You are on page 1of 424

[]

V in c e n t B a stie n
J e a n -N o e l K a p fe re r

(A

C hina M a c h in e Press


010)68995261 88361066

010)68326294 88379649 68995259

010)88379007

| www.hzmedia.com.cn
www.h z b o o k .com
I www.china-pub.com

THE
LUXURY
STRATEGY

Break the Rules of M arketing to


Build Luxury Brands, 2nd Edition

[]

Vincent Bastien
Jean-Noel Kapferer

C h in a M a c h in e Press

C IP >
/ ( Kapferer, J. N. BastienV . .
213.9
The Luxury Strategy: Break the Rules of Marketing to Build Luxuiy Brands

ISBN 978-7-111-43968-4
I . n .

III - - - IV. F416

CIP
2 0 1 3 ) 214610

01-2013-5548
Jean-Noel Kapferer, Vincent Bastien. The Luxury Strategy: Break the Rules of Marketing to Build Luxury
Brands, 2nd Edition.
Copyright 2012 by Jean-Noel Kapferer, Vincent Bastien.
Simplified Chinese Translation Copyright2013 by China Machine Press.
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or any infonnation storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing,
from the publisher.
All rights reserved.
Jean-NogI Kapferer and Vincent Bastie Q

22

201411]
170mmX242mm 25.75
[SBN978-7-m-43968-4

99.00

100037)


C010) 68995261

010) 68326294

88361066
88379649

68995259


010) 88379007
hzjg@hzbook.com

The

luxury
Slraie

2 0



FASHION

2013 1 0 2 7

IV

me

Lmury
Strategy


2 8

VI

me
luxury
Strategy

//2
20 //6
//14
//20
//23
//35

//40

//41
//42
//43
//43
45
//48
//50
//51
//53
//57
//58
//59
//62
//63
3

I. //66
Z //67
3. //68
4. //69
5. //69
6. //70
7. //71
8. //72
9. //73
10. //74
II. //75
12.//75

vm

13. //76
14. //77
15. //78
16. //78
17. //79
18. //80
19. //81
20. //83
21. //84
22. //84
23. //85
24. //86
4

//88
//90
//92
//94
//94
//99
//101
//102
//103
//108
//109
//112
//113
//115

IX

//119
//121
//122
//123
//125
//127
//128
//129
// 132
// 134
// 138
//141
6

//143
//145
//146
// 148
//148
//149
// 149

//151
//151
//152
//157
//158
//159
//161
// 164
// 165
//169
//170
// 175
7//176
7

// 178
//179
.//180
//181
//182
//184
//185
//186
//]91
//192
//194
//197
//198

XI

//199
//202
8

//204
//205
//207
//208
//209
//210
//210
//211
//211
//213
//214
//216
//219
//220
//222
//223
//223
9

//227
232
//233
//234

xn

//237
238
//239
//240
240
//241
10

//245
//245
//246
//247
//248
//249
//250
//250
//251
252
//254
//255
//256
//256

//259
//264
11

267

//268
//268
//269
//274
//275
//276
//277
//278
//278
//284
//284
//285
//286
//287
12

//289
//293
//293
//296

13

//309

//313
//317
//324
//328

//331
//333
14

//336
//338
//340
//341
//343
//345
//345
//350
//352
15

//354
//355
//356
MINI//359
//361
//363
//367
//367

368
//370
16

//374
//390

The
Luxury
Strategy

2
.

The

iDxnry
Strategy

'

s d

S s iiS

19

(virtus)


215 195

1603 1868

16
)
Christopher J.Berry, T/ie/cfeao/XMXMAy1994.)

18

19
18 19


18
( 1752

18

19 2 0

20

20
2 0

19

2 0

2 0

2 0

16

lnv!S?l

s f flg l

)
19)
2 0 7 0

10

11

sAsI

2 0 8 0
-

12

19 2 0

5

1945

2 0 5 0

2 0 7 0
2 0 8 0
2 0 9 0
2 1

13

I-JKI

18

14

15

16

17

s3 I

18

LV

16

19

S i

9
)

20

21

19.

-----

3 0 %

22

23

s,s

1900

Simmel, 1990: 193):

24


(Simmel, 1990: 2 6 0 )

25

4 0 0 100

2 0 Ferdinand de Saussure
1972)

26



19

27

Berry, 1994)


11

15)

28

19

20

9 9 %

29

s ^ i I

Baudrillard, 1976)

30

H & M
Zara,
-

LVMH)

(
2



1-1 )

31

s !

32


(Benjamin, 2008)

LVMH,

-----
-

1984
-

2012

33

(
,

18

1789

2 0

2 0

34

//

Chadha and Husband, 2 0 0 7 )

35


F u k u y a m a , 1 9 9 2 )

1 9 6 8

Belk, 1988 )
Zara Mango

36

Mauss, 1950)


(Bataille, 1967)

37

38

Tlie
Luxury
Strategy

39



2007 10

40

Sicard,
2006) Doyle and Stem2 0 0 6 )

2005)

2 0 9 0

41

, UK

2011 240
1579 0 5
240 220
1/8

2 0 8 0 9 0 1989 11 2 3

2007

10

20003 0

20082 3
4 6

42

15

10

43

i/r S &


2-1 )

2070

90

21

2 - 1
2-1

44

2 0 0
2 0 0 0


H& M

45

Die I

s f f i l l !

46

1-1 )

Kapferer, 1998; Bamier, FalcyandValette-Florence, 2012),

5 )

47

| |

800
Kapferer, Laurent,
2012)
,

5 600

48

2007

1989

JD
Powers JD
Powers

2 100
313 000300

49

TMj

911
6 0

50

1989

1989 2 3


(
(

51

me I

?H

52

A6

A8

A8 SR

53

Si

Lipovetskyand
Roux, 2003 )

2 600

54

lexu

Richard, 2006)

JD Powers

55

, The|
s B l

911

16)

56

Diablo


2.6149

57

;!1I


6.75V 12


85 4 0 0
3 0 0 0 20073 1 0
3 0

58

8 0 %

2 4

2 4

0 0 7

59

!l a w S .

1971Daytona Spider 139.5

2 - 2 ) :

- J ------1

-----------------------

| m im

2 - 2

60

Logan, 5 000
Nano2 500

MINI)

2-2

61

, l!>e
0
y|


1789 8 4

7 000

62

3.8

2 0 7 8


1/3 Porsche Design

63

s A !n ^ m s u m

F1
F1
(F1 )
F1

F1

64

me
luxury
Strategy

SilversteinandFiske, 2005 )


2 4

65

Tfie!

1.

2 0 3 0


'

66

iU

2 .

123 6 9

67

3.

1962

1959 Quandt

19

18

68

4 .


2 0 %
8 0 % 8 0 %

MINI

5.

Tic Tac

69

Tfte
m i I

6 000

CEO


6-4)
11

1 4 )
14

6 .

70

7 .

71

sA s!


10

8 .
-

Pl

72

9 .

9 0 %

USP

2004

73

s l l

1 0 .

1 6

74

1 1 .

Logan 5 000
7 500

7 0

Pasha

1 2 .

75

1 3 .

2 0 5 0
5 0

1961


160

19 100
Clos du Mesnil

Clos du Mesnil800

76

1 4 .

-Maybach

-
Maybach

77

15

10^

1 6 .

78

1 7 .

Abbaye de Royaumont

79

stlr S !

1 8 .

3
MINI

2011 7

Trench

80

1 1 0 % 4 0 %


A6 ,

1 9 .

MBA

81

sfiS

82

2 0 .

8 0 %

1 9
SK2

5 0 %

5 000

83

^ I ^

2 1 .

2 2 .

2006 Alienware1996 Alienware

84

25
1.7
Alienware


Alienware
LVMH
Ijaouane and Kapferer2012)

2 3 .

CEO

85

A i

2 4 .

10 11

86

TUe
Luxury
strafe
4

87

sS l

88

Sapori2004: 39)

89

SI
4 S l i

Teil2005:
1 3 )

Chadha and Husband


2 0 0 6 )

90

R&ni Knag

CEO
)

1999
4 5

91

Teil, 2005 )

Joy,

92

Marion, 2005: 293 )

Le
Clos Du Mesnil (800

93

iai

94

5 )

^^

Silversteinand
Fiske2005)

Pannekoucke2005:67)
CEO

5 )

LV1892

95


lr

M on 1892

Relais& CMteaux)

Chateaux

2 0 %

1998

Chadha
and Husband, 2 0 0 7 )

96


1884
Cliquot

2 0 5 0

-

F1

97

S& 1

2007 160

Panthe 1949
2030

2 5
Trinity 1924

LOVE1969
*

Tank 9 0

1613
1602 0
5 1921

1886

98

4 *

2 0 5 0

1665

Kapferer, 1990)

= I8 6 0

20

1724 1800)

'

99

2 0

H& M

100

5 LAir du Temps

2007 8 1 5

RS 21)
1953

101

2 1
2 1


CEO

2 1

1735

D B S

102

19

265

L Airdu Temps
5 0

103

sS i

LV

104

France M3gazz'e ,

2007 8
1973

Royal Qiviuk
1 840

Super 200s

105

5 0 3282007
24k 3 0
514
J

1998

3 7 )

400

106

4 *

(Rare Cream)
4-1
4 - 1

1.

')

2.

3.

4.

5.

B C a tr y (2006).


1991

LVMH
3
1 0 %
1 0 % 2 0 % : .

107

2 0 %
,

-----

15 16

CITES)

108

Veblen1899 )

1890

109

.
. 1987
//e

/^wnfl2007 8 1 5

110

SPA

111

2 5

5 00025 000

798

1 )

112

1985

113

|^


38 000

114

115

The
Luxury
Strategy

10

11

12

The
luxury
Strategy

2
118

2 0 9 0

2 0 9 0 A
20072002
2012

2012 2 000 2009


2007 1 700 2009
1 5302011
480 180 9 2

119

sB !

(HNWI) 100
20058702006 950 2011 1 090
3403103305 0 4 0
10HNWI3 000
HNWI9.8 HNWI 0 . 9 %
HNWI36.1%

5-1 )
5 - 1
1976

1983

1994

2000

2007

2011

100

200

400

500

772

950

100

160

250

300

385

410

2011.

HNWI


5 0 % ,
3 0 % , 2 0 % , 1 0 % , 5 % ,
2%

120

RISC15
2009
RISC8 000 3 200
3 6 1 200

RISC

Dubois and Duquesne, 1990),


1 200 5-2)
6 1 % , 3 9 %
6 0 %

5 - 2

6 1 % )

25%

36%

3 9 % )

15%

24%

5-3,

5.4%
1 1 . 3 % , 2 % 5 %

5 - 3

5.4%

11.3%

2%

5%

121

5 % 1/35 %
6 0 % (Afewyor/t r /waf, 2011 8 3

1978

Stanley and
Danko, 1990)

3 5 4 9 12 500

2000

2000

122

2 0 % )
RISC
2001

5 4 ) ,

Kapferer,
1998 Bamier, Falcy and Valette Florence, 2002 )

123

5 4

97%

63%

86%

44%

88%

3%

9%

38%

76%

50%

88%

75%

59%

10%

3%

6%

26%

40%

40%

38%

35%

100%

38%

6%

26%

83%

21%

6%

23%

23%

31%

31%

21%

27%

78%

19%

15%

27%

78%

19%

12%

30%

9%

3%

6%

7%

16%

13%

6%

7%

10%

13%

3%

2%

63%

6%

0%

3%

2%

69%

0%

17%

36%

31%

J N K a p f e r e r (1998).

124


S
M E

logo logo ( Kapferer, 2010 )

125

, IBei
0

lo g o log o

logo
logologo5-1 ),

5 - 1

126

logo)
5-1

P
l
()5-1,
logo,
5-1

5-1

logo,

logo

Nunes and Dr^ze, 2009) 2 0 1 0 )

logo1 5 000logo
A

127

$ |

logo

.
c

128

1 1 0
8.2),8.0) 7.3)
(7.3 ) 6.8) 6.4) 6.1) 6.1) 5.7)
5.6)

129

Nautor s Swan

5-1

Must
12 18 2 5

5-2 )
5-2

130

Chadha
and Husband, 2 0 0 6 ) , 6 0 % 2 0 3 0

131



zeitaku

52011 11


2 0 8 0 9 0

70 000 6 700

7 900 3 100 2 600

132

2 200)5
Stanley and Danko,
1996)

gaijin

133

c/


logo


Ipsos
2 0 11): 6 6 % , 6 2 % , 5 5 % , 5 1 % , 4 2 % ,
3 1 % , 2 9 %

RISC
Kmes2007 10 4
4 2 % ) , 3 6 % ) , 3 3 % )
Park Avenue Wills Lifestyle
Wills
Wills

( 1

3 0 %
7 0 %

134

2 0 8 0

66 0 0 0

GDP
1003 0 1
800

2015

'

170
20109 2 Bain & Co, 2011),

135

_ rai

8 0

2020 1

9 6 1 900
6
2010
1 2 % 4 5 73%,
3 5 4 5 % ,

KPMG

7 2 %

6 2 %

6 0 %

6 0 %

136

PPR 20052010 1 0 3 5 %
Facebook,

9 6 6

logo (

2012

12)

137

st

LacosteCartelo
Crododile Garment

138

2011
1 3 % 1 2 % 1 0 % , 1 0 % ,
8 % , 8 % , 7 %
3 3 % , 2 4 % , 1 7 % , 1 3 % , 1 2 %
5 8 % , 5 7 % , 5 6 % , 1 3 %
11 %


4 5
(9 100 6 0 0

139


RISC----

18
1 0

100

140

5-1

141

142

The
Luxury
Slraiegy

3 0

2 0

143

sS ! ^
2 000


100

144

Ipsos World Luxury Tracking survey, 2 0 0 9 /1 0 ),


9 2 % ,
8 5 % ) 8 2 % ) 7 5 % ) 7 1 % )
( 7 0 % ) 5 7 % ) 5 7 % ) 5 5 % ) 5 3 % )
( 4 3 % )

(14 )

Kapfcrer, 2012)

H& M2010
24 H& M 140 2011

145

A 'i


2
5 2 8 H& M 130
0.9 6.5 2009

146

Bourdieu1970)

3 6
'
3 6 3 6 36

147

j j l g l

1933

148

)
1883 5 1921

149

S i

Flaminaire

1971

150

6-1 )
6 - 1

24 312

4 997

22 425

4617

15 344

4 570

12413

3 808

U 917

3 648

3 422

7 449

6 823

3 379

5 327

3 378

5 269

2 592

2 445

M illw a rd B ro w n -B ra n d Z (2011).

151


)
(Kapferer2 0 1 2 ) :

Belk, 1988 )

152


DNA


Kapferer, 2 0 1 2 )
6-1 )

l i

6-1


153

Floch2004)


Azoulay
andKapferer, 2006)

154

'
(

polo

polo

155

Te|


)
6-2

'

6 - 2
:

156

Abric, 2003; Michel,


2004)

Kapferer, 20 1 2 ) ,


12
18 2 5

12

1 8
2 5

^I

157

6-3; 5 )

VI P

6 - 3

158

6-3


Kapferer, 2012L

DuboisandPatemault, 1995 )
= 8.6 + 0.58X -0.59X

159

sSi

6-4

160

)
6W

6>5)

6 - 5

161

,J

s_

6-5

5 0

162

10 11

163

, The I

S i

i t f

2.0

1 2008

1
Facebook Twitter

164

2.0)365
2 4 7

19

165

SiH

14

5 % )

eBay
166

Facebook

167

a ll S p

2 0 % ,
iPhone

Facebook

168

(Kretz, 2010 ) Michelle P h a n ,

11

169

fill

T
C

LV)

LV;

170

Kapferer2010)

eBay

171

sAsli

EisendandSchuchert-GUler2 0 0 6 )

Amaldoss2006)

172

( Han e t a l , 2010)


8 5 T

T

1 0

173

!
i ^

2 4 7

,
)

174

175

2 3 %

eBay

2008 6 eBay3 860


eBay

176

Luxury
rate

2 5

177

1995770
20071 700
2 000

D& G, .
1

178

2 1

Zara H& M

Altagamma,

2 0 1

179

, TiK|

1858
1932
5 11
B
5

)
Kapferer2 0 1 2 ) :

180

181

$ ^

CorbelliniandSaviolo, 2009)

Zara

Facebook

182

7-1)

a)

b)

7 - 1

183

$ 1 S

13)

Optic 2000 )

A/X

184

7 5 %

Sicard2006)

Polo
7-2)

185

5 ^

I
I

7 - 2

Kapferer2012)

Hagtvedt2009

186

( Mr Clean Car WashEasycar


Armani
Collezione Emporio Armani
*

Armani Casa

Armani Casa

187

, Tae|

5 0


6-7),

RL Collection1 900
4 000Ralph Lauren 1 2 500
RL Blue Labe 300 800D Lauren R L
100 500.

188

Purple LabelBlack Label

400
1

IT,

189


J E K I

190

X=

13

191

s l &

SWOT )

192

Mont Blanc

7-3 ) ,

iPod
iPhone

193

The

7 - 3

194

*
Oriental Gourmands

195

logo

196

Armani+

Armani Fiori Armani D olci Armani Libri


Armani Bridal
6 - 5 ) ,
(Armani+

Armani Priv6 (
Giorgio Armani (
Armani Collezione (
Emporio Armani ( D&G
Armani jeans (
Armani Exchange ( H& M
Giorgio
Armani Emporio Armani

197

S H

Chanel Precision) ,
( Chanel Science )

198

Sanofi )

199

1 000
Armani Priv6 Giorgio Armani Armani Collezione (

Emporio Armani, A/X Armani


*
Armani C ollezione

p olo 5 %
9 0 % p olo

200


(Danziger2005 )

201

l
1!

6-2 )

Chavs,
Tommy Hilfiger

202

9 5 %

203

me
Luxurv

strategy

Vertu

204

205

IM |




Logan,
P olo

206

DVD

207

&

2 )

208

209

s^ |

210

100
2 0
,

211


!i& U@

212

Savorgnan di Brazza
)

213

Si

Vuitton
trunk

214

Barr^ re,
La Baule Erraitage Negresco Fouquets )

1 5 % 3 0 %

215

LV Monogram ) Oyster )

)

8-1)

216

8 - 1

7
13

217

1986
monogram
monogram

monogram

PachaTankSantos Panth^re

1986

monogrammed5 000
1 000

218

2 000


E pi

LV monogram
LV

monogram

monogram
Epi

E piEpi

219

,J h e !

.1 | ^

EpiMonogram5 0 % ,

220

2006 9

221

AsnidresMaranello

222

13

223

2005 4 8 %

Crillon

EiglierandLangeard1996)
)

2 0

224

2
X


Philippe Starck

10

225

The

im m
Strategy

226

30m l10 600


300

RM-008
415 000

227

100
100
9 9

3 0 %

]00,
9 9 ,

228

19

Amaldoss and Jain, 2005 )

LV Pierre HermS
13

229

s I

LV

15

230

LV
Monogram

LVLV

LV

)
43 000
C 3 5 % , 5 000
Logan MCV230 000SL 65 AMG
3
]

231

s&

3 0 %
1 0 0 %

232

(
Cava (
Cava

3 0 %

100

8 )

233

s^|


)
1

234


LV

LV

LV
4 0 %
LV
1986 3 0 %

3 0 %
LV
LV
Avenue Maxceau

LV

235

s S !

2 0

236

)
6
eBay

237

iH


McArthur
Glenn) ,
)

LVLV

238

sine qua mm,

239

10

240

241

)
2001 iPod,
iPod iTunes
MaciPod
200737.5%iPod
Mac 7 5 % iPod Mac
iPod 2 2 %

Mac
MaciPod,
MacWindows
iPod M ac
iPod
iPhoneiPad) iPod

10

--

242

243

me

Luxury

Strate^

10

2 0 7 0
6

20012008

244

10

Zara
Zara

245

s S !

)
9

246

10

12

247

S ^ j

( 6

248

10

2 0 8 0

249

A !

2 0 8 0

Epi

250

10

1 8

251

A !

Morn/e

252

10

'

253

4 10

CEO
254

10

2007
1.55

"

255

i H ^

A B

tK

256

10

Must

257

S i

----

258

10


Facebook

Facebook
259

I&

2009

ComScore Media Matrix


2011 9 Facebook
1000 500
3 0 %
3 %

4 0

Facebook
Facebook

260

10

11

261

, me |

s i l l

)2.0

262

10

Facebook

23%

Chronographe

Net-aporter)

3 .0

3.0

263

i t f

3.0

3.0
2.0
3.0
Facebook

Facebook Facebook

Facebook

Facebook

264

265

266

The
Luxury
strate

11


iR

267

sS l

268

11

8 0 %

11-1

269

l i -i

270

IJ


7 5 % V IP New Bond
2 5 %

271

MU

()

LV

272

11

1950

)
1966,
2 4
1967

273

fill b

16

274

11

LV

5
1968 5

275

, TM|
$ |

1966 11 2 8

540
15 000

276

11

5 0

Kapferer, 1990)
2006
1000
5
2 0

277

(Danziger2005 )

Kapferer2012)

,
VIP

10

( 6
10

278

11

1000

1.0)

2005

279

iil

15)

3 0

10

280

11

YouTubeFacebook

Bo and Gu6vel, 2 0 1 0 ) :

281

1 ^

3 9

2011
400

2 0 8 0

1868

Edun0

282

3 6 0

100

1200

283

sSl

Twitter

1

284

C ,
DG

LV

1772

285

IS i

Kapferer1990)

( 5 )

,
~

286

11

Abeles, 2 0 0 8 )

287

ii i

Becker, 2002)

288

Tiie
luxury

Strategy

12

2011 LV 1 8
LV231 245
274
H&M ( 164
145

8 7
12-1

1997 0 14 335

289

1 2 - 1

12

27 445

15

24 554

18

LV

23 172

39

8 763

59

6 171

66

5 356

70

4 781

72

4 580

73

4 498

77

4 383

93

3 794

95

3 732

99

3 591

Interbrand (2011) .

-----

290

12

8 0 % )
Kapferer and Tabatoni2012 )

2 0 3 5 %

2 5 %

291

Tlte

292

12

9 0 %

3 0 %

293

s^j

<3

12-1 )

12-1

294

12

15 25 )


'

15

295

TIM)I

) 2

18 10

.
.Domenico di Sole

296

12

297

, r
ae|
sSi

2007

298

12

5 ^

299

Be j

S& l f l

1 2


1987

---
2001 54 000
250

300

12

2 0
9 0

12
1 2
6

DFS,

LV


1
()

301

2
1

1 2 1
MINI ) 2

302

12

1
1

2 0 1
MINI15

M INI

2 0

303

2
2

304

12

2 2


()

'


IT
ERP

305

306

The
Luxury
Strategy

14

15

16

13

The
LQXU0

Strategy

13

308

13

Trunk Special Oder


Keepall)

(MonogramEpi
MonogramLVE pi)

Trunk Special Oder

1875 Jules-

309

s^ S I " ^

Louis Audemars Edward-Auguste Piguet


1892
1972

'

700 550
24 000
8 0 0 0
( 600 000

8 000
20 000
50

310

13

BoxsterA
1

Perrin,

311

1972
7 000 1
) 2008 260

()

312

13


13-2 ( 13-1

313

Te|

sffig | i*

ft

314

13

1986 Monogram

Deci-De

Kapferer, 2008: 2 8 0 )

315

- )

LV Monogram)

316

13

H& M Zara Mango

gn:)

'

317

13-3)

318

13

13-4,

1 3 4

13-5 )

319

a^
*

rs

,u

/ %

lj

I I

1 3 - 5

13

H& M )

T
2005

Armani Collezione Emporio Armani


Armani Exchange

13-6 )

321

13-7)


1 3 - 7

7-1 )
322

13

,
RLRLRL

323

. rae|

sAua |

Siiskind2001 ),

Pour Homme
Opium pour Homme
f

324

13

5 1921
1925

2 0 9 0

2 0 801 000 9 0
1 )

20 %

325

326

13

327

IHe|

1985 ,
1990)

328

13


4
(/


1947 5

A3 8 0
1968

329


J K I

sAS?e |

4 0

6 5 % 7 5 %

51 % ) 3 5 %
2 0 %

13-1

13-1

43.2M

66.7%

18.9M

29.3%

2.6M

4%

64.7M

100%

10.6M

3.1M

13.7M

21.2%

42.6M

65.8%

8.1M

12.6%

0.3M

0.5%

JRobuchon Pierre
GagnaireAlainDucasse

330

13

Phan, 2007)

331

, n e j
a m ffi
ft

1925
2 0 8 0
2 0 9 0

332

2007 2008
20092002

2009

1 2

333

, n e |

3 )

Sahalia, Parker and Yogo, 2 0 0 4 )


NYSE-AMEX

334

13

14

13-1 )

2008 2009
1 0 % 2010 1

2010

335

The
Luxury

Strategy

14

336

14

1 ,
4P [ product) price) place) promotion)],

4P
4P


()
(

337

KapfererandTabatuni, 2012)

1944
1 2 0 % 1 5 %

338

14

PIMS (
BCG (

1 2 %
8 %
3.5%

339

: .

2002
2002
1.7252007 4.016 4 %
1 7 % , 4 % 2 6 % ) ,
2007 1.55
Fortoje, I7 September 27 )

1999


.
2008

340


12

11)

341

1994,2003
2004CCR50

CCXR
200720020042005 2006

12

2 0 8 0 4 0

342

14

3 0
4 0
4 0

'

()

343

3 I

-
1882 1900
W1 , 1919
1929
V 12
1940

1930 1945


12

344

14

345

13

346

14

8 0 % ,

2002

iPod)

8
^

347

10)

3001 5 % ,
5 % ,
)

8 5 %
2 0 9 0 1 %

16

348

14

2 0
7JC


(Le Male

349

19

350

14

:
1

:
1957

1997


CD

351

2 0 9 0

1994
1997A 2002

A
360 2007 7 4
8 0 %

2011 2012

1898

1998

352

14

2000 1 400
3 000)
2002
500

1 7 % ) ,
:

353

TDe
Luxury

Strategy

15

354

15

D ,

12

13

355

1976

IBM DO S
1977n
Mac M ac

1983
CEOM ac
( 1984

IBM

1985

1996 1997 1997

NeXT,

iMaciPod iTunes,

356

15

iPhone,
2007 ^
2007
IBM

iPad2010 iPad

iPad
2011 1980

L V

357

S } @ |

(iMac

iPod

iPod

iPhone
2001

iPhone

3 0 % )
iPhone,

iPhone
iTunes,

iPhone iPad
2010

358

15

2 0 7 0

2007 6 2 9 599
600

13 399
400
iPhone

M IN I

MINI

MINI

15 000 23 000

)
MINI, MINI
2 0 6 0 MINI 1959

M IN I
M INI
2 0 6 0
MINI

359

S T S

m i n i
M INI

MINI 2 0
M INI

MINI) ,

M INI MINI
MINI 6 0
CooperSMINI

300 3 2 0

MINI MINIMINI
MINI

M INI M INI
*

M INI

MINI 4 1
M IM MINI

B2C (

360

15

B2B (

N espresso

361

362

15

1931

16

2012

2006

2007

363

,JIK

P 4 P

2 0 8 0

364

15

13

Picard, Pochet Desjonqu^res

Pochet Desjonqu^res

4 P P

365

366

15

20048 0 %

367

1993

polopolo
80
polo100
polo

KapfererandGaston-Breton, 2 0 0 8 )

368

15

Kapferer and Gaston-Breton, 20022008 )

polo

1302 2 0 polo
6 2 5

150
Cathy

369

polo
6 5 150

12
(

370

15

4 )

4 )

371

"is *

s f f lii

12

372

m
Luxury
Strate^

16

3 0

373

, Hie i

1987

2 0
CEO

374

16

3.5

3 0 15
55010

CEO

375

18

iPhone iPad

Stella
McCartney
SK2
La Mer La Prairie

376

16

Kapferer, 2012)
4 5 %
1 7 %

2 3 %

2 0 %

2007
erjLwx

377

6 0 %

378

16

^
Kapferer, 2010)

2007

379

IQKapferer, 2010)

IllyIlly
Illy
Illy

Illy

380

16

X>

HNWI)
VHNWI)

'

2010

9.5

381

iikK I
s ffi; |


2002


(
)

2 0 % )
*
6 0 % )

382

Nespresso

1 000

F1
2000

383

I I ^
IjaouaneandKapferer2 0 1 2 )

AlterEco AlterEco

AlterEco IllyIlly

384

16


2011

16-1

1
1

1 6 - 1
JNK/VB adaptedPPR-Gucci Laurent claquin.

Explora

385

U2

JEM ( Lush (

386

16

3 0 %

387


g
2 0 7 0

15

388

16

12

12


x>

389

2003 2009 7
2013

2008 4 )

390

Abeles, M (2008) Anthropologic de la Globalisation, Payot, Paris


Abric, J-C (2003) Pratiques Sociales et Representations,'PUF, Paris
Amaldoss (2006) trad in g up A strategic analysis of reference group effects',
Marketing Science, T1 (5), pp 932-42
Amaldoss, W and Jain, S (2005) 'Conspicuous Consumption and Sophisticated
Thinking*, Management Science^ 51 (10), pp 35-45
Amaldoss, W and Jain, S (2005) Tricing of conspicuous goods9Journal o f Marketing
Research^ 42 (1), pp 30-42
Arnould E, Price, L and Curasi, C (1999) *Magical special possessions', European
Advances in Consumer Research^ 4, pp 264-66
Aspers, P (2010) Orderly FashionA Sociology o f Markets, Princeton University
Press, Princeton
Azoulay and Kapferer (2003) "Do brand personality scales really measure brand
personsLlityV Journal of Brand Management^ 11 (2), November
Bagwell, K, Riordan, M H (1991) cHigh and declining prices signal product quality5,
American Economic Review, 81, 224-39
Bain (2011) 'Perspectives on world luxury market5, Paris
Bain 5c Co (2011) ^Luxury in 2011\ Bain World Reports, Milano, Italy
Barnier, Falcy and Valette-FIorence (2012) "Do consumers perceive three levels of
luxury?5 The Journal of Brand Management, 19 (5), pp 1-14
Bastien, V, Dubourdeau, P-L, Leclere, M (2011) La Marque France, Presses des
Mines
Bataille, G (1967) Le Part Maudit, Les Editions de Minuit, Paris
Bataille, G and Hurley, R (1991) The Accursed Share. Zone Publishing Company,
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Baudrillard, J (1976) UExchange Symbolique et the Mart, Gallimard, Paris (English
translation 1993, Symbolic Exchange and Deaths Sage Publications, Thousand
Oaks, CA)
Becker, C (2002) Du Ricard dans man Coca^ Editions d^rganisation, Paris
Belk, Russell W (1988) "Possessions and the extended self', The Journal o f Consumer
Research, 15 (2), pp 139-68

391

1:

Bendell J and Kleanthous A, *Deeper Luxury Report5, WWF, London


Benjamin, W (2008) The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,
Belknap Press, Harvard
Berry, C (1994) The Idea of Luxury^ Cambridge University Press, Cambridge
Beverland, M (2006) T he real thingBranding authenticity in the luxury wine trade5,
Journal o f Business Research, 59, 251-58
Bo, D and Guevel, M (2009) Brand Content^ Dunod, Paris
Bo, D and Guevel, M (2010) Brand Content: Comment les marques se transforment
en media^ Dunod, Paris
Bourdieu, P (1970) La Distinction: Critique sociale du judgement^ Minuit, Paris
Bourdieu, P (1979) La Distinction: Critique sociale du judgement^ Editions de
Minuit, Paris
Bothner, M S, Godart, F C and Lee, W (2010) 'What is Social Status? Industrial and
Corporate Change*
Carcano, L and Ceppi, C (2010) Time to Change: Contemporary Challenges for
Haute HorlogerieyEgea Editions, Milano
Carnevale-Maffe Carlo Alberto (2011) Why Italian companies are selling their
family jewels^? Via Sarfatti
Castarede, J (2008), Histoire du Luxe, Eyrolles, Paris
Chadha, R and Husband, P (2007) The Cult o f the Luxury BrandInside Asia's love
affair with luxury, NB Publishing, Boston, MA
Chao, A, Schor, J B (1998) 'Empirical tests of status consumptionevidence from
womens cosmetics,, /owrw^/ of Economic Psychology, 19,107-31
Chevalier, M (2009) Luxury ChinaMarket Opportunities And Potential, Wiley,
Singapore
Clifford, S (2011) 'Even marked up, luxury goods fly off the shelf', Netv York Times^
4 August, p A l.
Corbellini, E and Saviolo, S (2009) Managing Fashion and Luxury Companies^ Etas
Editions, Milano
Corneo, G and Jeanne, O (1997) 'Conspicuous consumptionsnobbism and coniotmism% journal of Public Economics^ 66, pp 55-71
Danziger, P (2005) Let Them Eat CakeMarketing luxury to the masses - as well as
the classes, Dearborn Trade Publishing, a division of Kaplan Books, Chicago, IL
Dion,D and Arnould, E (2012) 'Retail luxury strategy: assembling charisma tlirough
art and Kizgic% Journal of Retailing^ ]a.nuaiy
Doyle, P and Stern, P (2006) Marketing Management and Strategy, 4th edn, Pearson
Education, Harlow
Dubois, B and Duquesne, P (1990) Existet il un Consommateur de Luxe Europeeny
HEC Working Papers, Paris
Dubois, B and Paternault, C (1995) 'Understanding the world of international
luxury brands% Journal of Advertising Research, 35 (4), pp 69-76
Dubois, D, Rucker, D and Galinsky, A (2010) eThe accentuation bias: Money literally
looms larger to powerless, social psychology and personality5, Science Online
First, 26 April, 1 -7
Durklieim, E (1930) De la Division du Travail Social, PUF, Paris
Eiglier, P and Langeard, W (1996) ServuctionLe Marketing des Services, Ediscience
Internationale, Cachan, France
Eisend, M and Schuchert-Giiler (2006) Explaining counterfeit purchases1, Academy
of Marketing Science Review, 6 (12)

392

Floch, J (2004) Ulndemodable Total Look de Chanel^ IFM-Regard, Paris


Fukuyama, F (1992) The End o f History and the Last Man, Penguin, London
Girard, R and Gregory, P (2005) Violence and the Sacred^ Continuum Press, London
Giron, M E (2010) Inside Luxury, LID Publishing
Granot, E and Brashear, T (2008) From luxury to populence: inconspicuous
consumption5, ACR Proceedings, Memphis Conference, 35, pp 991-92
Griskevicius, V et al (2007) 'Blatant benevolence and conspicuous consumption
when romantic motives elicit strategic costly signals5, Journal of Personality and
Social Psychology^Vol 93, pp 85-102
Griskevicius V, Tybur J S and Van der Bergh B (2010) 4Status, reputation and con
spicuous conservation,, Journal o f Personality and Social Psychology, 98 (3), pp
392-404
'
Groth, J C and McDaniel, S W (1993) T he exclusive value principle5, Journal of
Consumer Marketings 10 (1), pp 10-16
Hagtvedt, H and Patrick,V (2008) 'Art and the brand: the role of visual art in en
hancing brand extensibility5, / Mr^z/ of Consumer Psychology, 18 (1), pp 212-22
Hagtvedt, H and Patrick, V (2009) The broad embrace of luxury% Journal of
Consumer Psychology, 19, pp 608-618
Han, Y, Nunes, J and Dreze, X (2010) 'Signaling status with luxury goods: the im
pact of brand prominence% Journal o f Marketing, 74 (July), pp 14-30
Han, J-M , Suk, H-J and Chung, K-W (2008) The Influence of Logo Exposure in
Purchasing Counterfeit Luxury Goods, DMI Conference, Essec, Cergy-Pontoise,
France, 14-15 April
Hubert, PI and Mauss, M (1981) Sacrifice: Its Nature and Functions, University of
Chicago Press
Ijaouane and Kapferer, J-N (2012) 'Developing luxury brands within luxury groups synergies without dilution', Marketing Review St Gallen, Vol 1 (2012), pp 2 4 -2 9
Ipsos. World Luxury Tracking, HEC Conference, Paris,! May, 2011
Janssens, K et al (2009) 'Can buy me love: how mating cues influence men^s interest
in high status Gonsumer goods5, Working Paper No 2009/570, Gent University,
School of Economics and Management
Jee Han, Y, Nunes, J and Dreze, X (2010) Signaling status with luxury goods: the
role of brand prominence9,/owrn^/ o f Marketing
Kapferer, J-N (1990) Rumours, processes, uses and image^ Transaction Books, New
Brunswick
Kapferer, J-N (1998) 'Why are we seduced by luxury brands ?' Journal of Brand
Management^ 4 (4) pp 25 1 -6 0
Kapferer, J-N (2008) The New Strategic Brand Management: Creating and sustain
ing brand equity long term, 4th edn, Kogan Page, London
Kapferer, J-N (2010) "Luxury after the crisis: pro logo or no logo?1 The European
Business Review, Sept-October, pp 4 2 -4 7
Kapferer, J-N (2010) 4A1J that glitters is not green: the sustainable future of luxury?
The European Business Review, Nov/Dec
Kapferer, J-N (2011) 'Quelle strategic pour la Marque France?' in Revue Frangaise
de Gestion, Numero Special Marque France, Nov-Dec
Kapferer, J-N (2012) Why luxury should not delocalize: a critique of growing ten
dency5, The European Business Review^ March/April
Kapferer, J-N (2012) The New Strategic Brand Management^ 5th edn, Kogan Page,

393

London
Kapferer, J-N (2012) T e luxe est il compatible avec le developpement durable?
Enquete aupres des clients du luxe eux-memes,, HEC Paris, Research Reports
Kapferer, J-N and Gaston-Breton, T (2002) Lacoste: The legend, Cherche Midi,
Paris
Kapferer, J-N and Gaston-Breton, T (2008) The Style Rene Lacoste, Editions
lEquipe, Paris
Kapferer, > N and Tabatoni, O (2011) TVMH-Hermes: Le dilemme des entreprises
familiales du luxe*, Analyse Financiere, N 38, Janvier-Fevrier
Kapferer, J-N and Tabatoni, O (2011) T h e LVMH-Bulgari deal: what lessons for the
luxury industry? HEC Paris Research Reports
Kapferer, J-N and Tabatoni, O (2012) *Are luxury brands really a financial dream?5
The Journal o f Strategic Management Education, January
Kapferer, J-N and Laurent (2012) *Is there a minimum price of luxury: An interna
tional comparison across 20 products', HEC Paris Research Reports, HEC Luxury
Lab
Karpik, L and Scott, N (2010) Valuing the Unique, Princeton University Press
Kretz, G (2010) "How fashion bloggers build themselves as a brand1, Unpublished
doctoral dissertation, HEC Paris
Kowinski, W S (2002) The mailing o f America^ Xlibris Corporation
Lipovetsky, G and Roux, E (2003) Le Luxe EternalDe Vage du sacre au temps des
marques^ Gallimard, Paris
Lochard, C and Murat, A (2011) La Nouvelle Alliance: Luxe et developpement
durable Eyrolles
Maffesoli, M (1988) le Temps des Tribus, Table Ronde Editions
Mandel, N, Petrova, P K, Cialdini, R B, im ages of success and the preference for
luxury brands% Journal of Consumer Psychology, 16 (1), pp 57-69
Marion, G (2005) ^ b je ts et marques de luxe1, in Le Luxe: Essais sur la fabrique de
Vostentation, ed O Assouly, Editions du Regard, France
Maslow, A (2011) Hierarchy of needs: a theory o f human motivation^ Kindle ebook
Maynard, J (2007) 'Why is the Prius Successful?' New York Times^ 4 July
Mauss, M (1950) Sociologie et Anthropologie, PUF, Paris
McCartney, S (2005) The Fake FactorWhy we love brands but buy fakes^ Cyan,
London
Michel, G (2004) Les Strategies d 3Extension de
Vuibert, Paris
Nueno, J L and Quelch, J (1998) T he mass marketing of luxury1, Business Horizons^
41 (6), 61-68
Nunes, J, Dreze, X and Jee Han, Y (2010), 'Consumption in a recession: toning it
down or turning it up \ Journal o f Marketing
Orsato, R (2009) Sustainability StrategiesWhen does it pay to be green? Insead
Business Press
Pannekoucke, S (2005)
condense du paraitre aristocratique,, in Le Luxe: Essais
sur la fabrique de l3ostentation^ ed O Assouly, Editions du Regard, Paris
Perey, E and Meyer, L (2009) Luxury Attitude, Maxima, Paris
Phan, M (2007) 'Service innovationsthe case of the Plaza Athenee Paris Hotel5,
Decisions Marketings 48, pp 9-2 0
Phau, I and Prendergast, G (2000) Consuming luxury brands', Journal o f Brand
Management^ 8 (2), 122-38
Podolny, J M (2005) Status Signals: A Sociological Study of Market Competition^

394

Princeton University Press


Reichheld, F (2006) The Ultimate Question: Driving good profits and true growth,
Harvard Business School Press, Boston, MA
Rucker, D D and Galinsky, A D (2008) 4Desire to acquirepowerlessness and com
pensatory cons\xm^tvon\ journal o f Consumer Research, 35 (August), pp 257-267
Sahalia, A, Parker, J and Yogo, M (2004) 'Luxury goods and the equity premium,,
The Journal of Finance, 59 (6), pp 2959-3004
Sapori, M (2004) *La construction liberale du luxe', in he Luxe: Essais sur la fabrique de ^ostentation% edited by Oliver Assouly, IFM Regard, Paris
Schnabel H and Storchmann, K (2010) Trices as quality signals: evidence from the
wine market', Journal o f Agricultural & Food Industrial Organization^ 8 (2)
Shapiro, C (1983) "Premiums for high quality products as returns to reputation5, The
Quarterly Journal o f Economics, 98, pp 659-80
Sicard, M-C (2006) Luxe, Mensonges et Marketing, 2nd edn, Village Mondial, Paris
Silverstein, M and Fiske, N (2005) Trading Up: Why consumers want new luxury
goods and how companies create themyPortfolio, London
Simmel, G (1900) Philosophie des Geldes, Duncker & Humblot Verlag, Berlin
(English translation, 2004, The Philosophy o f Money^ Routledge, London)
Smith, J (2010) dem an d for Electric Vehicles in Europe', The Times, London, 5
Stanley, T and Danko, D (1996) The Millionaire Next Door: The surprising secrets
o f America's Wealthy, Simon & Schuster, New York
Siiskind, P (2001) Perfume, Penguin, Harmondsworth
Teil, G (2005) lLes procedures de qualification des produits de luxe' in he Luxe:
Essais sur la fabrique de Vostentation^ ed O Assouly, Editions du Regard, Paris
Ward, J L, Schuman, A and Stutz, S (2010) Family Business as Paradox, Palgrave
Macmillan, London
Worchel, S, Lee, J and Adewole, A (1975) Effects of Supply and Demand on Ratings
of Object Vsl\uq^Journal o f Personality and Social Psychology
Xiao Lu, P (2008) Elite China, Wiley, London

395

20

3
1.


2.

3.
4.

5.

6.

7.

8 .
9 .
1 0 .
1 1 .
1 2 .
1 3 .
1 4 .
1 5 .
1 6 .
1 7 .
1 8 .
1 9 .
2 0 .
2 1 .
2 2 .
2 3 .
24.


10

11

12

13

14

15

M I N I

16

http://player.youku.com/player.php/sid/XNjU3NTQ2MTQ0/v-swf

http://player.youku.eom/player.php/sid/XMjQ1NjQwNTQ0/v.swf

http://player.youku.eom/player.php/sid/XNjQ0MTE2OTQ0/v-swf

http://www.tudou.eom/v/-DMzOu6i Zc/&resourceId=0 04 05 99/v


.swf

http://share.vrs.sohu.com/1638668/v.swf&topBar=1&autoplay=f
alse&plid=6535203&pub catecode=0&from=page

:
:http://www.szhgh.com/Article/health/zjy/

http://www.anhesiji.com/index.php7action-category-catid-

39
http://blog.sina.com.cn/gxiulin

http://vdisk.weibo.com/sZsWpyRe1VNgxmm

http://vdisk.weibo.com/sZFe459UyqXb38k
http://vdisk.weibo.com/sZFebj8tsfqDsLK

http://vdisk.weibo.com/s/aoA4rIaHunAku
-

http://vdisk.weibo.com/sZaAEFtj rd0J0j

20 !
http://wuhu i01.com/defau11.asp?cateID=15