating may result.
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENTS
FLUID LEVEL
Incorrect transmission fluid level

can have the following effects, although they may be attributable to
other malfunctions:(a) No drive in "D", "1", "2"
or "R".
(b) Slip and squawk or judder
on full throttle starts in
"D", "1 ", "2" or "R".
(c) Overheating due to high

fluid level during sustained
high speeds.
ACCELERATOR LINKAGE AND
DOWN SHIFT VALVE CONTROL
CABLE
If the accelerator linkage is incorrectly adjusted preventing full

movement of the accelerator pedal,
the carburettor butterfly will not
open fully resulting in poor engine
performance and insufficient control
pressure in relation to accelerator
pedal movement.
It is therefore essential to ensure
that the throttle butterfly fully opens
as the accelerator linkage is also conneated to the automatic transmission
down shift valve by a cable, it is
essential for the linkage and cable to
be correctly adjusted, otherwise the
automatic transmission will not operate satisfactorily and premature failure may result.
Incorrect adjustment of the downshift valve control cable can have the
following results:(a) Excessive bump when "D"
or "R" is engaged.
(b) No drive in "D".
(c) Delayed or no first to
second change.
(d) Slip on first to second
change.
(e) Delayed or no second to
third change.
(f) Slip or engine "run-up" on
second to third change.
(g) Bumpy gear changes.
(h) Slip and squawk or judder
"D".
PART 7-1
(i) Gearbox changes down too
easily.
(j) Gearbox will not change
down.
(k) Slip and squawk or judder
on starting in "1 " or "2" .
(I) Slip and squawk or judder
on starting in "R".
(m) Slip but no judder on starting in " R".
(n) No drive in "R" .
The following method of linkage
adjustment is used for the setting of
the downshift valve cable.
1. Ensure engine and transmission
are at normal operating temperatures,
the carburettor choke is fully open
and carburettor correctly adjusted.
2. Adjust the rod " F", Fig. 17,
to give the correct pedal height.
Correct pedal height is 3. 65" to 4 .16"
measured between floor pan (mat in
position) at right angle to pan and a
point on the upper surface of the
pedal pad 2.24" from the lower edge.
Refer Fig. 17.
3. Disconnect the downshift inner
cable trunnion "A" (Fig. 17) from
the bell crank assembly with the bell
crank assembly set at idle. Adjust
trunnion "A" into hole "B" so that
the crimped stop on the kickdown
inner cable just touches to -h off the
outer cable without slack. Install the
clip.
NOTE: For safety sake transmission selection should
be in park position.
4. Check that at full throttle the
cable pull is 1. 75 inches minimum.
This dimension is the measured distance that the ferrule on the inner
that the choke is fully open.

2. Note that the position of the
downshift valve cam when the
throttle butterfly is closed, i.e., the
accelerator pedal is released. The
heel of the downshift valve cam
should lay against the large diameter
of the downshift valve, see "idling
position" Fig. 18, with all slack in
the inner cable taken up.
3. With the throttle butterfly fully
open, i.e., the accelerator pedal
pressed down fully in the kick-down
position, the constant radius lobe of
the cam should be in contact with the
downshift valve, as seen in "kickdown position", Fig. 18. The position of the cam can be varied by
altering the adjuster on the downshift valve cable.
4. Fit the sump "nipping" all the
sump bolts. Then, in one operation,
tighten each bolt to 10 ft. lbs.
5. Road test the vehicle to check
the shift speeds (see table), and
quality of change.
6. Crimp ferrule to inner cable so
that it is .010" off the outer cable end.
TABLE OF SHIFT SPEEDS
The speeds mentioned below are
to the nearest mph.
FIG. 16- Transmission

Fluid Dipstick- Typical
cable moves away from the end of
outer cover adjuster.
Service downshift cables differ
from original production installation
in that they are supplied with the
ferrule free to move and therefore
the following methods of adjustment
can be used with either type of cable.
Alternate Method
The downshift cable can also be
adjusted by determining the position
of the downshift valve cam in relation
to the accelerator pedal. This method
can be used when a new downshift
valve cable is being fitted and the
transmission sump is removed. The
method of adjustment is as follows:
1. Remove all the free play from
the accelerator linkage and ensure
ADJUST
SHIFT POINTS: (D iff. Ratio 3.23: 1)
ROO AS.S'v.
TO OITAIN
WHEN
SHAFT
7-21
fUll
Shift
Throttle
M.P.H.
Shift
Throttle
1-2 K.D
31-39
1- 2 Zero
8-10
2-3 K. D
53-61
2- 3 Ze ro
10-13
3-2 K. D
44 -54
3-1 Zero
4-8
3-1 K. D
19 -29
2-1 Zero
10-18
19UOI
THROTTLE
A$SY .
!97:151
TOUCHES THE FLOOI COVEtiNG
PEDAl HEIGHT SETTING
HOLE
lUIIIII(ATE PIVOTS
PU CHART
MARKED
CH ...SSIS lUIRICATION
AUTOMATIC
SEC
No
-457
K/0 CAllE
TRANSMISSION
ADJUSTMENT
WITH THE SHAFT ASSY 9919 SET

AT IOU. ADJUST TPitNION " A "
INTO HOlE
I
SO
THAT THE
CRIMPED STOP ON
KICKOOWN INNU ( ',C:E JUST TOUCHES

THE OUTEI CAllE- WITHOUT SLACK.
THEN
INSTAll CliP 9125
M.P.H.
FIG. 17- Linkage Adjustment 6 Cylinder Engines
7-22

the third detent. Ensure that the
selector lever is held against the stop
in the neutral position, and the transmission lever fully engaged in the
neutral detent position.
DOWNSHIFT VALVE
CABLE I
IDLING
P'OSITION
KICK-DOWN
P'OSITION
FIG. 18- Downshift Valve

Cable Adjustment
MANUAL LINKAGE
Incorrect manual linkage adjustment can result in the following:(a) No drive in "D".
(b) Slip and squawk or judder
"D".
(c) No manual third to second
change.
(d) Slip and squawk or judder
on starts in "1" or "2".
(e) Slip and squawk or judder
on starts in "R".
(f) No drive in "R".
(g) No parking pawl engagement.
(h) Front clutch burning out.
It should be noted that incorrect
manual linkage adjustment is not the
only cause of the above conditions.
MANUAL LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT
1. Position transmission selector

lever in neutral, to ensure correct
engagement it may be necessary to
loosen clamp nut on steering column
or floor shift lever to selector rod and
move shift lever on transmission to
2. With the transmission selector

and the steering column or floor shift
selector lever still in "Neutral" position, tighten the selector rod clamp
nut.
3. With test lamp check that when
gear selection is made with the steering column or floor shift selector
lever the lamp will only light in
"Neutral" and "Park" positions. If
the test lamp does not light up in
these positions or lights up in all
selector positions it will be necessary
to readjust linkage or replace switch.
SLOW-RUNNING ADJUSTMENT
To obtain the best slow-running

adjustment, the engine should be
tuned against a vacuum gauge connected to the inlet manifold. This
connection can be made by removing
the blanking plug in the inlet manifold and fitting the appropriate
adaptor and gauge.
Before commencing adjustment,
check the air cleaner to ensure that
the element is clean and in a serviceable condition.
Run the engine, so allowing it to
warm up. To adjust the slow-running, screw in the slow-running adjustment screw (see Fig. 19) until a
fast idling speed is obtained, then
turn the volume control screw,
Fig. 19, either clockwise or anticlockwise to obtain the maximum
vacuum reading. Readjust the idling
speed as necessary and continue the
adjustment until the maximum possible vacuum reading is obtained with
a reasonable slow-running speed. It
may be necessary to adjust the

ignition setting.
When a suitable vacuum gauge is
not available, the engine should be
warmed up and the slow-running
adjustment screw turned clockwise
so that the engine is running at a
fast idling speed. Screw the volume
control screw in or out until the
engine runs evenly. Readjust the
slow-running adjustment screw if the
engine is running too fast, followed
by a further readjustment of the
volume control screw.
These operations should be repeated until the idling speed is
satisfactory and, if necessary, followed by a re-adjustment to the
ignition setting.
FRONT BRAKE BAND
The front brake band is used

in second to hold the reverse sun
gear stationary and therefore provides the second gear ratio. Incorrect front brake band adjustment
has the following effects:(a) Slip on first to second
change.
(b) No first to second change.
(c) Delayed or no second to
third change.
(d) Slip on third to second
"kick-down" change.
Remove the fifteen bolts and
lockwashers securing the transmission oil pan and detach the oil pan
and gasket. Slacken the adjusting
screw locknut, move the servo lever
outwards and place a 0.25 in. gauge
between the servo piston pin and
the adjusting screw (see Fig. 20).
Tighten the adjusting screw to a
torque of 10 in. lbs., tighten the
locknut and then remove the gauge
block. Ensure that the mating
faces are clean and refit the oil
pan with a new gasket. Tighten
the fifteen bolts in their lock
washers to a torque of 8 to 10
ft. lbs.
REAR BRAKE BAND
The rear brake band is employed

in "1" and "R" to hold the pinion
carrier stationary. Incorrect rear
brake band adjustment can have the
following results:(a) No drive in " R" and no
engine braking in " 1" .
FIG. 19 - Slow Running

Adjustment Screws
FIG. 20 - Front Band

Adjustment
To adjust this band, slacken the

adjusting screw locknut on the righthand side of the transmission case
and then tighten the adjusting screw
to a torque of 10 ft. lbs. (Fig. 21 ).
PART 7-1
7-23
FIG. 21 -Typical Rear Band Adjustment

Slacken the adjusting screw
and tighten the locknut.
turn
STARTER INHIBITOR SWITCH

This particular component is a
safety device to ensure that the
engine will only start in "Park" or
"Neutral" selector positions. If the
engine will not start in the "P" or
"N" selector positions, or the starter
motor operates in all selector positions, then the starter inhibitor
switch may require replacement.
Check the manual linkage adjustment and wiring connections and
loom for faults.
If correction is not obtained the
switch must be replaced.
TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN

AND REFILL
Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate
periodic automatic transmission fluid
changes.
If a major failure, such as a clutch,
band, bearing, etc., has occurred
within the transmission, it will have
to be removed for service. At this
time the converter must be thoroughly flushed to remove all dirt.
When filling a dry transmissioQ
and converter, install 6 quarts of
fluid. Start the engine, shift the selector lever as in Step 5 below, and
check and add fluid as necessary.
Following is the procedure for
partial drain and refill due to minor
repairs.

transmission. Loosen and remove
the drain plug and drain the fluid.

Remove and thoroughly clean the
oil pan and screen. Discard the oil
pan gasket.
l. Place a new gasket on the oil
pan, and install the screen and pan
oc the transmission.
3. Add three quarts of fluid to the
transmission through the filler tube.
4. Run the engine at idle speed for
about two minutes. Check the fluid
level, and add fluid if necessary. Run
the engine at fast idle speed (about
1200 rpm) until it reaches its normal operating temperature. Do not
race the encine.
all the positions, place it at P, and
check the fluid level. If necessary,
add enough fluid to the transmission
to raise the level to the F (Full)
mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill
the transmission.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING

PROCEDURE
When a clutch or band failure or
other internal trouble has occurred
in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band material that may have been carried into
the cooler should be removed from
the system by flushing the cooler
and lines before the transmission is
put back into service. In no case
should an automatic transmission
having a clutch or band failure or
other internal trouble resulting in
fluid contamination, be put back into
service without first flushing the
transmis~ion oil cooler.
1. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and
converter assembly in the car, Do

Not Connect the Cooler Return Une
to the Transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P
(park) position and connect the
cooler inlet (converter out) line to
the transmission. Place a pan under
the end of the cooler return line that
will hold transmission fluid. Do Not
Start the Engine.
2. Install 8 quarts of automatic
transmission fluid meeting Ford
Specification.
3. Start the engine and allow it
to run at normal idle speed with
the selector lever in P, park position.
4. Allow
approximately
two
quarts of transmission fluid to drain
into the pan placed under the end
of the cooler return line.
S. If the fluid does not run clean
after draining two quarts of it
through the cooler, shut off the engine and add two additional quarts
of transmission fluid.
6. Repeat steps 3 through 4 until
the transmission fluid flowing out
of the cooler return line is clean.
7. If there is no fluid flow or the
fluid does not flow freely, shut off
the engine and disconnect both
cooler lines from the transmission
and cooler.
8. Use an air hose with not more
than I 00 psi air pressure to reverse
flush the cooler lines and the cooler.
After reverse flushing, connect both
lines at the cooler and the cooler
inlet line (converter out) to the
transmission.
9. Start the engine and check
the fluid flow . If the transmission
7-24
fluid flows freely, proceed with steps

3 through 5 If there is no fluid flow,
check for pinched cooler lines. If
the flow is restricted, replace cooler
lines and/or the radiator.
10. Shut off the engine, and connect the cooler return line to the
transmission. Check the transmission
fluid level as indicated under heading Transmission Fluid Level Check.
Refer to Part 7- 1, Page 7-11.
Add or remove transmission fluid as
required until the proper fluid level
is obtained on the dipstick. DO NOT
OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.
11. Do not attempt to correct
cooler or cooler line leaks by closing
off the lines.
OIL COOLER TUBE
REPLACEMENT
When fluid leakage is found at

the oil cooler, the entire radiator
must be replaced. The oil cooler
cannot be removed from the radla
tor for replacement.
When one or more of the fluid
cooler steel tubes must be replaced,
each replacement tube must be fabricated from the same size steel tubing
as the original line.
Using the old tube as a guide,
bend the new tube as required . Add
the necessary fittings, and install the
tube.
Mter the fittings have been

tightened, add fluid as needed and
check for fluid leaks. (Replacement
tubing must be new and clean).
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE
COLUMN SHIFT
See Group 3, Page 3-.37.
CONSOLE SHIFT
Selector Lever Removal and Replacement.
1. Raise the vehicle and remove
the manual lever control rod (Fig. 23).
2. Lower the vehicle, remove the
selector lever handle attaching screw
and remove the handle (Fig. 2~).
3. Remove the two console attaching screws at the front of the console
and the four screws in the glovebox
and remove the console and gear lever
slide assembly.
4. Detach the dial indicator light.
5. The gear lever slide assembly,
which incorporates the dial, may be
detached from the console by removing the four attaching screws.
6. Remove the selector housing
and lever assembly attaching bolts
and remove the selector lever and
housing.
7. Remove the selector lever to
housing attaching nut. Remove the
lever from the housing.
8. Install the selector lever in the
housing and install the attaching nut.
Torque the nut to 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
9. Install the selector lever handle.
10. Position the selector as shown
in Fig. 22. With a feeler gauge check
the clearance between the detent
pawl and plate. The clearance should
be 0.005 to 0.010 inches. If necessary adjust the height of the detent
pawl as shown in Fig. 22.
11. Remove the handle from the
selector lever.
12. Install the selector lever housing and lever assembly as shown in
Fig. 23. Torque the attaching screws
to 4-6 lbs. it.
FIG. 22- Selector Level Detent Pawl Adjustment
13. Install the gear lever slide and

dial assembly on the console. Attach
the indicator light.
14. Refit the console ensuring that
the dial locating peg is correctly
located in the bracket on the selector
lever housing.
15. Install the selector lever handle
and tighten the attaching screw.
16. Position the selector lever in
the "N" position.
17. Raise the vehicle. Install the
transmission manual lever rod. With
the transmission in neutral and the
selector lever against the neutral stop
tighten the selector lever to manual
lever rod nut.
18. Lower the vehicle and check
the transmission operation in each
selector lever detent position.
PART 7-1
7-25
SEC
FIG. 23 -Selector Change Linkage- Floor Shift
EJ
CLEANING
TRANSMISSION
Clean aH parts with suitable solvent and use moisture-free air to dry
off all parts and clean out the various
fluid passages.
The composidon dutch plates
and bands should not be cleaned in
a vapor degreaser or with any type
of detergent soludon. To clean
these p811s, wipe them oft' with a
lint-free cloth. New clutch plates
and bands should be soaked in transmission fluid for fifteen minutes before they are assembled.
If there is reason to believe that
the converter has an excessive
amount of foreign material in it, a
service replacement unit should be
installed.
FIG. 24 - Inhibitor Switch
7-26
IJ
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car and remove the

two converter cover attaching bolts
at the lower front side of the converter housing. Remove the cover.
2. Remove the drive shaft and
install the extension housing seal replacer tool in the extension housing.
3. Disconnect the downshift cable
from the bell crank assembly.
4. Remove the two extension
housing to crossmember bolts.
6. Remove the parking brake cable
from the equalizer lever.
7. Remove the drain plug from
the transmission sump and drain
the fluid. This will not drain the
converter and therefore care should
be taken when removing the converter from the transmission since
fluid will spill from the converter.
Replace the drain plug.
8. Disconnect the fluid cooler
lines from the transmission case. Remove the filler tube from the case.
9. Remove the manual linkage
rod from the transmission control
lever.
10. Disconnect the neutral ~tart
switch wires.
11. Remove the starter cable. Re-
move the starter attaching bolts and

remove the starter from the converter housing.
12. Remove the converter-toflywheel attaching bolts.
13. Position the transmission jack
to support the transmission and
secure the transmission to the jack
with a safety chain.
14. Remove the crossmember and
mounting pad attaching bolts and
lower the crossmember.
15. Remove the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Lower the transmission and converter
assembly and remove it from under
the car.
INSTALLATION
1. With the converter properly

installed, place the transmission on
the jack. Secure the transmission to
the jack with the safety chain.
2. Raise the transmission into
position and install the converter
housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
Torque the bolts to specification.
Remove the safety chain from the
transmission.
3. Position the crossmember and
mounting pad into position and install the attaching bolts. Torque the
4. Lower the transmission and install the extension housing and cross
member attaching bolts. Torque the
5. Install the four flywheel-to-converter attaching nuts. Torque the
nuts to specification.
6. Remove the transmission jack.
7. Install the transmission fluid
filler tube. Connect the fluid cooling
lines to the transmission case.
8. Connect the neutral start
switch wires to their respective
connectors.
9. Connect the linkage rod to the
transmission manual control lever.
. 11. Install and adjust the parking
brake cable at the equalizer lever.
12. Install the converter housing
cover and torque the attaching bolts
to specification.
13. Install the starter and torque
the bolts to specification. Connect
the starter cable.
14. Install the drive shaft. Torque
the companion flange U-bolt nuts
to specification.
15. Lower the car and fill the
transmission with fluid. Adjust the
manual and kickdown linkage.
TO REMOVE THE VALVE

BODIES ASSEMBLY.
1. Jack up the car and fit stands.
2. Remove the transmission
drain plug to drain the transmission fluid, bearing in mi.nd that
the fluid will be extremely hot if
the transmission has just been used.
3. To remove the sump and gasket. unscrew the 15 bolts and lockwashers around the sump flange.
4. Remove the four fluid transfer pipes. which are pushed into
the valve bodies assembly and the
body of the servos (Fig. 25) and
are held in position by the sump.
To remove these pipes use a screwdriver with a protected blade, to
ensure that the pipe is not damaged,
and prise the pipes out.
5. Remove the valve bodies assembly. Disconnect the cable from
the downshift cam and remove
three bolts, two longer bolts passing through the rear of valve bodies
assembly and the shorter bolt
situated to the rear of the filter,

securing the valve bodies assembly
(Fig. 25). Draw the valve bodies
assembly down evenly to avoid
distorting the three pipes between
the valve bodies and the front
pump.
TO DISMANTLE THE VALVE

BODIES.
To facilitate fittin~ valves, etc.
it is advisable to dismantle the
assembly on a clean steel bench
covered with clean white paper.
Also. lay out the parts as they are
removed, in order.
1. Withdraw the manual control
valve. Unscrew two bolts securing the downshift cam bracket to
the valve body and remove the
bracket and downshift cam assembly.
When the downshift cam
and throttle valve stop have been
removed the downshift and throttle
valves with their springs may be
withdrawn (Fig. 26).
2. Remove the filter. The filter
is secured by four short screws,

spring washers and flat washers.
3. Remove the three screws
securing the primary and secondary regulator valves retainer plate
and remove the retainer plate. Care
should be taken when removing
the three screws since the two
regulator valve springs are retained
by the plate. With the plate removed withdraw the primary regulator valve spring, sleeve and
valve. Remove the secondary regulator valve spring and valve
(Fig. 26).
4. To separate the upper and
lower valve bodies remove the six
cheese-head screws (one long and
five short) from the lower valve
body and the two cheese-head
screws from the upper valve body.
5. The upper valve body (Fig. 27)
has two end plates, each secured by
three cheese-headed screws. Remove . these retainer plates followed by the 2-3 valve, spring,
plunger and 1-2 valve from the
PART 7-1
rear of the body. From the front
of the body withdraw the 1-2 valve
spring and plunger.
6. Remove the oil tube collector
by unscrewing the eight cheesehead screws. Keeping the separator plate uppermost, remove two
screws situated in the rear filter
body and remove the governor line
plate. The separator plate can
now be removed, carefully, revealing the 3-2 dump valve pump, check
valve and downshift valve keep plate
in the lower valve body (Fig. 26).
Remove these items.
7. The servo orifice control valve
is retained by a keep plate and the
modulator valve by a small dowel
pin. Remove the keep plate and
dowel pin then remove both valves
and springs (see Fig. 27).
8. Remove the keep plate from
the range control valve body. Remove the retaining plug and range
control valve (Fig. 26).
To avoid confusiOn each component of the valve bodies assembly should be washed separately
in clean industrial solvent, carefully
inspected and replaced in the order
in which they were removed. Before installing parts they should be
lubricated with automatic transmission fluid .
REASSEMBLING THE VALVE
BODIES
1. Refit the modulator valve spring,
valve plunger, valve and plug.
Secure the plug with the dowel.
Refit the servo orifice control valve
and spring, locating the spring
inside the counterbore in the end
of the valve and retain with the
keep plate (Fig. 27).
2. Referring to Fig. 27 reposition
the downshift valve keep plate,
3-2 dump valve spring and ball, and
disc type valve.
3. Carefully reposition the separator plate on top of the lower
valve body, making sure that the
check valve is not displaced and
particularly that the 3-2 dump valve
ball is centrally located in the
separator plate hole. Reposition the
governor line plate and secure with.
two screws from beneath in the
rear of the valve bodies assembly.
Before tightening these screws to
20 to 30 in. lbs., make sure that the
dump valve is positioned correctly.
4. Fit the regulator valves (Fig.
26). Fit the primary regulator valve,
sleeve and spring in the lower
valve body. Then, replace secondary regulator valve, followed by its
FIG. 25 -
Transfer Pipes
LOWER VALVE B \
Q.-.OUMP VALVE ,BALL
SERVO ORIF-ICE CONTROL VALVE
KEEP PLATE
SERVO OR IF\ CE CONTROL VALVE
MANUAL CONTROL
VALVE
I
~~'"'"""'
FIG. 26- Exploded View of Lower Valve Body and Valves
7-27
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-28
1ST-2ND SHIFT VALVE J...
lND-JRD PLUNGER
UPPER VALVE BODY
FIG. 27- Exploded View of Upper Valve

Body and Valves
. ~
.
FIG. 28- Exploded View of G.T.A. Control

Valve and Body
/ ~
PART 7-1
spring. Fit the retainer plate and
secure with three screws.
5. Fit the 1-2, 2-3 valves (Fig.
28). Reposition the 1-2 spring,
plunger and valve in the upper
valve body. Also, refit the 2-3
plunger, 'spring and valve in
the upper valve body. These
valves, springs and plungers are
of different diameter and cannot
be confused. Refit and secure
the retainer plates using three
screws and spring washers for each.
Torque to 20 to 30 in. lbs. Here,
again, the retainer plates arc dissimilar and cannot be confused.
Fit the range control valve and
retaining plug to the range control
body then fit the keep plate (Fig. 26).
6. Reposition the upper valve body
and the range control valve body on
the separator plate and secure with
eight screws, tightening them to a
torque of 20 to 30 in. lbs. (Fig. 30).
7. Replace the manual control
valve, downshift and throttle valves
(Fig. 26). The downshift and throttle
valve spring is interposed between
the two valves, locating in the
counter bore in the end of the downshift valve.
8. Reposition the downshift cam
and bracket with the cam in contact
with the downshift valve and secure
with two bolts. Tighten to 20 or
30 in. lbs.
9. Refit the oil tube collector and
secure with eight screws. Tighten
the screws to a torque of 20 to
30 in. lbs.
10. Refit the oil strainer ensuring
that it is fiat to -h in. concave and is
free from kinks.
TO REFIT THE VALVE
BODIES ASSEMBLY
1. If removed, replace the oil
pick-up tubes in the pump housing
(Fig. 30). The inner pair of tubes
are smaller in diameter than the
other two. One is a short straight
tube, the other is bent into several
planes with one end in the pump
housing and the other in the transmission case. The outer tubes are
of different diameters and lengths
and cannot be confused or incorrectly fitted .
2. Position the valve bodies assembly, engaging the oil tubes in
the oil tube collector and making
sure the manual control valve is
engaged with the peg on the operating lever. Secure the assembly
with three bolts, washers and spring
washers. The two longer bolts

pass through the rear of the valve
bodies assembly and the shor!l.:r
bolt is positioned centrally just to
the rear of the filter (Fig. 26).
3. Reconnect the downshift valve
cable to the cam and check its
adjustment,
4. Fit the fluid transfer pipes
(Fig. 30). These pipes are a push
fit and are held in position by the
sump, when fitted. Each tube is
different in length and shape, and
is shaped in such a way that it
cannot be refitted incorrectly.
5. The front band should be
adjusted as previously described.
6. Refit the sump. Ensure that
the lower face of the transmission
and the sump flange are perfectly
clean. Fit a new gasket and replace the sump. Secure with fifteen bolts and spring washers,
tightening them evenly to a torque
of 8 to 10 ft. lbs.
7. Check the rear band adjust-
ment.
FIG. 29 - Tightening
Valve Body Screws
8. Refill the transmission. Do not
add the quantity of oil required to
completely fill an empty transmission, since when the drain plug was
removed, the fluid from the converter was not drained. Check the level
when the gearbox is at normal
operating temperature.
FIG. 30- Location of Oil

Tubes
7-29
TO DISMANTI..E
TRANSMISSION
1. Remove the convertor from
the convertor housing, taking care
to ensure that the pumo driving
lugs are not damaged. Note: The
torque convertor is still filled with
fluid and therefore precautions
should be taken to avoid spillage.
2. Remove the six bolts and
spring washers securing the convertor housing to the transmission
case and remove the convertor
housing.
3. To remove the sump unscrew
the fifteen bolts and spring washers
around the sumo flange and remove
the sump together with its gasket.
Remove the fovr fluid transfer pipes
(Fig. 25), by prising out with the
protected blade of a screwdriver.
4. Withdraw the valve bodies
assemblv. Disconnect the downshift valve cable from the cam.
Remove the two rear bolts holding rear end of valve bodies assembly and the bolt just to the rear
of the pump filter (Fig. 25) to remove
the valve bodies assembly, taking
care to draw this off evenly to
avoid damage to the pump tubes.
s; Withdraw the four oil tubes
from the pump adaotor. It will
be seen that the outside pair are of
unequal diameter and therefore
cannot be fitted incorrectly. The
inner pair are the same diameter,
the short straight one will pull out.
The long bent one may require the
adaptor on the outside of the transmission case being loosened or removed before this tube can be
removed.
6. Remove the four bolts and
spring washers securing the extension housing to the transmission
and carefully withdraw the extension housing rearward .
7. The speedometer driving gear
is retained in one direction by a
circlip and driven and retained in
the other direction by a ball. Expand the circlip and remove. Remove the speedometer driving gear
and ball.
8. Before removing the governor
it should be noted that the small
rectangular plate secured by two
countersunk screws should face
rearwards . The drive for the governor is transmitted through a ball
and, having removed the circlio
and drawn the governor rearwards,

care should be taken not to lose the
ball.
FIG. 31 -Checking Gear

Train End-Float
9. The rear adaptor is retained
by five bolts and spring washers
around the casing. Remove these
and carefully withdraw the adaptor
body and plate. This will reveal
three sealing rings around the output shaft. T hese three rings are
cast iron and should be treated
carefully during removal to prevent
damage.
10. The two servos are each
sec ured by two bolts and spring
washers an d removal of these bolts
will enable the servos to be withdrawn. When removing the servos
ensu re tha t the two operating struts,
which transmit movement from the
se rvos to the bands, do not fall
out, otherwise they may be lost or
damaged.
11. Check gear train end float.

Using a screwdriver between the
transmission case and the front of
the front clutch, lever the front
clutch assembly as far rearwards
as possible to take up any end
float. Set up an indicator dial
gauge as shown (Fig. 31) and set
gauge to zero. Make sure the
front clutch is as far rearwards as
possible then lever the front clutch
assembly forward, read the gauge
to determine the end float and
record.
If this is not between .010-.030

inches the front thrust washer
mtJst be replaced with one of a
different thickness on reassembly,
see specifications for thrust washer
dimensions.
12. Withdraw the pump assembly, gasket and thrust washer a~ter
removing the six bolts and spnng
washers around the pump.
13. Withdraw the input shaft

and front clutch assembly (Fig. 32).
Two thrust washers are positioned
between the front and rear clutches,
the phosphor bronze washer bearing against the ground rear face of
the front clutch, and the steel
wasner, which has two flats on the
internal diameter, locating on the
rear clutch projection.
14. Withdraw the rear clutch and

sun gears (Fig. 33). The needle
thrust race and washer are positioned on the rear of the front sun
gear shaft and sliould be removed.
Disengage the front band from the
stop in the case, tilt slightly and
remove.
r
FIG. 32 - Removing Front
Clutch and Input Shaft
Assembly
side of the case in line with the

centre support and positioned 1200
either side of the rear servo front
securing screw. Mark the centre
support in relation to the case, and
if necessary, tap the end of the output shaft with a hide mallet. This
will drive the centre support forward so that it can be removed.
16. Withdraw the planet gear assembly. A steel washer and needle
thrust washer is positioned between
the planet gear assembly and the
output shaft.
IS. Remove the centre support.

Unscrew the two centre support
securing screws and lockwashers.
These screws are around the out-
FIG. 33 - Removing Rear

Clutch and Sun Gears
17. Disengage the rear band
from the stop and remove.
18. Extract the one-way clutch
from the outer race and then remove the outer race which is
secured by a circlip in the planet
gear assembly (Fig. 44).
19. Withdraw the output shaft
and thrust washer. If necessary,
separate the output shaft from
the ring gear by removing the circlip which retains them together.
20. Unscrew the inhibitor switch
screws and remove the inhibitor
switch. Unscrew the downshift valve
cable retainer and remove the cable.
Drive out the tension pin securing the
manual valve operating lever to the
cross-shaft and draw to one side.
Care should be taken not to lose the
detent ball and spring when removing this lever.
.
.
21. Drive out the tension pm
securing the cross-shaft locating
collar. The cross-shaft may now be
withdrawn by tapping the end to
which the manual linkage was previously attached. This will enable the
spring, inhibitor switch link, parking
pawl linkage, collar and welsh plug
to be removed.
PART 7-1
22. Withdraw the parking pawl

actuating mechanism (Fig. 34) after
removing the spring clip and
washer. Careful note should be
made of the manner in which the
spring is fitted before removal since
when removed the assembly will
disengage.
23. From mtside the case drive
out the tension pin retaining one
parking pawl pivot pin and drive
out the pivot pin from inside the
case. The second pivot pin is not
secured but is retained by a lug on
the extension housing. If the case
is upended and gently tapped this
pin will fall out and the parking
pawl can be removed.
FIG. 34- Manual Valve

Lever
14. Remove the locknut from the
rear band adjuster and screw the
adjuster screw into the case to remove iL
THE SUB-ASSEMBLIES
FRONT PUMP
TO DISMANTLE:
ing and driven gears in the pump

body, noting the marks made when
dismantling, see above, and lightly
lubricate with transmission fluid.
Fit a new sealing ring around the
periphery of the pump body.
Position the pump body on the
pump adaptor, lining up the hole
in the pump body segment with the
corresponding hole in the pump
adaptor. Secure the pump body to
the pump adaptor with five bolts,
and lockwashers and one cheesehead screw and lockwasher.
FRONT CLUTCH AND INPUT

SHAFT ASSEMBLY
To Dismantle:
With the aid of a screwdriver
remove the circlip retaining the input shaft to the clutch cylinder.
Then withdraw the input shaft and
thrust washer. Remove the clutch
plates, noting their positions. An
internally toothed plate should be
the first plate viewed when the input shaft is removed and the thick
externally splined pressure plate
the last, the plates alternating. Remove the clutch inner hub which
will reveal a further large circlip
retaining the diaphragm spring and
piston. Remove this circlip and
spring. To remove the piston, it is
neces~ary to blank off one end of
the clutch cylinder piston guide
and apply air pressure, via a suitable adaptor. at the other end of
the guide. The outer face of the
pistl'n has a steel ring. pressed into
it.
Remove the rubber sealing
ring from the outer periphery of the
Remove the five bolts, one

cheese-head screw and spring
washer to separate the pump body
from the pump adaptor. Mark
both inner and outer gears to ensure that when reassembled to gear
faces are replaced in the same position as removed . Remove both
gears. Remove the sealing ring
from around the periphery of the
pump body (Fig. 36). Carefully
clean and inspect each part for
signs of wear, paying particular
attention to the whitt: metal bearings in the pump body, adaptor and
driving gear. If necessary, remove
the seal from the pump body.
TO REASSEMBLE:
If removed, replace the seal in
the pump body. Replace the driv-
FIG. 35 - RefiHing Front

Clutch Piston
7-31
piston and also the seal from the

piston guide in the clutch cylinder.
To Reassemble (Fig. 37)

Thoroughly clean and inspect
all parts and lubricate with transmission fluid prior to assembly.
Replace the rubber seals around
the periphery of the piston and the
piston guide. Refit the piston, using Tool No. B.W. 42 (Fig. 36) ensuring that the steel pressure ring
on the outer face of the piston is
correctly seated. Reposition the
spring with the fingers resting on
the steel pressure ring of the piston
and secure with the large circlip.
Refit the thick externally splined
pressure plate, with the plain face
outwards and alternatively internally and externally splined clutch
plate, ending with the internally
splined plate. The front clutch
externally toothed plates are flat,
whereas those for the rear clutch
are slightly dished. Replace the
central hub and thrust washer.
Reposition the input shaft and secure with a large circlip.
REAR CLUTCH AND FORWARD

SUN GEAR ASSEMBLY
To Dismantle:
Carefully remove the three scaling rings, two from the front end
and one from the rear end of the
forward sun gear shaft. Withdraw
the forward sun gear shaft from
Rethe rear clutch assembly.
move the large circlip retaining the
clutch plates, with the aid of a
Remove the thick
screwdriver.
externally splined spacer plate and
the alternative internally and externally splined plates. Locate the
clutch spring compressor on the
clutch spring retaining plate so that
the ends of the circlip are opposite
the latge "window" in the tool
(Fig. 38). Place the assembly in a
press and press down onto the tool
to compress the spring. Using circlip pliers, remove the circlip and
release the press until the spring is
fully released and then remove
from the press. Remove the spring
and spring seat. To remove the
piston, apply air pressure to the
hole in the groove next to the sealing ring closest to the front drum.
Remove the rubber sealing rings
from around the periphery of the
7-32
TORQUE CONVERTER
SUPPORT
(?)OUTLET
SEALING RING
FIG. 36- Pump

piston and piston guide . Carefully
remove the three sealing rings from
the reverse sun gear shaft.
bly, so sandwiching the thrust race

between the rear face of the reverse sun gear and the front face
of the forward sun gear. Replace
the three sealing rings in the appropriate grooves. Replace the
needle thrust race on the rear of
the forward sun gear shaft. Fit
the steel washer to the shaft, after
the thrust race, with the lip towards
the rear.
To Reassemble:
Thoroughly clean and inspect all
parts, paying particular attention
to the needle race which supports
the forward sun gear shaft. Replace the rubber seals around the
periphery of the piston and piston
guide. Position the piston, using
Tool No. B.W. 41 (Fig. 39), spring
and spring seat, fit the clutch spring
compressor tool and, using a press,
compress the spring until the circlip groove on the piston guide is
uncovered . Refit the circlip, ensuring that it is seated correctly in
the groove. Release the press and
remove the clutch spring compressor. Rerlace the clutch plates,
externall y splined plate first. and
then alternating internally and externally splined plates, ending with
the thick externally splincd spacer
plate (Fig. 40). Note that the outer
splined plates for the rear clutch
are dished, whereas the front clutch
plates are flat. These dished plates
can be fitted so that the dishing is
s:::: : ~
CIRCLIP
~
~~
~ : ;I
~
~ 1
"-!_../
r!:
FIG. 37- Refitting Front

Clutch Plates
either towards or away from the
piston, but they must all face the
same way. Secure the clutch
plates with the large circlip. Slide
one .needle thrust race onto the
forward end of the forward sun
gear shaft and seat on the front
face of the forward sun gear. Pass
the' forward sun gear shaft through
the centre of the rear clutch assem-
CLUTCH
SPRING
COMPRE SS OR
TOOL
NO. BW. l7A
FIG. 38 - Dismantling
Rear Clutch
PART 7-1
FRONT SERVO
To Dismantle:
Depress the servo pis~on and
pistoh guide assembly, to overcome spring pressure, and remove
the circlip which retains these
parts (Fig. 41). The piston spring
will then push the piston and its
guide from the servo housing. Withdraw the piston from the guide and
extract the spring. Remove the
square section sealin~ ring from ~he
guide and the two c1rcular sectiOn
sealing rings from the piston.
To remove the operating lever
from the housing it is necessary to
withdraw the lever's pivot which
may be retained by a pin in the
servo housing. This pin can ~e
tapped out with the aid of an i m.
diameter drift.
To Reassemble:
If the operating lever has been
removed from the servo housing it
should be refitted so that the adjusting screw will pass thro~gh th.e
hole in the end of the housmg. F1t
the pivot through the housing and
operating lever, ensuring that !he
retaining pin holes in the housmg
and pivot are in line. Fit the retaining pin .
Fit the two circular section sealing rings to the piston and the
square section scaling ring to the
piston guide . Insert the piston into
the guid~ so that the nanges of the
piston and guide ab~t. . Place t~e
piston retracting sprmg m the P!Ston and insert the assembly, p1s-
ton first, into the housing. Retain

with the circlip after depressing the
piston guide to overcome spring
pressure.
REAR SERVO
To Dismantle:
To withdraw the servo piston it
is unnecessary to remove the operating lever, the pivot of which is
secured in the housing. Depress
the straight arm of the spring and
disengage from the lug cast in the
side of the servo body. Remove the
!'.pring, withdraw the piston (see
(Fig. 42).
To Reassemble:
If removed, fit the sealing ring
to the piston. Hold the operating
lever away from the piston bore
and insert the piston spigot into the
conical seat of the operating lever.
It is then possible to manoeuvre the
piston into the housing (Fig. 38). Fit
the spring to pivot pin engaging the
bent arm with the servo lever and
depress the straight spring arm and
engage with the lug on the servo
body.
GOVERNOR
To Dismantle:
To separate the two parts of the
governor body remove the two
cheese-headed screws, together
with their spring washers. The
governor valve and spring can be
removed from the governor' weight
in one part of the body by re~ov
ing the governor spnng retamer
which pa~tially encircles the governor weight stem (Fig. 43). If necessary, remove the cover plate whiclt
is retained by two screws to that
part of the body which accommodates the governor weight.
To Reassemble:
If the cover plate has been re-
FIG. 39 - Fitting Rear

Clutch Piston
7-33
moved, refit and retain with the two

screws. Pass the stem of the governor weight through the body
from the top, slide the valve, smaller diameter first, over the governor weights stem, followed by the
spring and sec~re with the . retainer, dished s1de to the sprmg.
After cleaning the mating faces,
secure the two parts of the g:. ;ernor
body together with the two cheeseheaded screws and spring washers.
FIG. 40 - Fitting Rear

Clutch Plates
TO REASSEMBLE THE
TRANSMISSION
1. Refit the rear band adjuster

by screwing into the case from the
inside and fit the locknut to the
thread on the outside of the case.
Reposition the parking pawl
mechanism in the box and replace
the two pivot pins. The stepped
pivot should be tapped right home
and a new tension pin fitted to the
case to prevent this pivot coming
out.
2. The parking pawl and inhibitor
switch actuating mechanism should
be repositioned, in the manner removed, on the pivot in the case (see
Fig. 34). To assist, the spring should
not be attached at one end until the
complete unit is assembled and secured with the washer and spring clip.
Then, the free end can be positioned to tension the spring. Before
continuing with the assembly check
the working of the parking pawl
by manual operation.
3. Replace the seal in the crossshaft boss in the case. Carefully
slide the cross-shaft into the case
from the side opposite to the inhibitor switch and position on the
shaft the collar, parking pawl
actuating mechanism and bias
spring, in that order (Fig. 34). Pass
the shaft through into the opposite
boss in the case and locate in the
correct position with the collar and
tension pin. Position the spring
and ball and compress with a piece
7-34
ADJUSTING SCREW
PISTON RETRACTING
SPRING
PISTON GU IDE
ST RUT LOCATING
GROO VE
APPLY PORT
OPERATING LEVER
FIG. 41 -Exploded View of Front Servo

-
'
1
4
Rotate the piston about

the cup in the lever to
remove or replace
Secure with the large circlip (Fig.

46). Fit the one way clutch to the
outer race with the lips to the outside. (See Fig. 46). Turning the
cage whilst presSmg inwards will
assist in fitting the one way clutch.
Then, fit the centre support to the
assembly, so that the centre bou
is inside the one way clutch. Place
ON E WAY
CLUTCH
OUTER RACE
FIG. 42 - FiHing Rear

Servo Piston
of tube, at the same time sliding the
manual valve detent arc over the
ball. When in position line up the
hole in the cross-shaft with the hole
in the cam boss and secure with a
tension pin. Connect the parking
pawl operating link to the actuating
mechanism and secure with the
washer and spring clip.
4. Before fitting the output shaft,
position the rear thrust washer on
the inside rear face of the case,
retaining in position, if necessary,
with petroleum jelly. The three
lugs on this thrust washer will contact protrusions in the case casting
to prevent the thrust washer from
turning.
S. Fit the one way clutch outer
race to the planet gear carrier, engaging the Jugs on the outer race
with the driving lugs on the carrier.
FIG. 44 - Fitting the One

Way Clutch
~ VALVE
~ GOVERNOR
~
SPRING
...,...__(0SPRING
GOVERNOR
PRESSURE
RETAINER
OUTLET
FIG. 43 - Governor
Exploded
the steel washer onto the rear of
the planet gear assembly with the
lip rearwards, and then fit a needle
thrust race after the steel washer.
6. Position the rear band in the
case, engaging the end of the band
with the adjuster.
7. Offer up the1 planet gear as-
~embly and centre support, engagmg the planet gears with the ring
gear. Ali~n the marks, made when
di_smantling. on the centre support
w1th the marks on the case and
gently tap the centre support into
position. Ensure that the holes in
the centre support are in line with
the case holes and fit the two external securing bolts and lockwashers. These lockwashers are
also oil seals, and must, therefore
be fitted with the rim facing th~
transmission case.
8. Reposition the forward band

in the case, engaging the end of the
band with the fixed stop on the
centre web of the case.
9. Assemble the rear clutch to
the front clutch. Centralise the
thrust washer in the centre of the
PART 7-1
front clutch. Make sure the sealing rings on the sun gear part of
the rear clutch are correctly located
and, if of the hook type, locked.
Fit the steel thrust washer to the
fro~t of the rear clutch engaging
the mternal flats on the washer with
the corresponding flats on the rear
clutch . Fit the phosphor bronze
thrust washer alongside the steel
thrust washer. Align the splines
of the front clutch plates and carefully assemble the rear clutch to
the front clutch.
10. Fit the front and rear
clutches. Check that the needle
thrust race is fttted to the rear of
the forward sun gear shaft and the
sealing rings are correctly seated.
Offer up the front and rear clutch
assemblies (Fig. 45), passing through
the. ~ront band. When correctly
posttJOncd rotate the input shaft
to ensure that the asscmblv will
turn freelv .
11. Fit the pump. Position the

thrust washer on the rear face of the
pump. If incorrect end float was
noted when dismantling, replace
wtth the appropriate thrust washer
to allow specified end float.
the end-float. If this figure is not

between 0.010 in . and 0 .030 in.,
remove the front pump and r!place
the thrust washer. using ~ne of
a different thickness, see specifications.
REAR ADAPTOR (Single Range)
13. Reposition the rea: adaptor

plate.
14. Fit the rear adaptor body
Car~fully refit the adaptor body
makmg sur~ the sealing rincs are
no_t damaged. Align the bolt~holes.
usmg the small hole as a register,
and secure with the five bolts and
lockwashers.
15. Refit the governor (Fig. 46).
Turn the output shaft until the
governor driving ball hole is uppermost and position the ball. Then.
slid_e on the governor assembly ensunng that the governor cover
plate secured by two screws is facing rearwards. Fit the governor
retaining circlip using circlip pliers.
at one end to locate the centre support (Fig. 47).
19. Replace the valve bodies

assembly ~s pr,eviously described.
20. AdJUSt the servos as previously described.
21. Replace the sump. Fit a
new gasket to the sump flange and
replace the sump. Tighten the
bolts evenly to 8 to I 0 ft. lbs
t?rque. Replace the drain plug and
ttghten to a torque of l 0 to 14 ft.
lbs.
22. Refit the inhibitor switch, ensuring the flats on the shaft mate
correctly. Secure with two screws
and lock washers.
23. Refit convertor housing to
transmission case.
16. Replace the speedometer

driving gear. Position the drive
ball in the output shaft and fit the
speedometer driving gear. Secure
with the circlip.
17. Clean the rear face of the
transmission and place a new gasket in position. Refit the extension
housing and secure with the four
bolts and lockwashers.
18. Refit the front and rear
servos. Stick the operating strut
to the servo operating arm by
means of petroleum jelly and offer
the servo assembly into position
engaging the strut with the sho~
band. The two bolts for the front
s~:rvo are of equal length. but the
forward bolt for the rear servo is
longer and has a reduced diameter
FIG. 45 - Fitting Front

and Rear Clutches
See specifications. Using a new
gasket, replace the pump and secure with six bolts and Jockwashers.
12. Check the gear train endfloat. Using a screwdriver between
the case and the front of the front
clutch, push the front clutch as
far rearwards as possible to take up
any end-float. Set up a dial indicator gauge as shown in Fig. 31
and set the gauge to zero. Make
sure the front clutch is as far rearwards as possible and then lever the
front clutch assembly forward.
reading the gauge to determine
7-35
FIG. 47 Servo
Replacing the Rear
24. Fit the torque convertor to

the transmission.
Note: If the torque converter is
fitted at this stage there is Jess danger of damaging the pump oil seal.
Align the pump drive tangs with
the slots in the inner gear and
carefully replace the torque converter taking care not to damage
the oil seal
FIG. 46 - RefiHing the

Governor
If the transmission is to be held in

stock fit a transit strap across the
converter housing to prevent the
torque converter from being accidentally removed, and to prevent oil
seal or drive damage.

Date
Letter No.
Pace
Brief Detail
7-37
PART
7-2
C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

When diagnosing transmission
problems, first refer to the diagnosis
guide for detailed information on
the items that could be causing the
problem. The following preliminary
checks should be made in the order
given:
1. Check the fluid level. Check
the fluid for a burnt clutch plate
odor.
1. Check the engine idle speed
and dashpot adjustments.
3. Check the manual linkage
adjustment.
4. Check the accelerator pedal
height and downshift linkage.
S. Check the throttle linkage to
assure wide open throttle operation.
6. Check the engine for proper
operation.
FLUID AERATION CHECK

cause the fluid to become aerated.
Check the transmission fluid level.
Low fluid level can affect the operation of the transmission, and may
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEVEL CHECK
standing level. Then firmly apply
the parking brake.
cold, run the engine at fast idle
speed (about 1200 rpm) until the
ftuid reaches its normal operating
temperature. When the ftuid is
warm, slow the engine down to
normal idle speed.
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before
removing the dipstick from the
filler tube.
S. Pull the dipstick out of the
the way back into the tube.
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEAKAGE CHECKS
Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Leakage at the oil pan gasket often can
be stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to the proper torque. If
necessary, replace the gasket. Check
the fluid filler tube connection at
the transmission. If the filler tube
0-ring seal is leaking, replace the
seal.
The transmission fluid is water
cooled; check the fluid lines and fittings between the transmission and
the cooler in the radiator tank for
looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage cannot be stopped by tightening
a fitting, replace the defective parts.
radiator. If transmission ftuid is
present in the coolant, the cooler
in the radiator tank is probably
leaking.

tube again, and check the fluid level.
If necessary, add enough fluid to
the transmission through the filler
tube to raise the fluid level to the
F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do
not overfill the traasmission.

for leaks by disconnecting the lines
at the cooler fittings and applying
5 psi air pressure to the fittings. The
radiator cap must be removed when
making this check to relieve the
pres~re on the exterior side of the
cooler. If the cooler is leaking and
will not hold this pressure, the
radiator must be replaced. The
cooler cannot be replaced separately.
If leakage is found at either the
throttle lever shaft or the manual
lever shaft, replace either or both
seals.
Inspect the pipe plug in the case.
If the plug shows leakage, torque
the plug to specification. If tightening does not stop the leaks, replace
the plug.
When converter drain plugs leak,
remove the two drain plugs with a
six-point wrench. Coat the threads
with a sealing compound, and install the plugs. Torque the drain
plugs to specification. Fluid leakage
from the converter housing may be
caused by engine oil leaking past
the rear main bearing or from oil
gallery plugs. Be sure to determine
the exact cause of the leak.
Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent
dyes premixed at the ratio of l
teaspoon of dye powder to t pint
of transmission fluid have proved
helpful in locating the source of
the fluid leakage. Such dyes may
be used to determine whether an
engine oil or transmission fluid leak
is present, or if the fluid in the oil
cooler leaks into the engine coolant
system. A black light, however,
must be used with the fluorescent
dye solution.
7-38
FLUID LEAKAGE
CONVERTER AREA
leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures to facilitate locating the
exact cause of the leakage. Leakage
at the front of the transmission, as
evidenced by fluid around the converter housing, may have several
sources. By careful observation, it
is possible, in many instances, to
pinpoint the source of the leak
before removing the transmission
from the car. The paths which the
fluid takes to reach the bottom of
the converter housing are shown in
Fig. I.
1. Fluid leaking by the front
pump seal lip will tend to move
along the drive hub and onto the

back of the impeller housing. Except
in the case of a total seal failure,
fluid leakage by the lip of the seal
will be deposited on the inside of
the converter housing only, near
the outside diameter of the housing.
body will follow the same path as
leaks by the front pump seal or may
run down the face of the front
pump.
3. Fluid that leaks by a front
pump and converter housing to case
bolts will be deposited on the inside
of the converter housing only. Fluid
will not be deposited on the back
of the converter.
CONVERTER
CONVERTER DRAIN
PLUG LEAK
D1513-A
FIG. 1 - Typical Converter Area leakage Checks
case and 0-ring seal may cause

fluid to be deposited on the outside
lower part of the converter housing
as shown in Fig. I.
5. Fluid leakage from the converter drain plugs will appear at the
outside diameter of the converter.
Engine oil leaks are sometimes
improperly diagnosed as front pump
seal leaks. The following areas of
possible leakage should also be
checked to determine if engine oil
leakage is causing the problem :
(a) Leakage at the rocker arm
cover (valley cover) may allow oil
to flow over the converter housing
or seep down between the converter
housing and cylinder block causing
oil to be present in or at the bottom
of the converter housing.
(b) Oil gallery plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face
of the block to the bottom of the
converter housing.
(c) Leakage by the crankshaft
seal will work back to the flywheel,
and then into the converter housing.
forward of the transmission could
converter housing due to blow-back
or road draft.
The following procedure should
be used to determine the cause of
leakage before any repairs are made :
(a) Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid.
from the engine or transmission.
Unless a considerable amount of
make-up fluid has been added or
the fluid has been changed, the red
color should assist in pinpointing
the leak.
Since road draft may cause leaking valley cover oil to be present on
the transmission, this leakage, if
present, should be eliminated before
performing work on the transmission.
(b) Remove the converter lower
housing cover. Clean off any fluid
from the top and bottom of the
converter housing, front of the
transmission case, and rear face of
the engine and engine oil pan. Clean
the converter area by washing with
suitable non-flammable solvent, and
blow dry with compressed air.
(c) Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel, and
the converter drain plugs. The converter housing may be washed out
using cleaning solvent and a squirttype oil can. Blow all washed areas
dry with compressed air.
PART
7-2- C4
%2'
STEEl PlATE
X 1 a ,
DRill TO SUIT
7-39
~ HEX. HEAD SCREW
ff
Ya
DISHED OR
FlAT WASHER
1 3,4 O.D., 1~2 I. D.
%'-24 X
Y2
HEX. NUT %"-24

WElD
TOGETHER
CONTROl PRESSURE TAKE-Off HOlE
RUBBER PlUG
1 \12" DIA. X 2"

lONG \12"
SPACERB2Q-9438-A
HOLE THRU
APPROXIMATElY
40 DUROMETER
PLUG
CHAIN, 10' lONG
WElD TOGETHER
SECURElY -MUST
NOT lEAK
STANDARD BOlT
\12"-13 X 4\12"
lONG SQUARE
THREAD END
REMOVE HEAD
AND WElD TO
WASHER
VACUUM UNIT
D1504-A
FIG. 4- Vacuum Diaphragm

and Control Pressure Connecting
Point - C4 Transmission
STANDARD FIITING87971-S
VALVE
D1067-A
FIG. 2- Converter Leak Checking Tool

(d) Start and run the engine until
the transmission reaches its normal
operating temperature. Observe the
back of the block and top of the
converter housing for evidence of
fluid leakage. Raise the car on a
hoist and run the engine at fast idle,
then at engine idle, occasionally
shifting to the drive and reverse
ranges to increase pressures within
the transmission. Observe the front
of the flywheel, back of the block
(in as far as possible), and inside
the converter housing (Fig. 1). Run
the engine until fluid leakage is
evident and the probable source of
leakage can be determined.
CONVERTER LEAKAGE
CllECK
During the above fluid leakage
checks, if there are indications that
the welds on the torque converter
are leaking, the converter will have
to be removed and the following
check made before the unit is
replaced:
A leak checking tool (Fig. 2),
can be made from standard parts.
1. Install the plug in the converter (Fig. 3) and expand it by
tightening the wing nut. Attach the
safety chains.
2. Install the air valve in one of
the drain plug holes.
3. Introduce air pressure into the
converter housing. Check the pressure with a tyre gauge and adjust
it to 20 psi.

Correct manual linkage adjustment is necessary to position the
manual valve for proper fluid pressure direction to the different transmission components. Improperly
adjusted manual linkage may cause
cross-leakage and subsequent transmission failure. Refer to Linkage
Adjustments for detailed manual
linkage adjustment procedures.
~Tire
Pressure Gouge
FIG. 3 - Typical Converter Leak

Checking Tool
4. Place the converter in a tank
of water. Observe the weld areas
for bubbles. If no bubbles are
observed, it may be assumed that
the welds are not leaking.

Check and, if necessary, adjust
the engine idle speed, using the
procedure given in Group 10.
If the idle speed is too low, the
engine will run roughly. An idle
speed that is too high will cause
the car to creep when the transmission is shifted into gear and will
cause rough transmission engagement.
CONTROL PRESSURE AND

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
UNIT CHECK
When the vacuum diaphragm unit
(Fig. 4) is operating properly and
the downshift linkage is adjusted
properly, all the transmission shifts
(automatic and kickdown) should
occur within the road speed limits
specified in the Specification Section.
If the automatic shifts do not
occur within limits or the transmission slips during shift points, the
following procedure is suggested to
separate engine, transmission, linkage, and diaphragm unit or valve
body problems :
engine and a vacuum gauge to the
transmission vacuum line at the
vacuum unit (Fig. 6).
2. Attach a pressure gauge to the
and start the engine.
7-40

If the vacuum reading is lower than
18 inches, an engine problem is
indicated or there is leakage in the
vacuum line. Make necessary repairs to obtain a minimum vacuum
reading of 18 inches.
FIG. 5 - Control Pressure

Connecting Points.
4. Adjust the engine idle speed to
the specified rpm. If the engine idle
speed cannot be brought within
limits by adjustment at the carburettor idle adjustment screw,
check the throttle and downshift
linkage for a binding condition. If
the linkage is satisfactory, check for
vacuum leaks in the transmission
diaphragm unit (Fig. 7), and its
connecting tubes and hoses. Check
all other vacuum operated units for
vacuum leaks.
FIG. 7 - Testing Transmission

Vacuum Unit for Leakage
Then connect the vacuum hose to
the transmission vacuum unit. If
the gauge still reads \8 inches, the
vacuum unit diaphragm is not
leaking. As the hose is removed
from the transmission vacuum unit,
hold a finger over the end of the
control rod. When the hose is removed, the internal spring of the
vacuum unit should push the
control rod outward.
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTS

The test results of the following
checks should agree with the specifications given in Table I. When
performing control pressure tests,
make certain that the service brake
pedal is held in the applied position.
=
MANIFOLD
VACUUM
LINE HOSE
TO VACUUM GAUGE
TEST NUMBER ICONTROL PRESSURE CHECK

AT ENGINE IDLE
1. With the transmission in neutral, and at the correct engine idle,
the vacuum gauge should s}low a
minimum of 18 inches at sea level.
At engine idle, check the transmission control pressure gauge at

all selector lever positions. Transmission control pressures should
agree with the specifications in
Table I.
At altitudes above sea level, it
may not be possible to obtain 18
inches vacuum at engine idle. At
these altitudes with idle vacuum of
less than 18 inches, refer to the following specifications to determine
idle speed control pressure in forward driving ranges:
Engine
Vacuum
(At Idle)
17 Inches
16 Inches
15 Inches
14 Inches
13 Inches
12 Inches
II Inches
Control
Pressure
(psi)
5:2-74
52-78
52-85
52-90
52-96
52-101
52-101
....
0.
0.
0.
0.
0-0
0.
0.
0.
0.
0.
2. At engine idle, depress and release the accelerator pedal quickly

and observe the vacuum gauge. The
amount of vacuum should decrease
and increase with the changes in
throttle openings. If the vacuum
response to changes in throttle
opening is too slow the vacuum line
to the diaphragm unit could be restricted. Make the necessary repairs
before completing the test.
TEST NUMBER 2-CONTROL

PRESSURE INCREASE CHECK
The control
pressure increase
TABLE 1-C4 Transmission

CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO OUTPUT SHAn SPEED
En1ine Speed or
Manifold Vacuum
Throttle
Position
FIG. 6- Typical Vacuum Test

Line Connections
Idle-Above 18 Inches
of Vacuum
Closed
P.N.D.
1.2
R
52-85
52-115
52-180
VACUUM UNIT CHECK
17.0 Approximate
Inches of Vacuum
As
Required
D2 1
Line Pressure
Increase
10 Inches ol Vacuum
As Required
D2 1
96-110
Below 1 inch
of Vacuum
Thru detent
at stall
D2 1
143-160
230-260
To check the vacuum unit for dia-phragm leakage, remove the unit
from the transmission. Use a distributor tester equipped with a
vacuum pump (Fig. 7). Set the
regulator knob so that the vacuum
gauge reads 18 inches with the end
of the vacuum hose blocked off.
Transmission oil at normal operating temperature.
ShiH Selector
Lewer Position
Control (Line)
Pressure (psi)
Test
No.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

should be checked in all ranges except Park and Neutral. Shift the
transmission into D, 2, and R, and
check control pressure increase in
each range. With the correct control ptessure at engine idle, advance
the throttle until the engine vacuum
reading is approximately 17.0
inches. As the vacuum gauge reading decreases into these specifications, the control pressure should
start to increase.
Control pressure increase may be
noted immediately when the throttle
is opened due to the increased pump
output, resulting from increased
engine rpm. When this happens, the
pressure increase point can be
checked by using a distributor
vacuum tester. Install the distributor tester vacuum line on the
diaphragm assembly. Adjust the
tester to provide over 18 inches of
vacuum. Increase the engine to 600700 rpm. Adjust the tester vacuum
reading to approximately 17.0 inches and observe the transmission
pressure gauge for the pressure
increase.
TEST NUMBER 3CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK
AT 10 INCHES OF VACUUM
A control pressure check should
be made at 10 inches of vacuum in
D, 2. Advance the throttle until the
engine vacuum reading is 10 inches
and check the control pressure regulation. Control pressure should
be as shown in Table 1.
TEST NUMBER ~
CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK
AT 3 INCHES OF VACUUMCheck control pressure at one
inches of vacuum in D, 2, and 1.
The control pressure should be as
shown in Table l. Then move the
selector lever to R. With the
vacuum at one inch the control
pressure should be as shown in
Table I.
While making this pressure test,
do not hold the throttle open for
more than five seconds in each
detent position. Between each testmove the selector lever to neutral
and run the engine at I000 rpm for
fifteen seconds to cool the converter.
If the vacuum and pressure gauge
readings are within specifications,
the diaphragm unit and transmission
control pressure regulating system
are operating properly.
If the transmission control pressure is too low, too high, fails to
rise with throttle opening, or is

extremely erratic, use the procedure
given under the following appropriate heading to resolve the problem.
CONTROL PRESSURE
TEST RESULTS
TEST NUMBER I CONTROL PRESSURE IS LOW
AT ENGINE IDLE
If control pressure at engine idle
is low in all selector lever positions,
trouble other than the diaphragm
unit is indicated.
When control pressure at engine
idle is low in all ranges, check for
excessive leakage in the front oil
pump, case, and control valve body,
or a sticking control pressure
regulator valve.
TEST NUMBER I CONTROL PRESSURE IS
HIGH AT ENGINE IDLE
If transmission control pressure
at engine idle is too high in all
ranges, the trouble may be in the
diaphragm unit or its connecting
vacuum tubes and hoses, throttle
valve, or control rod.
With the engine idling, disconnect the hose from the diaphragm
unit and check the engine manifold
vacuum. Hold a thumb over the
end of the hose and check for
vacuum. If the engine speeds up
when the hose is disconnected and
slows down as the thumb is held
against the end of the hose, the
vacuum source is satisfactory.
Stop the engine, and remove the
diaphragm unit and the diaphragm
unit control rod. Inspect the control
rod for a bent condition and for
corrosion. Check the diaphragm
unit for leakage with the distributor
tester.
TEST NUMBER 2CONTROL PRESSURE DOES
NOT INCREASE WITH
VACUUM AT
APPROXIMATELY 17.0 INCHES
When the control pressure is
within specifications at engine idle,
but does not increase as the vacuum
is decreased to the specified limits,
first check the control rod between
the vacuum unit and throttle valve
for proper engagement. If the control rod is not assembled into the
end of the throttle valve or vacuum
unit, the valve cannot regulate
throttle pressure to increase control pressure. Next check for a stuck
7-41
primary throttle valve, pressure

booster valve, or a stuck control
pressure regulator valve.
If control pressure increases before or after vacuum is decreased
to approximately 17.0 inches, check
for a leaking diaphragm assembly,
bent diaphragm can, or worn or
bent control rod.
TESTS NUMBER 3 AND ~
CONTROL PRESSURE NOT
WITHIN LIMITS AT 10 OR 1
INCHES OF VACUUM
If idle pressure and pressure point
increase are within specifications
but pressures at 10 or 1 inch of
vacuum on the transmission is not
within specification in all ranges,
excessive leakage, low pump capacity, or a restricted oil pan screen
is indicated.
If pressures are not within specifications for specific selector lever
positions only, this indicates excessive leakage in the clutch or servo
circuits used in those ranges.
FIG. 8- Adiustable Vacuum Unit

When the control pressure is
within specifications at engine idle,
but not within specifications at the
pressure rise point of approximately
17.0 inches of vacuum, at 10 inches
of vacuum, or at 1 inch of vacuum,
the vacuum diaphragm unit may
need adjustment.
The vacuum diaphragm assembly
used on the C4 transmission has an
adjusting screw in the vacuum hose
connecting tube (Fig. 8). The inner
end of the screw bears against a
plate which in turn bears against
the vacuum diaphragm spring.
All readings slightly high or all
readings slightly low may indicate
the vacuum unit needs adjustment
to correct a particular shift condition.
For example, if the pressure at
lO inches of vacuum was 120 psi and
the pressure at 1 inch of vacuum
was 170 psi and upshifts and downshifts were harsh, a diaphragm
adjustment to reduce the diaphragm
7-42
assembly spring force would be

required.
If pressure readings are low, and
line pressure does not start to build
up until vacuum drops to 15 inches,
an adjustment to increase diaphragm
spring force is required.
To increase control pressure, tum
the adjusting screw in clockwise. To
reduce control pressure, back the
adjusting screw out by turning it
counterclockwise.
One complete turn of the adjusting screw (360.) will change idle line
control pressure approximately 2- 3
psi. After adju stment is made, install
the vacuum line and recheck the
pressures, part icularly the pressure
at 10 inches of vacuum.
The diaphragm should not be
adjusted to provide pressures below
the ranges previously specified in
order to change shift feel. To do so
could result in soft or slipping shifts
and damage to the transmission.
STALL TEST
Start the engine to allow it to

reach its normal temperature. Apply
both the parking and service brakes
while making tests.
The stall test is made in D, 2 and I,
or R, at full throttle to check engine
performance, converter clutch operation or installation, and the holding ability of the forward clutch,
reverse-high clutch and low-reverse
band and the gear train one-way
clutch. While making this test, do
not hold the throttle open for more
than five seconds at a time. Then
move the selector lever to Neutral
and run engine at l 000 rpm for
about 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test.
If the engine speed recorded by the
tachometer exceeds the maximum
limits specified in Table 2 release
the accelerator immediately because
clutch or band slippage is indicated.
TABLE 2- Stall Speed Limits

Engine
Model
CID
302-2V
Engine
Speed
(rpm)
1780-2000
Transmission
Type
C4
351-2V
1520-1720
250-2V
250-1V
1650-1850
1600-1800
C4
C4
C4
STALL SPEED TOO HIGH

If stall speed exceeds specifications, band or clutch slippage is indicated, depending on transmission
selector lever position . Excessive
engine rpm only in D, 2 and I,
indicates forward clutch slippage.

Excessive engine rpm only in R
indicates either reverse-high clutch
or low-reverse band slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in D indicates
gear train one-way clutch slippage.
STALL SPEED TOO LOW
and the engine is properly tuned,
converter stator clutch problems are
indicated. A road test must be
performed to determine the exact
cause of the trouble.
shown in Table 2 and the car cruises
properly but has very poor acceleration, the converter stator clutch is
slipping.
Remove the converter and check
the stator clutch as described in
Cleaning and Inspection.
When the stall test shows normal
speeds, the acceleration is good, but
the car drags at cruising speeds, the
difficulty is due to a seized stator
assembly. If the stator is defective,
replace the converter.
INITIAL ENGAGEMENT
CHECKS
Initial engagement checks are
made to determine if initial band
and clutch engagements are smooth.
Run the engine until its normal
With the engine at the correct idle
speed, shift the selector lever from
N to D, 2 and I, and R. Observe
the initial band and clutch engagements. Band and clutch engagements should be smooth in all
positions. Rough initial engagements
in D, 2 and 1, or R are caused by
high engine idle speed or high
control pressures.
SHIFf POINT CHECKS
Check the light throttle upshifts
in D. The transmission should start
in first gear, shift to second, and
then shift to third within the shift
points specified in the specifications
section.
through the detent (to the floor).
The transmission should shift from
third to second or third to first,
depending on the car speed.

Check the closed throttle downshift from third to first by coasting
down from about 30 mph in third
gear. The shift should occur within
the limits specified in the specifications section.
When the selector lever is at 2,
the transmission can operate only
in second.
With the transmission in third
gear and road speed over 39 mph,
the transmission should shift to
second gear when the selector lever
is moved from D to I. The transmission will downshift from second
or third to first gear when this same
manual shift is made below approximately 38 mph. This check will
determine if the governor pressure
and shift control valves are functioning properly.
During the shift check operation,
if the transmission does not shift
within specifications or certain gear
ranges cannot be obtained, refer to
the Diagnosis Guide page 7- 44 to
resolve the problem.
AIR PRESSURE CHECKS
A NO DRIVE condition can
exist, even with correct transmission
fluid pressure, because of inoperative clutches, bands. The inoperative units can be located through a
series of checks by substituting air
pressure for the fluid pressure to
determine the location of the
malfunction.
When the selector lever is at 2,
a NO DRIVE condition may be
caused by an inoperative forward
clutch or intermediate band. A NO
DRIVE condition at D may be
clutch or one-way clutch. When
there is no drive in I the difficulty
could be caused by improper functioning of the forward clutch or
low-rev~rse band and the one-way
clutch .
The low-reverse band cannot be
checked in I. If the low-reverse
band or clutch fails , the one-way
clutch will hold the gear train and
operation will be normal except
that there will be no engine braking.
Failure to drive in reverse range
could be caused by a malfunction
of the reverse-high clutch or lowreverse band. Erratic shifts could be
caused by a stuck governor valve.
drain the transmission fluid, and
then remove the oil pan and the

control valve body assembly. The
inoperative units can be located by
introducing air pressure into the
transmission case passages leading
to the clutches, servos, and
governor.
7-43
CONV ER TER IN
FORWARD CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch passage
(Fig. 9). A dull thud can be heard
when the clutch piston is applied. If
no noise is heard, place the finger
tips on the input shell and again
apply air pressure to the forward
clutch passage. Movement of the
piston can be felt as the clutch is
applied.
GOVERNOR
Apply air pressure to the control
pressure to governor passage and
listen for a sharp clicking or whistling noise. The noise indicates secondary governor valve movement.
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch passage (Fig. 9). A dull
thud indicates that the reverse-high
clutch piston has moved to the
applied position. If no noise is
heard, place the finger tips on the
clutch drum and again apply air
pressure to detect movement of the
piston.
INTERMEDIATE SERVO
Hold the air nozzle in the intermediate servo apply passage (Fig.
9). Operation of the servo is indicated by a tightening of the intermediate band around the drum.
Continue to apply air pressure into
the intermediate servo apply passage, and introduce air pressure into
the intermediate servo release passage. The intermediate servo should
release the band against the apply
pressure.
CONTROL
PRE SSURE
TO PRIMAR Y
THR OTTLE VALVE
PRIMARY THROTTLE
PRE SSURE TO VALVE
BODY
PRIMAR Y THROTTLE
VALVE EXHAUST
0217 1-A
FIG. 9- Oil Pressure Passage Holes

LOW-REVERSE SERVO
Apply air pressure to the lowreverse apply passage (Fig. 9). The
low-reverse band should tighten
around the drum if the servo is
operating properly.
If the servos do not operate, disassemble, clean and inspect them to
locate the source of the trouble.
If air pressure applied to any
clutch passage fails to operate the
clutch or operates more than one
clutch at once, remove and, with
air pressure, check the fluid passages in the case and front pump to
detect obstructions.
If the passages are clear, remove
the clutch assemblies, and clean and
inspect the malfunctioning clutch to
locate the trouble.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
The Transmission Diagnosis
Guide page 7-44 lists the most common trouble symptoms that may be
found in the transmission, and gives
the items that should be checked to
find the cause of the trouble.
The items to check for each
trouble symptom are arranged in a
logical sequence which should be
followed for quickest results. The
letter symbols for each item are explained in the Key to the Diagnosis
Guide.
If items A, B. C, D, E, and the
stall test have already been checked
during the preliminary checks and
adjustments, they need not be repeated when following the Diagnosis
Guide.

TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN,
AND REFILL
.
Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate periodic automatic transmission fluid changes.
If a major failure, such as a
clutch, band, bearing, etc., has
occurred within the transmission,
it will have to be removed for ser-
vice. At this time the converter

must be thoroughly flushed to
remove all dirt.
When filling a dry transmission
and converter, install 5 quarts of
fluid. Start the engine, shift the
selector lever as in Step 5 below,
and check and add fluid as
necessary.
Following is the procedure for
partial drain and refill due to minor

repairs.
transmission. Loosen and remove
all but two of the oil pan bolts,
from the front of the case and drop
the rear edge of the oil pan to drain
the fluid. Remove and thoroughly
clean the oil pan and screen. Discard the oil pan gasket.
7-44
C4 AUTOMATIC DIAGNOSIS GUIDI

Items to Check
Transmission
Transmission
in Vehicle
Out of Vehicle
KBWFE
OJ
ALBCDWE
BFE
B G WE F
r
BCD E J
CRDE
b r
BE
LWE
G FE J B
c
KBE
G J
HI
K
ABWFE
a c i
ABGWFEJ
a c
AHWFEI
b c
CE
i
Trouble Symptom
Rough Initial Engagement in D or 2
Rough Initial Engagement 2 OnJy
1-2 or 2-3 Shift Points Incorrect
Rough 2-3 Shift
Engine Overspeeds on 2-3 Shift
No Shift Points
No 2-3 Shift
No 3-1 Shift in D
No Forced Downshifts
Runaway Engine on Forced Downshift
Rough 3-2 or 3-1 Shift at Closed Throttle
Shifts 1-3 in D
No Engine Braking In First Gear-Manuall
Creeps Excessively in D or 2
Slips or Chatters in First Gear, D
Slips or Chatters in Secon" Gear D or 2
Slips or Chatters in R
No Drive in D onJy
No Drive in 2 only
No Drive in R onJy
No Drive in D, 2, or I
No Drive in Any Selector Lever Position
Lockup in 2 onl}'
Lockup in R only
Parking Lock Binds or Does Not Hold
Transmission Overheats
Maximum Speed Too Low, Poor Acceleration
Transmission Noisy in N
Transmission Noisy in First, Second, and Reverse Gear
Transmission Noisy in P
Fluid Leak
Kn TO DIAGNOSIS GUIDI
TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE
Fluid Level
A
Vacuum Diaphragm Unit or Tubes
B
Manual Linkage
c
D
Governor
Valve Body
E
Control Pressure Regulator Valve
F
Intermediate Band
G
Low-Reverse Band
H
I
Low-Reverse Servo
J
Intermediate Servo
Engine Idle Speed
K
L
Downshift Linkage
Convertor Drain Plugs
M
Oil Pan Gasket, or Filler Tube
N
Oil Cooler and Connections
0
p
Manual or Downshift Lever Shaft Seal
Q
lh -inch Pipe Plug in Side of Case
R
Perform Air-Pressure Check
s
Extension Housing to Case Gaskets and
Lock washers
u
Extension Housing Rear Oil Seal
w
Perform Control Pressure Check
X
Speedometer Driven Gear Adapter Seal
CHI E R
DWR
ACWFER
H I
c
AOF
F
F
F
MNOPQSUX
b c
a
c h
i
a I
g
n
n
d
h d
d
jmp
TRANSMISSION OUT OF VEHICLE

a
Forward Clutch
Reverse-High Clutch
Leakage in Hydraulic System
Front Pump
Parking Linkage
Planetary Assembly
Planetary One-Way Clutch
Engine Rear Oil Seal
Front Pump Oil Seal
Converter One-Way Clutch
Front Pump to Case Gasket or Seal
Reverse-High Clutch Piston Air Bleed Valve
7-45
PART 7-2 C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

2. Place a new gasket on the oil
pan, and install the screen and pan
on the transmission.
4. Run the engine at idle speed
for about two minutes. Check the
fluid level, and add fluid if necessary. Run the engine at fast idle
speed (about 1200 rpm) until it
reaches its normal operating temperature. Do not race the engine.
add enough fluid to the transmission to raise the level to the F (Full)
the transmission.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING
PROCEDURE
other internal trouble has occurred
in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band
material that may have been carried
into the cooler should be removed
from the system by flushing the
cooler and lines before the transmission is put back into service. In
no case should an automatic transmission having a clutch or band
failure or other internal trouble
resulting in fluid contamination, be
put back into service without first
flushing the transmission oil cooler.
l. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and
converter assembly in the car, Do
Not Connect the Cooler Return Line
to the Transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P (park)

position and connect the cooler inlet (converter out) line to the transmission. Place a pan under the end
of the cooler return line that will
hold transmission fluid. Do Not
Start the Engine.
Specification.
3. Start the engine and allow it
to run at normal idle speed for 3
minutes with the selector lever in
P (park) position. Stop the engine
and add additional transmission
fluid required to complete total fill.
Start the engine and allow it to run
at normal idle speed.
4. Allow approximately two
quarts of transmission fluid to drain
into the pan placed under the end
of the cooler return line.
5. If the fluid does not run clean
through the cooler, shut off the
engine and add two additional
quarts of transmission fluid.
the transmission fluid flowing out
of the cooler return line is clean.
the engine and disconnect both
cooler lines from the transmission
and cooler.
than 100 psi air pressure to reverse
flush the cooler lines and the cooler.
lines at the cooler and the cooler
inlet line (converter out) to the
transmission.
9. Start the engine and check the
fluid flow. If the transmission fluid
flows freely, proceed with steps 3
through 6. If there is no fluid flow,
lines and/or the radiator.
10. Shut off the engine, and connect the cooler return line to the
transmission. Check the transmission fluid level as indicated under
heading Transmission Fluid Level
Check. Add or remove transmission
fluid as required until the proper
fluid level is obtained on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE
TRANSMISSION.
11. Do not attempt to correct
cooler or cooler line leaks by closing
off the lines.
OIL COOLER TUBE
REPLACEMENT
When fluid leakage is found at
the oil cooler, the entire radiator
must be replaced. The oil cooler
cannot be removed from the radiator
for replacement.
When one or more of the fluid
cooler steel tubes must be replaced,
each replacement tube must be
fabricated from the same size steel
tubing as the original line.
Using the old tube as a guide,
bend the new tube as required. Add
the necessary fittings, and install the
tube.
After the fittings have been
tightened, add fluid as needed, and
check for fluid leaks.

CLEANING
TRANSMISSION
Clean all parts with suitable
solvent and use moisture-free air
to dry off all parts and clean out
the various fluid passages.
The composition clutch plates and
bands should not be cleaned in a
vapor degreaser or with any type of
detergent solution. To clean these
parts, wipe them off with a lint-free
cloth. New clutch plates and bands
should be soaked in transmission
fluid for fifteen minutes before they
are assembled.
CONVERTER
If there is reason to believe that
the converter has an excessive
amount of foreign material in it,

it is to be replaced.
I
STATOR
SUPPORT
FIG. 10 - Checking Stator to

Impeller Interference
FIG. 11 - Checking Stator to

Turbine Interference
7-46
STATOR TO IMPELLER
INTERFERENCE CHECK
1. Position a stator support shaft
on the bench with the spline end of
the stator shaft pointing up (Fig. 10).
2. Place the front pump rotor
over the stator shaft with. the flat
side of the rotor down.
3. Place the converter over the
stator &upport shaft so that the front
pump flats are in normal (running)
engagement with the pump rotor.
The converter pump driving hub
will bottom the rotor.
4. While holding the stator shaft
stationary, try to rotate the converter
counterclockwise. The converter
should rotate freely without any
signs of interference or scraping
within the converter assembly.
S. If there is an indication of
scraping, the trailing edges of the
stator blades may be interfering with
the leading edges of the impeller
blades. In such cases, replace the
converter.
STATOR TO TURBINE
INTERFERENCE CHECK
1. Position the converter, front
side down, on the bench.
2. Install the front pump assembly (complete) to engage the
mating splines of the stator support
and stator, and pump drive gear
flats.
3. Install the input shaft, engaging the splines with the turbine hub
(Fig. 11).
4. While holding the pump stationary, attempt to rotate the
turbine with the input shaft. The
turbine should rotate freely in both
directions without any signs of
interference or scraping noise.
5. If interference exists, the stator
front thrust washer may be worn,
allowing the stator to hit the
turbine. In such cases, the converter
must be replaced.
FRONT PUMP AND STATOR
SUPPORT
1. Inspect the clutch drum journal
for wear and roughness.
2. Check the side clearances
between the clutch apply pressure
seal rings and their grooves in the
stator support. These clearances
should be between 0.0035 and
0.0045 inch.
3. Remove the clutch apply rings

and install them in their normal
running position in the clutch drum.
Then check the ring gaps. This ring
gap clearance should be between
0.002 and 0.009 inch.
4. Inspect the input shaft bushings
in the stator support shaft for wear.
Check the oil ring grooves in the
stator support for nicks, burrs or
damaged edges. Check the gasket
mating surface of the pump body
for damaged surface.
S. Inspect the converter pump
drive hub bushing in the front pump
housing. Inspect the pump seal in
the pump housing for defects that
would cause fluid leakage.
CONTROL VALVE BODY

1. Inspect all valve and plug
bores for scores. Check all fluid
passages for obstruction. Inspect
the check valves for free movement.
Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs
or distortion. Inspect all plugs and
valves for burrs and scores. Crocus
cloth can be used to polish valves
and plugs if care is taken to avoid
rounding the sharp edges of the valves
and plugs.
2. Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plugs for
free movement in their respective
bores. Valves and plugs, when dry,
must fall from their own weight in
their respective bores.
GOVERNOR
1. Inspect the governor valves
and housing for wear. Crocus cloth
may be used to polish the valves if
care is taken to avoid rounding the
sharp edges.
2. Install the governor valves in
the governor housing and check
them for free movement. Each valve
should fall of its own weight when
dry.
PINION CARRIERS
1. The pins and shafts in the
planet assemblies should be checked
for loose fit and/or complete disengagement. Replacement, using a
new planet assembly, should be
made if either condition is found to
exist.
2. Inspect the pinion gears for
damaged or excessively worn areas.
3. Check for free rotation of the
pinion gears.
4. Inspect the front planet thrust
surface for excessive wear.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1. Inspect the composition clutch
plates for damage. These plates
should be flat. If the plates are not
flat, they must be replaced. If the
old plates are to be re-used, they
must not be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or cleaned with any type of
detergent solution. Wipe them clean
with lint-free towels.
If new composition plates are to
be installed, soak them in automatic
transmission fluid for at least 15
minutes before assembling them in
the clutch drum. This soaking
prevents damage to the plates during
the transmission fluid fill period and
initial running-in.
2. Inspect the steel clutch plates.
These clutch plates should also be
flat. If they are not flat, they should
be replaced.
3. Inspect the clutch release
springs for being broken or distorted.
4. Inspect the clutch piston ball
check valve for free movement and
proper seating. Make sure the
orifice in the clutch piston is open.
S. Inspect the clutch drum bushing for wear.
SERVO-ASSEMBLIES
1. Inspect the servo piston and
seals for defects that would cause
hydraulic leakage.
2. Inspect the cover seal and
gasket cover sealing surface for
defects.
CASE
1. Inspect the case for cracks.
2. With an air hose, check all
fluid passages for obstruction or
cross leakage.
3. Check all case linkage parts for
free travel and proper engagement.
4. Check the vent passage for
obstructions with an air hose.
ONE-WAY CLUTCH
1. Inspect the outer and inner
races for scores or damaged surface
area where the rollers contact the
races.
2. Inspect the rollers and springs
for excessive wear or damage.
3. Inspect the spring and roller
cage for bent or damaged spring
retainers.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATI ON

When the turbine rotates faster
than -fo- impeller speed the converter no longer multiplies torque.
_The fluid is directed against the
back face of the stator blades. As
the one-way clutch permits the
stator to rotate only in the direction
of impeller rotation, the stator
begins to turn with the impeller and
turbine. The converter operates as
an efficient fluid coupling as long as
the turbine speed remains greater
than -fo- impeller speed.
A comtant flow of fluid into and
out of the converter is maintained.
The fluid coming out of the converter is forced through a cooler
located in the radiator tank .
The converter torque multiplication gradually tapers off as turbine

speed approaches impeller speed,
and it becomes I to I when the
turbine is being driven at -fo- impeller speed. This is known as the
coupling point.
When the turbine is rotating at
less than /o impeller speed, the converter is multiplying torque. The
fluid leaving the turbine blades
strikes the front face of the stator
blades. These blades are held
stationary by the action of a oneway clutch (Fig. 14) as long as the
fluid is directed against the front
face of the blades.
DESCRIPTION
Figure I shows the location of the
converter, front pump, clutches,
gear train and most of the internal
parts used in the C4 transmission.
The identification tag (Fig. 13) attached by the lower front intermediate servo cover bolt. The tag
shows the model prefix and suffix,
engine displacement, and the built
date code.
OPERATION
TORQUE CONVERTER
The hydraulic torque converter
(Fig. 14) consists of an impeller
(pump), a turbine, and a stator. All
these parts are enclosed and operate
in a fluid-filled housing.
When the engine is running, the
fluid in the torque converter flows
from the impeller to the turbine and
back to the impeller through the
stator. This flow produces a maximum torque increase of about 2 tb
I when the turbine is stalled. When
enough torque is developed by the
impeller, the turbine begins to
rotate, turning the turbine shaft
(input shaft).
ASSEMBLY PART NO.
SHIFT
BUILD DATE
FIG. 13 - Identification Tag

CASE
INTERMEDIATE
BAND
REVERSE RING GEAR
EXTENSION
HOUSING
SEAL
GOVERNOR
DISTRIBUTOf<
OJTPUT
SHAF~-~
l,
.--~-
REVERSE PLANET CARRIE:-l
LOW REVERSE SERVO PISTON

FORWARD CL~TCH
CONTROL LEVERS
FIG. 12- C4 Automatic Transmission
7-48
FIG. 14 - Sectional View of

Torque Converter- Typical
OPERATION
TRANSMISSION
The new transmission features a
drive range that provides for fully
automatic upshifts and downshifts,
and manually selected low and
second gears.
The six selector-lever positions
provided are P (Park), R (Reverse),
N (Neutral), D (automatic Drive
Range), 2 (second-gear hold) and
I (low-gear hold).
Drive (D) is a fully automatic
range providing for a first gear start,
with automatic upshifts to second
and high gear occurring at appropriate intervals. Second gear (2)
is a manually selected second gear
hold. When the selector lever is
moved to (2) the transmission will
engage and remain in second gear,
regardless of throttle opening or
road speed.
D (DRIVE)
The normal automatic driving
range is indicated by D. In this
range the car starts off in first gear
and gives the best combination of
automatic gear shifts, to provide for
economy and fuJi power starts. As
the accelerator is depressed and the
car picks up speed, automatic shifts
to second and high gears will occur.
The transmission will automatically
downshift as speed decreases.
Forced downshifts in D are made
by pushing the accelerator to the
floor (kickdown) and the transmission will shift to 2nd or Ist depending on road speed.
2 (SECOND GEAR HOLD):

When the engine is started and
the shift lever is moved to 2 the cat
will start off and remain in second
gear, regardless of throttle opening
or road speed. This range is
especially useful for starting t.he car
on icy pavements or other shppery
surfaces. Similarly, when engine
braking is required and the selector
lever is moved from D to 2, the
transmission will engage and remain
in second gear. Selector lever
position 2 is not a cruising range in
the usual sense of the term. While
the transmission is capable of
limited cruising in second gear,
maximum fuel economy and best
all-around cruising performance are
realized in D range.
1 (LOW GEAR HOLD):
When the engine is started and
the shift lever is moved to 'I' the
car will start off and remain in first
gear regardless of throttle opening
or road speed.
When I is selected from D or 2
the transmission will engage and
retain first gear when road speed is
below approx. 39 mph.
When I is selected from D with a
road speed above 39 mph second
gear will be engaged and retained
until road speed drops below 39
mph when first gear will be engaged
and retained.
R-Reverse
Reverse gear is selected.
P-Park
In this position the output shaft
is locked to the transmission case
preventing the drive shaft from
rotating. The gear set is in
neutral.
N-Neutral
Places the gear set in neutral but
does not lock the transmission.
TOWING
Important. Should it be necessary
to tow a vehicle fitted with a C4
transmission, the drive shaft must
be disconnected or the rear end of
the car suspended, otherwise subsequent failure of the transmission
will occur.
PLANETARY GEAR TRAIN,
CLUTCHES, BANDS,
AND SERVOS
Planetary Gear Train. The gear
train consists of an input shaft that
is splined to the turbine of the
converter and the forward clutch
cylinder(Fig. l5). The forward clutch
cylinder rotates the steel internal
clutch plates of the forward clutch

and the composition clutch plates
of the reverse-high clutch. When the
reverse-high clutch is applied, the
external area of the clutch hub is
splined to and drives the input shell
to rotate the sun gear. When the
forward clutch is applied, the composition clutch plates drive the
forward clutch hub and ring gear.
The ring gear rotates the forward
planet gears.
When applied, the intermediate
band holds the reverse-high clutch
drum, input shell and sun gear from
rotating.
The sun gear, which is driven by
the input shell, is meshed with the
forward and reverse planet gears.
The reverse planet carrier and low
reverse drum are locked together
with external splines. The lowreverse drum can be held from
rotating by the low-reverse band.
In Dl the low-reverse drum is also
held from rotating by a roller type
one-way clutch.
The forward planet carrier, reverse ring gear hub, park gear and
governor oil collector are all splined
to the output shaft.
Forward Clutch. The input shaft
is splined to and drives the forward
clutch cylinder (Fig. 15). Rotation of
the cylinder drives the steel clutch
plates in the forward clutch and the
composition clutch plates of the
reverse-high clutch.
When the forward clutch piston
is applied by hydraulic pressure, the
movement of the piston against the
disc spring locks the steel and composition clutch plates together to
drive the forward clutch hub and
ring gear.
When hydraulic pressure is released from the piston, the disc
spring moves the piston to the
released position. As the disc spring
moves, the steel and composition
clutch plates are released. This stops
the rotation of the forward clutch
hub and ring gear.
The
forward clutch is applied in all
forward drive gear ratios.
Reverse-High
Clutch.
When
hydraulic pressure is directed to the
clutch piston, the piston moves
against the release spring (Fig. 15).
The piston movement locks the steel
and rotating composition clutch
plates together. The steel clutch
plates drive the reverse-high clutch
drum which is splined to the input
shell. Rotation of the input shell
drives the sun gear which is splined
to the input shell.

To release the reverse-high clutch,
hydraulic pressure is exhausted
from the apply side of the piston.
The return spring moves the piston
to the released position. The steel
and composition clutch plates are
now released to stop rotation of the
reverse-high clutch drum, input
shell and sun gear.
Intermediate Servo and Band. The
intermediate servo is machined into
the transmission case and the band
has an external adjustment screw
(Fig. I 6). To apply the servo, hydraulic pressure is directed from
the control valve body, through a
hole in the case to the hole in the
servo piston stem. The pressure
passes through the centre of the
piston stem and then to the apply
side of the piston. The piston moves
against the return spring to tighten
the intermediate band a-r ound the
reverse-high clutch drum.
To release the servo piston, hydraulic pressure is directed to the
release side of the piston. The release pressure is assisted by the
compressed return spring to move
the servo piston and intermediate
band to the OFF position. The
intermediate servo and band are
applied only during the intermediate
gear operation .
Low-Reverse Servo and Band.
The low-reverse servo is machined
\
into the transmission case and the

band has an external adjustment
screw (Fig. I 7). To apply the servo,
hydraulic pressure is directed from
the control valve body through a
hole in the case to a hole in the
piston stem. The pressure then
passes through the centre of the
piston stem to the apply area of the
servo piston. The apply pressure
force moves the piston against the
piston return spring to tighten the
low-reverse band around the lowreverse drum.
To release the servo piston and
band, the hydraulic pressure is exhausted from the apply side of the
piston. The compressed return
spring expands to release the piston
and the low-reverse band.
POWER FLOW
All Gear Rotations are viewed
from the front of transmission.
Table 3 page 7-52 shows the gear
ratios obtained in the different selector lever positions.
Power Flow Neutral. In neutral
(Fig. 18) the clutches or bands are
not applied, therefore, no power is
transmitted to the output shaft.
Power Flow First Gear. In low
gear (Fig. 18), the forward clutch is
applied, and the planet one-way
clutch or low-reverse band is holding the low-reverse drum and reverse planet carrier from rotating.
FORWARD CLUTCH
CYLINDER
7-49
The power flow is through the input

shaft and into the forward clutch.
The input shaft is splined to and
drives the forward clutch cylinder.
Rotation of the forward clutch
drives the forward clutch hub and
ring gear. The ring gear rotates the
forward planet gears clockwise to
cause the sun gear to rotate counterclockwise.
Counter-clockwise rotation ofthe
sun gear turns the reverse planet
gear clockwise. The reverse planet
carrier being splined to the lowreverse drum is held from rotating
by the one-way clutch or lowreverse band.
With the reverse planet carrier
held stationary, the clockwise rotation of the reverse planet gears
rotates the reverse ring gear and
hub clockwise. The hub of the
reverse ring gear is splined to the
output shaft and rotates the output
shaft clockwise.
The output shaft rotation is at
a reduced speed, compared to the
input shaft rotation, but at an
increased torque.
The output shaft rotation at a
reduced speed is caused by the fact
that the forward planet carrier rotates at the same speed of the output shaft and in the same direction
since the carrier is splined to the
output shaft. The forward ring gear
and planet assembly are rotating in
the same direction, but the planet
INTERMEDIATE
BAND
D1479A
FIG. 15- Gear Train, Clutches and Bands (Typical)
7-50
RELEASE
SIDE OF
PISTON
PRESSURE
~.PPL Y
PRESSURE
FIG. 16 - Intermediate Servo and Band
SCREW
D1485-A
FIG. 17 - Low-Reverse Servo and Band

carrier is rotating at a slower speed
than the ring gear. Therefore, the
low gear ratio (torque multiplication) is a combination of the ratios
provided by the forward and reverse
planet assemblies.
Power Flow Intermediate Gear.
In intermediate gear (Fig. 18), the
forward clutch is applied and the
intermediate band is holding the
reverse high clutch drum, input
shell and sun gear from turning.
The power flow is through the
input shaft into the forward clutch
and forward front planet assembly
ring gear. The sun gear is held from
rotating by the intermediate band.
This causes the forward planet
pinions to rotate (walk) around the
sun gear, carrying the forward
planet carrier with them. The forward planet carrier, being splined
to the output shaft, causes clockwise rotation of the output shaft at
a reduction in speed compared to
the speed of the input shaft, and at
an increase in torque.
Clockwise rotation of the output

shaft causes clockwise rotation of
the output shaft ring gear, causing
the reverse planet pinions to also
rotate (walk) around the sun gear
in a clockwise direction. The reverse
planet carrier will also rotate clockwise and the one-wav clutch inner
race being splined to the reverse
planet carrier, will overrun.
Power Flow High Gear. In high
gear (Fig. 18), the forward and reverse-high clutches are applied. The
power flow is through the input
shaft into the for~ard clutch cylinder. (The forward clutch cylinder
rotates the steel clutch plates of the
forward clutch and the composition
c1utch plates of the reverse-high
clutch.) The forward clutch directs
the power flow through the forward
clutch hub and ring gear to the
forward planet carrier.
The reverse-high clutch directs
the power flow through the input
shell to the sun gear. With the sun
gear and the forward clutch hub
ring gear driven at the same speed

the forward planet assembly (that
is splined to the output shaft) is
forced to rotate the output shaft at
the same speed and direction to
provide high gear.
Power Flow Reverse. In reverse
(Fig. 18), the reverse-high clutch and
low-reverse band are applied. The
power flow is through the input
shaft, reverse-high clutch, input
shell and to the sun gear. Clockwise
rotation of the sun gear causes
counter-clockwise rotation of the
reverse planet gears.
The low-reverse band, holding
the low-reverse drum and reverse
planet carrier from turning, causes
the reverse planet gears to rotate
counter-clockwise.
This rotates the reverse ring gear
and hub countc:r-clockwise. The hub
splined to the output shaft rotates
the output shaft counter-clockwise
at a reduction in speed and at an
increase in torque for reverse gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM
FRONT PUMP
A gear type ;:mmp mounted on
the front of the transmission case
supplies the fluid for the operation
of the hydraulic control system.
Pump intake is through a screen
which is part of the main control
assembly and into the case casting
and pump. Discharge is through
the case into the main control assembly. Fluid from the front pump
is directed to the following valves
in the main control assembly:
Main Oil Pressure Regulator
Valve
Manual Valve
Throttle Booster Valve
2-3 Shift Valve
Fluid is also directed to the
primary throttle valve, which is
located in the rear of the case. Fluid
pressure delivered to these valves is
at a pressure controlled by the main
oil pressure regulator valve.
MAIN OIL PRESSURE
REGULATOR VALVE
The main regulator valve assembly consists of the main oil pressure
regulator valve and spring, main
oil pressure booster valve, spring
and sleeve, located in one bore in
the mi!-in control assembly (Fig. 20).
Fluid is delivered to the end and
one valley of the main regulator
valve from the front pump. Fluid
pressure on the end land tends to
move the valve against spring force.
7-51
INPUT SHAFT
LOW-REVERSE
REVERSE-HIGH
FORWARD
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT
2 RANGE
OR
D RANGE 2
NEUTRAL
FORWARD CLUTCH
INPUT SHAFT
ONE-WAY CLUTCH HOLDING REVERSE

PLANET CARRIER AGAINST ROTATION
D RANGE
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT
D RANGE HIGH
LOW
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
FORWARD CLUTCH
LOW-REVERSE BAND
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT
1 RANGE
INPUT SHAFT
REVERSE
D1476-A
FIG. 18 - Power Flow
7-52
Spring force is such that at approximately 60 psi front pump pressure,

the main valve will move so that
the third land uncovers the converter feed port, allowing additional
pump volume to be used to charge
the converter. If volume supplied
by the front pump is greater than
that required to maintain 60 psi
line pressure, and converter and
lube requirements, the valve will
move further allowing the second
land to uncover the port which
allows excess pump volume to be
returned to the pump. Pressures
over 60 psi which are required under
various operating conditions are
obtained by delivering fluid under
pressure to the pressure booster
valve, which it will cause the pressure booster valve to assist the main
regulator valve spring in increasing
regulated line pressure.
Source of these pressures which
cause variations in control pressure
are discussed later.
MANUAL VALVE
One passage delivers line pressure
to the manual valve. The valve is
positioned by the manual linkage,
according to the mode of operation
desired, to direct fluid out of one or
more of the line passages which lead
from the manual valve. The four (4)
passages leading from the manual
valve (from left to right) are shown
in Fig. 20.
I. 2
2. D
3. 1-R
4. R
The 2 passage is charged in the
2 range only.
The D passage is charged in all
forward ranges.
The 1-R passage is charged in I
and reverse ranges.
The R passage is charged in
TABLE 3
reverse range only.

In Neutral and Park the manual
valve blocks the line pressure pass~
age and exhausts the four passages
leading from the manual valve.
20 inches (nominal) of mercury

vacuum. Primary throttle pressure
is delivered to the:
I. Cutback valve.
2.lntermediate band accumulator
valve (through cutback valve).
3. Second land of coasting boost
valve (through cutback valve).
4. Upper valley of pressure booster valve through top of line coasting
boost valve.
5. End of and through the throttle
booster valve.
6. End of pressure booster valve
(through ball shuttle valve).
Figure 19 shows how primary
throttle pressure varies with engine
vacuum.
The D passage supplies fluid to

the D2 valve, the forward clutch
and the governor.
The 2 passage supplies fluid to
the adjoining ends of the l-2 shift
valve and D2 valve, and through
one ball shuttle valve to the line
coasting boost valve, 2-3 shift valve
and downshift valve, through the
downshift valve to and through the
throttle modulator valve bore to the
l-2 shift valve.
The 1-R passage supplies fluid
through a ball shuttle valve to the
line coasting boost valve, 2-3 shift
valve, downshift valve, and through
the downshift valve to and through
the throttle modulator valve bore
to the l-2 shift valve. In addition,
fluid is supplied to and through the
02 valve when it is in the closed
(up) position, to and through the
low servo modulator valve to the
low-reverse servo and the l-2 transition valve. The same fluid is
directed to the spring end of the D2
valve.
MANIFOLD VACUUM
OlSSB A
FIG. 19 - Primary ThroHie

Pressure, Boost Throttle Pressure
and Line Pressure Versus
The R passage directs tluid to the

middle valley of the pressure booster valve, to and through the 2-3
shift valve to the reverse-direct
clutch, applying it , and to the release
side of the intermediate servo
(through intermediate servo check
valve). Fluid is also directed to the
upper end of the 2-3 backout valve
and the spring end of the low servo
modulator valve.
Manifold Vacuum 250 1V and

351 2V only
PRESSURE BOOSTER VALVE
(D, 2, l Range)
T.V. pressure is delivered to the
upper valley of the pressure booster
valve and to the end of the pressure
booster valve through a ball shuttle
valve. Depending on mode of operation, coasting boost pressure instead
of T.V. pressure may be directed
from the line coasting boost valve
PRIMARY THROTTLE
VALVE
The primary throttle valve responds to manifold vacuum changes.
Primary throttle pressure starts at
-Gtar Ratios
Transmission
Selector Position
Gear
Gear
Ratios
Forward
Clutch
Reverse
High
Clutch
Intermediate
Band
Low
Reverse
Band
One-Way
Clutch
Nor P
Neutral
--
Off
Off
Off
Off
Off
Low
2.46:1
On
Off
Off
On
Holding
Low
2.46:1
On
Off
Off
Off
Holding
D or 2
Intermediate
1.46:1
On
Off
On
Off
Over-Running
. High
1.00:1
On
On
Off
Off
Over-Running
Reverse
2.20:1
Off
On
Off
On
Not Affected
7-53
PRIMARY GOVERNOR
X
DRAIN-BACK
REAR LUBE
CONVERTER
PRESSURE
REUEF VALVE
INTERMEDIATE
BAND
X EXHAUST
FIG. 20- Hydraulic Control System- C4 Automatic- 250-VI and 351-2V

- 250-2V and 302-2V are the same but incorporate a ball in the throttle boost
valve spring.
7-54
end of the pressure booster valve.

When force created on the booster
valve by T.V. pressure or T.V. and
coasting boost pressure exceeds
pressure booster valve spring force,
the force will be added to the main
regulator valve spring force transmitted to the regulator valve. This
will provide increased line pressures
required to compensate for increased throttle openings and ~r\gine
torque output. Figure 19 shows how
line pressure varies with engine
vacuum at 0 output shaft rpm.
(R Range)
In reverse, additional fluid pressure is required to prevent clutch
and/or band slippage under stall or
partial stall conditions. This additional pressure is provided by directing R oil pressure to the middle
valley of the pressure booster valve.
The differential in area between the
lands creates a force which is added
to the forces present due to T.V.
pressure and the line coasting boost
valve pressure. The resultant force
is added to the force of the main
regulator valve spring, to boost line
pressure to a higher value than is
available in the forward driving
ranges.
GOVERNOR
At Rest-O mph
Control pressure (line) is fed to

the secondary governor valve
through the center passage in the
valve body when a forward range
has been selected. Because of the
differential in area of the inner and
outer lands of the valve. the valve
will be forced inward, shutting off
line pressure feed to the. governor
passage and allowing this passage
to be opened to exhaust, at the inner
end of the valve. At the same time,
line pressur.e will pass by two flats
on the outer end of the valve, pressurizing the line leakage passage
leading to the primary governor
valve. At rest, the spring on the
outer end of the primary governor
valve holds the primary governor
valve inward, blocking further flow
of the fluid in the line leakage passage. This causes pressure in the line
leakage passage to build to the same
value as line pressure. As a consequence, the secondary governor
valve is held in and there is no pressure in the governor circuit.
Above 10 mph
When vehicle speed reaches approximately 10 mph, centrifugal
force on the primary governor valve

overcomes spring force, and the
valve moves outward, opening the
line leakage passage to exhaust.
This action reduces the pressure on
the end of the secondary governor
valve to zero (0), allowing the
secondary valve to also move outward, due to spring force and
centrifugal force. When the secondary valve moves outward, it closes
the governor exhaust passage, and
allows line pressure to enter the
governor passage. As pressure builds
in the governor passage it will create
a force on the secondary governor
valve due to the differential in areas
of the inner and outer lands of the
valve. This force tends to move the
valve inward. When the force on
the valve created by pressure in the
governor passage exceeds the centrifugal force plus spring force, the
valve will move inward, allowing
governor pressure to exhaust, and
close the passage between line pressure and governor pressure. When
governor pressure is reduced, the
secondary valve will again move
outward, closing the governc:: exhaust port and opening the line
pressure to governor passage. Above
10 mph, governor pressure is regulated in this manner, and will vary
with vehicle speeds.
If vehicle speed drops below I 0
mph, the primary valve spring will
move the primary governor valve
in, closing the line leakage exhaust
port at the primary valve. Pressure
in the line leakage passage will become equal to line pressure, forcing
the secondary governor valve in.
This action shuts off line pressure
feed to the governor passage and
exhausts the governor circuit.
When the secondary governor
valve is regulating, governor pressure will be delivered to the cutback valve, end of the 2-3 shift
valve and the I -2 shift valve. Figure
21 shows the relationship between
governor pressure and output shaft
rpm.
:;
..:
100
60
20
0
0
10
15
20
25
OUTPUT SHAFT RPM100
30
Dl559A
FIG. 21 - Govemor Pressure

Versus Output Shaft RPM
THROTTLE BOOSTER
VALVE
Note: While the throttle booster valve
is fitted to all C4 transmissions it is
rendered ineffective on transmissions
fitted to 250 C.I.D. 2V and 302
C.I .D. 2V engines by a ball inserted in
the booster valve spring preventing
valve movement.
Throttle plate openings above
50 provide very little change in
engine vacuum as compared to
throttle plate opening below 50.
The throttle booster valve is provided to boost throttle pressure and
provide the necessary shi~t delay for
engine throttle plate opemngs above
50.
Below approximately 60 psi primary T.V. pressure, T.V. pressure
flows to and through the throttle
boost valve unaffected, working on
the end of the boost valve and on
the area differential on the spring
side of the boost valve. As a consequence, T.V. pressure passes
through the throttle boost valve
unaffected.
When T.V. pressure increases
above 60 psi, the force created by
T.V. pressure acting on the end of
the throttle boost valve, minus the
force of T.V. pressure acting on the
area differential on the spring side,
will exceed the force of the spring.
This causes the valve to move
against the spring, closing off primary T.V. pressure to the area differential on the spring side and
permitting this area to be fed from
line pressure, causing a boost in the
pressure used for shift delay only.
Because the area of the end of the
throttle boost valve exceeds the area
differential on the spring side by
approximately 2! to I, throttle
boost pressure above 60 psi primary
T.V. pressure will increase 2.5 psi,
per I psi primary T.V.
T.V. pressure from the throttle
booster valve is delivered to the
downshift valve, throttle modulator
valve, cut-back valve, and spring
end of the 2-3 backout valve.
Figure 19 shows the relationship
between primary T.V. pressure and
boosted throttle pressure.
THROTTLE MODULATOR
VALVE
The throttle modulator valve,
located in the end of the 2-3 shift
valve bore, reduces throttle pressure which acts on the ends of the
2-3 shift valve and on the area differential of the 1-2 shift valve.

Modulated throttle pressure in these
areas provides shift delay in relation
to throttle opening.
CUT BACK VALVE
Increased line pressure is required
to prevent clutch and band slippage
under stall conditions. As vehicle
speed increases, the requirements
for increased line pressure are considerably reduced. The cut back
valve provides for the reduction in
line pressure. When governor pressure acting on the end of the cut
back valve exceeds the force of T.V.
pressure and throttle boost pressure
opposing governor pressure the
cut back valve will move, cutting
off primary T.V. pressure being fed
to the pressure booster valve and
intermediate band accumulator
valve. The cut back valve movement
will therefore vary with engine
throttle opening and vehicle speed.
See Figure 22 for line pressure
variation with output shaft rpm
(vehicle speed) at constant vacuum
values.
WIDE OPEN THROTTLEI" VACWM NOM.
160l-----.
120
CLOSED THROTTLE-ABOVE
17'' VACUUM
o~-----~-~~-~--
10
15
20
25
OUTPUT SHAFT RPM x 10
30
D1569A
FIG. 22 - Line Pressure Versus
Output Shaft RPM

LINE COASTING
BOOST VALVE
The line coasting boost valve is
provided to boost line pressure under light throttle or closed throttle
driving conditions in 2, 1 or R
ranges. The boosted line pressure
controls the 2-1 downshift point in
1 range.
Primary T.V. pressure is delivered
to the end of the line coasting boost
valve and to the upper valley of the
pressure booster valve. 1-R or 2 oil
pressure is directed from the manual
valve through a ball shuttle valve to
the line coasting boost valve. Under
throttle off conditions, the force
created by 1-R or 2 oil acting on
the area differential will be directed
end of the pressure booster valve.
The output of the coasting boost
valve decreases with an increase in
primary T.V. pressure. Primary T.V.
pressure acting on the pressure
booster valve tends to increase line

pressure, however coasting boost
pressure is decreasing, resulting in a
slight reduction in regulated line
pressure from 20" to s manifold
vacuum at Zero or low vehicle
speeds. Below 8" manifold vacuum,
the output pressure of the coasting
boost valve will connect to primary
T.V. pressure from the cutback
valve, which will increase regulated
line pressure. At high road speeds
(after cutback) the output of the
coasting boost valve will decrease
from 20" through o manifold
vacuum which slightly decreases
regulated line pressure.
DOWNSHIFT VALVE
(fn 1, R and 2 Ranges)
1-R or 2 oil pressure is delivered
to the downshift valve. The difference in diameter between the
lands provides an area differential
for regulation. This pressure will
be referred to later as regulated
downshift valve oil pressure and is
used primarily to control the 2-1
downshift point in 1 range. When
the throttle is opened through detent the downshift valve is forced to
the right against spring pressure.
Boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pres
sure on 250 2V and 302) now re
places regulated downshift pressure
and is directed to the 2-3 and 1-2
shift valves.
(In D Range)
Because there is no control (line)
pressure feed to the downshift valve
in this range it is ineffective until the
throttle is opened through detent.
At this point boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V and
302) enters the valve and is directed
to the 2-3 and 1-2 shift valves to
give a 3-2 or 2-1 kickdown shift
depending on road speed.
1-2 SHIFT VALVE TRAIN
AND 2-3 SHIFT VALVE
The 1-2 shift valve train is composed of the 1-2 shift valve, 02
valve, and the 1-2 shift valve spring.
Operation of the 1-2 shift valve
train, 2-3 shift valve, and the downshift valve in the various modes is
as follows :
(D Range: 1-2 Upshifts and
2-1 Downshifts)
In 0 range the 1-2 shift valve is
held closed (up) by modulated
throttle pressure acting on the differential area between the two lands
of the 1-2 shift valve, by 0 oil pressure acting on the differential in
7-55
area between the two lands at the

spring end of the 02 valve, and by
the 1-2 shift valve spring. Governor
pressure tends to move the 1-2 shift
valve train against these forces.
When force created by governor
pressure exceeds the forces holding
the 1-2 shift valve train closed, the
1-2 shift valve and 02 valve will be
opened (moved downward), closing
the exhaust port and allowing 0 oil
to pass through the 02 valve to
accomplish the 1-2 shift. When the
02 valve is moved downward 0
oil is exhausted from the differential
in areas provided by the lower two
lands of the 02 valve. This action
eliminates the force created by 0
oil which tends to hold the 1-2 shift
valve train closed.
If governor pressure is reduced to
the point where spring force and
modulated throttle pressure force
exceeds governor pressure force, the
1-2 shift valve train will move up
(close) cutting off the flow of 0 oil
through the valve and opening the
exhaust port allowing a downshift
to low gear.
If the throttle is open to the point
where modulated throttle pressure
acting on the 1-2 shift valve plus the
1-2 shift valve spring force creates a
force greater than that provided by
governor pressure, the 1-2 shift
valve train will be closed, providing
a torque demand downshift to low.
If the throttle is open through
detent, the downshift valve moves
to allow boosted throttle pressure
(T.V. pressure on 250 2V & 302)
to enter the modulated throttle
pressure passage at the 1-2 shift
valve to provide a forced 2-1
downshift.
3-2 Downshifts)
The 2-3 shift valve is held closed
(up) by throttle modulator valve
spring force, modulated throttle
pressure force, and by line pressure
force acting on the differential in
area of the lands of the valve to
which is it is delivered.
Governor pressure tends to open
the 2-3 shift valve. When force
created by governor pressure exceeds the forces holding the valve
closed (up), the valve will move
downward allowing 0 oil .Pressure
to apply the direct clutch and
release the intermediate servo to
accomplish the 2-3 shift.
With the shift valve open (down)
the throttle modulator valve is held
down cutting off modulated throttle
7-56
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
pressure to the 2-3 shift valve and

1-2 shift valve. In addition, the port
which delivered line pressure to the
qifferential in area of the shift valve
lands, is closed.
The shift valve will be reopened
(moved up) causing a 3-2 downshift
under one or more of the following
conditions:
GOVERNOR PRESSURE
REDUCED
If governor pressure is reduced to
the point where it can no longer
hold the shift valve down against
spring force and T .V. pressure force,
the valve wiU move up causing a
downshift. Under closed throttle
conditions, the 2-3 shift valve will
close at approximately 10 mph
(speed at which governor pressure
is cut off). Since governor pressure
is cut off at this speed the 1-2 shift
valve train also closes at the same
time. This will provide a 3-1 downshift when coasting in D range.
THROTTLE PRESSURE
INCREASED
If throttle pressure is increased
sufficiently, it will move the throttle
modulator valve and consequently
the 2-3 shift valve up, causing a 3-2
torque demand downshift.
THROTTLE PRESSURE
INTRODUCED BELOW
2-3 SHIFT VALVE
If the downshift valve is moved
through detent, boosted throttle
pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V &
302) is directed to the underside
of the 2-3 shift valve, forcing the
valve up and causing a forced 3-2
downshift. Maximum 3-2 forced
downshift speed is controlled by
governor pressure.
(D to 2 Range)
If the manual vafve is moved to
2 range, the force created by 2 oil
pressure acting on the area differential of the 2-3 shift valve and on
the spring end of the valve plus the
force of the throttle modulator valve
spring will exceed the force created
by governor pressure. The 2-3 shift
valve will then close (move up)
allowing the direct clutch applyintermediate servo release oil to
exhaust, permitting the intermediate
band to apply causing a 3-2 downshift. In addition, D2 oil pressure is
introduced between the 1-2 shift
valve and D2 valve, and regulated
downshift valve oil pressure is introduced between the lands of the 1-2
shift valve. This opens (moves
down) the D-2 valve and holds it

open and closes (moves up) the 1-2
shift valve and holds it closed; thus
preventing a 2-1 downshift. The
transmission will remain in intermediate or second gear until another mode of operation is selected.
(D to 1 Range)
If the manual valve is moved to I
range at vehicle speeds greater than
approximately 39 mph, a 3-2 downshift will be accomplished in the
same manner as in 2 range, except
that 1-R oil pressure instead of 2
oil pressure is directed to the 2-3
shift valve.
At vehicle speeds of approximately 39 mph or lower, the force
created by regulated downshift
valve pressure acting on the area
differential of the 1-2 shift valve
plus the force of the 1-2 shift valve
spring will exceed governor pressure force holding the 1-2 shift
va~ve train open (down). The 1-2
shift valve train will then close
(move up), exhausting intermediate
servo apply and allowing 1-R oil
pressure to pass through the D2
valve to the spring end of the D2
valve, and to the reverse and low
band via the low servo modulator
valve. The transmission will remain
in low or first gear until another
mode of operation is selected.
(2 Range)
In 2 range, 2 oil pressure is introduced between the 1-2 shift valve
and D-2 valve, and regulated downshift valve oil pressure is introduced
between the lands of the 1-2 shift
valve. This action opens the D2
valve and holds it open and closes
the 1-2 shift valve and holds it
closed providing a second gear start
and preventing a 2-1 downshift.
The transmission will remain in
intermediate or second gear until
another mode of operation is
selected.
(1 Range)
In 1 range, regulated downshift
valve pressures enter the modulated
throttle pressure passage to provide
a manual low downshift to first
gear. Once the transmission is in
low gear 1-R oil pressure, which is
directed to the D2 valve, passes
through the D2 valve and is
delivered to the spring end of the
D2 valve, preventing an upshift.
1-R oil pressure which passes
through the D2 valve also applies
the reverse and low servo via the
low servo modulator valve.
(R Range)
In reverse 1-R oil pressure is
directed to and through the D2
valve to the spring end of the D2
valve and to the reverse and low
servo applying the reverse and low
band. The force created by 1-R oil
pressure on the spring end of the
D2 valve and the force created by
regulated downshift valve oil pressure on the area differential of the
1-2 shift valve is added to the force
of the 1-2 shift valve spring,
preventing any movement of the 1-2
shift valve train regardless of
governor pressure.
R oil pressure is directed to and
through the 2-3 shift valve to the
reverse-direct clutch applying the
clutch and to the release side of the
intermediate servo. The force created
by regulated downshift valve oil
pressure on the spring end of the 2-3
shift valve, and 1-R oil pressure on
the area differential of the lands
adjacent to the top valley of the 2-3
shift valve is added to the force of
the throttle modulator valve spring,
preventing any movement of the 2-3
shift valve regardless of governor
pressure.
2-3 . BACK-OUT VALVE
The. purpose of the 2-3 back-out
valve is to provide smooth upshifts,
when the throttle is suddenly closed
while accelerating in second gear.
Operation is as follows :
Normal Throttle-On 2-3 Upshifts
When the 2-3 shift valve moves to
cause a 2-3 upshift, D oil pressure
passes through the valve to apply
the direct clutch and release the
intermediate servo. This same pressure is also directed to the end of
the 2-3 back-out valve. However,
with throttle open, T.V. boost
pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V &
302) on the opposite end of the
2-3 back-out valve, assists spring
force in holding the valve up, so
that there will be no valve movement until after the 2-3 shift has
been completed.
Back-Out 2-3 Upshifts
When the throttle is closed during
a 2-3 upshift, and before the shift is
completed, there may be enough
pressure in the direct clutch cylinder
to apply the clutch at the reduced
engine torque input, but not enough
pressure to release the intermediate
servo. This condition could cause a
harsh 2-3 shift. However, if the
throttle is closed during a 2-3 shift,

primary throttle pressure will be
reduced to Zero (0), and reverse and
direct clutch apply pressure on the
end of the 2-3 back-out valve will
move the valve down against spring
force. This action immediately connects the clutch apply circuit to the
intermediate servo apply circuit,
reducing the pressure on the apply
side of the servo to the same value
as in the direct clutch (and also on
the release side of the intermediate
servo). When this happens, the
intermediate band is released, to
provide a smooth 2-3 upshift.
INTERMEDIATE BAND
ACCUMULATOR VALVE
TRAIN
The intermediate band accumulator valve train is composed of the
intermediate band accumulator
valve, and the accumulator valve
spring. The intermediate band accumulator valve in conjunction with
the intermediate servo check valve
controls intermediate servo apply
force on all applications of the
intermediate band, under open
throttle operating conditions in D,
2 or I ranges.
Operation is as follows:
3-2 Downshifts)
(2 and 1 Range: 3-2
Down shifts-Shifting D to 2 or 1)
Fluid pressure from the 02 valve
acting on the apply side of the intermediate servo piston tending to
apply the servo, causes the fluid
which is trapped in the intermediate
servo release passage to be pres-
surized. This pressure acting on the

end of the intermediate servo
accumulator valve will cause the
accumulator valve to move against
primary T.V. pressure and/or the
accumulator valve spring. The servo
release pressure is exhausted through
the reverse-direct clutch apply circuit
to maintain a certain level of
pressure on the release side of the
intermediate servo until it has
completely stroked, applying the
band. Force created by this pressure
on the release side of the servo, plus
intermediate servo spring force, is
subtracted from the force of control
pressure acting on the apply side of
the servo, thereby controlling the
servo apply force.
Should a change to 2 be made
under closed throttle conditions,
governor pressure will hold the cutback valve down providing an
exhaust for the intermediate release
circuit via the orifice restriction,
cut-back valve, 2-3 shift valve and
the manual valve.
(D Range: 2-3 Upshifts)
During a 2-3 upshift, D oil
pressure from the 2-3 shift valve will
unseat the intermediate servo check
valve, bypassing the intermediate
servo accumulator valve, allowing
the release side of the intermediate
servo to be pressurized at the same
pressure level as the direct clutch,
thereby releasing the intermediate
band.
1-2 TRANSITION VALVE
The 1-2 transition valve prevents
application of the intermediate

CONTROL LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTS
The transmission control linkage
adjustments should be performed in
the order in which they appear in
this section of the manual.
THROTTLE ADJUSTMENTS
1. Apply the parking brake, and
place the selector lever at N.
speed. If the engine is cold, run the
engine at fast idle speed (about 1200
rpm) until it reaches normal operating temperature. When the engine
is warm, slow it down to normal idle
speed.
3. Connect a tachometer to the
engine.
4. Adjust engine idle speed to the
specified rpm with the transmission
selector lever at D position.
5. The carburetor throttle lever
must be against the hot idle speed

adjusting screw at the specified idle
speed in D. To make sure that the
carburetor throttle lever is against
the idle adjusting screw, refer to
Group 10 for the carburetor adjusting procedures.
DOWNSHIFT CABLE
ADJUSTMENT
1. With the engine off, check the
accelerator pedal height measured
from the top of the pedal at the
pivot point (Fig. 26) to the floor pan.
To obtain the correct pedal height,
adjust the accelerator connecting link
at point A.
2. With the engine OFF, disconnect the downshift control cable at
point B from the accelerator shaft
lever.
3. With the carburetor choke in
the off position, depress the accelera-
7-57
servo before the release of the low/

reverse servo during a manual 1-2
upshift. In 'I' low / reverse servo
apply pressure is directed to the
spring end of the transition valve
forcing the 2-3 backout valve down
against throttle pressure and the
backout valve spring pressure and
so closing the apply passage to the
intermediate servo.
When '2' is selected from 'I '
apply pressure cannot reach the
intermediate servo until the low/
reverse servo apply pressure has
been exhausted at the 02 valve
allowing spring and throttle pressure to move the 2-3 backout valve
and the transition valve up and
open the intermediate servo apply
ports.
THROTTLE PRESSURE LIMIT
VALVE
The throttle pressure limit valve
is a spring-loaded exhaust valve
used to prevent possible over pressurization in the throttle circuit.
LOW SERVO MODULATOR
VALVE
The low servo modulator valve
provides improved engagement of
the low/ reverse band when manual
'I' is selected and during a 3-1
manual downshift by stabilizing the
low/ reverse servo apply pressure.
In reverse gear control (line) pressure is applied to the spring end of
the valve from the manual valve.
This ensures that full control pressure is applied to the low/ reverse
servo when reverse gear is selected.
tor pedal to the floor. Block the

pedal to hold it in the wide open
position.
4. Rotate the downshift lever C
counter clockwise to place it against
the internal stop.
5. With the lever held in this
position, and all slack removed
from the cable, adjust the trunnion
so that it will slide into the accelerator shaft lever. Turn it one
additional turn clockwise, then
secure it to the lever with the
retaining clip.
6. Remove the block to release
the accelerator linkage.
P.EF-C
DOWNSHIFT ROD ADJUSTMENT
1. Disconnect the throttle and
downshift return springs.
2. Hold the carburettor throttle
lever in wide-open position against
stop.
7-58
~~
~~
..
--\
2. Position the transmission

selector lever into the D position
making sure that the selector lever
i-s against the D, stop on the
selector plate.
3. Shift the manual lever at the
transmission into the D detent
position, third from the rear.
4. Tighten the clamp on the shift
rod at point A.
5. Check the pointer alignment
and transmission operation for all
selector lever detent positions.
CONSOLE SHIFT
'"'

the manual lever control rod (Fig. 23)
a~d remove the handle. (Fig. 23).
and the four screws in the glove box.
Remove the console and gear lever
slide assembly.
Column Shift
4. Detach the dial indicator light.
~--~
it "f...
(
)\\
,,
ti_)
Floor Shift
FIG. 23 - Manual Linkage
S. The gear lever slide assembly,

which incorporates the dial, may be
detached from the console by removing the four attaching screws.
housing.
9.
Install the selector lever handle.
FIG. 24- Selector Lever Detent Pawl Adiustment- Typical

3. Hold the transmission in full
downshift position against internal
stop.
4. Turn adjustment screw on the
carburettor kickdown lever to within
0.040 to 0.080 gap of contacting pickup surface of carburettor throttle
lever. Fig. 26
5. Release the transmission and
carburettor to the normal free posi-
tion.
6. Install the throttle and downshift return springs.
MANUAL LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT COLUMN SHIFT
1. With the engine stopped,

loosen the clamp at the shift lever
at point A so that the shift rod is
free to slide in the clamp (Fig. 23).
FIG. 25 - Neutral Start Switch
7-59
250 2V
in Fig. 24. With a feeler gauge
check the clearance between the
detent pawl and plate. The clearance
should be 0 .005 to 0 .010 inches. If
necessary adjust the height of the
detent pawl as shown in Fig. 24.
selector lever.
Fig. 23. Torque the attaching bolts
to 4-6 ft. lbs.
13. Install the gear lever slide
assembly in the console.
14. Refit the dial indicator light.
15. Replace the console ensuring
that the dial locating peg is correctly
located in the bracket on the selector lever housing.
l7. Position the selector lever in
the ''N" position.
18. Ral.se the veh1'cle. Install the
transmission manual lever rod to the
selector lever. With the transmission
in neutral and the selector lever
against the neutral stop tighten the
selector lever to manual lever rod nut.
NEUTRAL START SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT
1. With the manual lever properly
adjusted, loosen the two switch
attaching bolts (Fig. 25).
2. With the transmission manual
lever' in neutral, rotate the switch and
insert the gauge pin (No. 43 drill
shank end) into the gauge pin holes
of the switch. The gauge pin has to
be inserted to a full U inch into the
three holes of the switch (Fig. 25).
3. Torque the two switch attaching bolts to specification, Remove the
gauge pin from the switch.
switch. The engine should start only
with the transmission selector lever
in Neutral and Park.
BAND ADJUSTMENTS
INTERMEDIATE BAND
1. Clean all dirt from the band
adjusting screw area, loosen the
locknut, remove and discard the
locknut, instal a new locknut, do
not tighten.
2. Torque the adjusting screw to
10 ft. lbs., when using tool no.
121111 or BW-54 7 A-50-2 set the
torque wrench (W & B model
3200B) to 60 in. lbs. This will
Tt.t.NS. ONLY
LEVU
250 1V
" C"'
"C'
BlOCK ~HUATC>a n:Dit.L

IN W .O .T. POSITION .
.OTATE lEVU " C ' COUNTU
CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTEitNAl
STOf'.
HOlD lEVU " C"' ON STOf' AND
ADJUST CAlLIE TO f iT ACCIELUA TOl
TlANS DOWNSHIFT LEVU

ltOTAUD AND HElD AGA INST
SHAFT lEVU.
TUitN TIU'*"ION
ONE ADDITIONAL TU.N CLOCICWISf
INTUNAL IUCICDOYIN STOI'
IY
P'UUING CAlLE
AND SfC\J):E TO LEVU .
ADJUSTING END.
LEVU
ULIEASE
lOCK
351 2V ~
~
VI EW
~~~~r:,.,~.. ~~ ~'
m -
JU5f TOI..IOti!S
:. c::;.;~:;,;-~':"
CONTtOl
ADJUSTMENI
1.
W IT H TRANS . ROD 7 A116

INSTALL ED, HOLD CAI!&UR H TOR
THtOTTLE LE VU IN WO.T .
POSITION-AGAI NST STO'
HOLD TRA NSM ISSION IN FU LL

KICK OOWN POSI TION AGAI NST
INTERNA L STO '
TURN ADJUSTME NT SCREW ON

CA.IIIURHTOR ICICIC DOWN LEVEll
TO 010
TO WITHIN 040
GAP OF CoF.ifACTING PICIC UP
THRO TTLE lEVEl
SURFACE OF CA Rl
~J.J"'.!;.,~r. ;;""''~::..;~~.
?~"c;:...:r CAIU
ACCHERATOl 'EDAL.
DOWN
<11
RHfASE CARl ANO

FREE POSIT IONS
.5
INSTALL ACCHUATOI ~737 AND

ICICIC DOWN 711<110 lfUACliNG
SPRINGS.
TR ANS .
TO
l / D CAt ADJU$lMENT
...a<.
a..:::.:::.:::..::..::._______......~.-_ _,
302 2V
WITH- THE
ASSEMilED.
liNKAG E COM PLETELY

THIS DISTANCE
TO IE SUCH THAT THE
IS
UANSMISS ION DOWNSH IFT lEVU " C

ltOTATU COUNTU CLOCKWISE
COLOU R CODE
AND CONTACTS THE INTERNAL

STOf' WITH THE PfOAL
O(flESSfD TO W.O.T.
TlANS DOWNSH IFT
lEVU
3.5 1 '1V ILUE

VI EW
3SI <~~V
ltOTATfD AND HELD AGA INST

INTERNAL ICIO::DOWN STO I'
1'1' 1'\Jllii\IG CAllE
ADJUSTING END.
O RANGE
,..,TOMATIC TIANSMISSION CONT.Ol

ADJUSTMfNT
'' X"
.OTATE lEVEl " C' COUNTU

CLOCICWIR TO CONTACT INTERNAL
STOf'.
ON STOf' Al''t
ADJUST CAlliE TO Flf ACCIELUA TV!t
HOLD LEVU ''C '
~rA~TEI~~~~~ISE
AND SEC\Jl:E TO LEVU.
lElfASE ACCflEIATOI 'fOAl .
VIEW
" V"
LEVU "C"
FIG. 26-Throttle Linkage Installations

result in 10 ft. lbs. torque at the
screw. (Fig. 27)
3. Back off the adjusting screw
exactly 1i turns.
4. Hold the adjusting screw from
turning and torque the locknut to
specification.
NOTE: The lock nut must be
discarded and a new one installed
each time the band is adjusted.
LOW -REVERSE BAND
1. Clean all dirt from the band
adjusting screw area, loosen the
locknut, remove and discard the
locknut, instal a new locknut, do
not tighten.
10 ft. lbs., when using tool no.
121111 or BW-54 7 A-50-2 set the
torque wrench (W & B model
3200B) to 60 in. lbs. This will
result m 10 ft. lbs. torque at the

screw. (Fig. 28)
exactly 3 full turns.
turning and torque the lock nut to
specification.
NOTE: The lock nut must be
discarded and a. new one installed
each time the hand is adjusted.
OIL PAN AND CONTROL VALVE
BODY REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the car so the transmission oil pan is accessible.
. .
2. Loosen the oil pan retammg
bolts and lower one edge of the oil
pan to drain the transmission oil. If
the same fluid is to be used again,
filter the fluid through a 100 mesh
screen. Re-use the fluid only if it is
in good condition.
7-60
FIG. 27 - Intermediate Band

Adjustment
valve while removing the control

assembly could cause the manual to
become bent or damaged.
6. Refer to the Major Repair
Operation for control valve body
repair operation.
7. Thoroughly clean and remove
all the gasket material from the oil
pan and the oil pan mounting face
of the case. Install the valve body
to the case, engaging the transmission inner control levers with the
valve body manual and downshift
valves.
8. Shift the manual lever at the
transmission into the P detent position. In.stall the valve body to the
case. Position the inner downshift
lever between the downshift lever
stop and the downshift valve. Make
sure the two lands on the end of the
manual valve engage the actuating
pin on the manual detent lever.
Install seven valve body-to-case
bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at
this stage.
9. Position the detent valve spring
to the lower valve body and install
the spring-to-case bolt finger tight
(Fig. 29).
10. Hold the detent spring roller
in the centre of the manual detent
lever and install the detent springto-lower valve body bolt. Tighten
the bolt to specifications.
11. Tighten all the control valve
body-to-case attaching bolts to
specifications.
12. Place a new gasket on the oil
pan. Install the oil pan and attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to
specification.
On PEF-C models connect
the filler tube to the pan and tighten
securely.

transmission with fluid. Check the
transmission oil pan area for fluid
leakage.
INTERMEDIATE SERVO
REPAIR
four servo cover to case attaching
bolts.
2. Remove the servo cover, gasket,
piston, and piston return spring.
Remove the piston from the cover
(Fig. 61).
3. Remove the piston seals and
cover gasket.
4. Install new piston seals on the
piston. Lubricate the piston seals
with clean transmission fluid. Install
the servo piston in the cover.
5. Install the piston return spring
in the case. Place a new gasket on
the cover. Install the piston and
cover into the transmission case
making sure that the slotted end of
the piston is in a horizontal position
so that it will engage the strut.
Use two -ilr-18 x ll bolts, 180
apart to position the cover against
the case.
6. Install the two servo cover
attaching bolts. Remove the two
ll-inch bolts and install two attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to
specification.
7. Adjust the intermediate band.
Lower the car and check the transmission fluid level.
8. If the band cannot be adjusted
properly, the struts are not in
position. Remove the oii pan and
valve body. Install the struts, valve
body, oil pan, and adjust the band.
Refill th~ transmission with fluid.
FIG. 28 - Low-Reverse Band

Adjustment
On PEF-C models disconnect
the fluid filler tube from the transmission oil pan to drain the fluid.
3. Remove the transmission oil
pan attaching bolts, oil pan and
gasket.
4. Shift the transmission manual
lever to the P position and remove
the two bolts that attach the detent
spring to the valve body and case
(Fig. 29).
5. Remove the remaining valve
body-to-case attaching bolts. Hold
the manual valve to keep it from
sliding out of the valve body and
remove the valve body from the
case. Failure to hold the manual
02058-A
FIG. 29- Control Valve Body Detent Spring Installed
7-61
FIG. 30 - Removing Extension Housing Seal

EXTENSION HOUSING
BUSHING
~~;.;;,;:==::::::-::::..
D1025-1
FIG. 31 - Removing Extension

Housing Bushing
EXTENSION HOUSING
D1026-B
FIG. 32 - Installing Extension

Housing Bushing
FIG. 33 - Installing Extension Housing Seal

LOW-REVERSE SERVO
PISTON REPLACEMENT
2. Loosen the reverse band adjust
ing screw lock nut. Tighten the
reverse band adjusting screw to lO
ft-lbs torque. (Tightening the screw
will insure that the band strut will
be held against the case by the band,
preventing it from falling down
when the reverse servo piston
assembly is removed.)
3. Remove the four servo covers
to case attaching bolts. Remove the
servo cover and seal from the case.
4. Remove the reverse servo
piston and stem from the case as
an assembly.
5. Insert a small screwdriver in
the hole of the piston stem (Fig. 59).
Remove the piston attaching nut.
6. Remove the servo piston from
the stem . The piston seal cannot be
replaced without replacing the
piston. The seal is bonded to the

piston.
7. Position the spacer on the
piston stern. Install a new piston on
the stern. Install the attaching nut.
Torque the nut to specification.
8. Install the reverse servo piston
assembly in the case. Make sure
that the release spring is in position.
9. Install the reverse servo cover
and a new seal, using the same procedure as with the intermediate
servo. Torque the bolts to specification.
10. Adjust the reverse band.
11. Lower the car and check the
transmission fluid level.
EXTENSION HOUSING
BUSHING AND REAR SEAL
REPLACEMENT
2. When only the rear seal needs
FIG. 34 - Governor Installed

replacing, carefully remove it with
a tapered chisel or the tools shown
in Fig. 30. Remove the bushin g as
shown in Fig. 31. Use the bushing
remover carefully so that the spline
seal is not damaged.
3. When installing a new bushing
use the special tool shown in Fig.
3l.
4. Before installing a new seal,
inspect the sealing surface of the
universal joint yoke for scores. If
scores are found, replace the yoke.
5. Inspect the counterbore of the
housing for burrs and remove with
crocus cloth.
6. Install the seal into the housing
with the tool shown in Fig. 33. The
seal should be firmly seated in the
bore. Coat the inside diameter of
the fiber portion of the seal with
B8A-19589-A lubricant.
7. Coat the front universal joint
spline with B8A-19589-A lubricant
and install the drive shaft.
EXTENSION HOUSING AND
GOVERNOR REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the car on the hoist.
2. Remove the drive shaft. Position the transmission jack to support
the transmission.
3. Remove the speedometer cable
from the extension housing.
to crossmember mount attaching
bolts. Raise the transmission and
remove the mounting pad between
the extension housing and the crossmember.
5. Loosen the extension housing
attaching bolts to drain the transmission fluid. Disconnect the exhaust inlet pipes at the manifold
and lower the inlet pipes.
7-62
6. Remove the six extension

housing-to-case attaching bolts and
remove the extension housing.
7. Remove the governor housingto-governor distributor attaching
bolts (Fig. 34). Remove the governor housing from the distributor.
8. Refer to Major Repair Operations for governor repair operations.
9. Install the governor housing
on the governor distributor (Fig.
34). Install the attaching bolts and

torque the bolts to specification.
10. Install a new extension housing gasket on the case. Install the
extension housing and six attaching
11. Install the transmission
mounting pad to the crossmember.
Lower the transmission and install
the extension housing-to-crossmem-
her attaching bolts. Torque the

attaching bolts to specification.
Remove the transmission jack.
12. Connect the speedometer
cable to the extension housing.
Install the drive shaft.
13. Install the inlet pipes on the
manifold.
transmission with fluid.
15. Check the extension housing
area for fluid leakage.

REMOVAL
two converter cover attaching bolts
at the lower front side of the converter housing. Remove the cover.
l. Remove the two converter
drain plugs (Fig. 35). Drain the
fluid from the converter. Install the
two converter drain plugs.
3. Remove the drive shaft and
install the extension housing seal
replacer tool in the extension
housing.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose
from the transmission vacuum unit.
Disconnect the vacuum line from
the retaining clip.
housing to crossmember bolts.
7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe
flange from the manifolds.
8. Remove the parking brake
cable from the equalizer lever.
9. Loosen the transmission oil
pan bolts and drain the fluid at one
corner of the oil pan. Tighten the
attaching bolts after the fluid has
drained.
10. Disconnect the fluid cooler
lines from the transmission case.
Remove the fluid tube from the
case.
11. Remove the manual and
kickdown linkage rods from the
transmission control levers.
ll. Remove the starter cable.
Remove the starter attaching bolts
and remove the starter from the
converter housing.
13. Remove the four converterto-flywheel attaching nuts.
14. Position the transmission
jack to support the transmission
and secure the transmission to the
jack with a safety chain.
FIG. 35 - Converter Drain Plug

Location
FIG. 36 - Transmission Mounted

on Jack
15. Remove the four crossmember and mounting pad attaching
bolts and lower the crossmember . .
16. Remove the five converter
housing-to-engine; attaching bolts.
Lower the transmission {Fig. 36),
and remove it from 'Under the car.
INSTALLATION
1. With the converter properly
installed, place the transmission on
the jack (Fig. 36). Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety
chain.
2. Raise the transmission into
position and install the five converter housing-to-engine attaching
bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. Remove the safety chain from
the transmission.
3. Position the crossmember and
mounting pad into position and
install the four attaching bolts.
4. Lower the transmission and
install the extension housing and
crossmember attaching bolts.
5. Install the four flywheel-toconverter attaching nuts. Torque
the nuts to specification.
6. Remove the transmission jack.
Connect the vacuum hose to the
transmission vacuum unit. Install
the vacuum line retaining clip.
filler tube. Connect the fluid cooling
lines to the transmission case.
8. Connect the linkage rods to
the transmission downshift and
manual control levers.
9. Connect the speedometer
cable to the extension housing.
10. Connect the exhaust inlet
pipes to the manifolds.
11. Install -and adjust the parking
brake cable at the equalizer lever.
12. Install the converter housing
cover and torque the attaching bolts
to specification.
the bolts to specification. Connect
the starter cable.
14. Install the drive shaft. Torque
the companion flange U-bolt nuts
to specification.
transmission with fluid. Adjust the
manual and kickdown linkage.
7-63

Before removing any of the subassemblies, thoroughly clean the
outside of the transmission to
prevent dirt from entering the
mechanical parts. During the repair
operations, refer to Part 7-1 for
common adjustments and repairs or
cleaning and inspection procedures.
During the transmission disassembly or assembly operations,
ten thrust washers located between
the sub-assemblies must be removed
and installed. It is important that
each thrust washer be in the correct
position during the assembly operation.
To properly locate and identify
the thrust washers, the various
positions of the thrust washers are
shown in the illustrations and are
numbered 1 through 10. Number I
is the first thrust washer located at
the front pump. The last thrust
washer, No. 10, is located at the
parking pawl ring gear.
01381-A
FIG. 38 - Removing or Installing

Primary Throttle Valve
LOW-RE VE RSE BAND

ADJUSTING SC REW
LOW RE VERSE
BAND STRUTS 0 1384 C
FIG. 41 -Band Adiusting Studs

and Struts
6. Remove control valve body.
7. Loosen the intermediate band
adjusting screw (Fig. 41) and
remove the intermediate band struts
from the case. Loosen the lowreverse band adjusting screw and
remove the low-reverse band struts
(Fig. 41).
DISASSEMBLY OF
TRANSMISSION
1. Remove the converter from
the transmission front pump and
converter housing.
vacuum unit with the tool shown
in Fig. 37. Remove the vacuum unit
gasket and control rod.
3. From the vacuum unit hole in
the case, remove the primary throttle
valve (Fig. 38).
housing-to-case attaching bolts and
mount the transmission in the
holding fixture as shown in Fig. 39.
5. Remove the oil pan attaching
bolts, and the oil pan and gasket.
FIG. 39 - Transmission Mounted

in Holding Fixture
FIG. 37- Removing Vacuum Unit
FIG. 40- Control Valve

Attaching Bolts
01382-A
TRANSMISSION END
PLAY CHECK
1. To keep the output shaft in
alignm~nt during the . end play
check, mstall the extenston housing
oil seal replacer tool or a front
universal joint yoke in the extension
housing.
2. Remove one of the front
pump-to-case attaching bolts and
mount the dial indicator as shown
in Fig. 42.
:\. The input shaft is a loose part
and has to be properly engaged with
D 13838
D1385-B
FIG. 42 - Checking End Play
7-64
SELECTIVE THRUST WASHERS

(FOR END PLAY CORRECTION)
~RONT PUMP
STATOR SUPPORT
THRUST WASHER NO. 1

Red
0.053 0.0575
0.070. 0.074
0.087. 0.091
0.104. 0.108
0.121-0. 125
Green
THRUST WASHER NO. 2

No. Stamped
Woaher
Metal
Thr'(&t Washer
0.043 0.041
0.058- O.OS6
0.075-0.073
Natural
Block
Yellow
SPACER
NYLON SELECTIVE
THRUST WASHER
NO.1
0.036 0.032
(This is o selective spacer

used with washer 2 or 3. When
used, install next to stator
su ort.
0 1865-0
D 1869 B
FIG. 43- Selective Thrust Washer Locations

the spline of the forward clutch hub
during the end play checking procedure. Move the input shaft and
gear train toward the back of the
transmission case.
4. With the dial indicator contacting the end of the input shaft,
set the indicator at zero (Fig. 42).
5. Insert a screwdriver behind the
input shell (Fig. 42). Move the input
shell and the front part of the gear
train forward.
6. Record the dial indicator reading. The end play should be 0.008
to 0.042 inch. If the end play is not
within specifications, the selective
thrust washers (Fig. 43) must be
replaced as required.
The selective thrust washers can
be replaced individually to obtain
the specified end play.
7. Remove the dial indicator and
remove the input shaft from the
front pump stator support (Fig. 44).
REMOVAL OF CASE AND
EXTENSION HOUSING PARTS
1. Rotate the holding fixture to
put the transmission in a vertical
position with the converter housing
up.

Input Shaft
INPUT SHELL
FIG. 47 - Lifting Input Shell and

Gear Train
D 18678
FIG. 45 - Removing Front Pump
'
'
,.;
CLEARANCE
INTERMEDIA
BAND
HOLE IN CASE
'P
edge of the case. Remove the front

pump and gasket from the case. If
the selective thrust washer No. 1
did not come out with the front
pump, remove it from the top of the
reverse-high clutch.
4. Remove the intermediate and
low-reverse band adjusting screws
from the case. Rotate the intermediate band to align the band with
the clearance hole in the case (Fig.
46). Remove the intermediate band
from the case. If the intermediate
band is to be re-used, do not clean
it in a vapor degreaser, or with a
detergent solution. Clean the band
with a lint free cloth.
5. Using a screwdriver between
the input shell and rear planet carrier
(Fig. 47) lift the input shell upward
and remove the forward part of the
gear train as an assembly (Fig. 48).
6. Place the forward part of the
gear train in the holding fixture
shown in Fig. 49.
D 1389-A

Intermediate Band
2. Remove the five converter
housing to case retaining bolts.
Remove the converter housing from
the transmission case.
Remove the six converter housing and front pump to case retaining
bolts on the PEE-AC model, or the
five converter housing to case retaining bolts on the PEF-C model.
3. Remove the seven front pump
attaching bolts. Remove the front
pump by inserting a screwdriver
behind the input shell (Fig. 45).
Move the input shell forward until
the front pump seal is above the
D 1870 . B

Forward Part of Gear Train
7-65

FORWARD GEAR TRAIN ASSEMBLY
[)
e
I~
19
LOW-R
D1396-A

Low-Reverse Band

Reverse Ring Gear Hub Retaining
Ring
7. From the g-ear train in the
holding fixture, remove the reversehigh clutch and drum from the
forward clutch (Fig. 50).
8. If thrust washer No. 2 (Fig.
43) did not come out with the front
pump, remove the thrust washer
from the forward clutch cylinder.
FIG. 49- Forward Part of Gear

Train Positioned in Holding
Fixture
If a selective spacer was used. remove the spacer. Remove the forward clutch from the forward clutch
hub and ring gear (Fig. 50).
9. If thrust washer No. 3 (Fig.
50) did not come out with the
forward clutch, remove the thrust
washer from the forward clutch hub.
10. Remove the forward clutch
hub and ring gear from the front
planet carrier (Fig. 50).
11. Remove thrust washer No. 4
and the front planet carrier from
the input shell.
SUN GEAR
FORWARD CLUTCH
HUB AND
RING GEAR
INPUT SHELL
THRUST
NO. 5
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
FIG. 50- Forward Part of Gear Train Disassembled

REVERSE PLANET CARRIER
SPRING RETAINER
REVERSE RING GEAR

AND HUB
l ~-
'""" OAC'
"iJ
~<!"
THRUST WASHER NO . 7
LOW AND REVERSE DRUM
FIG. 51 -Lower Part of Gear Train Disassembled
ONE-WAY
CLUTCH
SPRINGS (12)
AND ROLLERS ( 1 2)
OUTER RACE
7-66
12. Remove the input shell, sun

gear and thrust washer No. 5 from
the holding fixture (Fig. 50).
13. From inside the transmission
case, remove thrust washer No. 6
(Fig. 51) from the top of the reverse
planet carrier.
14. Remove the reverse planet
carrier and thrust washer No. 7
from the reverse ring gear and hub
(Fig. 51).
15. Move the output shaft forward and with the tool shown in
Fig. 52 remove the reverse ring gear
hub to output shaft retaining ring.
16. Remove the reverse ring gear
and hub from the output shaft.
Remove thrust washer No. 8 from
the low and reverse drum.
17. Remove the low-reverse band
from the case (Fig. 53).
18. Remove the low-reverse drum
from the one-way clutch inner race
(Fig. 51).
19. Remove the one-way clutch
inner race by rotating the race
clockwise as it is removed.
20. Remove the 12 one-way
clutch rollers, springs and the spring
retainer from the outer race (Fig.
51). Do not lose or damage any of
the 12 springs or rollers. The outer
race of the one-way clutch cannot
be removed from the case until the
extension housing, output shaft and
OUTPUT SHAFT
GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR
013988

Governor Distributor Lock Ring
governor distributor sleeve are removed.
from the holding fixture. Position
the transmission on the bench in a
vertical position with the extension
housing up. Remove the four extension housing-to-case attaching bolts.
Remove the extension housing and
gasket from the case.
22. Pull outward on the output
shaft and remove the output shaft
and governor distributor assembly
from the governor distributor sleeve
(Fig. 54).
23. Remove the governor distributor lock ring from the output
shaft (Fig. 55). Remove the governor
distributor from the output shaft.
24. Remove the four distributor
sleeve-to-case attaching bolts. Remove the distributor sleeve from the
case. Do not bend or distort the oil
tubes as the tubes are removed from
the case with the distributor sleeve.
FIG. 57- Removing One-Way

Clutch Outer Race Attaching Bolts
25. Remove the parking pawl
return spring, pawl and retaining
pin from the case (Fig. 56).
26. Remove the parking gear and
thrust washer No. I0 from the case.
27. Remove the six one-way
clutch outer race to case attaching
bolts with the tool shown in Fig. 57.
As the bolts are removed, hold the
outer race l~cated inside the case in
position. Remove the outer race and
thrust washer No. 9 from the case
(Fig. 51).
PARTS REPAIR OR
REPLACEMENT
During the repair of the subassemblies, certain general instructions which apply to all units of the
transmissions must be followed.
SPRING
PARKING PAWL GEAR

Output Shaft and Governor
Distributor
D1399A
FIG. 56- Parking Pawl Mechanism

COVER SEAL
SERVO PISTON STEM
PISTON RETURN SPRING
PISTON AND SEAL

(SEAL BONDED TO PISTON)
COVER
01401-A
FIG. 58 - LowReverse Servo Disassembled

Low-Reverse Servo Piston
These instructions are given here to

avoid unnecessary repetition.
Handle all transmission parts
carefully to avoid nicking or burring
the bearing or mating surfaces.
Lubricate all internal parts of the
transmission before assembly with
clean automatic transmission fluid.
Do not use any other lubricants
except on gaskets and thrust washers
which mav be coated with vaseline
to facilitate assembly. Always install
new gaskets when assembling the
transmission.
Tighten all bolts and screws to
the recommended torque outlined
in the Specification Section.
FIG. 60 - Intermediate Servo Disassembled
FIG. 61 - Removing Intermediate

Servo Piston
TRANSMISSION CASE AND

LINKAGE REPAIR
Low-Reverse Servo
1. Remove the four servo cover
to case attaching bolts.
2. Remove the servo cover, cover
seal, servo piston and piston return
spring from the case (Fig. 58).
3. The servo piston seal is bonded
to the piston. If the seal has to be
replaced, replace the piston as. sembly which includes the seal. Disassemble the servo piston from the
piston rod by inserting a small
screwdriver in the hole of the piston
rod and removing the piston attach-
7-67
ing nut (Fig. 59). Position the spacer

on the piston stem if it was previously removed. Install the new servo
piston and torque the piston attaching nut to specification.
4. Place the piston return spring
in the servo bore of the case.
Lubricate the piston seal with clean
transmission fluid and install the
servo piston (Fig. 58).
5. Place a new cover seal on the
cover and install the servo cover.
Install the four cover attaching
bolts. Torque the cover to case retaining bolts to specification.
Intermediate Servo Repair
1. Remove the four servo coverto-case attaching bolts.
2. Remove the servo cover, gasket, servo piston, and piston return
spring from the case (Fig. 60).
3. Remove the intermediate servo
piston from the cover (Fig. 61).
4. Remove the seal rings from
the servo piston and cover.
5. Install a new seal on the cover
and servo piston. Lubricate the
seals with clean transmission oil.
Install the piston into the cover. Be
careful not to damage the piston
seal.
6. Install the piston return spring
in the servo bore of the case.
7. Place a new gasket on the
servo cover. Position the servo
piston and cover assembly into the
case making sure that the slot is in
a horizontal position to engage the
strut. Use two 1"s-18 bolts, 1~ inch
long, 180 apart, to position the
cover against the case. Install two
cover attaching bolts. Remove the
two I i inch bolts and install the
other two cover attaching bolts.
Torque the attaching bolts to
specification.
Downshift and Manual Linkage
I. Remove the downshift outer
lever attaching nut. Remove the
down~hift outer and inner levers.
From inside the transmission case.
remove the upper retaining ring and
flat washer from the manual lever
link (Fig. 64). Remove the upper
end of the lever link from the case
retaining pin
2. From the back of the transmission case, remove the upper
retaining ring and flat washer from
the parking pawl link (Fig. 62) .
Remove the pawl link from the case
retaining pin.
3. From the back of the transmiSSIOn case, remove the parking
pawl link, toggle rod, and manual
7-68

retaining pin. Install the flat washer
and retaining ring.
13. Operate the manual lever and
check for correct linkage operation.
14. Install the inner and outer
downshift levers. Torque the attaching nut to specifications.
FIG. 62- Parking Pawl Link

Installed

Parking Pawl Toggle Rod
lever link as an assembly (Fig. 63).
4. Remove the rear parking pawl
link lower retaining ring, flat washer
and link from the toggle rod (Fig.
64).
5. Remove the manual lever link
lower retaining ring, flat washer and
link from the toggle rod.
6. Remove the inner manual
lever attaching nut and lever.
Remove the outer manual lever
from the case.
7. To remove the manual lever
seal, use the tools shown in (Fig. 65).
To install the new seal, use the tool
shown in Fig. 66.
8. Install the outer manual lever
in the case. Install the inner
manual iever and attaching nut
with the chamfer facing toward the
lever (Fig. 64). Torque the nut to
specification.
9. From the back of the transmission case, install the parking
toggle rod and link assembly into
the case (Fig. 63).
10. Install the parking pawl link
on the case retaining pin. Install the
flat washer and link retaining ring
(Fig. 62).
11. Position the inner manual
lever behind the manual lever link,
with the cam of the lever contacting the lower link pin.
12. Install the upper end of the
manual lever link on the case
Thread Repair-Case. Thread

service kits may be purchased from
local suppliers. To repair a damaged
thread, the following procedures
should be carefully followed.
1. Drill out the damaged threads,
using the same drill size as the
thread OD. For example, use a -fginch drill for a -fk-18 thread.
2. Select the proper special tap
and tap the drilled hole. The tap is
marked for the size of the thread
being repaired. Thus, the special tap
marked -fs-18 will not cut the same
thread as a standard -fg-18 tap. lt
does cut a thread large enough to
accommodate the insert, and after
the insert is installed the original
thread size ( -fs-18) is restored.
3. Select the proper coil inserting
tool. These tools are marked with
the thread size being repaired. Place
the insert on the tool and adjust the
sleeve to the length of the insert
being used.
Press the insert against the face
of the tapped hole. Turn the tool
clockwise and wind the insert into
the hole until the insert is ! turn
below the face.
4. Working through the insert,
bend the insert tang straight up and
down until it breaks off at the notch.
INNER MANUAL LEVER
FIG. 64 - Case Linkage
D1408A
FIG. 65 - Removing Manual

Lever Seal
D1409-A
FIG. 66 - Installing Manual

Lever Seal
5. If the inserts are not properly
installed, they can be removed with
the extractor tool. Place the extractor tool in the insert so that the
blade rests against the top coil i to
! turn away from the end of the
coil. Tap the tool sharply with a
hammer so that the blade cuts into
the insert. Exert downward pressure
on the tool and turn it counter clockwise until the insert is removed.
MANUAL LEVER LINK
D1405-B
7-69
CONTROL VALVE BODY

Disassembly
When the main control is disassembled and the valve bodyto-screen gasket is removed the
gasket should not be cleaned in
a degreaser, solyent or any type
of detergent solution. To clean
the gasket, wipe it off with a
lint-free cloth.
1. Remove the eight screws that
attach the oil screen to the body and
remove the screen and gasket (Fig.
102). Be careful not to lose the
throttle pressure limit valve and
spring when separating the oil screen
from the valve body.
2. Remove the nine attaching
screws from the underside of the
lower valve body. Separate the lower
valve body, gasket, separator plate
and hold-down plate (Fig. 67) from
the upper valve body. Be careful not
to lose the upper valve body shuttle
valve and check valve when separating the upper and lower valve bodies.
3. Slide the manual valve out of
the body.
4. Carefully pry the low servo
modulator valve retainer from the
body and remove the retainer plug,
spring and valve from the body.
While working in the low servo
modulator valve bore, pry the downshift valve retainer from the body
and remove the spring and downshift
valve (Fig. 68).
5. Depress the throttle booster
plug and remove the retaining pin.
Remove the plug, valve and spring
(and ball on 250 2V and 302 2V).
6. Remove the cut-back valve and
transition valve cover plate from the
valve body (Fig. 68).
7. Remove the cut-back valve from
the body.
8. Remove the transition valve
spring, transition valve, 2-3 back-out
valve and spring from the body.
9. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and
2-3 shift valve cover plate from the
body.
10. Remove the 2-3 shift valve,
spring and throttle modulator valve
from the body.
11. Remove the 1-2 shift valve, D2'
valve and spring from the body.
12. Remove the intermediate servo
retaining pin and remove the intermediate accumulator retainer, valve
and spring from the body.
13. Press the main oil pressure
booster valve inward and remove the
retaining pin. Remove the main oil
pressure booster valve, sleeve,
ATTACHING
SCREWS
02074-A
LOWER
VALVE BODY
THROTTLE
PRESSURE
LIMIT VALVE
D207J.A
FIG. 67- Separating Upper and Lower Valve Bodies

springs, retainer and the main oil
pressure regulator valve.
14. Remove the line coasting boost
valve retainer from the body and
remove the spring and line coasting
boost valve.
Assembly
1. Place the two shuttle valves in
the lower body as shown in Fig. 67.
Position the gasket, separator plate
and hold-down plate on the lower
body and install the two attaching
screws. Torque the screws to specification.
2. Insert the downshift valve (Fig.
68) into the body with the small
diameter facing inward. Install the
downshift valve spring and retainer.
Insert the low servo modulator valve,
spring and retainer plug in the body.
Depress the plug and install the
retainer.
3. Place the throttle booster valve
spring (and ball on 250 2V and 302
2V), valve (small diameter end into
spring) and plug into the body (Fig.
68). Depress the plug and install the

retaining pin.
4. Place the spring, 2-3 back-out
valve and the transition valve and
spring in the body.
5. Place the cut-back valve in the
body.
6. Secure the cut-back and the
transition valve cover plate to the
body with the two attaching screws.
Torque the screws to specification.
7. Place the throttle modulator
valve, spring and 2-3 shift valve in
the body.
8. Place the springs, D2 valve and
the 1-2 shift valve in the body.
9. Secure the 1-2 shift valve and
the 2-3 shift valve cover plate to the
body with the three attaching screws.
Torque the screws to specification.
10. Place the spring, intermediate
servo accumulator valve and retainer
in the body. Depress the retainer and
install the retaining pin.
11. Insert the line coasting boost
valve and spring in the body. Depress
the spring and install the retainer.
7-70
2-3 SHIFT
VALVE
_..
..--1
i/ u~mM~:m
~
'-----TRANSITION
,_
VALVE
...
2-3 BACK-OUT VALVE
~:
/ v...
INTERMEDIATE
SERVO ACCUMULATOR
\ALVE
tlt~~s3~LE
REGULATOR
VALVE
tt.
/THROTTLE MODULATOR
VALVE
~l
3
.3
:'io
i;
----LJ~5s'tD1[~EG
RETAINER~ -
\,g ~
3 f(
i .----RETAINER
~
..,....,
><-
;.-
.....
it_ _
V'
PIN
H!
SLEEVE
MAINOIL
~ -------PRESSURE
..
~ -
i8J
BOOSTER
VALVE
D207S.A
FIG. 68- Upper Valve Body Disassembled

12. Insert the main oil pressure
regulator valve and spring retainer
in the body (Fig. 68). Install the two
springs, sleeve and the main oil
pressure booster valve in the body.
13. Hold the main oil pressure
booster valve in place and install the
retaining pin.
14. Slide the manual valve into the
valve body. Make sure that the end
with the two lands closest together is
inserted first.
15. Position the rubber ball shuttle
valve and servo check valve in the
upper valve body (Fig. 67).
16. Position the lower valve body
in place on the upper valve body and
secure it with the nine attaching
screws. Torque the screws to specification.
17. Position the throttle pressure
limit valve and spring in the lower
valve body (Fig. 67). Place the gasket
and oil screen in position on the lower
valve body and secure with the eight
attaching screws. Torque the screws
to specification.
FRONT PUMP
1. Remove the four seal rings
from the stator support .

2. Remove the five bolts that
attach the stator support to the
front pump housing. Remove the
stator support from the pump
housing (Fig. 69).
3. Remove the drive and driven
gears from the front pump housing.
4. Install the drive and driven
gears in the pump housing. Each
gear has an identification mark on
the side of the gear teeth that are
chamfered. The chamfered side with
the identification mark has to be
positioned downward against the face
of the pump housing.
5. Place the stator support in the

pump housing and install the five
attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to
specifications.
6. Install the four seal rings on
the stator support. Two large rings
are assembled first in the ring
grooves toward the front of the
stator support.
7. Check the pump gears for free
rotation by placing the pump on the
converter drive hub in its normal
running position and turning the
pump housing.
8. If the front pump seal must be
replaced , mount the pump in the
transmission case and remove the
seal with the tool shown in Fig. 70.
To install the new seal use the tool
shown in Fig. 71.
7-71
D1418-A
FIG. 70 - Removing Front Pump

Seal
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
1. Remove the pressure clutch
plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 72).

2. Remove the pressure plate, and
the drive and driven clutch plates.
(Fig. 73). If the composition clutch
plates are to be reused, do not clean
the plates in a vapor degreaser or
with a detergent solution. Wipe the
plates clean with lint-free cloth.
3. To remove the piston spring
retainer snap ring, place the clutch
hub in the arbor press. With the
tools shown in Fig. 74, compress
the piston return spring and remove
the snap ring. When the arbor press
ram is released , guide the spring
retainer to clear the snap ring
groove of the drum.
4. Remove the spring retainer
and piston return spring.
5. Remove the piston by inserting
air pressure in the piston apply hole
of the clutch hub (Fig. 75).
FIG. 71 - Installing Front Pump
FIG. 72 - Removing Reverse-High

Clutch Snap Ring
PUMP ASS EMBLY 7AI03

I
PUMP HOUSING
STATOR SUPPORT 7A108
FRONT PUMP SEAL

7A248
SEAL RINGS
()
DRIVE GEAR
) ..
f~
-b
~.,
I~' =\1
+
DRIVEN GEAR
SELECTIVE
THRUST WASHERS
GASKET 7A136
D 1894-C
FIG. 69- Front Pump and Stator Support Disassembled
7-72
REVERSE AND HIGH

CLUTCH CYLINDER
SPRIN G RETAI NER
PI STON
L\
~
PIS TON SEALS
PISTON
RETU RN SPR ING
SNAP RIN G
DRIVEt; PLATES
PRESSURE PLATE
01897-B
FIG. 73 - Reverse-High Clutch Disassembled
FIG. 75- Removing Reverse-High

Clutch Piston
Tool T 65 L 77515 A
D 1591.8
FIG. 74- Removing or Installing Clutch Piston Spring

Retainer Snap Ring
6. Remove the piston outer seal
from the piston and the piston inner
seal from the clutch drum.
7. Install a new inner seal in the
clutch drum and a new outer seal
on the clutch piston (Fig. 73).
Lubricate the seals with clean transmission fluid and install the piston
into the clutch drum.
8. Place the clutch piston spring
into position on the clutch piston.
Place the spring retainer on top
of the spring. To install the snap
ring, use the tools shown in
Fig. 74. As the press ram is moved
downward, make sure the spring
retainer is centered to clear the
drum. Install the snap ring. Before
the press ram is released make sure
the snap ring is positioned inside
of the four snap ring guides on the
spring retainer.
9. When new composition clutch
plates are used , soak the plates in
transmission oi l for fifteen minutes
before the plates are assembled.
Install the clutch plates alternately
by starting first with a steel plate

then a non-metallic plate (Fig. 73).
The last plate installed is the
pre!isure plate. For the correct
number of clutch plates required
for each transmission model, refer
to specifications.
10. Install the pressure plate
retaining snap ring (Fig. 72). Make
sure the snap ring is fully seated in
the snap ring groove of the clutch
hub.
11. With a feeler gauge, check
the clearance between the snap
ring and the pressure plate (Fig. 76).
12. The pressure plate should be
held downward as the clearance is
checked . The clearance should be
0.050 to 0.071 inch . If the clearance is
not within specifications, selective
thickness snap rings are available in
these thicknesses, 0.050-0.054, 0.0640.068, 0.078-0.082 and 0.092-0.096
inch . Install the correct size snap ring
and recheck the clearance .
FIG. 76- Checking Reverse-High

Clutch Snap Ring Clearance
FIG. 77. - Removing Forward

Clutch Pressure Plate Snap Ring
7-73
PISTON SEALS
DRIVE PLATES
SNAP RING
PISTON
DISC SPRING
DRIVEN PLATES
FORWARD CLUTCH CYLINDER
01425-A
FIG. 78 - Forward Clutch Disassembled
FIG. 79 -Removing or Installing

Disc Spring Snap Ring
FIG. 81- Checking Forward

Clutch Snap Ring Clearance
RING GEAR
01428-A
FIG. 82 - Forward Clutch Hub

and Ring Gear Disassembled
EXTERNAL SNAP RING
FIG. 80 - Removing Forward

Clutch Piston
FORWARD CLUTCH
1. Remove the clutch pressure
plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 77).
2. Remove the pressure plate,
and the drive and driven clutch
plates from the clutch hub (Fig. 78).
3. Remove the disc spring retaining snap ring (Fig. 79).
4. Apply air pressure at the clutch
piston pressure hole (Fig. 80), to
remove the piston from the clutch
hub.

Sun Gear External Snap Ring
5. Remove the clutch piston

outer seal and the inner seal from
the clutch hub (Fig. 78).
6. Install new clutch piston seals
on the clutch piston and drum.
Lubricate the seals with clean transmission fluid.
7. Install the clutch piston into
the clutch hub. Install the steel ring
on the piston. Install the disc spring
and retaining snap ring (Fig. 79).
8. Install the lower pressure plate
with the flat side up and radius side
downward.
Install one non-metallic clutch
plate and alternately install the drive
and driven plates. The last plate
installed will be the top pressure
plate (Fig. 78). Refer to Specification Section for the correct number
of clutch plates for the applicable
model transmission.
9. Install the pressure plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 77). Make
sure the snap ring is fully seated in
the ring groove of the clutch hub.
10. With a feeler gauge, check
the clearance between the snap ring
and the pressure plate (Fig. 81).
Downward pressure on the plate
should be used when making this
check. The clearance should be
0.025-0.050.
11. If the clearance is not within
specifications, selective snap rings
are available in these thicknesses,
0.050-0.054, 0.064-0.068, 0.0780.082 and 0.092-0.096 inch. Insert
the correct size snap ring and
recheck the clearance.
FORWARD CLUTCH HUB
AND RING GEAR
hub retaining snap ring (Fig. 82).
hub from the ring gear.
3. Install the forward clutch hub
in the ring gear. Make sure the hub
7-74
EXTERNAL SNAP RING

INPUT SHELL
SUN GEAR
FIG. 84- Input Shell and Sun Gear Disassembled
FIG. 85 - Reverse Ring Gear and

Hub Disassembled

Retaining Ring
ERNOR fi OUS IN(,

GOVERNOR ASS EMBLY - 7(063
FIG. 86 - Governor and Oil Distributor
01907-B
is bottomed in the groove of the

ring gear.
4. Install the front clutch hub
retaining snap ring. Make sure the
snap ring is fully seated in the snap
ring groove of the ring gear.
INPUT SHELL AND SUN GEAR
1. Remove the external snap ring
from the sun gear (Fig. 83).
2. Remove thrust washer No. 5
from the input shell and sun gear
(Fig. 84).
3. From inside the input shell,
remove the sun gear. Remove the
internal snap ring from the sun
gear.
4. Install the internal snap ring
on the sun gear. Install the sun gear
in the input shell.
5. Install thrust washer No. 5 on
the sun gear and input shell (Fig.
84).
6. Install the external snap ring
on the sun gear (Fig. 83).
REVERSE RING GEAR
AND HUB
1. ~emove the hub retaining
snap rmg from the reverse ring gear.
2. Remove the hub from the
reverse ring gear (Fig. 85).
3. Install the hub in the reverse
ring gear. Make sure the hub is fully
seated in the groove of the ring gear.
4. Install the snap ring in the
reverse ring gear. Make sure the
snap ring is fully seated in the snap
ring groove of the ring gear.
GOVERNOR AND OIL
DISTRIBUTOR
1. Remove the rings from the
governor oil distributor (Fig. 86).
2. Remove the governor housing
to distributor attaching bolts.
Remove the governor from the oil
distributor. Remove the governor
oil screen.
3. Remove the primary governor
valve retaining ring (Fig. 87).
Remove the washer, spring, and
primary governor valve from the
housing.
4. Remove the secondary governor valve spring retaining clip,
spring, and governor valve from
the housing.
5. Install the secondary governor
valve in the housing. Install the
spring and retaining clip. Make
sure the clip is installed with the
small concaved area facing downward, to hold the spring in the
correct position.
6. Install the primary governor
7-75
Transmission Case
1. If the transmission case bushing is to be replaced, press the bus.ning out of the case with the tool
shown in Fig. 88.
2. Install a new transmission case
bushing with the tool shown in
Fig. 88.
REMOVAL
FIG. 88 - Replacing Transmission Case Bushing

valve in the housing. Install the
spring, washer and retaining ring.
Make sure the washer is centered in
the housing on top of the spring and
the retaining ring is fully seated in
the ring groove of the housing.
7. Install the governor oil screen.
8. Install the governor assembly
on the oil distributor and torque
the attaching bolts to specification.
9. Install the rings on the distributor. Check the rings for free
rotation in the ring grooves of the
oil distributor.
FIG. 89 - Removing Stator

Support Bushings
BUSHfiNG REPLACE~NT
A service bushing remover and
replacer kit has been released for
the C4 transmission. The kit contains a handle, cape chisel and
various adapters to remove and
install the precision bushings in the
transmission. If it is necessary to
replace a bushitig, the following
procedures should be used.
Front Pump Stator Support

1. Remove the front and rear
stator support bushings if they are
worn or damaged. Use the cape
chisel (Fig. 89) and cut along the
bushing seam until the chisel breaks
through the bushing wall. Pry the
loose ends of the bushing up with
an awl and remove the bushing.
2. Press new bushings into the
stator support with the tool shown
in Fig. 90. Use the long end of the
tool for the front bushing and the
short end for the rear bushing.
When installing the rear bushing, be
sure the hole in the bushing is lined
up with the lube hole in the stator
support.
Front Pump Housing
1. Press the bushing from the
front pump housing as shown in
Fig. 91.
Press a new bushing into the
pump housing with the handle and
tool shown in Fig. 91. Make sure
the bushing is installed with the slot
and groove positioned to the rear of
the pump body and 60 degrees
below the horizontal centre line.
Reverse-High Clutch
1. Remove the drum bushing if
it is worn or damaged. Use the cape
chisel (Fig. 92) and cut a shallow
groove ! inch in length along the
REMOVAL
FIG. 90 - Installing Stator

Support Bushings
FIG. 91 -Replacing Front Pump Housing Bushing
INSTALLATION
D 1 732 A
776

Hondle
REMOVAL
D 1737 - A
FIG. 92 - Removing Reverse-High

Clutch Bushing
FIG. 95 - Replacing Sun Gear

Bushings
through the bushing walL Pry the
an awl and remove the bushing. To
prevent leakage at the stator support 0-rings, be careful not to nick
or damage the hub surface with the
chiseL
2. Position the drum in a press,
and press a new bushing into the
drum with the handle and tool
shown in Fig. 93.
FIG. 96 - Installing Low and

Reverse Brake Drum Bushing
Forward Clutch Hub

1. Press the bushing from the
clutch hub as shown in Fig. 94.
2. Install a new bushing into the
clutch hub as shown in Fig. 94.
Jo 1735 - A I
FIG. 93 - Installing Reverse-High

Clutch Bushing
Sun Gear
1. If the sun gear bushings are to
be replaced, use the tool shown in
Fig. 95 and press both bushings
through the gear.
2. Press a new bushing into each
end of the sun gear with the tool
shown in Fig. 95 .
FIG. 94 - Replacing Forward Clutch Hub Bushing
BOITOM
OF CASE
01437- A
FIG. 97 - Number 9 Thrust

Washer Location
FIG. 98 - Installing One-Way

Clutch Outer Race Attaching Bolt

Low and Reverse Brake Drum
1. Replace the low and reverse
brake drum bushing if it is worn or
damaged. To remove the bushing,
use the cape chisel and cut along the
through the bushing wall. Pry the
2. Install a new bushing with the
tool shown in Fig. 96.
ASSEMBLY OF
TRANSMISSION
When assembling the transmission
sub-assemblies (Fig. 102), make sure
sure that the correct thrust washer
is used between certain subassemblies. Vaseline should be used to
hold the thrust washers in their
proper location. Lubricate thrust
RETURN SPRING
PARKING PAWL
washers, bushings and journal with

automatic transmission fluid. If the
end play is not within specifications, after the transmission is
assembled, either the wrong selective thrust washers were used, or a
thrust washer came out of position
during the transmission assembly
operation.
1. Install thrust washer No. 9
inside the transmission case (Fig. 97).
2. Place the one-way clutch outer
race inside the case. From the back
of the case install the six outer race
to case attaching bolts. Torque the
bolts to specification with the tools
shown in Fig. 98.
3. Place the transmission case in
a vertical position with the back
face of the case upward. Install the
parking pawl retaining pin in the
case (Fig. 99).
4. Install the parking pawl on
the case retaining pin. Install the
parking pawl return spring as shown
in Fig. 99.
on the parking pawl gear (Fig. 100).
Place the gear and thrust washer on
the back face of the case (Fig. 99).
6. Place the two fluid distributor
tubes in the governor distributor
sleeve. Install the distributor sleeve
on the case. As the distributor sleeve
is installed, the tubes have to be
inserted in the two holes in the case
FIG. 99- Parking Pawl and

Gear
RETAINS REVERSE RING GEAR AND

HUB TO OUT?UT SHAFT
RETAINS GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR

TO OUTPU fSHAFT
01549-A
D1441-A

Washer Location
FIG. 101 -Governor and Reverse

Ring Gear and Hub Snap Ring
ldentificatton
7-77
and the parking pawl retaining pin

has to be inserted in the alignment
hole in the distributor sleeve.
7. Install the four governor distributor sleeve-to-case attaching
bolts and torque the bolts to
specification.
8. Install the governor distributor
assembly on the output shaft. Install
the distributor retaining snap ring.
Fig. 101 shows the correct snap ring
that is to be used.
9. Check the rings in the governor distributor, making sure that
they are fully inserted in the grooves
and will rotate freely. Install the
output shaft and governor distributor assembly in the distributor
sleeve (Fig. 54).
10. Place a new extension housing gasket on the case. Install the
extension housing, vacuum tube
clip, and the extension housing-tocase attaching bolts. Torque the
11. Place the transmission in the
holding fixture with the front pump
mounting face of the case up. Make
sure thrust washer No. 9 is still
located at the bottom of the transmission case (Fig. 97).
12. Install the one-way clutch
spring retainer into the outer race
(Fig. 103).
13. Install the inner race inside
of the spring retainer.
14. Install the individual springs
between the inner and outer race as
shown in Fig. I 03.
15. Starting at the back of the
transmission case, install the oneway clutch rollers by slightly compressing each spring and positioning
the roller between the spring and
the spring retainer.
16. After the one-way clutch has
been assembled rotate the inner race
clockwise to center the rollers and
springs. Install the low and reverse
drum (Fig. 102). The splines of the
drum have to engage with the
splines of the one-way clutch inner
race. Check the one-way clutch
operation by rotating the low and
reverse drum. The drum should
rotate clockwise but should not
rotate counter-clockwise.
17. Install thrust washer No.8 on
top of the low and reverse drum
(Fig. I04). Install the low-reverse
band in the case, with the end of
the band for the small strut toward
the low-reverse servo (Fig. 53).
18. Install the reverse ring gear
and hub on the output shaft.
19. Move the output shaft forward and install the reverse ring
7-78
-----..
'I
\
________ ..,.
36
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
CONVERTER
INPUT SHAFT
CONVERTER HOUSING
FRONT PUMP
THRUST WASHER NO. I
THRUST WASHER NO. 2
FRONT PUMP GASKET
INTERMEDIATE BAND
BAND STRUTS
REVERSE AND HIGH
CLUTCH DRUM
11. FORWARD CLUTCH AND
CYLINDER
12. THRUST WASHER NO. 3
13. FORWARD CLUTCH HUB

AND RING GEAR
15. FRONT PLANET CARRIER
21 REVERSE RING GEAR

AND HUB
22. tow AND REVERSE BAND
23. BAND STRUTS
25. LOW AND REVERSE DRUM

16. INPUT SHELL, SUN GEAR
AND THRUST WASHER NO. S 26. ONEWAY CLUTCH
INNER RACE
17. THRUST WASHER Nd. 6
27. ROLLER (12) AND SPRING (12)
18. REVERSE PLANET CARRIER
28. SPRING AND ROLLER CAGE
19. THRU:.r WASHER NO. 7
29. ONEWAY CLUTCH OUTER
20. SNAP RING
RACE
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
THRUST WASHER NO. 9

CASE
THRUST WASHER NO. 10
PARKING GEAR
GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR
SLEEVE
SNAP RING
GOVERNOR VAL YES &
DISTRIBUTOR
OUTPUT SHAFT
EXTENSION HOUSING AND GASKET
CONTROL VALVE BODY
OIL PAN AND GASKET
D 1378-8
FIG. 102 - Transmission Sub-Assemblies
STEP-1
7-79
STEP-2
INSTALL SPRING RETAINER INTO OUTER RACE
INSTALL INNER RACE
STE P-3
INSTALL 12 ROLLERS
INSTALL 12 SPRINGS
01551-A
FIG. 103 -One-Way Clutch Installation

gear hub to output shaft retaining
ring (Fig. 52).
20. Place thrust washers Nos. 6
and 7 on the reverse planet carrier
(Fig. 105).
21. Install the planet carrier in
the reverse ring gear and engage the
tabs of the carrier with the slots in
the low-reverse drum.
22. On the bench, install the forward clutch in the reverse-high
clutch by rotating the units to mesh
the reverse-high clutch plates with
the splines of the forward clutch

(Fig. 106).
23. Using the end play check
reading that was obtained during
the transmission disassembly to
determine which No. 2 steel backed
thrust washer is required, proceed
as follows:
a. Position the stator support
vertically on the work bench and
install the correct No. 2 thrustwasher or washer and spacer to
bring the end play within speci-
fications .
b. Install the reverse-high clutch
and the forward clutch on the stator
support.
c. Invert the complete unit making sure that the intermediate brake
drum bushing is seated on the forward clutch mating surface.
d. Select the thickest nylon washer
(No. 1) that can be inserted between
the stator support and the intermediate brake drum thrust surfaces
and still maintain a slight clearance.
7-80
FORWARD CLUTCH HUB

AND RING GEAR
THRUST WASHER
FORWARD
CLUTCH
D1443-A

Washer Location
Do not select a washer that must
be forced between the stator support and intermediate brake drum.
e. Remove the intermediate brake
drum and forward clutch unit from
the stator support.
f. Install the selected Nos. 1 and
2 thrustwashers on the front pump
stator support (Fig. 43) using
enough vaseline to hold the thrust
washers in position during the front
pump installation.
on the forward clutch (Fig. 107).
25. Install the forward clutch hub
and ring in the forward clutch by
rotating the units to mesh the for-
REVERSE-HIGH
CLUTCH
D1439-A
FIG. 106 - Installing Clutch Units

D1454-A
FIG. 108 - Installing Forward

Clutch Hub and Ring Gear

Washer Location

Washer Location
ward clutch plates with the splines
on the forward clutch hub (Fig.
108).
.--- j
REVERSE PLANET CARRIER
THRUST WASHER NO. 6
FIG. 105- Number 6 and 7 Thrust Washer Location
D1444-A

on the front planet carrier (Fig.
109). Install the front planet carrier
into the forward clutch hub and
ring gear. Check the forward thrust
bearing race inside the planet carrier
for proper location against the thrust
bearing. Make sure the race is centered for alignment with the sun
gear on the input shell.
27. Install the input shell and
sun gear on the gear train (Fig. Ill).
Rotate the input shell to engage the
drive lugs of the reverse-high clutch.

FRONT PlANET
CARRIER
FORWARD ClUTCH
HUB AND
GEAR
7-81
INPUT SHEll
AND SUN GEAR
FORWARD
ClUTCH
FIG. 112 - Installing Vacuum

Unit
01456-A
01455-A
FIG. 110 - Installing Front

Planet Carrier
If the drive lugs will not engage,
the outer race inside the forward
planet carrier is not centered to
engage the end of the sun gear inside the input shell. Center the thrust
bearing race and install the input
shell.
28. Hold the gear tram togetht:r
and install the forward part of the
gear train assembly in the case
(Fig. 48).
The input shell sun gear must
mesh with the reverse pinion gears.
The front planet carrier internal
splines must mesh with the splines
on the output shaft.
29. A new band should be soaked
in transmission fluid for fifteen
minutes before it is installed. Install
the intermediate band through the
front of the case (Fig. 46) so that
the arrow on the band end forging,
points toward the front of the
transmission.
30. Install a new front pump
gasket on the case. Line up the bolt
holes in the gasket with the holes in
the case.
31. Install the front pump stator
FIG. 111 - Installing Input Shell

support into the reverse-high clutch.
Align the pump-to-case attaching
bolt holes. Fit bolts and torque to
specifications.
32. Position the converter housing on the case. Install all but one
front housing to case attaching bolt
and torque them to specifications.
33. Install the input-shaft (Fig.
44). Be sure the short splined end is
installed toward the rear of the
transmission.
Rotate the holding fixture to
place the transmission in a horizontal position. Check the transmission end play as shown in Fig.
42. If the end play is not within
specification, either the wrong selective thrust washers (Fig. 43) were
used, or one of the I 0 thrust
washers (Fig. 102) is not properly
positioned.
34. Remove the dial indicator
used for checking the en<1 play and
install the one converter housingto-case attaching bolt. Torque the
bolt to specification.
35. Install the intermediate and
low-reverse band adjusting screws
in the case. Install the struts for
each band (Fig. 41).
36. Adjust the intermediate and
low-reverse band. Refer to In-Car

Adjustments and Repair for band
adjusting procedures.
37. Install a universal joint yoke
on the output shaft. Rotate the input and output shafts in both directions to check for free rotation of
the gear train.
38. Install the control valve body
(Fig. 40) as described in In-Car
Adjustments and Repairs.
39. Place a new oil pan gasket
on the case and install the oil pan
and oil pan-to-case attaching bolts.
from the holding fixture. Install the
two extension housing-to-case
attaching bolts. Torque the bolts
to specification.
41. Install the primary throttle
valve in the transmission case (Fig.
38).
42. Install the vacuum unit, gasket, and control rod in the case.
Using the tools shown in Fig. 112,
install the vacuum unit .
43. Make sure the iuput shaft is
properly iustalled iD the front pump
stator support and gear train. Install
the converter in the front pump and
the converter housing. The short
spline end of the shaft should be
installed to the rear of the transmission.
7-82
PART
7-3
FMX AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Sedloa
Pale
1 Diagnosis and Testing ..... . .......... 7- 82
2 Common Adjustments and Repairs .. 7- 88
3 Cleaning and Inspection .......... 7-89
4 Description .............. 7- 9.5
Seedoa
Page
S In-Car Adjustment and Repain ......... 7-103
6 Removal and Installation ................. 7-108
7 Major Repair Operations ................... 7-109
When diagnosing transmission problems, first refer to the diagnosis guide

for the detailed information on the
items that could be causing the problem.
The following preliminary checks
should be m!!tle before proceeding
with other diagnosis checks.

Check the transmission fluid level.
Low fluid level can affect the operation of the transmission, and may
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL CHECK
TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEAKAGE CHECKS

standing level. Then firmly apply the
parking brake.
cold run the engine at fast idle speed
reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm,
speed.
all positions. and place the lever at
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before removing the dipstick from the filler tube.
S. Pull the dipstick out of the
the way back into the tube. Be sure
it is properly seated.
tube again, and check the fluid level.
If necessary, add enough fluid to
the transmission through the filler
tube to raise the fluid level to the
F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do
not overfill the transmission. Install
the dipstick, making sure: it is fully
seated in the tube.
FLUID AERATION CHECK

l:ause the fluid to become aerated :
Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Replace

the rubber seal if necessary.
Leakage at the oil pan gasket often
can be stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to the proper torque. If
necessary, replace the gasket.
Check the fluid filler tube connection at the transmission. If leakage
is found here, install a new 0-ring.
Check the fluid lines and fittings
between the transmission and the
cooler in the radiator tank for looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage
cannot be stopped by tightening a
fitting, replace the defective parts.
radiator. If transmission fluid is present in the coolant, the cooler in the
radiator is probably leaking.
for leaks by disconnecting the lines
from the cooler fittings and applying
50-75 psi air pressure to the fittings .
Remove the radiator cap to relieve
the pressure build at the exterior of
the oil cooler tank. If the cooler is
leaKing and will not hold this pressure
the cooler must be replaced . Cooler
replacement is described in the Cooling System Section of Group II.
If leakage is found at either the
downshift control lever shaft or the
manual lever shaft, replace either or
both seals.
Inspect the pipe plug on the left
side of the transmission case at the
front. If the plug shows leakage,
torque the plug to specifications. If
tightening does not stop the leaks. replace the plug.
When converter drain plugs leak,
remove drain plugs with a six-point
wrench . Coat the threads with FoMoCo Perfect Seal Sealing Compound or its equivalent, and install
the plugs. Torque the drain plugs to
specification. Fluid leakage from the
converter housing may be caused by
engine oil leaking past the rear main
bearing or from oil gallery plugs, or
power steering oil leakage from steering system. Be sure to determine the
exact cause of the leak before repair
procedures are started.
Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent
dyes premixed at the rate of I /2 teaspoon of dye powder to I /2 pint of
transmission fluid have proved helpful
in locating the source of the fluid
leakage. Such dyes may be used to
determine whether an engine oil or
transmission fluid leak is present or
if the fluid in the oil cooler leaks into
the engine coolant system . A black
light. however. must be used with the
fluorescent dye solution.
FLUID LEAKAGE IN
CONVERTER AREA
leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures
to facilitate locating the exact ca use
of the leakage . Leakage at the front
of -transmission, as evidenced by
fluid around the converter housing.
may have several sources. By ca reful
PART 7-3 F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

observation, it is possible, in many
instances, to pinpoint the source of
the leak before removing the transmission from the vehicle. The paths
which the fluid. takes to reach the bottom of the converter housing are
shown in Fig. I.
I. Fluid leaking by the front pump
seal lip will tend to move along the
drive hub and onto the back of the
impeller housing. Except in the case
of a total seal failure, fluid leakage
by the lip of the seal will be deposited
on the inside of the converter housing
only, near the outside diameter of the
housing.
body will follow the same path which
leaks by the front pump seal.
3. Fluid that leaks by a front pump
to case bolt will be deposited on the
inside of the converter housing only.
Fluid will not be deposited on the
back of the converter.
7-83
Til
[
CR~~ ~[
~I
FRONT PUMP SEAL LEAK

case gasket may cause fluid to be
deposited inside the converter housing, or it may seep down between the
front of the case and converter housing. Fluid on the front of the case
above the pan gasket is evirlence that
the front pump to case gasket or seal
could be leaking.
S. Fluid leakage from the converter drain plugs will appear at the outside diameter of the converter on the
back face of the flywheel, and in the
converter housing only near the flywheel.
Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission
front pump seal leaks. The following
areas of possible leakage should also
be checked to determine if engine oil
leakage is causing the problem .
1. Leakage at the rocker arm cover
(valley cover) may allow oil to flow
over the converter housing or seep
down between the converter housing
and cylinder block causing oil to be
present in or at the bottom of the
converter housing.
2. Oil galley plug leaks will allow
oil to flow down the rear face of the
block to the bottom of the converter
housing.
3. Leakage by the crankshaft seal
will work back to the flywheel, and
then into the converter housing.
such as the power steering system
forward of the transmission, could
converter housing due to blow back
CONVERTER DRAIN PLUG LEAK
0 13118
FIG. 1-Typical Convertor Area Leakage Checks

or road draft.
The following procedures should
be used to determine the cause of the
leakage before any repairs are made.
1. Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid.
from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of makeup fluid has been added or the fluid
has been changed, the red color
should assist in pinpointing the leak.
Fluid used in the power steering system
is
a
red
dye. Since
road draft may cause leaking power
steering fluid to be pr-:sent on the
transmission, this leakage, if present,
should be eliminated before checking
the transmission for fluid leakage.
2. Remove the converter housing
cover. Clean off any fluid from the

top and bottom of the converter
housing, front of the transmission
case, and rear face of the engine and
engine oil pan . Clean the converter
area by washing with carbon tetrachloride or other suitable non-flammable solvent, and blow dry with
compressed air .
3. Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel, and
the converter drain plugs. The converter housing may be washed out
using cleaning solvent and a squirttype oil can. Blow all washed areas
dry with compressed air.
4. Start and run the engine until
the transmission reaches iis normal
operating temperature . Observe the
back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid
7-84
leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist

and run the engine at fast idle, then at
engine idle, occasionally shifting to
the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far
as possible), 3nd inside the converter
housing and front of the transmission
case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source
of leakage can be determined .
~ STEEL PLATE
o/a X 1 .;
DRILL TO SUIT
CONVERTER LEAKAGE
CHECK
During the above fluid leakage
checks, if there are indications that
the welds on the torque converter are
leaking, the converter will have to be
removed and the following check
made before the unit is replaced.
A leak checking tool (Fig. 2) can
be made from standard parts. The
tool can be used to check all converters .
I. Install the plug in the converter
(Fig . 3) and expand it by tightening
the wing nut. Attach the safety
chains.
2. Install the air valve in one of the
drain plug holes.
3. Introduce air pressure into the
converter. Check the pressure with a
tire gauge and adjust it to 20 psi.
4. Place the converter in a tank
of water. Observe the weld areas for
bubbles . If no bubbles are observed,
it may be assumed that the welds are
not leaking.

Check and, if necessary, adjust the
engine idle speed, using the procedure given in Group 10.
If the idle speed is too low, the engine will run roughly . An idle speed
that is too high will cause the vehicle
to creep when the transmission is
shifted into gear and will cause
rough transmission engagement.

Correct manual linkage adjustment is necessary to position the
manual valve for proper fluid pressure
direction to the different transmission
components.
Improperly
adjusted
manual linkage may cause crossleakage and subsequent transmission
failure. Refer to Linkage Adjustments in

7-22 for detailed
manual linkage adjustment procedures.
SPACER-
82Q-9438-A
RUBBER PLUG
1 Y2 DIA. X 2
LONG Y2
HOLE THRU
APPROXIMATELY
40 DUROMETER
PLUG
CHAIN, 10' LONG
STANOARD
VALVI
WELD TOGETHER
SECURELY -MUST
NOT LEAK
STANDARD BOLT
Y2-13 X -4 1/2
LONG SQUARE
THREAD END
REMOVE HEAD
AND WELD TO
WASHER
STANDARD l/8" FITTING-87971 S FOR

RETAPPED DRAIN PLUG THREADSUSE
l / 4" OVERSIZE FITTING-87973S
D l067 B
FIG. 2- Converter Leak Checking Tool

engine and a vacuum gauge to the
transmission vacuum line at the
vacuum unit (Fig. 4).
2. Attach the pressure gauge to the
and start the engine .
............. Tire Preuure Gauge
D106--A
FIG. 3 - Typical Converter Leak

Checking Tool
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM UNIT
CHECK

the specified rpm. If the engine idle
speed cannot be brought within limits by adjustment at the carburetor
idle adjustment screw, check the
throttle and downshift linkage for a
binding condition. If the linkage is
satisfactory, check for vacuum leaks
in the transmission diaphragm unit
(Fig. 6) and its connecting tubes and
hoses. Check all other vacuum operated units (such as the power brake)
for vacuum leaks.
VACUUM UNIT CHECK
When the vacuum diaphragm unit

is operating properly and the downshift linkage is adjusted properly, all
the transmission shifts (automatic and
kickdown) should occur within the
road speed limits specified in

page 7-126
If the shifts do iiot occur within
limits or the transmission slips during
shift point, the following procedure
is suggested to determine engine,
transmission, linkage, vacuum diaphragm unit or valve body problems.
To check the vacuum unit for diaphragm leakage, remove the unit
from the: transmission . Use a distributor tester equipped with a vacuum
pump (Fig. 6). Set the regulator
knob so that the vacuum gauge reads
18 inches with the end of the vacuum
hose blocked off.
Then connect the ~acuum hose to
the transmission vacuum unit. If the
gauge sti II reads 18 inches, the vacuum unit diaphragm is not leaking.
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

As the hose is removed from the
transmission vacuum unit, hold a finger over the end of the control rod.
When the hose is removed, the internal spring of the vacuum unit should
push the control rod outward .
lease the accelerator ped<1l quickly

and observe the vacuum gauge . The
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTSThe test results of the following

checks should agree with the specifications given in Fig. 7. When per..
forming control pressure tests, make
certain that the service brake pedal
is held in the applied position. When
the transmission detent position of D
is used, position the selector lever
at D on the quadrant.
'-"\'NG ~
!3~~---
~2"-.j -
MANIFOLD
VACUUM
LINE HOSE
FIG. 5 - Vacuum Diaphragm

and Control Pressure Connecting
Point
amount of vacuum should decrease
and increase 'with the changes in
throttle openings . If the vacuum response to changes in throttle opening is too slow the vacuum line to
the diaphragm unit could be restricted. Make the necessary repairs before completing the test.
3. At engine idle, check the transmission control pressure gauge at all
selector lever positions. Transmission
control pressures should agree with
the specifications shown in Figs. 7).
FIG. 4 - Typical Vacuum Test

Line Connections
2. At engine idle, depress and re-
Control Pressure is High at

Engine Idle (Test No. 1)
If transmission control pressure at
engine idle is too high in all ranges,
the trouble may be in the diaphragm
unit or its connecting vacuum tubes
and hoses, throttle valve, or control
rod .
With the engine idling, disconnect
lhe hose from the diaphragm unit
and check the engine manifold vacuum . Hold a thumb over the end of
the hose and check for vacuum. If
the engine speeds up when the hose
is disconnected and slows down as
the thumb is held against the end of
the hose, the vacuum source is satisfactory .
Stop the engine, and remove the
diaphragm unit and the diaphragm
unit control rod . Inspect the control
rod for a bent condition and for corrosion. Check the diaphragm unit for
leakage with the distributor tester
(Fig. 6).
TEST NUMBER-2 CONTROL
PRESSURE CHECK AT 10
INCHES OF VACUUM
A control pressure check should be
made at 10 inches of vacuum in all
forward drive ranges.
Advance the throttle until the engine vacuum reading is 10 inches and
check the control pressure regulation. Control pressure should be as
shown in Figs. 7
Control Pressure Not Within

Limits at 10 inches of
Vacuum (Test No. 2)
TEST NUMBER-I CONTROL

PRESSURE CHECK-AT
ENGINE IDLE
I. With the transmission in neutral, and the engine at the correct
idle speed, the vacuum gauge should
show a mimimum of 18 inches. If the
vacuum reading is lower than 18
inches, an engine problem is indicated or there is leakage in the vacuum line . Make necessary repairs to
obtain a minimum vacuum reading of
18 inches .
At different altitudes above sea lev
el, it ma y not be possible to obtain
18 inches vacuum at engine idle . At
these altitudes, with idle vacuum of
less than 18 inches, refer to the specifications in Fig. 7 to determine idle
speed control pressure in forward
driving ranges.
7-85
FIG. 6 - Testing Transmission

Vacuum Unit for Leakage
Control Pressure is Low at
Engine Idle (Test No. 1)
If control pressure at engine idle
is low in all selector lever positions,
trouble other than the diaphragm
unit is indicated. When control pressure at engine idle is low in all ranges,
check for excessive leakage in the
front oil pump, case, and control
valve body, or a sticking control pressure regulator valve.
If idle pressure is within specifications but pressure. at I 0 inches of

vacuum are not within specification
in all ranges, excessive leakage, low
pump capacity, or a restricted oil
pan screen is indicated .
If pressures are not within specifications for specific selector lever positions only, this indicates excessive
leakage in the clutch or servo circuits
used in those ranges.
When the control pressure is within specifications at engine idle, but
not within specifications at I0 inches
of vacuum, the vacuum diaphragm
unit may need adjustment.
TEST NUMBER-3 CONTROL
PRESSURE CHECK AT
1.0 INCH OF VACUUM
Check control pressure at 1.0 inch
7-86
or less of vacuum in all forward drive

ranges. The control pressure should
be as shown in Fig. 7. Then move the
selector lever to R. With the vacuum
at 1 . 0 inch or less the control pressure should be as shown in Fig. 7.
While making this pressure test, do
not hold the throttle open for more
than the seconds in each detent p
sition. Between each test move the
selector lever to neutral and run the
engine at 1000 rpm for fifteen seconds to cool the converter.
If the Yacuum and pressure gauge
readings are within specifications, the
diaphragm unit and transmission
control pressure regulating system
are operating properly.
If transmission control pressure is
too low, too high. fails to increase
with throttle opening, or is extremely
erratic, use the procedure given under
the following appropriate heading to
resolve the problem.
Control Pressure Not Within
Limits at 1.0 inches or Less
of Engine Vacuum (Test No.3)
If idle pressure and pressures at
inches of vacuum are within

specifications but pressure at engine
stall are not within specification in
all ranges, excessive leakage, low
pump capacity or restricted oil pan
screen is indicated.
If stall pressures are not within
specifications for specific ranges only,
10
this indicates excessive leakage in the

clutch or servo circuits used in those
ranges.
CONTROL PRESSURE IS
EXTREMELY ERRATIC
If transmission control pressure is
extremely erratic in D and 2, check
the diaphragm unit tubes, hoses, and
diaphragm push rod as given under
Control Pressure Is High. If the vacuum source is satisfactory, check the
diaphragm unit and repeat the tests
for transmission control pressure. If
control pressure is still extremely
erratic, the trouble is in the transmission hydraulic regulating circuits.
Clean and inspect the control valve
body.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
ADJUSTMENT
The vacuum diaphragm fitted to
the F.M.X. transmission is adjustable. This diaphragm should not be
interchanged with C4 or C6 transmissions.
The vacuum diaphragm assembly
has an adjusting screw in the vacuum
hose connecting tube (Fig. 8 ).
The inner end of the screw bears
against a plate which in turn bears
against the vacuum diaphragm spring.
All readings slightly high or all
readings slightly low may indicate
the vacuum unit needs adjustment to
D1491-A
FIG. 8 - Adiustable Vacuum Unit

correct a particular shift condition.
For example, if the pressure at
10 inches of vacuum was 130 psi and
the pressure at 1.0 inch of vacuum
was 190 psi, and upshifts and downshifts were harsh, a diaphragm adjustment to reduce the diaphragm
assembly spring force would be
required.
If the pressure readings are low,
an adjustment to increase diaphragm
spring force is required .
To increase control pressure, tur
the adjusting screw in clockwise .T
reduce control pressure, back the ac.
justing screw out by turning it counterclockwise. One complete turn of
the adjusting screw (360 degrees) will
change idle line control pressure approximately 2-3 psi . After the adjustment is made, install the vacuum line
and make all the pressure checks as
outlined in Figs. 7.
The diaphragm should not be

adjusted to provide pressure
CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO GOVERNOR RPM-
Menlfokl
Yec.lnL H1o
EnJineSpltd
Tllrottlt
Idle
Closed
Above 18<D
, As Required
As Required
As Required
As Required
10
at or
Below 10
Control Une Pressure (PSI)

llnp
P, N, D, 2,1
D. 2,1
56-82
59-111
82-112
146-175
184-221
(at stall)
D, 2. 1
fi> At eltitudes ebove see level, it mey not be possible to obtein 18 inches of en&ine v1cuum t idle. For idle vacuum of less thin 18 inches,
refer to the followln& tlble to determine idle speed pressure speclflction In D drlvin& r.n&e.
FIG. 7
EnJint YICUUIII
Une Pressure
171nches
161nches
151nches
14 inches
13 Inches
12 inches
11 inches
57-67
57-67
57-72
57-79
57-86
57-92
57-99
7-87
PART 73- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

below the ranges shown in Fig. 7,
in order to change shift feel. To
do so could result in soft or sUpping shift points and damage to
the transmission.
SERVO
01932-A
FIG. 9 - Case Fluid Hole

Identification STALL TEST
Start the engine to allow it to reach

its normal temperature. Apply both
the parking and service brakes while
making tests.
The stall test is made in D, 2, I or
R, at full throttle to check engine
performance, converter clutch operation or installation, and the holding
ability of the forward clutch, reversehigh clutch and low-reverse or intermediate band and the gear train oneway clutch. While making this test,
do not hold the throttle open for more
than five seconds at a time. Then
move the, selector lever to Neutral
and run the engine at 1000 rpm for
about 15 seconds to cool the converter
before making the next test. If the
engine speed as recorded by the tachometer exceeds the maximum limits
specified in Fig. 10, release the accelerator immediately because clutch or
band slippage is indicated.
ST ALI. SPEED TOO HIGH
If stall speed exceeds specifications, band or clutch slippage is indicated, depending on transmission
selector lever position. Excessive
engine rpm only in D, 2, and 1 indicates forward clutch slippage as
shown in Fig. 10. Excessive engine
rpm only in R indicates either
reverse-high clutch or low-reverse
band slippage. Excessive engine rpm

only in D indicates gear train oneway clutch slippage.
second gear.
With the transmission in third gear
and road speed over 38 mph, the
transmission should shift to second
gear when the selector lever is moved
from D to 1. When the same manual
shift is made below about 38 mph,
the transmission will shift from third
to first. This check wil determine
if the governor pressure and
STALL SPEED TOO LOW

and the engine is properly tuned, converter stator clutch problems are indicated. A road test must be performed
to determine the exact cause of the
trouble.
shown in Fig. 10, and the vehicle
cruises properly but has very poor
acceleration, the converter stator
clutch is slipping.
Remove the converter and check the
stator clutch as described in Cleaning
and Inspection.
When the stall test shows normal
speeds, the acceleration is good, but
the vehicle drags at cruising speeds,
the difficulty is due to a seized stator
assembly. If the stator is defective,
replace the converter.
SHIFT POINT CHECKS
Check the mimimum throttle upshifts in D. The transmission should

start in first gear. shift to second, and
then shift to third, within the shift
points specified in the specification
section.
through the detent (to the floor). The
transmission should shift from third
to second or third to first, depending
on the vehicle speed.
Check the closed throttle downshift
from third to first by coasting down
from about 30 mph in third gear. The
shift should occur within the limits
specified in the specification section.
When the selector lever is at 2. the
transmission can operate only in
shift control valves are functioning properly.

During the shift point check operation, if the transmission does not
shift within specifications or certain
gear ratios cannot be obtained, refer
to the diagnosis guide to resolve the
problem.
AIR PRESSURE CHECKS
A NO DRIVE condition can exist,

even with correct transmission fluid
pressure, because "f inoperative
clutches or bands. Erratic shifts
could be caused by a stuck governor
valve. The inoperative units can .be
located through a series of checks by
subsituting air pressure for the fluid
pressure to determine the location of
the malfunction.
When the selector lever is at 2, a
NO DRIVE condition may be caused
by an inoperative forward clutch. A
NO DRIVE condition at D may be
clutch or one-way clutch. When there
is no drive in I, the difficulty could be
caused by improper functioning of the
forward clutch or low-reverse band
and the one-way clutch. Failure to
drive in reverse range could be caused
by a malfunction of the reverse-high
clutch or low-reverse band.
loosen the oil pan bolts and lower one
edge of the oil pan to drain the transmission fluid . Remove the fluid pan and
the control valve body assembly. The
inoperative units can be located by
introducing air pressure into the
transmission case passages leading to
the clutches, servos, and governor
Selector Lever
Position
Clutch
Applied
Band
Applied
Front
Front
D
A
Front
and Rear
Front
Rear
Rear
Rear
FIG. 10
Engine Speed R.P.M .
(at stall)
1650-1850
7-88
(Fig. 9).
FRONT CLUTCH
Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch or front
clutch passage (Fig. 9 ). A dull thud
can be heard when the clutch piston
is applied. If no noise is heard, place
the finger tips on the input shell and
again apply air pressure to the forward or front clutch passage. Movement of the piston can be felt as the
clutch is applied.
REAR SERVO
Apply air pressure to the rear
servo apply passage (Fig. 9), movement of the servo piston stem indicates correct operation.
If the servo does not operate, disassemble, clean, and inspect to locate
the source of the trouble.
If air pressure applied to either of
the clutch passages fails to operate
a clutch or operates both clutches at
once, remove and, with air pressure,
check the fluid passages in the case
and front pump to detect obstructions.
GOVERNOR
Apply air pressure to the control
pressure to governor passage (Fig. 9)
and listen for a sharp clicking or
whistling noise. The noise indicates
governor valve movement.
servo apply passage. Operation of the

servo is indicated by movement of
the servo piston stem. Continue to
apply air pressure to the servo apply
tube or passage, and introduce air
pressure into the front release tube
or the intermediate servo release
pressure. The front or intermediate
servo should release the band against
the apply pressure.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BENCH

TESTS
After the transmission has been assembled and is ready for installation
in the vehicle, check the hydraulic
system to make sure it is operating
properly. These hydraulic tests can
be made on the bench so that most
malfunctions of the system can be
corrected before the transmission is
installed in the vehicle.
TESTING TOOL
INSTALLATION
1. Install a plug in the filler tube
hole in the case or fluid pan, and pour
about four quarts of clean transmission
fluid into the transmission through the
PRESSURE TESTS
Turn the front pump at 75-100
rpm and note the gauge readings.
The pressure readings on the bench
test must be within the limits as outlined in Figure 7, for the engine idle
check.
If pressure gauge readings are
within limits in all selector lever positions, install the vacuum diaphragm
control rod unit.
The Diagnosis Guide (Fig. 22)

lists the most common trouble
symptoms that may be found and
gives the items that should be checked
to find the cause of the trouble.
Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch or rear clutch passage

(Fig. 9). A dull thud indicates that
the reverse-high or rear clutch piston
has moved to the applied position. If
no noise is heard, place the finger tips
on the clutch drum and again apply
air pressure to detect movement of
the piston.
Hold the air nozzle in the front
servo apply tube or the intermediate
4. Remove the 1/8-inch pipe plug

at the transmission case. Turn the
front pump in a clockwise direction
at 75-100 rpm until a regular flow
of transmission fluid leaves the hole
in the transmission case. This operation bleeds the air from the pump.
5. Install the pressure gauge
(77820 or T57L-77820-A) as shown in
Fig. 11.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
REAR CLUTCH
FRONT SERVO
speedometer gear opening.

2. Remove the vacuum diaphragm
unit and the diaphragm unit control
rod, and reinstall the vacuum unit if
these parts had been previously installed.
3. Install the bench testing tool on
the transmission.
Tool-7003
D 1062C
FIG. 11 -Bench Testing Tool

Installation- Typical
The items to check are arranged

in a logical sequence which should
be followed for quickest results. The
letter symbols for each item are explained in the key. If items A, B, C,
K, and the stall tests have already
been checked during preliminary
checks and adjustments, they need
not be repeated.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

CHECK
The transmission fluid level should
be checked using the following procedure.
I. Make sure that the vehicle is
standing level; then firmly apply the
parking brake.
cold, run the engine at fast idle
speed (about 1200 rpm) until the
fluid reaches its normal operating
temperature. When the fluid is warm,
speed.
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before re-
PART 7-3- F. M. X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

moving the dipstick from the filler
tube.
5. Pull the dipstick out of the tube,
wipe it clean, and push it all the way
back into the tube.
the transmission.
TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN

AND REFILL
Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate
periodic automatic transmission fluid
changes.
If a major failure, such as a clutch
band, bearing, etc., has occurred in
the transmission, it will have to be
removed for service. At this time
the couverter, transmission cooler
and cooler lines must be thoroughly
flushed to remove any dirt.
When filling a dry transmission
and converter, install five quarts of
fluid. Start the engine, shift the selector lever as in step 7 below, and
check and add fluid as necessary.
Following are the procedures for
partial drain and refill due to in-vehicle repair operation.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or
jack stands.
transmission.
3. Loosen the pan attaching bolts
to drain the fluid from the transmission.
4. After the fluid has drained to
the level of the pan flange, remove
the rest of the pan bolts working
from the rear and both sides of the
pan to allow it to drop and drain
slowly.
5. When the fluid has stopped
draining from the transmission, remove and thoroughly clean the pan
and the screen. Discard the pan
EJ
gasket.
6. Place a new gasket on the pan,
and install the pan on the transmission.
8. Run the engine at idle speed
for about two minutes, and then run
it at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm)
until it reaches its normal op~rating
temperature. Do not race the engine.
add enough fluid to the transmission
to raise the level to the F (full) mark
on the dipstick. Do not overfill the
transmission.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING

PROCEDURE
other internal trouble. has occurred
in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band material that may have been carried into
the cooler should be removed from
the system by flushing the cooler and
lines before the transmission is put
back into service. In no case should
an automatic transmission having a
clutch or band failure or other internal trouble resulting in fluid contamination, be put back into service
without first flushing the transmission
oil cooler.
1. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and
converter assembly in the vehicle,
do not connect the cooler return line
to the transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P (park)
position and connect the cooler inlet
(converter out) line to the transmission. Place a pan under the end of
the cooler return line that will hold
transmission fluid . Do not start the
engine.
Specifications.
3. Start the engine and allow it to
7-89
run at normal idle speed for 3 minutes with the selector lever in p
(park) position . Stop the engine and
add additional transmission fluid required to complete total fill. Start the
engine and allow it to run at normal
idle speed.
4. Allow approximately two quarts
of transmission fluid to drain into the
pan placed under the end of the cooler return line.
5. If the fluid does not run clean
through the cooler, shut off the engine and add two additional quarts
of transmission fluid .
the transmission fluid flowing out of
the cooler return line is clean .
the engine and disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission and
cooler.
than I00 psi air pressure to reverse
flush the cooler lines and the cooler .
lines at the cooler and the cooler inlet line (converter out) to the transmission .
fluid flow . If the transmission fluid
flows freely, proceed with steps 4
through 7. If there is no fluid flow
lines andjor the radiator.
10. Shut off engine, remove the
temporary plug from the cooler return line fitting on the transmission
case and connect the cooler return
line to the transmission. Check the
transmission fluid level as indicated
under heading Transmission Fluid
Level Check . Add or remove transmission fluid as required until the
proper fluid level is obtained on the
dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE
TRANSMISSION .
11. Do nJt attempt to correct
cooler or cooler line leaks by closing off the lines.
Clean the parts with suitable solvent and use moisture-free air to dry
off all the parts and clean out oil
passages.
The composition clutch plates,
bands and synthetic seals should not
be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or
with any type of detergent solution.

To clean these parts, wipe them off
with a lint-free cloth. New clutch
plates or bands should be soaked in
transmission oil for fifteen minutes
before the plates or bands are
assembled.
CLEANING
CONVERTER CLEANING
The converter cannot be disassembled for cleaning. If there is reason
to believe that the converter has an
7-90
excessive amount of foreign material

in it, the following cleaning procedure
should be used:
1. Thoroughly clean the outside
surfaces of the converter. Remove
both drain plugs and drain as much
fluid as possible.
2. Check the converter as detailed
under Inspection.
3. Place the converter on the cleaning machine with the drain holes facing downward.
4. Flush the inside diameter of the
converter hub for one minute using
the equipment jog switch to control
the pump pressure.
5. Install the filler cap on the converter. Place the converter on the
mounting pad with the drain holes
facing upward.
6. Connect the pump pressure line
to the filler cap. Fill the converter to
the drain hole level, then install the
filler plugs finger tight.
7. Turn the converter over on the
mounting pad so that the drain plugs
are facing downward and are 90 degrees to the cross-bar. Secure the converter with the cross-bar.
8. Remove both drain plugs from
the converter, then start the shaker
and flushing pump motors and allow
it to operate for seven mmutes in
this manner.
9. Shut off the flushing pump and
allow the shaker to operate until the
converter is nearly dry of cleaning
fluid, then shut off the shaker motor.
Too/- TS8L-7902A
L
D 1<499-E
FIG. 12 -Converter Checking Tool
10. Remove the converter from the

mounting pad and place it on the
screen and allow all cleaning fluid
to drain from it.
11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 to
complete the cleaning operation.
12. After all cleaning fluid has been
drained, torque the drain plugs to
specification.
INSPECTION
TURBINE AND STATOR END
PLAY CHECK
1. Insert the tool (Fig. 12) into
the converter pump drive hub until
it bottoms.
2. Install the guide over the converter pump drive hub.
3. Expand the split fiber bushing
in the turbine spline by tightening
the adjusting nut. Tighten the adjusting nut until the tool is securely
locked into the spline.
4. Attach a dial indicator to the
tool (Fig. 13). Position the indicator
button on a converter pump drive
hub, and set the dial face at 0 (zero).
5. Lift the tool upward as far as
it will go and note the indicator
reading. The indicator reading is the
total end play which the turbine and
stator share. If the total end play ex
ceeds the limits specified in Part 7-S,
replace the converter unit.
STATOR ONE-WAY CLUTCH
CHECK
1. Loosen the adjusting nut to free
the split bushing, and then remove
the tool from the converter.
2. Install the stator outer race
holding tool in one of the four holes
provided in the stator (Fig. 13).
3. Insert the tool in the converter
pump drive hub. As the tool enters
the converter, the pins will engage
the stator clutch inner race spline.
4. Place a torque wrench on the
tool (Fig. 13). The tool (and stator
inner race) should turn freely clockwise from the pump drive hub inside
the converter). It should lock up and
hold a 10 ft-lb pull when the wrench
is turned counterclockwise. Try the
clutch for lockup and hold in at least
five different locations around the
converter.
5. If the clutch fails to lock up
and hold a I0 ft-lb torque, replace
the converter unit.
STATOR TO IMPELLER
INTERFERENCE CHECK
I. Position the front pump as-
sembly on a bench with the spline

end of the stator shaft pointing up
(Fig.14).
2. Mount a converter on the
pump so that the splines on the oneway clutch inner race engage the
mating splines of the stator support,
and the converter hub engages the
pump drive gear.
3. While holding the pump stationary, try to rotate the converter counterclockwise. The converter should rotate freely without any signs of interference or scraping within the converter assembly.
4. If there is an indication of
scraping, the trailing edges of the
stator blades may be interfering with
the leading edges of the impeller
blades. In such cases, replace the
converter.
STATOR TO TURBINE
INTERFERENCE CHECK
1. Position the converter on the
bench front side down.
2. Install a front pump assembly
to engage the mating splines of the
stator support and stator, and pump
drive gear lugs.
3. Install the input shaft, engaging the splines with the turbine hub
(Fig. 15).
4. While holding the pump sta
tionary, attempt to rotate the turbine
with the input shaft. The turbine
should rotate freely in both direc
tions without any signs of interference or scraping noise.
5. If interference exists, the sta
tor front thrust washer may be worn,
allowing the stator to hit the turbine.
In such cases, the converter must be
replaced.
The converter crankshaft pilot
should be checked for nicks or damaged surfaces that could cause interference when installing the converter into the crankshaft. Check the
converter front pump drive hub for
nicks or sharp edges that would
damage the pump seal.
OUTPUT SHAFT AND
PRIMARY SUN GEAR SHAFT
I. Inspect the thrust surfaces and
journals for scores. Inspect the internal gear for broken or worn teeth.
2. Inspect the aluminum sleeve
for scores or leakage. Inspect the
ring grooves for burrs.
3. Inspect the keyway and drive
ball pocket for wear, and inspect the
splines for burrs, twist or wear.
4. Inspect the output shaft sleeve
for alignment with the governor
PART 7-3- F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-91
Split Fib Bushing
END PLAY CHECK
Torque Wrench
Tooi -T58L -7902-Bor 7946 - A
Tooi- T63P-7902-A
STATOR CLUTCH CHECK

01934- A
FIG. 13- Typical Converter Checking Tool- FMX Transmission
7-92
drive ball (Fig. 16).
GOVERNOR
DRIVE BAll
POCKET
5. Inspect the external parking

gear teeth for damage and the speedometer drive gear teeth for burrs.
6. If either the output shaft or
ring gear has been replaced, place
the assembled unit with the gear face
down on the bench, push the shaft
downward, and check the clearance
between the top of the snap ring and
its groove (Fig. 17). If this clearance exceeds 0.002 inch, replace the
snap ring with a thicker ring to reduce the clearance to less than 0.002
inch. Selective snap rings are available in several thicknesses for this
purpose .
7. Inspect the rubber seal and
stop ring at the front of the output
shaft spline. If wear or damage is
evident, replace the parts.
8. Inspect the primary sun gear
for broken or worn teeth. Inspect all
thrust surfaces and journals for
scores . Check all fluid passages (Fig.
18) for obstructions and leakage. Inspect the seal ring grooves for burrs.
9. Inspect the sun gear shaft
splines for burrs and wear.
10. Check the fit of the seal rings
in the grooves of the shaft. The rings
should enter the grooves freely without bind.
11. Check the fit of the seal rings
in their respective bores. If equipped
with cast iron seal rings, a clearance of
0.002-0.009 inch should exist between
the ends of the rings.
12. Install the seal rings on the
shaft, and check for free movement
in the grooves.
PINION CARRIER, ONE-WAY
CLUTCH AND CENTER
SUPPORT
I. Inspect the clutch outer race,
inner race, band surface, pinion
gears, bearings, and thrust washer
(Fig. 19) for roughness.
2. Inspect the center support bushing for roughness.
3. Inspect the one-way clutch
cage rollers and springs for excessive
wear or damage.
01935-A
FIG. 16 - Correct Position of

Output Shaft Aluminium Sleeve
FRONT PUMP AND STATOR

SUPPORT SHAFT
D1922A
FIG. 14- Stator to Impeller

Interference Check
EXTENSION HOUSING
I. Inspect the housing for cracks.
Inspect the gasket surface for burrs
or warpage.
2. Inspect the bushing for scores
or wear.
3. Inspect the rear seal for hardness, cracks, or wear. If the seal
shows wear or deterioration, replace
the seal.
4. Inspect the seal counterbore
and remove all burrs and scores with
crocus cloth.
REAR CLUTCH
FIG. 17 -Checking Output

Shaft Snap Ring Clearance
I. Inspect the drum band surface, the bushing, and thrust surfaces for scores. Minor scores may
be removed with crocus cloth. Badly scored parts must be replaced.
Inspect the clutch piston bore and
the piston inner and outer bearing
surfaces for scores. Check the air
FRONT ClUTCH
FIG. 15- Stator to Turbine

Interference Check
D1937A
FIG. 18 -
Primary Sun Gear Shaft- Cross Sectional View

CENTER SUPPORT
7-93
"CAM TYPE" CLUTCH RACE
CHAMFER ON PRODUCTION
PART, ONLY-SERVICE PART NOT CHAMFERED
PLANET CARRIER
D1931-A
FIG. 19 - Roller Type Planetary Clutch, Carrier and

Center Support
bleed ball valve in the clutch piston
for free movement. Check the orifice to make sure it is not plugged.
2. Check the fluid passages for
obstructions. All fluid passages must
be clean and free of obstructions.
3. Inspect the clutch plates for
wear and scoring and check the
plates for fit on the clutch hub serrations. Replace all plates that are
badly scored, worn or do not fit freely in the hub serrations.
4. Inspect the clutch pressure
plate for scores on the -clutch plate
bearing surface. Check the clutch release spring(s) for distortion.
that is not flat.

6. Check the clutch hub thrust
surfaces for scores and the clutch hub
splines for wear.
7. Inspect the turbine shaft bearing surfaces for scores. If excessive
clearance or scores are found, discard the unit.
5. Inspect the needle bearing for

worn rollers.
I. Inspect the mating surfaces of

the pump body and cover for burrs.
2. Inspect the drive and driven
gear bearing surface for scores, and
check the gear teeth for burrs. Inspect the stator support splines for
burrs and wear.
obstructions.
4. If any parts other than the stator support are found defective, rt"place the pump as a unit. Minor
bourrs and scores may be removed
with crocus cloth. The stator support
is serviced separately.
FRONT CLUTCH
I. Inspect the clutch cylinder
thrust surfaces, piston bore, and
clutch plate serrations for scores or
burrs. Minor scores or burrs may be
removed with crocus cloth . Replace
the clutch cylinder if it is badly
scored or damaged.
2. Check the fluid passage in the
clutch cylinder for obstructions.
Clean out all fluid passages. Inspect
the clutch piston for scores and replace 1f necessary . Inspect the piston
check ball for freedom of movement
Check the splines on the turbine

shaft for wear and replace the shaft
if the splines are excessively worn.
Inspect the bushing in the turbine
shaft for scores.
FRONT PUMP AND
STATOR SUPPORT
REAR SUPPORT
and proper seating (Fig. 20).

3. Check the clutch release spring
for distortion and cracks. Replace
the spring if it is distorted or
cracked.
4. Inspect the composition and
the steel clutch plates and the clutch
pressure plate for worn or scored
bearing surfaces. Replace all parts
that are deeply scored.
5. Check the clutch plates for fiatness and fit on the clutch hub serrations. Discard any plate that does
not slide freely on the serrations or
I. Inspect the gasket mating surfaces for damage .

2. Inspect the support bushing
for scores .
3. Inspect the rear support fluid
passages for obstructions.
4. Check the fit of the fluid
tubes in the support.
PRESSURE REGULATOR
I. Inspect the regulator body and

cover mating surface for burrs.
2. Check all fluid passages for
Dl'IJP-A
FIG. 20- Clutch Piston Check

Valve
obstructions .
3 .Inspect the control pressure
and converter pressure valves and
bores for burrs and scores. Remove
all burrs carefully with crocus cloth .
4. Check free movement of the
valves in their bores. The valves
should fall freely into the bores
when both the valve and bore are
dry .
5. Inspect the valve springs and
spacers for distortion .
VALVE BODY
I. Clean all parts thoroughly in

clean solvent, and then blow them
dry with moisture-free compressed
air.
2. Inspect all valve and plug bores
for scores. Check all fluid passages
for obstructions . Inspect the check
valve for free movement. Inspect all
mating surfaces for burrs or distortion. Inspect all plugs and valves for
burrs and scores . Crocus cloth can
be used to polish falves and plugs if
care is taken to afoid rounding the
sharp edges of the falves and plugs.
3. Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plugs for
free movement in their respective
bores. Valves and plugs, when dry,
must fall from their own weight in
their respective bores .
4. Roll the manual valve on a flat
surface to check it for a bent condition .
7-94
Items to Check
Transmission
in Car
K BWFEG
ABCDWEL
BG FEJ
BG EF
DECG J
KBE
LWE
GFEJ B
KBE
K
ABWFE
ABGWFEJ
AHWFEIB
CE
ER C
CER
HI ER C
ACWFER
Cl J
CHI
GJE
GJ
Trouble SJmptoms
Rough Initial Engagement in D or 2
1-2 or 2-3 Shift Points Incorrect
Rough 2-3 Shift
Engine Over speeds on 2-3 Shift
No 1-2 or 2-3 Shift
No 3-1 Shift
No Forced Downshifts
Runaway Engine Forced Downshift
Rough 3-2 or 3-1 Shift at Closed Throttle
Creeps Excessively
Slips or Chatters in First Gear, D
Slips or Chatters in Second Gear
Slips or Chatters in R
No Drive in D
No Drive in 2
No Drive in 1
No Drive in R
No Drive in Any Se~ector Lever Position
Lockup in D
Lockup in 2
Lockup in 1
Lockup in R
Parking Lock Binds or Does Not Hold
Transmission Overheats
Maximum Speed Too Low, Poor Acceleration
Transmission Noisy in N
Transmission Noisy in First, Second, Third, or Reverse Gear
Transmission Noisy in P
Fluid Leak
Transmission
Out of Car
r
be
aci
ac
be
i
ac
ac
be
c
bgc
bgc i
bgc
age
OG
I
n
n
F
F
F
MNOPQSTUX
ad
habd
d
jmp
Probably Trouble Sources
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L
M.
N.
0.
P.
Q.
R.
Fluid Level
Vacuum Diaphragm Unit or Tubes
Manual Linkage
Governor
Valve Body
Pressure Regulator
Front Band
Rear Band
Rear Servo
Front Servo
Engine I die Speed
Downshift Unkage
Converter Dr ain PI ugs
Oil Pan Gasket, Drain Plug or Tube
Oil Cooler and Connect ions
Manual or Throttle Lever Shaft Seal
1/8-inch Pipe Plug in Side of Case
Perform Air Pressure Check
FIG. 21 -
S.
T.
u.
w.
X.
a.
b.
c.
d.
g.
h.
i.
j.
m.
n.
p.
r.
FMX Automatic Transmission Diagnosis Guide
Extension Housing to Case Gaskets and Lockwashers

Center Support Bolt Lockwashers
Extension Housing Rear Oil Seal
Perform Control Pressure Check
Speedometer Driven Gear Adapter Seal
Front Clutch
Rear Clutch
Leakage in Hydraulic System
Front Pump
Parking Linkage
Planetary Assembly
Planetary One-Way Clutch
Engine Rear Oil Seal
Front Pump Oil Seal
Converter One-Way Clutch
Front Pump to Case Gasket
Rear Clutch Piston Air Bleed Valve
PART 73- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

GOVERNOR
I. Inspect the governor valves and
bores for scores. Minor scores may
be removed from the valves with
crocus cloth. Replace the governor
if the valves or body is deeply scored.
2. Check for free movement of
the valves in the bores. The valves
should slide freely of their own
weight in the bores when dry. Inspect fluid passages in the valve body
and counterweight for obstructions.
All fluid passages must be clean.
3. Check the mating surface of the

governor. valve and the counterweight for burrs or scratches.
FRONT SERVO
I. Inspect the servo bore for
cracks and the piston bore and the
servo piston stem for scores. Check
fluid passages for obstructions. Replace seals that are damaged.
2. Check the actuating lever for

free movement, and inspect it for
IJ
REAR SERVO
I. Inspect the servo body for
cracks and the piston bore for
scores.
obstructions.
3. Inspect the band and the struts
for distortion . Inspect the band ends
for cracks.
4. Inspect the servo spring for
distortion.
S. Inspect the band lining for excessive wear and bonding to the
metal band.
6. Check the servo body to case

mating surface for burrs. Check the
accumulator piston and the check

valve for freedom of movement.
Check the actuating lever socket for
scores.
7. Replace seals that are damaged.
CASE:
Inspect the case for cracks and
stripped threads. Inspect the gasket
surfaces and mating surfaces for
burrs. Check the vent for obstructions, and check all fluid passages
for obstructions and leakages (Fig. 9).
Inspect the case bushing for
scores. Check all parking linkage
parts for wear or damage.
ONE:-W A Y CLUTCH
I. Inspect the outer and inner
races for scores or damaged surface
area where the rollers contact the
races.
2. Inspect the rollers and springs
for excessive wear or damage.
3. Inspect the spring and roller
case for bent or damaged spring retainers.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Figure 22 shows the location of
the converter, front pump, clutches,
bands, gear train and most of the
internal parts used in the FMX
Transmission.
The identification tag (Fig. 23) on
an F MX transmission is attached
under the lower right-hand extension
to case bolt. The tag includes the
model prefix and suffix, assembly
part number and the build date code.
The tag must be kept with the
individual transmission it was originally installed on. If the tag was
removed during disassembly, reinstall it on the same unit.
The FMX transmission is a three
speed unit capable of providing automatic upshifts and downshifts through
the three forward gear ratios, and also
capable of providing manual selection
of first and second gears.
The transmission consists essentially
of a torque converter, planetary gear
train, two multiple disc clutches and a
hydraulic control system (Fig. 24).
OPERATION
TORQUE: CONVERTER
The
wear. If necessary to replace the

actuating lever or shaft, remove the
retaining pin and push the shaft out
of the bracket. Inspect the adjusting
screw threads and the threads in the
lever for damage.
3. Check the servo spring and servo
band strut(s) for distortion.
4. Inspect the cover seal and gasket cover sealing surface for defects.
7-95
hydraulic
torque
converter
(Fig. 25) consists of an impeller

(pump), a turbine, and a stator. All
these parts are enclosed and operate
in a fluid-filled housing.
When the engine is running, the
fluid in the torque converter flows
from the impeller to the turbine and
back to the impeller through the
stator. This flow produces a maximum torque increase of about 2 to
I when the turbine is stalled. When
enough torque is developed by the
impeller, the turbine begins to rotate,
turning the turbine shaft.
The converter torque multiplication gradually tapers off as turbine
speed approaches impeller speed, and
it becomes I to I when the turbine is
being driven at 9110 impeller speed.
This is known as the coupling point.
When the turbine is rotating at less
than 9I 10 impeller speed, the converter is multiplying torque. The fluid
leaving the turbine blades strikes the
front face of the stator blades. These
blades are held stationary by the action of a one-way clutch (Fig. 25) as
long as the fluid is directed against
the front face of the blades.
When the turbine rotates faster
than 9I I 0 impeller speed the converter no longer multiplies torque. The
fluid is directed against the back face
of the stator blades. As the one-way
clutch permits the stator to rotate

only in the direction of impeller rotation, the stator begins to turn with
the impeller and turbine. The converter operates as an efficient fluid coupling as long as the turbine speed
remains greater than 9I 10 impeller
speed.
A constant flow of fluid into and
out of the converter is maintained.
Some of the fluid coming out of the
converter is forced through a cooler
located in the radiator tank.
PLANETARY GEAR TRAIN,
CLUTCHES, BANDS AND
SERVOS
Planetary Gear Train

The planetary gear train consists
of a primary sun gear, secondary sun
gear, primary and secondary pinions which are held in a common carrier, and an internal gear to which
the transmission output shaft is attached (Fig. 26).
Front Clutch
The front clutch drive plates (Fig.
27)are connected to the turbine shaft
through the front clutch drum. The
driven plates are connected to the
7-96

TURBINE
IMPELLER
DISTRIBUTOR
SLEEVE
TRANSMISSION
CASE
FRONT OIL SEAL
EXTENSION HOUSING
SEAL
ONE WAY
CLUTCH
FLYWHEEL
D 1133-D
FIG. 22 -Typical FMX Transmission

primary sun gear shaft.
The front clutch is operated by
fluid pressure against the clutch piston. The piston moves against a disc
spring which acts as a lever to lock
the drive and driven plates together.
When the clutch is applied, the primary sun gear is locked to and driv- .
en by the turbine shaft. The piston is
returned to the release position by
the disc spring when the fluid pressure is removed (Fig. 26). A check
ball is installed in the front clutch
piston to permit fluid exhaust, when
the piston is in its released position.
In neutral, the front clutch drum
and steel plates are being driven
while the composition plates are
stationary. In reverse, the clutch is not
applied, since the steel and composition plates must rotate in opposite
directions .
clutch drive plates are splined to the

front clutch drum and the driven
plates are connected to the rear clutch
drum and secondary sun gear. When
the rear clutch is applied (in the
reverse and third gear ratios) the
secondary sun gear is driven. The piston is returned to the released position
by the release spring (Fig. 27).
In neutral, the rear clutch composition plates are being driven while the
steel plates are free . In second gear,
the composition plates are driven, but
the steel plates are held stationary. In
first gear, the composition plates are
driven clockwise at engine speed while

the steel plates are driven counterclockwise.
Front Band and Servo
One end of the front band, which

encircles the rear clutch drum, is anchored to the transmission case, and
the other end is connected to the front
servo (Fig. 28).
Fluid pressure moves the front servo
piston against the inner end of the
front servo actuating lever. Force is
transmitted through a strut between
the outer end of the lever and the end
of the band to tighten the band around
Rear Clutch
The rear clutch (Fig.27) is operated

by fluid pressure against the clutch
piston. Movement of the piston compresses the release spring and locks
the multiple-disc clutch. The rear
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT
FIG. 23 -
Identification Tags
BUILD DATE
SHIFT
PART 7-3- F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-97
LOW REVERSE
SERVO
FORWARD
CLUTCH
CHECK BALL
USED IN PHD
MODEL
TRANSMISSIONS
ONLY
LOW SERVO
MODULATOR
VALVE
CONVERTER
CONVERTER
PRESSURE
REGULATOR
VALVE
~-~
COOLER RETURN
OIL CHECK
VALVE
X EXHAUST
FIG. 24- Hydraulic Control System
7-98
the rear clutch drum. Under certain

conditions, the servo is released by
directing fluid pressure to the opposite
side of the piston, assisted by release
spring force .
gear that uses the one-way clutch.
holding the secondary sun gear (Fig.

30).The primary pinions drive the secondary pinions, causing them to walk
around the secondary sun gear and to
carry the internal gear and output
shaft around with them.
Power Row-Second Gear

Second gear ratio is obtained by
driving the primary sun gear and
Rear Band and Servo

The rear band fits around the planetary gear drum . One end of the band
contacts the end of the band adjusting screw, and the other end connects
to the rear servo.
POWER FLOWS
Figure 29 lists the ratios obtained
throught the various power flows .
Power Row-Neutral
When the transmission 1S m neutral (Fig . 30), no gears are held or
driven, and no power is transmitted to
the output shaft.
Power Row-First Gear,

Manual Low
In first gear when the selector lever
is at I, the primat.y sun gear is driven
and the pinion carrier is held by the
rear band (Fig.30). Power is transmitted to the primary pinions, the
secondary pinions, and the internal
gear, driving the internal gear in the
same direction as the primary sun
gear. The secondary sun gear turns
free in the reverse direction and has
no effect on the gear train .
01006-A
FIG. 26- Planetary Gear Train

REAR CLUTCH DRUM
Power Flow-First Gear, D

In first gear at the D selector lever
position, the pinion carrier is held
against rotation by the one-way
clutch instead of by the rear band
(Fig. 30). First gear in D is the only
D 113S-C
01007
DRIVE PLATES
FIG. 28- Typical Front Servo
-A
FIG. 27- Front and Rear Clutches
01004-A
FIG. 25- Sectional View of

Typical Torque Converter
Gear
Selector Lever
Position
Clutch
AppUed
Band
Applied
Gear
Rado
Neutral
None
None
First
D or 1
Front
Rear<D
2.40:1
Second
D or2
Front
Front
1.47:1
Third
Front and Rear
None
1.00:1
Reverse
Rear
Rear
2.00:1
CDin first gear D, the planet carrier is held against rotation by the one-way
clutch.
FIG. 29- Gear Ratios
7-99

Power Row-Third Gear
In third gear, the primary and secondary sun gears are locked together
and driven as a unit (Fig.30). Therefore, the pinions cannot rotate and
the entire planetary train revolves as a
unit, which causes the output shaft to
rotate at the same speed as the turbine
shaft.
Power Row-Park Position
Power Row-Revene
Reverse gear is obtained by driving the secondary sun gear and holding the pinion carrier (Fig. 30)- The
secondary pinions drive the internal
gear in the reverse direction. The primary sun gear and the primary pinions
rotate freely and have no effect on the
gear train.
REAR
BAND
FRONT
BAND
When the selector lever is in the

P (park) position, the parking pawl
engages the external teeth on the internal gear to lock the internal gear
and output shaft to the case. This
locks the rear wheels to prevent movement of the vehicle.
REAR BAND
APPLIED
FIRST GEAR I
NEUTRAL
FRONT BAND
APPLIED
REAR BAND
FRONT BAND
RELEASED
PINION CARRIER
OVERRUNNING
ONE-WAY CLUTCH
ONE-WAY
CLUTCH
ENGAGED
FIRST GEAR D
REAR CLUTCH
RELEASED
REAR CLUTCH
RELEASED
SECOND GEAR
REAR BAND
APPLIED
REAR CLUTCH
APPLIED
THIRD GEAR
FIG. 30 -Power Flow
REAR BAND
RELEASED
POWER FLOW . . .
ROTATION
REVERSE GEAR
FRONT BAND
RELEASED
0 1136 - B
7-l 00
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
FRONT PUMP

SYSTEM
The front pump (Fig. 24), driven by

the converter impeller, delivers fluid
pressure to the hydraulic control system whenever the engine runs.
The pump delivers fluid pressure
to the control pressure regulator and
control valve body. A regulated control pressure is available at the control valve body whenever the engine
is running.
COMPENSATOR PRESSURE
Control pressure is regulated by

the spring-loaded control pressure
regulator valve (Fig. 24). It is adjusted
to engine torque, road speed, and selector lever position.
To accomplish this, compensator
pressure under various conditions is
adjusted by throttle pressure (engine
torque), governor pressure (road
speed), or selector lever position . Compensator pressure, in turn, adjusts control pressure.
CONVERTER PRESSURE
Like control pressure, converter

pressure is regulated by the convertor pressure regulator valve spring
and is adjusted to driving conditions
by compensator pressure and selector lever positions.
MANUAL VALVE
Line pressure is delivered to the

manual valve through a single passage; the valve is positioned in the
valve body b,y the manual linkage,
according to the mode of operation
desired. Fluid is distributed from the
manual valve through the following
passages (Fig. 24).
l. D
2. D-2-1
3. 2-1-R-P
4. (Lower) 1-R-P
5. 1-R-P
The D passage supplies fluid to the

downshift valve, and through the 1-2
shift shuttle ball check valve to the
1-2 shift valve . In addition, fluid is
directed to the 2-3 shift orifice and
through it to the 2-3 shift valve and
to the bottom of the rear servo lock
out valve.
The D-2-1 passage directs apply
fluid to the forward clutch, applying
it, and to the upper end of the transition valve, to the governor valve and
to the compensator cut back valve.
The 2-1-R-P passage supplies fluid
to the upper valley of the 1-2 shift
valve, and passes through the 1-2 shift
valve bore to the adjacent ends of the
1-2 shift accumulator and lock-out
valves.
The 1-R-P passage supplies fluid to
the valley of the 2-1 scheduling valve,
and through the 1-2 shift shuttle ball
check valve to the 1-2 shift valve.
The R passage supplies fluid to the
left valley of the throttle valve and
to the upper valley of the 2-3 shift
valve.
THROTTLE PRESSURE
Throttle pressure adjusts the transmission operation to engine torque.

Throttle pressure is produced from
control pressure by the throttle valve.
The throttle valve is controlled by a
spnng-loaded vacuum diaphragm unit
mounted on the rear of the transmission case (Fig. 24).
The vacuum diaphragm is actuated
by the engine intake manifold vacuum
working against spring pressure. When
the vacuum is higher than 16 inches
the diaphragm moves against spring
pressure and moves the push rod away
from the throttle valve to cut off the
throttle pressure regulation. As the engine throttle is advanced, manifold
vacuum will fall below 16 inches. As
the vacuum drops, the spring-loaded
d-iaphragm moves the push rod to open
the throttle valve and increase the
throttle pressure.
6. R
7. Exhaust
The D passage is charged in D
range only .
The D-2-1 passage is charged in
Drive range, manual Second gear (2
range) and manual low gear (I range).
The 2-1-R-P passages are charged
in 2, I, Reverse range and Park.
The 1-R-P passages are charged in
I, Reverse and Park.
The R passage is charged in R range
only .
THROTTLE PRESSURE
BOOST VALVE
To compensate for the slight manifold vacuum changes with throttle

movements beyond about 50 degrees
carburetor valve opening, a throttle
pressure boost valve comes into
operation. At 51 psi throttle pressure,
the spring-loaded boost valve(Fig. 24)
comes into balance. Throttle pressure
below 5 I psi cannot move the boost
valve against spring force plus throttle pressure force acting at the boost
valve plug. Below 51 psi, therefore,
throttle pressure will flow through
the boost valve without interference.
Throttle pressure above 51 psi will
move the boost valve to the left (Fig.
24). This movement will first cut off
throttle pressure flow to the shift
valves and the coasting control valve,
and it will then open a passage to permit the new boosted throttle pressure
to flow to the shift valves and the
coasting control valve. Throttle pressure will continue to work against the
right end of the boost valve. For each
pound of increase in throttle pressure
(above 51 psi), the boosted throttle
pressure will increase about three
pounds.
GOVERNOR PRESSURE
Governor pressure is produced from
front clutch control pressure by the
valve in the governor body which rotates at output shaft speed .
The governor valve is a balanced
valve. It is balanced between centrifugal force acting on the governor
valve plus governor spring force and
governor pressure force (Fig. 24).Governor pressure is, therefore, proportion
alto road speed.
TRANSITION VALVE
The transition valve controls the

front servo apply pressure flow.
In the D range, the transition valve
blocks front servo apply pressure flow
until the 1-2 valve is closed by governor pressure.
In the 2 range, the transition valve
permits front servo apply pressure to
flow through it all all times. The spring
modifies the action of the valve to improve the quality of the manual 1 ~2
upshift.
1-2 SHIFT VALVE
The 1-2 shift valve controls the

1-2 upshift in the D range . On the
2-1 downshift, either manual (shift
to I) or kickdown, the 1-2 shift valve
controls the shift only within the road
speed range permitted by the inhibitor
valve.
The 1-2 valve is held in its rest
(open) position by a spring. It is
closed by governor pressure. Under
various driving conditions, governor
pressure is opposed by spring force
plus reduced throttle and reduced
boosted throttle pressures, and control
pressure.

REAR SERVO
LOCKOUT VALVE
The six passages that connect to
the rear servo lockout valve are pressurized as follows:
1. Rear Clutch Apply Pressure
2. Exhaust
3. Rear Servo Apply Pressure
4. 1-RP Pressure From Manual
Valve
5. Rear Servo Apply Pressure
6. D Pressure From Manual Valve
When the transmission is operating
in D range, line pressure from the
manual valve is directed through the
2-lshift orifice ball check valve to the
bottom of the rear servo lockout
valve; this pressure holds the valve in
the upward position against the force
of front clutch apply pressure and
spring effort at the top of the valve.
While the valve is in this position, line
pressure from the D passage of the
manual valve is prevented from pressurizing the rear servo apply circuit.
When the selector lever is in the R
position, R fluid from the manual
valve is directed through the 2-3 shift
valve to the area differential at the
lower valley of the rear servo lockout
valve; the force resulting from this
pressure assists the spring in keeping
the valve downward in its bore, so
that servo apply pressure can pass
through the bore and pressurize the
servo apply circuit.
THROTTLE REDUCING
VALVE
Before throttle pressure or boosted
throttle pressure is admitted to the
front face of the 23 shift valve, plug
and 1-2 shift valve, it must open a
passage past the spring-loaded throttle reducing valve.
Approximately 20 psi throttle pressure is required to move the valve
against its spring far enough to open
the passage. Once past the valve,
throttle pressure will work on the
spring end of the valve and exert a
force to cut off throttle pressure flow
past the valve. In this case, the valve
becomes a balanced valve, wherein the
valve is balanced between throttle
pressure force on the one end and
spring force plus throttle pressure
force on the other end. The pressure
past the valve will, there ore, be reduced.
2-3 SHIFT VALVE
The 2-3 shift valve controls the
2-3 upshift and the 3-2 downshift. The

valve is held in its rest (closed) position by springs. It is opened by governor pressure. Under various driving
conditions, governor pressure is opposed by spring force plus throttle
or boosted throttle pressures, and control pressure.
INHIBITOR VALVE
The inhibitor valve prevents a 2-1
downshift, either manual or kickdown,
at excessive road speeds .
The inhibitor valve is held in its
rest (open) position by a spring. It is
closed by governor pressure . Under
various driving conditions, governor
pressure is opposed by spring force
plus control pressure.
1-2 SHIFT ACCUMULATOR
AND LOCKOUT VALVES
Four passages connect to the bore of
the 1-2 shift accumulator and lockout
valves ; from left to right the first passage is connected to direct-reverse
clutch apply pressure through the 3-2
kickdown control valve and its orifice;
the second is connected to the release
side of the intermediate servo, the
third is connected . to the upper valley
of the 1-2 shift valve and the fourth is
connected directly to direct-reverse
clutch apply pressure. The 1-2 shift
accumulator and lockout va lves control the quality of the 1-2 shift by
regulating the servo apply force as
follows :
To make a complete servo application, apply pressure must stroke the
servo piston against the force of the
release spring, and at the same time
force out the fluid in the release side
of the servo. Fluid from the release
side of the servo unseats the check
ball to bypass the intermediate servo
release orifice and is then routed to
the valley of the 1-2 shift accumulator
valve. As pressure builds up in the
apply side of the servo causing the
servo piston to stroke toward the apply
position, a similiar pressure build-up is
transmitted through the piston to the
release circuit and acts on the area
differential of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve ; this will force the valve to
the left against its spring until the
left-hand passage is uncovered, allowing the fluid in the release side of the
servo to escape to exhaust at the
manual valve. In this way servo a pply
force is reduced to the required level
by regulating a back pressure on the
release side of the servo.
When the transmission upshifts to
7-101
high gear, direct and reverse clutch

apply pressure is routed to the righthand passage behind the 1-2 shift accumulator lockout va lve, a nd through
the check valve and 3-2 kickdown
control valve to the valley of the 1-2
shift accumulator valve ; the entire
shift accumulator and lockout valve
train moves to the left a nd is held
there insuring that the release sid e of
the intermediate servo will be pressurized whenever the transmiss ion is
in high gear. In addition, should the
accelerator pedal be depressed to
force a kickdown into second gea r,
the shift accumulator va lve will remain to the left so that clutch a pply/
servo release fluid ca n flow without
obstruction to the 3-2 kickdown control valve, where the exha ust of this
fluid is controlled .
When the transmission selector
lever is moved from D to 2 or I to
provide engine braking, line pressure
from the 2-1 - R-P passage is directed
through the 1-2 shift valve to the
third port of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve at the end adjacent to the
lockout valve. The force produced by
this pressure acting on the end of the
valves moves the valve to the left, keeping it in that position. This insures
that servo release pressure will be
quickly exhausted through the direct
and reverse clutch circuit, permitting
an immediate band application.
DOWNSHIFT VALVE
Three passages intersect the bore of
the downshift valve. The left-hand passage is vented to exhaust ; the middle
passage is connected to the adjacent
ends of the 2-3 throttle reducing valve
and 2-3 shift delay valves and to the
inhibitor valve. The third passage of
the downshift valve is connected to the
D passage of the manual valve.
When the car is in intermediate or
high gears (G:ive range) and the accelerator pedal is floored, to force
the downshift valve in against spring
force, the '!?.lvc seals off the exhaust
port and rcat.:s line pressure from the
manual valve to the inhibitor valve
and to the adjacent ends of the 2-3
throttle reducing. valve and 2-3 shift
delay valve, tending to move the 2-3
shift valve upward in its bore. If the
force due to governor pressure acting
on the area differential at the lower
valley of the 2-3 shift valve is sufficiently low the valve will move upward and the transmission will engage
second gear. At the same time, downshift pressure is directed from the
7-102
2-3 shift valve to the bottom of the

1-2 shift valve, where it tends to force
a downshift into low gear.
3-2 DOWNSHIFT
CONTROL VALVE
The 3-2 downshift control valve
operates in the front servo release
pressure passage between the 2-3
valve and the front servo . A check
valve is installed parallel with the
downshift valve in the same passage
so that release pressure flow to the
servo by-passes it.
The downshift valve controls the
rate of front servo release pressure
exhaust (flow from the servo), and
thereby the rate of front band application.
The 3-2 downshift control valve:
eliminates the possibility of a run-
away condition in the transmission
during a 3-2 kickdown at low car
speed (about 25 mph). It also eliminates the possibility of a tie-up during
the same shift at higher speeds (50
mph and more) .
2-1 SCHEDULING VALVE
Four ports intersect the 2-1 scheduling valve bore. From left to right, the
first port is vented to exhaust, the second is connected to the spring end of
the inhibitor valve through the inhibitor shuttle ball check valve, the third
is connected to the 1-R-P passage of
the manual valve and the right-hand
port is vented to exhaust.
When the selector lever is moved
to I to force a downshift from high
or intermediate gear to low, 1-R-P
fluid pressure is directed to the third
port of the 2-1 scheduling valve. The
force due to line pressure acting on
the differential area moves the valve
to the left, compressing the spring.
As the valve moves to the left it seals
off the line pressure port and uncovers
the exhaust passage at the left end of
the valve, allowing some of the fluid
in the differential pocket to escape to
exhaust. The loss of pressure in the
differential pocket allows the spring
to force the valve back to the right,
where it is again charged with line
pressure. The pressure resulting from
the regulating cycle is routed to the
spring end of the inhibitor valve, where
it assists the inhibitor valve spring in
tending to force the valve upward
against the force due to governor pressure acting on top of the valve.
If vehicle speed and resulting governor pressure on the upper end of the
inhibitor valve is low enough the
downward force on the valve will be

less than the upward effort resulting
from spring force plus 2-1 scheduling
pressure on the bottom of the valve
and the inhibitor valve will move up
in its bore, opening the necessary
passages to permit a downshift into
low gear.
2-3 SHIIT ORIFICE BYPASS BALL CHECK VALVE
Line pressure from the D passage of
the manual valve is directed through
the 2-3 shift orifice to the 2-3 shift
valve. When the 2-3 shift valve moves
downward in its bore, directing D
fluid from the 2-3 shift orifice into the
direct and reverse clutch apply circuit,
the 2-3 shift orifice check ball seats on
the bypass hole, causing the clutch
apply pressure to be orificed. However
when the transmission selector lever
is moved to 2 to force a downshift to
second gear, the check ball unseats
from the bypass hole, allowing direct
and reverse clutch apply pressure to
exhaust at the manual valve without
further obstruction.
1-2 SHIIT VALVE SHUTTLE
BALL CHECK VALVE
Fluid is directed from the D and
1-R-P passages of the manual valve
to the lower valley of the 1-2 shift
valve. When the D passage is pressurized the 1-R-P passage is open to exhaust at the manual valve, and vice
versa. Therefore a shuttle ball check
valve is provided in the line connecting to the lower valley of the 1-2 shift
v.elve. When the transmission is operaaung in D range the shuttle ball seals
off the 1-R-P passage, preventing D
pressure from exhausting at the manual valve. Similarly, when the transmission is in I, 2 or P ranges the
shuttle ball seals off the D passage,
preventing the loss of 1-R-P fluid at
the manual valve.
INHIBITOR VALVE
SHUTTLE BALL CHECK
VALVE
The spring end of the inhibitor
valve is pressurized at various times
by the following pressures:
I. D fluid and 1-R-P fluid from
1-2 shift circuit shuttle ball check .
2. 2-1 scheduling pressure from 2-1
scheduling valve.
A shuttle ball check valve is provided in the passage connecting to the
spring end of the inhibitor valve. When
pressure from the 1-2 shift valve shuttle ball check is directed to the inhibi
tor valve, the inhibitor valve shuttle
ball check seals off the passage to the
2-1 scheduling valve, preventing loss
of pressure through the 2-1 scheduling
valve. Similarly when 2-1 scheduling
pressure is present, the shuttle ball
seals off the passage connecting to
the 1-2 shift valve shuttle ball check .
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-NEUTRAL
The manual valve at N selector
'lever position blocks the fluid flow
to both clutches and both bands (Fig.
24). With no fluid pressure in the
clutches or servos, the clutches and
bands are released by spring pressure,
preventing power being transmitted
to the transmission output shaft.
Neutral operation of the transmission keeps control pressure up to its
proper value, maintains a full torque
converter, lubricates the transmission,
and maintains a flow of fluid through
the cooling system.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-D, FIRST GEAR
When the selector lever is moved
from N to D, the manual valve opens
three passages to control pressure.
From left to right, the first passage
admits control pressure to supply the
2-3 valve and close the rear servo lockout valve . The second passage admits
control pressure to apply the front
clutch and supply the governor and
transition valve. The third passage admits control pressure to flow through
the 1-2 and inhibitor valves and close
the transition valve.
With the front clutch applied, .the
primary sun gear tries to drive the
pinion carrier in a counterclockwise
direction . Counterclockwise rotation
at the pinion carrier is prevented by
the one-way clutch . With the front
clutch applied and the pinion carrier
held, the transmission is in first gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-D, SECOND GEAR
The 1-2 shift occurs when governor pressure force on the 1-2 shift
valve overcomes shift plug pressure
and spring forces . The 1-2 valve moves
inward, exhausting the fluid which
holds the transition valve closed. The
transition valve opens and admits control pressure to apply the front band .
The front clutch remains on, and
PART 7-3-F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

the front band applies to put the
transmission in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-D, THIRD GEAR
The 2-3 shift occurs when governor pressure force overcomes spring
and shift plug pressure force at the
2-3 shift valve. When the shift valve
opens, control pressure flows through
it to apply the rear clutch and release
the front band. With both clutches
applied, the transmission is in third
gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-l, SECOND GEAR
When the manual valve is at the 2
selector lever position, control pressure to the 1-2 shift valve is cut off.
This condition permits control pressure to flow through the transition
valve to apply the front band.
With the front clutch and the front
band applied, the transmission operates in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-D RANGE,
3-l KICKDOWN
II
When the accelerator pedal is depressed through the detent, the downshift valve opens a passage that admits control pressure behind the 2-3
shift plug to oppose governor pressure.
If the transmission is in high and road
speed is below 47-69 mph, the 2-3
valve will be forced closed against
governor pressure . When the 2-3 valve
closes, control pressure which has
been applying the rear clutch and releasing the front band is exhausted.
The apply pressure that was in the
front servo in third gear is now free
to apply the front band. As soon as
the front band applies, the transmission is in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-I, FIRST GEAR
In I range, first gear, control pressure is directed by the manual valve
to apply the front clutch and rear
band . Control pressure is also directed by the manual valve to lock the 1-2
and 2-3 shift valves in their closed positions. Since neither shift valve can
move, the transmission will stay in
first gear regardless of throttle position or road speed .
7-103
HYDRAULIC CONTROL
SYSTEM-REVERSE
When the manual valve is shifted
into reverse, control pressure is directed to apply the rear clutch and rear
band. Governor supply pressure is cut
off by the manual valve ; hence, the
transmission cannot shift automatically . Rear clutch pressure is also directed to the throttle valve to regulate
throttle pressure to obtain the correct
line pressure for the reverse circuit.
OIL COOLING AND

LUBRICA liNG SYSTEM
Figure I shows the transmiss ion
series cooling circuit. The converter out
circuit is directed through the oil cooler, then the cooled oil is used in the
transmission lubricating circuit.
A spring-loaded check valve is used
in the circuit to maintain approxim ately 3-5 psi in the converter out circuit.
When the converter out circuit exceeds
3-5 psi, the check ball opens against
spring pressure and cooled oil is directed to lubricate the various parts
of the transmission gear train .
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
CONTROL LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTS
The transmission control linkage
adjustments should be performed in
the order in which they appear in this
section of the manual.
THROTTLE AND
DOWNSHIFT LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTS
Adjusting the throttle linkage is important to be certain the throttle and
kickdown systems are properly adjusted. The kickdown system should come
in when the accelerator is pressed
through detent, and not before detent.
Refer to Group 10 for detailed
throttle and downshift linkage adjustment procedures.
MANUAL LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT
I. Position the transmission selector lever in D position .
l. Raise the vehicle and loosen the
manual lever shift rod retaining nut
(Fig. 31). Move the transmission

manual lever to the D position, fourth
detent position from the back of the
transmission .
3. With the transmission selector
lever a nd manual lever in the D positions, torque the attaching nut 10 to
20 ft-lbs .
4. Check the operation of the transmission in each selector lever position.
INHIBITOR SWITCH ADJUSTMENT

Select 'D? Connect test lamp leads
across terminals 1 and 3 and terminals 2 and 4. Slacken the locknut
and screw the switch inward until the
lamp goes out. Note the switch
position. Continue screwing in the
switch until the lamp lights, and
again note the switch position. Screw
out the switch until it is midway
between the two positions, and then
tighten the locknut. Check that the
lamp only lights when the selector
lever is at 'P', 'R' and 'N'.
REPLACEMENT
FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE
1. Remove the wires from the
inhibiter switch terminals.

2. Loosen the locknut and remove
the switch from its mounting bracket.
TO ASSEMBLE
Assemble the switch to the mounting bracket and adjust , as outlined
under "INHIBITER SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT".
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE

See Group 3 Section 3-4 page 3- 38 .
the manual lever control rod (Fig. 31 ).
and remove the handle (Fig. 31).
3. Prise the dial from the bezel to
gain access to the bezel attaching
screws and remove the bezel.
and the screw in the glove box.
Remove the console.
5. Disconnect the dial indicator
light.
6. Remove the attaching nuts and
7-104
GROUP 7-AUTOMATlC TRANSMISSION
FIG. 31- Selector Linkage- Floor Shift

screws and remove the console support and gear lever slide assembly.
housing.
10. Install the dial indicator light.
11. Install the selector lever handle.
in Fig. 80. With a feeler gauge check
the clearance between the detent
pawl and plate. The clearance should
be 0.005 to 0.010 inches. If necessary adjust the height of the detent
pawl as shown in Fig. 74.

selector lever.
Fig. 33. Torque the attaching bolts
to 4--6 lbs. ft.
15. Install the console support and
gear lever slide assembly.
16. Refit the dial indicator light.
17. Replace the console.
18. Refit the indicator dial bezel
and refit the dial.
20. Position the selector lever in
the N position.
21. Raise the vehicle. Install the
transmission manual lever rod to the
selector lever. With the transmission
in neutral and the selector lever
against the neutral stop, tighten the
selector lever to manual lever rod nut.
ACTUATING LEVER
'>.
0 2048 -A
FIG. 32 Typical
Adiusting Front Band
FIG. 33 Typical
Adiusting Rear Band

BAND ADJUSTMENTS
FRONT BAND
ADJUSTMENT
I. Drain the fluid from the transmission by loosening the pan attaching bolts starting at the rear of the
pan and working toward the front.
When most of the fluid has drained
from the pan, remove the remainder
of the attaching bolts. Use a clean
drain can equipped with a 100-mesh
screen if the fluid is to be reused .
2. Remove the pan, then remove
the fluid filter and cli_p from the transmission. Clean the inside of the pan.
Remove all gasket material from the
pan and pan mounting face of the
case.
3. Loosen the front servo adjusting
screw lock nut.
4. Pull back on the actuating rod,
and insert the I /4 inch spacer between
the adjusting screw and servo piston
stem (Fig . 32). Tighten the adjusting
screw to 10 in-lbs. torque . Remove the
spacer and tighten the adjusting screw
an additional 3/4 turn. Hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten
the lock nut securely.
screen and clip . Install the pan using a
new gasket.
6. Refill the transmission to the
FULL mark on the dipstick.
7. Start the engine and engage the
transmission in each drive range to fill

all fluid passages, then place the selector lever in the P position . Check the
fluid level and add enough fluid to
bring the level above the ADD mark
on the dipstick .
REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT-
Adjustment of the rear band is

performed externally.
1. Remove all dirt from the adjusting screw threads, then oil the
threads.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw
locknut.
3. Using a torque wrench and
adaptor, tighten the adjusting screw
to a torque of 10 ft.-lbs.
output shaft and rear support from

moving rearward to prevent the needle
bearing and race from dropping out of
location.
12. Remove the governor to counterweight attaching screws. Lift the
governor from the counterweight (Fig.
34).
13. Lubricate the governor valve
parts with clean transmission fluid.
Make certain that the valve moves
freely in the valve body bore.
14. Position the governor valve
body on the counterweight with the
cover facing toward the front of the
vehicle. Install and tighten the two attaching screws to the specified torque .
4. If the screw is found to be

tighter than 10 ft.-lbs. torque, loosen
the screw and then tighten to 10
ft.-lbs. torque.
5. Back off the adjusting screw 1t
turns. Hold the adjusting screw
stationary and tighten the adjusting
screw lock nut to specification.
Severe damage may result if the
adjusting screw is not backed
off exactly 1% turns.
EXTENSION HOUSING AND
GOVERNOR REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the vehicle so that the
transmission extension housing is accessible .
2. Drain the fluid from the transmission.
3. Disconnect the drive shaft from
the rear a xle and slide the front yoke
out of the extension housing.
5. Remove the two bolts that secure
the extension housing to the engine
rear support.
6. Remove the nut and bolt that secures the engine rear support to the
crossmember.
7. Raise the transmission high
enough to provide clearance for the
rear mount.
8. Lift the engine rear support from
the crossmember.
9. Lower the jack until the extension housing just clears the crossmember to remove all weight from the
housing.
10. Loosen the parking brake cable
adj ustment nut enough to disconnect
the cables from the equalizer.
a ttaching bolts. Slide the housing off
the output shaft and remove the gasket. When removing the extension
housing and / or governor, hold the
D 1815 A
FIG. 34- Governor Installed

COMPEN SATOR
PRE SSU RE TUBE
7-105
15. Position a new extension housing gasket on the rear of the transm ission case.
16. Shde the extension housing into
place and secure it to the transmission
case with the attaching bolts. Torque
the bolts to specification. With the extension housing installed, rotate the
output shaft. The shaft must rotate
freely by hand. If the shaft is tight or
bound up, it is likely that the needle
bearing and race have dropped out of
location, in which case, the transmission must be partially disassembled
and the bearing and race repositioned.
to the extension housing .
enough with a jack to position the engine rear support on the crossmember.
Secure the support to the crossmember with attaching bolt.
19. Lower the transmission and remove the jack. Secure the extension
housing to the rear support with the
two attaching bolts.
20. Connect the p a rking br a ke
cables to the equalizer and adjust the
cables as required .
22. Fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid .
OIL PAN AND CONTROL

VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the ve hide so that the
MAIN CONTROL
VALVE TUBE
VACUUM
DIAPHR ACM
RE TAINING CLI P
FRONT
SERVO
REAR
SER VO
FIG. 35- Typical Hydraulic Control System
D 18 17 A
7-106
GROUP 7-
transm1sswn fluid pan is accessible .

2. Drain the fluid from the transmission by loosening the pan attaching bolts starting at the rear of the
pan and working toward the front.
When most of the fluid has drained
from the pan, remove the remainder
of the attaching bolts. Remove the
pan and gasket. Discard the gasket. If
the same fluid is to be used again in
the transmission, filter the fluid
through a 100-mesh screen before installing it in the transmission. Re-use
the fluid only if it is in good condition.
3. Disconnect the hose from the
vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the
diaphragm unit using tool FC0-24.
Do not use any tools on the diaphragm housing, such as pliers, pipe
wrenches, etc. Do not allow solvents
to enter the diaphragm unit. Remove
the push rod . Remove the fluid screen
retaining clip and the screen.
4. Remove the fluid filter retaining
clip and the filter .
S. Remove the small compensator
pressure tube .
Remove the main pressure oil
tube by gently prying up the end that
connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then, remove the other
end of the tube from the pressure regulator. Be sure to remove the tube in
this manner. Failure to do so, could
kink or bend the tube causing excessive transmission internal leakage.
6. Loosen the front servo attaching
bolts three turns.
7. Remove the three control vaive
body attaching bolts, and lower the
valve body while pulling it off the
front servo tubes. Be careful not to
damage the 'alve body or the tubes.
8 . Before installing the control
valve body, check for a bent manual
valve by rolling it on a flat surface.
9. Install the control valve body by
aligning the front servo tubes with the
holes in the valve body. Shift the manual lever to the I detent, and place the
inner downshift lever between the
downshift lever stop and the downshift
valve . The manual valve must engage
the actuating pin in the manual detent
lever.
10. Install but do not tighten, the
control valve body attaching bolts.
1). Move the control valve body
toward the center of the case until the
clearance is less than 0.050 inch, between the manual valve and the actuating pin on the manual detent lever.
12. Torque the attaching bolts to
specification. Be sure that the rear
fluid filter retaining clip is installed
under the valve .body bolt as shown in

Figure 35.
13. Install the main pressure oil
tube. Be sure to Install the end of the
tube that connects to the pressure regulator first. Then, install the other
end of the tube into the main control
valve assembly by tapping it gently
with a soft hammer.
Install the compensator pressure tube to the pressure regulator
and the control valve body.
14. Turn the manual valve one full
turn in each manual lever detent position . If the manual valve binds against
the actuating pin in any detent position, loosen the valve body attaching
bolts and move the body away from
the center of the case . Move the valve
body only enough to relieve the binding. Torque the attaching bolts and
recheck the manual valve for binding.
IS. Position the push rod in the
bore of the vacuum diaphragm unit.
Using the diaphragm unit as a guide,
insert the push rod into the threaded
opening of the case . Torque the diaphragm unit to specification . Connect
the vacuum hose.
16. Torque the front servo attaching bolts to specification .
17. Adjust the front band.

18. Install the fluid filter and the
filter retaining clip.
19. Position a new fluid pan gasket
on the bottom of the transmission
case, and install the pan . Torque the
pan screws to specification.
' 20. Adjust the rear band.

2 I. Fill the transmission with fluid.
If the fluid that was drained from the
transmission is to . be used again, filter
the fluid through a 100-mesh screen as
it is poured back into the transmission. Re-use the fluid only if it is in
good condition.
22. If the control valve body was
replaced, adjust the transmission control linkage.
PRESSURE REGULA TOR

REPLACEMENT
I. Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid
filter .
2. Remove the small compensator
pressure tube and the large control
pressure tube from the control valve
body and the pressure regulator.
connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then remove the other
end of the tube from the pressure regulator .
Be sure to remove
the tube in this manner. Failure to do

so, could kink or bend the tube caus.
ing excessive transmission internal
leakage.
3. Remove the pressure regulator
spring retainer, springs, and spacer.
Maintain pressure on the retainer to
prevent the springs from flying out.
4. Remove the pressure regulator
attaching bolts and washers, and remove the regulator.
S. Position the replacement regulator body on the transmission case and
install the two attaching bolts. Torque
the bolts to specification.
6. Check the converter pressure and
control pressure valves to be sure the
valves operate freely in the bores.
7. Install the valve springs, spacer,
and retainer.
tube. Be sure to install the end of the
tube that connects to the pressure regulator assembly first. Then, install
the other end of the tube into the
main control assembly by tapping it
gently with a soft hammer.
Install the small compensator
pressure tube.
9. Install the fluid filter and the
pan, and fill the transmission to the
correct level with the specified fluid .
FRONT SERVO REPLACEMENT

I. Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid
filter.
unit.
3. Loosen the three control valve
body attaching bolts.
4. Remove the attaching bolts from
the front servo (Fig. 35), hold the
strut with the fingers, and remove the
servo.
5. To install the front servo, position the front band forward in the
case with the end of the band facing
downward. Make sure the front servo
anchor pin is in position in the case
web . Align the large end of the servo
strut with the servo actuating lever,
and align the small end with the band
end .
6. Rotate the band, strut, and servo
to align the anchor end of the band
with the anchor in the case.
Push the servo body onto the control valve body tubes.
7. Install the attaching bolts and
torque to specification .
8. Torque the control valve body
attaching bolts to specification .
Check the clearance between the
7-107
5. Before installing a new seal, inspect the sealing surface of the universal joint yoke for scores. If scores are
found, replace the yoke.
6. Inspect the counterbore of the
housing for burrs. Polish off all burrs
with crocus cloth.
7. Install the seal into the housing
with tool shown in Fig. 39. The seal
should be firmly seated in the bore.
PARKING PAWL
REPLACEMENT
FIG. 36 -Removing Extension Housing Seal

manual valve and manual lever actuating pin as given in Oil Pan and Control Valve Body Replacement.
9. Adjust the front band .
10. Install the vacuum diaphragm
unit and rod .
II. Install the fluid filter and pan,
and fill the transmission with fluid.
12. Adjust the downshift and manual linkage .
REAR SERVO REPLACEMENT

I, Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid
filter.
unit.
3. Remove the control valve body
and the two front servo tubes.
4. Remove the attaching bolts from
the rear servo, hold the actuating and
anchor struts with the fingers, and remove the servo.
5. To install the rear servo, position
the servo anchor strut on the servo
band, and rotate the band to engage
the strut.
6. Hold the servo anchor strut in
position with the fingers, position the
actuating lever strut, and install the
servo.
7. Install but do not tighten the

servo attaching bolts. The longer
bolt must be installed in the
inner bolt hole.
IJ. Move the rear servo (with reasonable force) toward the centerline
of the transmission case, against the
servo attaching bolts. While holding
the servo in this position, torque the
attaching bolts to specification.
9. Install the two front servo tubes
and the control valve body.
manual valve and the manual lever
actuating pin as given above in Oil
Pan and Control Valve Body Replacement.
10. Adjust the rear band.
11. Install the fluid filter and pan,
and fill the transmission with fluid .
IXTINSION HOUSING
BUSHING AND lEAR SEAL
IIEPI.ACEMENT
I. Disconnect the drive shaft from
the transmission.
2. Carefully remove the seal with
the tools shown in Fig. 36.
3. Remove the bushing as shown jn
Fig. 37. Use the bushing remover
carefully so that the spline seal is not
damaged.
4. Wben installing a new bushing
use the special tool shown in Fig. 38.
01025-1
FIG. 37- Removing Extension

Housing Bushing
EXTENSION HOUSING
01026-1
FIG. 38 -Installing Extension

Housing Bushing
1. Raise the vehicle and drain .the

fluid from the transmission.
2. Place the adjustable support
stand under the rear of the engine.
3. Remove the driveshaft.

cables from the equalizer bracket.
5.
Remove the engine rear
support-to-extension housing bolts.
6. Remove the bolt that secures the
engine rear support to the crossmember. Raise the engine with the adjustable support stand just high enough to
provide clearance for removing the
support.
7. Lower the jack until the extension housing just clears the crossmember to remove all weight from the
housing.
8.
Disconnect the speedometer
cable from the transmission .
9.
Remove the transmission pan
and fluid filter .
10. Loosen the rear band adjusting

screw lock nut and tighten the adjusting screw to 24 in.-lbs torque. This
will tighten the rear band around
the planet carrier and will hold
the planet carrier and clutch
assemblies in position during the
parking pawl repair operation.
pressure tube from the pressure regulator and control valve body.
12. Remove the main pressure oil
EXTENSION HOUSING
REAR SEAl
FIG. 39 -Installing Extension Housing Seal
7-108
kink or bend the tube causing exces..
sive transmission internal leakage.
from the vacuum diaphragm and remove the vacuum diaphragm and control rod .
14. Loosen the front servo attaching bolts.
15. Remove the three control valve
body attaching bolts and lower the
valve body while pulling it off the
front servo tubes. Be careful not to
damage the vahe body or the tubes.
16. Remove the rear servo attaching bolts and remove the rear servo
and struts.
attaching bolts and housing.
18. Remove the output shaft and
rear support assembly.
19. Remove the parking pawl pin
from the case with a magnet.
20. Working from inside of the
case, drive on the shoulder of the toggle lever (Fig. 69) pin with a small
punch to move the retaining plug part
way out of the case . Remove the plug
with a pair of pliers.
21. To remove the toggle lever pin,
II
slide the toggle lever toward the front

of the case. Cock the lever to one side
to apply pressure on the pin, then
move the toggle to the rear of the case
to move the pin outward. Repeat this
procedure until the pin can be removed from the case. Lift the pawl
and toggle from the case as an assembly.
22. Remove the pawl and toggle
lever as an assembly.
23. Position the new parking pawl
and link assembly, then install the
toggle lever pin and the plug.
24. Secure the pawl to the case
with the pawl pin.
25. Position a new gasket on the
front of the support and at the rear.
Hold them in place with transmission
fluid or vaseline.
26. Make sure that the thrust washer is in place, then position the support and output shaft in place making
sure that the pressure tubes are entered in the case.
27. Secure the extension housing to
the case with the attaching bolts.
28. Install the rear servo and strut
as outlined under Rear Servo Removal and Installation.
29. Install the main control valve
assembly as outlined under Oil Pan
and Control Valve Body Removal and

Installation .
30. Torque the front servo attaching bolts to specification.
tube and the small compensator pressure tube to the control valve body
and pressure regulator .
32. Adjust the front band.
33. Adjust the rear band.

34. Position the vacuum control
rod in the case. Install the vacuum
diaphragm unit. Connect the vacuum
hose.
35. Install the fi Iter, transmissior.
pan and a new gasket.
enough to position the engine rear
support on the crossmember. Secure
the support with the attaching bolt.
38. Lower the transmission and remove the jack. Install the two extension housing-to-engine rear support
attaching bolts.
39. Connect the parking brake
cables to the equalizer.
40. Install the driveshaft, then
lower the vehicle.
41. Fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid.
TRANSMISSION AND
CONVERTER REPLACEMENTREMOVAL
I. Raise the vehicle and remove the
cover from the front of the converter
housing. Drain the fluid from the
transmission.
2. Remove one of the converter
drain plugs. Then, rotate the converter
180 degrees and remove the other
plug. Do not attempt to turn the converter with a wrench on the converter
stud nuts.
3. When the fluid has stopped
draining from the transmission and
converter, remove the four flywheelto-converter nuts. Install the drain
plugs in the converter and torque to
specification. Install the converter
housing front plate to hold th(' converter in place when the transmission
is removed .
4. Disconnect the starter cables
from the starter and remove the starter.
5. Remove the nuts that attach
each muffler inlet pipe to the exhaust
manifolds. Separate the pipes from
the manifolds and allow them to hang.

6. Disconnect the oil cooler lines
from the transmission .
from the vacuum diaphragm unit.
cable from the extension housing, and
remove the drive shaft.
9. Disconnect the manual and
downshift linkage from the transmission.

cables from the equalizer bracket.
Remove the two rear support-tocrossmember nuts.
Position a transmission jack under
the transmission and secure the
transmission to the jack with a safety
chain.
Raise the transmission just enough
to remove the weight from the crossmember. Remove the two crossmember-to-frame side support bolts
and nuts and remove the crossmember.
Lower the transmission and remove the bolt that secures the transJruSSlon fluid filler tube to the
cylinder head. Lift the filler tube
and the dip-stick from the transmission case.
Remove the six converter housingto-cylinder block attaching bolts.

Move the jack rearward until the
transmission clears the engine, then
tip it forward to provide clearance.
Lower the transmission and remove
it from under the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
I. If the converter has been removed from the converter housing,
carefully position the converter in the
housing and install the housing lower
front cover to prevent the converter
from slipping out of the housing.
2. Rotate the converter until the
studs adjacent to the drain plugs are
in a vertical position. Rotate the flywheel as required to align the drain
plug holes with the drain plugs in the
converter.
3. Roll the transmission into position under the vehicle and raise it to
align with the engine. Remove the
housing lower front cover that was
previously installed. Move the transmission forward until the converter
housing contacts the cylinder block.
Install and torque the converter

housing to cylinder block attaching
bolts.

4. Remove the jack safety chain
5. Install a new 0-ring on the lower
end of the filler tube. Dip the 0-ring
in clean automatic transmission fluid
and insert the filler tube in the transmission case.
6. Connect the two oil cooler lines
to the transmission case.
7. Position the crossmember to the
frame side supports and install and
tighten the attaching bolts and nuts to
specification.
8. Remove the transmission jack
from under the vehicle. Install and
II
torque the rear support-to-crossmember nuts.

9. Install the converter-to-flywheel
attaching nuts and torque them to
specification.
10. Secure the converter drain plug
access cover to the lower end of the
converter housing with the attaching
bolts.
the attaching bolts to specification.
Connect the starter cables.
12. Install and tighten the filler
tube to cylinder head bolt.
13. Install the drive shaft.
7-109

15. Install the linkage rods on the
transmission downshift and manual
control levers.
16. Connect the parking brake

cables to the equalizer bracket.
17. Connect the vacuum hose to
the vacuum diaphragm unit.
18. Connect the exhaust inlet pipes
to the manifolds.
19. Lower the vehicle. Fill the
transmission to the proper level with
the specified fluid. Adjust the manual
and downshift linkage.
DISASSEMBLY OF
TRANSMISSION
I. Before removing any of the
transmission ~sub-assemblies, thoroughly clean the outside of the transmission case to prevent dirt from getting inside the mechanism.
2. After the transmission has been
removed from the vehicle, place the
assembly in the transmission holder
shown in Fig. 40.
3. Remove the transmission pan,
gasket, and filter retainer clip.
4. Lift the filter from the case.
5. Remove the spring scat from the
pressure regulator. Maintain constant
pressure on the seal to prevent distortion of the spring seat and the sudden
release of the springs. Remove the
pressure regulator springs and pilots,
but do not remove the valves.
pressure tube from the pressure regulator and the control valve body.
kink or bend the tube causing excessive transmission internal leakage.
7. Loosen the front and rear servo
band adjusting screws five turns.
Loosen the front servo attaching bolts
three turns.
unit and push rod.
9. Remove the control valve body
attaching bolts. Align the levers to
permit removal of the valve body.
Then lift the valve body clear of the
transmission case . Pull the body off
the servo tubes and remove it from the
FIG.40 -Transmission Mounted in Holding Fixture

case .
10. Remove the regulator from the
case. Keep the control pressure valve
and the converter pressure regulator
valve in the pressure regulator to
avoid damage to the valves.
II. Remove the front servo apply
and release tubes by twisting and pulling at the same time. Remove the
front servo attaching bolts. Hold the
front servo strut with the fingers, and
lift the servo from the case.
12. Remove the rear servo attaching bolts. Hold the actuating and anchor struts with the fingers, and lift
the servo from the case.
TRANSMISSION END
PLAY CHECK
I. Remove one of the front pump
attaching bolts. Mount the dial indicator support tool 77067 in the front
pump bolt hole. Mount a dial indicator on the support so that the contact
rests on the end of the turbine shaft.
2. Install the extension housing seal
replacer on the output shaft to provide
support for the shaft.

3. Pry the front clutch cylinder to
the rear of the transmission with a
large screwdriver. Set the dial indicator at zero while maintaining a slight
pressure on the screwdriver.
4. Remove the screwdriver and pry
the units toward the front of the
transmission by inserting the screwdriver between the large internal gear
and the transmission case.
5. Record the indicator reading for
use during transmission assembly. End
play should be 0.010-0.029 inch (minimum end play is preferred). If end
play is not within specifications a new
selective thrust washer must be used
when the transmission is assembled.
6. Remove the indicator support,
and, then remove the seal replacer
from the output shaft.
REMOVAL OF CASE AND
EXTENSION HOUSING
PARTS
I. Remove the rematntng front
pump attaching bolts. Then remove
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC
7-ll 0
TRANSMISSION
FRONT BAND
01957-A

Input Shaft and Clutch
OUTPUT SHAFT
D 1819-A
FIG. 41 - Rear Support and

Output Shaft Installed
the front pump and gasket. If necessary, tap the screw bosses with a softfaced hammer to loosen the pump
from the case.
2. Remove the lubrication tube
from the case. Remove the five transmission to extension housing bolts.
These bolts also attach the rear support to the case. Remove the extension housing.
3. Remove the output shaft assembly (Fig. 41). To facilitate output
shaft removal, insert a screwdriver between the output shaft ring gear and
pinion carrier and pry the output shaft
rearward. Be careful not to bend t,he
pressure tubes between the rear support or distributor sleeve and case as
the tubes are removed from the case.
4. Remove the four seal rings from
the output shaft with the fingers to
prevent breaking the rings.
5. Remove the governor snap ring
from the output shaft. Using a soft
faced hammer, tap the governor assembly off the output shaft. Remove
the governor drive ball (Fig. 42).
6. Remove the rear support and
gasket from the output shaft. Remove
the needle bearings and race from the
rear support (Fig. 42).
7. Remove the selective thrust
washer from the rear of the pinion
carrier.
8. Remove the pinion carrier.
9. Remove the primary sun gear
rear thrust bearing and races from the
pinion carrier.
10. Note the rear band position for
reference in assembly. The end of the
band next to the adjusting screw has a
depression (dimple) in the center of
the boss. Squeeze the ends of the rear
band together, tilt the band to the
rear. and remove the rear band from
the case.
II. Remove the two center support
outer bolts (one each side) from the
transmission case .
12. Exert enoug'h pressure on the
end of the input shaft to hold the
clutch units together. Then remove the
center support and the front and rear
clutch assemblies as a unit (Fig. 43).
IJ. Install the clutch assemblies in
SNAP
RING
SEAL RINGS
OUTPUT
SHAFT
GOVERNOR
GOVERNOR
D~!IVE BALL
NEEDL ROLLER
B6ARING
D 1820-A
FIG. 42- Output Shaft Disassembled
FIG. 44 -Input Shaft and Clutch

in Holding Fixture
the bench fixture (fig. 44).
14. Remove the thrust washer from
the front of the input shaft.
15. To remove the front band, position the band ends between the case
webbing and tilt the bottom of the
band rearward. Then, squeeze the
ends of the band together and remove
from the rear of the case.
16. Lift the front clutch assembly
from the primary sun gear shaft.
17. Remove the bronze and the
steel thrust washers from the rear
clutch assembly. Wire the thrust
washers together to assure correct installation.
18. Remove the front clutch seal
rings from the primary sun gear shaft.
19. Lift the rear clutch assembly
from the primary sun gear shaft.
20. Remove the rear clutch seal
rings from the primary sun gear shaft.
Do not break the seal rings.
21. Remove the primary sun gear
front thrust washer.
PARTS REPAIR AND

REPLACEMENT
During the repair of the subassemblies, certain general instructions
which apply to all units of the transmission must be followed. These instructions are given here to avoid unnecessary repetition.
Handle all transmission parts carefully to avoid nicking or burring the
bearing or mating surfaces.
Lubricate all internal parts of the
transmission with transmission fluid
before assembly. Do not use any other
lubricants except on gaskets and
thrust washers which may be coated
with vaseline to facilitate assembly.
Always install new gaskets when as-
7- 111
_'lliifl,_ CLUTCH
PISTON
CLUTCH
02038- A
FIG. 48 -Installing Rear Clutch

Piston
INSTALLATION
D 1751. A
FIG. 45- Replacing Rear Brake Drum Support Bushing

sembling parts of the transmission.
Tighten all bolts and screws to the
recommended torque. For detail
cleaning and inspection operations
refer to Section 3.
REAR BRAKE DRUM

SUPPORT BUSHING
REPLACEMENT
t. If the rear brake drum support

bushing is to be replaced, press the
bushing from the support as shown in
Fig. 45.
2. Press a new bushing into the
brake drum support with the tool
shown in Fig. 45.
OUTPUT SHAFT BUSHING
REPLACEMENT
t. Remove the output shaft bushing

if it is worn or damaged. Use the cape
Press Rom
chisel and cut along the bushing seam

until the chisel breaks through the
bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of
the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing .
2. Insert a new bushing into the installation tool and position the tool
and bushing over the output shaft hub .
Then, press the bushing on the output
shaft hub as shown in Fig. 46.
PRIMARY SUN GEAR SHAFT

I. Position the primary sun gear
shaft in the clutch bench fixture .
2. Check the fit of the seal rings in
their respective bores. If equipped
with cast iron seal rings, a clearance
of 0.002-0.009 inch should exist between the ends of the rings.
If equipped with teflon seals that
are worn or damaged, cut the seals
from the shaft with a sharp knife . He
careful not to score the ring grooves.
3. Replace the teflon seals with cast

iron seal rings, and check for free
movement in the groove .
REAR CLUTCH
I. Remove the clutch pressure plate
snap ring, and remove the pressure
plate from the drum . Remove the
waved cushion spring . Remove the
composition and steel plates.
2. Compress the spring with the
tools shown in Fig . 47 and remove the
snap ring .
3. Guide the spring retainer while
releasing the pressure to prevent the
retainer from locking in the snap ring
grooves.
4. Position the primary sun gear
shaft in the rear clutch. Place an air
hose nozzle in one of the holes in the
shaft, and place one finger over the
other hole . Then force the clutch piston out of the clutch drum with air
pressure . Hold one hand over the piston to prevent damage.
5. Remove the inner and outer seal
rings from the clutch piston .
Tool- T64L.7003.A7
Tool- T 65 l 77515 A
REAR CLUTCH
DRUM
FIG. 46 -Installing Output Shaft
FIG. 47- Removing Rear Clutch Spring Snap Ring
Bushing
D 1592-A
7-112
0 1746- A
FIG. 49- Removing Rear Clutch

Sun Gear Bushing
6. Remove the rear clutch sun gear
bushing if it is worn or damaged . Use
the cape chisel (Fig. 49) and cut along
the bushing seam until the chisel
breaks through the bushing wall. Pry
the loose ends of the bushing up with
7. Press a new .bushing into the rear
clutch sun gear with the tool shown in
Fig . 50.
8. Install new inner and outer seal
rings on the piston .
9. To install the piston in the clutch
drum, lubricate the piston seals and
tools (Fig . 48) with clean transmission
fluid .
10. Push the small fixture down
over the cylinder hub .
11. Insert the piston into the large
fixture with the seal toward the thinwalled end.
12. Hold the piston and large
fixture and insert as a unit into the
cylinder. Push down over the small
fixture until the large tool stops
Tool- T64L-7003-A3 OR Tool- T64L-7003-A4
against the shoulder in the cylinder;

then push the piston down, out of the
tool, until it bottoms in the cylinder.
Remove the tools.
13. Install the clutch release spring,
and position the retainer on the
spring.
14. Install the tool on the spring retainer as shown in Fig. 47. Compress
the clutch spring, and install the snap
ring. While compressing the spring,
guide the retainer to avoid interference
of the retainer with the snap ring
groove. Make sure the snap ring is
fully seated in the groove. When new
composition clutch plates are used,
soak the plates in automatic transmission fluid for 15 minutes before they
are assembled.
15. Install a steel clutch plate and
the waved cushion spring. Then, install steel and friction plates alternately starting with a steel plate.
16. Install the clutch pressure plate
with the bearing surface down. Then
install the clutch pressure plate snap
ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully
seated in the groove.
17. Check the free pack clearance
between the pressure plate and the
snap ring with a feeler gauge . The
clearance should be 0.030-0.055 inch.
If the clearance is not within specifications, selective snap rings are available in the following thicknesses :
0.060-0.064, 0 .074-0.078, 0 .088-0.092
and 0. 102-0.106 inch . Insert the correct size snap ring and recheck the
clearance.
18. Install the thrust washer on the
primary sun gear shaft. Lubricate all
parts with automatic transmission
fluid or petroleum jelly. Install the
two center seal rings.
19. Install the rear clutch on the
primary sun gear shaft. Be sure all of
the needles are in the hub if the unit is
equipped with loose needle bearings.
Assemble two seal rings in the front
grooves.
20. Install the steel and the bronze
thrust washers on the front of the secondary sun gear assembly. If the steel
washer is chamfered, place the chamfered side down.
D 2049A

Front Clutch Snap Ring
3. Remove the composition and the
steel clutch plates, and then remove
the pressure plate from the clutch
drum.
4. Place the front clutch spring
compressor on the release spring, position the clutch drum on the bed of
an arbor press, and compress the release spring with the arbor press until
the release spring snap ring can be removed (Fig. 51).
5. Remove the clutch release spring
from the clutch drum.
6. Install the special nozzle shown
in Fig . 52 on an air hose. Place the
nozzle against the clutch apply hole in
the front clutch housing, and force the
piston out of the housing.
7. Remove the piston inner seal
from the clutch housing. Remove the
piston outer seal from the groove in
the piston.
8. Remove the input shaft bushing
if it is worn or da maged . Use the cape
FRONT CLUTCH
FIG. 50 -Installing Rear Clutch

Sun Gear Bushing
1. Remove the clutch cover snap

ring with a screwdriver, and remove
the input shaft from the clutch drum .
the thrust surface of the clutch hub.
Insert one finger in the clutch hub,
and lift the hub straight up to remove
the hub from the clutch drum.
01959 -A
FIG. 52 Piston
Removing Front Clutch
PART
7-3-
F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
D 1752. A
FIG. 53 -Installing Input Shaft FIG. 55 -Installing Pressure Plate

Bushing
until the chisel breaks through the
the bushing up with an' awl and remove the bushing.
9. Slip a new bushing over the end
of the installation tool and position
the tool and bushing to the bushing
hole . Then, press the bushing into the
input shaft as shown in Fig. 53.
10. Lubricate all parts with transmission fluid . Install a new piston
inner seal ring in the clutch cylinder.
Install a new piston outer seal in the
groove in the piston .
II. I.nstall the piston in the clutch
housing. Make sure the steel bearing
ring is in place on the piston.
12. Position the release spring in
the clutch cylinder with the concave
side up. Place the release spring compressor on the spring, and compress
the spring with an arbor press. Then
FIG. 56 -Installing Clutch Plates
D 1047-B
FIG. 57- Front Pump Disassembled
REMOVAL
FIG. 54 -Installing Clutch Hub
7-113
install the snap ring as shown in Fig.

51. Make sure the snap ring is fully
seated in the groove.
13. Install the front clutch housing
on the primary sun gear shaft by rotating the clutch units to mesh the
rear clutch plates with the serrations
on the clutch hub. Do not break the
seal rings.
14. Install the clutch hub in the
clutch cylinder with the deep counterbar down (Fig. 54). Install the thrust
washer on the clutch hub.
15. Install the pressure plate in the
clutch cylinder with the bearing surface up (Fig . 55). Install the composition and the steel clutch plates alternately, starting with a composition
plate (Fig. 56). Lubricate the plates as
they are installed.
The final friction plate to be installed is selective. Install the thickest
plate that will be a minimum of 0.010
inch below input shaft shoulder in cylinder. For all other plates, use the
thinnest available. Refer to the Specifications Section for available plate
thickness.
16. Install the turbine shaft in the
clutch cylinder, and then install the
snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is
fully seated in the groo1e.
17. Install the thrust washer on the
turbine shaft.
FRONT PUMP
I. Remove the stator support attaching screws and remove the stator
support. Mark the top surface of the
pump driven gear with Prussian blue
to assure correct assembly. Do not
scratch the pump gears.
2. Remove the drive and driven
gears from the pump body.
INSTALLATION
FIG. 58- Replacing Front Pump Housing Bushing
0 1748- A
7-114
3. Refer to Fig. 57 for a disassembled view of the front pump. Inspect the pump body housing, gear
pockets and crescent for scores.
4. If the pump housing bushing is
to be replaced, press the bushing from
the front housing with the tools shown
in Fig. 58.
pump housing with the handle and
6. If any parts other than the stator
support or bushings are found defective, replace the pump as a unit.
Minor burrs and scores may be removed with crocus cloth . The stator
support is serviced separately.
7. Bolt the front pump to the transmission case with capscrews.
8. Install the oii seal remover
shown in Fig . 59. Then pull the front
1ooi- 1501-!00-A
seal from the pump body .

9. Clean the pump body counterbore. Then inspect the bore for rough
spots. Smooth up the counterbore
with crocus cloth.
10. Remove the pump body from
the transmission case.
11. Coat the outer diameter of a
new seal with FoM oCo Sealing Compound, or its equivalent. Then position
the seal in the pump body. Drive the
seal into the pump body with the tool
shown in Fig. 60 until the seal is firmly seated in the body. Toel 77837 may
be reworked (fig_ 61) to install the
latest type seal. 12. Place the pump driven gear in
the pump body with the mark on the
gear facing down . Install the drive
gear in the pump body with the chamfered side of the flats facing down .
13. Install the stator support and
attaching screws. Check the pump
gears for free rotation .
REAR SUPPORT BUSHING
REPLACEMENT
I. Remove the three pressure tubes
from the support housing.
FIG. 59- Removing Front Pump

Seal
To ol - T64L-7003-A2
Hondic
D2050-A
liii~=:iiiiiir'~01963-A
FIG. 60 -Installing Front Pump
Seal
FIG. 62 -Installing Rear Support

Housing Bushing
2. Remove the rear support bushing

if it is worn or damaged. Use a cape
until the chisel breah through the
the bushing up with an awl and remove tlie bushing.
support housing with the tool shown
in Fig . 62.
4. Install the pressure tubes.
PRESSURE REGULATOR
I. Remove the valves from the regulator body .
2. Remove the regulator body cover
attachin~ screws,
and remove the
cover (Fig. 63).
3. Remove the separator plate .
4. Wash all parts thoroughly in
clean solvent and blow dry with
moisture-free compressed air.
5. Inspect the regulator body and
cover mating surfaces for burrs.
6. Check all fluid passages for obstructions.
7. Inspect the control pressure and
converter pressure valves and bores for
burrs and scores. Remove all burrs
carefully with crocus cloth.
8. Check the free movement of the
valve in their bores. Each valve should
fall freely into its bore when both the
valve and bore are dry .
9. Inspect the valve springs for distortion .
10. Position the separator plate on
the regul a tor cover.
11. Position the regulator cover and
separator plate on the regulator body,
and install the attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification.
12. Insert the valves in the pressure
regulator body (Fig. 63).
CONTROL VALVE BODY
During the disassembly of the control valve assembly, avoid damage to
valve parts and keep the valve parts
clean . Place the valve assembly on a
clean shop towel while performing the
disassembly operation. Do not sepa-
01964-A
FIG. 61 - Front Pump Seal
lnstallin9 Tool Modification
FIG. 63 -Pressure Regulator Disassembled
7-l
PART
7-115
F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
SIDE
PLATE
23 SHIFT
DELAY VAL VE
23 DELAY AND THROTTLE

REDUCING VALVE SLEEVE
END
(:?
PLATE
/
-----
I1
THROTTLE
REDUCING
VALVE
~~
--
~~~~~
"'
-'
/r/CDMPENSATDR ::E......_........_
AND PLUG
........
Qj
~
0-.~
~
THROTTLE BOOST
VALVE
' ~>
'-.......
-'".
\..-...,
COMPENSATOR
VALVE
........
~
MANUAL
/VALVE
~'~ ' ' '\.

~ '!? 1
'\\
........
_/DDWNSHIFTVALVE
0
THROTTLE BOOST
SHORT VALVE AND SLEEVE
/
........ -
__..
SPRING RETAINER
\ . \ - 21 SCHEDULING
-cw
VALVE
~ ~
~ -..--UPPER BODY
~~~~
\..,:Jj?'~
COMPENSATOR
- - - C U T-BACK VALVE
'
,.- - - P L U G
THROTTLE -------<~
VALVE
. ~
FIG. 64- Control Valve Disassembled
7-116
rate the upper and lower valve bodies

and co~er until after the ~alves ha~e
been re mo~ed.
Disassembly
1. Remove the manual valve (Fig.
64).
2. Remove the throttle valve body
and the separator plate. Be careful not
to lose the check valve when removing
the separator plate from the valve
body. Remove the throttle valve and
plug.
3. Remove one screw attaching the
separator plate to the lower valve
body. Remove the upper body front
plate . The plate is spring-loaded.
Apply pressure to the plate while removing the attaching screws.
4. Remove the compensator sleeve
and plug, and remove the compensator valve springs. Remove the comP.ensator valve.
' 5. Remove the throttle boost short
valve and sleeve. Remove the throttle
boost valve spring and valve.
6. Remove the downshift valve and
spring. Remove the 2-1 scheduling
valve retainer from the valve body and
remove the spring and valve.
7. Remove the upper valve body
rear pia te.
8. Remove the compensator cut
back valve.
9. Remove the lower body side
plate (Fig. 64). The plate is springloaded. Apply pressure to the plate
while removing the attaching screws.
10. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and
spring. Remove the inhibitor valve and
spring.
11. Remove the two screws attaching the separator plate to the cover.
Remove the lower body end plate. The
end plate is spring-loaded. Apply pressure to the plate while removing the
attaching screws.
12. Remove the low servo lockout
valve, low servo modulator valve and
spring.
13. Remove the 2-3 delay and
throttle reducing valve sleeve, the
throttle reducing valve, spring, and the
2-3 shift delay valve. Remove the 2-3
shift valve spring and valve.
14. Remove the transition valve
spring and valve.
15. Remove the plate (Fig. 64)
from the valve body cover.
16. Remove the check ball spring
and check ball. Remove the 3-2 kickdown control valve spring and valve.
17. Remove the 1-2 shift accumulator valve spring retainer from the
cover. Remove the spring, 1-2 shift accumulator valve and 1-2 shift accumulator lockout valve .
CHECK VA L VE
D 2051A
FIG. 65- Check Valve Locations

18. Remove the through bolts and
screws. Then, separate the bodies. Remove the separator plates from the
valve bodies and cover. Be careful not
to lose the check valves.
Assembly
l. Arrange all parts in their correct
positions (Fig. 64). Rotate the valves
and plugs when inserting them in their
bores to avoid shea ring of soft body
castings .
2. Place the check valve in the
upper body as shown in Fig. 65. Then,
position the separator plate on the
body.
3. Position the lower body on the
upper body, and start but do not
tighten the attaching screws.
4. Place the check valve in the
cover (Fig. 65) and position the cover
and separator plate on the lower body.
Start the four through bolts.
5. Align the separator with the
upper and lower valve body attaching
bolt holes. Install and torque the four
valve body bolts to specification. Excessive tightening of these bolts may
distort the valve bodies, causing ~alves
or plugs to stick.
6. Install the 3-2 kickdown control
valve and spring and the check ball
and spring in the cover. Install the
plate.
7. Insert the 1-2 shift accumulator
lockout valve, 1-J shift accumulator
valve, and spring in the cover. Install
the valve spring retainer.
8. Install the transition valve and
spring in the lower body.
9. Install the 2-3 shift valve and
spring. Install the 2-3 shift delay valve
and the spring and throttle reducing
valve in the sleeve . Slidt the sleeve
and valve into position in the lower
body.
10. Install the low servo lockout
valve spring. Install the low servo
modulator and low servo lockout
valves. Install the lower body end
plate.
11. Install the inhibitor valve spring
and valve in the lower body .
12. Install the 1-2 shift valve spring
and valve. Install the lower body side
plate.
13. Install the compensator cutback
valve in the upper body. Install the
upper body rear plate.
14. Install the 2-1 scheduling valve,
spring, and spring retainer in the
body. Install the downshift valve
spring and valve.
15. Install the throttle boost valve
and spring. Install the throttle boost
short valve and sleeve.
16. Install the compensator valve,
PART 7-~ F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

inner and outer compensator springs,
and the compensator sleeve and plug.
17. Position the front plate. Apply
pressure to the plate while installing
the two attaching screws.
1~. Install the throttle valve, plug
and check valve in the throttle valve
body. Position the separator on the
upper body and install the throttle
valve body. Install the three attaching
screws.
19. Install four screws attaching the
cover to the lower body, two screws
attaching the separator plate to the
upper body, and one screw attaching
the separator plate to lower body.
Torque the cover and body screws to
specitica tion.
20. Install the manual valve.
GOVERNOR
I. Remove the governor valve body
4. Install the governor valve and

spring assembly in the bore of the
valve body. Install the sleeve, and
plug.
5. Install the body on the counterweight. Make sure the fluid passages
in the body and the counterweight are
aligned.
6. Position the valve body cover on
the body, and install the screws.
FRONT SERVO
1. Remove the servo piston retainer snap ring (Fig. 67). The servo
piston is spring-loaded. Apply pressure to the piston when removing
the snap ring.
2. Remove the servo piston retainer and servo piston from the servo
body. It may be necessary to tap the
piston stem lightly with a soft-faced
hammer to separate the piston
retainer from the servo body.
3. Remove all the seal rings, and
remove the spring from the servo
body.
VALVE BODY
~VALVE
RETAINING
----'~CLIP
"''"' '"'"' ____.\\~

PLUG___.,
D1966A
FIG. 66 -Governor Disassembled
4. Inspect the servo body for

cracks and the piston bore and the
servo piston stem for scores (Fig. 67).
Check fluid passages for obstructions.
free movement, and inspect it for
wear. If it is necessary to replace the
actuating lever shaft. remove the retaining pin and push the shaft out of
the bracket. If the shaft is not retained by a pin, it is retained in the
body by serrations on one end of the
shaft. These serrations cause a press
fit at that end . To remove the shaft,
press on the end opposite the serrations.
Inspect the adjusting screw threads
and the threads in the lever.
6. Check the servo spring and servo
band strut for distortion.
BODY
lOCK WASHER
ADJUSTING SCREW
PIN _ _
I!ETURN PISTON
FIG. 67- Front Servo- Disassembled
SHAFT-
D114SC
7-117
7. Inspect the servo band lining for

excessive wear and bonding to the
metal. The band should be replaced if
worn to a point where the grooves are
not clearly evident.
8. Inspect the band ends for cracks
and check the band for distortion.
9. Lubricate all parts of the front
servo with transmission fluid to facilitate assembly.
10. Install the 0-ring on the piston

retainer. Install new 0-rings on the
servo piston.
11. Position the servo piston release spring in the servo body. Install
the servo piston and retainer in the
servo body as an assembly. Compress
the assembly into the body, and
secure it with the snap ring. Make
sure the snap ring is fully seated
in the groove.
12. Install the adjusting screw and
locknut in the actuating lever if they
were previously removed.
REAR SERVO
I. Remove the servo actuating lever
shaft retaining pin with a I /8-inch
punch . Remove the shaft and actuating lever needle bearings and thrust
washers.
2. Press down on the servo spring
retainer, and remove the snap ring.
Release the pressure on the retainer
slowly to prevent the spring from
flying out.
3. Remove the retainer and servo

spring (Fig. 68).
4. Force the piston out of the servo
body with air pressure. Hold one hand
over the piston to prevent damage .
5. Remove the accumulator piston
from the servo piston.
6. Remove the piston seal ring.
7. Install a new seal ring on the
servo piston .
8. Install the accumulator piston in
the servo piston .
9. Install the piston in the servo
body. Lubricate the parts to facilitate
assembly. Install the servo spring with
the small coiled end against the servo
piston.
10. Install the spring retainer.
Compress the spring with a C-clamp.
Then install the snap ring. The snap
ring must be fully seated in the
groove.
II. Install the needle bearings in
the actuating lever. Install the actuating lever and thrust washers with the
socket in the lever bearing on the piston stem. Install the actuating lever
shaft, aligning the retaining pin holes,
and install the pin.
7-118
SERVO
SHAFT
stall the assembly in the transmission

case by installing the pawl pin and the
toggle lever pin . Install the torsion
lever assembly. Position the spring on
the torsion lever with a screwdriver.
Make certain that the short side of
toggle does not extend beyond the
largest diameter of the ball or the toggle lever pin (Fig. 69). Tap the toggle
lever in or out as necessary to center
the toggle lever on the ball.
4. Install the manual lever and
shaft in the transmission case. Position the detent lever on the shaft, and
secure it with a nut. Tighten the nut
to 20-30 ft-lbs torque . Rotate the
manual lever to the rear of the case.
Position the detent spring in the case.
Hold the detent plug on the spring
with a 3f 16-inch socket wrench, then
depress the spring until the plug is
flush with the case. Carefully rotate
the manual lever to the front of the
case to secure the pl11g. A piece of
thin walled tubing may be used to
depress the plug if a small socket
BODY
PIN
CHECK VALVE
SPRING
ACCUMULATOR
PISTON
SERVO
PISTON
SPRING RETAINER
SNAP RING
D 1821 - A
FIG. 68- Rer Servo- Disuembled

free movement .
TRANSMISSION CASE
LINKAGE REPAIR
Disassembly
I. Remove the inner downshift lever
shaft nut (Fig. 69). Then remove the
inner downshift lever.
2. Remove the outer downshift
lever and shaft. Remove the downshift
shaft seal from the counterbore in the
manual lever shaft.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the
parking pawl toggle operating rod and
remove the clip from the parking pawl
operating lever. Remove the parking
pawl operating rod .
4. Rotate the manual shaft until the
detent lever clears the detent plunger.
Then remove the detent plunger and
spring. Do not allow the detent plunger to fly out of the case.
5. Remove the manual lever shaft
nut, and remove the detent lever. Remove the outer manual lever and shaft
from the transmission case.
6. Tap the toggle lever sharply
toward the rear of the case to remove
the plug and pin.
7. Remove the pawl pin by working
the pawl back and forth . Remove the
pawl and toggle lever assembly, and
then disassemble .
8. Remove the manual shaft seal
and case vent tube . Remove the oil
cooler return check valve from the
back of the case .
with the pawl link pin, washer, and

pawl return spring. Assemble the toggle lever to the link with the toggle
link pin. Position the pawl return
spring over the toggle link pin, and secure it in place with the washer and
the small retainer clip (Fig. 69). In-
b, ,
,/:t::
DOWNSHIFT
SHAFT SEAL....,_
i(~ 1.., .. TORSION
(,
"'
ff:' LEVE~.-=-,~4C
, , . , , PIN
DO~~~HI~~~AFT
II
DETENT SPRINGYETENT PLUNGER

DETEN'r
MANUAL SHAFT NUT
/
LEVER
'-'
INNER DOWNSHIFT LEVER
MANUAL SHAFT
AND LEVER
' . V
~,.
.I
DOWNSHIFT
)I'SHAFT NUT TOGGLE LIFT
I lf(t'JJC
LEVER SPRING
a,/'
r
~
~ __ ' ,.TORSION LEVER~@~ PAWL
s::~u~L ~<~~''"
.
--~~~~~~
1 LIN;A:
"- -
TOGGLE
~~LINK
Lif~~~~~R
PIN
PIN
~ ~
LEVER~ - ~~ ~ ~
SPRING~~~
PAWL RETURN
TOGGLE LEVER
PIN~"'''J?
\LINK
PLUG~ RETAINER
(i
PAWL
01967-A
FIG. 69- Transmission Case Control Linkage
Aaembly
I. Coat the outer diameter of a new
manual shaft seal with sealer, then install the seal in the case witli a driver.
2. Install the vent tube in the transmission case.
3. Assembly the link to the pawl
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
FIG. 70- Replacing Transmission Case Bushing
D 1745-8
7-119

wrench is not available.
5. Position the ends of the parking
pawl operating rod in the detent lever
and toggle lift lever, and secure with
the two small retaining pins.
6. Install a new seal on the downsh ift lever shaft, then install the lever
and shaft in the case . Position the
inner downshift lever on the inner end
of the shaft with the mark 0 facing
toward the center of the case. Install
the lock washer and nut, then tighten
the nut to 17-20 ft-lbs torque .
7. Check the operation of the linkage. The linkage should operate freely
without binding.
TRANSMISSION CASE
BUSHING REPLACEMENT
I. If the transmission case bushing
is to be replaced, press the bushing
out of the case with the tools shown in
Fig. 70.
2. Install a new transmission case
bushing with the tool shown in Fig.
70.
Installation -Center Support

With Chamfered Edge
I. Install the center support and the
rear band in the case.
2. Install the primary sun gear rear
thrust bearing race, needle bearing,
and front thrust bearing race if used
in the planet carrier using petroleum
jelly to retain them in place.
3. Lubricate the bearing surface on
the center support, the rollers of the
planetary clutch, and the cam race in
the carrier with petroleum jelly (Fig .
71).
4. Install the planetary clutch in the
carrier (Fig. 72).
5. Carefully position the planet carrier on the center support. Move the
carrier forward until the clutch rollers
are felt to contact the bearing surface
of the center support.
6. While applying forward pressure

on the planet carrier, rotate it counterclockwise, as viewed from the rear
(Fig. 72). This will cause the clutch
rollers to roll toward the large opening end of the cams in the race, compressing the spring slightly, so that the
rollers will ride up the chamfer on the
planetary support a nd onto the inner
race .
7. Push the planet carrier all the
way forward .
8. Check the operation of the planetary clutch by rotating the carrier counterclockwise. It should rotate counterclockwise (viewed from the rear)
with a slight drag, and it should lock
up when attempting to rotate it in a
clockwise dir::ction.
9. Install the selective thrust washer
on the pinion carrier rear pilot. If the
end play was not within specifications
CENTER SUPPORT
" CAM TYPE "" CLUTCH RACE
ASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION
Do not use force to assemble mating parts. If the parts do not assemble
freely, examine them for the cause of
the difficulty. Always use new gaskets
and seals during the assembly operations.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES
CHAMFER ON PRODUCTION
PART, ONLY-SERVICE PART NOT CHAMFERED
PLANET CARRIER
01938-A
FIG. 71 -Planetary Clutch, Planet Carrier and Center Support

I. Install the front band in the
transmission case so that the anchor
end is aligned with the anchor in the
case .
2. Make sure the thrust washer is
in place on the input shaft. Lift the
clutch assemblies out of the holding
block . Do not allow the clutches to
separate.
3. Install the clutch sub-assemblies
in the transmission case while positioning the servo band on the drum.
Hold the units together while installing them (Fig. 43).
CENTER SUPPORT,
ONE-WAY CLUTCH,
PINION CARRIER, AND
OUTPUT SHAFT
The production center supports are
chamfered at the edge of the race
(Fig. 71). The service center supports
are not chamfered . The following assembly procedures cover both types of
center supports.
D 1292-C
FIG. 72 -Planetary Clutch Installation in Carrier- Chamfered

Center Support
7-120
when checked prior to disassembly,

replace the washer with one of proper
thickness. Refer to the Specification
Section of Group 7 for selective thrust
washer thickness.
10. Install the output shaft, carefully meshing the internal gear with the
pinions.
CENTER
Installation-Center Support
not Chamfered
I. Install the center support and the

rear band in the case.
2. Install the primary sun gear, rear
thrust bearing race, needle bearing
and front thrust bearing race if used
in the planet carrier using petroleum
jelly to retain them in place.
3. Lubricate the bearing surface of
the center support, the rollers of the
planetary clutch, and the cam race in
the carrier with vaseline .
4. Install the planetary clutch on
the center support with the saw teeth
of the clutch cage pointing in the
clockwise direction as viewed from the
rear (Fig. 73). Make sure that all rollers are in the cage.
S. Position the planet carrier on the
support so that the cams in the carrier
engage the saw teeth on the clutch
cage.
6. Push the planet carrier forward
until the rollers are felt to contact the
surface of the cam race.
7. While applying forward pressure
on the carrier, rotate it counterclockwise as viewed from the rear. This will
cause the rollers to roll toward the
large opening end of the cams in the
race, compressing the springs slightly,
so that the rollers will enter the cams.
8. Some rollers may become
cocked preventing their entry into the
outer race. These rollers must be positioned individually with a small screwdriver by. pushing the rear of the rollers toward the transmission and into
the cam race (Fig. 73). Keep pressure
applied to the carrier at all times.
9. After all of the rollers have been
started into the cam race, rotate the
carrier counterclockwise while pushing
it forward. Again, straighten any rollers which still may be in a cocked position and prevent the carrier from
sliding onto the support.
10. Make sure that all springs are
entered in the cam race before attempting to push the carrier on the
support. Push the carrier all the way
forward and check the operation of
the clutch by rotating it in a counterclockwise direction . The carrier
should rotate counterclockwise with a
slight drag and should lock up when
MOVE
TOWARD CENTER
D 12910
FIG. 73- Planetary Clutch Installation in Carrier- Center Support

Not Chamfered
attempting to rotate it in a clockwise
direction .
II. Install the selective thrust washer on the pinion carrier rear pilot. If
the end play was not within specifications when checked prior to disassembly, replace the washer with one of
proper thickness. Refer to the Specification Section of Group 7 for selective
thrust washer thick ness.
12. Install the output shaft, cardully meshing the internal gear with the
pinions.
REAR SUPPORT
I. Position the needle bearing and
retainer on the rear support (Fig. 42).
2. Position a new rear support to
case gasket on the rear support. Re-
tain the gasket with transmission

fluid.
3. Install the rear support. As the
support is installed, insert the tubes
into the case.
GOVERNOR
I. Position the governor drive ball
in the pocket in the output shaft. Retain the ball with transmission fluid.
2. Install the governor assembly, aligning the groove with the ball in the
output shaft.
3. Install the governor with the governor body plate toward the front of
the vehicle (Fig. 41). Install the governor snap rin~~:.
EXTENSION HOUSING
I. Insert the extension housing oil
DETENT PAWL
-fiiii!I~~A.;D
::_J:USTMENT SCREW
'I
FIG. 7 4 -Selector Lever Detent Pawl Adiustment - Typical
PART 7-J- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

seal replacer and pilot in the housing.
Position a new gasket to the extension
housing and install the extension
housing on the transmission case.
Coat the bolt threads with 85A19554-A sealer and install the extension housing attaching bolts, breather
tube clip, vacuum tube clip, and external tooth lock washer. The lock washers must be installed with the rolled
edge toward the transmission case to
Insure a tight seal.
1. Torque the extension housing at
taching bolts to specification.
3. Install the lubrication tube.
FRONT PUMP
1. Position a new front pump gasket in the counterbore of the transmission case .
1. Install the front pump, aligning
the pump bolt holes with the holes in
the case. Install three of the front
pump attaching bolts and torque them
to specification.
TRANSMISSION END
PLA \'CHECK
band, strut, and servo into position

engaging the anchor end of the band
with the anchor pin in the case.
3. Locate the servo on the case, and
install the attaching bolts. Tighten the
attaching bolts only two or three
threads.
4. Install the servo release tube.
REAR SERVO
1. Position the servo anchor strut,

and rotate the rear band to engage the
strut.
1. Position the servo actuating
lever strut with a finger, and then install the servo and attaching bolts.
Move the rear servo (with reasonable
force) toward the centerline of the
transmission case, against the servo
attaching bolts. While holding the
servo in this position, torque the attaching bolts to specification.
3. Install the front servo apply

tube.
PRESSURE REGULATOR
BOD\'
1. Install
1. Mount the dial indicator support

in a front pump bolt hole. Mount a
dial indicator on the support so that
the contact rests on the end of the turbine shaft.
1. Use a large screwdriver to pry
the front of the clutch drum toward
the rear of the transmission. Set the
dial indicator at zero.
3. Remove the screwdriver and pry
the units toward the front of the
transmission by inserting a screwdriver between the large internal gear and
the transmission case. Note the i'ndicator reading. End play should be
0.010-0.029 inch (minimum end play
is preferred).
4. Remove the indicator and the
tool from the extension housing.
5. Install the one remaining front
pump attaching bolt and torque it to
specification.
FRONT SERVO
1. Position the front band forward
in the case with the band ends up.
1. Position the servo strut with the
slott~d end aligned with the servo actuating lever, and with the small end
aligned with the band end. Rotate the
the pressure regulator

body and attaching bolts, and torqu~
the bolts to specifications.
1. Install the control and converter
valve guides and springs. Install the
spring retainer.
CONTROL VALVE BOD\'
1. Install the control valve assembly, carefully aligning the servo tubes
with the control valve. Align the inner
downshift lever between the stop and
the downshift valve. Shift the manual
lever to the I position. Align the manual Yahe with the actuating pin in the
manual detent leer. Do not tighten
the attaching bolts.
1. Move the control valve body
toward the center of the case until the
clearance is less than 0.050 inch between the manual valve and the actuating pin on the manual detent lever.
3. Torque the attaching bolts to
specification. Be sure that the rear
fluid screen retaining clip is installed
under the valve body bolt as shown in
Fig. 35.
tube. Be sure to install the end of the
tube that connects to the pressure re-
7-121
gulator assembly first. Then, install

the other end of the tube into the
main control assembly by tapping it
gently with a soft hammer.
5. Install the small control pressure
compensator tube in the valve body
and regulator.
6. Turn the manual valve one full
turn in each manual lever detent position. If the manual valve binds against
the actuating pin in any detent position, loosen the valve body attaching
bolts and move the body away from
the center of the case. Move the body
only enough to relieve the binding.
Torque the attaching bolts and check
the mapual valve for binding.
7. TQ'fque the front servo attaching
FRONT AND REAR
BAND ADJUSTMENTS
Adjust the front and rear bands as
detailed in Section 5.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM UNIT
1. Position the control rod in the
bore of the vacuum diaphragm unit
and install the diaphragm unit. Make
sure the control rod enters the throttle
valve as the vacuum unit is installed.
1. Torque the diaphragm unit to
specification.
FLUID FILTER
AND OIL PAN
l. Position the fluid filter on the
rear clip ~o that the tang enters the
hole in the filter flange. Then, rotate
the filter (clockwise) until the grommet is over the pump inlet port of the
valve body regulator and press the filter down firmly. Install the filter retaining clip.
1. Place a new gasket on the transmission case artd install the pan . Install the attaching bolts and lock
washers and torque the bolts to specification.
If the converter and converter housing were removed from the transmission, install these components. Position the transmission assembly on the
transmission jack, and refer to Transmission Installation Procedures for installing the transmission.
7-122
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
7-4
MODEL APPLICATION
FALCON
TRANSMISSION MODEL
COLOUR
IDENTIFICATION
TYPE
200 CID
0546002
G.T.A.
Black
250 CID
0546-001
G.T.A.
Green
CLUTCH PLATES
CONVERTOR
REAR CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
MODEL
11 in.
Mean diameter of fluid circuit

Maximum torque multiplication
2:1
Stall speed
Engine RPM
in drive
200 CID
1800-1900
250 CID
1850-1950
FRONT CLUTCH
STEEL
PLATES
COMPOSITION
PLATES
STEEL
PLATES
COMPOSITION
PLATES
0546-002
0546-001
SHIFT POINTS: 3.23:1 Diff. ratio.

Manual
Shift
Throttle
M.P.H.
1-2
K.D.
2-3
K.D
3-2
K.D.
3-1
K.D.
31-39
53-61
44-54
19-29
Manual
Shift
Throttle
1-2
Zero
2-3
Zero
3-1
Zero
2-1
Zero
8EAIIIIATIOS -All MOORS
M.P.H.
8-10
10-13
4-8
10-18
a. No shift to 1st or 3rd in 2.

b. No K.D. to 1st gear above 29 mph.
LINE PRESSURE:
Idle Pressure
D
2
1
Rev.
Neutral
58-70
58-70
58-70
58-70
58-70
Stall Pressun
ltD. Pressure after CutbiCk
200-250
90-115
200-250
90-115
200-250
90-115
Rev.
200-250
Check pressures with transmission at ambient temperature and at 220f
FIRST
4.78-2.39:1
SECOND
2.90- 1.45:1
THIRD
2.00-1.00:1
REVERSE
4.18-2.09:1
7-123
LUBRICANT
Cepecity (including converter)
Auto-trMsmission Fluid
To Ford Specificotion M2C33 F
14! Imp. pints
Normol operoting temperoture
100 to 115c
Torque Figures (All Figures expressed
1n
Ft. Lbs. excepted where otherwise stoted).
Tronsmission cose to converter housinQ

l::xtension housinQ to trMsmission cose
Tronsmission Oil Pon
Front servo to tronsmission cose
Reor servo to tronsmission cose
Pump odaptor to pump body (set-screwl
15/16 in bolt}
Pump odoptor to tronsmission cose
Kear adaptor to transmission case li in . boltl
.._.entre support to transmission cose
Outer lever to manuol valv& shaft
Pressure point (use sealer!
bearbox droin pluQ
Oil tube collector to lower body
Governor line plate to lower body
_1-_ower body end plote to lower body
_lJpper body trent or rear end plate to upper body
Upper body to lower body
Valve bodies assembly to tronsmission case
Front pump strainer to lower body
Downshitt volve com bracket to volve body
Governor body to sleeve
Governor cover plote to governor body
Front servo lever adjustrng screw nut
Rear servo "djusting screw locknut
_Starter inhibitor switch locknut
Downshift valve control cable odaptor to case
Filler tube t:onnecter odoptor to cose
Filler tube to connector sleeve nut
Stone Quords to convertor housing
Drive plate to torque converter
17-22
8-10
8-10
8- 10
10-13
24-36
17-22
8- 18.5
4 -5
10-13
10- 15
4-5
IU-14
20-30
20-30
20-30
20-30
LU-JU
4-5
20-30
LU JU
in.
in.
in .
in.
rn.
lb.
lb.
lb.
lb.
lb.
in . lb .
rn . lb .
4-!>
20-30 in. lb .
15-20
L!> -JU
4-6
10- 12
20-30
17 - 18
1.4-1.6
25 -30
7-124
C4 TRANSMISSION MODELS
250 C.I.D.
250 C.I.D.
302 C.I.D.
351 C.I.D.
1V
2V
2V
2V
CONTROL PRESSURE AT DRO OUTPUT SHAn'

SPEED-C4 TRANSMISSION
CHtrtl
Stltct
Manlftlll
Enlint
~~~
Thrtttlt
LtYir
Vac.lna. H8.
Spttd
(I'SI)
l'tsiUtll
Idle
Closed
P, N, 0
I, 2
(!)Above18
As Req'd.
As Req'd.
Ap~rox.
1.0
0, 2, I
As RfQ'd.
As Req'd.
10
As Req'd.
As Req'd.
Below
3
0, 2, I
0, 2, I
R
52-85
52-115
52-180
Pressure
starts
olncr...
96-110
143-160
230-260
(!)Cars checked al hiah altitudes

At altitudes above sea level it may not bt l:'lble to obtlin 18" ot enaint
vacuum at idle. For idle vacuums of less t n 18" refer to followin& table
to determine idle speed pressure specificalion in forward drivin& ranp
(0).
Ctlltrtl l'rassllt (PSI)
Enlint Vacuu11
17
16
15
14
13
12
52-74
52-78
52-85
LUBRICANT REFILL CAPACITY

302
Capacity
Type
(Imp.) 7'!.. qts.

M2C33F
351
(Imp.) 8'!.. qts.
M2C33F
CONTROL VALVI IODY SPRING IDINTIFICATION
Tllrust Wasil Itt. 2

MICII
lilt. StaPttl
Tllnst
Wa.W
Wasil
3
2
1
Spacer
0.075.0.073
0.058.0.056
0.043-0.041
0.032-0.0360.
a)Selectaon an paars not applicable.

This is a selective spacer. The sp;!cer must be installed next
to the stator support to obtain correct end play.
Model PEE-AC1
13
12
10
12
12
15
14
15
10
11
8
Model PEF
9.5
0.853
0.300
0.0212
2.50
0.390
Orange
11
9
1.40
1.667
0.350
0.668
0.0286
0.0507
1.49
7.30
0.739
0.586
None
None
Total
Coils
Manual Valve Detent

2-3 Backout Valve
1-2 Transition Valve:
Throttle Downshift Valve:
low Servo Modulator Valve:
Main Oil Pressure Reg., Valve Inner

Main Oil Pressure Reg., Valve Outer
s,tcllcalltl
0.008.0.042 inch
Stlectivt Thrust WIShers
Available
Turbine and Stator End Play Check 0.040 inch (maximum)
lnttrmtdialt Band Adjustment
Adjust tcrtw to 10 ft-lbs torque,
tnd back off 1~ turns
lowRtvtrst Band Adjustment
Adjust tcrew to 10 ftlbs tor9ut,
and back off thrtt turns
Forward Clutch Pressure Plale
0.025 to 0.050 inch
to Snap Rina Clttranc:e
Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses
0.050-0.054
0.064-0.068
0.078-0.082
0.092-0.096
0.048-0.074 inch
Reverse-Hip Clutch Prtailra
Plitt to Snap ttina Clurance
Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses
0.050-0.054
0.064-0.068
0.078-0.082
0.092-0.096
SILICTIVI THRUST WASHIISCONTROL TRANSMISSION IND PLAY
(No. 1 and 2)
Spring
Free
Length Dia. 0.0.
(Inches) (Inches)
leaf Type
1.345
0.345
1.150
0.330
0.816
0.280
1.158
0.380
1.335
0.380
1.191
0.281
1.192
0.295
1.513
0.292
1.023
0.340
0.730
0.265
0.684
0.300
Spring
Throttle Pressure Booster Valve:

Throttle Pressure limit Valve:
Throttle Pressure Modulator Valve:
line Pressure Coast Boost Valve:
Drive 2 Valve:
Int. Servo Accumulator Valve:
O,.,.Utl
Tranamission End Plly Check
Tllrust Wash Itt. 1

Nvlon
Ctl
Tllnst
If
Wulltl
Wasw
0.108.0.104
Black
0.091-0.087
Natural
0.074.0.070
Green
0.057-0.053
Red
0.121.0.125
Yellow
52-90
52-96
52-101
52-101
11
PEE-AC
PEE-AC
PEE -AC
PEF-C
CHICKS AND ADJUSTMINTS
PEE
PEF
Wire
length at lbs load
Dia.
(Inches) load
length
7.25
0.542
0.0258 1.45
0.620
0.023
0.95
0.480
0.0301 3.00
0.500
0.0286 1.35
0.553
0.0286 1.12
0.553
0.033
5.25
0.620
0.0379 6.25
0.770
0.0286 3.575
0.620
0.0332 4.10
0.494
0.0258 0.80
0.580
0.0258 1.50
0.390
Spring Color
Code
None
Gray
Dk. Green
None
Yellow
Purple
Dk. Green
Brown
Yellow
Dk. Blue
Violet
Lt. Green
SHIFT SPEEDS- ACTUAL M.P.H .

250 (1 -V) - 2.92 : 1 Rear Axle
Throttle
Range
Closed
(Above
18' '
Vacuum)
7-125
STALL SPEED LIMITS

Engine Model
Engine Speed (rpm)
Shift
M.P.H.
250-1V
1600-1800
D
D
D
1
1-2
2-3
3-1
21
8-11
12-22
6-9
26-36
250-2V
1650-1850
302-2V
1780-2000
351 -2V
1520-1720
To
Deten t
(Torque
Demand)
D
D
D
D
12
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
26-40
42-64
34-36
24-30
Thru
Det ent
W.O.T .
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
35-45
50-60
50-60
28-34
250 (2-V) - 2.92: 1 Rear Axle

Shift
M.P .H.
D
D
D
1
1-2
2-3
3-1
2-1
9-11
12-22
8-10
28-38
To
Detent
(Torque
Demand)
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
28-40
44-64
28-30
16-18
Thru
Detent
W.O.T .
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
36-46
52-68
50-64
28-32
Throttle
Range
Closed
(Above
18"
Vacuum)
302 V-8 - 2.92: 1 Rear Axle

Throttle
Range
Shift
M.P.H.
Closed
(Above
18"
Vacuum)
D
D
D
1
1-2
2-3
3-1
2-1
9-10
12-22
9-10
30-40
To
Detent
(Torque
Demand
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
27-39
46-63
28-30
14-16
Thru
Detent
W.O .T .
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
36-48
56-72
54-58
28-30
CLUTCH PLAnS
AtYirst Hi&h Clutch
Transmission
Modtl
PEE-AC
PEF-C
Converter size
Forward Clutch
Sttel
PlattS
Composition
Platts
Sttel
Platts
Composition
Platts
PEE-AC
PEF-C
TORQUE LIMITS
Description
Foot Pounds
Pressure Gauge Tap

. .. .
9-15
Conv. Hse. lower Cover to Trans.. . .
12-16
Downshift lever to Case . . .. . ... . . .
.12-16
Oil Pan to Case ..... . ....... .
12-16
Cooler Bracket & Oil Pan to Case ..
. .... 12-16
Int. Servo Cover to Case . .. .
. . . 16-22
Rev. Servo Cover to Case ... ...... . . . . .
. ... . .... 12-20
Support to Front Pump .......... . .
. ... . 12-20
Distributor Sleeve to Case .... . .... . . . .
. .12-20
Reverse Servo Piston to Rod .. .... .. ....... . .. . . ..
Outer Race to Case . . . . .
. ...... 13-20
Diaphragm Assy. to Case . . . . . .... ... .
. ... . 15-23
Converter Drain Plug . .
. .. 20-30
Flywheel to Converter . . . . .
. .20-30
. .28-40
Ext. Hsg. to Case .. .. . ..
.. .
. .28-40
Conv. Housing & Pump to Case .
.. .28-40
Front Oil Pump to Case ... ... . .
. .28-40
Converter Housing to Case .
Manual lever to Shaft . . .. .. . .
. . .30-40
Int. Band Adj. Stop to Case . . .
..... .. 35-45
Rev. Band Adj. Stop to Case .
. .35-45
Transmission to Engine:
351 V-8 (2-V) - 2.75:1 Rear Axle
Inch Pounds
Throttle
Range
Shift
M.P.H.
Closed
(Above
18"
Vacuum
D
D
D
1
1-2
2-3
3-1
2-1
9-11
13-23
9-11
32-42
To
Detent
(Torque
Demand)
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
29-41
49-67
38
32
Thru
Detent
W.O.T .
D
D
D
D
1-2
2-3
3-2
2-1 or 3-1
38-51
66-82
63
36-38
End Plate to Control Assy .. .............. .

....... . 20-35
40-50
Lower to Upper Valve Body .. . .
80-120
Accumulator Plate to Body
.40-55
Screen & lwr. to Upper Valve Body ... .
Neutral Switch to Case . . . . . ... . . . .
.. 55-75
Screen & Control Assy. to Case
. . .... . . . .
. .. 80-120
Control Assy. to Case ... ... .
... 80-120
Gov. Body to Distributor Body ..
80;120
.. . .. .. .. .
Cooler line Fittings . . .
" . . " ..
. ....... . 80-120
*Tighten to 10ft. lbs. and back off 5/a turn
7-126
FMX Transmission MODEL PH B- S -MODEL APPLICATION 351 C.I.D. 4V- 2V

CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO GOVERNOR RPMFMX TRANSMISSION
Engine Speed
Throttle
Idle
Closed
Control Line Pressure (PSI)
Manifold
Vac. Ins. Hg.
Range
As Required
As Required
As Required
56-82
59-111
D, 2, 1
69-126
D, 2, 1
133-189
184-221
P. N. D. 2, 1
Above 18 (i)
As Required
PHB-S
10
Below l
fD At altitudes above
sea level, it may not lie possible to obtain 18 inches of engine vacuum at idle. For idle vacuum of less than 18 inches,
refer to the following table to determine idle speed pressure specification in D driving range.
Engine Vacuum
Line Pressure
17 inches
16 inches
15 inches
14 inches
13 inches
12 inches
11 inches
57-67
57-67
57-72
57-79
57-86
57-92
57-99
LUBRICANT REFILL CAPACITY
STALL SPEED LIMITS
Capacity
(Imp) 91/4 QIS.
Type
M2C33F
FMX TRANSMISSION -WITH 351-4V ENGINE
1650-1850
AXLE RATIO 2.75:1
Throttle
Range
Shift
Closed
(Above
10-16
12-26
5-11
33-43
17"
0
D
D
Vacuum)
1-2
2-3
3-1
2-1
To Detent
(Torque
Demand)
0
0
0
12
23
3-2
36-54
58-80
27-43
Through
Detent
D
0
D
0
I2
2-3
3-2
3-1 or 2-1
49-58
75-89
62-79
33-44
(WOT)
Entine Splld (rpm)
Enaine Model
351 ClD-4V
CLUTCH PLATES
FMX TRANSMISSION
FORWARD CLUTCH
Steel
Plates
Friction
Plates
5Ci;
Selective Plate
Thicknesses
0.0565-0.0605
0.0705-0.0745
0.0845-0.0885
0.0985-0.1025
REAR CLUTCH
Selective Plate
Identification
No Stripe
One Stripe
Two Stripes
Three Stripes
Steel
Plates
Friction
Plates
Free Pack
Clearance
4(i)
0. 030-0.055
La sI plale (Fr1ct10n) m FMX forward clutch 1S s~:lect1ve . Install th1ckesl plate 111 pack that w1ll be a mmimum of 0.010 mch below 111put shaft shoulder
111 cylinder. All other fr1ct10n plat es m pack are thmnest available.
0 Plus one waved plate 1nslalled between two steel plates at p1ston end of pack.
(o)
7-127
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Opention
Transmission End Play Check
Turbine and Stator End Play Check
Front Band Adjustment (Use 1/4 inch spacer
between adjustment screw and servo piston stem)
Rear Band Adjustment
Specific:ltio n
0.010-0.029 (Selective Thrust Washers Available)
New or rebuilt 0.023 max., Used 0.040 max. 0
Adjust screw to 10 in-lbs torque. Remove spacer,
then tighten screw an additional 3/4 turn and lock .
Adjust screw to 10 in-lbs torque.
then back off exactly 1-1/2 turns and tighten lock nut.
Primary Sun Gear Shaft Ring End Gap Check
0.002-0.009
Rear Clutch Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses
0.060-0 064, 0.074-0.078, 0.088-0.092, 0.102-0.106
0 To check end play, exert force on checking tool to compress turbine to cover thrust washer wear plate. Set indicator at zero.
SELECTIVE THRUST WASHERS

Identification No.
By Thickness
Thrust Washer Thickness -Inch
Thrust Washer Thickness -Inch
Identification No.
By Thickness
0 . 061~ . 063
0.074~ . 076
0.081~.083
0 . 067~ . 069
CONTROL VALVE SPRING ICENT!FICATION
Sprin&
1-2 Shift Accumulator Valve
1st-2nd Shift Control Valve:
Throttle Press. Booster
Valve:
2-1 Scheduling Valve:
Low Inhibitor Valve:
Control Oil Press. Comp.
Valve -Outer :
Control Oil Press . Comp.
Val ve -l nner :
Downshift Valve
Control Check Valve
3rd-2nd Downshift Control Valve
Transition Valve :
2nd-3rd Shift Valve-lnner
2nd-3rd Shift Valve-Outer
Low Servo Modulator Valve
Total
Coils
8.5
Free
Len&th
(Inches)
U70
Sprin&
Dia. O.D.
(Inches)
0.470
Wire
Dia.
(Inches)
0.035
Le111th at Lbs. Load

Load
Ltn&lh
2.900
0.445
1.880
0.725
0.044
4.600
0.560
White
15.5
1.660
0.470
0.047
5.250
0.890
Green
11
0.880
0.265
0.026
2.400
0.415
Pink
17
1.270
0.230
0.025
1.900
0.890
Yellow
1.09
0.5091.0.
0.034
1.520
0.500
Purple
10
1.00
0.034
2.720
0.520
None
13.5
12
14.5
7
21
4
29.5
1.107
0.480
0.820
1.320
1.340
0.023
0.014
0.018
0.035
0.028
0.041
0.028
1.400
0.100
0.605
2.750
1.500
2.950
2.975
0.640
0.280
0.520
0.460
0.670
0.430
1.050
None
None
Purple
1.008
1.800
0.250
0.214
0.200
0.470 I. D.
0.295
0.692 I. D.
0.235
Spr in& Col or

Code
Yellow
Orange
Green
White
None
7-128
TORQUE liMITS
Item
Item
Ft-Lbs
Ft-Lbs
Converter to Flywheel
23-28
Extension Assy. to Trans. Case
Converter Hsg. to Trans. Case
40-50
Pressure Gauge Tap
7-15
Front Pump to Trans. Case
17-22
Band Adj. Screw Locknut to Case
Fron! Servo to Trans. Case
30-35
Yoke to Output Shaft
Rear Servo to Trans. Case
40-45
Reverse Servo Piston to Rod
4-6
Cooler Tube Connector Lock
Upper Valv~ Body to lower Valve Body

Overrunning Clutch Race to Case
Oil Pan to Case
Rear Servo Cover to Case
Stator Support to Pump
30-40
Converter Drain Plug
15-28
10-13
Rear Band Adjusting Screw to Case
35-40
Front Band Adjusting Screw Locknut
20-25
Manual Valve Inner Lever to Shaft
8-12
Downshift Lever to Shaft
17-20
Guide Plate to Case
Filler Tube to Engine
20-25
Intermedia te Servo Cover to Case
Filler Tube to Pan
Converter Cover to Converter Hsg.
12-16
Regulafor to Case
17-22
Transmission to Engine
Planetary Support to Trans. Case
20-25
Control Valve Body to Trans. Case
8-10
Transmission to Engine : Falcon

Mustang-6-Cyl.
Diaphragm Assy. to Case
20-30
Cooler Return Check Valve
9-12
Distributor Sleeve to Case
Governor to Counterweight
50-60
Governor Valve Body Cover Screws

Pressure Regulator Cover Screws
20-30
20-30
Control Valve Body Screws (10-24)
20-30
Front Servo Release Pts ton
20-30
End Plates to Body
20-30
Stator Support to Pump
23-35
Inner Downshtft Lever Stop
40-50
Lower to Upper Valve Body
Reinforcement Plate to Body

Screeo1 and Lower to Upper Valve Body
Neutral Switch to Casec:D
Neutral Switch to Column
20
Accumulator Plate to Body
Lower Valve Body Cover and Plate to

Valve Body
48-72
Control Assy. to Case
96-120
Gov. Body to Collector Body
Cooler Line Fttlings
ENGINE
GROUP
8
PAGE
PART 8-1 -General Engine Service
8-2
PART 8-2-200, 250 C. I. D. Six Cylinder Engines
8-22
PART 8-3-302 C.I.D.-351 C.I.D. Engines
8-44
PART 8-4- Specifications
8-67
8-2
PART
81
GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
Pace
8-2
Diagnosis and Testing
8-3
Diagnosis Guide ....
8- 8
Cam shaft Lobe Lift
8-8
Compression Test ....
8-9
Manifold Vacuum Test
8-9
Hydraulic Valve Lifte, Tests
Positive Crankcase Ventilation System Test 8-10
B-10
Crankshaft End Play
Flywheel Runout-Automatic Transmission 8-11
8-11
Flywheel Ring Gear Runout
8-11
Camshaft End Play
8-11
Timing Chain Deflection . .. .
8-11
2 Common Adjustments and Repairs
Valve Clearance-Hydraulic Valve Lifters,
8-11
Six cylinder engines
Valve Clearance-Hydraulic Valve Lifters
8-12
V -8 engines ..
Valve Rocker Arm and / or Shaft Assembly 8-12
8-13
Push Rods
8-13
Valves
8-13
Camshaft
8- 14
Crankshaft
8- 14
Pistons, Pins and Rings
Section
Section
Cylinder Block
Flywheel Ring Gear-Manual Shift
Transmission
Cleaning and Inspection
Intake Manifold ... .
Exhaust Manifold . .. .
Valve Rocker Arm and/or Shaft Assembly
Push Rods ....
Cylinder Heads
Hydraulic Valve Lift~rs
Timing Chain and Sprockets
Camshaft
Crankshaft Vib1ation Damper and Sleeve
Crankshaft
Flywheel-Manual Shift Transmission
Flywheel-Automatic Transmission
Connecting Rods ... .
Pistons, Pins and Rings ....
Main and Connecting Rod Bearings
Cylinder Block
Oil Pan
Oil Pump
Positive Crankcase Ventilation System
Pa1
8-15
8-15
8-15
8-15
8-1 5
8- 5
8-15
816
8- 17
8-17
8-17
8-17
8-17
8-.8
8-18
8-18
8-18
8-1 8
8-1 9
8-19
8-19
8-20
MODEL YEAR
CHANGE LEVEL
On 351 CID 4V engines only.
This part covers engine diagnosis,

tests and adjustment and repair procedures. In addition, the cleaning and
ir>spection procedure'> are covered.
For engine removal, disassembly,
assembly, installation and major repair procedures, refer to the pertinent part of this group.
ENGINE
MONTH OF ENGINE
PRODUCTION
An identification tag is attached to

the engine. The symbol code (Fig. 1)
identifies this engine for determining
parts usage; i.e., engine cubic inch
displacement and model year. The
change level and engine code number
determine if parts are peculiar to a
specific engine.
FIG. 1.-Engine Identification Tag

351 CID 4V only- Typical
Engine performance complaints

usually fall under one of the basic
headings listed in the Diagnosis
Guide. When a particular trouble
can not be traced to a definite cause
by a simple check, the possible items
that could be at fault are listed in the

order of their probable occurrence.
Check the items in the order listed.
For example, under Poor Acceleration, the ignition system is listed as
a probable cause of the trouble. All
the conventional ignition system items

that affect acceleration are listed.
Ch~k all these items before proceeding to the next probable cause.
For diaposls proceclures of ~pi
don system malfancdons, refer to
Group 9.
PART 8-1- GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
8-3
DIAGNOSIS GUIDI
ENGINE WILL
NOT CRANK
ENGINE CRANKS
NORMALLY, IUT WILL
NOT START
The cause of this trouble is usually

in the starting system (Group 14).
If the starting system is not at
fault, check for a hydrostatic lock
or a seized engine as follows:
Remove the spark plugs; then
attempt to crank the engine with the
Check the fuel supply. If there is
sufficient fuel in the tank and the
proper starting procedure is used, the
cause of the trouble probably lies in
either the ignition or the fuel system.
To determine which system is at
fault~ perform the following test:
Dtsconnect a spark plug wire.
Check the spark intensity at the end
of the wire by installing a terminal
adapter in the end of the wire. Then
~old the adapter approximately
mch from the exhaust manifold and
crank ~he engine.
IF THERE IS NO SPARK
OR A WEAK SPARK
AT THE SPARK PLUGS
The cause of the trouble is in the
ignition system.
Disconnect the brown lead (I
terminal) and the red and blue
lead (s terminal) at the starter
relay. Install an auxiliary starter
switch between the battery and s
terminals of the starter relay.
To determine if the cause of the
trouble is in the primary or the
secondary circuit, remove the coil
h~gh .tension lead from the top of the
dtstnbutor, and hold it approximately 3 / 16 inch from the cylinder
head. With the ignition on, crank
the engine and check for a spark.
If the spark at the coil high tension
lead is good, the cause of the trouble
is probably in the distributor cap,
rotor or spark plug wires.
If there is no spark or a weak
spark at the coil high tension lead,
~he cause _
of the trouble is probably
m the pnmary circuit, coil to distributor high tension lead, or the coil.
IF THERE IS
A GOOD SPARK AT
THE SPARK PLUGS
Check the spark plugs. If the spark

plugs are not at fault, check the
following items:
MANUAL CHOKE
Check the choke linkage for binding or damage. Make certain the
choke plate closes when the choke
knob on the instrument panel is
pulled out and that the plate opens
when the knob is pushed in.
~ta~ter. If the engine cranks, it

mdicat~s that water is leaking into
the cylmders. Remove the cylinder

head(s) and inspect the gasket(s)
and/ or head(s) for cracks. Examine
the cylinder block for cracks.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
Check the position of the choke

plate. If the engine is hot, the plate
should be open. If the plate is not
open, the engine will load up due to
the excessively rich mixture and will
not start. If the engine is cold, the
plate should .be closed. If the plate
1s not operatmg properly, check the
following items:
The choke plate and linkage for
binding.
The fast idle cam linkage for
binding.
. Thermostatic spring housing adJUStment.
FUEL SUPPLY AT THE
CARBURETTOR
Work the throttle by hand several

times. Each time the throttle is
actuated, fuel should spurt from the
accelerating pump discharge port
(6-cylinder) or nozzles (V-8).
If fuel is discharged by the accelerating pump, the engine is probably
flooded, or there is water in the fuel
system, or an engine mechanical item
is at fault.
If fuel is not discharged by the
accelerating pump, disconnect the
carburettor fuel inlet line at the
carburettor. Use a suitable container
to catch the fuel. Crank the engine
to see. if fuel is reaching the carburettor.
If fuel is not reaching the carburettor, check:
The fuel filter.
The fuel pump.
The carburettor fuel inlet line for
obstructions.
The fuel pump flexible inlet line
for a collapsed condition.
The fuel tank line for obstructions.
For fuel tank vent restriction.
If fuel is reaching the carburettor
check:
The fuel inlet system including the
fuel inlet needle and seat assembly
and the float assembly.
ENGINE
Mechanical failure in camshaft

drive.
8-4
GROUP 8- ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
ENGINE STARTS, BUT
FAILS TO KEEP RUNNING
ENGINE RUNS, BUT

MISSES
FUEL SYSTEM
Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not
vropE>rly adjusted.
Engine idle speed set too low.
The choke not operating properly.
Float setting' incorrect.
Fuel inlet system not operating
properly.
Dirt or water in the fuel lines or
in the fuel filter.
Carburettor icing.
Fuel pump defective.
Determine if the miss is steady Ol'
erratic and at what speed the miss
occurs by operating the engine at
various speeds under load.
MISSES STEADILY AT
ALL SPEEDS
Isolate the miss by operating the
engine with one cylinder not firing.
This is done by operating the engine with the ignition wire removed
from one spark plug at a time, until
.all cylinders have been checked.
Ground the spark plug wire removed.
If the engine speed changes when
.a particular cylinder is shorted out,
that cylinder was delivering power
before being sho1ted out. If no
~hange in the engine operation is
evident, the miss was caused by
that cylinder not delivering power
befo1e being shorted out. In this
case, check the:
IGNITION SYSTEM
If the miss is isolated in a particular cylinder, perform a spark
test on the ignition lead of that cylinder.
If a good spark does not occur,
the trouble is in the seconduy circuit of the system. Check the spark
plug wire and the distributor cap.
If a good spark occurs, check the
spark plug. If the spark plug is not
at fault, a mechanical component of
the engine is probably at fault.
ENGINE
Intake manifold gasket leak.
Perform a manifold vacuum or
compression
test
to determine
which mechanical component of the
engine is at fault.
MISSES ERRATICALLY
AT ALL SPEEDS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Exhaust system restricted.
IGNITION SYSTEM
Breaker points not properly adjusted.
Defective breaker points, condenser, secondary wiring, coil or spark
plugs.
Check for dirt in the carburettor

not allowing fuel to enter or be discharged from the idle system.
IGNITION SYSTEM
Defective spark plugs.
Leakage in the high tension wiring.
Open circuit in primary resistance wire.
Breaker points not properly ad
jus ted.
High Tension leakage across the
coil, rotor or distributor cap.
Defective ignition switch.
FUEL SYSTEM
Float setting incorrect.
properly.
Dirt or water in the fuel lines or
carburettor.
Restricted fuel filter.
Loose booster venturi (V-8).
COOLING SYSTEM
Check the cooling system for internal leakage and/ or for a condition that prevents the engine from
reaching normal operating temperature.
ENGINE
compression test to determine
engine is at fault.
MISSES AT IDLE ONLY

FUEL SYSTEM
properly adjusted.
Restriction in idle fuel system.
IGNITION SYSTf:M
Excessive play in the distributor
shaft.
Worn distributor cam.
Defective coil, rotor, condenser,
Breaker points, ignition wiring or
<>park plugs.
EN~INE
Valve clearance set too tight.

Worn tamshaft lobe(s) .
compression test to determine which
mechanical component of the engine
is at fault.
MISSES AT HIGH SPEED

ONLY
FUEL SYSTEM
Power valve or passages clogged
or damaged.
Low or erratic fu el pump pressure.
properly.
PART 8-1- GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
8-5
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)

ENGINE RUNS, BUT
MISSES (Continued)

Restricted main fuel system.
Positive crankcase
ventilation
system restricted or not operating
properly.
IGNITION SYSTEM
Defective spark plugs.
COOLING SYSTEM
Engine overheating.
ENGINE
Perfol'm a man ifold vacuum or
compression
test to determine
engine is at fault.
ROUGH ENGINE IDLE
FUEL SYSTEM
IGNITION SYSTEM
Engine idle speed set too low.

properly adjusted.
Float setting incorrect.
Improperly adjusted or defective

breaker points.
Fouled or improperly adjusted
spark plugs.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Spark plug misfiring.
Air leaks between the carburettor, spacer and the manifold and/or
fittings.
Intake manifold
gasket leak
(V-8).
Fuel leakage at the carburettor
fuel bowl.
Power valve leaking fuel (V-8).
Idle fuel system air bleeds or
fuel passages restricted.
Fuel bleeding from the accelerating pump discharge nozzles.
Leaking fuel pump, lines or fittings.
POOR ACCELERATION
IGNITION SYSTEM
Incorrect ignition timing.
Fouled or improperly adjusted
spark plugs.
Improperly adjusted or defective
breaker points.
Distributor not advancing properly.
ENGINE
Loose engine mounting bolts or
worn engine support insulator.
Cylinder head bolts not properly
torqued.
Valve clearance set too tight.
Crankcase ventilation regulator
valve defective or a restricted vent
tube.
Worn camshaft lobes.
which mechanical component is at
fault.
Dirt or corrosion in accelerating
system.

Defective fuel pump.
BRAKES
Improper adjustment-too tight.
TRANSMISSIONS
FUEL SYSTEM
ENGINE DOES NOT

DEVELOP FULL POWER,
OR HAS POOR HIGH
SPEED PERFORMANCE
Clutch slippage (manual shift

transmissions.
Improper band adjustment (automatic transmissions) .
Converter One-Way Clutch (automatic transmissions).
Accelerating pump malfunction.

Jo'loat setting incorre.:t.
Throttle linkage not properly adjusted.
Accelerating pump stroke not
properly adjusted.
Leaky power valve, gaskets or
accelerating pump diaphragm.
Power valve piston stuck in the
up position (6-cylinder and 302 V8).

engine is at fault.
FUEL SYSTEM
IGNITION SYSTEM
Restricted air cleaner.

Clogged or undersize main or secondary jets or low float sett'ing.
Ignition timing not properly adjusted.

Defective coil, condenser or rotor.
Distributor not advancing properly.
Excessive play in the distributor
shaft.
Distributor cam worn.
Foule.d or improperly adjusted
spark plugs, or spark plugs of incorrect heat range.
Impl'operly adjust ed or defective
breaker points.
Power valve or passages clogged

or damaged.
Fvel pump pressure incorrect.
Power valve piston stuck In the

up position (6-cylinder and 302 V8).
Automatic.' choke malfunctioning
or improperly adjusted.
ENGINE
8-6
GROUP 8-
ENGINE
DI~GNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP

FULL POWER, OR HAS POOR
HIGH SPEED PERFORMANCE
(Continued)
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Restriction in system.
COOLING SYSTEM
Thermostat inoperative or of incorrect heat range.
Thermostat installed incorrectly.
Check the cooling system for internal leakage and/ or for a condition that prevents the engine from
reaching normal operating temperature.
EXCESSIVE FUEL
CONSUMPTION
ENGINE OVERHEATS
ENGINE
engine compression test to determine which mechanical component
of the engine is at fault.
One or more camshaft lobes worn
beyond wear limit.
Worn valve guides.
Positive crankcase ventilation system not operating properly.
TRANSMISSION
Improper band adjustment (automatic transmissions).
Determine the actual fuel con

sumption with test equipment installed in the car.
If the test indicates that the fuel
consumption is not excessive, demonstrate to the owner how improper
driving habits will affect fuel consumption.
If the test indicates that the fuel
consumption is excessive, make a
preliminary check of the following
items before proceeding to the fuel
and ignition systems.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
CHASSIS ITEMS
Check:
Tyres for proper pressure.
Front wheel alignment.
Brake adjustment.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
System restricted.
ODOMETER
Check calibration.
IGNITION SYSTEM
Check:
Distributor breaker points.
Ig-nition timing.
EN<:INE
Crankt-ase ventilation regulator
valvt defedive or restrided tubes
(Positive Crankcase Ventilation Sy,;tcm).
FINAL CHECKS
FUEL SYSTEM
Che<k:
Fuel pump prt'ssure.
E11;.rine idlt speed.
Idle fuel mixture needlt'(s) for
prc:>per adjustment.
Automatic choke for proper operation.

Fast idle speed screw for proper
adjustment.
Accelerating pump stroke adjustment.
TEMPERATURE SENDING
UNIT AND GAUGE
Unit or c:auge defective (not indi<ating correct temperatures) ot
constant volta).!.'t' regulator defec.
tive.
ENGINE
Cylinder head bolts not properly
tmqued.
Incorrect valve clearance.
Low oil level or imonect viscosity oil used .
COOLING SYSTEM
Insufficient coolant.
Coolin)! system leaks.

Orin helt tension incorrect.
Radiator fins obstructed.
Thennostat defective.
Thermostat improperly installed.
Cooling systl'm passages blocked.
Water pump inoperative.
IGNITION SYSTEM
lntot..-ect ignition timing.
I nco. rect distributor advance.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Restl'ictions in system.
BRAKES
ImpropE-r adjustment-too tight.
Air cleaner for restrictions.

J:.,loat setting or fuel level.
Jets for wear and/or damage.
Power valve operation.
Air bleeds for obstructions.
Accelerating
pump
discharge
nozzles for siphoning.
Accelerator linkage for binds.
Choke adjustment.
IGNITION SYSTEM
Check :
Ignition timing.
Spark plug condition and adjustment.
Distributor spark advance operation.
ENGINE
Pel'form a manifold vacuum or
engine compression test to detel'
mine which methanical component
of the engine is at fault.
Check valve clearance .
COOLIN(; SYSTEM
Check thermostat operation and
heat range.
TRANSMISSION
Cht'ck han<l adjustment (automali<- transmissions) .
PART 8-1-
8-7
GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
LOSS Of COOLANT
COOLING SYSTEM
Leaking radiator or water pump.
Loose or damaged hose connections.
Radiator cap defective.
Overheating.
ENGINE
Cylinder head gasket defective.
ENGINE FAILS TO REACH

NORMAL OPIRAnNG
TEMPERATURE
NOISY HYDRAULIC
VALVE LlmR
TEMPERATURE SENDING
UNIT AND GAUGE
Unit or gauge defective (not indicating correct temperature) or constant voltage regulator defective.
A noisy hydraulic valve lifter can

be located by operating the engine at
idle speed and placing a finger on
the face of the valve spring retainer.
If the lifter is not functioning properly, a shock will be felt when the
valve seats.
Another method of identifying a
noisy lifter is by the use of a piece
of hose. With the engine operating
at idle speed, place one end of the
hose near the end of the valve stem
and the other end to the ear and
listen for a metallic noise. Repeat
this procedure on each intake and
exhaust valve until the noisy lifter(s)
has been located.
The most common causes of hydraulic valve lifter troubles are dirt,
gum, varnish, carbon deposits and
air bubbles.
Dirt in the lifter assembly can
prevent the disc valve from seating,
or it may become lodged between
the plunger and body surfaces. In
either case, the lifter becomes inoperative due to failure to "pump-up,"
or because the internal parts are no
longer free to function properly.
When dirt is found to be responsible for lifter malfunction, remove
the lifter assembly and thoroughly
clean it. Recommended engine oil
and filter change intervals should be
followed to minimize lifter problems caused by dirt (Group 19).
Deposits of gum and varnish
cause similar conditions to exist
which may result in lifter malfunction. If these conditions are found
to be presept, the lifter should be
disassembled and cleaned in solvent
to remove all traces of deposits.
Air bubbles in the lubricating oil,
Intake manifold to cylinder head

gasket defective (V-8).
Cylinder head or intake manifold
bolts (V -8) not properly torqued.
Cylinder block core plugs leaking.
Temperature sending unit leaking.
Cracked cylinder head or block,
or warped cylinder head or block
gasket surface.
COOLING SYSTEM
Thermostat inoperative or of incorrect heat range.
caused by an excessively high or low

oil level, may likewise cause lifter
malfunction. A damaged oil pick-up
tube may allow air to be drawn into
the lubricating system.
Check for engine oil aeration as
follows:
Check the engine oil level to be
sure it is within specification and
correct as required. Be sure the ~or
red engine oU dlpsti~k Is beiDg used.
Operate the engine at approximately 1200 rpm until normal operating temperature is reached. Stop
the engine and remove the oil pressure sending unit. Install a fitting in
this opening with a petcock-type
valve that will permit attachment of
a 1,4 to s -inch-diameter hose of
sufficient length to direct the oil discharge into the oil filler pipe. Close
the valve.
Start the engine and operate it at
approximately 500 rpm for a minimum of S minutes; then, open the
valve slightly to permit a steady discharge of oil. Check the oil flow
for air bubbles.
Increase the engine speed to approximately 1000 rpm and check for
air bubbles in the oil. To fa~Uitate
~he~ldng for air bubbles, direct tbe
oil flow over white paper or throop
a pie~e of transparent tube. Tbe engine should not be opented at ex~esslve speeds or for extended periods with the oU bleed atta~bed.
If oil aeration is evident, remove
the oil pan for further test and/ or
inspection of the oil pump intake
system. Perform corrective action as
required to remove air from the lubricating oil.
8-8
TESnNG
CAMSHAFT LOBE UFT
Check the lift of each lobe in
consecutive order and make a note
of the readings.
1. Remove the air cleaner and
the valve rocker arm cover(s).
2. On a six-cylinder engine, remove the valve rocker arm shaft
assembly.
On a V -8 engine, remove the
rocker arm stud, or stud nut, fulcrum
seat and rocker arm. Use the adapter
for ball-end push rods (Fig. 3).
3. Make sure the push rod is in
the valve lifter socket. Install a dial
indicator in such a manner as to
have the ball socket adapter of the
indicator on the end of the push
rod and in the same plane as the
push rod movement (Fig. 2 or 3).
On a socket-type push rod, position the actuating point of the indi
cator in the push rod socket and in
the same plane as the push rod
movement (Fig. 2).
4. Disconnect the brown/red lead
(I terminal) and the red and blue
lead (S terminal) at the starter
relay. Install an auxiliary starter
switch between the battery and S
terminals of the starter relay. Crank
the engine with the Ignition switch
OFF.
"Bump" the crankshaft over until
the tappet or lifter is on the base
circle of the camshaft lobe. At this
point, the push rod will be In its
lowest position,
GROUP 8-ENGINE
5. Zero the dial indicator. Continue to rotate the crankshaft slowly
until the push rod is in the fully
raised position.
6. Compare the total lift recorded on the indicator with specifications.
7. To check the accuracy of the
original indicator reading, continue
to rotate the crankshaft until the
indicator reads zero. H the Uft on
any lobe is below specified wear
Umits, the camshaft and the valve
Ufters operating on the worn lobe(s)
must be replaced.
NOTE
Comparing the size of one camshaft lobe to another, with a micrometer or other measuring instrument,
is not a satisfactory method of checking camshaft lobe lift, owing to
tolerances on base circle radii.
8. On a six-cylinder engine, install
the rocker arm shaft assemblies.
On a V -8 engine, install the rocker
arm, fulcrum seat and stud.
Adjust the valve clearance (Page
8-11 )
9. Install the valve rocker arm
cover(s) and the air cleaner.
COMPRESSION TEST
Dynamic Compression Test. To
perform a dynamic compression
check, follow the procedures in
Part 9-1, Section 1 under Ignition
System TestsCompression Gauge Check
1. Be sure the crankcase oil is at the
proper level. DISCONNECT ALTERNATOR. Connect a high speed
battery charger to battery to ensure
cranking speed does not vary between cylinders. Operate the engine
for a minimum of 30 minutes at
OF PUSH ROO
SOCKET
FIG. 2-Camshaft lobe liftSix Cylinder Engines
FIG. 3-Camshaft lobe ltftV-8 Engines -Typical
1,200 r.p.m. or until the engine is

at normal operating temperature.
Remove the spark plugs.
(I terminal) and the red and blue lead
(S terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of
the starter relay. Check valve clearances as indicated in Group 8, Section 2, using the auxiliary starter
switch to turn engine. Crank the
engine with the ignition switch
off.
3. Set the throttle plates and

choke plate in the wide open position.
4. Install a compression gauge in
No. 1 cylinder.
5. Using the auxiliary starter

switch, crank the engine a minimum
of five pumping strokes, and record
the highest gauge reading.
Note the number of compression
strokes required to obtain the highest reading.
6. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine the same
number of times for each cylinder
as was required to obtain the highest
reading on the No. 1 cylinder.
Test Conclusions. The test pressures should fall within the band
specified and the compression of all
cylinders should be uniform within
20 psi.
If one or more cylinders exhibit
compression figures lower than that
specified, re-run the engine at 1200
rpm for 5 minutes. Recheck the low
reading cylinders to confirm the
original results.
A reading of more than the allowable tolerance above normal indicates excessive deposits in the cylinder or wrong cylinder head(s) on
the engine.
A reading of more than the allowable tolerance below normal indicates leakage at the cylinder head
gasket, piston rings or valves or
wrong cylinder head(s) on the engine.
A low, even compression in two
adjacent cylinders indicates a cylinder head gasket leak. This should be
checked before condemning the
rings or valves.
During a compression test, if the
pressure fails to climb steadily and
remains the same during .the first
two successive strokes, but climbs
higher on the succeeding strokes, or
fails to climb during the entire test,
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE

it indicates a sticking valve.
MANIFOLD VACUUM TEST
A manifold vacuum test aids in
determining the condition of an engine and in helping to locate the
cause of poor engine performance.
To check manifold vacuum :
1. Operate the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes at 1200 rpm
or until the engine is at normal
operating temperature.
2. On 6-cylinder engines, install
an accurate, sensitive vacuum gauge
in the intake manifold fitting.
On a V -8 engine, remove the plug
or power brake line at the rear of
the intake manifold and install an
accurate, sensitive vacuum gauge.
3. Operate the engine at recommended idle rpm, with the transmission selector lever in neutral.
4. Check the vacuum reading on
the gauge.
Test Conclusions. Manifold vacuum is affected by carburetor adjustment, valve timing, ignition timing,
the condition of the valves, cylinder
compression, the condition of the
positive crankcase ventilation system, and leakage of the intake manifold, carburetor, carburetor spacer
or cylinder head gaskets and a
restricted exhaust system.
Because abnormal gauge readings
may indicate that more than one of
the above factors are at fault, exercise caution in analyzing an abnormal reading. For example, if the
vacuum is low, the correction of one
item may increase the vacuum
enough so as to indicate that the
trouble has been corrected. It is important, therefore, that each cause
of an abnormal reading be investigated and further tests conducted,
where necessary, in order to arrive
at the correct diagnosis of the
trouble.
Table l lists various types of readings and their possible causes.
Allowance should be made for the
effect of altitude on the gauge reading. The engine vacuum will decrease with an increase in altitude.
HYDRAULIC VALVE
LIFTER TESTS
Dirt, deposits of gum and varnish
and air bubbles in the lubricating oil
can cause hydraulic valve lifter failure or malfunction.
Dirt, gum and varnish can keep
a check valve from seating and
cause a loss of hydraulic pressure.
An open valve disc will cause the
plunger to force oil back into the
8-9
TABLE 1-Manifold Vacuum Gauge Readings

Gauge Reading
Engine Condition
18 inches or over-All engines.

Except where otherwise
specified.
Normal.
Low and steady.
Loss of power in all cylinders possibly

caused by late ignition or valve timing, or
loss of compression due to leakage around
the piston rings.
Very low.
Intake manifold, carburettor spacer or cylinder head gasket leak.
Needle fluctuates steadily as

speed increases.
A partial or complete loss of power in one

or more cylinders caused by a leaking valve,
cylinder head or intake manifold gasket,
a defect in the ignition system, or a weak
valve spring.
Gradual drop in reading at

engine idle.
Excessive back pressure in the exhaust

system.
Intermittent fluctuation.
An occasional loss of power possibly

caused by a defect in the ignition system
or a sticking valve.
Slow fluctuation or drifting

of the needle.
Improper idle mixture adjustment or carburetor, spacer or intake manifold gasket

leak or restricted crankcase ventilation
system.
valve lifter reservoir during the time

the push rod is being lifted to force
the valve from its seat.
Air bubbles in the lubricating system can be caused by too much oil
in the system or too low an oil level.
Air may also be drawn into the
lubricating system through an opening in a damaged oil pick-up tube.
Air in the hydraulic system can
cause a loss of hydraulic pressure in
the valve lifter.
Assembled valve lifters can be
tested with tool 6500-E to check the
leak down rate. The leak down rate
specification (Page 868) is the time
in seconds for the plunger to move
the length (Page 8-68) of its travel
while under a 50 lb. load. Test the
valve lifters as follows:
1. Disassemble and clean the lifter to remove all traces of engine
oil. Lifters cannot be checked with
engine oil in them. Only the testing fluid can be used.
2. Place the valve lifter in the
tester, with the plunger facing upward. Pour hydraulic tester fluid
into the cup to a level that will
cover the valve lifter assembly. The
ftuid can be purchased from the
manufacturer of the tester. Do not
use kerosene, for it wiU not provide
an accurate test.
FIG. 4-Piacing SJeel Ball in

Valve Liftttr Plunger
FIG. 5-Adjusting the Ram

Length
8-10
3. Place a 5116-inch steel ball
in the plunger cup (Fig. 4).
4. Adjust the length of the ram
so that the pointer is l/16-inch
below the starting mark when the
ram contacts the valve lifter plunger (Fig. 5) to facilitate timing as
the pointer passes the Start Timing
Mark.
Use the center mark on the pointer scale as the Stop Timing point
instead of the original Stop Timing
mark at the top of the scale.
5. Work the valve lifter plunger
up and down until the lifter fills
with fluid and all traces of air bubbles have disappeared.
6. Allow the ram and weight to
force the valve lifter plunger downward. Measure the exact time it
takes for the. pointer to travel from
the Start Timing to the Stop Timing marks of the tester.
7. A valve lifter that is satisfactory must have a leak-down rate
(time in seconds) within the minimum and maximum limits specified.
8. If the valve lifter is not within
specifications, replace it with a new
lifter. Always test a new lifter before installing It in the engine. It is
not necessary to disassemble and
clean new valve lifters before testing, because the oil contained in
new lifters is test fluid.
9. Remove the fluid from the cup
and bleed the fluid from the lifter
by depressing the plunger up and
down. This step will aid in depressing the lifter plungen when
checking the valve clearance.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE
VENTILATION SYSTEM TEST
A malfunctioning positive crank-
FIG. 6- Crankcase Ventilation

System Tester -Typical
GROUP 8- ENGINE
case ventilation system may be indicated by loping or rough engine
idle. Do not attempt to compensate
for this poor idle condition by disconnecting the crankcase ventilation
system and/or making carburettor
adjustments. The removal of the
crankcase ventilation system from
the engine will adversely affect the
fuel economy and engine ventilation
with resultant shortening of engine
life.
To determine whether the loping
or rough idle condition is caused
by a malfunctioning crankcase ventilation system, perform either of
the following tests.
-Regulator Valve Test.
Install a known good regulator
valve in the crankcase ventilation system.
Start the engine and compare the
engine idle condition to the prior idle
condition.
If the idle condition is found to be
satisfactory, replace the regulator
valve and clean the hoses, fittings. etc.
If the loping or rough idle condition remains when the good regulator
valve is installed, the crankcase ventilation regulator valve is not at fault.
Check the crankcase ventilation system for restriction at the intake manifold or carburetor spacer. If the system is not restricted, further engine
component diagnosis will have to be
conducted to find the malfunction.
Air Intake Test.
I. With the engine at normal operating temperature, remove the oil filler cap .
2. Hold the tester C8AZ-6B627-A
over the opening in the valve cover.
Make sure that the surface is flat to
form a seal between the cover and
tester. If the cover is distorted, shape
it as required to make an air tight
seal. An air leak between the cover
and tester will render the tester inoperative.
3. Start the engine and allow it to
operate at the recommended idle
speed.
4. Hold the tester over the oi I filler
cap opening making sure that there is
a positive seal between the tester and
cover.
5. If the ball settles in the Good
(green) area, the system is functioning
properly. If the ball settles in the Repair (red) area, clean or replace the
malfunctioning components as re.
quired.
6. Repeat the test after repairs are
made to make sure that the crankcase
ventilation system is operating satisfactorily.
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY

1. Force the crankshaft toward
the rear of the engine.
2. Install a dial indicator so that
the contact point rests against the
crankshaft flange and the indicator
axis is parallel to the crankshaft axis
(Fig. 7).
3. Zero the dial indicator. Push
the crankshaft forward and note the
reading on the dial.
4. If the end play exceeds the
wear limit, replace the thrust bearing. If the end play is less than
the minimum limit, inspect the
thrust bearing faces for scratches,
burrs, nicks or dirt. If the thrust
faces are not defective or dirty, they
probably were not aligned properly.
Install the thrust bearing and align
the faces following the procedure
recommended under Main Bearing
Replacement in the pertinent engine section. Check the crankshaft
end play.
FLYWHEEL FACE RUNOUTMANUAL-SHIFT
TRANSMISSIONS
Install a dial indicator so that the
indicator point bears against the flywheel face (Fig. 8). Turn the flywheel making sure that it is full forward or rearward so that crankshaft
end play will not be indicated as tlywheel runout.
If the clutch face runout exceeds
the specifications, remove the flywheel and check for burrs between
the flywheel and the face of the
crankshaft mounting flange. If no
burn exist, check the runout of the
FIG. 7 -Typical Crankshaft End

Play
8-11
FIG. 8-Typical Flywheel Face

Runout
crankshaft mounting flange. Replace
the flywheel or machine the crankshaft flywheel mounting face if the
mounting flange runout is excessive.
If the ring gear runout exceeds
specifications, replace it or reinstall
it on the flywheel, following the
procedure under Ring Gear Replacement (Page 8-15 ) .
FLYWHEEL RUNOUTAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Remove the spark plugs.
Install a dial indicator so that the
indicator point rests on the face of
the ring gear adjacent to the gear
teeth.
Push the flywheel and crankshaft
forward or backward as far as possible to prevent crankshaft end
play from being indicated as flywheel runout.
Set the indicator dial on the
zero mark. Tum the flywheel one
complete revolution while observing
the total indicator reading (f.I.R.).
If the T.I.R. exceeds specifications,
the flywheel and ring gear assembly
must be replaced.
FLYWHEEL RING GEAR
RUNOUT
Install the dial indicator so that
the point rests on a tooth of the
ring gear (Fig. 9), and check the
outside diameter (0.0.) of the
assembled flywheel and ring gear.
For this cheek, carefully adjust the
Indicator on the gear tooth so that
the Indicator point is near the es:treme Umit of its traveL 1bis wiD
EJ
FIG. 1 0-Typical Camshaft End

Play
FIG. 9 -Typical Flywheel Ring
Ge Runout
prevent the indicator point from
catching between the gear teeth as
the flywheel is turned. Set the indicator dial on the zero mark and
slowly turn the flywheel through one
revolution while observing the total
indicator reading. The T.I.R. must
be within specifications, or the ring
gear (standard transmission) or flywheel and ring gear assembly (automatic transmission) must be replaced.
CAMSHAFT END PLAY
Push the camshaft toward the rear
of the engine. Install a dial indicator
so that the indicator point is on the
camshaft sprocket retaining screw
(Fig. 10). Zero the dial indicator.
Position a large screw driver between
the camshaft sprocket and the block.
Pull the camshaft forward and release it. Compare the dial indicator
reading with specifications. If the
end play is excessive, replace the
thrust plate. Remove the dial indicator.
TIMING CHAIN DEFLECTION
1. Rotate the crankshaft in a
clockwise direction (as viewed from
the front) to take up the slack on
the left side of the chain.
l. Establish a reference point on
the block and measure from this
point to the chain (Fig. 11 ).
3. Rotate the crankshaft in the
TAKE UP SLACK ON LEFT SIDE, ESTABLISH

REFERENCE POINT. MEASURE DISTANCE A.
TAKE UP SLACK ON RIGHT SIDE. FORCE
LEFT SIDE OUT. MEASURE DISTANCE I.
DEFLECTION IS A MINUS I.
A
.(
1284
FIG. 11-Typical Timing Chain

Defledion
opposite direction to take up the
slack on the right side of the chain.
Force the left side of the chain out
with the fingers and measure the distance between the reference point and
the chain. The deflection is the difference between the two measurements.
If the deflection exceeds specifications, replace the timing chain and
sprockets.
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE CLEARANCEHYDRAUUC VALVE LIFTERS,

Six-Cylinder Engines
These engines are equipped with
adjusting screws to adjust the valve

clearance. This is accomplished by
loosening the rocker arm adjusting
screw until there is end clearance in
the push rod, rotate the push rod
and tighten the adjusting screw to
eliminate all push rod clearance,

tighten the adjusting screw a further
! of one tum.
An alternative method may be
used for collapsing the lifters.
8-12
(5 terminal) at the starter relay.
Install an auxiliary starter switch
between the battery and S terminals
of the starter relay. Crank the engine
with the ignition switch off until
the No. 1 piston is on T.D.C. after
the compression stroke.
By using procedure in Step 3,
check the following valves:
No. 1 intake.
No. 3 exhaust.
No. 1 exhaust.
No. 4 intake.
No. 2 intake.
No. 5 exhaust.
2. Now rotate the crankshaft until
the No. 6 piston is on T.D.C. after
the compression stroke (1 revolution
of the crankshaft). By using the
procedure in step 3, check the
following valves:
No. 2 exhaust.
No. 5 intake.
No. 3 intake.
No. 6 intake.
No. 4 exhaust.
No. 6 exhaust.
3. Using tool 6513AG, apply
pressure on the push rod end of the
rocker arm (Fig. 12) to slowly bleed
down the valve lifter until the plunger
is completely bottomed. Hold the
lifter in this position and check the
available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with
a feeler gauge.
If clearance is not within specifications, tum the adjusting screw clockwise to decrease or counter-clockwise to increase, the clearance.
Normally, one turn of the adjusting
screw will alter the clearancr by
0.075 inch at the valve stem tip.
VALVE CLEARANCEHYDRAUUC VALVE LIFTERS,

V-8 Engines
The cylinders are numbered from
front to rear-right bank, 1-2-3-4;
left bank, 5-6-7-8.
The valve arrangement on the left
bank is E-1-E-1-E-1-E-1 and on the
right bank is 1-E-1-E-1-E-1-E.
A 0.060-inch shorter push rod or a
0.060-inch longer push rod are available for service to provide a means of
compensating for dimensional
changes in the valve mechanism.
Refer to the Master Parts List for the
pertinent color code.
Valve stem to valve rocker arm
clearance should be within specifications with the hydraulic lifter completely collapsed. Repeated valve reconditioning operations (valve and/or
valve seat refacing) will decrease the
clearance to the point that if not
compensated for, the hydraulic valve
lifter will cease to function and the
valve will be held open.
To determine whether a shorter or
a longer push rod is necessary, make
the following check :
GROUP 8- ENGINE
(S terminal) at the starter relay. Install
an auxiliary starter switch between
the battery and S terminals of the
Starter relay. Crank the engine with
the ignitions switch 0 FF until the
No. I piston is on TDC after the
compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft in the
positions designated in Steps 3, 4 and
5 position the hydraulic lifter compressor tool on the rocker arm. Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the
hydraulic lifter until the plunger is
completely bottomed (Fig. 14 ). Hold
the lifter in this position and check
the available clearance between the
rocker arm and the valve stem tip
with a feeler gauge. The feeler gauge
width must not exceed 3/8-inch.
If the clearance is less than specifications, install an undersize push rod .
If the clearance is greater than specifications, install an oversize push rod.
3. With the No. I piston on TDC
at the end of the compression stroke,
POSITION A in Fig. 13, check the
following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust
No.4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust
No.8 Intake No.7 Exhaust
4. Rotate the crankshaft to POSITION 8 in Fig. 13 and check the following valves:
5. Rotate the crankshaft to POSITION C in Fig. 13 and check the followiniZ valves:
No. 21ntake No.4 Exhaust
The rocker arm, bolt, fulcrum seat
and rocker arm eliminates the necessity of adjusting.
~.
FIG. 12 -Yalft ca....c. Check

-
6 CYL
FIG. 14 Valve Clearance

Check-V-8
he valve clearance. However, to obtain the specified valve lash. it is important that all valve components be
in a serviceable condition and installed and torqued properly.
With the crankshaft in the
positions designated in steps 2, 3 and
4 remove the fulcrum seat and rocker
arm. Inspect them for wear. See Fig.
15.
VALVE ROCKER ARM
ASSEMBLY
If the pad at the valve end of
POSITION A - No. 1 at TDC ot end of compression str'oke.
POSITION 8 -Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees (one hoH
revolution) clockwise from POSITION A.
POSITION C - Rotate the cronkshoh 270 degrees (three
quarter revolut ion) clockwise from
POSITION B.
W1th No. 1 at TDC at end of compreuo~ stroke
make o chalk mark ot points Band C opproxtmotely
90 degrees apart.
FIG. 13 - Position of Crankshaft for Checking and

Adjusting Valve Clearance
::. ...
''
-:
,.
,.
'IROCKER
ARM
6564
FULCRUM
BOLT
6A529
FULCRUM
SEAT
6A528
FIG. 15 V8 ENGINE
the rocker arm has a grooved
radius, replace the rocker arm. Do
not attempt to true this surface
by grinding.
PUSH RODS
Following the procedures in Section 3 under Push Rod Inspection
check the push rods for straightness.
If the runout exceeds the maximum limit at any point, discard the
rod. Do not attempt to straighten
push rods.
Reaming Valve Guides. If it becomes necessary to ream a valve
guide (Fig. 16) to install a valve
with an oversize stem, a reaming kit is available which contains
the following reamer and pilot combinations: a 0.003-inch O.S. reamer
with a standard diameter pilot, a
0.015-inch O.S. reamer with a
0.003inch O.S. pilot, and a 0.030inch reamer with a 0.0 15-inch O.S.
pilot.
When going from a standard size
valve to an oversize valve, always
use the reamers in sequence. Always.
reface the valve seat after the valve
guide has been reamed.
Refacing Valve Seats. Refacing of
the valve seats should be closely coodinated with refacing of the valve
face so that the finished seat and
valve face will be concentric and
the specified interference fit will be
maintained. This is important so that
the valve and seat will have a compression tight fit. Be sure that the
refacer grinding wheels are properly
dressed.
Grind the valve seats to a true 45
or 30 angle (Fig. 17). Remove only
enough stock to clean up pits,
grooves, or to correct the valve seat

runout. Mter the seat has been refaced, use a seat width scale to
measure the seat width (Fig. 18).
Narrow the seat, if necessary, to
bring it within specifications.
If the valve seat width exceeds
the maximum limit, remove enough
stock from the top edge and/ or
bottom edge of the seat to reduce
the width to specifications (Fig. 17).
For exhaust valves use a 30 angle
grinding wheel to remove stock from
the top of the seats (lower the seats)
and use a 60 angle wheel to remove
stock from the bottom of the seats
(raise the seats).
For inlet valves use a 15 angle
the top of the seats and a 60 angle
the bottom of the seats.
The finished valve seat should contact the approximate centre of the
valve face. It is good practice to determine where the valve seat contacts
the face. To do this, coat the seat
with Prussian blue, then set the valve
in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to
the center of the valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the top edge of the valve
face, lower the valve seat. If the blue
is transferred to the bottom edge of
the valve face, raise the valve seat.
8-13
grooves, etc., may be removed. Discard valves that are severely damaged, or if the face runout or stem
clearance exceeds specifications.
Discard any defective part of the
valve assembly.
Refacing Valves. The valve refacing operation should be closely coordinated with the valve seat refacing operation so that the finished
angles of the valve face and of the
valve seat will provide a compression-tight fit. Be sure that the refacer grinding wheels are properly
dressed.
If the valve face runout is excessive and/ or to remove pits and
grooves, reface the valves to a true
44 angle. Remove only enough
stock to correct the runout or to
clean up the pits and grooves. If the
edge of the valve head is less than
Ya 2 inch thick after grinding, replace the valve as the valve will run
too hot in the engine. The interfer
eoce fit of the valve and seat should
not be lapped out.
Remove all grooves or score
TO REMOVE STOCK
FROM TOP OF SEAT,
USE 30 WHEEL
TO REMOVE
STOCK FROM
BOTIOM OF SEAT.
USE 60 WHEEL
FIG. 17 -Valve Seat Refacing
FIG. 16 -Reaming Valve Guides
marks from the end of the valve

stem, and chamfer it as necessary.
Do not remove more than 0.010
inch from the end of the valve stem.
If the valve and/ or valve seat has
been refaced, it will be necessary to
check the clearance between the
rocker arm pad and the valve stem
with the valve train assembly installed in the engine.
Seled Fitting Valves. If the valve
stem to valve guide clearance exceeds the wear limit, ream the valve
guide for the next oversize valve
stem. Valves with oversize stem diameters of 0.003, 0.015 and 0.030
inch are available for service. Always reface the valve seat after the
valve guide has been reametl.. Refer
to Reaming Valve Guides.
VALVES
For inspection procedures refer
to Section 3.
Valve defects, such as minor pits,
CAMSHAFf
Remove light scuffs, scores or
nicks from the camshaft machined
surfaces with a smooth oil stone.
8-14
CRANKSHAFf
Dress minor imperfections with an
oil stone. If the journals are severely
marred or exceed the wear limit,
they should be refinished to size for
the next undersize bearing.
Refinishing Journals. Refinish the
journal to give the proper clearance
with the next undersize bearing. If
GROUP 8- ENGINE
has been selected, check for a daDlaged piston; then, try a new piston.
If the clearance is less than the
minimum limit, recheck calculations
before trying another piston. If none
can be fitted, refinish the cylinder for
the next size pistor;1.
When a piston bas been fitted,
mark it for assembly in the cyUnder to which it was fitted.
If the taper, out-of-round and
piston to cylinder bore clearance
conditions of the cylinder bore are
within specified limits, new piston
rings will give satisfactory service.
Fitting Piston Rings

1. Select the proper ring set for
the size piston to be used.
l. Position the ring in the cylinder
bore in which it is going to be used.
3; Push the ring down into the
bore area where normal ring wear is
not encountered.
4. Use the head of a piston to
position the ring in the bore so that
the ring is square with the cylinder
wall. Use caution to avoid damage
TABLE 2-0versize Service Piston
FIG. 18 -Valve Seat Width

the journal will not clean up to
give the proper clearance with the
maximum undersize bearing available, replace the crankshaft.
Always reproduce the same journal shoulder radius that existed
originally. Too small a radius will
result in fatigue failure of the crankshaft. Too large a radius will result
in bearing failure due to radius ride
of the bearing.
After refinishing the journals,
chamfer the oil holes, then polish
the journal with a No. 320 grit
polishing cloth and engine oil. Crocus cloth may be used also as a
polishing agent.
PISTONS, PINS AND RIMGS
Fitting Pistons. Pistons are
available for service in standard
sizes and the oversizes shown in
Table 2.
The standard-size pistons are
color coded red or blue on the dome.
Refer to the specifications for the
standard-size piston dimensions.
Piston pins are provided with new
pistons.
Follow the procedures in Section
3 to measure the piston O.D. and
cylinder bore I.D. The dimensions
should be within specifications, and
the piston to bore clearance (bore
I.D. minus piston O.D.) must be
within the specified limits.
If the clearance is greater than the
maximum limit, recheck calculations
to be sure that the proper size piston
ENGINE
PISTON
OVERSIZE
(inches)
200
250
0.003, 0.020,
0.030, 0.040,
302
351
0.003, 0.020,
0.030 0.040
FIG. 19 -Piston Ring Gap

If the new rings are to be installed
in a used cylinder that has not been

refinished, remove the cylinder wall
glaze. Be sure to clean the cylinder
bore thoroughly, following the procedure in Section 3 page 8-19.
To Fit a Piston:
1. Calculate the~size piston to be
used by taking a cylinder bore.
check. Follow the procedures outlined in Section 3 page 8..19 .
2. Select the proper size piston
to provide the desired clearance
(refer to the specifications). Measure
the piston diameter in line with the
centerline of the piston pin and at
90 to the piston pin axis.
3. Make sure the piston and cylinder block are at room temperature {70F). After any refinishing
operation, aUow the cyUnder bore
to cool and make sure the piston
and bore :ae clean and dry before
the piston fit is checked.
FIG. 20 -Ring Side Clecwance

to the ring or cyUnder bore.
5. Measure the gap between the
ends of the ring with a feeler gauge
(Fig. 19). if the ring gap is less or
greater than the specified limits,
try another ring set.
6. Check the ring side clearance
of the compression rings with a
feeler cauge inserted between the ring
and its lower land (Fig. 20). The
gauge should slide freely around the
entire ring circumference without
binding. Any wear that occurs will
form a step at the inner portion of
the lower land. If the lower lands
have high steps, the piston should
be replaced.
Fitting Piston Pins.

Install the piston pin, following
the procedure under Piston Assembly page 8 35).
Piston piD bores must not be reamed
with hand-driven reamers. Use
motor-driven reamers, but do not
exceed the cutting speed (rpm)
recommended by the reamer manufacturer.
If a reamer is used, set the reamer to the size of the pin bore; then
expand the reamer slightly and trial
ream the pin bore. Take a light cut.
Use a pilot sleeve of the nearest
size to maintain alignment of the
bores.
Check the hole size, using the
new piston pin. If the bore is small,
expand the reamer slightly anrt make
PART 8-1-GENERAl ENGINE SERVICE

another cut. Repeat the procedure
until the proper fit is obtained.
Check the piston pin for fit in the
respective rod or rod bushing.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Refinishing CyUnder WaDs. Honing is :recommended for refinishing
cylinder walls only when the walls
have minor imperfections, such as
light scuffs and scratches or for fitting pistons to the specified clearance. The grade of hone to be used
is determined by the amount of
metal to be removed. Follow the instructions of the hone manufacturer.
If coarse stones are used to start
the honing operation, leave enough
material so that all hone marks can
be removed with the finishing hone
which is used to obtain the proper
piston clearance.
Cylinder walls that are severely
marred and/ or worn beyond the
specified limits should be refinished.
Before any cylinder is refinished, all
main bearing caps must be in place
and tightened to the proper torque
so that the crankshaft bearing boreswill not become distorted from thtil
refinishing operation.
Refinish only the cylinder or cylinders that require it. All plsto4S are
EJ
the same weight, both standard and

ovenlze; therefore, various sizes of
plstous can be used without upsetting engine balance.
Refinish the cylinder with the
most wear first to determine the
maximum oversize. If the cylinder
will not clean up when refinished
for the maximum oversize piston
recommended, replace the cylinder
block.
Refinish the cylinder to within approximately 0.0015 inch of the required oversize diameter. This will
allow enough stock for the final step
of honing so that the correct surface
finish and pattern are obtained. Use
clean sharp hones of No. 180-220
grit for this operation.
For the proper . use of the refinishing equipment, follow the instructions of the manufacturer. Only
experienced penonnel should be .._
lowed to perform this won.
After the final operation in either
of the two refinishing methods described and prior to checking the
piston fit, thoroughly clean and oil
the cylinder walls, following the
procedure in Section 3. Check the
piston fit, following the procedure
in this section and Section 3. Mark
8-15
the pistons to correspond to the

cylinders in which they are to be
installed. When the refinishing of
all cylinders that require it has been
completed and all pistons are fitted,
thoroughly clean the entire block
and oil the cylinder walls following
the procedure under Cylinder Block
Cleaning on page 8f9
FLYWHEEL RING GEARMANUAL-SHIFf

TRANSMISSIONS
To replace a defective ring gear,

heat the defective ring gear with a
blow torch on the engine side of the
gear, and knock it off the flywheel.
Do not hit the flywheel when removIng the ring gear.
Heat the new ring gear evenly
until the gear expands enough to
slip onto the flywheel. Make sure
the gear is seated properly against
the shoulder. Do not heat any portion of the gear to a tempenture
higher than 500F. If this Umlt II
exceeded, the temper will be re'moved froiD the ring gear teeth.
The cleaning and inspection procedures in this section are for a

complete engine overhaul; therefore,
for partial engine overhaul or parts
replacement, follow the pertinent
cleaning or inspection procedure.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from
the machined surfaces of the manifold. Clean the manifold in a suitable solvent and dry it with cornpressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the manifold for cracks,
damaged gasket surfaces, or other
defects that would make it unfit for
further service. Replace all studs
that are stripped or otherwise damaged. Remove all fiilngs and foreign
matter that may have entered the
manifold as a result of repaln.
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from
the manifolds. Make sure the automatic choke air inlet and outlet
hold (right exhaust manifold on
302 V-8 engines) are completeiy open

and the cover does not leak.
Blow out the automatic choke air
heat tube with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder head joining
flanges of the exhaust manifold(s)
for evidence of exhaust gas leaks.
Inspect the manifold(s) for cracks,
damaged gasket surfaces, or other
defects that would make them unfit
for further service.
VALVE ROCKER ARM

AND/OR SHAn ASSEMBLY
CLEANING
Clean all the parts thoroughly.
Make sure all oil passages are open.
On ball stud rocker arms, make
sure the oil passage in the push rod
end of the rocker arm is open.
INSPECTION
On rocker arm shaft assemblies,
check the clearance between each
rocker arm and the shaft by checking the ID of the rocker arm bore
and the OD of the shaft. If the clear.
ance between any rocker arm and
the shaft exceeds the wear limit, re-
place the shaft and/ or the rocker

arm. Inspect the shaft and the rocker
arm bore for nicks, scratches, scores
or scuffs.
Inspect the pad at the valve end
of the rocker arm for indications of
scuffing or abnormal wear. If the
pad is grooved, replace the .rocker
arm. Do not attempt to true this 1111'
face by grinding.
On ball stud rocker arms, check
the rocker arm and fulcrum seat for
excessive wear, cracks, nicks or
burrs. Check the rocker arm stud
.and nut for .stripped or broken
threads.
PUSH RODS
CLEANING
On a V-8 Engine, clean the push
rods in a suitable solvent. Blow out
the oil passage in the push rods
INSPECTION
Check the ends of the push rods
for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear.
The push rods can be visually
checked for straightness while they
are installed in the engine by rotat-
8-16
ing them with the valve closed. They
also can be checked with a dial indicator (Fig. 21).
CYLINDER HEADS
CLEANING
With the valves installed to protect the valve seats, remove deposits
from the combustion chambers and
valve heads with a scraper and a
wire brush. Be careful not to damage
the cylinder head gasket surface.
After the valves are removed, clean
the valve guide bores with a valve
guide cleaning tool. Use cleaning
solvent to remove dirt, grease and
other deposits. Clean all bolt holes;
be sure the oil transfer passage is
clean.
FIG. 21 -Push Rod Runout

Remove all deposits from the
valves with a fine wire brush or buffing wheel.
INSPECTION
Check the cylinder head for
cracks, and inspect the gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Replace
the head if it is cracked.
The following inspection procedures are for a cylinder head that
is to be completely overhauled. For
individual repair operations, use
only the pertinent inspection procedure.
Cylinder Head Flatness. When a
cylinder head is removed because
of gasket leaks, check the flatness
of the cylinder head gasket surface
(Fig. 22) for conformance to specifications.
If necessary to refinish the cylinder head gasket surface, do not
plane or grind off more than 0.010
inch.
Vlllve Seat Runout. Check the
valve seat runout with an accurate
gauge (Fig. 23). Follow the instructions of the gauge manufacturer. If
the runout exceeds the wear limit,
reface the valve and valve seat.
Valve Seat Width. Measure the
valve seat width (Fig. 18). Reface
the valve seats if the width is not
within specifications.
Valves. The critical inspection
points and tolerances of the valves
are illustrated in Fig. 24. Refe~ to
GROUP 8- ENGINE
the specifications for the wear limits. Inspect the valve face and the
edge of the valve head for pits,
grooves, scores or other defects. Inspect the stem for a bent condition
and the end of the stem for grooves
FIG. 22 -Typical Cylinder Head
upper surface of the valve guide.

Position the dial indicator with
its flat tip against the center portion
of the tool's spherical section at
approximately 90 to the valve
stem axis. Move the tool back and
forth in line with the indicator
stem. Take a reading on the dial
indicator without removing the tool
from the valve guide upper surface.
Divide the reading by two, the
division factor for the tool.
Valve Sprlag Pressure. Check the
springs for proper pressure (Fig. 27)
at the specified spring lengths. Weak
valve springs cause poor engine
performance; therefore, if the pres-
Flatness
or scores. Check the valve head for
signs of burning, erosion, warpage
and cracking. Defects, such as minor
pits, grooves, etc., may be removed.
Discard valves that are severely
damaged.
Inspect the valve springs, valve
spring retainers, locks and sleeves
for defects.
Valve Face Runout. Check the
valve face runout (Fig. 25). It
should not exceed the specified wear
limit. If the runout exceeds the wear
limits, the valve should be refaced
or replaced as outlined under Refacing Valves in Section 2.
Valve Stem Cleanmce. Check the
valve stem to valve guide clearance
of each valve in its resoective valve
guide with the tool shown in Fig. 26
or its equivalent.
Install the tool on the valve stem
until it is fully seated, and tighten
the knurled set screw firmly. Permit
the valve to drop away from its
seat until the tool contacts the
FOR DIMENSIONS,
REFER TO
SPECIFICATIONS
VALVE
FACE
ANGLE
FIG. 24 -Critical Valve Tolerances

mre of any spring approaches the
wear limit, replace the spring.
Valve Sprlag SquareDess. Check
each spring for squareness using a
steel square and a surface plate
(Fig. 28). Stand the spring and
square on end on the surface plate.
Slide the spring up to the square.
Revolve the spring slowly and observe the space between the top
coil of the spring and the square. If
FIG. 25 -Valve Race Runout

FIG. 23 -Typical Valve Seat
Runout
the spring is out of square more than

*e inch, replace it.

Follow the same procedure to
check new valve springs before installation.
Make certain the proper spriag
(color coded) is installed.
HYDRAULIC VALVE LlmRS

The valve lifter assemblies !ihould
be kept in proper sequence so that
they can be installea in their original
position. Inspect and test each lifter
separately so as not to intermix the
internal parts. If aoy part of the 6ft.
er assembly needs replacing, replace
the entire assembly.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean all the parts in
FIG. 26 -Typical Valve Stem

Clearance
clean solvent and wipe them with a
clean, lint-free cloth.
INSPECTION
Inspect the parts . and discard the
entire lifter assembly if any part
shows pitting, scoring, galling or
evidence of non-rotation. Replace
the entire assembly if the plunger is
not free in the body. The plunger
should drop to the bottom of the
body by its own weight when
assembled dry.
Assemble the lifter assembly and

check for freeness of operation by
pressing down on the push rod cup.
The lifters can also be checked with
a hydraulic tester to test the leak
down rate. Follow the instructions
of the test unit manufacturer or the
procedure in Section 1.
TIMING CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
CLEANING
Clean all parts in solvent and dry
them with compressed air.
Lubricate the timing chain with
engine oil before installing it on the
engine.
INSPECTION
Inspect the chain for broken, links.
Inspect the sprockets for cracks and
worn or damaged teeth. Replace all
components of the timing chain and
sprocket assembly if any one item
needs replacement.
On a V-8 Engine, inspect the fuel
pump drive eccentric for scores,
nicks or excessive wear. If the
eccentric is scored, replace it.
CAMS HAn
Clean the camshaft in solvent and
wipe it dry. Inspect the camshaft
lobes for scoring and signs of abnormal wear. Lobe wear characteristics may result in pitting in the
general area of the lobe toe. This
pitting is not detrimental to the
operation of the camshaft; therefore, the camshaft should not be
replaced until the lobe lift loss has
exceeded 0.005 inch.
8-17
CRANKSHAn VIBRATION
DAMPER AND SLEEVE
CLEANING
Clean the oil seal contact surface on the crankshaft damper with
solvent to remove any corrosion,
sludge or varnish deposits. Excess
deposits that are not readily removed
with solvent may be removed with
crocus cloth. Use crocus cloth to
remove any sharp edges, burrs or
other imperfections which might
damage the oil seal durmg installation or cause premature seal wear.
Do not use crocus cloth to the

extent that the seal surface becomes polished. A finely polished
surface may produce poor sealing or cause premature seal
wear.
INSPECTION
Inspect the crankshaft damper
oil seal surface for nicks, sharp
edges or burrs that might damage
the oil seal during installation or
cause premature seal wear.
CRANKSHAn
CLEANING
Handle the crankshaft with care
to avoid possible fractures or damage to the finished surfaces. Clean
the crankshaft with solvent, then
blow out all oil passages with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect main and connecting rod
journals for cracks, scratches,
grooves or scores.
Measure the diameter of each
journal in at least four places to determine out-of-round. taoer or undersize condition (Fig. 29).
On engines used with a manualshift transmission, check the fit of
the clutch pilot bearing in the bore
of the crankshaft. The bearing is
=
=
A VS B
VERTICAL TAPER
C VS D
HORIZONTAL TAPER
A VS C AND B VS D
OUT-OF-ROUND
CHECK FOR OUT-OF.ROUND AT
EACH END OF JOURNAL
APPLY TORQUE UNTIL CLICK

IS HEARD. READ Torque
Wrench AND MULTIPLY
READING BY
TWO 12).
FIG. 28 -Valve Spring

Squareness
SET KNOB TO
COMPRESSED
LENGTH
OF SPRING
FIG. 27 -Valve Spring Pressure
The lift of the camshaft lobes can

be checked with the camshaft installed in the engine or on centers.
Refer to Camshaft Lobe Lift.
Check the distributor drive gear
for broken or chipped teeth.
I
I
'
___,
' ','J~~---------~~
FIG. 29 -Crankshaft Jownal

Measurements
8-18
pressed into the crankshaft and
should not be loose.
Inspect the pilot bearing for roughness, evidence of overheating or loss
of lubricant. Replace it if any of these
conditions are found.
FLYWHEEL-MANUAL-SHin
TRANSMISSIONS
INSPECTION
Inspect the flywheel for cracks,
heat checks, or other defects that
would make it unfit for further
service. Machine the entire pressure plate mounting surface of the
flywheel if it is scored or worn.
If it is necessary to remove more
than 0.045 inch of stock from the
original thickness, replace the flywheel.
Inspect the ring gear for worn,
chipped or cracked teeth. If the
teeth are damaged, replace the ring
gear.
With the flywheel installed on the
crankshaft, check the flywheel face
runout, following the procedure in
Section 1.
FLYWHEEL-AUTOMAnC
TRANSMISSION
INSPECI'ION
Inspect the flywheel for cracks
or other defects that would make
it unfit for further service. Inspect
the starter ring gear for worn,
chipped or cracked teeth. If the
teeth are damaged, replace the
ring gear and flywheel assembly.
With the flywheel installed on the
crankshaft, check the gear face runout and outside diaQleter runout of
the flywheel (refer to Section 1 for
the proper procedure).
CONNECTING RODS
CLEANING
Remove the bearings from the rod
and cap. Identify the bearings if
they are to be used again. Clean the
connecting rod in solvent, including
the rod bore and the back of the
inserts. Do Dot use a caustic cleaaJaa
solution. Blow out all passages with
compressed air.
INSPECTION
The connecting rods and related
parts should be carefully inspected
and checked for conformance to
specifications. Various forms of engine wear caused by these parts can
be readily identified.
A shiny surface on the pin boss
side of the piston usually indicates
that a connecting rod is bent or the
piston pin hole is not in proper re-
GROUP 8- ENGINE
lation to the piston skirt and ring
grooves.
Abnormal connecting rod bearing
wear can be caused by either a bent
connecting rod, an improperly machined crilnkpin, or a tapered connecting rod bore.
Twisted connecting rods will not
create an easily identifiable wear
pattern, but badly twisted rods will
disturb the action of the entire piston, rings and connecting rod assembly and may be the cause of
excessive oil consumption.
Inspect the connecting rods for
signs of fractures and the bearing
bores for out-of-round and taper.
If the bore exceeds the recommended limits and/ or if the connecting
rod is fractured, it should be replaced.
Check the J.D. of the connecting
rod piston pin bore. Replace the
connecting rod if the pin bore is
not within specifications.
Replace defective connecting rod
nuts and bolts.
If the connecting rod has been
removed from the piston it should
be checked for bend or twist before
assembling it to the piston. Connecting rods can be checked for
bend or twist while assembled to
the piston. Check the connecting
rods for bend or twist on a suitable
alignment fixture. Follow the instructions of the fixture manufacturer. If the bend and/ or twist exceeds specifications, the connecting
rod must be straightened or replaced.
PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS
CLEANING
Remove deposits from the piston
surfaces. Clean gum or varnish from
the piston skirt, piston pins and
rings with solvent. Do not use a
caustic cleaning solutio& or a wire
brush to clean pistons. Clean the
r!ng grooves with a ring groove
cleaner (Fig. 30). Make sure the oil
ring slots (or holes) are clean.
INSPECTION
Carefully inspect the pistons for
fractures at the ring lands, skirts
and pin bosses, and for scuffed,
rough or scored skirts. If the lower
inner portion of the ring grooves
has a high step, replace the piston.
The step will interfere with ring
operation and cause excessive ring
side clearance.
Spongy, eroded areas near the
edge of the top of the piston are
usually caused by detonation or
pre-ignition. A shiny surface on the

thrust surface of the piston, offset
from the centerline between the piston pin holes, can be caused by a
bent connecting rod. Replace pistons that show signs of excessive
wear, wavy ring lands or fractures
or damage from detonation or preignition.
Check the piston to cylinder bore
clearance by measuring the piston
and bore diameters. Refer to the
specifications for the proper clearance. Refer to Cylinder Block InRing Groove Cleaner
FIG. 30 -Cleaning Ring Grooves

-Typical
spection for the bore measurement
procedure. Measure the o:o. of the
piston with micrometers at the centerline of the piston pin bore and
at 90 to the pin bore axis.
Check the ring side clearance following the procedure und<:r Fitting
Piston Rings in Section 2 page 8-14.
Replace piston pins showing signs
of fra~...ure, etching or wear. Check
the piston pin fit in the piston
and rod. Refer to Pistons and Connecting Rods Assembly in the per~
tinent engine section.
Check the O.D. of the piston pin
and the l.D. of the pin bore in the
piston. Replace any piston pin or
piston that is not within specifications.
Replace all rings that are scored,
chipped or cracked. Check the end
gap and side clearance. It is good
practice to always install new rings
when overhauling an engine. Rings
should not be transferred from one
piston to another regardless of
mileage.
MAIN AND CONNECTING
ROD BEARINGS
CLEANING
Clean the bearing inserts and caps
thoroughly in solvent, and dry them
with compressed air. Do not scrape
8-19

aum or vualsh depoalts from the
bearing shells.
INSPECI10N
Inspect each bearing carefully.
Bearings that have a scored, chipped
or worn.surface should be replaced.
Typical examples of bearing failures
and their causes are shown in Fig.
31. The copper lead bearing base
may be visible through the bearing
overlay. This does not mean that the
bearing is worn. It is not necessary
to replace the bearing if the bearing
clearance is within recommended
limits. Check the clearance of bearings that appear to be satisfactory
with Plastigage. Fit new bearings
following the recommended procedure in the pertinent part of
Group 8.
CYLINDER BLOCK
CLEANING
After any cylinder bore repair
operation, such as honing or deglazing, clean the bore(s) with soap
or detergent and water. 'Then,
thoroughly rinse the bore(s) with
clean water to remove the soap or
detergent, and wipe the bore(s) dry
with a dean, Hnt-free doth. FinaUy,
wipe the bore(s) with a dean doth
dipped in engine oil. If these procedures are not foUowed, nudq of
the cyHnder bore(s) may occur.
If the engine is disassembled,
thoroughly clean the block in solvent. Remove old gasket material
from all machined surfaces. Remove
all pipe plugs that seal oil passages;
then clean out all the passages.
Blow out all passages, bolt holes,
etc., with compressed air.
Make sure the threads in the
cylinder head bolt holes are clean.
Dirt in the threads may cause binding and result in a false torque
reading. Use a tap to true-up
threads and to remove any deposits.
INSPECTION
After the block has been thoroughly cleaned, make a check for
cracks. Minute cracks not visible to

the naked eye may be detected by
coating the suspected area with a
mixture of 25% kerosene and 75%
light motor oil. Wipe the part dry
and immediately apply a coating of
zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol.
If cracks are present, the coating
will become discolored at the defective area. Replace the block if
it is cracked.
Check all machined gasket surfaces for burrs, nicks, scratches and
scores. Remove minor imperfections
with an oil stone. Check the ftatness
of the cylinder block gasket surface
following the procedure and specifications recommended for the cylinder head. The cylinder block can
be machined to bring the cylinder
head gasket surface within the fiatness specifications, but not to exceed
0.010 inch stock removal.
Replace all expansion-type plugs
that show evidence of leakage.
Inspect the cylinder walls for
scoring, roughness or other signs of
wear. Check the cylinder bore for
out-of-round and taper. Measure the
bore with an accurate gauge following the instructions of the manufacturer. Measure the diameter of each
cylinder bore at the top, middle and
bottom with the gauge placed at
right angles and parallel to the centerline of the engine (Fig. 32). Use
only the measurements obtained at
90 to the engine centerline when
calculadng the piston to cyHnder
bore clearance.
._CENTER LINE OF ENGINE -
AT
RIGHT
ANGLE
TO
CENTER
LINE OF
ENGINE
a
PARALLEL
TO
CENTER
LINE OF
ENGINE
1. OUT-OF-ROUND :
2. TAPER :
.-
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
A AND a
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE A
MEASUREMENT AT TOP OF
CYLINDER BORE AND THE A
MEASUREMENT AT BOTIOM OF
CYLINDER BORE
FIG. 32 -Cylinder Bore

Out-of-Round and Taper
Use the finest grade of honing stone
for this operation.
OIL PAN
CLEANING
Scrape any dirt or metal particles
from the insidr of the pan. Scrape
all old gasket material from the gasket surface. Wash the pan in a solvent and dry it thoroughly. Be sure
all foreign particles are removed
from below the batHe plate.
INSPECTION
Check the pan for cracks, holes,
damaged drain plug threads, a loose
batHe, and a nicked or warped gasket surface.
Repair any damage, or replace the
pan if repairs can not be made.
Refinish cylinders that are deeply scored and/or when out-of-round

and/ or taper exceed the wear li~its.
If the cylinder walls have m10or
surface imperfections, but the outof-round and taper are within limits,
it may be possible to remove the
imperfections by honing the cylinder walls and installing new service piston rings providing the piston
clearance is within specified limits.
I
FIG. 33
-outer Ract to Housing
Clearance
IMPROPER SEATING
FIG. 31 -Typical a..ing Failures
OIL PUMP
CLEANING
Wash all parts in a solvent and
dry them thoroughly with compressed air. Use a brush to clean the
inside of the pump housing and the
pressure relief valve chamber. Be
sure all dirt and metal particles are
removed.
INSPECTION
Refer to the specifications for
clearances and wear limits.
8-20
Check the inside of the pump
housing and the outer race and rotor
for damage or excessive wear.
Check the mating surface of the
pump cover for wear. If the cover
mating surface is worn, scored or
grooved, replace the cover.
Measure the outer race to housing
clearance (Fig. 33) which should be
to specifications.
With the rotor assembly installed
in the housing so that the identification mark on the outer race is
toward the bottom of the pump,
place a straight edge over the rotor
assembly and the housing. Measure
the clearance (rotor end play) between the straight edge and the rotor
and outer race (Fig. 34).
1be outer race, abaft and rotor are
replaceable only a an assembly.
Check the drive shaft to housing
bearing clearance by measuring the
OD of the shaft and the ID of the
housing bearing.
Check the rotor tip clearance as
shown in Fig. 35.
Inspect the relief valve spring for
a collapsed or worn condition.
Check the relief valve spring ten-
GROUP 8-ENGINE
sion. If the spring tension is not within specifications and/ or the spring is
defective, replace the spring.
Check the relief valve piston for
scores and free operation in the bore.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE
VENTILATION SYSTEM
Refer to Group 19 for the correct
mileage interval for maintenance.
CLEANING
Do not attempt to clean the crankcase ventilation regulator valve. It
should be replaced at the specified
mileage intervals (Group 19).
The oil filler tube breather cap,
located on the valve rocker arm
cover should be cleaned at the
specified interval. Remove the cap
and wash it in a low-volatilty, petroleum-base solvent. Probe the breather hole(s) to assure r,.moval of
any accumulated deposits. Shake the
cap dry and install it. Do not dry
with compressed air as air pressure
may damage the filter element.
Clean the crankcase ventilauon
system connection on the carburetor spacer by probing the inlet
nipple with a flexible wire or bottle
brush.
Clean the rubber hoses with a

low-volatility, petroleum-base solvent and dry with compressed air.
FIG. 34 -Rotor End Play
FIG. 35 -Checking Pump Rotor
Tip Clearance

Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail
8-22
PART
8-2
200,250C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
Section
II
Description and Operation

Manifolds
Cylinder Head
Cylinder Block
Valve Train
Lubrication System
Crankcase Ventilation ....
Cooling System .. ..
In-Car Adjustments and Repairs
Engine Supports
Manitolds Remove and Replace 250 2 V
Exhaust Manifold
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly
Cylinder Head
Valve Spring Retainer and Stem Seal
Replacement
Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain
Camshaft
Page
8-22
8 -22
8-22
8-23
8-23
8-23
8-24
8 -25
8-26
8-26
&- 27
Sectior
8-27
8-27
8-28
3
4
8-29
8-30
8-31
Camshaft Rear Bearing Bore Plug

Replacement
Hydraulic Valve Lifter ....
Main and Connecting I:od Bearing
Replacement
Pistons and Connecting Rods .. . .
Flywheel
Clutch Pilot Bushing }{eplarement
Oil Filter Replacement ....
Oil Pan
Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . . . .
Engine Removal and Installation
Major Repair Operations
Ctankshaft
Camshaft Bearing Replacement
Cylinder Assembly RE- placemen t
Cylinder Block Replacement
Engine Disassembly
Engine Assembly
The 200 and 250 six-cylinder

engines (Figs. 1, 2 and 3) are available with optional high and low
compression ratios (refer specifications).
MANIFOLDS
Exhaust gases provide the heat
necessary to assist in vaporizing the
incoming fuel mixture.
CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder bead carries the
valves, valve rocker arm shaft assembly, integrally cast intake manifold,
the coolant outlet and thermostat.
Valve guides are integral with the
bead. The valves are arranged from
front to rear E-1-1-E-1-E-E-1-E-1-1-E.
FIG. 1 -Typical Left View
Page
8-32
8-32
8 - 33
8-34
8-36
8-36
8-36
8-36
8-37
8 -38
8-39
8- 39
8- 40
8 -41
8-41
8- 41
8-42
PART 8-2- 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
8-23
CYLINDER BLOCK
The cylinders are numbered from
1 to 6 starting at the front of the engine. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
The distributor, located on the left
front of the engine, drives the oil
pump through an intermediate drive
shaft.
The crankshaft is supported by
seven main bearings. Crankshaft and
thrust is controlled by the flanges of
the No. 5 main bearing.
The pistons have two compression
rings and one oil control ring. The
top compression ring is molybdenum
coated and the lower compression
ring is phosphate-coated. The oil
control ring assembly consists of a
serrated spring and two chromeplated steel rails.
VALVE TRAIN
The Six cylinder engines utilize
hydraulic valve lifters to provide
zero lash. The operation and parts
identification of the hydraulic valve
lifters are shown in (Fig. 4). When
the valve is closed, the lifter assembly
is on the base circle of the camshaft
lobe and the valve push rod is in
its lowest position. With the lifter
assembly in this position, the plunger
spring expands, forcing the plunger
upward. This action is transmitted
to the valve rocker arm via the
valve push rod until there is solid
contact between the valve and the
valve end of the valve rocker arm
(zero valve lash).
As the lifter plunger moves upward, the volume of the compression
chamber is increased, resulting in
reduced oil pressure in the compression chamber. Therefore, to equalize
the resulting pressure differential between the supply chamber and the
compression chamber, the disc valve
moves off its seat and permits oil to
flow from the supply chamber to the
compression chamber. When the
compression chamber becomes filled
with oil, the pressures in the two
chambers are equalized. The oil flow
ceases and the disc valve spring seats
the disc valve and closes the disc
valve port.
As the camshaft rotates, the lifter
assembly is raised by the camshaft
lobe. This increases the push rod
force against the lifter plunger and
hydraulic pressure immedately builds
up in the compression chamber until
it acts as a solid member of the valve
operating mechanism . The lifter then
FIG. 2-Typical
Front
View
becomes a hydraulic ram which

forces the valve in the cylinder head
to open. During this period, a slight
leakage of oil past the plunger occurs
(calibrated leak down rate).
As the high point of the camshaft
lobe rotates and passes by the foot
of the valve lifter, the valve in the
cylinder head seats and the valve
lifter assembly is forced downward.
Reduced force on the lifter plunger
at . this time relieves the pressure on
the lifter plunger and it is free to be
moved upward by the plunger spring.
This action allows oil to flow once
again through the oil holes in the
lifter body and plunger.
The operating cycle is completed
for each revolution of the camshaft.
Zero clearance (lash) in the valve
train mechanism is maintained at all
times by the hydraulic force and expansion of the plunger spring between the lifter body and plunger.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil from the oil pan sump is
forced through the pressure-type lubrication system (Fig. 6) by a rotor
pump. A spring-loaded relief valve
in the pump limits the maximum
pressure of the system. Oil relieved
by the valve is directed back to the
intake side of the pump.
All the oil discharged by the
pump passes through a full flowtype filter before it enters the engine. The filter has an internal by-
2S0-2v
pass valve and mounting gasket.
The by-pass valve permits oil to
by-pass the filter if it becomes
clogged, thereby maintaining an
emergency supply of oil to the
engine at all times. An anti-drain
back diaphragm prevents a reverse
flow of oil when the engine is
stopped.
From the filter, the oil flows into
the main oil gallery. The oil gallery
supplies oil to all the camshaft and
main bearings through a drilled
passage in each main bearing web.
The timing chain and sprockets
are splash-lubricated from the oil
pan.
An oil slinger prevents leaka6e by
directing oil away from the crankshaft rear oil seal.
Cylinder walls, pistons and piston
pins are lubricated through a drilled
hole in each connecting rod which
indexes with a drilled hole in the
connecting rod journal of the crankshaft.
Oil from the main gallery feeds
pressure oil to the hydraulic valve
lifters and lubricates the lifter bores
in the cylinder block. A reservoir at
each valve lifter bore boss traps oil
so that oil is available for valve lifter
lubrication as soon as the engine
starts.
Oil under reduced pressure is fed
to the valve rocker arm shaft assem-
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-24
FIG. 3-TYPICAL
Sectional View
A2293A
bly through a drilled passage in the

cylinder block at the No. 4 camshaft
bearing. The oil is metered by a
groove in the camshaft journal. The
passage in the block indexes with &.
hole in the cylinder head. The oil
passage in the cylinder bead is drilled
from the cylinder head bolt bore to
the No. 6 valve rocker arm shaft
support. The rocker arm shaft supports have a square cored bolt
mounting hole for more positive
lubrication of the rocker arms, shafts
and valves. The oil flows through the
valve rocker arm shaft through
drilled holes in each rocker arm to
lubricate the valve and the push
rod end of the rocker arm. The excess oil spirals down the rotating
push rod and assists in lubricating
the tappet and push rod seat. An
oil outlet in the No. 1 rocker arm
shaft support, exhausts excess oil
from the valve rocker arm shaft.
The oil from each rocker arm drains
into the push rod chamber through
the push rod bore holes in the cylinder head.
The oil in the push rod chamber
drains back into the oil pan through
cored openings in the block.
case ventilation system is shown in

Fig. 5.
Ventilating air enters the engine
through the oil filler cap located on
the front of the valve rocker arm
cover. The filler cap contains a filter-
ing element which filters the incoming air.

From the oil filler cap, the air
flows into the front section of the
valve rocker arm shaft chamber. The
ventilating air moves down past the
push rods and into the crankcase.
Air is diverted from the front section of the crankcase through holes
in the front of the cylinder block
wall to ventilate the timing chain
chamber.
The rotating action of the crankshaft causes the air to flow towards
the rear of the crankcase and up into
the rear section of the valve rocker
arm cover. The air then enters a
spring-loaded regulator valve that
regulates the amount of air flow to
meet changing operating conditions.
The air is then directed to the intake
manifold through the crankcase vent
hose and the spacer fitting.
During idle, intake manifold
vacuum is high. The high vacuum
overcomes the tension of the spring
pressure and moves the valve to a
low flow position (Fig. 7). With the
valve in this position, all the ventilating air passes through the restricted passage in the valve. With
the valve in this position, there is
minimum ventilation. As engine
speed increases and manifold
vacuum decreases, the spring forces
the valve out of the passage and to
the full open position (Fig. 7 ). This
increases the flow of ventilating air.
7"0C'
OIL GALLERY
POSITIVI
CRANKCASE VENTILATION
SYSTEM
The air flow in the positive crank-
A2132-B
FIG. 4-Hydraulic Valve lifter Operation
PART 82-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

COOLING SYSTEM
The coolant is drawn from the
bottom of the radiator by the water
pump which delivers the coolant to
.. the cylinder block (Fig. 8) .
As the coolant enters the block, it
"'
travels through cored passages to
cool the entire length of each cylinder wall. Upon reaching the rear of
the cylinder block, the coolant is
directed upward into the cylinder
head where it cools the combustion
chambers, valves, and valve seats on
, "' its return to the front of the engine.
At this point, the coolant tl.ows
into the coolant outlet connection,
past the thermostat if it is open, and
irito the top of the radiator. If the
thermostat is closed, a small portion
of tbe coolant is returned to the
water pump for recirculation . The.
entire system is pressurized to 13-15
psi.
A.
FIG. 5-Positive Crankcase Ventilation System -Typical
......
.......
' .
FIG. 6 -Typical lubrication System
8-25
GROUP
8-26
8-
ENGINE
TO INTAKE MANIFOLD
LOW SPEED OPERATION-HIGH MANIFOLD VACUUM

HIGH SPEED OPERATION-LOW MANIFOLD VACUUM
FROM CRANKCASE
AND / OR ROCKER
ARM COVER
FIG. 7-Positive Crankcase Ventilation Regulator Valve Operation
EJ
FIG. 9-Engine Front Support
When installing nuts or bolts that

must be torqued (refer to page 8-70
for torque specifications), oil the
threads with light weight engine oil.
Do not oU threads that require oU
resistant or water-resistant sealer.
ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT
The procedures given apply to
either a right or left installation.
The engine front supports are located on each side of the cylinder
block (Fig. 9)
Removal
1. Remove the insulator to support
bracket retaining nuts.
2. Using a wood block placed
under the oil pan raise the engine
only enough to clear the insulator
bolts at the frame bracket.
3. Remove the retaining bolt and
nut from the insulator to engine
front support insulator bracket, and
remove the insulator.
Installation
1. Position the insulator to the engine front support insulator bracket
and install the retaining bolt and
nut. Torque to specifications.
2. Carefully lower the engine guiding the insulator bolts into the frame
bracket.
3. Install the insulator to frame
bracket retaining nuts and torque to
specifications.
ENGINE REAR SUPPORT
The rear support is located at
the transmission extension housing
(Fig 10)
Removal
1. Support the transmission with a
ftoor jack to relieve weight from the
supporting crossmember.
2. Remove the retaining nuts,
washers, and cotter keys from the
supporting crossmember, and remove
the supporting crossmember.
3. Remove the screws and washers
which retain the engine rear support
insulator assembly beneath the transmission.
FIG. 8 -Cooling System
4. Remove the insulator assembly.

Installation
1. Position the engine rear support
insulator assembly in place beneath
the transmission, and install the
retaining screws. Torque them to
specifications.
2. Position the supporting crossmember and install the retaining
washers and nuts. Torque them to
specifications.
3. Install the cotter keys. If neces-
~
I
it
I
FIG. 10 -
Engine Rear Support
sary, contmue tightening the two

outer nuts as required to align the
castellations.
INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACE
MENT. 250-2V ENGINE ONLY.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the aircleaner.
2. Remove the manifold hot water
hoses.
3. Remove the fuel line fuel fil.
ter to carburettor.
4. Remove choke tubes, throttle
linkage, distributor vacuum and crank
case emission tubes.
5. Remove the bolts manifold to
cylinder head and remove the manifold.
6. Remove the carburettor from
the manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean all old gasket material
from the cylinder head and manifold.
2. Apply sufficient grease to the
manifold gaskets to hold them in
position whilst the manifold is being
fitted.
3. Position the gaskets on the
cylinder head or manifold and assem
ble the manifold to the cylinder head.
4. If previously removed install the
carburettor on the manifold using a
new flange gasket.
5. Install choke tubes, throttle
linkage, distributor vacuum and crank
case emission tubes.
6. Install the fuel line filter to
carburettor.
7. Install the aircleaner.
8. Start engine and check carburettor adjustment.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT. 250 2V ENGINE ONLY.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake manifold as
previously outlined.
2. Loosen the alternator belt adjusting arm and remove the drive belt,
and swing the alternator outboard as
far as the mounting brackets will
allow.
3. Loosen the muffler inlet pipe
to manifold extension pipe clamp and
free the pipe at the join.
4. Remove the bolts manifold to
cylinder head and remove the manifold from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove all the old gasket material from the cylinder head and manifold.
2. Using new gaskets assemble the
manifold to the cylinder head and
torque the bolts to specification.
3. Connect the muffler inlet pipe
to the manifold extension and torque
the clamp to specification.
4. Install the alternator drive belt
and adjust to specification.
5. Install the intake manifold as
described in previous operation.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
1. Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe from
the exhaust manifold.
l. Bend the exhaust manifold retaining bolt lock tabs back and remove the retaining bolts. Remove
CLEANING AND INSPECfiON
Refer to page 8-15 for the cleaning
and inspection procedures.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the mating surfaces of
the exhaust manifold and cylinder
head. Inspect manifold to muffler
inlet pipe sealing ring.
l. Apply graphite .. grease to the
mating surface of the exhaust manifold.
3. Position the exhaust manifold
on the cylinder head and install
the retaining bolts and tab washers.
Working from the center to the ends,
torque the bolts to specifications.
Lock the bolts by bending one tab of
the washer over a flat on the bolt.
4. Place sealing ring on the mutfter inlet pipe. Position the muffler
inlet pipe to the manifold. Install
and torque the retaining nuts to
specifications.
5. Install the air cleaner. Start the
engine and check for exhaust leaks.
VALVE ROCKER ARM
SHAn ASSEMILY
REMOVAL
1. Remove the air cleaner
8-27
2. Remove the effilSSion control

system vent hose and valve assembly.
3. Remove the carburettor to fuel
pump pipe and the carburettor to
distributor vacuum line.
4. Remove the valve rocker arm
cover and discard the gasket.
5. Remove the rocker arm shaft
support bolts by loosening the bolts
two turns at a time in sequence. Remove the rocker arm shaft assembly
(Fig. 11). Remove the valve push
rods.
FIG. 11- Valve Rocker Arm

Shaft Removal
INSTALLATION
1. Apply Lubriplate to both ends
of the push rods and to the valve
stem tip.
2. Install the valve push rods. Position the valve rocker arm shaft
assembly on the cylinder head.
3. Install and tighten all valve
rocker arm support bolts, two turns
at a time in sequence, until the supports fully contact the cylinder head.
4. If any part which could affect
the valve clearance has been
changed, check the valve clearance
following the procedure outlined under Valve Clearance-Six cylinder
engines (page 8-11 ).
S. Clean the valve rocker arm
cover and cylinder head gasket surfaces. Coat one side of a new gasket
with an oil resistant sealer and lay
the cemented side of the gasket in
place on the cover. Install the cover,
making sure the gasket seats evenly
around the head. Tighten the cover
retaining bolts in two steps. First,
torque the bolts to specifications;
then, retorque to the same specifications two minutes after initial
tightening.
6. Install the emission control
system hose and valve assembly.
7. Install the air cleaner.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the pin and spring
washer from each end of the valve
rocker arm shaft.
1. Slide the valve rocker arms,
springs, and supports off the shaft.
Be sure to identify the parts.
3. If it is necessary to remove the
plugs from each end of the shaft,
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-28
drill or pierce the plug on one end.
Use a steel rod to knock out the
plug on the opposite end. Working
from the open end, knock out the
remaining plug.
Refer to page 8'-15 for the cleaning
'REPAIRS
Refer to page 8-39 for the repair
procedures.
ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate all parts with engine
oil. Apply Lubriplate to the valve
and push rod ends of the rocker
arm.
l. If the plugs were removed
from the ends of the shaft, use a
blunt tool or large diameter pin
punch and install a plug, cup side
out, in each end of the shaft.
3. Install the spring. washer and
pin on one end of the shaft.
4. Install the valve rocker arms,
supports, and springs in the order
shown in (Fig. 12) Be sure the oH
holes in the shaft are fadnc dowaward. Complete the assembly by IDstalllng the remaining spring washer
and pin.
CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system. Remove the air cleaner.
l. Disconnect the muffler inlet
pipe at the exhaust manifold. Pull the
muffler inlet pipe down .
3. Disconnect the accelerator rod
retracting spring. Disconnect the
accelerator rod at the carburetor.
4. Disconnect the fuel inlet line at
the fuel filter hose, and the distributor vacuum line at the carburetor.
5. Remove the radiator upper hose
at the coolant outlet housing.
6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line at the distributor. Disconnect the carburetor fuel inlet line
at the fuel pump. Remove the lines
as an assembly.
7. Disconnect the spark plug
wires at the spark plugs and the
temperature sending unit wire at the
sending unit.
8. Remove the emission control
cover.
shaft assembly. Remove the valve
push rods in sequence (Fig. 13).
11. Remove the remaining cylinder head bolts and remov-e . the
cylinder head. Do not pry betweea
RETAINING SOL T
6A527
(
.~3703475
& Ill
lJ
.J).fl)i
/SUPPORT
6531
,.J!J)'-i
ROCKER ARM
6564
/SPRING
tlil ,
6587
~W 1J;-~
l.l! PulJJo.
sHAFT
6563
PLUG
6572
ft
.,
/JI))ni/IJ
~o;SPRING
,
FRONT OF ENGINE
,
WASHER
6598
-....:_- PIN
........._372929-S
FIG. 12- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly -Typical

the cylinder head and blOck as the
gasket surfaces may become damqed.
Note: On 250-2V engines the inlet
and exhaust manifolds must be removed before the cylinder head can
be removed.
INSTALLATION
Note: On 250-2V engines the cylinder head is replaced first followed
by the exhaust manifold then the inlet
manifold. See page 8-27 for detail.
1. Clean the head and block gasket .surfaces. If the cylinder head was
removed for a gasket change, check
the flatness of the cylinder head and
block. Install guide studs at each
end of the cylinder block (Fig. 14).
..
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15 (i) 0 0
/AI" f~
11 ~.
FIG. 13- Valve Push Rod

Removal
2. Do not apply sealer to six
cylinder engine head gaskets.
Position the gasket over the guide
studs on the cylinder block.
3. Inspect the muffler inlet pipe
sealing ring and replace if necessary.
4. Lift the cylinder head over the
guides and slide it down carefully,
guiding the exhaust manifold studs
into the muffler inlet pipe.
5. Coat the thread of No. 13 bolt
with a small amount of water-resistant sealer. Install, but do not tighten
two bolts at opposite ends of the
head to hold the head and gasket in
position. Remove the guides and
install the remaining bolts.
Refer Fig.l5 for No. 13 bolt .
6. The cylinder head bolts are

tightened in three progressive steps.
Torque all the bolts in sequence (Fig.
15) to 55 ft-lbs, then to 65 ft-lbs,
and finally to specifications. After
the cylinder head bolts have been
torqued to specifications, the bolts
should not be disturbed.
of the push rods. Install the push
rods in their original bores, positioning the lower end of the rods into
the tappet sockets. Apply Lubriplate
to the valve stem tips and to the
rocker arm pads.
shaft assembly following steps 1 to
4 under Valve Rocker Arm Shaft
Installation.
Check the valve clearance, following the procedure outlined under
Valve Clearance (Part 8-1, Section
2).
9. Install the muffler inlet pipe

lock washers and retaining nuts.
Torque the nuts to specifications.
10. Connect the radiator upper
hose at the coolant outlet housing.
11. Replace the valve rocker arm
cover and torque to specifications.
12. Replace the emission control
7 / 16"-14x6" BOLT. CUT OFF HEAD, TAPER
END AND SLOT FOR SCREWDRIVER.
FIG. 14- Cylinder Head

Guide Studs
13. Position the distributor vacuum line and carburettor fuel inlet
line on the engine, then connect the
distributor vacuum line at the carburettor.
PART 8-2-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

1 14 Connect the accelerator rod
retracting spring. Connect the accelerator rod at the carburettor.

15. Connect the distributor vacuum line at the distributor. Connect
the carburettor fuel inlet line at the
fuel pump.
16. Connect the temperature sending unit wire at the sending unit.
Conrtect the spark plug wires. Be
sure the wires are forced aU the way
down into their sockets.
17. Fill and bleed the cooling
system.
18. Start the engine and check for
coolant and oil leaks.
DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove deposits from the
combustion chambers and valve
heads with a scraper and a wire
brush before removing the valves. Be
careful not to scratch the cylinder
head gasket surfaces.

ASSEMBLY
1. If the cylinder head is being
replaced, install the manifold assembly except on 2V installations. Lubricate the valve guides and valve stems
with engine oil. Apply Lubriplate to
the tip of the valve stems.
2." Install each valve (Fig. 17) in
the valve guide from which it was
removed or to which it was fitted.
Install a new stem seal on the valve.
3. Install the valve spring assembly over the valve. Install the spring
retainer.
4. Compress the spring and install
the retainer locks (Fig. 16).
5. Measure the assembled height
LOCKS\
6518
RETAINER~~~
6514
13'
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;p~~~~-..
6513
OIL SEAL
FIG. 15 -Cylinder Head Bolt

Torque Sequence
2. Compress the valve springs
(Fig. 16). Remove the valve retainer
locks and release the spring.
3. Remove the spring retainer,
stem seal, and valve. Discard the
valve stem seals. Identify all valve
parts. If the cylinder head is to be replaced, remove the manifold assembly.
~~~
#M~'
65~
INTAKE
VALVE
6~07
FIG. 17- Typical Valve

Assembly
FIG. 16- Compressing Valve

Spring - On Bench -Typical
of the valve spring from the surface

of the cylinder head spring pad to
the underside of the spring retainer
with dividers (Fig. 18).
6. Check the dividers against a
scale. If the assembled height is
greater than specifications, install the
necessary 0.030-inch thick spacer(s)
between the cylinder head spring pad
and the valve spring to bring the assembled height to the recommended
dimension. Do not install spacers unless necessary. Use of spacers in excess of recommendations will result
in overstressing the valve springs
8-29
and overloading the camshaft lobes

which would lead to spring breakage
and wom camshaft lobes.
UNDERSIDE OF
SPRING RETAINER
SURFACE OF
SPRING PAD
FIG. 18- Valve Spring

Assembled Height
VALVE SPRING, RETAINER
AND STEM SEAL
REPLACEMENT
Broken valve springs or defective
valve stem seals and retainer may be
replaced without removing the cylinder head, provided damage to the
valve or valve seat has not occurred.
1. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the crankcase ventilation regulator valve from the valve rocker arm
cover. Remove the fuel and vacuum
pipes then remove the valve rocker
arm cover. Remove the applicable
spark plug.
2. Loosen the valve rocker arm
shaft support bolts 2 turns at a time,
in sequence, until the valve spring
pressure is relieved. Remove both
valve push rods of the cylinder to
be serviced.
3. Install an air line with an
adapter in the spark plug hole.
4. Tighten the retaining bolts just
enough to seat the rocker arm shaft
supports on the cylinder head. Push
the rocker arm to one side and secure
it in this position (Fig. 19). To move
the rocker arm on either end of the
shaft, it will be necessary to remove
the retaining pin and spring washer
and slide the rocker arm off the shaft.
5. Turn on the air supply. Air
pressure may turn the crankshaft until the piston reaches the bottom of
its stroke. Using the valve spring
compression tool shown in (Fig. 19)
compress the valve and remove the
valve spring retainer locks, the spring
retainer and the valve spring.
If air pressure fails to bold the valve
in the closed position during this operation, it can be presumed that the
valve is not seating or is damaged.
H this condition occurs, remove the
8-30
cylinder head for further inspection.
6. Remove the valve stem seal
(Fig. 20). If air pressure has forced
the piston to the bottom of the cyl
inder, any removal of air pressure
will allow the valve(s) to faD into the
cylinder. A rubber band, tape or
string wrapped around the end of the
valve stem will prevent this condition
and will still allow enough travel to
check the valve for binds.
FIG. 19- Compressing Valve

Spring - In Chassis
7. Install a new valve stem seal.
Position the spring over the valve.
Install the spring retainer and sleeve.
Compress the valve spring and install
the valve spring retainer locks.
of the push rod, the valve and push
rod ends of the rocker arm, and the
valve stem tip. Remove the rocker
arm shaft and install the push rod(s),
making sure the lower end of the
rod is positioned in the valve lifter
push rod cup.
9. Remove the wire securing the
valve rocker arm and slide the rocker arm into position. If an end valve
rocker arm was removed, slide it
into position on the shaft and install
the spring washer and retaining pin.
FIG. 20- Valve Stem Seal

Removal
GROUP 8- ENGINE
Tum off the air and remove the air
line and adapter. Install the spark
plug and spark plug wire.
10. Jnstall the rocker arm shaft
by following the instructions under
Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly Installation.
11. Replace the emission control
12. Repjace the fuel pipe and
vacuum lines.
13. In.stall the valve rocker arm
cover.
CYLINDER FRONT COVER
AND TIMING CHAIN
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system and
the crankcase. Disconnect the radiator upper hose at the coolant outlet
housing and the radiator lower hose
at the water pump. On a car with
automatic transmission. disconnect
the transmission oil cooler lines from
the radiator.
2. Remove the radiator. Remove
the drive belt, fan and pulley. Using
tool6306 AG. Remove the crankshaft
damper.
3. Remove the cylinder front cover and gasket.
4. Rotate the crankshaft in a
clockwise direction (as viewed from
the front) to take up the slack on
the left side of the chain.
5. Establish a reference point on
the block and measure from this
point to the chain. Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to
take up the slack on the right side
of the chain. Force the left side of
the chain out with the fingers and
measure the distance hetween the
reference point and the chain. The
deflection is the difference between
the two measurements. If the deflection exceeds t inch, replace the
timing chain and sprockets.
6. Crank the engine until the timin~ marks are aligned as shown in
(Fig. 21). Remove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt and washer.
Slide both sprockets and timing
chain forward and remove them as
an assembly (Fig. 22).
7. Remove the oil pan and related
parts.
FRONT OIL SEAL
REP'LACEMENT
It is good practice to replace the
oil seal each time the cylinder front
cover is removed.
1. Drive out the oil seal with a
pin punch. Clean the recess in the
cover
2. Coat a new seal with grease

and install the seal. Drive the seal in
until it is fully seated in the recess.
TIMING MARKS
A 1370-B
FIG. 21 -Aligning Timing

Marks
(Fig. 23). Check the seal after installation to be sure the spring is
properly positioned in the seal.
FIG. 22 - Timing Chain and

Sprockets Removal
and inspection procedures. Clean the
crankshaft damper following the referenced procedures.
INSTALLATION
1. Oil the timing chain. Position
the sprockets and timing chain on
the camshaft and crankshaft. Be sure
the timing marks on the sprockets
and chain are positioned as shown in
FIG. 23 - Crankshaft Front Oil

Seal Replacement
8-31
PART 8-2-, 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

(Fig. 21). Install the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt and washer.
Torque the bolt to specifications.
2. Clean the cylinder front and
the gasket surface of the cylinder
block. Apply oil-resistant sealer to
a new cylinder front cover gasket and
position the gasket on the cylinder
front cover. Install the cylinder front
cover using the tool shown in Fig.
24. Torque the retaining bolts to
specifications.
FIG. 24- Cylinder Front Cover

3. Lubricate the hub of the crankshaft damper with Lubriplate to
prevent damage to the seal during
installation or initial engine start.
Using tool6306 AG, install the crankshaft damper. Torque the retaining
bolt to specifications.
4. Install the oil pan and related
parts.
5. Install the fan, pulley and drive
belt. Adjust the drive belt.
6. Install the radiator. Connect
the radiator upper and lower hoses.
7. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the
proper quantity and grade of engine
oil.
ignition timing. Operate the engine
at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks.
CAMSHAn
The camshaft and related parts
are shown in Fig. 25.
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system and the
crankcase. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the radiator hoses
from the coolant outlet housing and
the water pump. Remove the radiator. Remove the grille.
3. Disconnect the accelerator rod
accelerator rod from the carburettor.
WASHER
6278
(~
t
371643-S
CAMSHAFT
FIG. 25 -Camshaft and Related Parts

4. Disconnect the fuel inlet line
and the distributor vacuum line from
the carburettor.
5. Disconnect the muffler inlet
pipe frotn the exhaust manifold.
Pull the muffler inlet pipe iown.
Remove the gasket.
6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line from the distributor. Disconnect the carburettor fuel inlet
line from the fuel pump. Remove
the lines as an assembly.
7. Disconnect the spark plug wires
from the spark plugs and the coil
high tension lead at the coil. Remove
the distributor cap and spark plug
wires as an assembly. Disconnect
the primary wire from the coil and
remove it from the retaining clip on
the cylinder head.
8. Disconnect the engine temperature sending unit wire from the
sending unit. Disconnect the flexible
fuel line from the fuel tank line
and plug the line. Remove the distributor, the fuel pump, and the oil
filter.
9. Remove the crankcase vent hose,
regulatQr val~e, valve rocker arm
cover and cylinder head by following
steps 8 through 11 under Cylinder
Head Removal- page 8-28.
10. Using a magnet, remove the
valve lifters and keep them in order
so that they can be installed in their
original location (Fig. 26).
11. Lqosen and remove the drive
belt, fan and pulley. Remove the
crankshaft damper using tool 6306
AG.
12. Remove: the oil level dipstick.
Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil
pump and inlet tube assembly.
13. Remove the cylinder front
cover and gasket. Remove the crankshaft front oil slinger.
14. Push the camshaft toward the
rear of the engine. Install a dial
indicator so that the indicator point
is on the camshaft sprocket cap
screw (Fig. 27). Zero the dial indicator. Position a large screw driver
between the camshaft sprocket and
the block. Pull the camshaft forward
and release it. Compare the dial

indicator reading with specifications.
If the end play is excessive, replace
the thrust plate.
15. Remove the dial indicator.
Remove the timing chain and
sprockets following steps 4 and 5
under "Cylinder Front Cover and
Timing Chain Removal."
16. Remove the camshaft thrust
plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling it toward the front of
the engine. Use caution to avoid
damaging the journals and lobes.
etm -z
Magn;l
FIG. 26 -Valve Lifter
Removal
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the oil passage that feeds
the rocker arm shaft by blowing
compressed air into the opening in
the block. Oil the camsh:tft journals and apply Luhriplate to all the
camshaft lobes. Carefully slide the
camshaft through the bearings.
2. Install the thrust plate with
the oil groove toward the rear of
the engine and torque the retaining
bolts to specifications. Replace the
crankshaft front oil seal.
3. Follow steps l, 2 and 3 under
Cylinder Front Cover and Timing
Chain Installation and install the
sprockets and timing chain, oil slinger, cylinder front cover and crankshaft damper.
4. Clean the oil pump inlet tube
screen, and oil the pan and block
gasket surfaces. Prime the oil pump
8-32
and install the oil pump inlet tube
and oil pump and the oil pan and
related parts. Install thP. oil level
jipstick.
5. Install the fan and fan pulley
and drive belt. Adjust the belt tension . . Install the radiator and the
grille.
6. Dip the valve lifter foot in Lubriplate. Coat the remainder of each
valve lifter with engine oil. Install
the valve lifters in their original
bores.
7. Install the cylinder head, push
rods and the valve rocker arm shaft
assembly by following steps 1 to
9 under Cylinder Head Installation.
8. Using a new gasket, install the
fuel pump and connect the flexible
fuel ,Jine. Install the oil filter.
9. Position the No. 1 piston at
TDC after the compression stroke.
t osition the distributor in the block
with the rotor at the No. 1 firing
position and the breaker points open.
Install the distributor hold down
clamp.
10. Connect the engine temperature sen.ding unit wire. Connect the
coil primary wire. Install the distributor cap. Connect the spark plug
wires and the coil high tension lead.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
and adjust the ignition t1ming. Connect the distributor vacuum line to
the distributor. Check for coolant
and oil leaks. Adjust the engine idle
speed and the idle fuel mixture.
CAMSHAn REAR BEARING
BORE PLUG REPLACEMENT
1. On a car with a manual-shift
transmission, slide the transmissi(ln
to the rear and :.:emove the clutch
pressure plate and disc following the
procedure in Group 5.
On a car with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and
converter housing following the procedure in Group 7.
2. Remove the flywheel retaining
bolts and remove the flywheel and
engine rear cover plate.
3. Drill a t -inch hole in the camshaft rear bearing bore plug and
use a suitable tool to remove the
plug (Fig. 28).
FIG. 28 -Camshaft Rear
Bearing Bore Plug

Removal
FIG. 27 -Camshaft End
Play
11. Install the carburettor fuel
Connect the distributor
inlet line
vacuum line to the carburettor.
12. Install the radiator and connect the radiator upper and lower
hoses.
13. Connect the accelerator rod
retracting spring. Connect the accelerator rod at the carburettor.
14. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase.
4. Clean out the plug bore recess

thoroughly.
5. Coat the flange of a new plug
with oil resistant sealer and install
it with the flange facing out and
slightly below the chamfer in the
bore (Fig. 29).
6. Install the engine rear cover
plate, apply oil-resistant sealer to
the flywheel bolts and install the
flywheel.
On a car with a manual-shift
transmission, install the clutch pressure plate, disc, and transmission
following the procedure in Group 5.
On a car with automatic transmission install the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7.
FIG. 29 -Camshaft Rear
Bearing Bore Plug

Installation
HYDRAULIC VALVE LinER
REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the cylinder head and
related parts following the procedure
under Cylinder Head Removal.
2. Using a magnet, remove the
valve lifters (Fig. 26). Place the lifters in a rack so they can be installed
in their original positions.
If the lifters are stuck in their
bores by excessive varnish or gum, it
may be necessary to use a plier-type
tool to remove the lifters . Rotate the
lifter back and forth to loosen the
gum and varnish which may have
formed on the lifter.
The internal parts of each hydraulic valve lifter assembly are
matched sets. Do not intermix the
parts. Keep the assemblies intact
until they are to be cleaned.
3. Install new (or cleaned) hydraulic valve lifters through the push
rod opening with a magnet (Fig.
26).
4. Install the cylinder head and
related parts.
DISASSEMBLY
Each valve lifter is a matched assembly; therefore, the parts are not
interchangeable. Disassemble and assemble each lifter carefully, keeping
the assemblies in proper sequence so
they will be installed in their original bores.
1. Grasp the lock ring with
needle nose pliers to release it from
the groove. It may be necessary to
depress the plunger to fully release
the lock ring.
2. Remove the push rod cup,
plunger and spring.
3. Invert the plunger assembly
and remove the check valve retainer
by carefully prying up on it with a
8-33
PART 82-, 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

screwdriver. Remove the check valve
and spring.
CLEANING AND INSPECI'ION

ASSEMBLY
A typical hydraulic valve lifter
assembly is shown in Fig. 30.
LIFTER ASSEMBLY-6500
FIG. 30-Typical Valve

Lifter Assembly
1. Place the plunger upside down
on a clean work bench.
2. Place the check valve in position over the oil hole on the bottom
of the plunger. Set the check valve
spring on top of the check valve.
3. Position the check valve retainer over the check valve and spring
and push the retainer down into
place on the plunger.
4. Place the plunger spring and
then the plunger (open end up) into
the tappet body.
S. Place the push rod seat in the
plunger.
6. Depress the plunger and position the closed end of the lock ring
in the lifter body groove. Release the
plunger; then depress it again to
fully seat the lock ring.

Refer to page 8~18 for the cleaning
MAIN AND CONNECTING

ROD BEARING REPLACEM~NT
The main bearing inserts are
selective fit. Do not file or lap
bearing caps or use bearing shims
tO obtain the proper bearing clearance.
Selective fit main bearings are
available for service in standard
sizes and 0.002 inch undersize.
Standard bearings are divided into

two sizes and are identified by a
daub of red or blue paint. Refer to
the Parts Catalog for the available
sizes. Red marked bearings increase
the clearance; blue marked bearings
decrease the clearance. Undersize
bearings, which are not selective fit,
are available for use on journals
that have been refinished.
MAIN BEARING
1. Drain the crankcase. Remove
the oil leyel dipstick. Remove the oil
pan and related parts.
2. Remove the oil pump inlet
tube assembly and the oil pump.
3. Replace one bearing at a time,
leaving the other bearings securely
fastened . Remove the main bearing
cap to which new bearings are to be
installed.
4. Insert the upper bearing removal tool in the oil hole in the
crankshaft.
S. Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to force
the bearing out of the block.
6. Clean the crankshaft journal.
When replacing standard bearings
with new bearings, it is good practice to first try to obtain the proper
clearance with two blue bearing
halves.
7. To install the upper main bearing, place the plain end of the bearing over the shaft on the locking
tang side of the block and partially
install the bearing so that the tool
can be inserted in the oil hole in
the crankshaft. With the tool positioned in the oil hole in the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft in the
opposite direction of engine rotation
until the bearing seats itself. Remove
the tool.
8. Install the cap bearing.
9. Support the crankshaft so that
its weight will not compress the
Plastigage used in Step 10 and provide an erroneous reading. Position
a jack so that it will bear against the
counterweight adjoining the bearing
which is being checked.
10. Place a piece of Plastigage on
the bearing surface the full width of
the bearing cap and about 1/.! inch
off center (Fig. 31).
11. Install the cap and torque the
bolts to specifications. Do not turn
the crankshaft while the Plastigage
is in place.
12. Remove the cap. Using the
Plastigage scale, check the width of
the Plastigage. When checking the
PLACE Plastigage FULL

WIDTH OF JOURNAL
ABOUT Y4 INCH OFF
CENTER
CHECK WIDTH OF
Plastigage
--~-
ll'
INSTALLING
Plastigage
0.0015"
CLEARANCE
M'ASO.,NG
Plastig age
FIG. 31 -Installing and
Measuring PlastigageEngine Installed

width of the Plastigage, check at the
widest point in order to get the minimum clearance. Check at the narrowest point in order to get the maximum clearance. The difference between the two readings is the taper.
13. If the clearance is less than
the specified limits, try two red bearing halves or a combination of red
and blue, depending upon the condition .
If the clearance exceeds specified
limits, try 0.002 inch undersize
bearings in combination with blue
or red bearings. The b<'aring clearance must be within specified limits.
If 0.002 inch undersize main bearings are used on more than one
journal, be sure they are all installed
on the same side (cap or cylinder
block) of the crankshaft.
If the standard and 0.002 inch
undersize bearings do not bring the
clearance within the desired limits,
refinish the crankshaft journal; then
install undersize bearings.
14. If the rear main bearing is replaced, replace the lower oil seal in
the rear main bearing cap as follows:
Remove and discard the rear seal.
If there is evidence of oil seal leakage, the upper half of the oil seal
must also be replaced to assure satisfactory sealing.
Clean the mating surfaces of the
block and rear main bearing cap,
and the rear journal oil seal groove.
Preform the new seal by hand to
the approximate radius of the cap.
Insert the seal in the oil seal
groove, seating the center of the seal
first with the seal extending equally
on both ends. Press the seal down
8-34
firmly with the thumb at the center
of the seal, then press both ends of
the seal into the groove working
from the ends to the center.
Position the seal forming tool as
shown in Fig. 32 and complete the
seal installation. After installation,
cut the ends of the seal flush.
Apply a thin coating of oil resistant sealer to the rear main bearing
cap at the rear of the top mating
surface (Fig. 32 ). Do not apply
sealer to the area forward of the
oil slinger groove.
The upper oil seal in the block
cannot be replaced with the crankshaft installed.
15. After the bearing has been
fitted, apply a light coat of engine
oil to the journal and bearings, then
install the bearing cap. Torque the
cap bolts to specifications.
16. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining bearings that require replacement.
17. If the thrust bearing cap
(No. 5 main beating) has been removed, install it as follows:
Install the thrust bea,ring cap with
the bolts finger-tight. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of the upper half of the bearing
FIG. 32 -Seal to Rear
Bearing Cap Installation

(Fig. 47). Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap
to the rear (Fig. 47). This will align
the thrust surfaces of both halves of
the bearing. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Torque the
cap bolts to specification.
screen. Prime the oil pump; then
install the oil pump and the inlet
tube assembly.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
19. Position the oil pan gaskets on
the oil pan. Position the oil pan front
seal on the cylinder front cover.
Position the oil pan rear seal on the
rear main bearing cap. Install the oil
pan and related parts. Install the oil
level dipstick.
20. Fill the crankcase. Start the
engine and check for oil pressure.
Operate the engine at fast idle and
check for oil leak~.
CONNECTING ROD BEARING
1. Follow steps 1 and 2 under
Main Bearing Replacement.
2. Turn the crankshaft until the
connecting rod to which new bearings are to be fitted is down. Remove
the connecting rod cap. Remove the
bearing inserts from the rod and
cap.
3. Be sure the bearing inserts and
the bearing bore in the connecting
rod and cap are clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the
bearing and cause a failure.
5. Install the bearing inserts in
the connecting rod and cap with the
tangs fitting in the slot provided.
6. Pull the connecting rod assembly down firmly on the crankshaft
journal.
7. Place a . piece of Plastigage on
the lower bearing surface, the full
width of the cap and about 1-4 inch
off center.
8. Install the cap and torque the
connecting rod nuts to specification.
Do not tum the crankshaft while
the Plastigage Is in place.
9. Remove the cap; then, using
the Plastigage scale, check the
width of the Plastigage. When
checking the width of the Plastigage,
check at the widest point in order
to get the minimum clearance.
Check at the narrowest point in
order to get the maximum clearance.
The difference between the two
readings is the taper.
10. If the clearance is less than
the specified limits, try two red bearing halves or a combination of red
and blue depending upon the condition.
If the clearance exceeds the specified limits, try 0.002 inch undersize bearings in combination with
blue "or red bearings. The bearing
clearance must be within specified
Umits.
If proper clearance cannot be
achieved with standard or 0.002

undersize bearings, the crankshaft
will have to be ground undersize and
fitted with undersize bearings.

After the bearing has been fitted, clean and apply a light coat of
engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the connecting rod cap.
11. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining connecting rods that require new bearings.
12. Follow steps 18 through 20
under Main Bearing Replacement.
NOTCH TO FRONT OF ENGINE
FIG. 33 .-Piston
Installation
CLEANING AND INSPECDON
Refer to page 8 -18 for the cleaning
PISTONS AND
CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
the crankcase.
2. Refer to Cylinder Head Removal and remove the cylinder
head and related parts.
parts. Remove the oil pump inlet
tube and the oil pump.
piston to be removed is at the bottom of its travel and place a cloth
on the piston head to collect the cuttings. Remove any ridge and/ or deposits from the upper end of the
cylinder bores. Remove the cylinder
ridge with a ridge cutter. Follow the
instructions furnished by the tool
manufacturer. Never cut into the
ring travel area in excess of 1/32
inch when removing ridges.
5. Make sure all the connecting
rod caps are marked so that they
can be installed in their original positions. Remove the connecting rod
cap.
6. Push the connecting rod and
piston assembly out the top of the
cylinder with the handle end of a
hammer. Avoid damage to the crankpin or the cylinder wall when removing the piston and rod.
8-35
INSTALLATION
and the oil pan and block
gasket surfaces.
2. Oil the piston rings, pistons and
scr~en,
FIG. 34-Typical
Connecting Rod Side
Clearance
cylinder walls with light engine oil.
3. Be sure to install the pistons in
the same cylinders from which they
were removed, or to which they were
fitted. The connecting rod and bearing caps are numbered from 1 to 6
beginning at the front of the engine.
The numbers on the connecting rod
and bearing cap must be on the same
side when installed in the cylinder
bore. If a connecting rod is ever
transposed from one block or cylin
der to another, new bearings should
be fitted and the connecting rod
should be numbered to correspond
with the new cylinder.
4. Make sure the ring gaps are
properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Install a piston
ring compressor on the piston and
push the piston in with a hammer
handle until it is slightly below the
top of the cylinder (Fig. 33). Be
sure to guide the connecting rods to
avoid damaging the crankshaft journals. Install the piston with the notch
in the piston head toward the front
of the engine.
5. Check the clearancP. of each
bearing following the procedure
und"r "Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement."
6. After the bearings have been
oil to the journals and bearings.
7. Turn the crankshaft throw to
the bottom of its stroke, then push
the piston all the way down until the
connecting rod bearing seats on the
crankshaft journal. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to
specifications.
8. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod
side clearance on each crankshaft
journal (Fig. 34).
~
'
r
INSERT
ERED PILOT
PISTON PIN
Tool- T68P-6 J 35 . A
Cup Detail J
FIG. 35 -
Removing Piston Pin
9. Prime the oil pump. Install the

oil pump and the oil pump inlet
tube. Install the oil pan and related
parts.
10. Install the cylinder head by
following steps 1 through 17 under
Cylinder Head Installation.
11. Fill the crankcase.
for oil pressure. Operate the engine
at fast idle and check for oil and
coolant leaks.
13. Check and adjust the ignition
timing, engine idle speed and the
fuel mixture.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remvve the bearing inserts
from the connecting rod and cap.
2. Mark the pistons and pins to
assure assembly with the same rod
and installation in the same cylinders from which they were removed.
3. Remove the piston pin from
the piston and connecting rod usinl
the tool shown in Fig. 35. Remove
the piston rings.
CLEANING AND INSPECJ'ION

Refer to page 818 for the cleaning
FIG. 36 -Typical Piston,
Connecting Rod and

Related Parts
REPAIRS
To fit new pistons, pins or rings,
refer to page 8-14
ASSEMBLY
The piston, connecting rod and
related parts are shown in Fig. 36.
Check the fit of a new piston In the
cyUnder bore before assembUog the
piston and piston pin to the connectIng rod.
The piston pin bore of a connect
ing rod and the diameter of the piston pin must be within specifications. Refer to page 8-69.
1. Apply a light coat of engine
oil to all parts. Assemble the piston
to the connecting rod with the on
squirt hole In the connectblg rod
and the indentation in the piston
positioned as shown in F1g. 37.
2. Start the piston pin in the piston
and connecting rod (this may require
a very light tap with a mallet). Using
an Arbor Press, press the piston pin
through the piston and connecting
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-36
rod until the pin is centered in the
piston.
3. Check the end gap of all piston
rings. It must be within specifications. Follow the instructions contained on the piston ring package
and install the piston rings.
4. Check the ring side clearance
of the compression rings with a feeler gauge. Refer to Fitting Piston
Rings on page 8-14.
5. Be sure the bearing inserts and
the bearing bore in the connecting
rod and cap Me clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the
bearing and cause a failure. Install
the bearing inserts in the connecting
rod and cap with the tangs fitting
in the slots provided.
FLYWHEEL
REMOVAL
1. On a manual-shift transmission, remove the tran.>mission, dutch
pressure plate and disc, following
the procedures in Group S. Do not
drain the transmission.
On a car with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and
converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. Do not drain the
transmission.
l. Remove the flywheel retaining
bolts and remove the flywheel.
l. On a manual-shift transmission,
install the clutch pressure plate, disc,
and the transmission following ...the
procedures in Group S.
On a car with automatic transmission, install the converter housing
and transmission following the procedure in Group 7. It is not necessary to adjust the transmission, when
it bas been removed only for flywheel removal.
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING

REPLACEMENT
Inspection procedures are outlined
under Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection on page 8-17.
1. Remove the transmission, clutch
pressure plate, and disc following the
procedures in Group S.
2. Using suitable tools, remove the
pilot bearing (Fig. 38).
3. Coat the pilot bearing bore in
the crankshaft with a small quantity
of wheel bearing lubricant. Avoid
using too milch lubricant as it may
be thrown onto the clutch disc when
the clutch revolves.
4. Using suitable tool install the
pilot service bearing (Fig. 39).
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING.
CLEANING AND INSPECDON

REPAIRS
To check flywheel face runout,
refer to page 8-10.
FIG. 39 -Typical Clutch

Pilot Service Bearing
Installation
3. Operate the engine at fast idle,
and cht!ck for oil leaks. If oil leaks
are evident, perform the necessary
repairs to correct the leakage. Check
the oil level and fill the crankcase if
necessary.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
1. Drain the crankcase.
l. Remove the oil level dipstick
and the flywheel housing inspection
cover.
3. Remove the stabilizer bar.
4. Remove the oil pan and gasket.
5. Remove the oil pump inlet
tube and screen assembly.
Refer to Page 8-19 for the
cieaning and inspection procedures.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the ~ywheel on the
INSTALLATION
1. Clean and install the oil pump
FRONT OF ENGINE
FIG. 38 -Typical Clutch

Pilot Bearing Removal
5. Install the clutch pressure plate,
disc, and the transmission following
the procedures in Group 5.
INDENTATION
NOTCH
FIG. 37-Typical Piston
and Connecting Rod

Assembly
crankshaft flange. Apply oil-resistant
sealer to the retaining bolts. Install
and torque the bolts in sequence
across from each other to specifications.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT

1. Place a drip pan under the
filter. Unscrew the filter from the
adapter fitting. Clean the adapter
filter recess.
l. Coat the gasket on the replacement filter with oil. Position the filter
on the adapter fitting. Hand tighten
the filter unfil the gasket contacts
the adapter face, then advance it lh
turn.
FIG. 40 -Oil Pump Inlet
Tube Installed
PART 82-, 200, 250 CJ.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

5. Hold the oil pan in place
against the block and install a bolt,
finger-tight, on each side of the oil
pan. Install the remaining bolts.
Torque the bolts from the center
outward in each direction to specifications.
6. Install the stabilizer bar.
~
.........
INLET TUBE
ASSEMBLY
GASKET
34806 5
6622~
6626
t-34806-S
20346
204265
-Typical Oil
Pump Assembly
FIG. 42
-Oil Pan Gaskets

and Seals Installed
FIG. 41
inlet tube and screen assembly (Fig.

40).
2. Clean the gasket surfaces of the
block and oil pan. The oil pan has a
two-piece gasket. Coat the block surface and the oil pan gasket surface with oil-resistant sealer. Position
the oil pan gaskets on the cylinder
block (Fig. 41).
3. Position the oil pan front seal on
the cylinder front cover (Fig. 41).
Be sure the tabs on the seal are

over the oil pan gasket.
4. Position the oil pan rear seal on
the rear main bearing cap (Fig. 41).
Be sure the tabs pn the seal are

over the oil pan gasket.
7. Install the oil level dipstick.

Fill the crankcase with the proper
grade and quantity of engine oil.
Operate the engine and check for
oil leaks.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pan and related parts as outlined under Oil
Pan Removal.
2. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts and remove the oil pump,
gasket, and intermediate drive shaft.
INSTALLATION
1. Prime the oil pump by filling
either the inlet or outlet port with
engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to
distribute the oil within the pump
body.
2. Position the intermediate drive
shaft into the distributor socket.
8-37

pump housing. Insert the intermediate drive shaft :nto the oil pump.
Install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the
pump into position if it will not seat
readHy. The drive shaft hex may be
misaligned with the distributor shaft.
To align, rotate the intermediate
drive shaft into a new position.
Torque the oil pump retaining
screws to specifications.
parts as outlined under Oil Pan Installation.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the oil inlet tube from
the oil pump and remove the gasket.
2. Remove the cover retaining
screws, and remove the cover. Remove the inner rotor and shaft assembly, and remove the outer race.
3. Insert a self-threading sheet
metal screw of the proper diameter
into the oil pressure relief valve
chamber cap and pull the cap out of
the chamber. Remove the spring and
plunger.
for
Refer to Page 8'-19
the cleaning and inspection procedures.
ASSEMBLY
The oil pump assembly is shown
in Fig. 42.
1. Oil all parts thoroughly.
2. Install the oil pressure relief
valve plunger, spring, and a new cap.
3. Install the outer race, and the
inner rotor and shaft assembly. Be
sure the Identification mark on the
rotor and on the outer race both
face to the bottom of the pump. The
inner rotor and shaft, and the outer
race are serviced as an assembly.
One part should not be replaced
without replacing the other. InstaD
the cover and torque the cover retaining screws to specifications.
4. Position a new gasket and the
oil inlet tube on the oil pump and
install the retaining bolts.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-38
EJ
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Remove the bonnet.
l. Drain the cooling system and
the crankcase.
3. Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the battery ground cable at
the cylinder head, and at the battery.
Disconnect the radiator upper hose
at the water outlet housing and the
radiator lower hose at the water
pump. On a car with automatic
transmission disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator.
4. Remove the radiator. Remove
the drive belt, fan, and pulley.
5. On a car equipped with air
conditioning remove the compressor,
leaving hoses attached. Place a suitably sized sheet of hardboard or
similar material between the air conditioning heat exchanger and the
engine to prevent accidental damage
occurring to the exchanger.
6. Disconnect the heater hoses
from the water pump. Disconnect
the alternator wires from the alternator, the starter cable from the
starter, the accelerator rod and the
choke control cable from the carburettt>r.
A2017-A
FIG. 43 -Engine Lifting
Hook
7. Disconnect the flexible fuel
line at the fuel tank line and plug
the fuel tank line.
8. Disconnect the coil primary
wire at the coil. Disconnect the oil
pressure and the water temperature
sending unit wires at the sending
units.
9. On 250-2V engines remove the
inlet and exhaust manifolds as des
cribed on page 8-27.
10. Remove the starter.
transmission, disconnect the clutch
slave cylinder from the clutch housing and suitably support it clear of
the transmission.
11. Raise the car. Remove the flywheel or converter housing upper retaining bolts through the access
holes in the underbody.
12.. Disconnect the muffler inlet
pipe at the exhaust manifold. Loosen
the inlet pipe clamp and slide it off
the support bracket on the engine.
Disconnect the engine right and left
mount at the underbody bracket. Remove the flywheel or converter housing cover.
transmission, remove the flywheel
housing lower retaining bolts.
On a car with automatic transmis
sion, disconnect the converter from
the flywheel. Remove the converter
housing lower retaining bolts.
Lower the car. Support the
transmission and flywheel or converter housing with a jack.
13. Attach the engine lifting hook
(Fig. 43). Carefully lift the engine
out of rne engine compartment. Install the engme on a work stand.
INSTALLATION
4. Remove the engine lifting

hooks. Install the flywheel or con
verter housing upper retaining bolts.
5. On 250-2V engines install the
starter motor and the exhaust and
inlet manifolds as described on page 827
6. Remove the jack from the
transmission. Raise the car.
7. Remove the guide pin and install the flywheel or converter housing lower retaining bolts.
On a car with automatic transmission, attach the converter to the
flywheel and torque the retaining
nuts to specifications.
8. Install the flywheel orconverter
housing dust cover.
transmission, install the clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket. Connect
the clutch retracting spring.
9. Install the engine left and right
mount to the underbody bracket. Install the sediment bowl on the fuel
pump.
10. Remove the plug from the fuel
tank line and connect the flexible
fuel line to the fuel tank line. Install
the exhaust manifold to muffler inlet
pi~ retaining lock washers and nuts.
Position the inlet pipe clamp on the
support bracket on the engine and
tighten the clamp.
1. Install guide pins in the fly

wheel or converter housing bolt holes
in the rear of the engine. Place a
new gasket over the studs of the exhaust manifold.
l. Carefully lower the engine into
the engine compartment.
3. Make sure the studs on the ex
haust manifold are aligned with the
boles in the muffler inlet pipe and
the guide pins in the block engage
the holes in the flywheel housing.
On a car with automatic transmission, start the converter pilot into
the crankshaft.
transmission, start the transmission
main drive gear into the clutch disc.
It may be necessary to adjust the
position of the transmission in relation to the engine if the input shaft
will not enter the clutch disc. U the
eDgine lump up after tbe shaft
enten, tum the Cl'llllksWt slowly
(tnmsmisslon la lear) undl the sWt
spUnes mesh with the clutch disc
5pUnes.
11 . Lower the car. Connect the

oil pressure and the engine temperature sending unit wires. Connect
the coil primary wire. Connect the
accelerator rod. Connect and adjust
the choke control cable.
12. Install the starter motor. Connect the starter cable. Connect the
alternator wires. Connect the battery
ground cable.
13. Remove the hardboard and
install the air conditioning compressor. Install the pulley, fan, and
drive belt. Adjust the drive belt
tension. Install the radiator. Connect the radiator upper and lower
hoses. Fill and bleed the cooling
system. Fill the crankcase with the
proper grade and quantity of engine
oil.
14. Install and adjust the bonnet.
15. Operate the engine at fast idle
and check all gaskets and hose connections for leaks.
On a car with automatic transmission, check the transmission control linkage (Group 7).
PART 8-2-
rJ
200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
8-39

CLUTCH POLOT BEARINu
7600
MAIN BEARING CAPS
BOLT-6345A
A2230-C
FIG. 44-Typical 200 & 250 Six Crankshaft

To perform the operations in this
section, it will be necessary to remove the engine from the car and
install it on a work stand.
must be torqued (refer to Page 8-70
for torque specifications), oil the
threads with light weight engine oil.
Do not oU threads that require ~H
resistant or water-resistant sealer.
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
The crankshaft and related parts
are shown in Fig. 44.
1. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolts and remove the fan belt.
Remove the oil level dipstick.
2. Remove the accessory drive
pulley (if so equipped). Remove
the crankshaft damper retaining bolt
and washer. Remove the crankshaft
vibration damper using tool 6306
AG.
cover.
4. Check the timing chain deflection, then remove the timing
chain and sprockets by following
steps 4 and 5 under Cylinder Front
Cover and Timing Chain Removal.
5. Invert the engine on the work

stand. Remove the flywheel. Remove
the oil pan and gasket. Remove the
oil pump.
6. Make sure all bearing caps
(main and connecting rod) are
marked so that they can be installed
in their original locations. Turn the
crankshaft until the connecting rod
from which the cap is being removed
is down. Remove the connecting rod
cap. Push the connecting rod and
piston assembly up in the cylinder.
Repeat for the remaining caps.
7. Remove the main bearing caps.
8. Carefully lift the crankshaft
out of the block so that the thrust
bearing surfaces are not damaged.
Handle the cranuhaft with care to
avoid possible fracture or daDulp
to the fioisbed surfaces.
and inspection procedures. Be sure
the oil seal surfaces on the crankshaft and crankshaft damper are
properly cleaned.
REPAIRS
To refinish journals, dress minor
imperfections, etc., refer to Page 8-1 4

Section 2.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the rear journal oil
seal from the block and rear main
bearing cap.
l. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing
caps.
3. Remove the connecting rod
bearing inserts from the connecting
rods and caps.
4. Clean the rear journal oil seal
grooves. Install a new rear journal
oil seal in the block (Fig. 45) and
rear main bearing cap (Fig. 32) .After
installation, cut the ends of the seals
ftush.
5. Apply a thin coating of oil resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating
surface (Fig. 32) . Do not apply sealer to the ana forward of the oU
Jlla&er groove.
6. If the crankshaft main bearing
journals have been refinished to a
definite undersize, install the correct
undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are
clean. Foreign material under the in-
8-40
GROUP 8- ENGINE
PLACE Plostigoge FULL
WIDTH OF JOURNAL
ABOUT '/4 INCH
OFF CENTER
CHECK WIDTH
OF Plostigoge
PLASTIGAGE
A1023-A
FIG. 46 -Installing
and
Measuring PlastigageEngine on Work Stand
17. lnstail a dial indicator so that
the contact point rests against the
crankshaft flange and the indicator
axis is parallel to the crankshaft axis
~
A1397-B
-Rear Oil Seal to

Block Installation
FIG. 45
serts will distort the bearina and

cause a failure.
7. Place the upper main bearing
inserts in position in the bores with
the tang fitting in the slot provided.
8. Install the lower main bearing
inserts in the bearing caps.
9. Carefully lower the crankshaft
into place. Be careful not to damage
the bearing surfaces.
10. Check the clearance of each
main bearing. Place a piece of
Plastigage on the crankshaft journal
the full width of the journal and
about ! inch off centre (Fig. 46).
Follow steps 11 through 13 under
Main Bearing Replacement.
Install all the bearing caps, except
the thrust bearing cap No.5 bearing.
Be sure that the main bearing
caps are installed in their original locations. Torque the bearing
12. Install the thrust bearing cap
with the bolts finger-tight.
13. Pry the crankshaft forward
against the thrust surface of the
upper half of the bearing (Fig. 47).
14. Hold the crankshaft forward
and pry the thrust bearing cap to the
rear (Fig. 47). This will align the
thrust surfaces of both halves of the
bearing.
IS. Retain the forward pressure
on the crankshaft. Torque the cap
16. Force the crankshaft toward
the rear of the engine.
18. Zero the dial indicator. Push

the crankshaft forward and note the
reading on the dial.
19. If the end play exceeds specifications, replace the thrust bearing.
If the end play is less than the minimum limit, inspect the thrust bearing faces for scratches, burrs, nicks,
or dirt. If the thrust faces are not
PRY CAP BACKWARD
defective or dirty, they probably

were not aligned properly. Install
the thrust bearing and align the faces
following the recommended procedure (steps 12, 13, 14, and 15).
Check the end play which should
be within specifications.
20. Install new bearing inserts in
the connecting rods and caps. Check
the clearance of each bearing following the procedure under Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement.
21. If the bearing clearances are
to specifications, apply a light coat
of engine oil to the journals and
bearings.
the bottom of its stroke. Push the
piston all the way down until the
rod bearing seats on the crankshaft
journal.
23. Install the connecting rod cap.
24. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod
side clearance on each connecting
rod crankshaft journal (Fig. 34)
25. Turn the engine on the work
stand so that the front end is up. Install the timing chain and sprockets,
cylinder front cover and crankshaft
pulley or damper, following steps 1
thru 3 under Cylinder Front Cover
and Timing Chain Installation.
26. Clean the oil pan, oil pump,
and oil pump screen.
27. Prime and install the oil
pump following steps 1, 2, and 3
under Oil Pump Installation. Install
the oil pan following steps 2
through 5 under Oil Pan Installation.
28. Position the flywheel on the
crankshaft. Apply oil-resistant sealer
to the flywheel retaining bolts. Install
and torque the retaining bolts to
specifications.
On a flywheel for a manual-shift
transmission, use a suitable tool to
locate the clutch disc. Install the
pressure plate.

stand so that the engine is in the
normal position . Install the oil level
dipstick . Install and adjust the drive
belt.
3Q. Remove the engine from the
work stand and install it in the car.
CAMSHAFT BEARING
REPLACEMENT
FIG. 47-Typical
Thrust
Bearing Alignment
The camshaft bearings are available pre-finished to size and require

no reaming for standard and 0.015inch undersize journal diameters.
PART 82-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

THRUST BEARING
CAMSHAFT BEARING (LOOSE)
FIG. 48- Typical Camshaft Bearing Replacement

1. Remove the ftywlleel and the
camshaft. Remove the rear bearing
bore'plug (Fig. 28).
2. Remove the camshaft bearings
with the tool shown in Fig. 48.
3. Fit the tool shaft and adaptors
to the camshaft bearing tunnel bores,
position two adaptors as guides to
locate the shaft and one behind
the bearing to be removed, fit the
slotted collar to the shaft behind
the adaptor being used to withdraw
the bearing.
Ensure that it fits snugly on the
shaft. Attach the U plate on the
front of the shaft, the pin engaging
with the keyway in the shaft. Fit
the thrust bearing and wing nut,
tighten slowly and remove the bearing from the block.
4. Repeat the procedure for each
bearing.
5. Replacement. Check bearing
bores for scratches and burrs. Position the new bearing on adaptor and
replace with similar procedure as
for removal. Align the oil holes in
the bearings with the oil holes in
the cylinder block when the bearings
are installed. Repeat the pro<:edure
for each bearing. Be sure the front
bearing is installed 0.115" -0.125"
below the front face of the cylinder
block.
6. Clean out the f amshaft rear
bearing bore plug recess, thoroughly.
Coat the flange of a new plug with
oil-resistant sealer and install the
plug with the flange edge of the
plug facing outward.
7. Install the camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel and related parts,
following the appropriate procedures
on page 8 3 i , except do not check
connecting rod and main bearing
clearances as a part of Camshaft
Bearing Replacement. Install the eng
ine in the car.
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY
Follow steps 1 to 3, 5 to 13, and 24
under Engine Disassembly. Remove
the cylinder assembly from the work
stand.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket and seal surfaces
of all parts and assemblies (refer to
Page 8-19.
ASSEMBLY
Install the replacement cylinder
block assembly on a work stapd.
Transfer all parts removed from the
old cylinder assembly to the new
cylinder assembly, following the procedures in steps 28 to 44, 47 to 50, 54
and 56 to 58 under Engine Assembly.
Check all assembly clearances.
CYLINDER BLOCK
REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY
Follow steps 1 to 3, 5 to 19, 21 and
24 under Engine Disassembly. Remove the cylinder assembly from the
work stand.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket and seal surfaces
of all parts and assemblies (refer to
Page 8-19.
ASSEMBLY
block assembly on a work stand.
Transfer all parts removed from the
old cylinder assembly to the new
cylinder assembly, following the procedures in steps 1 to 4, 6 to 9, 11 to
21, 28 to 50, 54 and 56 to 58 under
Engine Assembly. Check all assembly
clearances.
ENGINE DISASSEMILY
1. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line at the carburettor.
2. Disconnect the carburettor fuel
inlet line at the fuel pump. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line
8-41
at the distributor. Remove the fuel

inlet line and distributor vacuum line
as an assembly.
3. Remove the carburettor and
gasket. Remove the exhaust manifold. (Previously removed on 250-2V)
4. Remove the coil. Remove the
distributor cap and spark plug
wires as an assembly. Remove the
distributor, fuel pump, oil pressure
sending unit, oil filter and oil filter
mounting insert. Remove the spark
plugs.
cover. Remove the valve rocker arm
shaft assembly (Fig. 12) by removing
the support bolts evenly and equally
2 turns at a time.
6. Remove the valve push rods in
sequence and. identify them so that
they can be installed in their original
positions (Fig. 13).
7. Remove all cylinder head bolts.
Lift the cylinder head assembly off
the engine. Do not pry between the
bead and block as the gasket surfaces may become damaged.
Usi'lg a magnet, remove the valve
lifters and 'keep them in order so
location (Fig. 26).
transmission, mark the pressure plate
cover so that it can be replaced in
the same position. Remove the
clutch . pressure plate and cover
assembly.
Remove the flywheel. Remove the
clutch pilot bearing (Fig. 3Y) and
engine rear cover plate.
8. Remove the dipstick and the
oil pan. Discard the gasket and
seals.
9. Remove the oil pump and inlet
tube assembly. Discard the oil pump
gasket.
10. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and disconnect the alternator adjusting arm at the water
pump. Remove the drive belt.
11. Remove the alternator, and
the water pump. Remove the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper
by using tool 6306 AG.
cover. Discard the gasket. Check the
camshaft end play by following step
15 under Camshaft Removal. Check
timing chain deflection by following
step 4 under Cylinder Front Cover
Removal.
13. Remove the camshaft sprocket
re.taining bolt and washer. Slide both
sprockets and the timing chain forward and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 22).
14. Remove any ridges and/ or
8-42
deposits from the upper end of the
cylinder bores. Remove the cylinder
ridges with a ridge cutter. Follow
the instructions furnished by the tool
manufacturer. Never cut into the
ring travel area in excess of 1/ 32
inch when removing ridges.
15. Make sure all bearing caps
(main and connecting rod) are
marked so they can be installed
in their original locations. Turn
the crankshaft until the connecting
rod being removed is down. Remove
the connecting rod cap.
cylinder with the handle end of a
hammer. Avoid damage to the
crankpinorthecylinderwall when
removing the piston and rod.
17. Remove the bearing inserts
from the connecting rods and caps.
Remove the main bearing caps.
18. Carefully lift the crankshaft out
of the cylinder block so that the thrust
bearing surfaces are not damaged.
Handle the crankshaft with care
to avoid possible fracture or
damage to the finished surfaces.
19. Remove the rear journal oil
seal from the block and rear main
bearing cap. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and
bearing caps.
plate. Carefully remove the camshaft
by pulling it toward the front of the
engine. Use caution to avoia damaging the journals and lobes.
21. Remove the camshaft rear
bearing bore plug (Fig. 28).
22. Remove the camshaft bearings
(Fig. 48).
23. Remove the dipstick tube and
the plug or drain.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
1. Install the camshaft bearings
and rear bore plug by following
steps 3 and 4 under Camshaft Bearing Replacement.
2. The camshaft and related parts
are shown in Fig. 25. Oil the camshaft journals and apply Lubriplate
to all camshaft lobes. Carefully slide
the camshaft through the bearings.
3. Install the thrust plate. Torque
the retaining screws to specifications.
4. The crankshaft and related
parts are shown in Fig. 44. Be sure
that the rear journal oil seal grooves
are clean. Install a new rear journal
oil seal in the Block (Fig. 45) and
rear main bearing cap (Fig. 32).
GROUP 8- ENGINE
After installation, cut the ends of
the seals flush.
journals have been refinished to a
definite undersize, install the correct
undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing bores are clean. Place the upper
main bearing inserts m position in
the bore with the tang fitting in the
slot provided.
into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
main bearing following steps 10
through 13 under Main Bearing Replacement. In step 10, place the
Plastigage on the crankshaft journal instead of in the bearing cap.
(Fig. 46).
Install all the bearing caps, except the
thrust bearing cap No. 5 bearing. Be
sure that the main bearing caps
are installed in their original
locations. Torque the bearing cap
10. Install the thrust bearing cap
by following steps 12 through 15
under Crankshaft Installation.
11. Check the crankshaft end play
by following steps 17 through 19
under "Crankshaft Installation."
stand so that the front end is up.
13. Oil the piston rings, pistons,
and cylinder walls with light engine
oil.
14. Be sure to install the pistons
in the same cylinders from which
they were removed, or to which they
were fitted. The connecting rod and
bearing cap are numbered from 1 to
6 beginning at the front of the
engine. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must
be on the same side when installed
In the cylinder bore. If a conqecting
rod is ever transposed from one
block or cylinder to another, new
bearings should be fitted and the
connecting rod should be numbered
to correspond with the new cyUnder
number.
properly spaced around the circumference of the piston.
16. Install a piston ring compressor on the piston and push the piston
in with a hammer handle until it is
slightly below the top of the cylinder
(Fig. 33 ~ Be sure to guide the con-
necting rods to avoid damaging the

crankshaft journals. Install the piston with the notch in the piston head
toward the front of the engine.
bearing following the procedure under Connecting RC>d Bearing Replacement.
the bottom of its stroke. Push the
piston all the way down until the
connecting rod bearing seats on the
crankshaft journal.
21. After the piston and connect
ing rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side
clearance on each crankshaft journal
(Fig. 34)
22. Lubricate the timing chain

and sprockets with engine oil. Place
the keys in position in the slots on
the crankshaft and camshaft.
23. Oil the timing chain. Position
the sprockets and timing chain on
the camshaft and crankshaft. Be
sure the timing marks on the
sprockets and chain are positioned as
shown in Fig. 21.
24. Install the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt and washer. Torque
the bolt to specifications.
25. Clean the cylinder front cover
and the gasket surface of the cylinder
block.
26. Install a new crankshaft front
oil seal.
27. Coat the gasket surface of the
block and the cover with oil-resistant
sealer. Position a new gasket on the
block.
28. Using tool 6019-A, install the
cylinder front cover on the block.
Torque the screws to specifications.
Apply Lubriplate to the seal surface,
and to the seal running surface of the
damper.
29. Line up the crankshaft damper
keyway with the key on the crankshaft.
30. Install the crankshaft damper.
31. Install the water pump, alternator, fan pulley, and fan. Install
and adjust the drive belt.
either the inlet or outlet port with
engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to
distribute the oil within the pump
body.
33. Install the oil pump. Clean
and install the oil inlet tube assembly.

Using a new gasket, install the
oil pump. Clean and install the oil
inlet tube assembly.
34. Make sure the gasket surfaces
of the block and oil pan are clean.
35. Coat the block surface and oil
pan gasket surface with oil-resistant
sealer and position the gasket on the
block (Fig. 41).
36. Install the oil pan front seal
on the cylinder front cover and the
oil pan rear seal on the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 41). Be sure the
tabs on the seals are over the oil
pan gasket.
37. Position the oil pan on the
block. Install the retaining screws.
Torque the screws from the center
outward in each direction to specifications.
38 . .Install the clutch pilot bearing
(Fig. 39). Install the engine rear
cover plate, position the flywheel on
the crankshaft and install the retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to
specifications. On a manual shift
transmission use a suitable tool to
locate the disc. Install the pressure
plate. Torque the retaining bolts to
specifications.
39. Using a new gasket, install
the fuel pump.
40. Turn the crankshaft until No.
1 cylinder is at TDC after the compression stroke. Position the distributor and intermediate drive shaft
into the block with the rotor at the
No. 1 firing position and the breaker
points open. Install the hold down
clamp. Make sure the oU pump Ia
termedlate drive shaft Is properly
seated Ia the oU pump. It may be
aec ~asary to reposition the later
mediate shaft Ill order to eng111e It
In the oil pump.
41. Instali the oil filter insert and
oil filter assembly.
41. Dip the valve lifter foot in

Lubriplate. Coat the remainder of
each valve lifter with engine oil.
Install the lifters in their original
bores.
43. Clean the head and block gasket surfaces.
44. Inspect the head for any damage and repair as necessary.
45. Do not apply sealer to the
gasket on six cylinder engines.
Install the cylinder head guide studs
(Fig. 14). Position the gasket over the
guide studs on the cylinder block.
46. Lift the cylinder head over
the guides and slide it down carefully. Before installing the cylinder
head bolts, coat the thread of the
end bolt for the right side of the
cylinder head with a small amount
of water resistant sealer. Install, but
do not tighten, two bolts at opposite
ends of the head to hold the head
and gasket in position. Remove the
guides, then install the remaining
bolts.
to:-qued in three progressive steps.
Follow the sequence shown in Fig.
14. Torque the bolts to 55 ft-Ibs;
then torque them to 65 ft-lbs. Finally, torque the bolts to specifications.
After the cyUnder head bolts have
beea torqued to specifications, the
bolts should not be disturbed.
of the push rods. Install the push
rods in their proper sequence, positioning the lower end of the rods in
the lifter sockets.
49. Apply Lubriplate to the valve
tips and the rocker arm pads. Position the valve rocker arm shaft assembly on the head. Be sure the oU
holes In the shaft are fadag dowaward.
shaft bolts. Tighten them evenly and
8-43
equally 2 turns at a time until the

specified torque is obtained.
51. Refer to Page 8-11
and check the valve clearance.
51. Clean the gasket surfaces on
the valve rocker arm cover and
cylinder head. Coat one side of a
new gasket with an oil-resistant
sealer and lay the cemented side of
the gasket on the cover. Install the
cover making sure the gasket seats
evenly around the head. Torque the
cover bolts to specifications. Torque
the cover bolts to specificc.tions
again two minutes later.
53. Install the spark plugs. Install
the distributor cap and spark plug
wire assembly. Connect the spark
plug wires. Install the coil on the
block and connect the coil high tension lead.
54. Position the exhaust manifold
on the cylinder head except on 2502V. Install the tab washers and bolts.
Lock the bolts by bending one tab of
the washer over a flat on the bolt.
55. Position the carburettor gasket
on the manifold. Install the carburettor except on 250-2V.
56. Install the carburettor fuel
inlet line, the manifold vacuum line
and the distributor vacuum line,
except on 250-2V.
51. Install the oil pressure sending
unit, dipstick tube and dipstick.
58. Install the engine in the car.
exhaust manifold as described on
page8-27.
inlet manifold, carburettor etc. as
described on page 8~27 .
61. Check the ignition timing and
adJUSt if necessary. Adjust the
engine idle fuel mixture and idle
speed.
8-44
PART
83
302-351 C.I.D.V8ENGINES
INDEX
Page No.
Description .. . . .. .. .. .. .. .. . . . . .. .. .. . . .. .. .. 8-45
In Vehicle Adjustments and Repairs
Engine Front Supports .. .. .. . . .. .. .. . . .. ..
8-45
Engine Rear Supports ............. .
8-46
Valve Clearance Checking Procedure
8-46
Valve Rocker Arm Cover and Rocker Arm ...... .. 8-46
Intake Manifold .. .. ..
. . .. .. ..
8-47
Exhaust Manifold .. .. .. .. .. . .
.. .. .. ..
8-48
Crankcase Ventilation System
....... .
8-48
.. .. .. ..
Cylinder Heads .. .. .. ~ .. .. . .
8-49
Valve Spring, Retainer and Stem Seal ....... .
8-50
Water Pump ........................ .
8-51
Front Oil Seal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . .. ..
8-51
8-52
Camshaft ................... .
8-53
Camshaft Rear Bearing Bore Plug .. .. ..
8-54
Valve Lifter .. . . .. . . .. .. . . .. . . .. ..
8-54
Valve Lifter Disassembly .. . . . . .. . .
8-54
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
8-55
Main Bearings .. .. . . .. .. .. .. . .
8-55
Connecting Rod Bearings
8-56
Pistons and Connecting Rods ..
8-57
Flywheel ........... .
8-58
Clutch Pilot Bushing
8-58
Oil Filter ... .
8-59
Oil Pan .. ....... .
8-59
Oil Pump ...... ................. .
8-59
Engine Removal and Installation
Removal ........ ....... .
8-60
Installation .. .. .. .. . . . .
8-61
Crankshaft .. .. .. .. .. ..
8-61
Camshaft Bearings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
8-63
Cylinder Assembly Replacement
.. .. .. ..
8-63
Cylinder Block Replacement .. .. .. .. .. ..
8-64
Engine Disassembly and Assembly ..
8-64
8-45
PART 8-4- 302-351 C.I.D. VS ENGINE

1
DESCRIPTION
FIG. 1 - 351
FIG. 1A -
Engine
V8 302 and 351 CID Engines are basic

ally the same (Fig. 1) the main differences
being length of stroke, air cleaner and
carburettor type.
302
EnginB
Both engines have positive crankcase

ventilation systems of the semi closed
type.
2 IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

must be torqued (refer to specifications),
oil the threads with light weight engine oil.
IAOU
REdo FOR C4,FWX AUtO TIWIS &~
' SPEEO STD TRANS ONLY
~
~(!
,, &
Do not oil threads that require oil-resisrant
or water-resistant sealer.
~
II>
II>
FIG. 3- EnginB Rear Supports
Refer to page 815 for cleaning and

inspection procedures.
Refer to page
8 2 for test procedures.
ENGINE FRONT SUPPORTS
The front supports are located on

each side of the cylinder block (Figs. 2
and 3). The procedures given apply to
either a right or left installation.
REMOVAL
FIG. 2- Engine Front Sup.oorts
1.
bolts.
Remove the fan shroud attaching
2. Remove the through bolt and

lock nut attaching the insulator to the
insulator support bracket (Figs. 2 and 3).
3. Raise the engine slightly with a
jack and a wood block placed under the
oil pan.
4. Remove the engine insulator
assembly to cylinder block attaching bolts
and lock washers. Remove the engine
insulator assembly and heat shield.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the engine insulator

assembly and the heat shield to the
cy Iinder block and install the attaching
bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts
8-46
GROUP 8- ENGINE
to specifications.
2. Lower the engine into position,
install the engine insulator assembly to
insulator support bracket through bolt and
remove the jack and wood block.
3. Install the engine insulator
assembly to insulator support bracket
nuts. Tighten the nut to specifications.
4. Install the fan shroud attaching
bolts.
ENGINE REAR SUPPORT
The rear support is located at the
transmission extension housing (Fig. 3).
REMOVAL
1. Remove the support insulator to
crossmember attaching nuts.
2. Remove the support insulator to
transmission extension housing bolts and
lock washers.
3. Raise the transmission with a
floor jack. Remove the support insulator
and retainer.
INSTALLATION.
I. Position the support insulator and
retainer on the transmission extension
housing.
2. Install the support insulator to
transmission extension housing bolts and
lock washers. Tighten the bolts to
specifications. Lower the transmission.
3. Install the support insulator to
crossmember attaching nuts. Tighten the
VALVE CLEARANCE CHECKING

PROCEDURE
The valve arrangement of the left
bank is E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I and on the right
bank is I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E.
A 0.060-inch shorter push rod or a
0.060-inch longer push rod are available
for service to provide a means of
compensating for dimensional changes in
the valve mechanism.
FIG. 4 - Checking Valve Clearance
Valve stem to valve rocker arm

clearance should be within specifications
with the hydraulic lifter completely
collapsed. Repeated valve reconditioning
operations (valve and/or valve seat
refacing) will decrease the clearance to the
point that if not compensated for , the
hydraulic valve lifter will cease to function
and the valve will be held open.
To determine whether a shorter or a
longer push rod is necessary , make the
following check:
1. Disconnect the brown lead (I
terminal) and the red and blue lead (S
terminal) at the starter relay. Install an
auxiliary starter switch between the
battery and S terminals of the Starter
relay. Crank the engine with the ignition
switch OFF until the No. I piston i~ on
TDC after the compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft in the
positions designated in Steps, 3,4, and 5,
position the hydraulic lifter compressor
tool on the rocker arm. Slowly apply
pressure to bleed down the hydraulic lifter
until the plunger is completely bottomed
(Fig. 4) . Hold the lifter in this position
and check the available clearance between
the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with
a feeler gauge.
With No , I ot TDC at end o f compr e ss ion st roke

mak e a chalk mark at poi nt s Band C approx imatel y
90 degree s aport .
If the clearance is less than

specifications, install an undersize push
rod. If the clearance is greater than
specifications, install an oversize push rod.
3. With the No. I piston on TDC at
the end of the compression stroke,
POSITION A in Fig. 5, check the
following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. I Exhaust
4. After these valves have been
checked, rotate the crankshaft to
POSITION B in Fig. 5, and check the
following valves:
5. After these valves have been
checked, rotate the crankshaft to
POSITION C in Fig. 7 and check the
following valves:
VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER

AND ROCKER ARM
The valve rocker arm is shown in Fig.
6.
ROCKER
ARM
6564
FULC RUM
SEA T
6A528
FIG. 6- Rocker Arm and Related Parts

POSITION A - No. 1 a t TDC a t e nd o! com pression stroke.
POSITION 8 -R otate the cra nk sha ft 180 deg re es (one ha lf
re vo lution) clock wise fr om POSITION A.

POSITION C -R otate the cranksha ft 270 degr e es (three
q uar ter revolution) clockwis e fr om
POSI TI ON B.
A3234.A
FIG. 5- Position of Crankshaft for Checking Valve Clearance and Installing Rocker Arms
8-47
PART 8-4-302 351 C.I.D. VB ENGINE

REMOVAL
1. Remove the air cleaner and intake
duct assembly.
If a right cylinder head rocker arm is
to be removed, remove the crankcase
ventilation regulator valve from the valve
rocker arm cover.
from the spark plugs by grasping, twisting
and pulling the moulded cap only.
Remove the wires from the bracket on the
valve rocker arm cover(s) and position the
wires out of the way.
cover(s).
bolt, fulcrum seat and rocker arm.
INSTALLATION
All rocker arms and fulcrum seats are
to be lubricated with heavy engine oil MS
before installation.
1. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to
the top of the valve stem. Lubricate the
rocker arm and fulcrum seat with heavy
engine oil MS.
2. Position the No. 1 piston on TDC
POSITION A in Fig. 5 and install the
rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the
following valves:
Position the crankshaft in POSITION
B in Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm,
fulcrum seat and bolt on the following
valves:
Jllo. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust
C in Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm,
fulcrum seat and bolt on the following
valves:
Be sure that the fulcrum seat base is
inserted in its slot on the cylinder head
before tightening the fulcrum bolts.
Tighten the fulcrum bolt to specification.
Check the valve clearance following the
procedures
under
Valve Clearance
Checking Procedure page 8-12 .
3. Clean the valve rocker arm
cover(s) and the cylinder head gasket
surface(s). Apply oil-resistant sealer to one
side of new cover gasket(s). Lay the
cemented side of the gasket(s) in place in
the cover(s).
4. Position the cover(s) on the
cylinder head(s). Make sure the gasket
seats evenly all around the head. Install
the bolts. The cover is tightened in two
steps. Tighten the bolts to specifications.
Two minutes later, tighten the bolts to the
same specifications.
If the right cover was removed, install
the crankcase ventilation regulator valve.

Install the air cleaner and intake duct
assembly.
5. Install the spark plug wires in the
bracket on the valve rocker arm cover(s).
Connect the spark plug wires.
leaks.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
The Intake Manifold Assembly is
shown in Fig. 7.
CHOKE HEATER
v'
M~~~--.._....-
........,.
REMOVAL
duct.
2. Disconnect the high tension lead
and wires from the coil. Disconnect the
engine wire loom and position it out of
the way.
from the spark plugs by grasping, twisting
and pulling the moulded cap only.
Remove the wires from the harness
brackets on the valve rocker arm covers.
Remove the distributor cap and spark plug
wire assembly.
4. Remove the carburetor fuel inlet
line.
5. Remove the heater hoses from the
retainers and position the hoses out of the
way.
6. Remove the ignition coil and
bracket.
7. Disconnect
the
crankcase
emission hose at the right rocker arm
cover.
8. Disconnect the vacuum lines from
the intake manifold. Remove the bolts
attaching the vacuum outlet to the left
hand rocker arm covers," if so equipped.
9. Disconnect
the
distributor
vacuum hoses from the distributor.
Remove the distributor hold down bolt
and remove the distributor.
10. Disconnect the accelerator linkage
and transmission downshift linkage, if so
equipped, and position out of the way.
11. Remove the carburetor.
12. Remove: the manifold attaching
bolts. Remove the manifold. Remove and
discard the intake manifold gasket and
seals.
13. If the manifold assembly is to be
disassembled, identify all vacuum hoses
before disconnecting them.
INSTALLATION
1. If the intake manifold assembly
was disassembled, install the engine
identification tag.
2. Clean the mating surfaces of the
intake manifold, cylinder heads and
cylinder block. Use a suitable solvent to
remove all traces of oil.
3. Position new seals on the cylinder
block and press the seal locating
INTAKE MANIFOLD
GASKET-9441
SEALS
9A424
A3238A
FIG. 7- Intake Menifold Assembly
extensions into the holes in the mating

surface.
Apply non-hardening sealer at the
four junction points of the seals and
cylinder heads. Position the intake
manifold gasket onto the block and
cylinder heads with the alignment notches
under the dowels on the cylinder heads.
Be sure the holes in the gasket are aligned
with the holes in the cylinder head.
4. Carefully lower the intake
manifold into position on the cylinder
block and cylinder heads.
5. Be sure the holes in the manifold
gaskets and manifold are in alignment.
Install the intake manifold attaching bolts.
Tighten the intake manifold bolts in three
steps (Fig. 8);
Tighten all bolts in sequence to 8-10
ft-lb.
ft-lb.
Tighten all bolts in sequence to
specifications.
After completing the remammg
asaembly steps, operate the engine until it
reaches normal operating temperature
then re-tighten the manifold bolts in
sequence to specifications.
6. Instalt the carburetor and gasket.
7. Rotate the crankshaft damper
until the No. 1 piston is on TDC at the
end of the compression stroke. Position
the distributor in the block with the rotor
at the No. 1 firing position and the points
just open. lrtStall the hold down clamp.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-48
CD 0 0 CD 0
FRONT
OF
ENGINE
Q) @@@0
FIG. 8 -Intake Manifold Torque Saquence
8. Install the accelerator linkage and

transmission downshift rod, if so
equipped.
9. Install the ignition coil.
10. Connect the vacuum lines at the
manifold. Install the manifold vacuum
outlet attaching bolts at the left hand
rocker arm cover, if so equipped.
11. Position the engine wire loom
under the hold down clips on the left
rocker arm cover and connect the wires at
the ignition coil and water temperature
sending unit.
12. Connect the crankcase emission
line at the right hand rocker arm cover.
13. Install the heater hoses in the
retainers.
14. Connect the fuel pump to
carburetor fue1line at the carburetor.
15. Install the distributor cap.
Position the spark plug wires in the
harness brackets on the valve rocker arm

covers and connect the wires to the spark
plugs.
leaks. Adjust the ignition timing and
connect the distributor vacuum line.
17. When engine temperature has
stabilized, adjust idle mixture and speed.
Retorque the intake manifold to
specifications.
18. Install the air cleaner assembly
and re-check idle speed.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
1. If a right hand exhaust manifold
is being removed, remove the ait cleaner,
intake duct and heat stove.
2. If a left ,hand exhaust manifold is
being removed, remove the oil filter.

3. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe
at the exhaust manifold.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold
attaching bolts and remove the manifold.
INSTALLATION
exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Clean
the mounting flange of the exhaust
manifold and muffler inlet pipe.
2. Apply graphite grease to the
mating surface of the exhaust manifold.
3. Position the exhaust manifold on
the head and install the attaching bolts.
Working from the center to the ends,
tighten the bolts to specifications.
4. Connect the muffler inlet pipes at
the exhaust manifold. Tighten the
attaching nuts to specifications.
5. If a left hand exhaust ::1anifold is
being installed, install the oil fllter.
6. If a right hand exhaust manifold
is being replaced, install the air cleaner
heat stove. Install the air cleaner and
intake duct.
exhaust leaks.
CRANKCASE VENTILATION
SYSTEM
The crankcase ventilation system
components are shown in Fig. 9.
REMOVAL
FIG 9. - Typical VB engine crankcase ventilation

system components.
1. Remove the ventilation system air

intake hose from the air cleaner and the
oil filler cap.
duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the crankcase vent
hose from the carburetor, regulator valve
and hot idle compensator (if so equipped);
4. Pull the regulator valve out of the
valve rocker arm cover mounting
grommet.
5. Remove the crankcase ventilation
fllter from the air cleaner body.
8-49
PART 8-4- 302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES
INSTALLATION
1. Install the crankcase ventilation
filter in the air cleaner body.
2. insert the regulator valve into the
valve rocker arm cover mounting
grommet.
3. Connect the vent hose to the
carburetor, regulator valve and hot idle
compensator (if so equipped).
4. Install the air cleaner and intake
duct assembly.
5. Install the ventilation system air
intake hose to the air cleaner and the oil
filler cap.
leaks.
CYLINDER HEADS
If a cylinder head is to be replaced,
follow the procedures under Cylinder
Head Disassembly and Assembly, and
transfer all valves, springs, spark plugs,
etc., to the new cylinder head. Clean and
inspect all parts, reface the valves (refer to
8-,16 Section 3) and check all assembly
clearances before assembling the new or
used parts to the new cylinder head.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake manifold and
carburetor as an assembly following the
procedure
under
Intake
Manifold
Removal.
2. Remove the rocker arm cover(s).
If the left cy Iinder head is to be
removed on a vehicle with an air
conditioner, isolate and remove the
compressor.
If the left cylinder head is to be
removed on a vehicle with power steering,
disconnect the power steering pump
bracket from the left cylinder head and
remove the drive belt from the pump
pulley. Position the power steering pump
out of the way and in a position that will
prevent the oil from draining out.
3. If the right cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the alternator mounting
bracket through bolt and air cleaner inlet
duct from the right cylinder head
assembly. Remove the ground wire at the
rear of the cylinder head.
the
exhaust
4. Disconnect
manifold(s) from the muffler inlet pipe(s).
5. Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum
bolts so that the rocker arms can be
rotated to the side. Remove the push rods
in sequence (Fig. 10) so that they may be
installed in their original positions.
6. Remove the cylinder head
attaching bolts and lift the cylinder head
off the block. Remove and discard the
cylinder head gasket.
IJ
FIG. 11 -Cylinder Head Bolt Torque
Sequence
FIG. 10- Removing Valve Push Rod
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the cylinder head, intake
manifold, valve rocker arm cover and
cylinder head gasket surfaces. If the
cylinder head was removed for a cylinder
head gasket replacement, check the
flatness of the cylinder head and block
gasket surfaces.
2. Position the new cylinder head
gasket over the cylinder dowels on the
block. Position the cylinder head on the
block and install the attaching bolts.
tightened in three progressive steps.
Tighten all the bolts in sequence (Fig. 11)
to 50 ft-lbs., then to 60 ft-lbs. and finally
to specifications. When cylinder head bolts
have been tightened following this
procedure, it is not necessary to retorque
the bolts after extended operation.
However, the bolts may be checked and
retorqued if desired.
4. Clean the push rod in a suitable
solvent. Blow out the oil passage in the
push rod with compressed air. Check the
ends of the push rods for nicks, grooves,
roughness or excessive wear. Visually
check the push rods for straightness o.r
check push rod runout with a dial
indicator. If runout exceeds the maximum
limit at any point, discard the rod. Do not
attempt to straighten push rods.
5. Lubricate and install the push
rods in their original positions. Apply
Lubriplate or equivalent to the valve stem
tips.
6. Lubricate and install the rocker
arms following procedures under Valve
Rocker Arm Installation.
7. Connect the exhaust manifold(s)
at the muffler inlet pipe(s). Tighten the
8. If the right cylinder head was
removed, install the alternator mounting
bracket through bolt and air cleaner inlet
duct on the right cylinder head assembly.
Connect the ground wire at the rear of the
cylinder head. Adjust the drive belt
tension to specifications.
9. Apply oil-resistant sealer to one
side of new cover gasket(s). Lay the
cemented side of the gasket(s) in place in
the cover(s). Install the valve rocker arm
cover(s).
FIG. 12- Compressing Valve Spring on

Bench
If the left cylinder head was removed

on a vehicle with an air conditioner, install
the compressor.
If the left cylinder head was removed
on a vehicle with power steering, install
the drive belt and power steering pump
bracket. Install the bracket attaching
bolts.
Adjust the drive belt to
specifications.
10. Install the intake manifold and
related parts following the procedure
under Intake Manifold Installation.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the exhaust manifolds
and the spark plugs.
2. Clean the carbon out of the
cylinder head combustion chambers
before removing the valves.
3. Compress the valve springs (Fig.
12). Remove the spring retainer locks and
release the spring.
4. Remove the spring retainer, spring
and stem seal. Discard the valve stem seals.
Remove any burrs from the valve stem
with Tool TIOP-6506-A as shown in Fig.
13 to prevent damage to the valve guide
bore. Remove the valve. Identify all valve
parts.
5. Clean, inspect and repair the
cy Iinder head as required, or transfer all
usable parts to a new cylinder head.
Note The damper spring is an interference
fit in the valve spring. The spring and
damper is removed as an assembly.
ASSEMBLY
All valves, valve stems and valve guides
are to be lubricated with heavy engine oil
MS. The valve tips are to have Lubriplate
or equivalent applied. The lubricant is to
be applied before installation.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-50
FIG. 13- Removing Valve Stem Burrs
LOCKS~~~
6518
SPR~NG
_.
RETAINER
6514
D7ER
~ SJ.
~
OILSEAL ' I
6571
~651 3
EXHAUST
VALVE
65()1;
~
INTAKE
VALVE
1.1\07
A3243-A
FIG. 14- Valve and Related Parts
4. Install the valve spring over the

valve, and then install the spring retainer.
Compress the spring and install the
retainer locks (Fig. 12).
5. Measure the assembled height of
the valve spring from the surface of the
cy Iinder head spring pad to the underside
of the spring retainer with dividers (Fig.
15). Check the dividers against a scale. If
the assembled height is greater than
specifications,
install
the necessary
0.030-inch thick spacer(s) between the
cylinder head spring pad and the valve
spring to bring the assembled height to the
recommended height.
Do not install the spacers unless
necessary. Use of spacers in excess of
recommendations
will
result
in
overstressing the valve springs and
overloading the camshaft lobes which
could lead to spring breakage and/or worn
camshaft lobes.
6. Install the exhaust manifolds and
the spark plugs.

fulcrum, bolts, fulcrum seats, valve rocker
arms and push rods from the applicable
cylinder.
5. Install an air line with an adapter
in the spark plug hole and turn on the air
supply.
6. Install the compressor tool as
shown in Fig. 16. Compress the valve
spring and remove the retainer locks,
spring retainer and valve spring.
7. Remove and discard the valve
stem seal (Fig. 17).
8. If air pressure has forced the
piston to the bottom of the cylinder, any
removal of air pressure will allow the
valve(s) to fall into the cylinder. A rubber
band, tape or string wrapped around the
end of the valve stem will prevent this
condition and will still allow enough travel
to check the valve for binds.
VALVE SPRING, RETAINER AND

STEM SEAL
Broken valve springs or damaged valve
stem seals and retainers may be replaced
without removing the cylinder head,
provided damage to the valve or valve seat
has not occurred.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the automatic choke
heat chamber air inlet hose from the inlet
tube near the right valve rocker arm cover.
duct assembly.
To remove the right valve rocker arm
cover, remove the crankcase ventilation
regulator valve from the valve rocker arm
cover.
cover and the applicable spark plug.
FIG. 17- Removing or Installing Valve

Stem Seal
FIG. 18- Removing Crankshaft Vibration

Damper
FIG. 15- Valve Spring Assembled Height
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the spring retainer lock
grooves on the valves to remove any loose
rna terial left by the valve stem de-burring
tool.
2. Lubricate the valve guide and
valve stem with heavy engine oil MS.
3. Install each valve (Fig. 14) in the
port from which it was removed or to
which it was fitted. Install a new stem
seal on the valve.
FIG. 16- Compressing Valve Spring in

Chassis
1. Inspect the valve stem for

damage. Rotate the valve and check the
valve stem tip for eccentric movement
during rotation. Move the valve up and
down through normal travel in the valve
guide and check the stem for binds. If the
valve has been damaged, it will be
necessary to remove the cylinder head for
repairs.
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENGINES

2. If the condition of the valve
proved satisfactory, hold the valve in the
closed position and apply the air pressure
within the cylinder.
3. Lubricate the valve stem with
heavy engine oil MS.
4. Install a new valve stem seal (Fig.
17). Place the spring in position over the
valve and install the valve spring retainer.
Compress the valve spring and install the
valve spring retainer locks.. Remove the
compressor tool and stud nut. Turn off
the air and remove the air line adapter.
rod. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the
tip of the valve stem.
6.. Lubricate the push rod socket,
fulcrum seat and the valve pad of the
rocker arm with heavy engine oil MS.
7. Postion the No. 1 piston on TDC
at the end of the compression &troke,
POSITION A in Fig. 5, and install the
rocker arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum
bolts on the following valves:
B shown in Fig. 5, and install the rocker
arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum bolts on
the following valves:
C shown in Fig. 5, and install the rocker
arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum bolts on
Be sure that the fulcrum seat base is
Inserted In its slot on the cylinder head
before tightening the fulcrum bolt.
Tighten
the
fulcrum
bolts
to
specifications.
8. Oean and install the rocker arm
cover.
If the right cover was removed, install
the crankcase ventilation regulator valve.
9. Install the spark plug and connect
the spark plug wires.
duct assembly.
11. Connect the automatic choke
heat chamber air inlet hose.
WATER PUMP
REMOVAL
disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the fan shroud attaching
bolts and position the shroud rearward.
3. Remove the fan and spacer. from
the water pump shaft.
4. Remove the air conditioner
compressor drive belt lower idler pulley
and compressor mount to water pump
bracket, if so equipped.
5. Loosen the alternator and remove

the drive belt.
6. If equipped with power steering,
loosen the power steering pump and
remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the water pump pulley.
8. Remove alternator bracket from
water pump and position it out of the
way.
remove the power steering pump bracket
from the water pump and position it out
of the way.
10. Remove the heater hose from the
water pump.
11. Disconnect the lower radiator
hose at the water pump.
12. Remove
the
water
pump
attaching bolts and remove the water
pump.
8-51
3. Loosen the alternator, power

steering and air conditioner drive belts, if
so equipped. Remove the drive belts.
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley
from the vibration damper. Remove the
damper attaching screw and washer. Install
the puller on the crankshaft vibration
damper (Fig. 18) and remove the vibration
damper.
5. Place the front seal removing tool
onto the front cover over the front seal as
shown in Fig. 19. Tighten the two through
bolts to force the seal puller under the seal
flange.
6. Alternately tighten the four puller
bolts a half turn at a time as shown in Fig.
19 to pull the front oil seal from the front
cover.
INSTALLATION
Before a water pump is re-installed,
check it for damage. If it is damaged,
replace it.
1. Remove all gasket material from
the mounting surfaces of the cylinder
front cover and water pump.
2. Position a new gasket, coated on
both sides with sealer, on the cylinder
front cover; then install the pump. Coat
the threads of the attaching screws with
oil-resistant sealer and install the screws.
Tighten
the
attaching screws to
specifications.
3. Install
the
air
conditioner
compressor to water pump bracket and
lower idler pulley, if so equipped.
4. Position the alternator bracket
and power steering pump bracket, if so
equipped, on the water pump and install
the bracket bolts.
5. Position the water pump pulley
on the water pump shaft and install the
drive belts.
6. Place the fan shroud over the
pulley and install the fan and spacer.
bolts.
8. Adjust the drive belts to
specifications.
9. Connect the lower radiator hose
at the water pump.
10. Connect the heater hose at the
water pump.
11. Connect the battery cable. Fill
and bleed the cooling system. Operate the
engine until normal operating temperature
has been reached and check for leaks.
FIG. 19- Removing Front Crenkshaft Seal
FRONT OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Remove the bolts attaching the
fan shroud to the radiator.
2. Remove the fan and spacer bolts
from the water pump shaft. Remove the
fan, spacer and shroud.
FIG. 20- Installing Front Crankshaft Saal
8-52
GROUP 8- ENGINE
INSTALLATION
1. Coat a new front oil seal with
Lubriplate or equivalent and place it onto
the front
oil seal alignment and
installation sleeve as shown in Fig. 20.
Place the sleeve and seal onto the end of
the crankshaft and push it toward the
engine until the seal starts into the front
cover.
2. Place the installation screw,
washer and nut onto the end of the
crankshaft. Thread the screw into the
crankshaft. Tighten the nut against the
washer and installation sleeve to force the
seal into the front cover. Remove the
installation tool from the crankshaft.
the oil seal rubbing surface of the
vibration damper inner hub to prevent
damage to the seal. Apply a white lead and
oil mixt\lre to the front of the crankshaft
for damper installation.
4. Line up the crankshaft vibration
damper keyway with the key on the
crankshaft. Install the vibration damper on
the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install the cap
screw and washer. Torque the screw to
sp~cifications.
Install the crankshaft
pulley.
5. lnst;tll the alternator, power
steering pump and air conditioner belts, if
so equipped.
6. Position the fan shroud over the
water pump pulley. Install the fan and
spacer. Install the fan shroud attaching
screws.
specification.
CYLINDER FRONT COVER AND

TIMING CHAIN
REMOVAL
bolts.
3. Remove the fan and spacer from
4. If equipped with air conditioning,
loosen the lower idler pulley and remove
the compressor drive belt.
the drive belt.
loosen the power steering pump and
8. Remove the alternator to water
pump bracket. Position the alternator out
of the way.
remove the power steering pump bracket
from the water pump and cylinder head.
Position the pump out of the way.
remove the compressor to water pump
bracket and lower idler pulley.
FIG. 21- Installing Crankshaft Vibration

Dampar
11. Remove the heater hose and

lower radiator hose from the water pump.
from the crankshaft vibration damper.
Remove the vibration damper attaching
screw. Install the puller on the crankshaft
vibration damper (Fig. 18) and remove the
vibration damper.
13. Remove the timing pointer.
front cover and water pump to the
cylinder block. Remove the front cover
and water pump assembly.
15. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet
line from the fuel pump. Remove the fuel
pump attaching bolt and nut and lay the
pump to one side with the flexible fuel
line still attached.
16. Discard the cylinder front cover
gasket and oil pan seal. Remove the
crankshaft front oil slinger.
17. Check the timing chain deflection
does not exceed 0.5 inches.
18. Crank the engine until the timing
marks on the sprockets are positioned as
shown in Fig. 22.
19. Remove the camshaft sprocket
cap screw, washer and two piece fuel
pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and
the timing chain forward, and remove
them as an assembly (Fig. 23).
INSTALLATION
1. Position the sprockets and timing
chain on the camshaft and crankshaft (Fig.
24). Be sure the timing marks on the
sprock&ts are positioned as shown in
Fig.22.
2. Install the two piece fuel pump
eccentric, washers and camshaft sprocket
cap screw. Torque the sprocket cap screw
to specificati01i's. Be sure the outer
eccentric sleeve rotates freely.
Install the crankshaft front oil slinger
(Fig. 24).
3. Coat a new fuel pump gasket with
oil-resistant sealer and position the fuel
pump and gasket on the cylinder block
with pump arm resting on the eccentric
outer sleeve. Install the pump attaching
FIG. 22- Aligning Timing Marks
bolt and nut and tighten to specification.

Connect the fuel pump outlet line.
4. Remove the front crankshaft seal
from the cylinder front cover with the
tool shown in Fig. 19. Clean the cylinder
front cover and the engine block gasket
surfaces.
5. Coat the gasket surfaces of the
block and cover with sealer, and position a
new gasket on the cylinder block
alignment dowels.
6. Position the cylinder front cover
and water pump assembly on the cylinder
block alignment dowels.
7. Coat the threads of the attaching
bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install
the timing pointer and attaching bolts.
8. Install thb front crankshaft seal
into the cylinder front cover with the tool .
shown in Fig. 20.
the oil seal rubbing surface of the
vibration damper inner hub to prevent
damage to the seal. Apply a white lead and
oil mixture to the front of the crankshaft
from damper installation.
10. Line up the crankshaft vibration
crankshaft. Install the vibration damper on
the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install the cap
screw and washer. Tighten the cap screw
to specifications. Install the crankshaft
pulley.
11. Connect me heater hose and the
lower radiator hose at the water pump.
install the lower idler pulley and
compressor to water pum:? bracket.
install the power steering pump brackets.
alternator and
14. Install \he
brackets.
8-53

21. Fill the crankcase with the proper
grade and quantity of engine oil Fill and
bleed the cooling system.
22. Connect the battery. Operate the
engine until normal operating temperature
has been reached and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT
The camshaft and related parts are

shown in Fig. 25.
REMOVAL
FIG. 23- Removing or Installing Timing

Chain
1. Drain
the
cooling system.
Disconnect the upper and lower radiator
hoses at the radiator. If equipped with
automatic transmission, disconnect the oil
cooler lines at the radiator. Remove the
radiator and grille. If equipped with air
conditioning, remove the condenser.
2. Remove the cylinder front cover,
fuel pump and the timing chain following
the procedure under the Cylinder Front
Cover and Timing Chain Removal.
3. Remove the intake manifold
following the procedure under Intake
Manifold Removal.
covers. Loosen the valve rocker arm
fulcrum bolts and rotate the rocker arms
to the side.
5. Remove the valve push roads and
identify them so that they can be installed
6. Using a magnet, remove the valve
lifters and place them in a rack so that
they can be installed in their original bores
(Fig. 26);
If the valve lifters are stuck in their
bores by excessive varnish, etc., it may be
necessary to use a plier-type tool
or a claw type tool to remove the lifters.
Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen
it from the gum or varnish that may have
formed at the lifter.
plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by
pulling toward the front of the engine. Use
CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SLINGER
FIG. 26- Removing Valve Lifter
caution to avoid damasffig the camshaft

bearings.
INSTALLATION
Camshaft lobes are to be coated with
Lubriplate or equivalent and the journals
lubricated with heavy engine oil MS before
installation.
1. Oil the camshaft journals and
apply Lubriplate to the lobes. Carefully
slide the bamshaft through the bearings.
Install the camshaft thrust plate onto the
cylinder block. Check camshaft end play
as shown on page 8-ll
2. Install the valve lifters in the
bores from which they were removed.
3. Install the timing chain, fuel
pump cylinder front cover and related
parts following steps 1 thru 13 under
Installation.
specifications.
5. Install the push rods in their
original positions.
6. With No. 1 piston at TDC at the
end of the compression stroke, POSITION
A in Fig. 5, apply Lubriplate or equivalent
to the valve stem tips. Lubricate the
rocker arms and fulcrum seats with heavy
engine oil MS. Install the rocker arms and
A3252-A
FIG. 24 - Fuel Pump Eccentric and Front

Oil Slinger Installed

on the water pump shaft and install the
drive belts.
bolts.
specifications.
19. Raise the vehicle. Remove the oil
pan and install new gaskets and seals
following procedures under Oil Pan
Removal and Installation.
20. Lower the vehicle.
TIMING CHAIN - 6268 AND

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET- 6256
CAMSHAFT
REAR BEARING
BORE PLUG
6266
CAMSHAFT
BOLT
1
~~
~
~
~PUMP
TWO PIECE FUEL

ECCENTRIC- 6287
FIG. 25- Camshaft and Related Parts
6250
A325J.A
8-54
perform a valve clearance check on the
following valves:
No.4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust.
B shown in Fig. 5 and install the push
rods, apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the
valve stem tips, install the rocker arms and
perform a valve stem clearance check on
C shown in Fig. 5 and install the push
rods, apply Lubriplate to the valve stem
tips, install the rocker arms and perform a
valve stem clearance check on the
following valves:
7. Clean the valve rocker arm covers
and the cylinder head gasket surfaces.
Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of
new cover gaskets. Lay the cemented side
of the gaskets in place in the covers.
8. Position the covers on the
cylinder heads. Make sure the gasket seats
evenly all around the head. Install the
bolts. The cover is tightened in two steps.
Torque the bolts to specifications. Two
minutes later, torque the bolts to the same
specifications. .
9. Install the intake manifold, distributor and related parts by following
procedures under Intake Manifold Installation.
10. Connect the accelerator cable and
retracting spring. Install the vacuum lines
that were disconnected from the intake
manifold during removal.
11. Clean and install the crankcase
ventilation system.
harness brackets on the valve rocker arm
covers and connect the wires to the plugs.
Connect the high tension lead at the coil.
13. If. equipped with air conditioning,
install the condensor.
14. Place the radiator shroud over the
fan. Install the radiator and connect the
hoses. If equipped with automatic
transmission, connect the oil cooler lines
at the radiator. Install the radiator shroud
attaching bolts.
15. Raise the vehicle. Remove the oil
pan and install new gaskets and seals
following procedures under Oil Pan
Removal and Installation.
Lower the vehicle.
16. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
Fill the crankcase with the proper grade
and quantity of engine oil.
17. Start the engine and check and
adjust the ignition timing. Connect the
distributor vacuum lines.
18. Operate the engine at fast idle and
check all hose connections and gaskets for
leaks. When the engine temperature has
GROUP 8- ENGINE
stabilized adjust the engine idle speed and
idle fuel mixture.
19. Adust the transmission throttle
linkage. Install the air cleaner and intake
duct assembly.
CAMSHAFT REAR BEARING BORE
PLUG

(Fig. 26) ;
If the valve lifters cannot be removed
from their bores due to excessive varnish,
etc., it may be necessary to use a
plier-type tool or a claw type tool to
remove the lifters. Rotate the lifter back
and forth to loosen it from the gum or
varnish that may have formed at the
lifter.
REMOVAL
1. On a vehicle with a manual-shift
transmission, remove the transmission,
clutch pressure plate and disc following
On a vehicle with an automatic
transmission, remove the transmission and
converter housing following the procedure
in Group 7.
2. Remove the flywheel attaching
bolts and remove the flywheel. Remove
the engine rear cover plate.
3. Remove the core plug.
INSTALLATION
1. Using tool T70P-6011-A, install
the core plug.
2. Coat the flywheel attaching bolts
with oil-resistant sealer. Position the
engine rear cover plate on the cylinder
block dowels. Position the flywheel on the
crankshaft flange. Install and torque the
attaching bolts in sequence across from
each other to specifications.
On a vehicle with a manual-shift
transmission, install the clutch pressure
plate, disc and the transmission following
transmission, install the transmission and
converter housing following the procedure
in Group 7.
VALVE LIFTER
Before replacing a hydraulic valve

lifter for noisy operation, be sure the noise
is not caused by incorrect valve lash or by
worn rocker arms or push rods.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake manifold and
related parts by following procedures
under Intake Manifold Removal.
2. Remove the crankcase ventilation
regulator valve from the valve rocker arm
cover.
covers. Loosen the valve rocker arm
fulcrum bolts and rotate the rocker arms
to the side.
4. Remove the valve push rods and
identify them so that they can be installed
INSTALLATION
Tappets or lifters and bores are to be
lubricated with heavy engine oil MS before
installation.
1. aean and install the valve lifters
in the bores from which they were
removed. If a new lifter(s) is being
installed, check the new lifter(s) for a free
fit in the bore in which it is to be installed.
Lubricate the lifter(s) and bore(s) with
heavy engine oil MS before inserting it in
the bore.
2. Install the push rods in their
original position. Apply Lubriplate or
equivalent to the valve stem tips.
3. Position the No. 1 piston on TDC
POSITION A in Fig. 5. Lubricate with
heavy engine oil MS and install the rocker
arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the
following valves:
B, Fig. 5. Lubricate and install the rocker
following valves:
C, Fig. 5. Lubricate and install the rocker
folloWing valves:
Be sure that the fulcrum seat bue ia
inlerted in ita slot on the cylinder head
before tightenm, the attachm, bolt.
Tighten the fulcrum bolts to
specification. Check the valve clearance
following the procedure under Valve
Oearance - Checking Procedure.
covers. Install the crankcase ventilation
regulator valve in the valve rocker arm
cover.
S. Install the intake manifold and
related parts by following procedures
under Intake Manifold Installation.
VALVE LIFTER DISASSEMBLY
The internal parts of each hydraulic

valve lifter assembly are matched seta. Do
not intermix the parts. Keep the
8-55
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES

assemblies intact until they are to be
cleaned.
The disassembly and assembly
procedures for Types I and II valve lifters
are different. Valve lifters should always
be tested after assembly; refer to the test
procedures covered on page 8-9.
TYPE I
a:!, /
'.(I )
/CHECK VALVE SPRING
COC. .NG
Assembly
Type I hydraulic lifter assembly is

shown in Fig. 27.
1. Place the plunger upside down on
a clean work bench.
2. Place the check valve (disc or ball
check) in position over the oil hole on the
bottom of the plunger. Set the check valve
spring on top of the check valve (disc or
ball check).
3. Position the check valve retainer
over the check valve and spring and push
the retainer down into place on the
plunger.
4. Place the plunger spring, and then
the plunger (open end up) into the lifter
body.
5. Position the metering valve (disc)
in the plunger, and then place the push
rod cup in the plunger.
6. Depress the plunger, and position
the closed end of the lock ring in the
groove of the lifter body. With the plunger
still depressed, position the open ends of
the lock ring in the groove. Release the
plunger, and then depress it again to fully
seat the lock ring.
7. Use the hydraulic valve lifter
leakdown tester (pageS-9 ) to fill the lifters
with test fluid .
TYPE II
Disassembly
Each valve lifter is a rna tched

assembly. If parts of one lifter are
intermixed with those of another,
improper valve operation may result.
PLUNGER SPRING
,,,~
cuNG"
UPPER METERING
r~~7'"'
BODY
CHECK VALVE
RETAINER
Disassembly
Disassemble and assemble each lifter

separately. Identify the lifter assemblies so
bores.
1. Grasp the lock ring with needle
nose pliers to release it from the groove. It
may be necessary to depress the plunger to
ful.\y release lock ring.
metering valve (disc), plunger and spring.
3. Remove the plunger assembly, the
check valve and the check valve retainer
and plunger spring. Carefully remove the
plunger spring, the check valve retainer
and, the check valve disc from the plunger.
CHECK VALVE
,- ~~
- 'j
ul /)"::::. ""
PUSH ROD
PUSH ROD METERING VALVE
~TI':' J. j~~
VALVE
A2867-A
FIG. 27- Type 1 Hydraulic Valve Lifter

Assembly
LOCK RING
PLUNGER
SPRING
BODY
LIFTER ASSEMBLY
6500
A 2505-.l
FIG. 28- Type II Hydraulic Valve Lifter

Assembly
Disassemble and assemble each lifter

separately. Keep the lifter assemblies in
proper sequence so they can be installed in
their original bores.
1. Grasp the lock ring with needle
nose pliers to release it from the groove. It
may be necessary to depress the plunger to
fully release lock ring.
metering valve disc, and the upper
metering valve. Do not bend the metering
valve or the valve tensioning finger.
3. Remove the plunger assembly, the
check valve and the check valve retainer
and plunger spring. Carefully remove the
plunger spring, the check valve retainer
and the check valve disc from the plunger.
Assembly
Type II hydraulic lifter assembly is

shown in Fig. 28.
1. Place the plunger on a clean work
surface (table or bench) in an inverted
position and center the check valve disc on
it. Carefully slide the check valve over the
disc and down until it bottoms. A slight
turning motion will help this. Use every
precaution not to distort it in any way, or
to bend the preformed fingers. With a
slight turning motion slide the plunger
spring over the metering valve and d~wn
until it seats.
2. Leaving the assembly in the
inverted position, slide the lifter body
down over the spring until it slightly
compresses the spring.
3. Position the combined assembly
right side up on the work surface (table or
bench).
4. Position the upper metering valve
in the plunger taking care not to tilt it to
either side, and not to damage or bend the
valve tensioning finger. Place the metering
valve disc over the metering valve and
install the push rod cup. Depress the cup
and install the lock ring.
leakdown tester to fill the lifters with
test fluid.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT
Replacement of a crankshaft rear oil

seal because of oil leakage requires
replacement of both the upper and lower
seals. Refer to Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
Replacement on page 8-55for "replacement
procedure.
MAIN BEARINGS
The main bearing inserts are selective

fit. Refer to procedures under Fitting
Main and Connecting Rod Bearings.
REMOVAL
1. Drain the crankcase. Remove the
oil level dipstick. Remove the oil pan and
related parts.
tube assembly.
3.
Replace one bearing at a time,
leaving the other bearings securely
fastened. Remove the main bearing cap to
which new bearings are to be installed.
4. Insert the upper bearing removal
tool in the oil hole in the crankshaft.
5. Rotate the crankshaft in the

direction of the engine rotation to force
the bearing out of the block.
6. If the rear main bearing is being
replaced, remove and discard the rear oil
seal from the bearing cap.
Loosen all main bearing bolts, thereby
lowering the crankshaft slightly but not to
exceed 1/32 inch. Remove the block half
of the rear oil seal. Use a seal removal tool
or install a small metal screw in one end of
the seal, and pull on the screw to remove
the seal. Be careful not to burr the
crankshaft seal rubbing surface.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-56
INSTALL SEAL WITH LIP

TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE
FRONT OF ENGINE
SEAL HALVES TO PROTRUDE BEYOND PARTING FACES

THIS DI STANCE TO ALLOW FOR CAP TO BLOCK ALIGNMENT
3/ 8"
REAR FACE OF REAR MAIN

BEARING CAP AND CY LI NDER BLOCK
VIEW LOOKING AT PARTING FACE

OF SPLIT, LIP TYPE CRANKSHAFT SEAL
A 2639-B
FIG. 29- Installing Crankshaft Rear Oil

Seal
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
SEALER
FIG. 30- Seeler Application to Rear Main

Bearing Cap
INSTALLATION
replaced, clean the rear oil seal groove in
the block with a brush and solvent.
Carefully install the upper seal (split
lip type) into its groove with the undercut
side of the seal toward the FRONT of the
engine (Fig. 29) by rotating it on the seal
journal
of
the
crankshaft
until
approximately 3/8 inch protrudes below
the parting surface.
Be sure no rubber has been shaved
from the outside diameter of the seal by
the bottom edge of the groove.
Tighten the bolts on main bearings 1,
2, 3, and 4, thereby raising the crankshaft
to its original position. Torque the bolts to
specifications.
2. Clean the crankshaft journals.
Inspect the journals and thrust faces
(thrust bearing) for nicks, burrs or bearing
pick-up that would cause premature
bearing wear.
3. To install the upper main bearing,
place the plain end of the bearing over the
Lubricate the journal with engine oil

and install the thrust bearing cap with the
bolts fmger-tight. Pry the crankshaft
forward against the thrust surface of the
upper half of the bearing (Fig. 44). Hold
the crankshaft cap to the rear. This will
align the thrust surfaces of. both halves of
the bearing. Retain the forward pressure
on the crankshaft. Torque the cap bolts to
specifications.
screen. Prime by filling the inlet opening
with oil and rotate the pump shaft until
oil emerges from the outlet opening.
Install the oil pump and the inlet tube
assembly.
12. Position the oil pan gaskets on the
oil pan. Position the oil pan front seal on
the cylinder front cover. Position the oil
pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap.
Install the oil pan and related parts. Install
the oil level dipstick.
engine and check for oil pressure. Operate
the engine at fast idle and check for oil
leaks.
shaft on the locking tang side of the block

and partially install the bearing so that
tool 6331 can be inserted in the oil hole in
the crankshaft. With tool 6331 positioned
in the oil hole in the crankshaft, rotate the
crankshaft in the opposite direction of
engine rotation until the bearing seats
itself. Remove the tool.
4. Replace the cap bearing.
5. Select fit the bearing for proper
clearance following procedures under
Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings
in Part 8-1.
6. If the bearing is being replaced on
journal number 1, 2 or 4, apply a light
coat of engine oil to the journal and
bearings and install the bearing cap.
Tighten the cap bolts to specifications.
replaced, clean the oil seal groove with a
brush and solvent.
8. Install the lower seal in the rear
main bearing cap with undercut side of
seal toward the FRONT of the engine
(Fig. 29) allow the seal to protrude
approximately 3/8 inch above the parting
surface to mate with the upper seal when
the cap is installed.
9. Apply a thin coating of
oil-resistant sealer to the rear main bearing
cap at the rear of the top mating surface
(Fig. 30). Do not apply sealer to the area
forward of the oil slinger groove.
Lubricate the journal with engine oil and
install the rear main bearing cap with the
rear surface flush or slightly forward of
the rear of the cylinder block. Tighten the
10. If the thrust bearing cap (No. 3
main bearing) has been removed, install it
as follows:
The connecting rod bearings are

selective fit. Refer to procedures under
Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings
on page 8.33 .
REMOVAL
1. Drain the crankcase. Remove the
oil level dipstick. Remove the oil pan and
related parts.
tube assembly.
3. Tum the crankshaft until the
connecting rod to which new bearings are
to be fitted is down. Remove the
connecting rod cap. Remove the bearing
inserts from the rod and cap.
INSTALLATION
1. Be sure the bearing inserts and the
bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap
are clean. Foreign material under the
inserts will distort the bearing and cause a
failure.
3. Install the bearing inserts in the
connecting rod and cap with the tangs
fitting in the slots provided.
4. Pull the connecting rod assembly
down frrmly on the crankshaft journal.
5. Select fit the bearing following
procedures under Fitting Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8-33..
6. After the bearing has been fitted,
clean and apply a light coat of engine oil
to the journal and bearings. Install the
connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to
specifications.
8-57
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENG INES

screen. Prime by filling the inlet opening
with oil and rotate the pump shaft until
oil emerges from the outlet opening.
Install the oil pump and the inlet tube
assembly.
8. Position the oil pan gaskets on the
oil pan. Position the oil pan front seal on
the cylinder front cover. Position the oil
pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap.
Install the oil pan and related parts. Install
the oil level dipstick.
engine and check for oil pressure. Operate
the engine at fast idle and check for oil
leaks.
OIL RING SPACER
FIG. 32- Installing Piston
PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system and the
crankcase. Remove the intake manifold,
cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump,
following the procedures in this section.
2. Remove any
ridges and/or
cylinder bores as follows:
Tum the crankshaft until the piston
to be removed is at the bottom of its
travel and place a cloth on the piston head
to collect the cuttings. Remove any ridge
and/or deposits from the upper end of the
cylinder bores. Remove the cylinger ridge
with a ridge cutter. . Follow the
instructions furnished by the tool
manufacturers. Never cut into the ring
travel area in excess of 1/32 inch when
removing ridges.
3. Make sure all connecting rod caps
are marked so that they can be installed in
their original positions.
connecting rod being removed is down.
S. Remove the connecting rod nuts
and cap.
cylinder with the handle end of a hammer.
Avoid damage to the crankshaft journal or
the cylinder wall when removing the
piston and rod.
7. Remove the bearing inserts from
the connecting rod and cap.
8. Install the cap on the connecting
rod from which it was removed.
INSTALLATION
1. If new piston rings are to be
installed, remove the cylinder wall glaze.
Follow the instructions of the tool
manufacturer.
2. Oil the piston rings, pistons and
cylinder walls with light engine oil. Be sure
to install the pistons in the same cylinders
from which they were removed or to
which they were fitted. The connecting
rod aud bearing caps are numbered from 1
to 4 in the right bank and from 5 to 8 in
the left bank, beginning at the front of the
FIG. 31 -Piston Ring Spacing
engine. The numbers on the connecting

rod and bearing cap must be on the same
side when installed in the cylinder bore. If
a connecting rod is ever transposed from
one block or cylinder to another, new
bearings should be fitted and the
connecting rod should be numbered to
correspond with the new cylinder number.
properly spaced around the circumference
of the piston (Fig. 31);
4. Install a piston ring compressor
on the piston and push the piston in with
a hammer handle until it is slightly below
the top of the cylinder (Fig. 32). Be sure
to guide the connecting rods to avoid
damaging the crankshaft journals. Install
the piston with the arrow on the piston
head toward the front of the engine.
bearing following the procedure under
Fitting Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings on page 8-33.
.fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to
the journals and bearings.
7. Turn the crankshaft throw to the
bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all
the way down until the connecting rod
bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.
9. After the piston and connecting
rod assemblies have been installed, check
the side clearance between the connecting
rods on each crankshaft journal (Fig. 33).
10. Disassemble, clean, and assemble
the oil pump. Clean the oil pump inlet
tube screen and the oil pan and block
gasket surfaces.
either the inlet port or outlet port with
engine oil and rotating the pump shaft to
distribute the oil within the hou sing.
Install the oil pump and the oil pan.
the
cylinder
heads
12. Install
following procedures under Cylinder Head
Installation.
FIG. 33 - Checking Connecting Rod Side

Cl earance
13. Install the intake manifold

following procedures under Intake
Manifold installation.
and quantity of engine oil.
1S. Start the engine and check and
adj ust the ignition timing. Connect the
distributor vacuum hose at the distributor.
until it reaches normal operating
temperature and check for oil and coolant
leaks. When the engine temperature has
stabilized adjust the engine idle speed and
idle fuel mixture.
duct assembly.
DISASSEMBLY
the connecting rod and cap.
2. Mark the pistons and pins to
assure assembly with the same rod and
installation in the same cylinders from
which they were removed.
3. Remove the piston rings. Using an
Arbor Press aPd the tool shown in Fig. 34,
press the piston pin from the piston and
connecting rod.
8-58
GROUP 8- ENGINE
L,J-.. . . ..
ASSEMBLY
The piston. connecting rod and

related parts are shown in Fig. 35. Check
the fit of a new piston in the cylinder bore
before assembling the piston and piston
pin to the connecting rod.
The piston pin bore of a connecting
rod and the diameter of the piston p_in
must be within specifications. Refer
specifications.
1. Apply a light coat of engine oil to
all parts. Assemble the piston to the
connecting rod with the cylinder number
side of the connecting rod and the arrow
on the piston positioned as shown in Fig.
36. On replacement connecting rods,
install the large-chamfered side of the
connecting rod bearing bore towards the
crankshaft cheek ; facing towards front of
engine on right bank rods, and facing
towards rear of engine on left bank rods.
2. Start the piston pin in the piston
and connecting rod (this may require a
very light tap with a mallet). Using an
Arbor Press and the tool shown in Fig. 34,
press the piston pin through the piston
and connecting rod until the pin is
centered in the piston.
3. Check the end gap of all piston
rings (page 8-18 ). It must be within
specifications. Follow the instructions
contained on the piston ring package and
install the piston rings.
4. Check the ring side clearance of
the compression rings with a feeler gauge
inserted between the ring and its lower
land. The gauge should slide freely around
the entire ring circumfere1:1ce without
binding. Any wear that occurs will forrn a
step at the inner portion of the lower land.
If the lower lands have high steps, the
piston should be replaced.
5. Be sure the bearing inserts and the
bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap
are clean. Foreign material under the
inserts will distort the bearing and cause a
failure. Install the bearing inserts in the
connecting rod and cap with tangs fitting
in the slots provided.
RICHT BANK
NUMBERED SIDE OF ROD
LEFT BANK
A326().A
FIG. 36- Correct Piston and Rod Positions
INSERT
TAPERED PILOT
1
.....,...-
Reversible
locator Detail A-5 ~
Fri~ ~~I~T~~:ri~AL
INSERT THI S END
IN PIS TON HOLE
- FOR INSTALLATION
~Adapter Detail
A-3
T68P-6135-A
Cup Detail A-1
A3258-8
FIG. 37- Removing Clutch Pilot Bearing

FIG. 34 - Removing or Installing Piston Pin
attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer.

Position the flywheel on the crankshaft
flange. Install and torque the bolts in
sequence across from each other to
specifications.
transmission, check the flywheel runout,
following the procedure in Part 8-1 and
install the clutch pressure plate, disc and
the transmission following the procedures
in Group 6.
On a veh!de with an automatic transmission, check the flywheel runout, and
install the transmission and converter .
housing following procedure in Group 7.
FLYWHEEL
REMOVAL
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL

transmission, remove the transmission,
clutch pressure plate and disc following
On a vehicle with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and
converter housing following the procedure in Group 7.
2. Remove the flywheel attaching
belts and remove the flywheel.
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the threads of the flywheel
1. Remove the transmission, clutch

pressure plate and disc, following the
procedures in Group 6.
2. Remove the pilot bearing as
shown in Fig. 37.
A3259.A
FIG. 35- Piston, Connecting Rod and

Related Parts
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the pilot bearing bore in the

crankshaft with a small quantity of wheel
bearing lubricant. Avoid using too much
lubricant as it may be thrown onto the
clutch disc when the clutch revolves.
8-59
PART .8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES

2. Install the pilot service bearing as
shown in Fig. 38.
3. Install the clutch pressure plate,
disc and the transmission, following the
procedures in Group 6.
Tooi-7600-H
Al262-A
FIG. 38- Installing Clutch Pilot Bearing
OIL FILTER
FIG. 40- Oil Pan Gaskst and Ssals Installed
CARTRIDGE-TYPE OIL
FILTER
4. Position the oil pan front seal on

the cylinder front cover. Be sure the tabs
on the seal are over the oil pan gasket.
5. Position the oil pan rear seal on
the rear main bearing cap (Fig. 40). Be
sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil
pan gasket.
6. Position the oil pan against the
block and install a bolt, finger-tight, on
each side of the block. Install the
remaining bolts. Tighten the bolts from
the center outward in each direction to
specifications.
7. Raise the engine and remove the
wood blocks from between the engine
supports and chassis brackets. Lower the
engine and install the engine support
through bolts. Tighten the bolts to
specifications.
8. Install the sway bar to chassis
attaching bolts.
9. Install the starter and connect the
starter cab!e.
bolts.
12. Install the oil level dipstick. Fill
the crankcase with the proper grade and
quantity of engine oil. Start the engine
and operate at idle speed until it reaches
normal operating temperature. Check for
leaks.
OIL PUMP
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
The oil filter assembly is shown in Fig.
39.
1.
Removal
Place a drip pan under the filter.
Unscrew the filter from the adapter fitting
and clean the adapter recess.
.,
ADAPTER FITTING
REMOVAL
FILTER ELEMENT
A2875-A
FIG. 39- CartridgeTyps Oil Filtsr
Installation
1. Coat the gasket on a new filter
with oil. Place the new filter in position on
the adapter fitting. Hand tighten the filter
until the gasket contacts the adapter face,
and then advance it 1/2 turn.
and check for oil leaks. If oil leaks are
evident, perform the necessary repairs to
correct leakage. Check the oil level and fill
the crankcase if necessary.
Remove the oil level dipstick.

bolts and position the fan shroud over the
fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Drain the crankcase.
5. Disconnect the starter cable and
remove the starter.
6. Remove the sway bar attaching
bolts from the chassis and lower the sway
bar for clearance.
7. Remove the engine front support
through bolts.
8. Raise the engine and place wood
blocks between the engine supports and
chassis brackets.
9. Remove the oil pan attaching
bolts.
10. If equipped with an automatic
transmission, position the oil cooler lines
out of the way.
11. Remove the oil pan.
INSTALLATION
block and oil pan. The oil pan has a
two-piece gasket.
2. Clean the oil pump pick-up tube
and screen.
3. Coat the block surface and the oil
pan gasket with sealer. Position the oil pan
gaskets on the cylinder block (Fig. 40).

parts as outlined under Oil Pan Removal.
2. Remove the oil pump attaching
bolts and remove the oil pump with pick
up tube and screen, gasket and
intermediate drive shaft.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean and install the oil pump
inlet tube and screen assembly (Fig. 41).
either the inlet or outlet port with engine
oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute
the oil within the pump body.
3. Position the intermediate drive
shaft into the distributor socket. With the
shaft firmly seated in the distributor
socket, the stop on the shaft should touch
the roof of the crankcase. Remove the
shaft and position the stop as necessary.
pump housing. With the stop properly
po$itioned, insert the intermediate drive
shaft into the oil pump. Install the pump
and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt
to force the pump into position if it wiD
not seat readily. The drive shaft hex may
be misaligned with the distributor shaft.
To align, rotate the intermediate drive
shaft into a new position. Tighten the oil
pump attaching screw to specifications.
Be sure the oil pick up screen is
parallel with the oil pan mounting surface.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-60
parts as outlined under Oil Pan
Installation.
3. Insert a self-threading sheet metal

screw of the proper diameter into the oil
pressure relief valve chamber cap and pull
the cap out of the chamber. Remove the
spring and plunger.
DISASSEMBLY
I. Remove the oil inlet tube from
the oil pump.
2. Remove the cover attaching
screws, then remove the cover. Remove
the inner rotor and shaft assembly, then
remove the outer race.
ASSEMBLY
The oil pump assembly is shown in
Fig. 42.
1. Oil all parts thoroughly.

2. Install the oil pressure relief valve
plunger, spring and a new cap.

3. Install the outer race and the
inner rotor and shaft assembly. Be sure the
dimple (identification mark) on the outer
race is facing outward and on same side as
identification mark on rotor. The race
rotor and shaft and the outer race are
serviced as an assembly. One part should
not be replaced without replacing the
other. Install the cover and tighten the
cover attaching screws to specifications.
4. Install the oil inlet tube and
screen assembly on the oil pump.
OIL RELIEF VALVE

ASSEMBLY
A326S.A
FIG. 41 - Oil Pump and Inlet Tube Installed
FIG. 42- Oil Pump Assembly
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
I. Disconnect the battery, drain the

cooling system and remove the hood.
duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the upper radiator
hose at the engine and the lower hose at
the radiator. On vehicles equipped with
automatic transmission, disconnect the oil
cooler lines at the radiator.
Remove the fan shroud attaching
bolts and position the shroud over the fan.
Remove the radiator and shroud.
5. Remove the fan and spacer.
6. On vehicles equipped with air
conditioning, loosen the idler pulley and
the drive belt.
8. On vehicles with power steering,
loosen and remove the power steering
pump drive belt.
10. On vehicles with power steering,
remove the power steering pump brackets
and position the pump out of the way in
an upright position to prevent fluid loss.
11. On vehicles equipped with air

conditioning, isolate and remove the
compressor.
12. Remove the alternator and
bracket. Position the alternator out of the
way. Disconnect the alternator ground
wire from the cylinder block.
13. Disconnect the heater hoses at the
block and water pump.
14. Remove the ground wires from
the cylinder block and right cylinder head.
15. Disconnect the fuel line at the
fuel pump. Plug the fuel tank line.
Disconnect the vacuum lines at the rear of
the intake manifold.
16. Disconnect the accelerator cable
or linkage at the carburetor and in take
manifold.
Disconnect
transmission
downshift linkage, if so equipped.
17. Disconnect the engine wire loom
at the ignition coil, water temperature
sending unit and oil pressure sending unit.
Remove the wire loom from the hold
down clips.
18. Raise the vehicle and secure with
safety stands.
19. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe
at the exhaust manifolds.
20. Disconnect the starter cable and

remove the starter.
21. Remove the engine front support
through bolts and the starter cable clamp
at the right front engine support.
22. If equipped with automatic
transmission, remove the converter
inspection cover and disconnect the
flywheel from the converter. Remove the
downshift rod.
Remove the four lower converter
housing-to-engine block bolts and the
adapter plate-to-converter housing bolt.
On vehicles equipped with a manual
transmission, remove the clutch slave
cylinder from the cylinder block and
remove
the
four
lower
bell
housing-to-engine block bolts.
24. Remove the two upper converter
or bell housing bolts.
25 . Attach engine lifting sling, Tool
No. T53L-300.A, and hoist to lifting
brackets at exhaust manifolds.
26. Position a jack under the
transmission.
27. Raise the engine slightly and
carefully pull it from the transmission.
8-61

Carefully lift the engine out of the engine
compartment so that the rear cover plate
is not bent or components damaged.
Install the engine on a WOlk stand.
INSTALLATION
1. Attach engine lifting sling, Tool

No. T53L-300-A, and hoist to lifting
brackets at exhaust manifolds. Remove
engine from work stand.
2. Lower the engine carefully into
the engine compartment. Make sure the
exhaust manifolds are properly aligned
with the muffler inlet pipes.
transmission, start the converter pilot into
the crankshaft.
On a vehicle with a manual-shift
transmission, start the transmission main
drive gear into the clutch disc. It may be
necessary to adjust the position of the
transmission in relation to the engine if
the input shaft will not enter the clutch
disc. If the engine hangs up after the shaft
enters, tum the crankshaft slowly
(transmission in gear) until the shaft
splines mesh with the clutch disc splines.
3. Install the bell housing or
converter housing upper bolts, making
sure that the dowels in the cylinder block
engage the flywheel housing. Remove the
jack from under the transmission.
4. Remove the lifting sling.
5. On
automatic
transmission
equipped vehicles, position the downshift
rod on the transmission and engine.
6. Raise the vehicle and secure with
safety stands.
7. On a vehicle with an automatic
transmission, position the transmission
linkage bracket and install the remaining
converter housing bolts. Install the adapter
plate-to-converter housing bolt. Install the
converter-to-flywheel nuts and install the
inspection cover. Connect the downshift
rod on the transmission.
On a vehicle with a manual
transmission, install the lower bell housing
bolts and replace the clutch slave cylinder.
8. Install the starter and connect the
cable.
9. Connect the muffler inlet pipes at
the exhaust manifolds.
10. Install the engine front support
through bolts and install the starter cable
clamp at the right front engine support.
12. Install the ground wire at the
right cylinder head. Install the engine wire
loom and connect it to the ignition coil,
water temperature sending unit and oil
pressure sending unit.
13. Install the accelerator linkage and
connect the downshift rod, if so equipped.
14. Connect the vacuum lines at the
rear of the intake manifold. Connect the
fuel tank line at the fuel pump.
15. Connect the ground wire at the

right front of cylinder block. Install the
heater hoses at the water pump and
cylinder block.
16. Install the alternator and bracket.
Connect the alternator ground wire to the
cylinder block.
17. On
a
vehicle
with
air
conditioning, install the air conditioning
compressor and brackets.
18.- On a vehicle with power steering,
install the power steering pump and
brackets.
19. Install the water pump pulley, fan
and spacer. Install the drive belts on their
respective pulleys and adjust the belt
20. Position the fan shroud over the
fan. Install the radiator and connect the
upper and lower radiator hoses. Insta1l the
fan shroud attaching bolts.
and quantity of oil Adjust the
transmission downshift linkage, if so
equipped. Connect the battery.
until it reaches normal operating
temperature and check all gaskets and
hose connections for leaks. Adjust ignition
time and idle speed.
23. Install the air cll'.aner and intake
duct. Install and adjust the hood.

must be torqued (to specifications), oil
the threads with light weight engine oil.
Do not oil threads that require oil-resistant
section, it will be necessary to remove the
engine from the vehicle and install it on a
work stand as previously described.
Refer to page 8-15 for cleaning and
inspection procedures.
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft and related parts are

shown in Fig. 43.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the spark plug wires at
the spark plugs and remove the wires from
the ignition harness brackets on the valve
rocker arm covers. Disconnect the
coil-to-distributor cap and spark plug wire
assembly. Remove the spark plugs to allow
easy rotation of the crankshaft.
2. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet
line at the pump. Remove the fuel pump
from the cylinder block. Remove the
alternator and mounting brackets.

Remove the cap screw and washer from
the end of the crankshaft. Install the
puller on the crankshaft vibration damper
(Fig. 18) and remove the damper.
Remove the water pump and cylinder
front cover as an assembly. Discard the
gasket and remove the crankshaft front oil
slinger.
5. Check that the timing chain
deflection does not exceed 0.5 inches.
Remove the camshaft sprocket cap screw,
washer and two piece fuel pump eccentric.
Slide both sprockets and the timing chain
forward and remove them as an assembly
(Fig. 23).
stand. Remove the clutch pressure plate
and disc (manual-shift transmission).
Remove the flywheel and engine rear
cover plate. Remove the oil pan and
gasket. Remove the oil pump.
7. Make sure all bearing caps (main
and connecting rod) are marked so that
locations. Turn the crankshaft until the
connecting rod from which the cap is
being removed is down, and remove the
bearing cap. Push the connecting rod and

piston assembly up into the cylinder.
Repeat this procedure until all the
connecting rod bearing caps are removed.
of the block so that the thrust bearing
surfaces are not damaged. Handle the
crankshaft with care to avoid possible
fracture or damage to the fmished
surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the rear journal oil seal
from the block and rear main bearing cap.
2. Remove the main bearing inserts
from the block and bearing caps.
3. Clean the rear journal oil seal
groove and the mating surfaces of the
block and rear main bearing cap.
4. Remove the connecting rod
bearing inserts from the connecting rods
and caps.
journals have been refmished to a defmite
undersize, install the correct undersize
bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and
bearing bores are clean. Foreign material
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-62
MAIN BEARING
INSERTS
AJ266-A
FIG. 43- Crankshaft and Related Parts
PRY FORWARD
PRY CAP
BACKWARD
THRUST BEARING
FIG. 44 -Aligning Thrust Bearing
under the inserts will distort the bearing

and cause a failure.
6. Place the upper main bearing
inserts in position in the bores with the
tang fitting in the slot provided.
8. Dip the lip seal halves in clean
engine oil. Install the lip seals in the
bearing cap and block with the undercut
engine as shown in Fig. 29.
into place. Be careful not to damage the
bearing surface.
10. Check the clearance of each main
Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8-33.

fitted, apply a thin coating of oil-resistant
sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the
rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 32).
Do nGt apply sealer to the area forward of
the oil slinger groove.
12. Apply heavy engine oil MS to the
journals and bearings.
13 . Install the rear main bearing cap
with the rear surface flush or slightly
ahead of the rear of the cylinder block.
Install all bearing caps, except the thrust
bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). Be sure that
the main bearing caps are installed in their
original locations. Torque the bearing cap

14. Install the thrust bearing cap with
the bolts finger-tight.
15. Pry the crankshaft forward
against the thrust surface of the upper half
of the bearing (Fig. 44).
16. Hold the crankshaft forward and
pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear. This
will align the thrust surfaces of both halves
of the bearing.
17. Retain the forward pressure on
the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to
specifications.
18. Force the crankshaft toward the
rear of the engine.
8-63
PART 8-4- 302-351 C. I. D. VB ENGINES

(wear limit 0.012 inches).
20. Install the timing chain and
sprockets, cylinder front cover and fuel
pump, following steps 1 thru 8 under
Installation.
21. Install the engine rear cover plate
onto the alignment dowels at the rear of
the cylinder block.
22. Coat the threads of the flywheel
attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer.
Position the flywheel on the crankshaft
flange. Install and tighten the bolts to
specifications.
transmission, use tool 7550 A to locate
the clutch disc. install the pressure pl'ate.
Tighten the attaching bolts.
23. Install new bearing inserts in
the connecting rods and caps. Check the
clearance of each bearing following the
procedures under Fitting Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings on page 833 .
24. After the connecting rod bearings
have been fitted, apply a light coat of
engine oil to the journals and bearings.
25. Tum the crankshaft throw to the
bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all
the way down until the rod bearing seats
on the crankshaft journal.
27. After the piston and connecting
rod assemblies have been installed, check
the side clearance between the connecting
rods on each connecting rod crankshaft
journal (Fig. 33).
28. Clean the oil pan, oil pump and
oil pump screen. Prime the oil pump by
filling either the inlet or outlet port with
ellline oil and rotating the pump shaft to
distribute oil within the housing. Install
the oil pump and oil pan by following the
procedures under Oil Pan and Oil Pump
Installation.
29. Install the front oil seal, vibration
damper and crankshaft pulley, following
steps 10 thru 12 under Cylinder Front
Cover and Timing Chain Installation.
30. Install the spark plugs, distributor
cap and spark plug wires. Connect the
spark plug wires and high tension lead.
31. Install the engine in the vehicle.
CAMSHAFT BEARING
Camshaft bearings are available

pre-fmlshed to size for standard and
0.015-inch undersize journal diameters.
The bearings are not interchangeable from
one bore to another.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the camshaft, flywheel
and crankshaft. Push the pistons to the
top of the cylinders.
2. Remove the camshaft rear bearing
bore plug. Remove the camshaft bearings
(Fig. 45).
DETAIL-1,-2 or .J
EXPANDING COLLET
EXPANDING MANDREL
DETAIL-5
PULLER SCREW
ITool-T65L-6250-A I
DETAIL-4
PULLING PLATE
FIG. 45- Camshaft &lsring
Replset~ment
3. Select the proper size expanding

collet and back-up nut and assemble on
the expanding mandrel. With the
expanding collet collapsed, install the
collet assembly in the camshaft bearing,
and tighten the back-up nut on the
expanding mandrel until the collet fits the
camshaft bearing.
4. Assemble the puller screw and
extension (If necessary) as shown and
install on the expanding mandrel. Wrap a
cloth around the threads of the puller
screw to protect the front bearing or
journal. Tighten the pulling nut against the
thrust bearing and pulling plate to remove
the camshaft bearing. Be sure to hold a
wrench on the end of the puller screw to
prevent it from turning.
5. Repeat the procedure for each
bearing. To remove the front bearing,
install the puller screw from the rear of
the cylinder block.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the new bearings at the
bearing bores with the oil holes aligned,
and press them In place with the tool
shown In Fig. 45. Be sure to center the
pulling plate and puller screw to avoid
damage to the bearing. Failure to use the
co""t expanding collet can cauae aewre
bearing damap. Be sure the front bearlnJ
is installed the specified distance below
the front face of the cylinder block (Fia49).
2. Install the core plug.
3. Install the camshaft, crankshaft,
flywheel and related parts, except do not
check connecting rod and main bearing
clearances as a part of the Camshaft
Bearing Replacement. Install the engine in
the vehicle.
A2813-A
FIG. 46- C.mlhft Front BHrlng

Meuutwment
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY
Follow steps 1 thru 17, 19, 20 and 24
thru 27 under Engine Disassembly.
Remove 4 cylinder head dowels from the
cylinder block. Remove the cylinder block
drain plugs and remove the cylinder
assembly from the work stand.
ASSEMBLY
Clean the gasket and seal surfaces of
all parts and assemblies.
assembly on a work stand. Install the
cylinder block drain plugs and cylinder
head dowels. Transfer all parts removed
from the old cylinder assembly, following
the procedures In steps 19, 20, 24 thru 27
and 29 thru 64 under Engine Assembly.
Check all assembly clearances and correct
as necessary.
8-64
CYLINDER BLOCK REPLACEMENT
Before replacing a cylinder block,

determine if it is repairable, and make the
necessary repairs.
DISASSEMBLY
Follow steps 1 thru 17, 19 and 20
thru 32 under Engine Disassembly.
Remove the 4 cylinder head dowels and
the cylinder block drain plugs from the
cylinder block. Remove the cylinder block
from the work stand.
ASSEMBLY
Install the replacement cylinder block
on the work stand. Install the cylinder
block drain plugs and cylinder head
dowels. Transfer the parts removed from
the old cylinder block to the new cylinder
block by following steps 5 thru 64 under
Engine Assembly. Check all assembly
clearances and correct as necessary.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY AND

ASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
1. Install the engine on the work
stand.
2. Remove the distributor cap, coil
high tension wire and spark plug wires as
an assembly.
3. Disconnect the primary wire at
the coil and remove the coil.
4. Remove the alternator and
brackets from the water pump and
cylinder head.
5. Remove the crankcase emission
valve from the right rocker arm cover.
6. Disconnect the carburetor to fuel
pump line and remove the line. Remove
the carburetor.
7. Disconnect the vacuum lines at
the distributor and control valve. Remove
the distributor hold down bolt and the
distributor.
8. Remove the intake manifold
attaching bolts. Raise the intake manifold
and carefully remove it from the engine.
Discard the gasket and seals.
9. Remove the rocker arm covers.
10. Remove the rocker arm fulcrum
bolts and remove the fulcrum seats and
rocker arms. Place the rocker llrms and
fulcrum seats in order of removal so that
location.
11. Remove the valve push rods in
sequence and put them in a rack or holder
so that they can be installed in their
original position.
(Fig. 26).
GROUP 8- ENGINE
If the valve lifters are stuck in their
bores by excessive varnish, etc., it may
be necessary to use a plier-type tool or a
claw-type tool to remove the lifters.
Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen
it from the gum or varnish that may have
formed at the lifter.
The internal puts of each hydraulic
valve lifter assembly are matched sets. Do
not intermix the puts. Keep the
assemblies intact until they are to be
cleaned.
13. Remove the exhaust manifolds
and the spark plugs.
14. Remove the cylinder head bolts
and lift the cylinder heads off the block.
Discard the cylinder head gaskets.
Remove the cap screw and washer from
the end of the crankshaft. Install .the
puller on the crankshaft vibration damper
(Fig. 18) and remove the vibration
damper.
17. Remove the cylinder front cover
attaching screws. Remove the cylinder
front cover and water pump as an
assembly. Discard the gasket and remove
the crankshaft front oil slinger.
18. Remove the water pump from the
front cover.
19. Remove the thermostat housing
and thermostat from the block. Remove
the oil pressure and temperature sending
units from the block.
20. Remove the fuel pump.
21. Check the timing chain deflection
does not exceed 0.5 inches.
Remove the camshaft sprocket cap
screw, washer and two piece fuel pump
eccentric. Slide both sprockets and the
timing chain forward, and remove them as
an assembly (Fig. 23).
plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by
pulling it toward the front of the engine.
Use caution to avpid damaging the
journals and lobes.
23. Remove any ridge and/or carbon
cylinder bores. Move the piston to the
bottom of its travel and place a cloth on
the piston head to collect the cuttings.
Remove the cylinder ridge with a ridge
cutter. Follow the instructions furnished
by the tool manufacturer. Never cut into
the ring travel area in excess of 1/32 inch
when removing ridges. After the ridge has
been removed, remove the cutter from the
cylindet bore.
24. On a flywheel for a manual-shift
transmission, remove the clutch pressure
plate and disc.
2S. Remove. the flywheel and rear
cover plate. Remove the clutch pilot
bearing (Fig. 37).
26. Invert the engine. Remove the oil
pan and discard the gaskets and seals.

tube as an assembly. Remove the
intermediate drive shaft. Discard the oil
pump gasket.
28. Make sure all connecting tods and
caps are marked so that they can be
installed in their original locations. Tum
the crankshaft until the connecting rod
being removed is down. Remove the rod
cap.
piston assembly out of the top of the
cylinder with the handle end of a hammer.
Avoid damage to the connecting rod
journal or the cylinder wall when
removing the piston and rod.
the connecting rods and caps. Install the
rod caps on the connecting rods from
which they were removed.
of the cylinder block so that the thrust
bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle
the crankshaft with care to avoid possible
fracture or damage to the fmished
surfaces.
33. Remove the rear journal oil seal
from the block and rear bearing cap.
34. Remove the main bearing inserts
from the block and bearing cap. Install the
main bearing caps in their original
positions.
35. Remove the camshaft rear bearing
bore plug. Remove the camshaft bearings
(Fig. 45).
ASSEMBLY
If the cylinder block is to be replaced,
transfer the cylinder head dowels, front
cover and rear cover plate alignment
dowels, dip stick tube, oil filter adapter,
fuel pump retaining stud and drain plugs
to the new cylinder block and start the
assembly procedures with step number 5.
1. If the original cylinder block is
used, remove the glaze from the cylinder
bores by following the instructions in
Part 8-1.
stand.
3. Position the new camshaft
bearings at the bearing bores with the oil
holes aligned, and press them in place with
the tool shown in Fig. 46. Be sure the
camshaft front bearing is installed the
specified distance below the front face of
the cylinder block.
4. Using tool T70P-6011-A, install
the core plug.
5. Oil the camshaft journals and
apply Lubriplate to all lobes, and then
carefully slide it through the bearings.
Install the camshaft thrust plate and
check camshaft end play as shown in
Part 8-1.
journals have been refmished to a defmite
undersize, install the correct undersize
bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES

bearing bores are clean. Foreign material
under the inserts will distort the bearing
and cause a failure.
Place the upper main bearing inserts in
position in the bore with the tang fitting
in the slot provided.
8. Dip the lip seal halves in clean
engine oil. Install the lip seals in the
bearing cap and block with the undercut
engine as shown in Fig. 29.
into place. Be careful not to damage the
bearing surfaces.
10. Check the clearance of each main
fitting main and connecting rod bearings
in Part 8-1.

fitted apply a thin coating of oil-resistant
sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the
rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 30).
Do not apply sealer to the area forward of
the oil slinger groove.
12. Apply heavy engine oil MS to the
journals and bearings.
13. Install the rear main bearing cap
with the rear surface flush or slightly
ahead of the rear of the cylinder block.
Install all bearing caps, except the thrust
bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). Be sure that
the main bearing caps are installed in their
original positions. Tighten the bearing cap
14. Install the thrust bearing cap with
the bolts finger-tight.
IS. Pry the crankshaft forward and
pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear (Fig.
44). This will align the thrust surfaces of
both halves of the bearing.
16, Retain the forward pressure on
the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to
specifications.
(wear limit 0.012 inches).
18. Install the clutch pilot service
bearing (Fig. 38). Coat the threads of the
flywheel attaching ~olts with oil-resistant
sealer. Position the rear cover plate on the
block and the flywheel on the crankshaft
flange. Install and tighten the bolts to
specifications.
transmission, use tool 7SSO-A to
locate the clutch disc. Install the pressure
plate.
stand so that the front end is up.
20. Position the sprockets and timing
chain on the camshaft and crankshaft (Fig.
23). Be sure the timing marks on the
sprockets are positioned as shown in Fig.
22.
21. Lubricate the timing chain and
sprockets with engine oil.
22. Install the two piece fuel pump
eccentric, washer and camshaft sprocket
cap screw. Tighten the sprocket cap screw
to specifications. Install the crankshaft

front oil slinger (Fig. 24 ).
23. Position a fuel pump gasket on
the block and install the fuel pump.
Tighten the fuel pump attaching screw and
nut to specification.
24. Remove the front crankshaft seal
from the cylinder front cover with the
tool shown in Fig 19. Oean the cylinder
front cover water pump and the cylinder
block gasket surfaces.
2S. Coat the water pump gasket on
both sides with sealer. Install the water
pump and gasket onto the cylinder front
cover.
26. Coat the cylinder front cover
gasket on both sides with oil-resistant
sealer. Install the cylinder front cover onto
the alignment dowels. Install the timing
pointer and front cover retaining screws.
27. Install the pistons and connecting
rods by following steps 1 thru 9 under
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation.
stand. Position the intermediate drive
shaft into the distributor socket. With the
shaft frrmly seated in the distributor
socket, the stop on the shaft should touch
the roof of the crankcase. Remove the
shaft and position the stop as necessary.
29. With
the
stop
properly
positioned, insert the intermediate
driveshaft into the oil pump.
either the inlet or outlet port with engine
oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute
the oil within the pump body.
pump housing and install the pump and
shaft as an assembly. Tighten the oil pump
attaching screws to specifications.
block and oil pan. Coat the block surface
and the oil pan gasket surface With sealer.
Position new gaskets on the block and
position a new seal on the cylinder front
cover and rear main bearing cap. Make
sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil
pan gasket. Install the attaching screws
and tighten them from the center outward
to specifications (one screw secures the
fuel line bracket).
33. Install the front crankshaft oil
seal into the cylinder front cover with the
34. Lubricate the crankshaft with a
white lead and oil mixture and apply
Lubriplate to the oil seal rubbing surface
of the vibration damper inner hub to
prevent damage to the oil seal.
3S. Line up the crankshaft vibration
crankshaft, and then install the vibration
damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install
the damper cap screw and washer, and
tighten the screw to specifications. Install
the crankshaft pulley.
stand so that the top of the engine is up.
37. Clean the cylinder head and block
gasket surfaces. Install the head gasket
8-65
over the cylinder head dowels. Do not
apply sealer to the head gasket surfaces.
38. Place the cylinder head on the
engine. Coat the head bolt threads with
water-resistant sealer, and then install the
bolts.
39. The cylinder head bolt tightening
procedure is performed in
three
progressive steps. Tighten the bolts in
sequence (Fig. 11) to SO ft-lbs, then to 60
ft-lbs and fmally to specifications. When
cylinder head bolts have been tightened
following this procedure it is not necessary
to retorque the bolts after extended
operation. However, tlie bolts may be
checked and retightened if desired.
40. Coat the cylinder head mating
surfaces of the exhaust manifold with a
light film of graphite grease.
41. Position the exhaust manifolds on
the cylinder heads and install the attaching
bolts and flat washers. Tighten the
attaching bolts to specifications, working
from the center to the ends.
4 2. Install the spark plugs.
leakdown tester (page8-9) to fill the lifters
with test fluid. Coat the outside of each
valve lifter and lifter bore with heavy
engine oil MS to provide initial lubrication. Place each lifter in the bore from
which it was removed.
intake manifold, cylinder heads and
cylinder block.
4S . Position new seals on the cylinder
block and press the seal locating
extensions into the holes in the mating
surface.
Apply non-hardening sealer at the
four junction points of the seals and
cylinder heads. Position the intake
manifold gasket onto the block and
cylinder heads with the alignment notches
under the dowels on the cylinder heads.
Be sure the holes in the gasket are aligned
with the holes in the cylinder head.
46. Carefully
lower the intake
manifold into position on the cylinder
heads.
47. Be sure the holes in the manifold
gaskets and manifold are in alignment.
Install the intake manifold attaching bolts.
Tighten the intake manifold bolts in three
steps (Fig. 8).
ft-lb.
Tighten all bolts in sequence to lS-20
ft-lb.
Tighten all bolts in sequence to
specifications.
After completing the remammg
assembly steps, operate the engine until it
reaches normal operating temperature,
then retorque the manifold bolts in
sequence to specifications.
rods in their original positions. Apply
Lubriplate or equivalent over the valve
stem tips.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
49. With the No. 1 piston at TDC on
the end of the compression stroke,
POSITION A in Fig. 5 install the rocker
arm, fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a
valve clearance check on the following
valves:
B, Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm,
fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a valve
clearance check on the following valves:
C, Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm,
fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a valve
clearance check on the following valves:
Be sure the fulcrum seat base is
inserted in its slot on tht cylinder head
before tightening the fulcrum bolts.
Tighten the fulcrum bolts to specification.
Check the valve clearance following the
procedures
under
Valve
Clearance
Checking Procedure.
SO. Rotate the crankshaft until the
No. 1 piston is TDC at the end of the
compression stroke, then position the
distributor in the block with the rotor at
the No. 1 fuing position and the points
just open. Install the hold down clamp.
51. Remove the water pump bypass
orifice. plug (Fig. 47). Install a new water
pump by-pass orifice plug with the tool
shown in Fig. 48.
52. Coat a new thermostat housing
gasket on both sides with sealer. Install the
thermostat housing, thermostat and
gasket. Tighten the thermostat housing
53. Coat the threads of the oil
pressure sending unit and the temperature
FIG. 47 - Water Pump ByPIJS$ Orfice Plug
FIG. 48- Installing Water Pump ByPIJS$

Orfice Plug
sending unit with electrical conductive

sealer. Install the oil pressure and
temperature sending units in the block.
54. Install the ignition coil Position
and install the alternator and mounting
bracket.
55. Connect the vacuum lines.
56 . Clean the valve rocker arm covers
and the cylinder head gasket surfaces.
Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of
new cover gaskets. Lay the cemented side
of the gaskets in place in the covers.
57. Position the covers on the
cylinder heads. Make sure the gasket seats
evenly all around the head. Install the
bolts. The cover is tightened in two steps.
Tighten the bolts to specifications. Two
minutes later, tighten the bolts to the
same specifications.
58. Install the carburetor and connect
the fuel pump to carburetor fuel line.
59. Install the crankcase ventilation
system.
60. Install the
distributor cap.

brackets on the valve rocker arm covers.
Connect the spark plug wires and the coil
wire.
61. Clean the oil filter gasket surface.
Coat the gasket on the filter with oil. Place
the fllter in position on the adapter fitting.
Hand tighten the filter until the gasket
contacts the adapter face, then advance it
1/2 turn.
62. Install the engine in the vehicle.
Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the
crankcase with the proper grade and
quantity of engine oil.
63. Operate the engine and check for
oil and coolant leaks. Check and adjust the
ignition timing. Connect the distributor
vacuum hose to the distributor. Retorque
intake manifold bolts to specifications.
64. Adjust the engine idle speed, fuel
mixture and anti-stall dashpot (if
applicable). Adjust the transmission
throttle linkage.
8-61
PART
84
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL ENGINE
GENERAL ENGINE (Continued)
ENGINE MODELS AND PISTON DISPLACEMENT

Cubic inches
200
Six
250
Six
302
V-8
351
V-8
COMPRESSION RATIO (HC)
200 Six
250 Six
302 V-8 (2-V)
351 V-8 (4-V)
351 V-8 (2-V)
11.0 : 1
9.5 : 1
COMPRESSION RATIO (LC)

200
250
8.0 : 1
8.2 : 1
8.8 : 1
9.1 : 1
BORE
200
250
302
351
351
170@ 2000
216@1700
AND STROKE
Six
SIX
V-8 (2-V)
V-8 (4-V)
V-8 (2-V)
3.68 X 3.13
3.68 X 3.91
4.00 X 3.00
4.00 X 3.500
4.00 X 3.500
9.8: 1
BRAKE HORSEPOWER @ Specified rpm

130@ 4600
200 Six (HC)
155@ 4000
250 Six (HC)
170@ 4600
250-2V
230@ 5000
302 V-8 (2-V)
300@ 5400
351 V-8 (4-V)
250@ 4600
351 V-8 (2-V)
114 @ 4600
200 (LC)
138@ 4000
250 (LC)
TOROUE-Ft-lbs @ Specified rpm
200 Six (HC)
250 Six (HC)
250-2V
302 V-8 (2 -V)
351 V-8 (4-V)
351 V-8 (2 -V)
200 (LC)
250 (LC)
190@
240@
250@
300@
380@
355@
2000
1600
2800
2600
3400
2600
TAXABLE HORSEPOWER
200 and 250 Six
302 and 351 V-8
FIRING ORDER
200 and 250 Six
302
351
32.50
51.20
1-5-3-6-2-4
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
VALVE ARRANGEMENT-Front to Rear

200 and 250 Six
E-1-1-E-1-E-E-1-E-1-1-E
302 and 351 V-8
Right 1-E-1-E-1-E-1-E
Left E-1-E-1-E-1-E-1
ENGINE IDLE RPM
200 and 250 1V-2V
575-600
302
525-550
351 V-8 (2-V)
575 600
650-675
351 V-8 (4-V)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION-Drive Range
200 and 250 1V-2V
500-525
302
475-500
351
550-575
COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMITS- ALL ENGINES.

Maximum
Minimum
Maximum
Minimum
Maximum
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
134
136
138
140
142
144
146
148
150
152
154
156
158
160
162
164
166
168
170
172
101
102
104
105
107
108
110
111
113
114
115
117
118
120
121
123
124
126
127
129
174
176
178
180
182
184
186
188
190
192
194
196
198
200
202
204
206
208
210
212
131
132
133
135
136
138
140
141
142
144
145
147
148
150
151
153
154
156
157
158
214
216
218
220
222
224
226
228
230
232
234
236
238
240
242
244
246
248
250
160
162
163
165
166
168
169
171
172
174
175
177
178
180
181
183
184
186
187
Quick Reference Compression Pressure Limit Chart
Minimum
8-68
GROUP 8- ENGINE
VALVE MECHANISM (Continued)
GENERAL ENGINE (Continued)

ENGINE IDLE MANIFOLD VACUUM-Minimum
Inches of Mercury @ Specified Engine Neutral Idle
rpm (Sea Level)
17
200 and 250-18
302 V-8
18
351V-8
18
IGNITION TIMING
Manual shift and Automatic transmission
200
6 BTDC
250
6 BTDC
For altitude operation al')d/or to obtain optimum
engine performance and fuel economy, the initial
timing may be advanced 3 over the 'normal' setting
to a maximum initial advance of 9
NO FURTHER ADVANCE IS PERMISSIBLE
Manual shift and Automatic transmission
6 BTDC
302 and 351
For altitude operation and/or to obtain optimum
engine performance and fuel economy, the initial
timing may be advanced 5o over the 'normal' setting
to a maximum initial advance of 11. NO FURTHER
ADVANCE IS PERMISSIBLE.
01 L CAPACITY
200 and 250 Six
302 and ::l51 (V-8)
*Includes 1.7 pints for filter.
OIL PRESSURE-Hot @ 2000 rpm
All Engines
IMP. PINTS
7.70* pints
8.0* pints
40 lbs. min.
CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET SURFACE FLATNESS
0.003 inch in any 6 inches
or 0.007 inch overall
0.003 inch in any 6 inches
302 and 351
or 0.006 inch overall
VALVE GUIDE BORE DIAMETER-Standard
Intake and Exhaust
200 and 250
0.3433-D.3443
302 and 351
VALVE SEAT WIDTH
Intake and Exhaust
0.070-0.090
200 and 250
0.060-0.080
302 and 351
VALVE SEAT ANGLE
200 and 250
Intake 30
Exhaust 45
302 and 351
Intake and Exhaust 45
200 and 250
VALVE SEAT RUNOUT

Maximum All Engines
0.0015
COMBUSTION CHAMBER VOLUME-CC
200 and 250
56.5-58.5
56.38-59.38
302
351 2-V = 76.76-79.76
351 4-V = 64.6-67.6
DECK HEIGHT
VALVE MECHANISM
0.000-0.025
VALVE CLEARANCE-Lifter Collapsed

200 and 250
0.066-0.166
302
}
351 2-V
.150 .050
351 4-V
.150 .050
VALVE STEM DIAMETER

Standard
INTAKE
200 and 250
302 and 351
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 and 351
0.003 Oversize
INTAKE
200 and 250
302 and 351
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 and 351
0.015 Oversize
INTAKE
200 and 2.50
302 and 351
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 and 351
0.030 Oversize
INTAKE
200 and 250
302 and 351
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 anc.i 351
VALVE FACE ANGLE
INTAKE
6 Cyl.
8 Cyl.
EXHAUST-All Engines
0.3416-0.3423
0.3411-0.3418
0.3446-0.3453
0.3441-0.3448
0.3566-0.3573
0.3561-0.3568
0.3716-0.3723
0.3711-0.3718
29
44
44
VALVE STEM TO VALVE GUIDE CLEARANCE

INTAKE
200 and 250
0.001 0-0.0027-Wear
302 and 351
Limit 0.0045
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 and 351
VALVE HEAD DIAMETER
INTAKE
200 and 250
302
}
351 2-V
EXHAUST
200 and 250
302 _V }
351 2
351 4-V EX
351 4-V IN.
VALVE FACE RUNOUT
Intake and Exhaust
200 and 250
302 and 351
0.0020-0.0032-Wear
Limit 0.0045
1.642-1.657
2.032-2.050
1.381-1.396
1.650-1 .660
1.705-1 .715
2.183-2.198
0.0015
0.0020
VALVE SPRING FREE LENGTH-Approximate

1.79
200 and 250

VALVE MECHANISM (Continued)
302
351 2-V
351 4-V
2.07
2 05
VALVE SPRING OUT OF SQUARE-Maximum

All Engines
.078
VALVE SPRING PRESSURE-Lbs@ Specified Lgth.
200 and 250
51-57@ 1.590
Wear Limit 46 @ 1.590
142-158 @ 1.222
Wear Limit 128 @ 1.222
VALVE SPRING-Lbs @Specified Length
PRESSURE
WEAR LIMIT
302, 351 2-V
76-84 @ 1.820
68 @ 1.820
199-221 @ 1.420
179 @ 1.420
351 4-V
85-95 @ 1.820
79 @ 1.820
271-299 @ 1.320
244 @ 1.320
VALVE SPRING ASSEMBLED HEIGHT
1 9/16-1 39/64
200 and 250
302-}
1 13/16-1 27/32
351
VALVE PUSH ROD MAXIMUM RUNOUT
All Engines
0.020
VALVE TAPPET DIAMETER-Standard
0.8740-0.8745
All Engines
VALVE TAPPET TO TAPPET BORE CLEARANCE
All Engines 0.0007-0.0027-Wear Limit 0.005
HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTER LEAK DOWN RATE
-Wear Limit
All Engines (measured at 1/16 inch Plunger
5-50 Seconds
Travel)
ROCKER ARM TO ROCKER ARM SHAFT
CLEARANCE
200 and 250 0.002-0.0045-Wear Limit 0.006
ROCKER ARM SHAFT O.D.
200 and 250
0.780-0.781
ROCKER ARM BORE DIAMETER

200 and 250
0.783-0.784
CAMSHAFT AND TIMING CHAIN

CAMSHAFT JOURNAL DIAMETER-Standard
1.8095-1.8105
200 and 250
CAMSHAFT JOURNAL-Diameter
302,351
1
2.1238-2.1248
2
2.0655-2.0665
3
2.0505-2.0515
4
2.0355-2.0365
5
2.0205-2.0215
CAMSHAFT JOURNAL TO BEARING CLEARANCE
All Engines
0.001-0.003-Wear Limit 0.006
CAMSHAFT JOURNAL
ROUND
All Engines
MAXIMUM
OUT-OF0.0005
TIMING CHAIN MAXIMUM DEFLECTION

All Engines
0.5
CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT
0.2455200 and 250 Intake and Exhaust
Wear Limit 0.240
8-69
CAMSHAFT AND TIMING CHAIN (Continued)

302, 351 2-V Intake
0.235
351 4-V
0.247
302, 351 2-V Exhaust
0.235
351 4-V
0.262
CAMSHAFT END PLAY
200 and 250
0.001-0.007-Wear Limit 0.012
0.001 -0.006 -Wear Limit 0.009
302 and 351
VALVE TIMING
200 and 250
Intake Opens at 19 BTDC at 0.0022" Lobe Lift
Intake Closes at 53 ABDC at 0.00475" Lobe Lift
Exhaust Opens at 60 BBDC at 0.0022'" Lobe Lift
Exhaust Closes at 16 ATDC at 0.00475'" Lobe Lift
2-V 4-V
302, 351
Intake Opens at 12 o 18 BTDC at 0.004'" Lobe Lift
Intake
Closes at6670 ABDC at0.006" Lobe Lift
Exhaust Opens at 66 o 81 B B DC at 0.004" Lobe Lift
Exhaust Closes at 20 o 19 ATDC at 0.006'" Lobe Lift
VALVE ROCKER RATIO
200 and 250
302,351
1.54 : 1
1.73 : 1
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
INSIDE DIAMETER
200 and 250
1.8115-1 .8125
No. 1 bearing is installed with the front edge
0.11 5 to 0.125 inch toward the rear from the
front face of the cylinder block.
CAMSHAFT BEARING-Inside Diameter
2.1258-2.1268
302,351
1
2.0675-2.0685
2
2.0525-2.0535
3
4
2.0375-2.0385
2.0225-2.0235
5
No. 1 bearing is installed with the front edge
0.005 to 0.020 inch toward the rear from the front
face of the cylinder block.
CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER
Standard
200 and 250
2.3990-2.3982
302, 351
2.7484-2.7492
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL RUNOUT-Maximum

200 and 250
0.0025-Wear Limit 0.0035
302, 351
0.004-Wear Limit 0.004
MAIN BEARING JOURNALS MAXIMUM OUTOF-ROUND

All Engines
0.0004
CONNECTING ROD BEARING JOURNALS
MAXIMUM TAPER
200 and 250
0.0004 per inch
302 and 351
MAIN BEARING JOURNALS MAXIMUM TAPER
All Engines
0.0003 per inch _
GROUP 8-ENGINE
8-70
CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)
THRUST BEARING JOURNAL LENGTH
200 and 250
1.275-1 .277
302, 351
1.124-1.126
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL THRUST FACE RUNOUT

0.001
All Engines
CONNECTING ROD JOURNAL DIAMETER
Standard
2.1232-2.1240
200 and 250
302, 351
2.3103-2.3111
CRANKSHAFT FREE END PLAY

All Engines
0.004-0.010-Wear Limit 0.012
ASSEMBLED FLYWHEEL CLUTCH FACE
MAXIMUM RUNOUT
200 and 250
0.007
302 and 351
O.Q1 0
ASSEMBLED FLYWHEEL O.D. MAXIMUM
RUNOUT
Standard Transmission
All Engines
O.Q18
Automatic Transmission
All Engines
0.020
BEARING TO CRANKSHAFT CLEARANCE

Desired
Allowable
0.0005-0.0022
200 and 250 0.0005-0.0015
0.0001-0.0015
302, 351
WALL THICKNESS
Standard
200 and 250 0.0758-0.0761
302 and 351 0.0959-0.0962
0.0008-0.0026
0.002 U.S.
0.0768-0.0771
0.0969-0.0972
PIN BORE DIAMETER

Standard
0.9107-0.9112
200 and 250
302 and 351
0.9104-0.9112
BEARING BORE DIAMETER-Standard
200-250
2.2390-2.2398
302-351
2.4361-2.4369
BEARING BORE MAXIMUM OUT OF ROUND
200 and 250
0.0003-0.0004
302 and 351
0.0004
BEARING BORE MAXIMUM TAPER
All Engines
0.0004
CONNECTING ROD LENGTH-Centre to Centre

302,351
CONNECTING ROD*
Twist Maximum Total Difference
200 and 250
0.008
302 and 351
0.012
Bend Maximum Total Difference
All Engines
0.004
*Piston pin bore and crankshaft bearing bore must
be parallel and in the same vertical plane within
the specified total difference at ends of 8-i nch
long bar measured 4-i nches on each side of rod .
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

BEARING TO CRANKSHAFT CLEARANCE
Desired
Allowable
0.0008-0.0024
200 and 250 0.0008-0.0015
302 and 351 0.001-0.0015
0.0008-0.0026
BEARING WALL THICKNESS FOR STANDARD
AND UNDERSIZE JOURNAL
0.002 U.S.
Standard
0.0583- 0.0588
200 and 250 0.0571-0.0574
302}
0.0630-0.0635
351
0.0620-0.0625
PISTON DIAMETER-At Right Angle to Pin

Centreline
Colour Coded Red
200 and 250
3.6778-3.6784
302
3.9982-3.9988
351 }
Colour Coded Blue
200 and 250
3.6790-3.6796
302}
351
3.9994-4.0000
PISTON TO CYLINDER BORE CLEARANCE
200 and 250
0.0010-0.0018
CONNECTING ROD
6.274-6.271
0.01 0-0.020Wear Limit 0.023
PISTON
MAIN BEARINGS
200
302 and 351
250
5.882-5.879
5.7785-5.7815
CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLYAssembled to Crankshaft

Side Clearance
0.0035-0.01 05200 and 250
Wear Limit 0.014
302 }
351
PISTON PIN BORE DIAMETER
All Engines
RING GROOVE WIDTH
Upper Compression Ring
All Engines
Lower Compression Ring
All Engines
Oil Ring
All Engines
0.0014-0.0022
0.9122-0.9125
0.080- 0.081
0.080- 0.081
0.1880- 0.1890
PISTON PIN
PISTON PIN DIAMETER
Standard
All Engines
PISTON PIN LENGTH
All Engines
0.9119-0.9124
3.010-3.040
PISTON PIN TO PISTON CLEARANCE-Loose

200 and 250
0.0003-0.0005

PISTON PIN (Continued)
302 and 351
OIL PUMP-Rotor Type (Continued)

0.0003-0.0005
Wear Limit 0.0008
PISTON RINGS
RING WIDTH
Compression Ring
UPPER
All Engines
LOWER
All Eng ines
SIDE CLEARANCE
Compression Ring
UPPER
All Eng ines
LOWER
All Engines
RELIEF VALVE CLEARANCE

All Engines
0.0015-0.0029
DRIVE SHAFT TO HOUSING BEARING

CLEARANCE
All Engines
0.0015-0.0029
0.0770-0.0781
0.0770-0.0780
0.0020-0.0040-Wear
Limit 0.006
0.0020-0.0040-Wear
Lim it 0.006
Oil Ring
All Engines
RING GAP WIDTH
Compression Ring-Standard Bore-Upper
All Engines
8-71
ROTOR ASSEMBLY END CLEARANCE-Pump

Assembled
0.0011-0.0041
All Engines
OUTER RACE TO HOUSING-Radial Clearance
All Engines
0.006-0.013
Engine Weights (Lbs.)
200
Wet
408
Dry
390
250
Wet
420
Dry
402
302. 351 Wet
719
Dry
698
Snug
TORQUE LIMITs-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS
0.01 0-0.020
Compression Ring-Standard Bore-Lower

All Engines
O.Q1 0-0.020
Oil Ring *-Standard Bore
200 and 250
0.01 5-0.055
0.015-0.069
302 and 351
*Steel Rail
CYLINDER BLOCK
CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER-Standard Spreads
for 8 Grades
3.6R00-3.6824
200 and 250
302}
4.000-4.0024
351
Oil the threads with lightweight engine oil. except do not oil threads that require oil-resistant
MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS 302 351C 95-105
60-70
Other Engines
CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
6 Cyl.
55
Step 1
65
Step 2
70-75
Step 3
302,351
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
CYLINDER BORE MAXIMUM OUT-OF - ROUND

All Engines
0.001-Wear Limit 0.005
CYLINDER BOAE TAPER
All Engines
0.001-Wear Lim it 0.01 0
OIL PAN TO CYLINDER BLOCK

6 Cyl.
8 Cyl 1/4-20 Bolt
5/16-18 Bolt
HEAD GASKET SURFACE FLATNESS

All Six
0.003 inch in any 6
or 0.007 inch
All V-8
0.003 inch in any 6
or 0.006 inch
MANIFOLDS TO CYLINDER HEAD

Intake
inches
overall
inches
overall
MAIN BEARING BORE DIAMETER

2.4012-2.4020
200 and 250
302 }
351
2.9417-2.94?9
OIL PUMP-Rotor Type

RELIEF VALVE SPRING TENSIONLbs. @ Specified Length in inches
200 and 250
9.0-10.1 @ 1.078
302}
23.6-24.6 @ 1.37
351
302, 351. 250 2V

302,351
Exhaust
All Engines
55
75
95-105
7-9
7- 9
11-13
21-25 (5/16)
27-33 (3/8)
13-18
FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT
All Engines
75-85
OIL PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK

6 Cyl.
8 Cvl.
12-15
25-35
8-72
GROUP 8- ENGINE
TORQUE LIMITS-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS (Cont.)

OIL PUMP COVER PLATE
6 Cyl. Engines
8 Cyl. Engines
6-9
9-12
TORQUE LIMITs-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS (Cont.)

VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER
All Engines
OIL FILTER ADAPTER TO CYLINDER BLOCK

8 Cyl.
351-302
20-50
VALVE ROCKER SHAFT SUPPORT TO

CYLINDER HEAD
6 Cyl.
OIL FILTER TO ADAPTER OF CYLINDER BLOCK

All Engines
With grease on the gasket surface.
hand tighten until gasket contacts
adapter face. Then tighten 1/2 turn
more.
ROCKER ARM BOLT TO CYL. HEAD

6 Cyl.
8 Cyl.
FUEL PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK OR

7-9
14-20
WATER OUTLET HOUSING

12-15
All Engines
OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
All Engines
1 5-20
CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE TO CYLINDER
BLOCK
12-15
6 Cyl.
8 Cyl.
9-12
WATER PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK OR
FRONT COVER
All Engines
12-15
CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TO CAMSHAFT
6 Cyl.
8 Cyl.
35-45
40-45
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY TO VIBRATION DAMPER

UBS BOLTS
25-35
PLACE BOLTS
35-45
CONNECTING ROD NUTS
200-250 and 302
19-24
302,351
40-45
3-5
30-35
18-25
OIL INLET TUBE TO OIL PUMP
All Engines
12-15
12-15
200 and.250
14-20
302 351
ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT-Nuts or Bolts
Insulator Assembly to Engine
35-60
8 Cvl-.
Insulator Assembly to Support Brackets
6 Cyl.
24-34
302 8 Cyl. }
20-30
351 8 Cyl.
Support Bracket to Body
6 Cyl.
18-25
8 Cyl.
20-30
Insulator Bracket to Engine
6 Cyl.
18-25
Insulator to Insulator Bracket
6 Cyl.
18-25
ENGINE REAR SUPPORT-Nuts or Bolts
Insulator to Rear Support
All Engines
30-50
Rear Support to Body
All Engines
50-70
Insulator to Transmission
30-45
All Engines
,;
IGNITION SYSTEM
GROUP
9
PAGE
PART 9-1-
General Ignition System Service
PART 9-2-
Dual Advance Distributor-Bosch
9-14
PART 9-3-
Dual Advance Distributor-Motorcraft
9-18
PART 9-4-
Specifications
9-24
9-2
9-2
PART
91
GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
General Information
Ignition System Tests-Conventional
Test Equipment .
Distributor Checks
Di~tributor Tests-Dwell Tester
Distributor Tests-Distributor Tester
Breaker Points and Condenser ..
Ignition Timing
Spark Plug Wire Replacement
This part covers ignitioh system

description and operation, general
ignition system diagnosis, tests, adjustments and repair operations. In
addition, the cleaning and inspection
procedures are covered.
For distributor removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major
repair procedures and specifications,
refer to the pertinent part of this
group.
The distributor identification num-
Page
9-2
9-2
9-3
9-5
9-5
9-5
9-7
9-7
9-8
9-9
Section
Spark Plugs ......
Resistance Wire Replacement
3 Cleaning and Inspection
Spark Plugs
Distributors
Secondary Wiring
Coil
Distributor Cap
Rotor .... ...... . .... ..
Distributor Vacuum Advance Control Valve
ber is stamped on the distributor

body. The basic part number for
Motorcraft 351 distributors is 12127
and for Bosch 351, 302, 250 & 200
distributors is 12100.
To procure replacement parts it is
necessary to know the complete part
number.
In addition, Bosch distributors
can be identified by their diaphragm
colour coding as follows:
200 C.I.D. H.C. Blue, L.C. Black,
Pare
9-10
9-10
9- 10
9- 10
9- 10
9-12
9-12
9-12
9-12
9-12
L.L.C. Yellow.
250 C.I.D. H.C. Red, L.C. White .
250 C.I.D. 2V Green.
302 C.I.D. Manual & Auto Red.
351 C.I.D. 2V Auto Yellow.
A majority of the parts used in the
Bosch distributor are not interchangeable with earlier models.
Always refer to the Master Parts
Catalogue for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a distribqtor or a component part for a
distributor.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The ignition system consists of a

primary (low voltage) and a secondary (high voltage) circuit (Fig. 1).
The primary circuit consists of the:
1. Battery.
2. Ignition switch.
3. Primary circuit resistance wire.
4. Primary windings of the ignition coil.
5. Breaker points.
6. Condenser.
The secondary citcuit consists of
the:
1. Secondary windings of the
ignition coil.
2. Distributor rotor.
3. Distributor cap.
4. High tension wires.
5. Spark plugs.
When the breaker points are
closed, the primary or low voltage
current flows from the battery
throug~ the ignition switch to the
primary windings in the coil. then to
SPARK PlUG
BATTERY
-PRIMARY CIRCUIT
~ECONOARY CIRCUIT
FIG. 1 -Typical Ignition System Circuit
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE

ground through the closed breaker
points. When the breaker points
open, the magnetic field built up in
the primary windings of the coil
moves through the secondary windings of the coil producing high voltage current. High voltage current is
produced each time the breaker
points open. The high voltage flows
through the coil high tension lead to
the distributor cap where the rotor
distributes it to one of the spark plug
terminals in the distributor cap. This
process is repeated for every power
stroke of the engine.
2. Burned, shorted, sticking or improperly adjusted breaker points.

3. A defective coil.
4. A defective condenser.
To isolate a trouble in the primary
circuit, proceed as follows:
Turn the ignition switch off and
remove the auxiliary starter switch
from the starter relay.
Install the coil high tension lead in
the distributor cap, the red and blue
wire on the starter relay S terminal
and the brown wire on the starter relay I terminal.
Now perform a primary circuit
test.
IGNITION SYSTEM TESTSCONVENTIONAL TEST

EQUIPMENT
TROUBLE ISOLATION
Ignition system troubles are caused
by a failure in the primary and/ or
the secondary circuit or incorrect ignition timing. If an engine trouble
has been traced to the ignition system
from the "Engine Trouble Diagnosis
Guide," the trouble can be found by
performing an ignition system test on
a scope or by further isolating the
trouble to the primary or secondary
circuit as follows:
1. Disconnect the brown wire
from the starter relay I terminal and
the red and blue wire from the starter relay S terminal.
2. Remove the coil high tension
lead from the distributor cap.
3. Turn on the ignition switch.
4. While holding the high tension
lead approximately 3/t_a inch from the
FIG. 2 -Battery to Coil and

Starting Ignition Circuit Test
9-3
Secondary Circuit
FIG. 3 -Ignition Switch Test

cylinder head or any other good
ground, crank the engine by using an
auxiliary starter switch between the
starter relay battery and S terminals.
If the spark is good, the trouble
lies in the secondary circuit.
If there is no spark or a weak
spark, the trouble is in the primary
circuit, coil to distributor high tension lead, or the coil.
Primary Circuit
A breakdown or energy loss in the

primary circuit can be caused by:
1. Defective primary wiring, or
loose or corroded terminals.
FIG. 4 -Resistance Wire Test
A breakdown or energy loss in the

secondary circuit can be caused by:
1. Fouled or improperly adjusted
sparlr plugs.
l. Defective high tension wiring.
3. High tension leakage across the
coil, distributor cap or rotor resulting from an accumulation of dirt.
To isolate a trouble in the secondary circuit, proceed as follows :
Turn the ignition switch off and
remove the auxiliary starter switch
from the starter relay.
Install the coil high tension lead in
the distributor cap, the red and blue
wire on the starter relay S terminal
and the l,rown wire on the starter relay I terminal.
Now perform a secondary circuit
test.
PRIMARY CIRCUIT TESTS
A complete test of the primary cir-
FIG. 5-Coil to Ground Test
9-4
GROUP 9-
cuit consists of checking the circuit

from the battery to the coil, the circuit from the coil to ground, and the
starting ignition circuit.
Excessive voltage drop in the primary circuit will reduce the secondary output of the ignition coil, resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
Battery to Coli Test
1. Connect the voltmeter leads as
shown in Fig. 2.
2. Install a jumper wire from the
distributor terminal of the coil to a
good ground on the distributor housing.
3. Turn the lights and accessories
off.
4. Turn the ignition switch on.
5. If the voltmeter reading is 6.9
volts or less, the primary circuit
from the battery to the coil is satisfactory.
6. If the voltmeter reading is
greater than 6.9 volts, check the following:
The battery and cables for loose
connections or corrosion.
The primary wiring for worn insulation, broken strands, and loose or
corroded terminals.
The resistance wire for defects.
The starter relay to ignition switch
for defects.
Starting Ignition Circuit Test
shown in Fig. 2.
l. Disconnect and ground the coil
to distributor high tension lead at the
distributor.
3. With the ignition switch off,
crank the engine by installing a jumper wire between the battery and the
"S" terminal of the starter relay while
observing the voltage drop.
4. If the voltage drop is 0.1 volt
or less, the starting ignition circuit is
satisfactory.
5. If the voltage drop is greater
than 0.1 volt, clean and tighten the
terminals in the circuit or replace the
wiring as necessary.
Ignition Switch Test
shown in Fig. 3.
l. Install a jumper wire from the
good ground on the distributor body.
3. Turn all of the accessories and
lights off.
volt or less, the ignition switch and
the relay to switch wire are satisfac-
IGNITION SYSTEM
tory.
greater than 0.3 volt, either the ignition switch and/ or the wire are defective.
and Inspection (Section 3 of this

part).
Check the coil on a coil tester by
following the manufacturers instructions.
Resistance Wire Test

shown in Fig. 4.
l. Install a jumper wire from the
good ground on the distributor housing.
3. Turn all of the accessories and
lights off.
4. Tum the ignition switch on.
volts or less, the resistance wire is
satisfactory.
greater than 6.6 volts, replace the resistance wire.
SECONDARY CIRCUIT TESTS
Coli to Ground Test

shown in Fig. 5.
l. Close the breaker points.
3. Turn all lights and accessories
off.
volt or Jess, the primary circuit from
coil to ground is satisfactory.
greater than 0.1 volt, test the voltage
drop between each of the following:
The coil and breaker point terminals of the coil to distributor primary
wire.
The movable breaker point and the
breaker plate.
The breaker plate and the distributor housing.
The distributor housing and engine
ground.
Breaker Points
Clean and inspect the breaker
points by following the procedure under Cleaning and Inspection (Section
3 of this part).
The breaker point dwell can be
checked with a distributor tester or a
dwell meter by following the procedure under Distributor Tests in this
section of the manual.
The breaker p"int resistance can
be checked with ;_ distributor tester
by following the procedure under
Distributor Tests in this section of
the manual.
Coli
Clean and inspect the coil by following the procedure under Cleaning
Distributor Cap
Clean and inspect the distributor
cap by following the procedure under
Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of
this part).
Rotor
Clean and inspect the rotor by following the procedure under Cleaning
and Inspection (Section 3 of this
part).
Secondary (High Tension)
Wires
The secondary wires include the
wires connecting the distributor cap
to the spark plugs and the wire connecting the center terminal of the
distributor cap to the center terminal
of the ignition coil.
Clean and inspect the secondary
wiring by following the procedure
under Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of this part).
These wires are the radio resistance-type which filter out the high
frequency electrical impulses that
are the source of ignition noise interference. The resistance of each wire
should not exceed 7000 ohms per
foot.
When checking the resistance of

the wires or setdng lpltion timing,
do not puncture the wires with a
probe. The probe may cause a sep
aratioa In the conductor.
When removing the wires from the
spark plugs, grasp and twist the
moulded cap, then puB the cap off
the spark plug. Do not pull on the
wire because the wire connection Ia
ade the cap may become separated
or the Insulator seal may be dam
aged.
To check the.spark intensity at the
spark plugs, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect a spark plug wire.
Check the spark Intensity of one wire
at a time.
2. Install a terminal adapter in the
terminal of the wire to be checked.
Hold the adapter approximately 3fw
inch from the exhaust manifold and
crank the engine, using a remote
starter switch. The spark should jump
the gap regularly.
3. If the spark intensity of all the
wires is satisfactory, the coil, condenser, rotor, distributor cap and the
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SY.STEM SERVICE

secondary wires are probably satisfactory.
If the spark is good at only some
wires, check the resistance of the
faulty leads.
If the spark is equal at all wires,
but weak or intermittent, check the
coil, distributor cap and the coil to
distributor high tension wire.
Spark Plugs
Inspect, clean and gap the plugs
following the instructions in sections
2 and 3. After the proper gap is obtained, check the plugs on a testing
machine. Compare the sparking efficiency of the cleaned and gapped
plug with a new plug. Replace the
piug if it fails to meet 70% of the
new plug performance.
Test the plugs for compression
leakage at the insulator seal. Apply a
coating of oil to the shoulder of the
plug where the insulator projects
through the shell, and to the top of
the plug, where the center electrode
and terminal project from the insulator. Place the spark plug under pressure with the tester's high tension
wire removed from the spark plug.
LeakJge is indicated by air bubbling
through the oil. If the test indicates
compression leakage, replace the
plug. If the plug is satisfactory, wipe
it clean.
Ignition Timing
Incorrect ignition timing can be

caused by:
1. Timing incorrectly adjusted.
2. Distributor bushing and/ or
shaft worn, or a bent distributor
shaft.
3. Defective vacuum advance system.
4. Defective centrifugal advance
system.
DISTRIIUTOR CHICKS
Dual Advance Distributor
1. Remove the distributor from
the engine.
2. Place the distributor in the holding tool and clamp it in a vise with
the gear end up.
3. Push the distributor shaft upward as far as it will go, and check
the end play with a feeler aauae
placed between the collar and the distributor base. The end play should be
DISTRIBUTOR TISTI-DWELL TESTER
TEST CONNECTIONS
1. Connect the red lead to the distributor terminal of the coil.
2. Connect the black lead to a

good around on the engine.
DWELL ANGLE CHECK
1. Connect the tester.
2. Turn the test control knob to
the set position.
3, Adjust the set control knob until the needle on the dwell meter lines
up with the set line.
4. Start the engine and let it idle.
5. Turn the test control knob to
the 8 CYL position for eight cylinder
engines or to the 6 CYL position for
6 cylinder engines.
6. Read the dwell angle on the
dwell meter and compare the reading
to specifications.
7. Turn off the engine.
8. If the dwell angle was below the
specified amount, the breaker point
gap is too large. If the dwell angle
was above the specified amount, the
breaker point gap is too small.
If the dwell is to specifications,
turn the test selector knob to the
OFF position and disconnect the
tester leads.
DWELL ANGLE
ADJUSTMENT
If the dwell angle is not within
specifications, proceed as follows:

lead from the distributor and ground
it.
2. Remove the distributor cap and
place it out of the way.
3. Disconnect the brown wire (I

terminal) and the red and blue wire
(S terminal) from the starter relay.
FIG. 6 -
9-5
4. Loosen the breaker point assembly retaining screw near the

breaker point contacts.
5. With the ignition on, crank the

engine with an auxiliary starter
switch connected between the battery
and S terminals of the starter relay
and adjust the gap to specifications.
6. Release the auxiliary starter
switch and tighten the breaker point
assembly retaining screw.
7. Since the adjustment may have
changed when the retaining screw
was tightened, crank the engine again
with the auxiliary starter switch and
check the dwell.
DISTRIBUTOR TESTS DISTRIBUTOR TESTERS
MOUNTING DISTRIBUTOR
Set up the distributor in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Bosch distributors fitted to Falcon
engines have only one bearing in the
distributor housing. When phasing
and cam angle testing these distributors a lower bearing must be
provided. As a variety of test benches
are available it is impossible to release
a common bearing and bracket as an
essential tool.
The sketch and dimensions (Fig.
6) will enable manufacture of a bearing and support which can be adapted
to suit individual test benches.
Iosch Distributor Supports
GROUP 9-
9-6
Dimension
6 Cylinder
A
1.75
B
1.136
c 1.301-1.300
D
2.520-2.517
E
3.1
0.516-0.517
F
8 Cylinder
1.9
1.16
1.559-1.561
4.018-4.021
4.5
0.516-0.517
NOTE:
Missing dimensions according to
individual test bench.
All dimensions in inches.
BREAKER POINT
RESISTANCE
1. Turn the test selector to the
appropriate position.
2. Revolve the chuck by hand
until the distributor breaker points
are closed.
3. The meter pointer on the cam
angle meter should read in the OK
zone. If the meter pointer does not
fall in the OK zone, there is excessive resistance caused by a faulty
contact across the distributor points,
a faulty primary lead, or a poorly
grounded base plate. A faulty contact
across the distributor points indicates improper spring tension or
burned or pitted points.
INSULATION AND LEAKAGE
cam angle position and revolve the
chuck by hand until the distributor
breaker contacts are open.
2. The cam angle meter should
show a zero reading. If a zero reading is not obtained, a short circuit to
ground exists.
A short could be caused by poor
primary lead wire insulation, a
shorted condenser, or a short between the breaker arm and breaker
plate.
MECHANICAL OPERATION
SYNCHRO. position and check to
make sure the drive chuck is securely
tightened on the distributor shaft.
2. Turn the motor control switch
to the setting for an eight cylinder
car or for a six cylinder car.
If it Is necessary to reverse the rotation of the drive motor, tum the
motor control switch to the OFF position and allow the chuck to come
to a complete stop before reversing
the switch.
3. Adjust the rpm control to vary
the distributor speed between 400
and 4000 engine rpm or at the maxi-
IGNITION SYSTEM
mum speed of the engine on which

the distributor is used. Erratic or thin
faint flashes of light preceding the
regular flashes as the speed of rotation is increased can be due to weak
breaker arm spring tension or binding of the breaker arm on the pivot
pin.
4. Operate the distributor at approximately 2500 engine rpm.
5. Move the protractor scale with
the adjustment control so that the
zero degree mark on the scale is opposite one of the neon flashes. The
balance of all the flashes should come
within 1o, plus or minus, evenly
around the protractor scale. A variation larger than 1 o or erratic or wandering flashes may be caused by a
worn cam or distributor shaft or a
bent distributor shaft.
DWELL ANGLE
1. Turn the cylinder selector to
the figure corresponding to the number of lobes on the cam of the distributor being tested.
2. Turn the test selector switch to
the cam angle position and operate
the distributor at approximately
250 engine rpm.
3. Adjust the distributor breaker
point gap to the dwell angle shown in
the specifications.
BREAKER PLATE WEAR

A worn breaker plate on the dual
advance distributors will cause the
breaker point dwell to change as
engine speed and load condition
are varied.
On the dual advance distributor
adjust the test set to 0 o advance,
0 inches vacuum, and 250 rpm.
Adjust the dwell angle to specifications. Apply vacuum to the distributor diaphragm and increase it very
slowly while observing the indicated
dwell angle. The maximum dwell
angle variation should not exceed 6 o
when going from zero to maximum
vacuum at constant rpm. If the dwell
angle variation exceeds this limit,
there is excessive wear at the
stationary subplate pin or the diaphragm.
DISTRIBUTOR SPARK
ADVANCE
The spark advance is checked to
determine if the ignition timing advances in proper relation to engine
speed and load.
Dual Advance Distributor
1. Check the contact dwell. If the
contact dwell is not within specifica-
tions, adjust the breaker points.

2. Check the breaker arm spring
tension and adjust it if necessary.
The dual advance distributor has
two independently operated spark
advance systems. Each system is adjusted separately. Adjust the centrtf
upl advance before adjusting the
vacuum advance.
Centrifugal Advance
1. Operate the distributor in the

direction of rotation and adjust the
speed to the initial rpm setting listed
in the specifications. Move the protractor scale so that one of the flashes
lines up with the zero degree mark.
2. Slowly increase the rpm to the
setting specified for the first advance
reading listed in the specifications.
If the correct advance is not indicated at this rpm, stop the distributor and bend one spring adjustment
bracket to change its tension (Fig.
7. Bend the adjustment bracket
away from the distributor shaft
to decrease advance (increase
spring tension) and toward the
shaft to increase advance (decrease spring tension). Mter the
adjustment is made, identify the
bracket.
3. After an adjustment has been
made to one spring, check the minimum advance point again.
4. Operate the distributor at the
specified rpm to give an advance just
below the maximum. If this advance
is not to specifications, stop the distributor and bend the other spring
bracket to give the correct advance.
5. Check the advance at all rpm
settings listed in the specifications.
Operate the distributor both up and
down the rpm range.
Vacuum Advance
1. Connect the test set vacuum
line to the fitting on the diaphragm.
2. Set the test set to 0 o advance,
0 vacuum, and at 250 rpm.
3. Check the advance at the first
vacuum setting given in the specifications.
4. On 8 cylinder single diaphragm
distributors, if the advance is incorrect, change the calibration washers between the vacuum chamber
spring and out (Fig. 8). After installing or removing the washers, position
the gasket in place and tighten the
nut. The addition of a washer will
decrease advance and the removal of a washer will increase
advance.
5. After one vacuum setting has
been adjusted, the others should be
checked. Do not change the orig-
PART 9-1-
inal rpm setting when going to a

different vacuum setting. If the
other settings are not within limits,
it ind~cates incorrect spring tension,
leakage in the vacuum diaphragm
and/ or line, or the wrong fibre stop
has been installed in the vacuum
chamber of the diaphragm housing.
To check the diaphragm for leakage:
Remove the vacuum line from the
distributor. Adjust the vacuum pressure of a distributor tester to its
maximum position. Hold your hand
over the end of the tester's vacuum
hose and note the maximum reading
obtained. Do not exceed lS inches
HK.
If the maximum reading is 25

inches Hg or less, connect the tester's
vacuum line to the vacuum fitting on
EJ
9-7
SPACING WASHERS
Vacuum
Advance Adjustment
FIG. 8 -
FIG. 7 - Centrifugal
Advance Adjustment
' the diaphragm without changing any

of the adjustments. The maximum
gauge reading should not be less than
it was above. If it is less, the diaphragm is leaking and should be replaced.
BREAKER POINTS AND

CONDENSER
REPLACEMENT
Dual Advance Distributors
Removal
the rotor.
l. Disconnect the primary and the
condenser wires from the breaker
point assembly.
3. Remove the breaker point assembly and condenser retaining
screws. Lift the breaker point assembly and condenser out of the distributor.
Installation
1. Place the breaker point assembly and the condenser in position
and install the retaining screws. Be
sure to place the ground wire under
the breaker point assembly screw
farthest from the breaker point contacts.
l. Align and adjust the breaker
point assembly.
3. Connect the primary and condenser wires to the breaker point assembly.
4. Install the rotor and the distr-ibutor cap.
BREAKER POINT
ALIGNMENT
The vented-type breaker points
must be accurately aligned and strike
squarely in order to realize the full
advantages provided by this design
and assure normal breaker point life.
Any misalignment of the breaker
point surfaces will cause premature
wear, overheating and pitting.

1. Turn the cam so that the breaker points are closed and check the
alignment of the points (Fig. 9 ) .
riil\:a:~
\8) CORRECT-~
ALIGNMENT
CONTACT@
AREA NOT
CENTERED
BEND STATIONARY BRACKET
M~::::@NT
AREA NOT
CENTERED
ISALIGNMENT
OF POINT FACES
FIG. 10- Aligning
Breaker
Points
11019-A
FIG. 9 - Breaker Point
Alignment
If the distributor is in the engine,
close the points by proceeding as
follows:
Disconnect the brown wire and the
red and blue wire from the starter
relay and, with the ignition switch
off, crank the engine by using an auxiliary starter switch between the S
and the battery terminals of the starter relay.
l. Align the breaker points to
make full face contact by bending the
stationary breaker point bracket (Fig.
10) . Do not bend the breaker arm.
3. After the breaker points have

been properly aligned, adjust the
breaker point gap or dwell.
BREAKER POINT
GAP ADJUSTMENT
A scope, a dwell meter, or a feeler
gauge can be used to check the gap
of new breaker points.
A scope or a dwell meter can be
used to check the gap of used breaker
points. Due to the roughness of used
points, it is not advisable to use a
feeler gauge to check the gap.
To check and adjust the breaker
points with a feeler gauge:
1. Check and adjust the breaker
point alignment.
l. Rotate the distributor until the
rubbing block rests on the peak of a
cam lobe.
GROUP 9- IGNITION SYSTEM
9-8
If the distributor is in the engine
place the rubbing block on the peak
of the cam by proceeding as follows:
Disconnect the brown wire and the
red and blue wire from the starter relay and, with the ignition switch off,
crank the engine by using an auxiliary
starter switch between the S and battery terminals of the starter relay.
Insert the correct blade of a clean
feeler gauge between the breaker
points (Fig. 11 ).
Apply a light film of distributor
cam lubricant (MIC66-A) to the
will flutter at high engine rpm resulting in an engine miss.

To check the spring tension on
either the pivot-type or the pivotless
breaker points, place the hooked end
of the spring tension gauge over the
movable breaker point. Pull the gauge
at a right angle (90) to the movable
arm until the breaker points just start
to open (Fig. 12 ) . If the tension is
not within specifications, adjust the
spring tension on the pivot-type
points or replace the breaker point
assembly on the pivotless points.
MORE TENSION
TENSION SPRING
LESS TENSION
Feeler Gouge
FIG. 13 -Adjusting
Breaker Point Spring

Tension
FIG. 11 -Adjusting New
Breaker Point Gap

cam when new points are installed.
Do not use engine oil to lubricate
the distributor cam.
Set the ignition timing.
If a scope or a dwell meter is used
to . adjust new points, be sure the
points are in proper alignment. Also,
set the contact dwell to the low setting. New points must be set to the
low dwell as the rubbing block will
wear down slightly while seating to
the cam.
points with a scope, refer to Ignition
System Tests.
points with a dwell meter, refer to
Distributor Tests.
BREAKER POINT SPRING
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
AUTOLITE
BREAKER POINT SPRING
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Correct breaker point spring tension is essential to proper engine operation and normal breaker point
life. If the spring tension is too great,
rapid wear of the breaker arm rubbing block will result, causing the
breaker point gap to close up and retard the spark timing. If the spring
tension is too weak, the breaker arm
ng
Breaker Point Spring
Tension
rect degree mark should be in line

with the timing pointer when the
timing light flashes .
The other method uses degree
marks on the timing pointer (Fig.
15). These also range from 0 or top
dead center (TDC) to some value before top dead center (BTDC). When
checking the timing, the correct degree mark should be in line with the
timing mark on the crankshaft pulley
when the timing light flashes .
ADJUSTMENT
To check and adjust the timing
with a power timing light, proceed
as follows:
To adjust the spring tension (Fig.

13)
1. Disconnect the primary or distributor lead wire and the condenser

lead.
2. Loosen the nut holding the
spring in position. Move the spring
toward the breaker ann pivot to decrease tension and in the opposite direction to increase tension.
3. Tighten the lock nut, and then
check spring tension. Repeat the adjustment until the specified spring
tension is obtained.
4. Install the primary or distri~
butor lead wire and the condenser
lead.
IGNITION TIMING
TIMING MARK LOCATIONS
There are two methods of showing
the timing position. Both methods
use the cranksl.taft damper and a timing pointer.
One method uses degree marks on
the crankshaft pulley (Fig. 14) . These
degree marks range from 0 or top
dead center (TDC) to some value
before top dead center (BTDC).
When checking the timing, the cor-
12019-A
FIG. 14 -Typical V-8
Engine Timing Marks

1. Remove the plug wire from the
number 1 spark plug.
2. Install the spark plug adaptor
on the spark plug.
3. Connect the plug wire to the
spark plug adaptor.
4. Clamp the timing light spark
plug lead to the spark plug adaptor.
PART 9-1-
9-9
FIG. 16 -6-Cylinder Engine Ignition Wiring -Typical

Removal
1. Disconnect the wires at the
spark plugs and at the distributor cap.
l. Remove the coil high tension
lead.
FIG. 15 -Typical Six
Cylinder Engine Timing

Marks
5. Connect the timing light battery
leads to the battery terminals.
6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line.
7. If necessary, clean and mark
the timing marks.
8. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and point the timing
light at the timing pointer.
9. If the timing is incorrect, loosen
the distributor hold down bolt and
rotate the distributor until the desired
initial advance is obtained.
10. Tighten the distributor hold
down bolt and check the timing again.
12. Remove the timing light and
connect the vacuum line.

Refer to section 3 of this part for
the correct sockets in the distributor

cap. Be sure the wires are forced all
the way down into their sockets and
that they are held firmly in position.
The No. I socket is identified on the
cap. Install the wires in a clockwise
direction in the firing order (1 -5-3-62-4) starting at the No. 1 socket.
3. Install the coil high tension lead.
Push all weatherseals into position.
Installation
1. Connect the wires to the proper
spark plugs.
l. Insert the ends of the wires in
V-8 ENGINES
A typical ignition wiring installation is shown in Fig. 17.
SPARK PLUG WIRE

REPLACEMENT
When removing the wires from the

spark plugs, grasp, twist and pull the
moulded cap only. Do not pull on the
wire because the wire connection inside the cap may become separated
or the weather seal may be damaged.
200 AND 250 C.I.D. SIX

CYLINDER ENGINES
The ignition wire installation is
shown in Fig. 16.
FIG. 17 -Typical V-8 Engine Ignition Wiring
9-10
GROUP 9-
Removal
t. Disconnect the wires from the

spark plugs and distributor cap.
:Z. Pull the wires from the brackets
on the valve rocker arm covers and
remove the wires.
lead.

Installation
1. Insert each wire in the proper
socket of the distributor cap. Be sure

the wires are forced all the way down
into their sockets. The No. 1 socket
is identified on the cap. Install the
wires in a counterclockwise direction
in the firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8)
for 302 engines and
for 351 engines starting at the No. 1
socket. Cylinders are numbered from
front to rear; right bank 1-2-3-4, left
bank 5-6-7-8.
2. Remove the brackets from the
old spark plug wire set and install
them on the new set in the same relative position. Install the wires in the
brackets on the valve rocker arm
covers. (Fig. 17). Connect the wires
EJ
IGNITION SYSTEM
to the proper spark plugs. Install the

coil high tension lead. Be sure the
No.7 spark plug wire is positioned
in the bracket as shown in Fig. 17.
SPARK PLUGS
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wire from each
spark plug by grasping, twisting and
pulling the moulded cap of the wire
only. Do not puB on the wire because the wire coanectlon inside the
cap may become sepu~~ted or the
weather seal may be damaged.
2. Clean the area around each
spark plug port with compressed air,
and then remove the spark plugs.
2. Connect the spark plug wires.
RESISTANCE WIRE REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect the resistance wire
(pink) from the connection to the
. red and green wire adjacent to the
brake master cylinder.
2. Plug in the new resistance wire
and route it with the main wiring
down to the ignition coil. Tape it
to the main wiring.
3. Connect the new resistance wire
to the coil battery terminal.

ADJUSTMENT
Set the spark plug gap to specifications by bending the ground electrode
(Fig. 18).
INSTALLATION
1. Install the spark plugs: Torque
18 mm. to 15-20 ft. lb. and 14 mm.
to 10-15 ft. lb.
FIG. 18- Checking Spark
Plug Gap
SPARK PLUGS
Examine the firing ends of the
spark plugs, noting the type of deposits and the degree of electrode
erosion. Refer to Fig. 19 for the various types of spark plug fouling and
their causes.
Clean the plugs on a sand blast

cleaner, following the manufacturer's
instructions. Do not prolong the use
of the abrasive blast as it will erode
the Insulator and electrodes.
Clean the electrode surfaces with
a small file (Fig. 21). Dress the electrodes to obtain flat parallel surfaces
on both the center and side electrodes.
After cleaning, examine the plug
carefully for cracked or broken insulators, badly pitted electrodes, and
other signs of failure. Replace as required.
DISTRIBUTORS
Soak all parts of the distributor assembly (except the condenser, breaker point assembly, lubricating wick,
vacuum diaphragm, distributor base
oil seal and electrical wiring) in a
mild cleaning solvent or mineral
spirits. Do not use a harsh cleaning
solution. Wipe all parts that can not
be immersed in a solvent with a clean
dry cloth.
After foreign deposits have been
loosened by soaking, scrub the parts
with a soft bristle brush. Do not use
a wire brush, file, or other abrasive
objec;t. Dry the parts with compressed
air.
Examine the bushing surface(s) of
the distributor shaft and the bushing(s) for wear.
Inspect the distributor cam lobes
for scoring and signs of wear. If any
lobe is scored or worn, replace the
cam assembly.
Inspect the breaker plate assembly

for signs of distortion. In addition, on
the dual advance distributor, inspect
the stationary sub-plate for worn nylon contact buttons. Replace the
breaker plate assembly if it is defective.
The breaker point assembly and
condenser should be replaced whenever the distributor is overhauled.
Inspect all electrical wiring for
fraying, breaks, etc., and replace any
that are not in good condition.
Check the distributor base for
cracks or other damage.
Check the diaphragm housing,
bracket, and rod for damage. Check
the vacuum line fitting for stripped
threads or other damage. Test the
vacuum fittings, case, and diaphragm for leakage as explained
under Distributor Tests. Replace all
defective parts.
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGN ITION SYSTEM SERVICE
IDENTIFIED BY BLACK .
DRY FLUFFY CARBON
DEPOSITS ON INSULATOR
TIPS, EXPOSED SHELL
SURFACES AND ELECTRQDES.
CAUSED BY TOO COLD A
PLUG , WEAK IGNITION , DIRTY
AIR CLEANER, DEFECTIVE fUEL
PUMP, TOO RICH A FUEL
MIXTURE , IMPROPERLY
OPERATING HEAT RISER
OR EXCESSIVE IDLING.
CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY WET BLACK DEP.

OS ITS ON THE INSULA TOR SHELL
BORE ELECTRODES CAUSED BY
EXCESSIVE OIL ENTERING COM BUS.
TION CHAMBER THROUGH WORN
RINGS AND PISTONS, EXCESSIVE
CLEARANCE
BETWEEN VALVE
GUIDES AND STEMS, OR WORN OR
LOOSE BEARINGS. CAN BE CLEANED
IF ENGINE IS NOT REPAIRED, USE
A HOTTER PLUG.
IDENTIFIED BY DEPOSIT
BUILD-UP CLOSING GAP
BETWEEN ELECTRODES .
CAUSED BY OIL OR
CARBON FOULING. IF
DEPOSITS ARE NOT EXCESSIVE,
THE PLUG CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY DARK
GRAY , BLACK , YELLOW
OR TAN DEPOSITS OR A
FUSED GLAZED COATING
ON THE INSULATOR TIP .
CAUSED BY HIGHLY
LEADED GASOLINE. CAN
BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY LIGHT TAN OR

GRAY DE POSITS ON THE
FIRING TIP
CAN tlE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY SEVERELY
ERODED OR WORN ELECTRODES.
CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR .
SHOULD BE REPLACED.
PRE-IGNITION
IDtNTifiED [)) MELTEC

OR SPOTTY DEPOSITS
RESEMBLING BUBBLES
OR BLISTERS.
CAUSED BY SUDDEN
ACCE LE RAT ION . CAN BE
CLEANED.
FIG. 19 -Spark
IDENTIFIED BY A WHITE UR LIGHT

GRAY INSULATOR WITH SMALL
BLACK OR GRAY BROWN SPOTS
AND WITH BLUISH-BURNT, APPEAR.
ANCE OF ELECTRODES, CAUSED
BY ENGINE OVERHEATING. WRONG
TYPE OF FUEL, LOOSE SPARK
PLUGS, TOO HOT A PLUG, LOW
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR INCOR.
RECT IGNITION TIMING. REPLACE
THE PLUG.
Plug Inspection
IDENliFIED BY MEL TED

ELECTRODES AND PDSSIBL Y
BL~TEREDIN SULATOR.
METALLIC DEPOSITS ON
INSULA TOR INDICATE ENGINE
DAMAGE.
CAUSED BY WRONG TYPE
OF FUEL . INCORRECT IGNITION
TIMING OR ADVANCE, TOO HOT
A PLUG. BURNT VALVES OR
ENGINE OVERHEATING.
REPLACE THE PLUG.
9-11
9-12
CONDITION
CAUSED IY
Contacts should be replaced if the contact surfaces
are severely black, extremely dirty or show evidence
of excessive oil or grease; such as to cause the
voltage drop across the points to exceed 250 Milli
Volts, when the points are closed 'lllld the ignition
switched on.
EXCESSIVE METAL
TRANSFER OR PITTING
Incorrect alignment.
Incorrect voltage regulator setting.
Radio condenser installed to the distributor side
of the coil.
Ignition condenser of improper capacity.
Extended operation of the engine at speeds other
than normal.
FIG. 20- Breaker Point Inspection

The breaker point assembly consists of the stationary point bracket
assembly, breaker arm and the primary wire terminal.
Breaker points should be inspected,
cleaned and adjusted as necessary.
Breaker points can be cleaned with
chloroform and a stiff bristle brush.
Replace the breaker point assembly
if the contacts are badly burned or
excessive metal transfer between the
points is evident (Fig. 20). Metal
transfer is considered excessive when
it equals or exceeds the gap setting.
SECONDARY WIRING
Wipe the wire with a damp cloth
and check for fraying, breaks or
cracked insulation. Inspect the terminals and weather seals for looseness or corrosion. Replace any wires
that are not in good condition.
COIL
Wipe the coil with a damp cloth
and check for any cracks or other defects.
Clean the distributor cap with a

soft bristle brush and mild cleaning
solvent or mineral spirits. Dry the
cap with compressed air. Inspect the
cap for cracks, burned contacts, permanent carbon tracks or dirt or corrosion in the sockets. Replace the cap
if it is defective.
DESCRIPTION
The temperature sensitive vacuum
control valve is located in the engine
coolant outlet. Its function is to
regulate the ignition spark control
vacuum applied to the distributor at
engine idle.
OPERATION
During extended idle periods,
under high ambient temperature
conditions with the air conditioner
operating, the valve regulates the
ignition timing according to engine
temperature.
As the engine coolant temperature
rises above normal the vacuum
control valve is progressively opened
so applying vacuum to the distributor spark control unit and
advancing the ignition timing.
This has the effect of:
1. Increasing the engine idle speed.
2. Increasing the air flow through
the radiator.
3. Increasing coolant flow through
the engine.
4. Increasing thermal efficiency.
FIG. 21- Cleaning Spark
Plug Electrode
ROTOR
Clean the rotor with a soft bristle
brush and mild cleaning solvent or
mineral spirits. Dry the rotor with
compressed air. Inspect the rotor for
cracks or burning. Replace the rotor
if it is defective.
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM
CONTROL VALVE
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
250 C.I.D. 2V, 302 C.I.D. and 351

C.I.D. engines.
Check that all vacuum lines are

correctly fitted and free from leaks.
Inspect valve for correct operation
as outlined in Part 2 prior to attempting any engine tuning procedures.
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM
ADVANCE CONTROL VALVE
The distributor vacuum advance
control valve shown in . Fig. 23 is
fitted to 250 C.I.D. IV engines equipped with air conditioning and to all
B 3104-A
FIG 22 - Distributor Vaccum

Control Valve
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM
CONTROL VALVE TEST
(TEMPERATURE SENSING
VALVE)
1. Make certain that all vacuum
hoses are properly routed and installed.
2. Attach a tachometer to the engine.
3. Bring the engine up to operating
temperature and be certain that the
choke plate is in the vertical position.
Engine must not be overheated.
4. Note the engine idle rpm with
transmission in neutral and carburettor
throttle in the curb idle positiorr.
from the intake manifold at the tern-
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE

perature sensing valve and plug or
clamp the hose.
6. Note engine idle rpm with the
hose disconnected. If no change in
idle speed, the valve is acceptable up
to this point. If there is a drop in idle
speed of 100 rpm or more, the valve
should be replaced.
7. Install vacuum line on manifold
fitting; then verify that the all season
cooling mixture is up to specifications,
and that the correct radiator cap is
installed.
8. Cover the radiator sufficiently to
induce a high temperature condition.
9. Continue to run the engine until
the red high temperature light comes
on or the temperature indicated on the
temperature gauge is at the high end
of the band indicating an above normal temperature.
If the engine idle speed has by this
time increased 100 rpm or more, the
temperature sensing valve is satisfactory. If not, it should be replaced.
Do not overheat the engine.
9-13
INTAKE
MANIFOLD FITTING
ACCESSORY OUTLETS
DISTR !SUTOR
VACUUM CONTROL
VALVE
OR CAPPED
CARBURETOR
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM UNIT
FIG 23 - Ignition Vacuum Schematic
9-14
PART
9-2
DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS

BOSCH
6 and 8 Cyl. Models
Page
9-14
Section
1 Description and Operation
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs

Breaker Point and Condenser Replacement
9-14
9-14
9-15
Pap
9-15
9-15
9-15
9-15
9-17
__ -- _

Bench Disassembly ~-
Bench Assembly

advance systems. A centrifugal advance mechanism is located below
the stationary sub-plate assembly
and a vacuum operated spark control
diaphragm is located on the side of
the distributor base.
As speed increases, the centrifugal
weights cause the cam to advance or
move ahead with respect to tlie distributor drive shaft. The rate of advance is controlled by calibrated
springs.
The vacuum advance mechanism
has a spring loaded diaphragm which
is connected to the breaker plate. The
spring loaded side of the diaphragm
is airtight and is connected through
a vacuum line to the carburettor
throttle bore. When the throttle plate
opens, the distributor vacuum passage
is exposed to manifold vacuum, which
causes the diaphragm to move against
the tension of the spring. This causes
the movable breaker plate to rotate on
the stationary sub-plate. The breaker
point rubbing block then moves
against distributor rotation and advances the spark timing.
EJ
Section
Removal
Installation
LUBRICATING WICK
ADVANCE
ADJUSTING BRACKET
WEIGHT
STOP PLATE
FIG. 1-Typical Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
BREAKER POINT AND

CONDENSER REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Unfasten spring clips holding
distributor cap in place and remove
cap.
2. Carefully lift rotor from the
cam spindle.
3. Remove contact breaker lead
from primary terminal connector.
4. Remove spacing shims (if any)

from contact breaker point pin.
5. Remove screw securing contact
breaker assembly to breaker plate
and lift off contact breaker assembly.
Care must be taken to prevent spacing shims from under moving contact
from being dislodged and dropped into the distributor body. The contact
breaker assembly may be separated
by depressing the moving contact

spring blade until the terminal block
is clear of the stationary point.
INSTALLATION
1. Instal stationary contact and

attaching screw.
2. Instal contact height aligning
shims on pivot post and instal contact
breaker arm.
PART 9-2-DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS

3. Replace contact breaker arm
retaining clip on pivot post.
4. Replace contact breaker lead on
primary terminal.
5. The breaker points must strike
squarely, to align the breaker points
carefully bend the stationary point
bracket until full face contact is ob
tained.
6. Reset the breaker point gap to
specifications.
7. Replace rotor and distributor
cap.
CONDENSER:
REMOVAL
1. Remove distributor cap.
2. Disconnect primary lead from
EJ
REPLACE
1. Position condenser and tighten
attaching screw.
2. Slide terminal block into distributor body and connect primary
lead to coil terminal.
3. Connect breaker point lead to
terminal block.
4. Replace distributor cap.
Breaker Point Gap Adjustment

A scope, a dwell meter, or a feeler
gauge may be used to check the gap
of. new breaker points.
A scope or dwell meter can be used
to check the gap of used points. Due
to the roughness of used points, it is
not advisable to use a feeler gauge to
check the gap.
Adjustment of the cam angle or
contact gap is made by loosening the
contact plate securing screw and inserting the blade of a screwdriver between the two dowel pins on the base
plate and the slot in the contact plate.
Turn screwdriver clockwise to decrease cam angle and anti-clockwise
to increase cam angle.
REMOVAL
the coil and remove the distributor
cap.
2. Disconnect the vacuum line at
the distributor.
3. Scribe a mark on the distributor
body, indicating the position of the
rotor, and scribe another mark on the
body and engine block, indicating the
position of the body in the block.
These lines will be used as guides
when installing the distributor in the
correctly timed engine.
4. Remove the retaining bolt and
lock washer and lift the distributor
out of the block.
EJ
coil terminal.
3. Disconnect breaker point lead
from distributor primary terminal,
and slide terminal block from distributor body.
4. Remove condenser attaching
screw and lift out condenser and wire
assembly.
9-15
Do not rotate the cn~~kshaft wblle

the distributor Is removed, or It wiD
be necessary to dme the engine.
INSTALLATION
1. If the crankshaft has not been
rotated while the distributor was removed, position the distributor in the
block with the rotor aligned with the
mark previously scribed on the distributor body.
Install the distributor retaining
screw.
2. If the crankshaft has been rotated while the distributor was removed, rotate the crankshaft until
the No. 1 piston is on TDC after the
compression stroke. Position the distributor in the block with the rotor at
the No. l firing position. Make sure
the oU pump Intermediate drlve shaft
Is properly seated in the oU pump.
Install, but do not tighten, the distributor retaining bolt. Rotate the
distributor body clockwise until the
breaker points are just starting to
open. Tighten the retaining bolt.
3. Connect the distributor primary
wire and install the distributor cap.
4. Start the engine and adjust the
ignition timing to specifications with
a timing light. Connect the distributor vacuum line, and check the advance with the timing light when the
eng;.1e is accelerated.

section, it will be necessary to remove
the distributor from the engine and
place it in a vice.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Whileholdingthedistributorcap
(15) in place unfasten the spring clips
(18) then remove the cap.
2. Carefully remove the rotor (17)
from the cam spindle.
3. Remove the contact breaker
cable from the primary terminal flat
pin connector.
4. Remove screw and washers (2)
and lift out the contact set.
5. Remove screw and washer assemblies (22) and lift out the con-
denser and primary terminal block.

6. Remove spring clip (23) and
remove the vacuum control unit.
7. Remove screws and washers (4)
and lift out the contact breaker plate.
8. Remove the drive gear securing
roll pin (20) and remove tlu: drive
gear (21). On 8 cylinder distributors
remove the roll pin and drive shaft
collar.
9. Extract the distributor shaft
(13) from the housing (19) by applying light pressure at the drive gear
end.
10. Mark the advance weights,
springs and cam posts to ensure correct reassembly. If required remove
the springs (9 and 10).
11. To remove circlip (6) and cam
(8) from shaft (13) place the shaft

upright in a soft jaw vice so that the
vice jaws support the driving plate.
Lever the cam and circlip off the
drive shaft with two screw-drivers
inserted between the cam and driving
plate.
NOTE: Do not remove the lubrication felt (5) from the cam prior to
operation 11 as it will prevent the
circlip (6) from springing out and
becoming lost.
12. Remove the centrifugal advance weights (11) and fibre washers.
13. Remove lubrication felt (5),
circlip (6) and washer (7) from the
distributor cam.
9-16
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
GROUP 9-
Contact Set
Screw & Washer Conta_ct Set to Breaker Plate
Contact Breaker Plate
Screw & Washer Breaker Plate to Dist Housing
Lubrication Felt
Circlip Cam Assy to Dist. Shaft
Washer Cam Assy to Dist. Shaft
Cam Assy
Advance Weight Secondary Spring.
IGNITION SYSTEM
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Advance Weight Primary Spring

Centrifugal Advance Weights
Fibre Washer Weights to Driving Plate
Distributor Shaft & Driving Plate Assy
Spacer Shim.
Distributor Cap
Carbon Brush and Spring
Rotor
Spring Clip Cap to Housing
Distributor Housing
Roll Pin Gear to Shaft
Helical Drive Gear
Cheese Head Screw and Washer Condenser
and Vacuum Control to Dist. Housing
23 Spring Clip Vacuum unit Rod
24 Vacuum Control Unit
/ 0-<....-4
i--16
--5
c---6
23-~
0--7
22
.....-10
25 Condenser with Terminal and Primary Connection

Assy
26 Breaker Plate Earth Lead and Nut.
14-Q
21
FIG. 2 - Distributor Assembly

(6 cyl. shown)

Checking Dismantled
Distributor Components
Check bearing surfaces for wear
and replace worn parts. Remember
when checking the shaft bushing that
the lower bearing for the shaft is in
the engine block. New sintered bushings should be soaked in oil for an
hour before installation. Use the correct mandrel for pressing out and
replacing bushes. Test condenser by
means of a suitable tester. The bracket of the condenser must make good
contact with the distributor housing.
Contact points must be secure and
well aligned; adjust height with
shims. Displaced contact points
should be aligned by means of a setting tool. The rubbing block of the
contact breaker lever should not be
worn. Contact spring tension must be
tested with a spring balance.
Failure to comply with any one
of the above requirements makes it
necessary to replace the contact set.
Distorted or stretched advance
9-17
springs must be replaced with the

correct springs as the springs determine the advance curve which is
important to optimum engine performance. The vacuum control unit
must be tested for leaks and, in the
event of a leak being found, the
complete unit must be replaced.
Shaft End Float

Shaft end float must be adjusted to
specifications by placing or removing
shims from between the drive gear
and the housing on 6 cylinder distributors or between the drive shaft
collar and housing on 8 cylinder
distributors.
Reassembly
To assemble distributor reverse
disassembly procedure.
Important: Cleanliness is essential,
oil and grease must be kept away
from the electrical contact surfaces
and insulating parts.
The earth lead from the contact
breaker plate must be connected with
the housing by means of the screw
which secures the vacuum advance
unit.
The cam to driveshaft circlip can
be installed using a piece of 0.25
steel tube to press the circlip over
the shaft.
Testing Advance Curve

The advance curve must be checked to specifications on an approved
distributor test bench.
Centrifugal Advance
Adjustment is made by bending
the spring bracket at the cam to
increase or decrease spring tension.
A slot in the base plate gives access
to the spring brackets.
Vacuum Advance
The vacuum advance curve can be
tested by applying a depression to
the vacuum unit and reading the
degrees of advance on the scale.
The vacuum unit is not adjustable
and must be replaced if advance is
not to specification.
FIG. 4- 8 CYL ANTI-CLOCKWISE

ROTATION
FIG. 3 - 6 Cylinder Bosch Distributor -Typical
FIG. 5-6 CYL. CLOCKWISE

ROTATION
9-18
PART
9-3
DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
MOTORCRAFT
Section
l
Page
Description and Operation ...... ... ... .. ....
9-18
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ... ... ......

9-19
Vacuum Diaphragm Replacement ...... ...... ...... 9-19
Cam and Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
Section
Replacement
...... .. .... ...... ...... ......
3 Removal and Installation .. .... ...... .... ..
4 Major Repair Operations ...... ..... .. ......
Bench Disassembly ...... ...... ..... . .. .. ..
Bf.nch Assembly ...... ...... ...... ... .. ......
......
......
.. ....
..... .
..... .
Pare
..... . 9-19
..... . 9-21
..... . 9-21
921
...... 9-22

advance systems. A centrifugal advance mechanism (Fig. 1) is located
below the stationary sub-plate assembly, and a vacuum operated spark
control diaphragm is located on the
side of the distributor base (Fig. 2).
As speed increases, the centrifugal
weights cause the cam to advance or
move ahead with respect to the distributor drive shaft. The rate of advance is controlled by calibrated
springs.
The vacuum advance mechanism
has a spring-loaded diaphragm

which is connected to the breaker
plate. The spring-loaded side of the
diaphragm is airtight and is connected through a vacuum line to the
carburettor throttle bore. When the
throttle plates open, the distributor
vacuum passage is exposed to manifold vacuum, which causes the diaphragm to move against the tension
of the spring. This action causes the
movable breaker plate to pivot on
the stationary sub-plate. The breaker
point rubbing block, which is positioned on the opposite side of the
LUBRICATING WICK
ADVANCE
ADJUSTING BRACKFT
CAM PLATE CONTROL SLOT
FIG. 1 -
Typical Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
cam from the pivot pin, then

moves. against distributor rotation
and advances the spark timing. As
the movable breaker plate is rotated
from retard position to full advance
position, the dwell decreases slightly.
This is because the breaker point
rubbing block and the cam rotate on
different axes.
Note: A dual diaphragm advance/
retard unit is fitted to some engines,
however the retard side of the unit
has been plugged and the vacuum
side operates in the same manner as
the single diaphragm unit.
9-19
COIL HIGH TENSION

WIRE TERMII~AL
FIG. 2 - Vacuum Advance Mechanism
EJ
BREAKER POINT AND

CONDENSER REPLACEMENT
The replacement procedures are
covered in page 9-7.
BREAKER PLATE AND

SUB-PLATE REPLACEMENT
Refer to Figs. 3 and 4 for the
proper location of parts.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
the rotor.
2. Remove the vacuum line from
the diaphragm fitting.
3. Remove the spring clip that
secures the diaphragm link to the
movable breaker plate.
4. Remove the diaphragm retaining screws and slide the diaphragm
out of the distributor.
INSTALLATION
1. Slide the diaphragm into the
opening in the distributor and place
the link in its position.
2. Install the spring clip that
movable breaker plate and the
diaphragm retaining screws.
3. Install the vacuum line on the
diaphragm fitting.
4. Install the rotor and the distributor cap.
REMOVAL
the rotor.
2. Remove the breaker point assembly, the condenser, and the
vacuum diaphragm.
3. Working from the inside of the
distributor, pull the primary wire
through the opening in the distributor.
4. Remove the.spring clip, the flat
washer, and the spring washer securing the breaker plate to the sub-plate.
5. Remove the sub-plate retaining
screws and lift both plates out of the
distributor.
INSTALLATION
1. Place the breaker plate in
position on the sub-plate.
2. Install the spring washer, the
flat washer, and the spring clip that
secures the breaker plate to the
sub-plate.
3. Install the sub-plate hold down
screws (the ground wire should be
under the sub-plate hold down screw
near the primary wire opening in the

distributor).
distributor, push the primary wire
5. Install the breaker point assembly, the condenser and the vacuum
diaphragm.
CAM AND CENTRIFUGAL
ADVANCE MECHANISM
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
the rotor.
screws and lift the plate assembly
4. Mark one of the distrjbutor
weight springs and its brackets.
Also mark one of the weights and
its pivot pin.
5. Carefully unhook and remove
the weight springs.
GROUP 9-IGNITION SYSTEM
9-20
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
GROUND WIRE
LINK SPRING CLIP
B227S B
BREAKER POINT ASSEMBLY
FIG. 3 - Breaker Plate Installed- Pivotless Points

DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING
SU3-PLATE
6. Lift the lubricating wick from

the cam assembly. Remove the cam .
assembly retainer and lift the cam
assembly off the distributor shaft.
Remove the thrust washer.
7. Remove the weight retainers
and lift the weights out of the
distributor.
INSTALLATION
1. Fill the grooves in the weight
pivot pins with distributor cam
lubricant (MIC66-A).
2. Position the weights in the distributor (the marked weight is
placed on the marked pivot pin)
and install the weight retainers.
3. Place the thrust washer on the
shaft.
4. Fill the grooves in the upper
portion of the distributor shaft with
distributor cam lubricant (MIC66-A).
5. Install the cam assembly. Be
sure that the marked spring
bracket on the cam assembly is
near the marked spring bracket
on the stop plate.
If a new cam is being installed,
make sure that the cam is installed
with the hypalon covered stop in the
correct cam plate control slot. This
can be done by measuring the length
of the slot used on the old cam and
by using the corresponding slot on
the new cam. Some of the cams will
have the size of the slot in degrees
stamped near the slot. H the wrong
slot is used, an incorrect maximum advance will be obtained.
Place a light film of distributor
cam lubricant on the distributor cam
lobes. Install the retainer and the
wick. Saturate the wick with SAE
lOW engine oil.
6. Install the weight springs. Be
sure that the marked spring is
attached to the marked spring
brackets.
7. Install the sub-plate assembly.
ADJUSTMENTS
Refer to page 9-7 for the adjust
ment procedures.
LINK 3PRING CLIP
82274-B
FIG. 4 - Breaker Plate Installed- Pivot-Type Points
PART 9-3- DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
EJ
REMOVAL
the coil. Disconnect the vacuum
advance line at the distributor.
Remove the distributor cap.
2. Scribe a mark on the distributor body and engine block indicating
the position of the body in the block,
and scribe another mark on the distributor body indicating the position
of the rotor. These marks can be used
as guides when installing the distributor in a correctly timed engine.
3. Remove the distributor hold
down bolt and clamp. Lift the distributor out of the block.
Do not rotate the crankshaft
while the diStributor is removed,
or it will be necessary to time the
engine.
EJ
Install, but do not tighten, the retaining clamp and bolt. Rotate the
distributor body counterclockwise
until the breaker points are just starting to open. Tighten the clamp.
2. If the crankshaft has not been
rotated, position the distributor in the
block with the rotor aligned with the
mark previously scribed on the distributor body, and the marks on the
distributor body and engine block in
alignment. Install the retaining clamp.
4. Connect the primary wire to
the coil.
5. Check the ignition timing with
a timing light and adjust to specifications if necessary. Connect the
vacuum line, and check the advance
with the timing light when the
engine is accelerated.
INSTALLATION
1. If the crankshaft was rotated
while the distributor was removed
from the engine, it will be necessary
to time the engine. Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 piston is on TDC
after the compression stroke. Align
the TDC mark on the timing pointer
with the timing pin on the crankshaft
damper. Position the distributor in
the block with the rotor at the No. 1
firing position.
Make sure the oil pump intermediate shaft properly engages
the distributor shaft. It may be
necessary to crank the engine
with the starter, after the distributor drive gear is partially
engaged, in order to engage the
oil pump intermediate shaft.

section, it will be necessary to
remove the distributor from the
engine and place it in a vice.
BENCH DISASSEMBLY
The distributor assembly is shown
in Fi~;. 6.
1. Remove the rotor.
2. Disconnect the primary and the
condenser wires from the breaker
point assembly.
3. Remove the breaker point assembly and condenser retaining
screws. Lift the breaker point assembly and condenser out of the distnbutor.
.
.
4. Remove the spnng chp that
Secures the diaphragm link tll the
FIG. 5- Gear Pin Removal or
Installation
PIN-12145 -
HOUSING-12130
SPRING-12191 o 12192
EG T
~
W I H -12188
WEIGHT RETAINER-379\023
lf.IJ -,.._
' '
""
'
;'
DRIVE GEAR-12390
' '
~ \
UPPER BUSHING , .
12120
'
COLLAR
----e.
CLAMP- 12144
CAM ASSEMBLY-12210~
RETAINER-12177
b...
STATIONARY SUB-PLATE-12151'-....._
moveable breaker plate.

5. Remove the diaphragm retaining screws and slide the diaphragm
7. Remove the spring clip, the flat
washer, and the spring washer securing the breaker plate to the sub-plate.
-12175
.,
~SPRING-12191 o 12192
,
1
<~
CLAMP12144
~DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLy_
12370
STOP
PINR-ET12U1R4N5 SPRING
GASKET
'"
0,~
CALIBRATING WASHERS
VACUUM CONNECTION
PRIMARY WIRE-1221~
FIG. 6- Distributor Assembly
9-22

screws and lift both plates out of the
distributor.
9. Mark one of the distributor
weight springs and its brackets.
Also mark one of the weights and
its pivot pin.
10. Carefully unhook and remove
ihe weight springs.
11. Lift the lubricating wick from
the cam assembly. Remove the cam
assembly retainer and lift the cam
assembly off the distributor shaft.
Remove the thrust washer.
12. Remove the weight retainers
and lift the weights out of the
distributor.
13. Remove the distributor cap
clamps.
14. If the gear and shaft are to
be used again, mark the gear and
the shaft so that the pin holes
can be easily aligned for assembly. Remove the gear roll pin (Fig.
5), and then remove the gear
(Fig. 7).
15. Remove the shaft collar roll
pin (Fig. 8).
16. Invert the distributor and
place it on a support plate in a
position that will allow the distributor shaft to clear the support
plate and press the shaft out of the
collar and the distributor housing
(Fig. 9).
BENCH ASSEMBLY
ORIGINAL SHAFT AND GEAR
1. Oil the new upper bushing, and
position it on the bushing replacer
Preu ltom
FIG. 9 -Shaft Removal

tool. Install the bushing (Fig. 12).
When the tool bottoms against the
distributor base, the bushing will be
installed to the correct depth.
2. Burnish the bushing to the
proper size (Fig. 13).
3. Invert the distributor and install
and burnish the lower bushing in a
similar manner.
4. Oil the shaft and slide it into
the distributor body.
FIG. 7- Gear Removal

17. Refer to Figs. 10 and 11 and
remove the distributor shaft upper
and lower bushings.
FIG. 8 -Collar Pin Removal or

Installation
FIG. 10- Lower Bushing
Removal
5. Place the collar in position on

the shaft and align the holes in the
collar and the shaft, then install a
new pin. Install the distributor cap
clamps.
6. Check the shaft end play with
a feeler gauge placed between the
collar and the base ofthe distributor.
If the end play is not within specifications, replace the shaft and gear.
7. Attach the distributor shaft
supporting tool to the distributor.
Tighten the backing screw in the tool
enough to remove all shaft end play.
8. Install the assembly in a press.
Press the gear on the shaft (Fig. 14),
using the marks made on the gear
and shaft as guides to align the pin
holes.
9. Remove the distributor from
the press. Install the gear retaining
pin (Fig. 5).
10. Position the distributor in a
vice. Fill the grooves in the weight
pivot pins with a distributor cam
lubricant.
11. Position the weights in the distributor (the marked weight is placed
on the marked pivot pin) and install
the weight retainers.
12. Place the thrust washer on
the shaft.
13. Fill the grooves in the upper
portion of the distributor shaft with
distributor cam lubricant.
14. Install the cam assembly. Be
sure that the marked spring
bracket on the cam assembly is
near the marked spring bracket
on the stop plate.
If a new cam is being installed,
make sure that the cam is installed
with the hypalon covered stop in the
correct cam plate control slot. This
can be done by measuring the length
of the slot used on the old cam and
by using the corresponding slot on
the new cam. Some of the cams will
have the size of the slot in degrees
stamped near the slot. If the wrong
slot is used, an incorrect maximum advance will be obtained.
Place a light film of distributor
cam lubricant on the distributor cam
lobes. Install the retainer and the
wick. Saturate the wick with SAE
lOW engine oil.
15. Install the weight springs. Be
sure that the marked $pring is
attached to the marked spring
brackets.
16. Place the breaker plate in
position on the sub-plate.
17. Install the spring washer, the
flat washer, and the spring clip that
secures the breaker plate to the subplate.
9-23
and install the retaining screws. Be

sure to place the ground wire under
the breaker point assembly screw farthest from the breaker point contacts.
Align and adjust the breaker point
assembly by following the procedure
on page 97.
23. Connect the primary and condenser leads to the breaker point
assembly.
25. Check and adjust (if necessary) the centrifugal and vacuum
advance (Refer to page 9-6).
FIG. 14- Original Shaft and
Gear Installation
FIG. 11 -Upper Bushing
Removal
BUSHING
FIG. 13- Burnishing Bushing
the shaft to the specified distance

from the bottom face of the gear to
the bottom face of the distributor
mounting flange (Fig. 15). Drill a
!-inch hole through the shaft using
the hole in the gear as a pilot.
!l. Remove the distributor from
NEW SHAFT AND GEAR
FIG. 12- Upper Bushing
Installation
18. Install the sub-plate hold down
screws (the ground wire should be
under the sub-plate hold down screw
near the primary wire opening in the
distributor).
through the opening in distributor.
20. Slide the diaphragm into the
opening in the distributor and place
the link in its position.
21. Install the spring clip that
moveable breaker plate.
_ 22. Place the breaker point assembly and the condenser in position
The shaft and gear are replaced

as an assembly. One part should not
be replaced without replacing the
other. Refer to Fig. 6 for the correct
location of the parts.
1. Follow steps 1, 2, 3, and 4
under Bench Assembly Original
Shaft and Gear.
2. Attach the distributor shaft supporting tool to the distributor and
install the assembly in a vice. Insert
a 0. 024-inch feeler gauge between
the backing screw and the shaft.
Tighten the backing screw on the
tool enough to remove all shaft end
play. Remove the feeler gauge and
allow the shaft to rest on the backing
screw. Slide the collar on the shaft.
While holding the collar in place
against the distributor base (Fig. 15),
drill a !-inch hole through the shaft
using the access opening in the collar
as a pilot.
3. Position the gear on the end of
the shaft. Install the assembly in a
press.
4. With the backing screw on the
support tool tightened enough to remove all end play, press the gear on
DRILL~
INCH
HOLE THROUGH
SHAFT
FIG. 15- New Shaft and Gear
Installation
the press and remove the support
tool. Install the collar retaining pin
(Fig. 8) and the gear retaining pin
(Fig. 5).
6. Complete the assembly byfollowing steps 9 to 25 under Installing
Original Shaft ancf'Gkr.
>,
9-24
PART
9-4
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL
200 & 260
302
351-2V
AUTO
351-2V MANUAL
351-4V MAN & AUTO
Breaker Arm Spring Tension (Ounces)

Contact Spacing (Inches)
Dwell Angle at Idle Speed
18-22
012-.016
36-40
17-22
.013-.018
2630
17-22
.013-.018
26-30
17-21
.021
24-29
CONDENSER
Capacity (Micro Farads)
Minimum Leakage (Meg. ohms)
Maximum Series Leakage (ohms)
0.15-0.20
5
1
0.15-0.20
5
1
0.15-0.20
5
1
0.21-0.25
10
1
COIL
Primary Resistance (ohms) @ 75 F.
Secondary Resistance (ohms) @ 75F.
Amperage Draw-Engine Stopped
-Engine Idling
Primary Circuit Resistor @ 75 F.
1.40-1.54
8000-8800
4.5
2.5
1.30-1.40
1.40 -1.54
8000-8800
4.5
2.5
1.30-1 .40
1.40-1.54
8000-8800
4.5
2.5
1.30-1.40
1.40-1.54
7500-8700
4.5
2.5
1.30-1.40
SPARK PLUGS
Type ( Motorcraft)
Size
Gap (Inches)
Torque (Ft Lbs.)
AF32
BF42
14MM
18MM
0.032-0.036 0.032-0.036
15-20
10-15
AF32
14MM
0.032-0.036
10-15
AF32
14MM
0.032-0.036
10-15
IGNITION TIMING INITIAL ADVANCE

Manual and Automatic Transmission 8TDC for
altitude operation and/or to obtain optimum
engine performance and fuel economy the initial
ignition timing may be advanced 30 over the
normal setting. No further improvement will be
achieved by advancing beyond this point.
DISTRIBUTOR DIMENSIONS
Shaft end play (inches) Distributor removed
0.022-0.033
Distance from bottom of mounting flange to bottom 2.510-2.515
of gear (inches)
0.024-0.035
4.031-4.038
0.024-0.035
4.031-4.038
0.024-0.035
4.031 -4.038
Note: Some 351 C.I.D. engines are fitted with ARF 42 spark plugs as original equipment. The service replacement is AF32.
PART 9-4 SPECIFICATIONS

ADVANCE CHARACTERISTICS
Note:
The advance characteristics given apply to the

distributor with the indicated nwmber only. The
distributor number is stamped on the distributor
housing.
For all distributors set test stand to 0 at 250
R.P.M. and 0 inches of mercury.
ARD1DE12100-B 200 C.I.D. H.C. BLUE DOT

CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance
500
1-4
0-1
5
800
6-9
7
1.5-6
1000
9-12
8
3.5-8
1500
12-14
10
7-9
2000
14-16
Maximum advance
16
9
ARD1DE-12100-CA 200 C.I.D. L.C. BLACK DOT

CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
500
0-1
700
1-.35
5
0-1
1000
5.25-8.75
7
1.5-5.5
1500
12.25-14.5
10
7.5-11
1700
14-16
12
9-11
Maximum advance
16
11
ARD1DE-12100-DA 200 C.I.D. L.L.C. (EXPORT ONLY)
YELLOW DOT
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
600
0-.5
800
1-4
5
0
1200
8.5-11.5
7
0-1
1500
14-17
10
1-4
1800
16-18
15
5-7.75
2100
17-19
20
8.75-11 .25
Maximum advance
19
11.25
ARD10E 12100-C 250 C.I.D. H.C. RED DOT
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance
500
0-2
800
3.5-5.5
0-1
5
1000
6-8
7
1.5-6
1500
9.5-11.5
3.5-8
8
2000
13-15
10
7-9
2300
15-17
Maximum advance
17
9
ARD10E 12100-EA 250 C.I.C. L.C. WHITE DOT
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
Advance
in. Hg
600
0
800
0-1.5
6
0
1200
4-6
0-3
8
1900
12-14
10
3-6
9-11
2350
15-17
15
Maximum advance
17
11
9-25
ARD10E-12100-D 250 C.I.D. 2V H.C. GREEN DOT

CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance
500
0
600
0-2
4-6
800
5
0
5-7
1000
8
0-2.75
1500
7.5-9.5
12
4-6.5
2300
11.5-13.5
17
8.5-11
Maximum advance
13.5
11
ARD1AE-12100-AB 302 C.I.D. H.C. RED DOT

CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
350
0
500
0-2.25
750
4-6.5
0-3.25
5
1000
7.5-9.5
10
6.75-11.25
1500
10.25-12.25
15
11 -13
2000
12.75-14.75
20
11-13
2400
15-17
25
11-13
Maximum advance
17
13
ARD1AE-12100-EA 351 C.I.D. 2V AUTO YELLOW DOT
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
350
0
500
0-1 .75
750
3.25-5.25
5
0-3
1000
7-9
10
6.25-9.75
1500
9.5-11.5
15
8.5-10.5
2000
11.75-13.75
20
8.5-10.5
2150
12.5-14.5
Maximum advance
14.5
10.5
DOOF-12127-T 351 C.I.D. 2V MANUAL
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
350
0-0.5
500
0-1 .5
5
0-2
750
2-4
10
5-8
4.5-6.5
1000
15
9-12
1500
7.75-10
10-12.5
20
2000
10.0-12.5
25
10-12.5
2300
11.5-14
Maximum advance
14
12.5
DOOF-12127-G 351 C.I.D. 4V AUTO
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
350
0-0.5
500
0-0.5
750
3-5
0-1
5
1000
5.5-7.5
10
1.25-4.5
1500
6.75-9
15
5.5-8.5
2000
7.75-10.25
20
8-10.5
8.5-12.0
25
8-10.5
2300
Maximum advance
12
10.5
DOOF-12127-V 351 C.I.D. 4V MANUAL
CENTRIFUGAL
VACUUM
Distributor r.p.m.
Advance 0
in. Hg
Advance 0
350
0-0.5
500
0-0.5
0-1
5
750
0.75-2.75
1-4.5
10
1000
3.75-5.75
15
5.5-8.5
1500
8.5-10.75
20
8-10.5
2000
10.25-12.75
25
8-10.5
2300
11.5-14.0
Maximum advance
14
10.5

Date
Letter No.
Pace
Brief Detail
FUEL SYSTEM
GROUP
10
PAGE
PART 10-1-
General Fuel System Service
10-2
PART 10-2-
Stromberg BV-2 Carburettor
10-11
PART 10-3-
Stromberg WW Series Carburettor
10-20
PART 10-4-
Ford Motorcraft Model 2100 Carburettor
10-31
PART 10-5-
Motorcraft Model 4300 Carburettor
10-45
PART 10-6-
Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter
10-61
PART 10-7-
Air Cleaner
10-64
PART 10-8-
Fuel Tank and Lines
10-67
PART 10-9-
Specifications
10-71
10-2
PART
101
GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
Page
......10-2
1 D~agnos~s and Testing ...... ...... ...... ...... ......
Diagnosis ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......
......10-2
Fuel Tank and Lines Diagnosis Guide ...... ......10-3
Carburettor Diagnosis Guide ..............................10-3
Tests ................., ..................................................... .10-5
Fuel Pump Tests ........................ ............................. .10-5
Carburettor Tests ........................ ...... ..................10-6
This part covers general fuel system diagnosis, tests, adjustment and
repair procedures. In addition, cleaning and inspection procedures are
covered.
For fuel system component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, repair procedures, adjustments and specifications, refer to the
pertinent part of this group.
The carburettor identification is
stamped on the carburettor upper
body or float bowl for Stromberg
Section
Page
............ 10-7
Throttle Linkage Adjustments
........................10-7
Accelerator Pedal Idle Height Adjustment ...... 10-7
Throttle Linkage Repair ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......1 0- 7
3 Cleaning and Inspection .............................. ............ 10-13
Carburettors ............................................................10-13
Fuel Pump .................. ........................ ................. .I0-13
Air Cleaner ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......1 0-13
carburettors and on a tag attached to

the upper body on Motorcraft carburettors. To procure replacement
parts, it is necessary to know the
part number prefix and suffix and,
in some instances, the design change
code
Catalogue for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a carburettor or a component part for a
carburettor.
DIAGNOSIS
FUEL TANK, LINES AND
FILTER
Water and dirt that accumulate in
the fuel tank can cause a restricted
fuel line or filter and malfunction of
fuel pump, or carburettor. Condensation, which is the greatest source
of water entering the fuel tank, is
formed by moisture in the air when
it strikes the cold interior walls of
the fuel tank.
If the accumulation of sediment

in the filter is excessive, the fuel
tank should be removed and flushed,
and the line from the fuel pump to
the tank should be blown out.
Leakage in the fuel inlet line can
cause low vacuum, and volume conditions, and loss of fuel.
A restricted fuel tank vent can
cause low fuel pump pressure and
volume and may, in some instances,
result in collapsed inlet hoses or a
collapsed fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP
Incorrect fuel pump pressure and
low volume (ftow rate) are the two
most likely fuel pump troubles that
will affect engine performance. Low
pressure will cause a lean mixture
and fuel starvation at high speeds
and excessive pressure will cause
high fuel consumption and carburettor flooding. Low volume will cause
fuel starvation at high speeds.
PART 10-1- GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE
10-3
FUEL PUMP, TANK AND LINES DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
LOW FUEL PUMP

PRESSURE OR VOLUME
Diaphragm stretched or leaking.

Fuel pump diaphragm spring is
weak.
Rocker arm or eccentric worn or
undersize.
Excessive clearance between rocker arm and fuel pump link.
Fittings loose or cracked.
Fuel filter clogged (low volume).

Fuel line cracked or broken.
Fuel pump valves improperly
seating.
Dirt in fuel tank and/ or lines.
Fuel tank vent restricted.
Diaphragm ruptured.
Main body retaining screws loose.
HIGH FUEL PUMP

PRESSURE OR VOLUME
Diaphragm spring too strong or

improper spring.
Diaphragm surface too tight
(over-tensioned).
Pump link has no free play (frozen).

Diaphragm vent opening plugged
or omitted.
LOW FUEL PUMP

VACUUM
Diaphragm stretched or leaking.

Fuel pump springs weak.
Fuel pump valves improperly seatin g.
Diaphragm ruptured.
Rocker arm or eccentric worn.

Excessive clearance between rocker arm and fuel pump link.
Main body retaining screws loose.
LOW FUEL PUMP

VOLUME WITH NORMAL
PRESSURE
Fuel filter clogged.

Fuel pump to carburettor inlet line
obstructed, crimped or leaks.
Restriction in fuel supply line to

fuel pump.
Threads on fittings stripped.

Body cracked.
FUEL PUMP LEAKS FUEL
Diaphragm defective.
Fittings loose.
FUEL PUMP LEAKS OIL
Fuel pump retaining bolts loose.

Mounting gasket defective.
Diaphragm pull rod oil seal ruplured or improperly installed.
Rocker arm or eccentric worn.

Mounting bolts loose.
Rocker arm springs weak or
broken.
Rocker arm bumper pad defective.
FUEL PUMP NOISI
FUEL TANK AND/OR

INLET LIN! HOSIS
COLLAPSED
ments and improper fuel level are

the major sources of carburettor
Dirt accumulation in the fuel and

air passages, improper idle adjust-
troubles.
CARIURmOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDI
FLOODING OR UAKING
CARBURETOR
HARD STARnNG
Cracked carburettor body.

Defective main body and for fuel
bowl gasket.
High fuel level or ftoat setting.
Fuel inlet needle not seating properly or worn needle and/ or seat.
Improper starting procedure causing a flooded engine.

Improper carburettor fuel level.
Improper idle adjustments.
Sticking or incorrectly seating fuel
inlet needle.
Incorrect fuel pump pressure.
Ruptured
phragm.
Excessive
Defective
Ruptured
accelerating pump diafuel pump pressure.

power valve gasket,
power valve diaphragm.
Improper carburettor gasket and /

or spacer combination.
Incorrect setting of choke thermostatic spring housing.
Choke linkage or plate binding.
Binding qr broken manual choke
linkage.
Restrictions or air leaks in the
choke vacuum or hot air passages.
Dirty air cleaner element.
1()..4
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
CARIUREnOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDE-continued
STAUING
ENGINE HOT OR COLD

Incorrect idle fuel mixture.
Engine idle speed too slow (fast
or cold idle adjustments).
Dirt, water or ice in fuel filter.
Positive crankcase ventilation system malfunctioning.
Fuel lines restricted or leaking air.
Leaking intake manifold or carburettor gaskets
Carburenor icing (cold, wet or
humid weather).
Incorrect throttle linkage adjust-
ROUGH IDU
Positive crankcase ventilation system malfunctioning or restricted.
Idle air bleeds restricted.
Idle air or fuel passages restricted.
Idle discharge holes restricted.
Idle discharge holes not in proper
relation to throttle plate(s).
Excessive dirt in air cleaner.
High or low fuel level or float setting.
Fuel inlet needle not seating properly, or worn needle or seat.
Power valve leaking.
Restricted air bleeds.
ment to carburettor.
Clogged air bleeds or idle passages.
Defective fuel pump.
ENGINE HOT ONLY

Coolant control thermostat defective.
Excessive looseness of throttle
shaft in bore(s) of throttle body.
Incorrect idle mixture adjustment.

Idle adjusting needle(s) grooved,
worn, or otherwise damaged.
Plugged idle fuel channel restrictor.
Worn or damaged main metering
jet.
Accelerating pump discharge ball
check and/ or weight not seating
properly.
Fuel pump pressure too low, or
excessive.
Restriction in main fuel passage.
POOR ACCELERATION
Poor acceleration complaints fall

under one of three headings: the engine is sluggish on acceleration, the
engine stalls when accelerated, or
the engine hesitates or develops a flat
spot when accelerated. Poor acceleration is caused by either an excessively lean or rich mixture on acceleration and/ or defects or improper adjustments in the ignition system.
A LEAN MIXTURE ON
ACCELERATION CAN IE
CAUSED IY:
Low fuel pump pressure.
Sticking fuel inlet needle.
Low fuel le~l or float setting.
Restriction in main fuel passage.
Air leak between the carburettor
and the manifold caused by loose
mounting bolts or defective gasket.
Air leak at the throttle shaft
caused by a worn throttle shaft.
Accelerating pump diaphragm defective.
Incorrect
accelerating
pump
stroke adjUstment.
Accelerating pump fuel inlet valve

(Elastomer valve or ball checkMotorcraft 2-V/4V carburettors) not
seating on acceleration.
Restriction in the accelerating
pump discharge passage.
Accelerating pump discharge Elastomer valve (Motorcraft 2-V/4-V carburettors) ball check or weight not
coming fully off its seat, or failing to
seat properly on the reverse stroke of
the pump diaphragm.
Air leak at the accelerating pump
cover caused by a defective gasket
or warped pump cover.
A RICH MIXTURE ON
ACCELERATION CAN IE
CAUSED IY:
Excessive fuel pump pressure.
Incorrect accelerating pump stroke

adjustment.
Power valve leakage.

CARIURETTOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDI (Continued)
High fuel level or float setting.
Fuel inlet needle not seating properly or worn needle and/ or seat.
Malfunctioning automatic choke.
Excessively dirty air cleaner.
INCONSISTENT ENGINE
IDLE SPEED
Fast idle screw contacting low

step of cam at curb idle.
Sticking carburettor throttle shaft.

Excessive looseness of throttle
shaft in bores of throttle body.
Incorrectly
installed
throttle
plates.
10-5
Worn or damaged main metering

jet.
Accelerating pump Elastomer
valve (Motorcraft 2-V/4-V carburettors). Ball check and/or weight not
seating properly.
Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment to carburettor.
Binding or sticking throttle linkage or accelerator pedal.
Idle compensator malfunctioning
(if so equipped).
Positive crankcase ventilation system restricted.
Sticking fuel inlet needle.
Defective power valve or gasket.
Defective coolant thermostat.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
SLOW WARM-UP I ON
TOO OnEN
Thermostatic choke setting too

rich.
Choke linkage sticking or binding.
Incorrect choke linkage adjustment.
Choke phite misaligned or binding
in air .horn.
Restriction or air leak in the

choke vacuum or hot air passage.
Choke heat inlet tube restricted.
Choke clean air tube restricted.
SEVERE TRANSMISSION
ENGAGEMENT AnER
COLD ENGINE START
Carburettor fast idle speed setting

too high.
Throttle operating on starting step
(highest step) of the fast idle cam.

Binding or sticking throttle linkage .
SURGING (CRUISING
SPEEDS TO TOP SPEEDS)
Clogged main jet

Improper size main jet
Low fuel level or float setting.
Low fuel pump pressure or volume.
Clogged fuel filter or carburettor
filter screen.
Distributor
clogged.
REDUCED TOP SPEED
Float setting too high or too low.

Fuel pump pressure or volume too
high or too low.
Improper size or obstructed main
jet .
Power valve spring weak, or
power valve restricted.
vacuum
passage
Restriction in main fuel passages.

Excessive dirt in air cleaner.
Throttle plate(s) not fully open.
Faulty choke operation.
Improper throttle linkage adjustment.
TESTS
FUEL PUMP TESTS
Two tests: fuel pump static pressure and fuel volume are necessary
to determine that the fuel pump is in
satisfactory condition.
If both the fuel pump volume and
pressure are within specifications
(pagel076) and the pump and lines
are in satisfactory condition, a vacuum test is not required.
If the pump volume is low, but
the pressure is within specifications,
a fuel pump capacity test must be
made with the in-line filter, if fitted,
removed. If the pump volume meets

specifications with the filter removed,
replace the filter. If the pump volume is still below specifications,
repeat the capacity test, using an
auxiliary fuel supply. If the pump
volume still does not meet specifications, replace the pump. If the pump
does meet specifications, there is a
restriction in the fuel supply from
the tank or the tank is not venting
propedy.
The tests are performed with the
fuel pump installed on the engine
and the engine temperature stabi-
lized at the normal operating temp_erature. Make certain the replaceable fuel filter is not restricted or clogged. When in doubt,
install a new fuel filter prior to performing the tests. A clogged or
restricted filter is often the cause of
fuel system malfunction.
Pressure Test
1. Remove the carburettor air
cleaner assembly (page 1067 ). Disconnect the fuel inlet hose at the fuel
filter. Unscrew the filter from the
carburettor. Connect the fuel hose to
the filter and tighten the retaining
10-6
clamp. Use care to prevent combustion due to fuel spillage.
2. Connect a pressure gauge, restrictor and flexible hose (Fig. 1)
between the carburettor inlet port
and the fuel filter connections.
3. Position the flexible hose restrictor so that the fuel can be expelled into a suitable container (Fig.
I) for the capacity (volume) test.
4. Operate the engine at 500 rpm.
Vent the system into the container
by opening the hose restrictor
momentarily before taking a pressure
reading.
Mter the fuel pump pressure has
stabilized, it should be to specification (page 1()-176).
Capacity (Volume) Test
Perform this test only when the
fuel pump pressure is within specifications (page 10-'76 ).
2. Open the hose restrictor and
expel the fuel into the container
(Fig. 1), while observing the time
required to expel one pint; then close
the restrictor. One pint of fuel
should be expelled within the specified time limit (page 10-76 ).
3. Remove the test equipment,
and connect the fuel inlet line and
fuel filter assembly to the carburettor.
CARBURETTOR TESTS
Accelerating Pump Discharge
Test
1.
Remove the air cleaner (page l 0-6 7 ).
2. Open the primary throttle

plates and observe the fuel flow
from the accelerating pump discharge nozzles. If the system is operating correctly, a quick steady
stream of fuel will flow from the discharge nozzles.
Power By-Pass Jet Test
Stromberg BV-2:
A faulty power by-pass jet in this
carburettor will not adversely :1-Hcct
the engine idle. If the po.-:cr by-pass
jet is leaking, it will resu't in rich
part throttle operation and hi~h fuel
comumption. If t!-:.e po.ver by-pass
jet is not screwed down on 1ts seat
or is fitted with a faulty sealing gasket, richness will occur in both part
throttle and power application of the
carburet tor.
The power by-pass jet or sealing
gasket must be replaced if found
defective.
Power Valve Test
A power valve must not be re-

Fuel Outlet Hose
FIG. 1 -Typical
Fuel Pump Pressure and
Capacity Tests
placed unless It is leaking sumclently
cause an unadjustable rough
engine Idle condition. Fuel accumulation in the power valve cover does
not necessarily indicate a defective
power valve. Fuel vapours will be
drawn into the vacuum side of the
power valve and condense during
periods of deceleration. Leakage in
the power valve area can be caused
by an improperly tightened cover or
defective gaskets. Any defect in the
gasket sealing qualities must be corrected before the power valve is replaced.
Power valve leakage that causes
an unadjustable rough engine idle
condition can be diagnosed, in most
instances, by the fact that the idle
mixture needle<s> must be nearly, or
completely seated in order to obtain
a relatively smooth engine idle condition. If power valve leakage is suspected, the following test procedure
must be performed.
to
1. Remove the carburettor from the

Intake manifold. Invert the carburettor.
2. Remove the glass bowl from the
fixture
(Fig. 2).
Fill the bowl half-
full of- water. Install the bowl on

the fixture.
3. Connect a line from a vacuum

pump to the fitting on top of the
fixture. Insert one end of the wand
Into the tube and attach the other
end of the tube to the fitting on the
side of the fixture. Slip a rubber
gasket over the small OD end or
the wand. Hold th1a end against the
power valve vacuum pick-up port
(Fig. 2).
c. Look for bubble formations In

the water In the bowl. A continuous
stream of bubbles Indicates leakaee
through the power valve dlaphrqm
or gasket, or the cover or gasket.
If
power
leakage
valve,
is encountered, the
power valve gasket,
11228-1
FIG. 2- Ford Carburettor

Power Valve Test -Typicl

cover, and cover gasket should be
replaced one at a time with a new
part and the test repeated unW the
source of leakage has been found. If
the source of leakage cannot be
EJ
found, the gasket seats are darnapd

and the defective parts should be
replaced.
A few bubbles may be noticed Immediately upon attaching the vacu-
10-7
um line. The bubbllnr should stop

within appro:.Umately 111 seconds or
after the air has been removed from
the system. If no bubbles are seen,
the power valve, gaskets and cover
are sealing properly.
All XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane engines are

equipped with carburettors that feature
limiter caps fitted to the idle mixture
adjustment screws. The purpose of the
limiter caps is to limit the maximum idle
fuel/air mixture richness and so control
the quality of gases discharged from the
exhaust system.
Note: Carbon Monoxide emission level at
idle speed not to exceed 4.5%.
Two types of limiter cap are used on
current production carburettors.
1. Stromberg lV and 2V carburettors:
a free turning cap is fitted over the head of
the idle mixture adjusting screw/s preventing any alteration to the factory setting.
2. Motorcraft 2V and 4V carburettors:
fixed caps are fitted to the idle mixture
screws and adjustment is restricted to the
range provided for by tabs on the limiter
caps and stops incorporated in the carburettor body.
Under no circumstances should the idle
adjusting limiters or the limiter stops be
mutilated or deformed to render the limiters inoperative.
A satisfactory idle should be obtainable
within the range of the idle adjusting
limiters providing all other engine systems
are operating within specifications.
For idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures refer to the specific carburettor
section.
THROTTLE LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT
The engine idle speed and fuel
mixture must be adjusted to specification
prior to performing throttle linkage adjustments. For these adjustments, refer
to the applicable carburettor section.
Views of the throttle (accelerator)
linkage for the various car models are
shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5 & ~
ACCELERATOR PEDAL IDLE
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Six- Cylinder
Refer to Figs. 3 & 4 for a view of the
accelerator linkage and the accelerator
pedal specified idle height.
l. Warm up the engine and adjust
the
idle speed to specification.
Refer to the applicable carburettor section for procedure and to Part 10-9
for specifications.
2. Remove the clip holding the

trunnion on the adjustable rod in engagement with the accelerator shaft.
3. Adjust the trunnion on the rod to

give the specified idle height at the accelerator pedal.
4. Replace the clip holding the
trunnion in engagement with the accelerator shaft.
5. If the vehicle is fitted with an
automatic transmission adjust the
kickdown cable. Refer to Group 7 for
the procedure.
6. Lubricate all pivot points with
engine oil.
ACCELERATOR PEDAL IDLE

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
V-8 Engines
Refer to Figs. 5 and 6 for a view of
the accelerator linkage and the accelerator pedal specified idle height.
l. Adjust the idle (hot engine)
speed to specification. Refer to the
applicable carburettor section for procedure and to Part l Q. 9 for specifications.
2. With the engine stopped make

sure the carburettor choke plate is
fully opened.
3. Detach the adjustable rod assembly
from the bellcrank.
4. Adjust trunnion connecting the rod
to the accelerator shaft to give the specified pedal height.
5. Adjust the kickdown cable. Refer
to Group 7 for procedure.
6. Lubricate the pivot points at
both ends of the rods and on
the bellcrank using engine oil.
CARBURETTOR SPACER AND/OR

GASKETS REPLACEMENT
It is necessary to remove the carburetor from the car to replace a
carburettor spacer and/or gaskets
Refer to the Carburettor Removal
and Installation procedure steps in
this group that pertain to the type
of carburettor installed on the car.
THROTTLE LINKAGE REPAIR

ACCELERATOR PEDAL
REPLACEMENT
Refer to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6 for views of
the accelerator pedal for the applicable
car model.
1. Remove the retaining screw
securing the pedal to the shaft. Remove
the accelerator pedal and spring.
2. Lubricate the accelerator pedal

hinge points with the specified lubri-cant <Group 19) and position the accelerator pedal and spring assembly
on the accelerator shaft. Apply 2 dots of
locking compound (e.g. Loctite) to the
screw thread and install the retaining
screw. Make sure the spring is properly
seated on the pedal and the accelerator
shaft. Install the retaining nut.
ACCELERATOR SHAFT
ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
200/250 CID with Borg Warner transmissions.

Refer to Figs. 3 & 4 for a view of the
accelerator linkage.
1. Remove the accelerator pedal
assembly. Refer to previous operation.
z. Disconnect the accelerator retracting spring.
3. Remove the clip holding theadjustable rod in engagement with the

accelerator shaft.
t. Undo the four screws holding

the two accelerator shaft support.
brackets to the bulkhead and removethe accelerator shaft.
5. Position the new accelerator
shaft and replace and tighten thefour screws holding the two support
brackets.
Ensure that the rubber
sealing pad is correctlY seated against
the bulkhead.
6. Replace the accelerator pedal
assembly. Refer to Accelerator Pedal
Replacement in this section for the
proper procedures.
'1. Connect the clip holding the

adjustable rod in engagement with the
accelerator shaft.
10-8
8. Connect the accelerator retracting spring.
9. Lubricate the pivot points on
the acceelrator shaft and pedal with
engine oil.
10. Warm up the engine and adjust the accelerator pedal idle height
Refer to Accelerator Pedal Idle
Height Adjustment, Fig. 3 for the proper
procedures.
ACCELERATOR SHAFT TO
CARBURETTOR BELLCRANK
ASSEMBLY ROD REPLACEMENT
(All engines)
Refer to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6 for a view of the
accelerator linkage.
1. DiscomJect the accelerator retracting spring.

2. Remove the clips at both ends
of the rod and remove the rod.
3. Install the new rod and replace

the clips.
t. Lubricate the pivot points with

engine oil and adjust the accelerator
pedal idle height. Refer to accelerator
pedal idle height adjUstment in this
section for the proper procedures.
ACCELERATOR SHAFT TO
PEDAL LEVER REPLACEMENT
All except 6 cylinder witn Borg Warner
transmissions
Refer to Figs. 4, 5, 6 for views of the

accelerator linkage components.
1. Remove the llCCelerator pedal

assembly. Refer to Accelerator Pedal
Replacement, in this section, for thP
proper procedures.
Disconnect the accelerator retracting spring.
2.
3. Remove lever retaining nut and

washer. The accelerator shift to pedal
lever may now be removed.
t. Install the new lever and replace the retaining nut and washer.
5. Reconnect the accelerator retracting spring and replace the pedal
assembly.
8. Check the accelerator pedal for
the specified idle height and adjust
lf necessary. Refer to Throttle Llnkap adjustment In this section for
the proper procedure.
7. Lubricate the accelerator pedal
hinge with the specified lubricar.t
<Group 19>.
ACCELERATOR SHAFT
ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
All except 6 cylinder with Borg Warner
transmissions.
Refer to Figs. 4, 5 & 6 for views of the
accelerator linkage components.
1. R!!move the accelerator shaft

to pedal lever. Refer to the appropriate part of this section for the proper
procedures.
2. Disconnect the rod assemblies

connecting the accelerator shift to
the carburettor bellcrank and where necessary the auto trans kick down cable.
4. Remove the two screws on the
bracket supportir.g the carburettor
end of the accelerator shaft.
The
bracket supporting the pedal end of
the shaft need not be removed.
5. The accelerator shaft may now
be removed complete with seal and
mounting bracket.
6. To replace the shaft, first fit
the seal and then insert the shaft
through the bulkhead and the pedal
and mounting bracket.
7. Bolt the mounting bracket on
the carburettor end of the shaft to
the bulkhead.
a. Reconnect the rod assemblies
connecting the shaft to the carburettor bellcrank and refit the transmission
cable where applicable.
9. Replace the accelerator shaft to
pedal lever and check the pedal for
the specified idle height and adjust
If necessary. Refer to Throttle Linkage. Adjustment In this section for
the proper procedure.
10. Lubricate both mounting bracket pivots, the rod assembly pivots
and the accelerator pedal hinge using
engine oil.
IDLE PEDAl HEIGHT

WITH CARBURETTOR CHOKE
FUllY OPENED
ADJUST ROD ASSY . (97401

TO OBTAIN FULL THROTTLE
WHEN SHAFT ASSY . (97251
TOUCHES THE FLOOR COVERING
~ ~~
VJf:W
" W"
35 -65
~OTS
VIEW
lB .
OF
lOCKING - COMPOUND
CENTRAllY lOCATED
" X"
.,,..
IN .
~
PEDAl
HEIGHT
SETTING
REF.
G)
~sLB .
m
z
m
PANEL
VIEW
INSTRUMENT
r-
REF .
.,
c
"Y "
HOLE
REF.
-w
~VIEW
" X"
--1
Cj)
A"'
J -~~
15 -25
m
lr-
~
m
LU~ICATE
PER
PiVOTS
MARKED e
CHART
CHASSIS LUB~ IC ATION SEC. 3 No . 457 -4

WITH THE ~ :~AFT A SSY . 9919 SET
AT IDLE , I .DJUST TPIINION " A "
SO
THAT THE
l oHO HOLE " B'
CRIMPED STOP ON
KICK DOWN INNER (' '.C~ E JUST TOUCHES
THE OUTER CABLE WITHOUT SLACK .
THEN
I NSTALL
CLIP
AU i OMATIC
KID CABLE
TRANSMISSION
ADJUSTMENT
(/)
m;:tO
<
()
9825
Fig.,3
200 & 250 1V & 250 2V Manual
6 cylinder B. Warner Trans.
Cj)
PANEL -DASH
-9
REF
ADJUST ROD TO OBTAIN

FULL THROTTLE WHEN
LEVER ASSY . (9725/99734)
TOUCHES THE FLOOR
COVERING .
,,U
~"'~
VIEW
35-65
~TS
LB.
r<f:l
OF
LOCKING COMPOUND
CENTRALLY LOCATED
REF .
...
-y-
MANUAL
PEDAL
IN .
TRANS.
ONLY
VIEW
"Y ' '
HEIGHT SETTING
ADJUSTMENT
CONTROL
,.,
(i)
c.,
LEVER POSITION WITH

PEDAl. AT W.O .T.
POSITION
?,
c
r-
LEVER
AUTOMATIC
"
TRANSMISSION
" W"
WITH THE LINKAGE COMPLETELY

ASSEMBLED . THIS DISTANCE IS
TO BE SUCH THAT THE
TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT LEVER
ROTATES COUNTER CLOCKWISE
STOP WITH THE PEDAL
DE.PRESSED TO W .O .T.
TRANS DOWNSHIFT LEVER
ROTATED AND HELD AGAINST
INTERNAL KICKDOWN STOP
BY PUllii\IG CABLE
ADJUSTING END.
Fig. 4
250 2V C4 & Man., Typical250 1V-C4
~
m
ONLY
~
VIEW
"C'
LEVER
"C .
BLOCK ACCELERATOR PEDAL

IN W .O .T. POSITION.
" C"
ROTATE LEVER "C' COUNTER

CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTERNAL
STOP.
HOLD LEVER " C" ON STOP AND
ADJUST CABLE TO FIT ACCELERATOR
SHAFT LEVER .
TURN TRUNNION
ONE ADDITIONAL TURN CLOCKWISE
AND SECURE TO LEVER .
RELEASE
ACCELERATOR
PEDAL.
-~
DOTS OF
LOCKING COMPOUND
CENTRALLY LOCATED
REF.
ADJUST ROD TO OBTAIN

FUll THROTTLE WHEN
LEVER ASSY . TOUCHES THE
FLOOR COVERING.
PEDAL
HEIGHT
SETTING
VIEW
" Z' "
VIEW
" Y"
VIEW
PANEL
DASH
.,
"X"
~
:tal
-1
(REF.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONTROL
ADJUSTMF"'T
G)
PANEl -DASH
REF.
VIEW
-n
r-
Ra----.
l'(lp-11 ~
VIEW
~~
" Z"
LEVER
VIEW
"C"
" V"
VIEW
~
VIEW
" U"
" V "/
VIEW
WITH THE LINKAGE COMPLETELY

ASSEMBLED . THIS DISTANCE IS
TO BE SUCH THAT THE
TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT LEVER
ROTATES COUNTER CLOCKWISE
STOP WITH THE PEDAL
DEPRESSED TO W .O .T.
~m
" W"
I'
TRANS DOWNSHIFT LEVER

ROTATED AND HELD AGAINST
INTERNAL KICKDOWN STOP
BY PULLING CABLE
ADJUSTING END.
Fig. 5
VS-302 & 351 2V C4
)>
r-
c
m
r1:1
OIL PIVOT MARKED x
GREASE PIVOTS MARKE~
VIEW
(/)
BLOCK ACCELERATOR PEDAL

IN W .O .T. POSITION .
"C
ROTATE LEVER "' C'" COUNTER

CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTERNAL
STOP.
<
()
m
HOLD LEVER " C' " ON STOP M'r:

ADJUST CABLE TO FIT ACCELERATv~
SHAFT LEVER .
TURN TRUNNION
ONE ADDITIONAL TURN CLOCKWISE
AND SECURE TO LEVER .
RELEASE
ACCELERATOR
PEDAL
--
-C?
N
--- ~
35 -65
LB .
IN .
1;-
VIEW
DOTS OF
LOCKING COMPOUND
CENTRALLY LOCATED
REF .
ADJUST ROD "19A702 TO OBTAIN

FUll THROTTLE WHEN
LEVER ASSY TOUCHES THE
FLOOR COVfRING .
PE DAL
HEIGHT
SETTING
VIEW
z--
VIEW
C:::D
PANEL
DASH
(REF .!
G\
~
.,
c:
PANEL-DASH
VIEW
VIEW
rt:J
OIL
PIVOT
SPEASE
MA~KED
PIVOTS
AUTOMATIC
r-
COLOUR
. z-VIEW
BLUE
351 -4V
ORANGE
KICK
CODE
351 -2V
DOWN
~
CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
MARKED
18
8
-.,f
REF .
TRAN ~ MISSION
Fig. 6
V8 3514V FMX
cer
ONLY
~
VIEW
WITH TRANS ROD 7A186

INSTALLED , HOLD CARBURETTOR
THROTTLE LEVER IN W .O .T.
POSITION-AGAINST STOP.
C5
VIEW
2.
HOLD TRANSMISSION IN FUll

KICK DOWN POSITION AGAINST
INTERNAL STOP
3.
TURN ADJUSTMENT SCREW ON

CARBURETTOR KICK-DOWN LEVER
TO WITHIN 04o TO 080 ..
GAP OF CONTACT ING PICK -UP
SURFACE OF Cf,RB . THROTTLE LEVER .
4.
RELEASE CARS . ANO

FREE POSITIONS
INSTAll ACCELERATOR 9737 AND

KICK -DOWN 78146 RETRACTING
SPR INGS.
w . 8
TRANS .
TO
EJ
CADURmORS
Dirt, gum, water or carbon contamination in the carburettor or the
exterior moving parts of the carburettor are often responsible for unsatisfactory performance. For this reason
emcient carburetion depends upon
careful cleaning and inspection.
The cleaning and inspection of
only those parts not included in the
carburetor overhaul repair kit are
covered here. All gaskets and parts
included in the repair kit should be
installed when the carburettor is assembled and the old gaskets and
parts should be discarded.
Wash all the carburettor parts except
the accelerating pump diaphragm, and
the power valve in clean commercial
carburettor cleanmg solvent. If a
commercial solvent is not available,
lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol
may be used.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to remove all traces of the cleaning solvent, then dry them with compressed
air. Wipe all parts that cannot be
immersed in solvent with a clean,
soft, dry cloth. Be sure all dirt, gum,
carbon and other foreign matter are
removed from all parts.
Force compressed air tnrough all
passages of the carburetor. Do not
use a wire brush to dean any parts
or a drUI or wire to dean out any
openin1s or passa1es in the carburetor. A drill or wire may enlarge
the hole or passage, changing the
calibration of the carburettor.
Check the choke shaft for grooves,
wear and excessive looseness or
binding. Inspect the choke plate for
nicked edges and for ease of operation and free it if necessary. Make
sure all carbon and foreign material
has been removed from the automatic choke housing and the piston.
Check the operation of the automatic choke piston in the choke
housing to make certain it has free
movement.
Check the throttle shaft(s) in the
bore(s) for exceBBive loosenBBB or binding
and check the throttle plates for burrs
which prevent proper closure.
On Stromberg carburettors, check the
metallic float for leaks by holding
it under . water that has been heated

to just below the boiling point. Bubbles
will appear if there is a leak. If a float
leaks, replace it. Replace the float if the
arm needle contact surface is grooved.
If the float is serviceable, polish the
needle contact surface with crocus cloth
or steel wool. Replace the float shaft
if it is worn.
Replace all screws and nuts that
have stripped threads. Replace all
distorted or broken springs.
Inspect all gasket mating surfaces
for nicks and burrs. Repair or replace
any parts that have a damaged gasket surface.
On 2-V and 4-V oarburettors, inspect
the idle tubes in each nozzle bar 8886m
bly. If they are plugged, bent or broken,
replace the booster venturi and nozzle
bar 8886mbly.
FUEL PUMP
On all fuel pumps, except Carter
permanently sealed
types,
clean
the fuel pump body, valve housing
and cover. Blow out all body, housing and cover passages. Inspect the
pump body, valve housing, cover,
rocker arm, spring and pin for
cracks or damage and replace them
if necessary. If the fuel valYes are
not serviceable and replacement is
necessary, replace the valve housing
and valves as an assembly, Inspect
the mounting flange for distortion.
Remove the pump body or lap the

distorted flange if necessary.
On all Carter permanently sealed
fuel pumps, clean the fuel pump with
a cloth. Inspect the fuel pumps for
c:racka or damage. Inspect the moun~
1ng ftange for cllatortlon. Lap the
dlatorted flange, if nec:essary. Inspect.
the rocker arm for wear, cracks or
damage. The rocker arm spriD(, pin
and &be rocker arm are &be oDiy compoDeD&e on &be perm&Den&ly sealed
fael pampa &bat are replaeeable. U
any other fuel pump components are
damaged beyond repair, replace the
fuel pump.
AIR CLEANER
MAINTENANCE
Refer to Group 19 for the recommended air cleaner assembly maintenance mUeage interval.
10-13
REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
Refer to page 10-67, Section 2 for
the air cleaner 8886mbly removal and

installation procedures.
FILTER ELEMENT
The eellulose fibre filter elemen~
must never be cleaned with a solvent
or cleanJnr solution. Also, oU must
not be added to the surfac:es of tha
filter element or air cleaner body.
There are two alternate procedures.
that can be used to clean the air
filter element. One method is performed with the use of compressed
air.
The other is perfomed by tapping
the element on a smooth horizontal
surface.
Compressed Air Method

Direct a stream of compressed air
through the element in the direction
opposite that of the intake air flow,
that is from the inside outward. Extreme c:are must be exercised to prevent rupture of the element materiaL
Tappin, Method
Hold the element in the vertical
position and tap it lightly against a
smooth, horizontal surface to shake
the dust and dirt out. Do not deform
the element or clama&'e &be psket
sarfaees by tapplnl too hard. Rotate
the ftlter after each tap until the
entire outer surface has been cleaned.
lnspec:tlon
Hold the filter in front of a backup light and carefully inspect it for
any splits or cracks. If the filter is
split or cracked, replace it.
BODY AND COVER
Clean the air cleaner body and

the cover with a solvent or com-
pressed air.
Wipe the air cleaner
dry if a solvent is used. Inspect the
air cleaner body and cover for distortion or damage at the gasket mating surfaces. Replace the cover or
body if they are damaged beyond
repair.
10-14
PART
102
STROMBERG CARBURETTOR BV2200,250 IV 6 CYLINDER ENGINES
Section
1. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION ... ... ... ...
Description ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. . ...
Operation
............... ..... .
2. INVEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REP AIRS
Carburettor Adjustments ... . ..
Initial Idle Speed Adjustment .. .
Idle Limiter Cap Replacement .. .
Carburettor Repairs ... ... ... ...
Page
10-14
10-14
10-14
10-17
10-17
10-17
10-18
10-19
Section
3. REMOVAL, MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS AND
INSTALLATION
Removal ... ... ... ......
Disassembly .. . .. . ... ...
Assembly ...... ...... ...
Page
10-20
10-20
10-20
10-21
10-21
DESCRIPTION
The Carburettor
(Figs.
1 and
2)
consists of three main assemblies, the

<uppen Air Horn , the <centre1 Main
Body and the <lower 1 Throttle Body.
The upper air horn assembly contains the power piston assembly, the
idle vent vahe and choke valve.
The centre main body contains the
major metering components of the
carburettor : the main and idle fuel
systems the power by-pass system.
the accelerating pump assembly, the
float chamber and the fuel inlet system.
The lower throttle body contains the

idle-mixture-adjusting screw and the
throttle valve.
OPERATION
The engine speed is controlled by
the proportion of fuel and air delivered to the cylinders for all engine
operating conditions.
Air is drawn into the carburettor
air horn by manifold vacuum. As the
air passes through the carburettor on

its way to enter the cylinders, a reduced pressure is created at the fuel
discharge outlets.
The fuel bowl is vented to atmosphere at closed throttle and to carburettor air inlet pressure through a
vent tube in the upper air horn at
all other throttle positions. The high
air pressure exerted on the fuel in
the chamber forces fuel to travel up
through the fuel discharge channels
and out into the air stream passing
through the carburetor. The fuel and
air are mixed at this point and distributed to the engine cylinders for
combustion.
FUEL INLET SYSTEM
The fuel inlet system (Fig. 3) of

the carburettor maintains a predetermined fuel level in the fuel bowl.
The fuel level in the chamber is
extremely important to carburettor
calibration. If the level of the fuel
in the chamber is below the specified
setting, a lean fuel air mixture will
result. A rich fuel air mixture
occur from a higher than specified
fuel level. The entire calibration of
the carburettor is disturbed if the fuel
level is not set as specified.
will
Fuel enters the chamber through

the fuel-inlet needle-valve-and-seat
assembly. The amount of fuel entering is regulated by the distance the
needle valve is moved off the seat
and by fuel pump pressure. Correct
fuel pump pressure is required to
maintain the carburettor fuel level
FIG. 1-3/4 Left Rear View
The fuel level is maintained at a

pre-determined level by the float and
lever assembly which controls the
movement of the needle valve. The
PART 10-2- STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR
10-15
venturi causes a pressure drop in the

venturi great enough to bring the
main metering system into operation
as the idle fuel metering system
tapers o.ff.
MAIN FUEL METERING SYSTEM
FIG. 2-Carburettor f Rear View

needle valve, contacting the tab of
the ftoat and lever assembly, reacts
to any change in height of the ftoat
and the fuel level in the ftoat chamber.
IDLE FUEL SYSTEM
The idle fuel system functions

when the engine is operating at low
R.P.M. It supplies the fuel-air mixture when the air ftow through the
carburettor venturi is insufficient to
operate the main metering system.
The range of the idle system will
extend into the operation of the main
metering system. Fuel ftows from the
main channel, up the idle tube channel and through the calibrated idle
tube assembly. Filtered air from the
carburettor air horn enters the idleair-bleed and mixes with the fuel.
The air bleed also serves as a vent to
prevent syphoning of fuel at high
speeds or when the engine is shut off.
The fuel-air mixture then passes
through the idle down channel and
is transferred to the idle channel in
the throttle body. The fuel-air mixture passes down the idle channel,
past the progression holes, to the idle
. needle valve. The progression holes
act as additional air bleeds at normal
idle. The fuel-air mixture ftows past
the idle needle valve and seat and is
discharged through the idle discharge
nozzle located below the throttle
valve. The amount of mixture to be

discharged is determined by the
position of the idle needle valve in
relation to its seat in the throttle
body.
During off-idle operation, when the
throttle valve is moved past the idle
progression holes, each hole begins
discharging fuel as it is exposed to
the lower air pressure (manifold
vacuum>. Continued opening of the
throttle valve increases engine R.P.M.
and air ftow through the carburettor.
The greater air ftow through the
The main fuel metering system

(Fig. 4 > supplies the fuel required
during the cruise or part-throttle
range. The system begins to function when the air ftow through the
carburettor venturi creates sufficient
vacuum to start fuel flowing in the
main system.
The vacuum at the
tip of the main discha-rge jet will
increase as the air flow increases.
The faster the engine operates, the
more fuel will flow through the
main fuel system.
Fuel entering the main metering
jet, located at the base of the inclined main channel, ftows upwards
to the main discharge jet. Air from
the calibrated high-speed bleed ftows
down the high-speed bleed channel
and enters the main channel. The
air passes through holes spaced along
the body of the main discharge jet,
mixing with the fuel passing up the
main channel. The fuel and air mixture being lighter than solid fuel,
responds faster to changes in venturi pressures. The mixture ftows to
the tip of the main discharge jet
to be discharged into the filtered air
moving past and through the small
venturi.
ACCELERATING PUMP SYSTEM
Smooth acceleration requires a

momentary increase in the supply of
FIG. 3-Fuel Inlet System Typical
10-16
HIGH SPEED
BLEED
preventing entry of air.

POWER FUEL SYSTEM
MAIN
CHANNEL
MAIN
METERING
JET
FUEl ='""
FUEL - AIR~
AIR-
FIG. 4-Main Fuel Metering System-Typical

PUMP
SPRING
PUMP
PISTON
FIG. 5-Accelerating Pump System -Typical

fuel. The air ftow through the carburettor responds almost immediately
to any increase in carburettor throttle
valve opening. The fuel '1\ithin the
metering passages will lag momentarily in its response to the pressure
difference created by this increased
air ftow. This lag in fuel response
will cause a temporary leanness in
the fuel-air mixture that results In
a. hesitation in engine acceleration.
A mechanically operated accelerating
pump system (Fig. 5) supplies added
fuel to provide a richer fuel-air mixture for this brief period of time.
The accelerating pump, located in
the main body, is controlled by levers
connected to the throttle shaft. When
the throttle is opened the pump
spring actuates the piston and forces
fuel from the accelerating pump cylinder into the discharge channel. (The
carburettor as fitted to all models except
the 25 0 CID Manual features a small bleed
back hole in the accelerator pump stem.
The accelerator pump fitted to auto transmission vehicles has a shorter pump stroke
than the one fitted to manual transmission
models). The inlet pump check valve closes
to prevent a reverse flow of fuel. Fuel under
pressure travels through the pump discharge
valve and up to the pump restrictor.
The fuel is sprayed from the pump
rcstrictor into the air stream above the
main venturi.
When the throttle valve is closed
on deceleration, the throttle shaft
levers allow the piston to return to
its upper position drawing fuel
through the inlet pump check valve
while the pump discharge valve closes
When the engine is required to

deliver more power to meet an increased road-load demand or wideopen-throttle operation, the carburettor must deliver a. richer fuel-ail' mixture than supplied during the operation of the main fuel system at
cruise or part throttle operation.
When the engine is running under
a. high power demand, intake manifold vacuum is low. The vacuum below the throttle valve approximates
intake manifold vacuum. The carburettor power by-pass jet <Fig. 6
will open when the manifold vacuum
drops below a predetermined value.
The fuel-air mixture is thus automatically enriched to meet the increased power demands.
Manifold vacuum is transmitted
from an opening below the throttle
valve, through a channel to the upper
air hom and to the top of the vacuum
power piston. (An additional opening into the power piston vacuum
channel is located in the throttle body
bore above the throttle valve. This
opening bleeds down the vacuum applied to the power piston under certain conditions where the throttle is
only partly open. By this means the
power by-pass jet is activated instantaneously and provides smoother and
more economical engine operation.)
At idle and normal engine speeds, the
manifold vacuum is great enough to
hold the power piston up.
The power piston is connect~d to
the power piston rod. The foot of
the rod controls the spring-loaded
power by-pass jet. With the piston
held up by manifold vacuum, the
power by-pass jet is closed.
The power piston spring is located
on the rod. The spring is calibrated
to overcome the vacuum above the
piston when manifold vacuum drops
below a pre-determined level. Upon
demand for more power, the manifold vacuum drops below this level.
The spring tension moves the rod
down and opens the power by-pass
jet by depressing the pin projecting
above the head of the valve. Air
pressure above the ftoat chamber
forces fuel to flow through the power
by-pass jet, adding to fuel in the
main system, enriching the fuel-air
mixture.
As the demand for power decreases
and manifold vacuum increases, the
vacuum above the piston overcomes
the spring tension. The piston and
PART 10-2-STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR
10-17
rod move up and the power Jet closes.

FUEL BOWL VENTING SYSTEM
POWER PISTON
ROD
POWER PISTON
SPRING
FIG. 6-Power Fuel System -Typical
The fuel bowl requires venting <Fig.

7) to provide proper operation for
the va1'ious systems. Fuel vapours
may form in the ftoat chamber when
a hot engine Is stopped, Idling or
operating at very low speeds.
By
venting the ftoat-chamber to atmosphere by means of a vent control
valve, engine performance Is Improved.
At higher engine speeds,
venting to the carburettor air horn
prevents calibration changes due to
normal air cleaner contamination.
The vent valve, located over and
operated by the pump stem, is at
the open position during closed or
low part-throttle operation. In this
position, the valve allows venting to
the atmosphere.
At higher partthrottle or wide-open throttle operation, the valve closes, venting the carburetor internally to p1'essures in the
air horn.
(DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM)
CONTROL SYSTEM
The carburettor has a permanent

push-on type vacuum take-off connection located on the throttle body
casting. Tne manifold vacuum is
transmitted to the distributor
vacuum diaphragm take off connection, through two small holes drilled
in the throttle body above the throttle
plate.
FIG. 7-Fuel Bowl Venting System -Typical
INITIAL IDLE SPEED AND

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTM~NT
All Stromberg carburettors fitted to

XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane engines are equip
ped with limiter caps on the idle mixture
adjusting screws. The limiters control the
maximum idle richness and help prevent unauthorised persons from making
overly rich idle adjustments. Carbon
Monoxide emission at idle must not exceed
4.5%.
The limiter cap fitted to the Stromberg

carburettor is free turning on the head of
the idle mixture adjusting screw, therefore
IDLE
ADJUSTMENT
THE ONLY
ALLOWABLE IN NORMAL SERVICE IS
THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED .
A satisfactory idle should be obtained,
providing all other engine systems are
operating within specifications.
1. Operate the engine until engine

temperatures are stabilized. On a car
with an air eondltloner, operate the
enrlne
settlnr
enrlne
the air
for twenty minutes before

the enrlne Idle speed. The
Idle speed Is adjusted with
conditioner operatlnr.
2. Position the transmission lever

In neutral. Allow the throttle to drop
back to the normal Idle speed position. Attach a tachometer to the engine. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn on the headlamps. It Is

necessary to place the alternator un-
10-18
der a la.d condition In this manner
In order to obtain the specified encine Idle speed durl~ the adjustment
proeedure4. On a ear with a manual shift
transmission, the ~ine Idle speed is
checked and adjusted with the leal'
shift lever in neutral position. On a
ear with an automatic tr&Dsmiaion,
the e~lne Idle speed is checked &D4
adjusted ftnt with the transmission.
~elector lever in the neutral position.
and adjusted with the transmuton
~elector lever in the drive nnre position.

5. Attach an accurate tachometer to
the engine.
6. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture
screw to give the best quality idle available
at 20 R.P.M. above the specified idle
speed.
8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture
adjusting screw in a clockwise direction
until the engme R.P.M . drops to the specified idle speed.
9. Remove the air cleaner.
10. Carefully install the black service
limiter cap on the head of the idle mixture
adjusting screw.
11. Replace the air cleaner and check
the idle speed to ensure that the mixture
screw was not accidently rotated while
fitting the limiter cap.
12. Remove the tachometer from the
engine.
4. Open throttle wide and again

measure from the top of the pump
piston stem to the top face of the
carburettor or main body with gasket
removed.
5. The difference between these
two measurements will be the length
of the pump stroke.
This length
should be within the specified limits
with the mean size of the limits being desirable.
If the measurement is found to be
outside the specified limits, the pump
stroke can be adjusted by bending
the arm <top, horizontal position> of
the pump rod. No more than 1(64"
to 1(32" adjustment should be required. Two bends in the arm will
be necessary to keep the hole in the
arm parellel with the pump stem.
6.
Return the air horn gasket to
FIG. 8 -Idle Speed

Adiustments-BV2-Typical
specifications (Part 109) by turning
the engine idle speed screw (Fig. 8)
inward or outward.
If the car is equipped with an auto
matic transmission, position the selector
lever in drive range to check and adjust
the idle speed to specification (Part 109)
if necessary.
The ftnal e~lne idle speed may

be varied to suit the conditions under which the ear is to be operated.
(On the Stromberg BV-2 carburettor,
cold idle speed is automatically obtained
with hot idle adjustment).
-Accelerating
Pump Stroke Adiustment
-Stromberg BV2
FIG. 9
ACCELERATING PUMP
ADJUSTMENTS
Accelerating Pump Stroke(Fig. 9)
Do not remove the carburettor from
the engine to adjust the pump stroke.

IDLE LIMITER CAPS
Should the idle limiter caps need replacement because of deformation or readjustment of idling mixture to meet
emission level requirements, the following
'thermal conductivity' type of gas analyzer
found in most service shops is not accurate
enough to give the required carbon monoxide readings.
2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and carefully pry the cap apart and remove it from
the idle adjustment screw.
3. Replace the air cleaner.
4. Set the ignition timing to specification.
To check the pump stroke :

1. Start the engine and run at idle
to normalise engine temperature. Set
the engine to the correct idle speed.
This is important as it gives the correct closed throttle position.
2. Stop engine and remove c~.ir
cleaner assembly (page 10-67, Section 2)
and carburettor air horn (page 10-20,
Section 3).
3. Measure from the top of the

pump piston stem to the top face of
the carburettor main body with gasket removed.
FIG. 10-Fioat Adiustment

its position and replace the air hom
and air cleaner 6BB6mbly.
The capacity of the accelerator

pump is correctly calibrated at the
specified pump stroke and any variation of this stroke outside the limits
given must result in reduced performance and economy.
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT
The dry fioat adjustment is a preliminary factory adjustment only,

The final adjustment <Fuel Level
Float Adjustment-Wet) must be
made after the carburettor is mounted on the engine.
FUEL LEVEL
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT (WET)
The fuel pump pressure and volume

must be to specification (Part 10-9)
prior to performing the following
adjustments : -
PART 10-2-STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR

drawn from the fuPl bowl.
1. Operate the engine to normalize

engine temperatures, and place the
car on a flat surface as near level as
possible. Stop the engine.
3. If necessary, remove the fuel

line and unscrew needle valve and
seat from main body.
2. Remove the carburettor air

cleaner assembly (page 10.-67 ,) Section
2) if it has not been previously removed.
3. Disconnect the choke cable from
the choke lever.
'- Remove the air horn retaining

screws and remove the air horn and
reinforcing bar.
5. Using a suitable piece of material
block off the vacuum passage in the carburettor body (Fig. 10). Start the engine.
Let the engine idle for sufficient time to
stabilize the fuel level then raise the gasket to an out-of-the-way position.
6. While the engine Is idling, use
a standard depth scale to measure
the vertical distance from the top
machined surface of the carburettor
main body to the level of the fuel
In the float chamber <Fig. 10>. The
measurement must be maae away
from any vertical surface to ensure
an accurate reading, because the
surface of the fuel 1s concave <higher
at the edges than In the centre) .
Float AdJustment
Care must be exercised to measure
the fuel level at the point of contact
with the fuel.
Do not apply pressure on the fuel
inlet needle. The viton tip of the
fuel inlet needle may be damaged
through undue pressure exerted on It,
and thus cause Improper fuel level
wjthln the bowl. Refer to the specifications <Part 10-9) for the correct
fuel level <wet> setting.
VENT VALVE ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure the engine idle speed is

correct and engine is at normal operating temperature. This is important
as it gives correct closed throttle
pcsition.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly
(page 10- 67) Section 2) and with the
throttle in the idle position, loosen
vent valve locknut and adjust from
.05"- .06" to the closed position when
throttle is opened.
3. Install air cleaner assembly. (page
10- 67 Section 2).
4. If the float was removed, install

the fulcrum pin in the float hinge
and position float in float chamber.
Replace the fulcrum-pin-retaining
clip.
5. If the float needle valve and
seat were removed insert the needle
valve into the bore, with the viton
tip toward the seat.
FIG. 11 -Vent Valve
Adiustment-Strombe rg
BV2
2. Remove the choke Unk from the
choke lever.
3. Remove t..'lle air horn to main
body retaining screws and remove the
reinforcing bar.
'- Remove the carburettor air horn.

5. From the top of the pump stem
remove the spring cUp and withdraw
the pump rod from the main body.
Remove and discard the gasket.
6. Install a new gasket on the
carburettor main body. Make sure the
gasket is not damaged and that no
foreign material has adhered to the
gasket.
7_ Insert the pump rod into its
guide hole In the main body and secure on pump stem with spring clip.
8. Replace the air horn and reinforcing bar and tighten screws.
9. Replace choke unk and clip.
10. Replace
air cleaner assembly.
11. Adjust the engine idle speed as outlined in this section.
I.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
6. Install needle and seat in main

body and tighten with wrench.
7. Reconnect fuel line and check
the float setting. Refer to Float Adjustment-Wet in this section for the
proper procedure.
8. Install the carburettor air horn
and gasket by following steps 6-10
under carburettor Air Horn to Main
Body Gasket Replacement in this
section.
MAIN JET REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the Metering Jet plug,

positioned below the fuel bowl. Removal of this plug allows the fuel
bowl to drain and care should be
taken to prevent accidental ignition
of fuel.
2. With a special wrench the main
metering jet can be unscrewed from
its position and withdrawn through
the metering jet plug hole.
3. Place the new main metering
jet in position on the wrench and
carefully feed through metering jet
plug hole. Screw the jet into position
without forcing or over-tightening.
4. Replace the metering jet plug
making sure that the copper seaUng
gasket is properly positioned. Tighten.
ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER
REPLACEMENT
I.
FLOAT OR NEEDLE VALVE

REPLACEMENT-
I. Remove the carburettor air horn

and gasket by following steps 1-5
under Air- Horn- to- Main-Body -Gasket
Replacement in this section.
CARIURmOR REPAIRS
AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY
GASKET REPLACEMENT-
10-19
2. If necessary, remove the float

chamber baffle and the fulcrum pin
retaining clip.
The float assembly
and fulcrum pin can n0w be with-
Remove the air cleaner assembly
2. Withdraw cho~e link-retaining

clip and remove choke link.
3. Remove the air horn to main
body retaining screws and the reinforcing bar. The air horn can now
be separated from the main body.
4. Place a small lever such as a
screwdriver under the horizontal area
of the pump rod and lever upwards
to remove the split spring retaining
10-20
bush from the top of the pump cylinder.
5. Remove the pump piston from
cylinder, remove spring clip from
pump stem and separate pump piston,
pump rod, spring, bush and gasket.
Discard the gasket.
6. Insert the new pump piston in
its cylinder taking care not to crease
or fold the leather. A circular twisting motion applied to the leather
assists in this operation as does a
drop of Ught lubricating oil. Place
the pump spring in position over the
pump stem and press in the split
spring retaining bush tlush with the
surface of the main body.
7. Place a new gasket on the main
body then fit the pump rod and
spring clip.
8. Replace the air horn in position on the main body. Holding the
reinforcing bar in position, install and
EJ
tighten air horn retaining screws.

Note that the two longer screws are
used to retain the reinforcing bar.
9. Replace tne choke link and install the retaining clip.
10. Perform a vent valve adjustment as outlined in this section.
11. Install the air cleaner assembly
VENT VALVE REPLACEMENT
STROMBERG BV -2
I.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Withdraw choke link-retaining

body retaining screw's and the reinforcing bar. The air horn can now
be separated from the main body.
4.
Loosen the vent valve locknut
and remove from the valve stem. This

will allow the valve stem and valve
spring to be withdrawn from the underneath side of the air horn.
5. Locate the vent valve spring on
the spigot provided on the underside
of the air horn and place the vent
valve stem in position. Install vent
valve locknut.
6. Replace the air horn in position
on the main body. Holding the reinforcing bar in position, install and
tighten air horn retaining screws.
Note that two longer screws are used
to retain the reinforcing bar.
7. Replace the choke link and mstall the retaining clip.
8. Perform a vent valve adjustment
as outlined in this section.
9.
Install the air cleaner assembly
REMOVAL, MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONSAND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
Flooding, stumble on acceleration
and other performance complaints are,
in many instances, caused by the
presence of dirt, water or other foreign
matter in the carburettor. To aid in
diagnosing the cause of complaint,
the carburettor should be carefully
removed from the engine without
removing the fuel from the bowl.
The contents of the bowl may then
be examined for contaminatiOn as
the carburettor is disassembled.
1. Remove the air cleaner. (pagel<r67).
2. Loosen the choke outer cable
clamp screw and the inner cable tocking
screw. Remove the cable.
3. Hold the carburettor fuel line
umon and undo and remove the fuel line.
4. Remove the spring clip and
washer from the throttle control l'od.
Remove the throttle control rod from
the carburet tor bracket.
5.
line.
Remove the distributor vacuum
6. Remove the two flange retaining

nuts and lock washers and remove the
carburettor. Remove the gaskets from
the intake manifold 11.nd discard.
DISASSEMBLY
Use a separate container for the
component parts of the various assemblies to facilitate cleaning, in-
spection and assembly.

The following is a step-by-step
sequence of operations for completely
overhauling the carburettor, however,
certain components of the carburettor
may be serviced without a complete
disassembly of the entire unit.
A disassembled view of the carburettor is shown in Fig. 12
AIR HORN AND MAIN BODY

I. Withdraw
choke-link-retaining

body retaining screws and reinforcing
bar. The air horn can now be separated
from the main body.
MAIN BODY AND THROTTLE

BODY
1. Remove choke outer cable clamp
screw and cable clamp. Disconnect
throttle return spring from lever on
throttle shaft.
2. Remove the main body to throttle
body retaining screws.
3. Separate the main body assembly,
the gasket and the throttle body.
Discard the gasket.
AIR HORN
I. With the special tool unscrew
the power piston assembly and remove it from its cylinder.
2.
Remove the vent valve locknut.
This will allow the valve stem and valve

spring to be withdrawn from the underneath side of the air horn.
3. Withdraw air cleaner bail pin from
its locating holes and remove bail from
air horn.
choke valve and shaft, lightly scribe
the choke valve along the choke shaft
so that the choke valve can be installed in the same position during
installation.
Remove the choke valve retaining
screws. The retaining screws are staked
in the choke shaft. If the tips of the
screws are flared excessively, file off the
flared portion to avoid damage to the
threads in the choke shaft.
Be careful not to damage the choke
shaft or valve while filing the screws.
Remove the choke valve from the top
of the air horn. Slide the choke shaft
and lever from the air horn and separate
shaft, lever and spring.
MAIN BODY
I. Withdraw screws and remove
choke control bracket assembly.
2. Place a small lever such as a

driver under the horizontal arm
of the pump rod and levering upwards remove the split spring retaining bush from the top of the pump
cylinder.
~crew
3. Remove the pump piston from

cylinder, remove spring clip from
PART 10-3-STROMBERG CARBURETTOR
. 10-21
to ensure correct Installation.

It Is impol'ta.nt that no probe or
wire be Inserted into the bore of the
main discharge jet.
To do so will
cause damage to the screen located
within.
11. Remove pump Inlet check valve.

lZ. Remove strainer
and strainer screen.
screen
clip
THROTTLE BODY
1. Do not remove the idle mixture

adjusting screw and spring unless absolutely necessary.
2. Remove the throttle lever retaining nut and lockwasher and remove throttle lever assembly.
3. If It Is necessary to remove the
throttle valve and shaft, lightly
scribe the throttle valve along the
throttle shaft so that the throttle
valve can be installed In the same
position during Installation.
Remove the throttle valve retaining

screws and slide the valve out of the
shaft. For assembly purposes note
that the dimple In the throttle valve
Is located above the throttle shaft.
If the tips of the screws are flared
excessively, file off the tlared section
to avoid damage to the threads In
the throttle shaft. Be careful not to
damage the throttle shaft or valve
while filing the screws.
C. Withdraw the throttle shaft
from the throttle body and remove
pump tloatlng lever from shaft.
FIG. 12 -Carburettor Exploded View

pump stem and separate pump piston,
pump rod, spring, bush and gasket.
Discard the gasket.
4. Withdrllw float chamber baffle
from guide slots. Remove fulcrumpin- retaining clip and withdraw fulcrum pin and float assembly. Remove needle valve. Unscrew and remove needle valve seat and gasket.
5. Unscrew and remove idle tube,

power by-pass jet and gasket.
6. Remove the main metering jet
and pump-inlet-check-valve plugs
and copper gaskets.
7. Remove the main metering jet

using special tool <6A12l.
8. Remove main discharge jet
using special tool <6Alll.
N.B. The main discharge jet is

accurately calibrated and assembled
within close tolerances during manufacture. For normal cleaning and
service operations It Is advisable to
leave the main discharge jet undisturbed. If, however, the main discharge jet is suspected of being damaged or is to be replaced, care
should be taken to note Its position
Clean and Inspect the carburettor

component parts. Refer to Part 10-1,
Section 3, for the proper procedure.
Replace all worn or damaged parts.
ASSEMBLY
Make sure all holes in the new
gaskets have been properly punched
and that no foreign material has
adhered to the gaskets.
During assembly of the carburettor,
certain adjustments are required. The
details of these adjustments are covered
on page 10 17
A disassembled view of the carburettor is shown in Fig. 12
AIR BORN
1. If the choke valve and shaft

were removed, reassemble the choke
10-22
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
shaft, lever and spring and insert the

shaft into the air horn with the lever
poin~ing downwards.
Refer to the line previously scribed
on the choke valve and locate the
choke valve in its original position
with valve !dentation facing upwards.
Install the choke valve retaining
screws snug, but not tight.
Check for proper valve fit, binding
in the air horn and free rotation of
the shaft by moving the valve from
the closed position to open position.
If it moves freely, tighten the choke
valve retaining screws while holding
the valve in the fully-closed position.
Stake the screws.
When staking the screws, support
the shaft and valve on a block of
wood or a metal bar to prevent bendIng of the shaft.
2. Replace the air cleaner . bail
making sure the bail pin engages
properly in holes.
3. Locate the vent valve sprin~
On the spigot provided on the underneath side of the air horn and place
the vent valve stem in position. Install vent valve locknut. Perforn,
the vent valve adjustment operation
after carburettor is assembled and
installed on engine.
4. Install the vacuum power piston
assembly and tighten it with special
tool. Check the piston for free movement in the cylinder. XX CAUTION
-Do not lubricate the piston.
MAIN BODY
1. Install the pump

screen and retaining clip.
straining
Z. Install the pump inlet check

valve.
3. If the main discharge jet was
removed, position the jet on the
special tool and install in position.
CAUTION-Make sure that the jet Is
correctly located in the body. The
mitred face of the jet must be parallel with the direction of the air flow.
Hold the main body of the carburettor in an inverted_ position so
that there is no possibility of the
main discharge jet being displaced,
then with the special tool, 6A12, install the main metering jet and tighten securely.
4.
5. Place new copper gaskets in the

plug seats of the body, then install
and tighten the main-metering-jet

plug and inlet-check-valve plug.
6. Install
tube.
and
tighten
the idle
"1. Using a new gasket install and

tighten the power by-pass jet.
8. Install the fulcrum pin in the

float hinge, place the float In the
main body so that the ends of the
fulcrum pin tit Into the grooves In
each side of the float chamber, place
the fulcrum pin clip ends In the
grooves and force the bowed part of
spring down to clip under the projection on the side of the body. Refit
the float chamber baffle.
9. Insert the pump piston In its

cylinder taking care not to crease or
fold the leather. A circular twisting
motion applied to the leather assists
in this operation as does a drop of
light lubricating oil. Place the pump
spring in position over the pump and
press in the split spring-retaining
bush flush with the surface of the
main body.
10. Place a new gasket on the malil
body then fit the pump rod and
spring clip.
11. Locate choke control bracket
assembly in position, install and
tighten retaining screws.
THROTTLE BODY
1. If the throttle shaft and throttle

valve were remoyed, fit the pump
floating lever to the throttle shaft
and slide the throttle shaft into the
throttle body, with the pump floating
lever positioned so that it will, when
assembled, make contact with the
pump rod fitted in the main body of
the carburettor.
Refer to the line previously scribed
on the throttie valve and insert the
valve through the slot in the throttle
shaft. The valve Indentation must
face the top of the body and be on
the idle mixture adjusting screw side
Qf the throttle shaft. Install the
throttle valve screws snug, but not
tight. Check that the throttle-leverlocating shoulders on the threaped
end of the throttle shaft are proud
of the tHrottle body boss.
Rotate the throttle shaft while
lightly tapping the throttle valve
within the throttle bore. Check for
free rotation of the throttle shaft
Hold tne throttle body up to the light
Little or no light should show between the throttle valve and throttle
bore. When the valve Is croperly

located, hold the valve closed; then
tighten and stake the retaining
screws, support the shaft and plate on
a block of wood or a metal bar to
prevent bending of the shaft.
2. Install the throttle lever, lockwasher and nut on the throttle shaft.
3. Install the idle needle valve and
spring in the throttle body if removed.
MAIN BODY TO THROTTLE.
BODY ASSEMBLY
1. Place a new gasket in position

on the throttle body and fit the main
body to throttle body.
Z. Install
tighten.
retaining
screws
and
3. Hook one end of throttle return spring in hole of throttle lever and
locate other end in hole in choke control
bracket assembly.
AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY

ASSEMBLY
1. Replace the air horn In position on the main body. Hold the
reinforcing bar in position, Install
and tighten air horn retaining screws.
note that two longer screws are used
to retain the reinforcing bar.
Z. Replace the choke link and install the retaining clip.
CARIURmOR INSTALLATION
1. Cle~~:n the gasket surface of the
ca.rburettor and intake manifold. Place
a new gasket on the manifold and
position the carburettor on the manifold.
2. Connect the fuel line and distributor vacuum line.
3. Install the carburettor lockwashers and retaining nuts and tighten.

4. Fit the accelerator linkage, return spring and choke cable.
5. Adjust the engine idle speed, idle
fuel mixture and choke operation as
described under 'Invehicle Adjustments
and Repairs' in this section. Install the
air cleaner (page 10-67)
Note: Extreme care must be taken with

the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment (page
10-18)
10-.23
PART
10-3
STROMBERG CARBURETTOR- WW SERIES

250C.I.D. 2 V- 302 C.I.D. ENGINES
Section
1 Description and Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 Invehicle Adjustments and Repairs ........
Carburettor Adjustments ....... . ......
Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment ......
Idle Limiter Cap Replacement ..........
10-23
10-23
10-24
10-28
10-28
10-29
10-31
Section
3 Major Repair Operations
Carburettor Repairs . . . .
Disassembly . . . . . . . .
Inspection . . . . . . . . . .
Assembly . . . . . . . . . .
Final Assembly . . . . . .
..............
..............
..............
..............
.... ..........
..............
10-31
10-31
10-31
10-31
10-32
10-33
DESCRIPTION
In common with other WW series carburettors, these units are of the dual-barrel downdraught type
with each barrel having its own Idle System, Main Metering System and Throttle Valve. The two barrels
have a common Float System, Accelerating System and Power System. Each barrel is equipped with a main
and an auxiliary Venturi (Choke Tube).
The carburettors employ an automatic choke control situated in the throttle body, and activated by
hot air delivered to the choke control through a pipe attached to the exhaust manifold.
The float chamber is vented to atmosphere at closed throttle, (i.e. when idling or stopped) and to
carburettor air inlet pressure, through a passage and vent tube in the air horn, at all other throttle positions.
The vacuum connection for the distributor vacuum spark advance is located in the main body. A drilled
passage through the main body meets a channel in the throttle body to transmit the vacuum from the
vacuum spark hole (or holes) located in the throttle body.
A steel connector for the positive crankcase ventilation hose is located in the carburettor throttle body.
10-24
FLOAT SYSTEM (Fig. 2)
OPERATION
IOU DISCHARGE HOU5
IDLE SYSTEM (Figs. 2 and 3)

Identical idle systems supply each barrel with
the correctly proportioned fuel/air mixture
required for idling operation.
FIG. 1 -
3/4 Left Rear View
Fuel enters the carburettor at the fuel inlet,

flowing through the float needle valve and seat into
the float chamber. When the fuel reaches a
predetermined level, the float shuts off the fuel
supply by closing the needle valve against its seat.
The throttle valves are held open to the correct

slow-idle position by the slow idle adjustment
screw. By turning this screw the throttle valve
opening is varied . thereby controlling the amount
of air entering the engine and regulating the idle
speed . (A single barrel only will be considered in
the following explanation).
The needle valve is equipped with a viton

rubber tip to provide increased service life and
greater tolerance of any dirt particles that may
enter with the fuel.
As previously mentioned, the float chamber is
vented internally through a passage and vent tube
whenever the engine is running above idle speed.
(Internal venting ensures that any reduction of air
pressure in the air horn, due to a restricted air
cleaner, is balanced by a similar reduction in the air
pressure acting on the fuel in the float chamber.
The fuel/air mixture ratio will therefore remain
unchanged under these conditions).
When the engine is stopped or whilst idling,
the float chamber is vented to atmosphere via the
opening in the air horn, through which the
accelerating pump piston stem passes.
This opening is normally closed by a metal
vent washer which is lifted clear of the vent orifice
by a small pin in the pump piston stem as the
throttles return to slow-idle position. The purpose
of the external vent is to permit the escape uf fuel
vapours formed in the float chamber under high
temperature operating conditions. Additionally,
the throttle body has two small vents, one in each
barrel to permit the escape of fuel vapours which
may accumulate in this area. (Refer Fig. 2.)
tOil DISCHARGE HOlES
FIG. 3
With the throttle valve closed to idle position,
engine depression is concentrated on the idle
discharge nozzle located below the throttle valve.
Consequently, fuel flows from the base of the main
discharge jet through the idle tube (Slow-Running Jet)
where it is metered by a calibrated orifice in the base
of the tube.
The metered fuel mixes with air taken in through
the idle air bleed, and the resulting fuel/air emulsion
passes down the idle channel where it mixes with
additional air passing through the secondary idle air
bleed and through the two upper idle discharge holes.
The mixture finally passes from the idle discharge
nozzle into the air passing the partly open throttle.
10-25
PART 10-3-STROMBERG WW CARBURETTOR

The quantity of mixture discharged through the nozzle
is controlled by an adjustable idle needle valve. Turning
this needle valve "IN" weakens the idle mixture and
turning it "OUT" enriches the mixture.
As the throttle valve is opened slightly, the upper
idle discharge holes com(. under engine depression and
supply the additional fuel required for increased engine
speed.
MAIN METERING SYSTEM (Fig. 4)

The main metering system supplements the idle
system and provides the additional fuel required during
the intermediate or part throttle range of operation.
AUXIUAlY VINTUII
TUII
FIG. 4
THROTTLI VAt. VI
FIG. 5
During idle and part throttle operation inlet

manifold vacuum is sufficient to hold the vacuum
piston "UP" against its spring. The power by-pass
jet is closed and all mixture is supplied by the main
metering and idle systems.
When the throttle valves are opened beyond a
certain point the manifold vacuum drops to a
lower value than the spring force and the vacuum
piston moves "DOWN" opening the power by-pass
jet and allowing additional fuel to flow into the
two main metering discharge systems.
TIOml VAt.VI
Each barrel is equipped with its own main

metering system, the method of operation of the
two systems being identical. (A single barrel only
will be considered in the following explartation).
With the throttle valve in a partially open
position, air flow through the main and auxiliary
venturis (choke tubes) produces a depression at the
outlet of the main discharge jet. As a result, fuel
flows from the float chamber through the main
metering jet and into the main discharge jet where
it mixes with air taken in through the high speed
bleeder. This fuel/air emulsion then discharges into
the air stream passing through the auxiliary and
main venturis.
POWER SYSTEM (Fig. 5)
A common power system supplies each main
metering discharge system with the additional fuel
required for the development of maximum engine
power.
This additional fuel is provided by the action
of a vacuum piston located in the air horn which
automatically controls the opening of the power
by-pass jet in accordance with throttle opening and
engine load. Inlet manifold vacuum is maintained
above the vacuum piston through a vacuum
channel which leads to the mounting flange of the
carburettor.
ACCELERATING SYSTEM (Figs. 6 and 7)
OUTlfT IIAU CHKK
10.001
II'.JN' JIISTON
FIG. 6
TI<TTLI VAI.VI
To ensure smooth acceleration, additional fuel

must be supplied to the engine during the period of
acceleration .
This is achieved by the use of an accelerating
pump which is operated by the throttle linkage. As
the throttle valves are opened, the pump lever
compresses the pump-piston-duration spring and
the pump piston is forced down, creating a
pressure which closes the inlet ball check valve, and
forces a quantity of fuel through the outlet ball
check valve and pump discharge nozzle (Fig. 6).
The pump piston duration spring ensures the pump
discharge is spread over a predetermined period of
time .
10-26
11\JW OtS(HAIGI
'
NOUU
VAlV(
FIG. 7
When the accelerator pedal is released the

pump piston is drawn up and the outlet ball check
valve closes (preventing the entry of air into the
pump system) whilst a fresh fuel charge is drawn in
through the now open inlet ball check valve.
The pump discharge nozzle is vented through
the float chamber ve.nt tube to prevent Joss of fuel
from the pump circuit at high ehgine-speeds when
a low depression is created at the nozzle outlet by
the high air-flow through the carburettor.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE (Fig. 8)

The automatic choke control is built integral
with the carburettor throttle body. The control
consists of a thermostat spring (I) activated by hot
air drawn through a pipe from the exhaust
manifold (302) ot cylinder head (250).
The thermostat spring is connected to the
offset choke valve (4) through the thermostat lever
(2), choke rod (3) and choke lever (5). Other
components of the choke system are the choke
kick diaphragm (6) which is dCtuated by inlet
manifold vacuum through a connecting tube and
vacuum passage in the carburettor, and the fast idle
mechanism (Fig. 9) which operates in conjunction
with the automatic choke control to provide the
correct fast idle speeds to prevent stalling during
the engine warm-up period.
An integral part of the choke lever is the choke
modulation spring (7). This spring provides
additional choke valve control as desc'ribed later in
this section.
L_~_J
FIG. 8
fast idle stop screw away from the fast idle cam,
allowing the cam to turn.
The choke valve will then assume its closed
position, which will vary according to the
prevailing underbonnet temperature. With the
choke fully closed, the fast idle stop screw is in
contact with the highest step of the fast idle cam
and the throttle valves are opened sufficiently for a
cold start.
CHOKE VALVE
CHOKE OPERATION
CHOKE CLOSED - FAST IDLE - COLD
ENGINE (Figs. 8 and 9)
As the engine cools the thermostat spring also
cools and, gaining tension, tends to rotate the
choke valve towards the closed position. It is,
however, unable to close the chpke valve until the
throttle valves are opened sufficiently to move the
'
When the engine fires, inlet manifold vacuum

exerts a pull on the choke kick diaphragm which
opens the choke valve a small amount against the
thermostat spring tension to supply the necessary
air for a weaker running mixture. Immediately

following a start, the accelerator pedal is depressed
and released to allow the fast idle cam to rotate
and assume its normal fast idle position.
CHOKE PARTIALLY OPEN WARMING UP (Fig. 10)
ENGINE
10-27
CHOKE MODULATION SPRING (Fig. 8)

The choke modulation spring (7) is an integral
part of the choke lever (5) and provides additional
choke valve control in the following manner.
CHOKE IN WARM IDLE POSITION
As the engine warms, the amount the choke

valve opens in excess of the diaphragm kick
opening is governed by the balance of the forces of
thermostat coil tension and air velocity.
If the throttle opening is increased the
increased air velocity against the offset choke valve
causes the valve to open against the tension of the
thermostat spring.
Heat from the exhaust manifold or cylinder head
gradually decreases the thermostat spring tension,
allowing the choke valve to open progressively until
it assumes its full open position when the engine is
at normal d erating tern erature.
FIG. 11
FAST IDLE
CAM
FIG. 10
During this warm up period, as the choke valve

opens, the fast idle rod allows the unbalanced fast
idle cam to rotate so that the fast idle stop screw
rests on successively lower steps of the cam. The
engine will therefore idle at progressively slower
fast idle speeds until the next phase of operation is
reached, namely :CHOKE OPEN - ENGINE WARM - SLOW
IDLE (Fi2. 11)
With the engine at normal operating
temperature (choke valve wide open) the fast idle
cam rotates to its fully released position with ~pace
between the cam and the end of the fast idle stop
screw.
The throttle opening is now controlled entirely
by the slow idle adjustment screw which is set to
provide the normal specified slow idle speed.
When the engine is cold, the choke thermostat

spring ( 1) exerts a closing force on the choke valve
( 4 ). The colder the temperature the greater is the
closing force exerted .
Immediately the engine fires , the choke kick
diaphragm unit (6) endeavours to open the choke
valve to prevent overrichness.
Depending upon the engine temperature and
the resulting thermostat spring force acting to close
the choke valve, the modulation spring will deflect
a varying amount, thereby altering the amount the
choke valve is effectively opened.
In cold temperatures the choke valve will be
opened less than in warmer temperatures.
WIDE OPEN KICK DEVICE
In cases where a cold engine does not start

readily and becomes flooded, it is necessary to
admit air to the engine to clean out the excess fuel
before starting is possible . This is achieved with the
WW series by opening the throttles wide when a
projecting ear on the throttle lever contacts an
extension on the fast idle cam forcing the cam to
rotate and pulling open the choke valve against the
thermostat spring tension.
Further cranking of the engine with the
throttle held wide open will clean ou t the manifold
and allow the engine to start.
10-28
EJ
The adjustments described and illustrated in

this part should be performed as required to retain
the desired engine performance characteristics. Refer
to the specifications whenever carburettor adjustments are made.
CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENTS
The following adjustments should be made in
the sequence listed with the carburettor in situ on
the engine with air cleaner removed (Part 10-7).
~------------------------------------------------,
FAST IDLE C
FAST IDLE SPEED AND CAM POSITION

(Fig. 12)
SLOW IDLE
ADJUSTMENT SCREW
FIG. 13
WIDE OPEN KICK (Fig. 14)
BEND EAR OF
THROTTLE
(As required)
FIG. 12
Turn out slow-idle adjustment screw (Fig. 13)

far enough to clear throttle lever ear when the
throttle valves are fully closed against their bores.
Hold throttles in fully closed position and turn
fast idle stop screw out until fast idle cam can be
positioned with screw on second step of cam, as
illustrated. From the point of initial contact with
second step of cam, adjust to obtain correct fast idle
R.P.M.
(In wide open position)
FIG. 14
VACUUM KICK (Fig. 15)
With fast idle stop screw on second step of

cam as illustrated in Fig. 12, apply light closing
pressure to choke valve to take up slack in linkage.
Measure choke opening "G" with a drill shank.
If opening is not 0.165", bend fast idle rod at
point indicated to obtain correct setting.
Apply light closing pressure to choke valve,
then open throttle valves to wide open position.
The choke valve should open just enough to allow
the insertion of drill gauge "C" between the choke
valve and wall of air hom. Bend ear on the throttle
Choke Link
(Bend as required)
Press and Hold Diaphragm
at Its full limit of Travel
FIG. 15
lever as required to obtain correct opening of

0.250".
10-29

Depress diaphragm pull rod to the full limit of
its travel and apply light upward pressure to choke
lever to take up slack in linkage and t<.. deflect the
modulation spring so that the choke link is at the
end of its slot in the choke lever.
Hold in this position and check choke valvt>
opening "D" with a drill gauge. If opening is not
0.140", bend choke link at point indicated to
obtain correct setting. After bending link, ensure
choke valve does not bind in any position.
EXTERNAL VENT AND ACCELERATING
PUMP STROKE (Fig. 16)
With throttle valves fully closed agamst their
bores (i.e. slow idle adjustment screw backed out
clear of shut throttle lever-), and with pump rod in
throttle lever hole specified, check the external
vent washer, opening "J".
Bend pump rod at point indicated to obtain
specified opening.
THERMOSTAT LEVER POSITIONING (Fig. 18)

Hold choke valve closed by applying light
upward pressure on thermostat lever pick up ear in
direction shown by arrow.
The dimension "TL" measured from centre of
upper right cover screw hole to thermostat lever
pick up ear should be 1.094".
CHOKE ROO
(Bend as required)
THERMOSTAT LEVER
PICK-UP EAR
FIG. 18
If dimension is not as specified, adjust by

bending choke rod at point indicated.
FIG. 16
NOTE: Make sure choke valve is held open dunng

above check so that throttle valves can close fully.
CHOKE MODULATION SPRING (Fig. 17)
Spring must not rub on
sides of spring guard
after adjustment .
DRILL GAUGE "M"

Must be perpendicular
to lever.
\.
Adjust bY bending
spring here.
FIG. 17
Insert drill gauge "M" in slot under choke

modulation spring free end. With gauge at 'right
angle to choke lever, spring should contact gauge.
Adjust modulation spring tension by bending in
area shown near clamped end of spring to obtain
0.030".
IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE

ADJUSTMENT.
All Stromberg carburettors fitted to XA/ZF
Falcon/Fairlane engines are equipped with limiter
caps on .the idle mixture adjusting screws. The
limiters control the maximum idle richness and
help prevent unauthorised persons from making
overly rich idle adjustments.
Note: Carbon Monoxide emission at idle speed not
to exceed 4.5%.
The limiter cap fitted to the Stromberg carburettor is free turning on the head of the idle mixture
adjusting screw , therefore THE ONLY IDLE
ADJUSTMENT ALLOWABLE IN NORMAL SERVICE IS THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED.
A satisfactory idle should be obtained, providing
all other engine systems are operating within
specifications.
I. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
2. Attach a tachometer to the engine.
3. Turn on the headlamps to place the alternator
under load and turn on the air conditioner if so
equipped.
4. On a car with manual transmission the engine
idle speed is checked and adjusted with the gearshift lever in neutral position. On an automatic
transmission car the idle speed is first checked and
adjusted with the transmission selector lever in the
neutral position and again with the lever in the
drive range position.
10-30
<"30
Parts Illustrated are typical In appearance and

may not look exactly like the part required.
FIG. 20

5. Adjust the engine idle speed to specification
by turning the engine idle speed screw (Fig. 13)
inward or outward.
6. Remove the tachometer from the engine and
turn the headlights and airconditioner off.
IDLE LIMITER CAPS
Should the idle limiter caps need replacement
because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment
of idling mixture to meet emission level requirements, the following pracedure must be adhered to
as the 'thermal conductivity' type of gas analyzer
found in most service shops is not accurate enough
to give the required carbon monoxide readings.
2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and carefully pry
apart and remove it from the idle adjustment screw.
EJ
10-31

5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the engine.
6. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screws to give
the best quality idle at 20 R .P.M. above the
specified idle speed .
8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture screws an
equal amount on each screw by turning in a clockwise direction until the engine R.P.M. drops to the
specified idle speed.
10. Carefully install the black service limiter caps
on the head of each idle mixture adjusting screw.
Use a straight thumb push or the end of 3/8" rod.
11. Replace the air cleaner and check the idle
speed to ensure that the mixture screws were not
accidently rotated while fitting the limiter caps.
12. Remove the tachometer from the engine.
CARBURETIOR REPAIRS
Clean exterior of carburettor to facilitate
handling and disassembly. Cleanliness of hands,
bench and tools is essential for efficient
carburettor servicing.
Separate the carburettor into its three basic
sub-assemblies, namely - Air Horn, Main Body and
Throttle Body.
Disassemble each sub-assembly into its
component parts, using the following special tools
in addition to normal workshop tools.
Stromberg Tool Part No. 73605 - for bending
float lever when adjusting the float level.
Stromberg Tool Part No. 73606 - for removal and
replacement of main metering jets (Item 32, Fig. 20).
Stromberg Tool Part No. 73608- for removal and
replacement of the main discharge jets (Item 31,
Fig. 20). NOTE: Unless damage is evident or
suspected the main discharge jets should not be
disturbed.
DISASSEMBLY
The throttle valves in the open position extend
below the throttle body flange. Care should be
exercised to avoid damaging the valves or changing
their position in the throttle bores. It is
recommended that a suitable holding fixture be
made up and used when servicing these units.
AIR HORN (Fig. 20)

Remove vacuum power piston ( 19) using a
block of wood and small open end wrench as a pry.
This item is staked in position.

NOTE: The pump lever fulcrum screw ( 12) has a
left hand thread.
Choke valve securing screws (7) are staked in
their shafts. When removing choke valve (8) file off
flared end of screws before unscrewing.
MAIN BODY (Fig. 20)
The idle tubes (26) are removed by lifting out
of their recesses in main body.
When pump pistoa (70) is removed place palm
of hand over pump cylinder and invert main body
to remove pump inlet check ball ( 65) from
cylinder.
Place hand over float chamber when removing
spring clip (63) to prevent possible Injury from
flying clip.
After pump nozzle (21) is removed, invert
main body and catch outlet check ball (23) as it
drops from channel.
THROTTLE BODY (Fig. 20)
NOTE: Because of the very accurate production
fit, the throttle shaft and valves should not be
removed unless excessive wear is evident.
Throttle valve securing screws ( 41) are staked
in their shaft. If removing valves, file off flared end
of screws before unscrewing.
INSPECTION
Having disassembled each sub-assembly,
thoroughly clean all castings and metal parts in a
suitable cleaning solvent and blow out all passages
and tubes with compressed air. Inspect castings for
10-32
damage, excessive wear, burrs and warpage. Make

certain the throttle body is free of all hard carbon
deposits.
Clean all jets and main discharge jets (if
removed) by washing in cleaning solvent and
blowing through with air. Do not clean or size
these parts with drills or wires as such treatment
will affect their metering characteristics.
Discard all old gaskets and washers and use a
new Gasket Set when assembling. Genuine Repair
Kits are available and contain all components
required for a normal overhaul.
ASSEMBLY
Re-assembly each sub-assembly replacing all

components exhibiting damage or excessive wear.
PartiCular attention should be paid to the following
points.
AIR HORN (Fig. 20)
Vacuum piston (19) is staked in place after
installation. Check the piston for free movement in
its cylinder. Do not lubricate piston or cylinder
bore.
Before tightening choke valve securing screws
(7) close valve and check for proper valve fit
against a light. Stake hollow ends of securing
screws after tightening. The choke shaft (6) should
be supported during this operation to prevent
bending of the shaft.
After air horn is assembled, check free
movement of choke valve and shaft as shaft
assembly is moved from its open to closed
position.
MAIN BODY (Fig. 20)
If main discharge jets (31) have been removed ,
install each jet with the bevelled side of the jet tip
parallel to the sides of the small auxiliary venturi .
(Use Stromberg Tool 73608 when installing).
Replace main metering jets (32) using
Stromberg Tool 73606. Screw jets home firmly but
avo.id overti'ghtening as damage to the main
discharge jets may occur.
Pump inlet check ball ( 65) fits in a central seat
located in bottom of pump piston cylinder. Pump
outlet check ball (23) drops into channel under
pump nozzle screw (20).
Assemble float fulcrum pin (62) in float lever
and install float in float chamber. Place ends of
fulcrum pin spring (63) against ledges in float
chamber and press loop of spring under boss to
secure spring.
FIG. 21
SETIING FLOAT LEVEL (Fig. 21)

With main body held in an inverted position
and with only weight of float holding float needle
valve shut, the float level "X" is measured from
main body (gasket removed) to centre of float
using Stromberg float gauge No. 73725 or a depth
gauge.
(Refer to the Specification Listing for the
correct float level dimension "X").
To adjust float level, bend float lever next to
float using Stromberg Tool 73605. Hold lip of
float lever away from needle valve when bending
float lever to avoid damaging the rubber needle tip.
After float setting is made, turn carburettor to
upright position, install idle tubes (26) and place
pump inlet check ball (65) on its seat in bottom of
pump cylinder. Assemble pump bottom spring
(66) on pump piston and install pump piston in
its cylinder, making certain that piston leather is
not creased and that it bears evenly on its
complete circumference. (Apply a few drops of
light engine oil to the piston leather before
installing).
THROTTLE BODY (Fig. 20)
If the throttle shaft was removed, insert
throttle shaft in throttle body and assemble
throttle valves in same position and barrel that
valves were removed from, leaving securing screws
(41) loose. Close throttle lever and check valves for
J?est closing against a light before tightening screws.
After tightening, the hollow screw ends should be
staked. Support throttle shaft and valves during
this operation to prevent bending of shaft.
Install idle needle valves (45) and springs (44).
Tum each needle valve in lightly against its seat,
then back out each valve one and a. half turns.
Install thermostat lever & shaft (51). Assemble
PART 10-3-STROMBERG W W CARBURETTOR

lever (50) on end of shaft and replace lockwasher
and nut. Tighten nut. Install slow idle stop s~.:rew
(38) and spring (37) also assemble fast idle screw
(39) if removed.
THERMOSTAT COVER ASSEMBLY
AND ADJUSTMENT
Do not install thermostat cover (55) until the
Thermostat Lever Positioning Setting "TL'' has
been completed.
A new gasket (54) should then be placed on
the thermostat cover and the cover assembled on
its housing with hook of the thermostat spring
"DOWN". Rotate cover counter-clockwise and set
indicator mark on cover as specified in the
Specification Listing. Replace and tighten screws
(53) and lug washers (52).
FINAL ASSEMBLY (Fig.20)
Place air hom gasket (10) on main body.

Carefully guide air hom over pump piston stem,
align holes in air hom (9), gasket (I 0) and main
body, tlren replace and tighten air hom attaching
screws (5).
NOTE: Hold air hom in exact vertical position
when assembling to avoid possibility of the vacuum
piston stem ( 19) becoming wedged between the
10-33
power by-pass jet (24) and the main body, and to

ensure the upper ends of the idle tubes (26) engage
in their passages in the air hom.
Invert carburettor and place main body gasket
(35) on main body. Place throttle body (36) on
gasket, align holes, and install and tighten the
attaching screws (46 & 47).
Install keyed end of fast idle rod (29) to lever
( 11) and insert opposite end of rod in slot of fast
idfe cam. Secure with retainer clip (28) assembling
straight side of clip in the rod hole.
Place vent washer (71) over stem of pump
piston (70) and attach pump stem to pump lever
(15) with cotter pin (18). Secure pump lever to air
hom with fulcrum screw (16) (L.H. Thread).
Assemble upper end of pump rod (17) to pump
lever (15) and install lower end of pump rod in
hole of throttle lever. Replace cotter pins (18).
Assemble keyed end of choke rod (59) in
thermostat shaft lever (50) and install opposite end
of rod in choke lever using cotter pin ( 60).
Assemble bracket (74) complete with dashpot
(76) under heads of securing screws (75).
10-34
PART
104
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D 2V CARBURETTOR
Section
1 Description and Operation .............................................
2 Common Adjustments & Repairs ...................................
Idle Speed Adjustment... .................................................
Idle Limiter Cap Replacement.........................................
3 Major Repairs Operations................................................
10-34
10-38
10-38
10-40
10-43
DESCRIPTION
AUTOMATIC
E
The Motorcraft Model 21 00-D 2- V

carburettor (Figs. 1, and 2) has two
main assemblies, the air hom and the
main body.
The air hom assembly, which
serves as the main body cover,
contains the choke plate, choke
diaphragtn assembly and the internal
vents for the fuel bowl.
The throttle plate, the accelerating
pump assembly, the power valve
assembly, and the fuel bowl are in the
main body. The automatic choke
housing is attached to the main body.
Each bore contains a main and
booster venturi, main fuel discharge,
accelerating pump discharge, idle
fuel dis<;:harge and a throttle plate.
The Motorcraft Model 21 00-D 2-V
used on the 351-C engine has a
unique two-piece fast idle lever and
the crankcase emission hose connection is incorporated in the main body.
OPERATION
FUEL INLET SYSTEM

The amount of fuel entering the
fuel bowl (Fig. 3) is regulated by the
distance the fuel inlet needle is raised
off its seat and by fuel pump pressure. Movement of the fuel inlet
needle in relation to the seat is controlled by the float and lever assembly
which rises and falls with the fuel level. When the fuel in the fuel bowl
reaches a pre-set level, the float low-
ACCELERATING
PUMP ASSEMBLY
V120~A
FIG. 1 - Motorcraft Modei210Q-D, 2 V

Carburetor- Left Front 3/4 View typical
ers the fuel inlet needle to a position

where it restricts the flow of fuel, admitting only enough fuel to replace
that being used.
An integral retaining clip is attached to the fuel inlet needle assembly. The clip hooks over the tab on
the end of the lever of the float assembly. This clip assures reaction of
the fuel inlet needle to any downward
movement of the float.
A wire-type retainer prevents
movement of the float shaft within
PART 10-4- MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR

INTERNAL
BOWL VENTS
CHOKE PLATE
CHOKE OIAPHRAGM
ASSEMBLY
CHOKE HEAT TUBE

CONN ECTION
CURB IOL E
AOJU STIN G SCREW
V1200-A
FIG. 2- Motorcraft Modei2100-D, 2- V

Carburetor - Left Rear 3/4 View - Typical
. . FUEL
82598-A
FIG. 3-Fuel Inlet System

the guides on each side of the fuel
bowl. The retainer fits into a groove
on the outside of the fuel inlet nee-
die seat. The ends of the retainer are

hooked over grooves on opposite
ends of the float shaft.
10-35
The fuel bowl is internally vented

into the air cleaner. It is also externally vented to the atmosphere.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE SYSTEM
The choke plate, located in the air
horn above the barrels, when closed,
provides a high vacuum above as
well as below the throttle plates. With
a vacuum above the throttle plates,
fuel will flow from the main fuel system as well as from the idle fuel system. This provides the extremely rich
fuel mixture necessary for cold engine operation.
The carburettor choke shaft is
linked to a thermostatic choke control mechanism mounted on the main
body (Fig. 4).
The linkage between the choke lever and the throttle shaft is designed
so that the choke plate will partially
open when the accelerator pedal is
fully depressed. This permits unloading of a flooded engine.
The automatic choke is equipped
with a bimetal thermostatic spring
and a vacuum piston (Fig. 4). The
bimetal thermostatic spring mechanism winds up when cold and unwinds when warm. When the engine
is cold, the thermostatic spring,
through attaching linkage, holds the
choke piston upward and the choke
plate in a closed position prior to
engine start. Manifold vacuum channeled through a passage in the choke
control housing draws the choke
vacuum piston downward, exerting an
opening force on the choke plate.
When the engine is started, manifold vacuum, acting directly on the
piston located in the choke housing,
immediately moves the choke plate
against the tension of the thermostatic spring to a partially open position
to prevent stalling.
As the engine continues to operate, manifold vacuum draws heated
air from the inlet manifold heat
chamber. The amount of air entering
the choke housing is controlled by
restrictions in the air passages in the
carburet tor.
The warmed air enters the choke
housing and heats the thermostatic
spring, causing it to unwind. The tension of the thermostatic spring gradually decreases as the temperature of
the air from the heat chamber rises,
allowing the choke plate to open. The
air is exhausted into the intake manifold.
When the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, the thermostatic spring exerts tension on the
10-36

so that the choke plate will partially
open when the accelerator pedal is
fully depressed. This permits unloading of a flooded engine.
THERMOSTATIC
SPRING
CHOKE HOUSING
PISTON AND LEVER ASSEMBLY

:JcLEAN AIR
~HEATED
AIR
~VACUUM
B2599A
FIG. 4-Automatic Choke System

choke plate forcing it to the full
open position. In this position, thr
choke piston is at its lowest point in
the cylinder. Slots in the piston chamber wall allow sufficient air to bleed
past the piston and into the intake
manifold, causing a continual flow of
warm air to pass through the thermostatic spring housing. The spring remains heated and the choke plate remains fully open until the engine is
stopped and allowed to cool.
The choke rod actuates the fast
idle cam during choking. Steps on the
edge of the fast idle cam contact the
fast idle adjusting screw. This permits
a faster engine idle speed for smoother running when the engine is cold.
As the choke plate is moved through
its range of travel from the closed to
the open position, the choke rod rotates the fast idle cam. Each step on
the fast idle cam permits a slower idle
rpm as engine temperature rises and
choking is reduced.
During the warm-up period, if the
engine should reach the stall point
due to a lean mixture, manifold vacuum will drop considerably. The tension of the thermostatic spring then
overcomes the lowered vacuum acting on the choke piston and the
choke plate is moved toward the
closed position, providing a richer
mixture to help prevent stalling.
The linkage between the choke lever and the throttle shaft is designed
IDLE FUEL SYSTEM

The difference in pressure between
the fuel bowl and the idle discharge
port forces fuel through the idle fuel
system. Fuel flows from the fuel bowl
through the main jet and into the bottom of the main well (Fig. 5).
From the main well, the fuel flows
up through the idle tube and through
a short diagonal passage in the booster venturi assembly into the idle passage in the main body. A calibrated
restriction, at the upper tip of the idle
tube, meters the flow of fuel.
Air enters the idle system from the
air bleed, located directly above the
idle tube. The air bleed also acts as a
vent to prevent siphoning at off idle
or high speeds and when the engine is
stopped. Additional air is bled into
the system through an air bleed located at the bottom of the diagonal
passage in the booster venturi wh"re
the fuel enters the idle passage in
the main body.
Fuel flows down the idle passage in
the main body past three idle transfer
holes. The idle transfer holes act as
additional air bleeds at curb idle. The
IDLE DISCHARGE
AIR
FUELAI R
. . FUEL
B2600.A
FIG. 5-ldle Fuel System
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR
fuel then flows past the pointed tip of

the adjusting needle which controls
the idle fuel discharge. From the adjusting needle chamber, the fuel flows
through a short horizontal passage
and is discharged below the throttle
plates.
During off idle when the throt\le
plate is moved slightly past the idle
transfer holes, each hole begins discharging fuel as it is exposed to manifold vacuum. As the throttle plate is
opened still wider and engine speed
increases, the air flow through the
carburetor is also increased. This
creates a vacuum in the booster venturi strong enough to bring the main
fuel system into operation. Fuel flow
from the idle fuel system tapers off
as the main fuel system begins discharging fuel.
ACCELERATING SYSTEM
Upon acceleration, the air flow
through the carburettor responds almost immediately to the increased
throttle opening. There is, however, a
brief interval before the flowing fuel,
which is heavier than air, can gain
the required flow speed to maintain
the desired balance of fuel and air.
During the interval, the accelerating
system (Fig. 6) supplies fuel until
the other systems can once again
provide the proper mixture.
When the throttle is closed, the
diaphragm return spring forces the
diaphragm toward the cover, drawing
fuel into the chamber through the inlet. The inlet has an Elastomer
valve which uncovers the inlet hole
to admit fuel from the fuel bowl.
The valve covers the inlet hole when
the accelerating pump is operated to
prevent the fuel from returning to
the bowl. A discharge weight and
ball check prevents air from entering the discharge nozzle when fuel
is drawn into the diaphragm chamber.
When the throttle is opened, the
diaphragm rod is forced inward, forcing fuel from the chamber into the
discharge passage. Fuel under pressure forces the pump discharge
weight and ball off their seat and fuel
passes through the accelerating pump
discharge screw and is sprayed into
each main venturi through discharge
ports .
. An air bleed in the wall of the accelerating pump fuel chamber prevents vapor entrapment and pressure
build-up in the diaphragm chamber.
10-37
PRIMAR Y FUEL BOWL
PUMP DISCHARGE NOZZLE
PUMP DISCHARGE WEIGHT
BALL CHECK
PUMP DISCHARGE
. . FUEL
82601-A
FIG. 6-Accelerating Pump System

=l AIR
:::::1 FUEL -AIR

. . . FUEL
4pm
VACUUM
HIGH SPEED AIR BLEED
ANTI-SIPHON AIR BLEED
MAIN WELL TUBE
MAIN WELL
FIG. 7-Main Fuel System
62602 - A
10-38
MAIN FUEL SYSTEM
As engine speed increases, the air
passing through the booster venturi
creates a vacuum. The amount of
vacuum is determined by the air flow
through the venturi, which in turn is
regulated by the speed of the engine.
The difference in pressure between
the main discharge port and the fuel
bowl causes fuel to flow through the
maio fuel system (Fig. 7).
At a predetermined venturi vacuum, fuel flows from the fuel bowl,
through the maio jets, and into the
bottom of the main well. The fuel
moves up the main well tube past air
bleed holes. Filtered air from the
high speed air bleed enters the fuel
flow in the main well tube through
holes in the side of the tube . The high
speed air bleed meters an increasing
amount of air to the fuel as venturi
vacuum increases, maintaining the re
quired fuel-air ratio. The mixture of
fuel and air is lighter than raw fuel
and responds faster to changes in
venturi vacuum. It also atomizes
more readily tha-n raw fuel. The fuel
an. i air continue up the main well
tube past another air bleed which
also acts as a vent to prevent siphoning when the engine is shut down.
The fuel is discharged into the boost
er venturi where it is atomized and
mixed with air flowing through the
carburettor.
The throttle plate controls the
amount of the fuel-air mixture admi_tted to the intake manifold, regulatmg the speed and power output of
the engine.
A balance tube is located in each
barrel directly below the booster venturi. When decelerating, the balance
tube siphons off any excess fuel droplets remaining around the edge of the
booster venturi and discharges the
droplets into the equalizing slots in
the base of the carburetor where they
are mixed with the idle fuel. The
balance tube also acts as an addi-
EJ
<;::J
AIR
<;:::J
FUEL- AIR
. . FUEL
<II)Im
VACUUM
POWER VALVE VACUUM PICK-UP
82603-A
FIG. 8-Power Fuel System

tiona) air bleed during the idle fuel
system operation.
POWER FUEL SYSTEM

During periods of increased road
loads or high speed operation, the
fuel-air ratio must be increased for
added power. The added fuel required during this period is supplied
by the power fuel system (Fig. 8).
The power fuel system is controlled by the intake manifold vacuum.
Manifold vacuum is transmitted
from an opening in the base of the
main body, through a passage in the
main body and power valve chamber
to the power valve diaphragm. The
manifold vacuum, acting on the power valve at idle speed or normal road
load conditions, is great enough to

hold the power valve diaphragm
down, overcoming the tension of the
spring on the valve stem and holding
the valve closed. When high power
operation places a greater load on
the engine and manifold vacuum
drops below a predetermined value,
the spring opens the power valve.
Fuel from the fuel bowl flows
through the power valve and into
passages leading to the maio fuel
well. Here the fuel is added to the
fuel from the main fuel system, en
riching the mixture.
As engine power demands are re
duced, manifold vacuum increases.
The increased vacuum overcomes the
tension of the valve_stem spring and
closes the power valve.
CARBU!tETTOR ADJUSTMENTS
The adjustments described and

illu strated in this part should be
performed JS required to retain the desired
engine performance characteristics. Refer
to the specifications whenever carburettor
adjustments are made.
IDLE SPEED AND FUEL
MIXTURE
All carburettors are equipped with idle

fuel mixture adjusting limiters. The
limiters control the maximum idle richness
Jnd help prevent unauthorized persons
from making overly ri<.:h idle adjustment.
The plastic idle limiter cap is installed
on the head of the idle fuel mixture
adjusting screws), (Fig. 9). Any adjustment made on carburettors having
this type of limiter must be within the
runge of the idle adjusting limiter. Under

no circumstances are the idle adjusting
limiters or the limiter stops on the
carburettor to be mutilated or deformed to
render the limiters inoperative On the
Motorcraft Model 2100-D 2-V carburettor,
the power valve cover must be installed
with the limiter stops on the cover in
position to provide a positive stop for tabs
on the idle adjusting limiters (Fig. 9).

A satisfactory idle should be
obtainable within the range of the idle
adjusting limiters, if all other engine
systems
are
operating
within
specifications.
At pre-delivery, follow the Normal
Idle Fuel Settings for both Engine Off and
Engine On and in Step 1 of Additional
Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures.
Other fuel system adjustments should not
be required at pre-delivery service.
Following are the normal procedures
necessary to properly adjust the engine
idle speed and fuel mixture. The specific
operations should be followed in the
sequence given whenever the idle speed or
idle full adjustments are made.
In isolated cases, a satisfactory idle
condition may not be achieved by
performing' the normal procedures. If this
occurs, refer to Additional Idle Speed and
Fuel Mixture Procedures.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL
SETTINGS - ENGINE OFF
1. Set the idle fuel mixture screw(s)
and
limiter
cap(s)
to
the
full-counterclockwise position of the
limiter cap(s).
2. Back off the curb idle speed
adjusting screw (Fig. 10) until the throttle
plate(s) seat in the throttle bore(s}.
3. Be sure the dashpot or solenoid
throttle positioner (if so equipped) is not
interfering with the throttle lever (Fig. 11).
It may be necessary to loosen the
dashpot or solenoid to allow the throttle
plate(s) to seat in the throttle bore(s).
4. Turn the idle speed adjusting
screw inward until it just makes contact
with the screw stop on the thottle shaft
and lever assembly. Then, turn the screw
inward I 1/2 turns to establish a
preliminary idle speed adjustment (Fig. I 0).
5. Set the parking brake while
making
idle
mixture
and
speed
adjustments.
LIMITER STOPS
83114-A
FIG. 9- Motorcraft Modei21DO-D 2-V Idle

Fuel Mixture Adjusting Limiters
Stops-Bottom
10-39
NORMAL IDLE FUEL

SETTINGS - ENGINE ON
1. The engine and underhood
temperatures must be stabilized before
idle adjustments are made. Run the engine
a minimum of 20 minutes at 1500rpm.
This can be done by pos1t10mng the fast

idle screw or cam follower on the kickdown step of the fast idle cam (Fig. 12).
2. Check the initial ignition timing
and the di;tributor advance. Use an
accurate-reading tachometer and timing
light when checking the initial ignition
timing and idle fuel mixture and speed.
3. On vehicles with a manual-shift
transmission, the idle setting must be
made only when the transmission is in
Neutral.
On vehicles with an automatic
transmisSion, the idle setting is made with
the transmission selector lever in the Drive
range.
FIG. 10- Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
4. Be sure the choke plate is in the

full-open position.
5. Turn the headlights on high beam
to place the alternator under a load
condition in order to properly adjust to
the specified engine idle speed.
6. The final idle speed adjustment is
made with the air conditioner (if
equipped) turned ON.
7. Adjust the engine curb idle rpm
to specifications. The tachometer reading
(rpm) must be taken with the air cleaner
installed. On vehicles with less than 50
miles, ~et the idle speed approximately 25
rpm below specifications to allow for an
rpm increase as the engine loosens up in
the first 100 miles of driving.
If it is not possible to adjust the idle
speed with the air cleaner installed;
remove it, make the adjustment, then
replace the air cleaner and check again for
the specified rpm.
Manual transmission vehicles may be
fitted with a solenoid throttle positioner.
However this is not connected on these
engines and must be adjusted so as not to
affect the engine idle speed. Idle speed
adjustment is to be made on the normal
throttle stop screw.
8. Turn the idle mixture adjusting
screw(s) inward an equal amount to obtain
the smoothest idle possible within the
OASHPOT LOCKNUT
83134 - A
FIG.tt- Dashpot - Typical Installation
range of the idle limiter(s}.

Check for idle smoothness only with
the air cleaner installed.
ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED
AND FUEL MIXTURE
PROCEDURES
If satisfactory idle condition is not
obtained after performing the preceding
normal idle fuel settings, additional checks
of engine systems must be performed.
1. The following items should be
checked and, if required, corrected.
a. Vacuum leaks
b. Ignition system wiring continuity
c. Spark plugs
d. Distributor breaker point dwell
angle
e. Distributor point condition
f. Initial ignition timing
In certain instances, it may be possible
that the idle condition is not as good as
normally expected. It is suggested that the
customer with a new vehicle be advised
that the vehicle be driven 50 to I 00 miles.
Then, when the engine friction has been
reduced, the idle condition should be
improved. If, after the break-in period, the
idle condition is believed to be
unsatisfactory, re-adjust the engine idle
speed to specification and observe for a
satisfactory idle.
2. If the idle condition is not
improved after the items in Step 1 have
been checked, perform the following
engine mechanical checks:
a. Fuel Level
b. Crankcase ventilation system
c. Valve clearance (using the
collapsed tappet method for hydraulic
valves)
d. Engine compression
3. After verification of all engine
systems has been made. there may be
isolated cases where a satisfactory idle
condition has not been obtained, due
possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture. If this
condition is encountered, refer to the
following operation REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION OF IDLE LIMITER
CAPS.
10-40
OF IDLE LIMITER CAPS
Should the idle limiter caps need
replacement because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment of idle mixture to
meet emission level requirements the
following procedure must be adhered to
as the 'thermal conductivity' type of gas
analyzer found in most service shops is not
accurate enough to give the required carbon
monoxide readings.
2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and
carefully pry apart and remove it from
the idle adjustment screw.
the engine.
6. Run the engine until the normal
screws to give the best quality idle at 20
R.P.M. above the specified speed.
B. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture
screws an equal amount on each screw by
turning in a clockwise direction until the
engine R.P.M. drops to the specified idle
speed.
l 0. Install the blue plastic service limiter cap.
Use care not to turn the idle mixture
when installing the cap. Position the cap
so that it is in the maximum counterclockwise position with the tab of the
limiter against the stop on the carburetor.
The idle mixture screw will then be at
the maximum allowable outward or rich
setting. To install the service limiter cap,
use a straight forward push with thumb
pressure or a 3/8" rod.
11. Replace the air cleaner and recheck
screws were not accidently rotated while
fitting the limiter caps.
engine.
FAST IDLE
ADJUSTMENT
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 12)

contacts one edge of the fast idle cam.
The cam permits a faster engine idle
speed for smoother running when the
engine is cold during choke operation. As
the choke plate is moved through its range
of travel from the closed to the open
position, the fast idle cam pick-up lever
rotates the fast idle cam. Each position on
the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm
as engine temperature rises and choking is
reduced.

Make certain the curb idle speed and
mixture are adjusted to specification
before attempting to set the fast idle
speed.
1. With
the engine
operating
temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner
removed and the tachometer attached,
manually rotate the fast idle cam until the
fast idle adjusting screw rests on the
specified step on the cam.
2. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw
inward or outward as required to obtain
the specified fast idle rpm.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT
1. With the engine idle speed and

mixture properly adjusted, and the engine
at normal operating temperature, loosen
the anti-stall dashpot Jock nut.
2. Hold the throttle in the closed
position and depress the plunger with a
screwdriver blade. Measure the clearance
between the throttle lever and the plunger
tip. Turn the anti-stall dashpot in a
direction to provide the specified
clearance between the tip of the plunger
and the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut
to secure the adjustment.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
THERMOSTATIC SPRING
HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The automatic choke has an

adjustment to control its reaction to
engine temperature. By loosening the
clamp screws that retain the thermostatic
spring housing to the choke housing.
The spring housing can be turned to
alter the adjustment. Refer to the
specifications for the proper setting.
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly,
heater hose and mounting bracket (if so
equipped) from the carburettor.
2. Loosen the thermostatic spring
housing clamp retaining screws. Set the
spring housing to the specified index mark
and tighten the clamp retaining screws.
3. If other carburettor adjustments
are not required, install the heater hose
and mounting bracket (if so equipped) and
the air cleaner assembly on the carburettor.
ACCELERATING PUMP
STROKE ADJUSTMENT
The stroke should not be changed
from the specified setting.
If the pump stroke has been changed
from the specified setting refer to the
following instructions to correct the
stroke to specifications.
The primary throttle shaft lever
(overtravel lever) has 4 holes and the
accelerating pump link has 4 holes (Fig.
13) to control the accelerating pump
FAST IDLE CAM

B2S9S-A
FIG.12- Fast ldllt Speed AdjustmentModel 2100-D, 2 V
stroke.
The accelerating pump operating rod
should be in the specified hole in the
overtravellever and the inboard hole (hole
closets to the pump plunger) in the
accelerating pump link (Fig. 13).
1. To release the rod from the
retaining clip, press the tab end of the clip
toward the rod; then, at the same time,
press the rod away from the clip until it is
disengaged.
2. Position the clip over the
specified hole in the overtravel lever. Press
the ends of the clip together and insert the
operating rod through the clip and the
overtravel lever. Release the clip to engage
the rod.
CHOKEPLATEPULLDOWN
AND FAST IDLE CAM
CLEARANCE
Choke Plate Pulldown
1. Remove the air cleaner,Page lo-67.

2. With the engine at normal
operating temperature, loosen the choke
thermostatic spring housing retainer
screws and set the housing 90 degrees in
the rich direction.
3. Disconnect and remove the choke
heat tube from the choke housing
outward one full turn.
5. Start the engine, then check for
the specified clearance between the lower
edge of the choke plate and the air horn
wall (Fig. 14).
specifications, turn the diaphragm stop
screw (located on the underside of the
choke diaphragm housing) clockwise to
decrease or counterclockwise to increase
the clearance.
10-41
4. Set the choke thermo static spring

housing to specifications. Adjust the
anti-stall dashpo t, idle speed and fuel
mixture.
OVERTRAVEL
LEVER
FAST
ADJUSTING
TWO- PIECE FAST IDLE LEVER
FOR 351-C ENGINE
V1261-A
FIG. 15- Fast Idle Levers Used on the

Motorcraft 2100-D 2-V Carburetor
FUEL LEVEL FLOAT

ADJUSTMENT - DRY
V1507 - B
FIG. 13 Accelerator Pump Stroke-Model 2100 Carburetor
The dry float adjustment is a

preliminary fuel level adjustment only.
The final adjustment (Fuel Level Float
Adjustment - Wet) must be made after
the carburettor is mounted on the engine.
DRILL OR GA UGE OF
SPECIFIED CLEARANCE
7. Connect the choke heat tube and

set the choke thermostatic spring housing
to specifications. Adjust the fast idle speed
to specifications.
Fast Idle Cam Clearance

I. Loosen the choke thermostatic
spring housing retainer screws and set the
housing 90 degrees in the rich direction.
2. Position the fast idle speed screw
at the kickdown step of the fast idle cam
The kickdown step is identified by a V
stamped on the cam (Fig. 15).
On the 351-C engine, a two-piece fast
idle lever is used to provide clearance
between the lever and manifold, and a
tang on the top lever will align with the V
mark on the cam (Fig. 15).
3. Be sure the cam is at the

kickdown position while checking or
adjusting the fast idle cam clearance.
Check for the specified clearance
between the lower edge of the choke plate
and the air horn wall. To adjust the
clearance, turn the fast idle cam clearance
adjusting screw clockwise to increase and
counterclockwise
to
decrease
the
clearance.
FAS T IDL E
ADJUS T ING SC RE W
V1202-A
FIG. 14- Choke Plate Pul/down Clearance

- Modei2100-D 2-V Carburetor
10-42
With the air born removed, the float

raised and the fuel inlet needle seated,
check the distance between the top
surface of the main body (psket removed)
and the top surface of the float for
conformance to specifications. Depress the
float tab to seat the fuel inlet needle. Take
the measurement near the center of the
float at a point 1/8 inch from the free end
of the float.
If the cardboard float g;tu8t is used,
place the puge in t ..e comer of the
enlarged end section of the fuel bowl (Fig.
16). The gauge should touch the float near
the end, but not on the end radius.
If necessary, bend the tab on the float
to bring the setting within the specified
limits. This should provide the proper
preliminary fuel level setting.
The measurement must be made at least

1/4 inch away from any vertical surface to
assure an accurate reading, because the
surface of the fuel is concave (higher at
the edges than in the centre). Care must be
exercised to measure the fuel level at the
point of contact with the float with the
fuel. Refer to the specification for the
correct fuel level (wet) setting.
5. If any adjustment is required,
stop the engine to minimize the hazard of
the fire due to fuel spray when the float
setting is disturbed. To adjust the fuel
level, bend the float tab (contacting the
fuel inlet valve) upward in relation to the
original position to raise the fuel level, and
downward to lower it. Each time an
adjustment is made to the float tab to
alter the fuel level, the engine must be
started and permitted to idle for a few
minutes to stabilize the fuel level. Check
the fuel level after each adjustment until
the specified level is achieved.
6. Install a new air horn gasket, the
air horn assembly, carburettor identification tag and the retaining screws. Tighten
the retaining screws. Install the air cleaner
anchor screw and tighten to the specified
torque.
7. Check the idle fuel mixture, idle
speed adjustments and the carburettor
dashpot adjustment (if so equipped).
Adjust the carburettor as required.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove the automatic choke

plate operating rod to choke lever retainer.
4. Remove the air horn retaining
screws and lock washers, and the carburettor identification tag. Remove the
air horn gasket.
INSTAlLATION
I. Install a new air horn to main
body gasket. Make sure all holes in the
new gasket have been properly punched
and that no foreign material has adhered
to the gasket.
2. Position the air hom on the main
body and gasket so that the choke plate
operating rod fits into the opening in the
choke housing lever. Install the choke
plate rod retainer.
3. Install the air horn retaining
screws and lock washers and the
identification tag. Install the air cleaner
anchor screw, and tighten to the specified
torque.
4. Connect the automatic choke
clean air tube to the carburettor.
5. Adjust the idle fuel mixture and
idle speed and the dashpot as outlined in
this section.
6. Install the carburettor air cleaner
assembly. (Page 1 67 )
o-
FLOAT, NEEDLE VALVE AND

SEAT. INLET SCREEN OR
MAIN JETS
REMOVAL
TOUCH AT TH IS POINT
1. Remove the carburettor air horn

to main body gasket by following the
procedure under Air Horn to Main Body
Gasket Removal.
2. With the use of a screwdriver, pry
the float shaft retainer(s) from the fuel
inlet seat. Remove the float, float shaft
retainer and fuel inlet needle assembly.
3. If required, remove the fuel inlet
needle seat, filter screen and the main jets
with a jet wrench. Be sure the correct
(specified) jets are installed.
82590-A
FIG. 16 - Fuel Level Float Adjustment Dry
FUEL LEVEL FLOAT

ADJUSTMENT- WET
I. ' 'peta te the engine to normalize

engine te nperatures, and place the vehicle
on a flat surface as near level as possible.
Stop the engine.
2. Remove the carburettor air cleaner
assembly and anchor screw, if they have
not been previously removed. Page 10.
INSTALLATION
67
screws and the carlmrettor identification
tag. Temporarily place the air horn and
gasket in position on the carburertor main
body and start the engine. Let the engine
idle for a few minutes, then rotate the air
horn out of the way and remove the air
horn gasket to provide access to the float
assembly.
4. While the engine is idling, use a
standard depth scale to measure the
vertical distance from the top machined
surface of the carburet! or main body to the
level of the fuel in the fuel bowl (Fig. 17).
FtG. 17 - Fuel Level Float AdjustmentWet
CARBURmOR REPAIRS
AIR HORN TO
MAIN BODY GASKET
REMOVAL
I. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the air cleaner anchor ~crew .
2. Disconnect the automatic choke
clean air tube at the carburettor.
I. If R'quired , install the fuel inlet

filter in the inlet valve seat bore. Install
the valve seat and gasket. Install the fuel
inlet needle valve.
2. Slide the float shaft into the float
lever. Position the float shaft retainer on
the float shaft.
3. Insert the float assembly into the
fuel bowl and hook the float lever tab
under the fuel inlet needle clip. Insert the
float shaft into the guides at the sides of
the fuel bowl.
4. With the use of a screwdriver,
position the float shaft retainer on the

groove of the fuel inlet needle seat.
5. Refer to Float Adjustment - Dry,
and perform a dry float fuel level
adjustment on the float.
6. Install the carburettor air horn and
gasket and related parts. Refer to Air Horn
to Main Body Gasket Replacement.
7. Refer to Fuel Level Float
Adjustment - Wet, and perform the wet
fuel level adjustment procedures.
engine idle speed.
ACCELERATING PUMP
DIAPHRAGM AND/OR
ELASTOMER VALVE
and place the cover and diaphragm

assembly in position on the return spring
and ~in body. The large end of the
spring must face the Elastomer Yalve.
~DIAPHRAGM
-,.
LINK
.__PIN
.,.__COVER
l. Remove the carburettor air horn

to main body gasket following the
procedure under Air Horn to Main Body
Gasket Removal.
2. Remove the ac;:celerating pump
operating rod retainer. To release the rod
from the retainer, press the tab ends of the
clip together, then, at the same time, press
the rod away from the clip until it is
disengaged. Remove the rod. Remove the
accelerating pump cover, diaphragm
assembly and spring.
3. If inspection proves it necessary
to remove the Elastomer valve, grasp it
firmly and pull it out. If the Elastomer
valve tip broke off during removal, be sure
to remove the tip from the fuel bowl. An
Elastomer valve must be replaced
whenever it is removed from the main
body.
INSTALLATION
l. If the Elastomer valve was
removed, lubricate the tip of a new valve
and insert the tip into the accelerator
pump cavity. Using needle nosed pliers,
reach into the fuel bowl and grasp the
valve tip. Pull the valve in until it seats,
and cut off the tip forward of the retainer
shoulder. Remove the tip from the bowl.
2. Position the new accelerating
pump diaphragm assembly to the cover
EJ
CHOKE DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
Remove the air cleaner.
Remove the diaphragm cover
attaching screws, then lift the cover,
diaphragm assembly and spring from the
air hom (Fig. 18). It will not be necessary
to remove the diaphragm stop screw on
the underside of the air hom.
3. Remove the diaphragm rod from
the end of the lever.
l.
2.
INSTALLATION
.....i...._
~ASSEMBLY
DIAPHRAGM
REMOVAL
10-43
l. Position the diaphragm spring in

the air horn. Place the cover on top of the
diaphragm, then attach the diaphragm rod
to the end of the lever.
2. Install the cover attaching screws
and tighten to the specified torque.
3. Set the choke plate pulldown and
fast idle cam clearance.
4. Tighten the air cleaner anchor
screw to the specified torque to help
provide a vacuum seal between the air
hom and main body. The choke diaphragm vacuum passage is in the rear
portion of the carburettor.
POWER VALVE TEST
FIG. 18- Choke Diaphragm Assembly
Install the cover screws finger-tight. Push

the accelerating pump plunger the full
length of travel and tighten the cover
screws.
3. Position the accelerating pump
operating rod in the inboard hole (hole
closest to the pump plunger).
4. Adjust the accelerating pump
stroke to specification.
5. Install the carburettor air horn and
gasket. Refer to the Air Horn to Main
Body Gasket Replacement.
A power valve must not be replaced

unless it is leaking sufficiently to cause an
unadjustable rough engine idle condition.
Fuel accumulation in the power valve
cover does not necessarily indicate a
damaged power valve. Fuel vapors will be
drawn into the vacuum side of the power
valve and condense during periods of
deceleration. Leakage in the power valve
area can be caused by an improperly
tightened cover or damaged gaskets. Any
gasket sealing deficiencies must be
corrected before the power valve is
replaced.
If power valve leakage is suspected,
carry out test procedure as detailed in
(Page 10-6)
CARBURETTOR REMOVAL
Flooding, stumble on acceleration and
other performance complaints are in many
instances, caused by the presence of dirt,
water or other foreign matter in the
carburettor. To aid in diagnosing the cause
of complaint, the carburettor should be
carefully removed from the engine
without removing the fuel from the bowls.
The contents of the bowls may then be
examined for contamination as the
carburettor is disassembled.
l. Remove the air cleaner as detailed
on page 10-67. Remove the heater hose
from the choke shield (if so equipped).

2. Remove the throttle cable or rod
from the throttle lever. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum line, in-line fuel filter
and the choke heat tube at the carburettor.
3. Disconnect the choke clean air
tube from the air horn.
4. Remove the carburettor retaining
nuts; then remove the carburettor. Remove the carburettor mounting gasket,
spacer (if equipped) and lower gasket,
from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces of the spacer and carburettor.
Place the spacer between two new gaskets
and position the spacer and gaskets on the
intake manifold. Position the carburettor
on the spacer and gasket and secure it with
the retaining lockwashers and nuts. To
prevent leakage, distortion or damage to
the carburettor body flange, snug the nuts;
then, alternately tighten each nut in a
criss-cross pattern to the specified torque.
10-44
2. Connect the in-line fuel filter
throttle cable, choke heat tube, and
distributor vacuum line. Position the
heater hose behind the choke shield.
3. Connect the choke clear air tube
to the air horn.
4. Adjust the engine idle speed, the
idle fuel mixture, anti-stall dashpot (if so
equipped) and the accelerating pump
stroke (if required). Install the air cleaner.
DISASSEMBLY
To facilitate working on the carburettor and to prevent damage to the
throttle plates, install carburettor legs on
the base. If legs are unavailable, install 4
bolts (about 2 I /4 inches long of the
correct diameter) and 8 nuts on the
carburettor base.
component parts of the various assemblies
to facilitate cleaning, inspection and
assembly.
overhauling the carburettor. However,
certain components of the carburettor may
be serviced without a complete disassembly of the entire unit. For a complete carburettor overhaul, follow all
of the steps. to partially overhaul a
carburettor or to install a new gasket kit
follow only the applicable steps.
AIR HORN
1.
screw.
rod from the air horn. Slide the plastic

dust seal out of the air horn.
5. Remove the choke diaphragm
assembly (Fig. 18).
choke plate, remove the staking marks on
the choke plate retaining screws and
remove the screws. Remove the choke
plate by sliding it out of the shaft from
the top of the air horn. Slide the choke
shaft out of the air horn .
If the tips of the choke plate screws
are flared excessively, file off the flared
portion to prevent damage to the threads
in the shaft.
FLOAT HINGE
82605-A
FIG. 20- Float Assembly
Remove the air cleaner anchor
2. Remove the automatic choke

control rod retainer.
screws, lock washers and the carburettor
identification tag. Remove the air horn
and air horn gasket.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
1. Remove the fast idle cam retainer

(Fig. 19).
2. Remove the thermostatic choke
spring housing retaining screws and
remove the clamp, housing and gasket.
3. Remove the choke housing
assembly retaining screws. If the air horn
was not previously removed, remove the
choke control rod retainer. Remove the
choke housing assembly, gasket and fast
idle cam and rod from the fast idle cam
lever.
4. Remove the choke lever retaining
screw and washer. Remove the choke lever
and fast idle cam lever from the choke
housing.
MAIN BODY
FAST IDLE CAM
82621-A
FIG. 19 -Fast Idle Cam and Fast Idle Lever
4. Remove the choke control rod by

loosening the screw that secures the choke
shaft lever to the choke shaft. Remove the
1. With the use of a screwdriver, pry

the float shaft retainer from the fuel inlet
seal (Figs. 20 and 21). Remove the float
float slpft retainer and fuel inlet needle
assembly. Remove the retainer and float
snaft from the float lever.
2. Remove the fuel inlet needle,
seat, filter screen, and the main jets with a
jet wrench.
3. Remove the booster venturi screw
(accelerator
pump
di>charge) ,
air
FIG. 21 -Float Shaft Retainer Removal

or Installation
distribution plate, booster venturi and

gasket. Invert the main body and let the
a.:celerating pump discharge weight and
ball fall into the hand.
4. Remove the accelerator pump
operating rod from the over-travel lever
and the retainer. To release the operating
rod from the over-travel lever retainer,
press the ends of the retainer together;
then, at the same time, press the rod away
from the retainer until it is disengaged.
Remove the rod and retainer.
5. Remove the accelerating pump
cover retaining screws. Remove the
accelerating pump cover, diaphragm
assembly and spring (Fig. 22).
Elastomer valve, grasp it firmly and pull it
out. If the Elastomer valve tip broke off
during removal, be sure to remove the tip
from the fuel bowl. An Elastomer valve
must be replaced whenever it has been
removed from the carburettor.
7. Invert the main body and remove
the power valve cover and the gasket.
Remove the power valve with a box
wrench or socket wrench (Fig. 23).
Remove the power valve gasket. Discard
the gasket.
8. Remove the idle fuel mixture
adjusting screws (needles) and the springs.
Remove the limiters from the adjusting
screws.
9. If necessary, remove the nut and
washer securing the fast idle adjusting
lever assembly to the throttle shaft, and
remove the lever assembly. If necessary,
remove the idle screw and the retainer
from the fast idle adjusting lever.
10. Remove the anti-stall dashpot or
solenoid (if so equipped).
throttle plates, lightly scribe the throttle
plates along the throttle shaft, and mark
each plate and its corresponding bore with
a number or letter for proper installation
(Fig. 24).
12. Slide the throttle shaft out of the
main body.
Clean and inspect the carburettor
component
parts as described in
Page 10-13.

ASSEMBLY
Make sure all holes in the new gaskets

have been properly punched and that no
gaskets. Make sure the accelerating pump
diaphragm is not torn or cut.
The Motorcraft Model 2100-D 2-V
carburettor assembly is shown in Fig. 25.
PUMP COVER AND L EVER

RETURN SPRING
,~
MAIN BODY
DIAPHRAGM
1. Slide the throttle shaft assembly

into the main body.
2. Refer to the lines scribed on the
throttle plates and install the throttle
plates in their proper location with the
screws snug, but not tight.
3. Close the throttle plates. Invert
the main body, and hold it up to the light.
Little or no light should show between the
throttle plates and the throttle bores. Tap
the plates lightly with a screwdriver handle
to seat them. Hold the throttle plates
closed and tighten and stake the retaining
screws. When staking the screws, support
the shaft and plate on a block of wood or
a metal bar to prevent bending of the
shaft.
4. If necessary, install the fast idle
screw pin and the screw on the fast idle
adjusting lever.
5. Install the anti-stall dashpot, if so
equipped.
6. If the fast idle lever was removed,
place the fast idle adjusting lever assembly
on the throttle shaft and install the
retaining washer and nut.
7. If the Elastomer valve was
removed, lubricate the tip of a new
Elastomer valve and insert the tip into the
accelerator pump cavity centre hole. Using
a pair of needle nosed pliers, reach in to
the fuel bowl and grasp the valve tip. Pull
the valve in until it seats in the pump
cavity wall and cut off the tip forward of
the retaining shoulder. Remove the tip
from the bowl.
8. Install the accelerating pump
diaphragm return spring on the boss in the
chamber (Fig. 22). Insert the diaphragm
assembly in the cover and place the cover
and diaphragm assembly into position on
the main body. Install the cover screws.
9. Insert the accelerating pump
operating rod into the inboard hole of the
accelerating pump actuating lever. Position
the accelerating pump operating rod
retainer over the specified hole in the
over-travel lever, Press the ends of the
retainer together ; then, at the same time,
insert the operating rod through the
retainer and the hole in the over-travel
lever. Release the ends of the retainer to
secure the rod.
10. Invert the main body. Install the
power valve (enrichment valve) and new
V1296-A
FIG. 22- Accelerating Pump Assembly
10-45
14. Slide the float shaft into the float

lever (Fig. 20). Position the float shaft
retainer on the float shaft.
15 . Insert the float assembly into the
fuel bowl and hook the float lever tab
under the fuel inlet needle assembly.
Insert the float shaft into its guides at the
sides of the fuel bowl.
16. With the use of a screwdriver,
position the float shaft retainer in the
groove on the fuel inlet needle seat (Fig.
21 ). Check the float setting.
17 . Drop the accelerating pump
discharge ball in to the passage in the main
body. Seat the ball with a brass drift and a
light hammer. Make sure the ball is free in
the bore. Drop the accelerating pump
discharge weight on top of the ball.
Position the new booster venturi gasket
and the booster venturi in the main body.
Install the air distribution plate and the
accelerator pump discharge screw. Tighten
the screw.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
FIG. 23- Power Valve Removal or

Installation
SCRIBE LINES AND

IDENTIFICATION MARKS
81363-8
FIG. 24 - Throttle Plate Removal
gasket with a wrench (Fig. 23). Tighten

the valve securely.
11. Install the idle mixture adjusting
screws (needles) and springs (Fig. 25).
Turn the needles in gently with the fingers
until they just touch the seat, then back
them off 1 1/2 turns for a preliminary idle
fuel mixture adjustment. Do not install
the idle mixture limiters at this time.
Install the power valve cover and new
gasket. The power valve cover must be
installed with the limiter stops on the
cover in position to provide a positive stop
for the tabs on the idle adjusting limiters.
12. Install the main jets and the fuel
inlet seat, filter screen, and new gasket. Be
sure the correct jets are installed.
13. Install the fuel inlet needle
assembly in the fuel 'inlet seat. Fuel inlet
needles and seats are matched assemblies.
Be sure the correct needle and seat are
assembled together.
1. Position the fast idle cam lever on

the thermo ~ tatic choke shaft and lever
assembly. The bottom of the fast idle cam
lever adjusting screw must rest against the
tang on the choke lever. Insert the choke
lever into the rear of the choke housing.
Position the choke lever so that the hole in
the lever is to the left side of the choke
housing.
2. Install the fast idle cam rod on
the fast idle cam lever. Place the fast idle
cam on the fast idle cam rod and install
the retainer. Place the choke housing
vacuum pick-up port to main body gasket
on the choke housing on the main body.
Position the gasket, and install the choke
housing retaining screws. Install the fast
idle cam retainer. Install the thermostatic
spring housing.
AIR HORN
Refer to Fig. 25 for the correct
location of the parts.
1. If the choke plate shaft was
removed, position the shaft in the air
horn, then install the choke plate rod on
the end of the choke shaft.
2. If the choke plate was removed,
insert the choke plate into the choke plate
shaft. Install the choke plate screws snug,
but not tight. Check for proper plate fit,
binding in the air horn and free rotation of
the shaft by moving the plate from the
closed position to the open position. If
necessary, remove the choke plate and
grind or file the plate edge where it is
binding or scraping on the air horn wall. If
the choke plate and shaft moves freely,
tighten the choke plate screws while
holding the choke in the fully closed
position. Stake the screws. When staking
10-46
the screws, support shaft and plate on a
block of wood or a metal bar to prevent
bending of the shaft.
3. Position the main body gasket
and the choke 10d plastic seal on the main
body. Position the air horn on the main
body and gasket so that the choke plate
rod fits through the seal and the opening
in the main body.
GROUP
10-FUEL SYSTEM
4. Insert the end of the choke plate

rod into the automatic choke lever. Install
the air horn retaining screws and the
carburetor identification tag. Tighten the
retaining screws. Install the choke pia te
rod retainer. Install the air cleaner anchor
screw. Tighten the air cleaner anchor
screw to the specified torque.
5. Perform the automatic choke

plate clearance adjustment after the
carburettor has been installed on the
vehicle. Refer to Page 10.40.
6. After the specified air-fuel is

obtained, install the idle mix lure limiter
caps.
~ DIAPHRAGM~
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LINK
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DISCHAR~7E13~~-~L CHECK
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BOOSTER VENTURI
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-9B511
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VENTURI
ASSEMBLY
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MAIN BODY-9512
RETURN SPRING-9636
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DASHPOT-9B549
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DASH POT BRACKET -9B550

NUT -33923-S
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V11J7.B
10-48
PART
10-5
MOTOR CRAFT MODEL 4300 4-V CARBURETTOR
Section
1. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Description ... ... ... ... ...
Operations ... .. . ... ... ...
Fuel Inlet System
Idle Fuel Supply System
Primary Main Fuel Metering System
Accelerating Pump System ... .. . ...
Power Fuel Supply System... .. . ...
Seco ndary Main Fuel Metering System
Automatic Choke System ........... .
2. IN-CA R ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
Idle Speed Adju stment ........ .
Idle Limiter Cap Replacement ... ... ...
Section
3. MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
Removal ...
Disassembly ... ...
Air Horn ... .. .
Main Body
Throttle Body ..
Assembly ... ..... .
Throttle Body
Air Horn ..... .
Air Horn to Main Body ...
Page
10-48
10-48
10-50
10-50
10-50
10-51
10-51
10-52
10-52
10-53
10-54
10-55
10-55
Page
10-59
10-59
10-59
10-59
10-60
10-60
10-60
10-60
10-60
10-62
DESCRIPTION
The Motorcraft Model 4300 4-V
Carburettor (Figs, 1, 2 and 3) is a
separately
cast
design
three-pie ce ,
consisting of the air horn, main body and
throttle body.
A cas t-in centre fuel inlet has
provision for a supplementary fuel inlet
system. The fuel bowl is vented by an
internal balance vent.
The hot idle compensator shown in
some illustrations is not fitted when this
carburetor is fitted to the Cleveland
engine.
The main (primary) fuel system has
booster-type venturis cast integral with the
air horn and the main venturis are cast
integral with the main body. The
secondary throttle plates are mechanically
operated from the primary linkage. Air
valve plates are located above the
secondary main ven turis and an integral
dampens
sudden
hydraulic dashpot
movement of the air valve plates to help
prevent flutter and erractic engine
operation. A single fuel bowl supplies both
the primary and secondary fuel systems.
Pontoon-type floats are used to help
cornering and hill climbing capability. The
accelerating pump is of the piston -type,
located in the fuel bowl.
HOT IDLE COMPENSATOR

THUNDERRIRD. CONTI N ENTAL MARK Ill,
AND LINCOLN CONTINENTAL ONLYI
PRIMARY
THROTTLE
SH.:. FT
FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTI NG SC REW
VI268. A
FIG. 1- Matorcraft Mode/4300 4-V Carburetor

-Right Rear 3/4 View
10-49
THROTTLE SHAFT
AND LEVER
V 1149-A
F /G. 2 - Model 4300 4 V Carburetor - Typical

-Left Front 3/4 View
FUEL INLET
CHOKE
FAST IDLE CAM

ADJUSTING SCREW
CHOKE
HCXJSING
LEVER
SECONDARY
AIR VALVE
DASH PDT
1'297-A
FIG. 3- Mode/4300 4- V Carburetor

- Top View - Typical.
10-50
SPECIFIED
FLOAT
SPECIFIED
FLOAT
LEVEL
_j
FLOAT
DROPS
0 AIR
II FUEL
Fig. 4-Fuel Inlet System

OPERATION
The Model 4300 4-V Carburet tor is
designed to supply a calibrated fuelair mixture to a V -8 engine. In
normal operation, each of the primary venturis supplies all the fuel-air
mixture required by four cylinders.
The idle, main metering, power fuel
supply, accelerating pump and choke
systems go into operation automatically to provide the proper richness
or leanness of the mixture for the
operating condition.
Operation of the fuel metering systems is controlled by the accelerator
linkage, throttle position and engine
speed. The choke system is controlled
by the throttle position and the temperature of the engine exhaust manifold.
FUEL INLET SYSTEM

Correct calibration of the carburettor depends on fuel being available
at a specific level in the fuel bowl. If
the fuel level is low, the metering
systems deliver Jean mixtures; if the
level is high, mixtures are rich. The
function of the fuel inlet system is
to admit gasoline into the fuel bowl
and maintain the soecified level.
Fig. 4 shows the construction and
operation of the fuel inlet system.
The fuel inlet is constantly charged
with fuel under pressure from the
fuel pump. This fuel enters the bowl
through the fuel inlet valve, which is
permitted to open when the float
lowers.
The float moves up-and-down with
the fuel level. When enough fuel has
entered to fill the bowl to the correct
level, the float is high enough for the
AIR
FUEL
Fig. 5-Auxiliary Fuel Valve Operation

float lever to push the inlet valve
(needle) against its seat. Flow of the
fuel into the bowl then is blocked
until some fuel is used and the float
lowers again.
Auxiliary Fuel Inlet Valve
An auxiliary fuel inlet valve is built
into this system to supplement the
main or primary fuel inlet valve when
engine fuel requirements are high.
The main or primary fuel inlet
valve controls small fuel flows precisely because of its small area of
opening and relatively high valve-toseat sealing pressure. When large
fuel flows are required, as in high
engine speeds and heavy-load conditions, the fuel level and float height
drop, thereby opening the auxiliary
valve (Fig. 5) in addition to the main
or primary fuel inlet valve. The total
combined fuel valve opening is larger
than the previous single valve that
has been used in former Ford carburetors.
In addition to supplying fuel for
high engine load conditions, the large
combined valve opening also purges
the carburettor-to-fuel rump line,
after a hot restart, of fue vapor that
forms during a hot soak condition.
Venting the Bowl
Two stand pipes beside the air horn
(Fi~. 4) vent the bowl to the fresh air
inlet. The stand pipes are open to the
carburetor intake air after the air
passes through the air cleaner. Thus,
the howl pressure and air horn pressure are equal during main metering
system operation, and the calihration
o( the carhuretor isn't affected by the
air cleaner's condition.
IDLE FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

When the throttles are closed or
nearly closed, there is not enough air
flow through the venturis to create
the vacuum needed to operate the
primary main metering system.
Therefore, a separate fuel metering
system for idle operation is incorporated.
The primary idle fuel supply system (Fig. 6) uses the pressure difference between manifold vacuum
and atmospheric pl'essure in the
bowls to cause fuel flow. Idle system
fuel flow is from the bowl, through
the main metering jets and into the
main wells. From there, the fuel flows
up through calibrated restriction in
the idle tubes, then down the idle
channels to the idle cavities in .the
throttle body. It enters the venturis
below the throttle plates through the
idle discharge port and idle transfer
slot. The idle fuel adjustment screw
r,e gulates the amount of fuel that is
discharged through the port.
Air Bleeds
Filtered air is mixed with the fuel
through the idle air bleeds to help
the fuel atomize as it is discharged.
The bleed also prevents siphoning
through the idle system at very high
speeds, or when the engine is shut
down.
Idle Transfer Slot
The idle transfer slot in each venturi serves both as an air bleed and
as a secondary discharge port. At
closed throttle (Fig. 6), the top of
the slot admits air mto the idle
cavity, and the bottom of the slot
delivers fuel to the venturi. When the

throttle opens slightly ahove an idle
<'ondition. the whole length of the slot
becomes a discharge port to richen
the mixture (Fig. 6). This secon'dary
discharge opening prevents the increase in air flow from making the
mixtUie too lean. There would be a
"flat spot" in the transition from the
idle to the main metering system
without the transfer slot.
PRIMARY MAIN FUEL

METERING SYSTEM
A primary main fuel metering system, divided into two parts _
one
for each primary barrel _ provides
the fuel required by the engine at
cruising speeds. Main metering systems are calibrated to deliver a lean
mixture _about 15 parts air to one
part gasoline _ when the engine is
cruising under light load. When more
power is required. the main metering
system continues to operate, and the
miture is made richer by other systems.
Parts of the Main Metering System
In the Model 4300 carburettor,the
primary main metering system (Fig.
7' has two main metering jets; main
wells. and main well tubes; calibrated
air bleeds; disC'harge nozzles; and
booster venturis. At rest, fuel flow!;
from the bowl, through the main jets,
and into the main wells and tubes. In
each well and tube, the fuel assumes
the same level as in the bowl until
the engine begins to operate.
Pressure Difference Causes Flow
With the engine operating, the
main metering system delivers fuel
in response to the throttle plate
opening. Opening the throttle causes
air flow through the main venturi
and booster venturi; the flow through
the booster venturi causes a pressure

drop or partial vacuum at the discharge nozzle. The fuel howl is at air
horn pressure, resulting in a preSSJ.Ire
difference that creates flow through
the system. Fuel is sprayed out the
discharge nozzle and mixes with the
airstream.
The size of the main jet determines
how much fuel is delivered for a given
volume of air flow. Increasing or decreasing throttle opening increases or
decreases the fuel delivery so that
the mixture proportion or ratio is
quite constant.
Bleed Assists Vaporization
The high-speed air bleeds (Fig. !!)
in the system permits some air to be
mixed with the fuel in the main well.
The air enters the main well tube
through two holes when fuel is flowing
in the system. Adding air at this
point assists vaporization, and com
pensates for the tendency of the air
to become less dense at high speeds.
The bleed also doubles as an antisiphoning vent at low speeds. And it
discourages percolation when a hot
engine is shut down by venting the
main well .
ACCELERATING PUMP SYSTEM

Air, being very light, responds
rapidly to changes in the throttle
opening. Gasoline is heavier, and
therefore not as responsive. When the
throttles are opened suddenly, air
flow increases rapidly, but fuel flow
lags. So that the engine will respond
instantly to opening the throttle, an
accelerating pump system. which
furnishes 1'1 . single spurt of fuel in
each primary venturi when the
throttles are opened, is incorporatC'd .
Piston-Type Pump
A piston-type pump (Fig. 9) is
actuated by a link from the accelerator linkage and by a spring to cause
the pumping action. The pumping
cham her is formed below a cup on the
pump piston. A hall-type intake
check valve and a needle-type discharge valve control the flow of fuel
into and out of the .pumping chamber
and channels. Discharge nozzles
open into both primary venturis.
Fuel Intake
Fuel intake occurs as the throttles
are closed (Fig. 9). The accelerating
pump link pulls the piston up, compressing the piston ring. A partial
vacuum is created helow the piston
cup in the pumping chamber.
Fuel in the bowl, at this time, is
exposed to full atmospheric pressure.
as the external vent valve lever also
is actuated by the accelerating pump
link to open the valve.
The pressure difference pushes the
intake check valve off its seat and
causes fuel to flow from the bowl into
the pumping chamber. The discha'rge
valve is seated. and prevents backflow
in the discharge passages.
J:'uel Discharge
When the throttles open (Fig. 10),
the end of the accelerating pump link
moves down in the piston arm slot,
and the spring pushes the piston into
the oumoine chamber. PressurP.
builds up ~n the chamber to force
the inlet valve closed on its seat.
Fuel is pumped through the discharge passages __ the discharge
valve is forced open hy the fuel pressure _ and fuel is spraY,ed out the
discharge nozzle. When the piston
has reached its limit of travel
(depending on how far the accelerator
is depressed), flow stops and the discharge valve seats. The discharge
passages remain primed, or full of
fuel, so that pumping action through
the nozzles is instantaneous on the
next cycle.
BOOSTER VENTURI
OAIR
FUEL
1[;1 FUEL
AND AIR
VACUUM
OAIR
FUEL
(;11
FUEL AND AIR

VACUUM
Fig. 6 - Idle Transfer Slot is Secondary

Discharge Passage
10-51
MAIN
METERING JET
MAIN WELL TUBE
Fig. 7- Primary Main Metering System
10-52
FUEL
Fig. 8 - High-Speed Air Bleeds

Air Bleed Check Valve
With the engine operating at high
speed, a vacuum exists at the accelerating pump discharge nozzles. An
air bleed check valve prevents this
vacuum from siphoning fuel through
the accelerating pump system when
fuel is not being discharged. The
valve is placed at the upper end of
the discharge nozzle passage.
CLOSED
POWER FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM

The main metering system provides
a lean mixture for cruising conditions, when power requirements are
not high. When more power is required for high speed operation or
for accelerating it is necessary to
burn more fuel. The small amount of
fuel in a lean mixture does not provide enough heat upon combustion
for full engine power. Therefore, a
way to "step up" or richen the mixture is provided .. . this "step up"
system is termed the power fuel
supply system (Fig. 11).
Vacuum Piston and Power Valve
The power fuel supply system uses
a vacuum-controlled piston in the air
horn body and a power valve to admit
more fuel when power is required.
The vacuum piston rod is spring-
Fig. 10- Accelerating Pump- Discharge

loaded, and tends to push the rod
down. The stem of the power valve is
also spring-loaded, tending to hold
the power valve up or closed.
Manifold vacuum is sensed on top
of the piston through passages in the
carburetor bodies. At idle or cruising
conditions, the vacuum is high enough
to overcome the p1ston rod sprmg
force. The piston and rod are held
up and away from the power valve
stem. The power valve spring then
holds the valve closed.
Another Passage to the Main Well
When the engine is under load. the
vacuum drops. The vacuum piston
rod is pushed down by its spring and
the rod pushes on the power valve
stem. The comparatively light power
valve spring is overcome and the

valve opens (Fig. 12). Opening the
valve gives another passage from the
bowl to the main wells .. . through
the valve and power jets. The effect
is the same as if a temporary increase
in the size of the main jets was made.
More fuel is discharged through the
main metering system to make the
mixture richer.
When the engine load decreases,
the process is reversed. The piston is
pulled up by higher manifold vacuum
and allows the power valve to close.
SECONDARY MAIN FUEL

METERING SYSTEM
. All the "action" described in this
section so far is within the primary
OAIR
FUEL
VACUUM PISTON
MANIFOLD
VACUUM
CHANNEL
POWER
PARTIAL
VACUUM
INTAKE CHECK VALVE (UNSEATED)
Fig. 9 -Accelerating Pump System-Intake
FUEL
VACUUM
POWER JET
Fig. 11 -Power Fuel Supply System
10-53
SECONDARY CHANNEL
BLEED
MAIN WELL
AIR
FUEL
VACUUM
VALVE OPENS
0
AIR
FUEL AND AIR
FUEL
VACUUM
Fig. 12- Power Valve Action

venturis. The following deals with
the "secondaries", the other two venturis that give an extra volume of
fuel-air mixture when maximum
power is applied.
The secondary throttles are linked
mechanically to the primaries, and
begin to open when the primariPs are
three-q uarters open.
Air Valve Plates
Each secondary venturi (barrel)
(Fig. 13) has an offset air valve plate
located below its booster venturi .
These plates are preloaded by a
spiral torsion spring, which holds
them closed when the secondary
throttles are closed .
The air valve plates being closed,
cause a vacuum as soon as the
throttles begin to open. The fuel bowl
is at air horn pressure. The pressure
difference starts fuel flowing from
the bowl; through the seconda:y
main jet tube to the secondary roam
wells; then through the main well
ENRICHMENT
DISCHARGE TUBE
Fig. 13- Secondary Main Metering System

tubes and out the enrichment discharge tubes.
Secondary Main Discharge Tubes
A second stage of fuel supply
occurs when the air valve plates are
pulled open by manifold vacuum
below them. Increased air flow then
causes fuel to be discharged into the
booster venturis from the secondary
main discharge tubes.
The amount that the air valves
open, and therefore the amount of
mixture delivered, is controlled by
the difference in air pressure acting
on the plates balanced against the
spiral torsion spring. An integral
hydraulic dashpot dampens sudden
movemPnts of the plates to prevent
flutter and erratic e ngine operation.
Air Bleeds
Air is introduced into the fuel at
the secondary channel anti-siphon
hleed and at th e high -speed bleeds to
help vaporization. The bleeds also
act as anti-percolation vents at idle

or when a hot engine is shut down,
by relievi-ng pressure in the main
well tubes.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE SYSTEM

To start and operate a cold engine,
it is necessary to supply a richer mixture, because the fuel doPsn't vaporize as readily and because part of the
vaporized fuel condenses inside the
cold intake manifold. The choke system, by regulating the position of the
choke above the primary venturis,
provides the means of making the
cold mixture rich. and gradually letting it become leaner as the engine
warms up.
Thermostatic Spring Controls
Choke Plate
The thermostatic spring in the
choke housing (Fig. 14) exerts a
torque that forces the linkage to close
the choke plate when the engine is
cold. The choke plate is closed fully
FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW
Fig. 14- Automatic Choke System
Fig. 15- Fast Idle Cam
10-54
SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER
Fig. 16 - Choke Unloader Operation

before the engine starts so as to block
air flow into the venturis. When the
engine is cranked, engine vacuum
then causes fuel to flow from the
main metering and idle systems to
start the engine.
Choke Plate Pulldown
When the engine starts, some air is
needed to prevent flooding. The
choke plate is pulled open slightly by
the effect of engine vacuum and by
the operation of tht choke piston.
The piston, also located in the choke
housing, is actuated by vacuum as
soon as the engine starts. Piston
travel is limited by vacuum bypass
slots in the choke piston cylinder wall
and a slot in the piston. When the
slots meet, vacuum starts to bleed off,
preventing further piston travel.
Thus, the choke plate is opened just
enough to prevent flooding, but not
enough to lean out the cold mixture.
If the engine is accelerated during
warmup, vacuum drops and the choke
closes for an instant ... the mixture
EJ
Fig. 17- Secondary Throttle Lockout
is thus made richer to prevent a

"stumble" or stalling.
Exhaust-Heated Air Control
As the engine warms up, inlet manifold
supplied heat warms the thermostatic
choke spring. The choke closing force is
gradually relaxed and the choke plate
opens as the engine becomes warm.
Fast Idle Cam
During the engine warm-up period,
it is necessary to have a faster idle
speed to prevent stalling. The fast
idle cam (Fig. 15) increases the idle
speed by cracking the throttles to
admit more air.
The cam is rotated into position
under the fast idle adjustment screw
bv the automatic choke lever. The
adjustment screw is mounted on the
throttle lever and actuates the
throttles when the cam contacts it.
The cam has several steps, and moves
to succeedingly lower steps under the
fast idle adjustment screw as the en-
gine warms up. Thus, there are progressively !ewer fast-idle speeds.
Choke Unloader (Dechoker)
If the engine becomes flooded while
the driver is trying to start it, the
choke unloader (Fig. 16) permits the
choke, by using the throttle lever, to
be opened. Pushing the accelerator
pedal to the floor mechanically moves
a projection on the throttle lever
against the unloader face on the fast
idle cam. The cam partially opens
the choke plate.
Secondary Throttle Lockout
The secondary throttle lockout
(Fig. 17) also is actuated by the choke
system to prevent the secondary venturis from delivering fuel when the
engine is cold. The throttle lockout
lever engages with a lever on the
secondary throttle shaft, and holds
the throttle plates tightly closed during choking. When the choke opens,
the lockout lever is disengaged so that
the secondaries can operatE>.
CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENTS
The adjustments described and
illustrated in this part should be
performed as required to retain the desired
engine performance characteristics. Refer
to the Specifications when evercarburettor
IDLE SPEED AND FUEL
MIXTURE
All carburettors are equipped with idle

limiters control the maximum idle richness
and help prevent unauthorized persons

from making overly rich idle adjustment.
The plastic idle limiter cap is installed
on the head of the idle fuel mixture
adjusting screw(s). (Fig. 18). Any adjustment made on carburettors having this
type of limiter must be within the range
of the idle adjusting limiter. Under no
circumstances are the idle adjusting limiters
or the limiter stops on the carburettor to be
mutilated or deformed to render the limiters
inoperative.
obtainable within the range of the idle
adjusting limiters, if all other engine

systems
are
operating
within
specifications.
At pre-delivery, follow the Normal
Idle Fuel Settings for both Engine Off and
Engine On and in Step 1 of Additional
Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures.
Other fuel system adjustments should not
be required at pre-delivery service.
Followins are the normal procedures
necessary to properly adj\lSt the engine
idle speed and fuel mixture. The specific
operations should be followed in the
sequence given whenever the idle speed Qr
10-55

idle full adjustments are made.
performing the normal procedures. If this
occurs, refer to Additional Idle Speed and
Fuel Mixture Procedures.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL
SETTINGS - ENGINE OFF
and
limiter
cap(s)
to
the
limiter cap(s).
2. Back off the curb idle speed
adjusting screw (Fig. 19) until the throttle
plate(s) seat in the throttle bore(s).
throttle positioner (if so equipped) is not
interfering with the throttle lever (Fig. 20) .
It may , be necessary to loosen the
dashpot or solenoid to allow the throttle
plate(s) to seat in the throttle bore(s) .
screw inward until it just makes contact
with the screw stop on the thottle shaft
and lever assembly. Then, turn the screw
inward I 1/2 turns to establish a
preliminary idle speed adjustment (Fig. 19).
making
idle
mixture
and
speed
adjustments.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL
SETTINGS - ENGINE ON
1. The engine and underhood
temperatures must be stabilized before
idle adjustments are made. Run the engine
a minimum of 20 minutes at 1500rpm.
This can be done by positioning the fast
idle screw or cam follower on the kickdown step of the fast idle cam (Fig. 21).
and the distributor advance. Use an
accurate-reading tachometer and timing
light when checking the initial ignition
timing and idle fuel mixture and speed.
made only when the transmission is in
Neutral.
transmisSion, the idle setting is made with
the transmission selector lever in the Drive
range.
full-open position.
5. Turn the headlights on high beam
to place the alternator under a load
condition in order to properly adjust to
the specified engine idle speed.
6. The final idle speed adjustment is
made with the air C()nditioner (if
equipped) turned ON.
to specifications. The tachometer reading
(rpm) must be taken with the air cleaner
MODEL 4300 4. V
FIG. 19- Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screws
IDLE MIXTURE LIMITER S
FIG. 18- Idle Fuel Mixture Adjusting

Limiter - 4300 4 V
installed. On vehicles with less than 50

miles, set the idle speed approximately 25
rpm below specifications to allow for an
rpm increase as the engine loosens up in
the first 100 miles of driving.
If it is not possible to adjust the idle
speed with the air cleaner installed;
remove it, make the adjustment, then
replace the air cleaner and check again for
the specified rpm.
Manual transmission vehicles may be
fitted with a solenoid throttle positioner.
However this is not connected on these
engines and must be adjusted so as not to
affect the engine idle speed. Idle speed
adjustment is to be made on the normal
throttle stop screw.
screw(s) inward an equal amount to obtain
the smoothest idle possible within the
range of the idle limiter(s).
Check for idle smoothness only with
the air cleaner installed.
ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED
AND FUEL MIXTURE
PROCEDURES
obtained after performing the preceding
normal idle fuel settings, additional checks
of engine systems must be performed.
checked and, if required, corrected.
a. Vacuum leaks
b. Ignition system wiring contmuity
c. Spark plugs
d. Distributor breaker point ."well
angle
e. Distributor point condition
f. Initial ignition timing
In certain instances, it may be possible
that the idle condition is not as good as
... "'ltally expected. It is suggested that the
customer with a new vehicle be advised
that the vehicle be driven 50 to 100 miles.
Then, when the engine friction has been

reduced, the idle condition should be
improved. If, after the break-in period, the
idle condition is believed to be
unsatisfactory, re-adjust the engine idle
speed to specification and observe for a
satisfactory idle.
2. If the idle condition is not
improved after the items in Step I have
DASHPOT LOCKNUT
BJ134A
FIG. 20- Dashpot - Typical Installation
a. Fuel Level
b. Crankcase ventilation system
c. Valve
clearance (using the
collapsed tappet method for hydraulic
valves)
d. Engine compression
3. After verification of all engine
systems has been made, there may be
isolated cases where a satisfactory idle
condition has not been obtained. due
possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture. If this
condition is encountered, refer to the
following operation.
REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION OF
IDLE LIMITER CAPS
Should the idle limiter caps need
replacement because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment of idle mixture to
meet emission level requirements the
fo:'owing procedure must be adhered to
as the 'therm'll conductivity' type of gas
analyzer found iri most service shops is
not accurate enough to give the required
carbon monoxide readings .
2. Cut the plastic limiter cap ana
carefully pry apart and remove it from the
10-56
idle adjustment screw.
3. Replace the air cleaner .
the engine.
6. Run the engine until the normal
screws to give the best quality idle at
20 R.P .M. above the specified speed.
8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture
screws an equal amount on each screw by
turning in a clockwise direction until the
engine R.P.M. drops to the specified idle
speed .
10. Install the blue plastic service limiter
cap.
Use care not to turn the idle mixture
when installing the cap. Position . the cap
so that it is in the maximum counterclockwise position with the tab of the
limiter against the stop on the carburetor.
The idle mixture screw will then be
at the maximum allowable outward or
rich setting.
To install the service limiter cap, use a
straight forward push with thumb pressure
or a 3/ 8" rod.
11. Replace the air cleaner and recheck
screws were not accidently rotated while
fitting the limiter caps.
engine.
FAST IDLE
ADJUSTMENT
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 21)

contacts one edge of the fast idle cam.
The cam permits a faster engine idle
speed for smoothe.r running when the
engine is cold during choke operation. As
Make certain the curb idle speed and

mixture are adjusted to specification
before attempting to set the fast idle
speed.
1. With
the
engine
operating
temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner
removed and the tachometer attached,
manually rotate the fast idle cam until the
fast idle adjusting screw rests on the
specified step on the cam.
inward or outward as required to obtain
the specified fast idle rpm.
in Fig. 22. Bend the pump control rod to

correct the piston stem height to
specifications.
If it is necessary to correct the setting,
the pump stroke can be altered as follows :
1. Remove the pump pivot pin
retainer. Remove pivot pin.
2. Insert the pivot pin into the
desired hole.
3. Install the pivot pin retainer.
Position the pump rod end into the pump
arm and install the retainer.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT (if fitted)
CHOKE PLATE PULLDOWN AND

FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE

mixture properly adjusted, and the engine
at normal operating temperature, loosen
the anti-stall dashpot lock nut.
position and depress the plunger with a
screwdriver blade. Measure the clearance
between the throttle lever and the plunger
tip. Turn the anti-stall dashpot in a
direction to provide the specified
clearance between the tip of the plunger
and the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut
to secure the adjustment.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
THERMOSTATIC SPRING
HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The
automatic choke has an
adjustment to control its reaction to
engine temperature. By loosening the
clamp screws that retain the thermostatic
spring housing to the choke housing.
The spring housing can be turned to
alter the adjustment. Refer to the
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly,
heater hose and mounting bracket (if so
equipped) from the carburettor.
housing clamp retaining screws. Set the
spring housing to the specified index mark
and tighten the clamp retaining screws.
are not required, install the heater hose
and mounting bracket (if so equipped) and
the air cleaner assembly on thecarburettor.
V1271-A
FIG. 21- Fast Idle Speed Adjustment Motorcraft Model4300 4-V
the choke plate is moved through its range

of travel from the closed to the open
position, the fast idle cam pick-up lever
rotates the fast idle cam. Each position on
the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm
as engine temperature rises and choking is
reduced.
ACCELERA TlNG PUMP

STROKE ADJUSTMENT
The accelerating pump stroke has
been set to help keep the exhaust emission
level of the engine within the specified
limits. The additional holes provided for
pump stroke adjustment are for adjusting
the stroke for specific engine applications.
The stroke should not be changed from
the specified setting.
If the pump stroke has been changed
from the specified setting refer to the
following instructions to correct the
stroke to specification. ~efore adjusting
the accelerating pump stroke, measure the
height of the pump piston stem as shown
CHOKEPLATEPULLDOWN
1. Remove the air cleaner, then
remove the choke thermostatic spring
housing from the carburettor. To remove
the thermostatic spring housing from the
carburettor installed on the engine, refer to
Thermostatic Spring Housing and Gasket
Replacement.
2. Bend a wire gauge of 0.036-inch
diameter
at
a
90
degree angle
approximately 1/8-inch from one end.
3. Block
the
throttle
about
half-open so the fast idle cam does not
contact the fast idle adjustment screw,
then insert the bent end of the wire gauge
between the lower edge of the piston slot
and the upper edge of the right-hand slot
in the choke housing (Fig. 23).
4. Pull the choke piston lever
counterclockwise until the gauge is snug in
the piston slot. Hold the wire gauge in
place by exerting light pressure in a
rearward direction on the choke piston
lever. Check the choke plate clearance
(Pull down) between the lower edge of the
choke pia te and the wall of the air horn.
5. To adjust the choke plate
clearance, loosen the hex head screw (left
hand thread) on the choke plate shaft
(Fig. 23) and pry the link away from the
tapered shaft.
Use a drill gauge 0.010-inch under the
specified clearance between the lower edge
of the choke pia te and the wall of the air
horn. Hold the choke plate against the
gauge and maintain a light pressure in a
rearward direction on the choke lever.
With the choke piston snug against the
0.036-inch wire gauge and the choke plate
against the drill gauge, tighten the hex
head screw (left hand thread) on the
choke plate shaft.
The use of a 0.010-inch undersize drill
gauge is to allow for tolerances in the
linkage. Use a drill gauge equal to the size
of the specified clearance to make a final
check.
6. Install
the
gasket
and
thermostatic spring housing on the choke
housing. Install the spring housing retainer
and screws.
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOfl

IJ END ROD f O
AD JUS I Ht IGHT
V1298 A
FIG. 22- Accelerating Pump Piston Stem

Heigh't and Pump Stroke

ADJUSTMENT
the choke plate and the air horn wall.

Turn the fast idle cam adjusting screw
inward to increase the clearance or
outward to decrease the clearance. Make
sure the fast idle speed adjusting screw
stays at the kickdown step of the fast idle
cam during the adjustment.
On the 351 C engine, a two-piece fast
idle lever is used to provide clearance
between the lever and manifold, and a
tang on the top lever will align with the V
mark on the cam.
3. Set
the thermostatic choke
housing to the specified index mark and
tighten the retaining screws.
4. If the choke plate clearance and
fast idle cam linkage adjustment was
performed with the carburetor on the
engine, adjust the engine idle speed and
fuel mixture. Adjust the anti-stall dashpot
(if so equipped).
DECHOKECLEARANCE
l. Rotate
the
spring
housing
counterclockwise (rich direction) to align
the center index mark on the choke
housing with the index mark on the spring
housing. Rotate the spring housing an
additional 90 degrees counterclockwise
and tighten the retaining screws.
2. Position the fast idle speed
adjusting screw end on the kickdown
(centre) step of the fast idle cam. Check
the clearance between the lower edge of
l. Open the throttle plate to the

wide-open-throttle position .and hold.
2. Rotate the choke plate towards
the closed position until the pawl on the
fast idle speed lever contacts the fast idle
cam.
3. Check the clearance between the
lower edge of the choke plate and the air
horn wall.
the
clearance
to
4. Adjust
specifications by bending the pa~l on the
DRILL GAUGE OF SPECIFIED
CLEARANCE SIZE
TAPER LOCK CHOKE SHAFT SCREW

(LEFT HAND THREAD)
10-57
fast idle speed lever forward to increase or

backward to decrease the clearance.
FUEL LEVEL FLOAT AND
AUXILIARY (SUPPLEMENTAL)
VALVE SETTING
FLOAT SETTING
To simplify parallel setting of the dual
pontoons, refer to Fig. 24 for the construction of an adjustable float gauge
and a float tab bending tool.
1. Adjust gauge to the spe.::ified
height.
2. Insert gauge into the air horn
outboard holes (Fig. 25).
3. Check
the
clearance
an<i
alignment of the pontoons to the c;auge.
Both pontoons should just touch the
gauge for the proper setting. Align the
pontoons if necessary by slightly twisting
the pontoons.
If it is n~cessary to adju st the float
clearance, bend the primary needle tab
downward to raise the float and upward to
lower the float.
To bend the tabs with the float
bending tool, the procedure is as follows :
To Raise the Float, insert the open
end of the bending tool to the RIGHT side
of the float lever tab and between the
needle and float hinge. Raise the float
lever off the needle and bend the tab
downward.
To Lower The Float, insert the open
end of the bending tool to the LEFT side
of the float lever tab, between th e needle
and float hinge. Support the float lever
and bend the tab upward .
AUXILIARY
(SUPPLEMENTAL) VALVE
SETTING
Check the auxiliary valve clearance
(Fig. 26). If it is necessary to adjust the
auxiliary valve and float tab to the
specified clearance, use the bending tool
shown in Fig. 25 .
AIR HORN TO
MAIN BODY GASKET
REMOVAL
INCH WIRE
GAUGE
APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE TO CHOKE LEVER
FIG. 23- Choke Plate Pull-Down and Fast

Idle Cam Adjustment
V1235-A
1.
Remove the air cleaner assembly
2. Disconnect the fuel inlet line

from the air horn.
3. Remove the choke clean air
pick-up connecting tube from the air horn .
4. Remove the choke control rod
retainer from the automatic choke lever.
Separate the rod from the lever.
5. Remove the accelerator pump rod
retainer or spring from the pump lever.
10-58
NO. 1232 x 2" SCREWS (2 REQ'O.)

NO. 12 NUTS (6 REQ'O.)
v 1152-4
FIG. 26- Auxiliary (Supplemental) Valve
Setting
ADJUST BOTH NUTS TO FLOAT

HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
BENDING TOOL- 1/ 16" DIAMETER

SPRING STEEL WIRE OR WELDING
ROD, 8" LONG
828598
FIG. 24- Float Gauge and Bending Tool

Details
retaining screws in the left rear hole.

5. Install the other air horn retaining
screws and the carburettor identification
tag.
6. Insert the accelerator pump
control rod into the pump lever. Install
the pin and the retainer or spring.
7. Insert the choke control rod end
into the automatic choke lever. With long
nose pliers, install the retainer.
8. Connect the fuel inlet line.
9. Connect the choke clean air
pick-up and heat tubes.
engine curb idle speed.
BEND TAB TO RAISE OR LOWER FLOAT
MAIN AND AUXILIARY

~UPPLEMENTAL) FUEL INLET
VALVE
REMOVAL
1. Remove the air horn assembly

from the main bo~y of the carburettor.
2.
Pull the float pivot pin and
remove the float and lever assembly.
3. Remove the main fuel inlet needle
valve. then use the proper size screwdriver
....
ACCELERATOR PUMP
DISCHARGE NEEDLE
FIG. 25- Float Setting.

6. Remove the air cleaner anchor
screw and the air horn to main body
retaining screws, and the carburettor
identification tag.
7. Lift the air horn off the fuel
bowl.
8. Remove the gasket.
INSTALLATION
1. Make sure all holes in the new
gaskets have been properly punched and
MAIN JETS
V 115lA
that no foreign material has adhered to the

gaskets Gasket surfaces must be clean and
flat and free of nicks or burrs.
2. Install the gasket on the carburettor main body.
3. Carefully position the air horn
assembly over the main body. Guide the
accelerator pump plunger and the
secondary throttle dash pot piston in to
their chambers as the air horn is gently
lowered into position.
4. Install the longest of the air horn
v 115S.4
F /G. 27 - Main Body Valves and Jets
- Model 4300 4- V

or jet removal tool to remove the main
and auxiliary valve. seats and gaskets.
INSTALLATION
1. Install new gaskets on the valve

seats. Then install the seats in the air horn.
2. Place the main fuel inlet needle
valve in the valve seat.
3. Position the float and lever
assembly between the hinge posts and over
the fuel inlet valves, then install the float
pivot pin. The pin must be inserted from
the pump plunger side for self-retention.
4. Install the air horn on the main
body.
5. Adjust-the idle fuel mixture and
engine idle speed.
ACCELERATING PUMP, INLET
BALL CHECK, NEEDLE.VALVE AND
EJ
DISCHARGE CHECK VALVE DISC.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the air hom assembly
from the main body of the carburettor.
2. Remove the accelerator rod
retainer and rod from the accelerating
pump lever, then remove the lever from
the accelerating pump piston and remove
the pump assembly from the air horn.
3. Remove the discharge checK valve
retainer with a small hook. Invert the air
horn and allow the check valve disc to fall
into palm of hand.
4. Remove the accelerating pump
inlet ball check retainer with long-nose
pliers, then use a magnet to lift the ball
check from the pump well.
5. Pick the accelerating pump
discharge needle from the discharge cavity .
INSTALLATION
1. Place the accelerating pump ball
10-59
check in the pump inlet hole of the pump

chamber. Install the ball check retaining
ring (Fig. 27).
2. Insert the discharge check valve
disc into the valve cavity, and install the
valve retainer flush with the air horn
surface. The cross slot in the retainer is
towards the valve.
3. Place the accelerating pump

discharge needle into the pump discharge
cavity.
4. Insert the accelerating

piston in the air horn .
pump
5. Compres$ the pump plunger and

insert accelerating pump arm into plunger
stem.
Line up holes in lever and insert pivot
pin through the specified hole in lever and
the air horn casting. Install retainer on pin.
6. Install the air horn assembly on
the main body.
CARBURmOR REMOVAL
Flooding, stumble on acceleration and
other performance complaints are in many
instances, caused by the presence of dirt,
water or other foreign matter in the
carburetor. To aid in diagnosing the cause
of complaint, the carburetor should be
carefully removed from the engine
without removing the fuel from the bowls.
The contents of the bowls may then be
examined for contamination as the
carburetor is disassembled.
1. Remove the air cleaner (Page 10-67)
Remove the heater hose from the choke
shield (if so equipped).
2. Remove the throttle cable or rod
from the throttle lever. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum line, in-line fuel filter
and the choke heat tube at the carburetor.
3. Disconnect the choke clean air
tube from the air horn.
4. Remove the carburettor retaining
nuts; then remove the carburettor. Remove the carburettor mounting gasket,
spacer (if equipped) and lower gasket,
from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the gasket mounting
surfaces of the spacer and carburettor.
Place the spacer between two new gaskets
and position the spacer and gaskets on the
intake manifold. Position the carburettor
on the spacer and gasket and secure it with
the retaining lockwashers and nuts. To
prevent leakage, distortion or damage to
the carburettor body flange, snug the nuts;
then, alternately tighten each nut in a
criss-cross pattern to the specified torque.
2. Connect the in-line fuel fllter

throttle cable, choke heat tube, and
distributor vacuum line. Position the
heater hose behind the choke shield.
3. Connect the choke clear air tube
to the air horn.
4. Adjust the engine idle speed, the
idle fuel mixture, anti-stall dashpot (if so
equipped) and the accelerating pump
stroke (if required). Install the air cleaner
(Page 10-67)
DISASSEMBLY
To facilitate working on the carburettor, and to prevent damage to the

throttle plates, install carburettor legs on
the base. If legs are unavailable, install
four 5/16 x 2 1/2 inch bolts and 8 nuts;
install nuts on the bolts, above and below
the carburetor base.
component parts of the various assemblies
to facilitate cleaning, inspection, and
assembly.
overhauling the carburetor. However,
certain components of the carburetot may
be
serviced
without
a complete
disassembly of the entire unit.
AIR HORN
1. Remove the fuel inlet line from
the fuel filter.
2. Remove the choke clean air pick
up connecting tube from the air horn.
3. Remove the choke control rod
retainer from the automatic choke lever.
4. Remove the accelerator pump rod

retainer or spring from the pump lever.
5. Remove the air cleaner anchor

screw and remove the air horn to fuel
bowl retaining screws.
6. Lift the air horn off the main
body.
7. Pull the float pivot pin and
remove the float assembly.
8. Using the proper size screwdriver
or jet removal tool, remove the main and
auxiliary (supplemental) fuel inlet valve
seats and gaskets.
9. Remove the secondary air valve
lever retainer and the rod from the
dampener piston assembly and air valve
plate, then remove the air valve dampener
piston rod and spring.
secondary air valve plate(s) attaching
screws. Remove the plates, then slide the
shaft out of the air horn.
choke plate or choke shaft, remove the
staking marks on the choke plate retaining
screws. If the tips of the screws are flared
excessively, file the flared portion to
prevent damage to the threads in the shaft.
Remove the choke plate, then slide the
choke shaft and lever out of the air horn.
The choke lever is attached to the shaft
with a left hand thread screw.
12. Do not remove the power valve
vacuum piston assembly unless it is to be
replaced. It is staked in place in the air
horn, and care must be used to avoid
damage to the air hom casting when
relieving the staked areas.
10-60
MAIN BODY
I. Turn the main body upside down
and catch the accelerating pump discharge
needle (Fig. 27).
2. With a 3/8 deep . socket, remove
the power valve from the floor of the main
body fuel bowl (Fig. 27).
3. Remove the main metering jets
(Fig. 27) from the fuel bowl with a jet
tool.
4. Using long nose pliers, remove the
accelerating pump inlet check ball
retainer, then turn the main body over and
catch the ball from the pump well.
CHOKE HOUSING
6. Remove the nut from the

secondary throttle shaft, then remove the
lockout lever and and slide the shaft and
return spring out of the throttle body.
7. Remove the nut from the primary
throttle shaft and remove the fast idle
lever and adjusting screw (the 351 C
engine has a two-piece fast idle lever).
Slide the throttle shaft and primary
throttle shaft and lever assembly out of
the throttle plate.
8. Remove the primary throttle lever
assembly retainer, then slide the lever and
springs off the shaft.
9. If it is nec.essary to remove the
fast idle cam or bushing. carefully press
the bushing out of the choke housing and
bushing column. The column may bend
out of alignment or break without proper
support to the column during bushing
removal or installation.
ASSEMBLY
Make sure all holes in the new gaskets

have been properly punched and that no
gaskets. Gasket surfaces must be clean and
flat and free of nicks or burrs.
The carburettor assembly is shown in
Fig. 29 .
THROTTLE BODY
SECQoiDARY
THROTTLE PLATES
PRIMARY THROTTLE'
SHAFT AND LEVER
ASSEMBLY
FIG. 28- Throttle Body- Bottom View
THROTTLE BODY
Do not remove the idle mixture
limiter caps or the mixture screws from
the throttle body.
1. Remove the throttle body to
main body screws from the bottom of the
throttle body (Fig. 28) and separate the
two castings.
2. Remove the choke housing cover
screws, cover, gaskets and thermostatic
spring.
3. Remove the choke piston lever
retaining screw, then remove the piston
assembly.
4. Remove the retainers from the
secondary throttle lever to primary
throttle connecting link, then remove the
link.
throttle plates or shafts from the throttle
body, remove the staking marks on the
throttle plate attaching screws. Remove
tlie screws and remove the plates.
1. If the throttle plates and shafts

are removed, slide the primary throttle
return spring (coiled clockwise) on the
primary throttle shaft (flat milled) and
slide the shaft into the primary shaft holes
(mixture needle side of body).
2. Position the primary throttle
plates (smaller diameter) in the primary
bores with the ground flat edge of the
plates facing up and towards the idle
tnix ture needles. Install the plate retaining
screws snug but not tight.
3. Rotate the throttle shaft to the
closed position and tap the plate lightly
with the end of a screw driver handle or
similar tool, so that the plates are properly and fully seated in the throttle
bores (when viewed with a light behind
the plates, little or no light should be
observed). Tighten the throttle plate
screws.
4. Install the secondary throttle lock
out lever.
5. Install the fast idle speed lever
and adjusting screw.
6. If the fast idle cam and bushing
were removed, insert the automatic choke
shaft bushing tlwough the choke housing.
Position the fast idle cam between the
choke housing and bushing column. Slide
the bushing through the fast idle cam.

Press the bushing in the choke housing and
into the column. Clean the bushing with a
1/4-inch reamer.
7. Insert the automatic choke shaft
and lever in the bushing.
8. Position the automatic choke
piston in the choke cylinder and the lever
on the automatic choke shaft. Install the
retaining screw.
9. Insert the secondary throttle to
primary throttle connecting rod into the
throttle levers and install retainers.
MAIN BODY TO
THROTTLE BODY
l. Position the main body on a
working surface with the fuel bowl down.
2. Position the main body to
throttle body gasket on the main body.
3. Position the throttle body on the
main body and install the retaining screws.
4. Invert the main body and the
throttle body so the fuel bowl is upward.
5. Install the power valve and main
jets in the main body.
6. Install the choke to throttle
lockout lever.
7. Place the accelerator pump ball
check in the pump inlet hole of the pump
chamber. Install the ball check retaining
ring.
8. Place
the accelerator pump
discharge needle into the pump discharge
cavity.
AIR HORN
1. Install the components removed
from the air horn in the following order:
a. Power valve and gasket.
b. Auxiliary fuel inlet valve and
gasket.
2. Assemble the accelerator pump
plunger (Fig. 30) and insert into air horn.
3. compress the pump plunger and
insert accelerator pump arm into plunger
stem.
Insert the split pivot pin through the
specified hole in the lever and the air horn
casting.
4. If the choke plate and shaft were
removed, slide the choke shaft through the
holes in the air horn. Install the choke
shaft lever on the end of the shaft on the
automatic choke side. The lever and shaft
are tapered and the attaching screw has a
left hand thread.
Insert the choke plate into the slot in
the choke shaft and install the plate
retaining screws snug but not tight.
5. Close the choke plate and gently
tap the plate with the end of a screw
driver or a similar tool to properly
position the plate in the air horn.
10-61

ACCELERATOR PUMP LINK-9529
PUMP CONTROL ROD - 9B542

RETAINER- 377918-S ~
AIR VALVE DAMPENER LEVER-9H582~
~
.
PIN-9H584
~ .~
AUXILIARY (SUPPLEMENTAL) VALVE ASSEMBLY -9564
a--""""'"' ""'' """"
fa
9B544
-----1
ACCELERATING PUMP PISTON CUP-95n
FLOAT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY-9550
PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAFT

AND LEVER ASSEMBLY-9581
MAIN BODY (SERVICED IN 9510 ASSEMBLY)
SECONDARY
THROTTLE
SECOI'()ARY THROTTLE
SHAFT AND LEVER-9A592
SECONDARY THROTTLE
RETURN SPRING-9B504
THROTTLE BODY AND CHOKE HOUSING-9518
FIG. 29- Model4300 4-V

Carburetor Assembly
ond 34937-S
V1154-B
10-62

rod through air horn and attach the rod
end to the air valve lever.
12. Insert the accelerating pump
bleed disc into the pump bleed cavity.
13. Set the float lever (Refer to In
Vehicle Adjustments and Repairs).
AIR HORN TO
MAIN BODY
FIG. 30- Accelerator Pump in Position

on Air Horn
Tighten and stake the plate retaining
screws.
6. If the air valve plates and shaft
were removed, slide the shaft through the
holes on the secondary side of the air horn
and with the slotted end of the shaft in
the air valve spring chamber.
Position the plain air valve plate in the
air horn opening on the underside of the
air horn and adjacent to the spring
chamber.
Install the plate retaining screws snug
but not tight.
Position the other air valve plate in
the air horn opening with the eye retainer
for the air valve control rod facing
upward.
Install the plate retaining screws snug
but not tight.
7. Close the air valves plates and
lightly tap the plates with end of a
screwdriver or similar tool to properly
position the plates in the air horn.

Tighten and stake the plate retaining
screws. Be sure the plates and shaft turn
freely after assembly.
8. Insert fuel inlet needle into the
fuel inlet seat.
9. Position float and lever assembly
between hinge post and over fuel inlet
valves.
Insert the float hmge pin through the
post and float lever. The pin must be
inserted from the pump plunger side for
self-retention.
10. Insert key end of air valve
dampener rod into keyed hole in the air
valve lever.
Slide other end of rod into eye on the
air valve pl.tte.
Position the air valve dampener lever
on the air horn and install pivot pin and
retainer.
11. Insert the air valve dashpot piston
1. Position the main body to air

horn gasket on the main body.
2. Carefully position the air horn
assembly over the main body. Guide the
accelerator pump plunger and the
secondary throttle dashpot piston into
their chambers as the air horn is gently
lowered into position.
3. Install the other air hom retaining
screws.
4. Insert the key end of accelerator
pump control rod into the keyed hole in
the primary throttle lever. Insert the other
end of the rod into the pump lever and
install retainer.
5. Insert the choke control rod end
into the automatic choke lever. With long
nose pliers, install the retaining clip.
6. Check the choke gasket cover
clearance.
7. Install the choke gasket cover and
retainer. Set the cover to the ninety (90)
degree rich position.
8. Check the fast idle cam clearance.
9. Reset the choke cover to
spc:cifications.
10. Remove the carburettor legs or
bolts from the throttle body.
10-63
PART
106
FUEL PUMP AND FUEL FILTER
Pqe
Seetion
2 Removal and Installation _
Fuel Filter Replacement Fuel Pump Removal _
D . DESCRIPTION
10-63
10-64
10-64
10-64
Seetion
Fuel Pump Installation _ _ _
3 Major Repair Operations _ _ _
AC Fuel Pump - 6-Cylinder Engines
Carter Permanently Sealed Fuel Pumps
Pap
10-64
10-65
10-65
10-66
AND OPERATION
Single action fuel pumps are stand

ard equipment for all car models.
The fuel pumps on the 6-cylinder
engines are mounted on the lower,
left-centre of the engine cylinder -block.
On V -8 engines, the fuel pumps
are mounted on the left-side of the

cylinder front cover.
An AC type fuel pump (Fig. 1)
is used on the 200 and 250 Six engines. (A Carter Permanently Sealed
Fuel pump is used on the 250 C.I.D.
engine fitted with air-conditioning
and on the 250-2V engine.

A Carter permanently-sealed fuel
pump ia used on the V -8 engines
(Fig. 2).
The fuel pumps are mechanically
actuated by means of the fuel pump
rocker arm and an eccentric on the
camshaft.
FIG. 2 -Typical Carter Sealed

Design Fuel Pump
Tt tffT
FIG. 1- Fuel Pump Assembly

AC Type
A separate in-line fuel fllter (Fig.

3) is used on V-8 and 250-2V engines
and 250 engines fitted with air conditioning. The fllter is of one-piece
construction and does not contain a
cleanable fllter element.
FILTER ASSEMBLY-9155
FIG. 3- Typical In-Line Fuel

Filter Assembly- 351 C.I.D. Engine
10-64
A flexible fuel pump diaphragm is
operated by a combination of rocker
arm.action and calibrated spring tension.
On the fuel intake stroke, the camshaft eccentric causes the rocker arm
to lift the fuel pump diaphragm
against the diaphragm spring pressure. This action draws fuel through
the intake valve into the pump inlet
chamber and closes the outlet valve.
At the same time, fuel is drawn from
the fuel tank through the fuel intake
line to replace the fuel drawn into
the chamber.
As the camshaft eccentric continues to rotate, the rocker arm relieves the pressure on the diaphragm
spring and allows the spring to move
the diaphragm toward the inlet and
outlet valves, exerting pressure on
the fuel inlet chamber. This pressure
EJ
causes the pump inlet valve to close

and the ensuing pressr.re build-up
opens the outlet valve. The fuel is
then forced through the pump outlet
to -.r:.: fuel filter where it is cleansed
before entering the carburettor. Fuel
is delivered to the carburettor
only when the fuel inlet valve in
the carburettor is open. The carburettor inlet valve is closed by
fuel pressure on. the float when
the specified fuel level in the
carburettor float chamber is
reached.
When there is no demand for fuel
from the carburettor, the diaphragm
spring tension is not strong enough
to force the diaphragm against the
fuel pressure built up in the inlet
chamber of the pump. Thus, the up
and down rocker arm action continues, but the diaphragm remains
stationary until pressure against the

carburettor float is relieved by a demand for fuel at the carburettor.
The A.C. type and the 8 cylinder
Carter fuel pumps contain pressure
relief orifices in the inlet and outlet
valve cages to prevent pressure build
up in the line to the carburettor
during hot soak periods.
The Carter sealed fuel pump fitted
to 250-2V and 250 N (with air
conditioning) 6 cylinder engines have
an external by-pass pressure relief.
An air vent is located in the fuel
pump bodies to relieve air pressure
build-up on the spring side of the
diaphragm.
The fuel pumps contain a diaphragm rod seal to prevent the en
trance of engine oil into the fuel
pump.
fUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The in-line fu~l filter (Fig. 3) is

of one-piece construction and cannot
be cleaned. Replace the filter if it
becomes clogged or restricted.
351 C.I.D. Engine
l. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Loosen the retaining clamp
securing the fuel inlet hose to the
filter and detach the hose from the
fllter. Discard the clamp.
3. Unscrew the fuel filter from
the carburettor.
4 . Screw the new filter into the
carburettor.
5. Place a new clamp on the fuel
inlet hose and slide the hose onto the
filter.
6. Position the hose clamp and
crimp securely.
fuel leaks.
302 C.I.D. Engine
l. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Hold the hexagonal part of the
fllter and unscrew the flared union
fuel pipe to filter .
3. Hold the hexagonal female
union on the carburetor and unscrew
the flared union fllter to carburetor.
Discard the filter.
4. Place the new filter in position

and tighten the flared union filter to
carburetor.
5. Tighten the flared union fuel
pipe to filter.
fuel leaks.
250-2V and 250 N (with air conditioner) engines
1. Loosen the clamp on the bypass hose at the filter and detach
from filter .
2. Hold hex part of filter to prevent filter from turning and unscrew
flared union, fuel pipe to filter.
3. Hold double female adaptor and
unscrew flared union, fuel filter to
double female adaptor.
4. Remove in-line filter.
5 Place a new filter in position and
screw top and bottom flared unions
to retain filter by holding hex. on
filter and hex on double female
adaptor, respective1y.
7. Replace the by-pass hose.
8 Start the Engine and check for
fuel leaks.
2. Remove the fuel pump retaining screws and remove the pump and
the gasket. Discard the gasket.
fUEL PUMP INSTALLATION

1. If the fuel pump on a 200 or
250 Six engine is to be replaced,
transfer the fuel pump fitting(s) to
the new fuel pump.
2. Remove all the gasket material

from the mounting pad and pump.
Apply oil-resistant sealer to both
sides of a new gasket. Position the
new gasket on the pump flange and
hold the pump in position against
the mounting pad. Make sure the
rocker ann is ridinc on the camshaft
eccentric.
3. Press the pump tight against
the pad, install the retaining screws,
and alternately torque them to specifications.
4. Connect the fuel inlet line or
hose (use a new clamp on the hose)
and the outlet line. If a hose is used
at the fuel pump connection, crimp
the retaining clamp securely.
fUEL PUMP REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the inlet line and
the outlet line at the fuel pump.
5. Operate the engine and check

for fuel leaks.
PART 10-6-
EJ
Fuel Pump and Filter
10-65
AC FUEL PUMP6-CYLINDER ENGINES

DISASSEMBLY
The fuel pump assembly is shown
in Fig. 1.
1. Scribe a line on the flanges of
the pump body and valve housing to
identify their original position.
2. Remove the valve housing from
the fuel pump body.
3. Remove the staking marks from
around the valves, remove both
valves from t)le valve housing. CarefuDy note the position of the valves
in the valve housing cover so that
new valves can be correctly instaUed.
Using a blunt punch, drive the
rocker arm pin out of the pump body
f.
(Fig. 4) .
5. Press the pump diaphragm into

the fuel pump body and pull the
rocker arm outward to unhook the
diaphragm actuating rod from the
rocker arm and link assembly (Fig.
5).
6. Remove the diaphragm and diaphragm return spring, rocker arm
and link assembly, and the rocker
arm return spring from the pump
body.
7. Remove the diaphragm actua~
ing rod oil seal retainer and the oil
seal from the pump body (Fig. 1).
Tool- T56L-9 350-A
Detoil 3
ROCKER ARM PIN
FIG. 4-Rocker Arm Pin

Remowal
CLEANING AND INSPECI10N
Refer to Pageto-nfor the cleaning
11. Position the valve body and

pump body so that the previously
scribed marks are aligned.
ll. Install all the screws and the
lockwashers until the screws just engage the fuel pump body. Make sure
that all of the screws pass through
the holes in the diaphragm without
tearing the fabric.
FIG. 5-fuel Pump Diaplwagm
Remowal
ASSEMBLY
1. Immerse the new oil seal in
clean engine oil for 2 minutes prior
to installation. Install the diaphragm
actuating rod oil seal and retainer so
that the seal protrudes towards the
diaphragm mounting flange (Fig. 1).
2.
Seat the oil seal retainer.
3. Install the valves in the valve

body so that the valve positions are
as shown in Fig. 1.
4. Seat the valves firmly in the
valve body. Stake the valves in place.
5. Lubricate the diaphragm actuating rod.

6. Position the fuel pump diaphragm and spring assembly into the
pump body.
7. Hold the diaphragm as!lembly
in the pump body; position the pump
body so that the mounting flange
faces up. Apply slightly more pressure to the lower edge of the diaphragm, and insert the rocker arm
link assembly with the cam shoe
facing away from the diaphragm.
Hook the rocker arm link to the
diaphragm actuating rod.
8. Lift one edge of the diaphragm
and observe the positioning of the
oil seal.
If the oil seal is not properly positioned, push the diaphragm into the
pump body as far as possible with a
slight twisting motion to the diaphragm. This wilf as ;ist the oil seal to
position itself propt rly on the diaphragm rod. Do not twist the diaphragm too severely or the rod may
be unhooked from the link.
9. Install the rocker arm return
spring and hold it in place by cocking the rocker arm slightly.
10. Install the rocker arm pin in
the pump body.
FIG. 6-Valve Arrangement A. C. Fuel Pump

13. Alternately and evenly tighten
all of the screws.
14. Cover all but one vent hole
in the pump lower body, using masking tape or a similar material.
15. Using a suitable vacuum
source, apply 15 inches of vacuum
(Hg) to the underside of the pump
diaphragm at the open vent hole.
Use a suitable rubber tipped probe
or hose to assure proper sealing at
the vent bole. Apply vacuum to the
diaphragm 2 times for a minimum
of one minute each time. This will
position the oil seal properly on the
diaphragm rod. Remove the sealing
tape from the vents.
FIG. 7 -Rocker Arm Pin Seal

Plug Removal
10-66
CARTER PERMANENnY
SEALED FUEL PUMPS
DISASSEMBLY
in Fig. 2.
1. Scrape away the staking mark
and remove the rocker arm pin seal
plug as shown in Fig. 7.
2. Release the tension on the
rocker arm spring pressure ~nd allow the rocker arm pin to fall out. If
the pin does not come out freely, tap
the fuel pump assembly lightly on
the bench until the pin sticks out of
the bore; then, remove the pin with
pliers. Remove the rocker arm and
spring(s).
CLEANING AND INSPECfJON

Clean and inspect the fuel pump
component parts. Refer to Cleaning
and Inspection (Pagelo-13) for the
proper procedure. Replace all worn
or damaged parts.
ASSEMBLY
in Fig. 2.
1. Insert the rocker arm spring
into the spring guide bore in the
dome of the fuel pump rocker arm
cavity.
2. Insert the rocker arm into the

cavity and hook it onto the diaphragm rod, directly below the rod
ftange. Position the rocker arm
spring(s) over the spring locater(s)
on the rocker arm. Align the rocker
arm pin holes and install the rocker
arm pin. Make certain the rocker
ann spring(s) Is properly posldoned
on the spring locater on the rocker
arm.
3. Install a new rocker arm pin
plug. Stake the plug into position.
10-67
PART
107
AIR CLEANERS
Pare
Section
Section
1 Description and Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67

2 Removal and Installation . . . . . . . .
1067
Air Cleaner Maintenance . . . . . .
10-67
Pap
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67
Cleaning and Inspection . . . . . . . .
10-67
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67
GENERAL
All engines are equipped with

conventional dry-type air cleaners
that have a replaceable filtering
element. The air cleaner body is
EJ AIR CLEANER -
mounted on a sealing gasket located

on the carburetor air horn. The air
cleaner assembly is retained on the
engine 'by a stud on the carburetor
body and a wing nut above the filter
cover.
Note: A heavy duty air cleaner

package which fits over the existing
filtering element is available for the
6-cylinder engine.
6 CYLINDER AND 302 VS

DESCRIPTION
The air cleaners, as fitted to the
6-cylinder 200 and 250 IV engines
and the 302-V8 engine, are basically
of the same design. The air cleaner
tops and filter assemblies are interchangeable between engines; however,
the air cleaner base for the 302 CID

engine, whilst being similar to the
air cleaner as fitted to the 6-cylinder
engines, is not interchangeable.
The 250-2V engine has a unique
air cleaner with a peripheral air
intake.
OPERATION
Air from the engine compartment
enters the air cleaner assembly
through the opening into a silencing
chamber and passes through the filter
element. Dust particles are trapped
in the filter element as the air
passes through it. After leaving the
filter element, the air is deflected
down into the carburettor.

AIR CLEANER MAINTENANCE
Refer to Group 19 for the air
cleaner assembly recommended
maintenance mileage interval.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wing nut retaining
the air cleaner assembly to the carburettor.
2. Remove the air cleaner ass.!mbly
from the carburettor. To prevent
dirt from entering the carburettor, the filter element must never
be removed when the air cleaner

body is mounted on the carburettor.
3. Remove the air cleaner cover
and filter element. Discard the air
cleaner mounting gasket if it is
excessively worn or damaged.
4. Inspect the air cleaner filter as
:lescribed on page 10-13.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new air cleaner mounting gasket on the carburettor if
req\lired.
2. Position the air cleaner body

on the carburettor, ensuring that the
body is properly seated on the gasket
and located correctly on the carburettor.
3. Place the filter element on the
air cleaner body. Make sure the
filter is properly seated. The word
TOP is indicated on the filter element,
make sure the word TOP faces up.
Install the cover and tighten the
retaining wing nut.
10-68
EJ
HOT AND COLD TYPE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM -
VACUUM OPERATED

DESCRIPTION
The air cleaners as fitted to the
351C-2V and 351C-4V engines are
basically the same design, with the
filter elements being interchangeable.
The air cleaners feature inlet manifold vacuum operated, bi-metallic
switch controlled (Fig. 1), hot and
cold type duct and valve assembly.
The duct and valve assembly incorporates an access to the underhood area (cold), similar to the conventional type air filter, and has in
addition an access connected by
means of a flexible pipe to the front
of the exhaust manifold housing
(hot).
OPERATION
From initial cold engine start, high
inlet manifold vacuum/air pressure
difference overcomes the duct butterfly spring tension and closes the duct
cold access opening and opens the
hot access (from exhaust manifold)
opening, as shown in Fig. 2 (A). As
the engine warms, the resi.Iltani hot
air flowing through the air cleaner
causes the thermal-operated bi-metal
switch (Fig. 1) to unseat the bleed
valve which 'bleeds' vacuum from
the duct valve. The reduced vacuum/
air pressure difference is overcome
by the spring in the duct valve which
pens the cold access (under hood)
and closes the hot access (Fig. 2 (B)).
Incoming air is filtered through
the filtering element as with the
conventional dry type air cleaner.
DUCT AND VALVE

ASSEMBLY TEST
The vacuum-operated duct valve
is used on all 351 C engines.
3. Raise the air cleaner and duct

assembly and disconnect the vacuum
source hose at the bi-metal control
valve (inlet manifold side only).
1. The duct valve should be open

when the engine is off.
2. Start the engine. The valve
should close during engine idle unless
the engine has reached normal operating temperature. If the engine is cold
and the valve does not close during
idle, check for disconnected vacuum
lines to the vacuum motor and bimetal switch. Check the bi-metal
switch to see that the bleed valve is
seated.
3. Open and close the throttle
rapidly. The valve should open during throttle opening. If the valve does
not function properly, check for a
binding condition at the valve.
Correct as required.
4. The bi-metal switch can be
functionally checked by subjecting
the switch to heated air or removing
and immersing the switch in water
heated to 105-110 degrees F. Only
slight movement of the bi-metal is
necessary to unseat the bleed valve.
4. Remove the air cleaner and

duct assembly from the carburettor:
To prevent dirt from entering the
carburettor, the filter element must
never be removed when the air
cleaner body is mounted on the
carburettor.
VACUUM OFF
VACUUM ON
FIG. 2- Duct and Valve Assembly

HOT AND COLD TYPE VACUUM
OPERA TED AIR CLEANER
Removal and Installation
Refer to Group 19 for the air
cleaner assembly recommended
maintenance mileage interval.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wing bolt or nut
retaining the air cleaner and duct to
the carburettor and remove cover.
TO VACUUM SOURCE TO DUCT VALVE
MOTOR
FIG. 1.- Bi- Metal Switch
V1231-A
2. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation system hose and loosen the

clamp that secures the exhaust
shroud hose to the air cleaner duct.

cleaner mounting gasket if it is extensively worn or damaged. On the ram
air system, inspect the hood-to-air
cleaner seal for all-around contact.
Replace the gasket or seal if it is
worn or damaged.
Refer to Pagel0-13, for the carburetor air cleaner and filter element
cleaning and inspection procedure.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new air cleaner to carburettor mounting gasket, if required.
On all351 C.I.D. carburettor applications, torque the air cleaner
mounting stud to specification.
2. Position the air cleaner and air
intake duct and valve assembly on the
carburettor and shroud tube.
3. Connect the vacuum source
hose at the bi-metal control valve.
Secure the clamp attaching the
shroud to the air duct.
4. Install a new filter element in
the air cleaner body, if required. If
the word TOP is indicated on
the filter element, make sure the
word TOP faces upward. Make
sure the filter element is properly seated. Install the air cleaner
cover and retaining wing nut
HOT AND COLD AIR INTAKE
DUCT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
1. Remove the retaining cap screws
that secure the air intake duet and
valve assembly to the air cleaner.
2. Remove the air intake duct and
valve assembly from the engine.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the air intake duct and
valve assembly on the exhaust manifold shroud tube.
2. Connect the air inlet duct and
valve assembly to the air cleaner and
tighten the retaining cap screws.
10-69
PART
10-8
FUEL TANK AND LINES
Section
Paae
1 Description and Operation . . . ... . .. . ...... 10-69
2 Removal and Installation .. . ...... . ...... 10-69
Filler Pipe .... .... .. . .. .. . ... . ........ 10 69
Paae
Fuel Tank ... . ............ . ... .. ..... . . 10- 70
Fuel Lines .... . ..... . . .. ..... . . . ....... 10- 70
The fuel tanks used on the sedan

and station wagon models are located
in the cehtre of the rear (luggage
compartment) floor and are retained
to the floor by screws. The fuel
tanks used on the utility and van
models are located underneath the
floor behind the seat and are retained
by retaining straps.
The fuel tank sender unit for the
sedan and station wagon models is
accessible from underneath the car.
The fuel tank sender unit for the
van and utility is accessible by re-
EJ
Section
moving the fuel tank cover set into

the floor of the carrying compartment.
The fuel outlet line is fastened to
a connecting hose that is attached
to a line which enters the fuel tank
through the sender unit assembly.
A filter is located in the tank on the
fuel line pick-up tube. THIS FILTER DOES NOT REQUIRE SERVICING.
The fuel tank filler pipe on the
sedan and wagon is located in the
left rear quarter panel. On the utility
and van the filler pipe is located on
the left-hand body side lower.

The fuel tank filler pipe on all
models is attached to the tank inlet
pipe with a hose and hose clamps.
The fuel line, -{,; in. o.d. tube
(except for the 351C engine, which
has i in. o.d. tube) is routed from
the fuel tank, passing beneath the
left side of the underbody; then,
under the left fender and through the
forward part of the fender apron.
The complete fuel line is not normally replaced as a unit, only the damaged segments are usually replaced.
FILLER PIPE
SEDAN
Removal
1. Drain the fuel tank with a
siphon to a level below the filler pipe
opening in the tank. The fuel should
be drained into a suitable clean
container.
2. Remove the retaining screws
securing the filler pipe to the body
panel.
3. Loosen the hose clamp and
loosen the hose from the filler pipe.
4. Rotate the filler pipe and pull
it outward to remove it from the fuel
tank.
Installation
1. If necessary install new hose
clamps on the filler pipe hose.
2. Place a bead of sealer on the
filler pipe flange.
3. Position the filler pipe in the
body panel and slide the hose onto
the filler pipe.
4. Install and tighten the filler
pipe retaining screws.
5. Tighten the hose clamp and
install the siphoned fuel back in the

fuel tank.
FILLER PIPE - STATION WAGON
The station wagon has an upper
filler pipe and hose and a lower filler
pipe and hose. See Fig. 2.
Removal
I. Drain the fuel tank to a level
below the filler pipe opening in the
fuel tank.
2. Remove the inside quarter trim
panel and loosen the upper hose
clamp.
3. Remove the filler ca-p and the
filler pipe retaining screws.
4. Pull the upper filler pipe
through the body.
5. Lift the floor panel to gain
access to the spare wheel well and
loosen the clamps on the lower filler
pipe hose.
6. Prise the two large rubber
grommets from the floor member
and extract the lower filler pipe
through the quarter panel access hole.
7. Pull the lower hose from the

fuel tank inlet.
Installation
1. Place the lower hose on the
fuel tank inlet. Position the hose
clamps.
2. Place the lower filler pipe in
position in the body side member and
fit the two large grommets. Work the
pipe into the lower hose.
3. Working through the quartci
panel access hole fit the upper hose
to the lower filler pipe.
4. Place a 3/ 16" bead of sealer on
body panel opening and insert the
upper filler pipe through the ~ody
panel.
Work the pipe into the upper hose.
6. Replace and tighten the filler
pipe flange screws.
7. Tighten all hose clamps.
8. Lower the spare wheel cover
panel and replace the quarter trim
panel.
9. Place the siphoned fuel back in
the fuel tank and replace the filler
cap.
10-70
FUEL TANK- STATION WAGON
Removal
1. Siphon the fuel from the fuel
tank into a suitable container.
2. Remove the cargo compartment
mat, spare wheel cover panel and the
spare wheel.
3. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire at the sending unit.
4. Loosen the hose clamp, slide
the clamp forward and disconnect
the fuel line at the fuel gauge
sending unit.
5. If the fuel gauge sending unit
is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring counterclockwise and
remove the sending unit retaining.
ring and gasket.
6. Loosen the inlet pipe to tank
connecting hose clamps and pull the
hose clear of the tank inlet pipe.
7. Remove the fuel tank to floor
pan retaining screws and remove the
fuel tank.
Installation
1. Make sure all the old sealer has
been removed from the fuel tank
mounting flange and mounting surface at the floor pan. Apply caulking
cord to the fuel tank mounting
surface at the floor pan.
2. Position the fuel tank to the
floor pan and install the retaining
screws.
3. Position the hose to the fuel
tank inlet pipe and tighten the hose
clamps.
was removed, make sure all the old
gasket material has been removed
from the unit mounting surface on
the fuel tank. Using a new gasket,
position the fuel gauge to the fuel
tank and secure with the retaining
ring.
5. Connect the fuel gauge sending
unit wire to the sending unit.
6. Connect the fuel line at the fuel
gauge sending unit and tighten the
hose clamps securely.
7. Fill the tank and check all
connections for leaks.
8. Replace the spare wheel cover
panel and the cargo compartment
mat.
FUEL TANK UTE AND VAN
Removal
2. Remove the fuel tank cover set
into the floor of the carrying compartment.

the clamp forvard and disconnect
sending unit.
is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring counterclockwise and remove
the sending unit retaining ring and
gasket.
6. Loosen the clamps on the fuel
filler pipe rubber hose and remove
the hose from the filler tank inlet.
7. Loosen the vent pipe hose
clamp at the tank and move pipe
clear of the tank.
8. Remove the tank retaining
screws and lift out the tank.
Installation
1. Place the fuel tank in position,
install and tighten the retaining
screws.
_
2. Refit the rubber hose to the
fuel tank inlet and tighten the clamps.
the fuel tank.
Using a new gasket, position the
sending unit to the fuel tank and
secure with the retaining ring.
umt wire to the sending unit.
5. Connect the fuel line at the
fuel gauge sending unit and tighten
the clamps securely.
7. Replace the fuel tank cover in
the floor of the carrying compartment.
They must be cut, squared and

formed out of rolls of fuel system
service tubing and hose material
available at dealershipf>.
A damaged section of tubing
longer than 12 inches can be cut out
of the existing line and replaced by a
comparable service tubing section,
spliced into the line by means of connecting hoses and retaining clamps.
A damaged section of tubing shorter than 12 inches can be cut out of
the line and replaced by a length of
service hose and two retaining
clamps. All replacement hoses
must be cut to a length that will
ensure proper clamp retention
beyond the flared ends of the
connecting tubing.
REMOVAL
1. Drain the fuel from the tank.
2. Disconnect the line at the fuel
gauge sender unit and the fuel pump.
Remove the lines from the holding
clips along the underbody. Remove
all damaged hose sections and tube
sections.
INSTALLATION
1. Cut a new section of tubing to
approximately the same length as the
section to be replaced. Allow eztra
length for flaring the ends of the
tubing. Square the ends of the cut
tubing with a file.
2. Ream the inside edges of the
cut tubing with the reamer blade on
the tube cutter. Be sure metal
chips are removed from inside
the tube(s). Flare the ends of the
cut tubing, as required, with a standard tube flaring kit and tool (Fig. 5).
3. Bend the tube section to conform to the contour of the original
tube. Cut an ample length of hose
to form a coupling between the flared
ends of the fuel lines. Connect the
hose couplings to the tubing and
install the retaining clamps.
4. Position the lines in the underbody clips and tighten the clips.
Connect the line to the fuel gauge
sender unit and the fuel pump. Fill
the tank and check for leaks.
FILLER PIPE
11917-A
FIG. 5-Fuel Line Tube Die

FUEL LINES
The various fuel lines (Figs. 1, 2, 3

& 4) are not serviced as a~semblies.
UTILITY AND VAN

The utility and van have an upper
filler pipe and hose and a lower filler
pipe and hose. In addition they both
have an external vent pipe between
the fuel tank and the upper ftller pipe.
See Fig. 3.
PART 10-8-FUEL TANK AND LINES

Removal
1. Drain the fuel tank to a level
below the filler pipe opening iu th e
fuel tank.
2. Remove the floor panel in the
cargo area.
3. Remove the body side access
panel behind the filler pipe.
4. Remove the vent pipe to filler
pipe hose .
5. Loosen the filler pipe hose
clamps.
6. Remove the filler pipe retaining
screws.
7. Remove the upper filler pipe
through the body opening.
8. Remove the lower filler pipe
and hoses through the body access
hole. The vent pipe may also be
removed through the access hole if
desired .
Installation
1. Place the lower hose and clamps
on the fuel tank inlet.
2. Insert the lower filler pipe
through the access hole and into the
lower hose.
3. Place the upper hose and
cla~ps on the lower pipe.
4. Place a 3/16" bead of sealer on
the filler pipe flange and insert the
pipe through the body opening. Work
the pipe into the upper hose and
install the flange retaining screws.
5. Connect the vent pipe to the
upper filler pipe.
6. Tighten all hose clamps.

7. Replace the floor panel and the
body access panel.
8. Replace the siphoned fuel in
the fuel tank and fit the filler cap.
FUEL TANK
The fuel tank installations are
shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4.
SEDAN
Removal
the clamp forward and disconnect
sending unit.
is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring cmmterclockwise and
remove the sending unit retaining
ring anq gasket.
5. Remove the spare tyre from the
luggage compartment.
6. Remove the fuel tank filler neck
retaining screws.
7. Loosen the filler neck to tank
hose clamps. Remove the filler neck,
and filler neck to tank hose.
8 Remove the fuel tank to luggage
compartment floor pan retaining
screws and remove the fuel t~k.
10-71
Installation
1. Make sure all the old sealer has
been removed from the fuel tank
mounting flange and mounting surface at the luggage compartment
floor pan. Apply caulking cord to the
fuel tank mounting surface at the
luggage compartment floor pan.
2. Position the fuel tank to the
luggage compartment floor pan and
install the retaining screws. .
3. Place a 3/16" bead of sealer
around the filler neck flange . Position
the hose and filler neck assembly to
the body panel. Position the hose to
the fuel tank neck.
4. Install the filler neck to body
panel retaining screws and tighten
the hose clamps.
the fuel tank. Using a new gasket,
position the sending unit to the fuel
tank and secure with the retaining
ring.
6. Install the spare tyre and position the luggage compartment floor
mat.
unit wire to the sending unit.
8. Connect the fuel line at the
fuel gauge sending unit and tighten
the hose clamps securely.
lower the car.
10-72
PART
10-9
SPECIFICATIONS
CARBURETTORS
NOTE: All Specifications are given in inches unless otherwise noted.
The basic part number of all the carburettors is 9510.

The part number prefix and suffix appear on the
identification tag mounted on the carburettor.
Always refer to the Master Parts Catalogue for parts

usage and interchangeability before rep I acing a carburettor or a component part of a carburettor.
Carburettor Application and General Information.

STANDARD AND AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
200 and 250 IV Six Engines
Carburettor Model
200 C.I.D.
250 C.I.D.
Stromberg 8V2
Stromberg 80V2
Identification (Rubber Stamp on Float Chamber)-Manual (Auto) 200 8 (200 A)
250 8 (250 A)
Venturi diameter
1-5/32
1-9/32
Main discharge jet
28-25
28-25
High speed bleeder
No. 70
No. 70
Main metering jet
.058
.067
Power bypass jet
No. 55
2 X No. 54
Pump discharge jet
No. 67
No. 67
Idle discharge hole
No. 55
No. 55
Idle tube feed hole
No. 71
No. 67
Idle air bleed
0.049
0.051
Float-needle valve seat
0.073
0.073
Main metering jet for high altitudes

over 4,000 ft.
0.05
0.064
Fuel level below top face of main body at 500 rpm
5/8" -11 /16"
5/8" -11 /16"
*Accelerating Pump Stroke- Manual Transmission

-Auto. Transmission
.275-.310
.190-.225
.275-.310
.190-.225
Choke plate pull down clearance
.090-.100
.190-. 200
*Vent valve lift
.050-.060
.050-.060
575-600rpm
575-600 rpm
500-525 rpm
500-525 rpm
Engine Idle Speeds
-Manual
-Auto.
(Air conditioning operating if
equipped and headlights on high beam)
* Measured from _vehicle idle position. not fully closed throttle.

NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour red- Service replacement cap colour black.

250 C.I ,D.
Manual and Auto
250M
Bendix Stromberg WW2

Identification -
Rubber Stamp on Float Chamber
10-73
302 C.I.D.
Manual and Auto
cv
CARBURETTOR SIZE
Throttle Bore Diameter
1 -7/16
1-7/16
Venturi Diameter
1-3/16
1-3/16
Float Level Setting (Wet)
19/32-21/32
19/32-21/32
Float Chamber Vent Lift (at Hot Idle Setting)
.050-.080
.050- .080
No. 59
No. 69
Main Jet
.052
.051
High Speed Bleed
No. 70
No. 70
Power Jet-1st Stage
.028
.032
.067
.059
12-10 Ins. Vac.
12-10 Ins. Vac.
7-3 Ins. Vac.
12-10 Ins. Vac.
Lower hole
Lower hole
14-18
14-18
Thermostat Cover Index
Mean
Mean
Thermostat Lever
1.094
1.094
Modulator
.03
.03
Vacuum Kick
.160
.150
Cam Index
.160
.160
Wide open Throttle Kick
.250
.250
FUEL INLET SYSTEM
IDLE SYSTEM
Idle tube
MAIN FUEL SYSTEM
-2nd Stage
Power Jet Operation-1st Stage
-2nd Stage
PUMP SYSTEM Pump link position
Accelerator Pump Shot/1 0 Strokes (cc.)
AUTOMATIC CHOKE SETTINGS
TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS
Auto
500-525
475-500
Engine Idle Speed RPM
Manual
575-600
525-550
(Air Conditioning Operating if Equipped

and Head Lights on High Beam)
Fast Idle RPM- Kick Down Step
Manual
Auto
1350
1450
1150
1350
NOTE :-Idle tubes must be removed before removing main discharge tubes or jets are ruined.
NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour red- Service replacement cap colour black.
10-74
MOTORCRAFT Model 2100-0 2-V Carburettor
Carburetor Number (95101

CARBURETOR SIZE
Throttle Bore Diameter
Venturi diameter
Air Flow (cfml
FUEL INLET SYSTEM
Fuel Level (Wetl 1/32
Float Setting (Dryl 1/32
FUEL BOWL VENTS
Internal (21
IDLE SYSTEM
Idle Jet
Idle Bleed
Idle Channel Restriction
Idle Discharge Port
Idle Transfer Slot
Support Identification
MAIN FUEL SYSTEM
Main Metering Jet
High Speed Bleed
Anti-Syphon Bleed
Power Jet
Power Valve Timing (ln. Hg.l
Power Valve Identification
Air Distribution Plate
Spark Port
PUMP SYSTEM
Rod Position - Overtravel Lever
Pump Lever
Capacity/1 0 Strokes
Pump Jet Diameter
Pump Bleed
Pump Weight
CHOKE SYSTEM
Bi-metal & Cap Identification
Cap Setting
Pull down Setting .010
Idle Cam Clearance
Dechoke (Minimuml
Choke Air Restriction
Cam Identification
DASH POT
Adjustment - If equipped
1/64
IDLE SPEED
Idle rpm
Fast Idle rpm - Kickdown Step
TORQUE REQUIREMENT
Air Cleaner Anchor Screw
DOO~:_AAuto
B18F1 F- ~AA Manual
1.68
1.23
351
1.68
13/16
7/16
13/16
7/16
0.400
0.031
0 .110
0 .052
0 .089
0.030-0.200
SA
54F
0.038
0.031
0 .037
8 .5
Plain
Yes
0.050
1.21
351
(}.400
0.028
0.110
0.046
0.089
O.OJQ-0.200
CCB
61F
0.38
.100
0.045
7.5
Green
Yes
0.05X 0.085
No.4
B-lnboard
23.28
0 .031
0.012
Steel
No.3
Inboard
2Q-25
0.031
0.012
Alum.
TB4
1 Rich
.16-.18
. 14-.16
0.060
0.076
B
TB3
Index
0.240
0.210
0.060
0.093
B
1/8
550-575
1500
11-16 Ft.lbs.
1/8
575 500
1500
11-16 Ft.lbs.
Head lamps On - Air Conditioning On (If equipped I
NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour white- Service replacement cap colour blue.
10-75
PART 10-9. SPECIFICATIONS

MOTORCRAFT Model 4300 4-V Carburettor
888~ =~~ (Manual) '
DOOF - AC (Auto)
1.560
1.690
1.250
600
1.560
1.690
1.250
600
Carburetor Number (9510)

CARBURETOR SIZE
Throttle Bore Diameter - Primary
-Secondary
Venturi Diameter - Primary
Air Flow (cfm)
FUEL INLET SYSTEM
Float Setting 1/32
Supplemental (Aux i liary) Valve
Setting 1 /64
. 79-.85
1/16
1/16
FUEL BOWL VENTS

Internal (2)
7/32
7/32
IDLE SYSTEM
Idle Jet
Idle Bleed - 1st
-2nd
-3rd
Idle Channel Restriction
Idle Discharge Port
Idle Transfer Slot
0.026
0.046
None
None
None
0.082
0.028
0.026
0.055
None
None
None
0.082
0.028
MAIN FUEL SYSTEM

Main Metering Jet- Primary
-Secondary
High Speed Bleed - Primary
-Secondary
Anti Syphon Bleed - Primary
- Secondary
Power Valve Jet
Power Valve Timing- ln. Hg.
Air Valve Spring Color
Soark Port
61F
0.128
0.031
0.024
62F
0.128
0.035
0.024
0.022
0.059
7.5-8.5
Yellow
0.065
0.022
0.059
6-7
Yellow
0.065
PUMP SYSTEM
Lever Position (Hole Number)
Capacity/1 0 Strokes - cc 2cc
Pump Jet
Pump Stem Height 0.020
Pump Spring Color
2
15
0.028
0.425
Plain
2
18-8
0 .028
0.425
Plain
CHOKE SYSTEM
Bi-metal and Cap Identification
Cap Setting
Pulldown Setting
Fast Idle Cam Setting
Piston and Link Identification
Dechoke (Minimum)
Choke Air Restriction
Cam Identification
4TY
Index
.180
.160
No .2
0.300
0.078
K
4TX
Index
.200
.180
No.2
0.300
0.078
K
DASH POT
Adjustment (If Equipped)
0.080
0.080
650 675
550 575
550
1400
IDLE SPEED
Idle rpm*
Fast Idle rprn
79-.85
600
1250
Headlights on High beam- Air Conditioning on (if equipped)
NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour white- Service replacement cap colour blue.
10-76
GROUP
10- FUEL SYSTEM
CARBURETTOR AIR CLEANERS
Engme Application
Color /Description
Type
351 C-4V (GT)
Blue
Dry
351 C-2V
Blue
Dry
302 C.I.D. VB
Blue
Dry
200 & 250 C.I.D. IV
Blue
Orange
Dry
Dry
250 2V
MECHANICAL FUEL PUMPS
Fuel Pump Static Pressure-Psi @ 500 Engine rpm
8 Cyl.
6 Cyl.
4-6
3.5-5.0
Minimum Fuel Pump Volume-Flow@ 500 Engine

rpm
All 6-Cyl.
1 pint in 36 seconds
8-Cyl.
1 pint in 24 seconds
Minimum Intake Static Vacuum -
Inches of
Mercury@ 500 Engine rpm
. 6.0
All
Eccentric Total Lift
All 6-Cyl.
0.290-0.310
8-Cyl.
0.690-0.710
Fuel Tank Capacities
Sedan (incl. GT)
17.5 IMP. GALLONS
Station Wagon
16.0 IMP. GALLONS
Utility and Van
16.0 IMP. GALLONS
(RPO-GT only)
30.0 IMP. GALLONS
COOLING SYSTEM
GROUP
11
PAGE
PART 11-1- General Cooling System Service
11-2
PART 11-2-Water Pump and Fan Drive Clutch 11-5

PART 11-3-Radiator
11-10
PART 11-4-Specifications
11- 11
11-2
PART
11-1
GENERAL COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
Page

Trouble Diagnosis Guide
Cooling System Pressure Test
Thermostat Tests
2 Maintenance
Coolant-Cleaning Cooling System
Draining and Filling the Cooling System
Fan Drive Belts
This part covers general cooling

system service. For cooling system
11-2
11-2
11-3
11-3
11-3
11-3
11-3
11-3
Section
Page

Drive Belts
Fan Replacement
Fan Drive Belt Replacement
Radiator Hose Replacement
Thermostat Replacement
component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major repair
11-4
11-4
11-4
11-4
11-4
11-4
procedures and specifications, refer

to the pertinent part of this group.
DIAGNOSIS
Engine overheating and slow engine warm-up are the two engine
troubles most commonly attributed
to the cooling system.
Loss of coolant, thermostat stuck
in the closed position, restricted air
flow through the radiator, or accumulation of rust and scale in the
system are the main causes of overheating. Coolant Joss may, be due to
external leakage at the radiator,
radiator pressure cap, water pump,
hose connections, heater, or core
plugs. Coolant loss may also be

caused by internal leakage due to a
defective cylinder head gasket, improper tightening of the cylinder
head bolts, or warped cylinder head
or block gasket surfaces.
Internal leakage can be detected
by operating the engine at fast idle
and looking for the formation of
bubbles in the radiator. Oil in the
radiator may indicate leakage in the
engine block or a leak in the automatic transmission oil cooler. Water
formation on the oil level dipstick
could also be an indication of internal leakage.

Rust and scale that form in the
engine water passages are carried
into the radiator passages by the
circulation of the coolant. This clogs
the radiator passages and causes
overheating. Rust can be detected by
the appearance of the coolant. If
the coolant has a rusty or muddy
appearance, rust is present.
A defective thermostat that remains open will cause slow engine
warm-up.
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE.

ENGINE OVERHEATS
Belt tension incorrect.

Radiator fins obstructed.
Thermostat stuck closed, or otherwise defective.
Cooling system passages blocked
ENGINE FAILS TO REACH
NORMAL OPERATING
TEMPERATURE OR HAS
WRONG INDICATED
TEMPERATURE
Thermostat stuck open or of incorrect heat range.

Temperature sending unit defective (causing gauge to indicate low
engine temperature).
by rust, scale or other foreign matter.

Water pump inoperative.
Ignition initial timing incorrect.
Distributor advance incorrect.
Temperature gauge defective (not

indicating true engine temperature)
or incorrectly installed.
Incorrect temperature gauge indication.
PART 11-1- GENERAL COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE
LOSS OF COOLANT
TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE TEST
It is recommended that a cooling
system pressure test gauge be used
to properly test the system for:
1.. Blown or leaking cooling system sealing gaskets.
2. Internal or external coolant
leakage.
3. Pressure cap malfunction.
Many types of pressure gauges are
available for use. Therefore, it is
recommended that the gauge manu-
EJ
Leaking radiator, radiator supply

tank, or transmission oil cooler.
Loose or damaged hose connections.
Water pump leaking.
Cylinder head gasket defective.
Improper tightening of cylinder
facturer's instructions be followed
when performing the test. Never exceed the rated pressure indicated on
the pressure cap when performing
the pressure test.
THERMOSTAT TESTTHERMOSTAT REMOVED
It is good practice to test new
thermostats before installing them in
the engine.
Remove the thermostat and immerse it in boiling water. Replace
the thermostat if it does not open
more than '14 inch.
11-3
head bolts.
Cylinder block core plugs leaking.
Cracked cylinder head or block,
or warped cylinder head C?r block
gasket surface.
Radiator pressure cap defective
or wrong type.
If the problem being investigated
is insufficient heat, the thermostat
should be checked for leakage. This
may be done by holding the thermostat up to a lighted background.
Light leakage around the thermostat
valve (thermostat at room temperature) is unacceptable and the thermostat should be replaced. It is possible, on some thermostats, that a
slight leakage of light at one or two
locations on the perimeter of the
valve may be detected. This should

be considered normal.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
COOLANT
Correct coolant level is essential

for maximum circulation and adequate cooling. In addition, for the
cooling system to perform its function, it must receive proper care. This
includes periodic flushing of the entire system, keeping radiator fins
clean, and periodic inspection of the
cooling system for leakage.
Use care when removing the radiator cap, to avoid injury from escaping steam or hot water.
Radiator caps incorporate a red
pressure relief button.
Press this button to relieve internal
pressure before removing the cap.
To prevent the build up of rust,
sludge and other foreign material in
the cooling system, Ford radiator
inhibitor should be added to the
coolant. If it is found necessary to
remove build up of foreign material
from the cylinder block or radiator
owing to neglect of adding an
inhibitor, use Ford radiator cleaner
Rl-64. Removal of such material
restores cooling efficiency and avoids
over-heatmg.
In severe cases where cleaning
solvents will not properly clean the
cooling system for efficient operation,
it will be necessary to use the
pressure flushing method.
Various types of flushing equipment are available. If pressure flushing is used, make sure the cylinder
head bolts are properly tightened to

prevent possible water leakage into
the cylinders. Always remove the
thermostat prior to pressure flushing.
A pulsating or reversed direction
of flushing water flow will loosen
sediment more quickly than a steady
flow in the normal direction of coolant flow.
DRAINING AND FILLING
THE COOLING SYSTEM
To prevent loss of anti-freeze when
draining the radiator, attach a hose
on the radiator drain cock and drain
the anti-freeze from the radiator into
a clean container.
To drain the radiator, open the
drain cock located at the bottom of
the radiator. The 6-cylinder engine
block has one drain plug located at
the right rear of the cylinder block,
ahead of the starter (Fig. 1). The
V -8 engines have a drain plug on
each side of the cylinder block.
To fill the cooling system, close
the drain cock. Install the block
drain plug(s). Disconnect the heater
outlet hose at the water pump to
bleed or release trapped air in the
system. When the coolant begins to
escape, connect the heater outlet
hose.
Operate the engine until normal
operating temperature is reached,
and add more coolant, if necessary,
to fill the radiator to the proper
DRAIN PLUG
FIG. 1-Typical Cylinder

Block Drain Plug
level, one inch below bottom of
filler neck.
After the initial fill the coolant
level may drop approximately one
quart after the engine has been
operated about 20 minutes at 2000
rpm. This is due to the displacement of entrapped air. Refill to the
proper level.
FAN DRIVE BELTS
If the fan drive belt(s) are noisy,
check the tension of the belts to
make certain they are within specifications. Also, check for misaligned
pulleys. If the drive belts are worn
or frayed, replace them following
the procedures in Page 11-4.
11-4
EJ
GROUP 11- COOLING SYSTEM

ADJUSTMENTS
DRIVE BELTS
The fan drive belt(s) should be
properly adjusted at all times. A
loose drive belt(s) causes improper
alternator, fan and water pump
operation. A belt(s) that is too tight
places a severe strain on the water
pump and the alternator bearings.
Properly tensioned drive belts
minimize noise and also prolong
service life of the belt. Therefore, it
is recommended that a belt tension
gauge be used to check and adjust
the belt tension. Any belt that has
operated for a minimum of 10 minutes is considered a used belt, and
when adjusted, it must be adjusted to
the reset tension shown in the spedcations.
Belt Tension
1. Install the belt tension tool on
the drive belt (Fig. 2) and check

the tension following the instructions
of the tool manufacturer.
Tooi-T63L8620A
TO INSTALL
1. Position the fan and spacer on
the water pump hub and install
the lock washers and capscrews.
2. Torque the capscrews evenly
and alternately to specifications.
3. Refit the fan shroud if
applicable .
4. Adjust the fan belt to
specification.
FAN DRIVE BELT

REPLACEMENT
1. On a car with power steering,
loosen power steering pump bracket
at water pump. Remove drive belt.
2. Loosen alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts. Move alternator
toward engine. Remove the belt(s)
from alternator and crankcase pulleys,
and lift them over fan.
3. Place the belt(s) over the fan.
Insert the belt(s) in the water pump
pulley, crankshaft pulley and alternator pulley grooves. Adjust the belt
install the power steering pump drive
belt and tighten the pump bracket to
the water pump. Adjust the drive
belt tension to specifications.
RADIATOR HOSE
REPLACEMENT
FIG. 2-Checking Drive Belt

Tension
2. If adjustment is necessary
loosen alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts. Move alternator
away from engine until correct
tension is obtained. Tighten alternator adjusting arm and mounting
bolts.
FAN REPLACEMENT
ALL MODELS
TO REMOVE
1. Loosen the fan belt.
2. If a fan sl.;o ud is fitted remove
it from the radiator and lay it back
against the engine.
3. Remove capscrews and lock
washers retaining fan and spacer to
the water pump hub . Remove the fan
and spacer.
Radiator hoses should be replaced

whenever they become cracked,
rotted or have a tendency to collapse.
1. Drain radiator; then loosen the
clamps at each end of hose to be
removed . Slide hose off radiator connection and the cylinder head water
outlet or water pump connection.
2. Position the clamps at least t "
from each end of hose. Slide hose
on the connections. Make sure the
clam?S are beyond bead and
placed in the centre of clamping
surface of connections. Tighten
clamps. Fill radiator with coolant.
Operate engine for several minutes;
then check the hoses and connections
for leaks. Check for proper coolant
level after the engine has reached
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
A poppet-type thermostat is
mounted in a recess in the coolant
outlet passage at the front of the intake manifold on the V-8 engines.
On 6-cylinder engines, the thermostat is located in the coolant outlet
passage at the front of the cylinder
head. When the thermostat is closed,
coolant flows to the water pump
through a bypass passage at the
front of the engine. When the thermostat is open, coolant flows through
the coolant outlet elbow (thermostat housing) to the radiator.
The thermostat used in production
is for use with water or permanenttype anti-freeze. For operating temperatures, refer to specifications.
Check the thermostat before inslalling it following the procedure
under "Thermostat Test", Page 11-3.
Do not attempt to repair the
thermostat. It should be replaced if
it is not operating properly.
Removal
1. Drain cooling system below level
of the coolant outlet housing.
2. Remove coolant outlet housing
retaining bolts and slide housing
(with hose attached) to one side.
3. Remove thermostat and gasket.
Installation
1. Clean coolant outlet housing and

cylinder head surface. Coat a new
coolant outlet housing gasket with
sealer. Position gasket on cylinder
head or intake manifold (V -8).
The gasket must be positioned on
cylinder head or intake manifold
before thermostat is installed.
2. Coat edge of thermostat with
grease for thermostat adhesion. Position thermostat in recess of coolant
outlet housing so that copper pellet
or heat element will be in the cylinder
head or intake manifold (V-8).
Install thermostat with the word
TOP toward the top of the engine
and valve end of thermostat facing
outward. If thermostat is improperly positioned, it will cause the
engine to overheat.
3. Fill radiator. Operate engine and
check for coolant leaks and proper
coolant level after engine reaches
11-5
PART
11-2
WATER PUMP
Page
Section
Six C~ linde r Engines
V8 Engines
11-6
Six Cylinder Engines
11-6
V8 Engines
Fan Drive Clutch
11-8
11-8
engine when the thermostat is closed,

bypassing the radiator. On the 6cylinder engines, the water pump
bypass passage is aligned with the
bypass passage in the cylinder block
for coolant circulation in the engine
when the thermostat is dosed.
A vane-type, impeller supplies
coolant through centrifugal action
to the water pump outlet port on
6-cylinder engines. On the V-8 engines, the water pump has two out-
let ports, one for each cylinder bank,

to provide uniform coolant circulation in both banks of the engine.
The water pumps have a sealed
bearing integral with the water
pump shaft. The bearing requires no
lubrication. A bleed hole in the water
pump housing allows water that may
leak past the seal to be thrown out
by the slinger. This is not a lubrication hole.
The cooling fan hub is pressed a
specified distance onto the water
pump shaft.
SIX CYLINDER ENGINES

REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system.
On a car with power steering.

remove the power steering drive belt.
2. Disconnect the radiator lower
hose at the water pump. Remove
the drive belt, fan, spacer and
water pump pulley.
3. Disconnect the heater hose at

the water pump.
4. Remove the water pump.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the gasket surfaces on

the water pump and cylinder block.
l. Coat a new gasket on both
sides with water-resistant sealer and
position it on the cylinder block.
3. Position the water pump in
place and install the lock washers
and retaining bolts (the alternator
adjusting arm is retained by one
water pump bolt). Torque the bolts
lO specifications.*
On 6-cylinder engines, a centrifugal-type water pump is mounted

on the front of the cylinder block.
On V-8 engines, the centrifugal-type
water pump is mounted on the
cylinder front cover. The water pump
inlet port is connected to the radiator
bottom tank to draw coolant from
the radiator when the thermostat is
open. On the V-8 engines, a bypass
port on the water pump is connected
to the coolant outlet housing to
permit coolant circulation within the
El
11-5
11-5
11-5
11-5
Page
Section
4. Connect the radiator lower

hose and the heater hose to the water
pump.
5. Install the water pump pulley,
fan spacer and fan . Torque the
bolts evenly and alternately to
specifications.
6. Install ihe drive belt and adjust the tension to specifications.
On a car with power steering, install the drive belt and adjust the tension to specifications.
On a car with air conditioner, install the compressor drive belt and
adjust the tension to specifications.
7. Fill and bleed the cooling system . Operate the engine until normal
Check for leaks and check the
coolant level.
V-8 ENGINES
REMOVAL

2. Remove the fan shroud attach-
ing bolts and pos1t1on the shroud

rearward if so equipped.
3. Remove the fan and spacer from
4. Remove the air conditioner
compressor drive belt lower idler
pulley and compressor mount to
water pump bracket, if so equipped.
5. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt.
6. If equipped with power steering, loosen the power steering pump
and remove the drive belt.
8. Remove alternator bracket from
water pump and position it out of the
way.
9. If.equipped with power steering, remove the power steering pump
bracket from the water pump and
position it out of the way.
10. Remove the heater hose from
the water pump.
11. Disconnect the lower radiator
hose at the water pump.
12. Remove the water pump at-
CAUTION: -When installing pump retaining bolts ensure that the longest bolt is fitted to the hole where the alternator
mounting bracket is located, otherwise damage to the engine block will occur.
11-6
taching bolts and remove the water
pump.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove all gasket material from
the mounting surfaces of the cylinder
front cover and water pump.
2. Position a new gasket, coated on
both sides with sealer, on the cylinder
front cover; then install the pump.
Coat the threads of the attaching
screws with oil-resistant sealer and
install the screws. Tighten the attach-
EJ
ing screws to specifications.

3. Install the air conditioner compressor to water pump bracket and
lower idler pulley, if so equipped.
4. Position the alternator bracket
and power steering pump bracket, if
so equipped, on the water pump and
install the bracket bolts.
on the water pump shaft and install
the drive belts.

bolts, if so equipped.
8. Adjust the drive belts to specifications.
9. Connect the lower radiator hose
at the water pump.
10. Connect the heater hose at the
water pump.
11. Connect the battery cable. Fill
and bleed the cooling system. Operate
the engine until normal operating
temperature has been reached and
check for leaks.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS (6 Cyl. Engines)
DISASSEMBLY
The water pump assembly is
shown in Fig. 1.
1. Remove the hub from the impeller shaft (Fig. 9).
2. Position the pump on an arbor

press and press the shaft and bearing
out of the housing (Fig. 3), using the
straight end of tool T70PG-8530-A.
3. Remove the impeller from the
shaft (Fig. 4).
ASSEMBLY
1. Clean all gasket material from
the pump.
6. Support the assembly on the

impeller end of the shaft. Position
the water pump hub over the shaft
and press it into place, (Fig. 8),
holding the specified distance from
the housing mounting face to the
hub front face.
T70PG-8530-A .
2. Coat the bearing outer diameter with grease, and position the
shaft and bearing on the housing.
Using the flanged end of tool T70PG~
8530-A against the bearing, press the
shaft and bearing assembly into the
housing until the outer end of the
bearing is flush with the outer face
of the pump housing to within
.003 inches.
FIG. 1- Water Pump 6 Cyl.

3. Apply a light film of waterproof sealer on a new s~l an~ press
the seal into the housmg (F1g. 6),
using tool T70PG-8564-A.
FIG. 3-Shaft and Bearina Removal

4.- Replace the impeller if it is
worn or damaged.
NOTE
If the water pump seal is removed from the pump or shaft
for any reason a new seal must
be fitted on reassembly.
FIG. 2- Hub Removal
5. Press the shaft into the impeller

(Fig. 7). The impeller rear face to
pump mounting surface ~hould ~e
0.525-0.535 inch after the 1mpeller 1s
installed as shown in the assembly
drawing (Fig. 1).
FIG. 4 -Impeller Removal
PART 11-2- WATER PUMP
11-7
Arbor Preu Rom
AND BEARING
IMPELLER
FIG. 5- Shaft and

Bearing Installation
FIG.7-Impeller Installation
FIG. 8 - Hub Installation
Drift
SMALLER
DIAMETER
THAN S~IAFT
FIG. 6- Seal Installation 6 Cyl.

FIG. 9 -Hub Removal
11-8
_ _ _ _ _ 6/,8:_ _ _.....
614~
1 - - - - - - 570'' - - - o - i
050"
THIS DIMENSION
030""
MUST BE-MAINTAINED
FROM EXTREME SURFACE
OF IMPELLER
FIG. 10-302-351 VB Water

Pump Assembly Dimensions
FIG. 11 -Water Pump Removal

302-351 WATER PUMP OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY
1. Position the pump on an arbor
press and press the hub off the shaft.
2. Press the shaft and impeller and
the seal assembly out of the housing
using a cylindrical support.
NOTE:
The impeller cannot be separated
from the shaft without damage to the
ceramic seal face and a new ceramic
seal must be fitted should the
impeller be removed.
Should a steel impeller be fitted,
pressure may only be applied to
sleeve of the impeller.
CAUTION
Do not allow oil or grease to
contact the ceramic seal face.
4. Position the impeller on the
shaft and press impeller and ceramic
seal on to shaft until a dimension of
6.138/6.146 is obtained from the
pulley end of the shaft to the
extremity of the impeller (Fig. 10).
5. Position the pulley hub on the
shaft and press on until a dimension
of 5.70" is obtained from the hub
face to the housing mounting face.
(Fig. 10).
FAN DRIVE CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply a light film of waterproof sealer on a new seal and press
the seal into the housing.
DESCRIPTION
2. Coat the outer diameter of the

bearing lightly with grease, and press
the shaft and bearing into the pump
housing. Press the shaft and bearing
into the housing until the bearing is
flush with the housing hub.
3. Carefully press the ceramicfaced seal onto the shaft approximately!-"-
The fan clutch (Figs. 12, 13 and 14)

permits use of a powerful fan without
paying the penalty of power loss or
noise. The fan clutch is a mechanical
device which provides maximum air
flow through the radiator when required, and a minimum air flow when
less than maximum cooling is necessary . It can modulate between the
maximum and the minimum air flows

according to conditions, and it limits
fan speed to a maximum rpm, beyond
a given engine input speed .
The viscous fluid shear principle in
general is applied to fan clutch design
in the following manner :
A drive plate totally enclosed within the clutch housing is attached directly to the clutch input shaft (assembled to the water pump shaft and
pulley). A predetermined clearance
between the drive plate and the inner
surfaces of the clutch housing is established -at assembly .
The clutch housing and the fan
blade assembly are mounted to the
input shaft by a sealed bearing and
are free to rotate independently of the
drive plate and input shaft.
The interior chamber of the clutch
housing is filled with a given amount
of silicon base oil. Centrifugal force
resulting from the rotation of the
clutch. coupled with the constant
pumping action designed into the unit
forces the silicon base oil evenly
about the inner surfaces of the clutch
in the close clearance or drive area .
The drag between the driving and the
driven members is thus increased by
the presence of the oil, causing the
clutch action.
A control valve (operated by a tern perature-sensitive bi-metal coi I or
strip in the air stream on the front of
the clutch) regulates the amount of oil
pumped in or out of the close clear-
PART 11-2- WATER PUMP

FAN DRIVE CLUTCH
FIG. 12 Typical Fan Drive Clutch

Installation
ance (drive) area. This action determines the fan speed in relation to the
drive pulley and the radiator core air
flow temperature.
OPERATION
START-UP
At start-up, or after a prolonged
engine shut-down period, near maximum fan noise can be heard as the
fan clutch fluid is forced into the
close clearance area by centrifugal
force, resulting in maximum application of the clutch . As the normal operating temperature is reached, the
amount of fluid allowed to remain in
the close clearance area is regulated
by the temperature-sensitive control
valve. This determines fan speed in
relation to the fan drive pulley and
the radiator core air flow temperature.
RUNNING-LOW AMBIENT
TEMPERATURE
After the initial start-up cycle has
been completed, and as long as the
air flowing through the radiator core
does not exceed 150- 180 degrees F
temperature, the fan clutch will remain in or near the maximum slip
position. During this cycle, the control valve allows a minimum amount
of fluid to remain in the close clearance (drive) area.
RUNNING-HIGH AMBIENT
TEMPERATURE
As ambient temperatures increase,
or air flow temperatures through the
core become increasingly higher, additional cooling is required. The bimetal coil or strip senses this change
11-9
BIMETAL STRIP
CONTROL
PIST~
BI-METAL SPRING
8 1932 - C
826318
FIG. 13 - Fan Drive Clutch With

Flat Bi-Metal Spring
and moves the control valve to the
minimum slip position, retaining a
maximum amount of oil in the close
clearance area .
FIG. 14 -Fan Drive Clutch With

Coil Bi-Metal Spring
3. Remove the retaining capscrews
and separate the fan from the drive
clutch .
INSTALLATION
MODULATING CYCLE
As vehicle operation varies with
heavy to light traffic, terrain, etc., the
fan clutch operates within the high
and low rpm positions, modulating as
required as ambient air flow through
the radiator core changes .
HIGH SPEED SUSTAINED
OPERATION
I. Position the fan on the drive

clutch . Install the capscrews.
2. Position the fan drive clutch and
fan assembly to the water pump hub
(Fig. I). Install and torque the retaining capscrews evenly and alternatel y
to specifications. Then, check the fan
drive clutch flange-to-water pump hub
for proper mating. Adjust the fan belt
3. Re-install the radiator shroud.
During high speed operation, fan

clutch action will limit speed of the
fan to a given maximum rpm . This
will occur under hot or cold conditions.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the radiator shroud

attaching bolts and lay the shroud
back toward the engine.
2. Loosen the fan belt. Remove the
capscrews retaining the fan drive
clutch to water pump hub (Fig. 1).
Remove the fan drive clutch and fan
as an assembly.
TORQUE VALUES (ALL CARS)

NOTE: All specifiutions are aiven in ftlbs unless otherwise noted.
Fan to Fan Clutch (With A/C) All Engines
10-15
Enaine RPM Required Fan Test Speed @ 2000 Water Pump RPM
To Run Water Pump
Minimum Slip
Maximum Slip
2000 RPM<D
(Hot) <D
(Cold) <D
1695
1500
1750
11-10
PART
11-3
RADIATOR
Section
Pare
1 Desr.ription and Operation
Pare
11-10
The radiators are of the tube and

fin-core type with the tubes arranged for vertical or horizontal coolant flow .
Two header-tanks, one at each end of
the core provide uniform distribution
of the coolant to the tubes. The
EJ
11-10
Section
radiator outlet port is connected to

the water pump inlet port. The
radiator inlet port is connected to
the coolant outlet housing of the
engine, thereby permitting coolant
circulation through the radiator
when the thermostat is open.

An oil cooler coil is located in the radiator
outlet header-tank to cool transmission
fluid for automatic transmission vehicles.
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system. Dis

connect the radiator coolant hoses
at the radiator.
2. On a car with automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler
lines at the radiator.
3. Remove fan shroud attaching
bolts and position the shroud rearward, if so equipped.
4. Remove the radiator support
bolts and remove the radiator.
INSTALLATION
1. If a new radiator is to be in-
stalled, remove the drain cock from

the old radiator and install it in the
new radiator. On a car with automatic transmission, remove the oil
cooler line fittings from the old radia
tor, and install them in the new
radiator, using oil-resistant sealer.
:Z. Position the radiator assembly
and install the support bolts.
3. Connect the radiator coolant
hoses.
On a car with automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler lines

and re-install the fan shroud if
previously removed.
4. Close the drain cock. Fill and

bleed the cooling system.
5. Operate the engine and check
for leaks at the hose connections and
the automatic transmission oil cooler
Jines. Check the automatic transmiJsion fluid level.
FIG. 15- Installation Cross Flow Radiator and Shroud. All 302-351-2V 250 with AiC
11- J J
PART
114
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE VALUES
Ft. Lbs.
Water pump to cylinder block (or cylinder front cover) all engines 12-15
Water outlet housing all engines
12-15
Fan and spacer to pulley hub all engines
10-15
Radiator to support all engines
8-13
Radiator to engine hose clamps all engines
1.0-2.5
Transmission oil cooler tube nut to radiator connection ALL
10-15
Fan shrouds are fitted to 250 a/c, all 302 and 351 engines. *
* Fan blade radial clearance to

shroud- 0.75 inches.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Cooling system capacity (quarts)*
200-250
7.5
302 351
12.9
*Includes heater. if deleted, subtract one quart
NOTE : Air conditioned vehicles are fitted with extra heavy duty radiators. Prior to replacement of these units refer to
the parts catalogue for correct part number.
THERMOSTAT
Opens F
Fully Open F
200 & 260

0
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY

DJMENSIONS
Front face of pulley hub to pump
housing face
Impeller blade to housing clearance
Pump housing face to rear face of
impeller
0
DRIVE BELT TENSION (Lbs.)

Single belt
6-Cylinder air conditioned
(dual belts)
Front
Rear
Power steering
0
0.
188-195
210-212
302-351
188-195
210-212
3.94
.044-.054
5.70
.030-.050
0.525-0.535
0.066-0.094
NEW
110-140
USED
80-110
NEW
110-140
USED
80-110
110-140
105-155
120-150
80-110
75-120
90-120
120-150
90-120
11-12
ENGINE

TRANS
FINS
PER
INCH
20.29" Down Flow

20.29" Down Flow
20.29" Down Flow
20.29" Down Flow
2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud
9
9
IO
IO
9
250 CID IV AutoA/C
2I .7" Cross Flow and Shroud
250 CID 2V Manual

250 CID 2V Auto
250 CID 2V Manual A/C
20.29" Down Flow

20.29" Down Flow
IO
IO
9
250 CID 2V Auto A/C
21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud
302 CID
302 CID
302 CID
302 CID
351 CID 2V
351 CID 2V
35I CID 2V
351 CID 2V
35I CID 4V
35I CID 4V
351 CID 4V
35I CID 4V

IO
I2
I4
I4
10
IO
I3
I3
I2
I4
I2
I2
200
200
250
250
250
Manual
CID
CID
Auto
CID IV Manual
CID IV Auto
CID IV Manual A/C
RADIATOR CORE
WIDTH&TYPE
Manual
Auto
Manual A/C
Auto A/C
Manual
Auto
Manual A/C
Auto A/C
Manual
Auto
Manual A/C
Auto A/C
FAN No. OF
BLADES X DIA.
FAN
RATIO
PVS
VALUE
4xi7.5"
4x I7.5"
4x I7.5"
4 X I7.5"
6 X I7 .0"
Viscous Clutch
6 X I7 .0"
Viscous Clutch
4 X I7.5"
4 X I7 .5"
6 X 17.0"
Viscous Clutch
6 X I7.0"
Viscous Clutch
4 X I7.5"
4x I7.5"
5 X I7.5"
5 X I7.5"
4 X I7 .5"
4 I7.5"
7 X I7 .5"
7 X 17.5"
4 X I7.5"
4 X I7 .5"
7 X 17.5"
7 X I7.5"
1.05
1.05
1.05
1.05
1.18
No
No
No
No
Yes
1.18
Yes
1.05
1.05
1.18
Yes
Yes
Yes
1.18
Yes
0.96
0.96
1.13
1.13
0 .96
0.96
1.13
1.13
0.96
0.96
1.13
1.13
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
EXHAUST SYSTEM
GROUP
12
PAGE
PART 12-1-General Exhaust System Service
12-2
PART 12-2-Exhaust Pipes and Muffler
12-3
PART 12-3-Specifications
12-19
12-2
PART
12-1
GENERAL EXHAUST SYSTEM SERVICE

Pa1e
Section
lZ-2
.... 12-2
1 Diagnosis and Testinc

2 Common Adjustment. and Repairs
This part covers general exhaust

system diagnosis, tests, adjustment
and repair procedures. In addition,
the cleaning and inspection procedures are covered.
External leaks in the exhaust system are often accompanied by

noises or greyish-white smnke emitted
from under the car. Small leaks are
EJ
For exhaust system component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major repair procedures and
specifications, refer to the pertinent
part of this group.
usually inaudible and not visible. A

visual inspection of the exhaust system usually will show the location of
a leak. Look for holes, ruptured
joints and eroded areas in the muffter(s), resonator(s), inlet pipe(s)
and outlet pipe(s). Examine joints
and connections for greyish white deposits that would be caused by exhaust gas leakage.
A misaligned exhaust system is
usually indicated by vibration,
grounding, rattling, or binding of the
components. Often the associated
ADJUSTMENTS
The exhaust system must be free
of leaks, binds, grounding and excessive vibration.
Exhaust system vibration, grounding or binds are usually caused by:
loose, broken or improperly aligned
clamps, or brackets, or improperly
connected pipes. Any of the aforementioned conditions may cause
changes to clearances of the exhaust
system components. If any of these
conditions exist, the exhaust system
components must be checked, adjusted or replaced to make certain
the specified clearances (refer to the
illustrations in Part ll-2) are maintained.
EJ
3 Cleaninc and Inspection .... ...
DIAGNOSIS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
An exhaust system performance
complaint, such as excessive back
pressure is usually noticeable by its
effect on engine performance.
For diagnosis of exhaust system
problems that affect engine performances, refer to Part 8-1, Section 1.
Pa1e
Section
EXHAUST SYSTEM
ALIGNMENT
Refer to the pertinent illustration
in Part 12-2 for the clearance specifications and location of components.
Perform the following procedure to
adjust the exhaust system components:
1. Loosen the pipe connection
clamps and the pipe support bracket
clamp(s). Loosen the inlet pipe to
exhaust manifold retaining nuts.
l. Torque the exhaust manifold to
inlet pipe retaining nuts evenly and
alternately to specification to insure
uniform pressure on the seal and inlet pipe ftange.
12-2

Catalog for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a com-
ponent part of the exhaust system.
noise is hard to distinguish from other
chassis noises. Look for broken or
loose clamps and brackets and replace or tighten as necessary. It is
important from a noise, vibration or
harshness point of view, that exhaust
clearances and setting procedures as
shown in Figures 1 through 14 be adhered to when ever repairs involving
the exhaust system are carried out.
As some of the exhaust system to
body clearances are relatively small,
ensure they are set to specification
before replacing components in an
endeavour to correct a noise,
vibration or harshness problem.
3. Work from the front of the car
toward the rear and progressively adjust the exhaust system components
and clamps at the various pipe connections to relieve binds and improper pipe connections. Be sure the
Inlet and outlet pipa and muftlen
are aligned so that all clearances are
within the limits shown on the Illustrations In Part 12-l. Then torque
the clamps to specification.
4. Check the exhaust system for
leaks.
MUFFLERS, INLET PIPES AND
OUTLET PIPES
Brackets, clamps and insulaton
should be replaced if they are defec
tive or become badly corroded. Do
not attempt repair of these parts.
EXHAUST SYSRM
INSPECTION
Inspect the inlet pipe(s), outlet
pipe(s), and muffler for cracked
joints, broken welds and corrosion
damage (holes) that would result in

a leaking exhaust system. Inspect
the clamps, brackets and insulators
for cracks and stripped or badly
corroded bolt threads. When pipe
clamp{s) are loosened, and/ or removed to replace a pipe or muffler,

replace the clamp(s), if there is
reasonable doubt that its service
life is limited.
12-3
PART
EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS
122
Seetioa
1
Pare
Description
Pare
12-3
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust systems for the

various car models are shown in
Figs. 1 to 14.
SINGLE EXHAUST SYSTEMS

The single exhaust system on cars
with a six cylinder engine (Fig. 1)
consists of a muffler inlet pipe,
muffler with integral inlet pipe
extension and outlet pipe.
EJ
12-3
Section
The single exhaust system on cars

with a V-8 engine (Fig. 2) consists
of a Y -type muffler inlet pipe,
muffler with integral inlet pipe
extension and outlet pipe.
brackets eliminate tension on the

supports due to thermal expansion
of the system.
DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM

The location and type of exhaust
system gaskets, retaining clamps and
loop-type support brackets are shown
in the respective exhaust system
illustrations. The loop-type support
The dual exhaust system consists

of an H-type inlet pipe and an inlet
pipe extension, muffler, and outlet
pipe for each side.
The replacement procedures given

apply to all car models. Typical
exhaust systems for the various
car models are shown in Figs. 1
to 14.
MUFFLER ASS EMILY

REMOVAL
1. Loosen the inlet pipe clamp at
the front end of the muffler inlet
pipe extension, and slide the clamp
forward onto the inlet pipe.
2. Loosen the outlet pipe clamp

at the rear end of the muffler, and
retain the clamp on the muffler loop
mount.
3. Loosen the outlet pipe clamp
at the rear loop mount.
12-4
GROUP 12- EXHAUST PIPES AND MUFFLER
4. Support the inlet and outlet

pipes with soft wire.
5. Separate the muffler from the
inlet and outlet pipes and remove
the muffler.
6. Replace any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION
1. Slide the muffler onto the inlet pipe, and position the inlet pipe
to muffler inlet pipe extension
clamp.
2. Slide the outlet pipe into the
muffler and position the outlet pipe
to muffler clamp.
3. Adjust the exhaust system
components to conform to the clearances shown in Fig. 1 to 14 and torque
the retaining clamps to specifications. Remove temporary support wires.
exhaust system for leaks.
INLET PIPE
6 CYLINDER ENGINE
REMOVAL
1. Loosen the inlet pipe clamp at
pipe extension and slide the clamp
rearward onto the inlet pipe extension.
1. Install a new gasket on the

flared end of the inlet pipe. Slide
the clamp onto the inlet pipe which
attaches the inlet pipe to the flywheel/ converter housing support
bracket.
2. Install the ihlet pipe to the

muffler inlet pipe extension and
exhaust manifold. Position the inlet pipe flan~. e and install the retaining nuts on the !ltuds of the
manifold snug, but not tight.
3. Position the inlet pipe to the
muffler inlet pipe extension clamp.
Position the inlet pipe to the flywheel ; convertor housing support
!:racket clamp. Remove the temporary support wire.
components to conform to the clearances shown in Figs. 1-7. Working from the
front of the car toward the rear,
progressively torque the retaining
nuts and clamps to specifications.
INLET PIPE
VB ENGINE
3. Support the front end of the

muffler inlet pipe extension with
soft wire.
4. Remove the nuts that secure
the inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold. Separate the inlet pipe from
the exhaust manifold and muffler
inlet pipe extension and remove the
inlet pipe.
5. Clean the gasket surface of

6. Discard the gasket and replace
any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION
During reassembly of the 250 2V

exhaust manifold, it is advisable to reassemble the manifold to cylinder head
bolts, starting from the back of the engine.
This is recommended as misalignment of
the bolt holes due to distortion can
occur with this type of exhaust manifold.
1. Install l'lew gaskets on

flared ends of the inlet pipe.

components to conform to the clearances shown in Figs. 8-14. Working from
the front of the car toward the rear,
progressively torque the retain ing
nuts and clamps to specifications.

OUTLET PIPE
ALL MODELS
REMOVAL
1. Loosen the outlet pipe(s) clamp
at the rear end of the muffler(s) and
retain the clamp on the muffler(s) loop
mount.
3. Remove the outlet pipe(s) clamp

at the rear loop mount.
1. Loosen the inlet pipe(s) clamp(s) at

pipe extension, and slide the clanip(s)
rearward onto the inlet pipe extension.
l. Support the front end of the
muffler inlet pipe(s) extension with
soft wire.
3. Remove the nuts that secure
the inlet pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Separate the inlet pipe from
the exhaust manifolds and muffler
inlet pipe extension and remove the
inlet pipe.
4. Clean the gasket surface of
the exhaust manifolds.
5. Discard the gaskets and replace any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION
3. Position the inlet pipe to the

muffler inlet pipe extension clamp.
Remove the temporary support wire.
l. Support the rear end of muffier(s)

with soft wire.
REMOVAL
2. Remove the clamp attaching
the inlet pipe to the flywheel/converter housing support bracket.
pipe flanges and install the retaining nuts on the studs of the manifold snug, but not tight.
4. Separate the outlet pipe(s) from

the JLuffler(s) and remove the outlet
pipe(s).
INSTALLATION
1. Slide the outlet pipe(s) into the
rear end of the muffler(s) and position
the outlet pipe to the muffler clamp.
l. Slide the clamp for the rear

loop mount onto the outlet pipe(s)
and position the clamp on the loop
amount. Remove the temporary sup
port wire.
the
3. Adjust the exhaust systems com,JOnents to conform to the clearances

shown in Fig. 1-14 and torque the retaining clamps to specifications.
2. Install the inlet pipe to the

muffler inlet pipe extension and exhaust manifolds. Position the inlet

A
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END OF STUD WITH SfORTEST THRE/4.[) LENGTH
TO 8 SCREWED INTO MAN/FOil)
TIGHTEN SEO.Jf/ELY
lsj25 UJ. FT MIX.
THESE CLEARANCES MUSr BE HCUJ AND CCNTlKJLLED

{)(M<NSKJIVS SHOWN WI THOIIT 70LERAAC ARE
5-1246
FOR QUAUTY AUDIT RJRPDSE THE 10/.ER"-NCE

ON niESE OIMENSIOAIS ARE :t. .25 l.IYLSS
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oF 7H EXHAUST"
SYSTEM TH FDll.OWING CPRATIONS MUST

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381877-52
...
T"H MANIFOLD CONNECTION Mt.JSr BE SECURE
Til INTERMEf)ti(T
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ASSY. S..240 INS7J4/.J.EO
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SYSTFM THE roLJ.OWING OPERA!'IONS MUST
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ASSEMBLJES
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roR QUCUTY AUDIT PURPOSE THE TOLERANCE
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381877- 52
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-~
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SECTION 8 8
MGalS 54 E;G
SECTION A -A
FAIRI.ANE
!f02
f S!51 U
NSTALLATION
FIG. 11
(SJNGI.)
-U~
SI31FM.
-.-...
V1
-~
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-SA24'-
AS5~
AFTEJ< ASSEMBLY. tOWER /WET OF H'.NGER

J.SSEM&IES TO BE POSIT/CW0 .3!1 fOI<WAI/0
-Q-
END OF STUD WITH ~TEST T>IREAD LENGTH

70 BE S~WEO IMV MAN/f'CLD.
2 RE<;J'D.
OF uPPER RNET
536
THESE CLEARANCES MUST BE HELtf AND CONTROlLED
[)IMENSJO/I.IS SHOWN WITHOt./T 70LERAJ<: ARE

FOR QUA.LITY AU0/7 PURPOSE THE TOLE!Vo.NCE
ON ntESE DIMENSIONs AI< :. 25 LNLESS
OTHERWISE SHOWN
TO INSURE PROPER POSITIONING OF THE EXH.AlJ.Sr
SYSTEM TN FOLLOII'IING OOERATIONS MUST
BE fOLLOWED.
nt' M#Jin::>LD CONNE'CTION Musr BE SKURE
TilE WTERM[)1,<J IW.GER AS5Y. 5<246 NSTIV..L0
THE MUFFLR ASSY 5230 ( 5232 AND INLET PiPE
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80Dt' RELATIONSHIP GAJJG0 BEFORE MI.IFFLER
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SA272 ARC TJGHTND.
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TYPICAL 2 PtACS .
c:52 -
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MANIFOLD Fl.Af.JQE
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PLACES
TIGHTN Mn:S ALTEI<NATELY AND flENLY 70

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~1.3
Sf ... B.C,O
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(DUAL)
I<$ALLATION - )fiiii{.6.T Sl:STEM.
FIG. 12
-SA2,
(2 k9~)
ASSY.
40tNI- 3310
(2 /2Q 'D)
JQQ-SJcr.
(4R)
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"
AFTE"' ASSEMBLY. tO>IER /WET OF H<.NGER

ASSEMBLIES TV BE POSIT/ON0 .36 Jt>RWA.Q?
OF tiPPER RNET.
END OF STUD WI TH ~TEST T}(RQ.[) LENGTH

TV 8E ~WED INTO W.NIFCI-D.
THESE CLEARANCES MUS T BE HELD AND CONTROI.LEC
OIMEN SK)N$ SHOWN WIT/10(/T 10/._ERAI'.C ARE

FOR f;U< U TY AUDIT PURPOSE THE mLEIMNC
ON TWES DIMeNSIONS ARE ~ - 25 LNLESS
OTHERWISE SJ.IOWAJ.
(2 QEQ'D)
7111;/,'TPJ SECURELY
/2. UJ.rr hi<IX. .9CIIlEW

M/IST' BE CVTB0411D
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AT45fso'10 ICRIZDNTJ4L
THE MAN!roLD CON..'ff:TKJN MUST 8E SR:URE

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(2 .PEQ'D)
.ot.
AFTFI? ASSEM8L Y. LOWER liWET OF H'.NGER

ASSEMBLIES TO BE POSITION<D . .3!1 roRWAAI?
OF VPPER IWET:
END OF STUD WITH SIORTEST TI<REA.D LENGTH

TO BE SCREWED JNTIJ MAN/FOLD.
F/IOM 'iii/F"ACE
OF MANIFOI. 0 rtANC
THESE CLEARANCES MUST BE HELD ~ND CONTRolLED

{);MENSJON$ SHOWN WITHO/JT 7'0/.ERANCE ARE
FOR /)'-"'LITY AUOt7 PURPOSE THE Tl'li.ERA.NC
ON T>;SE OtMENSIDNS ARE : . 2S LNLESS
OTHERWISE $H()WN.
-.
I'IW N CII!CtE
TO INSURE PI(()PR POSITIONING OF THE EXHAUST
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8E I'OLLOWED.
2' c;,Z>
-fSSEMBLE CLMIP
SY'-fET~Y
TilE ~roLD CONNIXTION
A8a/T' VERTICAl.
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THE WTERME()I.VE HAI>.GER ASSY. 5.<0246 NST>tLLD

THE ~FFLER ASSY 5230 ( ~32 A'IJO INLET i>/P
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RAR St.i'f'Oilr.(RVJ
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FIG. 14
c-n
-n
,....
(DI.W.. .)
9'31'EM
12-19
PART
123
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE LIMITS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Ft.
LM.
Inlet Pipe(s) to Exhaust Manifold(s)
25-36
Inlet Pipe to Inlet Pipe Extension Clamp
20-28
Outlet Pipe to Muffler Clamp
20-28
Support Brackets and Insulators to Frame Nut!
15-25
Support Insulator Bracket to Muffler

Support Insulator Clamp to Tailpipe
250-2V Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head
5-7
10-14
10-14

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
CHARGING SYSTEM
GROUP
13
PAGE
PART 13-1-General Charging System Service
13-2
PART 13-2-Bosch Alternator
13-15
PART 13-3-lucas
13-18
Alternator
PART 13-4- Bosch Alternator Regulator
13-22
PART 13-5-lucas
13-26
Alternator Regulator
PART 13-6-Specifkations
13-30
13-2
PART
13-1
GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
Page
1 Diagnosis
13-2
Battery Low in Charge, Headlights Dim at
Idle .. .
13-4
Charge Indicator Light Stays On ....
13-4
Lights and Fuses Fail Prematurely,
Short Battery Life ........ ... .
13-4
Alternator Noisy ...
13-4
Warning Light Flickers ...
13-4
Section
Page
2 Testing
Alternator Test
Testing the Altenator System
Battery Tests and Conclusions ....
Belt Adjustment
13-7
13-7
13-7
13-11
13-13
13-13
13-13
CHARGING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
The charging system consists of

an alternator, alternator regulator,
battery, charge indicator light
and the necessary wiring to connect the
components (Figs. 2 & 3).
Four different alternators are used
in the XA/ZF model range.
1. Bosch - 40 amp with remote
regulator.
2. Lucas
40 amp with integral
regulator.
3. Lucas - 55 amp with integral
regulator.
4. Lucas - 55 amp with remote
regulator.
For model application refer to
Specifications.
Battery discharge is not always

due to charging system defects.
Excessive use of lights and accessories while the engine is either oft'
or running at low idle; corroded
battery cables and connectors; low
water level in the battery; or prolonged disuse of the battery, which
would permit self-discharge; are all
possible reasons which should be
considered when a battery is run
down or low in charge.
Charging system troubles such as
low alternator output, no alternator
output (indicated by the indicator
light being on while the engine is
running), or alternator output voltage too high, require testing of
both the alternator and the alternator regulator.
FIG. 1-Aiternator Unit -Assembled

Alternator regulator failures are
usually not recognised except by the
direct effect on the alternator output, and, of course, eventual battery
discharge. As the regulator is the
control valve for the alternator, it
acts to protect the battery by pre
venting excessive voltage output.
Discharge of the battery to ground
through the alternator is prevented
by the diodes of the alternator

which permit current flow in one
direction (to the battery) only.
Proper adjustment of the alternator regulator is very important.
The wad map t~ pe of procedures

which follow will assist in a logical
sequence of pinpointing specific
troubles. ALWAYS DETERMINE
THE CAUSE OF FAILURE AS
WELL AS MAKING THE REPAIR.
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
13-3
-::r
-,-
+
-+-
FIG. 2- Lucas Charging Circuit 14 AC Shown.
.
I
I
I
I
l_ __________ l
I
FIG. 3- Bosch Charging System
PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE ON
ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED
VEHICLES
1. Polarity and Connections. The

alternator is for use on negative
earth electrical systems only. Polarity
cannot be reversed by 'Flashing' the
field terminals as with the dynamo
and any attempt to do so will damage
the alternator.
2. Refitting Vehicle Battery. Reversed battery connections will damage the alternator rectifiers. When
refitting, first fit the positive +
connector to the battery positive +
terminal and then fit the negative connector to the negative - battery
terminal.
3. High Rate Battery Charging.
Advisable to first disconnect the
battery negative cable thus isolating
the alternator from the battery and
external charging equipment.
4. Battery Connections. The
battery must never be disco!}nected
while the engine is running or damage
may occur to the rectifier and/or
control box semi-conductor devices.
For this reason the practice of using
a slave battery to start the engine
and subsequently reconnecting the
original battery whilst the engine is
running must not be attempted. It is
likewise inadvisable to break or make
any other connections in the alternator circuit while the engine is running.
13-4
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
5. Alternator Main Output Cable.

(a)The cable connecting the
alternator and the battery is 'live'
even when the engine is not running.
Care must be taken not to earth
this live cable if it should ever be
removed, or damage to the cable will
occur.
(b )The alternator must never be
run with the main output cable disconnected either at the alternator or
battery end while the field remains
energised or the rectifiers may be
damaged.
6. Arc Welding. The possibility
of damage to the semi-conductor
devices during arc welding operations
on a vehicle is very slight. However,
it is a worthwhile precaution to
isolate the control box and alternator
by disconnecting their wmng
connectors prior to carrying out any
arc welding work on the vehicle.
7. Testing Semi-Conductor Devices. Never use an ohmmeter of the
type incorporating a hand driven
generator for checking the rectifier
or transistors.
BATTERY LOW IN CHARGE,
HEADLIGHTS DIM AT IDLE
Refer to Fig. 4 for these symptoms.
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT

STAYS ON
Refer to Fig. 5 for this symptom.
Oth~1 symptoms covered under this
heading- a1e : - batte1y will not hold
charge; altt>l nator has no output;
alternator has low output.
:'\OTE I.
If tht> owner has had previous
difficulty with the battery runninJ.~:
down and past history does not indicate that thl' problem i:,; due to
l'Xlessive night driving, l'Xcessive
use of accessories, short tl"ips Ol'
extended periods of .idle, then it is
suggested that the complete c:harging system he ehel:kl'd.
NOTE2.
Test the alternator output as described
in the applicable part of this Group.
NOTE 3.
Check the voltage regulator setting.
Only the Bosch regulator is adjustable.
If either type of Lucas regulator is outside

specification it must be replaced. Adjust
the voltage regulator if necessary (Bosch).
Refer to applicable alternator part of
this group.
NOTE4.
An output of 2 to 5 amperes less
than that specified usually indicates an
open diode. An output of approximately
10 amperes less than that specified usually
indicates a shorted diode. (Also see under
"Alternator Noisy").
NOTES.
A condition where normal output
results when testing as in NOTE 2, but
where low or no output results when the
system is nbrmally connected, could be
the result of faulty field circuit wiring.
Before replacing the regulator, check the
field wiring as follows:If the regulator operation is satisfactory,
check the wire from the accessory terminal
of the ignition switch to the voltage
regulator, and the wire from the voltage
regulator to the alternator. Repair or
replace as necessary.
Lucas - Remote regulator
Remove wiring plug from the regulator.
Switch on the ignition and check
voltage at F and IND terminals in wiring
harness. Battery voltage should be
indicated.
Lucas - Integral regulator
Remove wiring plug from IND terminal of the alternator. Switch on ignition.
Check voltage available of IND terminal
of harness. Battery voltage should be
available.
Bosch - Remote regulator
Remove wiring plug from the regulator.
Switch on the ignition and check for
battery voltage at the D+ terminal in the
harness. Switch off the ignition and replace the wiring plug.
If all checks in NOTE 5 are satisfactory to this point it remains only to
ensure that the regulator is effeotively
earthed. The Lucas injegral regulator earths
through a mounting screw to the alternator
frame .
The remote regulators earth through
their mounting brackets to the body shed
metal.
LIGHTS & FUSES FAIL
PREMATURELY, SHORT
LIFE
BATTERY
Refer to Fig. 6 for these symptoms.
Other symptoms covered under this heading are: battery uses excessive amount of
water; burning of; distributor points,
ignition resistor wire, or coil; high battery
charging rate.
ALTERNATOR NOISY
When investigating the complaint
of alternator noise, first try to localize the noise area to make sure
that the alternator is at fault
l'ather than the alternator belt,
water pump, or another part of the
vehicle. Start the engine and use a
stethoscope or similar sound detector instrument to localize the noise.
An alternator bearing, water pump
bearing or belt noise is usually evidenced by a squealing sound.
An alternator with a shorted
diode will normally whine (Magnetic noise) and will be most noticeable at idle speeds. Perform the
alternator output tests. If the output is approx. 10 amperes less than
that specified,, a shorted diode is
usually indicated.
To eliminate the belt(s) as the
cause of noise, check the belt(s) for
bumps, apply a light amount of belt
dressing to the belt(s). If the alternator belt is at fault, adjust the
t.elt to specification, or replace the
belt if necessary.
If the belt(s) is satisfactory and
the noise is believed to be in the
alternator or water pump, remove
the alternator belt. Start the engine
and listen for the noise as a double
check to be !lUre that the noise is
not caused by another component.
Use this test and the sound detector test to isolate the offending
unit. If the noise is traced to the
alternator, remove it and check
bearings for play or roughness.
CHARGE INDICATOR/WARNING
LIGHT FLICKERS
This condition may be caused by
dirty or oxidised regulator contacts
loose o'r damaged connections in the
charging system wumg harness,
worn brushes, or improper brush
tension.
13-5
IIATTERY LOW IH CHARGE

HEADLIGHTS DIM AT IDLE
CIUCK I=OA A BROUN, LOOSE: OQ SLIPPING

ALTRNATOR DRIYit BltLT . IN SPitCT 8.UTI:Cl'f ,
CAILt.S A.NO CMAIIGING SYSHM WIRING FOR
GOOO ltUCTRICAL COtrr.ITACT . CLI:AN nu:
UTHR'f TltRMINALS AND TIGMTitN

CON'"CTIONS AS NC:CitSSAAY
All
BATTERY CAPACITY TEST

USE A SUITABLE HIGH lATE DISCHARGE SAnElY TESTEI
ADJUST RESISTANCE UNTIL AMMETEI lEADS 3 TIMES AMPEI-HOUI IATING OF IAnEIY
HOLD FOil 15 SECONDS AND lEAD VOLTAGE
VOLTAGE OVER 9.6
VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY.

CHARGE BATTERY, IF BELOW 1.230.
OTHERWISE BATTERY IS OK
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY

OF EACH CELL
MORE THAN SO POINTS

(O.OSO) BETWEEN CELLS
LESS THAN SO POINTS

(O.OSO) BETWEEN CELLS
ADD WATER IF NECESSARY AND

CHARGE BATTERY PER CHARGING
SCHEDULE AND REPEAT CAPACITY TEST
TOTAL VOLTAGE
MORE THAN 9.6
TOTAL VOLTAGE
LESS THAN 9.6
I~ THE OWNER HAS HAD PREVIOUS DlffiCULITY WITH THE

BATTERY-RUNNING DOWN AND PAST HISTORY
DOES HOT INDICATE THAT THE PROBLEM IS OUE TO EXCESSIVE
NIGHT DRIVING, EXCESSIVE USE Of ACCESSORIES,
SHORT TRIPS -OR EXTENDED PERIODS Of IDLE , THEN
IT IS SUGGESTED THAT THE COMPLETE CHARGING
SYSTEM BE CHECKED.
FIG. 4- Diagnosis Chart, 'Battery Low in Charge, Headlamps Dim at Idle'
13-6
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT STAYS ON

BATTERY WILL HOT HOLD CHARGE
ALTERNATOR HAS HD OUTPUT
ALTERNATOR HAS LOW OUTPUT
CHECK FOR A BROKEN, LOOSE OR SLIPPING DRIVE BELT .
INSPECT BATTERY , CABLES, AND CHARGING SYSTEM WIRING
FOR GOOO ELECTRICAL CONTACT . CLEAN THE BATTERY
TERMINALS AND TIGHTEN ALL CONNECTIONS AS NECESSARY .
CHECK THE BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY, CHARGE THE
BATTERY AND PERFORM THE BATTERY TESTS . SEE NOTE NO. I
BATTERY TESTS UNSATISFACTORY
(II PERFORI.I THE

CHARGING CIRCUIT
RESISTANCE THTS.
CHECK THE OPERATION OF

THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
SEE NOTE NO. 3
121
(I) CHECK THE BATTERY

TO FIELD WIRING .
SEE NOTE NO. 5.
T(ST ALTii:ANATOR
IHOii:Pii:NO,NT 01=
VHUCU WIRING .
SH
FIG .
C21
7.
Uli:
FIG. 5- Diagnosis Chart, 'Charge Indicator Light Stays On'

LIGHTS AND FUSES FAIL PREMATURELY
SHORT BATl fRY LIFE
BATTERY USES EXCESSIVE AMOUNT DF WATER
BURNING OF DISTRIBUTOR POINTS, RESISTOR WIRE, OR COIL
HIGH CHARGING RATE
CHECK ALL CHARGING SYSTEM WIRING

CONNECTIONS INCLUDING THE REGULA TOR
GROUND WIRE . TIGHTEN OR REPAIR AS
REQUIRED. CHECK THE ALTERNATOR
VOLTAGE LIMITEP. SETTING . IF THE
CONTACTS ARE BURNED, REPLACE THE
REGULATOR.
VOLTAGE IEGULATOI
WITHIN SPECIFICAnON
VOLTAGE IEGULATOI
5m1NG TOO HIGH
ADJUST TO THE LOW END

OF THE SPECIFIED RANGE.
FIG. 6- Diagnosis Chart, 'Lights and Fuses Fail Prematurely'
Tli:ST ALTii:ANATOR
INDii:Pii:NDii:NT OF
YS:HICU WIRING.
IF THE CONTACTS ARE

BURNED, REPLACE THE
REGULATOR . IF THE
POINTS ARE SATISFACTORY,
ADJUST TO SPECIFICATION.
FIG .
7.
EJ
TESTING PROCEDURES
TESTING THE ALTERNATOR

SYSTEM
Before any tests are made on the
alternator or regulator the battery
should be checked and the circuit
inspected for faulty wiring or insulation, loose or corroded connections and poor ground circuits.
Cheek alternator belt tension to be
sure the belt is tight enough to
prevent slipping under load. Any
unfavourable conditions noted in the
inspection should be corrected before proceeding.
NOTE: THE IGNITION SWITCH
SHOULD BE OFF AND THE
NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE
DISCONNECTED
FROM
THE
BATTERY
BEFORE
MAKING
ANY
TEST
CONNECTIONS.
FAILURE TO OBSERVE THESE
STEPS MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SYSTEM.
1.
13-7
BATTERY TEST:
Test the battery with a hydrometer. If not fully charged it should

be placed on charge or a fully
t'harged battery temporarily installed for test purposes.
FIG. 7- Test Connector
ALTERNATOR TESTS
Make an alternator output test
before testing the Voltage Regulator.
Use care when connecting any
test equipment to the alternator
system, as the alternator output
terminal is connected to the battery
at all times.
Circuits for testing alternators and
regulators are shown in Figures 10/11
and 27/35 .
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TESTON ENGINE
When the alternator output test
is conducted off the car, a test bench
must be used. Follow the procedure
given by the test bench equipment
manufacturer. When the alternator
is removed from the car for this
purpose always disconnect a battery
cable as the alternatol' output connector is connected to the battery
at all times.
NOTE: To prevent short circuiting during
testing operations it js essential that a test
connector shown in Fig. 7 be used.
A variable load such as a Carbon pile
rheostat must be available to place across
the battery.
A switched lamp bank of 800 Watt
capacity is a suitable substitute for a

carbon pile .
ALL OUTPUT TESTING IS TO BE
MADE WITH THE ALTERNATOR
WARM .
RUN ALTERNATOR ON FULL
LOAD FOR 5 MINUTES PRIOR TO
MAKING TESTS.
BOSCH
1. Ensure that the ignition is

switched off.
2. Disconnect the battery earth
cable.
3. Remove the connector plugs
from the alternator main (B+) and
field terminals (DF and D+ ).
4. Install the main terminal of the
test connector to the alternator B+
terminal and one lead to the DF
terminal of the alternator (Figs. 8
and 10).
5. Connect one lead of the test
connector to the + (Red) lead of a
moving coil, 0 - 60 amp ammeter ,
connect the - (Black) ammeter lead
to the B+ terminal in the wiring
harness.
6. Connect the positive lead of a
good quality voltmeter to the test
connector aml the negative lead to
ground .
7. Replace the battery earth cable.
8. Connect the carbon pile rheo-
13-8
FIG. 8 - Bosch Alternator Terminals

stat or the switched lamp bank to the
battery terminals. (Ensure that the
load control is in the off position).
engine.
10. Start the engine and slowly
increase engine speed to 2400 R.P.M.
(6000 R.P.M. alternator speed).
11. Adjust the carbon pile or lamp
bank until a constant 14 volts is
achieved.
12. The ammeter should now
register a 40 amp output.
13. Reduce engine speed to idle
R.P.M. and remove the battery load.
CAUTION: Never remove the battery
load while the engire is running at speed
14. Switch off the engine and remove the battery earth cable.
15. Remove the test meters and
the test connector and replace the
original wiring to the alternator.
Should the alternator fail to produce the rated output it must be
removed from the vehicle for further
tests and repairs.
LUCAS
14ACR - all 8 cyl. vehicles. Has
integral regulator.
14AC - All 6 cyl. vehicles fitted
FIG. 9- Lucas Alternator Terminals 14 ACR Shown
with air-conditioning. Has remote

regulator.
NOTE: When testing the output of
the Lucas 14ACR alternator on the
vehicle the regulator, the field F
terminal is not accessible. To isolate
the regulator, earth the power transistor to the alternator body by using
a small screwdriver between the
transistor case and the slip ring end
head.
1. Ensure that the ignition is
switched off.
2. Disconnect the battery earth
cable.
3. Remove the wiring plugs from
the alternator (Fig. 9).
4. Install the main terminal of the
test connector to the + terminal of
the alternator (Fig. 11).
connector to the IND terminal of
the alternator.
connector to the positive lead of a
0 - 60 amp moving coil ammeter.
Connect the .negative (Black) lead of
the ammeter to the + terminal of the
wiring harness.
good quality voltmeter to the test
connector and the negative lead to
ground.
14AC only: connect a jumper

lead from the F terminal to ground.
14ACR only: earth the power
transistor case to the slip ring end
head.
9. Connect the carbon pile rheostat or switched lamp bank across the
battery terminals. (Ensure that the
load control is in the off position).
engine.
11. Start the engine and slowly
increase the engine speed to give
approximately 6000 alternator R.P .M.
Refer to specifications for engine
R.P.M. chart.
12. Adjust carbon pile or lamp
bank untill3.4-13.6 volts is achieved.
Rated output should now be registered on the ammeter. Do not allow
voltage to exceed 15V.
13. Reduce the engine speed to
idle R.P.M. and remove the battery
load.
CAUTION: Never remove the battery
load while the engine is running at
speed.
14. Switch off the engine and remove the battery earth cable.
15. Remove the test meters and
the test connector and replace the
original wiring to the alternator.
FIG. 10- Output Test Bosch
9ATR Control
Ammeter
...I..-
FIG. 11 -Output Test Lucas
13-9
13-10
16. Replace the battery
Should the alternator
duce the rated output it
moved from the vehicle
tests and repairs.
GROUP
earth cable.
fail to promust be refor further
TESTING THE ROTOR
1. Test the rotor windings by

connecting an ohmmeter between the
slip rings (Fig. 12).
If the reading is above specifications, an open circuit is indicated.
13-CHARGING SYSTEM
If the reading is below specifications, short circuited windings

are indicated.
2. Test the rotor insulation by
using a 12V battery and test lamp
(Fig. 13). Place one prod on a slip
ring, the other on the rotor shaft.
The test lamp should not light.
TESTING THE STATOR
1. Test the stator windings by
FIG. 12- Rotor Winding Test
000000
connecting an ohmmeter between

the winding ends (Fig. 14).
The readings must be even on
each phase .
High reading indicates open circuit.
Low reading indicates short circuit.
2. Test the stator insulation by
using a 12V battery and test lamp
between each winding end and the
lamination pack (Fig. 15). The test
lamp should not light.
FIG. 14- Stator Winding Test
000000
12V
FIG. 13- Rotor Insulation Test
FIG. 15- Stator Insulation Test
13-11

FIELD DIODES
1. Place one test probe on the

diode terminal strip (Lucas) or
junction (Bosch) and the other probe
on the IND terminal (Lucas) or A
terminal (Bosch) (Figs. 16 & 18).
2. By reversing the probes it can
be established if one or more of the
field diodes has failed due to an
open or short circuit.
HEAT SINKS
The Negative heat sink is grounded

to the alternator frame.
The Positive heat sink is insulated
from the alternator frame and from
the Negative heat sink.
NOTE: The Bosch rectifier is not
repairable and if found faulty in the
foregoing tests it must be replaced.
The Lucas rectifier is .serviced in
three subassemblies.
I. Positive diode and heat sink
assembly.
2. Negative diode and heat sink
assembly.
3. Field diode and insulator
assembly.
BATTERY TESTS AND

CONCLUSIONS
FIG. 16- Rectifier Pack Lucas

TESTING THE DIODES
(RECTIFIER ASSEMBLY)
AND
In the event of a fault in one or

more of the diodes being indicated by
the. alternator output test, the rectifier pack must be removed from the
alternator.
There are two main possibilities
which can destroy a diode during
service, either a break-down in resistance to current flow caused by high
current flow and high temperature,
or an open circuit in both directions
almost always the consequence of
excess voltage.
POWER DIODES
I . Apply one probe to the diode

terminal strip (Lucas) or junction
(Bosch) and the other probe to the
appropriate heat sink.
2. Reverse the probes.
The test lamp should light in one
direction only. Should the lamp light
in both directions the diode is short
circuited. (If both diodes of one
phase are short circuited all 6 diodes
will show a short circuit when tested).
If the test lamp does not light
in either direction the diode is open
circuited.
Tests are made on a battery to

determine the state of charge and
also the condition. The ultimate result of these tests is to show that
the battery is good, needs recharging, or must be replaced.
If a battery has failed, is low in
charge, or requires water frequently, good service demands that the
reason for this condition be found.
It may be necessary to follow
trouble shooting procedures to locate the cause of the trouble. (Section 1. in this part) .
Hydrogen and oxygen gases are

produced during normal battery
CONNECTION
!CATHODE)
CURRENT FLOW
HOUSING
Take apecial
care ot the ..
aolder connection
FIG. 17 -Diode Connections

For testing purposes it is not
necessary to disconnect the individual
diodes, however it is essential that the
stator leads be unsoldered from the
rectifier pack.
A 12 volt battery with test probes
and a 2 watt globe in series is used
for diode testing.
Poeitive
Heat Sink
FIG. 18 -Bosch Rectifier Pack
13-12

USE A SUITABLE HIGH lATE DISCHARGE IAr:TERY TESTER
ADJUST RESISTANCE UNTIL AMMETER lEADS 3 TIMES AMPER-HOUI IATING OF IATrERY
HOLD FOR 1 5 SECONOS AND READ VOL'T'AGE
VOLTAGE OVER 9.6
VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY .

CHARGE BATTERY, IF BELOW 1.230.
OTHERWISE BATTERY IS OK
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY

OF EACH CELL
MORE THAN 50 POINTS

(0.050) BETWEEN CELLS
LESS THAN 50 POINTS

(0.050) BETWEEN CELLS
I
ADD WATER IF NECESSARY AND
CHARGE BATTERY PER CHARGING
SCHEDULE AND REPEAT CAPACITY TEST
TOTAL t OL TAGE
MORE THAN 9.;
TOTAL VOLTAGE
LESS THAN 9.6
FIG. 19- Battery Capacity Test

operation. This gas mixture can
explode if flames or sparks are
brought near the vent openings of
the battery. The sulphuric acid in
the battery electrolyte can cause a
serious burn if spilled on the skin
or spattered in the eyes. It should
be flushed away with large quantities of clear water.
Before attempting to test a battery, it is important that it be given
a thorough visual examinaton to
determine if it has been damaged.
The presence of moisture on the
outside of the case and/ or low
electrolyte level in one or more of
the cells are indications of possible
battery damage.
Some batteries incorporate a single one-piece cover which completely seals the top of the battery and
the individual cell connectors. This
cover must not be pierced with test
probes to perform individual cell
tests.
A battery can be tested by determing its ability to deliver current.
This may be determined by conducting a Battery Capacity Test. (Fig.
19) shows the battery capacity
test in outline form.

A high rate discharge tester
(Battery-Starter) in conjunction
with a voltmeter is used for this
test.
1. Turn the control knob on the
Rattery-Starter Tester to the OFF
position.
2. Turn the voltmeter selector
switch to the 16 or 20 volt position.
3. Connect both positive test
leads to the positive battery post
and both negative test leads to the
negative battery post. THE VOLTMETER CLIPS MUST CONTACT
THE BATTERY POSTS AND NOT

THE HIGH RATE DISCHARGE
TESTER CLIPS. UNLESS THIS
IS DONE THE ACTUAL BATTERY
TERMINAL
VOLTAGE
WILL NOT BE INDICATED.
4. Turn the load control knob in
a clockwise direction until the ammeter reads three times the ampere
hour rating of the battery. (A 45
ampere hour battery should be tested at 135 amperes load).
5. With the ammeter reading
the reuuired load for 15 seconds,
note the voltmeter reading. A VOID
LEAVING
THE
HIGH
DISCHARGE LOAD ON THE BATTERY FOR PERIODS LONGER
THAN 15 SECONDS.
6. If the voltmeter readin~r is
9.6 volts or more, the battery has
good output capacity and will readily accept a charge, if required.

Check the specific gravity. If the
specific gravity reading is 1.230 or
below, add water if necessary and
charge the battery until it is fully
charged.
The battery is fully charged when
the cells are all gassing freely and
the specific gravity ceases to rise
for three successive readings taken
at hourly intervals. Additional battery testing will not be necessary
after the battery has been properly
charg-ed .
7. If the voltage reading obtained during the capacity test is
helow !1.6 volts, check the specific
)!Tavity of each cell.
!l. If the difference between any
two cells is more than 50 points
(0.050), the battery is not satisfactory for service and should be replaced.
9.
If the difference between cells
is less than 50 points ( 0.050) the

battery should be charged according
to the charging schedule.
In some cases the electrolyte
level may be too low to obtain a
specific gravity reading. In such
cases water should be added until
the electrolyte level just covers the
ring in the filler well, then charge
the battery at 35 amperes for the
maximum charging time indicated
in specifications, for capacity of the

battery being tested.
10. After the battery has been
r:harged, repeat the capacity test.
If the capacity test battery voltage
is still less than 9.6 volts, replace
the battery. If the voltage is 9.6 or
more, the battery is satisfactory
for service.
11 . If the battery is found to be
discharged only, check for a loose
fan belt, loose electrical connections, charging system performance, and make a battery drain test
(in this secton).
13-13
BATTERY DRAIN TEST

This test will determine if there
is any external load that would
cause unwanted battery discha rge.
Disconnect
the
battery
ground
cable and connect the positive

of a voltmeter to the cable.
nect the negative lead of the
meter to the battery negative
lead
Convoltpost.
With all circuits off, the meter

should read zero. Any battery external load will cause th e voltmeter
to read full battery voltage.
If the car is equipped with an
electric clock. momentarily connect
the battery ground cable to the battery negative post to make certain
that the clock is wound. When the
clock runs down at the end of
approxima tel y 2 minutes the voltmeter will show full battery voltage.
BELT ADJUSTMENTALTERNATOR
1. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and the adjusting arm
bolts.
2. Apply pressure on the alternator front housing only and tighten

the adjusting arm to alternator
bolt.
3. Check the belt tens ion using

tool 8620-B. Adjust the belt for
specified tension.
4. Tighten all mounting bolts.
1. The rotor, stator, and bearings must not be cleaned with solvent. Wipe these parts off with a
clean cloth.
2. Rotate both the front and

rear bearings and assess their condition by feelin g for excessive play
or roughn ess. Load the bearings
by hand pressure when checking
for roughness and rotate the outer
race at lea5 t six turns in this manner. Look for excessive lubricant
leakage.
Replace bearings if any of these
conditions exist.
3. Inspect the totor assembly
for damage to the pole surfaces
due to contact with stationary components; scores or bruises on the
slipring; loose slip ring; damaged

rotor leads; shaft thread damage etc.
Replace or repair this assembly
as required.
4. Inspect the pulley and fan for
excessive looseness on the rotor
shaft. Inspect the fan for cracks
and bent blades. Replace the fan if
cracks art! apparent.
5. Check both end heads for
nacks, stripped threads (particulal'ly on the mounting lugs), distortion , enlarged diode holes etc. Replace defective end-heads.
6. Check the stator windings f01

signs of overheating. Make sure the
stator leads are not fractured or
broken oft' inside the sleeving.
Re-solder any poor connections.

Replace stator if insulation
burnt and / or flakin g.
7. Inspect the
bly for distortion
brushes for wear
b,reakage. This is
parison with a
sprin!(' assembly.
is
brush-card assemand wear. Inspect

and lead or spring
best done by comnew brush and
VERY IMPORTANT
Before assembling the Alternator,

refer to appropriate section for details
of Insulating Washers and the position in which they are used.
Failure to insulate the components correctly can damage both the
Alternator and Regulator.
13-14
IJ

DIAGNOSIS
1. ALTERNATOR DOES NOT

CHARGE:
D.
A. Driving belt loose.

B. Worn brushes or rings.
c.
Sticking brushes.
D.
Open field circuit.
3.
2.
Faulty diode rectifiers.
H.
Faulty regulator.
LOW OR VARIABLE
CHARGING RATE:
A.
LOW OUTPUT AND LOW

BATTERY
B.
Low regulator setting (Bosch)
C.
Faulty diode rectifier.
D.
Grounded stator winding.
Open circuit in stator wind-
G.
5.
BURNT REGULATOR
CONTACTS~(Bosch)
A. High resistance in charging

circuit.
E . Open charging circuit.

F.
ing.
Open circuit in stator wind-
ine.
..
OVERCHARGING:
A.
High regulator setting.
B.
Shorts in rotor field coil.
C. Earthed rotor field coil or

slip-rings.
6.
REGULATOR CONTACT
POINTS WELDED: (Bosch)
A. High resistance ground circuit between alternator and regulator.

7.
UNSATISFACTORY WARNING LIGHT OPERATION:
A. Regulator set too high (Bosch)
Driving belt loose.
B. Regulator contacts welded (Bosch)
B. High resistance in charging

circuit (check battery terminals).
C. Regulator coil winding open (Bosch)

D. Regulator not effectively
earthed.
C. High resistance in earth return circuit.
A. Faults in alternator and regulator operation.

B.
Low voltage setting (Bosch)
OUTPUT TEST DIAGNOSIS

Warning Light
Temperature Noise
Output
Probable Fault and

Associated Damage
Normal at standstill, goes out at

cut-in speed but then glows
progressively brighter as speed
increases.
High
Normal
Higher than normal

at 6000 rev/min
A positive output diode

open-circuited (May damage rotor
winding and output stage, overheat
brush boxes and blow warning
light).
Light out under all conditions.
High
Excessive
Very low at
6000 rev/min
A positive output diode short

circuited (May cause failure of
associated 'field' diode).
Normal at standstill, dims

appreciably at cut-in and gets
progressively dimmer at
higher spe_eds.
Normal
Excessive
Poor at low speed.

Slightly below
normal at
6000 rev/min.
A negative output diode

open-circuited

slightly at cut-in and remains
so throughout speed range.
Normal
Excessive
Very low at all

speeds above cut-in.
A negative output diode shortcircuited. (The same symptoms

would be apparent if one phase
winding was shorted to earth).

slightly at cut-in and remains
so throughout speed range.
Norm11l
Normal
Lower than normal

at 6000 rev/min.
A 'field' diode open-circuited.

appreciably at cut-in and
remains so at higher speeds.
Normal
Normal
Very low.at
6000 rev/min.
A 'field' diode short-circuited.
13-15
PART
132
BOSCH ALTERNATOR
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation ................ 13-15
2 Removal and Installation ............. . .. 13-17
IJ
Secdon
Page
3 Major Repair Operations . . .. . .. .. .... . . .. 13-17
The Bosch alternator is a three

phase alternating current (AC) generator with six integrally mounted
silicon diodes that convert the AC
into direct current (DC) suitable for
charging the battery.
A further three smaller diodes are
fitted into the rectifier pack to provide DC for field excition via the
voltage regulator.
A remote voltage regulator ,
mounted on the fender apron, IS
used to control the alternator voltage
output.
The alternator is inherently self
current limiting and the diodes prevent reverse current flow from the
battery.
The alternator consists of the
following major parts: 1. The Stator, a laminated frame
which carries in slots the three phase
star connected output winding.
2. The Rotor, comprising the slip
rings and field (exciter) windings and
is constructed of interlaced poles or
fingers which form alternate north
and south poles. The field winding is
wound concentric with the shaft
inside the claw poles and has its
ends connected to the slip rings.
3. The Rectifier Pack containing
nine diodes.
The six output diodes are arranged
in a three phase bridge connection
having three diodes of positive polarity and three diodes of negative
polarity.
The three field diodes are in the
D+ circuit and allow portion of the
DC output current to be used for

indicator
light
operation and
excitation of the field winding
through the regulator.
4. The two end heads which carry
the ball bearings.
The drive end head incorporates
the mounting lug while the slip ring
end head contains the brush gear and
rectifier pack.
Alternator Terminals - Fig. 8
D+ Field diode junction for regulator
D+ and indicator lamp
DF Field terminal connection for
regulator DF.
B+ Battery connection
+ Radio suppressor terminal
OPERATION
With the ignition switch turned
on and the engine running (Fig. 3),
the flow of current through the rotor field coil energises the twelve
pole rotating electro magnet. The
rotation of the energised rotor unit
induces an A.C. voltare in the three
phase rotor winding which ia converted into D.C. by the aix diode
rectifiers and conducted to the B+ terminal.
The rectifiers, which only conduct
in one direction, prevent the battery
which is directly and permanently
connected to the alternator output
terminal, from diachar&'ing through
the alternator. This characteristic
of the rectifiers eliminates the need
for a cut-out relay, BUT IT IS
ESSENTIAL THAT THE BATTERY MUST ALWAYS BE CON-
lii'ECTED WITH THE NEGATIVE

TERMINAL TO GROUND. FAILURE TO CONNECT A BATTERY
WITH THE CORRECT POLARITY
WILL DAMAGE THE ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR. DISCONNECT ONE VEHICLE BATTERY LEAD WHEN USING A
QUICK CHARGER.
Portion of this D.C. is directed to the

field excitation diodes, one end of each
diode being connected to a phase of the
stator and the other end to the D+
terminal. From the D+ terminal the current
is routed through the regulator to the
DF terminal of the alternator. The current
now passes through the field winding to
ground.
As the speed of the rotor increases, the induced vol tage in the
stator winding increases, causing
more current to flow to satisfy the
load equirements. However, the inductive reactance of the stator
winding provides an automatic upper limit on the cu.rrent output of
the alternator.
The function of the voltage limiter is to control the output voltage
of the Alternator to meet the needa
of the vehicle electrical system
which it accomplishes by controlling the flow of current in the rotor
field coil.
'
0\
~O@
w
I
I
m
z
m
;o
G)
)>
,....
()
)>
;o
G)
G)
(/)
~Q~~~~
FIG. 20- Bosch Alternator- Exploded View
-<
(/)
~~
-t
3:
(/)
;o
<
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
DRIVE END HEAD

STATOR
RECTIFIER PACK
SLIP RING END HEAD
BRUSH GEAR ASSEMBLY
RADIO SUPPRESSOR
ROTOR
()
PART 13-2-BOSCH ALTERNATOR
EJ
13-17
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground
cable.
2. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the adjust
ment arm to alternator bolt. (Better access to these may be possible
with the vehicle raised) .
3. Disengage the alternator belt.
EJ MAJOR
Remove the alternator mounting

bolt, disconnect the alternator wiring- harness and remove the alternator.
INSTALLATION
1. Attach
the alternator wiring
harness. Position the alternator to the
engine, and install the alternator mounting
bolt finger-tight.
2. Install the adjustment arm t o

a lternator bolt.
3. Adjust th e belt tension using
tool T63L-8620-A . Apply pressure
on the alternator front housing
<' nly, when ti g htening the belt.
Tig hten t he adjusting arm bolts
and the mounting bolt.
4. Lower the car and connect the
batte r y g round cable.
REPAIR OPERATION
DISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR
1. Mark both end housing and the

stator with a scribe mark.
2. Remove the brush holder by
unscrewing the 2 attaching screws.
3. Remove the 4 through bolts.
4. Separate the drive end head
and rotor sub-assembly from the slip
ring end head and stator sub-assembly.
Do not loose the wave washer from
the slip ring end head bearing recess.
5. Using long nose pliers on the
diode leads as heat sinks unsolder
the 3 stator leads from the rectifier
assembly and remove the stator.
6. Remove the 4 attaching screws
and withdraw the rectifier assembly
from the slip ring end head.
7. To remove the rotor from the
drive end head hold the rotor in a vice
equipped with soft jaws. Remove the
pulley retaining nut , lock washer,
spacer and pulley. Remove the second
spacer and the fan. A third spacer
(shouldered) is fitted in the end
head, remove this spacer.
8. The end head may now be
supported on a press and the rotor
pressed out. A shouldered spacer
will be found on the shaft behind
the bearing.
9. Remove the drive end head

bearing by unscrewing the 2 retaining
plate screws, re~ove the plate and
withdraw the bearing.
10. Remove the bearing from the
slip ring and of the rotor shaft with
a suitable puller.
11. For cleaning and inspection
see Part 1 of this group.
ASSEMBLY
1. Position the drive end head

bearing, shielded side first, in the end
head. Secure the retaining plate with
two screws.
2. Place the smaller of the two
shouldered washers on the drive end
of the rotor shaft with the shoulder
towards the bearing. (Make sure that
the jump ring has not been displaced
on the shaft.)
3. Push the rotor shaft through
the bearing. (This should be a hand
push fit.)
4. Place the larger shouldered
spacer on the rotor shaft with the
shoulder toward the bearing.
5. Position the fan on the shaft
with the blades toward the end head
and follow it with a spacer, pulley,
lock washer and-nut.
6. Grip the rotor in a vice equipped
:..: .
FIG. 21 - Rectifier Pack Fixing Screws
with soft jaws and tighten the pulley

nut to specification.
7. Press the slip ring end bearing
onto the shaft shielded side first .
8. Position the rectifier pack in
the slip ring end head. Insert the
two long screws in the insulated
holes and the two short screws in the
other two mounting holes. Tighten all
screws.
9. Position the stator assembly on
the slip ring end head and align the
scribe marks.
10. Using a pair of pliers as a heat
sink on the diode leads quickly solder
the stator leads to the terminal strips
on the rectifier pack.
11 . Place the wave washer in the
slip ring end head bearing recess.
12. Fit the rotor end head and
rotor sub-assembly to the slip ring
head and stator sub-assembly, align
the scribe marks and fit the through
bolts.
13. Tighten the through bolts
evenly.
14. Fit the brush and terminal
assembly and tighten the attaching
screws.
15. Ensure that the rotor turns
freely by hand, install on the vehicle
and observe operation.
,:
FIG. 22 - Soldering Stator Leads
13-18
PART
13-3
LUCAS ALTERNATOR
Section
Page
2 Removal and Installation ................. 13-20
LUCAS AlTERNATOR
Two types of Lucas alternators
are used on XA/ZF vehicles. They
are the 14 AC-6D model with a
remote 9 ATR voltage regulator and
Page
Section
3 Major Repair Operations ................. 13-20
14 ACR-4D and 6D models with an

integral 13 ATR voltage regulator.
With the exception of the positioning of the voltage regulator the two
types of alternator are basically the
same and the following description,
operation and repair procedures apply

to both except as noted.
The 14 ACR-4D and 6D models
vary only in their rated output being
40 and 55 amps respectively.
The stator comprises a 36 slot

3-phase star connected output winding on a ring shaped lamination pack,
housed between the slip ring end and
drive end brackets. The rotor is of 12
pole construction and carries a slip
ring fed rotor (field) winding. It is
supported by ball bearings in the
drive end slip ring end heads.
The brush gear for the field system
is mounted on the slip ring end
bracket. Two carbon brushes bear

against a pair of copper slip rings
which encircle the rotor shaft.
Rectification of alternator output
is achieved by six silicon diodes
contained within the slip ring end
bracket and connected in a three
phase bridge circuit between stator
and output terminals. A second rectifier bridge is formed by using three
auxiliary low current diodes in con-
FIG. 24- lucas Charging Circuit 14 ACR Shown
junction with three of the six main

diodes and at normal operating speeds
this supplies the energy for the alternator field coil via the slip rings,
brushes and voltage regulator.
The diodes and stator windings are
cooled by airflow through the alternator induced by a ventilating fan
mounted on the rotor shaft at the
drive end.
An electronic voltage regulator is
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1. Shaft Nut
2. Shaft Nut Spring Washer
3. Bearing Collar
4. Pulley
5 . Fan
6 . Drive End Head
7. Fixing Through Bolt
8 . Drive End Bearing
9 . Drive End Bearing Retaining Plate
10. Retaining Plate Screws
11 . Rotor
12. Slip Rings

13. Slip Ring End Bearing
14. Stator
15. Wavy Washer
16. Slip Ring End Bracket
17. Brush Set
18. Brush Box Moulding
19. Field Diode and Terminal Plate Assembly
20. Positive Heat Sink and Diode Assembly
21 . Insulators
22. Negative Heat Sink and Diode Assembly
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FIG. 23- Lucas 14 AC Alternator
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13-20
mounted inside the slip ring end

head on the ACR type alternator,
while on the AC type alternator the
remote voltage regulator is mounted
on the fender apron.
In effect its action is similar to
that of the vibrating contact type
of voltage regulator, but switchin~ of
the field circuit is achieved by transistors instead of vibrating contacts.
No cut-out is required since the diodes
incorporated in the alternator prevent
reverse currents from flowing. No
current regulator is required as the
inherent self regulating properties of
the alternator limit the output current
to a safe value.
Design features include temperature compensation without the use of
a thermistor, radio frequency interference suppression, requires no adjustment in service.
The voltage regulator and alternator are isolated from the battery
when the engine is stationary by
means of the ignition switch.
EJ
OPERATION
With the ignition switch turned
on and the engine running (Fig. 24),
the flow of current through the rotor field coil energises the twelve
pole rotating electro magnet. The
rotation of the energised rotor unit
induces an A.C. voltage in the three
phase rotor winding which is converted into D.C. by the aix diode
rectifiers and conducted to the + output
terminal
The rectifiers, which only conduct
in one direction, prevent the- battery
which is 'directly and permanently
connected to the alternator output
terminal, from discharging through
the alternator. This characteristic
of the rectifiers eliminates the need
for a cut-out relay, BUT IT IS
ESSENTIAL THAT THE BATTERY MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED WITH THE NEGATIVE
TERMINAL TO GROUND. FAILURE TO CONNECT A BATTERY
WITH THE CORRECT POLARITY
WILL DAMAGE THE ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR. DISCONN ECT ONE VEHICLE BATTERY LEAD WHEN USING A
QUICK CHARGER.
Portion of the output current is fed
through the field diodes to the voltage
regulator. From the regulator this current
goes to ground via the field windings.
As the speed of the rotor increases, the induced voltage in the
stator winding increases, causing
more current to flow to satisfy the
load equirements. However, the inductive reactance of the stator
winding provides an automatic upper limit on the current output of
the alternator.
The function of the voltage limiter is to control the output voltage
of the Alternator to meet the needa
of the vehicle electrical system
which it accomplishes by controlling the flow of current in the rotor
field coil.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL
cable.
2. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the adjustment arm to alternator bolt. (Better access to these may be possible
with the vehicle raised) .
3. Disengage the alternator belt.
EJ MAJOR
Remove the alternator mounting

bolt, disconnect the alterna tor wiring harness a nd remove the alternator.
INSTALLATION
1. Attach
the alternator wiring
harness. Position the alternator to the
~ngine, and install the alternator mounting
bolt finger-tight.
2. Install the adjustment arm to

a lternator bolt.
3. Adjust the belt tension using
tool T63L-8620-A . Apply pressure
on the alternator front housing
<'nly, when tightening the belt.
Tighten the adjusting arm bolts
and the mounting bolt.
4. Lower the car and connect the
battery ground cable.
REPAIR OPERATION
DISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR
1. Mark both end housings and

the stator with a scribe mark.
2. Withdraw the three through
bolts.
3. Separate the drive end head
and rotor sub-assembly from the slip
ring end head and stator sub-assembly.
Do not loose the wave washer from
the slip ring end head bearing recess.
4. Using a pair of long nose pliers
as a heat sink on the stator wire
quickly unsolder the stator leads
from the terminal strips on the rectifier pack and remove the stator
from the slip ring end head.
5. Remove the two rectifier pack
attaching nuts, spring and flat washers.
Remove the brush gear attaching
screw. Remove the voltage regulator
attaching screws (ACR models only).
The rectifier pack, brush gear and
voltage regulator (ACR models only)

may now be removed as an assembly.
NOTE: The rectifier pack may now
be tested as detailed on Page 11 of
Part 1 and if further dismantling is
necessary proceed .as follows.
6. ACR models only, unsolder
the regulator leads at the brush gear.
7. Unsolder field diode connections on brush gear terminal.
NOTE: It is important this unsoldering operation be carried out as quickly
as possible as excessive heat transference from the soldering iron to the
brush box moulding could warp the
moulding and.result in restricting the
free movement of the brushes. This
also applies when soldering on the
field diode connections during reassembly of the alternator.
8. Using a pair of long nose pliers
as a heat sink grip each of the semiconductor wiring terminations in turn
and unsolder the three wires from

each, this will separate the Positive,
Negative and field diode heat sinks.
NOTES:
(a) Field diode assembly consisting
of three field diodes and insulated
moulding is serviced as one unit.
(b)Positive and Negative heat sinks
are serviced separately as complete
units, each unit comprising three
diodes and heat sink.
( c) The rectifier insulators and heat
sink separators are serviced as a complete kit.
For electrical tests on the components refer to pages 10 and 11 of
part one of this group.
ASSEMBLY
1. Reassemble the rectifier assembly placing the four insulation pieces

and the Positive male Lucar in original
PART 13-3-L UCAlS ALTERNATOR

positions.
2. Place the rectifier in position
in the body of the SRE bracket and
fit fixing bolts, flat and spring
washers and nuts.
3. Refit the brush gear and fixing
screw. Solder field diode wires onto
brush gear terminal.
NOTE : It is important that this
soldering operation be carried out
as quickly as possible as excessive
heat transference from the soldering
iron to the brush box moulding could
warp the moulding and result in
restricting the free movement of the
brushes.
4. Solder main and field diode
wires onto their original terminal
strips using a pair of long nose pliers
to grip the wire and act as a hea t
dissipater. (Use 'Ersin' 60/40 'M'
Grade Solder or equivalent).
NOTE : When bending the diode
wires to link up with the termination
strips, grip each diode wire at its
base with a pair of long nose pliers
and bend the wire into position with

the fingers. This will eliminate the
possibility of the wire becoming detached from the silicon wafer inside
the diode assembly.
5. ACR models only . Ensure
6m/mxl 3m/m PVC sleeving pieces
on each of the two voltage regulator
mounting posts are in position and
are not damaged , renew if necessary using PVC sleeving cut to the
abovementioned lengths (Fig. 25).
Place the voltage regulator in position and fit pan head screws with
the lock washer under the screw on
the right hand side of the regulator as
viewed from the front (Ref. figure
33). This washer is important as it
ensures a good earth return for the
regulator.
Regulator Wiring Terminations Green wire from regulator to
rear brush terminal.
White or Red wire to front or IND
brush terminal.
6 . Place wavy thrust washer in

SRE bearing housing.
7. Compress brushes and insert a
3" x 3/32" diameter steel
pin
through the guide hole in the
SRE head with approximately
1" of the pin protruding through the
rear face of the end head. This will
hold the brushes in a compressed
position whilst the rotor is being
fitted .
8. Fit stator and solder the three
phase leads onto their original terminals.
Fit D.E. head and rotor assembly .
Fit and tighten the three through
bolts evenly to a torque of 45 lbs/ins.
ensuring the end brackets are sitting
evenly on the stator lamination pack.
Withdraw brush gear retaining pin .
Refit fan, pulley, spring washer
and shaft nut, tightening shaft nut
to specification.
9 . Ensuring that the rotor turns
freely by hand, install on the vehicle
and observe operation.
White or
Red Lead
Green
Lead
Voltage Regulator Lock Washer under this screw
6mm x 13mm PVC Sleeving
FIG. 25- 14 ACR Alternator S.R.E. Bracket Internal View
13-21
13-22
PART
13-4
ALTERNATOR REGULATOR BOSCH
Section
Page
I Description and Operation .... . ........ .. .. 13-22

............ 13-24
2 In-Car Adjustment and Tests
DESCRIPTION
VIBRATING CONTACTS
The BOSCH alternator regulator

is a single element electro-mechanical
voltage regulator only (Fig. 26).
Because of the inherent current
control of an alternator caused by the
inductive reactance of the stator no
current limiter is required and as
the rectifier diodes prevent reverse
current flow from the battery no
cut-out is required either.
The voltage regulator is a double
contact vibrating unit incorporating
a positive temperature co-efficient
resistor.
An electro-magnet attracting the
armature blade against spring tension
provides the voltage control.
A wire wound choke is used in the
field circuit to smooth out voltage
surge and prolong point life.
OPERATION
There are three phases of operation of the voltage regulator.

1. Lower points closed - no
regulation Fig. 29.
FIG. 26- Bosch Regulator
~~1 I I I I r-111
,,
REGULATOR
FIG. 27- Voltage Reg. Test (Bosch)
13-23
PART 13-4-ALTERNATOR REGULATOR
OF TERMINAL
FIELD WINDING CIRCUIT
OF TERMINAL LAMP
INDICATOR LIGHT CIRCUIT
DF TERMINAL
FOR RADIO SUPPRESSOR
FIG. 28- Bosch Regulator

When the alternator voltage is
low the lower contacts will be closed
by the armature spring allowing full
system voltage to be applied to the
field windings.
Initial field excitation via the
ignition switch and indicator light
is applied to the field windings
through the lower contacts as residual magnetism in the alternator is
usually too small to start a voltage
build up.
2. Lower points open - first stage
of regulation Fig. 30.
When the alternator voltage irn
pressed on the electro-magnet reaches
a predetermined value the armature
is attracted to the core of the electromagnet, the lower contacts are opened
and a resistor is connected in series
with the field winding. The reduced
field strength causes the alternator
voltage to fall. As a consequence the
contacts cannot be held open by the
reduced influence of the electromagnet and they close. This cycle is
repeated 50-200 times per second
and the voltage is maintained at a
predetermined setting.
3. Upper contacts closed - field
circuit grounded - second stage of
regulation Fig. 31.
As the alternator speed and battery
voltage rise the voltage begins to
overcome the resistance and as a result
the alternator voltage will rise. The
influence of the electro-magnet becomes so strong that the upper points
will make contact. The stationary
upper point is grounded and so the
field circuit is short circuited. The
drop in voltage impressed on the
electro-magnet allows the armature
spring to open the upper points and
the resistor is again in circuit, this
cycle of regulation on the upper
points is also repeated many times
per second.
ALTERNATOR
IGN. SWITCH
BATTERY
FIG. 29- Field Circuit- Lower Points Closed
ALTERNATOR
IGN. SWITCH
FIG. 30- Field Circuit- Points Open
BATTERY
RESISTOR
13-24

9. Cycle the system by stopping
and re-starting the engine.
ALTERNATOR
10. With the ammeter reading 10

amps the voltmeter reading should
be within 13.5-14.4 volts.
To check the regulating range proceed
as follows :11. Increase the engine speed to
2700 - 2800 R.P.M.
The voltage reading with an 8 - 10
amps load should not vary from the
regulating voltage by more .than - 0.2
to +0.4 volts.
REGULATOR
IGN. SWITCH
Electrical adjustments
1. Switch off the engine.
2. Remove the wiring plug from
the base of the regulator.
3. Remove the regulator from the
vehicle.
4. Remove the sealing tape and
remove the regulator cover.
5. Refit the regulator to the
vehicle.
6. Replace the wiring plug to the
base of the regulator.
7. Adjust the bi-metal spring
bracket upwards to increase or downwards to decrease the voltage setting.
Fig. 26.
8. Replace the regulator cover,
start the engine and run it at 700
R.P.M. for 5 minutes to stabilize
the temperature.
9. Cycle the system by stopping
and restarting the engine.
10. With the engine running at 700
R.P.M. adjust the load (lights etc.)
to 10 amps. The voltmeter should
read 13.5- 14.4 volts .
If the specified voltage cannot be
obtained the regulator must be re-
BATTERY
FIG. 31 -Field Circuit- Upper Contacts Closed

3. Insert an ammeter between the
alternator B+ terminal and the B+
terminal of the disconnected wiring
cable.
voltmeter to the test connector on
the alternator B+ terminal and the
negative lead to ground .
6. Install a tachometer on the
engine.
7. Start the engine, switch on
lights and accessories as necessary
to obtain a charge rate of 10 amps
and adjust the engine speed to 700
R.P.M.
8. Run the engine at this load
and speed for 15 minutes to normalise operating temperature.
IN CAR TESTS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Voltage regulator tests.

Before attempting to assess the
performance of the voltage regulator
always carry out an alternator output test - see page 13-7
Accurate test equipment must be
used.
The voltage regulator tests must
be carried out with a fully charged
battery; with the regulator at normal
operating temperature ; and with the
cover in place.
Regulating voltage test. Fig. 27
1. Remove the battery earth cable.
2. Remove the wiring plug from
the B+ terminal of the alternator and
fit the test connector.
RE ST
ATTRACTED
POSITION
POSITION
BIMETAL SPRING
" L
-~
ARMATURE TIP
BIMETAL SPRi riG BRACKET
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..........,
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.........::~
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LOWER CONTACT BRACKET

UPPER CONTACT BRACKET
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FIG. 32 - Bosch Regulator Gap Setting
~~ ~I
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....--..,

moved from the vehicle for further
adjustment or repair.
To reset the regulating range
11. Increase the engine speed to
2700- 2800 R.P.M., adjust the load
to 8 - 10 amps, the voltage should
be within -0.2 to +0.4 volts.
12. If the re~ulating range exceeds
+0.4 increase/reduce the air gap
between the armature and core.
13. If the regulating range exceeds
the permissable decrease of 0.2 volts
enlarge the air gap.
When it has been found necessary
to adjust the air gap to achieve the
specified regulating range voltage must
be checked to ensure that it remains
within tolerance.
14. After the adjustments have

been satisfactorily completed seal
the cover with Polyester tape. A spot
of sealer should be applied at the
start of the tape underneath the overlap to prevent water ingress.
Mechanical adjustments
To carry out the mechanical adjustments the regulator must be removed from the vehicle. See Fig. 32.
1. Armature air gap: (A)
With the armature in the rest
position the gap between the arrnature and the core of the elctromagnet should be .032 - .050".
This may be adjusted by bending
the lower contact bracket.
2. Upper contact gap: (B)
13-25
The gap between the upper or

high speed contacts should be .008 .016". Adjust by bending the upper
contact bracket.
Ensure that the contacts are in
alignment with each other.
3. Armature air gap - upper
points closed: (C)
Close the upper points by applying
light finger pressure to the armature,
gap should be .012- .028".
4. Armature to bracket gap: (D)
The gap between the armature and
the bracket should be .008 - .028".
Adjust by bending the bracket.
Mter making any mechanical adjustments to the regulator the electrical settings must be checked and
adjusted.
13-26
PART
135
LUCAS ALTERNATOR REGULATOR
Section
Page
I Description and Operation ........ . .. . ..... 13-26
LUCAS ALTERNATOR
REGULATOR
Two models of alternator voltage

regulator are used .
The 9 ATR model voltage regulator
is mounted on the fender apron and
is matched to the 14 AC model
alternator, Fig.34.
The 13 ATR is integral with the
14 ACR model alternator and is
mounted inside the slip ring and
head. Fig. 33.
The two regulators have identical
circuits and the description and mode
of operation described herein apply
to both.
Both regulators are non-adjustable
and if tested and found defective
must be replaced .
DESCRIPTION
The regulator consists of a completely static compact assembly of

transistors, diodes, resistors and capacitors soldered to a printed circuit
FIG. 33- 13 ATR Regulator
Page
Section
2 In-Car Tests
board. In effect, the operation is

similar to that of the conventional
electro-mechanical regulator in that
the alternator field current is varied
to maintain the output voltage within
close limits, but switching is performed by transistors instead of
vibrating contacts and a Zener diode
provides the voltage reference in
place of the usual electro-magnet and
tension spring. The unit incorporates
a radio interference suppression capacitor.
Since current can only flow in one
direction through the alternator output diodes, no cut-out relay device is
required .. Neither is a current limiting
device needed, due to the inherent
self-regulating characteristic of alternators.
The control unit and alternator
field windings are isolated from the
battery when the engine is stationary
by means of the ignition switch.
.13-29
OPERATION
In effect, the operation is similar

to that of the conventional electromechanical regulator in that the alternator field current is varied to maintain the stator output voltage within
close limits, but switching is effected
with transistors instead of vibrating
contacts, and a Zener diod~provides
the voltage reference in place of the
usual voltage coil and tension spring.
As the alternator is accelerated from
rest, its output voltage is allowed to
build up until it reaches a limiting
value set by the Zener diode and a
fixed resistance. At this point the
field current is reduced by the action
of a transistor amplifier. Any further
small increase in voltage beyond the
limiting value serves to switch out
the field completely - again by
transistor action.
When the ignition is switched on
the control unit is connected to the
battery through the indicator light,
FIG. 34-9 ATR Regulator
9ATR REGULATOR
SURGE QUENCH
DIODE
ZENER
DIODE
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FIG. 35- Lucas Charging Circuit AC
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13-28
this energises the base circuit of the

power transistors T2 through resistor
Rl. Refer in Lucas circuit diagram.
These transistors then become conducting by virtue of the transistor
action characteristic of the semi-conductor material employed in the
transistor and will permit current to
flow in the collector-emitter section
of the transistor and thus acts as a
closed switch to complete the field
circuit.
As the alternator rotor speed increases the rising voltage generated
across the alternator field-feed diodes
is applied to the potential divider as
illustrated in the diagram and identified as R3 , R2 and R4. According
to the position of the tapping point
on R2, a proportion of this potential
is applied to the Zener Diode (ZD).
This latter device which opposes
the flow of current through itself
until a certain voltage (known as the
breakdown voltage) is reached,
beyond which the current increases
very steeply for small increases in
voltage. The Zener diode can thus be
considered as a voltage conscious
switch which closes when the voltage
reaches its "breakdown" voltage
(about 10 volts), and since this is a
known proportion of the alternator
output voltage as determined by the
position of the tapping point, the
breakdown point, therefore, reflects
the value of the output voltage. When
this point is reached, the Zener diode
conducts and current flows in the base
circuit of the driver transistor T.l.
Again by transistor action, current
will now flow in the collectoremitter portion ofTl, so that some of
the current which previously passed
through Rl and the base circuit of
T2 is now diverted through Tl. Thus
the base current of T2 is reduced and,
as a result, so also is the alternator
field excitation. Consequently, the
alternator output voltage will tend
to fall: and this in turn will tend to
reduce the base current in T1 , allowing increased field current to flow
in T2. By this means, the field
current is continuously varied to
keep the output voltage substantially
constant at the value determined by
the setting of R2.
NEGATIVE FEEDBACK CIRCUIT
Basically, this is the principle of

operation of the regulator, but there
are certain desirable additions. If the
field current were varied continuously
as described , considerable power dis-
9ATR Control
FIG. 36- Alternator Voltage Test -14 AC.

sipation would occur in the power
transistor, leading to problems of
overheating. For this reason, it is
desirable to operate the transistor
either in the fully-on or fully~ff
condition, and this is the purpose of
the positive feed-back circuit comprising RS and C2. As the field
current in transistor T2 starts to fall,
the voltage of F rises and current
flows through resistor RS and capacitor C2, thus adding to the Zener
diode current in the base circuit of
transistor Tl. This has the effect of
increasing the current through T1
and decreasing the current through
T2 still further.
This effect is cumulative and the
circuit quickly reaches the condition
when T1 is fully-on and T2 fully-off.
As capacitor C2 charges, the feed-back
current falls and eventually reaches
a value at which the combination
of Zener diode current and feed-back
current in the base circuit of Tl is no
lbnger great enough to keep T1 fullyon. Current then begins to flow
again in the base circuit of T2, so that
the field current again begins' to
flow through T2. The voltage at
terminal F now commences to fall,
reducing the feed-back current eventually to zero. As T2 becomes yet
more conductive and the voltage at
F falls further, current in the feedback circuit reverses in direction, in
effect reducing still further the base
current in Tl. This effect also is
cumulative and the circuit reverts

to the condition where T1 is fully-off
and T2 fully-on. This condition is
only momentary, since C2 quickly
charges to the opposite polarity when
feed-back current is reduced the
current again flows in the base of Tl.
The circuit thus oscillates, switching
the voltage across the alternator field
winding rapidly on and off. This
method of operation results in considerably low power dissipation.
SURGE QUENCH DIODE
Because switching is achieved so

rapidly, any sudden collapse of the
field current would result in a very
high induced voltage being applied
to transistors T2. They are protected
by means of the surge quench diode
D connected across the field winding.
This also serves to provide a measure
of field current smoothing, since
the current continues to flow in the
diode after the excitation voltage is
removed from the field . This current
decays by only a small amount before the excitation is again applied.
RADIOINTEREFERENCE
SUPPRESSION
The elimination of radio interference caused by rapid switching

within the regulator is achieved by
connecting condenser Cl between
the base and collector terminals of
T1 to provide negative feed-back.

ZENER DIODE LEAK CIRCUIT
At high temperatures, a small

leakage current may flow through
the Zener diode even though the
latter is in the nominally non-conductive state. Resistor R6 provides
a path for this leakage current which
otherwise would flow through Tl
base circuit and adversely affect the
regulator action.
IN CAR TESTS AND
ADJUSTMENTS
Before attempting to assess the

performance of the voltage regulator
always carry out an alternator output test. See page 13-7.
The voltage regulator tests must
be carried out with a fully charged

battery and with the regulator at
Before carrying out the tests
ensure that all wiring and connections
in the charging circuit (including
battery terminals) are tight and in
good condition.
Voltage Regulator Test 9 ATR and
13 ATR.
1. Connect a voltmeter across the

battery terminals.
2. Connect a 0.60 amp ammeter
in series with the alternator main (+)
lead.
3. Connect a carbon pile rheostat
or switched lamp bank across the
13-29
battery terminals (Make sure controls

are in the out or off position).
engine.
5. Start the engine and adjust
speed to 1000 R.P.M.
6. Adjust charge rate to 11 amps
and allow the engine to run at this
rate for 10 minutes.
7. Increase engine speed to give
6000alternator R.P.M. (see chart) and
adjust charge rate to 11 amps.
8. The voltmeter should now
register 14.3 0 .4 volts.
Both the 9 ATR and 13 ATR regulators are non-adjustable units
therefore if the test figures are not
achieved the regulator must be replaced.
13-30
PART
13-6
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS- 6 Cylinder
BOSCH ALTERNATOR
MODEL
UK1 14V40A22
Earth polarity
Nominal voltage
Nominal DC output
Stator phases
Stator winding connection
Number of poles
Resistance of rotor windings
Resistance of stator windings
Brush length (protrusion)
new
minimum
Minimum diameter of slip rings
Tightening torques:
Alternator through bolts
Pulley retaining nut
Rectifier pack fixing screws
Brush box fixing screws
NEGATIVE
14 volts
40 amps
3
Star
12
4.2 .2 ohms
0.21 1 ohm
.35"
.15"
1.24"
33- 47 in/lbs
25 - 32 ft/lbs
20/25 in/lbs
20- 25 in/lbs
BOSCH REGULATOR
MODEL
U- AD1/14V
TYPE
Electro-mechanical vibrator
Regulating voltage (warm)
Voltage range
Armature to core air gap
(at rest)
Armature to core air gap
(upper points closed)
Point opening
Armature to bracket air gap
13.5 - 14.4 volts at 1700 RPM (alternator)

and 10 amps output
reading at 7000 RPM (alternator) and 10 amps
output must be within - 0.2 to +0.4 volts
of the regulating voltage.
.032 - .050"
.Of2 - .028"
.008 - .016"
.008 - .028"
13-31
Engine
R.P.O.
Alternator
R.P.M.
Engine
R.P.M.
8 cyl.
8 cyl.
8 cyl.
8 cyl
8 cyl. G.T.
Standard
Taxi and Police without Power Steering
With power steering
With air conditioning
6000
6000
6000
6000
6000
2500
2500
1800
1800
1800
6 cyl.
6 cyl.
With air conditioning

TaW"i and Police
6000
6000
2500
2500
LUCAS ALTERNATOR- V8 only

MODEL
14ACR
4D
Earth polarity
Nominal voltage
Nominal output
Stator phases
Number of poles
Resistance of rotor winding
Resistance of stator winding
Brush length
new
minirnwn
Negative
12 volts
4D- 38 amps
3
Star
12
3.3 ohms
5%at20C
0.23 ohms
5% ger phase
at 20 C
.625"
.250"
6D
6D - 55 amps
3.0 ohms
5% at 20 C
0.15 ohms
5% ger phase
at 20 C
Lucas Regulator
Model
13ATR
Solid state transistorized - non adjustable
Volt.age setting 14.3 0.4 volts
LUCAS ALTERNATOR-6 Cylinder
Air Conditioning
6D
MODEL
14AC
Earth polarity
Nominal voltage
Nominal output
Stator phases
Number of poles
Resistance of rotor winding
Resistance of stator windings
Brush length
new
minimum
Negative
12 volts
55 amps
3
Star
12
3.0 ohms 5% at 20 C
0.15 ohms per phase at 20 C 5%
.625"
.250"
LUCAS REGULATOR
MODEL
9ATR Solid state transistorized- non adjustable
Voltage setting 14.3 0.4 volts
TIGHTENING TORQUES
Alternator through bolts
Pulley retaining nut
Rectifier pack fixing nuts
Voltage regulator retaining screws
Brush box assy. fixing screw
Brush box moulding screws
35 - 45 lb/in.
End heads must sit evenly on stator.
25-30 lb/ft
20 - 25 lb/ins
15 lb/ins
20 lb/ins
7 lb/ ins

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~::~~~P
STARTING SYSTEM
GROUP
14
PAGE
PART 14-1-
Ford Starting System
14-2
PART 14-2-
Ford Starting System Repair
14-7
PART 14-3-
Bosch Starting System
14-10
PART 14-4-
lucas Starting System
14-13
PART 14-5-
Specifications
14-17
14-2
PART
14-1
FORD STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page

2 Diagnosis and Testing ....
Three types of starter motor are

used on XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane
vehicles.
1. Ford - positive pre-engaged
pinion operated by a moving pole
shoe and remote relay.
2. Bosch - positive pre-engaged
pinion operated by an integral
solenoid.
3. Lucas - positive pre-engaged
pinion operated by an integral
solenoid.
The function of the starting system is to crank the engine at high
enough speed to permit it to start.
The system includes the starter motor
and drive, the battery, a remote control starter switch (part of the igni-
14-2
.... 14-2
tion switch). the neutral-start switch1

the starter relay or solenoid ana
heavy circuit wiring. The starter
mounting is shown in Fig. I .
Turning of the ignition key to the
START position actuates the starter
relay, through the starter control circuit. The starter relay then connects
the battery to the starter.
Cars equipped with an automatic
transmission have a neutral-start
switch, in the starter control circuit,
which prevents operation of the
starter if the selector lever is not in
the N (neutral) or P (park) position.
The starter utilizes an integral
positive-engagement drive
FIG. 1 -Starter Mounting -Typical
The following diagnosis and testing

procedures may be applied to all three
starter motors. Where applicable
read solenoid for relay.
A schematic diagram of the starting circuit is shown in Fig. 3
The majority of starting problems
usually fall into one of the following
situations: the starter will not crank
the engine; the engine will crank at
normal speed but will not start; and
the starter cranks the engine very
slowly.
If the engine will crank but will
not start, the trouble is usually in the
engine, fuel system or ignition system
rather than in the starting system.
Following are road map type
charts which may be followed to determine the cause of the difficulty

and the corrective action.
ROAD SERVICE
On road service calls, connect a
booster battery to the system for
cases of a starter that will not crank
the engine or a starter that cranks the
engine very slowly. If the starter
turns the engine over, but the engine
still will not start, even with the
booster battery attached, refer to the
following charts. Be certain that corred battery polarity is observed when
using a booster battery; posidve to
posidve, and negadve to negadve
connecdon of the au:dliary cables.
STARTER WILL NOT CRANK

THE ENGINE
NOTE I-NEUTRAL START
SWITCH TEST
On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, apply the
brakes and attempt to start the engine while moving the selector lever
through all ranges. This may determine if the problem is caused by a
maladjusted or defective neutralstart switch. Refer to Group 7 Part 3
for the adjustment of this switch.
PART 14-1- FORD STARTING SYSTEM
14-3
STARTER WILL NOT CRANK ENGINE-ROW lltAP (SEE NOTE NO. 1)
*I
CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER CABLES FOR GOOD ELECTRICAL CONTACT .
LOOK FOR BROKEN OR CORRODED CONNECTIONS . IN PARTICULAR ASSURE GOOD
GROUND CONNECTIONS . CLEAN AND TIGHTEN THE CABLE CONNECTIONS AS NECESSARY .
CHECK THE BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY .
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY OK
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY LOW
PERFORM THE BATTERY TESTS. CHARGE OR REPLACE THE

*BATTERY AS NECESSARY . CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER
CABLES AND STARTER RELAY FOR EXCE"SSIVE RESISTANCE .
CHECK THE STARTER RELAYOPERATE THE STARTER (IGNITION) SWITCH .
RELAY DOES NOT CLICK
BY-PASS THE RELAY WITH A

HEAVY JUMPER CABLE .SEE
NOTE NO . 2.
I
ENGINE CRANKS
II
STARTER SPINS,BUT WILL NOT CRANK ENGINE
BY-PASS THE IGNITION SWITCH,

NEUTRAL STARTS WI TCH AND
WIRING . SEE NOTE NO.3 .
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
* REPLACE RELAY
CHECK THE WIRING TO THE IGNITION

SWITCH, NEUTRAL START SWITCH
AND WIRING TO STARTER RELAY. SEE
NOTE NO. 4.
BYPASS RELAY WITH A

HEAVY JUMPER CABLE.
SEE NOTE NO. 2.
STARTER ENGAGEMENT
WEAK OR NO
ENGAGEMENT .
STARTER ENGAGEMENT
FIRM. ENGINE
LOCKED UP .
* REMOVE AND TEST THE

STARTER. REPAIR AS
REQUIRED.
* REMOVE THE STARTING MOTOR AND DRIVE . CHECK AND

CLEAN THE STARTER DRIVE AS REQUIRED. CHECK FOR
DAMAGED FLYWHEEL RING GEAR TEETH . WHEN INSTALLING
THE STARTER, PROPERLY ALIGN IT TO THE FLYWHEEL
HOUSING .
*REPLACE RELAY
* REFER TO GROUP 8
STARTER ENGAGEMENT
WEAK OR NO
ENGAGEMENT.
STARTER ENGAGEMENT
FIRM, ENGINE
LOCKED UP
* REFER TO GROUP 8
J 1316-A
FIG. 2-Starter Will Not Crank Engine-Road Map
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
14-4
1---1~
..!.
BATTERY. -
_ __.TO GENERATOR REGULATOR

STARTER RELAY
TO
IGNITION
COIL
STARTER
RedBive Stripe
---AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION ONLY
STARTER NEUTRAL SWITCH
CLOSED WITH SELECTOR IN
N OR P POSITION
Red Bive Stripe

---STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION SWITCH)
(
TO BATTERY TERMINAL OF
GENERATOR REGULA TOR
terminal of the relay to the starter

(ignition) switch side of the neutralstart switch (Fig. 4, connection No.
4). If the engine does not crank, the
neutral-start switch is out of adjustment or defective. If the engine
cranks, check for voltage at the battery terminal of the starter (ignition)
switch wiring harness connector wi!h
a test light or a voltmeter. If voltage
is not available, the wiring between
the battery terminal of the starter relay and the battery terminal of the
starter (ignition) switch is at fault.
If voltage is available, substitute an
ignition switch from stock. If the engine cranks, replace the ignition
switch. If the engine still will not
crank, the trouble is in the wiring or
connections between the ignition
switch and the starter-neutral switch.
STARTER CRANKS ENGINE
SLOWLY
J 1 083 -C
FIG. 3-Starting Circuit
1---1~.l
BATTERY. -
NOTE2
Connect a heavy jumper cable
from the battery terminal of the relay to the starter terminal of the relay
(Fig. 4, connection No. 1).
NOTE 3-STARTER RELAY
TEST
Connect a jumper from the battery terminal of the relay to the
starter (ignition) switch terminal of
the relay (Fig. 4, connection No. 2).
If the engine does not crank, the
starter relay probably is at fault.
NOTE 4-STARTER CONTROL
CIRCUIT TEST
On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, if the engine
cranks, connect a jumper from the
battery terminal of the relay to the
relay side of the neutral start switch.
(Fig. 4, connection No. 3). If the
engine does not crank, the wiring between the neutral-start switch and the
relay is at fault. If the engine cranks,
connect a jumper from the battery
:
~,
__,
TO
IGNITION
COIL
STARTER LOAD TEST

Connect the test equipment as
shown in Fig. 6 Be sure that no current is flowing through the ammeter
and heavy-duty carbon pile rheostat portion of the circuit (rheostat
at maximum counterclockwise position).
Crank the engine with the ignition
OFF, and determine the exact reading on the voltmeter. This test is accomplished by disconnecting and
grounding the high tension lead from
the spark coil, and by connecting a
jumper from the battery terminal of
the starter relay to the ignition switch
terminal of the relay.
Stop cranking the engine, and reduce the resistance of the carbon pile
until the voltmeter indicates the same
reading as that obtained while the
starter cranked the engine. The ammeter will indicate the starter current
draw under load.
The starter no-load test will uncover such faults as open or shorted
windings, rubbing armature, and bent
armature shaft. The starter can be
tested, at no-load, on the test bench
only.
. ....,_
tom.
STARTER NO-LOAD TEST
NORMAL SPEED BUT WILL

NOT START
Refer to Group 8 for this symp-
~--~S~TA~R~T~ER~--~
--------AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
STARTER NEUTRAL SWITCH
Red. Blue Stripe
------STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION SWITCH)
(
TO BATTERY
Make the test connections as

shown in Fig. 6. The starter will run
at no-load. Be sure that no current is
flowing through the ammeter (rheostat at maximum counterclockwise
position). Determine the exact reading on the voltmeter.
Disconnect the starter from the
battery, and reduce the resistance of
the rheostat until the voltmeter indicates the same reading as that obtained while the starter was running.
The ammeter will indicate the starter
no-load current draw.
J 1084. F
FIG. 4-Starting Control

Circuit Tests
ENGINE WILL CRANK AT
ARMATURE OPEN CIRCUIT

TEST---oN TEST BENCH
An open circuit armature may
PART 14-1- FORD STARTING SYSTEM
14-5
STARTER CRANKS ENGI HE SLOWL Y-ROAO MAP
CHECK THE BATTERY AND HARTER CABLES FOR GOOD

ELECTRICAL CONTACT . LOOK FOR CORRODED OR LOOSE
CONNECTIONS . IN PARTICULAR , ASSURE GOOD GROUND
CONNECTIONS . CLEAN AND TIGHTEN THE CABLES AS
NECESSARY .
CHECK BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY.
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY LOW
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY OK
*
*
CHECK THE STARTER CRANKING

VOLTAGE AND CURRENT DRAW.
CURRENT DRAW NORMAL OR HIGH
CURRENT DRAW LOW
REMOVE THE ST AR T ER, INSPECT

TEST AND REPAIR IT AS NECESSARY .
REMOVE THE STARTER AND CHE CK THE

CURRENT DRAW AT NO LOAD.
CURRENT DRAW ABOVE OR BELOW SPECIFICATIONS
IN SPECT , TEST AND R E PAl fl

THE STARTER AS NECE SSAilY .
FIG. 5
STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION
SWITCH!
TO IGNITION
COIL
TO BATTERY TERMINAL OF
GENERATOR REGULA TOR
FIG. 6-Starter Load Test
PERFORM BATTERY TESTS . CHARGE OR

REPLACE THE BATTERY AS NECESSARY .
CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER
RELAY FOR EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE .
STARTER
CURRENT DRAW IS NORMAL
REFER TO GROUP 8
J 1317-A
14-6
STARTER
TERMINAL
VOLTMETER --.....:$.
POSITIVE
LEAD
FIG. 7 -Starter No-Load Test

on Test Bench
J1094 - B
FIG. 9-Field Grounded Circuit

Test
ARMATURE AND FIELD

GROUNDED CIRCUIT TESTON TEST BENCH
FIG. 8-Armature Grounded

Circuit Test
sometimes be detected by examining

the commutator for evidence of
burning. The spot burned on the
commutator is caused by an arc
formed every time the commutator
segment, connected to the open circuit winding, passes under a brush.
This test will determine if the

winding insulation has failed, permiting a conductor to touch the frame
or armature core.
To determine if the armature
windings are grounded, make the
connections as shown in Fig. 8. If
the voltmeter indicates any voltage,
the windings are grounded.
Grounded field windings can be
detected by making the connections
as shown in Fig. 9. If the voltmeter
indicates any voltage, the field windings are grounded.
This is accomplished by disconnecting and grounding the high tension

lead from the spark coil and by connecting a jumper from the battery
terminal of the starter relay to the
ignition switch terminal(s), of the relay.
The voltage drop in the circuit will
be indicated by the voltmeter (o to 2
volt range). Maximum allowable
voltage drop should be:
1. With the voltmeter negative
lead connected to the starter terminal
and the positive lead connecte~ to the
battery positive terminal (Fig.lO, connection <D) 0.5 volt.
l. With the voltmeter negative
lead connected to the battery terminal of the starter relay and the positive lead connected to the positive
terminal of the battery (Fig. 10, connection ) .. .. .. .. .. .. 0.1 volt.
lead connected to the starter terminal of the starter relay and the positive lead connected to the positive
terminal of the battery (Fig.lO, connection ) . ........ . . 0.3 volt.
lead connected to the negative terminal of the battery and the positive
lead connected to the engine ground
(Fig. 9, connection<!>) . . . . 0.1 volt.
@........:"""""""'-
STARTER CRANKING
CIRCUIT TEST
Excessive resistance in the starter

circuit can be determined from the
results of this test. Make the test connections as shown in Fig. lO.Crank
the engine with the ignition OFF.
J1259-1
FIG. 10 -Starter Cranking Circuit

Test
14-7
PART
14-2
FORD STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page

The Ford Starter Motor is a series

parallel wound four pole four brush
machine using a moving pole shoe
actuated positive pre-engaged pinion.
The mam battery supply is not
connected until the pinion is in
engagement unless tooth abutment is
encountered.
The starter motor is protected by
an overrunning clutch which disengages the drive between the
armature and ring gear as soon as the
Page

4 Major Repair Operations
engine starts and so prevents over

revving of the armature.
A remote relay connects the
starter to the battery when the starter
(ignition) switch is operate1.
When the starter is not in use, one
of the field coils is connected directly
to ground through a set of contacts.
When the starter is first connected to
the battery a large current flows
through the grounded field coil, actuating a movable pole shoe. The pole
14-8
14-8
shoe is attached to the starter drive

plunger lever and thus the drive is
forced into engagement with the flywheel.
When the movable pole shoe is
fully seated, it opens the field coil
grounding contacts and the starter is
then in normal operation. A holding
coil is used to maintain the movable
pole shoe in the fully seated position,
during the time that the starter is
turning the engine.

1.. Disconnect the starter cable at
the starter terminal.

3. Remove the starter mounting
EJ
14-7
14-7
Section
bolts. Remove the starter assembly:

4. Position the starter assembly to
the flywheel housing, and start the
mounting bolts.
5. Snug all bolts, then torque them

to specification.
6. Connect the starter cable.
COMMON ADJUST~ENTS AND REPAIRS
STARTER DRIVE REPLACEMENT

CIRCUIT TEST
1. Loosen and remove the brush
cover band and the starter drive
plunger lever cover.
2. Loosen the through bolts
enough to allow removal of the rear
end housing and the starter drive
plunger lever return spring.
3. Remove the pivot pin retaining
the starter drive plunger lever and remove the lever.
4. Remove the drive gear stop ring
retainer and stop ring from the end
of the armature shaft and remove the
drive gear assembly.
5. Apply a thin coating of Lubriplate on the armature shaft splines.
Install the drive gear assembly on
the armature shaft and install a new
stop ring.
6. Position the starter gear plunger lever on the starter frame and install the pivot pin. Be sure that the
plunger lever properly engages the
starter drive assembly.
7. Install a new stop-ring retainer.
Position the starter drive plunger lever return spring and rear end housing
to the starter frame, and then tighten
the through bolts to specifications

(55-75 inch pounds).
8. Position the starter drive plunger lever cover and the brush cover
band, with its gasket, on the starter.
Tighten the brush cover band retaining screw.
BRUSH REPLACEMENT
Replace the starter brushes when
they are worn to 1/.1 inch. Always install a complete set of new brushes.
1. Loosen and remove the brush
cover band, gasket, and starter drive
plunger lever cover. Remove the
brushes from their holders.
2. Remove the two through bolts
from the starter frame.
3. Remove the rear end housing,
and the plunger lever return spring.
4. Remove the starter drive plunger lever pivot pin and lever, and remove the annature.
5. Remove the front end plate.
6. Remove the ground brush retaining screws from the frame and
remove the brushes (cut the ground
brush nearest the starter terminal
from the brush terminal block, as
close to the brush lead terminal as
possible).
7. Cut (or unsolder) the insulated
brush leads from the field coils, as
close to the field connection point as
possible.
8. Clean and inspect the starter
motor.
9. Replace the front end plate if
the insulator between the field brush
holder and the end plate is cracked or
broken.
10. Position the new insulated
field brushes lead on the field coil
tenninal. Install the clip provided
with the brushes to hold the brush
lead to the terminal. Solder the
lead, clip and tenninal together,
using resin core solder (Fig. 4).
Use a 300 watt iron.
11. Install the ground brush leads
to the frame with the retaining
screws.
12. Clean the commutator with
#00 or #000 sandpaper.
13. Position the front end plate
to the starter frame, with the end
plate boss in the frame slot.
14. Position the fiber washer on
the commutator end of the armature
shaft and install the armature in the
14-8
starter frame.
15. Install the starter drive gear
plunger lever to the frame and starter
drive assembly, and install the pivot
pin.
16. Position the return spring on
the plunger lever, and the rear end
housing to the starter frame. Install
the through bolts and tighten to specified torque (55-75 inch pounds). Be
sure that the stop ring retainer is
seated properly in the rear end housing.
17. Install the commutator brushes
in the brush holders. Center the brush
springs on the brushes.
18. Position the plunger lever cover and the brush cover band, with its
gasket, on the starter. Tighten the
band retaining screw.
19. Connect the starter to a battery to check its operation.
EJ
ARMATURE REPLACEMENT
1. Loosen the brush cover band
retaining screw and remove the brush
cover band, gasket, and the starter
drive plunger lever cover. Remove
the brushes hom their holders.
2. Remove the through bolts, the
rear end housing, and the drive
plunger lever return spring.
the starter gear plunger lever, and
remove the lever.
4. Remove the armature. If the
starter drive gear assembly is being
reused, remove the stop ring. retainer
and the stop ring from the end of the
armature shaft, and remove the assembly.
S. Place the drive gear assembly
on the new armature with a new stop
ring.
6. Install the fiber thrust washer
1. Use a brush or air to ciean the

field coils, armature, commutator,
armature shaft, front end plate, and
rear end housing. Wash all other
parts in solvent and dry the parts.
amount of grease to the needles. If

the commutator is rough, or more
than 0.005 inch out-of-round, turn it
down.
2. Inspect the armature windings

for broken or burned insulation and
unsoldered connections.
4. Check the commutator for runout (Fig. 1). Inspect the armature
shaft and the two bearings for scoring and excessive wear. On a starter
with needle bearings apply a small
S. Check the brush holders for

broken springs and the insulated
brush holders for shorts to ground.
Tighten any rivets that may be loose.
Replace the brushes if worn to 'A
inch in length.
6. Check the brush spring tension.
Replace the springs if the tension is
not within specified limits (40 ounces
minimum).
3. Check the armature for open

circuits and grounds.
rJ
on the commutator end of the armature shaft and install the armature.
7. Position the drive gear plunger
lever to the frame and drive gear assembly and install the pivot pin.
8. Position the drive plunger lever
return spring, the rear end housing,
and the front end plate to the starter
frame, and then install and tighten
the through bolts to specification. Be
seated properly in the drive gear
housing. If the starter has needle
bearings apply a small amount of
grease to the needles before installing
the starter ends.
9. Place the brushes in their holders, and center the brush springs on
the brushes.
10. Position the plunger lever cover and the brush cover band, with its
gasket, and then tighten the retaining
screw.
11. Connect the starter to a battery to check its operation.
FIG.
Check
1-Commutator Runout
7. Inspect the field coils for burned

or broken insulation and continuity.
Check the field brush connections
and lead insulation.
Use the following procedure when

it becomes necessary to completely
overhaul the starter. Fig. 2 iilustrates
a partially disassembled starter.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Loosen the brush cover band
retaining screw and remove the brush
cover band and the starter drive
plunger lever cover. Observe the lead
positions for assembly and then re-
move the commutator brushes from

the brush holders.
2. Remove the through bolts,
starter rear end housing, and the
starter drive plunger lever rc;tum
spring.
the starter gear plunger lever and remove the lever and the armature.
4. Remove the stop ring retainer.
Remove and discard the stop ring re-
taining the starter drive gear to the

end of the armature shaft, and remove the starter drive gear assembly.
S. Remove the front end plate.
6. Remove the two screws retaining the ground brushes to the frame.
7. On the field coil that operates
the starter drive gear actuating lever, bend the tab up on the field retainer and remove the coil retainer.
8. Remove the three coil retaining
PART 14-4- FORD STARTING SYSTEM REPAIR
START ER FRAME
14-9
RE AR END
HOUSING
11130
FIELD COILS 11082
START ER DRI VE
11 350
BRU SH COVER
BAND 11126
ARMATURE 11005
""""'~-,)
STARTE R DRIV E......
~
~
PLUNGER LEV ER
11067
~o.
/ "'ITt');/
PLUNGER RET URN
'
SPRING 111 03
ST OP RING
STOP RIN G
COVER 11060
()
11222
RETAINER
11223
J 1089-D
FIG. 2-Starter Disassembled

Jl 092-C
screws, using tool 10044-A and an

arbor press (Fig. 3). The arbor press
prevents the wrench from slipping
out of the screw. Unsolder the field
coil leads from the terminal screw,
and remove the pole ~hoes and coils
from the frame (use a 300-watt
iron).
USE Arbor Press TO HOLD
Tool IN SCREW SOCKET
BE SURE TO SEAT DRIVE HEAD

IN SCREW SOCKET
J1 059- C
FIG. 3-Pole Shoe Saew

Removal
9. Cut (or unsolder) the insulated
brush leads from the field coils, as
close to the field connection point as
possible.
10. Remove the starter terminal
nut, washer, insulator and terminal
from the starter frame. Remove any
excess solder from the terminal slot.
PARTS REPAIR OR
REPLACEMENT
Nicks and scratches may be removed from the commutator by
turning it down. A brush kit and a

contact kit are available. All other
assemblies are to be replaced rather
than repaired. If the starter has needle bearings, apply a small amount of
grease to the needles before assembly.
ASSEMBLY
1. Install the starter terminal, inwashers, and retaining nut in

the frame (Fig. 4). Be sure to position the slot in the screw perpendicular to the frame end surface.
l. Position the coils and pole
pieces, with the coil leads in the terminal screw slot, and then install the
retaining screws (Fig. 3). As the pole
shoe screws are tightened, strike the
frame several sharp blows with a softfaced hammer to seat and align the
pole shoes, then stake the screws.
3. Install the solenoid coil and retainer and bend the tabs to retain the
coils to the frame.
4. Solder the field coils and solenoid wire to the starter terminal using rosin core solder. Use a 300-watt
iron.
5. Check for continuity and
grounds in the assembled coils.
6. Position the new insulated field
brushes lead on the field coil terminal. Install the clip provided with the
brushes to hold the brush lead to the
terminal. Solder the lead, clip, and
termit>~l together, using rosin core
solder (Fig. 4). Use a 300-watt iron.
7. Position the solenoid coil
ground terminal over the nearest
ground screw hole.
8. Position the ground brushes to
~ulator,
FIG. 4-Field Coil Assembly

the starter frame and install the retaining screws (Fig. 4).
9. Position the starter brush end
plate to the frame, with the end plate
boss in the frame slot.
10. Apply a thin coating of Lubriplate on the armature shaft splines.
Install the starter motor drive gear
assembly to the armature shaft
and install a new retaining stop
ring. Install a new stop ring retain-
er.
11. Position the fiber thrust washer on the commutator end of the
armature shaft and position the armature in the starter frame.
ll. Position the starter drive gear
plunger lever to the frame and starter drive assembly, and install the pivot pin.
13. Position the starter drive
plunger lever return spring and the
rear end housing to the frame and install and tighten the through bolts to
specification (SS -15 inch pounds).
Do not pinch the brush leads between
the brush plate and the frame. Be
seated properly in the drive housing.
14. Install the brushes in the brush
holders. Be sure to center the brush
springs on the brushes.
15. Position the drive gear plunger lever cover on the starter and install the brush cover band with a
gasket. Tighten the band retaining
screw.
16. Check the starter no-load amperage draw.
14-10
PART
14-3
BOSCH STARTING SYSTEM

250, 302, 351 2V
Page
Section
3 Major Repair Operations ...... ,..... ......
II
14-10
14-11
14-11
The Bosch Starter Motor is a series

parallel wound, four pole four brush
machine with solenoid actuated positive pre-engaged pinion. The main
battery supply is not connected until
the pinion is in engagement unless
tooth abutment is experienced. The
drive connection between starter armature and ring gear is automatically
broken by the overrunning clutch
coupling, which disengages the drive
as soon as the engine speed exceeds
that of the starter.
Closing the mlenoid switching circuit energises the pull-in and hold-in
solenoid windings. The soft iron plun-
ger is drawn in moving the engaging

lever which in turn moves the drive
assembly towards the ring gear. The
helical splines on the armature shaft
rotate the pinion slowly to assist in
engagement.
Should a tooth of the advancing
pinion abut a tooth of the ring gear,
the engaging lever will compress the
helical spring at the pinion until the
switch contacts close. The pinion is
then turned and engages with the ring
gear under the helical spring pressure.
Before the pinion is completely in
mesh the contacts in the solenoid
switch are closed by the action of the
FIG 1. BOSCH STARTER MOTOR
soft iron plunger. The starter then

rotates and cranks the engine. When
the starter rotates, the pull-in winding is de-energised by the isolation of
its ground connection, providing more
power for cranking.
As the starting speed of the engine
exceeds that of the starter, the pinion
rotates freely and engine acceleration
does not affect the starter. The drive
is pulled back by the tensional helical
spring, but, the pinion remains partly
engaged as long as the starter switch
is operated. Once the starter switch is
released, the plunger return spring
moves the pinion to its rest position
and the switch contacts open.
PART 10-4 BOSCH STARTING SYSTEM
EJ
I. Disconnect the starter cable at

the starter terminal, remove the
flywheel housing to starter retaining
screws. Remove the starter assembly"
EJ
14-11
2. Position the starter assembly to

the flywheel housing, and start the
starter retaining screws.
On a car with an automatic transmission, the transmission dipstick
tube bracket is mounted under the

starter side mounting bolt. Snug all
bolts, then tighten to specifications,
tightening the middle bolt first .
3. Reconnect starter cable from
battery and wiring to switch.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Disconnect the solenoid switch
to starter motor lead from the solenoid switch terminal (9).
2. Remove the two solenoid switch
attaching screws.
3. Remove solenoid (10) by lifting
and unhooking the plunger yoke from
engaging lever (11).
4. Remove the two bearing cap
screws ( 1), pull off bearing cap (2),
and remove circlip (3) .
5. Remove through bolts (4) .
6. Remove commutator end cover
(5).
7. Remove four brushes (6) and

brush holder (7) plate.
8. Withdraw armature (15) with
drive end housing ( 17) engaging lever
(11).
9. Remove engaging lever fulcrum bolt (14) to release engaging
lever and armature from drive end
housing.
10. Press stop ring (18) on armature shaft towards drive assembly.
11. Remove spring ring ( 19).
12. Remove drive assembly ( 16).
16
FIG. 2
15
12
SECTIONIZED VIEW BOSCH STARTER
TESTING STARTER
COMPONENTS
1.
Cleaning and ln:'pection

Clean and inspect all parts. Check
all bushings, bearing surfaces, pinion,
engaging mechanism and electrical
contacts for wear and replace worn
parts. Check electrical joints and connections and repair where necessary.
Field Coils
Test field coils for open circuits
with an incandescent low-voltage test
lamp in series. Test lamp must light if
circuit through field coils is complete.
Disconnect all ground connections
and connect test latnp from field
winding terminal to ground. Test
lamp will not light if field coil insulation is good.
Defective field coils should be removed with an approved pole shoe
screw driver only.
2.
Armature
Test armature winding for short
circuits in a growler and test insulation to ground with test lamp as
under 2.
The commutator should not be erroded or out-of-round. If it is necessary to re-dress the commutator, ensur<! its minimum diameter is not less
than specification. Undercut mica
between segments using a ground
down hacksaw blade or undercutting
machine.
3.
Carbon Brushes
Make sure brush~s slide smoothly
in their holders, brush connections
are good and brushes are clean and
not chipped. Brushes worn to less
than ~" long should be replaced, at
which time the commutator must be

machined. Always replace the complete brush set. Check brush spring
tension according to the prescribed
figures with spring balance. Replace
springs that do not conform to specifications.
5.
Bushings
Replace worn bushings by pressing
the old bushing out with a correct fitting mandrel and press the new bushing into place in like manner. New
sintered .bushings should be soaked in
oil for one hour before installation.
4.
Solenoid Switch
Remove switch cover fastening
screws. Unsolder external joints
where the winding ends are connected to the terminals and remove cover.
G.
14-12
Inspect contact bolts and contact
plate for wear and replace worn contacts. The short contact bolt is retained in place, after the terminal
nut is removed, by an external connecting strap from the solenoid winding terminaL This connecting strap
can be removed by prising the strap
away from the switch cover with a
screw driver. A replacement bolt can
be lightly pressed into the connecting
strap and after two or more threads
have entered, the terminal nut can be
used to draw the bolt into place.
The moving contact is secured by
a contracted washer. This washer can
be removed with a pair of side-cutters. After fitting a new moving contact, a circlip and cup washer must be
used to secure the contact; crimp cup
washer over circlip.
The operation of the detached
switch can be checked by connecting
a battery supply through a variable
resistance to both pull-in and holdin windings and increasing the voltage gradually until at 6.0 volts or less
the plunger moves into its operational
position. The plunger should return
to the rest position when the voltage
is reduced to, from 0.05-0.4 volts.
When an ignition coil resistor short
circuiting terminal No. 16 or C is
incorporated in the switch cover, the
terminal must be energised when the
switch is in the closed position.
A~SEMBLY
L Replace drive assembly (16).

2. Fit the stop ring (18) on the
armature shaft to allow the spring
ring ( 19) to fit in its groove in the
armature shaft.
3. Slide the stop ring (18) over
the spring ring ( 19) to lock the spring
ring in position.
4. Assemble the armature (15)
and engaging lever (11) in the drive
end housing (17) and replace the
engaging lever fulcrum bolt.
5. Insert the armature and drive
end housing assembly in to the carcass.
6. 'Replace the brush holder plate
(7) 'ind the brushes (6).
7. Assemble the commutator end
cover and through bolts.
8. Replace the circlip (3) the
bearing cap (2) and the bearing cap
screen (2).
9. Refit the solenoid and attaching screws.
10. Reconnect the solenoid switch
to starter motor lead, to the solenoid

1-------11
terminal (9).
IMPORTANT: Ensure that a
water tight seal is made at rubber
packing (13).
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
Armature End Play
The armature end play is the
lengthwise travel (longitudinal) of
the armature in its bearings. Too
little or too much end play results in
increased wear of the bearings.
The end play is adjusted by placing or removing shims at the commutator end between the end cover
and circlip on the armature. Adjust
to specification.
Armature Braking Torque
The total armature braking torque
is composed of brush, bearing and the
auxiliary armature brake torque.
Too high a braking torque results
in excessive mechanical wear and
armature brake heating.
Too low a braking torque results in
extended starter stopping time. Also,
the starter overrunning acceleration
will be too high. Armature torque can
be measured with a torque balance.
Clutch Overrunning Torque
The overrunning torque of the
clutch assembly is the force necessary
to turn the pinion in a rotary direction while the armature shaft is held
sationary. Too low an overrunning
torque may prevent starter power
application. If the overrunning torque
is too high, the armature can reach
too high e speed and may be damaged.
For measuring overrunning torque,
move the pinion forward at least 0.4",
with armature stationary measure
torque in direction of rotation. Clutch
assemblies not conforming to the
specifications must be replaced.
ELECTRICAL TESTS OF
ASSEMBLED STARTER MOTOR
The electrical test values depend
upon the condition of the battery
(capacity and charge). The testing
period also plays an important part
(heating of the starter and battery
discharge) . Long cables on the test
bench also influence starter performance. The test period should therefore
be as short as possible. The batteries
must be in good condition and well
charged or the electrical values of a
faulty starter will differ considerably
from the specified test data.
Circuit Diagram
The internal circuitry of the starter
and the electrical connections are
given in the diagram above.
1.
Short-circuit Test
Clamp starter in test bench and
connect in accordance with the wiring
diagram.
The ring gear of the test bench and
the starter pinion must have the same
pitch; adjust backlash and out of
mesh clearance.
Operate starter and apply test
bench brake until pinion is almost to
a standstill. At this moment read current and voltage which must conform
to specifications.
2.
3.
Load Test
Clamp starter and connect as in
short circuit test. Operate starter and
apply brake until the specified current draw is recorded, read voltage
and RPM.
Free Running Test
Re-position starter on test bench so
that pinion and ring gear cannot
engage. Connect as for previous tests.
Operate starter, read amperage, voltage and RPM.
4.
14-13
PART
14-4
LUCAS STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page
14-13
14-14
Major Repair Operations ......
DESCRIPTION
The Lucas starting motor model

M40AK is a pre-engaged, four pole,
four brush, four inch diameter
machine with a series parallel
connected field, an armature with
a face type commutator and a
solenoid operated roller clutch drive.
The face type commutator on the
end face of the armature works in
conjunction with a fully insulated
brush bear assembly comprising two
pairs of brushes and coil type springs
assembled into a brush box moulding
attached to the inside of the end
cover by two Phillips head screws
which also act as earth returns for
the starter earth brushes.
OPERATION
Closing the solenoid switching

circuit energises the pull in and hold
in solenoid windings. The soft iron
plunger is drawn in moving the
engaging lever which in turn moves
the drive assembly towards the ring
gear. The helical splines on the
armature shaft rotate the pinion
slowly to assist in engagement.
Should a tooth of the advancing
pinion abut a tooth of the ring gear,
the engaging lever will compress the
helical spring at the pinion until
the switch contacts close. The pinion
is then turned and engages with the
ring gear under the helical spring
pressure.
FIG. 1 -Lucas Starting Motor
REMOVAL & INSTALLAT ION
1. Disconnect the starter cable

at the starter motor terminal, remove
the flywheel housing to starter retaining screws. Remove the starter
assembly.
2. Position the starter assembly
to the flywheel housing and start the
FIG. 2- Wiring Diagram M40AK Starting Motor.
14-14
starter retaining screws. On a car with

automatic transmission, the transmission dipstick tube bracket is
mounted under the starter side
mounting bolt. Snug all bolts, then
tighten to specification, tighten the
middle bolt first.
3. Reconnect the starter cable
from battery and wiring to switch.

DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the field coil/solenoid

linking cable from the solenoid
terminal.
2. Remove the starter motor
through bolts.
3. Remove the brush gear retaining screws.
4. Withdraw commutator end
cover assembly and field yoke assy.
5. Unscrew the solenoid retaining
nuts and remove the solenoid.
6. Remove the armature assy.
the armature shaft.
8. Remove the jump ring.
9. Remove the thrust collar.
10. Withdraw pinion and drive assy.
11. Remove the pinion engaging
lever pivot lock nut, pivot and remove lever.
TESTING STARTER COMPONENTS
1 . Clean and inspect all parts.

Check all bushings, bearing surfaces,
pinion, engaging mechanism and electrical contacts for wear and replace
worn parts. Check electrical joints
and connections and repair where
necessary .
2. FlEW COILS.
The field winding insulation can be
checked by connecting a 11 0 volt AC
15 watt test lamp between one of
the brushes and part of the yoke. If
the lamp lights it indicates that the
field coils are earthed. Remove and
rectify or replace the field coils as
required.
Check field coil continuity by
connecting a 12 V battery operated
test lamp, between each of the field
coil brushes, and the field terminal.
The lamp will light if continuity is
satisfactory.
3. BEARING REPLACEMENT.
Both end brackets are fitted with
self lubricating porous bronze bearing
bushes. New bushes must be immersed
in clean engine oil (SAE 30-40 Grade)
for a minimum of 24 hrs. before
fitting and must not be reamed after
fitting.
Bushes should be replaced on the
occasion of a major engine overhaul
or when the starter motor is to be
fitted to a replacement engine.
The bush in the drive end housing

can be pressed out whilst supporting
the housing.
the
bush in the
Remove
commutator end bracket by inserting
a 9/16" tap for a few turns into the
bush and withdraw the bush with
the tap.
CLUTCH AND
4. ROLLER
DRIVE.
The roller clutch is an over running
or free wheeling device, which prevents the armature from being rotated
at an excessive speed in the event of
the drive being held in engagement
after the engine has started.
A roller clutch drive assembly in
good condition will provide instantaneous take up of the drive in one
direction and rotate smoothly and
easily in the other. The assembly
should move freely round and along
the armature shaft splines without
any roughness or tendency to bind .
Should the assembly not meet
these requirements, a replacement
unit should be fitted.
All moving parts should be liberally smeared with Molybond GS1 0
grease or a suitable equivalent.
5 . BRUSH BOX.
Each of the four brushes should be
free to move in the brush box moulding. Sticking brushes can usually be
freed by cleaning the brushes and
moulding with a petrol moistened
cloth. Brushes which are worn to or
are approaching 3/8" in length must
FIG. 3 -Testing the Brush Spring

tension.
be renewed as a set. Note the positions of the long and short brush
leads in relation to the commutator
end bracket and field winding termination.
(a) FIT NEW BRUSHES AS
FOLLOWS:The two earth brushes, flexible leads
and fixing plates are serviced as
complete assemblies.
To replace the field coil brushes,
cut off their flexible lead 1/8 - 1/4"
from the field winding joint. Solder
the new long and short brush leads
to the ends of the original leads.
Ensure that the insulated sleeves
on the leads provide maximum
coverage consistent with satisfactory
soldering.
(b) BRUSH SPRINGS.
To measure the brush spring pressures,
position a new brush in each of the
brush boxes in turn and then press
on top of the brush with a push type
spring gauge until the top of the
brush protrudes about 1I16" from the
brush box moulding. At this point
the ~pring pressure reading should be
approx. 28 oz. F. (see FIG. 3).
6. COMMUTATOR.
A commutator in good condition
will be burnished and free from pits
and burned spots. Clean the
commutator with a petrol moistened
cloth. If the commutator is badly
worn, mount the armature between
centres in a lathe, rotate at high
speed and take a light cut with a very
sharp cutting tool. Do not remove
more metal than is necessary. The
minimum thickness to which the
commutator may be skimmed before
replacement is 0 .080". The commutator surface should be finally
polished with very fine glass paper.
NOTE: The insulators between the
commutator segments must not be
undercut.
7. FOULING OF ARMATURE
AGAINST POLE FACES.
Fouling of the armature against the
pole faces indicates either worn
bearings or a distorted shaft. A
damaged armature must in all cases
be replaced and no attempt should be
made to machine the armature core
or to straighten a distorted shaft.
8. ARMATURE WINDING INSULATION TESTS.
(a) To check the insulation of the
armature windings, remove all traces
of brush dust with a dry air blast
Using a 11 0 volt AC 15 watt test lamp,
connect between a commutator segment and the armature shaft. If the
lamp lights replace the armature.
(b) Check the armature for short
14-15
PART 13-4 LUCAS STARTING SYSTEM
1. Bracket, Commutator End

2. Brush Spring and Plate Assembly
3. Brush Box Moulding
4. Face Type Commutator.
5. Bolt, Through Fixing.
10. Solenoid 16S.

11. Lever, Pinion Engaging.
12. Pivot Pin and Retaining Nut.
13. Nuts and Washers, Solenoid Fixing.
6. Yoke and Field Coils Assembly.

7. Drive Assembly.
8. Bracket, Drive End.
9. Bush, Bearing.
FIG. 4- Starting Motor (pre-engaged) Model M40AK.
DIAGRAM (A)
circuited windings using a "Growler"

equipment. Replace the armature if
a fault is indicated.
TO REASSEMBLE
During assembly operations place

a few drops of engine oil on the
armature shaft bushes. Smear Molybond GSlO grease on the armature
shaft and drive assembly helix. Also
on the pivot points of the pinion
engaging lever.
Always use new jump rings during
assembly.
1. Assemble the pinion and drive
assembly to the armature shaft using
a new jump ring.
2. Assemble the pinion engaging
lever to the drive end bracket (closed
side of the lever toward the drive end
bearing). Do not fit the lock nut to
pivot pin at this stage.
3. Assemble the solenoid to the
drive end bracket and tighten the
nuts.
4. Assemble the brushes to the
brush box and attach the box to the
commutator end bracket using the
two attaching screws and washers.
BRUSH GEAR
RETAINING SCREWS
FIG. 5 -1740 AK starting motor.
14-16
NOTE: Ensure the long field brush

lead "passes through the arch of the
adjacent earth brush fixing plate.
(FIG. 6).
DIAGRAM (B)
LONGER FIELD BRUSH LEAD THREADED
THROUGH EARTH BRUSH TERMINAL
5. Assemble the armature and

drive assembly to the drive end
bracket.
6. Assemble the yoke and field
coil assembly to the drive end
bracket.
7. Assemble the commutator end
bracket and brush gear assembly to
the yoke and field coil assembly. Fit
the through bolts and torque to
specification.
8. Assemble the field coil/solenoid
linking cable and tighten the nut.
PINION ENGAGING LEVER AD
JUSTMENT
a. Disconnect the solenoid lead to

the starter motor field .
b. Energise the solenoid with a 6-8
volt supply.
(6-8 volts is used to prevent solenoid
over heating).
c. Using a screw driver in the recess,
turn the pivot pin until the correct
setting of O.Ql5 .005 is obtained
between the pinion face and the
thrust collar.
d. Fit the lock nut to the eccentric
pivot pjn and lock pin in position.
FIG. 6- Commutator end bracket, inside view.
14-17
PART
14-5
SPECIFICATIONS
FORD STARTER (8 Cylinder

Engine) 3514V
Vendor
Current Draw
Under
Normal
Load
!Amperes)
Normal
Enrine
Crankinr
Speed
lrpml
Ford Positive Engagement 4 1!2-lnch Diameter
250
250-290
Minimum
Stall
Torque@
7 Volts
!Foot Pounds!
Bruabes
Maximum
NoLoad
Load
(Amperes) IAmperesl
14
600
60
Mfr.
Lenrth
llnchesl
Wear
Limit
llnchesl
Brusn
Sprinr
Tensio1
IDuncesl
0.5
0.25
40
Maximum commutator runout in inches is 0.005.

Maximum starting circuit voltage drop (battery + terminal to starter terminal @ normal engine temperature) 0.5 volt.
Starter through-bolt torque 55-75 inch pounds.
Starter mounting-bolt torque 3; 8 inch bolt two-hole mounting 15-20 foot pounds, 5/ 16 inch bolt three-hole mounting 12-15 foot pounds.
BOSCH SOLENOID UNIT

Resistance of ma tn closing or
sertes wtndin g
- R-estslance of
hold -on or shunt
0.40-0.46 ohm
BOSCH STARTER
1.351 .60 ohms"
wtn dtng
250 1V - 2V - 302 2V - 351 2V
Spr tng pr essure to push plunge r

fully home
1620 lb .
Spring pressure to close sta rte r

swttch con tact s
1014 lb.
Tota l spindle trave l
0.170"" -0.210'"
Contact " follow-thr ough''
0.028 "-0.101 "
"Measured betwee11 the small terminal screw and terminal " STA" . W~en
Lucar terminals are ftned. between small terminal on rioht as viewed
from commutator end .
.. Measured between the small term inal screw and earth. t. e. solenoid
outer case or body.
Short Circuit Test

Load Test
No Load Test
Commutator
Out of round
Mica undercut
Amp
395-445
210-240
50-70
R.P.M.
Volts
6.0
9.0
12.0
1150-1450
5900-7100
0.002" max.
0.03125" max.
Brush Gear
Minimum length
Spring Tension
Armature
End Play
Braking Torque
0.5"
41-46 ozs.
0.002-0.012
2.2-3.5 in. ozs.
Solenoid
Pull-in Voltage
Drop-out Voltage
The specifications referred to above were in effect at the t ime th is publication

was approved for printing, however Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited
and/ or Ford Sales Company of Australia Limited , reserves the right, su bject to the
laws of any state or territory and the regulations of any competant authority which
may be applicable at the time, at its discretion and without notice , to change the
specifications and prices of the products referred to herein at any time and without
incurring any liability whatsover to any purchaser thereof.
Max.6
0.05-0.4
14-18
SPECIFICATIONS
LUCAS M40AK STARTING MOTOR

USED ON XA FALCON 200 CID ONLY
Lock Torque
Current
Terminal Voltage
Running Torque
@ 1000 r.p.m .
Current
Terminal Voltage
15 lb/pt
430A
7.0 v .1
7 lb/ft
280A
9.4 v .1
SOLENOID TYPE 16S

Pull in voltage
Current draw 2 coils
Hold in winding
Resistance Series winding
Resistance shunt winding
7.5 volts maximum

60 amps maximum
12 amps.
0 .225 .017 ohms
0 .95 .07 ohms
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Solenoid fixing nuts
Terminal nut
4-5 lbs/ft.
20-24 lbs/in.
LIGHTING
GROUP
15
PAGE
General Lighting System, Horns

and Instruments Service
15-2
PART 15-2-
Lighting System and Horns
15-7
PART 15-3-
Switches, Circuit Breakers and

Fuses
15-12
PART 15-4-
Instruments
15-14
PART 15-5-
Specifications
15-23
PART 15-1-
15-2
PART
15-1
GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND

INSTRUMENT SERVICE
Section
Page
1 Diag nosis and Testing

Light Trouble Diagnosis Guide
Instrument Trouble Diagnos is Guide
Horn Trouble Diag nosis Guide
Turn Indicator Trouble Diagnosis Guide
Windshield Wiper Trouble Diagnosi s Guide
Headlight Switch and Beam Selector Switch
Test
Constant Voltage Regulator Test
15-2
15-2
15-3
15-3
15-3
15-3
155
15-5
Section
Page
Fuel Guage and Fuel Level Sending Unit Test

Temperature Guage Test
Oil Pressure Indicator Light Test
Charge Indicator Light Test
Speedometer Tests
Horn Adjustment
3 Clean ing and Inspection
Two Speed Wiper Motor
15-5
15-5
15-5
15-5
15-4
15-6
15-6
15-6
15-6
LIGHT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
ALL HEADLIGHTS DO
NOT LIGHT
1. Loose battery cable.

l. Loose quick disconnect or broken wire from the battery to the
headlight switch.
3. Defective headlight switch.
4. Disconnected or broken wire
from the headlight switch to the
beam selector switch.
INDIVIDUAL LIGHTS
DO NOT LIGHT
1. Burned out bulb.

l. Loose or broken wires to the
bulb.
LIGHTS BURN OUT

REPEATEDLY
1. Loose or corroded electrical

connections.
l. Excessive vibration.
5. Loose or broken wire to the

bulbs.
6. Defective beam selector switch.
7. All headlight bulbs burned out.
This may be caused by a defective
or improperly adjusted alternator
voltage regulator (Group 13).
3. Poor ground.
3. Improperly adjusted or defective alternator voltage regulator

(Group 13).
INSTRUMENT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR

LIGHT INOPERATIVE
CHARGE INDICATOR
LIGHT INOPERATIVE
CHARGE INDICA TOR
LIGHT STAYS ON AT
IDLE
1. Indicator bulb burned out.

l. Loose or broken wire from the
light to the indicator switch.
1. Burned out bulb.
1. Faulty alternator and/or regulator.
1. Loose terminals on fuel gauge.

FUEL GAUGE ERRATIC
OR INOPERATIVE
l . Defective fuel gauge.

3. Loose, broken, or shorted wire
from fuel gauge to the fuel tank
sending unit.
3. Defective oil pressure sender

unit (in this part).
l. Loose or broken wires.
2. Loose fan belt.
4. Defective constant voltage regulator.

5. Defective fuel tank sending
unit.
6. Poor ground between fuel tank
and body.
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
I""'
pART 15-1- GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS INSTRUMENTS SERVICE

INSTRUMENT TROUBLE
15-3
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
1. Loose terminals on temp gauge.

TEMPERATURE GAUGE
ERRA TIC OR INOPERATIVE
FUEL, TEMPERATURE, AND

OIL PRESSURE GAUGES
ERRATIC
l. Defective temperature gauge.

3. Loose or broken wire from the
temperature sending unit to the tern1. Loose or corroded constant
voltage regulator ground.
l. Defective constant voltage regulator.
perature gauge.
4. Defective temperature sending
unit.
5. Defective constant voltage regulator.
3 Broken or loose conductor from

or to the constant voltage regulator.
4. Defective ignition switch.
HORN TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
HORNS DO NOT SOUND
ONE HORN FAILS

T0 OPERATE
HORNS OPERATE
cONTINUOUSLY
1. Loose connections at horn button con tact.

2. Open wire (blue/red) from
horn to horn button.
3. Open wire (green) from fuse
box to horn button.

4. Horns defective or out of adjustment.
1. Broken or loose wire to the

horn (blue/red).
l. Horn defective or out of adjustment.
5. Fuse burned out.
1. Horn button defective.
TURN INDICATOR TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS

I NOPERATIVE
1. Burned out bulbs, or loose

sockets.
l. Loose or broken wire from
ignition switch to flasher.
3. Defective flasher.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS

OPERATE INCORRECTLY
1. Burned out bulb.

l. Loose, broken, or shorted wires
from switch to lights.
TURN INDICATOR
cANCELS IMPROPERLY
1. Cam improperly positioned on

steering wheel hub.
4. Loose or broken wire from

flasher to turn indicator switch.
5. Defective turn indicator switch.
6. Broken, shorted, or loose wires
from switch to lights.
3. Defective indicator switch.
4. Defective flasher.
l. Coil spring on switch plate assembly loose or weak.
WINDSHIELD WIPER TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
I NOPERATIVE OR SLOW
WIPER
1. Binding linkage.
1. Defective switch.
3. Defective wiper motor
4. Defective wiring or blown fuse.
GROUP 15 LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
15-4
AA ~L.CC)IIJ
LOCA'nc:;lo".(
'Qt.ACK t:~CT '
- y
!f:-;.~~~~..t.-:.:.~
.,..lJrtl07
- CL.~
@
@
~.
''
,;- . M-0
-----\
'\
,,
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'
~O:SZ4 - _,.,. 8CII..T
~0 - &N - ~HEIIII
'
,,'
"'
FIG. 1 -Installation Speedo Cable.
SPEEDOMETER DIAGNOSTIC
PROCEDURES
Speedometer system complaints are
generally the result of a visible or
audible defect in the system. It is imperative that the specific defect be
determined prior to attempting any
physical repairs to preclude unnecessarily disassembling system components. The following suggestions are
intended to aid in quick and accurate
system problem diagnosis.
VISIBLE DEFECTS
Slight Needle Waver or
Severe Needle Fluctuation
(No Noise)
I. Loose cable retainer .

l. Defective speedometer head.
3. Bent cable core at attaching
nut.
4. Kinked or pinched cable housing.
5. Excessive grease in speedometer head.
Inoperative
1. Broken cable core.
l. Defective drive and/ or driven
gear.
3. Defective speedometer head.
AUDIBLE DEFECTS
Clicking or Ticking (With
Needle Waver), Grinding
or Ringing
I. Loose cable retainer.

l. Defective drive and/ or driven
gear.
3. Defective speedometer head.
4. No lube on cable.
SPEEDOMETER REPAIR
PROCEDURES
NOTE: To effect any tests or repairs
on the speedometer head the instrument cluster must be detached from
the instrument panel (see page 1515)
to gain access.
DEFECfiVE SPEEDOMETER
HEAD
Before removing a speedometer
head, disconnect the cable at the
head and insert a short section of cable core in the head. Rotate the section of core to check for any dragging or noise. The speedometer shaft
should turn freely and evenly.
DEFEq'IVE CABLE CORE
AND HOUSING
1. To check for a kinked cable
core remove and wipe dry. Lay the
core out stra\ght on a flat surface
and roll it back and forth . Any kinks
or damage will be seen. Then take
an end in each hand, allowing core
to hang in approximately a 9-inch
loop. Rotate both ends to be sure
core turns evenly.
2. Routing of the cable housing is
particularly important where the cable leaves the speedometer head. The
optimum routing would provide that
the cable and housing take virtually
no change of direction for at least
a length of 8 inches from the speedometer head.
3. When installing a new cable
and housing it is necessary that the
new assembly be guided and routed
properly to eliminate any kinks.
4. Proper lubrication of the cable
core is accomplished by a light
application of a lubricant after the
cable has been wiped clean. A light
film is all that is required.
DEFECTIVE DRIVE AND
DRIVEN GEARS
1. A score nicked or gouged driven gear is usually indicative of a defective drive gear on those vehicles
that have the drive gear integral
with the transmission output shaft.
The output shaft should be carefully
inspected for imperfections and replaced if necessary.
2. A driven gear with two or
three adjoining teeth badly scored is
indicative of improper assembly procedure. The gear should be inserted
in the transmission while simultaneously turning the drive shaft. This
will insure initial gear engagement
and prevent gear damage. Force
should never be used.
3. Whenever a drive gear is replaced, a new driven gear should al-
PART 15-1- GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS INSTRUMENTS SERVICE

so be installed, regardless of its apparent condition.
nSTING
Refer to Group 22 for schematics and locations of wiring harnesses.
HORN TEST
The only test necessary on the
horn is for current draw.
Current Draw Test
Connect a voltmeter and ammeter

to the horn and to a voltage supply
as shown in Fig. 2. The normal
current draw for the horns at 12
volts is 4-5 amperes.
N;~~~~
~
LEAD
POS.I~
LEAD
-4~-...,.--
FIG. 2 -Horn Current Draw Test

HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND
BEAM SELECTOR SWITCH TESTS
The following tests may be made
to determine whether a headlight
switch or a beam selector sw1tch is
defective:
Turn on the headlights, and operate the beam selector switch. If none
of the headlights turn on when the
beam selector switch is operated, yet
the instrument panel lights operate,
the headlight switch or the red-yellow stripe wire from the headlight
switch to the beam control switch is
probably defective. Suhstitute a
known good switch for the suspected
switch to determine whether the
switch or the wiring is at fault.
If the headlights operate only with
the beam selector switch in one position, the selector switch or the wiring from the switch to the headlight
is defective. Substitute a known good
selector switch for the suspected
switch to determine whether the
switch or the wiring is at fault.
CONSTANT VOLTAGE
REGULATOR TEST
The instrument cluster must be removed to gain access to the voltage
regulator and gauge terminals.
Turn the ignition switch on, check
for voltage at the fuel gauge upper
terminal (Falcon) temp gauge terminal adjacent to the regulator screw.
The voltage should oscillate beabout
10
tween
zero
and
volts. If it does not, the constant

voltage regulator is defective, or
there is a short to ground between
the voltage regulator and the gauges.
If a gauge unit is inaccurate or
does not indicate, replace it with a
new unit. If the gauge unit still is
erratic in its operation, the sending
unit or wiring to the sending unit is
faulty.
If both the fuel gauge and the
temperature gauge indicate improperly and in the same direcdon, the
constant voltage regulator could be
defectin, as it supplies both gauges.
TESTING FUEL AND

TEMPERATURE GAUGES
FUEL GAUGE.
A simple check to show whether it
is the sender unit or gauge unit at
fault is to fit a known good sender
unit in the circuit.
If the gauge unit reads proportionate to the float setting, the gauge
unit is correct .
Do not test gauge units by shorting
terminals direct to earth. Minimum
circuit resistance is to be held to
10 ohms for high indication. Lower
resistances will destroy calibration.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE TEST
Start the engine and allow it to
run at 1200 rpm for 30 minutes.
Place a thermometer in the coolant
at the radiator filler cap. The temperature should read a minimum of
180F., and the gauge in the instrument panel should indicate within
the normal band.
If the gauge does not indicate,
short the temperature sender unit
terminal wire to ground (ignition
switch on). Do not leave the sender
wire grounded longer than necessary
to make the test, as the gauge may
be damaged. If the gauge now indicates, the sender unit is defective or
not properly sealed to the engine. Be
sure to use an electrically conductive
sealer. If the gauge does not indicate, the gauge, the wires leading to
the gauge, or the constant voltage
regulator are at fault.
15-5
out, indicating that the oil pressure

has built up a safe value.
To test the oil pressure switch on
the engine, turn the ignition switch
on, engine not running, the indicator
hgnt snould come on. If the indicator light does not come on, shch"t the
terminal of the oil pressure switch
unit to ground. If the tight now
comes on, the oil pressure switch is
defective or not properly sealed to
the engine. Be sure to use electrically conductive sealer
If the light still does not come on,
the bulb is burned out or the wires
from the bulb to the ignition switch
and oil pressure switch are defective.
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT

TEST
.To test the charge indicator light,
turn the ignition switch on with the
engine stopped. The light should
come on. If it does not, the bulb is
burned out, or the wiring to the light
is defective or there is a fault in the
alternator/regulator circuit. Remove
the wiring plug from the D+ terminal
of the Bosch alternator regulator
or the IND terminal of the Lucas
alternator regulator.
Connect a jumper lead from the
D+ or IND terminal in the cable to
earth. The indicator light should
come on.
If the light comes on the regulator
is at fault. If the light does not come
on the fault is in the wiring or globe .
To check the globe and wiring
the instrument cluster surround must
be removed to gain access to the
globe .
SPEEDOMETER TESTS

LIGHT TEST
To test the odometer accuracy,

drive the car over a measured mile.
Speedometer accuracy
can
be
checked by comparing the speedometer in question against one known
to be accurate, while two cars are
moving at the same speed, or by
timing the car on a measured mile.
To test the indicator light, turn on

the ignition switch. Do not sta~t the
engine. The light should come on.
Start the engine. The light should go
Page 15 24 shows the correct combination of gears to use for various

rear axle and tyre size combinations.
15-6
GROUP 15 LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS

HORN ADJUSTMENT
Horn current can be adjusted by
changing the contact tension. Con-
nect the l).orn as shown in Fig. 2.

Turn the self-locking adjusting pan
FIG. 4- Fairlane Printed Circuit.
FIG. 3 - Falcon Printed Circuit.
EJ
headed screw until the current is

within the limits for the horn being
adjusted.
ADJUSTM~NT
SCR~W
TWO-SPEED WIPER MOTOR

1. Clean the gear housing of all
old grease. Do not allow any cleanIng ftuld to contact the armature
shaft and output shaft bearings.
gears for scored surfaces. Replace

defective parts and add new grease
to the housing and gears.
l. Wipe all other parts with a

clean cloth.
3. Inspect the gear housing for

cracks or distortion. Replace a
cracked or distorted housing.
HIGI-l OR LOW TON~ ID~NTIFICATION
4. Check all shafts, bushings, and
FIG. 5- Horn Adjustment.
15-7
PART
15-2
LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS
Sec:tion
Paae
Headlights .............................. 15-9
Horns .................................. 15-9
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ........... 15-9
Headlight Alignment ..................... 15-9
Headlight Adjustment ................. . ... 15-9
Back-Up Light Adjustment. ................ 15-9
3 Removal and Installation .................. 15-10
Headlights .............................. 15-10
Gear Selector
Quadrant Light............ 15-11
Refer to Group 22 for locations

of wiring harnesses and schematics.
HEADLIGHTS
The Falcon Models use two
No. 2 type sealed-beam headlights.
Each light has low-beam and highbeam filaments.
A conventional beam selector

switch is located on the floorboard
at the left of the driver.
Quick disconnect terminals are
also provided on the left and right
of the radiator support assembly.
EJ
Sec:tion
Paae
Parking Light ........................... 15-10
Tail, Stop, and Back-Up Light Bulbs .... , ... 15-11
License Plate Light ....................... 15-11
Dome Light ............................. 15-11
Instrument Lights ........................ 15-11
Horns .................................. 15-11
Horn Switch............................. 15-11
The terminals are colour coded.

Like colour terminals are connectEd. together.
HORNS
Standard and De-Luxe models are
fitted with one low tone horn. On
Fairmont, Futura and G.T. models

a pair of tuned horns is used, one a
high pitched tone, the other, which
is similar to the single horn installation, has a low pitched tone. A horn
button closes the circuit to the horn(s).
High and low tone horns can be
identified by the letter "H" or "L"
respectively cast into the throat of

the horn (Fig. 3, Part 15-1).
NOTE: Horns are located forward
of the left front suspension tower.
SEAT BElT WARNING LAMP.
The standard vehicle has a seat
belt warning lamp fitted which
illuminates only whilst the ignition
switch is held in the start position.
On vehicles fitted with seat belt
retractor a relay is used which
illuminates the lamp for 12-1 ~
seconds after switching on the
ignition.
HEADLIGHT ALIGNMENT
All headlight adjustments should
be made with a half-full fuel tank
plus or minus one gallon, with a
person seated in the driver's seat,
and a person in the passenger seat,
the car unloaded and the trunk
empty except for the spare tyre and jacking equipment, and recommended pressure in all tyres. Before each adjustment, bounce the
car by pushing on the centre of
both the front and rear bumpers, to
level the car.
To align the headlights by means
of a wall screen, select a level por-
tion of the shop floor. Lay out the

floor and wall as shown in Fig. 6.
HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Adjust each upper headlight beam
as shown in Fig. 6. Some states
may not approve of the D + 2 inch dimension for the headlights.
Check the applicable state law.
Each headlight can be adjusted
by means of two screws located
between the light and radiator grill
Fig. 5 & 6.
CAUTION
Always adjust aiming screw
counter clockwise then clockwise
until high intensity of light is
properly aimed. This will bring the

beam into final position with the
unit held under proper tension when
operation is completed.
Note: Do not check aim on the
low beam.
BACK UP LIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Place the shift lever in the reverse

position. Loosen the switch retaining clamp and position the switch
so that the operating plunger is depressed n ~. Ensure that the switch
body is not contacting the shift arm
and is parallel to the arm. Tighten
the clamp.
15-8
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
_.,
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52
LL.
PART 15-2- LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS
15-9
FIG. 7- Headlight and Parklight

Installation - Falcon Typical.
II
- ----
I~
(j
P. H
LH
(})13015 PIING HE.IIDIAMf> Rf:TAINING
.2
2.
13088 CLIP HAOIAMP SPRING AA&oA
1.300 7 BUL B A 55Y
IJII B R INGA..S 5Y HCADIAMP HGH &AM
NAOLAMP (H13 )
@ 1311.9 RING A~ Y UO,D/.ANP H IGH BU,M -
IJO ' !l HOUSING A SSY

<?) t.JIOI
HOU.StNC A.S .S Y
1-/l:ADLAMP
HEADLAMP
IJOJZ .SCRCW HCADLAMPADJUSTING 4
IJOJI ) PR!Nef.c"!J;~~p
@ 13021
@
PAD
NI/ T HA[)I. A I'fP IILl.JUSTI Nt;
13046 A lNG
A .~SY
.,
H At;U.AMPJJJW MAM I
,.......,..------------------' @ 1.304 1 AINC. ASS Y ,;AOLIWIP !OW SCAM J

J
@ 1.3007 B UL B ASS Y H11DLAMP (t .IJ.) ,/
FIG. 8- Headlight and Parklight

Installation - Fairlane Typical.
of
15-10
EJ
HEADLIGHTS
REMOVAL
To replace the sealed beam unit,
remove the radiator grill and remove
the three sealed beam retaining rim
screws. Lift the sealed beam unit
free of its cradle.
Remove the push-on 3-pin connector by holding the headlight
assembly and applying a firm pulling
action to the connector. Remove

sealed beam unit from vehicle.
REPLACEMENT
Align the three-pin connector with
the contacts in the sealed beam unit
and push on. Fit the sealed beam
unit to cradle ensuring the three
locating lugs engage in cradle locating slots. Fit the retaining rim and
fit three screws.
Refit grill and aim headlights.
Whenever a sealed beam umt IS

replaced or any other alterations are
made to a headlight assembly the
headlights should always be checked
for alignment and adjusted as
described on page 157.
PARKING LIGHT
The parking light of FairlaneFalcon vehicles is shown in Fig. 9

To replace the bulb remove the le~s
retaining screws and the lens.
(i)
IJ2o6/1 800Y AMY- PARK UMP
8UL8~Y .32C'P
13211
~r PARK U.NP UNU
13A32f,/7 L[Nj TURN .:,K,NAL <'TIC
~/JA2.36 :;,JIILD L.WP SID
l.lZ08J9 LN,5 PoRI<lNG LANP
(]) 139 -NC 2 8UL8 ASSY
2
1/1
2
S600.:1 :!>CREW
ll PAN NAO
&.SO.XU. .:JCRCW ,. 8 .l21WV HCAD /}

C-'62u /llur ... e u TYP
e
FIG. 9- Installation Drg. Park Lamps.
01JAS.J7 6ClCL AJH RCI'IIt LAW

<DI.l450
0tJ4CI
LN.S
IJ4l0
1$/H
Q)1.1 .. s
@)
GA.\I'CT AC.AIItiJI&N.UNI
ICCAitl.ANP
.I
.l
Pv40 .ctf;AA LAMP Altt/UflniNG .l
8t.t..e A.S.H'
ut
IJ<f. .. AO
~ .1.-..71
.l
ltCARLA/IIIP
@I.J4.J4 .COY A3SY'
FIG. 10- Falcon- rear lamp installations.
1/1
2
2
1{1
1/.J Itx!J
A.U1'
.J.l4C.~
.U. CP
.S.HICLD MAA J.A,..-
w.-r ,. . u~WJt.
NUT -"'A.JY,OC .UA.t._
'IU7-S
lr&<b IOU
@t~M711*'>
.SriC) ,.....
fl.
qcQD
15-11
PART 15-2- LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS

TAIL, STOP, AND BACK-UP
LIGHT BULBS
To replace the tail, stop, and/ or

the back-up lights, remove the retaining screws and remove the lens. See
Figs. 10-11-12.
LICENCE PLATE LIGHT
Bulb replacement is straightforward as there is no lens covering
the licence plate bulb.
DOME LIGHT
Remove the self fixing dome light

lens and replace the bulb.
INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
Instrument cluster illumination

lamp bulb replacement necessitates
removal of the instrument cluster
as described in Part 15-4.
Once the cluster has been removed
simply remove the bulb holder from
the cluster replace the bulb and
reinsert the assembly in the cluster.
GEAR SELECTOR QUADRANT
LIGHT COLUMN SHIFT.
1. Remove the horn switch.
2. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and using a suitable puller
withdraw the wheel.
3. Remove the globe.
wheel and disconnect the horn wires

at the steering wheel hub.
3. Remove the steering wheel
pad/horn switch assembly.
Reverse this procedure for
assembly.
GEAR SELECTOR QUADRANT

LIGHT FLOOR SHIFT.
HORN SWITCH G.T. & G.S.
1. Remove the console and dial

assy.
2. Remove the globe.
1. Remove the steering wheel pad

by removing the retaining screws
from the under side of the steering
wheel spokes.
2. Disconnect the rim blow horn
switch connections at the steering
wheel hub.
3. Strip the horn switch from the
steering wheel rim.
HORNS
Disconnect the horn wire from the

terminal. Remove the horn mounting
bracket to horn retaining screws and
remove the horn.
To install, mount the horn in
position, then connect the horn wire
to the horn terminal.
TO REASSEMBLE
1. Feed the horn switch into the

steering wheel rim groove using a
small steel spatula (approx. same
size as 6" rule).
2. Connect the horn leads at the
steering wheel hub.
3. Reinstall the steering wheel pad.
HORN SWITCH
1. Remove the two steering wheel

centre pad/horn switch retaining
screws from the underside of the
steering wheel spokes.
2. Lift the pad/horn switch
assembly away from the steering
@.U.OU?U..-Al.M~-
@.lue/t
u..- .._.
(J) J~~ .... ~""""-
@ tJ ._
G..._.,. . ..... .-w:..
(j) ........, ... _.ow~..-
ll> ..... - -- - -
C!> l -... ........... ~
'
'
Ju ._..,, ...uc.
Ci>"
- __.....__. ,.. __
(I#IU
.ICA&W -
6 .U
.....
"'~~~..- ----~.....:........
FIG. 11 - Fairlane- rear lamp installations.

0
0
0
I.J<HCJ/1
GASifET
REAA
TUIW ~
A-liD RCAit t ANJP /IIIDUNTIIIG I
/J ""-34/~
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@ I.J4sc; UNS
IJ.6..5
151$1~
RAA TlJAI
aut&
~UY
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0..$.S O . .J4.UII:
@."i1646 - SJ '
FIG. 12- UteVan- rear lamp installations.
~"
t::ASK T olli:Aolll LANIPl..CHJ
IJ 4.1.0
0.J.J:Z.6/fi.Ut3A1414 LAN'IP
0
0
I.ZNS
/.J41io/l
.SC.Itt::.W
.SCNW
15-12
PART
153
SWITCHES, CIRCUIT BREAKERS, AND

FUSES
Section
Page
Section
Page
Description and Operation .. . . .. .. . ... . . . .

Headlight Switch ........ . ... .. ........ .
Fuse Panel ..... .. . . . . ........ .. ....... .
Mechanical Stop Light Switch ..... . . . ..... .
Reversing Light Switch .. . ............... .
2 Removal and Installation . .. . ... . ....... .
Headlight Switch . ......... . ... . ....... .
Headlight Beam Selector Switch ....... . ... .
15-12
15-12
15-12
15-12
15-12
15-13
15-13
15-13
Stop Light Switch

Dome Light Switch
Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder ....... . ... .
Windshield Wiper Switch ................ . . .
15-13
15-13
15-13
15-13
Neutral Start Switch ...................... .
15-13
Back-Up Light Switch . .. . . ..... . ......... .
15-13
The reversing light switch is incorporated in the inhibitor switch on

automatic transmission vehicles.
In column shift manual transmission vehicles the plunger type switch
is located on a bracket at the steering
column lower bearing where it is
actuated by the first and reverse shift
lever.
On floor shift manual transmission
vehicles the plunger type switch is
mounted on a bracket on the front
of the shift mechanism where it is
actuated by the reverse shift lever as
it reaches the reverse position.
Refer to Group 22 for locations of

wiring harnesses and schematics.
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
A separate headlight switch and

circuit breaker is used. The headlight
circuit is protected by a 22 ampere
circuit breaker. The tail, parking,
licence plate light and horn circuits
are protected by 8 amp fuses.
FUSE PANEL
The fuse panel is mounted on the

right of the dash panel under the
right-hand air vent. Fig.I3 shows the
fuses, their valves and locations.
MECHANICAL STOP LIGHT
SWITCH
REYIISING LIGHT SWITCH
FIG. 13- Fuse Panel Location- Typical.
The mechanical stoplight switch is

located on the brake pedal support
bracket and is operated by a lever
extending from the brake pedal arm.
With the brake pedal in the r~
leased position and a test lamp connected to the switch terminals adjust
the switch as follows1. Release the locknuts retaining
the switch body.
2. Move the switch body forward
until the test lamp goes out.
3. Move the switch body a further
0. 050" forward.
4. Tighten the locknuts.
FIG. 14- Mechanical Stoplight Switch Installation
SWITCHES, CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND FUSES
EJ
15-13
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
cable.
2. Prise the switch forward from
the instrument cluster.
3. Disconnect wiring and remove
the switch.
4. Connect wiring to the switch
connections.
5. Press the switch assembly into
the aperture.
HEADLIGHT BEAM
SELECTOR SWITCH
Lay the ftoor mat back from the
area of the switch, and remove the
mounting screws (Fig. 15). Disconnect the wire terminal block from the
switch.
To install the switch, connect the
terminal block to the switch and in
stall the switch to the floor. Replace
the ftoor mat.
STOP LIGHT SWITCH

1. Disconnect the wires at the
connector.
2. Release the locknut (pedal side)
and withdraw the switch.
3. Reverse the above procedure to
replace the switch.
4. Adjust the switch as in section 1.
DOME LIGHT SWITCH

The dome light switch is incorporated in the panel lamp switch. It
is actuated by rotating the switch
control wheel to the right when once
the panel lamps have reached full
brilliance . The further rotation of the
wheel switches the dome lamp on.
The dome lamp also acts as a
courtesy lamp actuated by switches
tn the door pillars.
IGNinON SWITCH AND

LOCK CYUNDER
1. Disconnect the negative cable
from the battery.
FIG. 15 - Headlight Beam

Selector Switch
2. Remove the column from the
vehicle.
3. Remove the steering lock
shroud and shift tube. Page 3 - 38
4. Cut slots in the steering lock
attaching bolts with a hacksaw and
remove the bolts with a screw driver
or hammer and centre punch.
5. Rotate the lock around the
column tube until one end of the
base clears the aperture, lift the lock
from the column.
6. Place the steering/ignition lock
assembly into the steering column
7. Engage new recessed bush in the
shear head bolts and tighten them
evenly until the heads shear off.
Install shift tube.
8. Assemble the shroud to the
column.
9. Assemble the column to the
vehicle.
LOCK BARREL REPLACEMENT.
1. Remove the steering/ignition

lock shroud lower attaching screw
from beneath the shroud.
2. Turn the ignition key to the
off or on position.
3. Push a 0.062 dia. pin into the
lock thiough the shroud lower
mounting hole to raise the barrel
locking pin and remove the barrel
Fig. 16.
FIG. 16- Typical Ignition Switch

Removed.
4. Align the barrel tongue and
aperture and assemble the barrel
to the lock and raise the barrel
locking pin by turning the key to the
start position.
5. Assemble the lock shroud lower
attaching screw.
WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH

1. Disconnect the battery cable.
2. Prise the switch from the
instrument cluster.
3. Disconnect wiring and remove
the switch.
4. Connect wiring to the switch
connections.
5. Press the switch assembly into
the aperture .

See group 7 for replacement of
the neutral start switch on cars
equipped with automatic transmissions.
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH

1. Remove the two wires from
the switch.
2. Loosen the retaining clamp or
locknuts.
3. Remove the switch.
15-14
PART
15-4
INSTRUMENTS
Sec:tion
1. Description and Operation
. .. ...........
Gauges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Constant Voltage Regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Gauge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Temperature Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Charge Indicator Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Pressure Indicator Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turn Indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake Warning Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2. In-Car Adjustments and Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . .
Windshield Wiper Blade Adjustment . . . . . . .
3. Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Instrument Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel, Temperature Gauges
. . . ...........
Printed Instrument Circuit
. . . ...........
Fuel Sending Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pare
15-14
15-14
15-14
15-14
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-15
15-16
15-16
15-17
Section
Temperature Sending Unit .............. .

Oil Pressure Switch ..................... .
Turn Indicator Switch ................... .
Turn Indicator Flasher ................... .
Speedometc!r and Tachometer ............ .
Speedometer Cable ..................... .
Windshield Wiper Motor ................. .
Wiper Pivot Shaft and Link .............. .
4. Major Repair Operations ..................
Disassembly-Permanent Magnet Type TwoSpeed Electric Wiper Motor .............
Inspecting and Testing Disassembled Motor ....
Testing and Assembled Motor .............
Pare
15-17
15-17
15-17
15-17
15-16
15-16
15-17
15-17
15-18
15-19
15-19
15-20
NOTE: If the instruments require servicing while the assembly is removed from the instrument panel,
the cluster case must be earthed to the vehicle body. Failure to observe this precaution will cause immediate
damage to the fuel and temperature gauges as soon as any power is applied to the electrical circuits.
All of the instruments are electrically operated except the speedometer. Brightness of the instrument panel lights is controlled by a rheostat
adjacent to the lighting switch.
GAUGES
The instrument cluster includes

a fuel gauge, temperature gauge,
charge indicator light, oil pressure
indicator light, speedometer, high
beam indicator light, a left- and
right-hand turn signal indicator light,
brake warning light, and stop lamp
and brake warning light.
CONSTANT VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
The constant voltage regulator

(Fig. 17) used with the fuel, temperature, and oil gauges maintains an
average value of S.O volts at the
gauge terminals.
The regulator operates by means
of a bimetallic arm and a heating
coil. When the ignition switch is
turned on, the heating coil (Fig. 17).
heats the bimetallic arm causing it

to bend and break the contacts, disconnecting the voltage supply from
the heating coil. The bimetallic arm
then cools and brings the contacts
together again. The making and
breaking of the contacts, causes a
pulsating voltage, with an effective
average value of S.O volts to be supplied to the gauges. Although these
pulsations are quite rapid, there is
in each gauge a bimetallic arm which
changes temperature quite slowly,
and this assures steady average readings.
As the pulsating voltage would
normally cause radio interference, a
radio interference suppression choke
is connected in series with the constant voltage regulator supply wire.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
UNIT
FIG. 17- Gauge Voltage Regulator

and Temperature Gauge - Typical.
FUEL GAUGE
The fuel gauge consists of a sending unit, located on the fuel tank, and
a remote register unit (fuel gauge)
mounted in the instrument cluster.
The remote register unit pointer is
controlled by a bimetallic arm and
heating coil. The sending unit is a
rheostat that varies its resistance depending on the amount of fuel in the
tank. The rheostat is operated by a
float control. As the fuel level rises or
falls the float control arm moved by
the float, varies the resistance.
15-15
PART 15-4- INSTRUMENTS

COIL
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT
turned on, and it should go out when

the engine comes up to speed. The
light is connected between the oil
pressure switch unit mounted on the
engine at the left rear on the six,
above the oil filter on the V-8 (Fig.
18) and the coil terminal of the
ignition switch. The G.T. has an oil
gauge adjacent to the tachometer.
TURN INDICATOR
The turn indicator uses a single

filament globe in the upper section of
the front park/ indicator combination
lamp and the centre section of the
rear light assembly.
The turn indicator flasher is located in the back of the instrument
panel, on the steering column brace.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
FIG. 19- Oil Pressure Switch and

Temperature Sending Unit 6 Cyl.
FIG. 18 -Temperature Sender and

Oil Pressure Switch - V8 Typical.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
The temperature gauge consists of

a $ending unit mounted in the cylinder head at the top front on the
V-8 (Fig. 18 or 19), left rear on the
six, and a remote register unit, (temperatl~e gauge) mounted in the instrument cluster.
Changes of engine temperature
vary the resistance of the sending
unit which in tum operates the temperature gauge.
CHARGE INDICATOR
LIGHT
A red alternator charge indicator
EJ

LIGHT
An amber indicator light illuminates when the oil pressure is below a

safe value. The light should come on
when the ignition switch is first
The speedometer is connected to

the output shaft of the transmission
by means of a flexible shaft, and a
drive gear located inside the transmission. The flexible shaft drives the
speedometer which registers speed in
miles per hour and also drives an
odometer which records distance
traveled in miles and tenths of a
mile.
BRAKE WARNING LAMP
A red indicator lamp illuminates

when either the front or rear brake
systems become inoperative. The
warning light switch is located in the
master cylinder body.
"Prove out" of the light circuit is
conducted by turning the ignition
switch to the start position when the
lamp should illuminate.
WINDSHIELD WIPER
BLADE ADJUSTMENT
Turn the ignition switch to the
EJ
light is used. This light illuminates if

the battery is discharging and the alternator is not supplymg current.
When the ignition switch is closed,
battery current flows through the
charge indicator light and through
the regulator voltage limiter to the
field .
When the alternator output voltage
opposing battery voltage is high
enough the charge indicator light
goes out.
SPEEDOMETER
accessory position. Turn the wiper

switch on and off to allow the wiper
motor to adopt the park position.
Install the wiper blades so that they

lie flat within 1i-2! ins. from lower
edge of windsqeen (measured at
centre of blades).
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
1. Remove the three screws, (five

screws Fairlane) retaining the cluster
housing.
2. Remove the housing toward
3. Disconnect warning lamps (and
/or Gauges G.T.).

4. Remove the housing from behind the steering column by moving
it toward the centre of the vehicle
(select 1st or 1 gears on column
shift vehicles).
5. Remove the four cluster retain-
ing screws (one in each corner of the

cluster body), and partially remove
the cluster.
6. Disconnect speedo cable and
printed circuit plug.
7. Complete removal of the cluster
by rolling the top back toward the
column.
15-16
GROUP 15-
LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS

3. Remove the housing from behind the steering column and remove
the gauge retaining screws.
4. Remove the gauges from the
housing.
FUEL & TEMPERATURE GAUGES
FAIR LANE.
l. Remove the instrument cluster

as previously outlined.
2. Remove the four screws attaching the lens and cover to the canister.
3. Remove the terminal speed nuts
from the gauges and remove the
gauges from the canister.
FIG. 20- Speedo Cable to Speedo Connection.
SPEEDO CABLE DISCONNECT
FROM SPEEDO HEAD
1. Remove the crash pad and

cover (from right hand side).
2. Using a long screw driver or
solid rod depress the release tab and
pull the cable away from the speedo
head. (Fig. 20).
from the temperature gauge mask and

remove it from beneath the needle.
4. Remove the terminal speed nuts
retaining the gauges to the rear half
of the canister and remove the
gauges.
NOTE: The fuel gauge mask must be
removed before the temp gauge or
mask can be removed.
I . Remove the instrument cluster

as previously outlined.
2. Remove the two upper screws
retaining the lenses and the two
screws holding the two halves of the
cluster together.
3. From the front of the gauges,
remove the two screws retaining the
fuel gauge mask, unclip the mask

G.T.&G.S.
1. Remove the instrument cluster

housing (3) retaining screws and lay
the housing toward the steering
column.
2. Remove the gauge wiring and
disconnect the warning lamp holders
from the housing.
SPEEDOMETER & TACHOMETER.

and separate it as previously outlined
under fuel and temperature gauge
removal.
2. Remove two retaining screws
from the backs of the speedometer/
tachometer.
NOTE: On Fairlane remove fuel and
temperature gauges prior to attempting to remove the speedometer.
3. Remove the speedometer I
tachometer from the cluster.
PRINTED CIRCUIT.
Replacement of the printed circuit

can only be achieved once the gauges
-speedometer/tachometer have been
removed. Fig. 3 & 4.
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WIN IN DIRCCTI(.W Lit ""~'JW

S/llfJWfN6 J..R.T,.,IC.III.. CONNt.Cflt..-~W ~ 'iCtkJIMD
1"'.-H .W.SfJUI..AIIIJ/N (AtJI.Jin()lllltt ICJ ;TA-N/)NO(I~HK.)
ALL FALCON MODCL5 UCEPT 54H

~I T WAIININ* I.. AMI' .J0CKr A.S.SY.J. A r
IVVItii66111J LDCATIONS INACCOifiJANCI
lii'Jt /ltiMIN4 1/JIHr/"CArN:IN J(NIDVl.6.
611.01111 :
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61..VC/WNI T 4 61fiiN
&AC'If/,-ILI.OW~ #HEN
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FIG. 21 - Installation Drg. Cluster Housing.
Wllnl # GIIIIIV
YILLOW/61..ACK 4 ILACK-{AIMOtfl rAN WHIN
lf.IIO. JIA 1" . , , r WAifNINe .S~I,/ID DNL Y)
~IIN/.LACK 4 .LACK

CLOCK.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

housing.
2. Remove the instrument panel
pad, right hand end cover.
3. Remove the two clock attaching
screws.
4. Disconnect the clock leads.
5. Remove the clock through the
end opening in the instrument panel.
To replace the unit disconnect the

wire from the terminal. Remove the
unit from the engine. Apply conductive sealer to the threads and
install the wire to the terminal and
check the operation of the unit.
WARN lNG LAMPS.

housing.
2. Remove bulb holders from the
housing.
NOTE: On Fairlane vehicles remove
the heater control panel to gain
access to the brake warning lamp.
FUEL SENDING UNIT
1. Remove the fuel from the fuel

tank.
2. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire from the sending unit.
3. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the tank line at the sending
unit.
4. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the sending unit
so that it will not enter the tank.
S. Turn the sending unit retaining
ring counterclockwise and remove
the unit, retaining ring, and mounting gasket.
6. Clean the fuel gauge sending
unit mounting surface at the fuel
tank.
7. Position the sending unit and
mounting gasket on the fuel tank and
secure with the retaining ring.
8. Connect the sending unit wire
and the fuel tank line.
9. Fill the tank with the fuel removed.
10. Check the fuel gauge operation and check for leaks.
RMPERATURE SENDING UNIT
t. Disconnect the temperature

sending unit wire from the sending
unit
2. Prepare the new temperature
sending unit for installation by applying a small amount of conductive
water-resistant sealer to the threads.
3. Remove the temperature sending unit from the cylinder head and
immediately install the new temperature sending unit.
4. Connect the wire to the temperature sending unit.
S. Start the engine and check the
sending unit operation.
TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect
the
negative
(ground) cable from the battery.
l. Remove the steering wheel hub
and steering wheel retaining nut.
3. Remove the steering wheel
from the shaft.
4. Disconnect the two wire-connector blocks at the dash panel above
S. Remove the wires and terminals
from the connector blocks. This can
be done by depressing the tab on the
wire terminal with an awl, or by in~rting a ball point pen (refill plastac type) over the bullet pin and pull
the wire and terminal from the connector block. Record the color code
and location of each wire before removing It from the connector block.
Tape the wires together and attach
a piece of heavy cord to the wires to
help pull the wires through the steering column during installation.
handle from the side of the steering
column.
7. Remove 3 bearing retainer attaching screws and remove the bearing retainer and tum indicator switch
and wires from the steering column.
Disconnect the heavy cord from the
switch wires.
INSTALLATION
1. Tape the ends of the switch
wires together and attach the cord
to the wires.
l. Pull the wires down through
the steering column with the cord,
and position the switch to the steering column hub.
3. Install the bearing retainer and
attaching screws.
4. Install the turn indicator switch
lever.
S. Press the switch wires into the
connector blocks in their correct locat.ion recorded during removal. Plug
the connector blocks together with
the mating connector blocks at the
dash panel.
6. Install the steering wheel on the
shaft.
7. Install the steering wheel retaining nut and hub.
8. Connect the battery ground
15-17
cable and check the operation of the
turn signal switch and horns.
TURN INDICATOR RASHER
Disconnect the wires from the

flasher unit terminal, turn flasher
and remove. Observe the colour code
and number on the cover of the
flasher. Be certain to replace it
'with a new flasher with the same
colour code and number on the
cover.
WIPER PIVOT SHAFT AND LINK
1. Remove the windshield wiper

blade and arm assembly.
2. Remove the-pivot shaft retaining nut, bezel and gasket.
3. Disconnect the wiper link from
the motor and remove the link and
pivot shaft assembly.
4. Position the link and pivot shaft
assembly on the cowl and wiper
motor. Connect the link to the motor.
5. Install the pivot shaft to the
cowl and install the gasket, bezel,
and retaining nut.
6. Install the wiper blade and arm
assembly.
7. Check the pivot shaft and link
operation.
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR
AND WASHER ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the harness from

the Wiper Motor.
2. Remove the three hoses connected to the Washer Pump.
3. Remove the three bolts retaining the Wiper Motor and mounting
seal assembly to the dash panel.
Lower the assembly and disconnect
the wiper ~inks at the motor. Remove
the Motor and Washer Assemblv.
INSTALLA liON
1. Position the Motor and Washer

Assembly and assemble the connecting wiper links to the motor.
2. Position the Motor and Washer
assembly to the dash panel and
install three retaining bolts.
3. Connect the harness connector
to the Wiper Motor.
4. Connect large hose to inlet and
two small hoses to outlet connections on washer pump.
5. Connect the battery and check
the operation of the Wiper Motor
and the 'park position' of the Wiper
Blades.
WIPER PIVOT SHAFT AND LINK
REMOVAL
1. Remove the windshield wiper
15-18
blade and arm assembly.

2. Remove the nine cowl panel
attaching screws and remove the
cowl panel.
3. ReQ1ove six bolts retaining
pivots.
4. Disconnect the wiper link from
the Motor and remove the link and
pivot shaft assembly.
'
MOUNTING
CLIP
INSTALLATION
1. Position the link and pivot shaft

assembly on the cowl and wiper
motor. Connect the link to the motor.
2. Install the pivot shaft to the
cowl and install six bolts to retain
pivots.
3. Install the cowl panel.
4. Install the Wiper Blade and
Plrm J\ssembly.
5. Check the Pivot Shaft and Link
operation.
IJ
SPEEDO>IETER
DRIVEN GEAR
K 1629 A
FIG. 22- Speedo Driven Gear.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS (Preslite)
FIG. 23- Wiper Motor Assy.
ITEM
1
3
5
7
9
11
13
15
17
19
21
23
DESCRIPTION
Clamp Nut
Seal
Terminal Block J\ssembly
Distance Washer
Thrust Cone
Terminal
Brush
Screw
Plrmature J\ssembly
Thrust Pad J\ssembly
Wave Washer
Screw
ITEM
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
DESCRIPTION
Motor Crank J\ssembly
Grommet Insert
Gear Housing J\ssembiy
Gear & S J\ssembly
Washer Pump J\ssembly
Screw
Brush Spring
Spring Washer
Ball
Motor Housing J\ssembly
Earth Finger
15-19
PART 15-4 INSTRUMENTS

DISASSEMBLY PERMANENT
MAGNET TYPE TWO SPEED
ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR
1. Remove the clamp nut (1),
Motor Crank, Assembly (2), Wave
Washer (21), Flat Washer (7), Grommet Insert (4) and Mounting Seal (3).
2. Clean the gear housing of old
grease. Do not allow cleaning fluid
to contact the armature shaft and
output shaft bearings. Wipe all
other parts with a clean cloth.
3. Remove the two screws (15),
lockwashers (16) and motor housing
assembly (20). Do not pound the
Motor housing assembly as the
ceramic magnets may be damaged.
Remove the ball (18) and thrust pad
assembly (19).
4. Note: That the ball may have
dislodged and become attracted to
the magnets during the dismantling
operation, and it is essential that this
item is located.
5. Retract the brushes (13) and
withdraw the armature assembly (17)
and thrust cone (9).
6. Remove the four screws (12),
Terminal (11) and Washer Pump

Assembly (10).
7. Disconnect the feed wire (miniature terminal) from the wiper motor.
8. Remove the gear and shaft
assembly (8) and distance washer (7).
9. Insert screwdriver in slot at
base of terminal block assembly (5).
Prise upwards to free terminal block
assembly, unsolder wires and remove
from housing (6).
10. Remove self-tapping screw (23)
and earth finger (22).
INSPECTING AND TESTING THE

DISASSEMBLED MOTOR
1. Cover motor housing bearings
and blow dust from interior with
compressed air.
2. Visually inspect for damage to
the ceramic magnets-replace motor
housing assembly if necessary.
3. Visually inspect the armature
assembly for burned commutator
bars, galling or pitting of the armature shaft bearing area and worm
gear for scoring. Check thrust ball for
pitting, balling or discolouration due
to heat. Replace if necessary.

4. Test for grounded armature.
Obtain a test lamp and battery, connect one probe to the armature shaft
or armature stack, and touch each
commutator segment in turn with the
other probe. The lamp should NOT
light. If the lamp lights the armature
is grounded and must be replaced.
5. Inspect the brush holder plate
for cracks or damage. Ensure that
brush boxes are secure and that connections are not burned or corroded.
6. Replace motor brushes that are
worn down to f long. Examine brush
springs for distortion, burning or
collapse. Normal brush spring length is 1!" minimum. Replace if
necessary.
7. Examine the gear housing for
cracks and distortion, and the bearings for excessive wear. Examine the
three parking fingers for loss of
tension, burning or pitting. Replace
gear housing assembly if necessary.
8. Examine the gear and shaft
assembly for worn or damaged teeth.
Check cam for wear on face. Replace
6
4
~\2
'0
FIG. 24
ITEM
1
3
5
7
9
11
13
DESCRIPTION
Housing Assembly
Suction Cap
Trim Cup
Valve Cover
Valve Seal
Screw
Bush
ITEM
2
4
8
10
12
14
DESCRIPTION
Solenoid Assembly
Plunger
Cover
Valve Seat
Valve Rubber
Plunger & Lever Assembly
Spring
15-20
if necessary.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply grease to the centredrilled holes in each end of the armature shaft. Assemble the Thrust Cone
(9) to the worm end of the shaft and
the -&" diameter ball (18) to the
other end of the shaft.
2. Assemble brush springs (14)
and brushes (13) to the gear housing
assembly.
3. Retract the brushes and assemble the armature assembly (17) to the
gear housing assembly.
4. Apply stiff grease to the back
face of the thrust pad assembly (19)
and locate in the recess in the bottom
of the motor housing assembly (20).
5. Assemble the motor housing
assembly (20) to the gear housing
assembly (6). Ensure that the wiring
to the brushes does-not foul the motor
housing. Assemble the two screws
(15) and lockwashers (16).
6. Adjust armature shaft thrust
screw in until resistance is felt and
then back off screw a quarter turn.
7. To secure earth finger (22) to
gear housing (6), install screw (23).
8. Install terminal plate assembly
(5) to gear housing. Ensure that
flanges on terminal plate assembly
are located in receiving slot in
housing (6).
9. Apply No. 2 cup grease to parking plate and cam track (8).
10. Assemble the distance washer
(7) on the gear shaft assembly (8) and
assemble gear and shaft assembly to
the gear housing.
11. Install mounting seal (3) to
gear housing and assemble grommet
insert (4).
12. Connect washer lead connector
to wiper motor terminal, assemble
washer pump assembly (10), terminal
(11) and four self-tapping screws (12).
Re-locate self-tapping screws carefully in existing threads to avoid
stripping and tighten screws to a
torque loading of 20-25 lbs. ins.
DISASSEMBLY WASHER PUMP
1. Remove the four screws (11)
attaching valve cover, remove valve
cover (7), valve seal (9), valve seat (8),
suction cap (3), trim cup (5) and
plunger (4).
2. Remove solenoid assembly (2),
with cover from housing assembly ( 1),
dismantle plunger and lever assembly
(12) and solenoid cover (6).
3. Remove bush (13) and spring
(14).
INSPECTING AND TESTING

DISASSEMBLED WASHER PUMP
1. Check operation of non-returned valves in valve assembly.
2. Check suction cap for damage
or cracks or deterioration.
3. Examine trim cap, solenoid
lever and plunger for damage or wear.
4. Check solenoid windings for
continuity or short circuit.
5. Examine housing bush for damage and excessive wear.
6. Check compression spring for
damage.
7. Examine washer housmg and
latch for cracks and distortion, examine timing gear for worn or
damaged teeth.
Note: Timing gear should rotate
only when latch is retracted.
ASSEMBLY OF WASHER PUMP
1. Apply No. 2 cup grease to latch
mechanism (1).
2. Install spring (14) and guide
bush (13) to housing.
3. Install plunger and lever assembly (12) to solenoid assembly (2).
4. Install solenoid to housing taking care that lever engages with slot
in latch. Ensure that solenoid is
located in receiving slot in housing
and solenoid wire is correctly positioned in housing assembly.
5. Install trim cup (5) and plunger
(4) to suction cap (3).
6. Install solenoid cover (6) to
snap fit over location pin.
7. Install suction cap assembly and
ensure that plunger is located in
guide bush.
8. Install valve seat assembly (8,
10) and valve seal (4).
9. Install valve cover (7) and secure
with four screws (11) tighten to a
torque loading of 10-15lbs. ins.
TESTING THE ASSEMBLED

MOTOR
1. Obtain a switch assembly

ARC9DF.17A553-A, a 12 volt automotive battery and an 0 to 10 amperes
Ammeter.
2. Connect the Negative terminal
of the battery to the motor earthing
terminal (11) and the 'E' terminal of
the switch ass~mbly.
3. The terminal block assembly
has four terminal blades and the
moulding has four identification
numbers 1 to 4 respectively. The
switch assembly moulding also carries identification numbers.
4.
(i) Connect motor terminal

No. 1 to switch terminal
No.1.
(ii) Connect motor terminal
No.2.
(iii) Connect motor terminal
No. 3 to POSITIVE battery terminal.
(iv) Connect motor terminal
No.4.
(v) Connect washer pump terminal to switch terminal
'W'..
5. Operate switch assembly and
check for LOW speed and HIGH
speed operation. Switch to park
position two or three times and check
that the motor crank assembly stops
with a positive action in the same
pcsition.
6. Switch motor to low speed and
back-off the adjusting screw in the
gear housing at the end of the armature shaft. Adjust end play of the
armature by tightening the screw
until an ammeter in series shows a
slight rise in current. Back-off slightly
until the current is just normal,
apply 'LOCTITE-GRADE CV' to
the screw to prevent unlocking.
7. Check the current consumption
after running the motor for 30 minutes. The consumption should be
2 . 5 amperes maximum at 13. 5 volt
and the output speed 40 rpm LOW
and 65 rpm HIGH.
8. Energising the solenoid of the
washer pump, the current consumption should not exceed 2 amperes
over the motor consumption during
the energising period at 13 . 5 volts
0 . I. Washer should complete four
discharge cycles per one revolution of
the wiper motor output gear and
12-16 discharge cycles for one wash
cycle.
LUCAS
DISASSEMBLY - PERMANENT
MAGNET TYPE WIPER/WASHER
MOTOR
1. Remove the fixing nut, motor
crank assembly and flat washer.
CAUTION: The moulded gearwheel inside the gearbox must be
prevented from moving while the
crank assembly fixing nut is slackened
(or tightened on re-assembly). This
is most easily achieved by securing
the crank in a vice while the nut is
turned.
2. Remove the three screws attaching the washer unit to the motor. To
completely detach the washer unit
from the motor it will be necessary

to unsolder the washer unit solenoid
lead.
3. Withdraw the shaft and gear
being careful not to lose the dished
washer fitted beneath the gearwheel.
4. Unscrew and remove the two
fixing bolts from the motor yoke and
carefully remove the yoke assembly
and armature.
INSPECTING AND TESTING
THE DISASSEMBLED MOTOR
1. BRUSHES
The original specified length of the
brushes is sufficient to last the life of
the motor. If due to accidental
damage to the brushes, or faulty
commutator action, it becomes necessary to renew the brushes, the complete brush gear and body assembly
must be replaced. The brush gear
assembly must be renewed if the
main (diametrically opposed) brushes
are worn to -k , or if the narrow
section of the third brush is worn to
the full width of the brush.
Check that the brushes move
freely in the boxes.
(2) CHECKING BRUSH SPRINGS
The design of the brushgear does
not allow for easy removal of the
brush springs. This is due to the fact
that, similar to the brushes, the
springs are expected to last the life of
the motor and should not normally
require renewing. In the unlikely
eveDJ: of the spring pressure failing to
meet the specified requirements, the
complete brushgear service-assembly
must be renewed, in a similar manner
to that necessary for servicing the
brushes.
To check the spring pressure press
on the end face of the brush with a
push-type spring gauge (see Fig. 6)
until the bottom of the brush is level
with the bottom of the slot in the
brush box, when the spring pressure
reading should be 5-7 ozf.
Note: In the event of the brushgear being renewed, it is important
to re-connect and position the cables
in accordance with Fig. 25
1 Negative brush cable

2 Third brush cable
3 Positive brush cable
FIG. 25- Checking brush spring pressure.
Mterwards, clear the inter-segment

spaces of copper swarf.
(4) INSPECTION OF MOULDED
GEAR
Examine the gearwheel, especially
the teeth, for signs of wear or damage.
If the gearwheel needs renewing, a
shaft-and-gear service replacement
assembly will have to be fitted.
(5) BEARINGS
All bearings are self-lubricating
and require no attention for the life
of the motor.
The bearings are not a serviced
item and if for any reason replacement is required the body and/ or
yoke assemblies must be renewed.
ASSEMBLY
This is generally a reversal of the
dismantling procedure detailed in (b)
but special consideration should be
given to ..he following:
1.
A liberal quantity of Shell Alvania

No. 2 grease is necessary for lubricating the gearwheel teeth, the gear
wheel cam and the worm gear on the
armature shaft. The total quantity of
grease must not be less than 15 cc.
ISW
(3) TESTING AND SERVICING

THE ARMATURE
Use armature testing equipment

to check the armature windings for
open and short circuits.
Test the soundness of the armature
insulation by using a mains test lamp
(Fig. 7). Lighting of the lamp indicates faulty insulation.
If the commutator is worn, it can
be lightly skimmed while the armature is mounted in a lathe.
15-21
IIOV........_.
FIG. 26- Armature insulation Test.
2.
Armature end-float is
0.008" (0.05-0.2 mm).
0. 002-
To obtain a satisfactory end-float

adjustment with the motor and gearbox completely assembled, position
the unit with the thrust screw uppermost, tighten the thrust screw until
abutment takes place and then
slacken it off one quarter turn and
secure it in this position by tightening the locknut.
The yoke fixing bolts should be
tightened to a torque of 25 lbs. in. If
a service replacement armature is
being fitted, it is advisable to fint
slacken the armature end-float thrust
screw before tightening the yoke
fixing bolts. Mterwards, reset the
thrust screw.
3
Before fitting the motor crank
assembly to the gear wheel shaft, plug
in the vehicle wiring and operate the
wiper switch to set the motor in the
park position. Fit the crank to the
shaft in the position indicated on the
wiper body.
15-22
GROUP 15 LIGHTING
WASHER PUMP
TO DISMANTLE
1. Remove three screws fixing
pump to wiper motor.
2. Slip off white plastic cover.
3. Push cam follower towards bulb
then slide solenoid assembly out of
housing.
4. Disengage large tension spring
from cam follower.
5. Lift cam follower and pawl
assembly from locking pin and remove pawl from cam follower by
easing out of the locking hole.
6. Remove retainer clip and spring
from timing wheel.
7. Disengage tension springs on
latch and tension spring from seconcary lever.
SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
8. Prise secondary lever upwards

to disengage from rubber bulb.
9. Lift latch and timing gear in
one movement.
10. Lift locking wheel from pin.
11. Remove four screws from
valve assembly and remove assembly.
12. Remove rubber bulb upwards
from housing.
TO ASSEMBLE
1. Replace rubber bulb in housing; insert spring into bulb and screw
on valve assembly.
2. Replace locking wheel over pin.
3. Stand timing wheel on pin;
stand latch on pin and replace both
in one movement (ensure timing
wheel meets with top section of
locking wheel).
4. Replace small tension spring on
latch; replace spring and retainer clip
to secure timing wheel.
5. Slide secondary lever over the
moulded section of rubber bulb and
moulded pin on lever. Replace spring
on lever.
6. Replace cam follower over pin
ensuring that pawl is engaged in
timing wheel. Replace large tension
spring on cam follower.
7. Push cam follower towards bulb
and slide solenoid into housing ensuring that black lead is facing
upwards.
8. Replace white plastic cover and
attach pump to wiper motor ensuring
that cam follower engages with cam.
15-23
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
15-5
CIRCUIT PROTECTION
Location
Function
Dome Courtesy
Fuse Panel
Tail, Pork.License
Fuse Panel
Stop Light
Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel
Radio
Heater
Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel
Cigar Lighter
Fuse Panel
Windshield Wiper and

Back Up Lamps
Light-Instrument Panel
Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel
2
4
6
6
Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel
Light-Luggage Compartment
7
4
2
Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel
8
8
Circuit Breaker 9
Light-Glove Box
Light~Headlights
Horns
Fuse Panel
BULB CHART
8Amp
8Amp
16Amp
8Amp
8Amp
16Amp
8Amp
8Amp
8Amp
8Amp
8Amp
8Amp
8Amp
22Amp
8Amp
BULB CHART (Continued)

Wattage
Unit
Wattage
Unit
50/75
Headlight
ALL MODELS
Front Turn Signal
21
Parking
6
21
Rear Turn Signal

and Stop / Tail
License Plate
Lights
(Stat.
21
Wagon)
21
Luggage Compartment
10
Cargo Light (Wagon)
10
Dome Light
10
Warning Light Oil and Alternotor
2.2
Brake Warning Light

Radio Dial
Turn Signal (Ins. Panel)
2.2
2.0
2.2
2.2
2.2
Instruments Jllluminationl
Heater Control
6/ 21
.Sack Up Lights (Sedan)

Up
8
6
Turn Signals
Light-PRNDL Dial
Back
Rating Time
Hi Beam Indicator
2.2
Speedometer
Glove Compartment
2.2
5.0
Courtesy Light Fairmont
15
Front and Rear Door

Automatic Transmission Control
2.2
HORN
Horn current draw at 12V
HEATER MOTOR CURRENT DRAW

4-5 Amps
At low speed
At high speed
INSTRUMENTS
Fuel and Temperature Gauges
Average voltoge at terminals
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
5 Volts
!Mounting Clip Bolt Torque
TURN INDICATOR
Current draw at 12V
4.5 Amperes ot 12V

5.6 Amperes at 12V
0.4 Amps
3~1
Ft.
Lbs.l
15-24
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS

PRES LITE
CURRENT CONSUMPTION
(HOT)
OUTPUT SPEED
(HOT)
2.5 Amp maximum at 13.5 V.

HIGH
LOW
65 R.P.M.
40 R.P.M.
LUCAS
CURRENT CONSUMPTION
(after 60 seconds from cold)
Light running (linkage disconnected)
Output Speed (light running)
Two Speed
1-1.8 amps at 12 V. (Low)
2-2.6 amps at 12 V. (High)
35-40 R.P.M. (Low)
56-66 R.P.M . (High)
SPEEDO GEAR COMBINATIONS

Axle Ratio
Tyre Size
No. Of Teeth
Driving Gear
No. Of Teeth
Driven Gear
Colour
B.W.
Manual
& Auto
3.23:1
6.95 X 14
7.35 X 14
7.75 X 14
ER70 x 14
185 X 14
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(21)
(21)
(20)
(21)
(21)
(it. Green)
(Lt. Green)
(Brown)
(Lt. Green)
(Lt. Green)
B.W.
Manual
& Auto
3.50:1
6.95 X 14
7.3 5 X 14
7.75x14
ER70 x 14
18"5x14
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(23)
(22)
(22)
(23)
(23)
(Black)
(Grey)
(Grey)
(Black)
(Black),
8 Cyl. 6 Cyl. B.W.

302 CI.D.[
Manual
2.92 :1
6.95 X 14
7.35 X 14
7.75 X 14
ER70x14
185 X 14
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(8)
(19)
(19)
(18)
(19)
(19)
(Pink)
(Pink)
(Purple)
(Pink)
(Pink)
6 Cyl .
3.23 :1
6.95
7.35
7.75
ER70
185
14
14
14
14
14
7
7
7
7
7
18
18
18
18
18
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Engine
Transmission
6 Cyl.
6 Cyl.
U.S. 4 Speed
RUG-D
X
X
X
X
X
U.S. 4 Speed
RUG-D
2.92 :1
6.95 X 14
7.35 X 14
7.75 X 14
ER70 x 14
1 85 X 14
7
7
7
7
7
17
1 6,
16
17
17
Purple
Orange
Orange
Orange
Purple
8 Cyl.
302 CI.D.
US. C4
Auto
2.92 :1 .
6.95 X 14
7.35 X 14
7.75 X 14
ER70 x 14
185 X 14
8
8
8
8
8
i9
19
18
19
19
Tan
Tan
Grey
Tan
Tan
8 Cyl
351-2V
U S 4 Speed
RUG-D
3.0 1
7.35 X
7.75 X
1 85 X
ER70 x
14
14
14
14
7
7
7
7
17
16
17
17
Purple
Orange
Purple
Purple
8 Cyl.
351 - 4V
U.S . 4 Speed
RUG-AS
3.50 1
ER70
14
17
Purple
8 Cyl.
35 1 -2V
U .S. C4
Auto
2.75 :1
6.95
7.35
185
ER70
7.75
14
14
14
14
14
8
8
8
8
8
18
18
18
18
17
Grey
Grey
Grey
Grey
Natural
6.95 X
7.35 X
185 X
ER70 x
14
14
14
14
8
8
8
8
18
18
18
18
Grey
Grey
Grey
Grey
8 Cyl.
302 C.I.D.
8 Cyl.
351-4V
U.S. FMX
Auto
2.75 :1
X
X
X
VENTILATION, HEATING,
ACCESSORIES
GROUP
16
PAGE
PART 16-1-
Ventilating and Heating
16-2
PART 16-2-
Air Conditioning
16-7
PART 16-3-
Radio-Stereo Tape Player
16-26
16-2
PART
161
VENTILATING AND HEATING

Page
Section
1
Section
16-2
Control Adjustments
Ventilating System
16-2
Blower Motor Electrical Circuit
16- 5
Heating System
16-2
Heater Hose Routing
16-5
Diagnosis and Testing
16 -3
Heater Hose Replacement
16-5
Ventilating and Heating Trouble Diagnosis
16- 5
Bleeding Air From Heater Core
16-5
16-3
Removal and Installation
16-6
Loose Motor Fan Test
16-5
Heater -
Assembly Removal
16-6
Blower Switch Test
16-6
Heater -
Asembly Installation
16-6
Plugged Heater Core Test
16-5
Common Adjustments and Repairs
16-5
Ventilating System
16-5
Heating System
16-5
Guid~
Pare
VENTILATING SYSTEM
Two ventilating air outlet ducts
are located under and at each end
of the instrument panel; both ducts
are open to the cowl air inlet plenum
chamber. Two manually operated
flap valves are located within the air
ducts. The flap valves are opened, to
allow the entry of fresh air into the
passenger compartment, by pulling
the respective left or right hand
knobs on the instrument panel
(Fig. 1). Pull knob half way out for
floor level or full out for face level.
HEATING SYSTEM
The heater is a blown system
connected to an opening in the
left hand air duct. The entire
heater assembly is located under the
instrument panel, and it is necessary
to remove the heater assembly to ser-
vice major components of the heater.

Outside air is drawn into the
vehicle from the cowl inlet through
the left-hand air duct into the heater
housing and through the heater core
and then discharged through outlets
in the distribution box or windscreen
demister outlets (Fig. 2).
AIR AND TEMPERATU1tE

CONTROL
The control assembly is located on
the dash panel in the instrument
cluster assembly. It contains two
horizontal slide levers and a blower
switch (Fig. 2).
The upper lever is used for controlling mode position. The lower
lever is used for controlling air temperature. The three-position switch
controls the two-speed motor and
fan. The air temperature is varied by
a temperature control door which
blends hot and cold air. A tap in the
engine compartment cuts off water
in the cold position.
As the temperature control lever
is moved- from the cold to hot
position, a Bowden cable operates
the temperature control door to mix
hot and cold air through the heater.
The air is then discharged into

the distribution chamber. A distribution flap valve is located within
the chamber to control the discharge
of air between the interior and the
screen and to close off all air in
the off position.
The 1apper control lever actuates
a Bowden cable connected to the
flap valve in the distribution
chamber. Air is directed as required
through the interior air outlets or
through the demist outlets below
the windscreen.
The air flow distribution can thus
be modulated by setting the control
lever in any position between "interior" position and the "off" position, varying the volume of air
erttering through the interior outlets. All air flow is cut off with the
control lever in the "off" position.
A single demist nozzle directs the
air to two slots in upper dash panel
below the windscreen.
Two speeds are provided for the
blower with a 3 position switch
in the control assembly. A resistor
located in the motor circuit controls
the "lo" speed. The amount of
heating can be varied by the two
16-3
PART 16-1- VENTILATING SYSTEM AND HEATER
II
ii
.I
I
~'
~lll.tM~VM ~
..
_/
IDfr.AU.c::.t.II.Ll ;!OICAIUUJ1CD.JD
7HIITWICN11Ji#' IAUC U 17.LI..Y
CI.DMO o'CM:8 t:W N5T IWtiA .)1U
. - , NIPIIIO
rcL JIJN4It04 .
Mil.'
..,r ..
/ilat:HIP'
CJ10"
.C..C
nt:r""'l.
-------- FIG. 1 - Fresh Air Ventilation.

blower speeds.
HEATING AND DEMISTING
For maximum effect :

1. The left hand air duct must
be fully closed.
2. The temperature control lever
moved to the "HOT" position.
3. The fan switched to the "HI"
position. The distribution lever may
EJ
be moved to either the "FLOOR" or

"SCREEN" positions, intermediate
positions may be selected to give
combined effects.
COOL AIR VENTILATION
With the temperature control in

the cold position, the unit will
function as a ventilation system,
directing the air flow to the interior

or screen as required.
MIXED VENTILATION
Should it be desirable, with the

right and left hand air vents full open,
cool air may be admitted to face
level with warm air being directed
to the screen or to the interior or
both, by normal operation of the
heater.
VENTILATING AND HEATING TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
INSUFFICIENT OR NO
HEAT
1. Burned out fuse or loose wires

to the heater blower.
2. Defective ground, or defective
blower motor.
3. Fan loose on motor shaft, or
motor stalled.
4. Defective heater blower switch.
5. A kinked, clogged, or collapsed
water hose.
INSUFFICIENT OR NO
DEMISTING
1. Improperly adjusted demister

control cable.
2. Plugged or loose defroster nozzle obstructed demister openings at
windshield.
TOO MUCH HEAT
I. Incorrectly adjusted temperature control door.
6. Improperly connected heater

hoses.
7. Plugged heater core, or a1r
outlet.
8. Improperly installed or defective engine thermostat.
9. Incorrectly installed and adjusted control cables.
10. Air leaks in the body.
CO..CR H.14TA MOTOR. DASH PANCL

OPENING.
-.APPLY 58 M4G.3.Z A
I
.sCAt.CR 8TwN corR

f OA Sh PAN L TO liOAM ... WATA
Tlc.H T AND OUST PAIXJF" .SAL.
ltiOZllL
A~Y
DEFR05TER
a--
---""'"
Cltlfl.JU MDNT o;r
IS =<1~<'1'
/'hzui
i::~u":~ ~~
"'
f'tbo/J 1'6 ~NII'IIIt#.
,~
.\
\
"-...
...
COOITIIll
'"::oNHfrTIVN
NlJi.TCR
V'I('Y
FIG. 2- Heater Installation
~.)'1"
""'-J
)>
:::!
G)
PART 16-1- VENTILATING SYSTEM AND HEATER

TESTING
The following tests may be made
on the heater: Burned out fuses,
loose wire connections, defective
wires, collapsed hoses and air leaks
in the body may be determined by
visual inspection of the parts.
LOOSE MOTOR FAN TEST

Turn on the heater switch, and
EJ
listen for the sound of the motor. If

only a hum is heard, the fan is loose
on the motor shaft.
BLOWER SWITCH TEST

Substitute a known good blower
switch for the suspected switch.
PLUGGED HEATER CORE
TEST
Start the engine and temporarily
16-5
remove the outlet hose from the

heater core (the hose may be detached from heater in engine compartment). Very little or no flow
of water from the core outlet indicates that the core is plugged. Make
certain the water is being supplied
to the core inlet: i.e. the control
lever is set at HOT.
VENTILATING SYSTEM
Bowden cable operated vents and
air inlets are adjusted so that the
vents are tightly closed when the
control knobs are approx. 1/16" from
being pushed all the way in.
Loosen the Bowden cable retaining
screw at the vent control arm, move
the cable housing back and forth
until the vent is closed when the knob
is -ft to k inch from the in position,
then tighten the retaining screw.
16 AMP. FUSE
BROWN +WHITE
GREEN+ RED
IGNITION
SWITCH
~----------------------------------------~~
HEATER
HEATER MOTOR
SWITCH~-~
RED
BLOWER MOTOR
ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
For the blower motor circuit
wiring diagram refer to figure 3.
HEATER HOSE ROUTING
Care must be taken when servicing
the hoses to insure a smooth kink
free installation for maximum heating.
HEATER HOSE
REPLACEMENT
To replace a heater hose, drain
the coolant, remove the hose, cut a
new hose to the same length as the
old hose, install the hose, and replace
the coolant. Make certain that the
heater hoses do not come in
contact with any part of the
exhaust system.
After the coolant has been replaced,
bleed the air from the heater core.
BLEEDING AIR FROM
HEATER CORE
Remove the hose at the outlet connection of the heater core (hose that
leads to the water pump). Allow
any trapped air to flow out. When
a continuous flow of coolant is obtained, connect the hose to the core.
YELLOW
FIG. 3-Heater Motor Circuit

HEATER SYSTEM
5. Refit the control cable retaining clip.

6. Check the leyer travel.
CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS
TEMPERATURE
To assure maximum temperature
the following temperature control
adjustments should be made.
1. Loosen the temperature control

cable retaining clip (at the heater end
of the cable).
2. Move the control lever (upper)
hard left against the internal stop
(cold position).
3. Move the lever to the right
off the stop.
-ft"
4. Fully close the temperature

control door.
HEAT AND DEMIST (Fig. 2)

1. Loosen the distribution control
cable retaining clip (at the heater end
of the cable).
2. Move the distribution control
lever (lower) hard left against the
internal stop (off position).
3. Move the lever to the right -ft
off the stop.
4. Hold the distribution valve
crank (right hand side of distribution
box) in the fully closed position.
5. Refit the control cable retaining clip.
6. Check the lever travel.
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
16-6
EJ
HEATER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Drain the Cooling System.

2. Remove the glove box.
3. Disconnect the temperature/
mode and left hand air duct control
cables.
4. Remove the hoses from the
heater pipes in engine compartment.
5. Disconnect the wiring plug at
the heater assembly.
6. Remove the left hand air duct
and the demist nozzle retaining clips.
7. Disconnect the feed wire at the
top of the heater above the fan .
8. Remove the 4 heater assembly
retaining nuts from the dash panel
(engine compartment).
9. Remove the heater assembly
from the dash panel.
HEATER ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION

heater.
1. Mount the heater assembly to

Pasten the
the dash panel,
heater in place with the 4 nuts, spring
anq flat washers.
2. Connect the air vent and temperature control cables
3. Adjust the control cables and
install the glove box.
4. Replace the left hand air duct
and cable.
5. Connect the wiring plug and
feed wire.
6. Refit demist nozzle clips.
7. Connect water hoses.
8. Fill the cooling system.
9. Bleed the system.
HEATER CONTROL ASSEMBLY

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the wiring plug at

the heater.
2. Disconnect the cables from the
water valve and heater.
housing.
4. Remove the control assembly
which is retained by two screws.
INSTALLATION
Installation is the reverse of removal. For adjustments refer to
Section 3.
-WI.TCR IIALVC CAlLI
(All)
\
CONNECT .S'WI".U
WfiUNt; PLvtiO 10
14CIITR
A'"~ro.t
FIG. 4- Heater Control.
16-7
PART
16-2
AIR CONDITIONING

Diagnosis and Testing ... . ..
Controls position and operation
Sight glass ... ... ...
Magnetic clutch test
Receiver dryer test
Compressor seal leak test
Refrigerant leaks
Compressor oil level check ...
Safety Precautions ... ...
16- 7
16- 9
16-11
16-15
16-15
16-15
16-15
16-18
16-18
16-19
Adjustments ... ... ...

Discharging the system
Evacuation ...
Recharging .. . . .. .. . . ..
Major Repairs ... ... ...
Removal & installation ...
Compressor
Clutch bearing .. .. . . ..
Specifications ... ... ...
Operating instructions ...
16-20
16-20
16-20
16-20
16-22
16-22
16-22
16-24
16-25
16-25

This zone ranges in temperature from
70 to 9QF and in relative humidity
from 30% to 70% . Outside conditions
determine the actual recommended
inside conditions.
DESCRIPTION
The Air Conditioning System is a

combined heater-cooler unit located
in the forward part of the automobile.
Functionally, the unit is a normal
mechanical refrigeration system,
combining the primary components
of a compressor, condenser receiver,
expansion valve and evaporator. In
addition, a magnetic clutch belt
driven from the engine crank, is used
for the compressor drive.
Basically, the capacity of any air
conditioning system, be it in a building or in a car, should be such that
inside conditions are maintained
within the normal "comfort zone"
CAPILLARY
The heater unit is functionally the

same as described in Part 16-1.
OPERATION
(a)
REFRIGERANTCYCLE
The refrigerant cycle is as follows:

Low pressure, low temperature gas
from the evaporator enters the compressor at the suction valve. In the
compressor the gas is raised to a high
temperature and pressure. Superheat
is added to the gas due to heat of
compression and mechanical heat.

From the compresf,or, the gas enters the condensor where the superheat is first removed and the charge
is condensed to the liquid state (still
at high pressure) .
Leaving the condensor, the high
pressure liquid passes to the receiver
then to the expansion valve. At this
point, the throttling action of the expansion valve reduces the liquid to
a low temperature and pressure
where it enters the evaporator.
In the evaporator, the liquid boils

until the charge is entirely vapourised , then returns to the compressor.
TUBE
EXPANSION VALVE
COMPRESSOR
CONDENSER
HIGH. PRESSURE LIQUID
tal
LOW . PRESSURE LIQUID
HIGH. PRESSURE VAPOR
f/lA
LOW. PRESSURE VAPOR
FIG. 1. Refrigerant Cycle
16-8
PRJIJ 7fJ T!(,I/(EA/11'116

l-tJ6N
An/IM,I-/INI/1'~ IYU I ~
lt.(.r r
1. -MARV
NSIJQC. ( ..A ,f'J:T

A(,41NST
(b) SYSTEM CAPACITY

Design of the components of the
system is such as to provide a capacity
potential comparable to any unit presently marketed. Rated capacity of
the compressor is 3! tons at 4,000

R.P.M.
Note that one ton of refrigeration is
equivalent to the cooling effect of
melting 2,000 lbs of ice in 24 hours.
ro
:L"AA.i..
~~..,if /l.~~y
FIG. 2- Installation.
valve. As a suction is created in the

evaporator coil by the action of the
compressor, it allows the refrigerant
entering the coils from the expansion
valve to expand and boil. This causes
an evaporative effect lowering the
temperature in the evaporator coil.
As the warm air is blown across the
coils, it is cooled to a comfortable
level.
(b) EXPANSION VALVE

(a)
EVAPORATORASSEMBLY
For the "front end" unit, the evaporator assembly contains the evaporating or cooling coil, blower, motor,
and controls. This assembly is located below the instrument panel in the front
compartment. Cooled air is discharged into
the cabin through adjustable louvres.
The evaporator coil is of fin and
tube construction and is made complete with inlet and outlet manifolding.
Male fitting s (expansion valve inlet and
evaporator outlet) extend through the
dash panel for connection to the expansion
valve in the engine compartment.
Refrigerant is sprayed into the
evaporator coil from the expansion
The expansion valve is a pressure

reducing control which regulates refrigerant flow to the evaporator. High
pressure freon enters the valve in
the liquid state and leaves as a low
pressure spray, being approximately
75% liquid by weight but 25% liquid
by volume. Its action is analogous
to the cor:1mon garden hose nozzles
where the hose line is "solid" with
water, but a fine spray is emitted from
the nozzle.
The expansion valve also senses suction
temperature, thereby actuating the valve.
With rise in suction line temperature
the charge in the bulb expands exerting pressure on the valve, forcing it
to open and allow more refrigerant
to flow. With reduced temperature

the charge contracts, relieving pressure to the valve diaphragm subseq
uently causing orifice ir. valve to
close.
(c) COMPRESSOR Fig. 24
The compressor is a -reciprocating
twin-cylinder type driven through a
magnetic clutch, which is belt driven
by a special pulley on the engine
crankshaft. Belt tension is obtained
by positioning of an adjustable idler
pulley. The fuction of the compressor
is to raise the low temperature. low
pressure gas entering from the eva
porator (suction side) to a high temperature high pressure gas which is
pumped to the condensor (discharge
side). In this compression process,
temperature of the discharge gas is
raised above that of the condensor air
supply (atmospheric temperature) ,
thereby dissipating heat removed
from the car interior.
The compressor is equipped with
two service valves. One is defined as
"discharge" and the other "suction".
Both are of the "back seat" type used
for service checks. With valve stem
PART 16-2- AIR CONDITIONING

full out (counter clockwise) the
gauge adaptor fitting is closed, allowing the cap to be removed and line to
be attached. Turning the stem (clockwise) opens the gauge port. To shut
the valve off to or from the compressor, the stems must be full in (clock
wise) .
On compressors equipped with Dill
core valve ports, the compressor can
be shut-off from the system by clamping off the suction and discharge
hoses.
The compressor mounts horizontally to the left (8 cyl.) and 250 2V

to right. 250 1V compressor is
mounted vertically on the right.
(d) MAGNETIC CLUTCH Fig. 24
The compressor drive clutch allows
the system to be "on" or "off" as
desired and also provides positive
temperature control when combined
with a thermostatic switch. The basic
parts of the clutch are the field drive
assembly. (F ield coil, bearing, slip
ring and pulley), clutch plate assembly and brush bracket assembly.
The magnetic clutch is employed
also to allow the compressor pulley to
free wheel when the air conditioner
is not being used, therefore, the compressor is not operating needlessly.
Therefore, during the winter or off
season it is not necessary to remove
the belt from the compressor pulley.
EJ
The compressor clutch has a ballbearing which is pressed into the field
coil assembly and located with a snap
ring. The clutch plate assembly is
pressed into the bearing and held by a
snap ring, and the hub is then secured
to the tapered compressor shaft with
a locking bolt. This permits the clutch
pulley to free wheel when the field
coil is not energised.
When the evaporator air and temperature switches are turned on, current is allowed to flow to the field
coil energising the electro-magnet;
this causes the clutch plate to be held
in contact with the field coil and
compressor pulley, thus the compressor is being driven through the clutch
plate. In the off position of the evaporator air switch the electro-magnet
is not energised and the clutch plate
does not contact the field coil assembly and therefore does not drive
the compressor.
(e) CONDENSOR
Like the evaporator, the condensor
is of fin and tube construction.
Discharge gas from the compressor
is pumped to the condensor, mounted
ahead of the car radiator. Air passing
over the condensor first removes the
heat of compression from the gas,
then condenses it to a liquid state.
Temperature of the air through the
16-9
condensor must be lower than the
saturation temperature of the discharge gas. Air temperature and
quantity determine the condensing
temperature and pressure.
The top fitting of the condensor is
to be used as the inlet fitting from the
compressor. The lower fitting is for
the liquid line returning freon to the
receiver.
Servicing the condensor coil consists mainly of removing bugs, dirt
and other foreign matter would tend
to restrict airflow across the condensor.
(f) RECEIVER-DRIER-SIGHT
GLASS
The receiver is a cylindrical housing incorporating inlet and outlet
ports filters, drier and sight-glass.
It functions as a reservoir for the
liquid refrigerant from the condensor providing sufficient charge for all
variations of weather. The drier
serves as a moisture trap and filters
minute substances which may travel
through the refrigerant circuit. The
sight glass aids in determining
whether system is fully charged or
not. In fully charged systems the
sight glass will appear clear and
when undercharged it will continue
bubbling or frothing when the system
is operated.
GAUGES INDICATE LOW HEAD

PRESSURE:
1. Defective compressor valves.
Replace valve plate.
2. Blown or defective gasket.
Replace gaskets.
GAUGES INDICATE LOW
SUCTION PRESSURE:
1. Insufficient refrigerant.
If bubbles or frothing are apparent in sight glass, add freon until
condition is corrected.
2. Restriction at drier or in lines
usually indicated by frosting at
point of restriction or lines being
cool on side of restriction away
from compressor.
Replace faulty part or remove restriction.
3. Expansion valve faulty .
6. Moisture freezing in expansion
valve.
Expansion valve and manifolding
will be frosted while coil tubes will
show little or no frost. Install new
drier, evacuate system and recharge.
7. Sticking of expansion valve caused
by corrosion.
8. Clogged drier indicated by frost
forming on drier.
9. Low air supply to evaporator.
GAUGES INDICATE HIGH
SUCTION PRESSURE:
1. Expansion valve faulty .
2. Leaking or broken compressor

valves.
Repair or replace valves with valve
kit.
3. Compressor drive belt slipping.
Adjust for proper tension.
4. Magnetic clutch slipping.
Check electrical circuit for proper
voltage to clutch.
5. Expansion valve not closing.
Evaporator coil flooding, causing
suction line to frost.
6. Suction service valve strainer
clogged.
Remove, clean and replace.
OVERHEATING OF ENGINE:
1. Loose Fan Belt.
2. Collapsing or obstructed radiator
hoses.
3. Faulty pressure cap on radiator.
4. Radiator plugged or exceedingly
dirty.
5. Inoperative thermostat- replace.
6. Bugs or dirt clogging fins of condenser or radiator- clean off.
7. Excess freon charge- purge overcharge.
COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT
TROUBLES:
1. Tension of drive belt - tension

new belts at 100-140 lbs. and belts
that are worn in at 90-110 lbs.
2. Drive belt slipping but correctly
tensioned.
Caused by overcharge of refrigerant, obstruction to cooling by condenser or air in system resulting
in high head pressures.
3. Belt life affected by incorrect pulley alignment, broken or buckled
pulleys, or excessive oil on belt or
fracture of cords due to forcing
belt in place.
-0I \
0
1972 FALCON FAIRLANE
.4/CHEATER CONTROL SETTING
"
Fl-"4CTIONAL CONTROL LEVER POSITION
A/C
~C~NI
Sou~
0
0
Nil
WIAT
POSITION
HI/
V .,..
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FIG. 3- Control Setting Chart and Vacuum Source Schematic
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Dll!f"05T
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Ra<:IRC.
A/C: POSITION
HEAT
'fLOOR
"'-'-
FLOOR
ONN TO
OUTSIO.
HV
HC:IAC.
14/C.
""'"
ONI4 TO
OUTSID
RE.c.IRC.
FRESH
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,..
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OFF
VA(.~
S&TT,.. CHMT
AIR CONOIT ION IN&

FALC.ON FAIRLAN[.
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PART 16-2- AIR CONDinONING
MODE ,_ OFF A/C & HEATER
16-11
---
A/C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN

COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE

CLOSED
A/ C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
DEFROST
RECIRC AIR
OUT
FLOOR HEAT OUT
IN
NV
FLOOR/DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
OFF
FLOOR .... DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 4 -Off A/C & Heater.

MODE ,_ MAXIMUM AIR CONDITIONING
(RECIRCULATING)
CLUTCH SWITCH CLOSED

COMPRESSOR OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE

CLOSED
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUT

RECIRC AIR
IN
NV
FLOOR / DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
!WfJ
MAX A/ C
FRESH
WARM
COOL
FAN
OFF
V
VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 5 - Maximum Air-conditioning (recirculating)
3
NOTE : A/C COMPRESSOR
OPERATES ONLY WITH
BLOWER ON
16-12
MODE : - FRESH AIR -
CONDITIONING

HOT WATER VALVE

CLOSED
FRESH AIR IN
A/C VENTS OUT
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
DEFROST
AECIAC AIR
FLOOR HEAT OUT
OUT
IN
NV
IMPORTANT : FOR MAX COMFORT

USE THIS SETTING FOR SHOAT
PERIODS ONLY (5-10 MIN.) IN
HIGH AMBIENT & HIGH HUMIDITY
CONDITIONS
FLOOR/ DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF
NOTE : A/ C COMPRESSOR
OPERATES ONLY WITH
BLOWER ON
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 6- Fresh Air-conditioning

MODE :-
.1.
FRESH OR RECIRCULATING A/C

SHOWING TEMPERATURE CONTROL
-~HOT WATER VALVE

PART OPEN
___
,____

A/ C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUT

NV
FLOOR / DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
ALT
I~
MAX A/ C
FRESH
WARM
COOL
OFF
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.
NOTE : AIC COMPRESSOR

OPERATES ONLY WITH
BLOWER ON
7- Fresh or Recirculating A/C showing Temperature Control
16-13
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDITIONING

MODE : - HEATER -
FLOOR/COOL
---

HOT WATER VALVE

FULLY OPEN
A/C VENTS bUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
DEFROST
RECIRC AIR
FLOOR HEAT OUT
OUT
IN
NV
FLOOR/ DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
r?M
FLOOR
I
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 8- Heater- Floor- Cool.

MODE :-
HEATER FLOOR -
MIDWARM
___........._
HOT WATER VALVE

FULLY OPEN
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUl
DEFROST
RECIRC AIR
IN
~
FLOOR
OFF
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 9- Heater- Floor- Mid-warm.
I
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
V = VACUUM
16-14
MODE:- HEATER -
FLOOR -
---
WARM
-~1,-
ili

HOT WATER VALVE

FULLY OPEN
FRESH AIR IN
A/C VENTS OUT
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUl
RECIRC AIR
IN
FLOOR/DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.lO- Heater- Floor- Warm.

MODE :-
HEATER -
MID POSITION FLOOR -
-~
1....-ili
HOT WATER VALVE

FULLY OPEN
DEFROST
__..,..._
A/ C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
RECIRC AIR
~"00' ~
IN
VON
;J. .
ID
FLOOR/DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
WARM
COOL
OFF
V = VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.ll- Heater- Mid-position- Defrost- Floor.
FLOOR HEAT OUl
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDinONING

MODE : - HEATER -
16-15
FULL DEFROST
____......._
AIC CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN
HOT WATER VALVE

FULLY OPEN
A / C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR
VAC MOTOR
AIR IN
DOOR
MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUT
RECIAC AIR
IN
FULL V
FLOOR/ DEFROST
VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
OEFAOST
WARM
COOL
OFF
V .., VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.12- Heater- Full defrost

NOISY ENGINE COMPONENTS
AND VIBRATIONS:
1. Brackets loose due to improper
mounting, loose bolts, or broken
support legs.
2. Missing or improperly applied
braces.
3. Clutch retaining bolt loose.
4. Crankshaft pulley loose or incorrectly mounted.
5. Rough bearings in idler pulley or
clutch.
6.. Compressor oil level below minimum.
7. Engine mounts in poor condition.
8. Drive belt tension below specifications.

ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS:
CLUTCH INOPERATIVE OR
NOISY:
1. Blown fuse.
2. Loose connection or broken wire.
3. Shorted slip ring or field coil.
4. Worn brushes.
5. Defective bearing.
6. Defective thermostatic switch.
BLOWER OR FAN MOTOR WILL
NOT OPERATE OR OPERATES
SLOW:
1. Blown fuse.
2. Wiring connections loose or wire
broken.
3. Defective switch.
4. Motor shaft tight or bearings
worn.
5. Fan misaligned.
USE OF SIGHT GLASS
Clean the sight glass before checking for a proper charge of refrigerant.
Then, observe the sight glass for
bubbles with the engine running at
1500 rpm and the A/C controls set at
maximum cooling. A continuous or
large amount of bubbles in the sight
glass indicate an undercharge of refrigerant . If an under-charge of refrigerant is found, check the system for
leaks. Repair any leaks, evacuate the
system with a good vacuum pump,
and charge the system with the proper
amount of Refrigerant-12 .
No bubbles in the sight glass
indicate either too much refrigerant
or a complete loss of refrigerant.
While observing the sight glass, cycle
the magnetic clutch off and on,
with the engine running at 1500
rpm. If refrigerant is in the system,
bubbles will appear while the clutch
is off and disappear when the clutch
is on. If no bubbles appear during
the on and off cycle of the magnetic
clutch, there is no refrigerant in the
system. If there is no refrigerant in
the system, it will be necessary to
leak test, repair as required, and
charge the system. Under conditions
of extremely high temperatures,
occasional foam or bubbles may
appear in the sight glass.
RECEIVER- DRYER TEST
Operate the air conditioner for

about five minutes; then, slowly move
your hand across the length of the
unit from one end to the other.
There should be no noticeable
difference in temperature. If cold
spots are felt, it indicates that the
unit is restricting the refrigerant flow ,
and the receiver-dryer must be
replaced.
MAGNETIC CLUTCH TEST
Disconnect the magnetic clutch

wire at the bullet connector, and connect it to the negative lead of an
ammeter. Connect the positive lead
of the ammeter to the battery
positive terminal. The magnetic clutch
should pull in with a distinct click
and the current reading on the
ammeter.
TWO-CYLINDER
COMPRESSOR
CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAK TEST
Oil leak problems can be identified

by observing the three possible leakage paths shown in Fig.l5
Oil Leakage Past
Carbon Ring
Oil weepage through the carbon

ring forming a streak or drip pattern
as shown in the left illustration of
Fig.l5 , ia considered normal. However, if oil is present on the surface
--
9'
0\
WIRING
CONNCTIONS
MV.S T 8 riRMLY PUSHCDON TD VACtA.N VALV

VNTIL M "'L CUP.5 LOCK
1
NC.55AR.'Y APPLY A .SIIML.L AJrJJ.JiiT CT LIQUID
NOZ.ZU: (Iocr)
( tr
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INSTAUMLNT CLUSTER
(lou)
G\
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c,
--
--~
Ll-l
8RAGI<T ATTAC.HING AOL.T
WIRC AS.SY
-<
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CONTROL ASS Y
C.ONOITIONQ
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WIRING et::JNIIEC T'IONS r

CDIVNE..C. T
MUL TIPL PL.U~ CONN C. TQit
"'Tl:) RCSUTDI'f A.SSY
CONN..CT
..S/NC.LC PLUG CONNC70R
TO ACLAY T&AMINAL
V~t.SS-~
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CA8L .SOTHATWHN INNCR. CA&

IS PUSNCO rVLLY IN THC. TCMP CONTROL LC.VDf
15 APPFf.OJt;: rRONI LH .SrOP
AlP CONDITIONING
FALCON FA/PLAN
FIG. 13- Installation- A/C Vacuum Control
STA'ITER.
el
..,
To bATUJIY (!lol)
Pf\H!L
PAS~
'""
I
I
...,.
:1111
II
SlilotrcN
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To Co&. ~
. . lbt.H41fr sw,ftCH ere.
oI -
,..I
iii
:z
awwec.
30
~srcwt.
:z
EVAPORATOR ASSY
~.
FIG. 14- Installation A/C Electrical Schematic.
-f\
- .J
16-18
LEAKAGE
THROUGH "0-RING"
NORMAL WEEPAGE
PAST CARBON RING
LEAKAGE THROUGH
DAMAGED BELLOWS
FIG. 15- Oil Leak paths compressor oil seal.

RUBBER TUBING
411 / 1 6 1 N C H - - - - 1
-1-1 12 1NCH-1
THIS END FOR

HORIZ().ITAL MOUNT
Ca.IPRESSOR
12 NOTCHES 1/8 INCH

APART STARTING AT
EACH END
OIL TO BE CHECKED WITH
KEYWAY IN SHAFT FACING
THE HEAD OF THE COMPRESSOR.
FIG. 16- Compressor

oil level dipstick.
.
of the compressor beyond the clutch
or has sprayed on the hood and surrounding brackets, the leakage is
excessive. Replace the seal assembly.
Oil Leakage Through
0-Ring
Leakage through the 0-ring type

gasket on the cover plate (center
illustration, Fig.15 ) indicates possible
cracked, pinched, split or loose
mounting screws. Check the screws
for good condition and proper
torque (7 to 13 ft-lbs). If there is
heavy oil discharge with screws of
good condition and correct torque,
replace the oil seal assembly.
Oil Leakage Through
Damaged Bellows
Oil will leak through the rubber

bellows as shown in the right illust-
Ll293-A
ration of Fig. 15 if the bellows

distorts or cracks due to heat. A large
discharge of .oil on the front of the
compressor beyond the clutch indi
cates this type of leakage. Replace
the oil seal assembly.
Refrigerant-12 Leakage
Refrigerant-12leakage through any

part of the seal can be determined
only by a leak detector. Be sure to
wipe all the oil away from the ~eal
area before using the leak detector,
because the oil may contain refrigerant which would give erroneous
readings. If refrigerant leakage at the
seal exceeds I oz. per year, replace
the seal as outlined in Section 5.
If no leak is found at the compressor crankshaft seal, thoroughly
check all system fittings and lines
for leaks as outlined in this Section.
FIG. 17- Compressor oil level,

check and oil trap.
COMPRESSOR OIL LEVEL CHECK
Under normal conditions, when the
air conditioning system is operating satisfactorily, the compressor oil level need
not' be checked. There is no place for the
oil to go except inside the sealed system,
when the engine is first started, some of
the oil will be pumped into the rest of the
refrigerant system. After several minutes
of operation, most of the oil is returned
to the compressor crankcase.
Check the compressor oil level only
if any portion of the refrigerant system
is being replaced, or if there was a leak in
the system and the" refrigerant is being
replaced.
PART 16-2- AIR CONDITIONING

The compressor oil capacity is 10
fluid ounces. If there is a surplus of oil
in the system, too much oil will circulate
with the refrigerant, cause a reduction in
cooling capacity of the system.
Too little oil will result in poor
lubrication of the compressor.
When it is necessary to replace a
component of the refrigeration system,
certain procedures must be followed to
assure that the total oil charge in the
system is correct after the new part has
been fitted to the car.
When the compressor is operated,
oil gradually leaves the compressor and is
circulated through the system with the
refrigerant. Eventually a balanced condition
is reached in which a certain amount of oil
is retained in the compressor and a certain
amount is continually circulated.
If a component is removed from
the system after operation, some oil will
go with it. To maintain the original total
oil charge, it is necessary to compensate for
this by replacing oil in the new replacement part.
The procedure for replacing oil
is as follows: -
COMPRESSOR ONLY
1. Idle the engine for 10 minutes at
1000-1500 rpm at maximum cooling and
high blower speed to allow oil to circulate
in the normal manner.
2. Discharge the system and remove
the. compressor from the vehicle. Remove
the drain plug and pour the oil into a
measuring container. Make a note of the
amount of drained oil, then discard it.
3_ If a new compressor is being fitted
drain all initial fill oil from the sump.
4. If the oil drained from the removed
compressor measured less than 4 ounces,
replace 6 ounces of new oil in the replacement compressor.
compressor measured between 4 and 6
ounces, the oil is properly distributed
throughout the system. Simply replace
an equal amount of new oil in the replacement compressor.
compressor measured 6 ounces or more,
replace ONLY 6 ounces of new oil in the
replacement compressor.
REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS
Whenever replacing a component of
the air conditioning system, add measured
quantities of oil to the component to
assure that the total oil charge in the
system is correct before the unit is operated.
Oil should be added to replacement
components as follows :Evaporator
Add 3 fluid ounces
Condenser
Add 1 fluid ounce
Add 1 fluid ounce
Receiver
Condenser and receiver assembly add 2

fluid ounces.
Oil should be poured directly into the
replacement component.
If an evaporator is installed, pour oil
into inlet pipe with the pipe held vertically
so oil will drain into the core.
If any other components such as
valves or hoses are replaced, no additional
oil is necessary whilst the air-conditioning
system is discharged. The compressor oil
level can be checked using the tools
shown in figures 16-17 as follows:1. Remove the oil filler plug from
the compressor. Insert a flattened 1/8 inch
diameter rod (Fig. 17) in the oil filler ' hole
until it bottoms.
The dipstick must be wiped completely
clean before insertion. If necessary, slightly
rotate the compressor crankshaft by hand
so that the dipstick will clear the crankshaft.
On horizontally mounted compressors,
the oil check hole is located on the side of
the crankcase that faces up. On the
opposite or downward side, there is a
corresponding boss provided on the inner
wall as an alternate oil check hole for a
different mounting. When checking the oil
level on such a compressor, angle the
dipstick so that it bottoms against the
lower side of the crankcase and not
against the boss.
4. Pull out the dipstick, and check
the oil indication. It should show at least
the minimum amount of oil as indicated
in Fig. 16.
If the oil level is low, add ESAM2C31-A (Ford Part No. C9AZ-19577A) oil
If too much oil is indicated proceed
as follows:(a) Draw out all of the oil using a trap
similar to that shown in Fig. 17, or remove
the compressor from the vehicle and pour
the oil out of the crankcase.
(b) Add oil until at least the minimum
amount is indicated on the dipstick .
5. Remove the dipstick and refit the
filler plug.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The refrigerant used in the air conditioner system is Refrigerant-12 . Refrigerant-12 is nonexplosive, noninflammable, noncorrosive, has practically no odor, and is heavier than air.
Although it is classified as a safe refrigerant, certain precautions must be
observed to protect the parts involved
and the person who is working on
the unit.
Use only Refrigerant-12. Do not
use refrigerant that was canned for
pressure operated accessories (such
as boat air horns). It is not pure
Refrigerant-12 and will cause a mal-
16-19
function. Liquid Refrigerant-12, at
normal atmospheric pressures and
temperatures, evaporates so quickly
that it contacts. For this reason,
extreme care must be taken to prevent any liquid refrigerant from
coming in contact with the skin and
especially the eyes.
Refrigerant-12 is readily absorbed
by most types of oil. It is therefore
recommended that a bottle of sterile
mineral oil and a quantity of weak
boric acid solution be kept nearby
when servicing the air conditioning
system. Should any liquid refrigerant
get into the eyes, use a few drops of
mineral oil to wash them out, then
wash the eyes clean with the weak
boric acid solution. Seek a doctor's
aid immediately even though irritation
may have ceased.
Always wear safety goggles when
servicing any part of the refrigerant
system.
The Refrigerant -12 in the system is
always under pressure. Because the
system is tightly sealed, heat applied
to any part would cause this pressure
to build up excessively.
To avoid a dangerous explosion,
never weld, use a blow torch, solder,
steam clean, bake body finishes, or
use any excessive amount of heat on
or in the immediate area of any part
of the air cooling system or refrigerant supply tank, while they are
closed to the atmosphere whether
filled with refrigerant or not.
The liquid refrigerant evaporates so
rapidly that the resulting refrigerant
gas will displace the air surrounding
the area where the refrigerant is released. To prevent possible suffocation in enclosed areas, always discharge the refrigerant from an air
cooling system into the garage exhaust collector. Always maintain
good ventilation surrounding the
work area.
Although
Refrigerant-12
gas,
under normal conditions, is nonpoisonous, the discharge of refrigerant
gas near an open flame can produce
a very poisonous gas. This gas will
also attack all bright metal surfaces.
This poisonous gas is generated when
the flame-type leak detector is used .
Avoid inhaling the fumes from the
leak detector. Make certain that
Refrigerant-12 is both stored and
installed in accordance with all state
and local ordinances.
When admitting Refrigerant-12 gas
into the cooling unit, always keep the
tank in an upright position. If the
tank is on its side or upside down ,
liquid Refrigerant-12 will enter the
16-20
system and damage the compressor.

In surrounding air temperatures above
90 degrees F ., prolonged engine idle
will result in excessively high compressor pressures.
El
ADJUSTMENTS
DISCHARGING THE SYSTEM
When replacing any component

in the air conditioning system, the
system must be discharged. To discharge the system proceed as follows:
1. Remove the caps from the high
and low pressure service (Schrader)
valves in the high and low pressure
lines at the compressor (Fig. 18).
2. Turn both manifold gauge
valves fully clockwise to close the
gauge set to the center outlet hoses
(Fig. 19).
3. Connect the high and low
pressure gauge hoses with adapters,
to the respective high and low
pressure service valves at the compressor (Fig. 20).
4. Place the open end of the center
hose in a garage exhaust outlet.
5. Slowly depressurize the refrigeration system by opening the low
pressure gauge valve a slight amount
and allowing the refrigerant to discharge slowly from the system.Fig. 20
6. After the system is nearly discharged, open the high pressure
gauge valve very slowly to avoid
loosing an excessive amount of refrigerant oil and allow any refrigerant
remaining in the compressor and
high pressure line to discharge.
manifold gauge valve at the full

counter-clockwise or open position.
4. Set the high pressure (discharge) manifold gauge valve at the
full clockwi~e or closed position.
5. Open the Refrigerant-12 tank
valve to allow refrigerant to enter
the system, and observe the gauges.
When both gauges reach 60 to 80
pounds at approximately 75 degrees
F, shut off the tank valve.
6. Perform the leak test with the
leak detector (Fig. 21 ).
7. Set the A/C controls for maximum cooling (Fig. 5).
8. Start the engine and open the
R-12 tank valve again to prevent
drawing vacuum on the suction side.
9. With the engine running at
1500 rpm, complete charging the
system until the specified weight of
refrigerant has entered the system.
The sight glass should be clear with
no bubbles visible at this time. (Note:
Under 70 degrees F ambient a few
bubbles may appear in the sight glass).
10. If the refrigerant will not enter
the systein due to low temperature,
it may be necessary to place the
~efrigerant-12 tank in a container of
hot water at about 150 degrees F.
This will increase the R -12 pressure
and force the gas from the tank
during charging. Never heat the Re-
EVACUATING THE SYSTEM
1. Discharge the system as described in the foregoing procedure.

2. Attach atank of Refrigerant-12
and a vacuum pump to the manifold
gauge set. Make certain the Refrigerant-12 tank valve is tightly closed.
3. Open both manifold gauge set
valves.
4. Run the vacuum pump until
the low pressure gauge reads at least
25 inches and as close to 30 inches
of vacuum as possible . Continue
vacuum pump operation for 20-30
minutes to remove any moisture out
of the system. Turn off the pump
and close both gauge valves.
VALVE CLOSED
CHARGING THE SYSTEM
1. Discharge and evacuate the

system as outlined in the foregoing
procedures.
2. Leave the vacuum pump valve
closed .
3. Set the low pressure (suction)
L 1672-B
FIG. 18
frigerant-12 tank with a torch. A

dangerous explosion may result.
11. During the charging, the high
pressure (discharge) side may build
up to an excessive value. This can
be caused by an overcharge of refrigerant, or an overheated engine, in
combination with high surrounding
temperatures. Never allow the high
pressure to exceed 240 pounds while
charging. If it does, stop the engine,
determine the cause, and correct it.
12. After the proper charge has
been made, close the Refrigerant-12
tank valve, and check the system
pressures for proper operation. (Low
pressure suction gauge 4-25 psi; high
pressure discharge gauge 120-170 psi
at 70 to 90 degrees F ambient).
13. After satisfactory operation has
been achieved, disconnect the manifold gauge set high and low pressure
hoses from the service valves (Fig. 20).
14. Install caps on the service
valves and the manifold gauge set
lines (Fig. 18).
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDinONING
16-21
TO LOW PRESSU RE
"""'~
L1290-A
FIG. 21-
Transistorized
refrigerant
leak gun
FIG. 19- Manifold Gauge Set
CHECKING FOR LEAKS
Attach the manifold gauge set as

shown in Fig. 20. Leave both manifold
gauge valves at the maximum clockwise (closed) position. Both gauges
should show approximately 60 to 80
pounds pressure at 75F with the
engine not running. If ve~;y little
or no pressure is indicated, leave
the vacuum pump valve closed, open
the Refrigerant-12 tank valve, and set
the low pressure (suction) manifold
gauge valve to the counter clockwise
Note - when using transistorized

refrigerant leak gun refer to manufacturer's instructions. (Fig. 21).
Flame type
leak detector only. The smaller the
flame the more sensitive it is to
leaks. Therefore, to ensure accurate
leak indication, keep the flame as
small as possible. The copper element
must be red hot. If it is burned
away, replace the element. Hold the
open end of the hose just below each
suspected leak point for two or three
seconds. The flame will normally be

almost colourless. The slightest leak
will be indicated by a bright green
blue colour to the flame .
Be sure to check the manifold
gauge set and hoses for leaks as well
as the rest
the system.
NOTE: If the surrounding air is
contaminated with refrigerant gas,
the leak detector will indicate this
gas all the time. Good ventilation is
necessary to prevent this situation. A
fan, even in a well ventilated area, is
very helpful in removing small traces
of refrigerant vapour.
of
LO
MANIFOLD GAUGE Sfl
SIGHT GLASS
CO NDEN SER
V4CUI..L'.1 PUMP
FIG. 20-
16-22
EJ
COMPRESSOR
All compressor removal and installation operations, except belt replacement, can be performed only
after the unit has been discharged.
When replacing a compressor, the
oil level in the old compressor should
be checked. Then the right amount
of oil should be removed from added to the new compressor so that
the oil level is the same as that in the
old compressor. This keeps the
amount of oil in the system a constant. Failure to use this procedure
is the most common reason for
excessive oil in the crankcase. Refer
to Compressor Oil Level Check, Adjustments Section 3.
Removal
1. Discharge the system - refer
to Adjustments Section 3, and disconnect the two hoses from the
compressor (Fig. 24). Energize the
clutch and loosen and remove the
clutch mounting bolt.
2. Install a 5/8-11 bolt in the
clutch drive shaft hole. With the
clutch still energized, tighten the
bolt to loosen the clutch from the
shaft. Disconnect the clutch wire
at the bullet connector.
necessary (Section 3}.
3. Loosen the idler pulley or alternator and remove the drive belt and
the clutch and then remove the
mounting bolts and the compressor.
Installation
Before installing the compressor,
carefully remove any burrs or dirt
that may be on the compressor
shaft. The shaft must be dry and
brightly polished.
VALVE
HEAD
2. Remove the cylinder head bolts.

3. Remove the valve plate and
cylinder head from the compressor
by tapping upward with a fiber
hammer on the overhanging edge of
the valve plate.
4. Remove the valve plate from
the cylinder head by holding the
head and tapping against the valve
plate.
5. Remove the drip pan from
under the horizontally mounted com-
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The procedure for replacing a

blown head gasket is identical to the
procedure for replacing the valve
plate except that the old valve plate
is used. If a worn valve plate has
caused the cylinder walls to become
scored or has imbedded pieces of
metal in the pistons, the compressor
should be replaced.
Removal - AU Compressors
1. Discharge the system (Section
3 in this Part), and disconnect both
suction and pressure hoses. Place a
clean drip pan under the horizontally
mounted compressor.
1. Mount the clutch on the shaft

and install the mounting screw and
washer finger-tight. Place the compressor on the mounting bracket and
install the four mounting bolts fingertight.
2. Connect the clutch wire, energize the clutch and torque the clutch
mounting bolt to specification.
Tighten the compressor mounting
3. Install the belt and adjust and
tighten the idler pulley.
4. Install new Schrader valves in
the service valves if the original
compressor is to be reinstalled.
Leak test the compressor, then
evacuate it and connect it back into
the system.
5. Check the oil level in the compressor, and add or remove oil if
PLATE
GASKET
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AIR CONOITIONVG
FALCCN FAIRV.NE
FIG. 22- Installation Drg. 6 Cyl. Compressor
16-23
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDmONING
--
vu. .. ... ::a.t t ~ =~ .. nu. I":O'.rrt:n
ON ri'flCU _
P"')W'ER
VJEV SllWDiO DISTALl.ATION 0~ CLIJ'i'CH ASSY.
~]
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Bracket Compressor Mounting

Belt Idler Pulley Assembly
Alternator Assembly
Pulley Assembly Fixed
Clutch Assembly
Compressor Assembly
Nut Pulley Attaching Torque to 25-40 lbs. ft.
Oil Gauge Wire.
Brace Assembly
Field Assy
Washer
f....UI ~r--~ .. J
~n:Ei\ !NO ;,t~;.:>n .\
:'ii
,'C
'nEW SII<JtiiiO I!ISTALLATION OP CO'<PIU:S SOIO

~ACK!T ON V!HlC U:S IQtiiPUD VITH f'OIIo'[R
i'l!:E'RDfO.
13. Bolt Bracket Attaching Torque to 30-45 lbs. ft.

15. Bolt Clutch Attaching Torque to 20-30 lbs. ft.
16. Screw Field Attaching Torque to 6-12 lbs. ft .
17. Bolt Bracket Attaching Torque to 20-32 lbs. ft.
18. Bolt Compressor Attaching Torque to 20-32 lbs. ft .
20. Bolt Idler Pulley Attaching Torque to 30-45 lbs. ft .
21. Stud Bracket Attaching Torque to 30-50 lbs. ft.
22. Nut Bracket Attaching Torque to 45-65 lbs. ft .
25. Stud torque to 30-50 lbs. ft.
26. Tag Compressor Identification
27. Clip Tag Attaching
FIG. 23- VB Compressor Installation

pressor. Then, remove all particles of
gasket,_dirt and foreign material from
the surface of the cylinder head and
cylinder face.
Be extremely careful not to

scratch or nick the mating surfaces
or any edges.
Installation
Compressor - Fig. 24
1. Apply a thin film of clean
refrigeration oil to each side of the
valve plate gasket (Fig. 24).
2. Place the new valve plate
gasket in position on the crankcase so
that the crankcase dowel pins go
through the dowel pin holes in the
gasket (Fig. 24).
3. Place the valve plate in position
on the cylinder so that the dowel
pins go through the dowel pin holes
(Fig. 24).
4. Apply a light film of clean refrigeration oil on each side of the
cylinder head gasket. Then, place the

gasket and cylinder head on the
cylinder with the dowel pins inserted
into the dowel pin holes in the
gasket and head.
5. Insert the two longer cap screws
in the two center holes of the cylinder
head. Then, insert the remaining cap
screws in the holes around the edge
of the cylinder head. The four 12
point head screws should be inserted
into the four holes closest to the
service ports.
6. Tighten all head cap screws
until they contact the head. Then
torque the two center screws to 15-23
ft-lb .
7. Tighten the remaining cap
screws in a pattern so that the cap
screws diagonally opposite each other
are evenly tightened to 15-23 ft-lbs.
After the cylinder head has been
installed 1/2 hour, retorque the head
bolts to 15-23 ft-lbs.
8. Inspect hose connections and
Schrader valves for damage. Replace

if necessary.
9. Check compressor oil level.
Add or remove oil as required.
10. Evacuate and recharge the
system.
CRANKSHAFT SEAL
Removal
1. Discharge the system, loosen
and remove the belt.
2. Remove the clutch and remove
the Woodruff key . Carefully remove
the secondary dust shield so as to
avoid marring the shaft.
3. Carefully remove all accumulated dirt and foreign material from
the seal plate and surrounding area
of the compressor, and position a
small drain pan beneath the seal plate.
4. Remove the seal plate cap
screws, and gently remove the plate
and gasket. Do not mar or scratch
the sealing surfaces, or the polished
shaft surface.
16-24
SUCTION
SERVICE VALVE
}dL T
, '
MOUNTING BOLTS
l ~,.,a-.....t..
DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE

SERVICE VALVE
0-RING
CYLINDER HEAD
VALVE PLATE ASSY.
VALVE PLAH
GASKET
OIL FILLER PLUG

GASKET
SEAL
KIT ASSY.
FIG. 24- Compressor Disassembled.
BEARING
INTERNAL
RETAINER
~ULLEY
ASSEMBLY
GREASE CATCHER
CLUTCH DRIV~
PLATE ASSEMBLY
FIG. 25- Clutch Disassembled.
PULLEY ASSEMBLY
5. Remove the carbon seal ring

and seal housing assembly from the
crankshaft. A disassembled view of
the crankshaft seal assembly is included in Fig. 24.
6. Clean all old gasket material
from the seal plate and the compressor. Make certain that the shaft,
the seal plate and the compressor
gasket surfaces are completely clean.
7. Check the face of the crankshaft front bearing journal in the
seal housing to make certain that
there are no nicks or burrs. Check the
crankshaft surface to be sure it is not
damaged. Check all parts of the seal
assembly to be sure that they are not
damaged.
8. Inspect the compressor internal
components for damage.
Installation
1. Wash the new seal assembly
components in clean refrigeration oil.
2. Position the seal over the end
of the shaft with the carbon ring
retainer facing out. Move the seal in
and out on the shaft a few times to
insure a good seal between the seal
and the shaft.
3. Push the seal all-the-way on
the shaft. Be sure that the seal drive
ring slots engage the drive pins on the
shaft bearing journal face.
4. Place the carbon ring (Fig. 24)
over the shaft and in the seal ring
retainer. The polished surface of the
carbon ring must face out and the
lugs must engage the ring retainer and
be fully seated.
5. Apply a light film of clean refrigeration oil on the matching faces
of the crankcase and seal cover plate.
Then, place the gasket in position
on the crankcase face.
6. Place the seal cover plate in
position (Fig. 24), with the polished
side facing the carbon ring. Then,
install the cap screws. Tighten the
cap screws evenly while turning the
crankshaft. Be sure that theclearance
between the crankshaft and the hole
in the seal cover plate is even all
around the shaft. If the clearance is
not equal all around the shaft, gently
tap the seal face into position until
the clearance is equal. Then, tighten
diagonally opposite cover plate cap
screws evenly to 7-13 ft-lbs.
7. Make certain that there are no
burrs or dirt on the compressor shaft.
Install the key and magnetic clutch
on the shaft.
8. Install the belt and adjust the
tension to specification.
9. Check the compressor oil level
(Section 3).
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDITIONING

10. Evacuate
system.
and
recharge the
CLUTCH
1. Loosen and remove the belt.

2. Energize the clutch and loosen
and remove the clutch mounting
bolt.
3. Install a 5/8-11 bolt in the

clutch drive shaft hole. With the
clutch still energized, tighten the
bolt to loosen the clutch from the
shaft, then remove the magnetic
clutch.
4. Carefully remove any burrs or
dirt that may be on the compressor
shaft. The shaft must be dry and
brightly polished. Install the clutch,
the clutch mounting bolt, and the
washer.
S. Energize the clutch, and torque
the bolt to specification.
6. Install and adjust the belt.
CLUTCH BEARING
When installing a new bearing,

extreme care must be taken to support
the bearing and the clutch assembly
so as not to place any pressure on the
balls of the bearing.
The following procedure should
be rigidly adhered to during bearing
replacement. Any exceptions due to
clutch design are noted. Refer to
Fig. 25 .
Removal
1. Remove the clutch assembly
from the compressor shaft as outlined
in the foregoing procedure.
2. With the clutch assembly face
down, remove the external bearing
retainer from the drive plate shaft.
3. Support the clutch, face down,
by the outer edge so as to clear the
drive plate. Insert a 5/8-11 inch bolt
through the drive plate shaft and
hand tighten the bolt.
4. Smoothly apply enough pressure on the bolt to free the shaft
from the bearing inner race and then
remove the drive plate assembly.
Before proceeding, check the drive
face plate for any excessive warping
or breakage. Replace the entire
clutch assembly if any damage is
evident.
S. Remove the internal bearing
retainer from the pulley assembly .
Support the pulley assembly, face
up, by the bearing bore making
certain that there is no interference
when the bearing is pressed out. With
a suitable plug, force the bearing out
of the pulley assembly by the inner
race. The plug should clear the metal
16-25
COMPRESSOR SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE LIMITS FT-LBS.
15-23
Cylinder Head
7-13
Front Seal Plate
Mounting Bolt
20-30
Oil Filler Plug
4-11
Clutch Mounting
20-30
Base Plate
14-22
Back Plate
9-17
140 lbs.
Drive Belt Tensicm
New
110lbs.
(Between Fan pulley and Used
90 lbs.
air conditioner compressor) minimum
A belt operated for a minimum of
10 minutes is considered a used belt.
* Refrigerant charge
32 ounces
Clutch current draw
3.75 amps
* When recharging the syst~m, add
28 ounces and check site glass. If
bubbles are evident, add Freon 12
up to 32 ounces.
COMPRESSOR 01 L CAPACITY
Vertical
10 fluid ounces
7/8 min. - 1-1/8 max.
Do not add oil if dipstick indicates
proper level of oil between minimum
and maximum. If dipstick is below
minimum level, add oil up to minimum oil level only.
ESA-M2C31-A
Compressor oil
grease catcher, but do not remove
the grease catcher from the pulley
assembly.
Installation
Before installing the bearing, be
sure that all bearing contact surfaces
are clean.
1. Support the pulley assembly
face down, near the bearing bore but
do not support it by the sides of the
pulley grooves as this may bend the
pulley assembly.
2. Press a new bearing into the
bearing bore by the outer race. Do
not press the bearing in by the inner
race. Pressure should be uniform and
in line with the axis of the bearing
bore. Replace the internal bearing
retainer.
3. Support the pulley assembly,
face up, by the bearing inner race .
Insert a 5/8-11 inch bolt, into the
front of the drive face plate and carefully press the shaft into the bearing
inner race, exerting pressure on the
bolt. Be certain that the shaft is in
line with the axis of the bearing bore.
4. Replace the external bearing
retainer onto the drive plate shaft.
Rotate the pulley relative to the drive
plate to make certain that there is
free rotation and that there is no
looseness of the assembly before
Horizontal
13/16 min.- 1-3/16 max.
installing the clutch onto the compressor.

S. Install the clutch on the compressor shaft.
c=)\
~~ SELECTAIRE
r Air Conditioning
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
I. MOVE TOP CONTROL LEVER TO
- MAX : (CLOSE R.H. AIR VENT)
2. MOVE TEMP CONTROL LEVER TO
-cooL:
3. SWITCH FAN TO -Hr SPEED.

4. ADJUST AIR OUTLET LOUVRES TO
DIRECT AIR UPWARDS FOR MAX
EFFICIENCY.
WHEN CABIN HAS COOLED TO
A SATISFACTORY LEVEL SET FAN
ON - MED - OR - LO - SPEED.
INTERIOR TEMPERATURE IS THEN
CONTROLLED BY ADJUSTING THE
TEMPERATURE LEVER .
NOTE : FOR
MAXIMUM COMFORT IN
HIGH HUMIDITY CONDITIONS USE
" FRESH " AIR MODE FOR SHORT
PERIODS ONLY.
HEATER:
I. SELECT " FLOOR " OR "SCREEN."
2. ADJUST "TEMP ' LEVER AND FAN
FOR DESIRED TEMPERATURE.
FOR QUICK WARM UP OR DEMIST
MOVE " TEMP" LEVER TO WARM
AND FAN TO " HI."
FIG.26
16-26
PART
16-3
RADIO & RADIO TAPE PLAYER
Section
Pare
1 Description
Diaposis and Testing
Pare

5 Tape Player ..................... ..
16-27
16-27
16-28
DESCRIPTION
Four models of radio receivers are

available manufacturw by Amalgamated Wireless (AUST-RALASIA) .
Ltd.
Model No. XA-18805-A is a deluxe
solid state press button 7 transistor
radio.
Model No. XA-18805-B is a deluxe
16-26
16-26
Section
solid state manually tuned 7 transistor

radio.
Model No. XA-18805-C is a super
fringe solid state push button 11
transistor radio.
Model XA-18805-D is a super
fringe solid state manually tuned 11
transistor radio.
Theaerial socker is located on a

short lead at the left hand rear of the
receiver and the aerial trimmer condenser on the top to the left hand
and rear of the receiver.
The speaker lead and socket is at
the rear of the receiver together with
the "A" lead which has its own fuse
(See Fig. 1).
The procedures given cover only

minor radio receiver troubles. Each
procedure either locates the minor
trouble or determines that the receiver
should have a major repair. The follo~
ing parts will be required to make the
radio trouble shooting tests:-
Noisy reception-when car in motion.

1. Loose or broken aerial cable.
2. Loose or defective aerial.
Spare fuses (8 ampere); Aerial and

lead (XL-18813-A, XL-18814-A);
Speaker (A.W.A. Part No. 50263W)
(Ford Part No. ARC 90C18808A);
Noisy reception--engiqe running.

1. Defective suppression equipment.
2. Capacitors not properly grounded.
3. Receive1 not properly grounded
to instrument panel.
4. Aerial not properly grounded to
fender.
RADIO DIAGNOSIS GUIDE

No reception. Check for the following:
1. Burned-out fuse.
2. Defective aerial or aerial cable.
3. Shorted speaker lead or defective
speaker. (Be sure to turn off the radio
receiver before removing the speaker.)
4. If radio still will not play, remove
the receiver for a major repair.
DISTURBED OR GARBLED
SOUND
Check for the following :
1. Voice coil rubbing on centre pole
piece of speaker magnet.
2. Torn speaker cone.
3. Foreign material on cone.
4. Bent or twisted speaker mounting.
5. If still distorted remove for major
repair.
NOISY OR ERRATIC RECEPTION

Noisy reception--engine not running.
1. Loose connections.
WEAK RECEPTION
1. Adjustment of the aerial trimmer.
2. Check aerial cable.

3. Radio nuts tight :
All mounting bolts must be tightened

securely in order to provide adequate
earthing for the radio.
4. Aerial tight :
5. Aerial Connections tight :
Aerial lead in cable must be firmly
inserted into the receptacle in the receiver.
6. Aerial Trimming :
The radio must be trimmed to match
the aerial at installation. This procedure is simple and quick , vitally important for good performance and the
most neglected of all the installation
steps.
7. General Care:
Many installations suffer due to generally careless work, causing rattles around
the speaker area, unsightly installations (cables dangling) and damage to
the aerial lead-in during installation.
8. If still weak, remove for major
repair.
PART 16-3- RADIO
16-27
ADJUSTMENJ AND OPERATION

OF PRESS BUnONS
Switch the receiver ON by turning

the front right hand knob clockwise.
Allow the receiver to operate for
about fifteen minutes before setting
buttons.
Any of the five buttons may be
set to any station within the tuning
range of the receiver.
AERIAL TRIMMER
1. Pull the desired press-button
out to ita fullest extent (approximately !" movement) to release

the locking mechanism.
2. Carefully tune in the selected
station V~~:th the Manual Tuninr
Control.
3. Press the button fully in (total
movement approximately j") to
lock mechanism.
Proceed in the above manner for
the remaining four buttons.
Five stations are now instantly
available and independent of Manual Tuning.
At any time the choice of preselected stations may be changed
by repeating the above simple procedure.
rJ
RADIO FEED WIRE
ILLUMINATION LAMP FEED
FIG. 1-Radio Connections-Typical

AERIAL RIMMER ADJUSTMENT
Switch the receiver ON and extend

the aerial to its maximum length.
Tune to the weakest station near the
15 calibration. With the volume
control set in a suitable position
adjust the aerial trimmer control
slowly in either direction until a peak

volume is reached (Fig. 1).
WARNING: These receivers are
for 12 Volt negative earth operations only. Connection to wrong
polarity will cause damare to the
receivers.
RADIO REMOVAL
Check radio operation and adjust

aerial trimmer.
1. Remove instrument cluster

housing .
2. Remove radio knobs and
surround.
3. Remove heater control mounting screws.
4. Remove the wing nut attaching radio to rear bracket.
5. Remove 3 mounting screws at
the front of the radio.
6. Withdraw radio and disconnect
the aerial, speaker and power leads.
Reverse removal operations for
installation.
AERIAL REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the oblong base outer
cover and remove the four mounting
screws.
2. List aerial from
fender.
3. Disconnect the lead from the
radio and feed the lead through the
cowl side panel as the aerial is being
removed.
NOTE: To aid in reassembly, it is
advisable to attach a piece of cord to
the aerial lead during removal.
If a piece of cord is not used
to draw the aerial lead through the
cowl side panel, it will be necessary

to remove the splash sealing panel
from inside the front wheel arch to
enable access to the aerial hole in
the cowl side panel.
SPEAKER REPLACEMENT
1. Unplug the apeaker cable from
the receiver.
2. Remove the wing nut and two

screws retaining the speaker to the instrument panel.
3. Remove the speaker.
4. Fit up the new speaker and replace
the wing nut and screws.
S. Check radio operation.
16-28
GROUP 16-VENTILATING AND HEATING
RADIO TAPE PLAYER UNIT

Installation of this unit is as shown
in Fig. 2. Refer to Fig. 3 for speaker
installation.
Removal of the unit from the
instrument panel is the same as for
single unit radio.
The playback head and capstan in
the tape player may accumulate tape
FIG. 2 - Radio and Stereo.
coating residue (oxide) as the tape

passes over the head.
This accumulation may need to
be periodically removed, as part of
normal maintenance, if it causes weak
or wavering sound. The playback
head can be cleaned with a cotton
swab, slightly moistened with alcohol.
To clean the capstan, trip the on-
off switch at the rear of the cartridge

slot with the eraser end of a pencil
and hold the alcohol-moistened swab
against the rotating capstan.
Excess alcohol on the swab

may run down the capstan and
damage the bearings. Do not
use carbon tetrachloride.
PART 16-3- RADIO
16-29
~---
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FIG. 3- Speaker Installation Sedan and Wagon - Typical
16-30
i
i I
II
I ,
WIR W t rHBJ...,M;k. SU!Ell.e'

7l:' BE CONN~CTED TO
T.RJ'AIIJI4L AttttHCD .:;.
FIG. 4- Stereo speaker in cowl side card.
BODY, DOORS AND
GROUP
WINDOWS
17
'"
PAGE
PART 17-1-
General Body Service
17-2
PART 17-2-
Front Sheet Metal Bumpers,

Exterior Mouldings
17-12
Doors, Windows, Tailgate and

Deck Lid
17-31
PART 17-3-
17-2
PART
17-1
GENERAL BODY SERVICE
Page
Section
1 Diagnosis and Testing ........ ...... ..
Dust and Water Leaks ...... ..
Body Sealers and Application ...
Page
Body Alignment
Paint Refinishing
4 HoistiRg
Door Windlace and Seals ....
17-4
17-4
17-8
17-10
17-10
DUST AND WATER LEAKS

Sealer locations should be considered when checking for dust or water
leaks. The forward motion of the car
creates a slight vacuum within the
body, particularly if a window or
ventilator is partially open. Any unsealed small opening in the lower
section of the body will permit air
to be drawn into the body. If dust is
present in the air, it will follow any
path taken by the air from the point
of entry into the passenger and luggage compartments. Opening the
ventilator air ducts will equalize
these pressures. Dust accumulates in
the rocker panel, and may eventually
work its way to the kick-up or the
rear body pillar, and follow the contour of the wheelhouse into the luggage compartment.
To eliminate dust leakage, determine the exact point at which the
EJ
17-2
17-2
17-2
17-3
Section
dust enters. The point of entry is

often deceptive in that the dust may
enter at one point, then follow the
passages formed by interior trim to
another point.
Under certain conditions, water
can enter the body at any point
where dust can enter. Any consideration of water leakage must take into
account all points covered under
dust leaks.
To determine the exact location of
a dust leak, it may be necessary to
remove the following trim from the
car:
1. Cowl trim panel.
2. Rear seat back and seat cush-
ion.
3. Luggage compartment
mats, and sdde trim panel.
floor
4. Scuff plates.
After removing the trim, the location of most leaks will be readily
evident. The entrance of dust is usually indicated by a pointed shaft of
dust or silt. Seal these leaks, and road
test the car on a dusty road to make
sure that all leaks are sealed.
After the road tests, check for indications of a dust pattern around the
door openings, cowl panel, lower
part of the quarter panel, and in the
luggage compartment.
Sometimes leaks can be located by
putting bright lights under the car,
with the above components removed,
and checking the interior of the
body joints and weld lines. The light
will show through where leaks exist.
A wide variety of sealers are used

by manufacturers. Since it would be
difficult to stock all of these sealers,
the all-purpose sealers described
have been selected for service
use. The method and points of application are given under each sealer
type.
A cement for all weatherstrips.
To repair leaks at windshield
and rear windows, apply a ribbon
of this clear cement and allow to
MOTORCRAFT MULTI-PURPOSE ADHESIVE

R1-43
MOTOR CRAFT
MULTI-PURPOSE
ADHESIVE
dry until tacky. Press surfaces together firmly, i.e., rubber to glass
or rubber to metal of body.
This cement is also very satis-
factory to use for cementing

weatherstrips to doors, bodies,
deck lids, windows, weathershields
etc.
PART 17-1- GENERAL BODY SERVICE

BODY SEALER
SPECIAL MULTI-PURPOSE ADHESIVE
R124 GREY
R143
17-3
R125 BLACK
This Sealer is semi-elastic and is
fast drying. It will not run and can
be cleaned up with solvent if necessary. It is packed inllt2lb. cartons
and is either black or grey coloured.
MOTORCRAFT
MU L T 1-PU RPOSE
ADHESIVE
Multi-purpose cement is a quick drying, strong adhesive cement for general

purposes . It is suitable for cementing rubber to metal, rubber to cardboard or
wood or rubber to rubber.
Surface to be cemented must be cleaned of all grease, dust and mould com_pound. To be assured of a clean surface, wash thoroughly with a cloth moistened
with clean petrol or cleaner's Naptha.
Cement is applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry for a few minutes, then
pressed together firmly.
If used according to directions, this white coloured cement gives a clean,
satisfactory result.
These Sqlers are used for semisealing jobs such as are found in the
floor pan, wheel houses, dash panel,
rocker panel, door opening, quarter
panels and drip mouldings. It is also
used to seal trim panel and outside
moulding clip holes and for windshield
and back window installation.
The grey coloured sealer is mainly
used for general purpose operations
as described. but the black can be
used as an alternative as deemed
necessary . The black sealer is especially suitable for windshield and back
window servicing or when paintwork
etc. is of darker colours.
II
LUBE STICK
R1-26 (Dry Lubricant)
Prevents squeaks, rust and sticking.
Invaluable as a dry lubricant on car door dovetails, locks, latches, striker

plates. Just clean the surface to be lubricated and apply a thin film- only a
little is required.
Also has a lot of domestic home uses--cupboard doors, window slides etc.
BODY ALIGNMENT
Servicing the unitized body should

present no unusual difficulties or
necessitate additional equipment
other than that required for the
conventional frame and body repair.
The application of heat and the use
of heavy-duty jacks must be carefully controlled because of the difference in the gauge of the metal
in the sub-frame of a unitized body
&nd the stress points developed in a
single welded unit construction. It
is possible to pull damaged areas
back into alignment with the use

of light-weight jacks and hydraulic
equipment without heating the
metal.
Rough out badly damaged areas
before taking measurements for
squaring up a body. If necessary,
remove the glass from the damaged
area to prevent damage. In severe
cases reinforcement brackets and
other inner construction may have
to be removed or cut to permit
restoration of the outer shell and

pillars without excessive strain on
the parts. Straighten, install, and secure all such parts in place before
attempting to align the body.
In cases of severe or sharp bends,
it may be nece'lsary to use heat.
Any attempt to cold-straighten a
severely bent bracket may cause
ruptures of the welds and may also
cause cracks in the bent part. Never
heat the area more than a dull red.
17-4
GROUP 17-BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
CHECKING BODY FOR

MISALIGNMENT
To align or square up a body, take
two opposite diagonal measurements
between pillars. Use a measuring
tram for these measurements. Take
the measurements between reference
points such as crease lines or weld
joints which are diagonally opposite
each other on the two pillars being
measured. Since all measurements
should be made from the bare metal,
remove all interior trim from the
checking points.
In some cases, it is difficult to obtain proper body alignment when
repairing a body that is damaged
on both sides. In these cases, horizontal and vertical measurements
can he taken from a body of the
same body.. style. Once these b;~sic
dimensions are taken and established
on the damaged body. alignment can
be made by diagonal measurements
taken from points on the two pillars.
Do not attempt to correct any
serious misalignment with one jacking operation. This is particularly
true if other sections of the body
also require aligning. Align each
section proportionately until the
proper dimensions are obtained.
Door openings are checked in the
same manner as the body. Horizontal, vertical. and diagonal checking
points are established on all four
sides of the door opening that is
being measured.
CHECKING UNDERBODY FOR
MISALIGNMENT
The dimensions of the underbody
must be restored in the repair of
major body qamage, to provide correct front and rear wheel geometry
(Fig. 1). All the dimensions are
detailed to the centre line of existing holes in the underbody assembly.
Once the frame and suspension
members are aligned, the balance
of the repair can be performed.
PAINT REFINISHING
Acr~ lic Enamels. Acrylic enamels
exhibit better hardness. mar resistance and gloss retention in metallic
colors than the ordinary enamels.
Acrylic enamels also possess the
property of good polishability.
Following are recommended repair procedures for acrylic enamels:
Repair By Polishing. Repair of
minor dirt or fallout. sags, mars.
scratches. dry spray. overspray and
orange peel can be accomplished by
machine or hand oolishing or by
both sanding and polishing without

the necessity of repainting. Repairs of
this type should apply to an entire
panel while spot repairs should be
attemped on.Jy in isolated areas.
The suggested polish repair procedure consists of:
1. Remove the defect hy oil sanding with 600 grit paper, using water
or mineral spirits as a lubricant.
2. Apply a white or light colored

medium grit machine polishing
compound to the painted surface
with a brush.
3. Polish the entire panel surface
using an I 850 rpm wheel and a carpet pad (approximately %-inch nap)
or lambswool pad.
4. Buff the surface with a clean
lambswool pad.
Normally. acrylic enamels do not
need polishing to improve their gloss;
however, the foregoing procedure
can he used to restore the original
luster to the film after weathering,
or to ill}prove the surface smoothness of the finish on the entire car.
Repair By Repainting. Acrylic
enamels can be repaired by repainting with either conventional air drying or low bake enamels, or with
acrylic lacquers. When repainting
metallic colors, it is recommended
that acrylic lacquer be used since a
better color match can be obtained;
both the original finish and the repair can be polished to provide the
same luster, and the air dry acrylic
repair lacquer will provide better
durability in service than air dry
enamels. Do not use Nitrocellulose
lacquers for exterior repairs.
When using any one of the three
types of repair materials over acrylic
enamel, remove all traces of wax,
polish or grease with a good silicone remov~r. It is extremely important that a thorough sanding
of the original finish be accomplished using No. 400 grit paper.
Care should be exercised to ensure
that all surfaces; including edges
and areas adjacent to applied
mouldings, are thoroughly sanded
in order to provide adhesion of
the repair top coat. Areas saaded
to the base metal (cut through)
should be treated with an acid
cleaner. Follow the directions of
the supplier as stated on the container.
After sanding, proceed with the
application of a primer surfacer reduced according to the supplier's
recommendations to any bare metal
spots that have been exposed. After
the recommended air dry time, sand

the primer surfacer with No. 400
grit paper before application of the
repair material. The lacquer or
enamel used should be reduced as
recommended by its supplier.
PAINT DEFECI'S AND REPAIR
PROCEDURES
Listed here are some of the abnormal paint conditions that may be
encountered (Fig. 2). It is very important to identify the paint conditio.:t correctly so that the proper
repair procedure may be followed.
For each of the following paint conditions described, the recommended
repair procedure will be indicated.
BLISTERING
Blistering is the formation of bubbles or pin points on the surface of
the finished work. Unless inspected
by a magnifying glass, this condition
is very hard to identify. In some instance;, this complaint may be confused with dirt in the paint. To
verify blistering, prick the suspected
areas, and note whether a hole exists
under the bubble. This condition is
caused by rust, moisture, or oil between the coats, metal not properly
cleaned, or uneven temperatures
between the metal and' the paint
being sprayed.
Acrylic Enamel. Repair by repainting (color coat) . Priming procedure must first be followed if
defect is due to poor metal preparation.
CHECKING
Line checking has the appearance
of thin, straight lines criss-crossing
each other. These lines may be from
one-half inch to four inches or longer, increasing in length as the finish
ages.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel.
(Color coat-primer if damaged.)
CHIPPING AND
STONE BRUISES
Chipping occurs when the surface
of the finish coat of paint has been
broken by a sharp blow, and small
p,articles of paint have flaked off.
Frequently, stone bruises result in
chipping.
Paint may be spotted if in isolated
areas. (Prime to be bare metal.)
CRACKING
Cracking is evidenced by the
paint curling. Frequently, cracking
starts at the edge of the panel. This
is caused by poor mixing of paint
or by temperature changes during
the various painting stages.
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83 64 wAGON UTE & VAN
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MOUNTING HOLE
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FRONT IUHI'EII
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72 .71
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DIAGONAL DIMENSIONS MUST &E EQUAL

DIMENSIONS UNDER too HAVE A
VARIATION OF t 06"EXCEPT AS
NOTED BY AN ASTERISK.
DIMENSIONS OVER 100~ HAVE A
VARIATION OF t 0.12~
*VARIATION OF ~ OQZ" ALLOWED
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SHOWING LOCATING
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V1
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-6
CROWFOOT lNG
RANDOM BLISTERS
PITS AND POPUPS
SCRATCHES
.. .:.....
....
PATTERN BLISTERS
DIRT IN PAINT
WATER SPOTTING
CRATERS
..
. ..
. ..
.. ,
';'
..
;~ o
LINE CHECKING
MILDEW
THIN PAINT
INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT
OFF COLOR
RUNS AND SAGS
ORGANIC FALLOU T
...
CHIPPING
BRUISES
CRACKING
"~RANGE
PEEL
PEELING
OVERSPRAY
N -1471 - A
FIG. 2-Paint Defects

(Prime if both color and primer
cracking.)
CROW FOOTING
Crow footing may be described
as small lines branching off from
a point in all directions and giving
the appearance of a crow's foot.
Crow footing is usually caused by
spraying a second coat before the
first coat is dry, by spraying an excessively thick coat, or by thinners
which evaporate too fast.
(Color coat.)
DIRT IN PAINT
Patches where dirt appears are
sometimes confused with blistering.
To vertify the condition, prick the
suspected areas, and note whether
there is foreign material under the
surface.
procedure will be effective in most
cases. (Color coat.)
MILDEW
Mildew growth which occurs
along radial lines is most commonly found in a very dark gray or
black color.
Acrylic Enamel. Repair by polishing.
OFF-COLOR
The term off-color is applied to
adjacent areas on which the colors
do not match . It may also appear
when making spot repairs.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel
if polishing does not correct condition (Color coat.)
ORANGE PEEL
Orange peel is a term used to
describe an uneven, mottled appearance on the paint surface. This is
usually caused by improper thinning of the paint.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel if
polishing does not correct condition.
(Color coat.)
OVERSPRAY
Overspray is evidenced by a
rough, dull finish in the area surrounding the paint repair.
PEELING
Peeling occurs when large areas
of the finish or primer coat separate
from the metal or prime coat. This
is usually caused by wax , grease,
rust or oil under the paint. Do not
confuse with orange peel.
PITS AND POf-UPS
Pits and craters may be ident ified
by the appearance of small round
depressions in the paint. These may

be caused by not allowing the first
coat ol dry sufficiently before applying the second coat or from failure
to remove silicone polishes before
repainting.
Acrylic Enamel. First use polish
repair procedure refinish panel if
necessary. (Color coat.)
THIN PAINT
The primer will show through
the fini sh coat as a result of an excessively thin color coat, or application of the color coat before the
surface is dry.
(Color coat.)
RUNS AND SAGS
The . uneven collections of paint
on the finish surface are referred to
as runs and sags. The collections
may appear in the form of tear
drops or sagging lines. Usually these
lines are quite soft and sometimes
the y may be wrinkled . This is usually
caused by over-application of paint
or hesitation in the stroke of the
gun .
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repai r procedure.
SCRATCHES
Scratches are thin marks or tears
that may partiall y or completely
penetrate the surface of the finish
coat of paint.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure for shallow penetration . Refinish panels to correct conditions of deep penetration.
SPOT DISCOLORATION
This is evidenced by brown spots
or stains on the surface. Stains or
spots can be caused by road tar, acid
or alkali-bearing water from the
streets.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure.
WATER SPOTTING
Water spotting is evidenced by a
milky pattern where water drops
have fallen .
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure.
INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT
IndustJ;ial fallout is the result
of particles being exhausted into
the air by the various processes
of heavy industry, in areas where
there is a concentration of such
industry.
17-7
Industrial fallout particles appear

to the eye as tiny rust coloured
dots on the paint film and the surface feels rough to the touch. Some
of the particles have excellent adhesion and are difficult to remove.
However, the following procedure
has proven effective in the removal
of this fallout .
1. First, wash the car with car
wash compound to remove loose
soil. Rinse well and examine painted
surfaces for iron base fallout particles. If there is a significant
quantity of fallout not removed by
ordinary washing, the acid treatment should be used. All cracks,
ledges, grooves, etc., where fallout
has accumulated should be cleaned
by wiping or by an air blow off.
2. Dilute 1 part hydrochloric acid
(commercial grade) to 100 parts of
warm water and add one or two
tablespoonsful of a non-alkaline detergent such as car wash compound
to every gallon of the diluted acid
mixture. Other neutral detergents
are permissible, but all alkaline
compounds should be avoided. This
acid detergent solution must be
prepared and kept in a clean NONMETALLIC container.
Apply this solution liberally to
all affected surfaces of the car
with a large sponge. U se a broad
wiping stroke and keep the work
completely wet for about fifteen
minutes, or until the operator can
no longer feel any surface roughness or even isolated gritty particles with bare or gloved finger
tips. If this is not done thoroughly
rust stain may soon re-develop.
Again, it is most important that
the work be kept wet, since a
dry acid residue is not active in
loosening fallout.
Be sure that the entire acid
cleaning procedure is performed in
a sheltered area so that the work
will be kept as cool as possible,
to prevent rapid evaporation of
water and consequent surface drying. DO NOT WORK IN THE
SUN. Even a strong breeze makes
it difficult to keep the job wet over
a large area.
3. Rinse the job with clean water.
This must be done very thoroughly
to prevent possible corrosion.
CAUTION : No traces of acid
should be left on any surface.
Bright trim parts, particularly anodized aluminium and stainless steel
may be stained by prolonged con-
17-8
tact with the cleaning solution.

Even painted areas can be spotted by prolonged exposure. It is
also important to keep the acid
cleaner solution from leaking inboard because some fabrics might
be bleached or discoloured by the
same.
NOTE: If the fallout is not completely removed or is deeply imbedded in the paint film, cleaning
with the acid detergent mixture
must be repeated. This may be
aided by using a fine scrubbing brush,
possibly a nylon bristle type. Just
make sure that the light scrubbing
required does not scratch the paint.
It is also helpful sometimes to
brisklv rub the work with a mixture of equal parts of the acid
cleaner and a cleaner wax polish,
using a piece of heavy towelling.
Again thorough_ water rinsing is
extremely important.
EJ
The use of Oxalic Acid to remove

metallic particles derived from Industrial Fallout has been investigated. The use of Oxalic Acid is not
recommended for uncontrolled use
by the public. This acid is extremely
poisonous ( 1 gram of solid acid being
a fatal dose for h\lmans).
The Department of Public Health
advise that a 5% solution is safe if
normal precautions are observed
but it is felt that there are more
suitable alternatives. Hydrochloric
Acid will achieve the same result
as Oxalic Acid. This acid is corrosive
but not toxic.
ORGANIC FALLOUT
Organic fallout may result from
parking cars under trees or from
the air under certain atmospheric
conditions.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish damaged panels. (Color coat and

primer.)
INTERIOR PAINT REPAIRS

The proper matching of colors
can be obtained if the following
procedures are carefuly adhered to:
1. Clean the surface to be painted
with wax and silicone remover.
2. Feather-edge the damaged area
with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper.
(Prime all areas of bare metal with
M-6J-12S Primer.)
3. Mix the paint per instructions
on the can and spray several light
coats.
Allow the paint to become tacky
between coats.
4. Spray the entire area sparingly
with B7 A-645-S Lacquer Leveler
which will blend the repaired area
with existing painted surfaces.
FLOOR PAN PLUGS

AND GROMMETS
The floor-pan plugs seal the various access holes. If any plugs are
missing or improperly installed, a
dust or water leak may result. This
also applies to the grommets used
on the dash panel. When dust or
water leaks are evident, these plugs
and grommets should be checked
for proper installation.
DRAIN HOLES
Drain holes or valves located on
the underside of each rocker panel,
quarter panel. and door should be
cleared periodically.
BODY MAINTENANCE
Regular body maintenance preserves the car's appearance and reduces the cost of maintenance during the life of the car. The following steps are suggested as a guide
tor regular body mamtenance:
1. Vacuum the interior thoroughly and wash the car.
2. Check all openings for water
leaks, and seal where necessary.
3. Cement all loose weatherstrips
which are still usable.
4. Replace all door and deck lid
weatherstrips which are unfit for
service.
5. Apply silicone lubricant to the
weatherstripping.
6. Replace all cracked, fogged,
or chipped glass.
7. Align the hood, doors, and
deck lid if necessary.
8. Inspect the windshield wiper
blades and replace them if necessary.
9. Tighten the sill plate and garnish moulding screws.
10. Clean the seats, door trim
panels, and head lining.
11. Touch up or paint chipped
or scratched areas.
12. Drain holes located on the
underside of each rocker panel,
quarter panel, and door, should be
cleared periodically.
RATTLE ELIMINATION
Most rattles are caused by a loose
bolt or screw. Foreign objects such
as outs, bolts, or small pieces of
body d'!adener in the door wells,
pillars and quarter panels are often
the source of rattles. Door wells can
be checked by carefully striking the
underside of the door with a rubber
mallet. The impact made by the
mallet will indicate if loose objects
are in the door well.
In the event that tightening the
bolts and sccews, located on such
assemblies as the doors, hood, and
deck lid does not eliminate the rattles, the trouble is probably caused
by misalignment. If this is the case,
follow the adjustment and alignment
procedures for these assemblies.
Rattles and squeaks are sometimes

caused by weatherstripping and antisqueak material that has slipped out
of position. Apply additional cement
or other adhesive, and install the
material in the proper location to
eliminate this difficulty.
EXTERIOR CLEANING
The outside finish should be frequently washed. Never wipe the
painted surface with a dry cloth.
Dusting the finish when it is dry
tends to rub the dust and dirt into
the baked enamel, and leaves a
sandpaper effect on the surface. To
keep the finish bright and attractive
and eliminate the necessity of using
polish, wash the car whenever it has
accumulated a moderate amount of
dirt and road salt.
The bright metal parts of the car

require no special care. Periodic
cleaning will preserve the beauty
and life of these finishes. Wash
with clear water or if the parts
are very dirty use Autolite car
wash. Using a clean soft cloth or
a sponge and water, rinse and wipe
the parts dry. Do not scour aluminium or chrome finished parts
with steel wool or polish them with
products containing abrasives. A
Autolite. Polish will provide excellent protection for all bright metal
parts.

INTERIOR CLEANING
Use a vacuum cleaner to remove

dust and dirt from the upholstery or
REMOVAL OF SURFACE STAINS

FROM VINYL TRIM MATERIALS
Many warranty claims are received

at Head Office Service for replacemertt of stained body trim.
From examination of displaced
trims returned from the field, it has
been found that in many cases the
stains have been further aggravated
by using incorrect removal agents
and therefore staining the trims to a
greater degree than the original stain.
The following procedures basically
detail the removal agents for stained
vinyl trims and should be used prior
to replacement being contemplated.
Ballpoint Pen Inks:
First mix parts of fresh Calcium

Chloride* and Fuller's Earth {both
available at your local chemist). Now
add a few drops of methylated
spirits and mix with a knife into a
fairly thick paste. Add more methylated spirits as necessary.
Next, apply the paste with a knife
along the ink stains. Wait for it to
dry, then remove it with a damp
cloth. Finally wash the affected area
over with a wet cloth and dry with a
clean cloth. Should the stain still
remain, repeat the cleaning procedure.
If the removal of the stain leaves
the surface dull, wipe it over with
cotton wool moistened with glycerine.
Do not use furniture or floor polishes.
* Special Note:
Use only calcium chloride. Chloride
of lime is too drastic as a cleaning
agent and can permanently damage
the fabric.
Lipsticks, Shoe Polishes, Fatty &
Greasy Stains:
With a dry rag, remove as much of

the stain as possible. Take care not
to spread the staining substance over
17-9
floor covering. Vinyl and woven plastic trim that is dusty can usually be
cleaned with a damp cloth. Do not
use cleaning materials containing
kerosene, naptha, toluol, xylol 10,
lacquer thinners, cellulose acetate,

butyl cellosolve, carbon tetrachloride, body polish, battery acid, antifreeze, gasoline, motor oils or other
type lubricants.
the surface. Now gently wipe the

affected area with a cotton cloth
moistened with methylated spirits or
mineral turps. To complete the cleaning process, wash over with warm,
soapy water.
hot water, then allow it to dry

thoroughly. Now wipe over with a
clean cloth moistened with methylated spirits. In this case, do not use
warm, soapy water, as this sets the
stain.
Battery Acid:
Ice Cream:
Battery acid is a severe corrosive

agent. It may destroy the surface
of your fabric or permanently stain
it. If you have household ammonia
handy, apply it at once to the acid.
This will neutralise it. Now wash
over with warm, soapy water. Always
dilute the acid quickly. If ammonia
is not readily available, use a normal
household detergent. These usually
contain a neutralising agent.
Try using warm, soapy water at

first. If this is not successful, wash
the affected area repeatedly with
very hot soapy water, then rinse with
cold water. Now wipe over with a
clean cloth moistened with methylated spirits, followed by warm, soapy
water. Ice cream is a very difficult
stain to remove if left to harden, so
quick action is important here.
Blood:
A tar stain is one of the most

stubborn stains, virtually impossible
to remove if left for any length of
time. Quick action with a little
kerosene or mineral turps on a clean
cloth is recommended here.
Cold water will remove blood

stains if used immediately. If marks
persist, use household ammonia, or
a starch paste.
Chocolate:
Remove the excess chocolate with

a spoon and wipe over with a cloth
moistened with methylated spirits,
then wash with warm soapy water.
Toffee:
Scrape the stained surface with the

edge of a spoon and wash with very
hot water. Then wipe over with a
cloth moistened with methylated
spirits. Then wash with warm soapy
water.
Chewing Gum:
Set the gum with an ice cube,

then scrape with the edge of a spoon .
Wipe over with methylated spirits
(as above) and finish with warm,
soapy water.
Liquor & Fruit Stains:
Wash the stained area with very
Tar:
Paint:
While the paint is still wet, or

just set, apply mineral turps with a
clean cloth. Now wash over with
warm, soapy water. Again, immediate
action is essential, as dry paint cannot
be removed without damaging the
surface of the fabric.
IMPORTANT:
You should never use abrasive
cleaners or cleaners containing solvents (other than those mentioned
above). Neither should you use steel
or copper wool. These can permanently damage the surface of your
fabric and spoil its appearance.
Such cleaners as "dissol", "Plastic
Devil" and "Vyno" are very effective
if used strictly in accordance with
the instructions provided with them.
17-10
E]
HOISTING VEHICLE
The unitized body-frame construction requires special precautions and

procedures when the car is jacked
up or hoisted. In some cases, special hoist adapters must be used as
recommended by specific hoist
manufacturers.
Refer to the Owner's Manuals
when using the jack supplied with
the car.
DRIVE-ON TYPE HOIST
To prevent possible damages to
the underbody, do not drive the
car onto the drive-on type hoist
without first checking for possible
interference between the upright
flanges of the hoist rails and the
underbody. Should there be interference, the hoist flanges should be
modified as necessary and/ or the
approach ramps built up to provide
the needed clearance.
REAR
To prevent damage to the shock

absorbers, the rear forks must contact the axle at points as near as
practicable to the differential housing. Carefully raise the rear post
and check the position of the fork
(Fig. 4).
FRONT RAIL TYPE , FORK LIFT

OR F LOO R J A C K CO NTAC T A REA
least 12 square inches of underbody

area. Figs. 3 and 4 show recommended contact points for the hoist
pads.
FLOOR JACK
When a stationary floor jack or a
roll jack is to be used, there are
several specific recommended points
of contact. Either side of the car
may be raised at the front by jack
contact at the lower arm strut connection. Either side of the front
end of the car may also be raised
by jack pressure on the front crossmember, or on the crossmember
to which the stabilizer is co!'loected.
RAIL TYPE-FREE WHEELING

HOIST
FRONT
The front adapters or hoist plates
must be carefully positioned in contact with the lower suspension arms
to assure safe, accurate lifting.
REAR
The hoist adapters must be positioned carefully under the rear axle
to prevent damage to the shock absorbers when the car is raised. The
hoist rails should be raised slowly
and the position of the adapters
checked.
FORK LIFT HOIST
FRONT
FRONT FRAME CO N TACT AREA
M1111 .A
FIG. 3-Front Hoist

Contact Areas
TWIN POST
To assure safe hoisting, the front

post adapters must be positioned
carefully to contact the centre of
the lower suspension arms (Fig. 3).
FRAME CONTACT HOIST

Frame contact hoist adapters are
necessary to lift the car. The hoist
adapter pads should each cover at
BODY-DOOR WINDLACE
AND SEAL
The installation of door windlace

and weather seals is shown in Fig. 5.
To remove the combined windlace/
seal remove the screws attaching the
moulded ends to the door frame and
remove the windlace/seal from the
flange .
FIG. 4-Rear Hoist

Contact Areas
PART 17-1- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
FIG. 5- Door Weather Strips and Seals
17-J 1
17-12
PART
17-2
FRONT SHEET METAL, BUMPERS,

EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
Page
Section
1 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs
Hood Adjustments ... .... ... . ... . ....
Hood Lock Adjustments .. .. .... . .. .
17-12
17-12
17-12
2 Removal and Installation .... .... ....
17-12
Section
Page
Hood Hinge
Radiator Grille
Front Bumper ... .
Rear Bumper
Exterior Mouldings
Instrument Panel
Sun Roof
17-12
17-12
17-12
17-16
}7-16
17-19
17-17
DIN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

3. Tighten the lock retaining
screws. Open and close the hood
several times to be sure that it
latches securely.
HOOD ADJUSTMENTS
The hood is provided with fore

and aft, vertical, and side-to-side
adjustments (Fig. 1). These directions
refer to the position of the hood
when it is fully lowered. The enlarged bolt slots in the hinge at
the hood provide the side-to-side
and fore and aft adjustments. The
slots in the hinge at the fender
apron provide vertical adjustment.
Hood bumpers, located on the top
left and the top right surface of
the radiator support, can be adjusted up and down to provide a level
surface alignment of the hood panel
with the front fenders
HOOD LINE ADJUSTMENT
1. Adjust the hood bump stops

so that there is no bump stop to
hood contact.
2. Adjust the hood lock dowel so
that an even bonnet line is obtained.
3. Adjust the bump stops so that
they just contact the hood.
HOOD LOCK ADJUSTMENTS
FIG. 1-Hood Hinge

Installation
1. With the hood open loosen the

hood lock retaining screws (Fig. 2).
2. Move the hood lock mechanism as required to align it with the

Jock striker.
EJ
4. Close the hood and check for

correct lock operation.
the bump stops be used to
obtain hood line adjustment.
HOOD HINGE
1. Prop the front of the hood in

the open position and cover the
fender and cowl panel.
2. Remove the hinge-to-hood retaining bolts, the retaining bolts at
the fender apron and cowl (Fig. 1),
and remove the hinge.
3. Position the hood hinge on the
body and install the hinge retaining
bolts.
4. Adjust the hood for proper fit.
RADIATOR GRILLE AND

SURROUND- FALCON &
FAIR LANE
The grille is a one-piece plastic

moulding and is retained bv eight
screws. To remove the grille frrst
remove the screws, (~ at each head
lamp surround and 2 in the centre)
and remove the grille forward.
FRONT BUMPER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the front bumper arm

to fender support brackets left and
right hand sides.
2. Remove the bumper left and

right inner and outer arm-to-frame
side rail retaining bolts and remove
the bumper assembly (Fig. 3).
3. Remove the bumper inner and
outer arms from the bumper.
4. Remove the licence plate.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the licence plate on the

new bumper.
2. Install the bumper inner and
outer arms on the new bumper using
spacers and washers as shown in Fig. 3.
I
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FIG. 2 - Installation Hood Lock
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17-13
17-14
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PART 17-2-FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS

3. Position the bumper assembly
to the car and loosely install the
bumper arm-to-frame side rail retaining bolts .
4. Align the bumper assembly and
tighten the bumper arm-to-frame side
rail retaining bolts.
5. Replace the front bumper arm
to fender support brackets.
REAR BUMPER
REMOVAL WAGON
1. Remove the screws retaining
the license plate lamp assembly to
the rear bumper.
2. Remove the rear license plate.
3. Remove the eight bumper armto-frame retaining bolts and remove
the bumper assembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Transfer the rear bumper arms
and rubber bumper to the new
bumper.
2. Position the bumper assembly

on the car and install the bumper
arm-to-frame retaining bolts.
3. Position the license plate lamp
assembly to the bumper and install
the retaining bolts.
4. Install the license plate.
17-15
3. Remove the bumper stone

shield and brackets as an assembly.
4. Transfer brackets, stone shield
and licence plate to new bumper.
5 . Position the bumper assembly
on the car and install the bumper
bracket to frame bolts.
6. Align bumper bar with vehicle .
Tighten mounting bolts and install
licence plate lamp .
EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
Before removing the exterior
mouldings, it should be determined
by the type of retainer used whether
a respective door, quarter or luggage
compartment trim panel must first
be removed to provide access (Figs.
9 through 12).
REAR BUMPERETTE
REMOVAL UTE & VAN
1. Remove
bumperette outer
support bracket nuts.
2. Remove main support bracket
bolts to frame ( 4 from beneath
vehicle) Fig. 5.
3. Transfer brackets and pad to
new bumperette.
4. Position bumperette assembly
on the vehicle, install the bumper
bracket to frame bolts.
5. Align bumperettes to vehicle.
Assemble bumperette outer support
and tighten mounting bolts and nuts.
REAR BUMPER
REMOVAL SEDAN
1. Remove the licence plate lamp
from the bumper.
2. Remove the 6 bolts bumper
support .bracket to body (2 . from
beneath vehicle I from inside luggage
compartment each side) Fig. 4 .
e
J
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FIG. 4- Installation Rear Bumper Ute/Van
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FIG. 5 -Installation Rear Bumper Sedan

Instructions for Repair and
Adjustment of Sun Roof.
1. Adjustment of panel alignment:
(a) Front, left and right: Release
lining frame at the front and
push back. Loosen the fixing
screws for the slide at the front
end. Adjust the milled nuts and
re-tighten the fixing screws.
(b) Rear, left and right: Loosen the
bolt on the closing mechanism.
The bolt can be moved to the
desired position in the slot in
the closing mechanism by turning the adjusting screw to the
left or right. Re-tighten the nuts
on the bolt.
2. Panel rises on one side only:
Examine the ramp in the drainage
channel in the frame to see whether
it is properly aligned with the lifting
element at the rear end of the panel.
To do this, slide the panel back
completely. The point where the
lifting element makes contact with
the ramp can be clearly seen on the
rearward slope of the ramp. Adjust
the ramp and if necessary, the lifting
element on the panel, so that working
point of the lifting element lies at the
middle point of the ramp.
shorter than the original). Reinstall

parts and panel, adjust the cable
so that the forward edge of the panel
is parallel with the forward edge of
the roof aperture. If necessary
adjust as indicated in paragraph 3.
5. The joints of the cable

slides are out of alignment
(guide rail, corner and connector
rails and cable box) and are
jamming the cable drive: Loosen
the screws holding the guide rails,
corner and connector rails and cable
box a few turns. Retighten the
screws one by one, continually
activating the drive mechanism.
Where necessary realign those points
where resistance is felt.
Checking for alignment of the ramp
and lifting elements (see paragraph 2).
If one cable needs replacing,
replace both to assure a parallel
travel of the roof panel.
4. Damaged drive cable includes

remove and replace panel and push
back lining.
Remove the lining frame, unscrew
front slides, remove closing mechanism from the skid at the rear,
lift out the outer roof panel.
Remove the cover of the drive
mechanism box, spring plate over
drive pinion, connector rails and
upper parts of the corner rails. Pull
out the cable with the rear slide from
the guide rail. Install a new cable,
lubricated with grease of molybdenum disulphate. (Replacement
cables may be longer but never
LUBRICATION
During cable replacement, lubricate the cables with petroleum jelly

or vaseline. It is not necessary to
lubricate the top surface of the
guide rail covers or the slide tracks.
Periodically, clean off any residue
that may accumulate on the guide
rail covers.
DRAIN TUBES
During regular maintenance check

to ensure the drainage holes at the
front corners of the roof panel frame
are open and free of foreign material.
If the drains are plugged , they may
be cleaned with an air hose (low
pressure) or with a flexible wire.
If the drain tubes can not be
cleaned in this manner, they must be
replaced.
When cleaning with an air hose,
use low pressure so as not to damage
or detach the plastic tubes.
LOWER FRONT GUIDE CONNECTIGI

UPPER FRONT GUIDE CONNECT!""
CABLE DRI VE HOJSING COVE R
C~~~ r~HOJS=ING=====
UPPER ELBOW
GUIDE
''
3. Panel does not run true:

Close the roof. Determine which
side of the panel jams. Open the
roof again. Remove alloy cover of
drive mechanism. Lift out the
spring plate over the pinion. To pull
forward the right hand side of the
sliding roof panel, lift the cable at
the front (looking in the direction of
travel) of the pinion, pull it one or
more teeth to the left and replace.
Note: Do not accidentally move
the panel while the cable is off the
pinion. Slide back the spring plate
over the drive pinion. Screw back
the drive mechanism cover.
17-17
F ROHT SLIDE
. . - - - - ASSEMBLY
.,..f!'
DRI VE CAB LE RETAI NING CUP
REAR SLIDE
AHOCABLE-.............
ASSEMBLY
SLIDE RETAINER
REAR STOP
GUIDE RAIL _ _ . . .
FIG. 6- Sun Roof Sliding Panel- Disassembled View- Typical
17-18
FIG. 7 - Drive Cable and Housing Installation - Typical
FIG. 8 - Removal and Installation of Rear Slide and Cable- Typical
PART 17-2-FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS

INSTRUMENT PANEL
REMOVAL
1. Remove the crash pad as outlined in Group 18-1.
2. Remove the glove box and door.
3. Remove air-conditioner/heater/
ventilation ducts from instrument
panel.
4. Remove instrument cluster
housing
5. Remove the instrument cluster.

6. Remove heater /air-conditioner
control.
7. Remove radio .
8 Unclip the wiring harness from
the instrument panel.
9. Remove two screws, hand
brake handle to instrument panel.
10. Remove brace attachment bolts
at the instrument panel.
II. Remove bolts attaching the
instrument panel to cowl side
brackets.
12. Release the steering column

upper support to allow access to the
bolt instrument panel to pedal
support.
13. Remove the instrument panel
from the vehicle, Fig. 15.
INSTALLATION Reverse removal
procedure for installation
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17-19
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17-20
FIG. 9-A- Grill and Front Ornamentation
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FIG. 10- Exterior Ornamentation (Sedan, Wagon, F/Lane)
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FIG. 10A- Exterior Ornamentation (Sedan,
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17-21
17-22
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17-23
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<RC90tJSZ5+A6 ~ RETAINER RR{X)()R

OL'T5tD "'t('IULDINC ..3 RfG'D
ARC908 5-f 2 /0 !:HA. R TIA.INCif ASSY OOCR

Our5tD MLDG 2 .11~Q 'D
V38T7ZS Sf
8 A.ROCDB
-~4
2 R0"0
NUT
-COTIJ0-1 HnULCING A5SY
~N
(')t"Y:;J~
1/1 ACQD {R PO ALL 71 H . Xlf:L.::;)

,ll ':'
.o~ ._ ,..
.4. ' H
'
4-1 ~-..
TI-l
F.A. ~-' . 908 - S4 c ~ A~~ ,4 RCTAtN'k
..3
OUTS!!) HOULt) I !VG
' P DOOR
AQ D
G ARC908 ~54--Z t': 94A RrAttvF.R A~!Y ~()O,Q

OUTS/~ .v.. .:>G 2 REG ~
V38llZS 51
e RCQD
NUT
AR0208 If.. - 8068 / 9
FCIVIJk SID
1,
I[
MOULC J\IG A5':t
,Yr.
o u 1r c
;.. .')J fY6
Hl.LJG_ ,
V lf47725-57
IO Af?Vc..Ot.. ,_
,. :'t- r . .~r
Rc.- TAt!VR Ff ,,., DCXJR

PEG., D
RETAIIIIFD ..t! SSY f'lOOP
~>t.u.,
N IT
t Rra o
~..; .... .;
ltiOtiLOtflt r"J..':)"'i f!NUCR

2 RCO [) ( . ,., A~- 71 ~s)
-4TTAC ,., EACH MOUL {'' '' .
~R\JN'T
'
". - .,,,-v)( t;
.AR; - 9tJ8-5 4 2 ~ 4A4~-A.
OUTJt[l
G Ah'C 9<J8 5 4 - 24094...
;r 'L
Jl.5890 ~ S100 _ ,_i~E
7'1
NUT
1 q') D
17-24
- B
z~ -
TYP
,_
1/
/
I
5ECA
IVO'Ir
A . BIC
AU. Mt::IOEL.S .
I ~noo.<s
>"')ooA'C~ ,t:"f>'?
FIG. 11 -Body Side Stripe
17-25
Lfl@
IF? ~
'
I
FIG. 12- Rear End Ornamentation {Van and Wagon)
'
~ ----@----0
(8)
17-26
, r,
, rI

'
LF_J
~ I
(.
{)0
--=- =-
''l~
' '~'\\\, I
'
'\
JU
i\
0)
FIG. 12-A- Rear End Ornamentation (Ute and Fairlane)

nV;'-JL(-J__S~
13) -- - - - -9XJ
'
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
@)
GV;\JL_@ l * -
@
-- -
,ern- -
6=~--
ffl -- - -
( CSSJ
FIG. 12-B- Rear End Ornamentation (Sedan)
17-27
GROUP 17-BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
i). _ _
--- ~
-()
'
SYioolo
PART NO
-16AI08/9
PART NAiooiE
looiOULDING-FAONT FVIOER AIR !COOP- G.T,
-1&01~(6
PANEL FRONT
.... 6E106 - 7
DEFLECTOR FAT. FENDER Alii SCOOP
"
f3 7388&--.1 iol!'>
NUT-
FENDER
r SELF THREADING
FIG_ 13- Fender Air Scoop G.T.

SEC
I. ~
,
[ 02_:':~ AT
~,------ .\r~~. _ -1 DIMO: HEA~[J
I
~~
LJ
5CTION CC
17-29
PEkiPHERY
-16612- BA HOOD MJY

-16C612-AA MOULDING A.SSY.J.IOOD AIR SCOOP OPENING
{37.3888-540) NUT (12 REQD)
16A70.J-A LATCH NOOD D(TERNAl
-16A704-A8 SPRING- 1-1000
f x TC/rNAL LAT('l--1
@/17?1
536 PIN-GROOVED
~
~ -'""to
fl
V!W-
(/)
NOTE:- PIN(S) MUST BE ASSEM8LED
5YM A&:vT STEM o,:- LATCH TNRI.J

SeLECTED HOI.. W!I!Cfl TO<ieTHt:R. WITH SPACER WAS#ERS
UNDER
),: ( l:r.JN
A -A
FIG. 14- Hood Air Scoop G.T.
RErA!NER ASSY
-.._.
UJ
0
I.
0 4320 AllNCL ASS Y INST. WCL00

10A892'1JCZl AS SY. INST Cli/STCR MA IN
A j587~S 5 8 SCREW 8 15 ~ 38 CRS . RC l-ID. WASHeR
lJ. V .J88U ~9- 5l Nf/T A SSY. CA GC 1"~ 18 UNC .
C . 42758 5 36 SCI: CW(~ SHCR A SSY 6/8
t.
J
-H
04810
?2S .536
WAS H[ ,f
,r "(E PTA C L Aj ~ Y
SS!:ti~7 S ~
"VS I PANEl A.JJ..I

JC.{}w 8 18 A 1J TYPEA 8i'MNI"'OCAR(
,__,.. _
RCQ
'
'
-~,1-.- -=::----__--~---- ~
~
~
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C)
....
(,11
I
::s
!!:.
.,
OJ
0
0
.,
-<
<
3(1)
KNOCKOUT AS REQD
FOR CLOCK /N.JTALLA~
....::s
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::s
(1)
::s
....
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I
ii)
::s
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}>
....
(5'
(/)
.3
(/)
r/
'
17-31
PART
17-3
DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
Section
Page
I In-Car Adjustments and Repairs .. .. .. .. .. I 7-31
Dour Alignment ...... ..
I 7-31
Lock Striker Adjustment .. ..
I 7-31
Vent Window Adjustment .. ..
17-31
Front Door Glass Adjustment
17-3 I
Rear Door Window Adjustment
17-31
Single Action Tailgate Hinge Adjustment
17-33
Deck Lock Adjustment
.. .. .. .. ..
17-53
Deck Lid Alignment
.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17-37
2 Removal and lnstalla tiun
.. .. .. .. I 7-37
Doors .. .. .. .. ..
.. . . . . . . . . 17-37
F runt Door Lock
.. .. .. ..
17-37
Re:n Door Lock .. ..
17-37
Door Lock Cylinder ..
.. .. .. .. .. 17-37
I 7-37
Door Handle
.. .. .. .. ..
Door Lock Remote Control Handle
i 7-37
Door Vent Window Frame
. . . . . . . . . . .. l7-3X
17-38
Front Door Glass
. . . . . . . . . . ..
Section
Front Duor Window Regulator
Rear Door Glass .. .. .. .. .. ..
Rear Door Window Regulator
Rear Quarter Window and / or Weatherstrip
Station Wagon .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Windshield .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Back Window and / or Weatherstrip ..
Tailgate Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Tailgate Window Handle and Lock Cylinder
- Manual .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Tailgate Switch and Lock Cylinder - Power
Deck Lid Lock
Power Window s .. .. .. ..
R/Vision Mirror
Dual Actinn Tailgates
.. .. ..
Adjustments
.. .. .. ..
Remova l and Installation
Page
I 7-38
17-38
I 7-39
17-39
1740
17-41
I 7-43
..
..
..
..
17-43
17-47
l 7-53
17-54
17-41
17-48
17-48
17-48
17-48
DOOR ALIGNMENT
The door hinge> provide >uflicient
adjthlnl.:nt to correct mo>t mi,alignmcnt condition\. Loosen the door
hmgc attaching holts and adjust the
door '>0 that it is centered in the door
opening \\hen clo~ed. Then. tighten
the hinge attaching holt~.
After adju,tment at the hmgc
att.tchmg point~. check the alignment het\\t'en the door lock anJ
,tnl-.:r pl.tte for prope r Joor closing.
no not conr up poor door adjustment "ith ~trikcr plate adjustment.
LOCK STRIKER ADJUSTMENT
The ~.triker pin can he adju>ted
laterally and vertically as well as
fore and aft. The lock striker shC'Jid
not be adjusted to correct door s.ag.
The lock strika !>hould he shimmed
I<' l!Ct the clearance 'hown in Fig. I
hetween the lock striker and the
lock . To check this clearance. clean
the Jock jaws and the striker area.
anJ then apply a thin layer of dark
grease to the Jock striker. As the
Joor is closed and opened. a measurahlc pattern will result. Move the
stnkcr a~>emhly laterally to provide
a tlu-,h tit at the door and the pillar
or 4Uarter panel.
R.P.O. VENT WINDOW ADJUSTMENTS The vent glass and / or the vent
window frame may be adjusted in
various ways. With the vent glass installed, the lower pivot spring tension may he adjusted with a socket.
extension, and ratchet used through
the access hole in the door inner
panel. Adjust so that the glass will
stay open at highway speeds. The
door frame mounting holes are
elongated to provide a tight tit for
the vent window frame in the door
frame. The upper pivot mounting
holes are slotted to help provide
a weather-proof tit of the glass frame
within the vent window frame.
lOCK STRIKER
: ~~': ~ .
' ':
"
', >'\ . 1!-'\:,

'
'-
~~. '
MINIMUM
MAXIMUM
FIG. 1-Door Lock

Striker Adjustment
FRONT DOOR GLASS ADJUSTMENTSThe door trim panel must be removed to make any of the following
adjustments.
Fore-and-aft adjustment for snug
glass tit within the runs may be made
hy using suitable shim stock between
the front run and the vent window
division bar. The front and/ or the
rear run may also be shimmed at the
lower attaching point(s).
Vertical adjustment is possible

by moving the regulator in its
attaching holes.
Lateral adjustment for smooth
movement of the glass within the
runs can he maJe by moving the
lower attaching points of the run
(Fig. 2, 3 & 4).
REAR DOOR WINDOW
ADJUSTMENTI. Remove the door trim panel
and watershield .
2. To obtain proper alignment of
retainer and division har assemblyto-door window frame, shim the
attachment points until desired alignment is obtained.
17-32
GROUP 17- BODY
DOORS AND
WINDOWS
GLASS RETAINER REMOVAL

PUSH BUTTON IN UNTIL
FLUSH WITH RETAINER
PUSH RETAINER IN FIRMLY
GLASS RETAINER INSTALLATION
FIG. 2-Front Door Ventless Window Mechanism -
Typical
N2179-B

3. Install the watershield and door
trim panel.
Power windows are not available
where vent windows are fitted.
TAILGATE EMERGENCY
OPENING PROCEDURE
If the window regulator or the
manual regulator handle is inoperative, the tailgate can be opened
using the following procedure.
I . Remove the tailgate interior
cover panel retaining screws.
2. To remove the tailgate cover
panel, carefully pry loose with a large
~:.-
. ... ...r;.
screwdriver. Be sure to protect the

trim panel from scratches.
3. Remove the panel by attaching
two wire hooks in the upper holes
and slide the inner panel up and off
the tailgate.
4. Remove the water shield.
5. Disconnect the regulator arms
from the glass lower channel. Carefully lower the glass to the down
position and open the tailgate.
TAILGATE HINGE ADJUSTMENT
The tailgate can be adjusted fore
or aft and up or down at the hinge
to body mounting bolts.
~ ~
. oM
17-33
To adjust the tailgate from side to

side in the tailgate opening, loosen
the hinge to tailgate bolts and shift
the tailgate as required.
DECK LOCK ADJUSTMENT

The striker plate can be adjusted
laterally and \'ertically and the lock
can be adjusted laterally. Before adjusting the deck lid lock, make sure
that the deck lid is properly aligned.
To adjust the lock, loosen the
attaching screws, move the lock as
required to make good contact and
- .. ..... <1. (
Ill"'!'
.'. IITJJ~QJo~ Af.
vr.
r----
1 :.0:00
4 ,
ICJ.r ll
r.tl tP
n~
US'rA ~SO l'l.t.Tl'IO.
rc.
Tl'll JXD '1U.M!
-:"". r..CH.ITA~ l lllltAWTlOII I.ISr (t a-111'191'1'9 } ~
..
~;~lfn:~:J ~O:c~ I ~~ ~ vurm~~~~
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Glass - Front Door Window

Weather Strip Assy - Front Door Glass at Belt
Outside with Clips
Bracket Assy- Front Door Window Glass Mounting
Weatherstrip Assy - Front Door Glass at Belt
Inside with Clips
Run Assy- Front Door Glass
Retainer Assy - Front Door Glass Run Lockside
RunDoor Vent Window Division Bar Glass
Retainer Assy - Door Vent Window Division Bar
Glass Run R & L
Regulator Assy - Front Door Glass (Manual)
Window Assy - Front Door Vent
Bracket Assy- Front Door Window Equalizer Arm
Regulator Assy - Front Door Window (Power)
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
p
FIG. 3-Front Door Vented Window
Retainer Assy - Door Window Glass Channel

Bracket
Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft .
Screw & Washer Assy Tor que 6-11 lbs. ft .
Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft .
Screw Hex head Tapping
U Nut
Screw Torque 18-43 lbsin
Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft.
Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 1bs. ft .
Screw & Washer Assy Torque 611 lbs. ft.
Spacer - Rear Door Window Regulator Motor
Bracket
Bracket - Rear Door Window Regulator Motor
Nut & Washer Assy Torque 18-43 lbsin
Black Sealer - .25 dia applied along entire Inside
Corner and on Top of Channel & Window Assy
(item 10) before Installation of Vent Window Assy
Adhesive Bead .18- .25 Applied to Areas Between
Points V and Won Both Corners.
17-34
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
GROUP 17- BODY
Glass - Rear Door Drop

Glass - Rear Door Drop
Glass - Rear Door Stationary
Weatherstrip - Rear Door Stationary Window
Glass - Rear Door Stationary Window
Weatherstrip - Rear Door Stationary Window
Weatherstrip Assy- Rear Door Glass at Belt Outside
with Clips
Bracket Assy- Rear Door Window Glass Channel
Run Assy - Rear Door Glass
Run Assy- Rear Door Glass
Weatherstrip Assy- Rear Door Glass at Belt Inside
with Clips
Run - Rear Door Glass Rear
Run - Rear Door Glass Rear
Retainer & Division Bar Assy - Rear Door Glass Run
Retainer & Division Bar Assy- Rear Door Glass Run
Regulator Assy- Rear Door Window (Manual)
Retainer Assy - Rear Door Glass Run Front
Regulator Assy - Rear Door Window (Power)
DOORS AND WINDOWS
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
P
Retainer Assy - Door Window Glass Channel Bracket

Screw
Screw & Washer Assy
Screw & Washer Ass y
Screw & Washer Assy
Screw & Washer Assy
Screw & Washer Assy
Screw & Washer Assy
Screw & Washer Assy
Spacer - Rear Door Window Regu lator
Bracket- Rear Door Window Regulator Motor
Nut & Washer Assy
Adhesive Bead - Apply both Corner s Shown X and Y
Black Sealer - .19 Dia . around Perimeter of Stationary
Glass as Shown View B
FIG . 4-Rear Door Window Mechanism
AI-(A
--
09
I~ ,o;:::.~
'
DESIGN
CL EARANCE
AREA
--
~-~
~j I~H
I ' \l--.~
~ - ---"'1'\ )~~~
'\
/
' ~/.:
-~~~
-,/
/~
"'' "-"""
y ,
8
VIEWC
~~
13
vtew
II
10
~
MODELS XA-54 ( 71
f-7\
7-
APPLrfr:.- 8 -MIC9J Aj LUBRICANT
II
NOTE
08 DESIGN CLEARANCE
TO LOO< R[LEA5 LEVER OF HANOLL

A.SSr JT[ Mtfii!ATAR[A Z
i
I
.,
1. Handle Assy - Rear Door Lock Inside

2. Latch Assy - Door - Rear
3. Link Assy- Door Latch Remote Control
4. Link Assy - Door Lock Control Rod
5. Rod - Rear Door Lock Push Button
6. Knob - Door Lock Control Rod
7. Bell Crank Assy- Rear Door Lock Control
8. Handle Assy Rear Door Outside
9. Rod & Washer Assy- Rear Door Handle Actuating
10. Plate- Front Door Handle Outside Mounting
11 . Handle Assy- Rear Door Outside
12. Pad - Door Outside Handle
13. Plate- Front Door Handle Outside Mounting
14. Striker Assy Door Lock
-:-a
w
I
"'
-~
~
6'.
VIEWD
,f 4
,.,-t
~
(tl)
'
IN VI{W5
A18 e.EFOR{ IN5TALLAT!ON OFI-iANDL! A.)SY
-t
)>
.,
"08~
''--A
0
0
()
r-
-.a
I
Vl
FIG. 5 Door handles and locks installation
17-36
.06
.03
AREA
......
13
14
II
10
09MIN
IS MAX.
10
VIEwC
9
VIEW
VI[W
ALL MODELS
NOTE
APPt.Y{ESB-MIC93A} LUBRICANT
TO LOCK RELEASE LEVER OF 1-/ANOL
ASS'Y. TTMI2t4 AT AREAZ"IN
VIEWS
BEFORE IN:5TALLATION
A; B
OF HANDLE A.SS'Y
VIEW
VIEW
VIEWF
ALL MOtJt:LS
J
1. Handle Assy - Door Inside
2. Latch Assy - Door Front
3. Link Assy - Door Latch Remote Control
4. Handle Assy - Front Door Outside
5. Plate & Lever Assy- Front Door Outside Handle Mounting
6. Knob- Door Lock Control
7. Rod- Door Lock Push Button
8. Ref - Door Lock Pillar
9. Striker Assy - Door Lock
10. Rod - Door Lock Control to Cylinder
11 . Lock Assy - Door
12. Rod Assy - Door Lock Actuating
13. Handle Assy Front Door Outside
14. Pad - Door Outside Handle
15. Plate - Front Door Outside Handle
A
B
C
D
Screw & Washer Assy

Clip Assy
Screw
Clip- Door Lock Rod Retaining
F Nut & Washer Assy

G Grommet Door Lock Knob
H Clip Door Lock Rod Ret
J Shim - Rear Door Lock Striker Plate
K Screw & Washer Assy Torque 10-20 lbs. ft.
L Retainer- Door Lock Cylinder
M Clip Door Lock Rod Retaining
FIG. 5A Door locks and handles installation

tighten the attaching screws. Move
the striker plate up or down as
necessary to increase or decrease
the clearance between the deck lid
and the lower back panel.
EJ
DECK LID ALIGNMENT

The deck lid can be shifted fore
and aft, up and down, and from
side to side. Slotted holes in the lid
provide fore and aft movement.
17-37
Slotted hinge bolt holes in the mounting bracket provide up and down
movement. Enlarged hinge mounting
bolt holes in the lid inner panel provide limited lateral movement.
DOORS
REMOVAL
1. Remove the door hinge-to-door
attaching bolts, and remove the door.
2. If a hinge is damaged, remove
the pillar attaching bolts and remove
the hinge.
3. If the door is damaged, a replacement door is furnished as a
sheet metal shell in prime paint.
It has no hinges, trim, glass, runs, or
hardware. When a door is replaced,
make any needed minor repairs to
the new shell, drill holes necessary
for mouldings, paint the door, and
transfer all usable parts. Cement the
weatherstrip properly.
If only a door outer panel is seriously damaged, the whole door need
not be replaced. A replacement outer
panel is available.
INSTALLATION
1. If the hinge was removed, install it to the pillar.
2. Position the door to the hinges.
Partially tighten the bolts, align the
door, and tighten the bolts securely.
3. Align the door glass, glass runs,
stops, regulator, and remote control.
4. Install the door water shield
and the door trim.
FRONT DOOR LOCK
REMOVAL
1. Remove the trim panel and
position the water shield away from
the access holes.
2. Disconnect the door lock remote control link, the lock actuating rod and the lock control to
cylinder at the lock (Fig. 5). Remove the knob from the push button rod.
3. Remove the glass rear run
lower retaining bolt and position
the run away from the door lock.
4. Remove the lock assembly
from the door. Remove the push
button rod from the lock.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the push button rod to
the lock.
2. Position the lock in the door,

and install the retaining screws. Connect the lock control to cylinder
rod, the lock actuating rod, and the
remote control link at the lock. Install the push button.
3. Position the glass rear run in
the door. Install the retaining bolt,
adjust the rear run, and tighten the
retaining bolt.
lock. If necessary, adjust the lock
striker.
5. Carefully position the water
shield to the inner panel; and install
the trim panel.
REAR DOOR LOCK
REMOVAL
the access holes.
2. Disconnect the door lock remote control rod and door lock
control rod at the door lock assembly.
3. Remove the three screws retaining the lock assembly to the
door and remove the lock assembly
from the door (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
1. Position the lock assembly in
the door, and install the retaining
screws.
2. Connect the door lock remote
control rod and the door iock control rod at the door lock assembly.
lock. If necessary, adjust the lock
striker.
shield to the inner panel, and install
the trim panel.
DOOR LOCK CYLINDER
The key code is stamped on the
lock cylinder to assist in replacing
lost keys.
When a lock cylinder is replaced,
both door lock cylinders and the
ignition lock cylinder should be replaced in a set. This will avoid
carrying an extra key which will fit
only one lock.

the access holes.
2. Disconnect the lock control to
door lock cylinder rod at the lock
cylinder.
3. Pull the door lock cylinder retainer rearward to release the cylinder, and remove the lock cylinder
from the door.
4. Transfer the lock cylinder arm
to the new lock cylinder.
5. Position the lock cylinder in
the door, and install the lock cylinder retainer (Fig. 5).
6. Connect the lock control to
door lock cylinder rod at the lock
cylinder.
shield to the inner panel and install
the trim panel.
DOOR HANDLE
1. Remove the door trim panel,

and position the water shield away
from the access holes.
2. Disconnect the lock actuating
rod.
3. Remove the handle retaining
nuts and remove the handle (Fig. 5).
4. Connect the lock actuating link
to the door handle and install the
handle.
shield to the inner panel, and install
the trim panel.
DOOR LOCK REMOTE CONTROL
HANDLE
1. Remove the remote control

housing bezel by sliding the bezel
towards the front of the car, then
lifting clear of the trim pad.
2. Remove the window regulator
handle (manual windows) and remove
the door trim panel.
3. Slide the remote control hous
ing forward clear of its location in
the door inner panel, unhook the
remote control rod and remove the
housing.
Reverse the preceding operations
for re-assembly.
17-38
R.P.O.
DOOR VENT WINDOW FRAME
1. Remove the door trim panel and
the watershield.
2. Remove the i:mer and outer
door belt line weatherstrips by prying
them loose from the door.
3. Remove the window lower
stop (power windows) and completely
lower the door window.
4. Remove the front glass run
adjusting bolt, lock nut and washer.
5. Remove the front glass run
from the division bar retainer at
the vent frame by sliding the run
down and removing it from the
door through the inner panel access
hole .
6. Remove the three screws retaining the vent frame to the door
frame . Remove the vent window
assembly and place it on a bench .
7. Remove the screws retaining
the upper vent pivot to the vent
frame assembly. Remove the nut
retaining the lower pivot bolt and
remove the spring nylon bushings,
washer and stop washer.
8. Remove two screws from the
top of the assembly and remove the
four rivets retaining the vent frame
and division bar weatherstrip. Separate the frame and division bar.
9 . Using suitable tool, remove the
glass. Remove the weatherseal.
INSTALLATION
1. Position new weatherseal to

the vent glass.
2. Lubricate the weatherseal with
rubber lubricant and seat the glass
assembly in its channel.
3. Position the division bar to
the vent frame . Position the vent
frame and division bar weatherstrip
and install the four rivets and two
screws at the top of the frame.
4. Assemble the vent tension
spring to the lower pivot and adjust
the pivot spring tension so that the
window will stay open at highway
speeds.
5. Position the frame assembly on
the door and install the three retaining screws.
6. Position the glass front run in
the door and slide it into the vent
frame retainer.
7. Loosely install the front run
adjusting bolt and nut.
8. Raise the window halfway and
loosely in stall the lower glass stop.
9. Adjust the front run and

tighten the retaining nut.
10. Lower the window so that
the top of th~ glass is le1el with the
window opening belt line.
11. Install the belt line weatherstrips.
12. Install the door watershield
and trim panel.
FRONT DOOR GLASSREMOVAL

the access holes.
2. After removing the stop,
lower the glass until the regulator arm roller is out of the glass
channel.
3. Unsnap and remove the belt
weatherstrips, loosen the front run
attaching bolt at the mounting
bracket, and remove the bracket
attaching bolt from the inner panel.
4. Remove the front run from
the division bar by pulling rearward
on the edges of the run.
5. Remove the glass.
INSTALLATION
l. Disconnect the glass retainer

and remove the channel from the
glass.
2. Install the channel, using new
retainers.
3. Simultaneously, position the
glass and run in the door, and install
the belt weatherstrips.
4. Position the regulator arm roller in the channel. and finally position the run in the division bar.
5. Connect the run and bracket,
making necessary lateral adjustment.
6. Install the stop, making necessary adjustment.
shield. the inner panel, and install
the trim panel.
FRONT DOOR WINDOW
REGULATOR
REMOVAL
1. Remove the trim panel and p~
sition the water shield away from the
access holes.
2. Disconnect the regulator from
the glass channel roller.
3. Raise the glass by hand and
secure it in the raised position.
4. Remove the regulator retaining

bolts (Fig. 3). and remove the regulator through the door access hole.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the regulator inside
the door and install the retaining
bolts snugly.
2. Lower the glass and connect
the regulator.
glass, adjust it if necessary, and
tighten the retaining bolts.
the trim panel.
REAR DOOR GLASS

REMOVAL
l. Remove the door trim panel

and watershield.
2. Remove the two screws retaining the regulator roller channel
bracket to the lower window channel
(Fig. 4) .
3. Remove the lower stop assembly.
4. Remove the screw and nut retaining the rear run retainer and
stationary glass. Move the run retainer and glass back and down in
the door.
5. Remove the door belt, outside
w~atherstrip .
6. Tilt the door window down

and then lift it out of the door.
7. Disconnect the glass retainers
and remove the glass from the lower
channel.
INSTALLATION
I. Install the lower channel on the

glass using new retainers.
2. Position the glass and channel
assembly in the door.
3. Position the rear run retainer
and stationary glass assembly and
install the retainer screw and nut.
4. Install the regulator roller channel bracket on the window channel.
5. Install the lower window stop.
6. Install the door trim watershield and the door trim panel.
7. Install the window outside belt
weatherstrip.
17-39

REAR DOOR WINDOW
REGULATOR
REMOVAL
the access holes.
2. Disconnect the regulator from
the glass channel roller.
3. Raise the glass by hand and
secure it in a raised position.
4. Remove the regulator retaining
screws and remove the regulator
through the door access hole.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the regulator inside
the door and install the retaining
screws snugly.
2. Lower the glass and connect
the regulator.
3. Check. the operation of the
glass, adjust it if necessary, and
tighten the retaining bolts.
the trim panel.
REAR QUARTER WINDOW

AND/OR WEATHERSTRIP
STATION WAGON
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a bead of sealer around

the window opening flange.
2. Position the weatherstrip on
the glass and install the outer moulding in the weatherstrip.
3. Install a draw cord in the
weatherstrip, and apply rubber lubricant to the weatherstrip surfaces
that will contact the window opening
flange.
4. Position the window assembly
to the window O;Jening and use the
draw cord to pull the weatherstrip
over the window opening flange.
S. Using a caulking gun, apply
sealer between the outside of the
glass and the weatherstrip.
1. Remove the quarter window

inside rear garnish moulding.
2. Remove the quarter window
outside front moulding (Fig. 6).
3. Working from inside the car,
loosen the weatherstrip from the
window opening flange, and push
the window, weatherstrip and
moulding assembly out of the opening.
4. Remove the moulding and
weatherstrip from the glass.
6. Install the outside front moulding retaining screws (Fig. 6).

7. Install the inside quarter window
gear garnish mouldings.
5. Using solvent, remove all old

sealer from the window opening
flange, the window and the weatherstrip.
8. Check for water leaks, then clean

the glass and mouldings.
2
VlEW-A
VIEW-B
VlEW -C
FIG. 6-Stationary Rear Quarter Window -
Wagon
VtE W-0
17-40
WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT
PROCEDUKE
Before removal of the windshield
glass, carefully examine the mouldings, interior and exterior, to locate
any areas of moulding interference
with the glass which will require rework prior to re-installation to prevent recurrent windshield breakage.
Prior to removing the windshield
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the wiper arm and
blade assemblies.
2. Remove the cowl top ventilator
grille panel retaining screws and remove the cowl top ventilator grille
panel.
3. Unsnap the upper moulding
retainers using the special tool and
RETA I~R
At1HR
.SliRI74C
remove the outside top moulding.

4. Remove the outside side moulding retaining screws and remove the
outside side moulding.
5. Remove the outside lower
moulding retainer retaining screws.
Remove the outside lower moulding
and retainers.
6. Remove the sun visor and
bracket assemblies.
7. Remove the interior garnish
mouldings.
Removal (Fig. 7):

1. If the glass has been broken,
remove loose glass fragments. Beginning at the comer, peel the butyl
Iii IUQ 'D
~ ~PPt.ICD
tTHLR Sl ()." WINDSHIILD OPN1Ne .
TO BODY
O'Otl'iti . - - DINNSIONS !'DR IJI/T>'L "It> GLASS

CONYACT Alfl' SIIOWN IN VICWJ '.
IIOTC ' GLA3S NIJST /J CN17:/KD IN IW""'-D
'1-
ON IJNDERSID or GI.A5.S
ASSY. 1'011 APPI.CATION NVST IJ IJNirof(lf WITH
NO SI(IPS ~CR/IfiSSI6LE.
ALLOW 20 SECONDS NINIJWH DltYINO Tll't At~
AROUNO NTtlt PUUNCTJt O'
WIND$H~tD OI'Eit~ .
tape seal away from the body pinch

weld ftange by grasping the seal near
the flange and pulling directly away.
If the glass is not broken it can be
removed by using a piece of small
diameter piano wire to cut the butyl.
The piano wire is threaded through
the butyl tape leaving about ten
inches of wire on either side of the
glass. Each end of the wire is
wrapped around small wood dowels
to permit the operator to firmly grasp
the wire and with a sawing motion
cut the butyl.
2. Remove the window from the
body opening.
CAUTION: Care must be .used
to prevent cutting the rubber tip on
existing retainers or lower glass
supports.
) SEAL A$5Y Wl/rrOSHIClO GlASS ,
TO INSTAlLATION
APPI.IED 10 - ENS/016 SilO- IN VIWS"8 : o 4 G

AROUND ENTIRE PERI!tfTR OF WIN(JS/1/CLD
Ol'rNtNG AI"TCR INSTAl lATION 0" RTi'. IN/i. l"r/11 I
SEAL ASSY. HIJST ~ C 1./T ON ANGCC A !5 .SNOWir IN VIEW
'1-1' AND ~ Ht.IST 6UTT , A Pf'ROX. AT CINTfR 0'
GI.ASS ASSYIOIIOD~
GLASS ASSY-c>SH~C)
..)t.Cf.AIW: BY PfM5S/IIG IN PI.ACC 10MSUW A COHI'I.C'f'E
SIAL AlfO<.NIJ
PrRIIWTE"f OF" WJNDSJr.D
!f.
OAr- ~UCN 1'11AT TN 01rrrc..a - l A

SIDE ItA~ 1$ 11t1T GRCA"IW"~ "!"NAN "'0
ALOM> 1mRC "A' PILJ.Aif .
0' GLASS A$SY
!II'MCR ASSY. WINDSHieLD

IOLASS LOWCR I "1"00 ATTACH CACH -4SsY Wmt
A. SCIIUI flllt 51
Z Rl.f:IIJIIIO>
:ZAL1?(8LACif) ALL YEHICUS ltllll

MAD Al'lf.l0 M7WrN ~ A.JSY, 11'CN J ,AND IIOD'I
' ALL AIIOVND AFT/f IISTALLAT10N 01' &ASS ASSY.
ITCN S .SC VICW t-:
~ -~LDCIASI 701"
15
'
":JI.Jt.DIIiriG ASSY -
WINDSHIELD ourstD SID .
10. WHCN A 'MHOSHIELD ..,.AtS 1l) l'fE T "DfE
0\li!ltLAP
I. Pfii/IIE
-/'1~ .
EDGE
CY ,GLA$$ A/liD NINIItfUN 040 ,
0111'51/IE SIIIFN:E AT AR"' OF PDM OVIlRL.AP .
Z. ALLO/tlf 10 S<NDS NININIM DlfY TIN

.5 AI'LY RCIWR /MJIYL ST101P AS S - N IN
VICW
.!J:
II.
1101./LDIHG WINOSHILD
OUTSIO~ TOP COI#NIIf 1Jt lf~'D .
SECURE ACH NOI.IlDING ._ CLI-NG Ollif
SID ANO T'OP ltiOULDINGS .
IZ
ltiOULDI"i(J WINDSHICLD
OUTS BCLT ' I' "flO 'D .
SECUIIC LACN IJUU.DIN(; W!Tit THC 'Ott.OW.tiiG ITEIII$
,lfTA1HIIf.
NOIJL~
WIND$Nin0 .EL T
7 RCQ"D .
~CREW
- 7 RQ 'Q .
13
SAACER
WINDSNICLD
OUTSIJ_ ULT HOULDtNG - ~ ltlQ 'D
PRErERR0
CVT.
DPT'ION.IU.
CUT.
FIG. 7Windshield
Installation
~
'
-15 WI()TH riSI/Jl

CONTACT ( TYPICAL ) . / " ,
NOTC: tltRGUI.AIItriCS
0' l l.NIN. WfD'r/1 AlfL
ACCEPTA6L NIOYIDING
T~L'r
DO NOT EW:ECD
THE I'CIUOWIMI . i 'NAX lENG"nt lAC/If

ONC(I} PCR IS" SCG/fENT
TrN (I O)'rOTAL Eln'!IIC
P/fi JiwCJ!f.Y.
.......,~,..,.._

3. Remove and retain the lower
rubber glass supports from the
windshield.
4. Clean body flanges thoroughly
by removing all butyl tape and if

vinyl top model, removt! any excess
vinyl top cement in the sealing
area. If the glass has previously
teen replaced using a different
sealer, the old adhesive must be
completely removed from the pinch
weld flange.
5. Examine the glass opening
pinch weld flange and rework if
ree>uired
to
eliminate high-low
areas on flange. Paint repair as
required .
INSTALLATION
If a new windscreen is being fitted,
attach the bracket rear view mirror to the
windscreen in the position shown in Fig.
22 . Using Arildite or similar adhesive,
apply masking tape over the bracket to
ensure the bracket does not move during
windscreen installation and adhesive curing
time.
1. Based on the initial moulding
and glass examinations, rework exterior and j or interior mouldings to
eliminate any points of moulding
interference with the glass.
7. Cement spacers to pinch flange

with rubber cement as shown in
Fig. 8.
8. Temporarily position replacement glass in opening and adjust

to the best glass to body pinch
weld overlap position. Mark this
location with crayon. Remove the
glass and clean the glass thoroughly.
9. Apply the primer, furnished in
the kit, to the entire pinch flange'
and around the entire perimeter of
the underside and edge of the glass
that will contact the sealer. (Refer
to Fig. 8).
10. Place cartridge in caulking
gun and pump out a 5/16" diameter
bead along the sealing surface of
the glass opening.
11. Place glass in position using

the crayon mark on the glass to
locate the glass in the body open
in g.
~OTE: The side windows should
be opened and left open for at
least one half hour after repair so
the new glass is not forced out of
position if the doors are slammed
shut.
17-41
least ssF to insure satisfactory

curing of the sealer.
Subsequent replacements of glass

can be made in the following manner:
When a windshield glass is re
moved which had previously been
installed with the same type of
sealer, it is not necessary to remove
all of the sealer from the body
glass opening. The remaining film
of sealer on the body flange can
be used as a base for the new application of sealer.
IMPORTANT: If any doubt exists as to whether the old sealer
is of the same type as the new
sealer, then remove all of the old
sealer and prime the pinchweld
flange.
BACK WINDOW
AND/OR WEATHERSTRIP
REMOVAL
2. Procure a windscreen replacement kit.
3.
and
sure
and
Check all moulding retainers

replace or repair them to in
adequate moulding retention
glass positioning.
4. On vinyl top Model: Apply

masking tape or other protective
material over vinyl roof cover in
area of the glass opening to aid
in clean-up operations after the
glass installation.
5. Reinstall the lower supports
(removed in Step 4 of removal procedure).
6. Fabricate four rubber spacers
x f' x I" from mechanical
rubber.
c"
12. Clean excess sealer from the

glass with a razor blade and wipe
off with a clean cloth dampened
with a glass cleaner.
13. Visually inspect appearance
of sealer through the glass. Dull
spots indicate areas where sealer
is not contacting the glass surface. Repair these areas by applying additional sealer.
14. Allow the sealer to cure before reinstalling any mouldings to

avoid cementing the mouldings to
the sealer, then reinstall the mouldings.
NOTE: Cure time is seven hours
in temperatures over 70F. The
temperature of the area where this
work is performed should be at
l. From in3ide the car, hosen the

weatherstrip edges and then push
out the back window and weatherstrip as an assembly .
2. Place the window assembly on a

bench and remove the mouldings and
weatherstrip from the glass.
INSTALLATION - (Fig . 9).

1. Clean the glass, weathentrip
and the body opening flange.
2. Using a sealer gum, apply
sealer in the weatherstrip glass
opening.
3. Position the weatherstrip on
the glass, and then install the
mouldings in the weatherstr:p.
17-42

RU68ER SPACER
(FOUR RECUIRED)
REFER VIEW '8' FOR

PRIMER APPLICATION
VIEW 'A'
APPLY PRIMER TO UNDERSIDE

AND E OGE OF GLASS AND TO
METAL SURFACE - - - -
FIG. &-Windshield Replacement
S EC
17-43
SEC
CIR CLe(.
FIG. 9- Back Window Installation---- Utility

4. Insert the draw cord in the
weatherstrip, and apply rubber lubricant to the weatherstrip surfaces
that will contact the back window
opening flange.
3. Remove the regulator arms

from the window regulator channel
and remove the window assembly.
5. Using a sealer gun, apply a

bead of sealer completely around
the back window openin!; .
1. With a glass remover tool, r emove the glass lower retainer and
channel assembly and then clean
the glass groove.

in the body opening . With a helper
applying hand pressure from the
outside, use the draw cord to pull
the lips of the weatherstrip over
the window opening flanges .
7. Clean the window and mouldings.
TAILGATE GLASS
REMOVAL
1. Open the tailgate and remove
the trim panel and watershield.
2. On power operated models,

turn the right hand side lock pivot
to the closed position and raise
the window partially out of the
gate. On manually operated models
wind the window partially out using
the handle.
INSTALLATION
2. Position the weatherstrip into

the glass lower channel. Install the
weatherstrip and channel to the
g-lass.
in the gate and install the regulator arms to the regulator channel.
Lower the window into the tailgate.
4. Install the tailgate watershield
and trim panel.
TAILGATE WINDOW HANDLE

AND LOCK CYLINDER-MANUAL
REMOVAL
Refer to Fig. 12 for views of th e
assembly.
1. Remove
the
taiigate trim
J:anel and watershield and align
a ccess holes in regulator asemblsy
with those in tailgate inner panel.
2. Unscrew the two nut and

washer assemblies fastening the
window handle assembly to the tailgate and remove the handle assembly, the regulator stem socket, the
spring and the rubber pad.
3. To remove the lock cylinder,
turn the key in the cylinder to align
the cylinder locking pin with the
access hole in the handle assembly.
Depress the locking pin and remove
the lock cylinder.
INSTALLATION
I. To replace the Jock cylinder,
transfer the 0 ring, and then with
the key in the cylinder, install the

lock cylinder in the handle assembly.
2. Relocate the parts removed
and replace the two nut and washer
assemblies and tighten securely.
17-44
S ECTf()N- AA
44 6, C . 0, , G, H
MODElS
SECTION- 66
SCCTION CC
~--_:::::::; -
~-~
FIG. 9A Back window installation - Sedan

-MOlllL
84CJI' WINDOW AND
~1
EXTERIOR MOl/WINGS rOR AlL 54 MODELS
(!)
!!>lACK SEALER APPUef) AKOUNO lNTtJ.t

h .. !-': METER OF !JACK WINDOW :JPENING.
WEATHER STRIP AS5Y. BACK WINDOW

nmJJ ON ALL .54 MODELS EXCEPT "<fA
GlASS !JACI( WINDOW
@)
MO:Jl O ING bACJt' WINI>OW OiJfj/lJE U~PlR

RQU/4t.O FVRAll :~4 MCJ{)EL~ EXCtPT 5-/ -1 ATTACH TO W/STRIP A~" SHOWN
(3:)
MOUlDING BACK WINDOW OUTS![) lOWEk

lfEQIJ/{(1[) fOR AlL .54 MObllS EXCEI'T 44A ATrACH TO W(STRIP AS 5HOWN
WfATNERSTIIIP ASSY lw:l< WIN{)()IV IIE~D fOil 44A ONLY
@
(Z)
MOULD/NV BACK W!Nl>OW OUTSIDE LOWE!? I(EQ'D
S"'f ;II MODE.
NOTE:
ONlY
ArTEA APPliCATION o,lJIArK .'i/A/li?-I.XOSS !>lt4llR

lrll/ST M W!Pl. "[) ("[ EAN FROM - LASS A.~.r.y, Kl A Till~ StRIP ASSY
M0l/LDING5 A/IV All /JODY S'./RFA(L:::,
->TAll /IF
._ ffl r
f'
17-45
II
1/
~ ~li
'
TYPICAL 2 P LACES
EACH SlDE
L~
I
VIEW-F
VIEW-H
FIG. 10 Tailgate weatherstrip installation
1. Moulding Assy- Back Window Outside Side

2. Weatherstrip & Assy - T /gate
3. Moulding - Back Window Outside Upper
4. Run Assy- Back Window Glass Top
5. Retainer Assy - Back Window Glass Ru n
6. Retainer - Back Window Moulding O utside - Upper
7. Sealer - Gray or Black . 19 Dia . 10 Pl aces Vi ew " 8 "
8. Alternate Sealer - Pressu re Sensitive o n o ne Wide Side On ly.
Applied Entire Length of Retainer - Item 5
See View A. C, D & H .
10. Adhesive Sealer - . 19 D ia. Bead as Shown Each Side V iew " C & H "
1 1. Black Tape 1.00 x 6.00 Long - Each Side of Car o n We ld F lan ge
12. Sealer- Black .25 Dia . to fill Space Betwe en Fl ange and Mo uld ing Back WindoliV Cu tside Upper- View "A"
13. Adhesive- Applied Between Items 4 and 2 afte r Posit io ning
'~
A . Screw
B. Screw
C. Nut & Washer Assy
D . Screw
17-46
FIG. 11 Single action tailgate l')inges and locks
1. Striker- T/gate Upper RH

2. Stop - T /gate Check Cable Spring
3. Bushing- T /gate Counter Balance Torsion Bar
4. Bracket - T /gate Counter Balance Torsion Bar on Body
5. Retainer- T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body
6. Cable Assy- Tailgate Check
7. Spring- T /gate Check Cable R H
8. Hinge Assy - T /gate R H
9. Striker Assy- T /gate Upper Latch LH
10. Hinge Assy T/gate LH
11. Spring T /gate Check Cable LH
12. Cable Assy - T /gate Check
A. Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs ft.

B. Shim
C. Sealer- Gray or Black, .19 Dia. 15 places
D. Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft.
E. Bolt Truss Head
F. Washer FIat
G. Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft.
H. Shim
J. Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft.
K.Shim
L. Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs ft.
M. Screw & Washer- Torque 25-38 lbs ft.
S. Washer FIat
17--47
on the lock cylinder and install the

spring clip.
3. The window may now be wounc;l
to the open (in) position.
4. Return the catch pawl on the
right-hand side lock assembly to
the open position.
5. Install the tailgate cover panel
and replace the retaining screws.
/l
SOCKET RETAINING
SP~IHG
PIEGULATOR HANDL!
AS5M&LY
PAD
FIG. 12-Tailgate
Handle and Lock Cylinder
3. Replace the watershield and

trim panel.
TAILGATE SWITCH AND LOCK
CYLINDER POWER
REMOVAL
Refer to Fig. 13 for views of the
assembly.
1. Wind down the window and
open the tailgate.
2. Remove the tailgate cover panel
retaining screws and remove the
panel.
3. Rotate the catch pawl on the
right-hand side lock assembly to
the closed position. The tailgate
window may now be wound to the
closed (out) position. The glass
must be supported while in this
position.
4. Detach the spring clip and remove the switch assembly from the
lock cylinder.
5. The clip retaining the lock
cylinder may now be removed enabling the lock cylinder to be withdrawn.
CYLI~DE R
RETAI~ER
INSTALLATION
1. Insert the lock cylinder in the
tailgate outer panel and install the
retaining clip.
2. Replace the switch assembly
FIG. 13-Tailgate Lock

Cylinder (Power)
17-48
GROUP 17- BODY
DOORS AND WINDOWS
FIG. 14-Deck Lid Torsion Bar

DUAL ACTION TAILGATES
Dual action tailgates are available
with manual or power rear window
operation. The Dual action tailgate
can be opened in the normal manner
(same as single action) or it can be
swung from left to right.
The right side hinges are designed
to accommodate both vertical and
horizontal opening.
To open the gate vertically , wind
the window down, lift the lock-bar
and lower the tailgate.
To open the tailgate horizontally,
lower the window, turn the outside
handle and swing the tailgate to the
right.
If the tailgate has been opened
horizontally, and vertical opening is
desired, the tailgate must be closed
before vertical release is possible and
vice-versa.
ADJUSTMENTS
While full adjustments are pro-
vided for the dual action tailgate, no

unique methods are employed. The
following information will assist in
locating and performing tailgate adjustments to obtain the clearances
shown in Fig. 17.
The fore and aft and up and down
adjustment of the tailgate is accomplished at the hinge side by means of
square holes in the body pillar, backed
by floating tapping plates, at the
upper and lower hinge attachments
(Figs. 16 - 17).
Lateral adjustment of the tailgate
is accomplished at the upper hinge by
adding or removing spacer shims between the hinge on the body and the
pillar. Lateral adjustment at the lower
hinge is accomplished by means of
oversize holes in the tailgate at the
hinge on the gate attachment (Figs.
16- 17).
Fore and aft and up and down adjustment of the strikers is accomplished by means of square holes in
the pillar backed by floating tapping

plates. Lateral adjustment is accomplished by adding or removing shims
(Fig. 5).
REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
TAILGATE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
l. Lower the tailgate vertically.
2. Remove the right hand cover
hinge outer bolts to body.
3. Close the tailgate and swing it
open horizon tally.
4. Disconnect the power window
wiring (if fitted).
5. Support the tailgate and remove
the remaining right hand hinge to
body bolts and vertical opening
support cable.
6. Remove the tailgate from the
vehicle.
17-49
FIG. 15- Dual Tailgate Lock & Handle Installation
JIOTE:
APPLY (ESB-MlC93 A) UIBRICHfl' '1'0 Eln'IR! ~ACE <7

IT!)( lO, '1'0 A~&IR E PIIOPER I liST; ~TION OP' !lA !rOLE
ASSY. Il'EII 13. THE IJR.I..IN5 I~ ''L'' , IllS'!' 8!: Ill
'1'1!:: 000'11 POSITION 1-Im MEDALLIOII ON IIA!rDLE MUST !IIi
UPRIGII'I WIIEJI wlNDOo I 5 Ill CLO:i0 ?OSITIOII.
~KE'I',
IT!:M 10, MUST BE IIISTALLED JI'l'll ii!l:t1', ITEM '' H" Ill
IJF P031TION A3 !IIOW!f Ill PA'JI. I'l'!)l "M" Ill IIA!rDLE
,:;;;," '!., I'l'EM 13.
1. Regulator Assy - Back Window

2. Glass & Channel Assy- Back Window
3. Run & Retainer Assy- Back Window Glass Lower Side LH
4. Bracket Assy - Back Window Regulator
5. Bumper - Back Window Stop
6. Run & Retainer Assy- Back Window Glass Lower Side RH
7. Handle & Housing Assy- T /gate
8. Pad T /gate Outside Handle
9. Bracket - T /gate Outside Handle
10. Socket- Back Window Regulator Stem
11 . Pad - Back Window Regulator Socket Retaining
12. Pad - Back Window Regulator Handle
13. Handle Assy- Back Window Regulator
14. Lock Set
15. Lock Set (Power)
16. Retainer- Door Lock Cylinder

17. Switch Assy- Window Regulator Control
18. Retainer- Window Regulator Switch
19. Sealer .25 Dia. Bead
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
K
Screw & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft.

Screw
Screw & Washer Assy - Tor que 8-13 lbs. ft.
Nut & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft.
Screw & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft.
Nut & Washer Assy - Torque 6-11 lbs. ft.
Nut & Washer Assy -Torque 13-32 lbs. ft.
Seal- "0" Ring
17-50
FIG. 16- Dual Tailgate Hinges

1. Hinge Assy- Tailgate Upper on Body
2. Bushing -Tailgate Counter Balance Torsion Bar on Body
3. Bracket T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body
4. Retainer T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body
5. Cable Assy - T /gate Check
6. Hinge Assy - T /gate Lower R H
7. Striker Assy- T/gate Upper Latch LH
8. Striker Assy - T /gate Lower Lock
9. Shim
A Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft.
B Spacer T/gate Upper Hinge on Body
C
D
E.
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
P
Sealer Grey or Black .19 Dia. or Bulk 14 Places

Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft.
Bolt-washer Head Shoulder -Torque 17-27 lbs. ft.
Washer - Flat
Bolt Truss Head -Torque 17-27 lbs. ft .
Spring - T /gate Check Cable R H
Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft.
Nut & Washer Assy -Torque 25-38 lbs. ft .
Shim
Screw - Tor que 17-27 lbs. ft.
Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs. ft.
Shim
17-51
AnrtJ9J'MEJI1' ~ IATCI COift'AOL AKD JWIDL SY$ ':)t

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WITH CO!ri'ROL AS311eLI, I'l'DI 9 1 LOOSE, ftE
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Kill lWIJl'.aWD M.\liTA.llfl~ TilE A.1JOVS CC*DI
"D", ROl'AT! COIRROL ASSDOLT TO REMOVE ~CK
TICIIS. '10 Carlt ADJ\Jrmal'
~:CT!~ CCJWmOL ASSICBLY A'M'ACHJNC PAin'S,
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ALL
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IE
waiCAftD ~E ASSDIBLT WITI (ESBIUC93A) <II AJPTDIWIJIDS 1111'1 ( ESIIIUClo6) WliiiCAifl'.
,_,91'
/8
APPLT (S8-MlC9)A) WliiiCAIT A'l!

AltUS "W"', x" " Y".
FIG. 17-Dual Tailgate Lock Mechanism

1. Hinge Assy -Tailgate Upper on Body
2. Rod - Door Lock Control LH
3. Rod - Door Lock to Handle
4. Rod- Door Lock Control RH
5. Lock - Assy Upper LH
6. Bushing- Torsion Bar
7. Cover-T/gate Access Hole
8. Retainer- Torsion Bar
9. Control Assy - Door Lock
10. Torsion Bar Assy

11. Valve- T/gate Drain
12. Hinge Assy- Lower RH on Body
13. Hinge Assy- Lower RH on T/gate
14. Bracket - T /gate Torsion Bar Link
15. Rod- T/gate Safety Release
16. Rod- Lower Left Lock
17. Lock Assy- Lower LH
18. Grommet- T/gate Handle Rod
17-52
DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE POWER

WINDOW SWITCH AND MANUAL
CONTROL HANDLE
Removal and installation procedures for manual and power window
control handle and switch are the
same as for single action tailgates.
See Page 17-43
DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE
HINGESUpper Right Hinge
1. Open the tailgate (horizontally,
as a dropgate) and scribe a location
mark around that part of hinge to be
replaced.
2. Remove the hinge retainer
screws.
3. Position the hinge to the scribe
marks and install the retainer screws.
lower Right Hinge
1. Open the tailgate (horizontally,
as a dropgate) and position a support
under the hinge side of the gate.
2. Remove the torsion bar link.
3. Scribe the hinge location on
the body and the tailgate. Remove
the hinge retainer screws and remove
the hinge.
4. Position the hinge to the body
and tailgate scribe marks and install
the hinge retainer screws.
5. Close the tailgate and check
for proper lower hinge alignment.
Adjust the hinge if necessary.
6. Reconnect the torsion bar link .
LATCHESleft lower latch
1. Open the tailgate (side opening).
Remove the tailgate trim panel, watershield and access panel.
2. Disconnect the linkage from
the latch. Remove the three retaining
screws and remove the latch.
3. Transfer the linkage retainer
clips to the new latch. Position the
latch in the gate and install the retainer screws.
4. Install the linkage to the latch.
Install the access cover, watershield
and trim panel.
left Upper latch
1. Open the tailgate (side opening).
Remove the tailgate trim panel, water-
shield and access panel.

2. Engage the upper latch pawl to
the closed position and raise the
window partially out of the gate.
Remove the regulator arms from
the window regulator channel and
remove the window assembly.
3. Disconnect the linkage at the
upper latch. Remove the wire connector from the upper latch safety switch.
4. Remove the right guide upper
retainer bolt. Remove the three
screws, retaining the latch and remove
the latch assembly.
5. Transfer the linkage retainer
clips and the safety switch to the new
latch assembly.
6. Position the latch in the gate
and install the latch retainer screws.
Install the window guide upper retainer bolt.
7. Connect the wire connector to
the switch and connect the linkage
to the Ia tch.
in the gate and install the regulator
arms to the regulator channel. Close
latch pawl to engage the switch and
lower the window into the tailgate.
9. Install the tailgate access panel,
watershield, and trim panel. Open the
upper latch and close the tailgate.
Check the latch alignment to the
striker. Adjust the latch striker if
necessary.
TORSION BAR
1. Lower the tailgate vertically
and remove the torsion bar link and
the torsion bar to tailgate brackets
and bolts along the tailgate lower edge.
NOTE : The torsion bar will be under
light tension at this stage.
2. Remove the torsion bar from
the vehicle.
VERTICAL LATCH RELEASE
HANDLE1. Remove the rod retainer from
the rod at the latch release handle.
2. Remove two screws attaching
the latch release handle to the tailgate.
Disengage the handle from the rod
and remove the handle.
3. Position the latch release handle
to the tailgate and rod, and install the
two attaching screws.
4. Install the rod retainer at the
release handle.
VERTICAL LATCH RELEASE
CONTROL
Removal
1. Remove the interior trim panel
from the tailgate.
2. Raise the glass part way out of
the tailgate.
3. Disconnect the three links
(rods) from the latch release control
(Fig. 17).
4. Remove three latch release control attaching screws, and remove the
control from the tailgate.
Installation
1. Position the latch release control to the tailgate and install the
three attaching screws snug.
2. Connect the three links (rods)
to the latch release control.
3. Lower the glass and adjust the
latch release control.
4. Install the trim panel on the
tailgate.
DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE .
HORIZONTAL LA TCK RELEASE
(OUTSIDE) HANDLE Removal
1. Remove the interior trim panel
and access cover from the tailgate.
2. Remove the glass and channel
assembly from the tailgate.
3. Remove two nuts retaining the
handle to the tailgate. Remove the
handle bracket and handle from the
tailgate
4. Remove the lock cylinder from
the handle.
Installation
1. Install the lock cylinder in the
outside handle.
2. Position the outside handle and
handle bracket to the tailgate and install the two retaining nuts (Fig. IS.).
3. Install the glass and channel
assembly.
4. Install the access cover and the
trim panel on the tailgate.
TAILGATE WINDOW REGULATOR

The procedure for removal of the
Dual action tailgate glass and regulator
assembly is the same as for single
action tailgates. See Page 17-43

DECK LID HINGE OR
TORSION BAR
REMOVAL
1. Prop the deck lid open.
2. Mark the hinge position on the

lid and on the mounting bracket for
reference when a new hinge is installed.
3. Pry the anchor end of the
torsion bar out of its adjustment
notch (Fig. 14). Lower the deck lid
and from inside the luggage compartment remove the bar.

4. Position a cover under the hinge
edge of the deck lid to prevent
paint damage. Remove the hinge
attaching bolt from the deck lid and
from the mounting bracket, and
remove the hinge.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the hinge, and partially
tighten the mounting bolts.
2. Remove the protective cover
and install the torsion bar, reversing
the procedure in step 3 above. The
17-53
farther rearward the anchor end is

twisted, the greater the tension.
3. Remove the prop and check
the lid position. After any necessary
adjustment, tighten the hinge attaching bolts.
DECK LID LOCK
1. Unlock and open the deck lid.
2. Remove the bolts retaining the
lock assembly and remove the lock.
3. Position the lock assembly t<'
the deck lid and loosely install the
retaining bolts.
4. Adjust the lock assembly and
tighten the bolts.
DECK LID LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL
1. Open the deck lid and remove
the lock assembly and the door lock
extension.
2. Remove the sleeve assembly retaining nut, lock washer, spacer, and
sleeve and cylinder (Fig. 18)
3. To remove the lock cylinder
from the sleeve assembly, turn the
key in the cylinder Vs turn clockwise
from the locked position, depress the
cylinder retaining pin, and remove
the key and cylinder.
INSTALLATION
1. To install the lock cylinder
and insert the cylinder into the
sleeve assembly.
1. Position the sleeve assembly
turn the key in the cylinder Vs turn
clockwise from the locked position
spacer, and washer to the deck lid
door and install the retaining nut:
3. Position the door lock extension, install the lock assembly and
adjust it.
FIG. 18-Deck Lid Lock Installation

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1.
A
B
Weatherstrip - Luggage Compt. Door

Latch Assy - Luggage Compt. Door
Retainer - Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder
Pad- Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder
Extension- Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder
Lock Set
Striker- Luggage Compartment Door Lock
Adhesive -Apply a .25 Max. Bead to Bottom of Weatherstrip Trough
Adhesive -Apply a .093 approx. Bead Under Outboard Lip of Luggage
Compartment Weatherstrip After Installation of Weatherstrip in Trough.
Application of Adhesive Must Extend Downward on Vertical Surface
as Shown in View "A"
C Screw & Washer Assy
D Screw & Washer Assy
17-54
POWER WINDOWS
DESCRIPTION
Each door window is controlled
by a separate switch set into the door
trim panel. The rear and front
passenger windows can also be con-
trolled from the master switch panel

in the driver's door.
Included in the master switch
panel is a "lock out" switch which
prevents operation of the rear and
front passenger windows by the
individual door switches.

Wiring schematics for power win
dows are in Group 22, Fig. 2 of
this manual.
Wiring and switch installation is
as shown in Fig. 20 21 of this part.
DOOR AND QUARTER

POWER WINDOWS
Before making any of the following

trouble checks, mare sure that the
battery is fully charged, and turn
the ignition switch to the accessory
position.
ALL WINDOWS DO NOT
OPERATE
1. Connect a voltmeter or test
light from a ground to the power
window relay red/blue wire which is
connected to the 20-ampere circuit
breaker attached to the battery terminal of the starting motor relay.
If no voltage is available, repair or
replace the 20-ampere circuit breaker
or the connecting black wire.
2. Connect a voltmeter from a
ground to the red wire terminal of
the power window relay. If no voltage
is available, repair or replace the
ignition switch or the red wire from
the ignition switch to the relay.
3. Connect a voltmeter from a
ground to the remaining terminal
blue wire of the power window relay. If no voltage is available,
replace the power window relay.
4. Check the blue wire at the
master control switch for voltage. If
no voltage is available, repair or
replace the blue wire from
the master control switch to the
power window relay.
5. At this point the trouble caus-
ing all windows not to operate should

have been found and corrected. The
chances of having all of the control
switches, ground circuit breakers,
switch to motor wires, or motor
defective at the same time are very
remote.
ONE WINDOW DOES NOT
OPERATE
1. Activate the switch and listen
for the motor running free. If tb,e
motor runs and the window does not
move, the rubber coupling or gear
teeth have failed.
2. If the motor does not run, disconnect the wires at the motor in
order to check for voltage at each
feed wire while actuating the window
switch at the door or from the master
switch. If there is no voltage at the
motor feed terminals, check for voltage at the switch feed wire. If there
is voltage at the switch, replace the
switch.
WINDOW OPERATES IN
ONE DIRECTION ONLY
1. Check the operation with the
individual and master switches. Replace a defective switch if the window
operates normally from one and not
from the other.
2. If the window will not function
correctly from either switch, check
for defective wiring between the
switch disconnects and the motor.

If the wiring leads are open, replace
the wiring.
3. If the window operates normally in one direction, the motor is
not defective.
WINDOW OPERATES
SLUGGISHLY
1. Check the regulator and window runs for binding. Adjust the
runs, repair and lubricate the regulator. Lubricate the runs with silicone
lubricant.
2. Check for frayed insulation
where the window wires may partially
ground. Check for loose connections
which will cause high resistance, and
make sure that paint is not insulating
the ground wires.
3. Check motor current draw during operation (place an ammeter in
series with the ground lead of the
battery). Motor current draw should
not exceed 12 amperes during normal
operation and should exceed 20
amperes at stall. If the current draw
is above 12 amperes during operation
of the window, readjust the glass
mechanism. If the stall current is
below 20 amperes at stall, look for
poor electrical connections.
4. Motor current draw when disconnected from the regulator plate
should not exceed 5 amperes.
EJ
17-SS
POWER WINDOW RELAY
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the ground cable
from the battery.
the relay to the right side of the dash
panel in the engine compartment.
3. Disconnect the wires from the
relay and remove the relay.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the wires to the relay.
2. Position the relay to the dash
panel and install the two attaching
screws.
3. Connect the battery ground
cable, and check the operation of the
power window(s).
POWER WINDOW SWITCH
1. Remove the trim panel.

2. Disconnect the wire connector
from the window switch.
3. Remove the switch attaching
screws and remove the switch from
the trim panel.
4. Position the switch and retainer
to the trim panel and install the
attaching screws.
5. Connect the wire connector to
the window switch and install the
trim panel.
FRONT DOOR WINDOW
REGULATOR-AND / OR MOTOR
REMOVAL
1. Reinove the trim panel and
watershield from the door.
the regulator arm roller bracket to
the door inner panel and remove the
bracket.
3. Disconnect the motor wires at
the connector.
4. Remove the motor bracket-todoor inner panel attaching screw.
5. Remove four screws attaching
the window regulator to the door
inner panel. Support the glass and
channel assembly and disengage the
regulator arm roller from the glass
channel. Then, lay the window regulator in the bottom of the door panel.
6. Remove the lower stop from
the door inner panel.
assembly from the door.
8. If equipped with electric windows, mount the regulator assembly

in a vise. Drill a -& inch hole through
the regulator sector gear and the
regulator plate (Fig. 19). Install a
l inch bolt and nut in the hole to
prevent the sector gear from moving
~hen the motor and drive assembly
1s removed. Remove the motor
assembly from the regulator.
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate the glass mechanism:
2. Position the motor and transmission to the regulator and install
the three attaching screws.
3. Position the regulator assembly
in the door.
4. Insert the front run and retainer
into the vent window division bar.
5. Position the glass and channel
assembly in the front and rear runs.
Raise .e glass and support in the
up position. Install the washer and
nut on the vent window division bar
lower adjusting screw.
6. Insert the regulator arm roller
in the glass channel bracket. Then
position the regulator assembly to
the door inner panel and install the
four attaching screws.
7. Position the regulator arm roller
bracket to the regulator arm roller
and the door inner panel and install

the two attaching screws.
8. Position the motor bracket to
door inner panel and install attaching
screw. Connect the motor wires and
fit trim panel.
REAR DOOR WINDOW
REGULATOR- AND/OR MOTOR
REMOVAL
watershield from the door.
2. Disconnect the motor wires at
the connector.
3. Remove the equalizer arm
bracket from die door inner panel.
4. Support the glass and channel
assembly and remove the three glass
channel bracket attaching screws.
Separate the glass channel bracket
from the regulator arm rollers.
5. Remove the screw attaching the
motor bracket to the door inner
panel.
6. Remove four window regulator
attaching screws and remove the
regulator from the door.
7. Remove the motor from the
regulator. If equipped with electric
windows, mount the regulator assembly in a vise. Drill a -& inch hole
through the regulator sector gear and
the regulator plate (Fig. 19). Install
a ! inch bolt and nut in the hole to
prevent the sector gear from moving
REGULATOR ARM ASSEMBLY
ORILL 5/ 16" OIAMETER HOLE THROUGH WINDOW

REGULA TOR SECTOR GEAR AND PLATE .
FIG. 19:- Motor and Drive Assembly Removal Precaution
17-56
GROUP 17- BODY
when the motor and drive assembly

is removed. Remove the motor
assembly from the regulator.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the motor on the window
regulator.
2. Position the window regulator
in the door and engage the regulator
arm rollers in the glass channel
DOORS AND WINDOWS.
bracket.
3. Position the window regulator
to the door inner panel and install
the four attaching screws.
4. Install the motor bracket to
door inner panel attaching screw.
5. Insert the regulator arm roller
in the equalizer arm bracket. Position
the bracket to the inner panel and
install the two attaching screws.
6. Position the glass channel bracket to the glass channel and install
the three attaching screws.
7. Connect the motor wires at the
connector.
8. Remove the window support
and check the operation of the
window mechanism.
9. Install the watershield and trim
panel on the door.
EltiSrllfb- WIKINC. Hllfii(.SS
r. r. (),..
; 1 1 I
I I
'-""'"
I. iUJ.AYASSY.
l. WIA!NS ASSY. ~lAY
3. IYW,Yii AfSY. ~ELAY
I . CIACV/T MEAK1. AJSY

S. GA.OMMET
FIG. 20- Relay and Wiring Installation
VIEW 8
(j)
: .-ICif AND ltOU.JIIfG A.U,Y
~
~
MOliN11NO l'f.AtC (MI,Tfi"IJ).

OHM11 llflQD
l#lllfCN ~D .OW.,_G A,U Y
MOI.IN11/116 hATe f.l""-ll)

! UI"' l
11/f/ltiN(; ASSYfOWl!l WIN/XJII/f
C>
11/llfiM.US:'I'OM'A"WI/IIDOW
<!>
"'fliNG A,SJY , _ , , ft/WOO#II
C>
\1.~14'
Detail of circle "B"
(A"
, , .,,_. .. $.)
Q)
Detail of circle "A "
IUQ"b
(~111
COit,.C1101f)
Y IOMit WIIO.J#I
.. .-..ur-~
"'
, , ,,,.,, .._. y . l'()/lllflffll"'t/M.IItl
C)
17-57
JJ7:!7 j ., l
WIN<W
IIUIIIIC llltlt
POWER WINDOW
MOTOR & SWITCH WIRING
FIG. 21- Door Switch and Wiring Installation
0
UIACIICT .tlliST IJ I'IOUNTD TO
WI/IDSHICLO WITHIN r 3 DC61/US
"'I WlltDSII/LD C1f11(LJN
FIG. 22.RKKT lfi.IST IU IJNISNED
REAR VISION MIRROR.
ON CONTACTIN6 3UIVACI
~~~ ASSIMtl~
../
~
'(:/
FOR XA 5[0AN,
.....
VJ
00
POWER TAILGATE DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
NOTES: THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE

DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE
OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED
FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED
TESTING DEVICES .
DURING DIAGNOSIS ALL CONNECTIONS MUST
BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
STATION WAGON POWER BACK LITE

DOES NOT OPERATE WITH EITHER
SWITCH (INSTRUMENT PANEL OR
TAILGATE KEY I
NOTE : BAlTERY SHOULD BE

FULLY CHARGED (ABOVE
1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY)
G')
c:
.,
-':-1
PERFORM POWER WINDOW RELAY AND

CONTROL CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS AS
OUTLINED ON CHART 1 IALl POWER
WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE)
NOTE : VEHIClES WITH OTHER
FUNCTIONAL POWER WINDOWS
OR POWER SEATS WILl NOT
REQUIRE THIS CHECK
'~
AT THE POWER WINDOW RElAY BATTERY
TERMINAl ASSURE CONNECTION OF THE
DIRECT BATTERY FE. EO BETWEEN THE
POWER WINDOW RElAY AND THE TAilGATE
KE'f SWITCH
:;10
(/)
CHECK THE PRIMARY GROUND CIRCUIT

THROUGH THE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH
AND TO THE GROUND ATTACHMENT
REPAIR THE PRIMARY GROUND CIRCUIT

AND/OR REPlACE THE INSTRUMENT PANEl
SWITCH TO ASSURE GROUND FOR THE
TOTAl SYSTEM
WITH IGNITION SWITCH AT ""ON " OR ACCESSORY

CHECK FOR FEED TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL
SWITCH FROM POWER WINDOW RElAY
.,,...
POWER TAILGATE DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Cont.)
::a
-t
......
I
w
I
80
;Q
,C/'1
RECONNECT THE CONNECTOR TO THE
INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH CHECK
THE FEED CIRCUITS WITH AN AMMETER
WHilE ACTUATING THE SWITCH If

BACKLIT MOTOR IS LABORING AND
DRAWI N G CURRENT . PROCEED AS '0 K .
!IG NIT IO N SWITCH ON !
'~
OK
CHECK THE TAILGATE LIMIT SWITCH

CONTINUITY
CONNECTOR ATTACHMENT
ADJUSTMENT
OPERATI ON OF PLUNGER
DISCONNECT MOTOR IN TAILGATE AND

CONNECT EXTERNAl POWER SOURCE TO
THE MOTOR CONNECTOR (S) lUP OR DOWN
FEED I AND CHECK WITH AMMETER
IF
MOT O R IS LABORING AND DRAWING CURRENT ,

PROCEED AS o K "
r-
~
--f
m
CHECK THE CONTINUITY OF THE
TWO CONTROL CIRCUITS BETWEEN
THE BACKLIT KEY SWITCH AND

THE MOTOR CONNECTOR
REMOVE THE REGULATOR ASSY WITH MOTOR

AND DRIVE ASSY !SEE SHOP MANUAL I AND
CHECK OPERATION WITH EXTERNAL POWER
SOURCE ISEE ''MOTOR TEST "l
)>
0
0
DISCONNECT THE MOTOR CONNECTOR AND

CHECK FOR FEED AT BOTH TERMINAlS
WHILE ACTUATING THE BACK liTE KEY
SWITCH USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
HGNITION SW . OFF & LIMIT SW CLOSEOl
()
~
r-
0
REMOVE DRIVE ASSEMBlY WORM GEAR AND
REPLACE WITH APPliCABLE SERVICE GEAR KIT
......
I
VI
\()
-.....
I
POWER TAILGATE AND DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
0\
NOTES
CHECK AND REPAIR THE OPEN

BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT BETWEEN
THE POWER WINDOW RELAY 6 THE
BACK UTE KEY SWITCH
THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE

OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CAllED
TESTING DEVICES
DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST

AT THE BACKLIT KEY SWITCH

CHECK FOR FEED IN BOTH CONTROL
CIRCUITS WHILE OPERATING THE
INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH
UGNITION SWITCH ONI
,.,
G')
NOTE
STATION WAGON POWER BACK UTE

DOES NOT OPERATE WITH THE
TAILGATE KEY SWITCH BUT DOES
CHECK CONTINUITY OF THE TWO

FEED - GROUND CIRCUITS BETWEEN
THE BACK LITE KEY SWITCH AND
BATTERY SHOULD BE
WITH THE INSTRUMENT PANEL

SWITCH
INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH
.,
-.....
I
o:J
0
0
,-<
AT THE POWER WINDOW RELAY BATTERY

TERMINAL CHECK CONNECTION OF THE
DIRECT BATTERY FEED BETWEEN THE
POWER WINDOW RELAY AND THE TAILGATE
KEY SWITCH
;;o
(/')
UNDERINSTRUMENTPANELCHECKFOR
PROPER CONNECTION AND/OR FEED AT
THE CONNECTOR lSI FOR THE TAILGATE
WINDOW AND POWER SEATS, IIF SO
EOUIPPEDJ USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
)>
REPAIR OPEN FEED CIRCUIT BETWEEN

THE POWER WINDOW RELAY BATTERY
FEED TERMINAL lOR STARTER MOTOR
RELAY I AND THE CONNECTOR lSI UNDER
THE INSTRUMENT PANEL
CHECK AND REPAIR THE

OPEN BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT
BETWEEN THE KEY SWITCH ANO
INSTRUMENT PANEL CONNECTOR
REPAIR OR REPLACE
THE TAILGATE KEY
SWITCH & WIRING
ASSY AS REOUIREO
POWER TAILGATE AND DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
,).
,.,-4
......
I
NOTES

TESTING DEVICES
STATION WAGON POWER BACK LITE

DOES NOT OPERATE WITH TltE
INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH BUT
DOES WITH 1 AILGATE KEY SWITCH
NOTE : BATTERY SHOULD BE

1 .225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY I
w
I
0
0
0
;;o
Ul
VEHICLES WITH POWER BACK LITE ONlY

PROCEED WITH THE SAME DIAGNOSIS ON
CHART 1 !All POWER WINDOWS DO NOT
OPERATE) FOR POWER WINDOW RELAY &
CONTROl CIRCUITS THEN. IF NECESSARY ,
FOLLOW DIAGNOSIS BELOW
VEHICLE WITH OTHER POW A WINDOWS AND

POWER SEATS THAT OPERATE tPOWE R WOW.
RELAY FE:. ED OK I
'~
--i
)>
r-
G)
)>
--i
)>
0
0
()
NOTE
FEED CIRCUITS BETWEEN THE

INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH AND
THE TAILGATE SWITCH AND MOTOR
ARE 0 K. IN THIS CONDITION
SINCE THEY ARE USED FOR GROUND
CIRCUITS FOR THE TWO MOTOR
DIRECTIONS OPERATING BY THE
TAILGATE KEY SWITCH
""'
r-
......
I
0\
.....
I
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
All POWER WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE

NOTE ; BATTERY SHOULD BE

TESTING DEVICES
C)
~
TURN IGNITION SWITCH TO THE "ON '' OR ACCESSOftY POSITION

CHECK FOR FEED THROUGH THE POWER WINDOW RELAY FROM
BATTERY USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
OK
ON VEHICLES SO EQUIPPED
CHECK THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IN
THE FEED CIRCUIT FROM THE POWER
WINDOW RELAY
c.,
.....
I
OJ
0
0
0
0
;10
(/)
)>
~
AS REQUIRED
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
.,,....
~
NOTES:

-f
ONE POWER WINDOW DOES NOT OPERATE

WITH MASTER AND /OR INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
NOTE . BATTERY SHOULD BE

FULLY CHARGED lABOVE

TESTING DEVICES
.....

0
0
:;o
!.ll
ACTl.JA TE THE INDIVIDUAL WINDOW SWITCH

AND CHECK FOR FEED AT EACtl HRMINAL
OF THE MOTOR CONNECTOR USING A 12
VOLT TESTER
OK
CONNECT EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE TO THE

MOTOR CONNECTOR(S) (UP OR DOWN FEED)
AND CHECK WITH AMMETER . IF MOTOR IS
LABORING AND DRAWING CURRENT, PROCEED
AS " O.K ."
OK
REMOVE THE REGULATOR ASSY WITH MOTOR
AND DRIVE ASSY . lSEE SHOP MANUAL! AND
CHECK OPERATION WITH EXTERNAL POWER

SOURCE !SEE "MOTOR TEST " I
y')
-i
)>
rG)
)>
-i
)>
0
m
()
~
rREMOVE DRIVE ASSEMBLY WORM GEAR AND

REPLACE WITH APPLICABLE SERVICE GEAR
KIT FOR All CAR LINES AND MODELS
EXCEPT THUNOERBIROS PRIOR TO 1970
WHICH Will REQUIRE COMPLETE MOTOR
AND DRIVE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
.....
l
(]\
UJ
......
I
"'
~
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
NOTE : BATTERY SHOULD BE
FULLY CHARGED lABOVE

1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY!
:a
0
c
.,

TESTING DEVICES
......

ONE POWER WINDOW OPERATES

THROUGH INDIVIDUAl SWITCH
BUT NOT WITH MASTER CONTROL
SWITCH
OJ
0
0
-<
CHECK FEED CIRCUIT TO THE
AFFECTED CONTROL SWITCH IN

THE MASTER CONTROL SWITCH
ASSEMBLY . USING 12 VOLT TESTER
8
::10
(j')
)>
CHECK THE FEED CIRCUITS FROM

MASTER SWITCH FOR THE AFFECTED
WINDOW CIRCUITS AT THE MASTER
CONTROL SWITCH WIRING , USING
A. 12 VOLT TESTER
z
0
:E
LOCATE CMI'EN FEED CIRCUIT

IN HARNESS BETWEEN THE
"LOCK OUT" SWITCH AND THE

AFFECTED INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
AND REPAIR AS REQUIRED

NOTE FEED CIRCUITS BETWEEN THE
MASTER CONTROL SWITCH A.ND THE
INDIVIDUAL SWITCH ARE GOOD IN
THIS CONDITION SINCE THEY ARE
USED FOR GROUND CIRCUITS FOR THE
TWO MOTOR DIRECTIONS OPERATING
BY THE INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
THE INDIVIDUAL SWITCH IS ALSO
GOOD SINCE IT OPERATES THE
WINDOW IN EITHER DIRECTION
TRIM &SEATS
GROUP
18
PAGE
PART 18-1-
Interior Trim and Vinyl Top Cover 18-2
PART 18-2-
Seats
18-6
18-2
PART
18-1
INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER

Page
Section
1 Door and Quarter Trim Panels .. ........ .. .... 18--2

2 Headlining ............................. . .... 18--2
Page
3 Instrument Panel Safety Cover . . .......... ..... 18- -4

4 Roof Outside Cover ...... .. ...... ... ......... 18- -4
DOOR TRIM PANELS
REMOVAL

handle and the door inside handle.
2. Remove the arm rest retaining
screws.
3. With a putty knife or similar
tool, pry the trim panel retaining
clips out of the inner panel and
remove the trim.
On models fitted with 'roll top'
door trim panels the lock control
knob must be removed before attempting to remove the trim.
4. Remove the water shield.
Section
INSTALLATION
1. Place a ring of sealer around

the window regulator and door
handle shaft holes.
in place along the top edge of the

trim panel and install the trim panel
by pushing the retaining clips into
the holes in the door inner panel.
2. Fasten the water shield to the

inner panel (Fig. 1).
3. Make sure that all sleeves are
installed in the inner panel and that
all the retaining clips are installed in
the trim panel.
4. Ensure that the finish strip 1s
5: Install the arm rest retaining

screws.
6. Place the friction plates against
the trim panel and install the window
regulator handle. Install the door
inside handle.
HEADLINING
REMOVAL
2. Remove the finish strip from

the windshield header flange .
an) or rear quarter windows (station

wagon) and unstick the headlining
from the flange( s). Refer to Section
17-3 for rear window removal procedure. With the station wagon,
remove the rear quarter panel trim
mouldings and the tail-gate window
glass top channel.
3. Pull the door opening finish

strips down far enough to provide
access to the headlining perimeter.
9. Peel the headlining from the

windshield header flange and the
door openings.
1. Remove the sun visors, rear

view mirror and centre pillar headlining cover.
4. Remove the rear seat cushion

and seat back (sedan).
10. Unhook the headlining support rods and remove the headlining
assembly from the car.
INSTALLATION
5. Remove the rear package tray

trim panel (sedan).
6. Remove the coat hooks and the
interior light lens assembly.
7. Unhook the headlining from

the rear quarter retaining strips
(sedan).
8. Rem6ve the rear window (sed-
1. Unpack and lay out the new

headlining.
2. Transfer the support rods from
the old headlining to the new one,
ensuring that they are located in the
correct position.
3. With the headlining in the car,
insert the support rod ends into their
respective retaining holes in the roof

side rails. Make sure that the headlining rear support hooks are in
position, and that the material is taut
between supports.
4. Apply a strip of trim adhesive
to the face of the windshield header
flange.
Apply trim adhesive to the inside
of the windshield header flange, the
top and sides of the back window
flange and the door flanges. Adhesive
should also be applied to the perimeter of the headlining.
5. Stretch the headlining forward

and adhere it to the centre of the
windshield header flange across a
width of about 20".
6. Working outwards, stretch and
adhere the headlining across to one
windshield pillar and then to the
other.
PART 18-1-INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER
AA
FIG. 1 - Door Trim Panel and Water Shield- Typical
18-3
18-4
GROUP 18- TRIM AND SEATS
7. Stretch the headlining out and

adhere it to the door flanges on each
side, working from front to rear.
Where necessary, cut nicks in the
lining to prevent puckering.
8. Stretch the rear edge of the

headlining to the centre section of
the rear window flange and adhere
a section approximately 20" wide.
Stretch the lining out and adhere it
to the rest of the top and sides of the
flange, working out from the centre.
Cut three nicks in the lining at each
corner of the rear window to prevent
puckering.
9. Stretch the front edge of the

material at the quarter panel to the
rear edge of the door flange and
adhere.
EJ
10. Stretch the lining down at the

lower front edge of the quarter panel
and hook it over the retainer tabs.
11. Position the retaining strip

over the rear edge of the quarter
panel lining and pull down over the
lanced tabs. Secure the tabs (sedan).
14. Replace the coathooks and the

interior light lens assembly.
15. Replace the rear package tray

trim panel, the rear seat back and the
rear seat cushion (sedan).
16. Replace the rear quarter panel
tr~m mouldings and the tail-gate
wmdow glass top channel (station

wagon).
12. Trim excess lining material

from the roof side rail and back
window or rear quarter window
flanges.
13. Replace the rear window (sedan) or rear quarter windows (station
wagon). Refer to Section 17-3 for
the correct procedure.
17. Reposition the door opening

finish strips and replace the centre
pillar headlining cover and the finish
strip on the windshield header flange.
18. Replace the sun visors and
rear view mirror.
19. Clean the interior and headlining.
INSTRUMENT PANEL SAFETY COVER
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
1. Open the glove box door. Remove the glove box liner retaining
screws and remove the glove box
liner.
1. Position the new safety cover to

the instrument panel (Fig. 2).
2. Install the safety cover retaining
screws.
Replace the trim cover at the right
hand end of the instrument panel.
3. Position the instrument cluster
housing into the panel and fit screws.

housing Refer part 15-4
3. Remove the trim cover from the
right hand end of the instrument
panel.
4. Remove the screws retaining the
safety cover to the instrument panel.
5. Pry up and remove the safety
cover.
EJ
4. Position the glove box liner in

place and install the glove box liner
retaining screws.
ROOF OUTSIDE COVER
REMOVAL

and back.
2. Remove the package tray panel
and loosen the headlining in the
quarter area sufficiently to permit
access to the side belt moulding
retainer nuts.
3. Remove the side and rear belt
mouldings.
4. Remove the side, top and bottom
wmdshield outside mouldings.
5. Remove the drip rail mouldings.
6. Remove the outside cover retainer strips from the drip rails.
7. Cut the cover away from the

drive nails at the windshield and rear
window openings, remove the screws
at the seams of the cover, and remove
the cover from the roof.
8. Remove the old adhesive from
the roof area with a scraper or use
an appropriate cleaning solvent. It is
extremely important that the
entire roof and drip rails are
thoroughly cleaned.
INSTALLATION
It is recommended that the existing

drive nails be left in position and the
new cover be retained with drive

nails installed adjacent to the old
nails. Therefore each location should
be identified with a wax crayon.
1. Carefully measure and mark the
centre of the vehicle roof.
2. Carefully position the outside
cover on the roof panel. (Fore and
Aft centre punch marks have been
provided in the cover for centering
purposes.)
3. With the cover properly positioned and temporarily secured, fold
back approximately half the cover
and apply an even coating of adhesive
to the roof panel and a like amount
PART 18-1- INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER
18-5
FIG. 2-lnstrument Panel Safety Cover Installation

to the corresponding area of the
roof outside cover assembly. For
best results, secure limited sections
at a time. Make certain that the
adhesive is not lumpy as it will be
objectionable from an appearance standpoint.
Stretch out all wrinkles progressively.
4. Drill or punch drive nail holes
at windshield and rear window openings and install drive nails. Existing
holes may be used for the screws at
each seam.
5. Trim the excess cover material
from around the entire perimeter.
6. Using a fibre or wood block
snap the outside cover retainers into
place in the drip rail trough.
7. Install the drip rail mouldings.
FIG. 3-0utside Cover Installation-Typical
8. Install the rear and side belt

mouldings.
9. Reposition and secure the headlining.
10. Install the package tray panel,
rear seat squab and cushion.
11. Install the windshield exterior
mouldings.
18-6
PART
18-2
SEATS
Section
1
Pare
~nch
Seats - Removal and Installation

Seat and Seat Track ....
Front Seat Cushion and Back
Rear Seat Cushion and Back
Front Seat Cushion Cover
Rear Seat Cushion Cover
Front Seat Back Cover
186
186
18-6
18-6
18-6
188
18-8
Section
Pare
Rear Seat Back Cover
.... .... .. .. .. .. .... .. ..
2 Bucket Seats - Removal and Installation

Front Seat and Seat Track .. .. .. ..
Front Seat Cushion Cover
Front Seat Back Cover .. .. .. ..
Rear Seat Cushion Cover
Seat Belts- General Information
188
1811
18-11
1811
18-12
18-14
.18-14
BENCH SEATS
SEAT AND SEAT TRACK

Work, other than that of minor
nature, is more easily performed
when the front seat assembly is
removed from the car.
1. Remove the nuts retaining the
seat tracks to the floor pan. Lift
the seat assembly from the car
(Fig. I) and disconnect and remove
the release cable.
2. Remove the seat tracks from
the seat frame.
3. Transfer the seat adjusting
lever knob and the retracting springs,
if necessary, to the new track
assembly.
4. Position the seat tracks on the
seat frame and install the retaining
bolts and release cable.
5. Position the seat assembly in
the car and install the retaining bolts
and nuts.
Release Cable Adjustment. Release cable maladjustment will affect only the side of the seat. In
case the latch retaining the track
fails to release, turn the release
cable turnbuckle or eye bolt enough
turns to shorten the release cable
travel sufficiently to release the
track latch. If the latch fails to
secure the seat travel, turn the
release cable turnbuckle or eye bolt
to lengthen the release cable enough
to allow the latch to snap in the
locking position.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION

AND/OR BACK
1. Remove the front seat and seat
track from the car if the cushion is to
be replaced.
2. To replace the seat cushion,
remove the seat assembly from 'the
seat track.
3. Remove the bolts and washers
attaching the seat back to the seat
cushion frame. Before being able
to remove the attaching bolts, it is
necessary to remove the seat backs
and seat cushion trim from the
bolts.
4. Position the seat back assembly on the seat. Install the bolts
and washers attaching the seat
back to the seat and fasten the
seat back and seat cushion cover
trim with hog rings.
5. Position the seat cushion on the
seat track and install the retaining
bolts if removed.
6. Install the front seat and seat
track in the car.
REAR SEAT CUSHION

AND/OR BACK
1. Lift the front edge of the rear

seat cushion and pull it forward to
remove it from the car.
2. Remove 2 rear seat back attaching screws located at the bottom of

the seat back.
3. Lift up on the seat back to disengage the seat from the upper
hooks and remove the seat back from
the car.
4. Position the seat back in the car
and engage the seat with the upper
hooks.
5. Install the seat back lower
retaining screws. Then install the
rear seat cushion.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION

COVER
Fig. 2 shows a front seat cushion
build-up. Seat cushions for all models
are built-up in basically the same
manner. Therefore, when installing
new seat cushion covers or pads,
refer to Fig. 2 for the location of
listing wires, hog rings, anti-squeak
pads, and seat pad stack-up.
1. Remove the seat and seat track
assembly.
2. Remove the bolts and washers
attaching the seat back to the seat
cushion frame.
3. Remove the seat back assembly.
4. Remove the hog rings retaining
the seat cushion cover and remove
the cover (Fig. 2). Inspect the pad
and replace it if necessary.
PART 18-2- SEATS
18-7
61~ - A
rUONT SCAT
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FIG. 1-Front Seat Tracks
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18-8
GROUP 18 TRIM AND SEATS
FIG. 2-Front Seat Cushion

5. Transfer the listing wires to the
new cover.
6. With the seat cushion assembly
right side up, make sure that the pads
are stacked properly and centered;
then place the cover over the pads to
hold them in position.
7. Carefully turn the seat assembly over so that the pads do not shift
out of position.
8. After centering the cover and
straightening the seams along the
front edge of the cushion, fasten the
cover to the front of the seat frame
with hog rings . Make sure that the
hog rings encircle the listing wire . Install I hog ring in e.ach hole provided
in the seat cushion frame .
REAR SEAT CUSHION COVER

from the car by lifting on the front of
the seat and pulling it forward .
2. Remove the cushion cover hog
rings and remove the cushion cover
from the seat frame.
3. Inspect the pad and replace it
if necessary .
4. Transfer the listing wire to the
new cushion cover.
5. Position the new cushion cover
on the seat frame and springs and attach it in place with hog rings 1 Fig. 4)
6. Install the seat cushion in the
car.
NOTE
10. Fasten the side of the cover

to the seat frame side with hog rings
throu~h the holes provided (Fig. 2).
11. In sta ll the seat back
Two types of rear seat and se~t

back springing are employed and, 1f
replacement of a frame and spring
assembly is required, it must be of
the same type as that removed.
FRONT SEAT BACK COVER
Repairs to seat backs are performed out of the car and are
usually limited to replacement of
torn or burned seat covers. In a few
instances, the pads may be damaged
and require replacement.
12. Install the seat tracks to the

cushion anu the seat assembly in the
car .
Fig. 3 shows a front seat back

build-up.
1. Remove the seat back.
2. Remove the ash receptacle and
ash receptacle retainer, if equipped .
9. At the rear of the seat assembly. pull the cover taut over the
pads. and install hog rings at the
seat frame .
3. Remove the hog rings retaining the seat back cover to the frame.
Unhook the listing wires from the
seat spring assembly tabs, and remove the cover (Fig. 3)
4. Transfer the listing wire to the
new seat back cover.
S. Inspect the seat pad and spring
assemblies, and repair or replace as
necessary
6. Careiully place the cover over
the seat frame and pad assembly.
Pull the cover taut over the pads,
hook the listing wires on the seat
spring assembly tabs and install the
hog rings (Fig. 3)
7. Cut a hole in the cover for the
ash receptacle retainer, if equipped,
and install the receptacle assembly.
8. Install the seat back to the seat
cushion .
REAR SEAT BACK COVER
I. Remove the rear seat back
from the car.
2. Remove the hog rings retaining
the seat back cover to the frame and
remove the rear seat back cover.
3. Transfer the listing wires' to the
new cover.
4. Position the new cover on the
pad and seat frame and secure it in
place with hog rings (Fig. 5)
5. Install the rear seat back in
the car.
PART 18-2- SEATS
18-9
su.A
FIG. 3-Front Seat Back
FIG. 4-Rear Seat Cushion Installation Typical
18-10
FIG. 5-Rear Seat Back Typical
PART 18-2- SEATS
EJ
18-11
BUCKET SEATS

FRONT SEAT AND SEAT TRACK
The seat track assembly is easily
replaced if the seat assembly is
removed from the car.
1. From under the car, remove
the seat track reta ining stud nuts
and washers. Remove the seat assembly f r om the car and place it
on a clean work area.
2. Remove the nuts which retain

the seat track assembly to the
cushion and remove the seat track
assembly.
3. Disconnect the release cable
from the track being replaced and
conn.e ct it to a new seat track .
4. Place the seat track assembly
on the seat cushion and install the

retaining nuts
3. Undo the two retaining screws

and remove the side valance.
5. Place the seat assembly in the

car and install the washers and
nuts on the retaining studs.
4. Remove the four hog rings retaining seat back lower valance
panel to the seat cushion.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION COVER

Repairs to seat cushions or seat
tracks are performed out of the car
and are usually limited to replacement of torn or burned seat covers. In a few instances, the pads
may be damaged and require replacement.
5. Remove the two hog rings retaining the tags of the sleeve
assl!mbly on the reclining mechanism cross bar.
6. Loosen the screws holding the
reclining hinge assembly to the seat
back and remove the bolts holding
the hinge assembly to the seat cush ion. The cushion may now be detached.
1. Remove the seat and track assembly from the car and place it
7. Remove the two sea t cu shi on

buttons and remove the hog rings
holding the cushion cover.
2. Remove the seat track assembly from the seat cushion.
8. Turn back the cover and remove the surround pad . Remove the
FIG. 6-Bucket Seat Front Typical
18-12
hog rings holding the cushion insert and remove the cushion cover
and insert pad.
9. Inspect the pad, flexilator and
spring assemblies and repair or replace as necessary.

16. Replace the side valance and
the seat track assembly.
17. The seat may now be installed in the car.
8. The top corners of the cover

may now be turned back and the
suround pad removed.
FRONT SEAT lACK COVER

10. Transfer the listing wires to
the new cover.
11. Place the cushion insert pad
on the flexilator and position the
cushion cover. Hog ring the insert
pad to the retainer and spring
frame .
12. Replace the surround pad,
t.urn the cushion cover over the
pad and secUJe with hog rings.
Replace the two seat cushion buttons.
13. Replace the bolts holding the
hinge assembly to the seat cushion
and tighten the screws holding the
hinge assembly to the seat back.
J.t. Hog ring the cross bar sleeve
assembly tags to the underside of

the seat cushion.
1;;. Hog ring the seat back lower
valance panel to the seat cushion.
7. Turn back the lower corners

of the cover and remove the lower
four hog rings, retaining the insert
1. Remove the l!e&t and track assembly from the car and place it
2. Undo the two retaining screws
and remove the side valance.
3. Remove the four hog rings retaining the seat back lower valance
panel to the seat cushion.
4. Loosen the bolts holding the
hinge assembly to the seat cushion
and remove the screws holding the
seat back to the hinge assembly
Remove the seat back.
5. Remove the rear cover panel
by pulling downwards to disengage
the clip.
6. Remove the two seat back buttons and the hog rings retaining
the cover.
9. Remove the remaining hog

rings around the insert II'Tld remove
the cover and in~ert pad.
10. Inspect the pad, flexilator and
the new cover.
12. Position the insert pad and
the cover on the flexilator and
replace all except the lower four
hog rings retaining the in~ert .
13. Replace the surround pad and
pull the top corners of the cover
over the frame .
14. Replac e the lower four hog
rings retaining the insert.
covu
ASSlMII.Y
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RW CENTRE nOOK TO '
lOCAT ITTM' 15 (+ PlACES)
OR ESB-IIIIA-112 - A .STAPu
THN .sECURE YV'.J<' ADH.51V E.SS-MC!f514 -A TO \!) l'lt7 WA Y IJCTOI11

HANOLE AND LATCH.$.
~
A.
' scRE:W
or,...._-46/7
@) 1/SfX>
llZJ Yllld:'44
~L - REAR f:LCX)I:( 7/::I.W

5100 .SCREW
G/3A57
~ - ST101<ER
IREQD
13 REQD
/:lEAR SEAT &liK.

2 RBilD
~-- ~ ~--
)
\ ~
~~
~ -~l_j
( ~- ~ 'I
FIG . 8- Wagon Rear Seat Latch Installation
"EW
WITH SCAT
BJ'.CK REit:JYE.D
18-14
15. Pull the bottom corners of

the cover frame and hog r ing the
cover to the frame.
16. Replace the two rear seat
back buttons and the rear cover
panel.
17. Install the seat back on the
hinges and tighten the hinge assembly to seat cushion retaining
bolts.
18. Hog ring the seat back lower
valance panel to the seat cushion.
19. Replace the side valance and
install the seat in the car.
3. Remove rear seat cushion pad

assembly, upper and lower.
4. Inspect the pad assembly and
the new cover.
6. Replace pad assemblies, upper
and lower.
7. Replace the seat cushion button:s and hog ring the corner in
position. Replace the cushion in the
car.
REAR SEAT CUSHION COVER

from the car by lifting on the
front of the seat and pulling it
forward.
2. Remove the cushion cover hog

ring3 and turn back the corner.
Remove the seat cushion buttons.
SEAT BELTS
GENERAL INFORMATION
The seat and sash belts are factory
installed in their proper locations. If
the seat belts or sash belts are removed for any reason, they should be
installed as shown in Fig. 9 & 10.
5. Remove the seat back buttons

and all hog rings retaining the seat
back cover.
6. Remove pad assembly.
7. Inspect the pad and spring assemblies and repair or replace 83
necessary.
the new cover.
REAR SEAT BACK COVER
9. Replace pad assembly.

and undo the two screws holding
thP. lower end of the rear seat back
in the car.
FAIRMONT REAR SEAT
the upper filler flap and remove the

bolts holding the armrest assembly
in position. Remove the armrest by
drawing it back through the seat.
10. Hog ring the seat back cover

in position.
11. Replace the armrest and hog
ring the upper filler flap in position.
2. Lift the seat back to disengage it from the uppP.r hooks and
remove the seat back from the car.
12. Hog ring the lower filler flap

in place.
3. Undo the hog rings retaining

the lower filler flap and remove it
from the seat back.
13. Engage the seat back on the

upper hooks and replace the two
seat back attaching screws.
4. Undo the hog rings retaining
14. Replace the rear seat cushion.
Sealer should be placed around all

seat belt anchor bolt holes in the
floor pan.
Belt assemblies must be installed in
matched sets as received and must
not be interchanged between models .
The position of inboard front seat
belts at the tunnel shall be pointing
in a forward direction , plus or minus
15 degrees .
If a component portion (buckle portion, retractor portion. etc) of a seat
belt or sash belt assembly is non
functional or damaged the entire
assembly
(buckle,
tongue and
shoulder harness portions) must be
replaced.
I'
V6W~
S'TD J!lt. 7J
Jr&J ~#lrJ o.._,

~' $ l/r1'A1If OtlfPIT
.-tCIOf' ,...,.n
0Nl V
'Ottt./IIQCW'"UIIIII"N~
.-Loot
......
,..,n,
BOLT J MCMJLD:;:Jt
BOLT - - / 16" 1 I
1 '8"
BOLT J MOI..rUD
..; Pit , MG
V~ ; KEI
'(' 16
PL.f. "' " " ' " '

WAV'. ,'. l:. t1f..R
"' i'l!"t:R
BELT &3::i!, COMI, RT. SU.f
BELT .lS..OT. PaT. lJ!! .t.T t.A.P
aol.T
s.auu.a
..; PACD
FIG. 9- Seat Belt Installation
18-15
PART 18-2- SEATS
\I
FIG. 10- Seat Belt Installation
CLEANING
Wash the webbing with any commercial soap or detergent.
Do not use carbon tetrachloride ,

naptha, etc. Bleaching or redyeing of
the seat belts is not recommended
because of deterioration which may
be caused to the webbing.

Inspect for loose, cuts or damaged
webbing.

Date
Letter No.
Paae
Brief Detail
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
AND LUBRICATION CHARTS
GROUP
19
PAGE
PART 19-1-
Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule
19-2
19-2
PART
191
LUBRICATION AND
Reliable opera t ion of all Ford

vehicles depends t o a great extent
on t he use of lubrican ts and service component s which meet Ford
Specifications. It is possible that
the use of lubricants or service
products which do not meet these
specifications may cause damage to
important operating mechanisms.
Conditions under which vehicles are
driven vary greatly co nsidering the extremes of temperature, urban and rural
traffic, paved and unpaved roads and dry
areas where dust is prevalent.
Operating conditions are considered
" norm al" unless:-
1. More than 50% of the operation is stop and go as in city

traffic.
2. The average trip is less than

10 miles.
ENGINE
3. The operation of the vehicle

includes long periods of idling such
a3 encountered in taxi and police
units, where mileage is not an accurate indication of the engine
hours run.
4. The temperature for periods
of two months at a time regularly
range below 45F.
5. Dust conditions
are more severe than
typical suburban area
majority of the streets
6. The vehicle is used for consistent high speed or competition

driving.
Where the conditions are more
severe than normal, i.e., one or
more of the above conditions apply, then the engine oil and the
CRANKCASE
Use of SAE 20W-4 0 oil wi ll

prov ide the proper viscosity for all
no rmal ra nges of outside temperatures.
encountered
those in a
where the
are paved.
filter should be changed more frequently:The following charts list the lubricant specifications and specified
change periods for normal vehicle
operation.
IMPORTANT
The lubricants listed are specified
:for the maximum service periods
approved by Ford Motor Company
of Australia Limited.
Manufacturers of these products
may advocate service periods in excess of those currently recommended. We do not propose to comment
on the validity of these claims but
point <>ut that it is mandatory that
the3e products be used in Ford vehicles only for the perio<ls currently !~commended.
OILS
defined by ASTM committee 02 for

Section G-IV of technical committee
B and are published in the SAE
Handbook. These tests cover oil
characteristics as follows :-
Sequence III High Temperature Deposit Formation (Va rnish).

~quence IV Rust Prevention.
Conosion
and
OIL QUALITY
Use only oils which have been
tested and certified by the maker
as satisfying automobile manufacturers specifications for Engine Operating sequence Tests for Service
MS . The Ford Motor Company
specification covering these tests is
ESE
M2C I OI-C
These
tests are
Sequence I Wear.
Low Temperature
Sequence V -
Sludge F ormat ion .
OIL FILTER
Prevention -
(Cold Starts) .
Sequence II High Speed High Temperature Wear. Prevention.
Use of the ri ght oil filter is also

essential to good engine life and
cperation. For 6,000 mile filter
change interval s it is essential that
only a genuine Ford filter be used .
PART 19-1- LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
NAME
ITEM
FORD SPEC .
BODY HINGES
HOOD LATC H SAFETY CATCH
LOCK CYLINDERS
FRONT SUSPENS ION BALL JO INT S
SAE 20 W / 40
Petroleum Jelly
Lock lu br 1ca nt
Ball jo1nt grease
ESB-M2C 20-A
MIC75-A
FRONT END UPPER INNER

PIVOT PINS
Ball jo int qrease
MIC 75-A
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

BRAKE MASTE R CYLINDER
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
STEER IN G GEAR HOUSING
Wheel beanng grease ESW FM 1 C2

500 bollmg po1n t
ESW FM 6C2
Brake flu1d
ESW M 1 C 87 --A
L1fet1me steermg
gear grease
M2C 33 F
Automati C trans miSSIOn fluid
Rubber grea se
ES W -M2C 108A
Hypoid gear lube
ESW- M2C 1 006A
L S. o il
ESW - M2C 119A
L.S. oil
ESW- M2C 83A
SAE 80
ESW- M2C 37
SAE 30
ESW -- M2C 37
SAE 30
M2C 33f
Automatic trans miSSIOn fluid
STEER IN G POWER PUMP RESERVOIR

POWER STEER ING ACTUATOR BALL STUD
REAR AXLE
CONVENT IONAL
LIMITED SL I P
TRACT ION LOK
TRANS\~ISSION MANUAL- 4 SP EED
3 SPeED FUL L SYNC HRO
3 SPEED PART SYNC HRO
TRANSM ISSION- AUTOMATIC
ESE M 2C 10 1- C
ES W-M1C 87A
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
ES E- M2C 101 - C
ENGINE
M.S. Sequen ce
tested
I::NGINE OIL I-ILLER BREATHER CAP

E GINE O I L FILTER
DISTRIBUTOR CAM
ESE - M2 C 101 - C
SAE 20W , 40
6.000 - mile type
D1st cJm greJse
M1 C 66A
19-3
CAPACITY
as required
as required
10 gram s at
serv1cmq 1nterval
3 grams at
serv 1c1ng 1nterval
1 oz. per hub
.48 pints
.0 7 pints
0 7 lb. ::J- 07 lb .
2.5 pints
2 3 p1nts
2 3 p1nts
4 p1nts
3 25 pints
2 7 p ints
3 . 1 3 pints
B.W
14 . 5 pt.
C4
1 6 . 5 pt.
FMX
18 5 pt.
T ota l ca pacity of
U.J.s 5 grams
200-250
8 pt.
302-35 1
8 pt.
( In cludes Oil Filter
capacity)
1 . 7 pints
Smear
19-4
GROUP 19- LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Maintenance Operations
Carry out the operations listed
below at the mileages shown
or at the equtvalent
monthly tntervals .
Months
9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36
Miles OOO's
9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36
Under Hood:
Change engine oil and install new Motorcra ft/Ford Filter X
X
Clean crankcase breather cap
Clean fuel pump filter screen and sedtment bowl
Replace closed em1sston regulator control valve
Check torque manifold bolts and tnlet ptpe to
mantfold nuts
Check and adjust steering gear preload (ma nual only)
Compress1on test eng1ne
Cl ean carburett or air cleaner and filter (r epl ace cleaner
element as requ ired)
Ch eck, adjust and lubricate accelerator lin kage

Check, adjust and lubricate transmissio n linkages
(manual, auto.)
Check and adjust inhibitor switch
Adjust fan belt tenston
Che ck al l flutd levels (master cylt nders . stee r1ng
box. automatt c transmtsston)
Check battery electrolyte, termmals for secu r1ty
(clean where necessary) , top up ele ctrolyt e
Inspect engtne compartment for flu1d leaks
Drain, flush , refill and add inhibitor to ra diator and
check c ondition of hoses
Clean and adju st po1nts. plugs and reset 1gn 1t1on
t1m1ng (replace as requ1red)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Replace fuel filter where fitt ed

Check idle R .P.M .
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
XI
X
X
X X X X X X X
X
X
X
X
x lx x
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X X X X X X X X
X X IX
X
X
X
X
X
' X
X
X X X X XIX X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X
X
Under Body:
Vtsually 1n spe ct d1s c brake pads for wear . re p lace
where necessary and adjust whee l bear1ng s
Remo ve and clean brake drum assembl1es . C heck
l1 n1ngs for wear and adjust hand brake mec han 1sm
Repa ck and adjust front wheel bear1ngs
Inspect tyres
Ch eck and adjust toe-in
Se rv1ce automati C transm iSSion and ad just b ands .
Inspe ct shock absorber rn ountmgs
Che ck flu1d levels (transrn1SS1on-rnanual . re ar axle)
Check under body for exhaustjflu 1d leaks
Inspect all steer1ng l1 nkages and steer1ng bo x for
wear and secunty
Inspect brake hose s
Torque rear sprtng Ujbo lts
Lubricat e handbrake linkages and check a djustment
Lub r1cate fro nt end upper 1nn er p1vot p1n s.
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Lubricat e front suspension ball joints

General:
Che ck w 1n dsh1eld w1per;washer operat 1o n a nd
bl ade cond1 t 1on
Lu bncat e and ch ec k operat 1on of door loc ks .hood
and d eckl1d catches
Ens u re correct operat1on of alll1ght1ng
Road test veh >cl e
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X
ADDENDUM
POLICE AND TAXI UNITS
19-5
MILEAGE
As
Required
Each each
Daily
each
INTERVAL
each
each
5000 10000 15000 20000 25000
each
30000
E N G I N E
Change engine oil and filter

Check engine oil level
Check radiator coolant level
X
X
Check battery electrolite level

Clean crankcase breather cap
Replace engine coolant and add r?diator inhibitor Rl-36 (or

every two years)
X
X
Check engine accessory drive belts
Ignition timing check and adjust if necessary
Clean carburettor air cleaner and filter (replace as required)
T R A N S M I S S I 0 N.
Adjust automatic transmission band and service !'{)000 ,and 35000
Accelerator linkage and down shift valve control
Check and adjust if necessary (automatic)
cable.
X
Gear change linkage. Check and adjust if necessary.
Check ftiud level, rear axle, manual tran s mission, automatic

transmission
H A
s s
Check brake linings and / or pads for excessive wear and

check brake lines for damage and. leaks
In spect all steering lin~age s amJ sll:ering bus for wear a ml

security anJ adjust front wheel alignment if necessary
X
X
Steering gear preload check (manual on ly)

Lubncate' front end upper 1nner p1vot pins.
Repa ck and ad1ust front wheel bear1ngs
X
X
N.B.- The above information only applies to Police and Taxi units and must be used in conjunction with
the chart on the previous page.

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
GROUP
20
PAGE
PART 20-1-
Maintenance Operations
20-2
20-2
PART
20-1
MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
Page
Section
20-2
20-14
1 Engine and under hood

2 Transmission, Clutch and Rear Axle
Page
Section
3 Under body, Steering and Alignment .. '
4 Body ..
20-16
20-22
D ENGINE AND UNDER HOOD

and observe all the connections for
fuel seepage. Tighten or replace fuel
lines as necessary.
INSPECT COOLING SYSTEM

HOSES AND LINES
Inspect the cooling system hoses

for evidence of cracking or extreme
weathering. Replace cracked hoses.
Check for leaking or porous hoses
and tighten or replace.
Make sure all supporting brackets
for hoses are in place and that the
hoses are properly installed in the
brackets.
Inspect the radiator core and tanks
for seepage or leaks.
Check all fittings to see that they
are tight and in good condition.
Examine the hoses at the fittings for
cuts or weakness. Repl.ace any hose
in questionable condition.
REPLACE FUEL FILTER
FIG. 1 -Typical Cylinder Block

Drain Plug-Six
IN-LINE FILTER REPLACEMENT

-VB
REPLACE RADIATOR COOLANT
Refer to Part 19, Maintenance

Schedule, for recommended frequency of service.
To drain the radiator, open the
drain cock located at the bottom of
the radiator and remove the cylinder
block drain plug(s). The 6-cylinder
engine block has one drain plug located at the right rear of the cylinder
block ahead of the. starter (Fig. 1).
The V-8 engines have a drain plug on
each side of the cylinder block (Fig.
2).
To fill the cooling system; close the
drain cock. Install the block drain
plug(s). Disconnect the heater
outlet hose at the water pump to
bleed or release trapped air in
the system. When the coolant begins
to escape, connect the heater outlet
hose.
Add radiator inhibitor of approved
specifications.
Operate the engine until normal
operating temperature has been
reached. After the. initial fill, the

Schedules, for recommended
frequency of filter replacement.
The in-line fuel filter used on V-8
engines 250 CID 2V six cylinder, and
the 250 CID 1V six cylinder engine
equipped with air-conditioning is of
one-piece construction and cannot be
cleaned. Replace the filter (and gasket
if so equipped) if it becomes clogged
or restricted. Otherwise, replace it at
the interval specified in the maintenance schedule.
DRAIN PLUG
11196-A
FIG. 2 - Typical Cylinder Block

Drain Plug V-8
coolant level will drop approximately one quart after the engine
has been operated about 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm. This is due to
the displacement of entrapped
air. Add more coolant to fill the
radiator supply tank.
CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL
The coolant level should be kept

one inch below the filler neck
opening.
INSPECT FUEL LINES AND FILTER
FOR LEAKS
With the engine off, examine the

fuel line connections for wetness or
washed or stained areas that might
indicate a fuel leak. Start the engine

2. Loosen the retaining clamp securing the fuel inlet hose to the fuel
filter.
3. Unscrew the fuel filter from the
carburettor and discard the gasket, if
so equipped. Disconnect the fuel
filter from the hose and discard the
retaining clamp.
4. Install a new clamp on the inlet
hose and connect the hose to the
filter. Place a new gasket (if used) on
the new fuel filter and screw the filter
into the carburettor inlet port.
Tighten the filter.
5. Position the fuel line hose clamp
and crimp the clamp securely.
fuel leaks.
IN-LINE FILTER REPLACEMENT
250 CID 2V SIX CYLINDER, 250
CID 1V SIX CYLINDER ENGINE
EQUIPPED WITH AIR-CONDITIONING
1. Hold hex. part of filter to pre-
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
20-3
vent filter from turning and unscrew

flared union, fuel pipe to filter.
2. Hold double female adaptor and
unscrew flared union, fuel filter to
double female adaptor.
3. Remove in-line filter.
4. Place a new filter in position and
screw top and bottom flared unions
to retain filter, by holding hex. on
filter and hex. on adaptor, respectively.
fuel leaks.
CLEANING THE FUEL PUMP FILTER
SCREEN & SEDIMENT BOWL
AC type only
l; Unscrew the sediment bowl retaining nut.

2. Remove the sediment bowl.
3. Remove and clean gauze filter.
4. Replace gauze filter.
5. Refit the bowl after cleaning,
using a new gasket.
6. Tighten the sediment bowl retaining nut.
leaks.
CLEAN CRANKCASE
VENTILATION SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
XA/ZF vehicles are equipped with

crankcase ventilation systems which
have the components located at
different . points on each type of
engine. Fig. 3 shows typical ventilation system for the V-8 engines.
The following is a general procedure.
REMOVAL
Remove the following components

from the crankcase ventilation system!
1. Remove the oil filler cap
2. Remove the air cleaner (and
duct and valve assembly, if so
equipped).
3. Remove the hose or hose assembly from the ventilator valve in the
rocker arm cover. Remove the other
end of this hose (or hose assembly)
from the intake manifold connection,
or carburettor spacer connection, if
so connected.
4. Pull the ventilator valve from
the grommet in the rocker arm cover.
CLEANING
1. Wash the crankcase filler cap in

a low-volatility, petroleum-base solvent. Shake the cap dry. Do not dry
">; VENT HOSE
( ~/-,
\( \
FIG. 3- Crankcase Ventilation System
Components Typical
A\3141-A
20-4
GROUP 20-MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
with compressed air, since air

pressure may damage the filter
element.
3: Clean the rubber hoses with a
low-volatility petroleum-base solvent
and dry them with compressed air.
Remove all deposits from inside walls
of the hoses. Heavy deposits can flake
off in service. Replace any hose that
cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
4. Clean the intake manifold or
carburettor spacer connection by
probing the inlet nipple or threaded
opening with a flexible wire brush.
5. Do not attempt to clean the
crankcase ventilator valve. It
should be replaced at the specified
mileage intervals or when test indicates it is not working properly.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the ventilator valve into
the grommet in the rocker arm cover.
If the grommet is loose or damaged,
use a new grommet.
2. Assemble the components of the
hose assembly (if an assembly was
removed).
3. Connect one end of the hose (or
hose assembly) to the ventilator valve.
4. Connect the other end of the
hose (or hose assembly) to the fitting
on the intake manifold, or carburettor
spacer (if so connected).
5. Install the carburettor air cleaner
(and ducts, if so equipped).
6. Install the oil filler cap on the
oil filler pipe.
CHECK ENGINE ACCESSORY
PULLEYS AND DRIVE BELTS
PULLEY CONDITION
Inspect pulley belt surface for deposits of rust. If rust is present but
can be removed easily with a cloth
moistened with kerosene, rust is
harmless and can be ignored. If rust
cannot be so removed, remove belt(s)
and polish pulley belt surfaces with
fine sandpaper. Wipe or blow clean
with compressed air. Install belt(s)
and adjust the tension to specifications.
Tool-
-8620-B
FIG. 4 - Checking Drive Belt

Tension
CHECK ENGINE ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELTS
BELT TENSION
Properly tensioned drive belts
minimize noise and also prolong
service life of the belt. Therefore, it is
recommended that a belt tension
gauge be used to check and adjust the
belt tension. Any belt that has
operated for a minimum of 10
minutes is considered a used belt,
and when adjusted, it must be
adjusted to the reset tension
shown in the specifications.
1. Install the belt tension tool
(Part No. 8620B) on the drive belt
(Fig. 4) and check the tension
following the instructions of the tool
manufacturer.
2. If adjustment is necessary,
loosen the alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts. Move the alternator toward or away from the
engine until the correct tension is
obtained. Tighten the alternator
adjusting arm and the mounting
bolts. Check the belt tension.
DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT
loosen the power steering pump
bracket at the water pump and remove the drive belt.
2. Loosen the alternator mounting
and adjusting arm bolts. Move the

alternator toward the engine. Remove the belt(s) from the alternator
and crankshaft pulleys, and lift them
over the fan.
3. Place the belt(s) over the fan.
Insert the belt(s) in the water pump
pulley, crankshaft pulley and alternator or generator pulley grooves.
Adjust the belt tension to specifications.

install the power steering pump drive
belt and tighten the pump bracket
to the water pump. Adjust the drive
belt tension to specifications.
CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND FILTER
1. Raise the car.
2. Remove the oil pan drain plug
and allow the engine oil to drain into
a container.
3. Place a drip pan under the filter.
Unscrew the filter from the adaptor
fitting.
4. Coat the gasket on the new
Motorcraft/Ford filter with oil. Place
the filter in position ori the adaptor
fitting. Hand tighten the filter until
the gasket contacts the adaptor face,
then advance it t turn.
5. Replace the oil pan drain plug
and tighten it securely.
6. Refill the crankcase with the
proper amount and grade of oil.
7. Lower the car.
and check for oil leaks. If oil leaks
are evident, perform the necessary
repairs to correct the leakage.
CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL
Check the oil level dipstick to be
sure it indicates the correct quantity
of oil in the crankcase. Be sure the
oil is clean.
20-5

TORQUE INTAKE MANIFOLD
BOLTS
8 CYLINDER ONLY
Refer to Fig. 5 for the correct
tightening sequence. Using a torque
wrench, and following the sequence
given, tighten the manifold bolts to
specifications.
Intake Manifold Bolt Torque
Engine
(Ft-Lb)
302
351 ............ 5/ 16 bolt 23-25
3/ 8 bolt 28-32
CD CD 0CD 0
IDENTIFIED BY BLACK,
DRY FLUFFY 'CARBON
DE POSITS ON INSULA TOR
TIPS, EXPOSED SHELL
SURFACES AND ELECTRODES.
CAUSED BY TOO COLD A
PLUG , WEAK IGNITION, DIRTY
AIR CLEANER,DEFECTIVE FUEL
PUMP, TOO RICH A FUEL
MIX TUR!, IMPROPERLY
OPERATING HEAT RISER
OR EXCESSIVE IDLING.
CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY WET BLACK DEP.

OS ITS ON THE INSULA TOR SHELL
BORE ELECTRODES CAUSED BY
EXCESSIVE OIL ENTERING CO'ABUS.
TION CHAMBER THROUGH WORN
RINGS AND PISTONS, EXCESSIVE
CLEARANCE
BETWEEN
VALVE
GUIDES AND STEMS, OR WORN OR
LOOSE BEARINGS . CAN BE CLEANED
IF ENGINE IS NOT REPAIRED, USE
A HOTTER PLUG.
IDENTIFIED BY DEPOSIT
BUILD UP CLOSING GAP
BETWEEN ELECTRODES.
CAUSED BY OIL OR
CARBON FOULING. IF
DEPOSITS ARE NOT EXCESSIVE,
THE PLUG CAN BE CLEANED.
0 000
FIG. 5- Intake Manifold Torque
Sequence- 302 and 351 Engines
BATTERY CABLES
Check battery cable connections
for tightness. Check cables for
frayed insulation or excessive corrosion. Replace as required.
INSPECT SECONDARY IGNITION
WIRING
Inspect the secondary (high-tension) wiring for cracked insulation
or indications of heat damage. Be
sure that the spark plug wires are
fully seated on the spark plugs and
that the connections to the coil and
distributor are bottomed in the
receptacles provided.
IDENTIFIED BY DARK
GRAY , BLACK, YELLOW
OR TAN DE POSITS OR A
FUSED GLAZED COATING
ON THE INSULATOR TIP.
CAUSED BY HIGHLY
LEADED GASOLINE. CAN
BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY LIGHT TAN OR

GRAY DEPOSITS ON THE
FIRING TIP.
CAN i3E CLEANED.
IDENTIF lED BY SEVERELY

ERODED OR WORN ELECTRODES.
CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR.
SHOULD BE REPLACED.
PRE-IGNITION
INSPECT, CLEAN, ADJUST AND

TEST SPARK PLUGS- REPLACE
AS REQUIRED
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wire from each
spark plug by grasping, twisting and
then pulling the moulded cap of the
wire only. Do not pull on the wire
because the wire connection inside the cap may become separated or the weather seal may
be damaged.
2. Clean the area around each
spark plug port with compressed air,
then remove the spark plugs.
IDENTIFIED BY MELTEu
OR SPOTTY DEPOSITS
RESEMBLING BUBBLES
OR BLISTERS.
CAUSED BY SUDDEN
ACCE LE RAT ION. CAN BE
CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY A WHITE OR LIGHT

GRAY INSULATOR WITH SMALL
BLACK OR GRAY BROWN SPOTS
AND WITH BLUISH-BURNT APPEAR.
ANCE OF ELECTRODES, CAUSED
BY ENGINE OVERHEATING. WRONG
TYPE OF FUEL, LOOSE SPARK
PLUGS, TOO HOT A PLUG, LOW
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR INCOR.
RECT IGNITION TIMING. REPLACE
THE PLUG.
FIG. 6- Spark Plug Inspection Guide
IDENTIFIED BY MEL TED

ELECTRODES AND POSSIBLY
BLISTERED INSULATOR.
METALLIC DE POSITS ON
INSULATOR INDICATE ENGINE
DAMAGE.
CAUSED BY WRONG TYPE
OF FUEL, INCORRECT IGNITION
TIMING OR ADVANCE, TOO HOT
A PLUG, BURNT VALVES OR
ENGINE OVERHEATING.
REPLACE THE PLUG.
20-6
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS

the cap out of the way (if necessary,
remove the air cleaner and/ or the
high tension wire to gain access to
the distributor).
Lift the rotor off the cam.
Refer to applicable section of the
Shop Manual for distributor point
specifications.

1. Examine the firing ends of the
spark plugs, noting the type of deposits and the degree of electrode
erosion. Refer to Fig. 6 for the
various types of spark plug conditions and causes.
2. Clean the plugs on a sand blast
cleaner, following the manufacturer's
instructions. Do not prolong the
use of the abrasive blast as it
will erode the insulator. Remove
carbon and other deposits from the
threads with a stiff wire brush. Any
deposits will retard the heat flow from
the plug to the cylinder head causing
spark plug overheating and preignition.
3. Clean the electrode surfaces
with a small file (Fig. 7). Dress
the electrodes to secure flat
parallel surfaces on both the
centre and side electrode.
4. Mter cleaning, examine the plug
carefully for cracked or broken insulators, badly pitted electrodes, and
other signs of failure. Replace as
required.
INSPECTION
Replace the distributor point assembly if the contacts are badly
burned or excessive metal transfer
between the points is evident. Metal
transfer is considered excessive when
it equals or exceeds the gap setting.
REMOVAL-BOSCH DISTRIBUTORS
6 CYL. AND 302 VS
FIG. 7- Cleaning Spark Plug

Electrode
ADJUSTMENT
INSTALLATION
Set the spark plug gap by bending

the ground electrode (Fig. 8).
Never bend the centre electrode.
TESTING
After the proper gap is obtained,
check the plugs on a testing machine.
Compare the sparking efficiency of
the cleaned and gapped plug with a
new plug. Replace the plug if it fails
to pass the test as outlined in the
tester instruction manual.
Test the plugs for compression
leakage at the insulator seal. Apply a
coating of oil to the shoulder of the
plug where the insulator projects
through the shell, and to the top of
the plug, where the centre electrode
and terminal project from the insulator. Place the spark plug under pressure with the tester's high tension
wire removed from the spark plug.
Leakage is indicated by air bubbling
through the oil. If the test indicates
compression leakage, replace the
plug. If the plug is satisfactory, wipe
it clean.
FIG. 8 -Checking Spark Plug

Gap
CHECK AND ADJUST
DISTRIBUTOR POINTS - REPLACE
AS REQUIRED
Unsnap the distributor cap retaining clips, lift the distributor cap off
the distributor housing, and position
CONDITION
1. Assemble the contact breaker

assembly by depressing the contact
spring blade and pushing the movable breaker on to the stationary
breaker.
2. Position the contact breaker
assembly on to the breaker plate and
secure with screw.
3. Replace contact breaker lead on
primary terminal.
4. The breaker points must strike
squarely, to align the breaker points
carefully bend the stationary point
bracket until full face contact is
obtained.
CAUSED BY

Radio condenser installed to the distributor
side of the coil.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the spark plugs and
torque each plug to 15-20 ft-lbs.
2. Connect the spark plug wires.
Check wire position in support
brackets. Press wires firmly into
proper bracket slots. Push all weather
seals into position.
1. Remove contact breaker lead

from primary terminal connector.
2. Remove screw securing contact
breaker assembly in breaker plate
and lift off contact breaker as an
assembly.
3. The contact breaker assembly
may be separated by depressing the
moving contact spring blade until the
terminal block is clear of the stationary point.
EXCESSIVE METAL
TRANSFER OR PITTING
Incorrect alignment.
Radio condenser installed to the distributor
side of the coil.
Ignition condenser of improper capacity.
Extended operation of the engine at speeds
other than normal.
81443 -C
FIG. 9 -Breaker Point Inspection
ing and snap the retaining clips in

place.
rfi=D:=::~
CHECK IGNITION TIMING
~CORRECT.~
ALIGNMENT
C ONOT
NTACT@
AREA
CENTERED
MISALIGNMENT
o:o:::TR@
AREA NOT
CENTERED
B 3318-A
ISALIGNMENT
OF POINT FACES
11019-A
FIG. 10- Breaker Point

Alignment Guide
FIG. 12- Aligning Breaker

Points
3. After the breaker points have
been properly aligned, adjust the
breaker point gap or dwell.
DWELL ANGLE ADJUSTMENT
BEND STATIONARY BRACKET
FIG. 11 -Aligning Breaker

Points - Typical
5. Reset the breaker point gap to
speci.fications.
6. Replace rotor and distributor
cap.
BREAKER POINT
ALIGNMENT 351C
The vented-type breaker points
used in Ford distributors must be accurately aligned in order to realize the
full advantages provided by this design, and to assure normal breaker
point life. Any misalignment of the
breaker point surfaces will cause premature wear, overheating and pitting.
1. Turn the distributor cam so that
the breaker points are closed and
check the alignment of the points
(Fig. 10).
2. Align the breaker points to make
full face contact by bending the
stationary breaker point bracket
(Figs. 11 and 12). Do not bend the
breaker arm.
20-7
Use a dwell meter to check the

contact dwell. It is not advisable to
use a feeler gauge to check the gap of
used breaker points because the
roughness of the points makes an
accurate gap reading or setting impossible.
If the used points are serviceable,
set the gap using a dwell meter as
follows:
1. Connect the dwell meter following the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Operate the engine at specified
idle speed and note the reading on
the dwell meter.
3. Stop the engine and adjust the
gap (decreasing the gap increases the
dwell). Now check the dwell again.
4. Repeat this .procedure until
specified dwell is obtained.
If new points are installed, set the
gap to specifications using a feeler
gauge. Check setting with dwell
meter.
If the distributor is equipped with
dual breaker points, adjust the dwell
of each set separately in order to get
the specified combined dwell. The
most precise method is to disconnect
one set of points while adjusting the
other, since spring tension on the cam
is then equal. Alternately, a piece of
plastic can be inserted between the
contacts of one set to take it out of
the circuit. As an example: where a
33 degree combined dwell is specified,
the points are set separately at 25-25
1/ 2 degree to secure the specified 33
degree dwell.
5. Install the rotor. Install the distributor cap on the distributor hous-
To check and adjust the ttmmg

with a power timing light, proceed
as follows:
1. Remove the plug wire from the
number 1 spark plug.
2. Install the spark plug adaptor
on the spark plug.
3. Connect the plug wire to the
spark plug adaptor.
4. Clamp the timing light spark
plug lead to the spark plug adaptor.
5. Connect the timing light battery
leads to the battery terminals.
6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line.
7. If necessary, clean and mark the
timing marks.
8. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and point the timing
light at the timing pointer.
9. If the timing is incorrect, loosen
the distributor hold down bolt and
rotate the distributor until the desired initial advance is obtained.
10. Tighten the distributor hold
down bolt and check the timing
again.
12. Remove the timing light and
connect the vacuum line.
CARBURETTOR AIR CLEANER

CLEAN OR REPLACE FILTER
REMOVAL:
1. Remove the wing nut retaining
the air cleaner (and duct if so equipped) assembly to the carburettor.
2. Remove the air cleaner (and
duct if so equipped) assembly from
the carburettor. To prevent dirt
from entering the carburettor,
the filter element must never be
removed when the air cleaner
body is mounted on the carburettor.
cleaner mounting gasket if it is excessively worn or damaged.
20-8
CLEANING FILTERING ELEMENT

The cellulose fibre filter element must never be cleaned
with a solvent or cleaning solution. Also, oil must not be added
to the surfaces of the filter element or air cleaner body.
There are two procedures that can
be used to clean the air filter element.
One method is performed with the
use of compressed air. The other is
performed by tapping the element on
a smooth horizontal surface.
Compressed Air Method. Direct
a stream of compressed air through
the element in the directioh opposite
that of the intake air flow, that is
from the inside outward. Extreme
care must be exercised to prevent rupture of the element
material.
Tapping Method. Hold the element in a vertical position and tap
it lightly against a smooth, horizontal
surface to shake the dust and dirt out.
Do not deform the element or
damage the gasket surfaces by
tapping too hard. Rotate the filter
after each tap until the entire outer
surface has been cleaned.
Inspection. Hold the filter in
front of a back-up light and carefully
inspect it for any splits or cracks. If
the filter is split or cracked, replace it.
sUN the word TOP faces up.

4. Install the cover and tighten the
wing bolt.
CHECK BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

FLUID LEVEL
master cylinder. The diaphragm
which seals the master cylinder
should come off with the cap.
2. Fill the reservoir to i inch from
the top with approved fluid.
3. Install the filler cap, making
sure that the diaphragm is properly
seated in the cap.
CHECK CLUTCH MASTER

CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL
master cylinder.
2. Top up the reservoir to t inch
below the top face, with approved
fluid.
3. Install the filler cap.
IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE

All XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane
carburettors are equipped with idle

limiters control the maximum idle
richness and help prevent unauthorized persons from making overly rich
idle adjustments.
The plastic idle limiter cap is installed on the head of the idle fuel
mixture adjusting screw(s) (Figs. 13
and 14). Any adjustment made on carburettors having this type of limiter
must be within the range- of the idle
adjusting limiter. Under no circumstances are the idle adjusting
limiters or the limiter stops on
the carburettor to be mutilated
or deformed to render the limiters inoperative. On the Motorcraft
21 00-D 2-V carburettor, the power
valve cover must be installed with the
limiter stops on the cover in
CHECK POWER STEERING

RESERVOIR FLUID LEVEL
Start the engine, turn the steering
wheel all the way to the left and right
several times, and shut off the engine.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If the level is low, add enough
fluid to raise the level to the bottom
of the filler neck. Do not overfill
the reservoir.
CLEANING BODY AND COVER
CHECK BATTERY FLUID LEVEL
Clean the air cleaner body and the

cover with a solvent or compressed
air. If the air cleaner contains an
opening for the crankcase ventilation
system air flow, probe the opening to
assure removal of deposits. Wipe the
air cleaner dry if a solvent is used.
Inspect the air cleaner body and
cover for distortion or damage at the
gasket mating surfaces. Replace the
cover or body if they are damaged
beyond repair.
The battery is mounted under the

hood at the right front side of the
engine compartment.
Keep the fluid in each battery cell
up to the level of the ring in the
bottom of the filler well. Generally,
tap water may be added unless it
has a high mineral content or has
been stored in a metal container.
FIG. 13 -Idle Fuel LimitersMotorcraft 4300 4-V

IDLE ADJUSTING LIMITERS
CLEAN CHOKE EXTERNAL

LINKAGE
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new air cleaner mounting gasket on the carburettor, if
necessary.
2. Install the air cleaner body on
the carburettor or position the air
cleaner and air intake duct and valve
assembly on the carburettor.
3. Place the air cleaner filter element in the air cleaner body.
Make sure the filter is properly
seated. If the word TOP is indicated on the filter element, make
Examine the choke external linkage

for free operation. If the linkage appears to be sticking, or is dirty, clean
the linkage using a brush and common mineral-spirits type cleaning
fluid. Operate the choke plate manually to make sure that it moves freely.
Lubricate the choke plate shaft at
each end and the choke operating link
with engine oil if necessary. Refer to
the applicable section for choke
adjustment specifications.
LIM IT ER STOPS
83114-A
FIG. 14- Motorcraft Modei2100-D
2-V Idle Adjusting Limiters and

Limiter Stops - Bottom View

throttle plate(s) to seat in the throttle
bore(s).
screw inward (outward for Stromberg
BV2) until it just makes contact with
the screw stop on the throttle shaft
and lever assembly. Then, turn the
screw inward (outward for BV2) 1t
turns to establish a preliminary idle
speed adjustment (Fig. 17).
making idle mixture and speed
adjustments.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGSENGINE ON
FIG. 15 -Idle Fuel Mixture
Adiustment (BV2)
position to provide a positive stop for
tabs on the idle adjusting limiters
(Fig. 14).
obtainable within the range of
the idle adjusting limiters, if all
other engine systems are operating within specifications.
Note: The limiter caps fitted to
Stromberg carburettors is free turning on the head of the idle mixture
adjusting screw. THE ONLY IDLE
ADJUSTMENT ALLOWABLE IN
NORMAL SERVICE IS THE
ENGINE IDLE SPEED.
Following are the normal procedures necessary to properly adjust the
engine idle speed and fuel mixture.
The specific operations should be
followed in the sequence given whenever the idle speed or idle fuel
performing the normal procedures.
If this occurs, refer to Additional Idle
Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures.
1. The engine and underhood temperatures must be stabilized before

idle adjustments are made. Run the
engine a minimum of 20 minutes at
1,500 rpm. This can be done by
positioning the fast idle screw or cam
follower on the kickdown step of the
fast idle cam (Fig. 18). (Not applicable to Stromberg BV2).
and the distributor advance. Use an
accurate-reading tachometer and timing light when checking the initial
ignition timing and idle fuel mixture
and speed.
made only when the transmission is
in Neutral.
transmission, the idle setting is made
with the transmission selector lever
in the Drive range.
20-9

full-open position.
5. Turn the headlights on high
beam to place the alternator under a
load condition in order to properly
adjust to the specified engine idle
speed.
6. The final idle speed adjustment is made with the air conditioner (if equipped) turned ON.
to specifications. The tachometer
reading (rpm) must be taken with the
air cleaner installed.
If it is not possible to adjust the
idle speed with the air cleaner installed, remove it, make the adjustment, then replace the air cleaner and
check again for the specified rpm.
Manual transmission vehicles may
be fitted with a solenoid throttle
positioner. However, this is not connected on these engines and must be
adjusted so as not to affect the engine
idle speed. Idle speed adjustment is
to be made on the normal throttle
stop screw.
screw(s) inward to obtain the smoothest idle possible within the range of
the idle limiter( s), Motorcraft carburettors only. Turn the idle mixture
adjusting screws inward an equal
amount.
On 2- and 4-venturi carburettors,

turn the idle mixture adjusting
screws inward an equal amount.
Check for idle smoothness only
with the air cleaner installed.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS ENGINE OFF

Motorcraft craburettors only; to the
limiter cap(s) (Figs. 13 to 14).
2. Back off the curb idle speed adjusting screw (Fig. 17) until the
throttle plate(s) seat in the throttle
bore(s).
throttle positioner (if so equipped) is
not interfering with the throttle lever
(Fig. 19).
It may be necessary to loosen the
dashpot or solenoid to allow the
IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS
FIG. 16 -Idle Fuel Mixture -
ww
20-10
FAST I OLE
ou.. ll+',
( Bend u
FAST IDLE
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300-4V
STROMBERG (WW SERIES)

STROMBERG (BV2)
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D, 2V
FIG. 17 - Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screws

ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED AND
FUEL MIXTURE PROCEDURES

obtained after performing the preceding normal idle fuel settings,
additional checks of engine systems
must be performed.
checked and, if required, corrected:
a. Vacuum leaks.
b. Ignition system wiring continuity.
c. Spark plugs.
d. Distributor breaker point dwell
angle.
e. Distributor point condition.
f. Initial ignition timing.
In certain instances, it may be possible that the idle condition is not as
good as normally expected.
FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
2. If the idle condition is not improved after the items in Step 1 have
a. Fuel Level.
b. Crankcase ventilation system.
c. Valve clearance (using the collapsed tappet method for hydraulic valves).
d. Engine compression.
3. Mter verification of all engine
systems has been made, t!lere may be
isolated cases where a satisfactory
idl~ condition has not been obtained,
due possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture, If this condition is encountered,
refer to the specific carburettor section of Group 10 of this manual for
correction procedure.
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig.

18) contacts one edge of the fast idle
cam. The cam permits a faster engine
idle speed for smoother running when
the engine is cold during choke operation. As the choke plate is moved
through its range of travel from the
closed to the open position, the fast
idle cam pick-up lever rotates the
fast idle cam. Each position on the
fast idle cam permits a slower idle
rpm as engine temperature rises and
choking is reduced.
Make certain the curb idle
speed and mixture are adjusted
FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW
FAST
(Bend .u
ou,, .. ,....,..,.
FAST IDLE CAM
STROMBERG (WW SERIES)

MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D, 2V
FIG. 18- Fast Idle Speed Adjustment

to specification before attempting to set the fast idle speed.
1. With the engine operating temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner
removed and the tachometer attached, manually rotate the fast idle cam
until the fast idle adjusting screw
rests on the specified step on the
cam. (Refer to the applicable carburettor section for specifications.)
2. Turn the fast idle adjusting
screw inward or outward as required
to obtain the specified fast idle rpm.
retaining screws.
are not required, install the heater
hose and mounting bracket (if so
equipped) and the air cleaner assembly on the carburettor.
THERMOSTATIC SPRING HOUSING INDEX MARK
20-11
the choke lever.

Hold in this position and check
choke valve opening "D" with a drill .
gauge. If opening is not 0.140", bend
choke link at point indicated to
obtain correct setting. After bending
link, ensure choke valve does not
bind in any position.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT where fitted

mixture properly adjusted, and the
engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the anti-stall dashpot
lock nut.
position and depress the plunger with
a screwdriver blade. Measure the
clearance between the throttle lever
and the plunger tip. Turn the antistall dashpot in a direction to provide
the specified clearance between the
tip of the plunger and the throttle
lever. Tighten the locknut to secure
the adjustment.
Preu and Hold Olaphratm
at Its full llmU of Trav..
FIG. 22- Vacuum KickStromberg WW Series

CHOKE HOUSING INDEX MARK
82394-A
FIG. 20- Automatic Choke

Thermostatic Spring Housing
Adjustment - Typical
CHOKE PLATE PULL DOWN
CLEARANCE
STROMBERG WW SERIES
(Figs. 21 and 22)
DASHPOT LOCKNUT
83134-A
Apply light closing pressure to

choke valve, then open throttle valves
to wide open position. The choke
valve should open just enough to
allow the insertion of drill gauge
"C" between the choke valve and
wall of air horn. Bend ear on the
throttle lever as required to obtain
correct opening of 0.250".
FIG. 19- Dashpot- Typical

Installation
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
THERMOSTATIC SPRING
HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The automatic choke, where applicable, has an adjustment to control

its reaction to engine temperature by
loosening the clamp screws that retain the thermostatic spring housing
to the choke housing.
The spring housing can be turned
to alter the adjustment. Refer to the
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly, heater hose and mounting bracket
(if so equipped) from the carburettor.
housing clamp retaining screws. Set
the spring housing to the specified
index mark and tighten the clamp
BEND EAR OF
THROTTLE
(AI reQuired)
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100D-2V

CLEARANCE

2. With the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the choke
thermostatic spring housing retainer
screws and set the housing 90 degrees
in the rich direction.
3. Disconnect and remove the
choke heat tube from the choke
housing.
4. Turn the fast idle adjusting
screw outward one full turn.
5. Start the engine, then check for
the specified clearance between the
lower edge of the choke plate and the
air horn wall (Fig. 23) .
specifications, turn the diaphragm
stop screw (located on the underside
of the choke diaphragm housing)
clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase the clearance.
7. Connect the choke heat tube and
set the choke thermostatic spring
housing to specifications. Adjust the
fast idle speed to specifications.
FIG. 21- Choke Plate Pull Down

Clearance - Stromberg WW Series
Depress diaphragm pull rod to the
full limit of its travel and apply light
upward pressure to choke lever to
take up slack in linkage and to deflect
the modulation spring so that the
choke link is at the end of its slot in
1. Loosen the choke thermostatic

spring housing retainer screws and
set the housing 90 degrees in the rich
direction.
2. Position the fast idle speed screw
at the kickdown step of the fast idle
cam. The kickdown step is identified by a V stamped on the cam
(Fig. 24).
On the 351-C engine, a two-piece
fast idle lever is used to provide
clearance between the lever and man-
20-12

DRILL OR GAUGE OF
SPECIFIED CLEARANCE
FOR 351-C ENGINE
Vl261-A
FIG. 24- Fast Idle Levers Used

on the Motorcraft Model2100-D 2-V
Carburettor
FAST IDLE
ADJUSTING SCREW
V1202-A
3. Block the throttle about halfopen so the fast idle cam does not
contact the fast idle adjustment
screw, then insert the bent end of the
wire gauge between the \ower edge of
the piston slot and the upper edge of
the right hand slot in the choke
housing (Fig. 25).
FIG. 23- Choke Plate Pulldown Clearance- Motorcraft Model

21 00-D 2-V Carburettor
ifold, and a tang on the top lever will
align with the V mark on the cam
(Fig. 24).
3. Be sure the cam is at the
kickdown position while checking
or adjusting the fast idle cam
clearance.
Check for the specified clearance
between the lower edge of the choke
plate and the air horn wall. To adjust
the clearance, turn the fast idle cam
clearance adjusting screw clockwise
to increase and counterclockwise
to decrease the clearance.
4. Set the choke thermostatic
spring housing to specifications.
Adjust the anti-stall dashpot, idle
speed and fuel mixture.
DRILL GAUGE OF SPECIFIED

CLEARANCE SIZE

CLEARANCE
1. Remove the air cleaner, then remove the choke thermostatic spring
housing from the carburettor. Toremove the thermostatic spring housing
from the carburettor installed on the
engine, refer to Thermostatic Spring
Housing and Gasket Replacement.
2. Bend a wire gauge of 0.036-inch
diameter at a 90 degree angle approximately %-inch from one end.
APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE TO CHOKE LEVER
FIG. 25 -Choke Plate Pull-Down and Fast Idle Cam Adjustment
V1235-A

4. Pull the choke piston lever
counterclockwise until the gauge is
snug in the piston slot. Hold the wire
gauge in place by exerting light pressure in a rearward direction on the
choke piston lever. Check the choke
plate clearance (Pull down) between
the lower edge of the choke plate and
the wall of the air horn.
5. To adjust the choke plate clearance, loosen the hex. head screw (left
hand thread) on the choke plate shaft
(Fig. 25) and pry the link away irom
the tapered shaft.
Use a drill gauge 0.010-inch
under the specified clearance
between the lower edge of the choke
plate and the wall of the air horn.
Hold the choke plate against the
gauge and maintain a light pressure
in a rearward direction on the choke
lever.
With the choke piston snug against
the 0.036-inch wire gauge and the
choke plate against the drill gauge,
tighten the hex. head screw (left hand
thread) on the choke plate shaft.
The use of a 0.010-inch undersize
drill gauge is to allow for tolerances
in the linkage. Use a drill gauge
equal to the size of the specified
clearance to make a final check.
6. Install the gasket and thermostatic spring housing on the choke
housing. Install the spring housing
retainer and screws.
1. Rotate the spring housing counterclockwise (rich direction) to align

the centre indeJC mark on the choke
housing with the index mark on the
spring housing. Rotate the spring
housing an additional 90 degrees
counterclockwise and tighten the retaining screws.
2. Position the fast idle speed adjusting screw end on the kickdown
(centre) step of the fast idle cam.
lower edge of the choke plate and the
air horn wall. Turn the fast idle cam
adjusting screw inward to increase
the clearance or outward to decrease the clearance. Make sure
the fast idle speed adjusting
screw stays at the kickdown step
of the fast idle cam during the
adjustment.
On the 351-C engine, a two-piece
fast idle lever is used to provide
clearance between the lever and manifold, and a tang on the top lever will
align with the V mark on the cam.
3. Set the thermostatic choke housing to the specified index mark and
tighten the retaining screws.
4. If the choke plate clearance and

fast idle cam linkage adjustment was
performed with the carburettor on
the engine, adjust the engine idle
speed and fuel mixture. Adjust the
anti-stall dashpot (if so equipped).
ACCELERATING PUMP STROKE

ADJUSTMENT:
STROMBERG (BV 2)
Do not remove the carburettor

from the engine to adjust the pump
stroke.
To check the pump stroke:1. Start the engine and run at idle
to normalise engine temperature.
Set the engine to the correct idle
speed. This is important as it gives
the correct closed throttle position.
2. Stop engine and remove air
cleaner assembly and carburettor air
horn.
3. Measure from the top of the
pump piston stem to the top face
of the carburettor main body with
gasket removed (Fig. 26).
20-13
the arm parallel with the pump stem.

6. Return the air horn gasket to
its position and replace the air horn
and air cleaner assembly. The capacity of the accelerator pump is
correctly calibrated at the specified
pump stroke and any variation of
this stroke outside the limits given
must result in reduced performance
and economy.
Stromberg WW Series
With throttle valves fully closed
against their bores (i.e. slow idle
adjustment screw backed out clear of
shut throttle lever), and with pump
rod in throttle lever hole specified,
check the external vent washer opening "J" as shown in Fig. 27.
Bend pump rod at point indicated
to obtain specified opening.
FIG. 27- Accelerator Pump

Clearance -Stromberg WW Series
NOTE: Make sure choke valve is
held open during above check so that
throttle valves can close fully.
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D 2V
FIG. 26- Accelerator (6 cyl.)

Pump Adjustment
4. Open throttle wide and again
measure from the top of the pump
piston stem to the top face of the
carburettor main body with gasket
removed.
5. The difference between these
two measurements will be the
length of the pump stroke. This
length should be within the specified
limits with the mean size of the
limits being desirable.
If the measurement is found to
be outside the specified limits, the
pump stroke can be adjusted by
bending the arm (top, horizontal
position) of the pump rod. No more
than h " to ~~" adjustment should
be required. Two bends in the arm
will be necessary to keep the hole in
The stroke should not be

changed from the specified setting.
If the pump stroke has been
changed from the specified setting
refer to the following instructions to
correct the stroke to specifications.
The primary throttle shaft lever
(overtravel lever) has 4 holes and the
accelerating pump link has 4 holes
(Fig. 28) to control the accelerating
pump stroke.
The accelerating pump operating
rod should be in the specified hole in
the overtravel lever and the inboard
hole (hole closest to the pump
plunger) in the accelerating pump
link (Fig. 28).
1. To release the rod from the retaining clip, press the tab end of the
clip toward the rod; then, at the same
time, press the rod away from the
clip until it is disengaged.
2. Position the clip over the specified hole in the overtravel lever.
20-14

!lEND ROD TO
AD JUS f HUGHT
FIG. 29- Accelerating Pump

Piston Stem Height and Pump
Stroke
I
V1507- B
FIG. 28
"ACCELERATOR PUMP STROKE

MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR"
Press the ends of the clip together

and insert the operating rod through
the clip and the overtravellever. Release the clip to engage the rod.
The accelerating pump stroke has

been set to help keep the exhaust
emission level of the engine within
the specified limits. The additional
holes provided for pump stroke adjustment are for adjusting the stroke
for specific engine applications. The
stroke should not be changed
from the specified setting.
If the pump stroke has been
changed from the specified setting
refer to the following instructions to
correct the stroke to specification.
Before adjusting the accelerating
EJ
pump stroke, measure the height of

the pump piston stem as shown in
Fig. 29. Bend the pump control rod
to correct the piston stem height to
specifications.
If it is necessary to correct the
setting, the pump stroke can be
altered as follows:
1. Remove the pump pivot pin
retainer. Remove pivot pin.
2. Insert the pivot pin into the
desired hole.
3. Install the pivot pin retainer.
Position the pump rod end into the
pump arm and install the retainer.
VENT VALVE ADJUSTMENT:
STROMBERG (BV 2)
The vent valve adjustment is
always performed after the accelera-
FIG. 30- Vent Valve Adjustment

(6 cyl.)
ting pump stroke adjustment has
been completed.
1. Ensure the engine idle speed
is correct and engine is at normal
operating temperature. l'his is important as it gives correct closed
throttle position.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly
and with the throttle in the idle position, loosen the vent valve locknut
and adjust from .05"-.06" to the
closed OSition when throttle is
opened (Fig. 30).
3. Install air cleaner assembly.
TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH AND REAR AXLE
CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID

LEVEL
Schedule, for recommended frequency of service.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION($)
1. Remove the filler plug from the
side of the case.
2. If lubricant does not flow from
the filler hole, fill the case with the

specified lubricant until it is level
with the lower edge of the filler hole.
3. Install the filler plug.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION($)
1. Make sure the car is standing
level. Then firmly apply the parking
brake.
cold, run the engine at fast idle speed
reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm, slow
the engine down to normal idle speed.
all positions, place the lever at P and
check the fluid level.
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before removing the dipstick from the filler
tube.
5. Pull the dipstick out of the tube,
wipe it clean, and push it all the way

back into the tube. Be sure it is properly seated.
mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission.
ADJUST AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION BAND(S)
Schedule, for recommended fre-
FIG. 31-lntermediate Band
quency of service.
C4
INTERMEDIATE BAND
1. Clean all dirt from the band adjusting screw area, remove and disca.cd the lock nut, install a new lock
nut, do not tighten.
10ft. lbs., when using tool J-21111 or
BW-547A-50-2 set the torque wrench
(W & B model 3200B) to 60 in. lbs.
This will result in 10 ft. lbs. torque
at the screw(see Fig. 31).
3. BACK OFF THE ADJUSTING SCREW EXACTLY 1t
TURNS.
turning and torque the lock nut. to
specification.
LOW- REVERSE BAND
Proceed as for intermediate band
adjustment except for Step (3), where
the adjusting screw is backed off
exactly three (3) full turns (see Fig.
32).
BORG WARNER
FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT
Remove the fifteen bolts and lock-
Adiustment - C4
FIG. 32 - Low-Reverse Band
FIG. 33- Front Band Adiustment
Adiustment - C4
FIG. 34- Rear Band Adiustment- Borg Warner
20-15
washers securing the transmtsston

oil pan and detach the oil pan and
gasket. Slacken the adjusting screw
locknut, move the servo lever outwards and place a 0.25 in. gauge
between the servo piston pin and the
adjusting screw (see Fig. 33).
Tighten the adjusting screw to a
torque of 10 in. lbs., tighten the locknut and then remove the gauge block.
Ensure that the mating faces are
clean and refit the oil pan with a new
gasket. Tighten the fifteen bolts in
their lock-washers to a torque of 8 to
10ft. lbs.
REAR-REVERSE BAND
1. Clean all the dirt from the band
adjusting screw area. Loosen the
lock nut several turns.
2. With the tools shown in Fig. 34,
tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10ft. lbs.
exactly i of a turn.
turning and torque the lock nut to
specification.
Where neces~ary, to gain access
to the adjusting screw, support the
transmission with a floor jack and
remove the two nuts securing the
rear support assembly to the subframe. Lower the transmission to
allow sufficient clearance between
the transmission and floor pan.
FMX TRANSMISSION
FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen the pan attaching bolts
starting at the rear of the pan and
working towards the front. When
most of the fluid has drained from the
pan, remove the remainder of the
attaching bolts. If the same fluid is
to be used again in the transmission after the band adjustment,
filter the fluid through a tOOmesh screen as it drains from the
transmission. Make sure that the
20-16
01015-C
FIG. 35- Typical Front Band

Adjustment- FMX
FIG. 36- Adjusting Rear Band

-FMX
container is clean. Reuse the fluid
only if it is in good condition.
2: Remove and thoroughly clean
the pan, then remove the fluid screen
EJ
and clip from the transmission. Clean

the inside of the pan. Do not
attempt to clean the filter. If
dirty install a new one. Discard
the pan gasket. Remove all gasket
material from pan and pan mounting
face of case.
3. Loosen the front servo adjusting
screw locknut two full turns.
4. Pull back on the actuating lever,
then insert the Gauge Block Tool
7225-CI3-B, of front band adjusting
Tool 7225-C (Fig. 35) between the
servo piston stem and adjusting
screw.
Tighten the adjusting screw until
the wr~nch overruns (this should be
exactly 10 in. lbs). Remove the gauge
block. Tighten the adjusting screw an
additional ! turn. Hold the adjusting
screw stationary and tighten the
locknut to specifications.
screen and clip. Install the pan, using
a new gasket.
6. Refill the transmission.
7. Start the engine and engage the
transmission in each drive range to fill
all fluid passages, then place the
selector in the "P" position. Check
the fluid level and add enough fluid
to bring the level above the ADD
mark on the dipstick with engine
running at idle speed.
REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove all dirt from the adjusting screw threads, then oil the
threads.
2. Loosen the reverse band adjusting screw lock nut. Use the tool
shown in Figure 36 to loosen the nut.
Using the torque wrench shown in
Fig. 38 tighten the adjusting screw
until the tool handle clicks. The tool
is a preset torque wrench which
clicks and breaks when the torque on
the adjusting screw reached 10 ft.lbs.
3. If the screw is found to be tighter than wrench capacity (10 ft. lbs
torque), loosen the screw and tighten
until the wrench clicks and breaks.
4. Back off the adjusting screw It
turns. Hold the adjusting screw
stationary and tighten the adjusting
screw lock nut to 35-40 ft.lbs torque.
Severe damage may result if the
adjusting screw is not backed off
exactly 1l turns.
CHECK REAR AXLE FLUID LEVEL
The lubricant level should be

maintained at the lower.edge of the
filler plug hole with the specified
lubricant.
CLUTCH LINKAGE (MANUAL
TRANSMISSION)
There is no adjustment required or

provided for on any of the clutch
systems. The only maintenance required is to top up the master
cylinder to the correct level, approximately t in. below the top face, with
approved fluid.
UNDER BODY, STEERING AND ALIGNMENT
LUBRICATE AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION KICKDOWN
LINKAGE
Lubricate all pivot points in the

kickdown linkage with the specified
engine oil.
LUBRICATE FRONT SUSPENSION
BALL JOINTS
Wipe any accumula~ed dirt from
around the lubrication plugs.
Remove the plugs and install lubrication fittings. Lubricate the ball
joints using a maximum of 10 grams
(one level teaspoon) of the specified
lubricant and remove the lubrication
fittings. Install the plugs.
LUBRICATE UPPER ARM INNER
BUSHES

Schedule, for recommended frequency of lubrication.
By utilising the access holes in the

suspension towers, wipe off any
accumUlated dirt from around the
lubrication fittings and lubricate the
inner bushes using a maximum of
3.2 grams per bushing.
CHECK STEERING GEAR PRELOAD POWER STEERING ONLY
To check and adjust the power

steering gear pre-load it is necessary
to remove the steering box from the
vehicle and carry out the operation
on the bench. See page 3-36
CHECK STEERING GEAR PRELOAD
MANUAL STEERING ONLY
There are only two possible adjust-
ments within the recirculating balltype steering gear, and these should
be made in the following order to
avoid damage or gear failure.
1. Loosen the nut which locks the
sector adjusting screw (Fig. 38), and
turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise.
2. Measure the worm bearing preload by attaching an in. lb. torque
wrench to the steering wheel nut
(Fig. 37). With the steering wheel off
centre, read the pull required to
rotate the input shaft approximately
1t turns either side of centre. If the
torque or preload is not within specication (Part 3-6), adjust as explained
in the next step.
3. Loosen the steering shaft bear-

CHECK BRAKE LINES AND LINING
DRUM BRAKES
FIG. 37- Checking Preload

ing adjuster lock nut, and tighten or
back off the bearing adjuster (Fig. 38)
to bring the preload within the specified limits.
4. Tighten the steering shaft bearing adjuster lock nut, and recheck the
preload.
5. Turn the steering wheel slowly
to either stop. Turn gently against
the stop to avoid possible damage to the ball return guides.
Then rotate the wheel 2! turns to
centre the ball nut.
6. Turn the sector adjusting screw
clockwise until the specified pull
(Part 3-6) is necessary to rotate the
worm past its centre high spot (Fig.
37). No perceptible backlash is permissible at 300 on either side of
centre.
7. While holding the sector adjusting screw, tighten the lock nut to
specification and recheck the backlash adjustment.
8. Connect the Pitman arm to the
sector shaft and torque to specification.
I'IWI PWG
ADJUSTB LOCK NUT
SECTOI SHAFT
ADJUSTING SCREW
FIG. 38- Typical Steering Gear

Adjustments
Raise all four wheels. Remove one

of the front brake drums, and inspect
the drum and the linings (the wheel
bearings should be inspected at this
time and repacked if necessary). Do
not let oil or grease touch the
drum or the linings. If the linings
are worn to within "3~ inch of the
rivet heads on rivetted linings or shoe
on bonded linings, replace or reline
both sets (primary and secondary) on
the front or rear wheels. Under no circumstances replace one lining
only, or one wheel set. Both front
wheel sets or both rear wheel
sets should be replaced whenever
a respective lining or shoe is
worn or damaged. If the drum
braking surface is excessively scored,
refinish it. The condition of the remaining front linings is usually about
the same as that of the one inspected.
The rear brake linings may also need
replacing at the same time.
FRONT WHEEL DISC BRAKES
Raise all four wheels. Remove one

of the front wheel and tyre assemblies, and inspect the disc caliper,
and linings (the wheel bearings
should be inspected at this time and
repacked if necessary). Do not let
oil or grease touch the disc or
the linings. If the linings are V'{Orn
to within 0.030 inch of the surface of
the shoe, replace both sets of shoe
and lining assemblies (inboard and
outboard) on the front wheels.
Under no circumstances replace
one shoe and lining assembly
only, or one wheel set. Both front
wheel sets should be replaced
whenever a respective shoe and
lining is worn or damaged.
If the disc braking surface is
excessively scored, distorted, warped,
worn or shows excessive runout, it
should be replaced. If the caliper is
cracked or otherwise damaged, it
must be replaced as a unit.
With the parking brakes in the
fully released position, check the
brake cables. The cable adjustment
should be just tight enough to remove
the slack. Excessive tightening
may pull the brake shoes off
their anchors.
Check all brake lines for leakage or
physical damage and replace or repair
as .required.
CLEAN AND PACK FRONT WHEEL
BEARINGS
DRUM BRAKES
20-17
1. Raise the car until the wheel and

tyre clear the floor.
cap. Remove the grease cap from the
the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly.
3, Pull the wheel, hub, and drum
the inner bearing cone and roller
assembly from the hub with a drift.
5. Clean the lubricant off the inner
and outer bearing cups with solvent
and inspect the cups for scratches,
pits, excessive wear, and other
damage. If the cups are worn or
damaged, remove them with a drift.
Do not spin the bearings dry
7. Inspect the cone and roller
assemblies for wear or damage, and
replace them if necessary. The cone
and roller assemblies and the
bearings cups should be replaced
as a unit if damage to either is
encountered.
and the inside of the hub with
solvent to remove all old lubricant.
prevent getting dirt on the
spindle, carefully remove the
cloth from the spindle.
9. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the
replacement cup(s) in the hub. Be
sure to seat the cups properly
in the hub.
. 10. No grease should be packed
mto the hubs between the bearing
cups.
with grease.
and ~oller assembly in the inner cup,
and mstall the new grease retainer.
Be sure that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip.
13. Install the wheel, hub, and
drum assembly on the wheel spindle.
20-18
Wi th drum/ d i s c and wheel

r ot ati ng, to rq ue ad jus ting
nut t o 17-25 ft lbs .
Back off adjusting nut

until an end float of
.002-.008"
Selectivly position .tne

nut loc~ retainer on the
adjysting nut and locr
in post tion with a new
cotter pin .
FIG. 39- Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment

INNER
BEARING
HUB AND ROTOR
ASSEMBLY
GREASE
RETAINER
~~~
ADJUSTING
NUT
GREASE
CAP
INNER BEARING
CONE AND
ROLLER
WHEEL
ASSEMBLY
F 1259 - A
FIG. 40- Hub and Bearing- Disc Brakes

Keep the hub centred on the
spindle to prevent damage to the
grease retainer or the spindle
threads.
and roller assembly and the fiat
washer on the spindle; then install
15. Adjust the wheel bearings
(Fig. 39) and install a new cotter
pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin
around the castellations of the nut
lock. Install the grease cap.
cover.
DISC BRAKES
1. Raise the car until the wheel and

tyre clear the floor.
cap.
from the hub.
caliper to the spindle. Remove the
caliper from the disc and wire it to
the underbody to prevent damage to
the brake hose.
5. Remove the grease cap from the
hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut
lock, adjusting nut, and fiat washer

(Fig. 40).
6. Pull the hub and disc off the
wheel spindle.
the inner bearing cone and roller
assembly from the hub.
8. Clean the lubricant off the inner
and outer bearing cups with solvent
and inspect the cups for scratches,
pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If the cups are worn or damaged,
remove them from the hub with a
drift.
Do not spin the bearings with
compressed air.
Inspect the cone and roller assemblies for wear or damage, and replace
them if necessary. The cone and
roller assemblies and the bearing
cups should be replaced as a
unit if damage to either is encountered.
and the inside of the hub with solvent
to remove all old lubricant.
prevent getting dirt on the spindle, carefully remove the cloth

from the spindle.
11. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the
replacement cup(s). Be sure to seat
the cups properly in the hub.
. 12. No grease should be packed
mto the hubs between the bearing
cups.
before repacking them, with new
with grease.
and install the new grease retainer.
Be sure that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around the seal lip.
15. Install the hub and rotor on the
wheel spindle. Keep the hub centred on the spindle to prevent
damage to the grease retainer or
the spindle threads.
and roller assembly and the fiat
washer on the spindle, then install
the adjusting nut.
disc and install the attaching bolts.
18. Install the wheel and tyre on
the hub.
19. Adjust the wheel bearings, and
install a new cotter pin. Bend the
ends of the cotter pin around the
castellations of the nut lock. Install
the grease cap.
cover and lower the car.
CHECK AND ADJUST PARKING
BRAKE LINKAGE
Check the parking brake cables

when the brakes are fully released.
If the cables are loose, adjust them
as follows:
1. Fully release the parking brake
by turning the handle counter clockwise and pushing it inward.
2. Pull the parking brake handle
outward to the first notch from its
normal released position.
3. Raise the car and loosen the
adjustment lock nut.
4. Turn the locking adjustment nut
forward against the equalizer until a
moderate drag is felt when turning
the rear wheels in the direction of
forward rotation (Fig. 41).
20-19
VIEW .. C.CLE W
TYPICAL 3 ~ACES
VIEW
IN CIRCLE Y
YIEW .. CIRCLE T
TORO.I. 'TO
?-10 LI. H
VIEW IN
OACL[
FIG. 41 -Parking Brake Linkage

5. Release the parking brake, and
make sure that the brake shoes return
to the fully released position and no
drag is felt when turning the rear
wheels.
CHECK TIRE PRESSURES
Check all tyres for specified pressures (cold).

INSPECT AND CROSS-SWITCH
WHEELS AND TIRES
Switi::h tyres according to Fig. 42.

Tighten the wheel nuts to specified
torque.
CHECK FRONT WHEEL
ALIGNMENT AND LINKAGE

CHECKS
Do not check and adjust front
wheel alignment without first
making the following inspection
for front end maladjustment,
damage, or wear.
1. Check for specified air pressures
in all four tyres.
2. Raise the front of the car off the
floor. Shake each front wheel grasp-
ing the upper and lower surfaces of

the tyre. Check the front suspension
ball joints and mountings for looseness, wear, and damage. Check the
brake backing plate mountings. Torque all loose nuts and bolts to
specifications.
3. Check the steering gear mountings and all steering linkage connections for looseness. Torque all
mountings to specifications. If any of
the linkage is worn or bent, replace
the parts.
4. Check the front wheel bearings.
If any in-and-out free play is noticed,
adjust the bearings to specification.
Replace worn or damaged bearings.
5. Check and balance each wheel
as required.
F1019-A
FIG. 42- Tyre Cross-Switching

Diagram
6. Check the action of the shock

absorbers. If the shock absorbers are
not in good condition, the car may
not settle in a normal, level position,
and front wheel alignment may be
affected.
Wheel Inspection. Wheel hub
nuts should be inspected and tightened to specification at pre-delivery.
Loose wheel hub nuts may cause
shimmy and vibration. Elongated
stud holes in the wheels may also
result from loose hub nuts.
Keep the wheels and hubs clean.
Stones wedged between the wheel
and drum and lumps of mud or
grease can unbalance a wheel and
tyre.
Check for damage that would
affect the runout of the wheels. Wobble or shimmy caused by a damaged
wheel will eventually damage the
wheel bearings. Inspect the wheel
rims for dents that could permit air
to leak from the tyres.
Check all the factors of front wheel
alignment except the turning angle
before making any adjustments. The
turning angle should be checked only
after caster, camber, and toe-in have
20-20
been adjusted to specifications.

Equipment Installation. Equipment used for front wheel alignment
inspection must be accurate. If portable equipment is being used, perform all inspection operations on a
level floor.
Alignment height spacers (Figs. 44
and 45) are used to check caster and
camber except on GT. The spacers
should be omitted when checking
toe-in.
1. Drive the car in a straight line
far enough to establish the straightahead position of the front wheels,
and then mark the steering wheel hub
and the steering column collar (Fig.
43). Do not adjust the steering
wheel spoke position at this time.
If the front wheels are turned at any
time during the inspection, align the
marks to bring the wheels back to the
straight-ahead position.
ALIGNMENT MARKS
FIG. 43- Straight Ahead
Position Marks Tool -
+3
Typical
3000- A or B
FIG. 45- Alignment Spacers-
Rear
2. With the car in position for the

front end alignment inspection and
adjustment, install the alignment
spacers as follows to establish th.::
curb height.
Insert the pin in the spacer hole
marked for the model being checked.
Raise the front of the car and
position the alignment spacers between the suspension upper arm and
the spring tower as shown in Fig. 44.
The lower end of the spacer should
be placed over the head of the ball
joint front outside attaching rivet.
Position the alignment spacers for
the rear of the car between the rear
axle and the side rail as shown in
(Fig. 45).
FIG. 44- Alignment Spacers -
Front
CASTER ADJUSTMENT
wheels are tilted at the top. If a

wheel tilts outward, camber is positive. If a wheel tilts inward, camber
is negative. Correct camber specifications are given in Part 3-7. The
maximum difference between both
front wheel camber angles should not
exceed to. However, a difference of
not more than ! o is preferred.
Toe-In. Before attempting to
check toe-in, remove all the alignment spacers. Toe-in should only be
checked and adjusted after the caster
and camber have been adjusted to
specifications. Check the toe-in with
STRUT
3. Install the wheel alignment

equipment on the car. Whichever
type of equipment is used, follow
the installation and inspection instructions provided by the equipment
manufacturer.
Caster. Check the caster angle at
each front wheel.
The caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the top of the wheel
spindle. If the spindle tilts to the
rear, caster is positive. The spindle
tilts to the front, caster is negative.
See Part 3-7 for the correct caster
specifications. The maximum difference between both front wheel caster
angles should not exceed f However, a difference of not more than
! o is preferred.
0
Camber. Check the camber angle

at each front wheel.
Camber is the amount the front
FIG. 46- Caster and Ca.mber Adiustments
20-21

the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position. Run the engine so that
the power steering control valve
will be in the centre (neutral)
position if so equipped. Measure
the distance between the extreme
front and also between the extreme
rear of both front wheels. The differrenee between these two distances is
the toe-in. Specifications are in
Part 3-7.
Front Wheel Turning Angle.

When the inside wheel is turned 20,
the turning angle of the outside
wheel should be as specified in Part
3-7. The turning angle cannot be
adjusted directly because it is a result
of the combination of caster, camber,
and toe-in adjustments and should
therefore, be measured only after
these adjustments have been made.
If the turning angle does not measure
to specifications, check the spindle or
other suspension parts for a bent
condition.
Mter front wheel alignment factors
have been checked, make the necessary adjustments. Do not attempt
to adjust front wheel alignment
by bending the suspension or
steering parts.
CASTER AND CAMBER
ADJUSTMENTS
Caster is controlled by the front
suspension strut (Fig. 46). To obtain
negative caster, loosen the strut front
nut and tighten the strut rear nut
against the bushing. To obtain positive caster, loosen the strut rear nut
and tighten the strut front nut
against the bushing.
Camber. Camber is controlled by
the eccentric cam located at the lower
arm attachment to the side rail (Fig.
46). To adjust the camber, loosen the
eccentric bolt nut and rotate the bolt
and eccentric clockwise from the high
position to increase camber or counterclockwise to decrease camber.
Mter the caster and camber have
been adjusted to specification, torque
the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and
the s_trut front nut to specification.
TOE-IN AND STEERING WHEEL
SPOKE POSITION ADJUSTMENTS
Check the steering wheel spoke
position when the front wheels are
in the straight-ahead position. If the
spokes are not in their normal position, they can be properly adjusted
while toe-in is being adjusted.
1. Loosen the two clamp bolts on
each spindle connecting rod sleeve
(Fig. 47).
SLEEVE
noaa-
FIG. 47- Spindle Connecting Rod
Sleeve
CLAMP BOLTS
2. Adjust toe-in. If the steering

wheel spokes are in their normal
position, lengthen or shorten both
rods equally to obtain correct toe-in
(Fig. 49). If the steering wheel
spokes are not in their nortmll position, make the necessary rod adjustments to obtain correct toe-in and
steering wheel spoke alignment.
3. Recheck toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position. If toe-in is
correct and the steering wheel spokes
are still not in their normal position,
turn both connecting rod sleeves
upward or downward the same
number of turns to move the steering
wheel spokes (Fig. 50).
4. When toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position are both correct,
torque the clamp bolts on both connecting rod sleeves to specification.
The sleeve position should be
as shown in Fig. 48 when the
clamp bolts are tightened.
FIG. 48-Spindle Connecting Rod

Sleeve Clamp Position
TURN DOWNWARD TO
INCREAsE ROD l.fNGTH
TUIN UPWARD
TO DECREASE
~'6;~-;
Lin-HAND SLIIVI
TUIN
DOWNWARD
TO DECREASE
TUIN Uf'WAID TO
INCREASE ROD lfNGTH
Cfl
liGHT-HAND SL11V1
P1037-1
FIG. 49- Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustments

WHEN TOE . IH IS CORRECT
TURN IIOTH CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST
SPOKE POSITION
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD

SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO
IS~
WHEN TOEIN
NOT CORRECT
LENGTHEN LEFT ROO TO
INCREASE TOE IN
LENGHTEN RIGHT ROO

TO INCREASE TOE -IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROO

TO DECREASE TOE .IN
ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NVRMAL SPOKE POSITION
FIG. 50- Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Adjustments
20-22
~~
BODY
LUBRICATE BONNET LATCH
Apply Petroleum Jelly to all pivot

points and to the striker plate as
required to eliminate any binding
condition. Operate the latch mechanism several times to be sure that the
lubricant has effectively worked in.
LUBRICATE BONNET SAFETY
CATCH
Apply Petroleum Je11y to ail pivot

points as required to eliminate any
binding conditions. Operate the catch
several times to be sure that the
lubricant has effectively worked in.
LUBRICATE BONNET HINGE
PIVOTS
Apply approved Engine Oil to the

hinge pivot points as required. Open
and close the bonnet several times
to be sure that the hinge pivots do
not bind.
REPLACE WINDSHIELD WIPER
BLADES
Wiper blade replacement inter-vals

will vary with the amount of use,
type of weather, chemical reaction
from road tars or salts and the age
of the blades. Be sure that the windshield glass surface is not contaminated with oil, tree sap or other
foreign substance which cannot be

easily rubbed off.
Generally, if the wiper pattern
across the glass is still uneven and
streaked after these tests, replace the
blades.
LUBRICATE DOOR LOCK
CYLINDERS
Apply Ford locK lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the key
and operate the lock several times to
be sure that the lubricant has
effectively worked in.
LUBRICATE DOOR HINGE AND
HINGE CHECK
Apply approved Engine Oil on the

hinge pivot points as required to
eliminate any binding condition.
Open and close the door several times
to be sure that the lubricant has
effectively worked in.
make doors easier to close.

LUBRICATE LUGGAGE
COMPARTMENT LOCK CYLINDER
Apply Ford lock lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert
the key and operate the lock s_everal
times to be sure that the lubricant
has effectively worked in.
LUBRICATE LUGGAGE
COMPARTMENT HINGE PIVOTS

Apply approved Engine Oil to the
hinge pivot points as required. Open
and close the luggage compartment
several times to be sure that the
hinge pivots do not bind.
LUBRICATE TAILGATE LOCK
CYLINDER
LUBRICATE SEAT TRACK
Apply Ford lock lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the
key and operate the lock.
Use Petroleum Jelly on the seat

track slides, as required, for ease of
operation.
CLEAN BODY DRAIN HOLES OR

EXAMINE DUST VALVES FOR
PROPER OPERATION
LUBRICATE WEATHERSTRIP AND

RUBBER SEALS
Make sure the drain holes in the

doors, rocker panels and quarter
panels are free from obstruction.
Visually check the dust valves for
proper sealing and draining operation.
Use Silicone Lubricant AM400 to

lubricate door weatherstrips to
eliminate weatherstrip squeaks and
SPECIAL TOOLS
GROUP
21
PAGE
PART 21-1-
Special Tools
21-2
21-2
PART
21-1
SPECI AL
TOOLS
The service tools illustrated in this

part have been developed especially
for Ford vehicles by the Sales Service
Engineering Department.
are essential to prevent damage to

parts, to assure correct assembly and
quality workmanship, or where substantiated time saving can be achieved
by the use of the tool.
Engineering prototypes, test vehicles, assemblies and components

are used to thoroughly evaluate the
need for Special Service Tools . During this evaluation, general purpose
hand tools are used wherever possible
for assembly, disassembly and adjustment. Special Service Tools are
developed and specified where they
This part lists Special Service

Tools in two categories.
MANDATORY: These are tools
which are considered essential to performance of quality service work. It
is required that these tools be available in every dealership service area
and that they be consistently used
in the service operations for which

they are specified.
RECOMMENDED: These are
tools which, while not considered
mandatory, will contribute substantially to the performance of high
quality service work in the minimum
possible time.
Tools indicated * on the following
pages are distributed by George
Sample and Son Pty. Ltd. Those
marked t by Repco . Those marked
** by Litchfield.
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
21-3
1177-C
ReF l11cer-Re"r Wheel Be11ring

Oi Se11l (All Models)
FIG. 1- Replacer-ear Wheel Bearing Oil Seal
REAR AXLE
AGF-1225-A
Re11r Axle Sh.,ft Be11ring Remover

& Repl11cer
FIG. 2-Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer

AGF 1225-A-1
Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover

& Replacer Adaptor
Use with Tool AGF-1225-A
FIG. 3-Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover

& Replacer Adaptor
FIG. 4- Tapered Axle Bearing Remover

- XYTC-1225-A
21-4
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
Breke Tools (Drum Brekes) All

Models
t
2
3
4
M818
M402
M804
M802
Breke Cylinder Clemp

Sternut Breke Tool
Reteining Spring Tool
Return Spring Tool
FIG. 5- Brake Tools (Drum Brakes)

----
-----~,-~
Disc Brake Rotor Gauge
R1102A.
t FIG. 6- Disc Brake Rotor Gauge- R-1102-A
T65P-3A733-A
Power Steering Pump Pulley
Replocer
FIG. 7- Power Steering Pump Pulley Replacer
21-5
\b3L-10300 B
Power Steering PumP Pulley
Remover
t)
FIG. 8- power Steering PumP PulleV Remover
1bSL-33bi0-0
Pressure
Power Steering PumP

Gauge \All Models)
FIG- 9- power Steering pumP Pressure Gauge
XA-3526A
andSP'<"
~::::::::::::=~~="""""""""""=R=em~!ov:e:lnPut) Snaft Seal

** )(A-3521-B
ExtractorWorm Race
** XA-374309-A
Fitting Tool lube Seat
f\G. 12- fitting Tool Tube Seat
21-6
** XA -3771 -A
Wed ge Sl eeve Coupl ing
FIG. 13- Wedge Sleeve Coupling

** XA -3589 -B
** XA -3544-A
Contra ctor Sleeve Rings
Contractor Pisto n Ring
'
1-'
FIG. 14- Contractor Piston Ring
FIG . 15 - Cont ra ctor Sleeve Rings
XA -370 7-A
R 1ng Spanner
FIG. 16 - Ring Spanner
.,. .
XA -3525 -A, 1
Replacer Input Shaft Beari ng
and Sector Shaft Sea l
"
XA -35 25 A
Replacer Input Shaft Bearing
and Sea l
FIG. 17 - Replacer Input Shaft Bearing

and Sector Shaft Seal
FIG . 18 - Replacer Inp ut Shaft Bearing and Seal
PART 21-1- SPECIAl TOOLS

**
**
XA-3576-A3
21-7
XA -3576-A
Sector S haft Bearing Too l
Was her Sector Shaft Bearing

Tool
**
XA -3576-A 1
Sector Shaft Bearing Tool

Spacer
~~
~
0
.
FIG. 21 -Sector Shaft Bearing Tool
II
**
XA -3576-A2
Se<tor Shft Be.riog Tool

Guide
FIG . 20 - Washer Sector
FIG. 19- Sector Shaft
Shaft Bearing Tool
FIG. 22- Sector Shaft Bearing
Bearing Tool Spacer
Tool Guide
**
XA- 10064-A
Mou nt ing Bracket
FIG . 23 - Mounting Bracket
**
XA -3589 -A
**
Expander Sleeve Seals
XA -3775 -A
Gauge for Bearing Spacer
**
XA -371 3- A
F itt ing To ol Outlet Tube
FIG. 25 - Gauge for Bearing

Spacer
FIG. 24 - Expander Sleeve Seals

FIG. 26- Fitting Tool Outlet Tube
GROUP 21-SPECIAL TOOLS
21-8
T65P-3000B
Suspension Alignment Spocers
FIG. 27- Suspension Alignment Spacers
SUSPENSION-STEERING
-WHEELS AND TYRES
ACX 3006
Remover Press-Spindle
Ball Joint (All Models)

ACX 3006 D
Adaptor. Spindle Ball
Press
Joint
FIG. 28- Ball Joint Tool
4010 A
Reor Axle Spreoder ond Adopter
Plotes
Adaptor Plates 40 I0-A- 1
(Jo
0~
FIG. 29- Rear Axle Spreader
PART 21-1- SPECIAl TOOLS
21-9
Limited Slip Rear Axle
Torque Check TooiT65K-4204-A.
FIG. 30- Limited Slip Rear Axle Torque Check Tool- T65K-4204-A
4209 B
FIG. 31 -Pinion Setting Gauge
Pinion Setting Gauge

(All Models)
21-10
GROUP
21- SPECIAL TOOLS
4221 A-8
I Replacer-Differpntial Bearing
Cone (All Models)
4621-B
2 Replacer-Pinion Bearing Cone
(All Models)
FIG. 32- 1. Replacer Differential Bearing Cone

2. Pinion Bearing Cone
-4221 AR
Remover Pilot Differential Bearing Cone
FIG. 33- Remover Pilot Differential Bearing Cone
4615 HF
Replacer-Pinion
Cup
FIG. 34- Replacer- Pinion Bearing Front Cup
Bearing Front
21-11
4625-H R
Replacer-Pinion
Cup
Bea ring
Rear
FIG. 35- Replacer- Pinion Bearing Rear Cup
4676 G
Replacer-Pinion
Models)
Oil Seal
(All
FIG. 36- Replacer- Pinion Oil Seal
t Gauge Tool
Traction Lock DifferentiaiT68P-4946-A.
t FIG. 37- Gauge Tool Traction Lock Differential- T68P-4946-A
MANDATORY TOOLS
Front Suspension
&
Steering
Port No. 53100

Front Spring Remover & Replacer
off T63 P-53 I0-A 1-Screw
00
T63P-5310-A2-Nut
T63P-5310-A3-P1ote
T63P-5310-A -Piote
00
Thurst Beoring to Suit
oo
oo
FIG. 38- Front Spring Remover & Replacer
21-12

f
5781-A
Remover Md Replt~cer, Front
Bushinq Rellr Spring (All Models)
I off T64N-5781-A4-Tube
&!)
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllli ll
TMN-5781-A 1-Remover
& Replt~cer
TMK-5781-82-Spt~cer _
TMK-5781-B 1-Bolt
T64K-5 78.1-83-Nut
TMK-5781-84-Wt~shers
FIG. 39- Remover & Replacer, Front Bushing Rear Spring
M470
Oil
Ct~rtridge
Remover
FIG. 40- Oil Cartridge Remover
ENGINE
* 6000 AE
Brt~cket
Engine Lifting (6 Cyi.J

111\\\1\\11111
FIG. 41 -Bracket Engine Lifting
*t T70P-6011-A
Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug

Installer 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 42- T70P-6011-A

*t Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug Installer - 8-cyl.
21-13
PART 21-1-SPECIAL TOOLS
6019
Pilot Cylinder Block

Front Cover
FIG. 43- Pilot Cylinder Block Front Cover
*t T70P-6049-A
Valve Spring Compressor 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 44- T70P-6049-A

Valve Spring Compressor - 8-cyl.
, ~
'
'1
l
* t T70P-68070-A
Front Cover Seal Installer 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 45- T70P-6B070-A

Front Cover Seal Installer- 8-cyl.
* t T70P-6B070-B
Front Cover Seal Remover.
*t FIG. 46- T70P-6B070-B

Front Cover Seal Remover - 8-cyl.
Reamer -
Valve Guide.
Reomer Kit Oversize Valve Guides

(0.003"-0.015"-0.030")
t 6085 B
All engines.
eo
Cl
FIG. 47- Reamer- Valve Guide
21-14
..
,.
:,.i
....
~~.,..,..
...,,--.,;.!"cr.<'
>'::""""
. . '"
__ .,. . _...,,.
..,
'
*t T68P-6135-A.
Remover Replacer Piston Pin.
All engines.
FIG. 48 - T68P-6135-A
Remover-Replacer Piston Pin All Engines
6261
Remover & Replocer Comshoft

Beorings
FIG. 49- Remover & Replacer Camshaft Bearings
6261 AD
Remover & Replacer-Adoptors
Camshaft Bearing (8 Cyl.)
FIG. 50- Remover & Replacer Adaptor Camshaft Bearing
Replacer Camshaft
Rear Bearing Plug T62F-6266-A.
t FIG. 51 - Replacer Camshaft Rear Bearing Plug- T62F-6266-A
21-15
*t 6306-AG.
Remover- Crankshaft Pulley.
All engines.
*t FIG. 52- 6306-AG

Remover- Crankshaft Pulley- All Engines
* 6500 E
Hydraulic Tappet Tester.
Use oil 6500 Det 2.
FIG. 53- Hydraulic Tappet Tester

* t T?OP-6505-A.
Valve Stem Deburring Button.
*t FIG. 54- T70P-6505-A

Valve Stem Deburring Button
6513 AG
Hydroulic Volve Lifter
Down Tool (b Cyl.)
Bleed
FIG. 55- Hydraulic Valve Lifter Bleed Down Tool
* 6513 H
Volve Spring Compressor
(6 Cyl.)
FIG. 56- Valve Spring Compressor
21-16
* t T70P-6K517-A.
Water Pump
Installer.
Bypass
Plate
*t FIG. 57- T70P-6K517-A Water Pump

Bypass Plate Installer
*t T70P-6564-A
Tappet Bleed Down Wrench 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 58- T70P-6564-A

Tappet Bleed Down Wrench- 8-cyl .
6700
Remover and Replacer Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (6 Cyl.)
FIG. 59- Remover & Replacer Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Replacer Crankshaft
Rear Oil Seal.
T?OPG-6701-B 6 Cyl.
670 1-E 8 Cyl.
FIG. 60- Replacer Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
21-17
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
t * 7000 AF 6 CYL.
t T57P-7697-A 8 CYL.
-~-
Remover Extension Housing

Bush. Use with Slide Hammer 982019
FIG. 61 -Remover- Extension Housing Bush
7111
Ret11iner-Ciuster Ge11r
Be11rings (All Models)
FIG. 62- Retainer Cluster Gear Roller Bearings
t FIG. 63- Gear Shift Linkage Grommet Pliers- 7341-C
--
_ _ ,_ .... .
.
Twin Disc Clutch
Aligning Pilot- 7550-A.
'
t FIG. 64- Twin Disc Clutch Aligning Pilot- 7550-A
t *
t
7657-G 6 CYL'.
T61L-7657-A 8 CYL.
Replacer Extension
Bush & Seal
Housing
FIG. 65- Replacer- Extension Housing Bush & Seal
Roller
21-18
t *
7657-G-27 6 CYL.
T61L-7657-Al 8 CYL.
Adaptor-Replacer
Housing Bush
Extension
FIG. 66- Adaptor- Replacer Extension Housing Bush
77047-Bl
Input Shaft Oil Seal
Replacer VB 3SPD
77~7-B
Replacer-Input Shaft Oil Seal
FIG. 67- Replacer-Input Shaft Oil Seal
21-19
PART 21-1-SPECIAL TOOLS
..-
'
FIG. 68- Remover & Replacer Adaptors C4 Auto Trans Bushings- T66L-7003-B
"T1
G')
C)
.,"'
c:
(/)
"U
I)>
r-
0
0r-
(/)
5 Replacer- Front Pump Oil Seal - T63L-77837-A

6 Replacer- Transmission Extension Housing Oil Seal Assembly
- T61L-7657-A
7 Automatic Transmission Clutch Spring Compressor- T65L-77515-A
8 Replacer- Transmission Extension Housing Bushing - AT-7697-B
21-21
1- 5/16" Socket 3/8" Drive Socket- Clutch Race to Case Bolb

2 - AF2-440S-TV Crowfoot Wrench, Vacuum Control Unit
3- W & B Tension Wrench, Model 32008
FIG. 70
Rear Band Adjuster.

* J2 11 11.
FIG. 71 -Rear Band Adjuster
* BW 35
Bench Cradle Adaptor
(All Models)
FIG. 72- Bench Cradle Adaptor
21-22
BW 37 A
Clutch Spring Compressor
(All Models)
FIG. 73- Clutch Spring Compressor
t BW 38
Hydraul ic Pressure Test Gauge
Kit (All Models)
FIG. 74- Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge Kit
BW 38 Z
FIG. 75- Banjo Adaptor Detail1
Banjo Adaptor (All Models)
* Banjo Ada ptor Detail 2.
FIG. 76- Banjo Adaptor Detail 2
21-23
* BW 41
Rear Clutch Piston Replacer
FIG. 77- Rear Clutch Piston Replacer
BW 42
Front Clutch Piston Replacer
FIG. 78- Front Clutch Piston Replacer
BW 548-1
Torque Screw Driver Adaptor
FIG. 79- Torque Screw Driver Adaptor
* BW -548 -2
Front Servo Adaptor
FIG. 80- Front Servo Adaptor Typical
21-24
.
-
'.C!!_ __
~
-
-~~~~
--~
* t T?O PG-8530-A .
Remove r, Rep la ce r - Water Pump
Shaft & Bea ring . 6 Cy l.
*t FIG. 81 - T70PG -8530-A

Remover-Replacer"Water
Pump Shaft & Bearing, 6 Cyl.
T?OPG-8564-A.
Installer Water Pump Seal.

6 Cyl.
* t FIG. 82- T70PG -8564-A

Installer - Water Pump Seal, 6 Cyl.
8620 B
Drive Belt Tens ion Gauge
FIG. 83- Drive Belt Tension Gauge
21-25
PART 21- J- SPECIAL TOOLS
Carburettor Tools. {6 Cyl.)

I 9533.A Jet Wrench
2 9550-A Float Arm Setting Tool
3 9A516-A Discharge Jet Remover
FIG. 84- Carburettor Tools
AGI6
Vacuum Gloss lifte,
FIG. 85- Vacuum Glass lifter
TM-F-<42006
Windshield Upper Moulding Remover
FIG. 86- Windshield Upper Moulding Remover
21-26
BODY
SP 1832-12
Windshield Coulking Gun
(All Models)
FIG. 87- Windshield Caulking Gun
GROUP 21- SPECIAl TOOlS
21 - 2 7
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL INDEX

Description
Tool No.
Ill ustration
Fig . No.
WHEELS
Replacer Rear Wheel Bearing
Oil Seal
1177C
Axle Shaft Bearing Remover &
Replacer
AGF - 1225-A
Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover
& Replacer Adaptor
AGF-1225-A-1
Tapered Axle Bearing Remover
XYTC-1225-A
BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake Cyl1nder Clamp
Star Nut Brake Tool
Return Spring Tool
Disc Brake Rotor Gauge
M818
M402
M802
R1102-A
2
3
4
5
5
5
6
POWER STEERING SY ST EM
Repla cer
Remover
Power Steering Pump
Pressure Gauge
Remover Input Shaft Sea l
and Spacer
Extractor Worm Race
Fitting Too l Tube Seat
Wedge Sleeve Coupling
Contractor Piston Ring
Contractor Sleeve Rings
Ring Spanne r
and Sector Shaft Seal
and Seal
Sector Shaft Bearing ToQJ
Spacer
Washer Sector Shaft Bearing
Tool
Guide
Mounting Bracket
Expander Sleeve Seals
Gauge for Bearing Spacer
Fitting Too l Outlet Tube
Description
Tool No.
Replacer-Pinion Bearing Cone

Remover-Pilot Differential
Bearing Cone
Replacer-Pinion Bearing
Front Cup
Replacer-Pinion Bearing
Rear Cup
Replacer Pinion Oil Seal
Gauge Tool Traction Lock
Differential
Ill us t ration
Fig . No.
4621-B
32
4221 -AR
33
4615-HF
34
4625-HR'
4676-G
35
36
T68P-4946-A
37
5310-D
38
5781-A
39
M470
6000AE
40
41
T70P-6011-A
6019
42
43
T70P-6049-A
44
T70P-6B070-A
45
T70P-6B070-B
46
6085-B
Reamer Valve Guide All Engines
Piston Pin Remover & Replacer
All Engines
T68P-6135-A
Remover & Replacer Camshaft
6261-C
Bearing _
Remover & Replacer Adaptor
6261-AD
Camshaft Bearing
Replacer Camshaft Rear
T62F-6266-A
Bearing Plug
Crankshaft Pulley Remover
6306-AG
All Engines
Hydraulic Tappet Tester
6500-E
Valve Stem Deburring Button
T70P-6505-A
47
SPRING SYST EM
Front Spring Remover & Replacer
Remover & Replacer
Front Bushing Rear Spring
ENG tNE SYSTEM

T65P-3A733-A
T65L - 10300-B
T65L-33610-D
XA-3526-A
XA-3521-B
XA-374309-A
XA-3771-A
XA-3544-A
XA-3589-B
XA-3707-A
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
XA-3525-A/1
17
XA-3525-A
18
XA-3576-A l
19
XA-3576-A3
XA-3576-A
20
21
XA-3576-A2
XA-10064-A
XA-3589-A
XA-3775-A
XA -3713-A
22
23
24
25
26
Oil Cartridge Remover

Bracket Engine Lifting 6-cyl.
Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug
Insta ller 8-cyl.
Pilot Cylinder Block Front Cover
Valve Spring Compressor
8-cyl.
Front Cover Aligner & Seal

Insta ller 8-cy I.
Front Cover Seal Remover
8-cyl.
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
SUSPENSION SYSTEM
Suspension Alignment Spacers
Ball Joint Tool Remover Press
Adaptor Ba ll Jo1nt Press
T65P3000-B
ACX3006
ACX3006-D
27
28
28
REAR AXLE SYSTEM

Rear Axle Spreader
Adaptor Plates
L1mited Slip Rear Axle Torque
Check Tool
Pin1on Setting Gauge
Replacer-Differentia l
Bearing Cones
4010-A
401 0-A - 1 & 2
29
29
T65K - 4204 -A
4209 -B
30
31
4221-A&B
32
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Bleed

Down Tool 6-cyl.
6513-AG
Valve Spring Compressor 6-cyl.
6513-H
Water Pump By-pass Plate
T70P-6K517-A
Installer
55
56
57
Tappet Bleed Down Wrench

8-cyl.
Remover & Replacer
Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
6700-C
59
Replacer Crankshaft Rear Oil

Seal 6-cyl.
T70PG-6701-B
60
58
21-28

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL INDEX
Description
Tool No.
Ill ustration
Fig. No.
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM
Bush 6-cyl.
7000AF
Bush 8-cyl.
T57P-7697-A
Retainer Cluster Gear
Roller Bearings
7111-C
Gear Shift Linkage Grommet
Pliers
7341-C
Twin Disc Clutch Aligning Pilot
351 C.I.D .
7550-A
Replacer Extension Housing
Bush & Seal 6-cyl.
7657-G
Replacer Extension Housing
T61 L- 7657-A
Bush & Seal 8-cyl.
Adaptor-Replacer Extension
7657-G-27
Housing Bush 6-cyl.
Adaptor-Replacer Extension
T61 L-7657-A1
Housing Bush 8-cyl.
Replacer-Trans. Input Shaft
77047 - B
Oil Seal 3SPD 6-cyl.
Replacer-Trans. Input Shaft
77047-B1
Oil Seal 3SPD 8-cyl.
Remover & Replacer Adaptors
T66L-7003-B
C4 Auto. Trans. Bushing
Replacer-Front Pump Oil Seal
T63L-77837 -A
C4 Auto. Trans.
Replacer-Extension Housing
T61 L-7657-A
Oil Seal C4 Auto. Trans.
T65L-77515-A
C4 Auto. Trans.
Replacer-Transmission Extension
AT-7697-B
Housing Bush C4 Auto. Trans.
61
61
62
63
64
65
65
Description
Ill ustration
Fig. No.
Tool No.
Socket Clutch Race to Case Bolts

fe-AF
Crowfoot Wrench. Vacuum
AF2 -4405-TV
Control Unit
3200-B
W & B Tension Wrench
Rear Band Adjuster Wrench
J21111
Bench Cradle Adaptor
BW35
BW37A
BW38
Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge Kit
Banjo Adaptor. Detail 1
} BW38-Z
Banjo Adaptor. Detail 2
BW-41
Replacer-Rear Clutch Piston
BW-42
Replacer-Front Clutch Piston
BWA-548-1
Torque Screw Driver Adaptor
BW-548-2-A
Front Servo Adaptor Typical
70
70
70
. 71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
COOLING SYSTEM
66
66
67
Water Pump Shaft & Bearing

Remover-Replacer 6-cyl.
Installer-Water Pump Seal
6-cyl.
Drive Belt Tension Gauge
68
FUEL SYSTEM
69
Jet Wrench
Float Arm Setting Tool
Discharge Jet Remover
Vacuum Glass Lifter
Windshield Upper Moulding
Remover
Windshield Caulking Gun
67
69
69
69
T70PG-8530-A
81
T70PG-8564-A
8620-B
82
83
9533-A
9550-A
9A516-A
AG.16
84
84
84
85
T64F-42006
SP1832-12
86
87
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTIES

Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail

Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
SCHEMATICS
GROUP
22
PAGE
PART 22-1-
Schematics
22-2
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GROUP 22- SCHEMATICS
22-4
r-----~7-----+--~
------5?-----+~
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FIG. 3- Printed Circuit G.T. Falcon and Rallye Pack Only
PART 22-1- SCHEMATICS
HI-
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IND.
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FIG. 4- Printed Circuit Fairlane Only
22-5
22-6
GROUP 22-SCHEMATICS
WIRING COLOUR CODE
39
2
3
5
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
WHITE- BLUE
LT. GREEN- WHITE
GREEN- BLUE
GREEN
GREEN - YELLOW
GREEN- RED HASH
YELLOW- GREEN STRIPE
GREEN- BLACK
RED - BLACK
BROWN
RED- YELLOW
44 GREEN- BLACK
RED- WHITE
53 BLACK- BLUE
54 RED- BLUE
55 YELLOW- BLUE
56 BLUE- YELLOW
57 BLACK
58 WHITE
63 RED
140 BLACK- RED
234 BLUE
16
17
18
19
21
25
26
29
32
35
37
RED-LT. GREEN
WHITE
YELLOW- RED
BLUE- BLACK
BLUE - BLACK
BLACK- RED
YELLOW
YELLOW- WHITE
RED - BLUE
BROWN- YELLOW
BLACK - YELLOW
262
450
482
643
648
763A
904
977
7638
763C
763
BROWN- RED
YELLOW- BLACK
BLUE- RED
BLACK- YELLOW
WHITE- GREEN
BROWN- WHITE
GREEN- RED
PURPLE- WHITE
BROWN- WHITE
ORANGE- WHITE
ORANGE- WHITE
+
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FORD Falcon XA Repair Manual

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-

XA-ZF REPAIR MANUAL

Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited

Reproduction In whole or In part prohibited without written approval

Printed by The Dominion Press-Hedges & Bell , Maryborough, Vic.

The Ford Motor Company of Australia

Limited reserves the right to discontinue models at any time or

FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LIMITED

FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION (XA MODELS) (ZF MODELS)

THIS PLATE IS AFFIXED WITH THE

QLocation: Left hand Upper Firewall Panel.

Prefix: Manufacturers use only.

200 CID Low Octane

Serial No.: Manufacturers use only.

250 CID Low Octane

302 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)

351 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)

351 CID 4V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)

250 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)

Sido No.: Dealer Order No.

PART 1-1-VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION

One letter indicates single tone. Two letters .indicate

**Available on Fleet Orders Only.

RADIOS and ANTENNAS

PART 1-2- ACCESSORIES

Vehicle Trailer Electrical Installation Kit

WHEEL DISCS and COVERS

REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES

FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P

General Broke Service

2-2 . Brake System

GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE

1 Diagnoiis and Testing .. .... ~ ...... ...... ..... , ......

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

approximate inside diameter of the

- POWER BRAKE FUNCTIONAL TEST

For cleaning and inspection refer

don will release the brakes, but

The differential valve switch is

2. Tum the ignition switch to the

PART 2-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE

mph to check for the c:xistence of the

The car should be road tested only

If the preliminary tests show that

listed in Table 2, Page 2-7 the trouble

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

The brake systems of all car models

Check the parking brake cables

When any part of the hydraulic

With disc brakes, more pumping .

On all vehicles except the G.T. the

The primary and secondary (front

1. To bleed the secondary (rear)

FIG. 1 - Wrench for Bleeding

Bleed the longest lines first. The

with clean brake fluid, and loosen the

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

eliminate the wheel bearing end play

ing dimension from the inboard

FIG. 2 - Disc Brake Rotor

PART 2.-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE

front end components, to avoid