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Cabled Hood/Neck Warmer

v2

By Rose Brown

This hood curves around the back of the head in a smoothly


rounded shapeno pixie pointyet it has enough ease to avoid
flattening your hair. Wear it up on cold and windy days, outside of
your coat or tucked inside, or pull it down as a neck warmer.
No sewing seams, no blocking required and an easy-to-remember
cable stitch pattern make this a quick project.
Pattern includes two sizes:
Child: To fit head circumferences, 18.5 20.5 in. (47 - 52 cm)
Adult: To fit most adults, 21 - 24 in. (53 - 61 cm)
Ribbing and cables allow for a stretchy fabric that fits a wide
range of head sizes.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES
This relaxed-fitting hood is worked from front to back (from the face edge to the back of the head) after a
provisional cast on, in the shape of a wide rectangle with small extensions at each side of the front edge.
When the rectangle is folded in half and seamed up the back, the extensions curve under the chin. Decreases
near the back edge of the hood give it a rounded shape, and three-needle bind off joins the seam. The
provisionally cast on stitches around the face are retrieved to add a ribbed, fold-back cuff. Stitches are
picked up around the neck edge to add ribbing that flares over the shoulders. Finally, stitches are picked up
in front to add button and buttonhole bands.
Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

SIZES
Child: to fit head circumferences 18.5 to 20.5 inches (47 to 52 cm)
Adult: to fit most adult head circumferences, 21 to 24 inches (53 to 61 cm)
Variations for Adult size are shown in square brackets.

YARN
3 [4] skeins Cascade 220 Superwash Aran; 150 yds/137.5 m per 100 g skein; 100% Superwash Merino wool.
Samples shown in colors 849/Dark Aqua and 809/Really Red.
Hood requires approximately 390 [470] yds / 360 [430] m of Aran weight yarn.
Finished weights of Child and Adult samples shown, using Cascade 220 Superwash Aran: 255 [305] g

NEEDLES
One 24- or 32-inch (60 or 80 cm) circular needle in size US 8 (5.0 mm) or size needed to obtain stockinette gauge
One circular needle, any length, used only for three-needle bind off

GAUGE
19 stitches & 26 rows = 4 / 10cm in Stockinette stitch with gauge needle.
27 stitches & 26 rows = 4 / 10cm in CABLED STITCH PATTERN, unstretched, with gauge needle.

NOTIONS
Cable needle, blunt tapestry needle, 3 removable stitch markers, 2 stitch holders or double pointed needles to
temporarily hold 17 stitches, waste yarn and crochet hook for provisional cast on, row counter (optional).
Three 3/4 / 19 mm buttons.

SKILLS USED
Increase and decrease, cables, pick up and knit, provisional cast on, three-needle bind off.
Links are provided on last page for demonstrations of provisional cast on and three-needle bind off.

SCHEMATIC and FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (shown with cables relaxed)

Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

INSTRUCTIONS
LEFT UNDER-CHIN EXTENSION
Using gauge needle, cast on 17 sts.
Work the following 8 rows, as shown in chart:
Rows 1, 3, 5 & 7 (WS): P2, k1, p6, k6, p2.
Rows 2, 4 & 6 (RS): K2, p6, k6 p1, k2.
Row 8 (RS): K2, p6, C6B, p1, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-8 one time.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for finishing.
Place sts on a stitch holder or double pointed needle and set aside.

RIGHT UNDER-CHIN EXTENSION


Using gauge needle, cast on 17 sts.
Work the following 8 rows, as shown in chart:
Rows 1, 3, 5 & 7 (WS): P2, k6, p6, k1, p2.
Rows 2, 4 & 6 (RS): K2, p1, k6, p6, k2
Row 8 (RS): K2, p1, C6F, p6, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-8 one time.
Do not cut yarn because it will be used when continuing on to join the two extensions to the Main hood section.
Place sts on a stitch holder or double pointed needle and set aside.

MAIN HOOD SECTION


Using waste yarn and a crochet hook, provisionally cast on 120 [144] sts onto your circular gauge needle.
Assemble the two extensions at the ends of the circular needle as follows:
Hold the circular needle so that the last stitch of the provisional cast on is at the left end. This is to ensure that
you will be able to unravel the provisional sts from that end.
With the right side of the Right under-chin extension facing you (the one with the working yarn still attached),
slide these sts from the holder or double pointed needle onto the left end of the circular needle.
With the right side of the Left under-chin extension facing you, slide these sts from the holder or double
pointed needle onto the right end of the circular needle.
The assembled sections should look like the diagram below. Notice that the working yarn is still connected to the
Right under-chin extension. You will be connecting the two extensions to the 120 [144] sts in the middle when you
work the Setup row across all 154 [178] sts.

Setup Row (WS): Using the yarn still attached to the Right Under-Chin Extension, this row starts by working across
those 17 sts, then continues across the provisional cast on sts in the middle, and finally across the 17 sts of the Left
Under-Chin Extension, as follows: p2, k6, p6, knit across to last 14 sts, p6, k6, p2. Total 154 [178] sts.
Place a marker on the needle between the two center sts. There will be 77 [89] sts each side of marker. This marker
will help to indicate which way the cables are crossed in the Main hood section: before the marker one way, after the
marker the other direction.
Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

Next 8 rows:
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (RS): K2, p6, * k6, p6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, k2, slipping marker as you come to it.
Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 (WS): P2, k6, * p6, k6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, p2, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 7 (RS): K2, * p6, C6B; repeat from * until 3 sts before marker, p3, slip marker, p3;
* C6F, p6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, k2.
These 8 rows comprise the CABLED STITCH PATTERN.
Repeat the CABLED STITCH PATTERN 2 [ 3] times.
Next 6 rows: Work Rows 1 through 6 of CABLED STITCH PATTERN.
Crown Shaping Rows
The next 12 rows, which must start after Row 6 of the CABLED STITCH PATTERN, have decreases worked in the center
66 sts to achieve a rounded shape at the back of the hood. Place two more markers on the needle, each one 33 stitches
away from the center marker, to indicate the center 66 sts. Then remove the center marker. When working the crown
shaping rows, slip these 2 markers as you come to them. To make it easy to pay attention to these center sts, the table
below gives directions divided into the beginning, center and end of each row, followed by the number of center sts
remaining after the row.
Work the 12 crown shaping rows as follows:
CROWN SHAPING ROWS

Row
1(RS)

Beginning of Row
k2, p6; * C6B, p6,
repeat from * to
marker.

2 (WS)

p2, k6; * p6, k6,


repeat from * to
marker.

3(RS)

k2, p6; * k6, p6,


repeat from * to
marker.
p2, k6; * p6, k6,
repeat from * to
marker.

4(WS)

5(RS)

6 (WS)

7 (RS)

8 (WS)

k2, p6; * k6, p6,


repeat from * to
marker.
p2, k6; * p6, k6,
repeat from * to
marker.
k2, p6; * k6, p6,
repeat from * to
marker.
p2, k6; * p6, k6,
repeat from * to
marker.

Center Stitches
(C6-5B, p2tog, p4) 2x; C6-5B, p6, C6-5F;
(p4, p2tog, C6-5F) 2x
Note: To work C6-5B, slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and
hold in back of work, knit 3 from left needle, then from cable
needle knit 2 sts together, knit 1.
To work C6-5F, slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in
front of work, from left needle knit 2 sts together, knit 1, then
from cable needle knit 3.
(p5, k5) 2x; p5, k6, p5; (k5, p5) 2x

(k3, k2tog, p2tog, p3) 2x; k3, k2tog, p6, ssk, k3;
(p3, p2tog, ssk, k3) 2x
(p4, k4) 2x; p4, k6, p4; (k4, p4) 2x

(k2, k2tog, p2tog, p2) 3x; p2tog, ssk, k2;


(p2, p2tog, ssk, k2) 2x
(p3, k3) 2x; p3, k4, p3; (k3, p3) 2x

(k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1) 2x; k1, k2tog, p4, ssk, k1;
(p1, p2tog, ssk, k1) 2x
(p2, k2) 2x; p2, k4, p2; (k2, p2) 2x

Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

End of Row

Center Sts
Remaining

p6; * C6F, p6,


repeat from * to
last 2 sts, k2.

56

k6; * p6, k6, repeat


from * to last 2 sts,
p2.

56

p6; * k6, p6, repeat


from * to last 2 sts,
k2.
k6; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
p2.

46

p6; * k6, p6, repeat


from * to last 2 sts,
k2.
k6; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
p2.

34

p6; * k6, p6, repeat


from * to last 2 sts,
k2.
k6; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
p2.

46

34

24

24

9 (RS)

10(WS)

11(RS)

12(WS)

Dont overlook the


p2tog shown in bold
here.
k2; * p6, C6B,
repeat from * to 6
sts before marker,
p2, p2tog, p2.
p2; * k6, p6, repeat
from * to 5 sts
before marker, k5.
k2; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to 5 sts
before marker, p5.
p2; * k6, p6, repeat
from * to 5 sts
before marker, k5.
Remove marker.

(k2tog, p2tog) 2x; k2tog, s2pp, p1, k2tog;


(p2tog, k2tog) 2x
Note: To work s2pp, with yarn in front slip next 2 sts purlwise
to right needle; purl next st, then pass the two slipped sts over
st just purled.
(p1, k1) 3x; (k1, p1) 3x

(k2tog) 6x

s2pp, p1, slip the st just purled back onto the left needle; turn
the work around so that the RS is facing you (The purled stitch
is now on the right needle); pass the two sts next to that
purled st over it, one at a time, and off the right needle. Turn
the work around again so that the WS is facing you; with yarn
in back, slip that purled st back to the right needle.

Dont overlook the


p2tog shown in bold
here.
p2, p2tog, p2;
* C6F, p6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
k2.
k5; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
p2.
p5; * k6, p6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
k2.
Remove marker.
k5; * p6, k6, repeat
from * to last 2 sts,
p2.

12

12

Note: To work s2pp, with yarn in front slip next 2 sts purlwise
to right needle; purl next st, then pass the two slipped sts over
st just purled.

After Row 12 there will be a total of 88 [112] stitches. Place the first 44 [56] stitches on a second circular needle.
Fold the work in half with right sides together. Your gauge needle is now in front with the remaining 44 [56] stitches.
Using the left end of the front needle as the third needle, do a three-needle bind off. Cut yarn, leaving approximately
10-inch (25 cm) tail. Using a tapestry needle, bring the tail to the right side and thread it neatly through the semi-circle
of stitches that surround the end of the seam to pull them together and prevent a hole. Then bring the tail back to the
wrong side and fasten off to secure it.

RIBBING AROUND FACE


Retrieve the 120 [144] stitches from the provisional cast on onto a 24- or 32-inch (60 or 80 cm) circular needle. You
can retrieve the stitches onto your gauge needle or, if you have a thinner needle with finer points, you can use that for
easier retrieval.
Note: Whenever you retrieve live stitches from a provisional cast on, there will always be one fewer live stitch to
retrieve than the number of stitches that you cast on. To compensate when making this hood, before retrieving the first
live stitch, simply slide your retrieval needle through a loop of the stitch in the fabric immediately before it, thus
picking it up to create a stitch out of it. Then continue by retrieving all the live stitches. You can refer to the section on
ABBREVIATIONS AND TECHNIQUES on the last page of this pattern for a link to detailed information on retrieving the
correct number of stitches from a provisional cast on.
Lay the hood right side out with the Right under-chin extension facing you. Using your
gauge needle and beginning at the bottom inner corner of this extension, pick up and knit
16 stitches evenly along its edge. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are catching
the bar between the two knit edge stitches. To avoid a hole at the corner where the
extension meets the main hood section, pick up and knit one stitch at the corner gap and
place a marker after it. Purl and knit across the 120 [144] stitches that were retrieved from
the provisional cast on, working either knit or purl as the stitches appear. To avoid a hole at
the second corner as well, pick up and knit one stitch at the corner. (The two corner stitches
will be decreased out in the next row.) Then pick up and knit 16 stitches evenly along the
inner edge of the Left under-chin extension, in the same way that you did for the Right
extension. You should have 154 [178] stitches.
Photo at right shows the hood after stitches have been picked up.

Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

Row 1 (WS, decrease row): k3, (p2, k2) 3x, p1, p2tog; * k2, p2, repeat from * until one stitch before marker; p1,
remove marker, p2tog; (k2, p2) 3x, k3. 2 sts decreased, 152 [176] sts remain. You need a multiple of 4 stitches in
order to work 2x2 ribbing with one selvage stitch at each end.
Row 2 (RS): p3, * k2, p2; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; k2, p3.
Row 3: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * until 5 sts remain; p2, k3.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until ribbing measures 4.75 inches (12 cm), ending after a right-side row. At gauge, this will be
after row 30.
Tip: If you need to begin using a new ball of yarn while working the ribbing around face, it is advisable to
start the new yarn at the beginning of a row, where the join can be perfectly hidden.
Bind off in pattern.

RIBBING AROUND NECK


Using your 24 or 32 (60 or 80 cm) circular gauge needle, with right side of fabric facing you and beginning at the
Left under-chin extension, pick up and knit 96 [108] stitches evenly around neck edge of the hood. Pick up 48 [54]
stitches in each half (before and after the back seam). You need a multiple of 4 stitches in order to work 2x2 ribbing
with one selvage stitch at each end. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are picking up the bar between the
two knit edge stitches. By catching the bar between the two knit edge stitches, you will create a nice border for the
neck ribbing, which will be a single column of knit stitches formed by the innermost of the two knit edge stitches.
Row 1 (WS): p3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2 (RS): k3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 3 (WS, increase row): p3, kfb, k1, * p2, kfb, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; p3.
23 [26] sts increased, total 119 [134] sts
Row 4: k3, p3, * k2, p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 5: p3, k3, * p2, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 6: k3, p3, * k2, p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 7 (WS, increase row): p3, k1, kfb, k1, * p2, k1, kfb, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
23 [26] sts increased, total 142 [160] sts
Row 8: k3, p4, * k2, p4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 9: p3, k4, * p2, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 10: k3, p4, * k2, p4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 11 (WS, increase row): p3, k2, kfb, k1, * p2, k2, kfb, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
23 [26] sts increased, total 165 [186] sts
Row 12: k3, p5, * k2, p5; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 13: p3, k5, * p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13 until ribbing measures 3 inches (7.6 cm), ending after a wrong-side row. At gauge, this will be
after Row 19.
Bind off in pattern, but when there is one stitch left on the right needle, do not cut yarn. Instead, insert a removable
stitch marker or safety pin into that stitch to prevent the work from unraveling while you prepare to pick up stitches for
the buttonhole band. This stitch will be used as the first stitch when you pick up stitches for the buttonhole band.
Note: Continuing the yarn from the neck ribbing into the buttonhole band avoids having to weave in a tail that would
otherwise be created if you were to start the band with a separate ball of yarn. However, if you dont have enough
yarn left in the current ball of working yarn to complete the buttonhole band, you can go ahead and cut the yarn after
binding off the neck ribbing and start the buttonhole band with a new ball of yarn in order to avoid a splice in the
middle of the buttonhole band. The buttonhole band will require about 10 yards of yarn.

Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

BUTTONHOLE/BUTTON BANDS
Fold back the ribbing around face so
that approximately 3 to 3-1/4 inches
(7.6 to 8.3 cm) of it shows on the
outside of hood, making sure that
both ends are turned back equally.
Use pins or a basting yarn to
temporarily hold this cuff in place at
both ends while you pick up stitches
for the buttonhole and button bands.
Measure the length of each front
edge after folding back the ribbing,
and attach a removable marker or
safety pin at the mid-point to help
you distribute stitches evenly by
picking up half of them above and below the marker.
Buttonhole Band
With right side of fabric facing you and beginning at the bottom edge of neck ribbing on the Right side of the hood,
where the one stitch you are holding on a removable stitch marker is still attached to the working yarn, place that stitch
on your gauge needle and count it as the first stitch to be picked up for the buttonhole band. Pick up and knit 39 more
stitches evenly along the front edge of the hood, for a total of 40 stitches. Go through both layers of the folded-back
cuff when you come to it. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are catching the bar between the two knit edge
stitches. Use a crochet hook to help pull stitches through the double layers. Photo above shows stitches picked up for
the buttonhole band.
Work the buttonhole band rows as follows:
Row 1 (WS): P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 2: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 3: P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 4 (RS, buttonhole row): To ensure the buttonholes are not too large, work the yarn overs in this row snugly.
K2, * slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch, yarn over two times, k2tog;
k1, (p2, k2) 2x, p2, k1 *; repeat between * * one time;
slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch, yarn over two times, k2tog, k2.
Row 5: When you come to the yarn overs in this row for each buttonhole, knit the first one, and knit the second one
twisted by knitting into its back leg, as follows:
P3, * k1, k1tbl; (p2, k2) 3x, p2 *; Repeat between * * one time; k1, k1tbl, p3.
Row 6: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 7: P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Bind off in pattern.
The chart below indicates buttonhole placement.
Buttonholes are worked in the purl ribs at the center and both ends of the band.

Button Band
With right side of fabric on the Left side of the hood facing you, and beginning at the fold edge of the cuff, pick up and
knit 40 stitches evenly along the front edge of the hood. Be sure to match the spacing of the turned back cuff and
picked up stitches with the buttonhole band you completed on the other side. Go through both layers of the foldedCopyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

back cuff. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are picking up the bar between the two knit edge stitches. Use
a crochet hook to help pull stitches through the double layers.
Work seven button band rows as follows:
Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 (WS): P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Rows 2, 4 and 6: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Bind off in pattern.

FINISHING
Sew on buttons. Weave in ends.

Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved

ABBREVIATIONS & TECHNIQUES


C6B (Cable 6 Back)
Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 3 from left needle, knit 3 from cable needle.
C6F (Cable 6 Front)
Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 3 from left needle, knit 3 from cable needle.
Two special cable crossing techniques are worked in Row 1 of the crown shaping rows in order to reduce the number
of stitches in the cable from 6 to 5 while at the same time crossing the cable. There is no standard abbreviation for
these techniques, so they will be abbreviated in this pattern as C6-5B and C6-5F and worked as follows:
C6-5B (Cable 6 stitches, reducing to 5, and holding to Back)
Slip next 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 3 from left needle, then from cable needle knit
2 stitches together, knit 1. (1 stitch decreased)
C6-5F (Cable 6 stitches, reducing to 5, and holding to Front)
Slip next 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, from left needle knit 2 stitches together, knit 1, then
from cable needle knit 3. (1 stitch decreased)
k1tbl
(Knit one stitch through the back loop). Insert right needle from right to left into the back leg of the stitch on the
left needle and knit it from that position. This twists the resulting stitch.
k2tog
knit next 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased).
kfb
(Knit in front & back of stitch). Knit a stitch, leaving stitch on left needle; knit into the back loop of this stitch.
(1 stitch increased)
p2tog
purl next 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased).
ssk
(slip, slip, knit). Slip one stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit, insert the left needle into the two slipped
stitches in front of the right needle and knit them together from this position (1 stitch decreased).
s2pp
(A double decrease). With yarn in front, slip next 2 stitches purlwise to right needle; purl next stitch, then pass
the two slipped stitches over the stitch just purled.
provisional cast on
The following YouTube video has a demonstration of this technique:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3J-sUx_whE
retrieve live stitches from a provisional cast on
Carefully unravel the waste yarn chain, one stitch at a time, and slip each live stitch onto a needle as you do so.
Whenever you retrieve live stitches from a provisional cast on, there will always be one fewer live stitch to retrieve
than the number of stitches that you cast on. TechKnitter provides a detailed explanation of why this is so on her
blog at: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/01/knitted-fabric-knitting-up-vs-knitting.html.
When making this hood, it isnt necessary to compensate for this fact by casting on an extra stitch or by doing an
increase after retrieving all the available live stitches. Instead, before retrieving the first live stitch, simply slide
your retrieval needle through a loop of the stitch in the fabric immediately before the first live stitch, thus picking it
up to create a stitch out of it. Then continue by retrieving all the live stitches.
three-needle bind off
The following website has a photo tutorial showing this technique:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/FEATfall06TT.html
bind off in pattern
The following website has a video demonstration of this technique: http://knitpurlhunter.com/blog/?p=645
Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved