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EXTRACTION 1. Pulverize the grass cuttings as much as you can.

You must
do this to rupture the cellular structure the plant. A good
way is to put the plant material in the freezer overnight,
remove the next day, thaw it, put it in the freezer again, and
then remove and thaw it again. After two or three such cycles
it will usually be mushy and easily minced in a blender. Place
the phalaris in the blender when it is frozed and the blender
will chop it easier.
2. Next add enough water to the much to make a pourable soup.
3. Now you must add an acid. Just enough to bring the PH down to
about 5. You can use white vinegar, lemon juice, or acetic acid.
Check the PH with PH paper, it is usually sold at most drug
stores. The acid reacts with the alkaloids in the plant
material and converts them into a salt. A good way to
facilitate this reaction is to simmer the acidified soup in a
slow cooker overnight; leave the lid on, as we don't want any
liquid to evaporate.
4. Strain the plant matter through cheesecloth, then through a
paper coffee filter. The bulk roughage may now be discarded
because the alkaloids we seek have migrated into the aqueous
solution.
5. Add a small percentage of a defatting solvent such as methylene
chloride, ether, chloroform, or naphtha. Naptha is easily
available in the form of Coleman fuel or lighter fluid. The
reason we do this procedure is to remove the oils and fats
which are in the solution - they will migrate into the solvent.
Shake up the mixture and put it aside long enough to seperate
into two layers, one aqueous, the other solvent. If you've ever
made vinegar and oil salad dressing then you've seen this done.
6. A separatory funnel is useful for this next operation. This is
a simple lab tool consisting of a tapered glass container
with a tap at the bottom and a stoppered opening at the top.
The two liquids are poured in the top (the bottom faucet is
closed, of course); The container is corked and shaken about
to mix its contents. It is then set aside until the fluids
seperate into 2 layers. Then a tap is opened to allow the lower
stratum to drain into a container. Just before the descending
upper fraction reaches the faucet, it is closed off. You can
also do the above separation procedure with a turkey baster :)
Discard the solvent (along with the unwanted oils and fats) and
now the remaining aqueous solution contains the alkaloids.
7. The next step is to add a base to our solution. One often used
in extraction formulas is ammonium hydroxide, a liquid. If this
is unobtainable you can substitute regular lye crystals. This
is sold as drain cleaner and is also called sodium hydroxide.
Dissolve this is water to a high concentration. This fluid is
added in small increments to the aqueous solution, shaking the
mixture each time, then testing it until eventually the pH
reaches 9 or 10. Be patient. It usually takes a while to
get it just right. Now you have 'unhooked' the salt and
transformed the alkaloids into their freebase form. They are

now no longer a salt, and hence no longer soluble in water...


So now the are accessable to extraction by one of the organic
solvents mentioned above. Using coleman starting fuel is best
and easy to obtain.
8. A ratio of 10 percent of the aqueous solution should be enough
solvent for each extraction. The easiest way to estimate this
is to visualize where the 10% line is on your container of
aqueous solution, then add that amount of solvent to the whole,
increasing the volume to 110% (A super accurate measurement is
not necessary) The container must be kept closed tightly so
that the solvent won't evaporate from the solution.
9. Four extractions are made to make SURE that all of the alkaloids
are removed. These are done at one 24-hour, and then at three
weekly intervals. The solvent layer will soon take on a darker
tint, usually yellowish or reddish-brown. This indicates the
presence of alkaloids as they slowly move out of the aqueous
solution. It will take almost a month to get most of them, and
the mixture should be shaken at least twice a day to ensure
that all of the alkaloid molecules come into contact with the
solvent. At each weekly extraction carefully separate this from
the aqeous solution be either of the methods mentioned above.
Save these solvent fractions and combine them in one container.
each time add fresh solvent to the aqeous solution until the
extraction series is complete.
10. The last step is to pour the combined solvent fractions into a
shallow baking dish or pan and allow it all to evaporate in an
open space free from flame or sparks. The residue remaining
after the evaporation contains the alkaloids, and may be put
into gelatin capsules. If it is unduly gummy, one may add
small amounts of ordinary flour to the gum until it thickens.
---------------Ok, well that's about it for now. Remember to not smoke more than
25 mg your first time. You can gradually raise the dose over time
as you become more experienced.

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6931010
This tek is not mine, but taken from elsewhere on the web...the final product can be washed in a simple
ammonia wash to purify it. No more need for grinding, powdering, freezing, etc.
The main text describes in detail...following this is the numbered steps, with extensive notes following.
For lye, you can use the "Rooter" brand lye from Ace Hardware (powder in a small plastic jar) labeled 100%
lye in yellow on the front.
****************
The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex
A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB
Extraction Time: 1 gm in 2.5 hrs, 4 gm in 7 hr, 7.5 g total @48 hrs from Mexican MHRB Inner Root Bark
Equipment: 5 Litre ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl, stainless stell Potato masher, 2000 ml measuring
cup, Large flat glass baking pan, Fan, VM&P Naphtha; hardware store, NaOH sodium hydroxide; online
auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye.
Foreword:
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All
you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium
hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off
into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with
acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a
very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:
Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough
pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only
fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into
2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark.
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato
masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in
250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root
bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out
and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass
baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in
just a few hours.
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of
root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much
less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard

strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified
solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root
bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of
the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher
than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already
in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat
cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.
Dry defat without acid
Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove
what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry
(no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the
fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat
heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of
naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the
process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified
mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha
still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry"
defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the
plant material at room temperature.
Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark.
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller
or larger amounts:
1. Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is
longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with
lots of extra room left over and set to the side.
2. Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of
NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup.
3. Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside
for two or more hours (longer is better).
4. After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a
couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you
can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).
5. After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking
2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup
easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).
6. After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of
the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the
dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any

of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent
now leaving everything else behind in the bowl.
Note: If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it
to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out.
7. Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the
basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for
evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several
fold faster.
8. After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the
glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best
to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the
larger white clumps.

Extraction notes:
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without
discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes
the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs
to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified
uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.
Soaking the root bark in basified water
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1
hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost
immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which
after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown.
The first extraction cycle:
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30
minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by
the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified
portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix
into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner
Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it.
Second extraction, NaOH doubled:
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so
75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix
with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and
carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to
be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH

for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this
base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark.
Third extraction
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was
added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield
about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha
(which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous
solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.
Forth extraction, long soak:
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had
been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from
this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close
to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+
hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl.
Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming:
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another
24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed
to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a
difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2
grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even
greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for
this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the
water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was
highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the
root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark.
Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems:
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl,
stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an
hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to
be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as
the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the
warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2
grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon
cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was
obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm
wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark
when heated too far in the base solution.
Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work:

Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just
throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved
into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring
just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix
should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four
separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very
successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with
more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still
continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time,
although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before
considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it.
Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix:
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of
the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you
can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the
solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out.
To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark:
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that
the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a
good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was
greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different,
although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syruplike liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high
percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant
fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the
answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make
sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which
showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of
120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the
gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure
this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal
room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to
120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation.
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down
by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of
the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly
soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak
the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically
break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield.
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have

not verified this report I did get a runny extract when the temperature was allowed to rise to 130+ degrees
for an hour. Just in case, if you do one of these extractions at the high pH called for in this tech to help break
the root bark down (and to increase the amount of yield which comes over at a pH of 13.5) I would limit the
amount of time the root bark soaks in the basified mix to no more than three days.
A few last words about the tek
Although I have written this tek as a how to do guide, it is also a report and not meant to imply that this is
"the way" to do an extraction, it is just one way which I am sure can be improved upon as people start
getting more experience with it. I might not be doing everything just right, but I think I am close with the
amount of yield that I was able to get. Heating is the big question, should we heat a basified mix at all? I
don't know, but the yields do come over fast if you do. Maybe the safe thing to do is only heat the mix just
prior to the last hour or so and keep the mix at room temperature the rest of the time.

http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/extraction_guide1/dmt_extraction
_guide1.shtml

NOTE OF WARNING: QT's DMT Extraction for Students is archived by Erowid as a historical document.
The process as described has been critiqued as flawed and dangerous several ways. Safer and more
effective DMT extraction and purification techniques have been developed and made available in the years
since the document below was created. For one such process, see Noman's "DMT for the Masses".
Specific concerns regarding QT's tek, detailed below, were sent to Erowid on behalf of the community
at The DMT Nexus, who note: "Time and time again, people have come to The DMT Nexus or other web
forums because they were following QT's tek and it either didn't work or they ran into serious issues trying
to follow it. Our largest concerns with QT's tek are related to health and safety. Throughout the tek,
comments on safely handling chemicals are scant. If we've learned one thing, it's that people doing
extractions by following a tek as though it's a recipe often are not sticklers for proper handling and safety.
Following the tek as it is written could lead to serious bodily harm, it may not successfully extract DMT, and
even if some DMT is obtained, there is a strong possibility of it being contaminated with toxic substances."
Erowid is grateful to be able to share the detailed commentary and harm-reduction efforts of The DMT
Nexus folks. -- The Erowid Crew, February 4, 2011
Health and Safety Concerns
1) The tek recommends using hydrochloric acid without appropriate guidance on safe handling. While it
also mentions other acids, HCl is specifically recommended. However, weaker acids like citric acid or

vinegar are preferable alternatives because they can be handled more safely and are readily available at
grocery stores.
2) While the tek mentions the health hazards of working with dichloromethane (DCM), it fails to note the
flammability hazards of naphtha and ether. It likewise does not mention the intoxication hazards from the
fumes, which necessitate minimizing contact and using them in a well-ventilated and spark-free area (and
some fans that one might use for ventilation could have the potential of creating sparks).
3) The tek describes a method for obtaining ether from starting fluid. This method will generally not obtain
pure ether. Unless the extractor has a good working knowledge of chemistryand has consulted the Material
Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the specific starter fluid, this could easily lead to very unhealthy
contaminants in one's end product. The tek specifically mentions Coleman fuel, Zippo lighter fluid, and
Ronsonol, all of which have been reported to contain non-volatile contaminants. Particularly since the tek
instructs the extractor to obtain the final product by evaporation, this seriously needs to be addressed to
prevent people from unwittingly smoking harmful contaminants.
4) No health and safety warnings are provided with regard to chloroform, which may be carcinogenic and
can have other negative health effects if not handled properly.
5) Suggesting that people employ ziploc bags as separatory funnels is hazardous in a couple of ways.
Such bags are not made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE), a plastic known to have a high resistance
to chemical solvents. Ziploc bags contain plasticizers (additives that increase flexibility, and that have been
implicated in adverse effects on health when consumed), which would likely leach into naphtha; and since
the naphtha is being evaporated, these plasticizers will end up in the extracted DMT. While the tek does
suggest making sure that the solvent used doesn't melt the bag, this ignores the likelihood that it may leach
harmful contaminants. (The suggestion to use a "turkey baster" may present a similar problem, depending
on what type of plastic it is constructed from.) Furthermore, there's a very good chance of spilling caustic
chemicals if the ziploc bag fails to work as anticipated.
6) The tek calls for "warm naphtha" on multiple occasions, but makes no mention of how to go about safely
warming this flamable solvent. If unwary extractors were to heat it on a gas stove, they could easily find
themselves with a fireball in their face!
7) The tek does not present sufficient safety warnings regarding lye (sodium hydroxide). "Take proper
precautions" is not specific enough advice. When working with lye, one should wear shatter-resistant antifog safety goggles, chemical-resistant (nitrile) safety gloves, a vapor/fluid-resistant face mask, and a
polyethylene safety apron, to prevent blindness and chemical burns. One should also have an acid such as
vinegar on-hand to neutralize any possible lye spills.
8) The tek recommends obtaining the DMT by evaporating-off the naphtha. Before it was widely known that
purification could be performed via freeze-precipitation, this might have been excusable, if not for the fact
that many of the tek's recommended varieties of naphtha include non-volatile contaminants, and the tek
suggests employing non-HDPE plastics. Considering the processes recommended in the tek, any DMT
obtained by evaporation is reasonably likely to be tainted with harmful contaminants and would not be safe
to consume. The tek acknowledges that the product will be impure, but provides no information on purifying
it. Indeed, it explicitly seems to recommend consuming it, impurities and all. And "Don't worry about
weighing it" is bad advice, plain and simple.
Technical Errors
1) Incorrect terminology is used in step 3. One is not converting the DMT to a salt; it's already a salt in the
plant material. And, of course, the ions dissociate when salts dissolve. The step might be more
appropriately titled "Dissolving DMT Cations in Water", or at least "Dissolving Salts of DMT".

2) Incorrect terminology is used in step 8. One is not unhooking the DMT salts (they're in solution, so they
aren't really hooked together at all). One is actually deprotonating the DMT cations to generate the freebase.
3) QT suggests that ammonia is typically used to basify, and that this tek's use of lye is a departure from
the norm. However, ammonia is not an effective base for Mimosa tenuiflora[= M. hostilis] root-bark (MHRB).
All one will get is a stubborn emulsion.
4) The recommended pH after adding the base is too low; pH 9 is not high enough. With MHRB in particular
there are serious emulsion issues at pH 9; but even ignoring that, pH 9 is only 0.32 above the pKa (log10 acid dissociation constant) of DMT--not terribly efficient.
5) The tek states that it is ideal to extract an alkaloid at its pKa. This not necessarily true. At its pKa, half of
the alkaloid is protonated and the other half unprotonated. In ideal conditions (i.e., assuming infinite
solubility in the nonpolar extraction solvent), this is sufficient since Le Chtelier's principle is on one's side.
But unless there are instability-related complications or other factors to account for, it's better to have the
vast majority of the alkaloid in the desired form (in this case, unprotonated)--especially with MHRB, where
emulsions are a crucial issue.
6) The tek treats emulsions as though they are inevitable, that one should not be concerned if these take
several days to resolve, and that it's near-miraculous for an emulsions to resolve in less than an hour. This
is insanity. Emulsions can be prevented by ensuring sufficiently high pH and by mixing gently (rather than
shaking, as the tek suggests). The addition of plain salt may be employed as a further preventative
measure.
7) The tek suggests that the final product may contain "hydroxide". Hydroxide is not a molecule, it's an ion.
It is possible that the product could contain sodium hydroxide or other hydroxide salts, but neither of the
recommended methods for eliminating the "hydroxide" would help at all if the product actually were
contaminated with sodium hydroxide or another hydroxide salt.
Practical Issues
1) The pH for step 2 is unnecessarily low. While pH 2 won't hurt anything, it's a waste of materials.
2) Ridiculously long times are presented for the aqueous acidic extraction. The tek recommends 24 hours
for the first soak, and a whole week for subsequent soaks. In reality, simmering 15-30 minutes three times
will get most of the DMT out of the MHRB and into solution. There is no need to spend two weeks; this step
can be done in two hours or faster.
3) The tek recommends defatting, even though it is designed for use with MHRB, which is not a fatty
material. This is a waste of solvent and time.
4) Step 7 says to add warm naphtha to the acidic MHRB extract and shake it for five minutes before adding
lye. This won't accomplish anything.
5) The tek says to repeat steps 7-9 two more times. In step 8, one is told to add 5 grams of lye to the mix. Is
the tek really suggesting that this step is also supposed to be repeated, with more lye added each time? Of
course, that extra lye isn't going to hurt--on the contrary, it will likely bring the pH up into a more practical
range than the tek (seems to) recommend. But why is the tek suggesting that one add more base prior to
each extraction with nonpolar solvent, instead of adding all that one is going to use at one time? We
suspect that this is just an artifact of poor phrasing on the part of the tek's author.

6) The tek calls for using way too much naphtha for extractions, suggesting 100 ml per pull for 30 grams of
MHRB. A tenth of that would be sufficient.
7) In "Lab Notes" under step 6, the tek suggests that one should be saving the naphtha from the defatting
process, but discarding the DMT-laden naphtha from the later steps. Why would one want to save the
(practically non-existent) fats from MHRB but throw away the DMT?
8) "You will know when DMT is in the final product by the smell." This is an odd statement, since DMT is
supposed to be the final product, not merely be contained in it.
9) Outdated info: The tek suggests using Red Devil lye; however, the manufacturer of this brand
discontinued production in 2005.
10) The three sets of "Lab Notes" from QT's extraction record that the extractions took 24 days, 39 days,
and 61 days. Yikes! A quick and effective acid/base extraction can be completely finished in 24 hours (and
that includes time for freeze-precipitations); a big, leisurely (and frankly, unnecessarily long) acid/base
extraction (BLAB) is still done in a week. From a legal standpoint, it seems prudent to complete an
extraction as quickly as possible so that--if worse comes to worst--the extractor is only on the hook for
possession of a controlled substance and not for manufacture as well.
11) The tek is written for MHRB with lye as the base and naphtha as the non-polar solvent; yet it implies
that it would be just as effective for Phalaris grasses with chloroform as the solvent. Unfortunately, different
factors need to be taken into account for different plants and solvents. Getting clean DMT out
of Phalaris grasses, in particular, is a massive chore, requiring its own specialized tek.
Minor Gripes
1) Measuring pH with beets and cabbage? Seriously? That's pretty ghetto. Litmus papers and pH monitors
are fairly cheap if one cared to measure the pH. And with MHRB, it's not necessary; a dash of acid is fine
for the initial extraction, and MHRB provides its own handy color-changing reaction when enough base has
been added.
2) Multiple times, the tek refers to "naptha" instead of naphtha.

"It lasted for a million years and for a split-second. But it's over and now it's your turn." -Timothy Leary

Name:

N,N-Dimethyltryptamine

Chemical
Name:

N,N-Dimethyl-1H-indole-3ethanamine

Alternative
Chemical
Names:

3-[2(dimethylamino)ethyle]indole,
DMT

Chemical
Formula:

C12H 16N2

Molecular
Weight:

188.27

Melting Point: 44.6-44.8 (crystals)


Boiling Point:

60-80 (crystals)

Dosages:

60-100 mg (smoking)
350 mg (orally)

Controlled substance (hallucinogen) U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21 Part 1308.11 (1985).

In modern times there has been a reduction of ritual. The ceremonies, that previously served to cast out an
individual from modern associations and throw him into a field of epiphanies, have become merely form,
betraying the inner forces that must somehow manifest. Shamen know of these inner forces. They understand
the inevitable overwhelming psychological experience that everyone will face if they are to complete their inward
path to open the unconscious and fall in. The psychological crisis is the fulcrum of any metaphysical realization
the individual may have about himself or his world. Without these intense experiences, without the rituals that
convey the message of the journey, and without shamen to show the way, many are lost in the world searching
constantly farther for what is contained only within. To chemically force such spiritual breakthrough may be
interpreted by some as a way to circumvent the trials that are necessary to test each soul willing to see the truth
of their life. But in contemporary society where is the individual to seek these tests of the self or to be struck
silent in awe of their own natural beauty or that of the universe? The shamen offered these opportunities to the
individuals of their society for generations, helping people maintain a healthy psychology between the known
world and the mystical. I now offer this ability to you in one of many forms, DMT.
DMT is perhaps the most powerful hallucinogen known to man. It is related to LSD and psilocybin. There are no
[commonly used - Erowid] drug tests that would show DMT usage. None of the basic NIDA-5 drug tests [Erowid
Note: Now called the "SAMHSA-5"] or any extended drug test will show a result for DMT. DMT is naturally
formed in the body and has been found in abnormal levels in the body fluids of persons suffering from
schizophrenia. DMT is almost never sold through dealers, rarely synthesized, and seldom used. It is, however,
easily extracted from common plant materials and has been used in various forms for hundreds of years
(timeline). DMT is not a "social drug" however. Respect the drug and its incredible potential. This drug
is not for the inexperienced, nor is it recommended to those who are just looking for another "high." Few seek

the visions enabled through DMT, and even fewer return to them. Even avid psychedelic users have had
frightening experiences with DMT on their first encounter with the drug. Take care to research and find out if
DMT is for you. I stress that educating yourself about this drug (and about all drugs you intend to use) will make
you a more competent and prepared chemist, tripper, and guide.
This manual is presented as a quick bench guide for the complete novice on how to extract DMT. Although the
text and illustrations for the process were all created by myself, there are a few pictures which are not my own.
The origins of these pictures are credited in the bibliography. I would like to encourage others to add to this
manual their own written observations. When attempting to produce any of these products the reader is
encouraged to read through the steps several times to closely familiarize himself with the entire process. Please
take note that DMT is an illegal substance in the United States of America and is controlled under federal
regulations. The following is for educational purposes only.

How to Extract DMT from Natural Sources


(in Ten Easy Steps)

First a plant must be selected that contains the chemicals we wish to extract. None of these plants are illegal
and they can be found growing wild and free all over the world (much less can be said for some of our other
favorite plants.) Most of these plant materials can be ordered through the internet. A little research may reveal a
large quantity of some useful plant material growing near you. Alkaloid contents of each plant mary vary
according to the growing conditions. Specifics about these plants and how to grow them are beyond the scope
of this manual but the information can easily be found. Below is a chart of several plants that contain NN-DMT,
5-OH-DMT, and 5-MeO-DMT (DMT's close cousin.)

Alkaloids reported as percent of total dry plant source mass/weight:

Acacia bark
0.71% NN-DMT

Acacia maidenii bark


0.36% NN-DMT

Acacia simplicifolia bark


0.86% NN-DMT

Mimosa hostilis root (bark)


0.57% NN-DMT

Virola shoots & flowers


0.44% NN-DMT

Desmanthus illinoensis root (bark)

0.34% NN-DMT

Pilocarpus organensis
1.06%

5-MeODMT

Phalaris tuberosa
0.10% NN-DMT
0.022 5-MeODMT
%
0.005
5-OH-DMT
%

Phalaris arundinacea ('net gossip)


0.060
NN-DMT
%
??

5-MeODMT

Psychotria species (averaged, from


Jonathan Ott)

0.200
NN-DMT
%

N,N-DMT

DMT (N,N-dimethyltryptamine) is one of the most hallucinogenic compounds known.


DMT is not active orally (unless in the form of an ayahuasca brew), but must be
smoked in it's freebase form to experience its effects. (DMT can be taken orally when
mixed with a MAOIs, but this is not recommended for the first time user.) The body
quickly builds a tolerance for the drug. Your DMT dose must be taken within 60
seconds. Any more of the drug after this first minute will not enhance the experience.
It is recommended to give at least one hour before attempting another DMT trip.

5-MeODMT

Effects of 5-MeO-DMT are psychedelic without the visual distortions found in NNDMT. 5-MeO-DMT is taken at 1/4 the dose of NN-DMT and will overpower the NNDMT.

5-OH-DMT

(Bufotenine) can cause severe physical discomfort including circulatory distress,


nausea, psychological distress (panic and fear), severe skin flushing, and has the
possibility of being fatal.

MAOI

(Monoamine Oxidase Inhibitors) will intensify and prolong the effects of NN-DMT,
however this is never recommended. Foolish combinations of MAOIs and other
drugs can lead to serious health problems and even death. The tryptamines are
normally metabolized by an MAO in the body. MAO metabolizes serotonin,
norepinephrine, and dopamine. By inhibiting this, MAOIs increase levels of those
neurotransmitters. Tyramine will not be metabolized and will cause an increase in
tyramine levels in the blood.

Extraction Procedure
For our experiment we will be using Mimosa hostilis root-bark to provide a very
pure product of NN-DMT without the over powering influence of 5-MeO-DMT or
the negative side effects of 5-OH-DMT. For a solvent we will be using common
naphtha. Notes on adaptations for chemicals and other variations of this
process are described as well. The following is a list of materials:

It helps to test all non glass materials with solvents to make sure there aren't any adverse reactions.

1. Mimosa hostilis root-bark

(30g suggested starting amount $45/100g)

2. Muratic acid

(pool acid - $4/gallon)

3. pH papers

(litmus papers - $3/100 tests)

4. Lye

(Red Devil Brand - $5)

5. Naphtha

(Zippo lighter fluid - $5)

6. Coffee filters and cotton swabs/cloth

( - $2)

7. Funnel

( - $2)

8. 3 labeled glass jars with lids (thick canning jars work best, but
pickle jars will do)

(labeled Jar A , Jar B, and Jar C $3)

9. Evaporating dish

(glass baking pan - $10)

10. Glass pipette

(turkey baster - $4)

11. Goggles and gloves

( - $10)

12. Distilled water

( - $2)
Total = ~$100.00

STATEMENT OF HAZARDS: Methylene Chloride


Suspect cancer hazard. Risk of cancer depends on duration and level of contact. Harmful if swallowed.
Causes skin and eye irritation. Causes respiratory tract irritation. May affect blood cells. May affect the central
nervous system. May cause blindness. Avoid breathing vapor or mist. Handle with caution. Keep in mind
these risks whenever substituting DCM for any other solvent.
STATEMENT OF HAZARDS: Muratic Acid

STEP 1

Preparing Plant Material

Grind the plant material to a fine powder. The finer ground the
material the better your yields will be. The best technique to
pulverize and rupture the cell structure of any plant material is to
repeatedly freeze and thaw it over and over again. An example
of a plant requiring this treatment is Phalaris arundinacea, a
strong and limber grass. Mimosa hostilis root-bark is easily
pulverized to a fine powder in a blender, releasing a pink haze.

A.

First place the grass clippings in the


freezer over night.

Above photo credit to Jim DeKorne

B. Remove them and place the frozen


clippings into a blender. Try and
liquefy the clippings as much as
possible while they are frozen.
C. Repeat this process of freezing,
thawing, and blending with the plant
material several times for best
results.

Mimosa hostilis root-bark


2000 Erowid

STEP 2
Acidify Water to pH 2

Take two pickle jars (about 20 ounces each) and wash them in
the dishwasher to help sterilize and clean them. Label the
jars A andB. Fill Jar A 2/3 way full with distilled water (~15
ounces, or ~500 ml filtered preferable.) Pour 1/2 teaspoon
(~2ml) of acid into Jar A . Test the pH of the water in Jar A .
The pH of the water should read 2 If not, add more distilled
water to dilute (5% acidity). There are many sources of
acid: (Always add acid into water, not water into acid. Use distilled water to avoid any
adulterates.)

electronic pH meter in jar

A. Distilled white vinegar (5% acidity, ~2 cups,


or 500 ml for every 50g root- bark) or lemon
juice.
B. Muratic acid from pool shop (10 ml 30% HCl
to 1 liter water is recommended.)
C. Reagent grade hydrochloric and sulfuric acid
(over-poweringly potent without dilution.)

Add powdered root-bark to Jar B.

Lab Notes:
Proper method of testing pH with pH papers; Use a glass
stirring rod (or something that won't corrode with acid) to
stir the acidic solution. Dab the pH paper with the stirring
rod lightly. To save pH paper, you can cut only a small
section of strip for a single test. If a pH meter or pH papers
are unavailable there are certain organic sources that
produce antocyanines which change color with different pH
ranges. Red beats or red cabbage may be used to
produce a rough estimate of pH range. This is not always
recommended, but it works. To create the indicator
solution, blend or grind either red beats or red cabbage.
Strain off the juice from the pulp and filter out any
remaining plant material. If not enough pigment is found,
try extracting more with water from the mushy pulp. If
there is too much pigment, simply dilute solution with
water. Indicator solution produced has a short shelf life but
can be stored in a refrigerator for several weeks. Below is
a rough pH chart for reference: (litmus paper comes with its own pH
chart)

Figure 1

STEP 3
Convert Alkaloids to Salts

Using a pipette (or turkey baster) transfer enough acidified water


from Jar A into Jar B to cover the root-bark in the bottom of Jar
B (~8 ounces, or 250 ml acidified water into Jar B.) When the
acid reacts with the root-bark, it converts the alkaloids (elf-spice)
into salts. To help facilitate this process we can:

A. Periodically shake
the contents of the
jar. This helps more
root-bark come in
contact with the
acid.
B. The weaker the
acid, the longer it
should be heated
for. Do not allow
evaporation of the
liquid inside. Do
not boil. Maintain
temperature below
50 C or 122 F.
Since we are using
pickle jars, and not
pyrex, they can
shatter easily if
heated or cooled
too quickly. It is
recommended
using a double
boiler with hot (not
boiling) water to
warm the solution.
To cool, simply turn
off the heat source
and allow the
solution to slowly
return to room
temperature.

1. When using
muratic acid,
heat the jar for

Figure 2

15-30 minutes.
When using
weaker acids,
2. simmer the
contents
overnight.
Allow the contents of the jar 24 hours to react the first time.
The alkaloids (tryptamines) are converted into salts and become
water soluble. Our elf-spice is now contained in the aqueous
solution.

STEP 4
Filtration

Plug the bottom of the funnel with cotton balls or cotton cloth to
create a cotton-filter. Pour the contents of Jar B through the funnel
and into Jar C. Squeeze the root-bark contents inside the filter to
press out the remaining juices. Save the root-bark that has been
caught by the filter and place it back into Jar B.

Lab Notes:
Whether
filtering material
through a
cotton-filter or a
coffee filter it
helps if the
thinner parts of
the solution are
filtered first,
followed by the
mushy and
more bulky
components
(which may clog
the pores of
your filters as
you strain.) The
better your
filtration, the
more rapid and
efficient your
emulsions, also
resulting in a

Figure 3

cleaner
product. Cotton
must be
specifically
used. Other
fibers have the
potential to
react with our
solvents. A tea
strainer (wire
strain) can be a
simple way to
separate bulk
ruffage.
Another way to
improve this
method is to
use a vacuum
filter. There are
several
varieties, the
most affordable
being a tapwater aspirator
'pump' that
attaches to a
household
faucet and
connects to
filter.
See Wikipedia:
Aspirator.
These cost
about $30.00
(in 2001) and
are very quick,
useful and
effective.

STEP 5
Collect 3 Extractions

Repeat the process outlined in STEPS 2, 3, and 4,


two more times. The initial extraction is most important. For
best results, allow the contents of the jar more time to react during
the remaining two extractions. Shake Jar B, 4 times a day, for 1
week before filtering each time through a cotton-filter. Collect the
acidic contents in Jar C each time. After these initial 3 cottonfiltration cycles, clean Jar A and Jar B, and dispose of remaining
root-bark.
After all 3 extraction phases, filter the contents of Jar C again, this
time using a paper coffee-filter instead of a cotton filter.

Place several
paper-filters
A. (coffee filters) in
the bottom of
the funnel.
Strain contents
of Jar
B. C through the
paper-filters and
into Jar B.
C.

When finished,
clean Jar C.

Repeat this process as necessary to remove as


many of the particulates from our solution as
possible.

Lab Notes:
Figure 4

The majority of the alkaloids we are searching for will


convert to salts in the first extraction phase. The second
and third extraction phases take place over a longer period
of time. This will ensure that we will be able to extract as
many alkaloids as possible from our material. The third
phase can be reduced to 1-2 days but will not produce the
best yields. Remember, these measurements are all crude
estimates.

STEP 6
Defatting
Next we defat the solution. This is part of standard lab procedure
whenever extracting alkaloids of this sort. This process removes
the oils, fats, and other unwanted substances from our aqueous
solution and also helps with yields. All DMT salts are insoluble in
non-polar solvents -- with the exception of DMT acetate -- which is
soluble in chlorinated non-polar solvents such as chloroform and
DCM. Thus if you are using white vinegar (acetic acid) as your acid,
you will need to use naptha or ether to defat as chloroform or DCM
would extract the DMT acetate along with the oils and fats,
defeating the purpose of this step.When using mimosa hostilis rootbark you may find this step unnecessary, however, any plant
material foliage containing chlorophyl it is strongly recommended.
To do this we add an organic (non-polar) solvent to the acidic
solution. Before using any solvents test a significant amount (~500
ml) of the solvent by evaporating it in a dish. This will verify that
there are no residues or orders left when evaporation is complete
(commonly found in many over-the-counter solvents.) Later in the
procedure (STEP 10) you will be evaporating this solvent to leave a
smokable form of DMT. Anything your solvent contributes, you may
be smoking in the final product. Below are listed several more
common organic non-polar solvents.

A. Naphtha:
Coleman fuel, VM&P naphtha, Zippo, or lighter fluid. Evaporate
a small amount in a dish and inspect the residue if you are
unsure of it's contaminants. If used for the extraction phase
instead of the defatting phase, warm naphtha will
extractalkaloids much better than cool naphtha. Naphtha is
considered more selective for catching these alkaloids than
DCM. Naphtha rises to the top of the jar.

Figure 5

B. Methylene Chloride:
Also known as DCM or dichloromethane. Often used as an
adhesive solvent for acrylics. Pure DCM can be found in craft
stores. DCM must be distilled first from all non-flammable paint
strippers beforehand (they contain a paste that holds several
unwanted substances.) The paint stripper may also contain
methanol (most marine grade paint strippers are 80-90%
DCM.) Methanol is also an organic solvent. DCM distills at 41
C or 106 F. Pure DCM is best. May cause cancer and
blindness. Take necessary precautions. Methylene chloride
sinks to the bottom of the jar .
C. Ether:
Naphtha

Contained in engine-starting fluid purchased at automotive


stores. To remove liquid ether from an engine-starting aerosol
can, spray the contents of the can down a 12 inch (~30cm)
length of 3/4 inch PVC pipe. The ether will condense on the
sides of the pipe and fall into the jar, while the inert propellant
will be released into the air. Ether is extremelyvolatile. Ether
floats to the top of the jar.
D. Chloroform:
Chloroform (CH2C12) can be purchased over the internet from
arts and crafts warehouses. It has a tendency to be harsh on
organics and has a boiling range of 35-65C (95-149
F). Chloroform sinks to the bottom of the jar.

It is important to remember what type of organic solvent you use.


For our defatting process we will use naphtha.

Defatting process

Add to Jar B ~50-100 ml (~2-3.5 ounces) naphtha. (Only 10-15%


the volume of our acidic solution is enough naphtha for this step.
Visualize what 10% of the total of the solution is and add that
amount of naphtha into the jar.) Cap the lid on Jar B and shake the
contents vigorously for 20 minutes. Set Jar B aside and allow for
emulsion (foam, bubbles, solutions, particles, etc.) to separate into
two distinct layers (much like oil and water will separate.) This may
take ~24 hours (48 in some cases.) The oils and fats will migrate
into the non-polar solvent layer leaving our alkaloids in the
aqueous solution. Since we are using naphtha, the solvent layer
will rise to the top ofJar B. Using a pipette (or turkey baster)
remove the solvent layer and discard.

Repeat defatting process 2 times.

Lab Notes:
A separatory funnel is very handy for dividing and eliminating
layers of solutions. This device consists of a single chamber
with a tapered bottom. On the bottom is a closed faucet.
The container is filled with the two solutions and they are
mixed. After mixing, the apparatus is set aside until both
fluids separate into two distinct layers. The lower fraction of
the fluids can be drained via the bottom faucet and into a
container for preservation (in this extraction when using
naptha during the defatting process) or to discard (in this
extraction when using naptha during the basification
process). A quick separatory funnel can be made by filling a
Ziplock plastic baggie with your mixtures, and hanging it

Seperatory Funnel in Jar

from one corner. When the layers have separated, the


bottom corner of the bag is pinched and then cut for
drainage. It is suggested to test the baggie to make sure
your solvents will not melt it.

STEP 7
Prepare to Basify
In this step we will be preparing the solution for the alkaloids migration using a common organic non-polar
solvent. For our solvent we will use warm naphtha (other solvents are identified inSTEP 6.)
Add to Jar B 100 ml (~3 ounces) warm naphtha. Shake the jar for 5 minutes.

STEP 8
Basify to pH 9

Now we must basify our solution. By doing this we will "unhook"


the salt and transform the alkaloid into its "free base" form.
Thealkaloids will no longer be a salt, nor will they be soluble in
water. This allows us to extract them with the organic solvent
added in STEP 7. Ammonium hydroxide is normally used, but for
our experiment we will be using NaOH found in household lye
crystals (Red Devil drain cleaner) and purchased at hardware
stores. Lye is very caustic and can react violently. Take the
proper precautions when using lye.
A good mixture for basifying is 5g (~0.2 ounces) lye mixed with
95g (~3 ounces) distilled water. The reason we dilute the base is
to prevent localized pH spikes which will destroy the alkaloids in
the area that we are adding the concentrated base. Create a
basic mixture as follows:

A. Fill Jar A 95ml (~3 ounces) full with water.


B.

Slowly add 5g (~1 teaspoon) of lye to water. Shake and mix


contents thoroughly.

C. Test to make sure pH is ~12.

Now using a pipette transfer small amounts of solution in Jar


A into Jar B.

A.

Stir and check the pH of contents in Jar B after each transfer


of lye solution until the solution in Jar B reaches a pH of ~9-11.

Shake the jar but be careful of pressure that will build up


inside the jar. Release the lid and vent often! The solution
will change a gray color as the alkaloids are turned from acid
B.
salts to free base. It may resemble a thick gel. Then the
solution will turn black and slippery as you add more base.
The jar will heat up during this process.

Approximate Basification Color

Figure 6

You have now formed the free base alkaloids that are soluble in
non-polar solvents. According to the Merck Index the pKa (natural
pH) of DMT is 8.68 (which would make this the ideal pH to extract
at.) In many experiments the average pH of the final basified
solution inSTEP 8 was ~10, which gave satisfactory results
everytime.

STEP 9
Emulsions
As these alkaloids dissolve in non-polar solvent added in STEP
7 , an emulsion will form. The strength of emulsion formed is
directly proportional to the strength of stirring. Heavy, rapid stirring
produces a thick emulsion that takes up to 4 days to settle out.
Light, slow stirring over a longer period of time produces and
emulsion that separates quickly without affecting the yield. Let the
jar sit overnight until the emulsion has separated into two distinct
layers. If emulsion has not cleared in 48 hours, try the following:

A. Sometimes adding a lot of salt and


gentle stirring will make the polar layer
more polar and help with emulsions.
B. Add more organic solvent.
C. Filter solutions again through a cotton
filter several times. A paper filter will
not work.
D. Test and increase the pH.

Thick emulsion

E. In most cases the solvent layer will


have slight tint or may sometimes
appear completely clear. If you want an
early test of your extraction simply
evaporate a small amount in a glass
dish. The residue left should smell a bit
synthetic (a smell like plastic.) This
smell is a trait of your tryptamine.

The naphtha will create a thick orange/pink emulsion with small


bubbles that sometimes takes over 48 hours to separate. Always
wait a few days before trying other methods to break down the

Figure 7

emulsion. Keeping the naphtha warm will increase the amount


of alkaloids it carries with it during each extraction. To help keep
the jar warm, place it in a pot surrounded by warm water. Naphtha
floats. If DCM is used for our extraction solvent in STEP 7, we will
have a faster resolving emulsion than naphtha (less than an hour
in some cases.) The solvent may turn a slightly darker color,
usually only a tint of reddish-brown or yellow. DCM sinks. Allow a
minimum of 24 hours for the contents of the jar to react
completely. If using methanol allow a minimum of 4 days warmed
to room-temperature for reactions to complete.
Using a pipette remove the corresponding solvent layer from Jar
B and save it in Jar A.

STEP 10
Final Alkaloid Extraction and Evaporation
Repeat STEP 7 and STEP 9 (in that order) 2 times.
Our elf-spice falls from the basified aqueous solution and into our
solvent.
The combined solvent fractions from our solvent extractions should
now be in Jar A. Pour contents of Jar A into a glass baking dish.
Allow for the solvent to evaporate. Evaporation may take up to
one week (depending on your solvent.) During this time keep dish
with solvent away from heat or open flame.

2000 Erowid

The remaining substance may resemble anything from a sticky


orangish goo to white or pale-orange crystals, depending on how
well you followed the procedure. Scrape up this substance from
the baking pan with a razor. About 25 mg is a good starting
amount (try about the size of a pea.) Assuming best yields you
could get 5-6 doses (275 mg) from 30g mimosa hostilis root-bark.
You will know when DMT is in the final product by the smell. DMT
has a distinct synthetic smell, almost like some manufactured
plastics.
2000 Erowid

"Don't worry about weighing it. Smoke it 'til your high, then save the
rest for next time. Remember the flame should never touch the dmt,
just the glass that's holding the dmt. Just heat up the "bulb" and gets
to toking. Slow & steady, deep inhalation, hold the smoke 'til you
burst. If nothing after 1st hit, huge toke again, etc. The 3rd toke will
usually be the one."

Lab Notes:
After DCM has evaporated your product may contain trace
amounts of hydroxide. Some find hydroxide to be
unpleasant in the final product. To help reduce this try
washing the DMT crystals in water, and letting the water
evaporate. Water can be added to the solvent evaporating
dish to help carry off hydroxide.
2000 Erowid
Photos of DMT crystals taken from The Vaults of Erowid

Lab Notes from Previous DMT Extractions


LAB #1

Materials
1. 25g mimosa hostilis root-bark
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Distilled Water
6. Coffee Filter and Cotton T-Shirt
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish and Turkey Baster
10. Cooking Pot
11. Lighter Fluid

Day 1:

The root-bark is brittle. To powderize it one had to simply place the sticks of dried bark into the
blender. They were immediately ground to a fine powder without any trouble, giving off a pink
haze when the cover of the blender was released. The powder was stored in a tupperware

container and placed in the back of a freezer.


Day 2:

Muratic acid is powerful. Thick gloves were worn along with eye protection. Using a stainless
steel teaspoon, about 1-5ml (1 teaspoon) of muratic acid was poured into a pickle jar that
contained roughly 3/4 filtered water (15 ounces or about 500 ml.) The pickle jar was
previously washed twice in a dishwasher in an attempt to ensure sterility. Under the lid of the
pickle jar the manufacturer had painted on a thin ring of some type of latex or rubber to help
seal the jar. The mixture of water and acid do not seem to affect the ring (it doesn't dissolve or
melt the latex in any way) so the jar and its lid were used.
The jar was shook to mix the acid and water. Immediately afterwards the pH of the water was
tested. The pH was 1 using pH papers to measure. (Compare pH within 30 seconds with
litmus.)
Added the 25g root-bark to the bottom of jar B. Then the baster was used to pour enough
acidified water to just cover the root-bark. Then jar B was capped and shook vigorously for 10
minutes. While shaking the jar it began to foam up with pink foam. Then the jar rest for a
couple hours. The contents of the jar broke into 3 layers. The top was pink foam. The middle
was a very very dark red (burgundy) color. Light didn't seem to pass through it very well at all.
The bottom layer was a lighter red sediment.

Day 3:

The dark red color of the top layer of liquid has now turned almost black it seems. No light
passes through it.

Day 4:

It was decided to heat the solution for several hours in an attempt to speed up the process.
The jar and it's contents were propped up on a porcelain stand inside a cooking pot. To this
pot was added enough water to surround the pickle jar. The lid to the pickle jar was made
finger tight so that the contents could not evaporate but still allow pressure to escape. For
roughly 3 hours the mixture sat in very warm water (not boiling.) Occasionally one would lift
the jar, and shake the contents before placing it back on the stand. Afterwards the heat
source was turned off and the water and the pickle jar contents cooled to room temperature.

Day 5:

A funnel was placed in the empty jar A. Inside the funnel was placed a cotton T-shirt filter. In
jar B the root-bark and the solution had formed two layers. This made it easier to sift the
smaller particles through the filter before the larger particles clogged the pores of the filter.
After the filter was full of sediment I took the edges of the filter and twisted to squeeze any
remaining liquid into the second jar. The process was repeated until the jar B was empty.
Then jar C was filled with roughly 2/3 filtered water, and was added roughly 5ml of muratic
acid. The cotton filters were opened again, and the sediments they held were poured back
into the jar B.
Both jars were capped tightly and checked for leaks again. Needless to say anytime one is
working with these chemicals one should wear thick gloves and the proper eye and body
protection.
Acidified water from jar C was siphoned with a turkey baster into jar B until the water covered
the sediments. The contents of the jar were again left to sit in warm water, this time about 30
minutes.

Day 6:

Strained aqueous solution and collected. Added acidic water to remaining plant material.
Simmered for 30 minutes.

Day 9:

Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown away. Solution was strained 3
times through coffee filters.

Naphtha (Lighter Fuel) was added. About 100 ml. The jar was shaken vigorously for ~10
minutes, resulting in a thick bubbly solution. This was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24
hours the top layer resembles water with a few drops of milk added. There is also a layer of
translucent pink scum. This this is the nasty stuff we want to get rid of.
To remove the naphtha layer (top layer) it was agreed that it would be best to siphon the
bottom layer out of the jar and save it, instead, then clean out the jar containing the remaining
nasty naphtha stuff. Using a plastic turkey baster we slowly squeezed the bulb as it passed
through the layers into the jar. This forced small bubbles to pour from the nozzle, and
prevented any naphtha from entering the baster before we could suck up the bottom layer.
After removing the naphtha, the remaining contents were again filtered once through a paper
coffee filter.
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
Day 10:

A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an empty jar.. About 100 ml water
for 1 teaspoon (5ml?) lye crystals. The jar was shaken, and stirred and made sure all the lye
crystals had dissolved. This was added slowly to the jar containing our main solution.
After 4 teaspoons of base solution, the mixture changed from a burgundy red to a very grayish
blue color. The pH was tested and found to be 7.
After 8 teaspoons of base solution the mixture has turned a darker gray color. The pH tested
was ~10.
After 10 teaspoons of base solution the mixture changed from gray to very inky black. There
is a lot of foam. The pH tested was found to be ~11-12.
A total of 10 teaspoons were added to this mixture before the pH was ~11. The jar was
shaken for several minutes with the cap tightly sealed. Then the jar was placed in a pot of
warm water for 15 minutes while slowly stirred. Then the jar was allowed to rest for 3 hours
inside the warm water.

Day 11:
Day 12:

Day 13:
Day 14:

Solution has not separated into two layers. The naphtha layer on top still resembles a thick
oily foam.
Solution has not separated into two layers. Markings were made on the side of the jar to see if
any progress had been made. Nothing changed in the jar within the last 48 hours. More
solvent was added.
No change in solutions. About 1 teaspoon of salt was added to the mixture and stirred gently
for 30 minutes.
No change in solutions. The pH was taken of the aqueous solution. Because of the dark color
of the material being tested it's hard to get an accurate measurement. A small sample was
taken and lightly diluted with water. The pH was about 9 or 10. Another mixture of lye and
water was made in a separate jar. About 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of base solution was added to
the mixture in jar B. The pH was tested again and read about 11 or 12. There seemed to be
an immediate change in the emulsion. A clear layer appeared on top of the jar, followed by the
familiar thick orange bubbles, and then finally the aqueous solution on the bottom. The
container was steeped in warm water for 1 hour.
After 1 hour the contents were strained 3 times through a cotton-filter and the emulsions were

allowed to separate. There was a dramatic improvement after filtration. The top layer of
naphtha was removed and saved. Another 100 ml naphtha was added and the jar was heated
again for perhaps another hour. The best technique to mixing the two solutions does not seem
to be shaking or stirring. Instead, very slowly tip the jar end over end repeatedly for several
minutes. This produces an emulsion that settles in about 2-3 hours time.
Day 15:

The contents of the jar were heated and mixed slowly for a period of 2 hours. Afterwards the
top layer was saved and another 100 ml naphtha was added. Again the jar was heated and
stirred for a few hours. The solvent layer was removed and placed with the rest of the
previous solvent fractions.

Day 16:

The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking dish and set aside for
evaporation.

Day 17-20: 3 day evaporation process. Bottom of dish there appears small yellow/orange crystal
formations, circular in pattern, about 2-3mm across.
Day 21:

Some of the outer edges of the crystals have dried a bit. The larger crystals still seem wet.

Day 22:

The entire dish was scraped with a razor. The crystals bunched together and dissolved into a
caramel gum like substance. This substance was smeared across a 3X5 note card.

Day 23:

The brownish goo has dried up and reveals a more crystalline structure. This was scrapped
off using an exacto knife.

Day 24:

Elf-spice hyperspace. The experiment was a success.

LAB #2

Materials
1. 25g Phalaris arundinacea (rather dry, note this grass contains 5-MeO alkaloids as well)
2. Pool acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Red Devil Lye
5. Lighter Fluid
6. Cotton Balls
7. Plastic Funnel
8. Pickle Jars
9. Baking dish, turkey baster, cooking pot

Day 1:

Phalaris grass is very hard to pulverize. The grass was placed in a freezer and then into a
blender. To help mash the grass down towards the blades of the blender, a small amount of
water was added. Repeatedly the lid to the blender was lifted and the grass had to be pushed
back down. It took over an hour to pulverize the grass sufficiently. The mixture of water and
clippings was placed into a baggie. The baggie was frozen and thawed several times over a
period of 24 hours.

Day 3:

5ml muratic acid added to a pickle jar that contained roughly 500 ml water. Water and acid
were mixed well. 25g of grass was placed in the bottom of jar B and the acidified water
covered this amount of grass. Shook the jar and contents.

Day 4-11:

Jar contents are shaken daily.

Day 12:

A funnel was placed in jar A. Inside the funnel was placed a cotton ball. The material from jar
B was filtered through the funnel into jar A. The remaining material in the filter was placed
back into jar B and covered again with acidified water. Jar B contents are shaken daily for 7
days.

Day 19:

Collection of aqueous solution same as Day 12.

Day 26:

Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown away. Solution was strained 3
times through coffee filters.
100 ml Naphtha added. The jar was shaken 10 minutes. This was allowed to rest for 24
hours. After 24 hours the nasty stuff was skimmed off the top along with the naphtha solvent.
This was done twice.
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.

Day 28:

A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an empty jar. This was added
slowly to the jar containing our main solution. The pH was now ~11. The jar was slowly stirred
for several hours while heated.

Day 29-31: After the emulsion had cleared the top layer of naphtha was collected and more naphtha
added to the original mixture. This was done 3 times.
Day 39:

The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking dish and set aside for
evaporation. After 4 days the dish was scraped clean and the crystals put to use. Success!

LAB #3

Materials
1. 45g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark
2. Muriatic Acid
3. Litmus Papers
4. Lye

5. Ronsonal Lighter Fluid


6. Cotton Filter
7. Separatory Funnel
8. Pyrex Dish and Stove

Day 1:

Ingrediants were cut with scissors and places in coffee grinder for pulverizing. The contents
were then placed in pyrex dish with cover. Dish was placed on gas stove and allowed to boil.
After boil was achieved the stove was turned off. Periodically the stove was turned on to apply
heat to the dish. After 20 minutes the biomass was strained. Placed biomass back into the dish
and repeated twice..

Day 2:

Added Ronsonal lighter fluid about equal to existing volume, covered jar and shook. Result was
massive emulsion. Let sit for two months.. A muddly silt formed on the bottom of the jar. I'm
guessing it's from not filtering finely enough.
Separated bottom liquid layer using 1 L sep funnel into a clean jar, and discarded top layer.

Day 60:

(Thought I'd try de-fatting once. It doesn't seem worth it with MHRB. Probably won't do it in the
future.)

Day 61:

I previously prepared a mixture of Red Devil Lye and distilled water. It takes a while to fully
dissolve the pellets. Again added about the same amount of naptha as I had liquid, and then
added basic solution while stirring to a pH of 11.6. While shaking, I noticed it forming a vacuum,
and periodically vented. I'm not sure of the mechanism there. I let it settle, then separated, saving
the bottom layer for 2nd and third extractions, and top layer for drying. Drying Tip: get a 4 inch
fan, and lay it on top of the pyrex dish, and it will dry overnight

BIBLIOGRAPHY
The Vaults of Erowid: www.erowid.org
Perhaps the best collection of information on the internet about chemicals and plants for anyone new to drugs.
Within this document I have reprinted several smaller pictures found from their website. Although I asked
permission, I was never sent a response, but here I credit their wonderful database and used the pictures
anyway.
Color photo of a large ultrapure DMT crystal, grown in 1996. The crystal is approximately 1 inch across.
Anonymous Photographer. Used by Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal1.jpg
Color photo of a pile of DMT crystals extracted with Naptha.

Photo by Bucwheat. 2000 Erowid.


/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt_crystal2.jpg
Color photo of a small vial full of N,N-DMT crystals.
Anonymous Photographer. 2000 Erowid.
/chemicals/show_image.php?i=dmt/dmt2.jpg
Color photo of a collection of rootbark pieces layed out on a plate.
Photo by Murple. 2000 Erowid.
/plants/show_image.php?i=mimosa/mimosa_hostilis6.jpg
Psychedelic Shamanism The Cultivation, Preparation and Shamanic Use of Psychotropic Plants.
DeKorne, Jim. (1994)
Publisher : Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN : 1-55950-110-3
Color photo of grass growing outdoors. (Pictured as found on Erowid.)
/plants/show_image.php?i=phalaris/images/archive/phalaris_arundinacea1.jpg
Rhodium - an informative element: Rhodium
A collection of highly technical information. I humble myself before the knowlege they posess.
rhodium/chemistry/equipment/ph-indicator.html
Ayahuasca Analogues: Pangaen Entheogens.
Ott, Jonathan. (1994).
Kennewick, WA: Natural Products.
ISBN: 0-9614234-5-5
Tryptamines I Have Known And Loved: The Chemistry Continues.
By Alexander and Ann Shulgin.

(Part 2)

Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences.


Vol. 56, page 1526.

http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml

DMT for the Masses


A Mimosa tenuiflora (= M. hostilis) Root-Bark Extraction Tek
by Noman
v1.4 - Jun 26, 2012
Revised version of an article originally published in The Entheogen Review

Citation: Noman. "DMT for the Masses (v 1.4)". Erowid.org. Jun 26, 2012. Online edition:
Erowid.org/plants/nutmeg/nutmeg_article#.shtml. Original published in The Entheogen Review. Autumn 2006;15(3):91-92.

NOTE: Before performing any extraction procedure, it is always a good idea to read the entire description
of the process from start to finish. Please see the Addendum at the end of this tek for additional tips,

refinements, and clarifications regarding to the processes described. Also see the related article Keep
that Mimosa Mud? by J. Cocktoasten.

Disclaimer
Performing this procedure is illegal in most countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do
not perform it myself where illegal.
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure as much as possible, so that the average
person can complete it in a kitchen in one evening. While I think that I have accomplished this goal,
experimentalists must still do their homework. It is a good idea to read a few different teks before deciding
which one to use, and to research safe handling procedures for the chemicals and equipment required. I
don't provide instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that those
interested in performing kitchen chemistry will educate themselves on such basic procedures.

Materials

Mimosa tenuiflora (= M. hostilis) root-bark

A coffee grinder or heavy-duty blender (one that will crush ice)

A wide-mouthed glass mixing jar with a tight-fitting lid (a quart jar can do 50 grams of root-bark, a
gallon pickle jar can do 200 grams)

Water

Lye (granulated sodium hydroxide)

A bottle of vinegar (for neutralizing any lye spills)

A dust mask, safety goggles, and rubber gloves

Naptha (VM&P, not lighter fluid)

Four wide-mouthed 8-ounce glass collection jars with lids (canning or jelly jars work well)

A separatory funnel or gear to siphon or decant

Coffee filters

A rubber spatula

A freezer set to a very cold temperature (it should freeze ice cream rock-hard)

Non-sudsy ammonia (10% solution, e.g. "janitor strength", is optimal, but 5% "household strength"
will do as well)

An eyedropper

Process
1) Snap the Mimosa tenuiflora root-bark into small pieces and run it through the coffee grinder or blender at
high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the root-bark small enough to grind properly. Pulverize it
until it is just fiber and pink/purple dust--it needs to be completely broken down. The dust produced is very
fine and astringent to one's respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a dust mask.

After grinding, wait for a bit before opening the top of the coffee grinder or blender, so that the dust has
some time to settle.
2) Combine the lye and the water in the mixing jar. Use 15 ml water and 1 gram of lye for every gram of
powdered root-bark that will later be added into the mixing jar. [NOTE: See Addendum, point #1 below.] For
example: 50 grams of root-bark powder would require 750 ml water and 50 grams of lye. One level
tablespoon of lye weighs about 15 grams. [NOTE: Lye is dangerous. Blind-you-forever dangerous. Have a
bottle of vinegar handy as an acid to neutralize the caustically basic lye when cleaning up any spills that
occur, and wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with lye. Add the lye to the water, while
slowly and constantly stirring until it has completely dissolved. Always add the lye to the water, and not the
other way around. Adding water to lye may cause a volcano-like reaction. Erowid Note: Dissolving lye in
water must be done slowly because it causes an exothermic (heat-releasing) reaction and this heat can
cause dangerous splashing, the container to be too hot to touch, and can even crack non-borosilicate
glassware, all of which could lead to dangerous situations.]
3) Add the powdered root-bark into the lye/water solution in your mixing jar. Cap and shake the jar, then let
it sit for about an hour.
4) Now add to the mixing jar 1 ml of naphtha for each 15 ml of water used to create the lye solution.
[NOTE: See Addendum, point #2 below.] Turn the jar end-over-end. Do not shake or splash (or there will be
a tendency for the solution to form an unwanted emulsion); simply roll the naphtha around in the root-barkpowder-solution to mix it. Gently do this for one minute, and then let the jar stand until the naphtha has
mostly separated and is floating on top. Then repeat this agitation process three more times.
5) After the final agitation, allow enough time to pass for the naphtha to again float on top, and then
separate the two layers. The naphtha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, everything else stays in
the mixing jar. A separatory funnel is the easiest means to accomplish separation of the two layers, but
various techniques of siphoning or decanting could also be employed. None of the dark (lower) solution
should be allowed into the collection jar--just the naphtha. [NOTE: If you save the dark (lower) basified
solution, this can be used to extract "jungle spice" from: see Entropymancer 2008. "'Jungle Spice': Mystery
Alkaloid(s) of Mimosa Root-bark", The Entheogen Review 16(3): 87-108.]
6) Repeat steps 4-5 above three more times, but do not add any new powdered root-bark. You will be
reprocessing the same original root-bark material, in order to thoroughly extract the DMT from it. With the
final (fourth jar) extraction, leave the powdered root-bark soaking in the naphtha for a day or two (agitating
it occasionally), to better extract any remaining DMT before separating off the naphtha. [NOTE: See
Addendum, point #3 below.] When you have finished, place all four collection jars into your freezer and go
to bed. You will have four "snow globes" waiting for you in the morning.
7) Pour the naphtha from each jar through a coffee filter, saving the naphtha. (The naphtha can be reused
for your next batch of extractions, or it can be evaporated off to produce a residue that can be further
refined--see "Recrystallization" below). [NOTE: It has been pointed out that using fresh naphtha for each
extraction results in significantly better quality material, with less DMT-oxide and oils in the final product and
a better freeze precipitation.] A lot of paste will stick to the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape this
paste from the jar's sides down into the filter as well. Spread out each filter to dry. There will still be some
residue in the jars; a bit of Salvia divinorum or Cannabis can be used to scrub them out, providing an
enhanced aspect to those herbs.
8) The paste must be allowed to dry thoroughly; chop and stir it a couple of times to make sure that this is
the case. Once it seems to be dry, crush up any lumps. [NOTE: Minimize the airflow above your product
while evaporating-off the solvent and drying the DMT. Having a fan blowing above the product (not
recommended) has been reported to transform white crystals into yellow goo; such airflow may convert
some of the DMT into DMT-oxide, which is a yellow, sticky goo (and apparently not as strong as DMT or

different in effect, depending on who you talk to).]


9) [NOTE: If you intend to recrystallize your material in order to further purify it, you can skip this step. Also,
see Addendum, point #4 below.] Combine all of the dried material into one coffee filter. Wash this material
by pouring freezer temperature non-sudsy ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. It is imperative that
the ammonia you use is of the non-sudsy variety. You can shake the bottle to tell; if it creates suds, get a
different kind. Rinsing won't take much ammonia, about 4 ounces for a 200-gram batch. Stir the powder
around while rinsing to make sure that all of it is thoroughly wetted. A good bit of the mass will wash away-perhaps 25-45%--but it's nothing you want to be smoking anyway. You should be left with about 0.5% of the
weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. When dried, it is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be
refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in some product loss, once
you've had a hit of DMT that left absolutely nothing behind in the pipe, you won't want to use anything else.

Recrystallization
For our current purposes, the idea behind recrystallization is that the chosen solvent holds more DMT when
hot than when cold, and that some impurities remain more easily within cold solvent. While naphtha will
work for recrystallization, a better solvent to use at this point is heptane. Heptane is available in Bestine, a
rubber cement remover available at art supply stores. [NOTE: We have been informed that not all types of
Bestine use heptane, so check to make sure that this is the sole ingredient.]
Place a glass container holding the DMT and a glass container filled with the recrystallization solvent
together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from
your solvent are extremely flammable, so only use a contained electric heating source. (Electric ranges with
coil style elements can ignite fumes, as can the heat coils in electric ovens. Gas ranges or any sort of open
flame, obviously, must be avoided.) The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Using an
eyedropper, add the hot solvent little-by-little while agitating the DMT until all of the material has dissolved.
Use 20-30 ml of solvent (or less) per gram of powder; you want to use as little solvent as possible. When all
of the material has gone into solution, the solvent will be a clear yellow.
Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool down to room temperature. Then remove the DMT
container and place it into your refrigerator. Later, move it into your freezer. This step-wise process allows
for gradual cooling and the precipitation of crystals. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity on
top of a pellet of slag, which still contains quite a bit of DMT (but also some lye, if you skipped the ammonia
wash). Do the coffee filter bit again to dry the material, and then separate the crystals from the slag. The
crystals can be further refined, through one or two more recrystallizations, into pure clear DMT. The slag
can also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The solvent can be reused or
evaporated down, with the residue scraped and cleaned. And don't forget to scrub those jars and utensils
with some of your favorite smoking herb.

Addendum
by Noman and Entropymancer
1) If pre-powdered bark is being used, 1.5 to 2 times of the water called for will be required. Pre-powdered
bark requires more water because commercial suppliers pulverize the fibrous bits that a home blender (or a
coffee bean grinder) leaves intact; this material turns to a sludge in the lye solution that won't release the
naphtha if it's added while the solution is still sludgy.
2) Regarding the freeze precipitation process: When the tek was written, commonly available Mimosa
tenuiflora (= M. hostilis) root-bark was of much higher quality than what has been available more recently.
Due to the lower-quality material, these days a partial evaporation is sometimes necessary to get the
solution concentrated enough to precipitate. Using a bit less naphtha allows the extractions to be
concentrated enough to freeze-precipitate more reliably. (It may end up taking one or two more pulls to get
all the DMT, but easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls.) By using around 0.4

ml of heated naphtha per gram of bark, every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was
with an acid/base extraction in a sep funnel, but it should likely work just as well with a straight-to-base
extraction.)
3) Using heat for the last pull will increase the yield. This was left out of the original tek for the sake of
simplicity, but it is probably worth mentioning. [NOTE: Again, naphtha is flammable. Naphtha-based
extractions can be warmed by partially submerging the closed extraction jar into a hot water bath.]
4) Get rid of the ammonia wash. For whatever reason, it seems to cause problems for at least half the
people that use it. Change it to a wash of the naphtha with a weak basic solution. [According to Vovin's Tek:
Dissolve a pinch of sodium carbonate in about 50 ml or distilled water, then add a small amount of this
solution (approximately one-twelfth by volume) to the naphtha, shake well, then allow the water to separate
from the naphtha and discard the water. Following this, wash the naphtha two more times using pure (nonbasified) distilled water (again using an amount of approximately one-twelfth by volume). Vovin cautions to
avoid leaving the water in the naphtha for too long, saying: "no sitting for hours letting it 'soak'; you need to
get it in and out."]

Notes
This is a revised version of a tek published under the same name in The Entheogen Review (see citation
above). An error in the printedER version of this article made it appear as though the root-bark should be
thrice run through a new lye/water mix and then extracted with naphtha. This is not the case. The *same*
lye/water/root-bark should be used in each of the three re-processesings; only new naphtha is added each
time. -- David Aardvark, The Entheogen Review
For some additional tips related to this extraction process, see "Keep that Mimosa Mud?" by J.
Cocktoasten.
For general information about various teks used, see the "DMT Extraction Overview" by Entropymancer.
An adapted spin-off version of this article, containing color photographs is available here.

http://www.lycaeum.org/nepenthes/Plants/Phalaris/phalaris.extract.html
Phalaris extract

DeKorne says he discovered that you could make a smokable extract by accident, after leaving
an extract intended for ayahuesque use out where the alcohol evaporated, leaving "a gummy tar"
which he "on a sudden whim" decided to smoke. "I took one inhalation of this essence and
found my mind immediately blasted into a cerebral hurricane of rapidly pulsing white light.
Fortunately, I already knew what a DMT flash is like, so I was not totally taken by surprise."
His idea of extraction is this:
Pulverize the grass clippings
Add water, "enough... to make a pourable soup"

Acidify to pH 5 or so
(Optional) Simmer the acidified soup in a slow cooker overnight, not
allowing the liquid to evaporate. ("It may take two or three such
operations to get all of the alkaloids into solution")
Strain the plant matter through cheesecloth, then through a paper
coffee filter
Add 10-15% of the mass of the solution in a "defatting solvent" such as
methylene chloride, ether, chloroform, or naptha. [However, see this
warning about naptha]
Shake vigorously
The crap will go into the solvent, leaving the good stuff in the water.
Separate the water from the solvent.
Add a base to the aqueous solution in small increments until the pH
gets to about 9 or 10. This converts the alkaloids into their free base.
Extract with 10% of the mass of the solution of an organic solvent four
times, at one 24-hour and then three weekly intervals. The solvent
layer will take on a darker tint, usually yellowish or reddish-brown. It
will take almost a month to extract all of the alkaloids, and the solution
should be shaken at least twice a day between extractions.
Evaporate the solvent off from the combined extract fractions. You now
have the alkaloids.
He was smoking 50mg of this goo at a shot.
As a footnote, he tried similar stuff with Arundo donax and got some really nasty reactions from
whatever other crud was in the plant. I'm gonna cross this one off of my list.

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=41585
i Ez4U ... much love btw
great experiment, I thought I would add something my friend has been doing!
Recently a friend has being doing a slightly modified version of lazymans tek and getting 12g - 13g extract from
500g of inner root bark!
yes this is medium dark yellow dmt, but when crystallized twice, she gets white crystals to about 60 - 65% of the
original weight. there is quite a bit of n-oxide and oils left after re-crystallizing, which she enhances some leaf
with.

All she does which is different to standard lazymans tek is the following ... Freeze the MHRB , blend it all up, then
sieve it then blend the fibrous particles so its almost all pure powder.
Then mix in at first 2 litres of water with 200g of lye and 100 g of salt, then blend the hell out of it with a hand
held blender, repeat this step thrice daily for 5 days, on day 3 she adds 50g more lye and about 30 g of salt, with
about 1 litre of water, by this time, 3 days sitting in a very basic solution, the basified mix has thickened up and is
quite viscous! I was surprised at how thik it gets!
On the 5th day add a further litre of water and blend again. Now here is the bit that we think makes the
difference, instead of using a limited amount of naphtha, she uses copious amounts, like 1.5 litres per pull! I know
its a heck of a lot of naphtha, but its not expensive in the scheme of things and damn does it pull some spice!, this
is done 5 times and in the end just over 2% of extract is recovered with about 60% - 65% of this being pure white
spice!
I know the bark in this batch is excellent, so this could be a deciding factor, she first tried to extract 100g and
yielded just under 2g of extract using standard lazymans tek but with excessive naphtha but not blending up the
bark, but just cutting up the bark into small chunks, and mashing instead of blending twice daily as per standard
lazymans tek.
This is the extract from about 700g of bark, without recrystallizing

I hope this helps!

Peace love and unity


All of your different treatment do deviate from your control ("Std STB) in a way that introduce something
potentially beneficial to the extraction; salt is thought to promote migration of dmt to the NP; heatbath prior to
basifying will promote extraction of dmt into the aqueous mixture; heatbath after basifyign or heating the NP
solvent again will promote migration of dmt into the NP solvent; freeze-thawing will promote cell lysis and release
of dmt from cells, and so on.