Conde Nast UK 6/14

JUNE 2014 3.
99
EUROPE'S BEST
SECRET SEASIDE HOTELS

SMART
SWEDISH
SUMMERS
THE INSIDE TRACK
STYLISH &
AFFORDABLE
HOTELS IN
PARIS
ON HOLIDAY
WITH
HILARY SWANK
EMILY BLUNT
OUR GUIDE TO
THE YEAR'S
MOST EXCITING
FESTIVALS
OFF-RADAR CARIBBEAN
CAMLIA
RING WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005
CAMLIA BROD
SECRET WATCH WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
www.chanel.com
CONTENTS
JUNE 2014
Features
64
Europes best
seaside hotels
These are our top-secret,

word-of-mouth winners for a
quick and fresh coastal x
76 Costa de la Luz
The light-drenched corner of
Andaluca is a place to revel in
nostalgia for old-school Spain
92 Belize
Take to the empty

waters and beach bars of the Caribbean
gem with a true bucaneering soul
102 Gotland
Free spirits should rent a house on

Swedens unspoilt summer isle and go
wild in the countryside
86 Maldives
PHOTOGRAPH: TOM PARKER
Fancy-dress fashion at one of the

islands smartest new hotels
Jerez Cathedral seen from the grounds of Alczar fort in Andaluca

June 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 3
www.dior.com
CONTENTS
June 2014
126
26
37
10 Editors letter
12 Contributors
16 Word of mouth Whats creating
a buzz around the world, from Beijing

to San Francisco
26 Short break Summer time means
116
52
32
festival season: we round up the best

places in Europe to give it some welly
32 Neighbourhood on the up
Hang out with a boho crowd in Vila
Madalena, So Paulo
37 Where to stay Ace Hotel
Downtown Los Angeles; Bed-hopping

with Hilary Swank; Left-eld rooms
on the Right Bank in Paris; The
Weekender in Cheltenham; savour
a taste of the coast with Sally Shalams
Great British Breaks
A Riverfront Villa at
Four Seasons Resort
Bali at Sayan, Ubud.
Photograph by
Michel Figuet.
Suncare: Clarins Sun
Care Cream High
Protection
6 Cond Nast Traveller June 2014
the look of your favourite hotel
114 A travellers tales
Around the world with the Golden

Globe-winning actress Emily Blunt
116 In Britain Head for the winding
narrow streets of York to discover the

best bits of this Northern star
123 The experts Meet the yoga
instructor to take your breath away in

Costa Rica. Gadgets The Geek gets
manly with testosterone-fuelled gear.
Family An oriental adventure for
teens in China. Feasting Why chorizo
is a kitchen-staple superhero and
which wines stand up to the spice.
Books This months best new travel
titles. Q&A From gluten-free Parisian
patisseries to hippy hideaways in Mexico
your questions answered by our team
50 A letter from Istanbul, where
140 Competition Win a 4,000
52 Style file Eye-popping neon art
143 Reader offer Save 15 per cent
surprising treasures are often wheeled

out by savvy scrap-metal vendors
On the cover
63 Trendwatch This month, shop
inspired by feathers, plus the boutique

gym trend, and more. Beauty Around
the world with Maria Sharapova.
Jewellery Take a New York minute for
an in-the-know tour of Tiffany & Co.
Mens Sushi secrets in the Land of
the Rising Sun; the lowdown on the
high-top look; how to master the
Med like Alain Delon. On the scene
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes
holiday for two in Naples, staying at

Grand Hotel Parkers Napoli
on a seaside break at one of New
Zealands top boutique hotels
172 Room with a view The Setai,

Miami Beach
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; FLORENCE DEAU; DANNY NORTH; COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO; ANDREW ROWAT; JESSICA SAMPLE
In this issue
EDITORS LETTER
nd so im off to coachella, the music festival in Palm Springs where

youre not allowed to drink anywhere near the stage and everyone looks
like Kate Bosworth and wanders around in laser-cut suede. The reason
Im going is my 27-year-old niece is getting married and, since she is
partly based in LA, she has decided to hold her hen party there. The party is to consist
of a gathering of nearly 30 boys and girls, a large number of whom are models, in a
house she has procured, with a pool and inatables of Justin Bieber.
And yet something is wrong. For a while now Ive been aware of it. Reading a proof,
or watching television, I catch it out of the corner of my eye, or sense its presence
alarmingly near. Issy, I say to my friend at work one day. Could you step in to my ofce for a
moment for a brief meeting? Do please shut the door. She sits down, concerned. Does it seem to
you perhaps that my nose is growing, that it is getting larger almost as we speak? She pauses. You
must stop this. Its getting out of hand. Its just silly. And she turns to go.
I have spectacles waiting for me at the opticians. They have been there for six months. I always
wanted to have glasses. And now that I can barely see the hand in front of my face I cant seem
to nd the wherewithal to pick them up. I have, however, gone to Debenhams and re-pierced my
ears. And I have bought a pair of ankle boots. They are golden and glittery. I have no idea what
to wear them with so I wear them with everything in the hope that something will pan out. I nd
that people are no longer talking to me but staring, head tilted, at the footwear of Hermes. I have
my nails painted in what can only be described as toothpaste-turquoise. God, thats a disgusting
colour, a friend says. I know, I say absentmindedly, but apparently its very cool.
Apparently very cool is the death knell. Any fool can tell you that.
Mostly Im worried about making an idiot of myself at Coachella, I say at supper that night.
My concern is, for example, that were invited to Tom Fords party, and I get over-excited and
nd myself whizzing down Tom Fords pool slide, but it has a break in it and I cut myself but dont
notice and so I climb out of the pool, bleeding but nevertheless ecstatic because the glass in my
hand still has wine in it. I have a wet cigarette in my mouth and my M&S swimsuit has come down
in the process, revealing just one former boob, and Im making some kind of sodden and barbaric
noise like a triumphant bear.
There is a pause. You have way too much middle-aged angst, says my stepbrother.
Later that night I go back to the almost narcotic comfort of googling Kate Bosworth Coachella
best outts and playing with my enormous honk.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who know that a simple pair of jean
shorts and a white T-shirt is the obvious way forward.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3
MelindaLP
WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR

Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source
of honest, first-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this months festivals
feature, we asked our contributors to
name their favourite festival
Martin Morrell Photographer, Belize (p92)
The nicest festival experience I have had was at Wilderness

where theres a spa set up around a glorious lake that you can
swim in, wooden hot tubs and a sauna in a shepherd hut. There
are also masses of massages and different types of yoga to try.
Daisy has three children, a dog and an addiction to halloumi
Ken Kochey Photogapher, Gotland (p102)

Im not really a festival guy (not big on crowds) but I am
kind of fascinated by Burning Man in the lunar landscape
of the Nevada desert. It sounds like the real deal and an
expression of a sub-culture that is so vivid and colourful.
Ken grew up in Hawaii. His work has taken him from the beaches
of Bahia in Brazil to tribal ceremonies in the South Pacic
Mary Rozzi Photographer, Maldives (p86)

In the 1990s I went to Nola, Italy to see La Festa dei Gigli,
a Catholic celebration of the towns patron saint, Paolino.
Twenty men carried towering sculptures (gigli) through the tiny
streets to the main piazza where a huge party went on all night.
Mary divides her time between LA, New York and Paris
Antonia Quirke Writer, Costa de la Luz (p76)

The Llanthony Valley and District Annual Show,
with its alpaca display, monster-vegetable competition, mums
two-legged sack race and hog roast, has the kind of perfection
usually only seen in highly unlikely movie rom-coms.
Antonia is a lm critic and presenter on BBC radio and TV
Stanley Stewart Writer, Belize (p92)

The All Saints festival in Todos Santos, Guatemala
is three days of unrestrained fun, which starts on 31
October with drunken picnics in the cemetery. I love the
marimba music, the total mayhem and the persistence
of a tradition that pre-dates the Spanish conquest.
Ireland-born Canada-raised Stanley now lives in Dorset
PHOTOGRAHPS: KEN KOCHEY; MICHAEL LOVENTZ; MICHAEL MORRELL; TOM PARKER; STEVE TURVEY
Daisy Finer The Spa Guide editor
The audience is every bit as spectacular as the performers

at Thimphu Tshechu in Bhutan, which celebrates
the introduction of Buddhism to the kingdom. Its held in
September at the colossal Tashichho Dzong in the capital
city, where the punishing Himalayan sun amplies the
technicolour, time-travel atmosphere.
London-based Martin roams the world as a travel photographer
EDITOR
Melinda Stevens
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT/PA TO THE EDITOR Tabitha Joyce
DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Spankie ASSOCIATE EDITOR Peter Browne
MANAGING EDITOR Paula Maynard ACTING MANAGING EDITOR Jessica Diamond
FEATURES EDITOR Issy von Simson WORD OF MOUTH EDITOR Fiona Kerr
EDITOR AT LARGE Daisy Finer
FASHION
FASHION AND BEAUTY DIRECTOR Fiona Lintott
MENS EDITOR David Annand WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR Jessica Diamond
RETAIL EDITOR Thea Darricotte
ART
ART DIRECTOR Pete Winterbottom DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Caroline Metcalfe
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Paula Ellis ART EDITOR Jon-Paul Pezzolo
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRODUCTION Matthew Buck
PICTURE EDITOR (PRINT AND DIGITAL) Karin Mueller
COPY
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Rick Jordan
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Christy Ward SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Grinne McBride
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Jonathan Bastable, Justin Cartwright, Horatio Clare, Sophie Dahl, E Jane Dickson,
Helen Fielding, Giles Foden, Loyd Grossman, Jeremy King, Emma Love, Kate Maxwell,
Lee Marshall, Thomasina Miers, Reggie Nadelson, Harriet OBrien, Redmond OHanlon,
Tom Parker Bowles, Harry Pearson, Antonia Quirke, Paul Richardson, Anthony Sattin,
Nicholas Shakespeare, Sally Shalam, Stanley Stewart, Colin Thubron
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
James Bedford, Mirjam Bleeker, David Crookes, Squire Fox, Philip Lee Harvey,
Max Kim-Bee, Ken Kochey, Lisa Limer, Lisa Linder, Martin Morrell, Anders Overgaard,
Tom Parker, Oliver Pilcher, Preston-Schlebusch, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jenny Zarins
CNTRAVELLER.COM
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Tony Cross DEPUTY EDITOR Laura Fowler
ASSISTANT EDITOR Hazel Lubbock
SYNDICATION AND EDITORIAL BUSINESS

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson
EDITORIAL BUSINESS AND RIGHTS EXECUTIVE Kate Foreman
SYNDICATION syndication@condenast.co.uk
INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman
COND NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Nicky Eaton
SENIOR PUBLICITY MANAGER Harriet Robertson
PUBLICITY MANAGER Melody Rayner PRESS OFFICER Richard Pickard
The most desirable villas in

the heart of the Mediterranean
Copyright The Cond Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU.
Printed in the UK by The Artisan Press Ltd. Colour origination by CLX Europe Media Solution Ltd.
Published monthly. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission
is strictly prohibited. The titles Cond Nast Traveller and TRUTH IN TRAVEL are registered at the
US Patent Office and in the EU as trademarks. All prices correct at the time of going to press
but subject to change. The mail-order protection scheme does not cover items featured editorially.
The paper used for this publication is recyclable and made from renewable brous raw materials.
It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainably managed forests and elemental or
total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The producing mills use third-party certied management systems,
applying standards such as ISO 9001 and ISO 14001. This magazine can be recycled through
kerbside collection, or at a recycling point.
Go to www.recyclenow.com and enter your postcode to nd your nearest sites
Cant nd Cond Nast Traveller in the shops?

To order a copy and past issues, call 0844 848 5202
(MonFri 8am9.30pm, Sat 8am4pm), quoting 7021
+44 (0)20 7377 8518

www.TheThinkingTraveller.com
At the Cond Nast Traveller Readers Travel Awards 2007-2013:
Best villa rental company | Best on the ground service
Best range of villas and facilities | Best presentation of villas
The subscription rate (post paid) to Cond Nast Traveller is 47.88 per year (12 issues).
For all subscription orders (by credit card or otherwise) call 0844 848 5202. Overseas per year:
89 to the eurozone, 80 to the rest of Europe, $99 to the USA and 89 to the rest of the world.
Special offers and promotions are also advertised in the magazine. For UK subscription enquiries
call 0844 848 5202 or email cntraveller@subscription.co.uk. Manage your subscription online
24hrs a day by logging onto www.magazineboutique.co.uk/youraccount.
For overseas enquiries call +44 (0)1858 438815. Orders, changes of address and customer enquiries
should be sent to: Cond Nast Traveller, Subscriptions Department, Tower House, Lathkill Street,
Market Harborough LE16 9EF or email cntraveller@subscription.co.uk
All editorial enquiries and unsolicited submissions to Cond Nast Traveller that require replies must be
accompanied by stamped, addressed envelopes. Emails will not be responded to.
Cond Nast Traveller cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material or photographs.
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR
Simon Leadsford
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Juliette Ottley
ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR Erica Wong
PROJECTS MANAGER Justine Board
SENIOR ACCOUNT & PROMOTIONS MANAGER Amy Cole
DIGITAL SALES MANAGER Sophie Stoneham
PROMOTIONS
PROMOTIONS DIRECTOR Victoria Higgins
PROMOTIONS CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lee Osborne
PROMOTIONS CO-ORDINATOR Celia Thurseld
REGIONAL OFFICES
REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood (020 7152 3276)
REGIONAL ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Heather Mitchell
PARIS OFFICE Helena Kawalec (00 33 1 44 11 78 80)
ITALIAN OFFICE Valentina Donini (00 39 02 805 1422)
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US Shannon Tolar Tchkotoua (00 1 212 630 4913)
ASIA & PACIFIC OFFICE Kim Kenchington (00 852 2882 1106)
INDIAN OFFICE Marzban Patel (00 91 22 2287 5717)
MIDDLE EASTERN OFFICE Ali Asgar Mir (00 97 143 913360)
FLORIDA AND CARIBBEAN OFFICE Maria Coyne (00 1 305 756 1086)
GREEK OFFICE DK Associates (00 30 697 444 2002)
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING
CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR Shelagh Crofts
CLASSIFIED SALES MANAGER Emma Roxby
CLASSIFIED SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Alice Lovell
CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Sarah Hawkins
MARKET RESEARCH
MARKETING DIRECTOR Jean Faulkner
ASSOCIATE RESEARCH DIRECTOR Gary Read
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Susie Brown
MARKETING EXECUTIVE Katie Bowman RESEARCH MANAGER Tim Dickinson
SENIOR DATA MANAGER Tim Westcott
CIRCULATION
CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Richard Kingerlee
NEWSTRADE CIRCULATION MANAGER Elliott Spaulding
NEWSTRADE PROMOTIONS EXECUTIVE Anna Hickes
SUBSCRIPTIONS
SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Patrick Foilleret
SUBSCRIPTIONS, PROMOTIONS AND MARKETING MANAGER Claudia Long
SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Eleni Ruffels DIRECT MARKETING MANAGER Lynden Breatnach
CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER Anthea Denning
PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Jenson
PRODUCTION MANAGER Joanne Packham
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER Xenia Antoni
ACTING PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Dawn Crosby
ACTING PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Sarah Isle
COMMERCIAL AND PAPER PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Martin MacMillan
COMMERCIAL JUNIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Jessica Beeby
CNTRAVELLER.COM
DIGITAL DIRECTOR Jamie Jouning
DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR Albert Read
MANAGING DIRECTOR Nicholas Coleridge

FINANCE DIRECTOR Pam Raynor
FINANCIAL CONTROL DIRECTOR Penny Scott-Bayeld
HR DIRECTOR Hazel McIntyre
COND NAST TRAVELLER IS PUBLISHED BY COND NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD, Vogue House,
1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (020 7499 9080; email: cntraveller@condenast.co.uk)
DIRECTORS
Jonathan Newhouse (Chairman), Nicholas Coleridge (Managing Director),
Stephen Quinn, Annie Holcroft, Pam Raynor, Jamie Bill, Jean Faulkner,
Shelagh Crofts, Albert Read, Patricia Stevenson
CHAIRMAN, COND NAST INTERNATIONAL Jonathan Newhouse
WORD OF MOUTH
Whats hot in Nevada London San Francisco Beijing Ibiza New York
EDITED BY FIONA KERR
HORSING AROUND
Want to take glamping to a new frontier? Muster a gang for a teepee-style stay on the prairies
thundering in herds across the prairies. When the retreat opens

this month, guests can take guided hikes through the canyons to see
them, ride the mountain trails and explore abandoned mining towns.
Mustang Monuments glamorous teepees are as far as you can get
from a cowboy camp-out. Hand-painted in Native American style,
they have wooden oors, supremely squishy beds, deep leather
armchairs and hand-woven rugs, with 24-hour butler service. In the
evenings, there are cocktails and wood-red feasts, traditional pow
wow dancing and folk singers performing Woody Guthrie songs among
the pines: it all creates a Moonrise Kingdom sense of nostalgia in a
beautifully art-directed corner of the world. BRITT COLLINS
www.mustangmonument.com. From 600 per night all inclusive
PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISTI JOHNSON; MICHAEL PARTENIO
urrounded by red canyons and big skies, the backdrop to

Mustang Monument in Nevada is pure Wild West fantasy.
But the original dream of Madeleine Pickens, an animal-rights
activist and the British ex-wife of a Texan oil billionaire, was to create
a sanctuary for the USAs native wild horses rather than a smart
eco-retreat. I bought the land [more than half a million acres] to
save the mustangs, but then I thought itd be lovely to create a
sustainable ranch to share with others, she says.
Pickens is no stranger to animal philanthropy on a grand scale: in
the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina she arranged to airlift 800 stray cats
and dogs to new homes in California and Colorado. So far, she has
saved 600 mustangs from the slaughterhouse, and they are now
WORD OF MOUTH
STITCH IT TO THE MAN
Guerilla artists are making their mark on the streets

of the world... with wool. Meet the yarn bombers
WHAT IS YARN BOMBING?
A type of street art where objects are covered
in striking woolly cosies.
Clockwise from
below: Craft and
Folk Art Museum;
the NY subway;
Magda Sayeg;
a granny square;
Oleks Crocheted
Bike, No 13
WHY WOOL?
Why not? Its natural, colourful and tactile.
And it can be easily removed.
WHERE CAN I SEE IT, THEN?
Yarn bombers often work quickly under the
cover of darkness, so it could appear any time,
anywhere. More helpfully, Magda Sayeg the
mother of yarn bombing has just completed
an enormous, six-storey installation at the
new Dover Street Market in Manhattan.
BUT ISNT KNITTING FOR GRANNIES?
No. Its new faces are fresh and fun.
WHO ARE THE NAMES TO KNOW?
THE ORIGINAL: Magda Sayeg
I discovered yarn bombing by putting knitting
on the door handle of my then clothes shop
in Houston, Texas. I never knew it would start
a movement. Wool evokes sweet, nostalgic
emotions. People knit for love,
to make something warm and
beautiful for someone.
That resonates with
the world.
magdasayeg.com
THE REBEL: OLEK

As I said in the title of my show at New
Yorks Christopher Henry Gallery, Knitting
is for pussies. I crochet. Sometimes people
forget the conceptual ideas behind the aesthetic.
The pink camouage covering of the Wall
Street bull was my own intervention in
the conversation about greed. oleknyc.com
THE ONE TO WATCH: London Kaye
I met Olek while working at the Apple Store;
thats how I found the world of yarn bombing.
New Yorks subway stations and a block-long
fence in Williamsburg are my two favourite spots
to bomb. I have crocheted with 100ft-long
Ethernet cables, but it didnt go as well.
londonkaye.com
SO, WHERE CAN I CAST OFF?
Yarn Bombing Los Angeles (www.yarnbombing
losangeles.com) hold get-togethers at the Craft
and Folk Art Museum in LA, while Londonbased collective Knit the City (www.
knitthecity.com), headed by the
terrically named Deadly Knitshade,
create woolly works across the
capital. HAZEL LUBBOCK
WORD OF MOUTH
KYOTO
THE BEST THING SINCE
VANCOUVER
BARCELONA
PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER BENNETTS; SHUTTERSTOCK; JEFF SINGER/GALLERY STOCK
itch the cronuts, drop that cupcake

bakeries are going back to basics,
with bread rather than sweet
treats taking the starring role. But these
new places are more than just somewhere
to pick up a baguette (even if it is artisan
sourdough): delicious design is also an
essential ingredient. Theres a modernists
dream in the shape of Panscape in Kyoto,
and fun hybrid hangouts bakeries by
day, bars by night such as Easy Tiger
bake shop and beer garden in Austin or
Brisbanes Chester Street Bakery & Bar.
Bien Cuit in Brooklyn offers a full-on
feast of speciality loaves (toasted poppy
and sun-dried pear; 68-hour-fermented
rye and wheat) in a rustic, exposed-brick
space, while at Melbournes Baker D
Chirico the wavelike wooden racks that
run up the wall are practical as well as
beautiful, serving as cooling shelves
for the straight-from-the-oven bread.
Gold-and-black VyTA in Turin looks more
like a smart cocktail spot than a bread shop;
by contrast, Vancouvers Meat & Bread
keeps things simple with its pared-back
industrial design and menu of freshly
baked ciabatta rolls and roasted organic
meats. And now even hotels are getting
in on the act: Barcelonas new Praktik
outpost, which opened in April, is based
around a sleek ground-oor bakery, Baluard,
rather than a bar. EMILY MILLER
MELBOURNE
Clockwise from this picture:
Panscape; Baker D Chirico;
signage at Easy Tiger; The
Trouble Coffee & Coconut
Club; New Yorker board at
Easy Tiger. Opposite, from
bottom: Praktik Bakery hotel;
Meat & Bread; Panscape
SAN FRANCISCO
ON THE
SIDE
AUSTIN
San Francisco has stepped up to the bread bin

with the latest micro-trend: POSH TOAST.
Along with the simple nostalgia of biting
into a warm, thickly buttered slice, theres
a world of possibilities for those who like
to customise their snacks. The origin of this
seemingly simple foodie craze has been
traced back to one caf: THE TROUBLE
COFFEE & COCONUT CLUB. Here, the
curious menu of coconuts, coffee and
cinnamon-covered toast encapsulates owner
Giulietta Carrellis personal formula for living:
sustenance (coconut), communication
(coffee) and comfort (toast). But it spawned
a revolution. Across town, RED DOOR
serves inch-thick slices, ACRE COFFEE has
a dedicated toast bar and THE MILL offers
creations including wholewheat with butter,
pumpkin butter and sea salt, and raisin-fennel
bread with butter and honey. Combine
artisanal toast and fair-trade coffee for a
match made in hipster heaven. EM
WORD OF MOUTH
LIGHT ON
As Ibizas opening parties kick off, we introduce the islands latest arrivals
The new beach
The new classic
The new retreat
COTTON
BEACH CLUB
HACIENDA
NA XAMENA
KIMA
Hotelier Pablo
Carrington (Cap Rocat,
Mallorca; Torralbenc,
Menorca) has updated
this hotel near San
Miguel, giving rooms an
airy look and turning the
poolside restaurant into
a laid-back hangout. The
dress code is low-key
chic, with smart private
terraces to make the
most of the view.
+34 971 334500; www.
hotelhacienda-ibiza.com.
Doubles from about 185
Inside, this ancient San

Rafael nca hosts the
worlds top holistic
practitioners in its ve
treatment rooms.
Outside, detoxing
models and tness
freaks make the most of
a raw-food restaurant,
gym and yoga studio.
Its all hidden away
in a lush valley,
with pretty suites to
follow in 2015.
www.kimaibiza.com
MAYA BOYD
This all-white newcomer

should put tiny Cala
Tarida on the map. The
cliffside restaurant
serves lazy lunches and
starry suppers, theres
Friday-night outdoor
cinema, and the beach
below has private
changing cabanas with
showers (a rst for
Ibiza), crystal-clear
waters and lovely southwesterly sunset views.
+34 633 622000; www.
cottonbeachclub.com
MEMORY LANES
multi-use space called Re-Up (59
Tie Shu Xie Jie). A hub for the
capitals edgling sustainability
movement, the project includes
a caf, rooftop urban farm,
workshop space and store
selling eco-conscious products.
Its a bold but smart attempt
to enlighten Beijings frenzied
consumers while regenerating the
old streets that Lin Lin loves.
LIN LINS FAVOURITE HUTONG SPOTS

FOR A DRINK Qianmen
Yuanshenghao Museum is dedicated
to erguotou (a local liquor), which
inspired the erguotou bonbons in
Re-Ups caf. 40 Liangshidian Jie
FOR NOODLES Si Ji Min Fu
restaurant is cramped. The staircase
is too steep. But the zhajiangmian
(traditional fried-noodle dish) here
is the best. 8 Langfang Ertiao
FOR DESIGN Ubi Gallery has
brought a new crowd to Dashilar
for its modern ceramics.
62 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
FOR LUCK Lao Beijing
Tu Ye Dian sells painted
rabbit-god gurines,
which people buy for
good fortune. Its a rabbit
in an opera outt. 45
Liu Li Chang Dong Jie
ADRIAN SANDIFORD
The next generation of museums is tackling

powerful current topics through sleek design
his is a year of many weighty political anniversaries, from
20 years since the end of apartheid in South Africa to the
centenary of the outbreak of World War I. However, new
museums are focusing on todays thought-provoking themes,
all housed in high-design buildings. This month the National
September 11 Memorial & Museum (www.911memorial.org)
will be completed in New York. Set beneath the 1,776ft One
World Trade Center, its a coming together of footpaths, plazas,
carvings of victims names and healing water, letting visitors
reect on the attacks and issues arising from them. The Canadian
Museum for Human Rights (www.humanrightsmuseum.ca) in
Winnipeg will be the rst devoted to the subject when it opens
in September. The architecture is part of the narrative, theres
a darkness-to-light path, Garden of Contemplation and Hall of
Hope. It will challenge visitors to examine how human rights
touch their lives every day, says museum president Stuart Murray.
The Muse des Conuences (www.museedesconuences.fr)
in Lyon, also slated for September, explores how scientic
knowledge applies to contemporary life, with exhibitions dedicated
to theories including the Big Bang. The design, which melds
transparent and opaque chunks, is an ode to deconstructionism,
and the location, at the conuence of the Rhne and Sane
rivers, plays on the theme of fusing ideas. KAREN BURSHTEIN
PHOTOGRAPH: COOP HIMMELB(L)AU
Beijings network of historical

alleyways or hutong is fast
disappearing. But local creative
agency Jellymon, led by Lin Lin,
is hoping to reverse that trend.
Having worked on campaigns for
companies including Uniqlo, her
latest project is more personal:
converting a crumbling building
within Dashilars hutong, south
of Tiananmen Square, into a
WORD OF MOUTH
the trends taking

off and those running
out of fuel
SUMMERS NEW SIPS

THE SPRITZ: BRITS SPRITZ
WHERE Kamm & Sons at Street Feast,
Dalston Yard, East London
WHAT 35ml Kamm & Sons British Aperitif, 15ml
elderower cordial, 50ml English sparkling wine,
50ml soda water. Stir with a slice of cucumber
and grapefruit and serve on the rocks
WITH Baja sh tacos from Breddos
WHY Alex Kammerlings botanical spirit is the
elegant, Anglo answer to sticky-sweet Aperol
LONG ISLAND CITY

The latest next Brooklyn is in Queens. Stay at new Ace-alike The
Paper Factory, drink microbrews, then culture it up at MoMA PS1
ALONE TIME
Need a break? Just a short one? Like Airbnb by the hour, new
app Breather rents rooms in cities (currently New York and
Montreal) to work in or escape to. But not for that, naughty
THE SHANDY: HEDGEROW SHANDY
BREAKFAST CLUB
WHERE Barnyard, Fitzrovia, central London

WHAT 25ml sloe gin, 10ml lemon juice, 10ml sugar
syrup, 15ml pink-grapefruit juice, 35ml tonic water,
topped with cider. Serve in a half-pint glass tankard
WITH Barnyards crispy chicken wings with
smoked paprika, garlic and lemon
WHY The grown-up way to drink cider
and the smart mix for a festival ask
The cool kids are raving at the crack of dawn at Morning Glorys
pre-work parties in an East London warehouse
THE WINE COCKTAIL: LITTLE LIVENER

WHERE Rawduck, Hackney, East London
WHAT 35ml white vermouth, 65ml sparkling wine,
twist of lemon zest. Serve chilled in a wine glass
WITH Rawducks cauliower fritters with cucumber
yogurt and curry leaves
WHY Last years She + T (sherry and tonic) from
Sager + Wilde left us thirsty for more refreshing
ways to drink fortied wine, and now vermouth
is having its turn. SOPHIE DENING
HIGH-HEEL WELLIES
Yes, they now exist. No, they should not be seen at
Glastonbury. You wont need them in any case as forecasters
are predicting this summer will be a scorcher
OTHER PEOPLES FEET

From July, travellers on the new Toreiyu bullet train in Japan
can soak their tootsies in special footbath carriages as they
whizz through the countryside. Eww
COMING TO THE CAPITAL

Ham Yard Hotel
OPENS
1 JUNE
They say: Tim
and Kit Kemp
have designed
Ham Yard,
left, with an
urban-village
feel around
a unique new
pedestrian thoroughfare in Soho.
We say: With shops, a restaurant
and bar, 24 apartments, a spa,
90 rooms, a rooftop garden and
its very own theatre, its the
most ambitious project to date
from Firmdale Hotels (Covent
Garden Hotel, Crosby Street
Hotel), and a surere hit.
Youll say: Strike! in the four-lane
1950s bowling alley from Texas.
1 Ham Yard (+44 20 3652 2000;
www.hamyardhotel.com).
Doubles from 310
Shangri-La At The Shard
The Beaumont Hotel
Mondrian London
OPENS 6 MAY
They say: The tallest hotel in
Western Europe. The contemporary
interiors complement Renzo Pianos
architecture, and the breathtaking
views from oor-to-ceiling
windows unfold in all directions.
We say: Its high, taking up oors
34 to 52 of the 72-storey Shard.
And its late: the original plan
was to open in time for the 2012
Olympics. But the shiny skyscraper
glamour with a distinctly Asian
avour is worth the wait.
Youll say Thank God I dont
have vertigo as you swim minilaps of the 36-foot innity pool
on the 52nd oor Londons
highest when it opens 600ft
above the city in July.
31 St Thomas Street (+44 20 7234
8000; www.shangri-la.com/
london). Doubles from 450
OPENS AUTUMN
They say: Grand in style, intimate
in scale. A distinctive hotel based
on the golden age of hospitality.
We say: In their rst hotel, Chris
Corbin and Jeremy King, the duo
behind The Wolseley, swap the
classic European glitz of their
dining rooms for a 1920s New
York gentlemans-club look.
Youll say How do I book ROOM?
Thats the hotels inhabitable
sculpture by Antony Gormley.
Brown Hart Gardens (+44 20 7499
1001; www.thebeaumont.com).
Room rates TBA
OPENS SUMMER
They say: Envisioned by Tom
Dixon, Mondrian London
brings the heat, intensity and
energy of the original Hollywood
Mondrian to the Sea Containers
building on the South Bank.
We say: With 359 rooms, its
big, and Dixons design plays on
its cruise-liner proportions and
nautical connections (check out
the copper sculpture in the vast
lobby, inspired by a ships hull).
Seamus Mullen (from New Yorks
Tertulia) overseeing the kitchen
and Ryan Chetiyawardana (from
Hoxtons White Lyan) mixing drinks
will draw the crowds across the river.
Youll say: Relax or roof? Deciding
between the basement spa and
the rooftop bar will be tough.
20 Upper Ground (+44 20 3747
1000; www.mondrianlondon.com).
Doubles from 234
CHECK IN Also look out for buzzy fun at The Hoxton Holborn (opening this summer), eclectic style and mean cocktails at the new Zetter Townhouse on
Seymour Street (October), and 16 Art Deco-style rooms at The Arts Club, above, on Dover Street (late 2014)
ILLUSTRATIONS: ELENA VILTOVSKAIA
SUB LOVE
Villa company Olivers Travels has launched Lovers Deep a
submarine made for two beneath the Caribbean. Its yours for
175,000 a night. Deeply... unsexy
NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW THIS...

T R A I L F I N D E R S
5 TANJONG JARA RESORT, MALAYSIA

LIKE THE RESORT, OUR OFFER IS EXTRAORDINARY

7 nights at the 5
Tanjong Jara Resort, Malaysia
from 1,175 - Saving over 250

)-+*%(.!$4(*0!(3+**(-4!-*)(-)*,'!((%)# %0%)#!2/,-%*)-4+
4!))%-*/,.4% !,)#!*".%0%.%!-4,!-./,).-) ,Includes flights, breakfast & transfers
Tailormade Travel Worldwide 020 7368 1354

First & Business Class Travel
020 7368 1355
trailfinders.com
Holiday price is per person based on twin/double share and subject to availability. Valid for selected Sep - Nov 2014 departures.
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND
FESTIVALS
If you think these summer celebrations are the preserve of teenagers and ageing hippies,
think again. Theyve got smaller and smarter, taking place not just in fields but forts,
beaches, parks and pastel-pretty villages. They have Michelin-starred chefs, lakeside
spas and philosophical debates amid the endless music. All are waiting to be discovered
in magical worlds that exist just for a few days. Heres our pick of Europes best
PHOTOGRAPHS: DANNY NORTH; ANDREW WHITTON
Festival No 6, Portmeirion, Wales.

Opposite, festival-goers at sunset
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND FESTIVALS

Best for free-spirited foodies
WILDERNESS
Oxfordshire
Can a music festival make you smarter?
Wilderness thinks so, as well as pampered,
and very well fed. Here, among Cornbury
Parks lakes, woods and glades, featherheaddress-wearing partygoers drift from
The School of Lifes thought-provoking
talks to performances from Shakespeares
Globe, catching a couple of music acts
(Burt Bacharach and London Grammar
headline this summer) in between. Food
is top-notch: an Old Spot bacon bap
from St John cures hangovers, meze from
Moro refuels before wild swimming in
the lake. Banquets by Simon Rogan,
Angela Hartnett and Russell Norman
kick off evenings that could lead from
a roller disco to a forest rave. This July
the Wilderness gang also head to North
Devon for their new Somersault festival
(www.somersaultfestival.com), capturing
the same spirit with added seaside activities.
710 August (www.wildernessfestival.com;
weekend camping ticket 143.50)
Best for surprises in the shire
BEAT-HERDER
Lancashire
Distinctively northern-style Beat-Herder
has been lovingly cultivated by local
collective Toil Soundsystem, who put on
free parties here in the Ribble Valley in
the 1990s. The ercely DIY ethos remains,
and they cram a lot of fun into a small
area. The central woodland hides a
pop-up street with tattoo parlour, a
church that holds three services a day
(hymn books are lled with disco hits)
and a garage forecourt offering hosedowns. Step into a phone box and be
taken through secret tunnels to hidden
caverns, or dance in the courtyard of the
corrugated-iron Fortress. The line-up
competes with much larger festivals.
Last year Nile Rodgers was fresh from
Glastonbury; this year Happy Mondays
will get the 24-hour party people dancing.
1820 July (www.beatherder.co.uk;
weekend camping ticket 112)
Best for a rockstar fairytale
FESTIVAL NO 6 Wales
The fantasy location is lure enough: the
Italianate village of Portmeirion, with
pastel houses, cobbled streets, woodlands
and beaches. And this much-buzzed-about
festival is intimate yet full of surprises. Last
year there were hallucinogenic carnivals,

discos on a grounded boat, human chess
games in medieval costume in the
grand piazza and spooky processions of
lampshade-wearing women winding
through the alleyways. Now in its third
year, this is an indie-rock lovers dream
Primal Scream and Manic Street
Preachers have played in the past but
half the fun is exploring. Stumble on a
band busking in the woods, get lost
along the seashore or seek out real ales at
country pubs and home-baked scones in
old-fashioned tea rooms. Somehow, like
pieces in a puzzle, the spectacular scenery
and surrealism all make amazing sense.
57 September (www.festivalnumber6.
com; weekend camping ticket 160)
Best for urban beats
FIELD DAY London

The capitals coolest festival rolls out across
a whole weekend this year in Victoria Park,
and its not just the line-up thats getting
bigger (Metronomy and Pixies top the
bill). Food is a big bite above the average
festival fare, with the nest food trucks
being wheeled in by Street Feast (the people
behind the hit Hawker House night
ska punk in scattered tents and cellars.

Play games in sunken gardens and row
boats across a twinkly-lit lake. Top it off
with an invite from Winterwell founder,
Josh Ford, to watch the sunrise from
the Philosophers Tower in the woods.
3031 August (www.winterwell.co.uk;
Best for creative kicks
PORT ELIOT Cornwall

an Airstream, the ultimate
festival accessory; outdoor art
at Wilderness; a lantern-lit
wood; a festival sculpture;
Beat-Herder, Lancashire
As otherworldly and romantic as the

rambling estate its held in, Port Eliot
plays out like an oversized village fete. Its
all rather posh and colourful but hosts,
Peregrine Eliot, and his wife, Catherine St
Germans, know their crowd. The orangery
houses a ower-arranging contest, the
walled garden has fashion stalls (Stephen
Jones and Luella Bartley have pitched up
in the past), the opulently threadbare
dining room is turned into a cinema and
the kitchens are the setting for banquets,
this year served up by Skye Gyngell. The
sideways spirit continues after dark when
a narrow path leads through trees to a
yurt with ales, music and dancing hosted
by modern-day dandy Gaz Mayall, with
market in Hackney), and the London

Brewers Market replaces warm cider with
craft ales. Given its East London location,
Field Day is hipster-heavy and LA girl band
Warpaint (this years Haim) and Aussie trio
Jagwar Ma (as if Happy Mondays met the
Beach Boys on the dance oor) are the
names to check. Away from the music, the
Village Green is home to a tongue-incheek country fair with sack races, tea-bag
tossing and a winkle-picking competition.
78 June (www.elddayfestivals.com;
weekend ticket 78)
PHOTOGRAPHS: AHSLEY DAVIS TILLY; DANNY NORTH
Best for left-field grandeur
WINTERWELL
Dorset
THERE ARE DISCOS

ON A GROUNDED
BOAT AND SPOOKY
PROCESSIONS OF
LAMPSHADE-WEARING
WOMEN
After a year off, the Winterwell family

descends on the sprawling grounds of St
Giles House. The talented crew put on
immersive events throughout the year
and this bucolic weekender is titled The
Lost Pleasure Grounds, recreating a
Georgian tradition when the Earl of
Shaftesbury opened his home to the public.
Order your 19th-century costume and join
the period theatre tour of the grounds.
Take a seat at the grand feast in the
dining room. Groove to gypsy disco and
performances from Jake Chapman and

Gruff Rhys. Its rare that such a cast
of characters is grouped together for a
weekend, and its very special indeed.
2427 July (www.porteliotfestival.com;
Best for family fun
CORNBURY
Oxfordshire
About as civilised as festivals get, Cornbury
is a hit with the Chipping Norton set
the Camerons are regulars. But between
Champagne and Hummingbird Bakery

cupcakes, theres plenty of fun to be
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND FESTIVALS
had. Theres unicycling, yoga, bhangra

dancing and thats just in the kids area. It
pays to be under 10 here. Music strikes a
crowd-pleasing chord. Van Morrison and
Status Quo have headlined in the past,
and Simple Minds take the stage at Great
Tew Park this year. Its easy to dip in and
out of (as many locals do), although
overnight options reect the smart crowd,
with yurts and bell tents. Plus, theres a disco
shed for dad dancing, plenty of space for
picnics and Pimms, Morris dancers and a
tea tent: all the ingredients for a glorious
weekend and an idyllic slice of Englishness.
46 July (www.cornburyfestival.com;
weekend ticket 170, not including camping)
Best for culture lovers
OPTIMUS PRIMAVERA
SOUND Porto, Portugal
It may be the younger, smaller sister of
Barcelonas popular Primavera Sound,
but Optimus Primavera, held a week later
in Portos seaside Parque da Cidade, has
a charm all of its own. The National and
Neutral Milk Hotel top this years bill,
but its a festival that doesnt end when
the music stops. Instead, the party spills
into the citys historic centre, a 20-minute
beach walk away, into baroque bars on
cobbled streets. There are plenty of quirky
landmarks to discover when wandering
through Porto: its railway bridge designed
by Eiffel; the Lello bookshop, opened in
1906; the grassy banks of the Douro

River anked by Art Deco cafs and
pop-up shops. For festival thrills with the
relaxed feel of a civilised European
weekend break, theres no beating it.
57 June (www.optimusprimaverasound.
com; weekend ticket about 85)
Best for a laid-back groove
SOUNDWAVE
Croatia
Croatia has fast become Europes festival
hotspot. Among the standouts are the
Garden Festival, the granddaddy of them
all; Stop Making Sense, ve days of jazz
and reggae beats; and buzzy newcomers
For (on Hvar) and Unknown (near the
old town of Rovinj), which appeal to
varied tastes. If you pick just one, make
it Soundwave. Its small and perfectly
curated, with an appealingly snug capacity
of 3,000. Held on the same site as the
Garden Festival, a pretty cove on the
Dalmatian coast, but with a more low-key
vibe, this beachside bash has plenty to
offer: cheap drinks, moonlit soirees, boat
parties galore. With an underground
blend of soul, reggae, pop and rap acts, its
spread over ve days, so theres plenty of
time for swimming and lounging under
pine trees against the chilled soundtrack.
1721 July (www.soundwavecroatia.com;
weekend ticket 125, not including
accommodation)
Best for Nordic flavour
OYA Oslo, Norway

An army of rubbish collectors, almost zero
queuing, tasty organic food and a rich
mix of families and Scandi hipsters: Oya
is a dream of a festival. This year the
action moves to a new home at Tyen
Park where stages are sandwiched between
the Munch museum (see The Scream
between bands), botanical gardens and an
outdoor swimming pool. International
names (Outkast and Queens of the Stone
Age) share the billing with top local
talent (see the Norwegian Nick Drake
Thomas Dybdahl and home-spun disco
king Todd Terje) and a night-time line-up
takes over the citys clubs. Oslos artsy
neighbourhood Grnerlkka is less than
a 15-minute walk away and is lled with

taxidermy at Festival No 6;
Winterwell, Dorset; a food truck
at Wilderness; a caf on wheels;
festival-goers at twilight
CORSICA IS WHERE THE

SUMMER MIGRATION
KICKS OFF: IN A
BEAUTIFUL SETTING
FULL OF BEAUTIFUL
PEOPLE
Calvi, Campo di Fiori (www.locationcampodiori.com) rents charming

apartments minutes from the sea.
510 July (www.calviontherocks.com;
ve-day ticket about 140)
vintage shops, microbrewery bars, craft

coffee houses and plenty of Airbnb listings.
59 August (www.oyafestivalen.com;
ve-day ticket about 240)
Best for wow-factor location
Best for endless sunshine
PHOTOGRAPHS: VENETIA DEARDON; DANNY NORTH
MELT! Ferropolis, Germany

Past sunower meadows and wind farms,
Melt! takes place at an abandoned mine
on a peninsula surrounded by a lake. The
laser light shows, giant caterpillars and
cranes make it feel like youve stumbled
onto the set of Blade Runner. Music-wise,
it blends techno, electronic, hip-hop and
indie rock on its beachfront stages and
attracts a mixed crowd of rockers and
ravers. Innovative accomodation includes
the MiXery Beds on Wheels Hotel train,
transporting festival-goers from Berlin,
Cologne or Munich aboard sleeper
carriages with food, a DJ and a bar. Once
at the site, the train morphs into a hotel;
from there, you can go swimming in the
lake, hang out in the comfy bar, take to the
roulette tables, or hit the endless parties.
1820 July (www.meltfestival.de; weekend
camping ticket 105)
Best for a party by the Med
CALVI ON THE ROCKS

Corsica, France
The Parisian in-crowds summer migration
kicks off here: a beautiful festival in a
ALL TOMORROWS
PARTIES Iceland
beautiful setting full of beautiful people.

Days are spent drinking ros and dancing
to DJs. The VIP area is a vintage yacht
moored just offshore. After dark the
action moves to the open-air Thtre
de Verdure (at the foot of the citadel,
on the rocks by the sea) where bands
and electro acts play; past acts have
included Bjrk and Hot Chip. The line
easily blurs between festival and holiday.
Pick up supplies at the covered food
market, with its Greek-temple-style
columns, and make a day trip to the beaches
of LIle-Rousse along the coast. Back in
Ten degrees in July might not sound like

ideal festival weather, but this isnt an
average tents-in-a-eld jamboree. For
starters, its in a former NATO airbase; the
main stage a hangar that housed bombers,
the horizon punctuated by a radar dome
and steam from nearby geothermal power
plants. The otherworldly atmosphere is
augmented by the fact that the sun barely
sets. Its disorienting at rst, but you quickly
adapt. ATP has always had a quirky
reputation (it has held festivals in a Pontins
holiday camp), and this is no exception.
Theres a book club, pop quiz and lms
chosen by the bands. Portishead and Interpol
headline, but the local acts are worth
seeing too. Iceland is one of the best
places for a party: just dont forget a jacket.
1012 July (www.atpfestival.com; weekend
ticket about 90)
REPORTS FROM Britt Collins,

Alex Fenton-Thomas, Thomas Frost, Duncan
Geere, Al Horner, Rooksana Hossenally,
Fiona Kerr, Louis de Rohan, Alex Tieghi-Walker
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP
The Brazilian citys one-time hippy hub has grown smart new shoots, with innovative galleries,
WORDS TAMARA MICNER
Clockwise from above: retro

books in O Velho Livreiro;
a living wall in concept store
Farm on Rua Harmonia;
Vila Madalenas bright houses;
O Velho Livreiro; a quirky street
seat; Alto da Harmonia bar;
Retro 63 vintage shop
Vila Madalena, So Paulo

bars and boutiques drawing a sophisticated young crowd to its graffiti-daubed streets
DRINK
Mercearia So Pedro is
old-school Vila Madalena,
truly bohemian, a little bit
grungy, a honeypot for
artists, writers and hipsters.
Browse the Borges and
Ribeiro paperbacks, then
order a bucket of Bohemia
beers and hot pastel de
queijo on the packed
outside deck. On week
nights you might see an
indie lm, catch a book
launch or nd authors
such as Xico S propped
up at the bar, irting
behind his dark glasses.
Rua Rodsia 34 (+55 11
3815 7200; www.facebook.
com/saopedromercearia)
PHOTOGRAPHS: FLORENCE DEAU; MAIRA FRIDMAN;

PAULO FRIDMAN; ANDRE VIEIRA
Cool young things

have been ocking to
Emprio Sagarana for
craft beer and cachaa
since it opened a year ago.
With a wagon-wheel
chandelier and barrels for
chairs, the main draws are
the 600 cachaas (try the
Farrista) and 150 beers,
including the Rogue Dead
Guy Ale and Rodenbach
Caractre Rouge. Pair them
with dishes of smoked
tilapia and canastra cheese
with pink peppercorns.
Rua Aspicuelta 271 (+55

11 3031 0816; www.
emporiosagarana.com.br)
SEE
The concrete walls of
the trailblazing gallery,
shop and event space
Espao Arter showcase
cutting-edge South
American street art, with
an upstairs container for
installations and inventive
jewellery on display at
the back. Sip a mini Mot
& Chandon through a
straw and munch on an
empanada while local
rapper Criolo Doido
blasts from the speakers.
Rua Harmonia 797 (+55
11 3926 2512; www.
espacoarter.com.br)
SHOP
Estela and Pablo Peinado
specialise in ne paper
and well-bound books at
O Velho Livreiro. Inside
their egg-yolk-coloured
house are notebooks
designed by Christian
Lacroix and Pablo himself,
as well as handmade
diaries and photo albums.
The workshop runs
brilliant bespoke stationery
and bookbinding courses.
11 2478 8849; www.
ovelholivreiro.com)
An exposed-brickwalled boutique, with bare
light bulbs strung from
the ceiling and a cute,
pebbled courtyard, Anb
has rails and armoires full
of pretty oral prints. The
breezy tops, trousers and
dresses (and shorts and
shirts for men) are made
from chita, the lightweight
Brazilian cotton thats
perfect for beachwear,
so its worth coming here
if youre heading on to
Floripas coast. Rua
Harmonia 223 (+55 11
2309 7609)
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP Vila Madalena, So Paulo
EAT
St Etienne is the spot for
a lazy brunch. On the
shaded terrace, under
the whirr of lined-up
fans, Paulistas tuck into
omelettes and beirutes
(pitta-bread sandwiches
with cheese, beef and
fried eggs). Scan the
pastry counters inside for
takeaway treats: tiny,
still-warm po de queijo
buns and passion-fruit
suco (juice). Rua Harmonia
699 (+55 11 3819 2578;
www.santaetienne.com.br).
About 20 for two
At caf/shop L da
Venda the emphasis
is on handmade and
home-made. Join locals
for an alfresco Saturday
lunch of picadinho (stew)
with let mignon, banana
empanada and farofa
(cassava our), washed
down with a zzy tutti-frutti
Tubana, and afterwards
look at the artisan crockery,
linens and scarves inside.
Their other branch is in the
vast Shopping JK Iguatemi

mall. Rua Harmonia 161
(+55 11 3037 7702;
www.ladavenda.com.br).
About 30 for two
Brazilian actress Karina
Bacchiand designer
Patricia Bonaldi are
regulars at pastel-coloured
patisserieLe Jardin
Secret for itsphotogenic
sweetsbedecked with
ower petals from France.
The popular pav de la
chef is a rose-topped,
layered cake of biscuit
crumble and vanilla
cream. It also makes
completely addictive
brigadeiros, balls of dulce
de leche and Belgian cocoa.
11 2537 3819; www.
lejardinsecret.com.br)
GROOMING
Since it opened last spring,
Terrasse Beauty Bar has
been full of chic women
getting their feelgood
x. As well as top-notch
waxing, massages and
mani/pedis, the main
attraction is the hair salon.
Treatments are preceded
by a glass of Champagne,
and the perfectly groomed
owner Marcela Rocha
oversees it all with a smile.
Rua Harmonia 252 (+55 11
4327 8723; www.terrasse
beautybar.com.br)
PHOTOGRAPHS: FLORENCE DEAU; SIMONE DIACOPULOS; NEWTON SANTOS/HYPE/FOLHAPRESS; ANDRE VIEIRA
Clockwise from left:

a colourful street in
Vila Madalena; a window
display; prints and
homeware in Espao
Arter; stew at L da
Venda caf; Anb shop
10 hours sun protection with just one application

Put it on in the morning. Enjoy your day. Its that simple. P20 dries quickly to give you
and your family 10 hours of proven sun protection even after frequent swimming
throughout the day. Choose from the original SPF20 clear lotion or the new range
of SPFs 15, 30 or 50+ in a handy clear spray. Stay safe in the sun with P20.
For further information and to nd stockists of P20 visit www.p20.co.uk and join us at
www.facebook.com/p20sun
One application lasts 10 hours Very water resistant
Active after 15 minutes Easy to apply No added preservatives
The recommended retail price of P20 is 13.29 (100ml) and 24.49 (200ml). Distributed in the UK by Godrej Consumer Products (UK) Ltd.
WHERE TO STAY
Reviews of the month in Los Angeles Paris Cheltenham Plus Hilary Swank
PHOTOGRAPHS: JESSICA SAMPLE
EDITED BY PETER BROWNE
REVIVAL OF THE FITTEST

EXCLUSIVE This Ace is at the heart of Downtown LAs comeback, says Alix Sharkey
When i first moved to LA from
Brooklyn, I rarely quit the palm-lined
avenues of Silver Lake, Los Feliz and
Hollywood. Downtowns steel towers,
shimmering above the smog two
miles south, held little interest. But

one day I found myself on Broadway,
gazing up at its Deco, beaux-arts and
Spanish-baroque delights, exhilarated
by the grit and trafc, my pulse in
sync with the citys business heart. As

darkness fell, the streets came alive
with people howling, laughing and
running in deance of Dont walk
signs. Nearby Skid Row home
WHERE TO STAY
PHOTOGRAPHS: JESSICA SAMPLE
of the homeless, redoubt of the

addicted lent a whiff of lunacy, but there
was something else. It felt like fun.
How ironic that a city synonymous with
car travel was born from public transport.
Early-20th-century Los Angeles was the
end of the line, the southern California
terminus for transcontinental railway lines,
dumping hordes of young hopefuls from
the USAs East and Midwest, eager to seek
their fortunes in sunnier climes.
As the citys nancial, manufacturing
and entertainment industries boomed, so
did its privately owned trains, buses and
trolley cars, built expressly by real estate
speculators to fuel property prices. By
the mid-1920s, with 1,100 miles of track
branching from Downtown through
Hollywood, San Pedro and Santa Monica,
Pacic Electric was the worlds largest,
most efcient mass-transit system.
This was Downtowns golden age: banks
boomed on Spring Street, department
stores and jewellers welcomed the afuent
and a dozen movie palaces huge, ornate
cinemas with lavish interiors lined the
neon-drenched sidewalks of Broadway,
offering working stiffs a taste of exotica.
The City of Angels took ight. By 1940
more than 105,000 Angelenos lived within
a mile of Downtowns centre at 7th Street
and Broadway, a population density to
match New York City.
But after World War II, the tumescent
auto industry and LAs federally funded
freeway system drove white ight as the
middle classes ed to suburban Glendale,
Burbank, Alhambra and Pasadena.
Bunker Hill, Downtowns northerly
enclave of Victorian houses, became
riddled with ophouses and seedy bars.
Further west, the car-friendly ofce
towers and commercial developments of
Mid-Wilshire and Century City siphoned
off business, and the citys transit system
withered and died, its streetcar tracks
torn up to make way for automobiles.
Desperate to staunch the bleeding, the
city razed Bunker Hill, driving out its last
residents. Busy sidewalks were replaced
with faceless avenues, apartment hotels
lost out to soulless skyscraper ofces and
multi-level car parks in the International
Style, derived from Le Corbusiers
grotesque towers-in-a-park concept. By
Clockwise from bottom left: the exterior of the

Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles; a theatre in
the hotel; the terrace of LA Chapter restaurant;
Upstairs rooftop bar; a bedroom; LA Chapter;
the terrace and counter at Upstairs; gravlax
in the restaurant. Previous page, the lobby
1998, Downtowns 45,000 residents were

mostly working-class Hispanics; only the
constant ow of Spanish-language lms
and plays ensured that so many historic
movie palaces survived intact.
But in 1999, after decades of neglect, a
re-zoning ordinance ignited Downtowns
revival, allowing developers to convert
ofce buildings into loft apartments. Five
years later, the well-heeled professionals
were back and shops and businesses
returned to the citys rebranded Historic
Core, its 22-block golden-age centre.
On the cores southern edge stands a
12-storey Spanish Gothic confection, built
in 1927 so that Charlie Chaplin, Mary
Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and DW
Grifth could premiere their maverick
studios lms. With its marble lobby,
gilt interior, cod-medieval murals and
vaulted auditorium ceiling covered in
WITH AN ART-ROCK
SOUNDTRACK AND LOTS
OF COMEDY FACIAL
HAIR, YOU CAN SEE WHY
THERES RARELY AN
EMPTY CHAIR HERE
tiny mirrors, it was one of the greatest
movie palaces ever constructed. To reduce
overheads, the United Artists (as they
styled themselves) crowned it with an
ofce block they leased to Texaco oil.
This jazz-era jewel has been reborn as
the 182-room Ace Hotel Downtown Los
Angeles, the latest link in the Ace chain
of hip hotels. Since it was launched in
Seattle in 1999, Ace hotels have sprung
up in Downtown Portland, Midtown
Manhattan, Palm Springs, Londons
Shoreditch and Panama City. The groups
brand identity might be termed funky
urbana: central locations with keenly
priced rooms, vintage furnishings and
street art; eccentric low- bistros serving
local food and themed cocktails; front
desks manned by laid-back staff with
neck tattoos and statement hairstyles.
The new Ace was warmly welcomed by
Angelenos, even though its opening was
overshadowed by the untimely death last
October of the groups co-founder and
public face, 47-year-old Alex Calderwood.
Among Calderwoods talents was an
ability to capture regional zeitgeist; rather
than develop a formula, he styled and
furnished each hotel individually to
reect its locale. So its surprising that
design team Commune chose a minimalist

feel and chromophobic palette for the
bedrooms at the new Ace, given that
Downtowns glory days were ooded with
colour, light and sumptuous detail. And
while my froideur towards exposed concrete,
black MDF furniture and polar-white tiles
might be a personal failing, theres simply
no excuse for ill-conceived and inadequate
kitchenette lighting. And those Noguchi
paper lanterns? They looked cheap to me
as an art student, and still do.
Still, despite the spartan aesthetic of the
Ace Suites not a suite by any conventional
denition and devoid of a single artwork
they have huge windows and excellent
air-conditioning, a perfectly tuned Martin
acoustic guitar on a corner stand and a
thick Pendleton wool blanket on the bed:
a denite boon on a windswept rainy night.
I suspect the Aces youngish target
clientele are less concerned with traditional
boutique-hotel comforts and keener on
stylish common spaces. If so, theyll be
delighted. The groundoor LA Chapter
restaurant serves modern American
comfort food: roasted black cod; rabbit
rag; braised lamb. The drinks menu
includes cocktails such as the aromatic
Gaslight (rye whiskey, cardamom syrup
and sweet-cherry-bark bitters) and local
craft porters and IPAs. Factor in a vintage
art-rock soundtrack, Stumptown coffee
and lots of comedy facial hair, and
you can see why theres rarely an empty
chair among its crowded, noisy tables.
The rooftop Upstairs bar has a hot-tubsized dipping pool surrounded by stout
sunloungers, Alma Allen found-timber
furniture and a skyline vista dominated
by the Eastern Columbia Building, a
turquoise Deco treasure on the next block.
And the location is right in the mix,
with a clutch of equally hip boutiques
(Acne Studios, Apolis, Guerilla Atelier)
and restaurants (Alma, Bco Mercat,
Maccheroni Republic) in the surrounding
area. Sure, youd best avoid those iffy
characters scufing along 5th Street
between Skid Row and Pershing Square
all day and night, but to sample the zesty
tang of Downtowns renaissance and
witness the rebirth of a great historic
inner city, Ace is the place.
ACE HOTEL DOWNTOWN

LOS ANGELES
929 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS
ANGELES, CALIFORNIA (+1 213
623 3233; WWW.ACEHOTEL.COM).
DOUBLES FROM ABOUT 200
WHERE TO STAY
BED-HOPPING WITH HILARY SWANK

The two-time Oscar winner tells Francesca Babb which hotels get her million-dollar vote
AMANGANI,
WYOMING
Ive been here three times
because I love skiing and
Ive also been to Aman hotels
in Bali and Turks and Caicos.
They are all great and run
similarly, so you know what
to expect. Theres something
comforting in that: when
youre spending money, you
want it all to come together.
www.amanresorts.com.
Doubles from about 525
WE GOT LOST IN
THE MALDIVES,
BUT IT DIDNT
MATTER AS WE
DIDNT HAVE TO BE
ANYWHERE
This is the hotel featured in Lost in

Translation, and its crazy spectacular. A
big, corporate place like this is not my
thing at all, so it speaks really highly of
the staff and Japanese culture that its
up there as one of my most memorable
hotel experiences. Those views will stay
in my head permanently. www.tokyo.
park.hyatt.com. Doubles from about 370
FOUR SEASONS RESORT
SONEVA FUSHI, THE MALDIVES
Staying here felt like Id stepped back

in time, and its so rare to experience
that any more. Our days were spent
lounging, then playing tennis and going
on bike rides. Im a big foodie and
everything was exquisite: Japanese,
Mexican, Italian, elixirs and fruit juices.
It really hit the spot. www.soneva.com.
Villas from about 595
CROSBY STREET HOTEL,
NEW YORK
I have an apartment in New York, but this
place almost makes me want to sell it, or at
least remodel. I like the fact that each room
is decorated differently: it feels more like
a home. SoHo is a little too crowded for
me, but being on Crosby Street, with
its cobbled stones, is great. And theyre
super dog-friendly. www.rmdale
hotels.com. Doubles from about 365
PHOTOGRAPHS: ROBERT ERDMANN/AUGUST; DAN KULLBERG
HUALALAI, HAWAII
I adore Hawaii, but the hotels can be
really hit-and-miss as I dont like high-rise
places; the key for me is a boutiquey
style. Hualalai is borderline too big, but
the way it is designed, so spread out, it
doesnt seem like a large hotel at all. www.
fourseasons.com. Doubles from about 475
NO THANKS!
rt Lanai at
ur Seasons Reso
I used to love Fo
ld dolphins
wi
e
ar
e
er
aii th
Manele Bay, Haw
nt back
we
I
bay. But when
that swim in the
I left
ed
nt
oi
pp
was so disa
after 10 years, I
d
an
s really run-down
right away. It wa
bered.
em
m
re
I
l
te
ho
nothing like the
PARK HYATT TOKYO
VIEW FROM THE DOME SUITE TERRACE. ONE OF

SIX SIGNATURE SUITES AT CAF ROYAL HOTEL
SUITE VIEW
*%!&'$%'&%"!&!'&$!$!$!&"!""!"!%$&-"+"&&'!$(
$+"##!%()%""!"!!#$"&'$%&!&"
&%#"'%%'&%" !& "'$
"&#%&)&&!&% #&+"&"+#$%"!'&$%)+%)&!!&)!%!
'.'$$$$%'%&%$" &$#"$&&"-"+"&"!!&&$&
ALL SUITES AT CAF ROYAL HOTEL INCLUDE:

Return airport chaueured car service*,'$!&$+!, !%$%&,
"&&" #!,$%"!'&$
+44 (0)20 7406 3322
HOTELCAFEROYAL.COM
BOOKING CODE *L06$
CAF ROYAL HOTEL, 68 REGENT STREET, LONDON W1B 4DY

+44 (0)20 7406 3322 RESERVATIONS@HOTELCAFEROYAL.COM
HOTELCAFEROYAL.COM
* Return airport chauffeured car service for Regent Suites and above and one way for Junior, Glasshouse and Westminster Suites
WHERE TO STAY
STYLISH AND AFFORDABLE
PARIS HOTELS
Five offbeat retreats at the heart of the Right Bank. By Lindsey Tramuta
FABULOUS FORMER FACTORY
HOTEL FABRIC
11TH ARRONDISSEMENT
This handsome, 33-room hotel occupies a
revamped factory in Oberkampf-Mnilmontant,
once a metalworking area and now a foodie hot
spot. The building has plenty of original industrial
features, including cast-iron columns and large
windows, but designers Agns Louboutin and
Patrice Henry, known for their ea-market nds,
have updated the look. Theres a mix of furniture
styles in the lobby Eames chairs, a chestereld
sofa, antique travelling trunks used as side tables
and the breakfast room is dominated by a large
star illuminated with exposed light bulbs (its from
Recycle, a local vintage shop). The crowd is just
as eclectic: young couples and hip European
families tucking into croissants and artisanal jams
at breakfast, or helping themselves to drinks from
the honesty bar in the evening. Graphic colour
schemes pink, green and orange spice up
the bedrooms, and showers are encrusted with
starry LED lights. Theres no restaurant, and
room service is outsourced and expensive (14
for a Caesar salad) so your money is better spent
in the hotels tiny but well-run spa, which uses
all-natural potions by Les Bains de Marrakech.
www.hotelfabric.com. Doubles from about 140
WHERE TO STAY
HIP HOME FROM HOME
HOTEL PARADIS
10TH ARRONDISSEMENT
With its reputation for shady dive bars, wholesale clothing outlets
and, more recently, cool nightclubs, the 10th arrondissement
might seem like a curious place for a hotel promising Zen-like
calm. But this 38-room charmer in a converted fur shop/derelict
motel is on rue des Petites Ecuries, one of the quietest streets
in the neighbourhood. The owners enlisted designer Dorothe
Meilichzon, best known for her work on the Experimental Cocktail
Clubs in London, New York and Ibiza, to rethink the interiors,
and she came up with a mix of textbook Scandinavian minimalism
with subtle riffs on French elegance (faux carved mouldings in
the downstairs sitting room; original exposed beams in the top-oor suite, with its unparalleled
views of the Sacr Coeur). There are bespoke rugs and hounds-tooth fabric headboards in
the bedrooms, and whimsical, retro-chic wallpapers in the corridors; and although the ceilings
on the upper oors are comically low, it all adds to the feel of a cosy Parisian pied--terre.
This homely atmosphere is helped by the Kusmi tea in the rooms and tasty homemade cakes
and yogurts freely available in the breakfast bar. There is no restaurant, but the hotel is close
to plenty of good bistros, including laid-back next-door neighbour Vivant Table, and Le Richer.
www.hotelparadisparis.com. Doubles from about 90
MAD ABOUT THE MOVIES
HOTEL 123 SEBASTOPOL

2ND ARRONDISSEMENT
The lm world has been one of interior designer Philippe Maidenbergs
passions for many years, so it was hardly surprising when he was given
the task of transforming this 63-room hotel on boulevard Sbastopol
into a fantastical homage to cinema. From the outside, it looks like
any other shop on this busy street, and the lobby was indeed an oldschool perfumery, now reimagined as a classic movie-theatre entrance
with an illuminated black-and-white signboard and a deep-pile, palmleaf-embroidered red carpet that wouldnt look out of place in Cannes.
Each of the six upper oors is named after a personality in French
cinema, including prolic lm-maker Claude Lelouch, Oscar-nominated
scriptwriter and director Danile Thompson and actress Elsa Zylberstein,
all of whom have contributed to the look. In the bathrooms, black ight
cases used to transport camera equipment now serve as sink surrounds,
and scripts, storyboards, movie reels and set photographs are incorporated
into the artworks. From the upper oors (once occupied by offices)
there are superb views of the
neo-Gothic Muse des Arts
et Mtiers on rue Raumur.
Downstairs theres a sunny
conservatory bar congured
like a Hollywood lm set with
enormous spotlights, bespoke
leather directors chairs and
glamorous mirrored tables
for breakfast (an impressive
Continental spread) or cocktails
made with fresh syrups and
infusions (try the Vesper Martini).
The 20-seat screening room
shows three lms daily (requests
are encouraged) and the superhip Experimental Cocktail Club
is nearby. www.le123sebastopol.
com. Doubles from about 185
SERENITY IN THE CITY
HOTEL DU TEMPS
9TH ARRONDISSEMENT
If this charming, one-year-old boutique hotel feels
sepia-tinged, thats because designers Alix Thomsen and
Laura Leonard conceived it that way. Set back from the
noisy rue du Faubourg Poissonnire near child-friendly
Square Montholon, it has a graceful, timeworn look,
with antiques and decorative pieces including solid-wood
desk chairs, wicker stools (used as bedside tables) and
cleverly distressed mirrors from nearby curiosity shop
Archi Noire. There are 23 sparsely furnished bedrooms
with lime-washed oorboards, white walls and joyful,
tropical-print curtains and bed linens. It all feels very
bucolic, a bit like a serene summer villa. Original artworks
depicting American boxers Rocky Marciano and Sugar
Ray Robinson (by up-and-coming artist Rafael Alterio)
add to the old-school vibe, and handmade soaps in the
ivory-tiled bathrooms lend a contemporary, artisanal
touch. The pretty ground-oor sitting room and cocktail
bar is kitted out with leather booths and geometrictiled oors, and theres a low-lit basement bar with cosy
banquettes and mismatched cushions that has become
a hangout for a cool crowd of designers, musicians
and photographers; it has also been used as a venue
for private concerts by acts including Metronomy and
Breakbot. The hotel serves breakfast (fresh pastries
from local bakery Arnaud Delmontel) and teatime
madeleines and chocolate-chip cookies from pastry
supremo Christophe Michalak, but it doesnt have a
restaurant. However, staff keep an updated list of the
best places to eat within a two-block radius, including
the English-run Albion and matchbox-sized Abri.
www.hotel-du-temps.fr. Doubles from about 135
DIPPY DESIGNER MASH-UP
EDGAR HOTEL
2ND ARRONDISSEMENT
When hotelier and restaurateur Guillaume Rouget-Luchaire decided to open this
contemporary inn in the heart of the still-thriving garment district of Sentier, he
imagined the space as a restaurant with rooms, a foodie hangout for Parisian regulars
and visitors wanting to tap into the local scene. The restaurant, with its mid-century
Danish tables and chairs, vintage pendant lamps and patterned textiles, is always
busy. Style-conscious bobos (bourgeois bohemians) feast on dishes from the seafoodfocused menu dreamed up by Belgian chef Xavier Thiery (whole John Dory llets
from the Basque Country; smoked herring or razor clams a la plancha). Cocktail
acionados knock back serious drinks at the bar, including the Parisienne, a blend
of rum, St Germain and lemon juice served on the rocks. Theres a rollicking vibe late
into the night, played out against a soundtrack of 1950s jazz and the steady clink
of cocktail shakers. Upstairs, the owners family and friends were given carte blanche
to design the 13 fantasy bedrooms: Chanel designer Pascal Brault opted for a moody,
monochrome space; photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand imagined his as an African
outpost. Theres also a room with pink, green and yellow walls, another with 1930s
oak furniture, and a pine-lined cabin with 90 watercolours of treehouses. Its all a bit
bonkers, but in a good way. www.edgarparis.com. Doubles from about 155
WHERE TO STAY
library with oversized velvet armchairs.
Lunches include craysh sandwiches and
tuna tartare with sesame and avocado. The
evening menu is wholesome and hearty:
Brixham crab gratin; a marathon seafood
platter locals swear by; 17 different cuts
of steak chargrilled in a Josper oven, and
decadent extras such as garlic snails, wild
mushrooms, foie gras, roast bone marrow,
and beef-dripping or duck-fat chips.
WHO GOES THERE? Dom Joly moved
in when his house ooded last winter. And
with Cheltenham Ladies College and
Dean Close nearby, plenty of parents treat
their children to the epic high tea of warm
homemade sausage rolls (ridiculously
good), Victoria sponge and lardy cake.
Londoners appear at weekends, along
with those locals up for the fun on Friday
and Saturday nights, all fuelled by cool
music and snazzy cocktails: try Rory the
barmans Crazy Eight Swizzle. There are
plans for a members club at weekends.
WE LIKE Eating under a blue sky in the
courtyard such a rarity in England.
WE DONT LIKE For now parking is
tricky here in the town centre, but theyre
in the process of getting a hotel permit.
CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
WHAT IS IT? Somewhere new, exciting
and glamorous to stay in Cheltenham.
Right on the towns main promenade,
its like a ash of New York cool in the
Cotswolds. Exposed-brick walls, pendant
lights and a blue pool table blend in with
marble replaces, cornices, antique doors
and a wooden 1940s fridge from Brazil
(stuffed with cold meats, bread and wine).
There are framed beetles and moths, and
even a headdress from Papua New Guinea.
Sophisticated and fun, this is not just the
best new hotel in town, but the whole area.
BEHIND THE SCENES No 131 is the
latest from Sam and Georgina Pearman of
the now famous Wheatsheaf in Northleach.
Its been two years in the making. The
couple plundered artisans workshops and
reclamation yards for antiques, and much
of the lighting came from Belgium and
Holland. Theres art by Peter Blake and
David Hockney and a lot of zingy colour,
for instance in the blue French workers
jackets worn by the good-looking staff.
SLEEP The 11 beautifully proportioned

rooms all have lovely hand-knotted rugs,
antique or bespoke furniture, and huge
Hypnos beds with plump goose-down
pillows. Even the snacks are far from the
norm: dried-pear crisps, sherbert lemons
and Mr Filberts rosemary almonds.
Rooms at the front are brighter, with
views over Imperial Gardens (where lots
of festival events take place); those at
the back are quiet cocoons. Bathrooms
have double showers and 19th-century
French or modern Japanese-style baths
with a clever wooden board to rest your
head on. Unusual touches include muted
green and mustard Moroccan tiles.
EAT Crazy Eights (with a cool, fadedzinc bar) is the ofcial restaurant but
there are lots of places to eat, such as
a brilliant indoor/outdoor courtyard
with a retractable roof, and four den-like
private dining rooms, including one
hidden behind curtains made from Indian
palace blankets and another in a little
CONTACT +44 1242 822939; www.no131.

com. Doubles from 170 DAISY FINER
WHILE YOURE HERE

There are festivals (www.cheltenham
festivals.com), the famous Cheltenham
Races, fashion shops such as Foundation
in Montpellier Walk, and a Friday
farmers market. For a superb massage,
book Ayurvedic expert Kathy Moores
at Chapel Spa (+44 1242 518075).
Sudeley Castle is nearby, and Giffords
Circus (www.giffordscircus.com) tours
the area in summer. The hotels sister
pub, The Tavern, serves the best burger
in town and a great Sunday lunch.
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY
NO 131
2014 Hilton Worldwide
THE
STORIES
BEGIN
HERE
NEW YORK
CHICAGO
GRAND WAILEA
THE BOULDERS
DUBAI
ARIZONA BILTMORE
BERLIN
JERUSALEM
PUERTO RICO
SHANGHAI
AMSTERDAM
BEIJING
ORLANDO
ROME CAVALIERI
JEDDAH
KEY WEST
NAPLES
PARK CITY
PANAMA
BOCA RATON
EDINBURGH
RAS AL KHAIMAH
LA QUINTA RESORT & CLUB
TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES
THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS
WA L D O R FASTO R I A .CO M / T H E STO R I E S
WHERE TO STAY
SALLY SHALAMS GREAT BRITISH BREAKS

This month, our happy wanderer combs the coast from Kent to Suffolk to
find glorious seaside spots peppered with larger-than-life personalities
he sun is rising in a big eastern sky, gulls call
in cacophonous discord. A briny tang is
carried on a stiff maritime breeze. There is
nowhere quite like the English coast in summer. Nor
the characters I meet there. Take Jilly Sharpe, who,
after breakfast at her chic and
bohemian B&B Belvidere Place
(www.belvidereplace.co.uk; doubles
from 130) in Broadstairs,
announced I could not leave town
without visiting the local hardware
store. Really? Navigating the
narrow streets felt like a walk back
in time, and suddenly there was
H E Harrington, wrapped around a
tight corner. Its a Fifties throwback
jammed with cotton thread and
string, mops and buckets, pans and
padlocks. Expect the unexpected
at Belvidere Place: last year David
Waddington and Pablo Flack
staged a pop-up of their Hackney
diner Bistrotheque here. But eat
anytime at Wyatt & Jones (www.
wyattandjones.co.uk), overlooking
the towns horseshoe bay, and chill out over a beer
at The Chapel (www.thechapel-broadstairs.com).
Two miles along the coast, in a row of Regency
townhouses on Ramsgates seafront, is The Royal
Harbour Hotel (www.royalharbourhotel.co.uk;
doubles from 130), owned by the irrepressible James
Thomas. He worked at The Savoy (his tale of the
Russian hat and Baroness Thatcher is unrivalled), then
joined Firmdale Hotels before pinning his colours to
the coastal mast. He likes people. He even likes
their kids. His hotel is comfortable and simple:
no spa, no kids club and no tense vibe
when your children start chucking sh
goujons in the restaurant or ddling with the
PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES/4 CORNERS IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES
solitaire. For this summer, he has dreamed up shoreline

family forages (oysters, samphire and a beach
barbie), with a gastronomically inclined local geologist
known as the Rock Doc. Thomass enthusiasm for
these voyages of discovery is almost eclipsed by his
anticipation of summer 2015, the bicentenary of the
Battle of Waterloo. You could do a lot worse than
a diet of oysters and military history.
There is something special about the lengthening
days in Suffolk, when blue fades to grey and the sharp
chill of evening swiftly asserts itself. I love to walk
north along Aldeburghs beach after an afternoon
spent in Strand Gallery (www.strandgallery.co.uk)
admiring its collection of vintage Scandinavian glass
and in Lawsons deli (www.lawsonsdelicatessen.co.uk)
picking up pork pies and fruit tarts for tea. Now you
can also gild your holiday wardrobe at Collen and
Clare (www.collenandclare.com), the Southwold
institution thats opened here. Renting a beach house
(www.living-architecture.co.uk; www.bestofsuffolk.
co.uk) means I can enjoy crunching home on the
shingle, stopping to watch Maggi Hamblings Scallop
sculpture change colour in the deepening dusk.
At the start of my long
journey home to Somerset,
I stop at Emmetts deli (www.
emmettsham.co.uk) in Peasenhall
for incredible smoked ham. Its
owned by James Thomass
brother, Mark. Which explains
why the breakfast at The Royal
Harbour tastes so good. Its
the sort of happy coincidence
that can only occur on a small
island such as ours.
Morning: Go trekking in Tamerza

Evening: Relax in the spa in Tozeur
free to live it all
www.cometotunisia.co.uk
A LETTER FROM
They may not look like much, but scrap vendors rickety old trolleys attract a lot of attention
in a city built on nostalgia, says Malika Browne. Illustration by Laura Carlin
e was pushing his
handcart up the steep
hill in front of me,
pausing every few
yards to catch his breath, clear his
throat and call hoarsely: Hurdac!
Hurdac! His cart had the same
word, meaning scrap-iron man,
crudely painted on its side, next
to his mobile-phone number.
I was on my way to a meeting,
but quickened my pace to see
what he had to offer. The random
assortment of objects that can
be found on these ubiquitous
three-wheeled wooden carts, with
their handbrake made of a bent
reinforcing rod, remind me of the
childrens game where various
unassociated items are memorised,
then recalled when a cloth has
been draped over them. Many years
ago, I bought a 1930s clock in a
walnut case with a red crescent
on the tip of its sweeping second
hand, from a hurdac who had
a cart piled high with them; the
German school down the road
had decided to update its old
classroom furniture.
On an average day I might
spot a vacuum-cleaner tube, an oil
painting, a broken ofce chair, a
freezer, a red leatherette restaurant
bench and several rusty biscuit tins
shouting greetings from Ephesus.
All these objects would be carted
off to the hurdac yard to be sorted,
taken apart and resold for parts.
Todays harvest included a chipped
spongeware plate, an electric kettle
and this was intriguing a small,
white, wooden medicine cabinet
with a crude tin cross and a dome
nailed to the top.
Mustering all the nonchalance I
could, I asked how much he wanted
for the medicine cabinet. ok eski
[its very old], he warned me, adding
Its from a Rum family to imply

rarity value (Turks still call Greeks
Romans, a hangover from when
the Byzantine Empire was known
simply as the Roman Empire).
He named his price: 100 Turkish
lira (about 30). I declined.
I asked him if he was a hurdac
or an eskici, a collector and re-seller
of old things. Istanbuls recent
discovery of marketable nostalgia
has revived the run-down Beyoglu
neighbourhood, but it means that
there is a ne line between the
two occupations. The writer Orhan
Pamuks Museum of Innocence
in ukurcuma, which displays and
preserves everyday objects from
a fast-disappearing way of Istanbul
life, is the areas nostalgia HQ.
Junk shops that always existed
around it now call themselves
vintage boutiques and will try to
Istanbul, despite its many hills,

is served by these three-wheeled
trolleys. Many offer simits (round,
sesame-studded bread rolls), while
in winter others sell a thick, white
Ottoman drink called sahlep, made
from wild-orchid root. Even the
most elegant parts of town are
visited by hurdacs because even
rich people need to get rid of things,
and there are no charity shops.
That evening, I walked down the
hill past vanity-project art galleries
and shops selling dead womens
fur coats and crocodile handbags.
An axe was stuck halfway up the
wall of one gallery, with a name
and price tag below it. The acrid
smell of lignite signalled that I was
nearing the small Anatolian village,
seemingly overlooked by time and
developers, near my at in the
centre of Istanbul, metres away
The dealer gestured at the cabinet, and I felt

a familiar acquisitive pang as I calculated
how it would t into my life and my at
sell anything, it seems, as long as it
is battered or dusty.
Twenty minutes later, I made it to
my appointment at a graphic-design
agency in ukurcuma. By chance,
the same hurdac was in the street
outside, chatting to a customer who
was examining a lthy enamel milk
churn. He looked delighted to see
me, if slightly incongruous in this
bohemian part of town, surrounded
by hipsters clad in Japanese denim
and sporting better moustaches
than his own. He gestured towards
the cabinet, which had, in a different
postcode, been reduced in price.
I felt a familiar acquisitive pang
as I calculated how it would t into
my life and my at, but concluded
that I really had no use for it.
from the shiny new tram and a

busy shopping street. A sleeping
dog lay across the entrance to the
hurdac yard, which was littered
with broken lamps and old fridges.
Chickens pecked about among
the forest of wires; children were
warming themselves around a re
in an old olive-oil tin.
The hurdac was busy in the far
corner of the yard, sanding down
the medicine cabinet. The tin cross
lay on a pile of sawdust at his feet.
He had clearly had no luck selling
it and thought it might have more
success as a secular object. Now
that its only distinguishing feature
had been removed, it was just a
wooden box. I found it remarkably
easy to walk past.
STYLE FILE
BY FIONA LINTOTT
PLUS Beauty Jewellery Mens & The scene
Callum
I PRESENT TO YOU...Millie Mc
LONDON-BASED ARTIST
Serendipitously, Millies
neon work combines this
summers biggest trends
of bright trainers
and feathered headgear
and is fast attracting
a savvy following
Carnivals, festivals, the circus and folk

imagery have given me lots of ideas
for my linocuts. Other elements such
as old-fashioned gypsy caravans,
crazily hand-painted Pakistani buses
and origami have also worked
their way onto the paper. I love
dressing things up. The idea for the
headdresses comes in part from
some of the fantastic plumages,
colours and markings of the birds
themselves: quetzals, kingshers,
peacocks, storks and pink cockatoos.
That, mixed with the whimsy,
amboyance and fun of the fair.
The Danum Valley rainforest in Borneo

is awesome. The scale and sounds
are so otherworldly, the colours so
vibrant. Its absolutely my favourite place.
I came back from there desperate to
make jungle paintings. My rst linocut
was of an orang-utan. Gauds Barcelona
is amazing, I love the San Marco Museum
in Florence and there is some great
street art in Buenos Aires. In the UK my
favourite galleries are at The Grant
Museum of Zoology and the Natural
History Museum. Im going to Catalonia
in July to visit Dalis house in Cadaqus,
weve planned a big family villa holiday
in Andaluca, and in November Im
going to the Pushkar Camel Fair, which
Ive wanted to do for years, followed by
touring a bit more of Rajasthan.
ON ARTISTS
ON FUTURE PROJECTS
Most of the work I like has an illustrative

feel: Karen Knorr, Olaf Hajek, Sarah
Young, Emily Sutton and Anna-Wili
Higheld. If I could own any piece of
art, Id commission the worlds greatest
treehouse made by a wonderful cabinet
maker called David Watson. It would be
fully habitable and the outside would
be painted as the Kings Staircase in
Kensington Palace, with all my family and
friends looking out over the balconies.
I want to do more surface design work:

fabrics and wallpaper. But Id also love
to make site-specic murals, ideally in
parks and playgrounds. Although,
in the meantime maybe it would be
cool to project some of the bolder
linocuts onto buildings, perhaps
Somerset House. Right now Im
making Rousseau-inspired canvases,
with beautifully adorned animals.
www.milliemccallum.co.uk
ON INSPIRATION
Fionas must-have: Cire Trudon candles

I usually dont have much time for scented candles, but these are on another level. Cire
Trudon has collaborated with designer Giambattista Valli to create the limited-edition Rose
Poivre. The scent of tangerine, Madagascan pepper and rose means Ill be in the queue
along with everyone else. 65, exclusively at www.net-a-porter.com and www.ciretrudon.com
ILLUSTRATION: HANNAH GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHS:

MICHAEL BEAUPLET; ADAM LAWRENCE; SUDHIR PITHWA
ON TRAVEL
SPA WATCH 68 Champs-Elyses

This is not just an address, it is the original
and recently revamped Parisian home of
French beauty pros Guerlain, and as far as
spas go, it is off the chart. These are the
people who invented bronzer, after all;
they know intuitively what women want.
Expect high ceilings, marble and deeply
uffy beds. The day-spa experience is
discreetly recreated here, even my shoes
were carried off in their own basket as if
they were headed for relaxation, too. Theres
no need to book a specic treatment, just
choose a time and they will prescribe what
is best for your skin when you arrive.
Im back from...Namibia
It took 28 hours each way, six ights and one uncomfortable
landing on a so-called airstrip but was worth every minute to reach
Okahirongo Elephant Lodge. Located in the middle of
the desert, it is only a short, bumpy drive from the home of the
nomadic Himba tribe and a few hours from the Skeleton
Coast. We spent a week spellbound by our surroundings: the vast
chameleon-like sky; the open plains broken up by herds of zebra
and lone giraffes. And at night, in total darkness, the talk of
lions made us feel a bit unnerved. Isolated and a little scorched by
the intense heat, Okahirongo is about adventure and adrenalin.
Africa Travel (www.africatravel.com) can arrange trips to Okahirongo
Trend alert: boutique gyms

A new arrival from the New York health scene, where niche
places such as Ballet Beautiful, left, are a hit, the boutique gym
is taking on the social status of a private-members club. Its no
longer enough to have tried the latest tness fads, from dance
to cycling and all manner of yogic practices. You need to have
your eye on the growing number of independent gyms that take
their interior design and detox-caf culture as seriously as their
core work. Check out Psycle London (www.psyclelondon.com),
below, and The Library (www.thelibrarygym.com), right.
STYLE FILE
Which beauty products do you
use courtside?
I always wear Supergoop sunscreen with

SPF30 and 50 as Im outside all day. I put
it on as soon as I wake up and then just top
it up. I carry a lip balm with me, too.
Do you like to visit spas while

youre travelling?
Any spa where you can unwind is good with me.

I like the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica and
the Rosewood Spa in Mayakoba, Mexico. And
all the Aman properties have exquisite spas.
Do you have a favourite spa

treatment?
I love them all!
It changes depending
on whether Im in a
tournament or not. I
mix it up with cardio,
conditioning and core
exercises. Working on
small muscle strength
and footwork is key
for me. When I need
to get going, whether
its starting my day
or working out, I play
U2s Where the
Streets Have No
Name. It reminds me
of an incredible concert
I went to in LA.
Sunscreen Mist
SPF50, 18.50,
Supergoop! at
SpaceNK (www.
spacenk.com).
38C mascara,
23, Sensai at
Harrods (www.
harrods.com)
MY MOTHER MAKES
ME BORSCHT
TOPPED WITH SOUR
CREAM. ITS THE
RUSSIAN KETCHUP
BEAUTY KIT: MARIA SHARAPOVA ON HER TRAVELS

Any great beauty nds?
I havent discovered any specic beauty brands

while travelling, but over the years Ive enjoyed
soaking up the fashion in different parts of the
world, from street style to the way girls wear
their hair. Hong Kong is like an Asian New York
City. Theres always some new place to shop.
Do you ever detox?
I always eat a healthy, balanced

diet with moderation in things
I like to indulge in, such as my
Sugarpova candy. And when
youre abroad so often, its nice
to have a home-cooked meal.
Do you wear make-up

when you travel?
I keep it simple. My daily routine

is to use Declor Hydra Floral
moisturiser. I wear Sensai mascara
and I love all Chanels lip colours.
How do you relax and switch off

from tennis?
Laughing with friends and family is the best

way for me to unwind. We cook together and sit
down for a lovely feast, losing track of time and,
once in a while, singing karaoke. It reminds me
of the family meals we used to have in Russia,
which always lasted for hours. Its a
tradition that I miss.
Your health advice?
Drink lots of water. I consume

Evian by the case.
Bain Olo-Relax
shampoo, 17,
Krastase (www.
lookfantastic.com).
Hydra Floral
cream, 39.50,
Declor (www.
decleor.co.uk)
Lvres
Scintillantes
Glossimer in
Hello, Sexy and
Sunny, 21,
Chanel (+44 20
7493 3836)
How do you
protect
your hair in
the sun?
I live in my
Nike visor or my
Sugarpova hat and
I use Krastase
hair-care products. Adir
Abergel is my hair stylist. Weve been working
together for the last 10 years.
Do you play any other sports?
Tennis is pretty much all I have time for.
PHOTOGRAPH: MICHAEL COLE
What is your daily

tness routine?
STE ALING THE SHOW.

After midnight, near Rosewood London
A S E N S E O F P L AC E . RO S E WO O D L O N D O N N OW O P E N .
+44 20 7781 8888
| london.reservations@rosewoodhotels.com | rosewoodhotels.com
STYLE FILE
EMPIRE STATE OF MIND
Jessica Diamond travels to New York City to explore the

marble-clad home of Tiffany & Co, the rock-steady jeweller whose influence has spread worldwide
ELECTRIC AVENUE
Tiffany & Co is a shop: it sells things, mainly jewellery but also
other items including china and leather goods and perfume.
And yet, as occasionally brands do, it has become bigger than
the sum of its parts, largely due to its continuous cultural
presence, like a gentle background hum in many peoples lives.
Tiffany is also a colour, an instantly recognisable beribboned
box, a book (and, of course, lm), a song and for many

rst-time jewellery buyers or receivers a rite of passage. A
new boutique has just opened in Moscow, with another due
to launch on the Champs-Elyses in Paris this month, but
the original Fifth Avenue agship is still the best and so easy
to spend a few hours getting lost in. Here are the highlights.
No one can fail to

spot the Tiffany
Diamond, housed
in its showcase/
safe on the main
oor, all 128.54
carats of yellow
stone, pictured left
actual size. Bought by Charles Lewis
Tiffany in 1877 from the Kimberley
Mine in South Africa, it weighed 287
carats in the rough and was cut for
brilliance. Only two people have ever
worn it: Mrs Sheldon Whitehouse
at the 1957 Tiffany Ball and Audrey
Hepburn, in a 1960s setting, for
Breakfast at Tiffanys publicity shots.
TEAM AMERICA
Look out for the wheat-sheaf motif picked out in stainless
steel around the front doors, carved into marble and
depicted on screens and banisters throughout the stores
interior. It represents the American Mid West landscape,
and Tiffany has a history of sourcing native gems:
tourmalines from Maine, sapphires from Montana,
Mississippi River pearls and kunzite from California.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAIN BENAINOUS/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY

OF THE TIFFANY & CO ARCHIVES; ALICE GAO; GETTY IMAGES/NOAM GALAI
TOP OF THE
ROCKS
MADE IN
MANHATTAN
If youre in the market to
purchase from the newest Blue
Book collection (the annual
presentation of one-off designs), you
may be invited to inspect them in the
private salon on the mezzanine oor.
Decked out like an apartment, the space
coincidentally occupies the old design studio
of Jean Schlumberger, Tiffanys lauded vice
president. Blue Book pieces are made in the
workshops on the seventh oor, where 14
craftsmen conceive, set and polish around
500 unique items and special orders a
year. This years collection is
kaleidoscopic in variety:
re opals, peridots,
tsavorites, spinels
and tourmalines.
Amy Adams was
particularly taken with
a pair of rhodochrosite
earrings, which she wore to
this years Academy Awards.
GRAND
CENTRAL
Only one Tiffany designer
is granted the honour of a
tribute showcase, situated
beside the entrance thats
Elsa Peretti. Her approach
to design, a layered, sensual
and informal style with an
emphasis on silver, kickstarted a shift in attitudes to
adornment. Collections
by Paloma Picasso and
Schlumberger also sit in the
8,400-square-foot ground
floor, which was built without
columns using bridgeengineering techniques.
GEMS IN THE CITY
BREAKFAST Of course, Tiffany doesnt do breakfast. But

modern Holly Golightlys head across Fifth Avenue to pick
up a coffee and chocolate-swirl pastry from Momofuku
Milk Bar. 15 West 56th Street; www.milkbarstore.com
SEE The American Wing at The Met is home to New
Yorks biggest collection of Tiffany trinkets, from delicately
patterned parasols to ornate cutlery. Afterwards, head to
the rooftop bar for a Martini with views over Central Park.
1000 Fifth Avenue; www.metmuseum.org
DINNER For New American
cooking as dazzling as any of
Tiffanys rocks, Betony has
the hottest tables in town,
with a grown-up take on
seasonal dishes (chicken with
dandelion greens; foie gras
with kale and ham broth).
41 West 57th Street;
www.betony-nyc.com
DRINK Like all the best bars, Raines Law Room isnt easy
to nd. Ask for the off-menu Tiffany cocktail: Plymouth
Gin, St Germain, dry vermouth and orange-blossom water
on the rocks. 48 West 17th Street; www.raineslawroom.com
STAY Dream of Tiffany? Why not dream in Tiffany the

Tiffany Suite at the recently revamped St Regis New York.
The dining room, painted in the distinctive Tiffany blue,
feels like stepping inside one of the jewellers boxes.
2 East 55th Street at Fifth Avenue; www.stregisnewyork.com
WATCH Sit back and enjoy Breakfast at Tiffanys and
other classic lms under the stars in parks across the city.
Check out www.nycgo.com for this summers screenings.
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND
MAN ON A MISSION
y search for the hidden arts of Japanese cuisine starts,

as it has to, in Tokyo, where I learn the rst rule: practice
makes perfect. Were at Unazen, a restaurant known for
its unagi, grilled eel. Its an old-fashioned place, with a
curtained door and wooden interiors, and so popular you have to make
a reservation six weeks ahead. The eel is cooked in front of us. The
technique required is incredible: the chef pulls it alive from a bucket,
kills, guts and preps it in 25 seconds. He then steams, grills and serves
it. You can have it savoury or sweet, in soup or on rice. Later, he
closes the restaurant and gives me a masterclass, showing me all the
intricate techniques. Back home after the trip, my rst attempt will
be a disaster, as will attempts two to seven. Frustratingly, as soon as
I master it, eel is declared endangered and I stop cooking it.
From Tokyo my friend and guide Itsunori Saito takes me to Nara,
a city of Buddhist temples where revered
baby deer walk freely in the streets. We
visit the Harushika sake brewery, where
I learn the second rule: curiosity. Its a
Western misconception that sake is always
drunk warm; the good stuff is poured cold
to maintain its avour. We do a tasting and
I see the whole process of rice polishing and
fermentation. At one stage, the sake looks
like yogurt and is interestingly sweet and sour.
After Nara, we head to Kyoto, where
we have a tasting menu at Roan Kikunoi and
I learn the third rule: bravery. It includes blowsh sashimi, a dish so

dangerous you need a licence to serve it. It is a two-Michelin-star
restaurant so Im not too worried, but it turns out to be quite chewy
and not really worth the risk.
I end my trip back in Tokyo at the Tsukiji market, with its famous tuna
auction and thousands of crazy-looking sh, and queue for two and a half
hours to get 17 minutes at a table in the markets hidden gem, Sushi Dai. I
order the set menu and a surprise piece of sushi at the end turns out to be
the best Ive ever had. It is white and soft, served lukewarm with teriyaki sauce.
And its here I discover that the true secret to cracking Japanese cuisine is
open-mindedness. What was that? I ask. Cod sperm sacs, says the chef.
Oliver Ollysan earned his title from his Japanese cooking masters and uses
traditional techniques in his dishes at The Magazine Restaurant, London
(www.serpentinegalleries.org/restaurant)
THE BOOK After the Banquet by Yukio
Mishima. Avant-garde author, male model and

aborted-coup leader, Mishima had an incredible
life, which ended in his ritualistic suicide in 1970
but shouldnt overshadow his brilliant ction.
This food-focused novel is a good place to start.
THE DOWNLOAD Big in Japan by

Alphaville. The 1984 pop classic, with its synths
and haunting vocal, is a motivational soundtrack
for anyone keen to conquer the nations culture.
PHOTOGRAPHS: MITCHEL FEINBERG; THE KOBAL COLLECTION
Oliver Lange, head chef at the Serpentine Sackler Gallerys Magazine Restaurant, goes
on an eye-opening food odyssey in the Far East to learn the secrets of Japanese cooking
DAVIDS POSTCARD
FROM...
HIGH TOPS
1
The takeover of trainers

isnt just a highfalutin
European-fashion thing. Supra
have smartly co-opted the crazy
imagination of rapper Lil Wayne for
its Chimera boot, which looks like
a quirky, modern take on the winged
footwear worn by Hermes, the
traveller god. Wear them
as you negotiate
New Orleans,
or with a toga
on Mount
Olympus.
www.jdsports.
com, 100
E5 BAKEHOUSE, LONDON
Naturally, anything that works will at

some point get a fashion makeover, so
its no wonder that big-name designers are
banging out boots such as this jazzy pair
by Raf Simons. You would no more play
basketball in them than you would a
Balenciaga ball gown, but that doesnt
mean they wont see you
right as you bounce around
Art Basel. www.mrporter.
com, 280
High tops are lovely things, evocative

of a kind of Sesame Street optimism, a
particularly American form of peppy
1970s innocence thats captured by
that sweetly shortened Hi. And they
achieve that rare trick of being stylish
and comfortable. To no ones surprise,
kings of cool Converse makes the best
entry-level pair. www.size.co.uk, 70
Ben is the master baker. His hair is

blonde, straw-like, redolent of the West
Country. On a busy day they bake 1,000
loaves to be sold in his Hackney shop
or delivered to local restaurants by bike.
But he doesnt just bake it; he teaches it,
evangelises it. The 12 of us on his oneday class start by making dough. The
vital element is the wild-yeast starter, a
fragile creation you have to feed like a
low-tech Tamagotchi. To this we mix
our and salt. Soon were all kneading.
We stretch and fold the dough, turn and
stretch. I whisper blasphemously that it
seems like a lot of work for something
that retails at 3. Later, while our dough
rests, we move to the other kitchen and
watch the professionals as they knead
and sculpt. There is something Zen-like
about their concentration. I wonder if I
am cut out to be an East End artisan, for
work that involves bread our or wood
shaving or bike grease. But when I arrive
that night at my fathers birthday party,
my arms full of sourdough, ciabatta and
bagels, Im glad that hidden in my bag is
a jarful of the starter, a yeast baby, alive
and full of potential. Bread-making
class 120, www.e5bakehouse.com
GET THE LOOK: PLEIN SOLEIL

Make for the Med in bare-chested brilliance by sailing away la Alain Delon
From left: belt, 45, Reiss (www.reiss.com); trousers, 95, Dockers (www.dockers.com); pendant, 188, Serge DeNmes (www.sergedenimes.com);
Fluid Body Sun Cream SPF30, 88, Sisley (www.sisley-paris.co.uk)
STYLE FILE
Swimsuit, 380,
Herms (www.
hermes.com).
Surfboard, 4,145,
Chanel (+44 20
7493 5040)
Jewel sunglasses, 325, Prada

(www.prada.com). Beach towel,
390, Herms (www.hermes.com).
Tote bag, 1,630, Prada (as
before). Espadrilles, 160, Tory
Burch at www.net-a-porter.com
On the scene: Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes

The look: colour-block brights
here are many spectacular and enduringly glamorous hotels on the Cte
dAzur, but there is only one Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and it is 100 years old
this year. The chteau and its Med-front cabanas have been the discreet
backdrops to more real-life movie-star trysts than even rom-com king Richard
Curtis could dream up (Rita Hayworth met her third husband here; JFK had
romantic rendezvous in those beach huts). The architectural symmetry of
the hotel, with its palm-lined gardens, means the ocean comes into view the
minute you step into the elegant marble lobby and white boats bob on the
horizon beyond. After last years revamp, the vibe here is smart but also seriously
cool; the service always sings. Floor-to-ceiling windows ood the pastel bedrooms
with light. Expect to see only the most taut and tanned bodies around the
clifftop pool, most likely wearing Eres and Orlebar Brown. Nubile
gures swing from ropes into the deep-blue ocean and
afterwards wander up to the new Champagne terrace,
where they clink glasses and watch the superyachts come and go. THEA DARRICOTTE www.
hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com. Doubles from about 685
Bikini top, 195;

bottoms, 170, both
Eres (www.boutique.
eresparis.com).
Bangle, 195, Louis
Vuitton (www.louis
vuitton.co.uk)
PHOTOGRAPHS: SLIM AARONS/HUTTON ARCHIVE/

GETTY IMAGES; ZOE GHERTNER; STUDIO DES FLEURS
La Mini D de
Dior watch,
2,900, Dior
(www.dior.com).
X-Pro1 compact
system camera
with Globetrotter
case, 4,499,
Fuji at Harrods
(+44 20 7730
1234)
STYLE YOU CAN WEAR

ANYWHERE
EARRINGS FROM THE LOLA COLLECTION
WWW.KIKI.CO.UK
12 Symons Street, Sloane Square, London SW3 2TJ.
Tel:020 7730 3323
Email:info@kiki.co.uk
TRENDWATCH
GET SET TO SHOP THE LOOK

Akin to the thrill of a pair of towering Tabitha Simmons heels when you usually mooch
around in Converse, the joy of staying in a hotel is trying out something new, just for the
night. And when you fall for the style of the place, what then? Ordering the bed you slept
in is old hat, but now you can pick up much more curious souvenirs from your stay. At
Ace Hotels, all kinds of things in your room, from Pendleton wool blankets to Tanner Goods
leather guitar straps, are available to buy. Aloft properties will sell you the George Nelson
pendant lamps above the bar and Verpan stools from the lobby. But more original nds are
curated by design-obsessive Bea Mombaers at her eclectic B&B, pictured, in the Belgian
seaside town of Knokke (www.bea-bb.com). Everything here, and at her nearby gallery, is
instantly covetable and for sale the art, the furniture, the bowls, the vases. Her coffee-table
books and Antonino Sciortino iron-wire sculptures will t in your suitcase. The vintage acrylic
desk might be trickier to get home though. ISSY VON SIMSON
The Moroccan-tiled replace

at La Minervetta in Sorrento
64
DIGGING IT
PHOTOGRAPH: HAUKE DRESSLER
THESE ARE SOME OF EUROPES BEST UNDER-THE-RADAR

HOTELS THE PLACES NO ONE WANTS YOU TO KNOW
ABOUT. WITH ROOMS FROM AS LITTLE AS 80 A
NIGHT, THEY ARE ALL A STONES THROW FROM THE SEA
AND CLOSE ENOUGH FOR A QUICK GETAWAY
KYRIMAI
PELOPONNESE, GREECE
EKIES ALL SENSES

RESORT
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Three steps

TRAVEL TIME Three-hour ight to Kalamata,
then a 90-minute drive
PRICE Doubles from about 85
Finding Kyrimai is tricky, lying as it does at the end of a tiny
road that winds down one of Peloponneses long ngers,
past miniature Byzantine churches, gorges and wandering
goats. But it is well worth the drive. A converted warehouse
dating back to the 1870s, the hotel sits as close to the
waters edge as is possible, with a central tower looking out
to sea. The 22 bedrooms, all different, are spread out, some
in the tower, others off an interior courtyard or clustered
around a spiral stone staircase. Inside, all is silent and
pared-back, with wooden beams, exposed stonework, and
crisp grey and white linen on the beds. In the mornings,
heavy shutters open to reveal a blast of cerulean sky and the
rhythmic slap of the sea against the mossy green walls
beneath. Terraces of honey-coloured stone are warmed by
the sun and toasty underfoot. Breakfast is a feast of
just-baked pastries, local honey and creamy yogurt, served
beneath a shady pergola by the swimming pool. This is also
the venue for lunch, with plates of just-fried calamari and
smoked aubergine salad washed down with Asirtiko wine
from nearby Monemvasia. The surrounding countryside
has classical ruins and antiquities to explore, but no one will
bat an eyelid if you spend the day by the pool, stirring only
to cool down by leaping from the jetty into the sea.
INSIDE TIP The wonderful 11th-century church
currently being restored in nearby Ochia is worth a visit.
BOOK IT +30 273 305 4288; www.kyrimai.gr
PHOTOGRAPHS: HAUKE DRESSLER
HALKIDIKI, GREECE
DISTANCE TO THE WATER On its own beach

TRAVEL TIME Three-hour, 10-minute ight to Thessaloniki,
The emphasis at Ekies is very much on hanging out horizontally. With its
oversized, Indian-style daybed in the lobby, Coco-Mat mattresses in the
bedrooms, thick-cushioned sun loungers on its small beach, and hammock
strung up in the sea, naps accompanied by the lulling sounds of the
waves and the cicadas are thoroughly encouraged. Owner Alexandra
Efstathiadou has turned the place around, commissioning four designers
from Greeces award-winning agency Beetroot (among them Vangelis
Liakos, now her husband) to curate new looks for the 64 rooms and the
common living spaces. The results could have been messy but, thanks
to Alexandras style-conscious eye, are instead fun and quirky. There are
graphic touches, such as the stylised creatures (bees, squirrels and jellysh)
painted onto the walls to represent the fauna of the surrounding Sithonia
peninsula, as well as more obvious additions such as Panton S chairs,
polished concrete ooring and Tom Dixon lighting. But for all this attention
to design detail, Ekies is essentially a barefoot hideaway, where sarongs
rather than shoes take precedence in the dress code.
INSIDE TIP Head to the old town of nearby Nikiti for an iced coffee
or a glass of wine on the shady terrace up in the hills at Caf Barcarolla,
surroundedby the scent of jasmine, g and pine trees.
BOOK IT +30 237 509 1000; www.ekies.gr
67
HOTEL DE TOIRAS
ILE DE RE, FRANCE
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Harbour-side

TRAVEL TIME One-hour 30-minute ight to
La Rochelle, then a 30-minute drive
Dubbed the French Hamptons, the quintessential harbour of
Saint-Martin-de-R has more than your average quota
of Bretons, bicycles and baguettes. The windswept little
island is unashamedly Gallic, chic but not ash, and
staunchly Atlantique. Sand dunes and pine forests, oyster
beds and vineyards, and whitewashed houses with pale
pastel shutters set the tone. This hotel opened a decade ago,
but somehow feels gloriously fresh. The pretty 17th-century
quayside house has been converted with a lightness of
touch; interiors are classical and smart, antique but not
imposing. Theres an understated but palpable quality to it

all, from the heavy cutlery at La Table dOlivia to the bed
linen. Ask for the gorgeously feminine Madame de Svign
suite, all duck-egg silks and harbour views, where lunch at a
table by the window demands a newspaper and a bottle of
ros, the faint scent of beeswax polish mingling with
fresh-cut owers on a sea breeze; or for the garden-facing
Nicolas Baudin room, with its colonial-style bed and fresh
apple greens. Take your morning coffee on the balcony
as the chef harvests herbs from the garden below.
INSIDE TIP Cycle to the daily Le Bois-Plage-en-R market
and stock up with goats cheese, sea salt, warm bread, fresh
oysters and fruit before hitting the 7km-long beach.
BOOK IT +33 546 354 032; www.hotel-de-toiras.com
LA MALA
LIGURIA, ITALY
DISTANCE TO THE WATER A ve-minute stroll down the hill

TRAVEL TIME One-hour 45-minute ight to Genoa, then a one-hour drive
While the entire Cinque Terre region has been designated a UNESCO heritage
site, Vernazza, with its faded pastel buildings, is a standout. The vocal local
community has resisted the advances of big-name hotel brands; instead, this
is the territory of family-style pensione and smaller, three-star establishments.
A converted Ligurian-style townhouse facing the sea, La Mal is the perfect
distance from the town centre and its day-trippers. Minimal but charming, its
four sunlight-lled bedrooms have buttery soft white linen, hardwood oors
and design details that are more Scandinavian than Italian rustic. Two have
sweeping views of the Med, and theres also a shared terrace from which to
watch the shing boats. Despite some caveats those who are less mobile,
over-burdened by luggage or have children in tow may nd the numerous
stone steps to the property an ordeal, and there is no restaurant the price
and low-key vibe make La Mal one of the best bets on the Italian Riviera.
INSIDE TIP The narrow roads into Vernazza are best avoided. Instead, park
by the station at Levanto, only a ve-minute train ride away.
BOOK IT +39 334 287 5718; www.lamala.it
HOTEL PORTIXOL
MALLORCA, SPAIN
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Right on the harbour

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour ight to Palma, then a 15-minute drive
Just 15 minutes away from Palmas ashy new marina, the old harbour of
Portixol with its traditional llats (Mallorcan shing vessels) feels like it
belongs to another era. That is until you enter this waterside hotel and
discover Spanish architect Rafael Vidals open-plan interior and owner
Johanna Landstrms palette of soft oyster whites, turquoise and teal, with
mid-century furniture, marble oors and natural wood. In-the-know locals
come here to sip early evening cocktails at the bar, and savvy travellers use
it as a weekend bolthole. Early this year, the Hotel Portixol added a new spa
area and all 25 nautical-inspired rooms were given slick new bathrooms.
Downstairs, French doors open on to the pool terrace, where you can laze
while listening to the lapping of the Med and nibbling on grilled mini-scallops.
INSIDE TIP The family-run Sa Roqueta next door specialises in locally
caught lobster and caldereta (seafood stew).
BOOK IT +34 971 271 800; www.portixol.com
CENOBIO DEI DOGI
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID CROOKES; KIM OLSEN
LIGURIA, ITALY
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Steps lead down to the pebbly beach

TRAVEL TIME One-hour 45-minute ight to Genoa, then a 30-minute drive
Picture-perfect Camogli is the Ligurian town that tourists missed. At the
southern end of its long promenade is Cenobio dei Dogi, a hotel that is oldfashioned and charming, but not remotely grand. The lovely bedrooms have
lining paper in the old cedar drawers and crisp, monogrammed linen. You
dont need a physics degree to operate the lights, and the most recent piece
of equipment in the bathroom is the hairdryer introduced in the 1980s.
Most guests are Italian, with virtually no Inglesi. In the restaurant, which
overlooks the water, the vongole will have been landed that morning, and the
staffs starched white jackets and shoulder pips denote a pecking order
long-abandoned elsewhere. Should you tire of reading, swimming in the pool
or drinking in the view from the divine terrace, take a boat to San Fruttuoso
for lunch, or catch the train to explore the Cinque Terre. Or simply go on
a passeggiata to the harbour, stopping off for a gelato at Ghiottoneto.
INSIDE TIP Make friends on arrival with Augustin, Cenobios parking
attendant, and your car will get the best spot in the shade of the cypresses.
BOOK IT +39 018 572 41; www.cenobio.it
69
70
AMMOS HOTEL
CRETE, GREECE
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD;

KIRA CHEERS; DANIELLA STALLINGER
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Right on the beach

TRAVEL TIME Three-hour, 50-minute ight to Chania,
Breakfast alone makes the trip to this chic little beach resort on the
west coast of Crete worthwhile. You could stay for a week and still
not try everything: freshly baked spinach pie; orange cake; sesame
cookies; Cretan yogurt with honey and nuts; mini barley rusks piled
high with feta, olives and tomato. All are served in the groovy,
Moroccan-tiled dining room with its primary-bright mismatched
chairs until a very Mediterranean 11.30am (practically lunchtime
for the many new parents who have wised up to this family-friendly
getaway). Tables at the laid-back restaurant spill out past the
swimming pool and down to a shallow, sandy beach, where the
hotel has its own sunbeds and umbrellas. Theres a playroom if
you want to keep toddlers out of the sun, and babysitters
are on call in the evening. Bedrooms in the low-rise, sugarcubeshaped building are perky, with bright, colour-blocked walls,
Marimekko cushions of clashing patterns and African-print Moroso
stools adding a grown-up touch. The best are the deluxe sea-view
studios freshly revamped for this summer where you can watch
the sunset from your balcony and nod off to the sound of the
waves. This is a feel-good hotel without any formality; most of the
staff have been around for years and many guests are regulars,
which comes as no surprise as the place is astonishingly good
value. Owner Nikos Tsepetis, a self-confessed design junkie, has a
black book packed with insider information about the
regions stunning beaches and remote mountain villages, plus
details on where to go in the lively Venetian harbour of Chania.
INSIDE TIP Ask Nikos for directions to Dounias, a taverna
hidden in the foothills of the White Mountains. Everything from
the goat to the aubergines comes from the owners farm and is
slow-cooked in a wood-red oven.
BOOK IT +30 282 103 300 325; www.ammoshotel.com
GECKO BEACH
FORMENTERA, SPAIN
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Five strides down the boardwalk

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour ight, followed by a 30-minute ferry
and a 15-minute drive
Theres nothing too fancy about Gecko: this is a turn-up-and-kick-your-shoesoff kind of holiday. With low-rise, pared-back rooms, polished concrete oors
and lots of limewashed furniture, it couldnt be more neutral; but then you
havent come here for Instagrammable design. Theres a simple restaurant with
good Italian food, a lovely pool in the middle of the clipped lawn, and big, fat
daybeds with muslin curtains you can draw for an afternoon snooze. The real
draw is just a few sandy steps away: a knockout beach with secret coves,
powdery white sand and warm, clear water. To get to this funky backwater,
where everyone cycles from village to village, does yoga at sunset and drinks
gin-and-tonics long into the night, you have to swing through Ibiza then hop
on a boat. The room to book is the Gecko Suite with its huge sea-facing terrace;
if you cant get that, avoid ones on the ground oor as they tend to be dark.
INSIDE TIP If youre into downward dogs and sun salutations, time
your visit to coincide with one of Jax Lycias yoga workshops.
BOOK IT +34 971 328 024; www.geckobeachclub.com
CAN SIMONETA
MALLORCA, SPAIN
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Just down the cliffside steps

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour ight to Palma, then a one-hour drive
Set on a cliff top in the north-east of the island, Can Simoneta feels
fantastically tucked away. The hotel was designed by local architect Toni
Esteva, who spread the 28 bedrooms across two mid-19th century stone
houses and updated the interiors in calming creams and taupes. There
are simple but stylish doubles and the two-room Gran Suite Neptuno,
set in a walled garden with a private pool, but the best place to stay is the
Beach House, with its sea views. A winding staircase leads to the water,
hot tubs are dotted around the manicured lawns, and crocheted cotton
hammocks swing from umbrella pines. The spa offers facials using slick
Spanish brand Natura Biss, and a smart restaurant serves locally sourced
suckling lamb or Iberian pork. Its quite the grown-up hideaway.
INSIDE TIP Take the hotels speedboat and discover hidden beaches
where youll be dropped off for a Champagne-and-seafood lunch.
BOOK IT +34 971 816 110; www.cansimoneta.com
HOSTEL SA RASCASSA
COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN
DISTANCE TO THE WATER A two-minute walk

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour ight to Girona, then a 50-minute drive
This pretty set-up, owned by former advertising executive Oscar Grriz and
his wife, is just steps from Cala dAiguafreda, one of many coves that fringe
the rocky shoreline. Its ve simple bedrooms have views of the sparkling sea
and are painted in cooling stone hues, and their contemporary bathrooms
are kitted out with uffy white towels (theres no bathtub, though, just
a shower). Outside, theres a wooden-decked terrace where you drink
San Miguels and take in the heady scent of the pine trees. The highlight,
though, is the restaurant, a foodie hotspot known for its modern but
unpretentious riff on Catalan cuisine. By day, eat in the shade of an
impressive 50-year-old euonymus tree; after dark, fairy lights twinkle in its
branches. Feast on grilledsea bream ormar y montaa a rustic Catalan
stew made with chicken and seafood with an excellentEmpord ros.
INSIDE TIP The rugged mountain landscape surrounding the
picturesque town of Begur is punctuated by hillside paths such as the
Cami de Ronda. Go early in the day, before the heat becomes too stiing.
BOOK IT +34 972 622 845; www.hostalsarascassa.com
72
LA MINERVETTA
SORRENTO, ITALY
DISTANCE TO THE WATER 200 steps via a private staircase

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour 40-minute ight to Naples,
then a one-hour drive
With this crazily brilliant, pocket-sized hotel clinging like an eagles lair
to the cliffs just outside Sorrento, owner Marco DeLuca has created
somewhere thats so much more than just a place to sleep. The bold red,
white and blue colour scheme in the huge open-plan living area could feel
a bit Ralph Lauren, but when juxtaposed with Marcos collection of
curiosities, icons and design pieces from Sweden it becomes zingy and
fresh. Bedrooms are sparse with whitewashed walls and the bare minimum
of furniture: the main focus is whats outside the oor-to-ceiling windows.
Each room is different, but especially lovely is the junior suite which, with
its teak oors and brushed-steel Tolomeo lamps, gives you the impression
of being on a boat. Rise early for breakfast and watch the sun rise over
Vesuvius as you munch on cakes baked by receptionist Florianas mother.
Then take the staircase to the shing harbour of Marina Grande where
Neapolitan mammas gossip in the water while their offspring dive from
the rocks. For dinner, pop over the hill to Lo Scoglio, one of the best
restaurants in Italy. And if you are here in mid-July, for the annual lemon
festival, round off the evening with lashings of limoncello.
INSIDE TIP Rather than make for tourist-swamped Sorrento, head
along the Sorrentine Peninsula, still mercifully free from coach parties.
BOOK IT +39 081 877 4455; www.laminervetta.com
LA VOILE DOR
COTE DAZUR, FRANCE
LA COORNICHE
DISTANCE TO THE WATER A stones throw

TRAVEL TIME One-hour 50-minute ight to Nice,
Yes, there is a grander hotel in Cap Ferrat, but unless youre
an emir or an oligarch, chances are you wont stay there. A
lovely alternative is La Voile dOr, established in 1966 in a
fantastic position just above the tiny harbour of St Jean. David
Niven lived down the street and would visit its small but
perfectly formed bar for a pre-lunch snifter; likewise Rex
Harrison, who had a place roughly the same distance in the
other direction. And doubtless they still would if they were
around, because La Voile dOr has hardly changed in the last
50 years, except for a little smartening and polishing. The
19th-century villa feels like a private house, with antique
furniture, painted headboards, original parquet oors and
wonderful curtains, not that youd dream of closing them and
blocking out the view of the hills of Provence, Beaulieu
sparkling around the bay, and the Med below your baby
balcony. The hotel has a pool and a tiny beach, and if you
can tear yourself away from the water and head to the Le
Gastronomique restaurant you will feast on golden brown
Aquitaine caviar, craysh and scallop blanquette with star
anise-scented rice and spit-roasted, milk-fed lamb from
Aveyron. When the Cannes Film Festival rolls around and
the Monaco Grand Prix lls hotel rooms from Nice to the
Italian border, guess where youll nd the old money?
INSIDE TIP Put in a request for rooms 26 or 36, which
overlook the harbour, are enchanting.
BOOK IT +33 493 011 313; www.lavoiledor.fr
BORDEAUX, FRANCE
DISTANCE TO THE WATER A short skip down the dunes

TRAVEL TIME One-hour 45-minute ight, then a 45-minute drive
Philippe Starcks reimagining of this 1930s Basque house is a high-spirited
success. His signature quirkiness is apparent, but with a freshness that suits
the location, right on the sand dunes with views of big skies and an indigo
sea. Bedrooms if you can excuse the mirrors on the ceilings are crisp
and minimalist, softened by tongue-and-groove panels in pastel yellows
and pinks. Murano-glass chandeliers hang above the zinc-topped outdoor
bar, and the restaurant, with its Moroccan-tiled oor, has witty quotes
scribbled along the painted beams. On the bleached-wood deck, striped
double sunbeds surround a rimless innity pool and are roped off for the
use of hotel guests only, as the lunch-time hordes look on longingly. In the
afternoon, paragliders swoop past on the horizon, and children whose
parents are still ploughing through the Provenal ros play on the gardens
giant-sized chessboard. Yes, its self-conscious and at times perhaps a little
too big for its boots (waiters with a Hotel Costes attitude this far from
Paris?) but on a sunny day, with a huge plate of oysters on the table, and
views overlooking the Bassin dArcachon, there can be few places lovelier.
INSIDE TIP Bring hand luggage only. On sunny days, there are hats
to borrow on the terrace. And if the wind whips up in the evening, staff
wheel out gas heaters, with blankets to keep your legs warm.
BOOK IT +33 556 227 211; www.lacoorniche-pyla.com
CONTRIBUTORS: Ondine Cohane, Berenice Debras, Emily FitzRoy, Lydia Gard, Rachel Howard, Alicia Kirby, Mary Lussiana,
Tara Stevens, Issy von Simson, Jeremy Wayne
74
DON FERRANTE
PUGLIA, ITALY
DISTANCE TO THE WATER Waves lap up to the hotel walls

TRAVEL TIME Two-hour, 45-minute ight to Bari,
If you want a taste of what Capri and St Tropez were like in the 1950s,
but for a smidgeon of the price, Monopoli is the spot. Fishermen still
mend their nets and sell sardines from bucketsby the harbourwhile
wizened old ladies on plastic chairs pinch out orecchiette with their
thumbs.This 10-bedroom townhouse was originally a fortress, carved
into the ancient defensive walls that surround the town. Tucked away
down a side street, Don Ferrante comes as a surprise to even the most
seasoned Italophile, its discreet front door opening to reveal a maze
of narrow stone steps and corridors all leading to the same Adriatic
panorama. With that blue sea always visible, it made sense for the
owner, Gianni, to paint his hotel entirely white; everything glows, from
the staff uniforms to the vintage Piaggio Ape three-wheeler that trundles
guests through the cobbled streets. Bedrooms are simple, sun-lled
and very comfy. The suite with its Juliette balcony is heavenly, but just
as lovely is the dinky Portiera. The rooftop restaurant is white, too, with
sofas and sunbeds overlooking the coastline. The pool is tiny, but some
of the best beaches in Italy are just minutes away, and guests have special
access to the Hamptons-esque Coccaro Beach Club.
INSIDE TIP Dont drive: Monopoli is for exploring hand in hand.
Take a short stroll down to the Lido Bianco for a plate of fresh
sea urchins, washed down with the local Primitivo.
BOOK IT +39 080 742 521; www.donferrante.it
76
WHITE HEAT
WITH SULTRY, SUN-BLEACHED HILL TOWNS AND WIDE,

WIND-WHIPPED BEACHES, THE COSTA DE LA LUZ
IS A DELICIOUS SLICE OF OLD-WORLD SPAIN, SAYS
ANTONIA QUIRKE. PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM PARKER
ong after midnight, I came to Jerez on the road

from Cdiz, with blizzards of moths rushing towards
the lights of the car like crazed supplicants to a shrine.
A freakishly wet spring followed by the savage furnace
blast of early summer had lured tens of thousands from
their journey across the Strait of Gibraltar, until the
whole of the southern edge of Spain seemed to vibrate
with their sound. The fth largest city in Andaluca,
Jerez is a perfect place to start a tour of the hill towns
(pueblos blancos) and nearby beaches of Costa de
la Luz, the stretch of spectacular natural reserves
running from the mouth of the Guadiana River on
the Portuguese-Spanish border down to the small city of Tarifa
just over the water from Tangier.
Nights in Jerez are for indulgence. On a wooden carousel in
Plaza del Arenal, bright-painted Spanish horses are polished
for the hours and children to come, and gas lamps glimmer on
tables outside sherry bars along Calle San Pablo. Walk for long
minutes through the elegantly shabby old city and you will nd
nothing but silent alleys and part-derelict houses sprouting g
trees or a weeping bottlebrush. Scarlet pomegranate owers
loll over hoardings decades-thick with posters for bullghts, a
powerful ash-vision of western Asia meeting ancient Crete,
that quintessentially southern-Spanish union. Moors, Romans,
Phoenicians: everywhere is the memory of countless invaders.
And then, rounding a neglected corner, you will come upon a
smart avenue rammed with people talking in that sociable
Andalusian way. An English friend who has lived here for years
says he still marvels at the sound of grandmothers deep in
conversation outside his door at 3am. What can they possibly
ROUNDING A CORNER IN THE

SHABBY OLD CITY, YOU WILL COME
UPON A SMART AVENUE RAMMED
WITH PEOPLE TALKING IN THAT
SOCIABLE ANDALUSIAN WAY
be talking about? What new and bewitching thing can have
occurred since their last long conversation that afternoon?
On a spring evening in the medieval church of San Miguel a
wedding is taking place. Glancing through the open doors into
the gloomy interior, I can make out pew after pew lled with
beautiful women in sequined gowns, gold bracelets ashing on
their wrists. The unbelievable glamour of well-to-do Spanish
women in early middle age. Outside on a bench the father of the
bride sits smoking in a grey formal suit, cooling himself with a straw
fan, surrounded by celebratory friends. None of them is remotely
bothered about missing the service. Inside the church or out, so
long as the front doors remain open to broadcast the occasional
incantation of the priest, its all the same to the Andalusian, whose
attitude to Catholicism is born of a deep familiarity and ease.
Twenty miles east of jerez in the high town of arcos, two little
girls in bloomers play with spinning tops while their younger
sister, her hair curled and immaculately parted, attempts to
catch a beetle in a cup. It is important to communicate how
perfectly antique this scene is, how unlike anything you might see
From top right: Hotel V in Vejer; a traditional dish of saffron-baked lamb.
Opposite, the Alczar in Jerez. Previous pages, Vejer Old Town
78
elsewhere in modern Europe. There is an extreme innocence to

the children in southern Spain. Mollycoddled, usually dressed
to the nines and indulged with buns after their long siestas, they
waddle the cobbles until at least 1am while their parents have
supper and jabber with neighbours, moving up and down Calle
Dean Espinosa in a smoothly milling stream. There is a richness to
this ritual. The gathering and eating, the promenading and irting.
What time do you shut? I ask the harried waitress at Taberna
Jvenes Flamencos. Until there are no more people! she hoots. In
her arms are plates of chicharrones, cubes of fried, fatty pork belly,
intensely salted and served with glasses of ice-cold white sherry.
On the wall, the jewelled costume of a once-feted toreador hangs
(But now I am no longer I, nor is my house any longer my house.)

Moments later, she stands up with a grin, her rage-trance forgotten,
and everyone cheers and troops down the hill to the bars for more
food. To eat in southern Spain is really to snack between snacks.
One place might sell small plates of delicious grilled aubergine
and goats cheese drizzled with honey, another might specialise
in taquitos de pescado en adobo, melting fried morsels of white
sh that tell you the sea, and miles and miles of unspoilt dunes,
is close at hand. Even the olives here taste subtly of anchovies.
Cross the fertile plains of the coastal barbate river in
August and you will pass molten elds of sunowers and
TO EAT IN SOUTHERN SPAIN IS REALLY TO SNACK BETWEEN SNACKS.

MELTING MORSELS OF WHITE FISH TELL YOU THE SEA IS CLOSE AT HAND
like the ag of a conquering knight. Weeds spring from the roofs of
the houses along the incline up to a square dotted with lime trees
outside the 15th-century Basilica de Santa Maria, where on feast
days a statue of the Virgin luxuriates on a bower of white hyacinths.
During an evening of amenco in the square the town sits watching
a young woman dance a kind of malaguea, but one of particularly
savage fury. Her hair wild, she nally falls into a swoon as though
completely exhausted from all the suffering and squalor of a love
so lost she belonged to nobody and nowhere. Pero yo ya no soy yo,
ni mi casa es ya mi casa, wrote the great Andalusian poet Lorca.
wheat. Combine harvesters cling to little hills tilted towards

the sun. Massive cabbage whites bash against my car as I idle
along empty roads bordered by in-leaning crape myrtle and
overlooked by storks in disordered nests on the top of telegraph
poles. Vultures circle elds of black horned cattle. The city of
Medina is steep. So steep that to get to the top requires passing
through an old Moorish gate in the middle of town and then
what feels like falling to your knees and crawling vertically into
the ancient quarter. Medina is the oldest city in Europe. Cdiz
may ofcially claim that title but, in fact, tiny Medina was the
Below, from left: Valdevaqueros beach in Tarifa, the most southern spot on the Spanish mainland; a bedroom at Hotel V. Opposite, art and
antiques in the home of David Fraser-Luckie, who opened Las Cuadras tapas bar in his familys 19th-century nca in the centre of Jerez
80
82
centre of a Phoenician colony rst and then a major centre

under Roman occupation. A grand Visigoth fortress became a
Christian castle, in whose windswept remains tiny stonechats
are now blown about like blossom among enormous blood
poppies. It can feel hotter here at 5pm than it does at midday
despite the constant breeze, hot and ruminative and melancholy.
There is nobody on the surrounding streets, nobody in Plaza de
la Iglesia Mayor, nobody in Santa Mara la Coronada Church
at the tip-top of the town. Inside, the statue of a tortured Saint
Sebastian is covered in dust. A bench for a 15th-century inquisitor
sits a few feet from a stone gargoyle, his tongue protruding down.
After the noise and gossip of Arcos, the sound of just wind and
crested larks and the view across the plains, unchanged for more
than a thousand years save for the occasional white forest of
wind turbines, make Medina feel gorgeously lost. In the only bar
up this high a family plays cards and decimates a plate of cherries
and sheeps-milk cheese. Medina is deeply traditional: work
from 7am until 2pm in summer then a siesta ending at 5.30pm,
followed by cake and sugared milk indoors, and perhaps a visit to
the sweltering beach. The locals will dutifully change into winter
clothes on 1 October even if it is still 28C. Cristo todopoderoso,
its damn hot, theyll complain, shifting uncomfortably in their
woollen jackets, waiting for the cooler weather that might not
come for weeks. If Andaluca teaches you one thing, its patience.
And what of these famous, untainted beaches? Bright with
an implacable light, the Costa de la Luz is so capricious it will
THERES AN INNOCENCE TO THE

CHILDREN. THEYRE MOLLYCODDLED,
DRESSED TO THE NINES AND
INDULGED WITH POST-SIESTA BUNS
never nd favour with those seeking the drugging reliability
of the Costa del Sol. The Atlantic winds sweep in with an
immense power, wrapping your cheeks around the back of
your head, winds you can actually lean into on the beach at
Roches and El Palmar but which can whip up suddenly to
sandblast bathers, forcing families to run shrieking in towels
to the safety of the juniper forests hugging the coastline. On
other days all is calm. On a cloud-scudding afternoon at the
Bolonia Beach Caf, a white-sanded beauty spot overlooked
by the yellow remains of a Roman city, I drink vinegary
gazpacho and work my way through a dish of fried anchovies.
The boquerones here are sometimes as small as whitebait,
sometimes as startlingly large as sardines. Plates of bones and
spines pile high in the open back kitchen and, in the shrubland
beyond, horses and donkeys stand perfectly still, their gaze
drawn helplessly towards Africa just over the water.
In the town of Tarifa, as far south as you can get in Spain,
small groups of teenagers stagger from ferries clutching
fake-silver teapots bought in the souks of Tangier, 30 minutes
away. Tarifa is where Andalucas teenagers come to kitesurf
and party, camping under the mulberry trees beyond the
dunes. Along the little stretch of sand outside the Hotel Arte
y Vida dogs mingle happily with all human life: nose rings
and G-strings, Spiderman trunks and ping-pong matches. Oh,
From top right: a girl outside San Dionisio Church, Jerez; Medina Sidonia.
Opposite, clockwise from top left: the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian
Art; Moorish tiles in Vejer; Casa La Siesta hotel; Casa Via de Alcntara
84
the girls. The limbs. Everywhere slim legs and braceletjangling arms. Grandmothers pose proudly for photographs
with granddaughters dressed in outrageously short Daisy
Dukes, hooped earrings glinting in the dark curls they toss
about with the lovely careless manners founded on extreme
condence. This is a high self-esteem culture. Girls feel
beautiful, wheeling their weekend suitcases through the
streets of Conil the closest thing on this coastline to a
concrete resort yelling with excitement. At night the
dancing and drinking in the towns this far south goes on late,
but there is relatively little brazen drunkenness. A taxi driver
in the town of Zahara marvelled to me, a full six years after
the event, about a blind-drunk English wedding guest hed
transported to her guesthouse. At the age of 45, he shook
his head, more in amazement than disdain. 45!
Vejer rises from the flat coastal plain beyond the Cape
of Trafalgar with the paradisiacal salt-whiteness of a
Ladybird-book illustration. Surrounded by medieval walls,
it is the jewel of this region, a bright, dream city of churches
and palaces and wooden doors giving onto mosaiced interior
patios with wafting muslin awnings. Its tiny, tangled and
irregular streets follow the ups and ups of a rocky hill.
Wandering the close labyrinth of these alleys, past delicate
wrought-iron balconies, Vejer feels unlike any other pueblo
blanco. Restaurants serve tagines and add mint to their
VEJER FEELS UNLIKE ANY OTHER

PUEBLO BLANCO. THE SMELL OF
INCENSE IN ITS CAFES PROMISES
THE HIPPY TRAIL AND AFRICA
gazpacho. Roof terraces laden with immaculate hammocks
drip with just-watered roses. The smell of incense in cafs
(established 1962) promises the hippy trail and Africa, but
the potted plants along the scrubbed cobbles look more
like 6th-arrondissement Paris. Vejer might echo with distant
civilisations going back 5,000 years to the invasion of the
Cretans (bulls are raced through the streets here once a
year), but the town is supremely, cleanly elegant. Everything
feels amplied, the people stylish and amiably indolent. From
the highest point in the city, the view is of richly irrigated
elds of tomatoes, pimentos and watermelons, the sound is
of cuckoos and honeybees, busying to and from a nest in the
wall of El Devino Salvador Church, which still brandishes
an ancient Star of David, recalling a time when the area
around Plaza Angel was a Jewish quarter.
Sunset in Vejer comes on with an immense yellow ochre,
thinning to lilac for an impossibly long time. In Plaza Espaa,
under a moon as bright as a streetlamp, Chinese hibiscus
reects off the shiny green 19th-century ceramic frogs dotted
about its fountain, and amontillado-swilling couples order
saffron-baked lamb at restaurant tables. Long after midnight,
in a small domed kiosk, an elderly woman in black crepe
smokes and listens to the radio, selling poker cards and lottery
tickets for a pittance. And then later still, a cat sniffs the remains
of a dried lizard in a side street, relaxed in its moment of feline
solitude, eventually distracted by the call of a nightingale.
Top right, a tomato salad in Las Cuadras tapas bar, Jerez. Opposite, the
interior of Las Cuadras, which is on the site of a 17th-century prison
WHERE TO STAY
JEREZ
Just 15 minutes
drive from the city
centre, Casa Via
de Alcntara stands
in elds of wheat,
surrounded by poplars.
A peerlessly renovated
lodge owned by a
wine-growing family,
it has just a handful of
perfectly chic rooms
and a shaded pool. Its
close enough to the
airport to be your only
destination for an
absurdly romantic
weekend, interrupted
by the occasional
taxi ride into town
for tapas and sherry.
+34 956 393010;
www.vinadealcantara.
com. Doubles from
about 140
MEDINA SIDONIA
More basic than
boutique, La Vista
de Medina is still that
almost impossible
thing: a place to stay
with a lovely pool in
this steepest of hot,
remote hill towns.

The view from the
terraced restaurant is
legendary, and the
owners wrap you in
blankets if the winds
pick up. Medina is a
thrillingly authentic
town, full of rejas, the
protruding boxed
windows encased
in metal bars that
recall young couples
murmured late-night
conversations without
chaperones. +34 956
410069; www.lavistade
medina.com. Doubles
from about 50
VEJER
Hotel V is a charming,
smart hideaway in an
ancient building at the
very top of town, with
a hot tub on the roof
terrace so high kestrels
and buzzards hover
only feet away. This
hotel is precisely where
you want to be:
moments from both
quiet bars and churches
and a busy central
square, and yet its
always peaceful. Order

the breakfast of mango
and tiny local sheeps
cheeses. +34 956
451757; www.hotelvvejer.com. Doubles from
about 125
A short drive from
the city into the lush
farmland below, Casa
La Siesta is a country
house that looks like
a Roman villa. Its large
rooms give onto a
leafy courtyard that
leads down to a garden
pool. Its also a horse
sanctuary, and friendly
stallions wander past
eating the sunowers.
Lunch and supper
cooked by a healthconscious chef are a
nice change from the
mostly fried southernSpanish tapas. +34 699
619430; www.casala
siesta.com. Doubles
from about 185
GETTING THERE
Thomson (www.
thomson.co.uk) ies
from Gatwick to Jerez
All photographs
taken at Cheval Blanc
Randheli, Maldives
(www.chevalblanc.com)
Cotton bra top, 285, Isa
Arfen (www.mychameleon.
com. au). Cotton-tulle
ower-embellished skirt,
1,740, Marni (www.
marni.com). Resin earrings,
150, Marni (as before).
Sautoir necklace, 970;
gold Manchette bangle,
395; wooden Manchette
bangle, 310, all Roger
Vivier (www.rogervivier.
com). Woven bangle, 55,
Pebble London (www.
pebblelondon.com). Jewel
wedges, 930, Prada
(www.prada.com)
TO INFINITY
AND
BEYOND
PUSH THE LIMITS OF DRESSING UP IN
THE EYEPOPPING PLAYGROUND OF THE
MALDIVES. STYLED BY FIONA LINTOTT.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARY ROZZI
Floral bikini top, 415;

bottoms, 145, both
Dolce & Gabbana (www.
dolcegabbana.com).
Crystal and enamel earrings,
455, Shourock (www.
brownsfashion.com).
Midnight Tropic necklace,
660; teardrop V necklace,
460, both Akong at Salt
Resort Boutique (www.
saltresortwear.com). Jewel
bracelets, from 119,
Nocturne (www.harvey
nichols.com). Jewel wedges,
930, Prada (www.prada.
com). Parasol courtesy
of Cheval Blanc Randheli.
Opposite, Natte dress,
3,650, Prada (as before).
Feather headdress, 145,
Pebble London (www.
pebblelondon.com)
Satin top, 130, Gerard

Darel (www.gerarddarel.
com). Broadcloth shorts,
495, Michael Kors (www.
michaelkors.com). Hat,
POR, J Smith Esquire
(www.jsmithesquire.
com). Crystal and enamel
earrings, 455, Shourouk
(www.brownsfashion.com).
Leather necklace, POR,
Herms (www.hermes.
com). Woven bangle, 55;
wooden bangle, 45, both
Pebble London (www.
pebblelondon.com). Silver
cuff, 505; suede heels,
585, both Pierre Hardy
(www.pierrehardy.com)
Beaded-sleeve top, 850,

Aquilano Rimondi (www.
fenwick.co.uk). Cashmere
shorts, 124, Bella Freud
(www.bellafreud.co.uk).
Shell necklace, POR,
Cheval Blanc Randheli
(www.chevalblanc.com).
Gold bracelet, 45; black
horn bracelet, 75, both
Pebble London (www.
pebblelondon.com).
Embellished Juda boots,
POR, Jerome C Rousseau
(www.jeromecrousseau.
com). Model, Amber
Anderson at Tess
Management. Hair and
make-up, Ruth Warrior at
Lovely Management, using
Guerlain. Nails, Porcelaine
by Dior. With thanks to
British Airways (www.ba.
com), which ies direct
from Gatwick to Mal
92
A place to SAIL through calm waters,

DIVE with manatees and DRIFT ashore
at sandy-oored beach bars, Belize is
the quietest corner of the Caribbean
Words by Stanley Stewart
Photographs by Martin Morrell
94
nce upon a time, belize was a holiday destination

for pirates. They lounged on the beaches, swam in the bays and
lurked among the reefs and mangroves in their bandanas and
eyepatches, waiting for passing galleons. The maps tell their holiday
tales. The cayes and islands in these waters sound as if they have
been lifted from Treasure Island: Gallows Point, Man O War
Caye, Deadmans Cayes, Spanish Lookout, Last Chance Caye.
The setting is pure Pirates of the Caribbean: azure waters, a
sand-fringed coastline, highlands of tropical jungle, Mayan ruins.
The buccaneering spirit still means something in this laid-back
little country; Belize is the natural home for all sorts of vagabonds
and drifters, beach bums and runaways anyone who cleaves
to the idea that a beach, a hammock and a degree of freedom
are preferable to a career, a mortgage and membership of the
golf club. Belize is a happy harbour for wayward romantics.
Running with the trade winds in the Inner Channel, Captain
Cliff was philosophical. Its a great place to forget the rest of the
world, he said. Out here theres nothing but the sea, the winds, the
islands and the sense that life just doesnt get a whole lot sweeter.
We were sailing south towards Coco Plum Caye on a catamaran
the size of small frigate. Palm-crowned islands were scattered
around the blue horizon. Windward lay Shag Bluff and Rendezvous
Caye, the latter nothing more than a grove of trees, a pile of conch
shells and a pristine beach. Belize has one of the worlds longest
barrier reefs, giving it hundreds of kilometres of calm-water
sailing and dozens of deserted islands. Its coral walls provide some
of the best diving in the western hemisphere.
We dropped anchor in the lee of Robinson Caye. Rum cocktails
were served on deck, then dinner arrived: lobster and oriental rice,
Right, from top: pelicans diving for sh off Ambergris Caye; a view of the
beach at Matachica. Opposite, the terrace of a casita at Matachica.
Previous pages: Matachicas swimming pool; one of the two Azul villas
To AWAKE at anchor in the lee of a strange island in southern

latitudes on a sunny day is to know the MEANING OF BLISS
a bottle of Pinot Grigio, followed by a glorious, indenable pudding.

The setting sun highlighted the Maya Mountains on the mainland.
A stable democracy, a former British colony and an Englishspeaking country in a Latino neighbourhood, Belize has never
been bothered by the kind of turmoil that passes for normal life
among its neighbours military dictatorships, coups, civil wars,
dangerous crime rates. There is an innocent, toy-town feeling
about the place. It has a population of just over 330,000, about
the same as Londons in the 17th century. With only 16,000
people, Belmopan is one of the smallest capital cities in the
world. This is the country where chewing gum was discovered
and where chocolate is a major export. Independent since 1981,
the Belizeans have kept the Queen on the banknotes because
they couldnt think of anyone to replace her. In Belize City,
Government House displays a photograph of one of the countrys
landmark occasions: Princess Margarets visit in 1958.
Ethnically, Belize is all over the place. There are native Mayans.
There is a mestizo population, with a mix of Spanish and Mayan
blood, many of whom have come from Guatemala or Honduras.
There are the descendants of Carib Indians, of shipwrecked
African slaves, of 18th-century English loggers, of South Asians
who came in the 19th century to work the tea plantations, and of
Confederate soldiers who arrived after defeat in the American
Civil War. And there are the Mennonites Amish settlers braving
the tropics in 17th-century dress, searching for heaven on earth.
I had begun my week on the beach at the wonderful Azul villas
on Ambergris Caye, test-driving the hammocks, sampling coconut
cocktails, demolishing several lobsters and chasing manatees

(the creatures said to be the origin of mermaid myths). But I was
not to be conned to the beach, or at any rate to just one. I was
setting off for four days on Captain Cliffs 50-metre catamaran,
Doris, with few plans, a ne chef, an open bar and a locker full of
diving gear. I was a very Jolly Roger. To awake at anchor in the lee
of a strange island in southern latitudes on a sunny morning, the
boat rocking gently like a hammock, the smell of coffee and bacon
drifting up from the galley, the sound of the surf on the outer
reef, pelicans swooping off the starboard bow, dolphins passing
astern to awake thus is to know the meaning of bliss.
ravellers are only just beginning to wake up to Belize.
As part of the Caribbean, it has been overlooked by
people heading for well-worn destinations such as the
Bahamas or Barbados. Anyone who has been sailing in the
British Virgin Islands will be amazed by how beautiful and how
empty are Belize waters. In four days aoat, I saw only a half
dozen other cruising yachts. And when you drop anchor for an
island beer, it is not at a sprawling resort; it is in a little barefoot
bar where the local storyteller is cutting the limes.
In these seas and these islands, Captain Cliff seems to know
everyone. And a surprising number are people like him, refugees
from the real world, people who came once on holiday, fell in
love with Belize and promptly threw their old lives overboard.
Theres Carl from Swallow Caye, who is a manatee whisperer;
he paddles visitors through the mangroves where the mermaids
Above, from left: the bedroom of a beachfront casita at Matachica; the beach and jetty at Azul. Opposite, the roof terrace of a villa at Azul
97
98
rub their noses against his dugout canoe. There is Peter, an Italian
bubbling with enthusiasm for the good life here, who runs the
exclusive Royal Belize resort for celebrity clients. Theres Ally
known as the Snapper who escaped Canadian winters for
a life on Caye Caulker, where she takes visitors on snorkelling
expeditions in search of sea horses. Over on Pelican Caye,
theres the couple from Key West who have created a great little
bar for passing sailors. Down at South Water Caye, there is
Stacey, gym owner, weightlifter and the best bartender in Belize.
As we sailed through the Belize Caribbean, it was beginning to
feel less like a sea and more like a cosy neighbourhood.
If human society along this reef is congenial, the natural world
tends to the bizarre. On the third day, Cliff and I went diving.
Along the reefs, millennia of evolution have produced species of
sh as strange and colourful as their habitat. Their names evoke
more than any description: the harlequin bass, the barred hamlet,
the spotted drum, the yellowtail damsel, the spiny puffer, the
banded butterysh, the stoplight parrotsh.
But it wasnt just prettiness. A pipe sh arrived, looking like a
bit of hardware dropped from a yacht. A couple of nurse sharks
drifted by, switching their powerful tails, watching us with steely
eyes. A turtle appeared, a refugee from the Jurassic age. And
then the star turn: a spotted eagle ray, ve metres long, ying in
slow motion on beating wings.
After lunch, we headed across to the bird sanctuary on
Man O War Caye. A tiny island with a dozen trees, it has been
colonised by magnicent frigate birds. On the wing, frigate birds
have a glamorous, antediluvian silhouette. They are the pirates
of the avian world, with forked tails and scimitar beaks which
they use for stealing other birds catch.
andfall was placencia, a sandy peninsula in the south.
International idlers of every persuasion have built beach
houses here, but Placencia village still manages to feel
like a shing hamlet. The shermens Lobsterfest in June trumps
the bohemian Sidewalk Arts & Music Festival in February as the
big draw. Along the paved strip that made it into the Guinness
Book of Records as the narrowest main street in the world, there
are craft boutiques and guesthouses, cafs and beach bars among
the nets and boats drawn up on the sands.
I stayed at Turtle Inn, one of the two Francis Ford Coppola
properties in Belize. The decor might have a touch of the lm
directors beloved Balinese inuences, but the vibe is chilled-out
Caribbean and the sh menus are superb.
On my last day, I went diving out on the Silk Cayes. It was too
early in the season for the majestic whale sharks that frequent
these waters in May and June, but every time I turned my head
there was another spectacular creature gazing at me. Flotillas
of gunmetal barracuda drifted by while parrotsh grazed on the
underwater vegetation. A striped lionsh appeared, its tentacles
like some ill-advised fancy-dress costume.
As we headed back to shore, a school of dolphins converged
on the boat, playing back and forth across the bows. We put on
snorkelling gear and joined them in the water. I could hear them
chatting to one another: the soft repetitive clicks of dolphin
speak. Of course they were talking about us. With our masks like
eyepatches and our brightly coloured swimming costumes like
pantaloons, we must have had a familiar look. I knew what the
dolphins were saying: Which one is Captain Hook?
Right, from top: the bar at El Secreto and a view of the beach from one
of the sea villas. Opposite, the beachside terrace of a villa at Azul
I went diving along the CORAL WALLS, and every time I turned
my head there was another spectacular CREATURE gazing at me
HOTEL HOTSPOTS FROM REEF TO RAINFOREST

AZUL
On a long beach at the quieter end of Ambergris Caye, Azul is all

about seclusion. The two open-plan villas are vast, with two
bedrooms, enormous bathrooms, and a hot tub on the roof. The
pool overlooks the sea, and the barrier reef is a 10-minute kayakpaddle away. The Rojo Beach Bar serves top-class food, including
conch pizza and cashew-crusted lobster. www.azulbelize.com.
Villa for two from about 360 per night; three-night minimum stay
EL SECRETO
Opened two years ago and accessible only by water, El Secreto

combines a chic, modern look with a simple setting of sand, sea and
sky. A central pavilion and snug casitas of tropical wood, stone mosaic
and thatch are brightened up with blazes of vivid orange. The 13 villas
on the beach or around a saltwater lake have iPad-controlled
air-con and Wi-Fi, and each has a garden shower and plunge pool
outside. The bartender mixes a memorable frozen coconut Mojito,
and theres tasty Caribbean-inected food (chicken with fried
plantain; Mayan grouper served on a banana leaf) in the beachfront
restaurant. www.elsecretobelize.com. Doubles from about 325
MATACHICA
A speedboat ride from San Pedros hustle, this must be one of the
most relaxed places on Ambergris Caye. Life here is reduced to
its essentials: glittering sea, white beach and 25 thatched cottages
(plus a two-bedroom villa) in Matisse colours. The beach casitas
are best: nothing can beat stepping straight from bed to private
terrace to beach and into the turquoise shallows. Mambo restaurant
serves scallops, lobster and wonderful local snapper with salsa
fresca. www.matachica.com. Doubles from about 165
MAP: JANE WEBSTER ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY: IRENE EDWARDS; JULIAN EVANS; ALISON HUMES
VICTORIA HOUSE
A long-established favourite, this is a silky-smooth hotel with 42

thatched casitas, colonial-style plantation rooms and beachfront
villas. Theres a dive centre, acres of dazzling sand and a spa offering
hot-stone massages on the beach. Palmilla restaurants menu
runs from a classic shrimp ceviche to a lush pineapple-and-guava
coulis; and the Admiral Nelson Bar, overlooking the waves, is the
perfect spot for a rum-infused sundowner in a frosted glass.
www.victoria-house.com. Doubles from about 140
KAANA
The primary goal of Kaana is to let you do whatever you want, and
anything seems possible here: snorkelling, cave-tubing, zip-lining,
helicopter tours, birdwatching, Mayan cookery classes. La Ceiba
restaurant dishes up local delicacies including a sensational seafood
soup with coconut milk and coriander, and guests can step into
the kitchen and learn the chefs secrets. The 17 villas (each with a
butler), master suites and casitas are airy and bright, and the spa,
organic gardens and surrounding rainforest are wonderfully serene.
www.kaanabelize.com. Doubles from about 200
TURTLE INN
The cabanas here, all a few paces from the sea, are decorated in a
mix of antique tropical style and the trademark Balinese motifs (dark
wood, Asian prints and carvings) of owner Francis Ford Coppola.
Theres a family feel about the place, a couple of innity pools, a
beach bar, a gelateria and a dive centre. In the evening, book a table
at the beachside Gauguin Grill: its seafood, seared over charcoal, is
exceptional. A big plus of Turtle Inn is that you can cycle along the
sandy streets into Placencia and sip a beer with a bunch of barefoot
locals. www.coppolaresorts.com/turtleinn. Doubles from about 230
BELCAMPO BELIZE
Down south in the Toledo district, this jungle lodge offers more to do
than you can easily pack into a week. Visit Mayan ruins, spectacular
cave systems, villages, chocolate ateliers, coffee plantations and
the fascinating market in Punta Gorda where Mennonites in austere
garb bargain with Caribbean mammas in tropical skirts. This is not
a coastal property, but the beach is only a couple of miles away,
and there are diving and deep-sea shing excursions to the reef and
beyond. Rooms have oor-to-ceiling windows with views of the
rainforest and its birdlife. Belcampo is proud of its green credentials
and produces its own organic coffee, rum and sugar, but best of
all is the food: the sea and on-site farm provide everything from
cinnamon-smoked breakfast sausages to wild shrimp at dinner.
www.belcampobz.com. Doubles from about 205
GETTING THERE
Abercrombie & Kent (+44 845 485 1497; www.abercrombiekent.

co.uk) offers a seven-day Coastal and Catamaran itinerary from
3,715 per person including full-board accommodation at Azul and
on the Doris cataraman, ights, transfers and excursions. A 10-day
Highlights of Belize tour takes you from the coast to the highlands,
staying at Victoria House, Turtle Inn and Hidden Valley Inn, close to
the Mayan ruins of Caracol. From 3,075 per person including
ights, transfers and excursions. British Airways (www.ba.com) ies
to Belize (in conjunction with American Airlines) via Miami, where
an overnight stay is required. In Belize, Tropic Air (www.tropicair.
com) ferries passengers around in small propeller planes.
Opposite, the private pool terrace of a villa at Kaana in San Ignacio
101
On the beach on the Swedish

island of Gotland. Opposite,
shermens nets at Sysneudd
102
TAKE
THE AIR
ITS A SWEDISH SUMMER RITUAL

THAT WILL LEAVE YOU FRESH AS A
DAISY. HEAD OUT OF TOWN WITH
FRIENDS AND FAMILY AND DIP INTO
THE COUNTRYSIDE FOR A WEEK TO
SLOW DOWN, PICK BERRIES AND SWIM
WILD IN THE SEA AND LAKES
WORDS BY JULIET KINSMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEN KOCHEY
Mention Gotland to
those in the know,
and they will
gush about the
special light, the
fragrant air and
the deserted beaches
This page, playing around

Jakobs Gotland, a converted
farmhouse on the island
with a two-acre garden, and at the
swimming jetty in Visby.
Opposite, one of Gotlands many
medieval churches, at Krklingbo
ej-hej waved our neighbour

from his tractor as we emerged
from a shed on his dairy farm.
Our daily routine would
begin like this: ll churns with milk that
tasted like melted vanilla ice cream; jot
down how much wed taken and leave a
few krona. Then wed walk home, past
swaying wheat, hay baled in plastic like
giant mozzarellas, and glossy, chocolatebrown horses.
Our new home was in the hamlet of
Jakobs, on Gotland, Swedens largest island.
Most of the clapboard cottages in these
parts are still inhabited by farmers, and
although it was wired for all things digital,
our pretty, chalk-washed, renovated
farmhouse seemed to cast a spell and
magically foster an unplugged, outdoors
spirit. Ale and Harry were always outside,
playing hide-and-seek among the wild
orchids which grow here like weeds; Kitty
was blissfully happy exploring the barn and
picking wildowers to press. We couldnt
have been more content; tensions melted
away with each breath of oxygen-rich air.
Mention Gotland to those in the know,
and they will gush about the special light,
the fragrant air and the deserted beaches,
the reason why painters, sculptors and
glassmakers ock here. And indeed, the
landscape might remind you of an Ingmar
Bergman movie, with good reason; just
to the north of Gotland is the diminutive
isle of Fr (pronounced phworer
and meaning sheep island), where the
lmmaker lived for his last three decades.
Every day we set off along the empty
lanes, in a direction dictated by what we
fancied for supper or where we wanted
to go for a swim. Wed visit the best place
for organic lamb, or explore the market
at Sysneudd for just-caught craysh or
smoked-that-day ounder, turbot and
salmon. Cooking for ourselves immersed
us in the authentic avours of local life,
through buying food at the markets and
farm shops, and stocking up with booze
which can only be bought from the
government-run systembolaget. (Beers
from local microbreweries are delicious,
but stick to non-Swedish wines for now.)
Theres a strong sense of independence
here and an old-fashioned community
spirit. Many of the 58,000 islanders are
still yeomen. When the Vikings were off
wreaking havoc, the people of Gotland
were paddling their longboats to Russia
and Constantinople and their legacy is an
exotic larder. Medieval imports are still

found in delicacies such as cardamom
buns and saffranspannkaka, saffron rice
pudding served with cream and dewberry
jam. Ancient grain varieties that ourish
here can be traced back to the Bronze Age.
Every excursion promised fresh
curiosities, from abandoned windmills
to medieval churches. Bleak but beautiful,
the rocky, reedy terrain in the north is
punctuated by curly-grey-eeced sheep,
the distinctive, diagonally-bound roughwood fences and the occasional caf such
as Kutens Bensin with its vintage trucks
parked outside. Hunting for fossils
among the raukar, the islands famous
sea-sculpted limestone formations, won
hands down on any over-priced themepark outing. And it is true to say that the
stretches of white-sand dunes and crystal

waters could rival any Mediterranean coast
(despite being a few degrees colder).
Signs for loppis abound (loppa in
Swedish means ea), and many owners
hold garage sales even if theyre not
at home. This open-door ethos extends
to the honesty-box farm shops. When we
paused in Burgsvik for the loppi, stallholders urged us to help ourselves from
the piles of bric--brac. Really? We can
have any three toys for free? marvelled
Ale. Recycling and sustainability
are paramount here, and the islanders are
justiably proud of their pristine
environment. It takes a little longer to
get here than other bits of Sweden, but
thats part of the adventure. Gotland
exists in a free-spirited world of its own.
105
We played
hide-and-seek among
the wild orchids
that grow here like
weeds, and picked
wildowers to press
bicycles encourage you to explore this

hauntingly beautiful terrain. For utter
solitude, book one of the contemporary
freestanding suites in the woods. Lrbro
(+46 498 223040; www.furillen.com);
doubles from about 200
Stelor Hotel
Karin Cedergren has transformed a
few farm buildings on the main road
south of Visby into a popular restaurant
with six stylish bedrooms. Its come a
long way since 2012 when Cedergren, a
teacher by day, was dishing up traditional
dishes such as home-made soups. Theres
a two-acre plot of woodland with rope
swings and curly haired Gutabaggen ram
to feed, and youre only minutes from
the beach. Instead of hi-tech design,
theres yoga and cinema screenings in
the barn. Dont miss the Sunday barbecue
of juicy lamb and fresh-herb salads
produce here is extra sweet as Gotland
gets so much more sun than the rest of
Sweden or the breakfasts of nut-rich
muesli, smoked hams and kicking lter
coffee. Vstergarn Stelor 117 (+46 707
960128; www.stelor.se); doubles from 190
WHERE TO EAT
Djupvik
WHERE TO STAY
Jakobs Gotland
Fabriken Furillen
This is a holiday house with the soul

of a boutique hotel. A fully tted
kitchen, larder and large dining-room
table mean entertaining here is a
pleasure and theres a great barbecue
space outside. Its well suited for a
multigenerational family, with two
spacious double bedrooms and a single
room, although with only one bathroom
downstairs you wont want the house
to be too full; the delicate decor and
spiral staircase are not suitable for
toddlers. Owners Anna and Andi
Granger also have exciting plans for
the huge barn at the back. Eksta Jakobs
409, Klintehamn (www.jakobsgotland.
com); from 600 a week
A mountain of gravel marks the unlikely

and dramatic setting for this 17-room hotel
and restaurant at an abandoned quarry.
Set on a remote eastern peninsula, its hard
to believe Furillen was in military use
until the 1990s. The hotel is the brainchild
of photographer Johan Hellstrm, and
every inch of the interior is staggeringly
stylish. Concrete oors and heavy chains
are nods to its previous life, but instead of
the whirr of industry, the only noises
youre likely to hear in the restaurant are
the clatter of heavy cutlery on handmade
Scandinavian pottery and the murmur of
discerning guests appreciating the artfully
arranged ingredients that were plucked
just metres from their seats. Sheppskult
108
Set back from the road and facing out to

sea, this hotel restaurant has an outdoor
deck and a small plunge pool. Light-lled
and family-friendly, it is celebrated for its
sea-inspired and seasonal menu (asparagus
in spring, wild trufes in November).
Be sure to seek out the Viking memorial
in the neighbouring eld; traditionally
when a longboat was lost at sea, an
outline of the ship was created with each
stone representing a man lost. Klintehamn
(+46 498 244272; www.djupvikhotel.com);
dinner about 90 for two
Hemma Hos Ulrika

Opened last year by charismatic cookbook
writer Ulrika Davidsson, this converted
pigsty holds healthy supperclub dinners
throughout the summer; theres no
menu, just whatever Ulrika has picked up
from market (Ronehamn sh, Gotland
lamb) or her garden that day, as well
as the occasional guest speaker. Hemse
(+46 498 700 914440; www.hemma
hosulrika.se); dinner about 65 for two
Konditori Norrgatt
A 1940s wood-panelled bakery and
corner cafeteria so fantastically dated that
its hipper than anything youll nd in
The white-sand
dunes and crystal
waters could rival
any Mediterranean
coast. Despite
being a few
degrees colder
This page, indoors and out at

the Jakobs Gotland farmhouse,
with excursions to the streets
of Visby, right, windmills and
the elds of Holmhllar. Opposite,
the dining room at Hemma
Hos Ulrika. Previous pages, in the
garden at Jakobs Gotland
Londons Dalston. Cabinets packed with

sweet cookies, just-baked cakes, and
generously lled sandwiches can be picked
up for ka, the Swedish take on an
elevenses-style snack. Brovg 1, Visby
(+46 498 213234; www.norrgatt.se)
Bakfickan
Meaning back pocket, this small restaurant
makes simple but tasty traditional dishes
such as sh soup with aioli, smoked shrimps
on toast and pickled Baltic herring with
caviar sauce. You can also buy seafood (llet
of perch, perhaps) to take home. Stora
Torget (+46 498 271807; www.bakckanvisby.nu). Dinner about 60 for two
Crperie Tati
tree house and play area, and an art

studio. Toftavgen 20 (+46 498 288058;
www.levakungslador.se)
Burgsvik Loppis
Tucked away east of the main road in
town, this hut and warehouse is crammed
full of curios, cushions and kitsch trinkets.
You might wish you had a trailer to carry
everything back home.
Toggas
Right by the entrance to the airport,
this is the best outlet for thrift-shop
treasures. Oily hardware segues to chic
homeware via Swedish second-hand vinyl
and memorabilia. Lummelundsvg 49,
Visby (+46 498 50184; www.toggas.se)
Kutens Bensin may look like a 1950s

gas station with its yard of rusty trucks,
and a motorbike once ridden by James
Dean, but the restaurant is so quirky
its an Instagrammable fantasy. You wont
mind having to queue up for galettes
oozing savoury cheese llings, and
indulgent pancakes with names such as
Sympathy for the Devil. Swedes make
up most of the visitors to Fr, and
theyre a handsome bunch. Broskogs,
Fr (+46 70 203 8924; www.kuten.se)
Krsbrsgrden Konsthall
& Skulpturpark
A former botanical garden transformed
into an art hall, this has an intriguing
mix of ceramics, artworks and microinstallations: its currently showcasing
Japans Gutai group; in July theres a
show of Swedens newest talents. Snoop
around the handpicked, reasonably priced
collection of interior and design objects
from toiletries to glassware then treat
yourself to home-made carrot cake in the
caf. Sundre Vstergrde 135, Burgsvik
(+46 498 498229; www.korsbarsgarden.se)
WHERE TO SHOP & PLAY

Visby
Park outside this pastel-toned town on
the coast, and take a stroll through its
cobbled streets to the main square.
Walk down Hstgatsbacken and into
H10 Caf & Bar (+46 498 249410) and
youll discover locally made furniture
by GAD and Acne clothes, as well as
an art gallery. Akantus (Sankt Hansplan;
+46 498 212888; www.akantusvisby.se)
is an inspired capsule of old and new,
from Klippan throws to vintage crockery.
Head to Klinten, the highest point in
the Old Town, for a view of the cathedral
and over the rooftops to the sea. Theres a
guided tour of the town every Wednesday
and Saturday at 11am, leaving from the
Gotland Active Store on Hamngtan.
Eksta
Bergman Centre
Ingmar Bergman is considered by many
to be the greatest lm director of all time;
cineastes make the pilgrimage to this
cultural centre celebrating his life and
work. Bergman shot seven lms during his
40 years living on Fr; Passion of Anna
(1969) conveys the setting enchantingly in
black and white. Fr (+46 498 226868;
www.bergmancenter.se)
Etelhems Krukmakeri
MAP: MARIKO JESSE
Leva Kungslador
Every element in this creative complex
exemplies a design ethos where form
always matches function. Hausfabrik
is a homeware store that manages to
make string, paper clips and gardening
tools look exotic, especially when teamed
with coffee-table architectural books
and colourful soft furnishings. Theres a
hammock by the horsechestnut-sheltered
See how the Gotlandic clay is extracted

then make your own pots at one of the
countrys oldest potteries if yours turn
out badly you can buy one from the shop.
Etelhem Tnglings 711, Stnga (+46 498
494035; www.krukmakeri.com); open
between 1 June31 August
Above, shing nets at Sysneudd. Opposite,
playing on the limestone rocks at Hoburgen
Follow the road along this rocky coast

and look out to the Stora and Lilla Karls
islands. Explore the caves at Stora Frvar
carved from limestone cliffs, and hunt for
fossils on the pebbly beach at Hoburgen,
the southernmost tip of the island.
GETTING THERE
Norwegian Air (www.norwegian.com)

and SAS Scandinavian Airlines
(www.ysas.com) y from London and
various regional UK airports to Stockholm.
The ight from Stockholm to Gotland
takes about 35 minutes: try Gotlandsflyg
(+46 498 222222; www.gotlandsy.se).
Destination Gotland (+46 771 223300;
www.destinationgotland.se) transports
cars and passengers from Nynshamn and
Oskarshamn on the mainland on a
three-hour ferry ride. The easiest way to
get around on Gotland is by car: there are
several hire companies both at the airport
and the ferry terminal in Visby. For more
information, visit Inspiration Gotland
(www.gotland.info)
111
Out of this world
JOIN FOR FREE

Become a subscriber and you will automatically join
the Cond Nast Traveller Members Club
to receive fantastic deals and special offers every month
MEMBERS
CLUB
THS
THIS MON
AMAZING DEALS FOR SUBSCRIBERS
HIP HOLIDAY WEAR
Luxury kaftan brand, Tallulah & Hope, are offering subscribers 30% off their brand new
collection and free international shipping. Items include beach wear, cover-ups, dresses
and their recently launched bespoke kaftan collection for The Luxury Collection Hotels
Asia Pacic. Just visit www.tallulahandhope.com and quote CNT30 at the checkout. Valid from
5 May to 30 June 2014. Subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply.
O
FLIP FLOP FASHION
Flip op brand, Gandys, are offering subscribers 15% off their men and womens ip ops online.
Started by two brothers who were orphaned in the Boxing Day Tsunami, they are on a mission to
help fellow orphans. To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the tsunami, the brothers are on
target to sell 230,000 of ip ops, enabling them to open their rst childrens home. To redeem this
offer, visit www.gandysipops.com and enter CNT15 at checkout.
O
SINGAPORE SOJOURN
Subscribers receive a 25% saving on the Stay Refreshed room package at the Fullerton Hotel,
Singapore. The offer includes; accommodation in a Heritage Room with a one-way limousine
transfer, Straits Club privileges, daily Champagne breakfast, afternoon tea and cocktails.To book,
call +65 6533 8388 or email reservations @fullertonhotel.com, quoting CNT UK. Valid for travel from 1 June to
31 August 2014 (book by 30 June 2014). Terms and conditions apply. Black-out dates apply.
**Cond Nast Publications Ltd accepts no responsibility for any of the Members Club offers. Terms and conditions apply.
subscription offers
TREAT YOURSELF OR A FRIEND AND SAVE 40%
12 ISSUES ONLY 29
PLUS A FABULOUS FREE GIFT FROM AETHIC*
O
GR
FOR EAT
Y
OR AOU
P
RESE
A FR NT FOR
IEND
This month receive the FREE GIFT of Aethic Sve

Sunscreen SPF 15, RRP 40*
The rst broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect and moisturise your skin whilst leaving the
ocean intact. Aethic looks after your skin and the environment. Its rst product, Sve, is
probably the worlds most complete sunscreen. It contains three sun lters for superior
protection and three organic moisturisers. Uniquely, its also marine-positive - most
sunscreens pollute the sea and kill coral, but Sve has been specially formulated and
scientically tested not to damage delicate aquatic life.
Automatically join the subscribers-only

Cond Nast Traveller Members Club**
with lots of discounts on holidays and luxury goods.
TO SUBSCRIBE
www.cntraveller.com/subscribe/CCT11073

0844 848 5202 (REF CCT11073)
12 ISSUES FOR ONLY 29! SAVING 40% + FREE GIFT FROM AETHIC*
YOUR DETAILS
REF CCT11073
With your email address we can manage your subscription and update
you on services. Also as a CNTRAVELLER subscriber you will automatically
join our reader panel and be notied of exclusive invitations, discounts
and special offers from CNTRAVELLER or Cond Nast, publishers of
CNTRAVELLER. If you would like to receive additional offers direct
from selected partners approved by Cond Nast please tick this box .
Email:
Mrs/Ms/Miss/Mr
Surname:
Address:
Postcode:
Telephone:
Mobile:
Name:
YOUR DIRECT DEBIT GUARANTEE
OTHER PAYMENT OPTIONS
MONEY BACK GUARANTEE

I enclose a cheque made payable to Cond Nast Traveller
Cancel at any time and receive a full refund on any
magazines yet to be mailed.
RENEWAL GUARANTEE
Upon expiry your subscription by direct debit will be

automatically renewed at the same discounted rate. If the cover price increases thereafter we
will advise you at least ten days in advance.
Originators identication no: 850381
DIRECT DEBIT PAYMENT
TO THE MANAGER (Bank name)
Branch address:
Postcode:
Account in the name of:
Branch sort code:
/
/
Account number:
Signature:
OR

I would like to pay by AMEX / VISA / MASTERCARD /
MAESTRO (ISSUE NUMBER
)
Card number:
Start date:
Expiry date:
Date:
INSTRUCTION TO YOUR BANK OR BUILDING SOCIETY: Please pay The Cond Nast Publications Ltd direct debits from
the account details in this instruction subject to the safeguards assured by the Direct Debit Guarantee. I understand that
this instruction may remain with The Cond Nast Publications Ltd and, if so, details will be passed electronically to my
Bank/Building Society. Banks and Building Societies may not accept direct debit instructions from some types of account.
Signature:
date:
* Offer is limited to new subscribers at UK addresses until 02/06/2014. Subject to availability. Full price for a one-year subscription in the UK is 47.88. For overseas and all enquiries email cntraveller@subscription.co.uk or call
+44 1858 438 815.
A TRAVELLERS TALES
AROUND THE WORLD WITH
EMILY BLUNT
PHOTOGRAPH: ART+COMMERCE/CARTER SMITH
Having survived Miranda in The Devil Wears Prada and reigned supreme as The
Young Victoria, the actress is now fighting aliens with Tom Cruise in Edge of Tomorrow
Where have you just returned from?
London. I live in LA now, and coming
home always feels like receiving a big
hug. I grew up near Richmond Park, so
usually Ill head straight from the airport
to my mums house, have a cup of tea
and go for a walk. I feel very proud saying
I am from London; I love being able to
put that stamp on my identity.
Where in the world have you
felt happiest?
My husband [the actor John Krasinski]
and I went to visit some friends in
Ojai, this beautiful old hippy town in
California, and we were driving around
when suddenly I felt like I was going to
cry. I said to him, I dont know why, but
I feel like I belong here. A year and a
half later, we bought a house there. Its
the best thing weve ever done; an escape
from everything to do with the business.
Name a place that most lived up
to the hype
Last spring, we went on a fantastic
three-week trip to Bhutan. We did a
four-and-a-half-hour hike to the top of
a mountain, where there was a beautiful,
eighth-century Buddhist temple with
incredible views. It was wild.
Whats your favourite city?
I love Florence for the extraordinary art,
and because its the most romantic place
Ive ever visited. Its somehow less intense
than Rome, which I also love because
I lived there for three months. Im a huge
fan of New York City, too. We used to
have a place in Tribeca and I miss all
that hustle and bustle.
Describe your favourite view
Theres this thing in Ojai called a pink
moment, which only happens in about
two other valleys in the world. When the
sun sets, it is reected by the water, and
the sky and mountains go bright pink. It
only lasts for about ve minutes, but we
have some amazing Instagram shots!
What do you pack first?
I always take Kiehls Crme de Corps
moisturiser wherever I go, because I
feel like my skin turns into a dragons
scales when I travel. Its good to pack
if youre going somewhere cold, or if you
want to maintain a tan.
Describe a memory from a

childhood holiday
My mum and dad had a timeshare on
a villa in Portugal, so we went there for
many years. Its where I learnt how to
swim, and I have this image of my dad
treading water in the deep end, trying
to get me to jump off the diving board.
Where did you go on your first
holiday without your parents?
I remember staying in an army tent in the
Lake District on a school trip. I managed
to arrive late, so my sleeping bag wasnt
even on the tarpaulin, it was in the mud.
We had to do things like orienteering,
which was a nightmare because I never
have any idea where Im going.
IM A HUGE FAN
OF TEQUILA. BUT
THEN I USUALLY END
UP IN A KARAOKE
BAR AFTER
Tell us about a great little place
you know
The Hemingway Bar at the Four Seasons
Hotel George V in Paris: they make the
best Martinis. I think we actually stole a
coaster as a reminder because we liked it
so much. And my favourite pub is The
Sun Inn in Barnes, which has live music
and amazing Sunday roasts.
Sightseeing or sun-lounger,
barefoot or bling?
I quite like lying in the sun, but my
husband really cant stand it. We try
to be kind to each other, so we will do
one holiday where I get to slob out on
a sunbed, followed by one where we do
city tours. We went on a diving trip to
Bora Bora for our honeymoon, which
sounded so frightening to me, but ended
up being a pretty existential experience.
Confess to one thing youve taken
from a hotel room
I cant believe Im admitting to actual
thievery, but one place I stayed had a
miniature pillow saying Shhhh hanging
on the door, and I took it because it
was so cute.
Who is the most interesting person

youve met on your travels?
I will never forget a Buddhist monk I
encountered in Bhutan. My beloved
Nana had passed away while John
and I were there; we visited a temple
where the energy was incredible and I
got really upset. Then this ancient monk
came over and asked my guide to
translate for us. What he said was just
extraordinary; a mind-altering experience.
He helped me a great deal.
Which foreign phrase do you use
most often?
There are certain intonations you pick
up when youre married to an American,
so Ive caught myself saying things like
Im so frus-trated, and my mum corrects
me: No, youre so frus-trated. But John
has picked up some of mine as well, so
well probably have a very confused child!
Whats your guilty pleasure?
Las Vegas: but only for one night. I love
the plane ride there, where every
passenger is full of unbridled enthusiasm
and hope. The plane ride back is the
complete opposite: someone has got
married; someones divorced
What would you most like to find
in your minibar?
Tequila. I am a huge fan, but then
usually end up at a karaoke bar after,
which is not always a good thing.
Most regrettable holiday souvenir?
These oaty, oral kaftans you dont
realise make you look like an idiot
if you wear them anywhere else but
Thailand. And shell necklaces; Ive
denitely got a few of those.
How do you relax?
Getting a massage is one of my favourite
things. The best I ever had I even
remember the name of the masseuse
was from a girl called Francine at
the Four Seasons Resort in Bora Bora.
I specically requested her three days
in a row, which must have really creeped
her out. She was probably thinking, You
must be relaxed by now
Emily Blunt was talking to Francesca
Babb. Her latest lm, Edge Of Tomorrow,
is released on 30 May
IN BRITAIN

Snowhome; the Atelier 22
apartment; Dog & Bone
and Bowler vintage shops;
Yorkshire Soap Company;
College Street. Opposite, a
sitting room at Grays Court
OUR SERIES OF INSIDER

UK GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...
YORK
Yorkshire-born Harry Pearson returns to this grand walled city to nd new independent
shops, top-class restaurants and favourite old-school haunts. Photographs by Matthew Buck
IN BRITAIN
grew up in a village on the edge of

the North Yorkshire Moors. When
my family drove to a city we went to
Newcastle or York. Leeds, far larger
than either, was not much further away,
but we never went to Leeds. We were from
the North Riding, you see, and Leeds was
in the West Riding, a land that to hear
my parents tell it was lled to the brim
with the sort of hoity-toity double-dealers
whod steal your llings when you smiled
at them and look down their noses at you
while they were doing it.
In those days, York was a city that drew
its wealth from railways and chocolate.
My fathers favourite restaurant was a
buttery run by Terrys of York the people
who make the chocolate orange (there
was once a chocolate apple, too). Up some
stairs in a venerable building overlooking
the river, it had chintzy interiors and a
help-yourself buffet. Given the appetite
for cooked meats and vinegar-soaked
vegetables in North Yorkshire, inviting
people to eat as much as they wanted was
a nancial suicide note it shut down in
the mid-1970s. After lunch, my mother
would call in at Burgins Perfumery and
my father would make his regular enquiry
after an obscure book about the Hundred
Years War at Ken Spelman Rare Books,
then wed go to Taylors for toasted teacakes.
Later, as a spotty teenager I came to
a very different version of York, visiting
the North Ridings answer to Rough Trade,
Red Rhino Records (the original label of
Pulp and The Mekons among a slew
of others), hanging around in the type of
pubs so beautifully evoked in Andrew
Martins novel of miscreant Yorkie youth
The Bobby Dazzlers, and shopping for
slogan T-shirts that my mum refused
to hang on the washing line for fear of
offending the neighbours.
Ive visited York intermittently ever
since. Tourism has replaced chocolate
as the main business, and although
Red Rhino and Terrys Buttery have long
gone, Burgins and Ken Spelman are
still trading and much of York remains,
if not exactly the same, then at least
easily recognisable. With its crammed,
narrow streets and independent shops
(including two department stores), it has
the relaxed atmosphere of a place that
has complete faith in its own permanence.
It may not have Harvey Nichols, but I
still prefer it to Leeds.
HISTORICAL
WHERE BEDDING
TO STAY Tucked away near the
Minster in its own walled
grounds, Grays Court is as grand as youd
expect of a house that once belonged to
one of Henry VIIIs many fathers-in-law
(in this case, the Duke of Norfolk). Parts
of the building date from 1080, and along
with a wood-panelled Jacobean gallery,
theres also a Georgian Room designed
by Laurence Sternes uncle, Jacques.
The elegant and comfortable bedrooms
are all different: some have marble
replaces, others bow windows with
commanding views of the city; one has
a William IV four-poster bed. Chapter
House Street (+44 1904 612613; www.
grayscourtyork.com). Doubles from 175
A FLAT WITH FLAIR

Atelier 22 is a self-contained apartment
to rent, ve minutes walk from the city
centre. The owners have converted the
lower ground oor of their Victorian home
into a bright, chic space with a Parisian
feel. 22 St Marys (+44 1904 655218; www.
atelier22york.com). From 140 per night;
minimum stay two nights
ONE TO WATCH
A Georgian townhouse near the river, the
Judges Lodgings was recently taken over
by Thwaites brewery, which also owns
The Fleece at Cirencester. It is undergoing
major renovations and is due to reopen in
August as a hotel, restaurant and cellar bar.
9 Lendal (+44 1904 638733; www.judges
lodgingsyork.co.uk). Doubles from 100
Clockwise from left: vases at Snowhome; a

sales assistant at Dog & Bone vintage shop;
The Imaginarium; The Star Inn the City; a
replace and the exterior of Grays Court;
Snowhome; oils at The Hairy Fig deli
as its base, delivering enough caffeine to

have you running around the city walls.
2 Kings Square (+44 1904 630631)
BEER, BAR FOOD AND

BELGIAN ECCENTRICITY
Ruritania and rural Flanders come to mind
at The House of Trembling Madness, a bar
above a speciality beer shop. Animal heads
are mounted on the walls, and there are
surreal decorative touches reminiscent
of Belgian pubs such as Antwerps Elfde
Gebod. To drink, theres cider from the
rare-apple orchard at nearby Ampleforth
and several hundred types of beer. The
hearty menu includes a beef-and-ale stew
that would have put a smile on the face
of Pieter Bruegel. 48 Stonegate (+44 1904
640009; www.tremblingmadness.co.uk).
About 30 for two
NICE AND EASY EATING

Chef Michael Hjorts main restaurant,
Meltons, has been a xture in York for
more than 20 years; Meltons Too is its
younger, more relaxed sister bistro, with
a restaurant upstairs and a casual bar and
snug below. Good sharing dishes include
home-cured bresaola and smoked salmon
from Mackenzies in Blubberhouses. Theres
delicious goats cheese from Raywell
and a sound apple crumble. 25 Walmgate
(+44 1904 629222; www.meltonstoo.co.uk).
About 50 for two
BEST USE OF RHUBARB

WHERE STELLAR SPOT
TO EAT The Star Inn the City is the
& DRINK latest venture from chef
Andrew Pern, owner of the
award-garlanded Star Inn at Harome, near
Helmsley. By contrast with the quaintness
of that village pub, its an ultra-modern
glass-and-wood cube overlooking the River
Ouse. The food, however, is true to Perns
original vision: top-class local ingredients
imaginatively used. Braised ox cheeks
come with blue Wensleydale, beetroot
and juniper risotto; soused Hartlepool
halibut with homemade dill vodka. Theres
Pontefract-cake ice cream to follow.
Its open for breakfast, too, if you fancy
a Full Yorkshire. Lendal Engine House,
Museum Street (+44 1904 619208; www.
starinnthecity.co.uk). About 90 for two
A LITTLE PIECE OF POLAND

Head to The Barbakan Caf & Restaurant
for authentic, hearty Polish fare that acts
as a kind of internal stove: pork-stuffed
cabbage leaves; pierogi with fresh pot
cheese; pancakes lled with buckwheat
and vegetables. The cakes, including a
very ne ginger one, perhaps owe more
to Yorkshire than Warsaw, but theres
nothing wrong with that. 58 Walmgate
(+44 1904 672474; www.deli-barbakan.
co.uk). About 40 for two
EYE-OPENING COFFEE
Hidden away above the Harlequin caf,
The Attic has leather sofas, bentwood
chairs and the best espresso to be found
outside Italy. The award-winning baristas
also serve up a latte with a double ristretto
Goji Caf is a vegetarian spot offering

Mediterranean-inuenced dishes such
as cumin-and-lime baked sweet potatoes
with chickpea tagine. There are excellent
vegan cakes, including a lemon-andpoppyseed one that is as sumptuous as
you can get without involving cows. The
cranachan, in which the usual raspberries
are replaced with rhubarb, is a winner,
too. 36 Goodromgate (+44 1904 622614;
www.gojicafe.co.uk). About 45 for two
FIXINGS FOR A PICNIC

Originally a tiny deli, The Hairy Fig has
now spread to the shop next door. An
improbably wide range of well-chosen
goods is crammed inside. Theres 100-yearold balsamic vinegar, wonderful olive oil,
fantastic chocolates by Lauden of Leeds
and about 40 types of cheese, including
IN BRITAIN
Andrew Ridleys cloth-wrapped
Richard III Wensleydale. Somehow they
have also managed to t in a small caf
at the back. 39 Fossgate (+44 1904 677074;
www.thehairyg.co.uk)
CATCH IT IF YOU CAN

A tiny shop with neither sign nor website,
Via Vecchia is the place to pick up
freshly made bread from award-winning
baker Alistair Lawton. Specialities
include pesto rolls, ciabatta, cinnamonand-raisin bagels and a cheese-and-Marmite
loaf. The bakery opens early and shuts
when the bread runs out. Lawton also
supplies bread to The Hairy Fig and
The House of Trembling Madness, so if
youre thwarted by the singular opening
hours, there is still hope. 6 The Shambles
(+44 1904 627701)
Clockwise from this

picture: Dog &
Bone; The Inkwell;
Snowhome
1950s school desks, the record racks are

old bakers trays, and there are Bob Dylan
lyrics painted on the wall. Turned-up jeans
and round glasses are more or less de
rigueur for staff and patrons. 10 Gillygate
(+44 7846 610777; www.ink-well.co.uk)
LEAVE THE GUN,

TAKE THE CANNOLI
Bright, airy and run by an amiable
crew of Sicilians, Trinacria does great
granita and several dozen avours of
artisanal gelato. If you dont feel like ice
cream, there are also very ne arancine,
a ne parmigiana, and ricotta-stuffed
cannoli that are so good they may have
been the ones Peter Clemenza spent so
long driving around looking for in The
Godfather. 27 Bishopthorpe Road (+44
1904 640104; www.trinacriacafebar.co.uk).
About 40 for two
LETS GET RETRO
TAPAS AND TIPPLES

Cabra Verde serves excellent tapas such
as goat stew, spiced pork belly, and squid
paired with black pudding, to be washed
down with a mouth-puckeringly tangy
glass of no from Bodegas Alvear. The
sweet wines include a Pedro Ximnez
that tastes like liquid Christmas pudding
and more than justies having a crema
catalana or a slice of cured Manchego.
Theres also a Cabra Verde deli on Lendal,
full of goodies from suppliers including the
Haxby Bakehouse and the York Coffee
Emporium. 1 Peter Lane (+44 1904 652920;
www.cabraverde.co.uk). Tapas for two 25
TEA, CAKES AND COMFORT

Bettys is to Yorkshire what Ladure is to
Paris (though Bettys does not sell its
wares anywhere outside its home region).
People may moan about this gilded palace
of sensible cakes being a bit of a clich,
but sitting here with a pot of tea and a fat
rascal (a type of rock bun), surrounded by
county ladies in their Lavenham jackets
and pearls, the staff scurrying around in

white pinnies, you feel that no matter how
difcult life is, everything will turn out all
right. 68 St Helens Square (+44 1904
659142; www.bettys.co.uk)
WHERE
TO
SHOP
NORDIC CHIC
York is a Viking city, and

the design shop Snowhome
wouldnt look out of place
in Copenhagen. Youll nd Chinese scissors
and lunch boxes that are a polypropylene
version of the Asian tifn box. The shops
own range of furniture, designed by John
Green, includes a bent-plywood bookcase
with a utilitarian elegance similar to that
of Finlands Iittala brand. 42 Gillygate (+44
1904 671155; www.snow-home.co.uk)
FOR THE RECORD

A hipster hangout you might expect to nd
in Shoreditch, The Inkwell is devoted to
old and new vinyl, pop-culture books and
artefacts, and good coffee. The tables are
Aside from a branch of high-end northern

fashion chain Van Mildert on Blake Street,
York is a bit short of decent clothes shops.
The closure of the Coggles boutique
didnt help (though the website is still run
from the city). On the upside, a large
student population ensures that there are
stores selling vintage wear, two of the best
being Dog & Bone and Bowler. They
have racks of tweed jackets and lots of
Sixties dresses in man-made bres that
whip up an electrical storm of static. Dog
& Bone, 36 Gillygate (+44 1904 624067).
Bowler, 52 Fossgate (+44 1904 630407)
MAD ABOUT THE HOUSE

Step inside the fantastically eccentric
world of The Imaginarium to nd quirky
home accessories including candles from
True Grace, Ibride tea trays, textile art by
Mr Finch and whimsical animal jewellery
from And Mary. 6 Blake Street (+44 1904
466642; www.theimaginariumyork.com)
GET IN A LATHER
At rst glance you may think you have
found a Parisian patisserie, but in fact this
is The Yorkshire Soap Company. Its
products come in an amazing variety of
convincing disguises, including delicate
pastries and even a four-tier wedding
cake. 10 Blake Street (+44 1904 655820;
www.theyorkshiresoapcompany.co.uk)
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION
bustling avenues to unearth hidden treasures

including jewellery, antiques, art, oils and spices.
Many people dont equate Dubai with any kind of
nature beyond the desert but Jumeirah has
introduced a hugely successful turtle rehabilitation
programme (based at Madinat Jumeirah). The project
has seen the successful release of many turtles back
into the Arabian Gulf, two of which have been tted
with transmitters to track their journeys. Kids will also
love Jumeirah Beach Hotel with its vast array of
activities for every age. From Sinbads Kids Club to
endless water sports and direct access to Wild Wadi
Waterpark.
And while the kids are entertained, parents can sneak
off for some serious pampering. The Talise Ottoman
Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray offers almost limitless
treatment options, while the water-enveloped Talise
no ordinary
world
Jumeirah is more than just a luxury hotel chain.

It is an experiential brand with a one-of-a-kind service
ethos. We check out what the summer has in store...
hen the Burj Al Arab opened in 1999, the

world woke up to a new type of luxury travel,
courtesy of the pioneering Dubai-based
Jumeirah Group. Since then, JUMEIRAH has
continued to break boundaries, nding new,
imaginative approaches to go above and beyond what
is expected of a luxury hotel chain.
Jumeirah is all about the experience; from the truly

remarkable Burj Al Arab and the vast waterways of
Madinat Jumeirah, to the beehives on top of Jumeirah
Frankfurt and the sand-sculpted chairs in the Maldives,
guests enter into the extraordinary. This summer there
are even more unique experiences in the ofng...
Clockwise from top:

Jumeirah Turtle
Rehabilitation Programme;
Sunken Dug Beach Dining
at Jumeirah Dhevanafushi
in the Maldives; Scott's
Restaurant at Jumeirah at
Etihad Towers in Abu
Dhabi; Talise Ottoman Spa
at Jumeirah Zabeel
Saray in Dubai
feels like royalty

When it comes to luxury, Jumeirah knows no bounds.
The Burj Al Arab is a once-in-a-lifetime experience in
itself and anyone staying here feels like royalty. Guests
can go one step further and arrive by helicopter (taking
in a 15-minute birds-eye view of the city) before
landing on the 28th oor, walking the red carpet and
being welcomed by a brigade of butlers. For the more
culture-orientated, there is a contemporary Middle
Eastern art exhibition currently on show throughout
Jumeirah Creekside Hotel. Local culture is also
thriving in Madinat Jumeirahs souk. Take an abra
down the winding waterways (linking Al Qasr, Mina
ASalam and Dar Al Masyaf) and then explore the
Spa at Madinat Jumeirah tailors everything to the

individual. Jumeirah always provides food for thought
by boasting an exceptional culinary scene. While the
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers is one of the most talked
about food destinations in Abu Dhabi, quality and
quantity are rife at Madinat Jumeirah its restaurant,
bar and lounge count has a dizzying array of options
that range from terric Thai to quaffable cocktails.
This summer, romance is on the cards at the magical
Jumeriah Dhevanafushi, Maldives where guests can
dine under the stars on sand-sculpted tables.
For further information on Jumeirahs
portfolio of luxury Hotels, Resorts and
Residences, visit jumeirah.com
1953
The day I was Queen...
Or at least that is how it felt. The year was 1953

and it was Elizabeth IIs coronation. In similar pomp
and ceremony I was delivered in a large box tied
with a big sash bow. I was delicately lifted out from
layers of white tissue paper then carefully slipped
on with regal elegance. Everyones attention was
on the small nine-inch television dwarfed in its
walnut cabinet. That is until I swirled into the room.
To be continued...
www.oxfam.org.uk/vintage
THE EXPERTS
This months Family Health Food Books Advice

EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON
WHAT YOU WANT

The best yoga
instructor on the beach
WHO YOU NEED

Stefano Allegri at
Florblanca in Costa Rica
Drawn to Costa Rica 22 years ago because of its
peaceful politics and lack of an army, Milaneseborn Allegri set up a vegetarian restaurant and
tattoo parlour on the Nicoya Peninsula. But for
the past decade or so he has been practising
yoga at Florblanca, a gorgeous beachfront
hideaway surrounded by jungle in Santa Teresa.
Allegri learnt from Sri K Pattabhi Jois in Mysore,
the brains behind ashtanga, and now teaches it,
and vinyasa, to all levels. To prepare, he picks
a few petals from the garden, scatters them
around the wooden oor of his ocean-view
studio, lights a candle and incense, and meditates.
Its all about the relationship between movement
and breath, he says. When youre aware of the
breath, its like a magical power you can use
to create peace. If youre a beginner, hell ask you
to close your eyes and then demonstrate by
breathing slowly and deeply so close to your ear
it tickles. Whether a rst-timer or an old hand,
students will be pushed so hard their legs start
to shake; but Allegri puts people at ease with
amusing references to Bruce Lee and Mick
Jaggers hips (eeps in his heavy Italian accent).
And he doesnt just teach Florblanca guests;
hes a local legend and strapping surf dudes roll
up for class after catching their early-morning
waves. www.orblanca.com
EMMA LOVE
THE EXPERTS... GADGETS
GEEK GEAR
By George Duffield
SOULRA FRX3
X-JACK BUSHRANGER
Bad name, great product. This rechargeable

weather-alert radio has a solar panel and
hand-turbine generator that can power USB
products. In short, a key item for your disaster
grab bag. www.soulracorp.com, 59.99
GERBER APOCALYPSE KIT
Car jacks are for wimps. Real men get stuck

off-road, but how does your jack cope in sand
or deep mud? Enter the X-Jack. The worlds
rst inatable jack, its a super-tough pillow
that blows up and lifts your truck clean out of
the mire. www.bushranger.com.au, about 180
Extreme? Maybe. Necessary? Absolutely. This

is the winner-takes-all man bag: a selection of
blades, axes and blunt trauma items. When the
world ends, youll need it. Dont show it to your
partner or children. Hide it and sleep well knowing
you have it. www.gerbergear.com, about 210
ESSENTIAL APPS
Drive on Moscow
A highly tactical war game.
Represent the Germans or
the Russians in the critical
1941 Moscow campaign.
Change history, or repeat
it. Leave Temple Run to
the kids. iTunes, 2.99
Mixology
An indispensable cocktailmixing app, with a useful
function where you list the
ingredients you have and
it spits out your options.
Easier than going to the
corner shop. iTunes, free
Movies by Flixster
This Rotten Tomatoesenabled app gives you
access to the latest
reviews and showtimes so
you can pick the best lm
for your date. iTunes, free
ILLUSTRATION: HEATHER GATLEY
It might be socially unacceptable to say that most geeks are men, but who can
really deny it? Here the Geek unlocks the testosterone vault to bring you objects
of desire for your man cave. You may never use them all, but you must have them
THE BEST FAMILY

HOLIDAYS
FROM
CHILD-FRIENDLY
SAFARIS TO
SHORT-HAUL
SUMMER ESCAPES
FIND THEM ALL ON
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES
CNTRAVELLER.COM
+ GUIDES TO EVERYWHERE + INSPIRING FEATURES & IDEAS +DAILY NEWS

+TRAVEL Q&A + GREAT HOTEL DEALS
Like us at www.facebook.com/cntraveller
Follow us at www.twitter.com/cntraveller
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY
ADVENTURES IN CHINA
The clash of old and new, traditional and
outlandish in Beijing and beyond is an
endless thrill, as Geordie Greig discovered
China is heaven for teenagers: safe,
sensational and seriously good fun; an
ancient kingdom, but also a manically
developing modern superpower. Jasper,
my 15-year-old son, read that a 202-storey
building was being erected in four months
in Chudong and wondered aloud why
we had taken so much longer renovating
our house in London. The local names
alone Forbidden City, Dragon Lady,
House Where All Dreams Come True
promised adventure and spice.
Nothing on our trip to China was ever
quite as expected: the palaces, powerbiking in the mountains, bamboo-forest
treks, tai-chi masterclasses, food beyond
our dreams and sometimes our nightmares
live, belching toad was not 13-year-old
Monicas rst choice or shopping
galore (Octavia, Monicas twin, became
spectacularly ruthless at bargaining in the
markets). We found a land of Buddhas and
Bentleys, paddy elds, and stalls selling
wriggling insects; super-Zen skyscrapers
and medieval, labyrinthine city alleyways.
We saw crickets trained for insane
races and ghting, with daily bets across
the nation running into the millions.
Our holiday was also textured with
history, legend and laughter by us and
at us. The Chinese are delightfully
friendly and, with their one-child policy,
a family with three blond-ish teenagers
is guaranteed to turn heads. Please,
you stand while we take picture, was
a repeated request.
our trip was about four big hits: Beijing,
Xian (once the most powerful city on
earth and now the burial home of the
Terracotta Warriors), Shanghai and the
bamboo forests in Moganshan. We started
in Tiananmen Square, the worlds largest
and most arid urban space and, of
course, the site of 1989s famous tank
stand-off and massacre awe-inspiring in
its scale (41 hectares) and security (it has
the highest concentration of surveillance
cameras in all of China). Beijing is
imperial and splendid, especially the

Forbidden City, the vast residence
of the emperors. Why are there steps to
every room, asked Jasper? Answer: to
keep out the spirits, as Chinese ghosts
have no feet. The more steps to your
house, the more status you have; fairytale
logic like this was never far away.
Our hotel, the supremely comfortable
St Regis Beijing, was grand but served
up cultural wonders that made my
childrens eyes pop. Breakfast could be
as bizarre as you wished: pork chops with
lotus roots, or boiled eggs fresh or the
thousand year-old version. The food in
Beijing was always delicious. We ate at
street stalls such as Beijings last state-run
caf, as well as at the Aman at Summer
Palace. Donkeys penis was spotted on
one menu, eliciting interminable giggles
from the kids, who were cross that I
wouldnt fork out 26 for that particular
delicacy. The ve of us ate like emperors
for as little as 20, our chopsticks clickclacking with increasing dexterity each day.
One morning, we signed up for a
session with a tai-chi tutor in the Temple
Of Heaven park. Master Liu casually
mentioned he had appeared in the TV
comedy travelogue series An Idiot

Abroad, which, for Jasper, was almost
as cool as when we landed at Heathrow
and found the model Cara Delevingne
standing next to us at the baggage
carousel. We saw red fan-dancers on
the grass, synchronised hand-clappers
(apparently its good for your health),
an impromptu marriage market on a park
bench (husband must have decent car
and be 1.8m tall) and group days out
with 70 ofce staff in matching acidorange T-shirts. We were fascinated by 798
Art Zone the artists quarter and by
markets lled with jade, Mao memorabilia,
knock-off CDs and a million trinkets. And
that was all before seeing the Great Wall,
just one hours drive from downtown
Beijing. The Wall deed disappointment.
It looks like a dragons tail that vanishes

into the distant mountains: magical,
Clockwise from opposite: a cricket for sale at
market; the Red Capital Residence bar; The St
Regis Beijing, the citys business district;
Chanel boutique at the Peninsula Shanghai
curving and astonishing. Our guide

made sure we found the least crowded
part, starting at the Mutianyu section,
which has some of the prettiest views.
We then took the cable car, followed by
an hour-long walk. This is the best
holiday ever. I want to move to China,
said Octavia as we descended.
after the great wall, it was a short

ight to Chinas former capital, Xian,
to see the Terracotta Warriors burial
companions for its rst emperor, Qin
Shi Huang Di, who started on his
mausoleum when he was 13, in the year
246bc. At the site, we bumped into the
elderly farmer who had discovered the
statues while digging for water in 1974.
The warriors are utterly transxing in
scale, number and beauty. The pits in
which they stand, and where thousands
more remain hidden, are as mesmerising
as the pyramids of Giza.
We stayed at the former Peoples
Hotel, now the Sotel, which has the
most brilliant concierge whose local
knowledge will nd you everything
from a spare part for an electric razor
to the nest duck. We were sent off to
hire bicycles to ride along the top of
the city walls: at nine miles long, theyre
one of the worlds largest ancient city
defence systems. We pedalled on tandems
past gleaming glass towers overshadowing
the few remaining tiled houses. For 90
minutes, we raced around high above
Xian, weaving through myriad locals
and Chinese tourists as the sun set, an
orange glow on a city that has seen the
rise and fall of the Tang dynasty.
The scale of China hit us again and
again: its simply jaw-dropping. Xian
has nine million people; other cities
we had never heard of have populations
even greater. Britain suddenly felt
rather small and the central axis of the
world not so certain as when we left
London. In Shanghai, as we roared along
the side streets of the old French quarter
on three 1950s motorcycles with sidecars,
my children fantasised that we were
in a Far Eastern hybrid of Mad Max 2
and Easy Rider. Ni-hao, they yelled
at the trafc lights to a bemused
policeman. Dumpling sellers stopped
to stare. In a city where the shiniest
skyscrapers loom over traditional alleys
and market stalls, you could see the 18th
century being eclipsed by the 21st. But

somehow those old bikes provided the
raw romance and excitement we craved in
high-octane China.
Finally, we headed up into the
bamboo forests in the mountains at
Moganshan, a former colonial hill station
but now Shanghais answer to the
Hamptons. Here, a French adventurer
and his chic Hong Kong Chinese wife
have created Le Passage Mohkan
Shan, a rural retreat with Provenal
furniture, freshly baked croissants, and
escargots and trufes that would give
any Parisian brasserie a run for its money.
We took the 999-step trek up the hill
via temples, peanut farmers and stunning
views. With its cool swimming pool and
tea-plantation panoramas authentic,
individual and refreshing after the glare
and glitz of Shanghai it was the perfect
spot to wind down.
during our time in china, we learnt
to listen hard as everything we knew
or thought we knew about the country
was challenged. Zhou Enlai, the rst
premier of the Peoples Republic,
famously said when asked about the
effectiveness of the French Revolution
that it was too early to tell. China is

a nation that thinks deep and big, right
down to the electronic loos at the Park
Hyatt Beijing, which provoked teenage
titters with their options for rear or
front cleansing, oscillating, pulsating or
soft, as well as a dryer. And where else
in the world would you check into your
hotel on the 87th oor, choose your own
maggots for lunch, and have a pair of
prescription glasses made in 15 minutes?
Our summer was made in China.
Cleveland Collection (+44 20 7843 3531;
www.clevelandcollection.co.uk) can
arrange a nine-night stay in China from
2,540 per adult and 1,095 per child,
based on a family of four. This includes
British Airways ights, transfers and three
nights each at the Park Hyatt Beijing, the
Shangri-La Xian and the Grand Hyatt
Shanghai on a bed-and-breakfast basis. A
two-night extension at Le Passage Mohkan
Shan costs from 600 per adult and 150
per child on a bed-and-breakfast basis.
Clockwise from opposite: Red Capital Residence
in Beijing; Xiao Long Bao soup dumplings;
Aman at Summer Palace; inside the Temple of
Heaven, Beijing; 798 Art Zone
The scale of China

hit us again and
again; its simply
jaw-dropping.
Britain suddenly
felt rather small
Clockwise: Alter
lifestyle concept store
in Shanghai; Yuyuan
Gardens market; The
PuLi Hotel & Spa
Its difficult to beat a classic, and The

St Regis Beijing (www.starwoodhotels.
com; doubles from about 180) is assured
and awless,but the Aman at Summer
Palace (www.amanresorts.com; doubles
from 470) is undoubtedly the most
romantic place in the city: serene and
private, with grand courtyards and a secret
garden door opening to the Summer Palace.
In Shanghai, The Swatch Art Peace
Hotel (www.swatch-art-peace-hotel.com;
doubles from 445) has just four suites
and three rooms, each like an original art
installation. Behind the tall doors of this
historic building are giant bamboo beds and
bathrooms like marble caves.Its Shook!
restaurant has a brilliant American chef
who makes sensationally good tuna tartare.
Also very cool is The PuLi Hotel & Spa
(www.thepuli.com; doubles from 255),
whose Zen-chic design has decorative
echoes of the Forbidden City. In the bamboo
forest outside the city is Le Passage
Mohkan Shan (www.lepassagemogan
shan.com; doubles from 325)
INSIDE TRACK
The one name you need in the capital is

Bespoke Beijing (www.bespoke-beijing.
com). Founded by former journalist Sarah
Keenlyside, who helped launch Time Out in
China, the company and its guides can tell
you everything from the rst emperors
armour size to where to nd the most delicious
street-stall snacks.The Insiders Group
(www.insidersexpeditions.com) is run by
savvy young specialists who know every
quirky nook and cranny in Shanghai, such as
Moller Villa a fairytale mansion designed
by a tycoons 12-year-old daughter and
ancient houses set to be torn down in the
name of progress. And youll be taken there
in a 1950s sidecar.
FASHION TIP
Yes, China is full of markets selling tat, but they

are increasingly being stamped out. Fashion
brand of the moment is Shiatzy Chen, a
Chinese take on the likes of Chanel, Prada and
Valentino. The label, which has a agship store
on The Bund, Shanghais famous waterfront,
has become a regular at Paris Fashion Week.
MEET THE GENERAL
Chinas most illustrious cricket trainer the

insects, not the sport lives in a courtyard
house in Beijing with a caged bird who says
hello in Mandarin. Mr Liuspent 10 years
as a farm labourer during Maos rule before
his talent for training grasshoppers to ght
big business in Chinas betting world won
him celebrity status.Over jasmine tea and
biscuits (arranged via Bespoke Beijing, left),
The General talks cricket legends, and
alsoabout his forced exile to Mongolia.
ESSENTIAL READING
Jung Changs Wild Swans is the epic

memoir ofthree generations of women:
the authors grandmother, concubine to
a warlord; her mother and Chang herself.
Empress Dowager Cixi is Changs
biography of the woman she claims laid the
foundations for modern-day China think
Marie Antoinette meets Queen Victoria.
Rana Mitters Chinas War with
Japan is apage-turner that will challenge
your views on history, detailing how millions
of Chinese died during World War II.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW ROWAT; LIU XIANGLONG/IMAGINECHINA
WHERE TO STAY
Clockwise from this image:

Aerial view of Halaveli;
Double storey Beach Villa;
Private plunge pool in
Halaveli Water Villa
constance halaveli
hile Constance Moofushi has couples stamped
all over it, families often check into its sister,
Constance Halaveli. A blissful private island
setting (in the North Ari Atoll), its beach
accommodation is perfect for children of all ages.
There are family villas with gated gardens and
double-storey villas for those with more than two in
tow. For couples and honeymooners, the open-plan
water villas are amazing value for money and come
with innity plunge pools and direct sea access. This
is a great island for those after more action; theres a
gym, tennis and a large water sports centre offering
everything from shing, windsurng and wakeboarding to pedalos, knee boarding and banana boats.
The dive school is fantastic with the usual PADI
courses (beginners, night, wreck, deep and nitrox)
plus a host of unique courses created exclusively for
the hotel. Theres also a very good kids club (another
familial enticer) as well as the dreamy Spa de
Constance. The food is exceptional, spearheaded
by Jing, an overwater restaurant half way along
the Halaveli jetty that serves mouthwatering
Asian-inspired dishes and fabulous cocktails.
For the best of both worlds its easy to combine the
two with the luxury Constance speedboat whisking
you from one paradise to the next.
SPECIAL OFFER
SAVE up to 40 percent
Seven nights in a Water
Villa at Constance Halaveli
from 2,585 per person
including daily breakfast,
seaplane transfers and
international ights
SisteR
ACT
Turquoise Holidays cant

rave enough about the
Maldives Constance
Moofushi and Constance
Halaveli; two very different
takes on barefoot chic
For further information email enquiries@turquoiseholidays.co.uk or call 01494 678 400.

Overwater Spa de
Constance at Moofushi;
Private sandbank;
Moofushi Beach Villa
constance moofushi
nce we scoffed at the all-inclusive concept,
now its luxury reincarnation nds us gorging
on complimentary humble pie. We can now
eat and drink as much as we want at some of
the worlds best hotels without breaking into a priceinduced sweat. The castaway island of Constance
Moofushi is living proof that ve-star can go inclusive
without scrimping on the quality. We love the 100plus bottles of wine going free, the cocktail menu
that would have Tom Cruise juggling all night and the
constantly replenished mini-bars without a hobbitsized bottle in sight. And of course there is food
galore at the excellent Manta, plus one la carte meal
on the house. Alizes seafood on the beach comes
highly recommended, as does the Turquoise favourite
of lunch at Totem Bar with its tree-trunk tables and
sandy carpet. Moofushi has a dreamy simplicity that
we immediately fell for. Theres a rustic elegance to
the wooden thatched villas where Crusoe-chic meets
modern luxury (both beach and overwater villas have
direct access to the sea). The majority of the islands
facilities are included, but dont forget to save for the
amazing overwater Spa de Constance hovering above
the azure lagoon. Diving and snorkelling seals the deal
with the house reef just metres from the beach.
SPECIAL OFFER
SAVE up to 35 percent
Seven nights in a Beach Villa
at Constance Moofushi from
2,465 per person including
all inclusive meal plan,
seaplane transfers and
international ights
s cruising continues to ride its wave of

popularity, Celebrity Cruises remains the rst
port of call for inquisitive and discerning
contemporary travellers. If youre toying with
the idea of joining the cruise revolution, Celebrity
Cruises is the perfect companion to guide you through
your rst cruise experience, offering over 130 voyages
across the globe each year aboard 11 distinctive ships.
And, having just announced a raft of innovative new
itineraries for 2015/16, there couldnt be a better time
to see for yourself why cruising is one of the best ways
to discover the world.
Clockwise from far left:

Bay of Naples; the
Black Sea; Provence
in France; Relaxing
onboard at the Lawn
Club; Award-winning
restaurant Qsine's
sushi lollipops
For a gentle introduction to cruising, consider a weeklong Mediterranean voyage aboard one of Celebritys
award-winning Solstice Class ships. These majestic
oating resorts set the benchmark for luxury large ship
cruising, innovative restaurants and cafs, several
vibrant bars, a two-storey Canyon Ranch SpaClub,
indoor and outdoor swimming pools, childrens clubs,
boutiques, enriching workshops, seminars and courses,
a cinema, theatre and Celebrity iLounge as well as
the Lawn Club half an acre of manicured grass
lawn on the top deck. Boredom quite simply is
not an option.
For those looking to plunge in with a little more gusto,
the Solstice Class Celebrity Eclipse will offer fortnightlong voyages from Southampton to the Baltic, Iceland
and Norway, and to the Canaries and Azores next
summer. Starting your adventure from home turf
not only saves invaluable holiday time and cuts out
the hassle of ying but enables you to exercise
minimal restraint while shopping in local
markets and boutiques.
Celebrity Silhouette and Celebrity Constellation will
be based in Amsterdam and Venice respectively next
year. Departing from these iconic cities, just a short
hop from home, you could enjoy anything from a
12-night voyage around Scandinavia and Russia to a
fortnight-long exploration of the Adriatic or discovery

of the western Mediterranean and Holy Land.
While your rst Celebrity cruise will undoubtedly be
thrilling, you might not want to appear too green,
particularly with so many veteran Celebrity Cruises
travellers around. So here are some insider tips: if
you're a bookworm, make a beeline for the peaceful
bamboo hanging nests in the Hideaway. Sun and
croquet lovers should bag a cabana-style Alcove at the
Lawn Club. Families should book at least one night at
the hearty Tuscan Grille while romantics will swoon
BESPOKE
journeys
Celebrity Cruises thrives on giving an unexpected twist to experiences that may

already be familiar, so get ready to be taken far, far from the ordinary
for the intimate French Murano restaurant. Celebritys
brand new Canyon Ranch SpaClubs are already
proving wildly popular, so book some treatments
before you travel but also keep your eyes peeled for
in-port spa specials.
Celebrity Cruises has added several new ports to its
itineraries, so dropping these into conversation will
gain you instant kudos. Theres pretty Salerno on the
Amal Coast, the authentic, little-known alternative
to busy Sorrento; the ancient fortress town of
Fredericia in Jutland, which just missed out to
Copenhagen in becoming Denmarks capital; and
the cosmopolitan party island of Ibiza. Celebrity
has also added more and new overnight stays to its
programmes, meaning you can take a private boat
from Mykonos and enjoy sundowners on a castaway
beach; admire Istanbuls minarets, mosques and
palaces by moonlight during an evening cruise on the
Bosphorus; marvel at the Mariinsky Ballet (previously
the Kirov) in St Petersburg; or watch the sun sink into
the ocean from Dubrovniks famous Buza bar.
Wherever you chose to go for your rst cruise, upon
whichever ship, you can be safe in the knowledge that,
with Celebrity Cruises, youll remember it for all the
right reasons. However, we should probably point out
that, as winner of ten 2014 Cruise Critic Awards and
the 2014 Best Premium Cruise Company Globe

Award, your rst Celebrity Cruises voyage is highly
likely to spark the habit of a lifetime.
Prices start at 1,549 per person for a Balcony
Stateroom on a 7 night Greek Isles Fly/Cruise in
August 2014 on Celebrity Silhouette, departing
from Rome.
To discover more about Celebrity Cruises,
see the Take the Tour video, and to book,
visit celebritycruises.co.uk/cnt, call 0844
493 2047 or visit your travel agent
THE EXPERTS... FEASTING
CHORIZO
By Joanna Weinberg
There was a time before chorizo arrived on

our shores. Before people knew to sprinkle
winter dishes with pomegranate seeds and
that sourdough was a bread you had to make
yourself. Dark days indeed. Then chorizo
appeared and, kaboom! It lit up the kitchen.
It did for me what sun-dried tomatoes did for many. It could
do no wrong. I put it into everything: cottage pie, lamb stew,
onion tart. People noticed. It became a joke. Chorizo-and-apple
crumble for pudding, they would ask on arrival for lunch.
There was is reason behind this obsession. Chorizo is a
superhero of the fridge, the Defender of Flavour. It sits for days,
masquerading in its sausagey disguise, but break it open, fry it in
hot oil, and it explodes with irresistible smoky paprika and clove.
Use it as a base for another dish and you shortcut the need for
endless chopping and adding of spices: its all in there already.
Chorizo is originally from the Iberian Peninsula; a version of
it can be found in every former colony of Spain. Each village has
its own spice combination, some heavy on
chilli, others with clove or anise. It comes
in different guises. There is the cured
version, to be eaten like salami,
white pools of fat melting
on the tongue (try it with
caper berries to cut the
richness). The fresh version, which
Drink me
looks like a deep-orangey-red sausage and needs to be cooked,

comes either spicy (picante) or mild (dulce). This is the one that
goes into my everything. Its particular friends in the kitchen are
pulses: cook it up with lentils as they do in so many villages in
Spain and it becomes lentejas; crumble it into a dish of butter
beans, tomato and parsley with a garlicky, sherry-vinegar dressing
and youll look at salads in a new light. Heres a quick stew to
bridge the seasons, as you often have to do in this country.
This months recipe

First, slice your fresh chorizo into thick rounds (on the diagonal if you
want a professional look), and fry in olive oil until they turn golden.
Meanwhile, dice onion, chop garlic, and peel and cut a sweet
potato into bite-size cubes. Set the chorizo aside and in the same
pan, fry the onions until soft and translucent, add the garlic, smoked
paprika, a pinch of saffron strands and cook for a few minutes.
Now return the sausage, adding drained, rinsed chickpeas, the sweet
potato, chopped tinned tomatoes, dried
oregano, and a little water or white wine
to loosen it if necessary. Simmer for 15
minutes or until the sweet potato is tender,
season to taste and add chopped fresh
parsley and a dose of best olive oil. Its equally
delicious hot with a green salad and crusty
bread, or cooled as part of a larger spread.
By Malcolm Gluck
The world of the wine taster has many

hazards, but the deadliest and most insidious
is the so-called Show Wine. This is a wine
designed not to please any purchaser or to
accompany food. The Show Wine is made
to be irresistible in a tasting. Whereas the producer of a normal
table wine does the best (s)he can and hopes the critics
will lavish a stellar rating on it, the Show
Wine maker has no aim above that
of creating a wine so explosive it will
obliterate all others in its category. Such
a wine is rather like a streaker at a
sporting event: it gets everyones attention
in a crowded arena. The Show Wine,
placed towards the end of long tasting, is
outstanding. It detonates the taste buds
with such an orgiastic level of fruitiness
that the taster feels grateful to have found
something surprising. And so it gets top marks. But is it a wine
you can take home to mother? To take to dinner with friends?
No. It is so blatant, out of its show milieu, it is embarrassing.
Now, the fact is that when I rst tasted Cien Y Pico En Vaso
Bobal 2011 it was the 360th wine in a tasting of 622. I had so far
managed fewer than 200. When I came across the Bobal (a grape
variety peculiar to south-eastern Spain) I was already agging,

and so, as with a bosomy beauty rushing naked across a
rugby pitch, the second I saw the wines deep-purple colour
and smelled the lustiness of its aroma my attention was aroused.
And then riveted as I tasted. But was I being conned? I
wondered. I tasted the wine again. I gave it high marks and
went off and drank some water, ate a little bread and olive oil,
had a conversation or two. I returned to the
Bobal and it was even more bruisingly
delicious. Here was a unique exception to
the Show Wine rule. So I bought 12 bottles.
I served the wine to friends at my home. I
took it to BYOB restaurants. It was indeed
a Show Wine, but what it showed was how
an Australian, a Bulgarian, a Spaniard and an
Italian can take over vineyards in an obscure
part of Spain growing grapes few people have
heard of and create a stunning, authentic
masterpiece of vinosity. How will it go with the chorizo-andsweet-potato ensemble? Just as Rogers went with Astaire. It costs
around 12, or a good deal less, at Hanging Ditch (www.hanging
ditch.com), Paul Adams Fine Wines (www.pauladamsnewines.
co.uk), The Halifax Wine Company (www.halifaxwinecompany.
com) and The Secret Cellar (www.thesecretcellar.co.uk).
The Show Wine is

like a streaker at
a sporting event:
it gets everyones
attention in a
crowded arena
ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY
Eat me
THE EXPERTS... BOOKS
BEST NEW TRAVEL TITLES
The fascinating story of

Gertrude Bell (1868-1926), the
writer, archaeologist, civil
servant and spy who did as
much as TE Lawrence to
stamp British inuence on the
Middle East, begins with the
adventures recorded in Persian
Pictures, rst published in 1894.
The book describes a young
womans journey to visit her
uncle in Tehran. Preoccupied
by the image of the garden in
the desert that she has read
about in Persian poetry, she
seeks out imams and merchant
princes and the camps of
nomad shepherds. Meanwhile,
cholera approaches Tehran,
eventually sweeping through
the city, like a forerunner of
political and religious storms
to come. Tauris Parke, 11.99
As a youngster, Charlie Carroll

fell in love with the idea of
visiting Tibet, and after the
2008 Beijing Olympics decides
to make the idea a reality.
After hanging around in Xining
waiting for a permit, he ascends
the China-Tibet railway
(oxygen masks supplied) and
nally enters Tibet, where he
struggles with bureaucracy
and yak-butter tea. Carrolls
travels, as related in The
Friendship Highway: Two
Journeys in Tibet, alternate
with an account of Tibetanborn Lobsangs ight from the
country in 1989. The two tales
come together on the TibetNepal border where Lobsang
meets Charlie, and asks for his
help to get back into Tibet.
Summersdale, 9.99
By Giles Foden
Ah dark garden, dark

garden, with your olives and
your wine, your medlars
and mulberries and many
almond trees, your steep
terraces ledged high up
above the sea, I am leaving
you. Thus DH Lawrence,
departing Sicily, where he
lived from 1920 to 1922.
The passage is quoted in
Sicily: A Literary Guide for
Travellers, a wonderful text
on the literary diversity of
the island, as produced both
by locals, such as Giuseppe
Tomasi di Lampedusa and
Leonardo Sciascia, as well
as by visitors, including
Goethe, Coleridge, Oscar
Wilde, Tennessee Williams
and Truman Capote.
IB Tauris, 16.99
THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH

Novelist Justin Cartwright nominates Jonathan Rabans Passage to Juneau
You get an idea of what kind
of book this is from
the subtitle, A Sea and Its
Meanings, which suggests
something large
and expansive. And
that is just what
Raban delivers,
a meditation on
travel on the sea
in his own 35ft ketch and a voyage
from his adoptive home in Seattle (he is
English) along the Inside Passage, heading
between Vancouver Island and the
mainland of Canada before steering out
into Queen Charlotte Sound, and onwards towards

Alaskas southern tip. The plan is to meet his wife
and three-year-old daughter there, but a shocking
revelation awaits at the end of his voyage.
Quite soon you understand that you are not
reading a conventional travel book; what makes
Raban one of the nest travel writers alive is
that he doesnt see travel-writing as limiting,
but as his chosen form of self-expression.
I love this line: Journeys hardly ever
disclose their true meaning until after
and sometimes years after they are
over. How true this is, and how beautiful.
Justin Cartwrights most recent novel
is Lion Heart (Bloomsbury, 18.99)
When American food

writer Michael Paterniti
came upon a reference
to an extremely
expensive Spanish
cheese called Paramo
de Guzmn, he decided
to go to Guzmn (pop.
80) in Castile and seek
out cheesemaker
Ambrosio Molino. Soon
becoming part of village
life, Paterniti is invited
to join the locals for
wine, cheese and
story-telling in the
bodega, a man-made
cave known as the
Telling Room.
Relocating his young
family to Spain, he
begins to pen The
Telling Room: A Tale
of Passion, Revenge
and the Worlds Finest
Cheese. But he has not
accounted for the fact
that Molino had
apparently plotted to
murder his closest
friend, or that the
villagers will do almost
anything to keep him
from hearing the next
part of the story. The
result is not just a book
about Spain and its food,
but an investigation into
the art of narrative itself.
Canongate, 12.99
THE EXPERTS... ADVICE
Q
A
My friends and I want to book a sailing holiday in the

Mediterranean but were not sure where to go for great
beaches, really good food and some nightlife. Any ideas?
Q
A
I am visiting Mexico for the second time and want to

nd some off-the-beaten-track beach spots. Where
do you recommend?
Mexicos Pacic coast has a stash of little places that are
still relatively untouched compared to its Caribbean
shores. In the province of Oaxaca, the neighbouring
villages of Mazunte and San Agustinillo have a laidback, hippy feel: there are beach-shack restaurants
along the sand (Siddhartha in Mazunte was the best we
found, where an Italian chef adds Mexican re to the
freshest seafood), tattooed, tanned young things
swimming in the super-clear waters and, come evening,
candlelit bars softly thrumming
out reggae tunes. The best place
to stay is Casa Pan de Miel (www.
casapandemiel.com), run by
lovely French Anne Gillet. It has
an innity pool on a cliff looking
out to the ocean (between
December and March youll see
whales splashing around near the
shore, and maybe even hear a
haunting whale-song) and private
steps down to the caramel-colGrainne McBride
oured sand. To get even closer to
Senior sub-editor
those awesome whales and other
sea creatures, go on an early-morning snorkelling trip
(look for the skipper with the orange-canopied boat at
the southern end of San Agustinillo beach). And be sure
to make the 30-minute trek from Rinconcito Beach
through the forest to Punta Cometa, the southernmost
spot in Oaxaca, for a breathtaking sunset. Dont be
surprised by the robe-clad woman who ceremoniously
blows into a conch as the sun nally dips beyond the
horizon: she sums up the free-spirited vibe around here.
Im planning a weekend in Pariswith a friend whos
gluten intolerant. Do you have any tips on where
we can eat?
With all those croissants and baguettes, gluten-free has
not always been the easiest dietary requirement to cater
for inParis, but things are changing. Satisfy a sweet tooth
at Helmut Newcake (www.helmutnewcake.com),the
citys rst 100-per-cent-gluten-free patisserie, on rue
Bichat near the Canal St-Martin. All the classics, from
religieuses to clairs, are made with ours milled from
quinoa, chestnuts, rice and corn. A trip to Paris wouldnt
be complete without macaroons, which thankfully are
already gluten-free: the olive-oiland-vanilla concoction at Pierre
Herm (www.pierreherme.com)
is particularly lovely. For savoury
snacks, try one of the many new
health-conscious restaurants,
including Soya (+33 1 48 06 33 02),
Nanashi (www.nanashi.fr), Caf
Pinson (www.cafepinson.fr) and
Bobs Kitchen (www.bobsjuicebar.
com). And at NoGlu (www.noglu.fr)
on passage des Panoramas the
Alexandra Rhodes
sandwiches are just as delicious Fashion and beauty
as their traditional counterparts. assistant
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
Q
A
Q
A
Wed like to take our children on a safari to Kenya, somewhere

low-key rather than ash. Do you have any suggestions?
Encounter Mara (www.encountermara.com) is a new camp in the
Mara Naboisho Conservancy, where theres a limit on the number
of visitors and a very real possibility that even with binoculars
you may not see another four-wheel-drive. The camp is simple,
comfortable and understated (no plunge pools here). Instead, the
12 tents all have their own verandahs, large
bathrooms, handmade furniture and
hot-water canvas showers. And theres a
re pit to gather around in the evening.
The gentle hello, hello of the speartoting Masai warrior outside your tent will
encourage you to emerge for home-made
biscuits, fruit salad and asks of coffee
before the rst bush adventure of the day.
Charming, knowledgeable local guides use
traditional tracking methods on the
twice-daily game drives. Later, wander to
the bird lookout, listen to one of the guides Daisy Finer
give a lecture on wildlife, or visit a Masai
Editor at large
village on the conservancy. Children learn
how to make bows and arrows, go on mini- adventures
with staff in the grounds of the camp and even cook with
the chef. The Explorations Company (www.explorations
company.com) can book you in from 285 per person per night,
including all meals and game activities.
Q
A
Where can I take my family for a foodie day out thats

not too far from London?
Whitstable is a stellar spot for a day trip as its just an hours
drive down the M2. If your children have adventurous
palates and wont squeal at the sight of a raw mollusc, take
them to the annual oyster festival (www.whitstable
oysterfestival.com), which takes place during the last week
of July. Besides the live bands, Morris dancers and taleregaling shermen, theres an amazing array of local produce.
Buy a late-morning snack of a dozen fresh oysters, served
on crushed ice with freshly squeezed lemon juice, from one
of the quayside stalls and, while your brood work their way
through the platter (dont tell them
the oysters are still alive), sip a pint
of zesty East India Pale Ale from
the Whitstable Brewery (www.
whitstablebrewery.info). Have
lunch (roasted wild seabass
with garlic and rosemary) in the
restaurant of the Whitstable Oyster
Company (www.whitstableoyster
company.com), looking out to the
Lee Osborne
Promotions creative
mud ats. For a real insight into
director
coastal living, stay the night in a
converted Fishermans Hut (www.
whitstableshermanshuts.com), one of 15 former cockle
farmers shelters right on the pebble beach.
COMPETITION
PHOTOGRAPH: BILL SHERMAN
WHERE ARE YOU?

Will you just look at that view? If you
want to see the sights in this town and
there are many youd do worse than
booking a bedroom at this hotel, whose
46 storeys cast a long shadow over the
neighbourhood. You may even want to
take the top-oor duplex penthouse,
a steal at almost 6,000 a night, which
has its own terrace for vertigo-inducing
games of I-spy. The hotels owner is a
man known to play his cards right, with
a very decisive employment policy. The

designer behind its distinctive interiors
has a theatrical streak, creating the
sets for several blockbusting musicals.
In October, the main street you can see
on the left puts on its own show. Its
the largest of its kind in the country, and
attracts around 50,000 participants. As
everyone dresses up, it can be hard to
distinguish between the performers and
the audience. Last year, among the giant
puppets, dancers, bands and oats, you

might have spotted revellers dressed as a
Rubiks Cube, the Marshmallow Man
from Ghostbusters, and a swaying ensemble
of zombies recreating the Thriller video.
Where are you? RICK JORDAN
To enter, identify the building referred to above.
Correct answers will be placed in a random
prize-draw. For competition rules and prize
details, please turn the page
COMPETITION PRIZE
WIN
A HOLIDAY WORTH 4,215

naples is a city of wonderful extremes,
from its historic palaces and atmospheric
port to its heady street markets and
eerie catacombs. Stay at the ve-star
Grand Hotel Parkers Napoli and youre
perfectly placed to experience one of
Italys most dramatic cities a UNESCO
World Heritage Site and its famous food.
Located close to the stylish shopping
district of Chiaia, the hotel has its own
rooftop restaurant and bar with glorious
views across the Bay of Naples to Capri.
Enter this months Where Are You?
competition and you could win a sevennight stay for two, courtesy of Luxury Link
and Grand Hotel Parkers Napoli. The
prize includes accommodation in a deluxe
room on a bed-and-breakfast basis, a
spa treatment for each person, return
ights to Naples with Monarch Airlines
and transfers in Italy. The holiday must be
taken by 22 December 2014; dates are
subject to availability and exclusions may
apply during school holidays and Bank
Holidays. For more details, visit www.
luxurylink.co.uk/ghp or www.monarch.
co.uk or call +44 808 189 0029
Identify the location,

left, and send in your
entry to arrive by
30 June. All correct
entries will also be
included in the Grand
Prize draw at the
end of the current
competition period
(1 October 2013
30 September 2014).
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of
Cond Nast Publications, participating

promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families
of any of the above. Entries by post
should be sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square,
London W1S 1JU. Email entries
should be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk. To enter online
and for full terms & conditions, visit
www.cntraveller.com/competitions
MARCHS WINNER
Eric Crate of Yeovil in Somerset correctly identied
the location below as Huacachina in Peru. He wins
a ve-night holiday for two at the Conrad Algarve in
Quinta do Lago, Portugal
PHOTOGRAPHS: 50 CENTIMOS/PHOTOCASE.COM; BILL SHERMAN
HOW TO ENTER
READER OFFER
A NEW ZEALAND ISLAND
GETAWAY
Save 15 per cent on a stay at one of the
countrys most stylish boutique hotels
n waiheke island you taste the good life the minute

you step off the ferry and breathe in the salty air. Its
a place of white-sand beaches, rolling vineyards, olive
groves and great restaurants, just 35 minutes from Auckland.
With its bright, nautical design, The Boatshed is just the spot
to soak up the islands laid-back vibe. Dine alfresco on organic
vegetables plucked from the hotels garden, have spa treatments
in your room, head off to explore the nearby galleries, or stroll
along the timber boardwalk that leads to that inviting deepblue ocean. Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive
opportunity to save 15 per cent on a stay here. The special rate
of 445 per person includes three nights accommodation in a
Boatshed Suite, breakfast, a days four-wheel-drive hire with
a gourmet picnic (worth 130) and island transfers. The offer is
valid until 30 September 2014 for travel until 28 February 2015.
FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK

Visit www.turquoiseholidays.co.uk, call +44 1494 678400 or email
enquiries@turquoiseholidays.co.uk
Enjoy the best of both

worlds in Turkey...
$ODDW
Istanbul
Theres no better way to savour the contrasts of Turkey than with a city break in
Istanbul, Turkeys culture capital, followed by a few more nights in the enchanting
DQGODLGEDFN$HJHDQWRZQRI$ODDW+HUHDW*UHHQ,VODQG+ROLGD\VZHZLOOKHOS
\RXWRFUHDWHDKROLGD\OOHGZLWKPHPRULHVWKDWODVWDOLIHWLPHLQWKHWKULOOLQJFLW\
RI,VWDQEXOIROORZHGE\VW\OLVKUHOD[DWLRQLQRQHRI$ODDWVFKDUPLQJERXWLTXH
KRWHOVVXFKDVWKH%H\(YLDERYH
7 NIGHTS AT THE BEY EVI

MAY
JUNE
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
from 569
from 599
from 589
from 529
Upgrade to suite room From 99 Per person
TWO CENTRE OPTION:
3 Nights Istanbul + 4 Nights Bey Evi Alacati from 699

Includes Flights
020 7637 7338
You are invited to experience unique luxury and home comfort in Turkish Airlines
Lounge Istanbul in Turkey. Every detail inside our special lounge is designed
for your comfort and relaxation. Be our guest to enjoy exclusive
services in our restaurants, tea garden, library, movie theater and many more...
turkishairlines.com
Voted Europes Best Airline at the 2013 Skytrax Passengers Choice Awards
The lounge is exclusive to Turkish Airlines Business Class passengers, Elite, Elite Plus and Star Gold card holders
and persons who are part of TA corporate agreement arriving to or departing from Istanbul on a direct or transit ight.
Turkey
CITIES
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
VIEW OF ISTANBUL
FROM GALATA TOWER;
SULTAN AHMED
MOSQUE; RED TRAM
ON THE STREETS OF
ISTANBUL; MAUSOLEUM
OF ATATURK IN ANKARA
t is no exaggeration to suggest that it would

take weeks, if not months, to get to see and know
Istanbul. The city, established as Byzantium
and for centuries after known as Constantinople
(before modern Turkeys founder Kemal Ataturk
changed its name and character in 1930) literally
seeps history from its buildings and streets.
Where to start? Without doubt, the citys historic
heart Sultanhamet. This is home to the world
famous Topkapi Palace where the Ottoman
Empires Sultan resided and which aside from
many fascinating exhibits and rooms has some
of the citys best views the Blue Mosque and
the remarkable Hagia Sophia, in historical terms
probably the most important structure in the city.
Extensive renovations are finally complete which
means you can visit the former church-then

mosque without having to imagine away the
scaffolding.
The Grand Bazaar is also well worth a long
wander although possibly more for its historical
appeal and beauty than for buying gifts.
You will almost certainly want to buy

something from the adjacent Spice Market
which runs down from the Grand Bazaar to
the Bosphorus waterfront and the Golden
Horn, the horn shaped estuary that separates
the European and Asian parts of the city.
Take a ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy, or
one of the many other ferry routes, to get a
sense of how this bustling city of 10 million
people works. After this, wander through
the streets of Beyoglu, the main European
district, to get a sense of the citys evolution
into the modern age. Beautiful mansions,
mosques and shops line the route of the
main shopping route Istikal Cadessi, which
also has historic wooden trams running along
its length. Tea or a drink at the renovated
but still historically evocative Pera Palace
hotel (where everybody who was anybody
used to stay and which in wartime was the
famous hangout of spies and adventurers)
is the perfect way to end a day.
Turkey isnt just Istanbul. Ankara is well
worth visiting for its history and as a base for
exploring central Anatolia and Cappadocia.
Wander the cobbled streets of Antalyas
historic old town (Kaleici) and harbour, visit
Izmir for its famous waterfront and active
nightlife, and Bodrum for the sophisticated
foodie scene that has made this town one
of Turkeys most vibrant and fashionable.
standing
The recently revamped

InterContinental Istanbul has
added yet more reasons to call it
home when visiting Turkeys
most intoxicating city
stanbul is hip, hot and happening: a city where

Europe and Asia meet; a place of opposites in
which historic palaces, vibrant bazaars and glittering
mosques mingle with sleek ofce buildings, smart
hotels and chic boutiques. Istanbul should be
compulsory on any travel wish list, but those already
heading here should check into the InterContinental
Istanbul. One of the citys top addresses, it gets our
vote (rst and foremost) for location. Situated near
Taksim Square (the heart of modern Istanbul), it is
perfectly placed for exploring both old and new
Istanbul. A short walk from Dolmabahe Palace,
Lt Kirdar Convention Centre and some of the
citys best shops, restaurants and bars, its close
proximity to Taksim metro stop also means
guests are an easy 15-minute hop from the
backstreets and bazaars of the old town.
TALL
The hotel itself stands tall, affording some of Istanbuls

best views. Most rooms look out across the Bosphorus
to the domes, minarets and skyscrapers undoubtedly
one of the worlds most eclectic skylines. Inside, a
detailed revamp has wowed recent visitors. The newlook lobby sets the tone for what is now a seriously chic
hotel with stunning rooms and suites. For a city-centre
location, the InterContinental Istanbul boasts fantastic
outdoor space, including a heated pool (with bar) and
Veranda a new al fresco restaurant set in its own
gardens. As one would expect of InterContinental,
the food scene is second-to-none. A must-book is
Safran with its contemporary interpretation of
traditional Turkish fare, live fasil music and authentic
ambience; but the heady heights of City Lights
Restaurant & Bar has become a destination in itself.
Perched on the top oor, views of Istanbul dont get
better than this and the cocktails, atmosphere and
appetisers all score top marks.
transformative revamp
Spa InterContinental has also had a recent revamp
and the results exceed every expectation. An oasis of
calm in the middle of Istanbul, it is a retreat in which
reality is suspended. Cleverly designed using wood and
stone (nature is the inspiration), mood-lighting, soft
music and the scent of exotic oils create a haven of
relaxation and indulgence. The treatment list is superb
and other facilities include a Turkish hamam, steam
room, sauna and exceptional tness equipment.
The one element that has undoubtedly remained

constant throughout the revamp is InterContinental
Istanbuls exceptional service. Hospitality is not only
a cornerstone of Turkish culture but key to the
InterContinental ethos: combine the two and you are
guaranteed some of the best service in the business.
For further information visit
intercontinental.com/istanbul
Clockwise from top:

The InterContinental
Istanbul lords over a
magnicent view of
the Bosphorus; The
Blue Mosque; Spa
InterContinental's
couples suite;
A Club Room
heaven
on
earth
eneath the pine-clad hills of Fethiye in Turkey,
just a couple of miles out of town, Hillside
Beach Club opens out on to the emerald-green
arc of Kalemya Bay. It is an area of outstanding
natural beauty, where guests can live at one with
nature by breathing the heady scent of pine, listening
to the chatter of cicadas and feeling the warmth of
the Mediterranean sun on their skin. Relaxing and
rejuvenating, this is a Turkish time-out at its best.
The rooms and suites are bright and stylish and the
terraces have breathtaking sea views, but the real
appeal lies outside, courtesy of brilliant on-site
facilities. Families love Hillside Beach Club because
it caters for absolutely everyone. The three kids clubs
all get rave reviews. Four to seven-year-olds head to
Kids Club, where they can enjoy arts and crafts, the
games area, waterslides and organised activities. The
Junior and Young Clubs (eight to 13 and 14 to 17)
Barefoot luxury doesnt get better

than Turkeys Hillside Beach Club
cater for the older crowd with football tournaments,
table tennis, diving demonstrations, basketball, darts,
hip-hop lessons and DJ courses. There are also two
dedicated kids pools and one of the best water sports
facilities weve come across. Action-packed doesnt
even come close. Sporty adults (especially the waterinclined) are also in their element. Hillside is home to
Turkeys rst ofcial water-skiing and wake-boarding
school, and recently hosted an international waterskiing competition. Other opportunities include
excellent sailing tuition, a superbly kitted-out dive
school, canoeing and water polo. While on land there
is tennis, beach volleyball, basketball and the everpopular yoga, pilates and zumba.
ultimate relaxation
But for those who want to just kick back and relax
with a good book or cocktail in hand, Hillside has a
chilled side. The two adults-only beaches are
heavenly, attracting an out-of-season couples crowd
as well as parents who need that all-important metime. With its no mobile phone policy and morning
Images, clockwise
from far left: Floating
sun decks at Hillside
Beach Club; Shady
hammocks abound;
Pine-clad hills rise
behind the bay;
Rooms with views;
The very relaxed
Beach Bar; Sanda
Nature Spa;
Silent Beach
yoga sessions, Silent Beach is a one-of-a-kind spot,

a place to refresh the mind, body and soul. The
aptly named Serenity is a favourite for location
a remote haven reached by a half-mile forest
path or complimentary boat service from the
clubs harbour.
For further indulgence the restaurant scene is

excellent, offering a mountain of authentic Turkish
and international food. Pasha on the Bay has a
lovely setting while Beach Bar & Restaurant does
barbecues at lunch and delicious Italian come
evening. The main restaurant has a fantastic
selection of food morning, noon and night
(rumour has it there are 140 different desserts
in the ofng). Theres even a baby buffet, pool
bar and an oh-so-chilled out beach bar.
a jacuzzi, sauna, hamam and wonderful out-there

treatments including stone therapy, crystal massages,
bamboosage (bamboo stick massage), four-hands
massage and lava shell massage. Alternatively go
seriously spa-focused and book in for a four-day
top-to-toe pampering package.
natural spa
The adults-only beaches serve as an excellent
relaxation prelude to the spas. Yes were talking
plural, Hillside Beach Club has not one but two
Sanda spas. For a hotel of its size, its health and
wellbeing credentials are seriously good. We love
the Sanda Nature Spa. Set within the remote hills
near Silent Beach, trees weave in and out of the
treatment rooms and all the therapies are
inspired by nature.
Be at total peace with your senses and enjoy
everything from a Sanda bath (theres ower, milk
and algae) to other nature-inspired treatments
including a lemon and honey facial, aloe lavender
wrap and avocado hair treatment the list reads like
an encyclopaedia of the natural world. While this
unique spa has a real sense of place, the Sanda spa
(without the nature) is exotic and minimalist with
breathtaking excursions
If you can tear yourself away from the hotels beach
club, Hillside Outside offers trips out to the beautiful
surrounding area with its historical ruins, breathtaking
canyons and dazzling bays. Boat trips explore the
secluded coves and beaches around Fethiye and
Gcek in a traditional gulet (a two- or three-masted
wooden sailing boat) while land-based adventures
include trekking, mountain biking or horse riding
along the historical Lycian pathways.
Last but not least, a tree is planted for every guest who
stays: an eco-friendly touch we highly approve of.
For more details visit hillsidebeachclub.com
or follow on Instagram, hillsidebeachclub.
For reservations email hbc@hillside.com.tr
Turkey
eautiful beaches abound in Turkey, with

the Aegean Coast, the Mediterranean Coast and
the Black Sea Coast all offering miles of unspoiled
sand and shingle. Most British and European visitors
stay at the first two, with the latter and the Sea of
Marmara south of Istanbul frequented more by
locals and by Russian and east European visitors.
Given that you are spoiled for choice, where to start?
On the Mediterranean, at over 12 miles long, Patara
Beach is reported to be the longest in Turkey and
it has the advantage of being close to some of the
most interesting archaeological sites in the country.
However, for Turkeys best and most luxurious

beach head to Fethiye and the Hillside Beach
Club. This remarkable, luxury resort has no
fewer than three beaches, catering to all tastes,
including a main family beach and a silent
beach for adults who want to get away from
it all: mobile phones are banned so you cannot
BEACHES
Its also hard to go wrong at any of the beaches

near and around Antalya; Kemer, to the west
of town, has a number of attractive spots whilst
to the east, the area around Side is bustling and
increasingly commercial although its still easy to
find a quiet cove.
be chased by work colleagues. Although it has

become increasingly popular, old Turkey hands
still swear by Olu Deniz (Dead Sea although
another translation turns this into Blue Lagoon, an
accurate description of the languid waters of this
much-photographed place). There is a lot here
for kids including old-fashioned pedalos that you
can take out to the point where the Aegean and
Mediterranean meet. For those who dont like
crowds but also dont mind the lack of facilities
the mainly shingle beach at nearby Kabak is
worth a visit.
Travelling northwards, Iztuzu Beach near Dalyan
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

OLU DENIZ, ALSO
KNOWN AS THE BLUE
LAGOON; HILLSIDE
BEACH CLUB; KONYAALTI
BEACH IN ANTALYA;
ALANYA IN ANTALYA
(near Marmaris) has often been voted Turkeys

most beautiful beach; certainly three miles of golden
sand overlooked by pine forested mountains with
little commercial activity to disturb the tranquility
makes it a strong draw.
Iztuzu Beach is also known as Turtle Beach
as it is one of the biggest breeding grounds in
Europe for the endangered loggerhead sea turtles.
Continuing north, the area around Bodrum has
many beaches (both sand and shingle) but the
best are on the south of the peninsula, where
families in particular predominate. Also quite
vibrant are the beaches around Kusadasi, whilst
further north, and much quieter, those along the
Gallipoli peninsula are well worth exploring.
Clockwise from top:

View of Barbaros Bay;
Barbarossa Beach;
the Chill Out Lounge
hotel
CONFIDENTIAL
Sun, sea, sand and spa, look no further than Kempinski Hotel
Barbaros Bay a sublime all-year-round luxury hideaway
omer described Bodrum and its surrounding area

as the land of eternal blue. Today the colours are
as vivid as ever, particularly now spring has sprung
once again, carpeting the hills in colour. Peoples
shutters are opening and, just like the owers, the villages
are bursting into life again. Bodrum itself was once a
sleepy shing town (those days are long gone): its
cobbled streets are now lined with chic boutiques,
excellent restaurants and buzzing bars (described
by the New York Times as Turkeys St Tropez).
The Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay was the rst

luxury hotel to open its doors to the discerning
Bodrum-bound traveller. Our 2014 luxury hotel radar
has picked it up for privacy, pampering and position:
the perfect short-haul destination for sun and sandseekers. Situated slightly off the beaten track
(15-minutes by car from Bodrum), it is far enough
for solitude but close enough to dip into civilisation.
Once cocooned here, privacy is key. The cliff-top
setting is stunning but it is the huge hotel grounds
versus the relatively small occupation that creates such
a special place. Even when at full capacity, it is never
crowded: from the private (blue-agged) sandy beach
to the enormous spa and numerous restaurants, space
is of the essence. Occasionally there are visitors: luxury
yachts sail into the hotels private marina to enjoy a
couple of nights in this piece of paradise. Guests rave
about the rooms and suites: light, fresh and beautifully
designed, they are enhanced by balconies with
breathtaking views out over the cobalt sea.
loving the buzz

As one would expect of Kempinski, the facilities are
top-notch. We particularly love the parasol call
button (a gin and tonic is never far away). The cliff
top innity pool is like a mirage, the Kids Club is
brilliantly creative and above and beyond the water

sports norm there is a dive school, sailing classes and
sunset cruises. There are mountain bikes at your
disposal (exploring the nearby villages comes highly
recommended), as do day trips out to the ancient sites
of Ephesus. The food is exceptional: we love the light
Turkish-style sandwiches throughout the day and
evening at Barbarossa. Saigon Clubs contemporary
Asian food is outstanding and La Luce does Italian
at its romantic best. For pure chill-out head to
Sundeck, where you can enjoy a vast variety of
cocktails and live DJ music after dinner.
tailor-made bliss
Kempinski Barbaros Bay was sold to us with one look
at the treatment list. This is 5,500 square metres of
tailor-made bliss. The focus is holistic, and in addition
to the pampering, there is reiki, meditation, Watsu
(aquatic body therapy), EFT (emotion freedom
technique) yoga and a chill-out lounge and vitamin
bar. The spas personal health consultations and
wellness coaching are inspirational with life-changing
results lasting long after the tan has faded.
kempinski.com/bodrum
GOURMET
Turkey
V
i
isitors who think Turkish food

starts with kebabs and ends with pide , the
delicious oven-baked flatbread often served
with chillies and olives as an accompaniment,
washed down with raki (an aniseed-based
firewater) or an ubiquitous Efes beer, are in
for a pleasant surprise.
Turkish food lies somewhere between Lebanese

and Greek, combining the finesse of the former
with the freshness of the latter, but with
considerably more variety. As a result you will
find dishes common in Greece moussaka or
dolma (minced lamb and aubergine and stuffed
vine leaves) alongside cooking styles commonly
associated with India ( tandir , a clay tandoori
oven set in the earth) or Iran (flame-grilling),
with the focus, always, on fresh local produce.
So what to order? A meal will typically start
with traditional mezes, small starters of which
hummus, aubergine dip and garlic yoghurt
with cucumber and mint ( cacik ) are the most
common, although more sophisticated options
include lakerda (salt fish) and kalamar tava
(calamari with a special sauce). For mains,
on the coasts in particular, fish is ever-present,
sometimes grilled simply with herbs and garlic
but also oven baked according to local recipes.
However, if you like meat and it is rare to
find a Turk who doesnt you are also in luck.
The best restaurants use an open grill to cook
a dazzling range of regional kebabs, including
the spicy mincemeat adana kebab, tokat kebab
skewered lamb and vegetables urfa kebab,
with onions and peppers and from Bursa,
iskender kebab, soft lamb soaked in spicy
yoghurt sauce.
This country has a vast regional pantry:
try the high quality Taris olive oil from the
Mediterranean Coast, hamsi fish from the Black
Sea and herby cheeses from south-eastern
Turkey. For desserts, pistachio baklava is well
worth having at least once although for British
tastes it can sometimes seem too sweet. Try also
one of the many varieties of helva (made with
tahini and sesame seeds though also often with
many other ingredients including chocolate)
and cezerye made with nuts, caramelised
carrots and coconut.
Turkish wine is also very much on the up despite
punishing taxes: market leaders are Kavaklidere
and Doluca but some of the best wines are
now being made by small producers such as
Urla Sarapcilik who make quality wines with
international varietals from his winery outside
Izmir. Indigenous grape varieties include, amongst
reds, okuzgozo (which produce a soft, fruity and
mellow wine not unlike a merlot); bogazkere

(a drier, more austere grape akin to cabernet
sauvignon) and kelecik karasi , Turkeys silky
and seductive answer to pinot noir. Whites
include narince from the Black Sea region
(a dry floral grape not unlike a viognier)
and emir , from Cappadocia, which tastes
like a dry un-oaked chardonnay.
So where to eat? Wherever you are, you are
spoiled for choice. In Cappadocia, Goreme
has a wide selection of restaurants serving
traditional Anatolian cuisine: the focus is on
simple but fresh cooking styles, using the best
local ingredients. For a good selection, try
Somine in nearby Urgup, which specialises in
cooking in clay pots; the central fireplace and
cosy atmosphere make this a good romantic
choice. In Istanbul, naturally,
the choice is huge. For those
with big budgets, near
Taksim Square, be sure to
try Changa which specialises
in fusion food though it is
closed in the main summer
months. If it's location you are
after, it would be hard to top
Maidens Tower, located on
an island in the middle of the
Bosphorus, with spectacular views of the city.
However, to really get a feel for what makes
Turkish cuisine so special, head to one of the
many busy venues off Istikal Cadessi where
locals and visitors alike while away the hours
over long meals, starting with meze and the
working their way through various courses.
CLOCKWISE FROM
FAR LEFT: HAND
CAUGHT SEA BREAM;
ORTAHISAR CAVE
CITY IN CAPPADOCIA;
LOKUM, PISTACHIO
TURKISH DELIGHTS;
TRADITIONAL TURKISH
TEA; MAIDEN'S
TOWER IN ISTANBUL
Turkey
CLOCKWISE FROM
THIS IMAGE:
NEVSEHIR CAVE CITY
IN CAPPADOCIA;
MOUNT ARARAT;
GALLIPOLI WAR
MEMORIAL; DENIZ
ON THE LYCIAN
COAST; GHOST
TOWN OF KAYAKOY
10 P
O
T
UNMISSABLE
Many books have been written about Turkeys sights but outside Istanbul,
what really shouldnt you miss? Heres our top 10, in no particular order
1
2
3
Ephesus
The granddaddy of Roman ruins, this wellpreserved former Roman capital would
reward days of sightseeing.
The sad, deserted brick ruins of this

former Greek town abandoned after
the 1923 Greco-Turkish population exchange,
and in 1957 damaged by an earthquake
is an eerie testimony to the lost cosmopolitan
atmosphere that defined the Ottoman Empire.
Cappadocia
Dramatic landscapes, old historic villages

and cave hotels, with designer mod cons,
make this an unmissable experience.
Mount Ararat
The spiritual home of Armenians, but

located in Turkey, this eerily impressive
mountain was reputedly where Noahs Ark came
to rest after the Flood. Visit also the spectacular
and highly photogenic ruined Armenian churches
at nearby Ani.
Kayakoy
Side
This former port used by Alexander

the Great is today a perfect mix of
ancient Greek and Roman ruins including a
well-preserved amphitheatre and a bustling
modern town, with good beaches nearby.
The Lycian Coast
Safranbolu
This large chunk of Turkeys so-called

Turquoise Coast is dotted with ancient
ruins dont miss Patara, Xanthos or Pinara
friendly villages and stunning beaches.
No trip to Turkey is complete without

a visit to one of the caravan stations
(caravanserai) that dot Anatolia, and there are
a few and more besides in this well-preserved
UNESCO protected Ottoman town.
Konya
Gallipoli
Together with Kayseri, this is a base for

Turkeys emergent Islamist middle class
but is well worth seeing for its picturesque
buildings from the 12th century Seljuk dynasty.
Palaces, mansions, historic mosques and Whirling
Dervishes (for this is their home) abound.
For Australians and New Zealanders

who lost thousands of their countrymen
in the bloody Gallipoli campaign of 1915, this is
hallowed ground. Whoever you are though, this
picturesque and now rather low key peninsula is
well worth a visit.
10
Kalkan/Kas
Theyre very different, with Kalkan

an ber-trendy resort catering to the
glitterati and Kas a more traditional, earthy
resort. A visit to Turkeys Mediterranean Coast
wouldnt be complete without a visit here.
You can now own a piece of paradise

courtesy of The Residences at Mandarin
Oriental, Bodrum. Newly opened, they
UHGHQH0HGLWHUUDQHDQVW\OHOLYLQJ
private
paradise
he Turkish Riviera is quickly morphing into a
super yacht playground for the rich and famous.
A-listers have quietly been coming here for years
(Mick Jagger, Princess Margaret, Yves St
Laurent, Michael Douglas and Kate Moss), and if you
look carefully, many a designer home can be spotted
nestled into the hillside. This year, Mandarin Oriental
not only unveils a ve-star resort (with all the usual
trimmings) but a host of exclusive residences and
villas are available for sale for those looking to call
this stunning peninsula home. Word on the beach:
summer 2014 is all about Bodrum.
Electric blue skies, crystal clear

waters, verdant ora and a yearround temperate climate set the
scene: the new residences simply
add home-from-home luxury to
this blissful idyll. Located on the
northern side of the Bodrum
Peninsula (near the cosmopolitan
town of Golturkbuku), the hotel
and residences have exclusive
access to Cennet Koyu, a two-kilometre stretch
of pristine coastline. Known also as Paradise Bay, it
incorporates three private beaches all framed by pine
forests and olive groves. The 60 hectare site has been
totally rehabilitated with the planting of more than
100,000 shrubs and trees: a place where green
meets blue and nature meets luxury.
There are 98 exclusive villas and 116 elegant
residences on the market, each with breathtaking
views of the Aegean Sea. The design is sleek,
contemporary and minimalist with oodles of glass,
stone and natural light. Outdoor areas include innity
pools (and pool houses), vast terraces with wood
decking, all designed to ensure the utmost privacy.
Daily housekeeping is a certainty and private chefs are
available for in-residence catering. But above and
beyond the super-chic villa, owners will have the
Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum at their disposal.
Land and water activities include ve kilometres

of trekking tracks, tennis, basketball and a range
of water sports. Villa owners will have access to the
spa with its couples suites, dedicated pilates room,
heat and water therapies not to mention the array
of award-winning Mandarin Oriental signature
programmes plus unique treatments inspired by
Turkish traditions and customs. The hotels
restaurants and bars are of Mandarin Orientals
usual exceptional standards: theres meze
at the Blue Beach Bar, alfresco dining at Olive
Garden, traditional Turkish breakfast at Sofra and
Italian at Assagio, not to mention little take-away
treats at the Mandarin Oriental cake shop, and
seriously good cocktails at the Mandarin Bar.
MOresidencesbodrum.com or
mandarinoriental.com/bodrum

egendary designer Ian Schrager (in partnership with
Marriott International) is the man behind the supercool edgling EDITION brand. Individuality,
authenticity and originality are key, and in 2011
the co-creator of Studio 54 brought his vision to Istanbul
adding a trendy venue to this already en vogue city.
Located in the modern Levent quarter (European side),
the 15-storey tower houses 78 cocoon-like rooms, each
with wall-to-wall windows, remote-control curtains,
42-inch Bang & Olufsen televisions and vast marble
bathrooms. The rich rosewood and oak combined
with natural tones creates a warm serenity.
Schrager always draws a hip clientele with his high-prole

bars, restaurants and clubs and The EDITION is quickly
becoming Istanbuls place to be seen. Never one to do
things by halves, Schrager included a magnicent full-oor
penthouse and a three-storey spa, courtesy of one of our
all-time favourite brands ESPA. Opulence oozes out of
every nook with embossed bronze oors forming a
backdrop for an amazing array of ESPA-dreamy
treatments. We love the VIP couples suite with its
relaxation bed literally suspended from the ceiling.
Schrager does like name-dropping when it comes to his
restaurants and here we nd the Cipriani (of 1930s Venicefame). The Gold Bar is also lled with smart-looking guests,
luxuriating in its cosy interior embellished with gold chainlink curtains and a luminescent 20-foot aquarium; while
entrepreneur Flavio Briatores (aptly-named) Billionaire
nightclub buzzes until the early hours. Thirty seven years
on from Studio 54, Schrager has not lost his touch for
creating trendsetting spaces that are dressed to impress.
edition-hotels.marriott.com
turkish
delight
Like the city its in, The Istanbul EDITION is hip, hot
and happening. And for ultimate relaxation, head to
the intimate Palmalife Bodrum Resort & Spa
almalife has been operating in Turkey since 2009

and is renowned for its health and wellbeing
credentials. The Palmalife Bodrum Resort & Spa
is a lovely laidback getaway, located on a private
250-metre sandy beach in the beautiful bay of Yalikavak,
near Gkebel. Just 40 smart contemporary rooms are
set in lush seaside gardens, creating an intimate hotel
that is perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of every
day life. Theres a wonderful relaxed ambience that sets
the scene for its fantastic spa and wellness facilities.
Many guests come to detox, lose weight and kick-start

a healthy lifestyle. There is an excellent tness
centre with pilates, kinesis, yoga and
power plate, but it is the
Yasasin Hayat! Institute that
health-seeking guests swear
by. Focusing on achieving a
better quality of life through
healthy eating, regular
physical activity, stress management and good sleeping,

experienced dieticians and nutritionists as well as skilled
ESPA therapists and personal trainers are all on hand to
educate and motivate. The programme includes a detox,
exercise regime, and education on eating habits as well
as spa treatments. Guests leave relaxed, rejuvenated and
with a real positive outlook.
For those who just want to sit back relax and enjoy life
on the Turkish coast, theres an excellent water sports
scene, great Mediterranean food at Sunset restaurant
and traditional Turkish fare at the snack bar. Whats
more, the beach is the only white sand beach in Bodrum,
perfect for kids. The more active can enjoy tennis,
volleyball and football, and for explorers, a cruise on
the ve-bedroom Palmalife boat is a must.
For more information visit palmaliferesort.com
Turkey
THIS IMAGE:
GULET CRUISE
ON THE LYCIAN
COAST
Capital: Ankara
Time: GMT +2 hours
Language: Turkish, with
writing in the Roman alphabet.
English is widely spoken in
Istanbul and on the Aegean,
Mediterranean and Black Sea
coasts, less so elsewhere.
Religion: Most Turks are

Sunni Muslim. Attitudes
are generally relaxed but
visitors should remove shoes
and cover bare skin when
visiting mosques. Despite
Turkey producing increasingly
impressive wines, alcohol is
highly taxed, prohibited within
100 metres of a mosque and
cannot be purchased after
10pm except in a bar or
restaurant. Be aware of the
greater cultural differences
prevailing in eastern and
south-eastern Turkey and
steer clear of border areas
adjacent to Syria, Iraq
and Iran.
Climate: Turkey has a

continental climate, which
means it can get very hot in
the summer months (almost
stifling in Ankara and other
places in central Anatolia)
and cold and quite wet in
the winter months. Istanbul
gets most of its rain between
January-March. The best
months to visit, and when
crowds are fewer, are MayJuly and September-October.
Getting there: Direct

scheduled and charter flights
operate from a wide range
of UK airports to Istanbul,
Izmir, Dalaman, Antalya
and Bodrum.
Currency: New Turkish

Lira, currently around
TL3.6/, or TL2.25/$.
DIRECTORY
The currency has depreciated

around 20 percent since May
2013, making the country a
bargain for visitors from the
UK, US and Eurozone.
Entry Visas: Visas can still

be purchased at entry points
into Turkey but only until the
end of 2014, when they can
only be purchased online and
in advance at e-visa.gov.tr. Cost
per visa for UK nationals is 10.
Tourism Organisations:
A wide range of specialist
travel agents offer packages to
Turkey, with everything from
sun and sand to exploring
remote eastern and southeastern Turkey catered for.
Details of whats on offer
can be found at the Turkish
Culture and Information
Office gototurkey.co.uk .
Agents include:
QGreen Island Holidays

greenislandholidays.com
QElixir Holidays
elixirholidays.com
QAnatolian Sky
anatoliansky.co.uk
Essential Reading:
Visitors should ensure
they have Orhan Pamuks
Istanbul: Memories of a
City , a moving and readable
account of the city which
puts it into proper historic
and cultural perspective.
Orhan Pamuks Snow set in
and around contemporary
Kars in eastern Turkey
and My Name is Red (set in
the mid-Ottoman era) are
worthwhile but challenging.
To understand modern
Turkeys evolution, see
Andrew Mangos masterly
account of its founder,
Ataturk .
W
OST
WANTED
W
LATEST EDITION
Looking for a fabulous bolthole in central London?
The EDITION Penthouse is 195 square metres with a
wraparound landscaped terrace and 360-degree
views of London. It has its own dining room,
full kitchen, living room and a private ofce
just in case you actually get around to
working during your stay!
Marriott.co.uk
THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world
TO CELEBRATE THE 170TH

ANNIVERSARY OF PENFOLDS,
BESPOKE FURNITURE DESIGNER DAVID
LINLEY HAS DESIGNED AND HANDCRAFTED
BEAUTIFUL WOODEN WINE CASES TO HOLD
A ONE-OFF, COMMEMORATIVE RELEASE
FROM THE ICONIC AUSTRALIAN WINERY:
A SINGLE-BLOCK, SINGLE-VINEYARD BIN
170 KALIMNA SHIRAZ MADE FROM ITS
OUTSTANDING 2010 VINTAGE.
If you have to entertain children

this summer try the BattleBox.
Kits include the Bear Grylls
Dangerous Den Kit and the Great
Expedition Kit, which will ignite
an adventurous outdoor spirit
in even the most computergame-obsessed children.
Battleboxcompany.co.uk
loves
A
GOURMET
HEALTH & BEAUTY
THE
DE MAMIEL has created a

Seasonal Attunement Treatment,
designed to rejuvenate your skin
throughout the year and keep
it as fresh as a daisy essential
for any jet setter! 245 for 120
minutes, demamiel.com
LEMONGRASS ROOTS
'THAILAND: THE COOKBOOK' TOOK THREE AND A
HALF YEARS TO CREATE AND IS THE DEFINITIVE AND
EXHAUSTIVE GUIDE TO THIS MUCH-LOVED CUISINE.
WITH 500 RECIPIES FROM HOME COOKS THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY AND STUNNING IMAGES BY JEAN-PIERRE
GABRIEL, IT DOCUMENTS EVERY REGION TO BRING
TOGETHER AN UNRIVALLED CULINARY RECORD FROM
STREET SNACKS AND SAMPLING DISHES THROUGH TO
ELABORATE DINNERS. 29.95
Caribbean queen Sandals LaSource Grenada Resort & Spa has just opened on Pink Gin Beach with 225
rooms and opulent suites, taking the Luxury Includedconcept to higher levels of sophistication.
W
W
EXPERIENCE
help you nd the perfect piece and is fully versed in all hat-related
Mamma mia: A unique culinary holiday

concept has launched in a 15th-century villa
in northern Italy to immerse guests in the
region's food culture. Local experts and chefs
will guide you through delicious dishes such as
osso bucco with saffron risotto and spaghetti
alle vongole, and arrange market expeditions
to pick up seasonal ingredients, as well as
trufe-hunting and dinners at local restaurants.
questions of etiquette to ensure you look your absolute best without
2,400 per person, stirredtravel.com
Whether you are searching for a hat for the races or a wedding abroad
or simply an exquisite sunhat, Rachel Trevor Mo rgan should be
your rst port of call. Her atelier in St Jamess, central London will
Exclusive private members'

club HOME HOUSE
has teamed up with Mot
et Chandon to create
the ultimate urban oasis
in the heart of London.
The walled garden has
been transformed into a
sophisticated bar area where
chandeliers hang from
trees and an la carte menu
complements the bubbles.
Homehouse.co.uk
breaking any of the rules. racheltrevormorgan.com
These elegant
Roderick Hurricanes
candle holders
by Ralph Lauren
will bring a tantalising
hint of the
Hamptons to your
home. From 495,
ralphlauren
home.com
LOOKING FOR A ROOM WITH A VIEW? THE NEW

CRYSTALBROOK LODGE, WITH JUST FIVE BEAUTIFUL
SUITES, IS SET IN THE HEART OF THE RUGGED OUTBACK,
ONLY 40 MINUTES FROM THE ICONIC GREAT BARRIER
REEF TWO PHENOMENAL LANDSCAPES RIGHT AT YOUR
DOORSTEP. CRYSTALBROOKCOLLECTION.COM.AU
THE SAVOY has been host to Sir Winston

Churchill, Frank Sinatra, Christian Dior and pretty
much every stylish celebrity you can think
of. This year it celebrates its 125th birthday, and
to commemorate the occasion the hotel will be
offering a third night of any one-bedroom suite stay
for 125 until the end of the year.
Fairmont.com/savoy-london
LUXURY
CARTIER has launched the

Jeanne Toussant Collection (named
in honour of the Cartier
muse) alongside the Louis
Cartier Collection, comprising
ne leather goods for women
and men respectively. Both
collections are painstakingly
designed and realised by skilled craftsmen
with a meticulous eye for detail.
From 1,470, cartier.co.uk
THE NEW LUXE SENSAI

SILKY BRONZE RANGE
COMBINES A HIGH SPF
VALUE, A SUPREME
HYDRATING EFFECT AND
A SMOOTH TEXTURE.
THE USE OF A NEW UV
FILTER CALLED ADVAN
LIMITS THE DEEP SKIN
DAMAGE THAT UVA RAYS
CAN CAUSE. FROM 40,
HARRODS.COM
Dream Destinations
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
La Sablonnerie Hotel is located on the lovely
island of Sark, Channel Islands. It has a strong
international clientele who return-year-afteryear to recapture the beauty of the island and
to enjoy the excellent cuisine, wine, and
friendliness for which the hotel has an enviable
reputation. Guests gather in the bar before a
roaring log fire for a cocktail or a glass of
champagne before dining, and later take a
moonlit walk or simply gaze at star-studded
skies. Featured by the Which hotel guide as
The place to stay in the Channel Islands, the
hotel also received Cond Nast Johansen
Small Hotel of the Year Award and was
nominated as their Most Romantic Hotel.
Also the Hotel of the Year Award from Les
Routier. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com or call
01481 832061.
THE BULL HOTEL. Easy-going and

bursting with life this 16th century
coaching inn oozes eclectic style and
contemporary rustic charm with two
award-winning restaurants, cider house
and cocktail bar in the heart of Bridport
near the Jurassic Coast in West Dorset.
Call 01308 422878 or visit
thebullhotel.co.uk
Deelin Mor Lodge is a secluded retreat in

the midst of the Burren, one of Irelands
most unique areas of outstanding natural
beauty. This design led family home, built in
the style of an Irish Georgian hunting lodge,
accommodates up to 10 people and is
perfect for holidays, special occasions or a
weekend break. www.deelinmor.com
Tel: +353 65 708 9009.
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
BOUTIQUE BEYEVI HOTEL in ALACATI,
TURKEY. Nestled in the Aegeans stylish
Alacati town, the Beyevi is an oasis of a
boutique hotel lovingly restored from old
village houses. Matching the towns allure of
vintage and contemporary style, it is the
ideal hideaway for relaxation with a beautiful
pool, gourmet cuisine and 15 stunning
rooms. E: info@beyevi.com.tr T: +90 533
602 1600, www.beyevi.com.tr
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in
the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.
HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS

Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic Centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
PONGWE
BEACH HOTEL
Zanzibar
WWW.PONGWE.COM
Honeymoon
in Paradise
The UKs most comprehensive

dedicated website all about
the Galapagos Islands
www.cruisethegalapagos.co.uk
Tel: 01473 890499
NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
QUALITY VILLAS in France, Italy and

Morocco.
Luxury holiday villas with pools on the
Cote dAzur, St Tropez, Provence, Biarritz,
Tuscany, Umbria, Marrakech, Agadir and
more. Our portfolio of villas are visited
personally by us, meaning we can offer
specialist advice down to the smallest
detail. Services including chef, transfers
and maid service are easily arranged.
Tel 01442 870055 or visit
www.qualityvillas.com ABTA & Fully
Bonded.
CASA LA CONCHA, a beautiful finca

situated in the stunning Marbella
countryside just minutes from Puerto
Banus. An Old Andalusian residence, it
has been exquisitely renovated into a large
main house and 5 luxury cottages. Relax
in the living room with a drink, enjoy a
good book from their library or go explore
the hidden treasures of Marbella. Visit
www.casalaconcha.com or call +34 646
520 883.
Borgo Pignano is a private estate

extending over 750 acres set in the rolling
hills of the Tuscan countryside. The villa
and two smaller stone farmhouses are
part of the 18th century converted luxury
hotel comprising of seventeen elegantly
furnished rooms. With 350 acres of
organically farmed land and two organic
vegetable gardens the kitchens prepare
locally sourced, fresh Tuscan delicacies.
Rooms can be booked for individual stays
or the Villa and farmhouses can be
booked exclusively making it the ideal
venue for private celebrations, retreats,
classes, holidays, and conferences.
www.borgopignano.it, +39 058 835 032.
istanbul!place apartments Best City

Apartment winners at i-escape. Stylish,
characterful, self-catering period
properties in Galata, the heart of Istanbul.
Stay close to the ancient sights yet be
part of the contemporary, authentic local
community: live like a local. Perfect for
gatherings of families and friends.
www.istanbulplace.com or 07729 251676.
HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a

luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart of
Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.
The Baker House 1650s luxurious and

relaxing environment makes it the ideal
home away from home in East Hampton,
New York. On offer is a range of amenities
including breakfast daily, local beach
access, spa treatments, and concierge
services to cater to every guests needs.
T: 631.324.4081 or email
info@bakerhouse1650.com.
Dream Destinations
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

HOT
LIST
THE 60 BEST
NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD
THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION

Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com
WINCHESTER MANSIONS is an iconic

building on the seafront in Cape Town
within close proximity to the V&A
Waterfront and Cape Town International
Airport. This landmark hotel offers
classically elegant rooms boasting sea or
mountain views. Facilities include a pool,
Ginkgo Spa, signature dishes from
Harveys restaurant and full service
conferencing.
Tel: +27 (0)21 434 2351
Fax: +27 (0)21 434 0215
Email: traveller@winchester.co.za
Web: www.winchester.co.za
Now from only 99 per room B&B
Dream Destinations
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA

THE HUKA RETREATS
www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.

-- 6 ,/- /1,

>i
[
Y

U
t
||
|
*1 /" - ì}] V >` Li }
}> i V V>i i i`} >i> v iV /i
iVi` i vi>i }> >i >` i i
>` i `] > i > i ` }i>i V >Li
x i>V
> x{ i >` L i >
>
i`
V
-/,8 6L"` }}i` >Li ii ii i>i >V
|[
}i> ` >` }}i` ì} V ì> v ` >Vi /i i>i
vi>i > >ii> V>i > iV v >} >i >` ` > i
> ì >L>V i 6 ` V
",/ " " >i` v i ìiì i >` {] "
iV>i > E i iii] Vi v - ii i ii
|
|Y
*iLi
vv v i > i >Vi
iV] 9i ` *>i] {
Vi x vvi >V > i >}i i >` i i } Vì ",/18 ` i "
> x 7iLi *> 6>] ` 7 x >` >
`
V V> {{ nnx
{
"" \ ii> ] `Vi] ] vV> >VVii v `Vi} `} >` i i 1i `} >i L>}] >ìi>i V>] i>`]
] V> >` i *`} > Lii iVi] >`>ì }] v > /ii` >` i>i 6i i ViV > >
>
`
V V> {{ { n{{
x , / >iV v> L>` >i > v i >i} iiiVi >` ì> ì> i ìL ViV `>} > >` >ii Vi
>ì > v
/ - Viwi` >i] ii L>} >i >`>ì L V> >> i >i iviV >i V> Li} i>i >` } > ii v i >` i
}>i L>} i ì> i > L>} i > VV > V> Li i` i>>i / i i i ViV] i iV
/,1 6,/1
> E
>` > v >` ì} /i > >i Vii i V> >` V>` i>>i V>i >` iV >}> i}> ,V>} v
i> `>> V i` Vi` V>` q ] V>V] } >` iVi
i v V >
i}vV V> i Vì /6
/
iVii vv > / 6 `V i i {
"1
7 , / i >i i L> v vV> "1 Li>Vi> i >i` v i v V >` V ` >i>] i V >i >
Vi> ii> v vV> i>}i >i >` ii > > iv >i Vi i
Li>Vi>V
n 1
9"" 9 > -i L>i` L>` > > Lii ii} i ii >` V> ì> >V `}> i>ì> ViV i}i
i 9 > Lii } VVi> ì ì} i Vi>i >>i Li` i -i ii ì>} i i ì> `Vi v >` ] >`
w`} i Viii > iiV > iV> Vi> 6 >
i i> i
J} >V V> nxnx v vi v>
-" 7,/ vvi > Vii Lii iVi] i> >} iii > >` }` } i wi `>` >` }ii >i i i}
`>`] > v i ] >` > ` ì} i >
iii ` >i
>V { x iiiV
- 89 / - > i>
`Li}V /i Li ViV v Li>Vi> >v> iVi v - > i ViV ] }}i i V >` i V`}
i>` >` v i i iVi i > i>
`Li}V V> nnx
{ >V} >i L>} V ii } ii` >V i `vvii\ > > >i i] i > w }] i >i i >` > >}i i >
i i ii w ] > iviV v >i VV i> v > `> } >` v] i` >`ì` > >` iv 6 >
`L>}>
`L>}V
V> {{
-
1*/1, - ,iLiVV> ,i >`ì}] V>i >` V> i v > ` >` i` i` i iVi ` x i} i 6 V
}V V>V
,iLiVV> > iLiVV>iJV
}V V> nn

"" i >i V >Vit >>Li ii Li>v V >` ii i 7i}} xx} >` >V} ` x V ii i v L>} i
> i>> iiiVi ì i
>V i> >i >i >VVi
> x {{ >
}
V ,i>ì }i { vv > ì
Vì
ì
>V i {
{ ,1 9 -/" 7 ,9 i >>] Vv }ii i>V v i } >` ii iVi i>} L >` >> iV > >` > iiV v
}i] >`>ì }` >` i i} >`` > iii ViV 6 L V V> n{{ n{
x /-9 Vi>i > >] i >` i >}i v }ii > >i >>>Li > >i v i] V >` i ii i} v ii >
6 >`> iv>
>V V> nx{ {n v i v>

-- 6 ,/- /1,

>i Vi`
|
|t
|U
|

|
[

Y

U
/ // / , "8

"* 9 vvi i>i` V>i v Vvy] iii >` >} V>` >`
Lii Li iVi iLi` Vi }>\ i iviV >} iì v > > VV> }
iVi` ii Li>v >ì Li v iVii } V> q i i] 7i
6 iii>iLV >
V V> {{n{ x
-1,*1-- " " Vi>i ii }ii >` i> iii v i >` Vì >V iVi >`
V>vi` i 1 >` > ì} >i i v > ` V i` i` Lii iVi > >>>Li
6 }>
`
V i>
vJ}>
`
V v i ì>
n /- , 7 ,9 `Vi > i i v Vvy i }i
iV v i }i Vvy >i >`v}i`
i} i] VVi` L> V>}] v >ì iV i / i i ii ViV >} i i i]
/>>,>iV i> Vvy
J>>>iV
t
, // ii w -7 ViV] >Vi` *> i>} >ì -> ii] i ViV }i >
iiiVi 7ii ì > i >L L> i
>i> > `] Li>Vì i`>] `]
>i] L>
*>] i >i > i iVi L > v> v>` > -7 L >ii 6 >iiV i i v ViV
6 ,/ "1- -77 , > iV> i i> i] L}} i i Li VV ì}i i> >` >VVii 7ii i
V}] i>} > Li>V i} > > Li> ii i} v > `> -i n V -i i>} Lii} >> i L>` >
Vi` 6 iii i>V V> { xxx v i v>
/ "

"* 9 > ì> v >iV >` Li> V}] >VVii] }v >` i `jV /ii Li>v >} >i i
v >` >ì v
/ i i v >}i] iLi >
Li>VV >
V
"
" i >i i> i >>ì /i ` Li >` i i vvi > ì >}i v ] v>i` }ii >`
i> v i V>i` ì > "vvi} } >vi i>> L>` V > *>> >` i>] ii i v> i>` i ii v > V i /i >`Vi`
ViV Vì ii} ii` v i iviV }i>> v}i i VV >v> >` Li>V >`> v i w} V 6 `VviV
V> {{ nx i>
vJ`VviV
1 6 6 / i i v Vi> >` V>V vi> ìV v i i> v i > i i >i>`] i >i i>Li` iii i > >` w>i
iVi 6 i > { } ,>`] -7 {1* V> {{ 6 i > LiiiiV
{ /1// vvi > >}i v } V >v>] >` V V }i q i iviV }v v iv i` i 6 i > >L>
i V V> i
v > vii V>>}i x
x , , " " i>V
i >` VVii v i ìi i >` Li>v Li>ì` >}] Li>V ìi] i ii V >i
Li>V >] >VVii >` i >i >i} w ii i > }`ì i Li>Vt 6 >
>`>iV V> {{ n { v i v>
/i --{ ViV v 6 -"
/9 > ì i ii i v >ì>i` V> 7>ì} >L i Vii >`V>i ì i iV>} iì>i>
] iii> ìi v > ii v>LV v ] > >` Vvv L} vi L i i Liii /i ViV >>>Li i i iViV
V> {{
i` L i iii> >` >] 1, 7 ,9 >L Vi>} > `>}i i i>i > v >i V] iV }i] i>i` i}>} >`
i` i>] `>` >` V> > >`` i iViVV > >> ii iii q } >`` >i > vi v` / i> ii `> >` i>i vii
6 >>iiiiiV V> x v i v>
n < /9 , >` } ì}i iii /i ì} Vi>} ``> i``} >` i}>}ii } i { >n i] iL} i 7ii
>` v {n i iL} > -ii i] ` 6 iV V>V xn n
ivvi VV i Li>V i /- 79 /" 6 } i` i` >} >V Li>v ì} >ì } iwi V i
Vi>i i w /i ì> >i V>t 6 >i>i
V i>
vJ>i>i
V V> { x

-- 6 ,/- /1,
|
[
Y

t
U
" 7/-1 VLi >>ii i>}i Vi> ì} Vi>i > >}i
v }}>}i] > L>} >` >VVii }}>}i >` >>ii
>v> q i> > i
i> >i` ii i V> /- }i v>i V>i ] >ì v *>i > i> i` ì
i >i>Vi ` ì ì >` i>Vi V] >` i / V> V>i ]
V>LivviV }i > i] vi`] i>V] ìVi q > ii >ii iit
/i i *>i >` i Vi v >ì q }i> }i] >VV i] ii Li V Vii
i 6Vi
ì 71{{ > ViV >` iVii `V i { -ii i v
>}i] > > >vv`>Li Vi] > ì>> >V V> v i v>
/9",- " ,,"/ /ii i iVi> }i } Vvvii V>i i y> v i `
Li }} i} q i L} >` Li Li> v
L>] ii VV> Li> v ì>] V >` ii}> y>
v ,>`> >` ii] i Vvvii v >i>> /i i y> V>>ViV >` iVi> > >i i i
iviV }v v i L``} Vvvii Vi] ì> v VV> i > > Vvvii > i> iV> i v>]
>VvviiV viii x {nnn
8 ii >` vV] i>V V>i ì} `}> Vi` >` >` wi` 8 }>i iVi Vi`] i
} i` n i }` ->- }
ii v > ] V>i > ii v i >` i
6
iiiV i>
vJ
iiiV

"/"
--
ViVi` >V L} > >i i >i} ii > V>] > ii} i >}>
i i > i> wV> >i> } ] LiV>i i >i ,,* 1- 6 V}>VV
{ 6 / E 9", 9 7 , vvi V>V >}i i` i > ì >i] ii >` V /i v>i >i
>`V>vi` v i wi >i> `} i >i L>>Vi Liii i >` Vv /i i }>i ViV vi>i
>
<i 6 -ii i f / /," -}>i 6>}i
> vi>}
> <i 6 -ii f 1-
[
6
>
`V V> { { n v i v>
x 1-/ " 6i` i v i x Li ì ` L i /ii}> >}>i] > Li >` i i]
1-/ "] v iii ViV v i> >` Vi v > i ì}i L>` V > i> "`>L>]
>> i Vi`] -i>v] i` i] i] ,`> >` *> ì -Vi ` Li i`] 6 , +1 i v i v VV viV i>
L>` 6 i V V> n n ] >` ` v}i ViV i Li>v }ii ViV Livi i>it
/i v "1, - > Li} i viVi` > v > wvii Vi *>> 6> ì> -V>> iVi] > /i LLì }i i vi >`>
>> i>i > >ì iVi L >` /i ii` i > vi>i > >`Vi }} V i >` Li >> >V> > >i Vi v i
ìi` i >w V> }` > L> >` >i` i >VVi i >`ìLi` Lì `} >i` Vi ii` i > fx 1- q
6
>-ivV i> iJ
>ivV
6 ," 9 Vi>i iii V L i` >` ì}i` L >i /i ì}i >i i ìV v i >i >` i `] ViV} i >i> > i
}i >> Vi] iiV> }ii] v i v`> v i ViV] i} > iVi >i ii i >i > iV> iVi] i i ViV >
\Li>vV 6i
>
`
n /i ìwi ii v > } i i >Vi v i -> ,>}i] /8 -> ìi > i >`>` >>V i] Vi >i] i}
i>i /i ` i > > > }i V] >> vi` 6 i>>V i> i>>JV
iiViVV
* -- 7 ,9 ì > ii v ì VwìVi] Li> >` i} } i Vi> *iVi >i >i` >vi ii ìi >` >`V>vi` ii i }i
> i} iL>Vi i Li> v }ii] i> >` V> Vi>i i>>Li > 6 \>i>V i>
vJ>i>V i vv iVi }v
>VV i}>
{ /" //, *,"1
/- i> > i} v ii >ii\ i 7>i,i> >Vi >` ` ] i >ii` }i -i /i Li > Li
>Li >i ii} i }ii i` /i >} Vì` >i >VVii ` i ii i > >
V iii`VV
> nnn x nx v i v>
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE
On The Move...
To Greece
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
Find your perfect villa

rental in Greece
Quote CNAST for 100 discount
www.lesante.gr
info@lesante.gr
+30 269 504 1330
www.thetopvillas.com/cn
Call us on 0800 43 34567
ST NICOLAS BAY RESORT HOTEL AND VILLAS,

CRETE, GREECE.
This elegant resort provides a wealth of romantic settings
for wedding couples with many venues to choose for the
most important day of your life, whether you want a unique
wedding ceremony or an extra-special honeymoon.
For information, visit
www.stnicolasbay.gr call +30 28410 90200 or email
stnicolas@otenet.gr for enquiries.
On The Move...
To Greece
Anemomilos Apartments
Dimitris and Cornelia Patelis
840 11 Folegandros Cyclades
Tel.: +30 22860 41309, Fax: +30 22860 41407
www.AnemomilosApartments.com info@anemomilosapartments.com
FINEST GREEK VILLA RENTALS

AND YACHT CHARTERS
ileana@fivestargreece.com
www.fivestargreece.com
On The Move...
To a Hot New Destination
El Secreto Resort
El Secreto resort, located in Ambergris Caye, Belize offers an intimate, barefoot luxury experience surrounded
by the crystal blue waters of the caribbean and a lush tropical landscape, a true and authentic paradise...
El Secreto nestles 13 exclusive individual thatched roof villas with a smart combination of contemporary and
traditional elements. Fine Belizean tropical woods, marble finished bathrooms with a tandem bathtub,
outdoor private jacuzzi and shower patio. All the villas are equipped with a King size bed, a state of the art
led lighting system, air conditioning, ipod dock station, LCD TV, mini bar, safe, Melita coffee maker, 400
thread egyptian cotton Vivenda linens and Malin & Goetz amenities.
You can experience a variety of activities for couples to enjoy together-from private dinners and couples'
massages, complimentary watersports and bicycles to adventurous excursions - all designed to create
lasting memories for a lifetime.
Tel: +501 236 51 11
+501 670 51 11
Toll Free: 1 800 479 5037
info@elsecretobelize.com
11 miles North of San Pedro Town, Ambergris Caye, Belize.
This Tahiti hotel in TAHAA is located in a paradise-like setting on the Motu

Tu Vahine, a private little island of 23 acres, in the middle of the lagoon of
Tahaa. The Vahine Island, Private Island Resort has everything to make
your stay in paradise an unforgettable one.
www.vahine-island.com
Phone : (689) 65 67 38
Dominican Republic Luxury Hotel

Located on the exotic north coast of the Dominican Republic and directly on the
crystal water, Casa Colonial Beach & Spa is the ultimate, world-class resort.
www.casacolonialhotel.com
00 1 866 376 7831 / 00 1 809 320 3232
Chteau Les Carrasses

is a 19th Century wine domain in the
Languedoc, South of France. Converted
into stylish suites, houses and
apartments it offers the best of a selfcatering villa holiday with top class
facilities such as a heated 20m infinity
pool, clay tennis court, restaurant and
bar and panoramic dining terraces.
Web: www.lescarrasses.com
Tel: +33 664 35 83 61
Bel Horizon Seychelles

Affordable beachfront self-catering holiday
duplex at Glacis set in a beautiful tropical
garden leading directly to a secluded beach.
Suitable for couples, business travellers and
families. Your home away from home.
www.BelhorizonSeychelles.com or email
BelhorizonSeychelles@gmail.com
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
01242 787800
redsavannah.com
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
OU TSTA NDING V ILL A S
Some of the finest villa

rentals in Tuscany
by Tuscany Now
#1 rated hotel in British Virgin Islands 2011, 2012, 2013

(TripAdvisor)
9 private stand alone cottages set on a dramatic point
overlooking the Caribbean Sea with Honeymoon Packages
starting from 1.500 GBP including car rental,
couples massage, and sailing adventure.
www.frenchmansbvi.com
Phone: +1 284 494 8811
+44 207 684 8884

tuscanynow.com
On The Move...
To a Villa
Retreat
On The Move...
To Africa and the
Indian Ocean
01242 787800
redsavannah.com
INCREDIBLE JOURNEYS
TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals
Property Sales
For further information, please call 020 8246 6123

www.isolarossa.co.uk
Island Cottage
Holidays
Isle of Wight & Dorset
This stunning manor house in the South of France

near historic Pezenas is perfect for two families
with 5 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. Huge walled
garden with ancient pine trees for shade, indoor
and outdoor dining, courtyard pool, beautiful
room proportions and original features yet with
modern bathrooms, air conditioning and WiFi.
In
Info@PureSafari.com
fo@PureSafari.com
Ag
Agent@PureSafari.com
ent@PureSafari.com
Holiday cottages in beautiful rural

& coastal locations
www.secret-south-france.com
00 33 664 35 83 61
Montenegro Villa
Montenegro Historic Quayside Villa to let in
Rose, Lustica Peninsula, Bay of Kotor.
Sea pool, private terrace, sleeps 10+.
Air conditioned. Beautiful village with
3 restaurants.
Stunning views and crystal clear sea.
Dubrovnik airport 1 hour by land and
water taxi.
Full details:
www.ownersdirect.co.uk/montenegro/MN383.htm
www.PureSafari.com
UK:: 01227 753181

UK
USA:
US
A: (646) 513-4227
On The Move...
Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
Mansion Baliwood
A selection of beautiful individual

villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1
/$1=$527(
%$/($5,&63
2578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$
Now in our 23rd year
Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our specialists

2787
01954 261431
or visit our website

www.vintagetravel.co.uk
V5643
LAlbiousse; 18th century elegance

and 21st century luxury in the centre
of the historical market town of Uzs.
Explore Unesco world heritage sites,
take off in a hot air balloon, go
kayaking or simply relax at a caf
terrace before retreating to your
luxuriously appointed bedroom or
terrace suite with its own private
terrace.
Cond Nast Traveller exclusive offer. Book before 31st May 2014 and get
15% off Best Available Rate code CNTraveller.
www.albiousse.com or call 0033 4 66 59 15 74.
Email Address: info@themansionbali.com

Call Us: +62 361 972 616
Fax us: +62 361 972 632
Visit our Website: www.themansionbali.com
On The Move...
To Spain
On The Move...
d^dD,
SON MAS is located in a serene rural area, just

inland from the coast. The hotel inhabits
original 17th-century structures that belonged
to a Mallorca posesio (farm), and the buildings
have been lovingly restored and equipped with
every creature comfort.
Daily, 5* holidays including Heathrow flight

Cairo, city break
The 16 rooms are all junior suites, with

approximately 50m2 (165 sq. ft) of space,
including a large and well-equipped bathroom
and terrace. The outdoor pool (26 x 66 ft.) is
located in a quiet and sunny spot just removed
from the hotel, ideal for relaxation and privacy.
For more information visit

www.hduquesadecardona.com
or call +34 932 689 090
Affordable
luxury
Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when

booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.
Travel
SOUTH AMERICA
CHILE TOURS
France
Italy
Spain Mallorca Portugal
Madeira
Breath-taking views towards the

harbour from the cocktail-terrace
and roof top pool. A romantic
urban retreat.
A3781
020 7370 6446
Tailor-made holidays to
a delectable collection
of hotels across nine
destinations by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and inspirational ideas
Tailor-made holidays in Chile,

Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia
Tel: 020 7730 5959
www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com
INDIA
Marbella
Private Luxury
Mediterranean Villa
Sleeps 12 people
www.privatevillaspollensa.com
ref VP90
Villa in Marbella, Spain.

Rent per week: Euro 3,000.
For more information, please email
Palm.Marbella@gmail.com
Guaranteed Sighting
Romance with the Taj
Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.
GOA/KERALA 14 nights from 897 inc ights.
Quote Cond Nast for further information!
To travel in style call 020 7258 7800 or visit www.goaway.co.uk
Switzerland Germany
Delightfully contemporary palace

hotel of the19th century, superbly
located in front of the port and just a
3 minute walk to Ramblas and the
historic centre.
495,
Cairo & Nile cruise Luxor Aswan from 795

Cairo, Nile cruise & Sharm El Sheikh from 1190
Ctra. Porto Cristo Porto Colom (Cam de Son Mas), 07680 Porto
Cristo, Mallorca, Illes Balears. Call (+34) 971 55 87 55, visit
www.sonmas.com or email hotel@sonmas.com
Hotel Duquesa De Cardona
from
Capri
COMING NEXT
MONTH
IN THE USA:
The Cond Nast Publications Inc.
Chairman: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.
CEO: Charles H. Townsend
President: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.
Editorial Director: Thomas J. Wallace
Artistic Director: Anna Wintour
July issue on sale 2 June
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTIAN KERBER
IN OTHER COUNTRIES:
Cond Nast International Ltd.
Chairman and Chief Executive: Jonathan Newhouse
President: Nicholas Coleridge
Vice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse and Moritz von Laffert
President, Asia-Pacic: James Woolhouse
President, New Markets: Carol Cornuau
Director of Licenses, New Markets: Natascha von Laffert
President and Editorial Director, Brand Development: Karina Dobrotvorskaya
Vice President & Senior Editor, Brand Development: Anna Harvey
Director of Planning: Jason Miles
Director of Talent: Thomas Bucaille
Director of Acquisitions and Investments: Moritz von Laffert
GLOBAL: Cond Nast E-commerce Division
President: Franck Zayan
The Cond Nast Group of Magazines includes:
USA
Vogue, Architectural Digest, Glamour, Brides, Self, GQ, Vanity Fair, Bon Apptit,
CN Traveler, Allure, Wired, Lucky, Teen Vogue,
The New Yorker, W, Details, Golf Digest, Golf World
UK
Vogue, House & Garden, Brides & Setting up Home, Tatler,
The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair, CN Traveller, Glamour,
Cond Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love, Wired
FRANCE
Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections, GQ, AD
Collector, Vanity Fair, Vogue Travel in France, GQ Le Manuel du Style
ITALY
Vogue, LUomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Glamour, Vogue Gioiello, Vogue Sposa,
AD, CN Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, GQ Style, Wired, Vogue Accessory, Myself,
La Cucina Italiana
GERMANY
Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Myself, Wired
SPAIN
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Nios, Sposabella, CN Traveler, Vogue
Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, Sposabella Portugal, AD, Vanity Fair
JAPAN
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding
TAIWAN
Vogue, GQ
RUSSIA
Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler, CN Traveller, Allure
MEXICO AND LATIN AMERICA
Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico and Latin America, AD
Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America
INDIA
Vogue, GQ, CN Traveller, AD
Published under Joint Venture:
BRAZIL
Published by Edies Globo Cond Nast S.A.Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour,
GQ Style
SPAIN
Published by Ediciones Conelpa, S.L: S Moda
Published under License:
AUSTRALIA
Published by NewsLifeMedia: Vogue, Vogue Living, GQ
BULGARIA
Published by S Media Team Ltd.: Glamour
CHINA
Published under copyright cooperation by China Pictorial: Vogue, Vogue
Collections. Published by IDG: Modern Bride Published under copyright
cooperation by Women of China: Self, AD, CN TravelerPublished under
copyright cooperation by China News Service: GQ, GQ Style
CZECH REPUBLIC AND SLOVAKIA
Published by CZ s.r.o: La Cucina Italiana
GERMANY
Published by Piranha Media GmbH: La Cucina Italiana
HUNGARY
Published by Axel Springer-Budapest Kiadi Kft: Glamour
KOREA
Published by Doosan Magazine: Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Allure, W, GQ Style
MIDDLE EAST
Published by Arab Publishing Partners EZ-LLC: CN Traveller
THE NETHERLANDS
Published by G + J Nederland: Glamour, Vogue Published by F&L Publishing Group
B.V.La Cucina Italiana
POLAND
Published by Burda International Polska: Glamour
PORTUGAL
Published by Edirevistas Sociedade de Publicaes, S.A: Vogue, GQ
ROMANIA
Published by MediaFax Group S.A: Glamour, GQ
SOUTH AFRICA
Published by Cond Nast Independent Magazines (Pty) Ltd
House & Garden, GQ, Glamour, House & Garden Gourmet, GQ Style
THAILAND
Published by Serendipity Media Co. Ltd: Vogue
TURKEY
Published by Dogus Media Group: Vogue, GQ Published by MC Basim Yayin
Reklam Hizmetleri Tic. LTD La Cucina Italiana
UKRAINE
Published by Publishing House UMH LLC: Vogue
Printed by The Artisan Press. Published by the proprietors,
The Cond Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S
1JU. Cond Nast Traveller is distributed by Cond Nast & National Magazine
Distributors Ltd (Comag), Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE
(tel: 01895 433600). Managing Director: Mike Mirams
THE BEST OF THE
GREEK ISLANDS

Feel the heat in Mexico Hippy chic on Formentera

European family villas Wonderful and wacky Texas
SUBSCRIBE NOW AT WWW.MAGAZINEBOUTIQUE.CO.UK

HAVE YOU MISSED
AN ISSUE?
Free Cowshed Cow Pat

moisturising hand cream
with every copy of the July
issue bought at UK newsstand
To order past copies call 01858 438819

or write to Cond Nast Traveller, Back Issues,
Tower House, Lathkill Street, Market
Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 9EF, enclosing
a cheque (no debit cards or cash accepted)
payable to The Cond Nast Publications Ltd.
Back issues cost 9.50 per copy within
the UK and 15 overseas (please note that not
all issues are available).
Please state the date of each issue required.
NEW THIS MONTH ONLINE
200 May 2014

Koh Lanta Santa Fe
Stockholm San Francisco
Italy The Hot List 2014
The Hot List 2014 The best new hotels in the world
Festival fever Our pick of the summers top tickets
Tables in the sun Outdoor eating in the UK
Glamour under canvas Glamping at home and abroad
PLUS Great ideas for a family getaway
ROOM WITH A VIEW
WHERE ARE WE? MIAMI, FLORIDA

TAKEN FROM ROOM 2708 AT THE SETAI
There may be all sorts of frisky newcomers muscling onto the Miami hotel scene right now, with the
COMO and the Redbury opened at the beginning of the year, Tommy Hilger taking over the reins
at The Raleigh, plus Ian Schragers Edition and the Faena both on the autumn horizon. But its The Setai that we keep coming back to.
The Art Deco building and adjoining glass tower, polished and awless thanks to last years facelift, are more Shanghai than South Beach,
with teak oors, bronze statues, buttery leather bar stools, carefully curated jade trinkets, and doorways blessed by Buddhist monks. The
Zen-like rooms have sweeping views, gigantic beds, monsoon showers and black-granite baths all scented with Roja Doves orange and
neroli. Theres a private stretch of beach just for guests, but really the thing to do is hang out poolside in the shade of those perfectly
lined-up palms. Loll on the daybeds, tuck into swordsh ceviche and order the rst of many Passion Martinis with chilli-infused vodka.
stunning spa, as youd expect, continues the Asian vibe. The Oriental Ritual includes an aromatherapy
INSIDE TIP The
foot polish and a 60-minute Balinese massage (the best hour youll spend in town). ARABELLA DUPONT
2001 Collins Avenue, Miami (+1 305 520 6000; www.thesetaihotel.com). Doubles from about 460
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN MORRELL
WHY WE LOVE IT
Epsom Downs Racecourse | 6-7 June 2014

investec.com/derby Follow us on
@investec_sport
To see everything that Investec does in specialist banking, asset management

and wealth & investment, visit us at investec.com/whatwedo
Investec Bank plc (Reg. no. 489604) is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Investec Asset Management
Limited (Reg. no. 2036094) is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Both are members of the London Stock Exchange. Registered at 2 Gresham Street, London EC2V 7QP.
PLEASE TURN THE PAGE TO VIEW SUPPLEMENT
WIN A WEEK AT ONE OF THAILANDS TOP HEALTH RETREATS
THE BEST SPAS

IN THE WORLD 2014
YOGA IN INDIA
ANTI-AGEING IN THE ALPS
DETOXING IN OMAN
WEIGHT LOSS IN FRANCE
GETTING FIT IN THE USA
+ THE MAYR CLINICS ASSESSED
THE SPA GUIDE

in association with
photographe Iris Velghe
Cuve Ros.
The Ultimate.
THE SPA GUIDE

W
hen did you last go dancing? Or watch the sun rise? Or feel free and light and easy and energised? Most of us
are juggling more than ever before. An alarming and growing number of us are tired, if not exhausted, for much of the
time. The lines on your face, that sore back, those tension headaches, that annoying bit of ab around your bottom, those
bitten ngernails, that end-of-day desire for a glass of wine or sneaky cigarette, even those recurrent 2am wakings all are
telling you that recharging your battery is fundamental to your health. And spas are about just that: learning to look after
yourself. They are not just a ight of fancy, or an expensive over-indulgence (which is why, along with our pick of the top
new-to-the scene players, weve also included some good-value options). The spas in this guide are about taking stock,
rebooting, rebuilding. Some are the ultimate in tuning out, others are truly educational, even life-changing. And we are
supported by the outstanding knowledge of the most esteemed spa tour operator out there, Healing Holidays, which
offers not only bespoke, personalised and most importantly impartial advice on where would truly suit you, but also
the best deals on the best programmes, which you wont nd anywhere else. Perhaps in no other area of travel is the
wisdom of a tour operator so crucial. You shouldnt starve and over-exercise if really what your body needs is rest and
recuperation. Healing Holidays knows its properties, and it is masterful at gently matching you to the right spa in the
right part of the world on a journey that wont wipe you out or leave you wondering if it was worth the money. Theres no
time to make mistakes when it comes to your health. This is the new Cond Nast Traveller Spa Guide. Our reviews are
the most honest, detailed and authoritative you will nd; a good massage isnt nearly good enough for us.
DAISY FINER, SPA GUIDE EDITOR
THIS YEARS WINNERS

B E S T N E W D E S T I N AT I O N S PA
M O S T E F F E C T I V E R E B O OT
S I X S E N S E S Z I G H Y B AY, OMAN
B E S T VA LU E F O R W E I G H T LO S S
M O S T S O U L F U L S PA
B E S T H E A LT H Y H I D E AWAY
VA N A , INDIA
A B S O LU T E S A N C T UA RY, THAIL AND
S O N G S A A , CAMBODIA
VA M I Z I I S L A N D , MOZAMBIQUE
M O S T AVA N T - GA R D E C L I N I C
LO N H E A , SWITZERL AND
MOST CONSISTENT HIGH PERFORMER
I N : S PA
ON THE COVER: CHEVAL BLANC SPA, CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI, MALDIVES PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARY ROZZI STYLED BY FIONA LINTOTT HAIR
AND MAKE-UP: RUTH WARRIOR USING GUERLAIN TERRACOTTA BRONZING MIST MODEL: AMBER ANDERSON BIKINI: LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ
EDITOR: MELINDA STEVENS PUBLISHER: SIMON LEADSFORD MANAGING DIRECTOR: NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
Spa Guide Editor: Daisy Finer Spa Guide Deputy Editor: Issy von Simson Acting Managing Editor: Jessica Diamond Art Director: Pete Winterbottom
Director of Photography: Caroline Metcalfe Deputy Art Director: Paula Ellis Art Editor: Jon-Paul Pezzolo Picture Editor: Karin Mueller
Chief Sub-Editor: Rick Jordan Senior Sub-Editor: Grinne McBride Sub-Editor: Davydd Chong
Associate Publisher: Juliette Ottley Advertisement Director: Erica Wong Projects Manager: Justine Board Senior Account Manager: Amy Cole
Promotions Director: Victoria Higgins Promotions Creative Director: Lee Osborne Promotions Co-Ordinator: Celia Thursfield
CONTRIBUTORS
CONNIE ALFREY, LYDIA BELL, HANNAH BETTS, ABI BUTCHER, CHRIS CALDICOTT, CATHERINE CHICHESTER, HARRIET CHUBB, ONDINE COHANE, BRITT
COLLINS, HARRIET COMPSTON, AMANDA CROSS, OLIVIA FALCON, KAYLA JACOBS, FIONA LINTOTT, SALLY LOVETT, GRAINNE MCBRIDE, GABRIEL ORORKE,
ANNA PASTERNAK, HELEN PICKLES, ADRIAANE PIELOU, EMINE ALI RUSHTON, EMMA STRENNER, CAROLINE SYLGER JONES, CATHERINE TURNER
Copyright The Cond Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed in the UK by The Artisan Press Ltd. Colour origination by CLX
Europe Media Solution Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The title Cond Nast Traveller is
registered at US Patent Office and in Great Britain as a trademark. All prices correct at time of going to press but subject to change. The Mail Order Protection
Scheme does not cover items featured editorially. Not to be sold separately from Cond Nast Traveller
HOTEL PRICES ARE LOW-SEASON RATES. INFORMATION IS CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS. FACILITIES AND SERVICES DESCRIBED, AND PRICES QUOTED, MAY HAVE CHANGED BY
THE TIME OF PUBLICATION. PRICE DISCLAIMER: UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED ALL TOUR OPERATOR PACKAGE PRICES ARE PER PERSON, BASED ON TWO PEOPLE SHARING
June 2014 Spa Guide 3
BIG HITTERS
The results-driven retreats that pack a real punch
4 Spa Guide June 2014
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS CALDICOTT
NEW
VA N A
BEST NEW
DESTINATION
SPA
UTTARAKHAND, INDIA
IN BRIEF Holistic therapies meet high design

THE LOWDOWN For a land you might reasonably expect to be their
spiritual home, India has always been strangely lacking in wellness retreats.
In January, that changed with the opening of Vana, the countrys most
exciting new spa in years. Vana thrills like nowhere else, delivering all
the know-how, style and authenticity that health junkies have long
sought. Its a ve-star home for proper Ayurveda and traditional Chinese
medicine, almost 100 per cent organic, with spot-on diagnoses and one
dreamy, four-handed massage after another. Top doctors and therapists
work in sustainable buildings crafted out of stone, wood and bamboo.
There are 50 treatment and consultation rooms, three yoga studios and
a pavilion, indoor and outdoor pools, a gym, a ritual spa for longer
treatments, a private Watsu pool and even a Tibetan healing centre.
Su hymns and Buddhist chants were sung at the opening. Vana is the
vision of Veer Singh, a 31-year-old Harrovian who is one of Indias most
eligible bachelors and heir to the Indian equivalent of BUPA. The retreat,
on the Malsi Estate near Dehradun in Uttarakhand, is the rst stage in
Singhs plans for a global brand focusing on emotional, physical, spiritual
and mental therapy. Guests will certainly need a dose of all those after
being rattled along rural roads for an hour; remote northern India is not
the easiest place to reach. Still, on arrival they willnd themselves
welcomed into a sanctuary. Built according to the ancient rules of Vaastu
Shastra (Ayurvedas answer to feng shui) the estate is the work of Spanish
architects Esteva i Esteva, whom Singh met while spending a year working
on a farm in Mallorca in preparation for setting up Vanas kitchen gardens.
Its 90 rooms are light-lled, with large balconies and comfortable beds:
the duvets and pillows are lled with goose down and the organic linen
is sourced from southern India. Off the huge atrium of the main building
lies the restaurant, a boutique selling exquisite, hand-embroidered
Abraham & Thakore silk kaftans (an unexpected bargain at about 85)
and a ight of cleverly lit stairs leading to the serene medical and
treatment centre. Even the receptionists laptops have wooden cases to
ensure they blend in with the otherwise empty desk. With us, treatment
does not start with a pill, says Dr Avilochan Singh, who carries out a
detailed consultation before prescribing a daily schedule. This holistic
approach is echoed by other members of the team.Be happy and make
those around you happy that is the secret of health! says Dr Jitendra
Uniyal, an acupuncturist and specialist in traditional Chinese medicine,
as he adroitly slides needles into your scalp.The Chinese used to
keep their traditional medicine a secret. Now the secret is out and we
all know everything! Especially here, it seems.A nutritionist will explain
chronobiotics and the best plants to eat at certain times of the day:
foods that grow on trees in the morning, on the ground at midday and
underground in the evening. In the spa rooms, which are high-ceilinged,
bamboo-oored and empty except for the bed, sweet andplump-palmed
therapists administer massages that leave you tottering and incoherent.
The treatments, which surpass expectation, are a reminder of how
intrinsic holistic wellness is to Indian culture. The main restaurant serves
delightful soups, smoothies and snippets of vegetarian deliciousness,
and then theres the dedicated and airy Ayurvedic restaurant, which
allows guests on the Panchakarma detox (unbeatable for weight loss)
to eat their micro-meals in peace. Vana is not a place you dip into for a
weekend. Its about total immersion and turning around your lifestyle in
the purest yet most polished of surroundings.
INSIDER TIP Dont tie yourself in knots trying to get there in a day, stop
off overnight in New Delhi. Stay at The Leela Palace with its exquisite spa,
before the short onward ight to Dehradun in the morning.
BOOK IT Healing Holidays (+44 20 7843 3592; www.healingholidays.
co.uk/condenast) offers an eight-night Involved Wellness programme
from 2,169 full board, including ights, transfers, a wellness consultation
and daily treatments.
G R A N D R E S O R T B A D R AGA Z
ST GALLEN, SWITZERL AND
IN BRIEF Slick, effective and clinically precise

THE LOWDOWN If youre considering cosmetic surgery, need
rehabilitative care following a sports injury or hospital procedure,
or have been dissatised with treatment of a specic health issue,
this is the place for you.It will help, too, if youre not averse to
elaborate spa treatments in lavish surroundings, and dressing for
meals cooked by a Michelin-awarded chef. Switzerland is home to
some of the nest medi-spas in the world, and the Grand Resort
Bad Ragaz is arguably the best of the lot.Impeccably run, it has
a pristine medical centre with its own operating theatres. The
latest star to join the staff, Professor Hermann F Sailer, is a pioneer
of the reverse facelift, a procedure carried out within the oral
cavity, leaving no telltale scars.He has also developed a snorestopping operation involving lower-jaw rotation, which might be
furiously expensive but could save your sanity. There are sleep
clinics, burn-out prevention packages and anti-ageing programmes:
everything from Botox and llers to acid peels and laser therapy,
overseen by Dr Claudia Steiner. The centre also specialises in broken
veins, skin discolouration, analysis of moles and skin-cancer care,
with patients ocking here from all over the world. The enormous
spa is staffed by talented therapists who are more than a match
for their impressive surroundings; try massages and facials by big
brands such as La Prairie, Sisley and Carita. There are 267
immaculate, high-ceilinged, antique-lled bedrooms spread across
two Grand Hotels the Quellenhof and the Hof Ragaz but make
sure you stay in the new wing of spa suites, which have their own
steam rooms and saunas, and loos so hi-tech they come equipped
with a remote control. Mini bars are stocked with healthy snacks,
and guests are provided with a small rucksack and hiking map
exploring the surrounding countryside should be high on the agenda.
All this lavishness stands on Lake Constance,an hour by train from
Zrich.The village of Bad Ragaz has been a health resort since
the 1840s, and now the entire spa complex is plumbed into the
thermal water, so its used for everything from swimming in the main
pool (one of 10) to brushing teeth. Food-wise,you can stick to a
fully controlled spa diet or choose from wonderful, local organic
salads and antipasti, including herrings soaked in olive oil and thyme,
marinated artichokes in parsley and garlic, shredded beetroot
in lemon juice, and plum-sized olives on a bed of mixed leaves.
For efficiency and effectiveness, look no further.
INSIDER TIP You can safely recommend this place to your richest,
most demanding acquaintances, whatever their age or health issues.
Young stars of the Swiss Olympics squad work with the medical team.
BOOK IT Healing Holidays (+44 20 7843 3592; www.healing
holidays.co.uk/condenast) offers four nights from 6,120 full
board, including ights, transfers, medical consultation and
anti-ageing treatment.
BIG HITTERS
GA I A R E T R E AT & S PA
BYRON BAY, AUSTRALIA
IN BRIEF Gorgeous hippy hangout for a lifestyle rethink

THE LOWDOWN While many of those who ock to Byron Bay are
after plain old good times, a large number come seeking solutions to the
questions and anxieties of modern life. Reiki masters, astrologists,
reexologists, spiritual healers and witches are a dime a dozen, and
downtown is full of juice bars and raw-food outlets. However rich the
Bay gets (and this is some of the most expensive real estate in Australia),
its still out there. Gaia was launched by Olivia Newton-John and her
interior-designer buddy Gregg Cave in 2005. The pair came across the
down-at-heel Bangalow Palms Health Farm while looking for
a farmhouse for Cave to buy, and decided to convert the semi-derelict
resort into a temple to wholesome food and holistic therapies. Its hard
to describe just how idyllic the spot is, with its
emerald-green rolling hills and valleys unfolding
in a tableau of Cotwolds-style prettiness, bathed in
the warmth of the Australian sun. The spa ethos
leans resolutely towards treatments that tend the
spirit as well as the body, hence psychic readings,
astrology and counselling join iridology and
craniosacral balancing therapies. Daily activities
are also thrown in, from sound healing to yoga
and tai chi. Danielle Davies, a former model with
a second string of expertise in Australian native
birds and wildlife, leads a yogic team focusing on
hatha with elements of Iyengar and ashtanga, with
90 minutes of monitored practice kicking off the
day, often preceded by a warm-up of qigong. The
usual massages, facials and beauty and body treats
are available, too. Most ludicrously overindulgent
is the Gaia Goddess (or Gaia Man) which involves
four-and-a-half hours of pampering (body polish,
body mask, scalp massage, full body massage, facial, hand and foot
treatment) using locally made organic products, and is guaranteed
to send you into a blissful trance. The most Byron is the Esoteric
Breast Massage, which focuses on restoring nurturing honour to
the fairer sex. The food ethos at Gaia is bringing the produce of the
kitchen garden to your plate, topped up with the fruits of the regions
orchards, plantations and farms (you can also join a weekly cooking
class). Its not at all austerity: theres organic wine, chicken, seafood
and desserts, the loveliest being the coconut kaffir-lime rice pudding
with mango pure and ginger praline. But theres a lightness of touch
from the chef to keep the spring in your step. Its 22 rooms and suites,
all with private decks and some with day beds, are grouped around
a Samoan-style longhouse amid the jacaranda
trees and native bush. The gardens are dotted
with hammocks, meditation benches and Tibetan
urns, but if this sounds too sedate, the sights,
sounds and surng of Byron are within easy
distance. For those seeking a non-judgmental
panacea to the ailments of modern living, Gaia
is a safe place to unpick what went wrong and
determine how to make it right. If its good
enough for Oprah (or so the rumours go) its
surely good enough for the rest of us.
INSIDER TIP For a slug of alternative Byron sign
up for a Kahuna massage with Kate Little, best
described as a kooky fusion of spiritual healing
and massage. Youll feel sparkly afterwards.
BOOK IT From about 530 for a two-night
package, full board, including yoga, one
massage and group activities. +61 2 6687 1216;
www.gaiaretreat.com.au
T H E FA R M AT S A N B E N I TO
LIPA, PHILIPPINES
IN BRIEF Far-ung and fabulous tropical medi-spa

THE LOWDOWN Opened in 2003, the Philippines only medical
health retreat is well worth the 14-and-a-half-hour ight. Its set in
an unplugged jungly oasis; a place where you can make big changes
in stupendous surroundings among coconut, bamboo and guyabano
trees, with green mountains in the distance and peacocks roaming
the lawns. Its impressively holistic, yet guests are under the care
of medically trained doctors; the director, Dr Marian Alonzo, is an
especially calming presence. Come for a general wellness holiday,
to lose weight, to detox or to beautify your skin (the skin therapy is
good for acne, eczema and psoriasis). On a more serious level, there
are retreats dedicated to diabetes management, heart health and
recovery from radio- and chemotherapy. Long-term stays are
encouraged and, unusually, you can bring your children along. Every
conceivable form of treatment is on offer, from live blood analysis to
acupuncture, ozone therapy and colonics. Theres pampering, too:
scrubs, wraps and a huge variety of massages take place at the tranquil
Healing Sanctuary, centred on a cooling pool graced by frangipani
trees. Book a Ventosa cupping session, where warmed glasses are
applied to the back, creating a vacuum that is said to help draw out
toxins; the sucking sensation when the glasses are removed is curiously
satisfying. All the therapists are exceptionally thorough even the skin
brushing is an hour long and includes your scalp. Do circuit or interval
training, daily yoga and guided walks, or private tai chi with Dr Ron
in your room (the Narra Pool Villas have mini-pools and balconies
looking over the tree tops). Spa acionados may be disappointed at

the lack of a steam room or hot tub, and some public areas feel a little
less polished than you might want, but what makes this place stand
out is the heartfelt approach of the therapists, and of course the
setting, which is as far from clinical as you could possibly imagine.
INSIDER TIP Daily yoga takes place in a wooden pavilion facing the
lake and the mountains beyond. Mr Bee is great for beginners;
the more experienced should join a class run by Paolo.
BOOK IT Specialised seven-day healing retreats, from 2,464 full
board, including treatments and medical consultations (+63 918
884 8078; www.thefarmatsanbenito.com). Philippine Airlines
(+44 1293 596680; www.philippineairlines.com) ies ve times
a week from Heathrow to Manila.
BIG HITTERS
S I X S E N S E S Z I G H Y B AY
MOST
EFFECTIVE
REBOOT
MUSANDAM PENINSUL A, OMAN

the resort is also twinkly enough for couples. The Sense on the
Edge restaurant, hidden up in the mountains, sparkles at night like an
exotic palace, with exquisite food and wide-open views. For health
junkies, Zighy Bay ticks every box. Everything you can imagine is on
offer and executed with style, incredible care and superlative knowhow. You can hike or bike in the mountains, go yogic, meditate on the
rooftop or sweat over the wildly challenging, heart-pumping bootcamps
(where you exercise for eight-hour stints at a time, kayaking, swimming,
and hurling yourself across horizontal ladders). Or embark on a
proper detox programme with hardcore training, mind clearance with
mentor Steve Harvey (if you could see him every day for a whole
week, youd be sorted) and pure, cleansing food including green juices
for breakfast, lush protein lunches and slimming soup for supper.
And then, when its time to op, nibble on caramel-like fresh dates
in the comfort of the spa. Treatments are decadent but results-driven:
a vigorous Indian head massage which involves drenching the hair
in coconut oil then wrapping it in hot towels also irons out the creases
of your brain. Even the wraps and facials are beyond the norm. The
Arabian facial, for example, combines gs, almond powder, honey
and magic hands. Also available are reiki, singing bowls, cupping,
acupressure, the Bowen Technique and all manner of lefteld holistic
treats. This is one of the best and healthiest hotels in the Middle
East, a world away from the Disney-esque vibe of Dubai and with
an approach that is soulful rather than formulaic.
INSIDER TIP The hotels DVD selection is dire, and the movies
available through the TV system are about three years old. So bring
your own, especially if you are detoxing, as the evenings are long.
BOOK IT Villas from 407 per night. A seven-day Wellness Programme
costs 965 per person. +968 2673 5555; www.sixsenses.com.
Emirates (+44 844 800 2777; www.emirates.com) ies ve times
a day from Heathrow to Dubai.
PHOTOGRAPH:DAN KULLBERG
IN BRIEF Transforming, directional programmes in the sun

THE LOWDOWN Six Senses excels at the modern eco-luxe combo, and
you dont have to trek all the way to Thailand to enjoy it. Just a couple of
hours drive from Dubai, this pocket of peace feels like a rustic, ancient
Omani village with its sandy paths, low-cushioned daybeds and palms,
gs and lime bushes dotted around. But every detail is considered,
from the thrill of the villas, private pools, outdoor showers and butlers
to buggy you about, to the super-slick boats from which you can watch
the sun set while sipping on fresh date juice, to the top-notch spa
where candles icker and you only have to look at the therapists to know
they are going to be good, exceptional even. When it rst opened in
2008, Zighy Bay received a mixed reception: it was judged too barren,
its service below par. But it is this sense of isolation, this otherworldly,
Mad Max-meets-The-Flintstones setting, that lends the resort its
unique stop-the-clock vibe. A few years on, now that it has put down
roots (theres an immaculate organic vegetable garden, too), its in full
swing, with staff that are perfectly pitched and zippy. The only real
disappointment is that the low-slung, beige brick villas are built rather
close together, though miraculously you still barely see another person
even when the place is busy. The weather is hot right when you need
it to be the best time to visit is between November and the end of
March and nothing is nicer than eeing the British winter and nding
yourself amid the delicious hot sands of the Omani desert, with
starry skies above you, the dramatic sandstone Al Hajar mountains
looming behind and the waters of the Gulf of Oman gently lapping
the empty beach (sunbeds are grouped together in one area,
leaving the rest of the bay clear). You can bring the family, as theres
a playground, tennis courts and an excellent childrens club (free
for four-year-olds and above) which will introduce them to crabhunting, marine biology, henna-tattooing and movies on the beach,
with popcorn and more than 40 different avours of ice cream. But
BIG HITTERS
C H I VA - S O M
HUA HIN, THAIL AND
C A N YO N R A N C H
ARIZONA, USA
IN BRIEF All-singing, all-dancing American institution

THE LOWDOWN Its 9am and people are returning from a two-hour
desert hike; others are streaming into the open-air caf for breakfast
after an early yoga session, while some pile into the rst of 40-plus
exercise classes. Ten hours later, a meditation session closes the
days programme. For an inspiring boost in a setting that captures the
allure of the Wild West, its hard to beat this haienda-style spa near
the desert city of Tucson. With an emphasis on exercise and more
exercise, its the place to get stuck into high-energy Zumba, sweat it
out at spinning and another half-a-dozen activities a day, and
challenge yourself to have a go at something new. It doesnt matter
how old or how t you are. Each of the sessions is rated beginner,
intermediate or advanced, but the ethos of positivity combined with
the size of the place (it can accommodate more than 240 people
when full) means guests can safely lurk in the back row, be rubbish,
and either remain gratefully anonymous or just get an encouraging
grin. That autonomy extends to mealtimes, too. The calorie, fat and
carb content of each dish (recipes for which can be found on the
spas website) are listed on the menu each day, and while most meals
come in at around 350 or 400 calories, theres the option of having
it all in one dish the 350-calorie apple cinnamon crusted oatmeal
for breakfast or across several, such as the 240-cal baked cod with
olives, say, plus the 110-cal black coconut rice or 140-cal banana
bread pudding with (a teaspoon of) chocolate sauce. Canyon Ranch
was set up in 1979 on the site of the famous Double U riding ranch
by an overweight businessman who smoked, drank, felt bad about
himself and realised there was nowhere anyone like him could go to
lose weight and learn how to get t. Now in his 80s, still lean and
energetic, Mel Zuckerman is a familiar gure at the spa. After youve
been once, you feel like family, they look after you so well, a whippetthin grief counsellor from Manhattan says intently. They know I like a
5.30am game of tennis, so theyll call the instructor to come in early.
Gulp. With 20 per cent discounts for rst-time visitors, a two-for-one
special for graduating students and intensive Life Enhancement
packages for people who want to radically change their existence
in a week, its an astonishing, all-encompassing proposition.
INSIDER TIP Dont miss the equine therapy classes, where you get
the chance to have celebrated neurosurgeon Dr Allan Hamilton
(Harvard-trained, consultant to Greys Anatomy and author of
The Scalpel And The Soul and Zen Mind, Zen Horse) teach you the
rudiments of non-verbal communication with the aid of a particularly
patient horse. Categorise it as a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
holidays.co.uk/condenast) offers seven nights from 4,155 full
board, including ights, transfers, activities and daily classes.
IN BRIEF Top-of-its-game Thai legend

THE LOWDOWN Those who have enjoyed the Chiva-Som experience
often deploy the epithet life-changing; they also tend to return. A lot.
It is not unusual to come across zealots who visit a couple of times a
year, every year, just to keep its feel-good momentum ticking over.
Staff throw green juice-fuelled festivities to celebrate visitors 20th,
30th and even 40th Chiva anniversaries. Its a trailblazer that many lesser
institutions have modelled themselves on (though its now a bit frayed
around the edges); the thinking persons spa, if you will, though your
hosts will happily do some of the thinking for you. Chiva-Som means
haven of life, which is no exaggeration if you generously gloss over the
outdated Thai-themed decor, a disappointing public beach, and a
timetable that is meticulously scheduled and utterly rigid. The food is
astonishingly good: nowhere does health taste better or more
sophisticated. Portions will readily be doubled should they feel too
constricted, and it would be difficult to feel deprived after being served
duck dumpling, rock lobster curry and the many ingenious chocolate
treats coupled with whey-protein ice cream. On arrival, guests attend a
wellness consultation to set objectives for their stay and beyond, and a
strict schedule is constructed, including daily massage. From here,
subsequent specialists may be sought out, be they physical, medical or
emotional or, typically, some super-charged combination of the three.
These practitioners are all totally on the ball and no therapeutic CV is
considered complete without a sojourn in the cathedral-scale spa.
Experts provide written advice for visitors to take away, plus suggestions
for specialists across the globe. And the treatment manual is an
encyclopaedia of surgical, cosmetic and alternative therapies, from
physiotherapy and sacred crystal healing, facials and thread lifts, live
blood analysis and a deep blue cleanse, to colonic hydrotherapy and
remedies for iPhone nger, plus everything in between. Add a huge
array of daily tness classes, including yoga, aqua aerobics, tai chi and
gyrokinesis (a yoga/dance fusion) and you have a programme so
complex it rivals that of the UN Secretary General; never have attempts
at self-reform felt more strenuously supported. The cost is as serious
as the approach, its shop rivalling Harrods for prices, though a stay here
is still considerably cheaper than at many swanky medi-spas. The
timetables may pull couples in radically different directions while lone
travellers sit by contentedly, but everybody is superbly looked after.
INSIDER TIP The utterly exhausted may want to defuse elsewhere
beforehand so they are decompressed enough to take advantage of
everything on offer. Do this and you will happily embrace the enormity
of it all. Dont and you may rebel, not least when your Kindle is snatched
from you (the no-computer rule includes electronic books).
co.uk/condenast) offers seven nights from 3,075 full board, including
ights, transfers, daily massages, consultation and tness activities.
BIG HITTERS
C O M O S H A M B H A L A E S TAT E
BALI, INDONESIA
IN BRIEF Picture-perfect, magical rainforest retreat

THE LOWDOWN Understated yet outstanding, this resort delivers on
every level. The scenery is dramatic: Balinese jungle with giant, arching
bamboo; trees as tall as skyscrapers and cicadas as loud as police sirens.
Yet amid all this, in a sheer, calm expanse with grass so perfect it
appears to have been manicured with nail scissors, theres ultimate
stillness. This land is blessed daily by two resident priests. Make the
pilgrimage down 250 steps and youll nd sacred springs that bubble up,
creating natural waterfalls and swimming pools. There is a magic about
these cool, tingling, healing waters hidden amid the foliage. Staff glide
by like ghosts, barely noticeable yet totally plugged in, anticipating every
need. Enveloped in nature, you feel completely safe and comfortable
letting go. Emotional releases are welcomed and almost expected. You
can pretend that you are weeping at the sheer extravagance and beauty
of the lotus owers and bright-orange African tulip trees when really
it is the paucity of your self-love that has oored you. Visiting healers
are exceptional, and in-house Ayurvedic doctor Deepak Deginal is
a must-see. He reads pulses like braille and is uncannily accurate with
his appraisal of guests emotional and medical state. Yoga with Eka will
leave you in a trance. His style is simple: the movements involved feel
minimal, but goodness, something shifts. Everything here is geared
to awaken your senses, so it is impossible not to come alive. The big
cleanse happens on a digestive level as the food is unparalleled. Glow
restaurant is nutritional nirvana, serving up simple, turbo-healthy meals,
including an extensive raw-food option. The kaleidoscopic drinks
menu of fresh extractions and blends packs an antioxidant punch with
antidotes to every ailment from hormonal imbalances and nervesoothing to stimulating the immune system. Boosters include royal jelly
and raw Peruvian maca. Guests are affluent and the vibe is cool, making
the COMO Shambhala Estate feel like the most sophisticated healing
hospital ingeniously disguised as a slick destination spa.
INSIDER TIP Do not leave home without pre-booking your appointment
with Oriental medicine practitioner David Melladew, who provides
a masterful combination of acupuncture and spiritual healing.
co.uk/condenast) offers a seven-night Rejuvenation Programme
from 2,799 full board, including ights, transfers, wellness
consultation and treatments.
official
sun protection
supplier
10 hours sun protection with just one application

Put it on in the morning. Enjoy your day. Its that simple. P20 dries quickly to give you
and your family 10 hours of proven sun protection even after frequent swimming
throughout the day. Choose from the original SPF20 clear lotion or the new range
of SPFs 15, 30 or 50+ in a handy clear spray. Stay safe in the sun with P20.
For further information and to nd stockists of P20 visit www.p20.co.uk and join us at
www.facebook.com/p20sun
One application lasts 10 hours Very water resistant
Active after 15 minutes Easy to apply No added preservatives
The recommended retail price of P20 is 13.29 (100ml) and 24.49 (200ml). Distributed in the UK by Godrej Consumer Products (UK) Ltd.
WEIGHT LOSS
Foolproof regimes to leave you feeling lighter and brighter
C O N S TA N C E L E P R I N C E M AU R I C E
POSTE DE FL ACQ, MAURITIUS
IN BRIEF Fasting and feasting on the beach

THE LOWDOWN Where better to get the hang ofthe 5:2routine,
with all its intermittent starving, than on holiday? Journalist Mimi
Spencer, who co-wrote the best-selling book The Fast Dietwith
DrMichael Mosley,has devised her own Kickstart The Fast Diet
programme for guests at Constances agship hotel in Mauritius. And
its rather easy to stave off your hunger here, with soothing treatments,
tness activities and spot-on service to divert your attention. On the
diet, calorie intake is reduced to 500 per day for women and 600 for
men a quarter of the normal recommendation two days a week. In
addition to weight loss, its benets are said to include a reduction in
the risk of age-related diseases such as diabetes. On all the menus, the
dishes that Spencer regards as nutritious, tasty and low-calorie are
agged up by a symbol. On a fast day, you might breakfast on poached
eggs with smoked marlin (175 calories) and a dinner of albacore tuna
carpaccio with celeriac and preserved lemon (112 calories) and a side
dish of parsley peas and onion pickles (64 calories). To distract you
from snacking, theres beachside yogic stretching on giant yellow towels

with the lithe Isabelle, a personal trainer from France; one-to-one
Pilates and tness sessions, tennis courts, a nearby golf course, a gym
and a lap pool for lengths. If you get itchy feet, ask Rajiv to take you out
on a bike ride through the sugarcane elds. The hotels courtyard spa,
with its sauna, steam rooms and ice-cold plunge pool, has treatments
including a Mimi recommends digestive massage, lymphatic drainage
or detoxifying wrap for fast days. Also worth signing up for are a hydrating
Sisley facial with Volena, a wondrous shiatsu with Darje and a medical
pedicure with ParisianFranck Douni. With any luck, on your return
youll feel so good youll want to continue eating the 5:2 way. It can take
a while to see results, but its a much better bet than quick-x diets.
INSIDER TIP Hang out at the beach on non-fasting days; attentive staff
will occasionally deliver a mini-tub of Hagen-Dazs to your sunbed.
BOOK IT Audley (+44 1993 838250; www.audleytravel.com) offers
seven nights from 1,910, including ights, transfers and a Kickstart
The Fast Diet information pack.
WEIGHT LOSS
LES PRES DEUGENIE
PHOTOGRAPH: GUILLAUME DE LAUBIER
L ANDES, FRANCE
IN BRIEF French gourmand philosophy that works

THE LOWDOWN If there is one place on earth where embarking
on a prescriptive diet doesnt feel like a penance, it is at this
magnicent, Second Empire-style estate surrounded by gardens
in the heart of Gascony. Here is somewhere that is superbly pretty;
a spot that few people know about and whose traditional formality
but soulful heart would encourage even the likes of Gordon Ramsay
to get onboard its weight-loss agenda. Its as far from a clinical
environment as you could imagine: a mini-kingdom of herb beds,
high ceilings, chunky marble baths, LOccitaine bathroom goodies,
painted wardrobes and roaring log res. The menu takes centre
stage, so prepare for food that will entice even the most reluctant
dieter. Iconic French chef Michel Gurard has ensured that this
centre of epicurean excellence has held three Michelin stars for
37 years; no lacklustre buffets here. With dishes such as poached
beef llet, lobster carpaccio, and chocolate cream yes, you
can expect puddings it is hard to believe that kilos will be shed.
But the medically supervised nine- or 12-day Minceur Essentielle
programme, devised by Gurard and nutritionist Dr Patrick Srog,
is the result of years of extensive research and a shared belief
that great health and a slim silhouette neednt require an ascetic
lifestyle. The schedule also includes four resculpting hot-spring
treatments per day, daily personal training sessions and fullthrottle dietary and medical consultations. The approach is utterly
bespoke throughout the three phases: starter (triggering weight
loss), metabolic adaption (intensifying weight loss and physical
activity) and cruise control (preparation for the return home,
with a calorie intake closer to everyday life). Results are monitored
not only with scales and a tape measure, but also with
bioimpedance analysis at the beginning and end of the programme,
which reveals the ratio of fat, water and muscle in the body and
gives an accurate and reassuring picture of your progress. It also
serves as a reminder that body redenition is equally as important,
if not more so, as losing the pounds. In the spa, the smell of the
natural, hot sulphuric springs mingles with the sharp citrus notes
of verbena. Treatments include oating weightlessly in a kaolinclay mud bath and vigorous pummelling by water jets in heated
pools. Ccile Ledru and her spa team are warm and professional;
book Marian for a facial: she has bewitching hands and will
send you spinning off into other realms. The gym has no need
of sophisticated equipment as trainer Martin Foy focuses on
effective exercise regimes you can continue at home, and when
the weather permits he will conduct training in the beautiful
surrounding countryside. The interiors are equally agreeable:
Michels wife Christine has an elegant touch and each of the
estates buildings is gorgeously decorated, supremely comfortable
and, above all, restful. No wonder this is a favourite haunt of
A-listers. Barbra Streisand visited during her last European tour
and actor Robin Williams chose to recuperate here after heart
surgery. Despite its impressive credentials, the overall ambience
is one of a big happy family. The attentive, caring staff bend over
backwards to ensure your visit is a memorable one, and Michel
himself is ever-present, whether in the kitchen or lunching in his
own restaurant. At 80 years old, he emanates glowing health and
is the best advertisement for his unique programme.
INSIDER TIP Arrive one night early and go out with a pre-detox
bang by sampling one of the full-on, all-singing, all-dancing tasting
menus. Dressing for dinner is de rigueur, so pack accordingly.
BOOK IT The Healthy Holiday Company (+44 20 8968 0501;
www.thehealthyholidaycompany.co.uk) offers the nine-night
Minceur Essentielle programme from 4,665 full board,
including ights and transfers.
BEST
VALUE FOR
WEIGHT
LOSS
A B S O LU T E S A N C T UA RY
KOH SAMUI, THAIL AND
IN BRIEF Hardcore detoxing and incredible yoga

THE LOWDOWN If youre serious about cleansing, feeling 10 years
younger and seeing your stomach shrink, but are reluctant to splash
out at swankier spas, this place is for you. Dont expect a spiritual
setting: there are no sea views, no jungly gardens, no private beach;
and the rooms, while decorative, are pretty basic. But this place really
does deliver, and youre likely to return home with an uncluttered
mind, having banished niggles and pains and lumps and bumps that
youve harboured for ever. Programmes can be mixed and matched
to suit your needs. The most effective involves fasting and is based
on the philosophy that giving your digestive system a break allows
your body to heal itself. This means no solid food; instead, days are
punctuated with surprisingly lling drinks of psyllium husk and
bentonite clay, broths with a sprinkling of salt to balance your
electrolytes, and heavenly coconut water that you will seriously look
forward to. This can be combined to powerful effect with daily,
self-administered colonics (not for the faint-hearted), though even
without these youll be racing to the loo no wonder you feel so
light and energetic. Youll be well looked-after and given a mass of
educational information and supplements so you dont miss out on
any nutrients. And, of course, the heat and sunshine do make the
whole thing a smidge easier to bear. Plus, the therapists are the sort
that remind you why its worth travelling to Asia. There are Pevonia
facials, scrubs and wraps, but what you really want is the pressurepoint massage, which is painful but terrically effective at releasing
tension. And with treatments starting at 35, theyre affordable
enough to really treat yourself. On top of all this, theres the most
fantastic yoga (the teachers really are stellar) with at least four
classes a day, covering ashtanga, vinyasa, yin, hatha, hot, pranayama
and meditation. Youll return with a newfound mindfulness about
how you feed yourself, as well as a much more svelte silhouette.
INSIDER TIP Buy the cookbook, Food Made With Love From The Love
Kitchen. Itll help you stick to healthy eating when you get home.
co.uk/condenast) offers eight nights from 1,850 full board,
including ights, transfers, a wellness consultation and detox
treatments. Cond Nast Traveller readers will receive two additional
free nights and a complimentary room upgrade on booking.
WEIGHT LOSS
A N A N DA I N T H E H I M A L AYA S
UTTARAKHAND, INDIA
IN BRIEF Amazing Ayurveda, high in the mountains

THE LOWDOWN Everything you need to lose those pounds is here:
cleansing diets, cellulite-busting treatments and workouts that will
leave you spinning.Days are punctuated by personal training, yoga,
swimming, boxing sessions and enemas. Dont panic, though: this
is not a bootcamp or starvation clinic, and a happy dose of nurturing
food is provided. Hit your thighs hard with a bracing temple trek; it
will be blindingly sweaty, but the views of the snow-capped mountains
soon silence any whinging. Tone yourself to the core in the gym
with personal trainer Lakan, letting him stretch and push you. Jump
into the sparkling pool and bash out some lengths before opping
onto a sunbed, fresh juice in hand. Theres a fantastic amount of
yoga on offer: best is the sleep-inducing nidra and pranayama (breath
control), which is taught with such seriousness by Manish that you
actually want to practise this involves panting like an overexcited
spaniel, humming like a bee, sneeze-inducing nose tricks and
rhythmic breathing. Vedanta lessons hammer home the Ayurvedic
way of life (bed before sunset, no sleeping during the day), cooking
classes make you vow never to touch chocolate again, and spa
treatments continue the good work. The resident autist adds to the
air of calm, but dont be deceived: a Sneha Vasti (oil enema) is just
around the corner. Or, if youre not so brave, theres thejet-shower
blitz to improve circulation and rm your wobbly bits. The force of
the water stings, but the therapist is sniper-like in her efficiency, so
youre not stuck there for long. Finish with a pampering treatment
to pummel out stress and toxins (the Aroma Cocoon isdeliciously
detoxifying). The food is almost devilishly good, with sweet pepperstuffed polenta roulade and ginger, coriander and coconut-infused
steamed chicken breast. Its calorie-controlled, too, and tailored to
J U I C Y OA S I S
VALE DO SERRAO, PORTUGAL
IN BRIEF Wallet-friendly juicing retreat close to home

THE LOWDOWN Founded by Jason Vale, self-styled juice master,
life coach and author of 7lbs In 7 Days (you can see the draw) this is
a fresher, more upmarket alternative to Juicy Mountain, his set-up in
Turkey, and is only an hour and a half from Lisbon. While it may sound
like a grim prospect to survive on no solids for a whole week, youre
here to tone up, slim down and get beach-ready quickly. Theres no
bar and certainly no restaurant, only a caf serving salads on changeover
day. Meals are replaced with nutritionally packed juices and smoothies
including the Blood Builder, a bright-pink blend of apple, avocado,
beetroot, carrot and lemon; power-green shots and small ginger chasers,
all served at regular intervals throughout the day in between scheduled
activities. While you may take a dive mood-wise, you really dont
feel hungry, and its more the ritual of mealtimes that you will nd
yourself missing (plus, of course, chewing). Not that theres much
time for mourning knife-and-fork action. From 6.45am till 8pm, theres
meditation; ashtanga yoga with Nat, who has the boys clamouring
to sign up to her Strictly Come Dancing class; long walks through the
hillside for those getting cabin fever; volleyball, which gets seriously
competitive when Jasons involved; swimming in the nearby lake; circuits
with the kick-ass, take-no-prisoners Kym, and rebounding, which is
basically jumping on a mini trampoline to One Direction tracks. Smash
it on the cardio during the group exercises and youll see the difference
almost straight away, even if you do ache all over. If youre here for
peace and a rest, you can take the pace down, and during the hottest
parts of the day theres time for poolside lounging, nutritional talks
involving lots of cheesy soundbites like Are you hungry for change?
as well as spa treatments such as facials, mani/pedis and a range
of body massages that are good without being particularly special.

Far more functional is the colonic menu, which further helps to ush
out your system; this is a safe and relaxed place to try one if youre
a novice. Evenings are spent watching health-related documentaries
such as Food Matters and You Decide, and by day ve, all talk between
fellow juicers is laughably focused on what everyones rst meal will
be at the end of the week. If you are carrying even a little surplus
baggage, you will slim and shape up; if you can pinch more than
several inches, prepare to shift a surprising amount.
INSIDER TIP Do not attempt any rebounding after a colonic treatment.
Sneak off for a nap in one of the cosy, hanging spa cocoons instead.
BOOK IT Seven nights from 845, including all juices and some
activities. +44 1234 480280; www.juicyoasis.com
PHOTOGRAPH: MATTHEW WAKEM
NEW
your dosha (body type) so it wont cling to your hips. The 70 rooms
and ve suites in the Viceregal Palace are disappointing, with dated
interiors, drab corridors and a rather soullessvibe. Lose yourself
instead in the manicured grounds with their pottering peacocks, cheeky
langur monkeys and waterfalls. Ananda gets cracking results, which it
needs to with competitors creeping up on the horizon. The therapists
and yoga instructors may not be the most intuitive or groundbreaking,
but youll skip home sleeker and slimmer, with your spirits soaring.
INSIDER TIP Escape for the day to nearby Rishikesh, the birthplace
of yoga. Its weird but fascinating, too. Visit ashrams and sprawling
markets, and stay until sunset for Ganga Aarti, a daily religious ritual
of worship where young monks chant hypnotically beside the Ganges.
BOOK IT Elegant Resorts (+44 1244 897515; www.elegantresorts.
co.uk) offers a seven-night trip from 3,245, including six nights
at Ananda, full board, one night at The Leela Palace with breakfast,
and ights and transfers.
T RAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE
ALILA VILLAS
ULUWATU
BASK IN
BALI
For the ultimate in Balinese hideaways, lose yourself in

the luxury of Alila Villas Soori and Alila Villas Uluwatu
Contemporary, cool and chic, this divine all-villa resort is

exquisitely poised on the south coasts dramatic limestone
cliffs, affording spectacular views of the Indian Ocean.
No less awe-inspiring is the striking and contemporary
design of the hotel, which features walkways and bridges
linking a series of pools, pavilions and 86 villas on stilts,
all of which have private saltwater pools, sun terraces and
ocean-view cabanas. Inside, doors and even walls can be
removed to capture the refreshing breeze, while stylishly
ethical interiors include wood, stone and rattan. Outside,
indulge in sensational Indonesian cooking at the Warung
restaurant, or feast on fusion dishes at Cire.
The resort is also home to a Spa Alila offering a heavenly
array of holistic and customised treatments including
massage and meditation. Local therapists combine Asian
and Western therapies to create a personalised experience,
drawing on traditional practices and using the curative
benets of fresh, natural ingredients.
his magical island is vibrant yet serene, a perfect

blend of rich culture and superb surroundings.
Let Healing Holidays take you here and you'll
discover beaches and warm blue water, volcanic
peaks and verdant jungle, Balis fascinating spiritual
culture and the dazzling comforts of a ve-star
resort and spa.
ALILA VILLAS SOORI

Slotted betw
between
een sin
sinuous
uous rice ter
terraces
races and a gglitter
glittering
littering
ing
black-sand
black-sand beac
beach
h on Bali
Baliss southw
southwest
est coast, this
boutique hotel is the ideal place in w
whic
which
hich
h to soothe and
stimula
stim
stimulate
ulate
ula
te yyour
our senses
senses.. R
Reecting
eecting its sur
surroundings
surroundings,
oundings
oundings, the
resort
esort combines locally sour
sourced
ced ma
material
terial with na
nativ
native
tive
tiv
landscaping. R
landscaping.
Rooms
ooms fea
featuring
turing island stone and
driftw
driftwood
ood ar
aree spaced ar
around
ound lush ggar
gardens
dens and wa
water
ter
courts
courts.. Eac
Each
h of the contemporar
contemporaryy 38 villas and 10
residences
esidences ar
aree generously
generously equipped with top-of-theline electr
electronics
onics and stocked with Alila
Alilass signa
signature
signatur
turee bath
bath
pr
products.
oducts.
oducts. Outside,
Outside, yyou
youll
ou
oullll nd a priv
private
ate
te pool, pa
pavilion
vilion
products
and outdoor dining ar
area
ea perfect ffor
or intima
te meals
intimate
pre
pared b
byy the kitc
kitchen
estaurant, famed ffor
or
prepared
pr pared
prepar
hen aatt Cotta rrestaurant,
its haute Indonesian cuisine
cuisine,, or at
at Ombak, w
which
h
whic
hich
offer
of
ferss superb W
estern
dishes.. Spend the mor
morning
offers
Wester
Western
ester
n dishes
ning
eexploring
nearbyy temples and
xploring Balinese cultur
culturee at
at nearb
befor
villages bef
beforee familiarising yyour
yourself
self with the
trea
tempting tr
treatment
eatment
tment menu
menu aatt the rresort
resorts
esorts
esorts Sp
Spaa Alila,
which
hich
contemporaryy spin
whic
hich specialises in putting a contemporar
on ancient Asian healing techniques
tec
techniques.
hniques.
hniques
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay at Alila Villas

Soori from 2,099.00 per person sharing. This includes ights,
transfers, accommodation in a mountain pool villa, breakfast daily
and, exclusive to Traveller readers, a USD 500 Spa Alila credit per
reservation per couple, when staying for ve nights or more.
The offer is valid for travel between May 1, 2014 and
October 31, 2014.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay at Alila Villas

Uluwatu from 2,379.00 per person sharing. This includes ights,
transfers, accommodation in a one-bedroom pool villa, breakfast daily
and, exclusive to Traveller readers, a USD 500 Spa Alila credit per
reservation per couple, when staying for ve nights or more.
The offer is valid for travel between May 1, 2014 and
October 31, 2014.
To book, contact Healing Holidays on 020 7843
3592 or visit healingholidays.co.uk/condenast
WEIGHT LOSS
PA R K H OT E L I G L S
INNSBRUCK, AUSTRIA
IN BRIEF The favoured spot for the Mayr method

THE LOWDOWN Its always interesting to discover how many British
guests are here because of a medical issue that has apparently baffled
doctors at home. Even something as common as bloating, for instance.
Does a GP ever explain this complaint can be helped, if not banished,
by a few days of rest, minimal food and a declogging of the intestines,
followed by adherence to a mostly alkaline diet? Or that with this and
any health problem, its always wise to tackle the cause rather than
the symptoms and not think in terms of a pill for every problem? Such
precepts are mainstays at the Parkhotel, agreed by many to be the
best and most affordable of all the Austrian medi-spas run according
to the practices developed by the great 19th-century doctor FX Mayr
(see our feature on page 48). The philosophy is rooted in the belief
that good health starts with a properly functioning digestive system.
Once youve been on the receiving end of this rational thinking, the
old-fashioned habit of visiting a spa every year, which many Austrian
and German guests seem never to have lost, appears sensible. Rather
than the traditional Mayr fasting programme (not good for muscle
tone), here they have developed eight different diets depending on
your goals. Youll start each day with the dreaded Epsom salts, which
taste disgusting, sandblast your insides and send you running to the
loo. Other mealtimes are inevitably spent chewing (at least 40 times)
on stale bread or crackers with sheeps yogurt, but by day three most
guests add delicious, albeit bite-sized, portions of protein because the
Parkhotel is also keen on exercise, which requires some sustenance.
Whether you opt for personal training with Michael, sign up for
AquaGym sessions in the indoor pool or join a Nordic-walking outing,
youre more likely to be up and about than lying on your bed with a
hay pack on your liver, as can happen at the other Mayr medi-spas.
The doctors work with the University Hospital in Innsbruck, so you can
come for the intensive Modern Mayr Medicine check-up combining
mainstream laboratory diagnostics with the Mayr philosophy. An
additional 2,875 on top of the accommodation charge buys a package
of blood tests and ultrasound scans and is aimed at those who really
want to know the truth about their health. After seven days, most
guests leave 3-4kg lighter, with more energy than a Duracell Bunny.
INSIDER TIP Its not only obvious digestive problems that the medical
team here can help with. Theyre worth consulting about any niggling
or serious - health problem. The dynamic head of the medical team,
Dr Peter Gartner, is particularly recommended.
co.uk/condenast) offers seven nights from 1,690, full board,
including ights, transfers, medical checks, daily hydrotherapy
treatments and exercise training.
SOFITEL QUIBERON
DIETETIQUE
BRITTANY, FRANCE
IN BRIEF Water-based therapies with stunning sea views

THE LOWDOWN If you want to lose half a stone in a week without
starving, come to the best thalassotherapy centre in France, a country
where seawater cures are something of a national obsession. Butter,
cream and wine are all banned (slightly different from your normal
French holiday, then), but you can have a slice of toast with ham and
eggs for breakfast. And coffee. And add meringue or a naughty scoop
of ice cream to your poached fruit for pudding. Of course, all meals
are carefully cross-checked and calorie-counted to make sure they
provide the correct ratio of protein and vegetables, and youll nd lots
of soups and salads, but there are also freshly caught oysters and
beautifully presented scallops and lobster on the three-course menus.
The French seem to know how to keep things balanced without
obliterating every treat known to mankind. Its an approach thats far
easier to keep up at home, too. Choose between the Slimming Design
Week (lots of sculpting and toning treatments), the Slimming Tonic
Week (more sports-intensive) or the Slimming Starter Week, consisting
mostly of a series of lower-impact, water-based treatments. There
are group sessions in the pool where you exercise against strong jets of
water, and showers where legs, thighs and back are blasted to break
down the fat, tone up muscles and help weight loss incredibly effective
considering youre essentially doing nothing. In between, you might
be covered in a seaweed gel, wrapped in a heated blanket and left to
sweat for 20 minutes (smelling like a mudslide) or hooked up to electric
pads so ticklish currents can pass through and stimulate abs (so much
easier than crunches). Cheating never felt so good. Mornings are a
urry of treatments and massages, while the afternoon is a time for
brisk walks to the rocky headland, a dip in the sea or just a chance to
curl up in an armchair and have a snooze by the re. Thanks to a radical
redesign by renowned French architects Marc Hertrich and Nicolas
Adnet three years ago, the 76 bedrooms now have a soothing palette,
clean lines, wooden oors and sliding doors that lead onto sea-facing
balconies. Before you leave with your newly attened stomach and
radiant skin, youre given a lesson in how the body deals with sugar,
and a helpful list of instructions on what to eat going forward. An easy
hop from Nantes, a wild and beautiful shoreline and even some nearby
boutiques though do try to avoid the cake shops in town this has
to be the perfect healthy mini-break.
INSIDER TIP Dressing gowns are ne in the spa, but everyone wears
cashmere at lunch and looks smart for dinner. And dont confuse this
hotel with the interconnecting Sotel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa,
which shares the wellness centre but has no food rules.
BOOK IT The Slimmer Starter Week package costs from 2,480
for six nights, full board, including medical consultation, workshops
and treatments. +33 297 504 888; www.sotel.com
ANTI-AGEING
Stop the clock, wind back the years, emerge rejuvenated
MOST
AVANT-GARDE
CLINIC
LO N H E A
NEW
PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIC LAIGNEL
VILL ARS-SUR-OLLON, SWITZERL AND

IN BRIEF Hi-tech overhaul for those who take it seriously
THE LOWDOWN Somewhere new and fully charged; somewhere so
scientic you wear a heart monitor for the duration of your stay;
somewhere with such commitment to your health that it offers fortnightly
follow-up sessions online for four months: this is unprecedented. With a
maximum of just nine guests at a time, Lonhea is all about ultra-focused,
one-on-one care, which is why guests include those with Parkinsons
disease, those on the brink of a breakdown, those dealing with sleep
issues, addiction, weight-related problems and relentless stress. You dont
come here for a facial or for plastic surgery: this is about maintaining
your health for the long-haul. The simple, streamlined Alpine clinic aims
to counterbalance the effects of a frown-line-inducing lifestyle with up
to eight hours of exercise a day, gut-friendly food cooked by Portuguese
chef Pedro Alexandre, and a crack team of stellar therapists. Head
honcho Dr Michel Golay, a former professional footballer and athletic
chiropractor, has based his programme around the two-brain model,
which has been advocated by the Chinese for centuries. The theory is
that the body has two brains: the digestive and, inside your head, the
encephalic or reptilian. The digestive brain needs nutrients to produce
energy and protect the second brain, which is the coordinator of all
essential functions. So, we need to eat well, exercise and take probiotics
to help keep the gut healthy (guests with conditions such as IBS and
arthritis see vast improvements). On arrival, youll have extensive blood
tests followed by a thorough four hours of cardio and NeuroCom
sessions, which check your balance and mobility. The evaluation is like a
workout: 45 minutes on a treadmill controlled by your therapist, French
climber Xavier Gerfaud-Valentin; balance challenges on a wooden board
with your eyes closed; toe-touches with one leg in the air; core- and
lumber- strength assessments and, weirdest of all, a halo of wires
(developed by NASA) that is placed on your head to determine the
adaptive and visual capacity of your motor system. And the aforementioned
heart monitor must be worn throughout your stay, even while you sleep,
in order for your body and brain function to be studied. The results
determine your tailored programme, which is likely to include a cardio
blast at 7am (Xavier has a steely determination, so excuses are not
tolerated), a mid-morning personal-training session (squats, weights,
resistance training and Power Plate), a quick lunch and a two-hour
afternoon hike, followed by yoga. Its exhausting. But all this hardship is
cushioned by fantastic food, which isnt too strictly monitored. Breakfast
consists of ham, eggs and strong coffee (yes, it is allowed), with lunches
such as roast beetroot with sheeps cheese, followed by poached pear
and melted chocolate, then a dinner that is light on carbs perhaps
chicken and fennel salad. Downtime is spent in the spa, which has an
infrared sauna, a steam room, a Turkish bath and a bubbling hot tub
where you can soak tired limbs. Before you leave, theres a nal
consultation and treatment with Dr Golay, who cracks and crunches
your bones, gives you a vigorous abdominal massage and uses a suction
pump on your muscles to release toxins. Lonhea is not necessarily for
those who need to rest, but its terric if you like a daily challenge.
And theres no better motivation than hearing the truth about your
physical and mental health and wellbeing from a scientic standpoint.
INSIDER TIP Physiotherapist and yoga teacher Rose Caseley offers cranial
osteopathy, which involves poking your skull with a plastic prong thats
a bit like a crochet needle. This is not exactly relaxing, but afterwards
the world seems sharper and your vision actually clearer.
co.uk/condenast) offers a six-night package from 4,590 full board,
including ights, train transfers, full health analysis, all treatments
and therapies according to a tailormade programme, and fortnightly
follow-ups for four months.
CLINIQUE L A PRAIRIE
MONTREUX, SWITZERL AND
IN BRIEF Famed forerunner of Swiss health retreats

THE LOWDOWN Everyone from Winston Churchill and Marlene
Dietrich to David Bowie and Mick Jagger is rumoured to have disappeared
into this lakeside fortress at some point to undergo Revitalisation. This
fabled rejuvenation therapy which originally involved injections of
live cells extracted from lamb foetuses claims to reduce cell division,
boost the immune system, slow down the ageing process and aid repair
and recovery from chemotherapy and chronic viral infections. CLP
Extract is now taken from the livers, instead of the foetuses, of black
lambs and is given orally rather than via a needle the length of Bond
Street, though its price remains forbidding: around 17,000 for a
weeks treatment. This is what a state-of-the-art medi-spa should look
like. Its expensive and immaculate, and the thrill of checking into the
clinic is almost unequalled. Your driver sweeps up to the entrance, a
few hundred yards from the shore of Lake Geneva, and youre ushered
by a crisply suited staffer into the pristine lobby. Within minutes, youre
shown into a rose-pink room with a beautiful bathroom and a bed that
rises on an angle so that you can admire views of the lake without any
propping up on pillows. Down in the newly overhauled spa, the look is
white-on-dazzling-white and almost space-age. The waiting room is
lined with glass shelves packed with Swiss Perfection products; this
range, based on iris extracts (the ower, not the eyeball), has replaced
the famous (but long sold-off) La Prairie skincare line. The light-lled
treatment rooms contain the kind of equipment which less wildly
protable places could only dream about. The conscientious, welltrained therapists do not disappoint, either. Expect a delicate touch
for your facial and one as tough as you like for body treatments. Theres
also thalassotherapy and hydrotherapy, and in the medical centre
specialists operate (literally, where relevant) in more than 30 areas,
from cardiology to neurology via cosmetic surgery. Theres an ultraslick dental clinic and, in the Menopause Centre, cutting-edge work
is carried out by a team led by Dr Thierry Pache. More alternative
practices include acupuncture and homeopathy, although you dont
really come here for those. Gym staff couldnt be more helpful, possibly
because all that top-notch equipment appears to go largely unused.
And those bedrooms really are wonderfully comfortable, providing
ample opportunity to lie back and ponder Revitalisations most
impressive claim: mice given CLP Extract live 40 per cent longer.
INSIDER TIP Its incredibly quiet at night. Take every book you want
to catch up on, go alone, and feast on room service. The trolley will
be brought right to your bed, which will of course be angled just so.
BOOK IT The lead-in package is the Beauty Programme, which starts
from 10,450 for six nights full board, including consultations and all
treatments. +41 21 989 3311; www.laprairie.ch
L A R E S E RV E
GENEVA, SWITZERL AND

IN BRIEF Complete health MOT within easy reach
THE LOWDOWN Most of us are aware that a lack of serotonin can lead
to depression, but did you know that digestive problems can block its
production and therefore probiotics, not Prozac, could be the solution?
Also, were you conscious of the fact that a high level of cortisol a
hormone produced by stress stops fat being burnt, which makes the
reduction of stress a vital factor in weight loss? Youll leave here buzzing
with riveting information such as this. Crucially, though, you will also
know the personal relevance of this knowledge, because youll be armed
with the results of comprehensive genetic testing, a medical check-up,
and blood tests that show everything from your serotonin and cortisol
levels and your risk of suffering from a range of health problems, to the
precise changes needed for tip-top wellbeing. The four Nescens Better
Ageing Programmes (four-day, seven-day, Intensive
and Programme Plus) all include a private
consultation with the ever-approachable Professor
Jacques Proust, one of the worlds leading
specialists in the study of healthy ageing and
genomics, who also heads the nearby Clinique de
Genolier. In addition to this, there are ve hours
of treatment and exercise each day, including
a daily massage, personal training sessions and
yoga with the radiant Sabel (Shoulders back,
chin up. Remember, your lungs are just under
your collarbones, so give them space). Stunningly
good, healthy food such as petit-pois soup
with tiny balls of goats cheese is served in
the shimmering white and sugared-almond
surroundings of the Caf Lauren restaurant, which
is also a lunchtime rendezvous spot for local spa
members and staff from the nearby UN HQ. But
its the expert consultations that make this place
so potent. Osteopath Sebastien Ducasse examines your bone structure

and movement and prescribes a corrective exercise programme.
Nutritionist Olivier Bourquin gives instant read-outs of antioxidant and
inammation levels the latter is particularly important as a preindicator
for disease and explains the benets of spirulina (rich in protein,
vitamins and minerals) and a good daily probiotic (he recommends
Lactibiane). And although it costs extra, you can even employ the
services of a leg specialist: the glamorous Dr Valrie Leduc will laser
away spider veins and, using the fabulous CoolSculpting machine,
freeze the fat cells in that bulge just above the knees, or anywhere
else on your body. The only intelligent response to relentless healthhype, whether it concerns a new wonder-food or a miraculous diet/
supplement/form of exercise, has to be a skeptically raised eyebrow.
But no one can fail to be excited by genomics. Or
that CoolSculpting machine. And you dont even
have to sign up for the full week for any of these
consultations: the whole team can be accessed
for one-off appointments. That said, nothing
quite beats a seven-day attack.
INSIDER TIP Dont be put off by the outside of this
1970s-built hotel: the interior, with its leopardprint carpeting, was designed by Jacques Garcia
of Htel Costes fame, and the service is excellent.
Lake Geneva is a ve-minute walk away and its a
10-minute drive from the airport. Also, from March
to October, a water-shuttle will speed you across
the lake to the city centre.
BOOK IT Healing Holidays (+44 20 7843 3592;
www.healingholidays.co.uk/condenast) offers the
seven-night Better Ageing Programme from 4,690
full board, including ights, transfers, consultations,
personal training and treatments.
PA L AC E M E R A N O
SOUTH T YROL, ITALY
IN BRIEF Smart but brutal king of the Italian detox

THE LOWDOWN Just when you thought its anti-ageing therapies
couldnt get any better, the Espace Henri Chenot spa at the Palace
Merano in the Italian Dolomites has raised the bar with a spankingnew oor named Revital. A 1,000-square-metre space in minimalist
white marble, it provides an Olympic standard in health diagnostics,
with a scientic laboratory that tests your DNA to predict future
genetic weaknesses and potential for disease. Bone-density scanners
assess the age of your spine and your chances of getting osteoporosis,
as well as scaring the hell out of you by highlighting the fat around
your vital organs. Sophisticated hormone analysis will explain
why youre always shattered. Come here with your partner before you
consult the divorce lawyers as this is where you will face the truth
about your erratic emotional and physical states. Treatment also
includes a detox diet offering mouse-sized mouthfuls of exquisite
food, and the miraculous Chenot Method massage. As well as
rediscovering your cheek- and hip-bones (average weight loss is 3kg
per week), you will nd something far more alluring: an unfamiliar
inner balance, plus practical knowledge on how to sustain this
newfound, bouncy optimum health. This is tough love delivered in
Chanel kid-gloves. The divine doctors who, like Dorian Gray, look
younger and more handsome every year, will shock you senseless
with your statistics, then coax you back to youthful vigour. Vitamin
drips provide bespoke cocktails of antioxidants, ozone-therapy pumps
the blood with stress-busting, circulation-boosting oxygen, and
infrared lights stimulate collagen and plump out ne facial lines.

Unsurprisingly, given that a weeks stay leaves you with dewy,
exquisite skin, this attracts a rather glamorous crowd. Ignore the
diamonds and Dior at dinner, though, as the towelling robes worn
by all during the day are a great leveller.
INSIDER TIP Ask barman John to make you a Virgin Mojito with
extra agave when you feel dementedly hungry, and be sure to see
Marco, the sensational osteopath.
holidays.co.uk/condenast) offers a seven-night Wellbeing
Programme from 3,899 full board, including ights, transfers,
a wellness consultation and treatments.
JAMAICA
SAINT LUCIA
ANTIGUA
BAHAMAS
GRENADA
BARBADOS
RELAX
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS
THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET
A sanctuary for mind, body and soul, the Red Lane Spas exclusively at Sandals resorts
offer the ultimate in relaxation. Treatments ^ combine European traditions with a distinctive
Caribbean flair and utilise ingredients indigenous to the region. Unwind in our garden
sanctuaries and enjoy complimentary use of hot and cold plunge pools, steam baths and saunas.
TO B O O K T H E W O R L D S L E A D I N G A L L- I N C LU S I V E R E S O R T S
Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk
See your local travel agent
^Treatments at cost
HOLISTIC HEALERS
Charge your chakras, cleanse your aura and clear out your head space
NEW
DWA R I K A S R E S O R T
DHULIKHEL, NEPAL
IN BRIEF Nepals inaugural destination health retreat

THE LOWDOWN In 1952, Dwarika Das Shrestha opened Nepals rst
hotel, the Paras, in Kathmandu. With time, love and the great vision of their
founder, these few modest rooms for pilgrims evolved into Dwarikas
Kathmandu, a project committed to preserving Newa heritage and
incorporating elements of local arts and crafts. Now his daughter, Sangita
Shrestha, has opened her own spa outpost in Dhulikhel. Only an hour from
the capital, its set on the bluff of a hill between the Panchkhal Valley and
the village of Patlekhet, with the Himalayas stretched out in all their mighty
glory. The 360-degree panoramas are breath-stealing, soul-soaring.
Dwarikas Resort is elegant and considered, warm and welcoming. The spa
rooms, chakra sound chambers, yoga and meditation spaces and vast
bedroom suites are scattered across the sides of two hills.Each suite has
indoor and outdoor sleeping and living spaces with expansive views over the
snow-capped Langtang mountain range.This is rustic chic: no imported
marble or generic ve-star ttings here. All materials are locally sourced,
from the bricks and mortar through to the furniture, bath products and bed
linen (the only exception being the impossibly comfortable mattresses,
imported from the USA). Shrestha designed every element in consultation
with Buddhist and Hindu masters, from the orientation and placement of
the rooms to the installation of a meditation maze, Himalayan salt chamber
and the Gol Lok Dham Lounge, which is named after the place that,
according to Hindu myth, sits above heaven and where time stands
still. The focus is on complete wellbeing, drawing on knowledge from
the Himalayan region. The sheer range of consultations, treatments,
activities (yoga, meditation, pottery, block printing), excursions and
lessons can, at times, feel overwhelming, but there are specic programmes
to make things easier. And for more indepth guidance, seek out one of
the gurus, masters or astrologists. Stroll with in-house sage Guruji and
realign your spirit en route to the organic farm, then wander the rice
paddies, help with the harvest, pick vegetables for supper, drink tea and
watch farm life unfold. Shresthas dream was to build a place where shed
happily live out her retirement; Dwarikas is certainly one of the most
restorative and spiritual retreats youll nd.
INSIDER TIP Imagine falling into one of Anish Kapoors vast concave
sculptures and being engulfed in vibration and sound thats the delicious
loss of self youll experience if you book in for singing-bowl therapy.
BOOK IT A ve-night Revitalisation package costs about 1,530,
full board, including consultations, yoga, meditation sessions and
spa treatments. +977 1 447 9488; www.dwarikas-dhulikhel.com.
Turkish Airlines(www.turkishairlines.com) ies daily from Heathrow
to Kathmandu via Istanbul.
HOLISTIC HEALERS
PHOTOGRAPH: JENNY ZARINS
MOST
SOULFUL
SPA
SONG SAA
G R A N D PA R K H OT E L
KOH RONG ARCHIPEL AGO, CAMBODIA
BAD HOFGASTEIN, AUSTRIA
IN BRIEF Gentle treatments with a strong ethical spirit

THE LOWDOWN Until now, Cambodias star spa players have
been situated in or around Siem Reap; theres Amansara a low-key
sanctuary where you should try the Temple Walk, a zingy peppermint
scrub for tired feet and the Prince DAngkor, a slice of boutique
peace. But this is something else, something dazzling. Song Saa (Khmer
for the sweethearts) consists of two gem-like islands in the otherwise
untouched Koh Rong Archipelago in the Gulf of Thailand.Getting here
is an adventure, but when you arrive by speedboat on the last leg of
your mega-journey and the rst hut looms into view, it becomes clear
that the trek is worthwhile.There is nothing else around.The island
of Koh Ouen is home to 27 eco-villas of a standard as yet unseen in
this part of the world (the strong sustainable ethos has inspired the
stylish reworking of old shing-boat timber and driftwood into furniture).
And wild and hilly Koh Bong, reached by a winding bridge, has
meditation platforms and yoga salas. It is hard to believe the sparkling
spot was sorely neglected and littered when Australian owners Melita
and Rory Hunter who had been doing up houses on the mainland
began their plans for Song Saa eight years ago. Its been a long ride,
fraught with unforeseen obstacles (including Melitas diagnosis with
cancer and the Lehman Brothers crash, which dramatically affected
funding) so that the project was nearly abandoned. But the couples
dream was eventually realised and their relentless creativity continues
with their commitment to improving the local environment and the lives
of nearby villagers. Behind-the-scenes initiatives such as The Boat of
Hope project, which aims to get healthcare and education to 30 remote
islands (which appear to be entirely neglected by the government),
lend integrity and authenticy to the spa ethos. Jungle villas enjoy
gobsmacking views, while in the water villas you can watch the sh
through the oor and dive straight into a clear sea from the private
deck. The castors run smoothly and silently but are not over-polished,
allowing the islands natural charm to shine through and bringing you
closer to the sea, the sun and the stars without too much fanfare.Guests
are rarely disturbed and instead receive tiny Alice In Wonderland-style
notes:Pour this, Drink this and Try this are the instructions for the
indulgent Stillness Bath Ritual, which involves bathing in milk, oil and
petals, sipping ginger tea and nibbling on a mini macaroon.Small scrolls
are tucked into your door, inviting you to feasts across the island: Khmer
curries by the pool with your toes dipped in cool water, or sea-bass
ceviche on a swing bed in the Vista Restaurant.Theres plenty of natural
and organic produce from the local rainforests and farms, but also
moreish wood-red pizzas at the Driftwood Bar for when you feel the
need.The spa reception area is swathed in muslin, orchids and lotus
owers, with sea-green painted boards salvaged from a derelict railway,
and herby honey tea that is divine; treatment areas are dotted around
the island. Therapies are managed by Narayana Prasad, for whom every
day is wonderful. Slip off for massages devised by Ila, the organic British
brand whose philosophy, based around the Buddhist tenets of metta
and karuna (loving kindness and compassion), reects the principles
of Song Saa. Try the Ananda Facial, where gentle pressure is applied to
the marma points of the face and pure damask-rose products are used,
or a Himalayan salt scrub and hot-stone chakra massage performed to
the sound of the beating waves at night. There is a subtlety to the
therapists touch here that works in a profound way, and hands and feet
are enclosed in piping hot towels at the end of each treatment to ground
you. This is a spa with soul, which sets it apart from the pack.
INSIDER TIP Try the underwater meditation, which involves oating in
shallow waters looking up at the stars you dont have to be a scuba diver.
holidays.co.uk/condenast)offers seven nights from 3,450 full board,
including ights and transfers.
IN BRIEF Weird but wonderfully reparative radon caves

THE LOWDOWN Just standing in the utter greenness of the Bad
Hofgastein valley, surrounded by craggy peaks, is enough to make
you feel better. But this valley or rather, the mountains that fringe it
guards a secret: Gasteiner Heilstollen, the worlds only healing caves
with naturally occuring radon gas. This location has been used by
Austrians and Germans for centuries to cure everything from hay fever
to broken bones and arthritis, and health insurance companies send
patients here for a natural remedy thats cheaper and more effective
than conventional medicine. Spa-treatment programmes at the Grand
Park Hotel are based around daily trips to these strange, sauna-like
caverns where everyone strips off (though this is not compulsory, and
there are separate caves for men and women) and no one talks. There
are doctors on-site, but claustrophobics beware: the journey deep
into the mountain, via a little plastic-seated train, feels rather ominous
and there is a faint whiff of sweaty bodies. Its not the most enjoyable
experience, but it brings results, including markedly reduced pain
and inammation, a boosted immune system and glowing skin. Thermal
waters with a lower concentration of radon stream into the hotels
swimming pool, one drinking tap (no more than three glasses a day
of the metallic-tasting water is recommended) and some of its baths.
Medical staff including senior consultant Dr Liane Weber, a specialist
in musculoskeletal disorders and traditional Chinese medicine, devise
treatment plans to boost the bodys healing ability using diet,
physiotherapy, hydrotherapy, lymphatic drainage massage, tui na and
acupuncture. Physio is tough, pounding out every ache and pain, but
this is no bootcamp: patients are on holiday, so alcohol and cake are not
off-limits, though you are gently encouraged to apply moderation. While
neither sleek nor modern despite a recent refurbishment, the look is
rather fusty the hotel does hospitality to a tee. Head chef Franz Huick
will prepare food according to your personal nutrition plan, but his
meals wont leave you wanting, theres axseed and antioxidant-rich
berries for breakfast, miso soup for lunch, wolf sh with asparagus
followed by buckwheat waffles and mango sorbet for supper. In addition
to all the pummelling, stretching and needling, rest is essential, so boost
your schedule with detoxifying mud wraps and collagen facials using
QMS Medicosmetics products, or a spot of Nordic walking along the
appropriately named Gasteiner Ache, the river that ows down the spine
of the valley. If you have a serious complaint, expect to return with
renewed vitality and needing less medication.
INSIDER TIP Help your body by fuelling it with such anti-inammatory
wizards as green tea, pumpkin seeds and seaweed.
BOOK IT Health and Fitness Travel (+44 20 3397 8891; www.
healthandtnesstravel.com) offers a seven-night Healing Caves
programme from 1,670 full board, including ights and transfers.
HOLISTIC HEALERS
FIVELEMENTS
BALI, INDONESIA
IN BRIEF Ancient Balinese traditions, incredible raw food

THE LOWDOWN In Bali, it is believed that healthy, happy beings are
in harmony with divinity, humanity and nature. Award-winning local
architect Ketut Arthana has constructed this spiritual retreat around
these principles, and the results are simply gobsmacking. The whole
place is built entirely out of bamboo to resemble a traditional Balinese
village. There isnt a jarring inch of concrete anywhere, so energy-wise
it zings. The idea is that guests will be soothed through the painstaking
attention to sacred geometry. Everything is circular and even the rooms,
which are like large, sophisticated bamboo yurts, are built on stilts so
that air can circulate. Stressed urbanites stumble in and fall apart; you
feel so protected that it is impossible not to unravel. Accommodation
is rustic-luxe with eco bedrooms, meaning low lighting and an open-air
bathroom. Its a tad basic, but youll adapt. Treatment rooms hug the
riverbank, with oating muslin curtains and little decks where tea is
sipped to the strangely soothing soundtrack of the pounding Ayung river
that anks the resort. Seek the pragmatic, insightful and intuitive Janur
to organise your programme; the treatment menu is so esoteric and
geared to different levels of healing energy that youll need to be
navigated through it. And yet, it almost doesnt matter what you choose,
as all the therapists are Balinese healers who draw on profound psychic
energies for each session. The only drawback is their stilted English, so
be prepared for little talk and plenty of trust. Youll nd every conceivable
energy-healing, negativity-clearing, auric-cleansing emotional rebalancing
available. Try grounding yin yoga or tantra healing yoga: it will leave you
utterly spaced-out but reconnected. You can transform obsessive
mental patterns with the Fire Blessing Ritual where, with a local priest,
you will throw negative thoughts (along with lentils) into the re, chant
PUNE, INDIA
NEW
IN BRIEF Healthy hedonism as a Mumbai side trip

THE LOWDOWN Another stellar arrival on the Indian spa scene,
perfect for a three-day break after a city trip or for a week-long overhaul.
The journey here is therapy in itself; as soon as you leave the main road
at the Lonavala hill station, the drive becomes a pure joy as it climbs into
the tantalising, chiselled peaks of the Western Ghats and winds deeper
into the beautiful lake district of Maharashtra, dotted with sleepy villages
and ancient hilltop forts. Its hard to believe there are 99 villas hidden
between the trees and lush undergrowth of this 320-acre retreat, set amid
pristine wilderness. The Spa Villas are vast and each comes with its own
heated pool: just the place to dust yourself down, take a deep breath of
fresh air (or positive energy as your meditation tutor will call it) and start
to relax. Like all the architecture here, the villas are ultra-contemporary
and chic with clean lines, natural fabrics, wood and stone, and plenty of
light and space. It would be easy to spend your days just pottering around,
but you wouldnt want to miss the morning yoga sessions led by the
cosmically named Shine to a soundtrack of birdsong and whooping
monkeys. Breakfast can be delivered to your villa, served as a picnic after
a sunrise trek, or taken in the indoor/outdoor Terrazzo restaurant where
youll nd everything from wheatgrass shots to quinoa porridge and South
Indian masala dosas. Then make for the spa. Dip in a toe by opting for a
classic scrub, wrap or yoga, or go for total immersion via chakra cleansing
and pranic healing. Under the guidance of spa manager Dr Dinesh Goswami
you can choose from 150 treatments, including Ayurvedic facials, Sundari
deep-tissue massage and the utterly sublime Yoga Nidra psychic sleep
therapy. Afterwards, kick back on a huge daybed in the Japanese-style
tearoom, cooled by the mountain breeze, sipping organic green tea with
fresh ginger and honey. Those reluctant to leave their bubble can order a
body-type-specic meal in the spas Green Table restaurant, where there

is also a light menu including dashi broth with teriyaki tofu (most of the
ingredients are grown in the organic garden). Wind down with sunset
meditation in the womb-like cave; there are no distractions here, only the
trickle of water and the melodious tones of teacher Vijay.
INSIDER TIP When you head out in the evening, be aware that some
guests arent on a regime. If you end up at the super-cool Shillim bar,
resist temptation and keep it virgin with a red pepper and pineapple juice.
BOOK IT Greaves Travel (+44 20 7487 9111; www.greavesindia.co.uk)
offers a tailormade trip from 2,075 with the three-night Experience
Shillim package, which includes breakfast, a consultation, a selection of
therapies, yoga and meditation, and three nights at Taj Lands End,
Mumbai, plus ights and transfers.
H I LTO N S H I L L I M E S TAT E
Sanskrit mantras and evoke the divine blessings of health and abundance.
Even if you dont manage that, youll have a giggle as its fun being
splashed with healing water and banishing spirits by ringing bells. Cynics
may scoff that its all a bit New Agey, but they will be won over by what
is served up in the vaulted dining room. The vegan food is a revelation: 80
per cent of it is raw, and the menu reads like a culinary thesaurus. Order the
lasagne made with cashew cheese, and coconut crepes with caramelised
onion and shiitake mushrooms. A few days here prove the concept of food
as medicine to be true: you leave feeling internally healed and nourished.
INSIDER TIP Book a bodywork session with Pak Made, who can almost
reset broken bones.
BOOK IT The Healthy Holiday Company (+44 20 8968 0501;
www.thehealthyholidaycompany.co.uk) offers seven nights from
2,299, including ights, transfers and breakfast.
K A L A R I KOV I L A KO M
KERAL A, INDIA
NEW
MUKUL
GUACALITO DE L A ISL A, NICARAGUA

IN BRIEF Jungle retreat where privacy is paramount
THE LOWDOWN When there is a story this dramatic lurking behind
a spa concept, its hard not to be seriously intrigued. Back in the late
1980s, a Boeing 727 crashed in the mountains of Honduras, killing
almost all of its 141 passengers; among the nine who miraculously
survived, albeit with terrible burns, were Vivian and Carlos Pellas.
Fast-forward to 2013 and the opening of Mukul (it means secret),
Nicaraguas rst seriously smart boutique resort. It was the burns that
enveloped Mrs Pellas body in particular that inspired the couple to
create the spa. There are six domed, palapa-type buildings on the
rugged, tropical hillside of Nicaraguas Emerald Coast, each of them
a private treatment pavilion with its own dedicated theme to help
you on the path to enlightenment. From the Rain Forest to the Secret
Garden so secret you might not get to see it each is inspired by
nature, from design details such as the dangling palm leaves tickling
the oor-to-ceiling windows, to the products themselves, which use
locally sourced and organic herbs and plants from turmeric and rice
powder scrubs to cool, zesty yogurt face masks. Whats special here
is that its a purely two-way experience between you and your therapist;
no inquisitive eyes from others, no tricky communal relaxation room.
It is unique in its intense privacy and therefore perfect for anyone with
even a slither of insecurity, whether that be signicant life-changing
scars or not-so-noteworthy patches of cellulite or an unwanted
muffin-top. And the therapist will personally escort you directly to
your spa experience, so theres no need to even leave your bohio
(thats how they say beach shack in Spanish, though these ultra-smart
treehouse-style villas certainly arent beach huts). With zero
unnecessary fuss, or fear of awkward meetings with overly naked
strangers, the entire experience is yours and yours alone. The sunny
local therapists will instinctively wheedle out those weak points and
push you to your limit; its all about realigning your inevitably crooked
body and soul. Astonishingly, guests are allocated a whopping three
hours minimum (if not the whole day) at the spa, so go mad and roll
around on the gargantuan pillows in the palapa, dunk yourself in
and out of the vast plunge pool as many times as possible and ll that
petal-strewn, marble outdoor bath to its absolute limit.
INSIDER TIP If you happen to be staying in Bohio 14, watch out for
a curious knocking at your door early in the morning. Its not the butler
with your dawn espresso, rather a pesky but charming blue jay seeking
your attention. This is all part of the Mukul magic.
BOOK IT Scott Dunn (+44 20 8682 5030; www.scottdunn.com)
offers ve nights (plus a one-night stopover in Miami) from 2,870 full
board, including ights and transfers.
IN BRIEF Strict, authentic, effective Ayurvedic escape

THE LOWDOWN Kerala is the birthplace of Ayurveda, thought to be
the oldest system of medicine known to humanity, and Kalari Kovilakom
is not only the regions but the countrys leading centre. This is not
a place for people seeking indulgence, rather for those in need of
profound healing. The doctors pray over the medicines or medicated
oils they administer, and blessings are dispensed with every treatment.
From the minute you arrive at the 19th-century palace, you forget
the honking horns and bustle outside and enter monastic-style living.
Leather is forbidden, as are sunbathing and leaving the premises. The
gates shut, shoes are swapped for ip-ops, clothes for white cotton
pyjamas and kurtas (the three pairs provided serve as a uniform for
the entire stay; some people bring no clothes), and guests head to the
spartan room where theyll spend a lot of time in isolation (and possibly
pain, as the body goes into crisis before it heals). Stress, slimming,
anti-ageing and the spectacularly cleansing Panchakarma rejuvenation
process are all covered. Whatever your focus, youll kick off with purging,
which means a few days of ghee (a claried, medicated butter) for
breakfast, rice gruel for lunch, and for dinner a small, zero-fat, zerosugar, vegetarian dish. Meals are eaten on benches overlooking the
garden, providing little opportunity for conversation. Silence isnt imposed,
but it is encouraged. While the food is far from indulgent, the Indian
spices and chutneys ensure it is delicious, and everyone is given a bespoke
menu. Ingredients are used therapeutically for example, ginger for
warming and if the request is for wheat-free, chapatis will be made with
rice or lentil our. Just as the food is tailored, so too are daily prescriptions
provided by the doctor (so theres no picking your own therapies).
Days are lled with yoga, a gentle morning stretch to move the ghee
around the body, deep relaxation to improve healing, breathing work and
sun salutations and, of course, prescribed spa therapies. These can be
anything from Elakizhi, a pouch lled with leaves and herbs from the
garden is dipped in medicated oil, then dabbed over your body, leaving
you remarkably supple, to the more extreme enemas or nose cleanses.
After dinner, there are Ayurveda lectures, yogic chanting, candle-gazing
meditation and Indian dance performances. The minimum stay here is
two weeks, as this is considered sufficient time for the healing process
to take effect, but the rewards are profound, both physical and emotional.
So while the strictness of the regime may sound off-putting, remember
this is a spa with integrity and depth, and a cult following: 70 per cent
of guests are repeat clients.
INSIDER TIP The care continues on your return, so dont be shy about
emailing your doctor with any questions. Dr Jouhar is so intuitive he
sometimes ignores what you say (in the politest way possible, of course)
because, as it turns out, he knows best.
BOOK IT Greaves Travel (+44 20 7487 9111; www.greavesindia.co.uk)
offers the 14-night Manasanthy Anti Stress Programme from 5,975
full board, including consultations, treatments, yoga, ights and transfers.
HOLISTIC HEALERS
AY U RV E DA R E S O R T S O N N H O F
THIERSEE VALLEY, AUSTRIA
F R E GAT E I S L A N D P R I VAT E
FREGATE ISL AND, SEYCHELLES
IN BRIEF Wild but properly polished beach haven

THE LOWDOWN Youll never forget your arrival here. Imagine
stepping back in time to the age of Charles Darwin, with ocks of
tropical birds, lime-green geckos and no fewer than 2,000 jumbo
Aldabra tortoises shuffling slowly among the lush grasses. Theres not
one, but seven palm-fringed beaches with spotless white sand, each
with clever Beach Occupied signs at the cliff-top path which can be
ipped to ensure total privacy. And herein lies the magic of Frgate:
its not only low-key and alive with all the rhythms of nature (resident
conservationists take you on nature walks and, during nesting season,
you can watch Hawksbill turtles paddle ashore to lay their eggs)
but also smart, slick and smoothly operated by the Oetker Collection
group with everything the savvy traveller could wish for. The air
conditioning is so efficient it might freeze your camera. The butler lays
the table with different owers each day and remembers where you
like your cushions placed. Guests are provided with a little buggy
which, come morning, is always ready to go: fully charged, packed
with rolled towels and water, and facing the right way, no matter how
haphazardly parked the previous night. Positioned high in the hills,
with its own beautiful water garden, the Rock Spa has a fresh is best
philosophy. Treatments focus on restoring balance and energy,
drawing on age-old know-how and the healing properties of locally
foraged plants, with lemon and cinnamon immune-building scrubs;
coconut and avocado body masks to hydrate the skin, and scalp
massages of hibiscus and holy basil. Massages run the full spectrum,
from aromatherapy, Swedish and Balinese to Thai and hot stone. You
can book yoga lessons, try a session to help strengthen your back, or
plump for one of the new Ayurvedic programmes (three, seven or 15
days) with the lovely Dr Haridas from Jodhpur. The range of Ayurvedic
treatments is impressive, majoring on the powerful effects of herbal
oils, and powders known for their rejuvenating properties. Come with
a bad knee and therapists will soothe it with pads of heated herbs
applied with just the right pressure. The chef can rustle up Ayurvedic
curries to suit your regime, but the normal food is so spectacular you
might not want to miss out. The colonial Plantation House restaurant
serves wonderful Crole food, with organic salads such as shrimp with
shredded palm hearts at one end of the spectrum, and Bunters
Delight the melting chocolate pudding at the other. After dinner,
sip rum and Coke at the Pirates Bar beach hut while gazing at the
stars, then sleep like a newborn baby. This is a peaceful, private and
totally natural paradise to take you back to yourself again.
INSIDER TIP Dont bother to pack many clothes: you really wont see
anyone else (this is not a place for the glitzy or socially inclined).
BOOK IT Africa Travel (+44 207843 3500; www.africatravel.co.uk)
offers seven nights from 9,095 full board, including ights and
helicopter transfers.
IN BRIEF Great-value and accessible Ayurveda

THE LOWDOWN Some of the best spa bargains in Europe can be
found in the Tyrolean mountain villages where small, family-run hotels
have changed with the times, adding treatment wings, installing sauna
and steam rooms (they really excel at this) and removing dumplings
from the menu. The 30-room Sonnhof, which underwent complete
refurbishment and reopened in 2012 as an Ayurvedic spa, is a particularly
shining example. You open the curtains every morning to heart-lifting
views of snowy peaks, breathe in the purest air, eat nutritious food,
sleep in spotless surroundings, and then at the end of the week theres
no horrible shock when you inspect the bill. What really distinguishes this
place, however, is that along with the much more expensive Parkschlssen
in Germany, the Kempinski in Gozo and the Hotel de France in Jersey,
it is one of only a handful of hotels this close to home to offer proper
Ayurveda. Dr Alaettin Sinop, an Indian GP and naturopath, can tell just
by holding your hand what sort of highly strung state of mind you are in.
Alongside Ayurvedic practitioner Dr Gaurav Sharma, Dr Sinop presides
over a 13-strong team offering a huge programme: everything from
shirodhara (an insanely relaxing treatment where warm oil is poured onto
your forehead) to the traditional Panchakarma detox (brilliant for shifting
weight, this involves minimal food, ghee to slosh out your digestive
system, daily yoga, breathing exercises and a lot of massage); acupuncture
was recently introduced, too. There is also a three-day cookery course
run by Swiss Ayurvedic chef Johannes Baumgartner, who spent years
in India cooking for temple monks. Youll learn about spices and their
various healing properties fennel seeds to cleanse the breath, nutmeg
in warm water to induce sleep and recipes such as three-minute banana
curry with cumin, ginger, chilli, cinnamon and cream; or the marvellously
detoxifying and energising green mung-bean soup. The Ayurvedic spa
was the idea of Brigitte Mauracher, late wife of the owner Johann and
mother to the eager, friendly Lisa and Christina, both in their 20s. Sadly,
Brigitte died just a few months after the opening, so it has been left to
her daughters to put into practice all that she had planned. Lisa teaches
yoga and meditation, and Christina has a degree in Ayurvedic science
medicine which she puts into practice here on a daily basis. We try to
make everything as wonderful as our mother would have made it, to
honour her memory, explains Christina. Perhaps as a result of this
sentiment, theres an immediate emotional connection when you arrive at
the hotel, which no doubt enhances the healing work done here.
INSIDER TIP Book the Ayurveda Suite, which looks straight across the
mountain and valley. And you must go for a walk in the mountains:
possibly the best treatment available anywhere.
co.uk/condenast) offers a three-night Ayurveda Taster from 719
full board, including ights, transfers, treatments, yoga and meditation
activities, and use of the Ayurveda Centre.
Clockwise from top left:

Spa therapists at Banyan
Tree Phuket; Hot Spring
Pool at Angsana
Tengchong Hot Spring
Village in China; View
from Al Khaimah Pool
Villa at Banyan Tree
Al Wadi in the UAE
health& HOLIDAYS
In 1994 Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts pioneered the tropical garden spa concept:
\HDUVRQLWUHPDLQVDVSDUHVRUWEUDQGE\ZKLFKRWKHUVDUHGHQHG
or a total spa pick-me-up, Banyan Tree is one

of our all-time favourites. Celebrating its 20th
anniversary, the internationally-renowned group
has teamed up with Jax Coco, the environmentallyconscious coconut water favoured by celebrities, sports
stars and health experts. This exotic duo celebrates the
natural and puts healthy lifestyles rst.
where it all started

Banyan Trees story started with the opening of Asias
rst tropical garden spa resort, Banyan Tree Phuket.
The concept being a holistic spa that uses traditional
Eastern therapies passed down through the generations.
Named after the sacred tree, Banyan Tree Spa Phuket
offers guests a total Sanctuary for the Senses, a place for
physical, mental and spiritual renewal. To achieve this, it
focuses on a non-clinical high-touch, low-tech approach
that celebrates human touch alongside the use of natural
herbs and spices. Following its extraordinary success in
Phuket, Banyan Tree has taken its unique approach
global, opening more than 30 spa resorts in 20 years.
innovative vision
Banyan Tree is both founder and innovator in the
ever-evolving spa industry: recent creations include the
Rainforest Experience (available at Banyan Tree Al

Wadi, Banyan Tree Mayakoba, Banyan Tree Samui
and Banyan Tree Sanya). This is a state-of-the-art
hydrotherapy facility infused with Asian-inspired
therapies: a one-off rejuvenating bliss-out for mind,
body and soul. Another recent addition to Banyan
Trees spa portfolio is its hot spring retreats in China
at Banyan Tree
Chongqing Beibei and
Angsana Tengchong
Hot Spring Village.
These retreats are an
ode to everything that
Banyan Tree stands for
and anyone Beibeibound should try their
signature treatments
using volcanic mud.
The private hot spring
pools provide healing
benets used in China
for centuries and the
dramatic landscapes
of mountains, rivers
and temples add a
heightened sense
of the spiritual.
sanctuary for the senses

All Banyan Tree Spas are created with the senses in
mind and each treatment enhances and enlivens
touch, smell, sight and sound. Banyan Tree
signature treatments also incorporate local
ingredients to create unique destination-inspired
experiences. A stalwart in ancient Asian medicine,
ginger is often found on the spa menu. Many
treatments draw on this ingredient but the two that
get rave reviews are the wonderful Warm Ginger
Body Scrub at Banyan Tree Hangzhou (great for
circulation and detoxication) and the Thai Ginger
Healer (Banyan Tree Phuket) with its invigorating
Ginger Body Scrub, Thai Herbal Heat Treatment,
Herbal Enhancer Body Wrap, yoga massage and
aromatic Ginger Bath. Lemongrass is also a spa
menu mainstay: its scent calms, aids relaxation and
reduces anxiety. Other ingredients used are soya
beans (great antioxidants that help slow down the
development of wrinkles) and sesame oil used as
part of the legendary Royal Banyan treatment
a must-try at all Banyan Tree Spas.
Jax Coco is just as nature intended,
100 percent pure coconut water with absolutely
no added sugar, preservatives or colouring. Whats
more it is super hydrating, packed full of natural
electrolytes and great to combine with a healthy
lifestyle, low in calories and tastes delicious.
For further information and special
offers visit banyantree.com/jaxcoco
or call 00800 300 200 00
SUNSHINE SAVIOURS
A reinvigorating blast of heat just when you need it, with therapists and treatments on tap
BEST
HEALTHY
HIDEAWAY
VA M I Z I I S L A N D
QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPEL AGO,

MOZAMBIQUE
IN BRIEF Unspoilt castaway paradise for bespoke nurturing

THE LOWDOWN What a beach this is: wild and windswept, dotted
with driftwood, all manner of shells and creamy coral. Sea turtles
nest on the downy white sands; the conservation team has tagged one
of them, Claudia, and tracked her all the way to Kenya. The water is
endless different shades of blue and grey and can reach a bath-warm
30C, while never dipping below 20C this is a genuine year-round
destination, though winds perk up between January and March.
And when the tide is out a vast, lunar-white landscape reveals itself.
A stay here is a reminder that nature is the most powerful spa of all:
soft, frothy clouds hang delicately in the sky, weaver birds sing to each
other as they build nests in the fringes of your villa, and the sea can
be heard all night. The island, which is home to not only the hotel but
three villages, has all manner of wildlife: kingshers dart in the bushes;
butteries land on your shoulder as you drive along its rocky roads
in a Jeep; monkeys have been known to pilfer from guests rooms;
and if youre lucky youll spot a king crab, though you dont want to
tread on one in the dark as they can grow up to a metre long. After a
few days here in the midst of a British winter, you will come up for air
like a blinking mole emerging into the light. The general managers wife,
Meg Fey a South African in her 30s, who grew up on a dairy farm
is a one-woman health team. Shes brilliant, balanced, strong and
wise, and performs some of the best reexology anywhere, reading your
body as if she knows you inside-out. She also gives wondrous massages
with coconut and vanilla, facials using wild ginger and ginseng, head
massages that leave you snoozing, and soulful, one-on-one unravelling
yoga at just the right pace, accompanied by the sound of chirping
crickets. As there is no actual spa building, all therapies take place in
your villa. There are no lists, no forms, no staff asking you a million
times, Did you enjoy your treatment? All you need is someone with
healing hands who listens to you and your body. You soon start
to feel better, brighter. Theres no requirement to detox here, either.
The food is fresh and inventive. A breakfast of just-squeezed orange
juice, platters of fruit, creamy yogurt with sticky granola, and wholegrain
toast with homemade jams and marmalades avoured with cumin
is a comforting and reliable start to the day. Lunch might come in
the form of a hideaway picnic, perhaps by a deserted lighthouse. And
a picnic is never actually just a picnic: there will be soup to start cold
and zingy courgette, mint and lime - followed by maybe three different
salads, kingsh with chickpeas and aubergine, a magnicent barbequed
lobster, then watermelon sorbet to nish. There are drinks and nibbles,
such as spankingly fresh sashimi, at the main lodge before dinner,
where youll be asked your plans for the next day, and then treats such
as grilled halloumi with beetroot or spiced snapper with vegetables.
You soon slip into the cool, laidback African rhythm of the place, playing
backgammon, reading a stash of books, signing up for another massage.
Its reputation has uctuated over the years, but right now Vamizi is top
of its game (more so than Zanzibars Mnemba). Its extremely special,
unplugged, low-impact, eco-minded and gloriously unmanicured.
A step back in time, while also being totally up to speed.
INSIDER TIP Theres a World Wildlife Fund base here, and conservation
is a cornerstone of the development of Vamizi, so dont miss the
top-notch lectures by naturalists in the treehouse.
BOOK IT Africa Travel (+44 20 7843 3500; www.africatravel.co.uk)
offers seven nights from 5,195, full board, including guided
activities, ights and transfers.
SUNSHINE SAVIOURS
B A N YA N T R E E S E YC H E L L E S
MAHE, SEYCHELLES
IN BRIEF Ultra-reliable brand with authoritative know-how

THE LOWDOWN Banyan Tree is a hotel group renowned for delivering
zoned-out pampering to perfection, so you feel completely calm and
cossetted in capable hands. Its therapists all undergo formal training at
spa academies in Indonesia, Thailand or Lijiang and embody an innate
grace, ever-sensitive to guests needs. At this slick Seychelles hideout,
irresistible extras include a near-empty powdery beach, Bombay
Sapphire-colour seas and a preternaturally back-to-nature setting. There
may be 60 villas, but theyre so well hidden on the hillside youd never
know. In fact, where is everyone? Six guests on the kilometre-long beach
and its a traffic jam. The wow factor here is the space and privacy.
Skinny-dip in your villas pool and shower on the outdoor deck no one
will notice. At the spa, paths wind around palm trees and huge granite
boulders then up to the breezy open-sided pavilions, designed
so that as you gaze over the tree canopy theres not a soul to be seen.
Hi-tech gizmos have no place here: its all about ancient Asian traditions
(Thai, Indonesian, Ayurvedic), natural ingredients (cucumber, coconut,
lemongrass) and plenty of time diminutive Thai and Balinese spa staff
apologise that massages are only two hours long. Dont be fooled by
their seraphic appearance: these therapists are rm and thorough, and
theyll turn you away from a facial if youre sunburnt. Submit to the
Royal Banyan three hours of acupressure, herbal compresses, face
and head massage and youll emerge as relaxed as a rag doll. Book for
late afternoon and in that nal, limpid moment a soak in a gingerinfused bath youll gaze up through palm fronds at a starlit sky. Lower
back pain? Book a herbal pouch massage. Knotted muscles? Balinese
or lomi-lomi massage. Tension headache? Ayurvedic Shirodhara. Cant
decide? Go for the Oriental Romance, a steam bath, body scrub, Thai
massage and super-softening facial. The approach isnt for everyone:
its a bit incense-y and theres no one to rake the sand or move your
sunbed into the shade. But if you get the vibe, youll love it.
INSIDER TIP Rawisa is tiny with a sweet smile, but she will stretch
your body to places its never gone before. And youll swear shes
grown an extra pair of hands as she soothes every hard-boiled knot.
BOOK IT Seven nights from 1,822 including breakfast. +248
438 3500; www.banyantree.com. Ethiopian Airlines (+44 800
635 0644; www.ethiopianairlines.com) ies to Mah, Seychelles
via Addis Ababa six times a week.
O N E & O N LY R E E T H I R A H
IN BRIEF Revved-up and highly manicured island hotspot
THE LOWDOWN If youre not averse to being over-spoilt this hotel
is heaven, with benecent staff whizzing around in white buggies,
delivering Champagne on ice and ferrying guests from A to B. Each
beach villa is a palatial space of Malaysian-inuenced mahogany and
teak and opens onto a private pool for late-night dips.The sea is a
sensation for swimming, snorkelling or soaking off jet lag, and the
perfect foil to the islands Japanese-inspired gem: the spa.A sip of
ginger tea heralds the start of an extraordinary journey through
verdant gardens to a treatment room that feels the epitome of
tranquillity. Therapies marry science with a holistic approach.The
two-hour detox is a thorough overhaul after
being scrubbed, wrapped and rinsed in an
outside shower with a view, you feel pure,
free of stress and toxins.Both a Clarisonic
cleanser and icy rose crystals are swooshed
over skin in the Rejuvenating Facial this is a
spa as indulgence, but with enough
technological savvy to ensure lasting results
(so that forehead crease remains at bay for
weeks). Continue your health drive in the resorts four restaurants,

where the Clean&Lean range (devised in partnership with Bodyism,
the company founded by exercise-expert-to-the-stars James Duigan)
comprises items light in calories but laden with taste, such as
Atlantic salmon ceviche and Vietnamese rice rolls. Perhaps the star
of the show, though, is the enchantingly lit, overwater Tapasake
restaurant serving wagyu beef and buttery black cod. But then,
there is no weak link in this seamless production. Indeed, there is an
improbable sense of the possible: everything can be perfect, and
you will certainly leave feeling more so.
INSIDER TIP Be sure to take a boat trip to the reef where, in an
underwater circus among the blue and
pink corals, parrot sh, starsh and puffersh
perform, and perhaps the graceful turtle
will give a slow royal wave with one ipper
as he surfaces for air.
BOOK IT Elegant Resorts (+44 1244
897525; www.elegantresorts.co.uk)
offers seven nights from 3,675, including
ights, transfers and breakfast.
NORTH MALE ATOLL, MALDIVES
C H E VA L B L A N C R A N D H E L I
NEW
NOONU ATOLL, MALDIVES
IN BRIEF Glamour and sophistication amid endless sea

THE LOWDOWN Eight years after the LVMH group opened its rst
Cheval Blanc hotel in Courchevel, here at last is its second outpost.
As the de Havilland ying boat splashes down into a lagoon then chugs
towards the hotels jetty, you know its going to be just as glitzy, just
as elegant. In fact, its knockout. Like Courchevel, the palette is
taupe, mother of pearl and oyster grey, with ashes of lemon yellow,
a Vincent Beaurin-sculptured sun disc on the wall here, a row of
cushions on a white sofa there. Nine thousand down- and featherlled pillows and cushions were delivered to this 45-villa, Jean-Michel
Gathy-designed resort. For the villas, Gathy has shamelessly repeated
the airy, cathedral-roofed loft style he used at Reethi Rah, and they
are easily the most stunning spaces in the whole of the Maldives.
Pleasing little details reveal themselves everywhere, from the candles
in primrose glass holders lit beside your free-standing bath each
evening, to the straw-coloured espadrilles in the dressing room in
your shoe size, of course, thanks to the pre-departure questionnaire
sent by the resort alchemists. The French concept of lart de recevoir
is the big thing here. The alchemists are keen to ex their muscles
and organise a hurricane-lamp-lit dinner on a remote sandbank,
yoga at dawn, or golf on a practice range where, if hit into the water,
the biodegradable balls become sh food. The tasting menu at Le
1947, the wagyu burgers (about 35) in the beach caf and SpanishJapanese fusion restaurant The Diptyque also exert a powerful
lure. But once youve taken the dhoni across to the spa, on a palmshaded island of its own, youll want to stay put. In the six large,
thatched treatment villas, the changing rooms alone are so whiteon-white gorgeous big shower room, long dressing table, enticing
box of cosmetics you might forget to scamper through and climb
on to the massage table, just feet away from the beach and the
lapping lagoon. Even the rattan ceiling is exquisitely crafted. The antijet-lag head massage sounds tempting but is, bizarrely, a thumping
endurance test that feels more like punishment than pleasure.Instead,
choose from the languorous full-body massages, which are exactly
what you want: straightforward, with an adept mix of strokes and the
gentlest of facials to follow, all using Guerlain products and a choice
of scents such as stimulating citrus or smoky incense. Afterwards,
steam away in the dramatic hammam. Then, if you are too dazed to
move, Moosa or one of the other butlers will jump aboard the dhoni
and escort you home.
INSIDER TIP This is a family-friendly hotel, too, so you can schedule
long hours in the spa while the over-threes head to Le Carrousel with
its waterslide and crafts room, childrens yoga and beach treasure hunts.
BOOK IT Cazenove+Loyd (+44 20 7384 2332; www.cazloyd.
com) offers seven nights from 5,630 per person, including ights,
transfers and breakfast.
A M A N ZO E
PELOPONNESE, GREECE
IN BRIEF Lush and indulgent long-weekend break
THE LOWDOWN Set inland, but with elevated views of the deep blue
Aegean sea, this is a serenely spartan resort. The design is pure Ed
Tuttle: marble alcoves, reective ponds and white colonnades based
on ancient Grecian designs. Its 38 gloriously large villas have sun
terraces and mini pools, while inside all is grey and white sleekness with
a scattering of sculptured heads, tortoiseshell bowls and ceramic vases
lled with sprigs of home-grown herbs. The beach is a short drive or
20-minute cycle away, or you can sunbathe on the wide, cinnamonbrown-striped loungers beside the vast main pool. Theres a tennis court
and gym, and one-to-one personal training and yoga can also be booked.
Pilates is taught in an impressively equipped studio by Alexandra, who
begins any session with a thorough postural assessment. She trained
with Pilates consultant and clinical therapist Ivana Daniell, who runs
retreats here every May and September. The spa speciality is the gentle,
water-based body therapy Watsu. All the therapists are taught by aquatic
bodywork specialist Steve Karle, and sessions take place in a soothing,
light-lled pavilion. Watch the sky through the bamboo ceiling as the
empathetic Sophia swishes you through the water in her surprisingly
strong arms shes very good at Thai massage, too. Tranquility prevails
in the rest of the spa, the design of which gives you the impression
of being in a temple. A hammam has opened this spring, under the
watchful eye of dashing spa manager Stavros, and for something more
straightforward theres a menu of holistic facials and body treatments.
These use Amans own chemical-free products, devised by Sodashi, as
well as local ingredients including sea salt to exfoliate and orange oil to
refresh. Try the clay wraps with yogurt, or aromatherapy massage with
olive oil and mint. Then wander back to your room and catch the scent
of lavender and rosemary on the breeze. Meals include Greek-inspired
comfort food such as giant salads with tuna and fresh grilled octopus.
Breakfasts are especially impressive theres a morning salad of
smoked salmon with quails eggs, cinnamon toast and the Amanzoe
Intelligence, a delicious smoothie of avocado, mint, lime and pear.
INSIDER TIP For total privacy on the shoreline, hire a cabana at the
Beach Club, where youll be looked after by attentive but unobtrusive
staff. Guests will nd a chic black canvas beach bag and oppy straw
hat waiting in their pavilion, so no need to pack those.
BOOK IT Pool Pavilion from about 1,115. +44 800 2255 2626; www.
amanresorts.com. British Airways (+44 844 493 0787; www.ba.com/
athens) ies from Heathrow to Athens four times a day.
V I C E R OY A N G U I L L A
ANGUILL A, CARIBBEAN
IN BRIEF Designer Caribbean with a pampering edge

THE LOWDOWN On a clear day you can see St Barths in the distance,
but Anguilla is aworld away, the less showy and some would say
prettier sister. Set above Meads Bay, one of the West Indies most
perfect beaches, the Viceroy is all rock n roll, funky design with views
of the turquoise oceaneverywhere you look. Kitted out by the super
stylish Kelly Wearstler, its where Californian cool meets the Caribbean
heat. In keeping with the stingray-skin-covered furniture and modern
sculpture, guests dress to impress, so pack your Melissa Odabash kaftan
and Charlotte Olympia wedges. Days are spent itting between beach
loungers, the shady cabanas (with vast sofas, mini fridges and TVs) around
thepool and, of course, the grade-A spa on the cliff top. Treatments
are refreshingly hi-tech for these parts: ultrasonic microdermabrasion,
LED light therapy, and skin-rming Valmont facials using medical-grade
collagen masks. More soulful is the Raindrop Harmony a spine-tingling
massage in which warm essential oils are dripped up your back or
the Earth and AirRitual, a treatment inspired by Native American
wisdom, which aligns your chakras using colourful silk veils whispered
over your skin. It sounds weird, but it really lifts tension from the most
frazzled parts of your body. With a bigposse of guests from LA, the
gym is also a focal point and you can sign up for spin classes and power
yoga (its modelled onashtanga, so youll need to be fairly t). At night,
aDJspins reggae in the sunset bar, and youll enjoy a spectacular
supper at Coba, such as red snapper and truffle fries. For something
more relaxed, head down the road to the On Da Rocks bar the locals
best-kept secret for the best craysh of your life.
INSIDER TIP A couple of spa treatments are available poolside, so you
can have a hydrating, sun-protection mask applied to your hair, or a
speedy neck, back and shoulder massage, without leaving your sunbed.
BOOK IT Abercrombie & Kent (+44 845 485 1146; www.
abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers seven nights from 1,875, including
ights, transfers and breakfast.
NEW
P O I N T YA M U BY C O M O
PHUKET, THAIL AND
IN BRIEF Thailands most exciting opening this year

THE LOWDOWN Being rhythmically massaged to the point where
you feel your mind is melting, while gazing out over the Andaman Sea,
is an experience that should come with a warning: its addictive. No
sooner is your 75-minute session over than you want it to start all over
again. The ickering candles scent the air with jasmine and lemongrass
and by merely lifting your head you can drink in a view of Phang Nga
Bay and its awesome limestone islands one of the most iconic sights
in Asia. COMO took over this property last year, making Point Yamu
its rst island hotel in Thailand, and you can see why: its a wonderful
spot, fresh and modern all open, airy spaces with ashes of
turquoise and endless beguiling detail, from the enveloping cotton
bathrobes in the sybaritic bathrooms to the lobster-trap lampshades,
black-and-white striped crockery and walls hung with Thai roof tiles.
In terms of design, nowhere in Phuket matches it. The fact that you
are on the uncluttered, unspoiled side of the island helps, too. Come
for quietness, for contemplation, and for a spa with mellow, holistic
undertones. As at her hotel Parrot Cay, the
therapists are exceptional, with magic hands;
its rumoured that billionaire owner Christina
Ong personally picks all staff. Treatments
range from massages to detoxing skin
treatments, but also include Thai Lannaheritage therapies developed over 2,000
years ago, which use only a small amount
of oil. Or no oil at all, in the case of the Thai
massage, where you wear pyjamas and are stretched in all directions
to unleash trapped energy. Other options include the abdominal chi
massage great for those with digestion issues, if a little painful and
the full body compress using warm boluses lled with up to 12 different
traditional herbs. There are free 8am and late-afternoon yoga, tai chi
or Pilates classes run by Asis, a former monk, as well as biking around
Yamu village, diving, deep-sea shing and snorkelling off Phi Phi
Island. But nothing beats stretching out on one of the massage beds.
And the isolated setting, on the crest of a breezy headland where
you can still spot elephants in the rubber plantations, means that after
check-in, guests tend to stay put. Once or twice, youll want to board
a long-tail boat for the 20-minute ride to the hotels island beach club,
since the one drawback about Point Yamu is the lack of an expanse
of sand (the shoreline around the headland is muddy, visited only
by locals foraging for molluscs). But youll spend much of your time by
the gigantic 100-metre pool outside the glass-walled La Sirena
restaurant until your next spa appointment comes around.
INSIDER TIP Buy Very Thai, the witty but
profound insiders guide to Thai pop culture,
including the national obsession with
massage, by Philip Cornwel-Smith and John
Goss. Its perfect reading for the spa terrace.
BOOK IT Carrier (+44 161 492 1355;
www.carrier.co.uk) offers seven nights
from 1,585, including ights, transfers
and breakfast.
blissedout
Serenity and spirituality meet state-of-the art
facilities at The Mulia Nusa Dua, Bali
Clockwise from this image:

Ocean pool at Mulia Resort;
The Lounge at The Mulia;
Ice Room at Mulia Spa;
and The Baron Suite
sun-kissed
Suites are vast, most with spacious balconies
overlooking the Indian Ocean giving you a front
row seat for spectacular sunsets. All come with
private jacuzzis and personal butler service. Three
restaurants Chinese, Mediterranean and Pan
Asian and Japanese serve some of the best food
on the island and all are beautiful, carefully
curated spaces. Theres also a complimentary
breakfast and a decadent Afternoon Tea, served
overlooking the spectacular oceanfront pool
surrounded by private cabanas.
rising spa
ali, island of the gods, blessed with lush forests,

white sand beaches, verdant terraced paddy
elds and rugged mountains. Theres a thriving
spa scene in this naturally spiritual land; Bali
really understands wellness. Now theres a new player
on the scene with unrivalled standards of comfort,
luxury and service. The Mulia Nusa Dua, in Bali
is a new six-star, all-suite resort, recently voted one of
Cond Nast Travelers best new hotels in the world.
Facing out over one of Balis loveliest beaches, the
hotel combines a relaxed, breezy nonchalance with
seriously slick, gilt-edged opulence.
The Mulia Spa is a serene, calming, lemongrassscented space that promotes a sense of peace the
moment you arrive. The minimalist aesthetic
marble corridors, wooden slatted walls and
soothing, natural tones belies a serious, state-ofthe-art facility. The Spa Wellness Suite includes an
Aroma Steam Room, a Finnish wood sauna and
the Asia Pacics only Ice Fountain room with
chromatherapy chakra-cleansing colours. Theres
also a hot and cold hydrotonic pool excellent for
detoxing and kick-starting sluggish metabolisms,
and award-winning hammam tables for incredible
deep cleansing scrubs. Holistic treatments are
based on ancient wisdoms which believe in senus
per aquam healing through water and fuse
both Asian and Western techniques. Mulia Spa has

also recently introduced full day wellness programmes,
complete with wellness cuisine and a training regime
that is designed to nurture and restore wellbeing.
For more information visit themulia.com
or email info.EUR@themulia.com
THAITHERAPY
Rich culture, stunning scenery and mouth-watering food are three good reasons to visit Thailand.
Exceptional spas offering mind, body and life-changing treatments are the real clinchers
hailand is the original spa

destination in Asia and, thanks
to innovative and highly
effective treatments delivered
in breathtakingly beautiful
surroundings, it continues to
delight those in need of rest and
rejuvenation. Whether your aim is
to leave looking younger, feeling
energised or completely overhaul
your health and wellbeing, let spa
specialist Healing Holidays arrange
your perfect Thai escape. All you
need to do is pack.
CHIVA-SOM, HUA HIN

Chiva-Som, Asias original destination spa, has been transforming the minds, bodies and spirits of spa
goers for nearly 20 years. 2014 has seen the internationally acclaimed health resort re-design and
revamp its retreats, ensuring each one is even more focused on guests individual goals. Choose from 11
themed programmes, including A Taste of Chiva-Som, which is ideal for newbies, Inner Peace, which is
perfect for stressed-out souls, and Art of Detox, which is a must for those in need of a thorough cleanse.
The newest addition to the range of life-enhancing retreats is Optimal Performance, a programme that
aims to enhance physical tness and elevate emotional and spiritual functioning. Drawing on treatments
and classes from the resorts tness and physiotherapy departments, this is an ideal retreat both for those
wanting to ramp up their tness regime and those recovering from illness or injury. Athletes and those
of the non-athletic persuasion are all welcome. Chiva-Soms renowned gourmet spa cuisine is
designed to complement each retreat, with creations which are delicious and imaginative yet
low in fat, sugar, salt and calories.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night Optimal Performance programme from 3,399.00 per person sharing.
This includes ights, transfers, full-board accommodation in an ocean room, a wellness consultation and treatments.
T R AVE L L E R A D VE RT I SE M E NT FE AT U R E
KAMALAYA WELLNESS SANCTUARY

AND HOLISTIC SPA
SPA, KOH SAMUI
Tucked away on the
he qu
quieter
e e side
de oof Koh Samu
Samui, Kama
Kamalaya
aya
excels aat life-enriching
exce
e en ch ng hea
healthy
hy ho
holidays
day that
ha fuse
u e hea
healing
ng
therapies
he ap e from
om Ea
East and We
West in
n a stunning
unn ng na
natural
ua
environment.
env
onmen He
Here,
e ho
holisticc we
wellness
ne p
programmes
og amme add
address
e
over-indulgence,
ove
ndu gence stress
e and bu
burnout
nou w
with
h a we
well-researched
e ea ched
menu oof ove
over 70 treatments
ea men inspired
n p ed by traditional
ad ona
Chinese
Ch
ne e med
medicine,
c ne na
naturopathy,
u opa hy homeopa
homeopathy
hy and Ayu
Ayurveda.
veda
This yea
Th
year sees
ee the
he launch
aunch oof Kama
Kamalayas
aya 12
12th
hp
programme,
og amme
Embracing
Emb
ac ng Change
Change, wh
which
ch ooffers
e the
he chance too exp
explore
oe
your inner
you
nne self
e du
during
ng be
bespoke
poke men
mentoring
o ng sessions
e on aaimed
med
aat teaching
each ng you how too recognise
ecogn e and unde
understand
and you
your
emotional
emo
ona hab
habits, how too release,
e ea e hea
heal and rebuild
ebu d nega
negative
ve
emotional
emo
ona pa
patterns
e n and how too sustain
u a n this
h new behav
behaviour.
ou
Ideal
dea for
o those
ho e need
needing
ng support
uppo through
h ough ma
major
o lifee change
changes,
this
h journey
ou ney for
o the
he hea
heart and m
mind
nd is supported
uppo ed by
physical
phy
ca therapies
he ap e that
ha aassist the
he p
processes
oce e oof letting
e ng go and
eestablishing
ab h ng emo
emotional
ona ba
balance.
ance You can aalsoo tryy an A
Asian
an
foot
oo and hand ma
massage,
age reiki
e k oor a ggroup
oup yoga oor p
pilates
a e cclass.
a
Of cou
O
course,
e you don
dont have too op
opt for
o a we
wellness
ne p
programme;
og amme
Kamalaya
Kama
aya is the
he pe
perfect
ec p
place
ace in
n wh
which
ch too relax
e ax and unw
unwind.
nd
The
e ap
va e beach
ne cen
e he
ba steam
eam cave
n
Theres
private
beach,
tness
centre,
herbal
cavern,
wo swimming
w mm ng poo
e y showcasing
howca ng wo
om
two
pools, an aart ga
gallery
workk from
eg ona aartists and even a monk
ha a ggreat
ea spot
po
regional
monks cave thats
o p
ac ng med
a on
for
practising
meditation.
Hea ng Ho
Healing
Holidays
da can
an aarrange
ange a seven-night
e en n gh we
wellness
ne pprogramme
og amme from
om
2,420.00 per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, and full-board
wellness
aaccommodation
ommoda on inn a hhillside
de room,
oom a we
ne consultation,
on u a on a bbio-impedance
o mpedan e
analysis, ho
holistic aactivi
activities,
Exclusive
ana
e treatments.
ea men Ex
u e too Traveller
a e e readers:
eade a
complimentary
worthh 150 pe
per pe
person,
early check-in/late
omp men a spa
pa voucher
ou he wo
on ea
he k n/ a e
check-out
upgrade
he k ou and complimentary
omp men a room
oom upg
ade subject
ub e too aavailability.
a ab
To book any of
o these
hese offers,
o ers
con
ac Hea
ng Ho
days
contact
Healing
Holidays
(020
3592; hea
healingholidays.
020 7843 3592
ngho days
co.uk/condenast)
quote
co
uk condenas and quo
e
Cond
Cond Nas
Nast Trave
Traveller.
er
Terms
Te
m and cond
conditions
on and da
datee
restrictions
e c on app
applyy too aall ooffers.
e
ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY, KOH SAMUI

Since its inception six years ago, boutique wellness resort
Absolute Sanctuary has evolved to become one of Asias top
spa resorts. Its easy to see why: its location, in the hillside of
tropical island Koh Samui, presents stunning views over the
Gulf of Thailand; its Love Kitchen restaurant serves the best
spa cuisine on the island; and the state-of-the-art detox centre
offers cleansing programmes that will leave you squeaky clean
from the inside out. Choose from its comprehensive range of
detox programs that feature colon hydrotherapy sessions,
detox drinks, nutritional supplements, massages and yoga
classes held in one of its fully-equipped yoga studios.
Speaking of yoga, you dont have to be a yoga enthusiast to
stay here but youll be in exceedingly good company if you
are because Absolute Sanctuary has become a popular
destination for teacher-training courses and workshops run
by world-renowned yogis, the resort is also the rst to launch
a pilates reformer bootcamp holiday in Asia. As well as topnotch detoxes and yoga classes, Absolute Sanctuary excels in
pampering treatments and rejuvenating therapies. Massages,
facials and healing cures abound in the spa. Then retire to
your Moroccan-styled room to rest and reect.
Healing Holidays can arrange an eight-night detox stay from 1,850.00

per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, accommodation, full board,
a wellness consultation and detox treatments. Exclusive to Traveller readers:
book an eight-night programme and receive two additional nights free
including breakfast, a complimentary room upgrade, a pilates group
reformer class and a Thai massage.
GET FIT
The top spots to shape up
MOST
CONSISTENT
HIGH
PERFORMER
I N : S PA
ANDALUCIA, SPAIN
IN BRIEF Exceptional year-round detox and tness
THE LOWDOWN Currently celebrating its 10th anniversary, In:Spa
is still absolutely at the top of its game, running an extensive
programme of seven-day combined exercise, detox and yoga retreats
in boutique-hotel settings in the South of France, Marrakech and
Spain, to which it ies in its own team of experts. Because the courses
are run each and every month, there are plenty of dates to choose
from, so not only can you do a week to get bikini-ready for the beach,
but you can also head off for a post-summer reboot in Provence, or
sign up for a holistic rather than hedonistic New Years Eve in Morocco.
The private outpost in Andaluca is a 21-room, converted 18th-century
monastery with a fabulous swimming pool and good-sized bedrooms
(stone oors, traditional furniture, shady terraces) arranged over two
storeys on either side of a beautiful courtyard lled with orange trees
and bougainvillaea. Bad eating habits are stopped from the get-go:
alcohol, salt, caffeine, red meat, wheat and sugar are all banned and
replaced with dishes including roast chicken with garlic, lemon and
rosemary for lunch and watermelon gazpacho followed by Thai
sh curry for dinner. Punishing yourself isnt the point; instead, its
about overhauling your system through re-education and exercise.
Nutritionist Claudia Norris, a lecturer at the UK College of Nutrition
and Health, really knows her stuff and teaches the importance of
controlling blood-sugar levels and getting your acid/alkaline balances
right. Chef Miranda Martin gives simple cooking demonstrations of
meals that can be easily recreated at home, such as turkey skewers
with chilli, lime and ginger. Similarly, head personal trainer Stan Blair
puts together routines to squeeze in around a busy lifestyle, whether
at 6am before a breakfast meeting or after the children go to bed at
night. Even if 20 minutes is all you have, there are no excuses.
Sceptics soon start to believe in the power of a decent diet; arriving
ragged, they leave bursting with energy. During the day, there are
anusara yoga sessions in the converted stables (with the odd donkey
sighting for distraction), guided 10km hikes through the spectacular,
rugged surrounding hills, hardcore circuits, boxing and highly
energetic dance classes led by former Stomp performer Dan Baines.
All this is counterbalanced with wonderful deep-tissue and restorative
massages to soothe aches and pains. During summer retreats, the
heat of southern Spain makes working out seem twice as hard,
although programmes are tailored to your ability so you wont feel out
of your depth. Alternatively, for those who are super-keen there are
optional extras such as morning runs and one-on-one yoga. Theres
also plenty of downtime for swimming and reading, but dont expect
too much solitary peace. This is a group holiday, which means lots
of motivating camaraderie, everyone eating and chatting together
at meal times; some trips have even resulted in marriage (plenty of
men have caught the In:Spa bug too). While the programme is mapped
out in advance, theres also scope for some spontaneous magic. If
theres a full moon youll be jollied outside for starlit salutations and
you can combine mountain biking with bird spotting on a dusk ride to
see the nightjars. For the journey home, youre sent on your way
with a lifeline for the plane: a delicious chickpea, tomato and chicken
salad box to help you avoid an in-ight junk-food relapse. No wonder
this companys reputation is so rock solid.
INSIDER TIP In:Spas excellent sister outts include Destination Yoga
and Fitscape, for those who want even more of an emphasis on either
yoga or tness. Both also operate all year round.
BOOK IT A seven-night retreat costs from 1,995 full board,
including all group activities, a nutrition consultation, a personal
training session, two massages and transfers. +44 20 8968 0501;
www.inspa-retreats.com
THE FITNESS RENAISSANCE

TUSCANY, ITALY
IN BRIEF Grand but grounded sweaty overhaul

THE LOWDOWN An impressive 18th-century summer villa with a
majestic open-air amphitheatre is the extraordinary backdrop for an
intense week of tness run by Welsh personal trainer Drew Perrott. Expect
an energising programme that begins the moment you drive through the
wrought-iron gates and up to the classical faade of Villa di Geggiano.
Its immaculate box hedges and line of lemon trees are so uniform in their
layout you feel inclined to walk that little bit taller straight away. Despite
its grand location, this retreat is very much a family affair. Perrotts mother
Christine devises the list of holistic treatments, which include reexology,
reiki and massage. Brothers Andrea and Alessandro Boscu Bianchi
Bandinelli, whose family inherited the villa in 1527, are your hosts and
they give heartfelt encouragement over the course of the week. The dirt
tracks that lead off from every corner of the estate and disappear into
the distance are the only clue as to how far you will run over the following
days, that and the Epsom bath salts thoughtfully placed in each bathroom
to ease muscles. Perrott puts you through your paces at sunrise every
morning, up and down the steep slopes of the Chianti countryside.
Before arriving in Italy, he will discuss your health history and thoroughly
establish what you hope to achieve. He is no pushover, but above all he
is focused on improving your technique, so depending on your tness
levels you can choose between a run or power walk, followed by stretching.
Then circuits, core work, boxing and weights, swiftly followed by a dip
in the icy plunge pool to stimulate blood ow and boost your metabolism.
The routine is different each day and Perrotts tness knowledge, from
yoga to Thai boxing, means the innovative schedules keep everyones
attention. TRX (total-body resistance exercise), in which giant straps
are wrapped around trees and used to increase upper-body strength,
is strangely meditative. Afternoon rest activities vary between bike
rides through the countryside, which are more painful than they sound,
and hikes in the hills. Alternatively, make the most of Christines
pampering treatments. A caveman-diet philosophy is applied to the
high-protein meals, which are cooked by the Bandinellis Sri Lankan
chef Damayanthi and shared together in the villa. You eat heartily
at the start of the day, with seasonal snacks such as fennel or mozzarella
with tomato to keep the experience authentically Italian. Lunch and
supper are light to ensure your sleep is restful and the body can
recuperate, and you wake hungry but ready to start over again. After a
week you feel stronger, leave trimmer, possibly have a crush on Perrott
and more than likely glow with a gentle Tuscan tan.
INSIDER TIP Visit Villa di Geggianos shop to pick up some of the estates
wines, olive oil and jam to take home.
BOOK IT A seven-night retreat costs from 1,990 full board, including all
activities and four treatments. +44 7976 619374; www.drewperrott.co.uk
GET FIT
K R I PA LU
MASSACHUSETTS, USA
MURCIA, SPAIN
NEW
IN BRIEF Short and sharp body blitz

THE LOWDOWN Getting up in the dark to knock back a sludgygreen probiotic shot before heading straight out for a run is not many
peoples idea of fun. But its certainly the way to kick-start a new regime.
And thats what this programme at the sport-centric La Manga resort (a
sprawling complex with golf courses, cricket and football pitches and
tennis courts) excels in: inspiring you to nd a healthy routine to plug into
your hectic lifestyle. Its not a boot camp, says upbeat director and trainer
Steve Halsall, wholl call you before arrival to discuss exactly what you want
to get out of the four-day experience, and follow up after the course ends.
Im not a shouter. Instead, his approach is one of encouragement; known
as the body whisperer (a title he laughs off), he has an intuitive sense of
how far to push each person. Over the long weekend youre even allowed a
coffee a day and a glass of wine on Saturday night. But you have to earn it,
with punishing runs up hills in the midday heat, intensive cardio work in the
gym, interval training, weights, core exercises and circuits. This is topped
off with a dip in an ice bath (Usain Bolt-style) for as long as you can bear
it your muscles will thank you for it the following day. But its not all
high-tempo action. Softly spoken yoga instructor Paula Denvir leads daily
classes on the lawn in front of the shared villa. These are designed to stretch
hamstrings and calves that may be screaming after those sunrise runs on
the soft sand of Calblanque beach, deserted save for a lone sherman
knee-deep in the waves. And theres plenty of time to loll by the pool, relax
in the hydrotherapy baths at the spa or have a reviving massage with mint
and eucalyptus lotions. A highlight is the Sunday-morning hike up 1,200ft
Lion Mountain, so-called for its sphinx-like prole, where the air is cool
and fresh with the scent of pine trees and wild thyme. The reward at the top
is beautiful views over the Mar Menor lagoon, and a picnic breakfast of
still-hot quinoa and apple apjacks along with the mandatory daily protein
shake. The food (gluten-free, apart from a sprinkling of granola on the
mid-morning fruit and yogurt) is surprisingly lling: lentil, white bean and
turkey casserole; chickpea, mint and ginger salad; platters of juicy melon and
pineapple. The nutritional breakdown of each meal is set out in a handbook
that you receive at the start of the retreat; its helpful to see just how much
goodness youre packing in. And Halsall gives dietary tips such as adding a
little almond butter to your regular breakfast of porridge and honey to
balance the sugar hit. And the result? Aching muscles aside, you leave
feeling lighter on your feet, sliding into your skinny jeans and with a
determination to switch your newfound tness groove into the next gear.
INSIDER TIP With four bouts of exercise each day, youre going to sweat a
lot. Bring enough clothes for several daily changes and a hat to keep off the sun.
BOOK IT Health & Fitness Travel (+44 20 3397 8891; www.healthandtness
travel.com) offers the four-night F12 Fitness Retreat from 1,195 full
board, including ights, transfers and a bespoke training programme
PHOTOGRAPH: DAEJA FALLAS
F 12 F I T N E S S , L A M A N GA C LU B
IN BRIEF Way-out, left-eld yogic hub

THE LOWDOWN This is North Americas largest yoga retreat centre,
and you couldnt ask for a more stunning spot. But before you get too
excited, be warned: the main building and sprawling car park are
reminiscent of university halls of residence, and the prevalence of
notice boards rather than Buddha statues doesnt induce the usual
atmosphere of a holistic haven. However, with its size (up to 650
guests at any one time) and stature comes a highly respected faculty of
in-house and visiting yoga teachers, including Sarah Powers and Shiva
Rea, along with a host of wellness experts who lead yoga and tness
retreats, teach reiki, promote mindfulness and even give workshops on
How to talk to loved ones on the other side. Guests are a mixed bag:
slick New Yorkers, dreadlocked vegans, New Age energy healers, yoga
newbies and pros all eager for the chance to chant their hearts out
with Krishna Das or simply succumb to a few days downtime on the
popular rest and relaxation programme. Choose from shared dorms or
private rooms; go for the pricier, but far nicer new annexe. Refreshingly
modern, it was built as part of a 10-million project to improve the
campuss energy efficiency and also makes for a more restful nights
sleep away from the buzz of the main building. Most people come for
three or four nights (and some for weeks or even months). A typical
day involves twice-daily yoga classes (choose between gentle, moderate
or vigorous), a guided hike, experiential workshops and empowering
life-coaching lectures participate in as much or as little as you like.
While nothing is compulsory, no trip is complete without shaking your
thing at the daily noon-dance session. Follow the sound of the drum
beat for an hour of uninhibited, surprisingly therapeutic freestyle
dancing. Its hard not to join in, however embarrassed you might be. And
having worked up a sweat and an appetite, make a beeline for lunch.
Food is natural, organic, wholesome and abundant (root roasts, pulses,
miso soup). For guests on a serious health kick, there are also simple
macrobiotic meals (low-sodium, low-fat, lots of grains and vegetables).
Lunch and dinner are sociable affairs but breakfast is eaten in total
silence and there are even dedicated quiet rooms for those who wish to
eat all meals in peace. Check in at the Healing Arts spa, home to a
highly trained team of intuitive therapists, where treatments include
energy work, Ayurveda and lifestyle consultations. Opt for AbhyangaGharshana, a dosha-balancing herbal-oil therapy, or the signature
deep-tissue massage to iron out over-worked limbs. Kripalu is worthy of
its international acclaim and makes for a transformative add-on to a trip to
New York or Boston. Just dont expect a high-end, uffy-robe experience.
INSIDER TIP To really see the beauty of the Berkshires, visit in the
autumn and experience an authentic New England fall.
BOOK IT A two-night R&R Retreat costs from about 200
full board, including workshops and activities. +1 413 448 3180;
www.kripalu.org

Indoor pool at Anassa in
Cyprus; view of Anassa
and beach; Almyraspa's
pool; Almyra's main pool
TWO of a KIND
Relax and rejuvenate in style at one of the uniquely beautiful,
family-run Anassa or Almyra hotels in Cyprus
reaming of an idyllic island getaway? You cant
go wrong with a stay at one of Thanos Hotels
stylish, ve-star, luxurious Mediterranean
properties. The jewel in the Thanos Hotels
crown is the majestic Anassa. As a member of the
Leading Hotels of the World its elegance speaks for
itself. Situated regally on the northwestern coastline
against a backdrop of lush-green hilltops, each of the
well-appointed rooms and villas assumes panoramic
sea views. Arranged like a traditional Cypriot village,
Anassa caters for every whim imaginable chic
restaurants, tennis, swimming, cycling and even golf.
But, and perhaps most importantly, it also gives you the
space to breathe, to relax and rediscover your own
rhythm. After all, what are holidays for, if not for the
perfect place to unwind and reconnect to ourselves.
Which is where Anassas Roman-style, world-renowned
Thalassa Spa comes in. Comprised of 18 treatment
rooms, an indoor pool, sauna, steam room, gym,
a seawater exercise pool (fantastic for boosting
metabolism), thalassotherapy and they will also soon
be offering treatments from renowned British natural
Having caught the eye of Design Hotels of the World,

Almyra oozes a contemporary vibe in their uniquely
laid-back yet chic space. The service is warm, friendly
and personalised, and the hotel welcomes both couples
and families, including those with children in tow.
skincare brand, ILA. For those who like results the

hotel also offers another sought-after facial brand,
QMS. Be sure to try out their QMS Skin Cell Renewal
Treatment, which enhances the stimulation of fresh,
new skin cells resulting in that ultimate, sought-after
holiday glow. Perfect.
Another of Thanos coveted properties, which quickly
became the hippest hotel on the island, is the stylish,
189-room Almyra, situated on the Paphos shoreline.
The spa here is worth a mention: this holistic utopia has

also just welcomed the coveted skincare brand ILA.
For a real treat, immerse yourself in their signature
Chakra Wellbeing treatment, which is specially tailored
to each guest using seven blends of chakra-balancing
essential oils. For those who can drag themselves away
from the spa or indeed from their beautifully designed
rooms (this becomes nigh on impossible if youre staying
in the Kyma Suite) there are three freshwater pools
and a variety of restaurants with food concepts such as
Zen meze or Omakase. What more could you want.
For more information visit thanoshotels.com.
Or for Anassa call 00 357 26 888 000 or email
anassa@thanoshotels.com; for Almyra, contact
00 357 26 888 700 or almyra@thanoshotels.com
BAD RAGAZ, SWITZERLAND

Nestling amid mountain scenery, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz in Eastern
Switzerland is regarded as the leading wellbeing and medical health resort in
Europe. The resort consists of two hotels, the 36.5 Wellbeing & Thermal Spa,
two golf courses and an in-house casino. Thanks to the abundant healing thermal
waters, simply bathing in the pools makes you feel better but for complete bliss,
indulge in a spa treatment sourced from around the world. Also because of the
internationally renowned Medical Health Centre of the resort, a byword for
diagnostics, preventive care and rehabilitation of the highest order, this is the
ideal place to holiday while overhauling your health.
Healing Holidays can arrange a four-night stay from 6,120.00 per person sharing. This includes British
Airways ights, transfers, full-board accommodation in a comfort room, a medical consultation, treatments
and, exclusive to Traveller readers, an upgrade to the next room category and a To B. Cosmetic Kit.
SPAPICKS
From Bali to
Switzerland, via
Austria and Vietnam,
Healing Holidays
maps its favourite
spas across the world
SPA VILLAGE RESORT TEMBOK, BALI
Far from the touristic south, this tranquil sanctuary on the northeastern coast is set against a dramatic
landscape of soaring peaks and the vivid blue Bali Sea. Balis gentle spirituality and rich culture infuse
every treatment and activity: enjoy traditional healing therapies after watching the sunrise from the
peak of the islands sacred mountain. Similarly, Spa Villages philosophy of wellness encompasses every
aspect of the resort, from architecture to cuisine. To gently explore natural life practices in a holistic
environment, sign up for the School of Life, a personalised wellness and lifestyle programme offering
respite and an opportunity to reect and replenish.
FUSION MAIA RESORT, VIETNAM

Asias rst all spa-inclusive resort is a pool-laden
villa paradise that boasts down-to-earth ve-star
service and luxury. Each low-slung, open-plan
villa has a rain shower, sunken stone bathtub,
outdoor courtyard and private pool, breakfast
can be served anytime, anywhere at noon in
your room or at 3pm on the beach and all spa
treatments are included in the room rate. Beyond
the spa, exploring the nearby town of Hoi An is a
must. If youre not sure where to start, fusionistas
(resort hostesses) are on hand to help you make
your stay as perfect as possible.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay from

1,699.00 per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers,
accommodation in a pool villa, breakfast, daily spa treatments
and, exclusive to Traveller readers, a free lifestyle consultation
with one of Fusion Maias lifestyle consultants.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay from 1,360.00 per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, full-board
accommodation in a Kamar Room and, exclusive to Traveller readers, one daily 80-minute spa treatment per person.
COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE, BALI

Winner of this magazines Readers Best International
Spa award 2013, COMO Shambhala Estate is a
stunning and serene wellness retreat that specialises in
hands-on healing, fusing traditional Eastern techniques
with cutting-edge advances in holistic healthcare. As
youd expect, massages are out of this world and, like
the other therapies on offer, results-focused. Thats
because every guest has a tailor-made treatment and
activity plan, ensuring goals are reached through a
combination of treatments including facials and
hydrotherapy, activities such as yoga and hiking, and
nutritionally balanced cuisine. Upon arrival guests
meet with their key consultant who through discussion
will plan an individually tailored programme for the
duration of their stay.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay from 2,670.00

per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, half-board
accommodation in a garden room, daily activities and one
daily spa treatment.
LA RSERVE GENVE, SWITZERLAND

Discover your personalised youth-boosting solution at this spacious and incredibly
pretty spa on the shores of Lake Geneva when you enrol on their Better-Ageing
programme a collaboration between the spa and Swiss anti-ageing brand
Nescens. Highly trained therapists and medical specialists collaborate to carry out
a meticulous assessment of your health to identify physical blockages, determine
imbalances and analyse oxidative stress before delivering a totally bespoke plan,
including nutritional recommendations and targeted dietary supplements. Then
you spend the next four, seven or 14 days following their advice and enjoying the
recommended massages, healthy meals, relaxation sessions and physical activities.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night Better-Ageing Programme from 4,690.00 per person sharing.
This includes British Airways ights, transfers, full-board accommodation in a superior room, a consultation
with a doctor, a session with an osteopath, daily group classes, personal training and spa treatments.
PARKHOTEL IGLS, AUSTRIA

This award-winning health retreat, high in the sun-soaked Tyrol, is the place to come
if your tummy is troubling you as all the holistic, medically-supervised programmes are
based on Modern Mayr Medicine, where nutrition, exercise and treatments focus on
stomach health. Plus, youre bound to leave with a smaller waist. Medical director Dr
Peter Gartner believes most of our illnesses can be traced to our digestive systems and
that getting them in good working order is essential for good health. Expect thorough
diagnostic tests, eight different tummy-taming diets, bracing massages and the chance
to admire the splendid surroundings while Nordic walking.
Healing Holidays can arrange a four-night Modern Mayr Swift programme at Parkhotel Igls from 1,239.00
per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, accommodation in a standard double room, full-board on
Mayr cuisine, a medical examination, a health check up and treatments and, exclusive to Traveller readers,
a 10 percent discount when booking the Modern Mayr Swift programme (discount already included in price).
To book any of these offers or for more information contact Healing

Holidays on 020 7843 3592 or visit www.healingholidays.co.uk/condenast
THE MAYR METHOD
Ready for your close-up?

A magnied image of ngerlike villi in the small intestine,
where food is processed
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES
THE
HUNGER
GAMES
Born over a century ago, the Mayr therapy is not so much a diet, more
a way of life, with a cult-like international following. It is practised at three
main clinics in Austria, but which one is best for you and do they really
live up to their reputation? Daisy Finer puts them to the test
THE MAYR METHOD
he question is not whether to

Mayr or not to Mayr. As most
serious spa devotees already
know, the Mayr therapy is one
of the most effective cleansing
programmes out there, rooted
in the concept that good health starts
in the gut and that problems with your
digestive system lead to all manner of
irksome issues including bloating, bad
skin, chronic fatigue, allergies, obesity and
IBS many of the lifestyle issues most
GPs remain unfathomably inadequate at
treating. The Mayr cure was conceived
by pioneering Austrian doctor Franz
Xaver Mayr (18751965), who reputedly
grew up on a dairy farm examining cows
bottoms in order to pick the healthiest,
and who later on (having undergone
some rather more conventional training)
worked at a World War II military
hospital treating patients with serious
diseases including cholera and typhoid.
Here he started to notice that the best
recoveries were achieved when the
patients ate only soup. He swiftly became
a proponent of the belief that giving the
digestive system a break is one of the
fastest and most dramatic ways to help
the body to heal itself: purge the gut and
you purify the body.
The touchstones of the Mayr method
include eating stale bread (spelt equals
svelte) for breakfast and lunch, taken
with teaspoons of sheep or goats yogurt
and chewed at least 40 times (boring
and rather hard work on the jaw, but
this is where good digestion starts)
and, come supper time, slowly sipping
alkalising broths or soups. Other key
elements include abdominal massage,
performed by a doctor and sometimes
agonisingly painful, liver compresses
(made of warm hay and applied in your
bed, so your room smells like a stable)
and, crucially, the dreaded and ferocious
Epsom salts, drunk every morning in a
glass of water and swiftly resulting in
frequent bathroom visits. As obsessive as
fans are about the cure itself, so too
are they about which clinic they prefer.
So the real question is, if you want to do
the Mayr, then where?
The holy trinity of clinics (and its best
to think of them as more like hospitals
than hotels) comprises Mayr&More,
rebranded this year as the Original FX
Mayr, on the shores of Lake Wrthesee
in Austria; Viva Mayr, a ve-minute drive
away; and the Parkhotel Igls, which
opened near Innsbruck in 2009. These

clinics, each of them run individually and
competitively under the reign of different
doctors, are the worlds top runners.
espite legions of loyalists, its

always been easy to criticise
the granddaddy of them all,
the Original FX Mayr (usually
referred to simply as The Mayr). For
starters its not much to look at. It
so resembles a three-star golf hotel that
when I rst visited, in 2010, I thought
the taxi driver had gone to the wrong
place. Interiors were stuck in a Seventiesstyle time warp, with head-spinning oral
carpets, lots of horrid orange pine and
WHAT REALLY HOOKS

PEOPLE IS WHEN STAFF
SOLVE SOMETHING
THATS BEEN TROUBLING
THEM FOR YEARS
bedrooms with a blazing yellow-and-green

colour scheme hardly relaxing, and made
all the more surreal by the traditional
Austrian costumes worn by staff. It wasnt
the most prepossessing place to arrive
at on a rainy weekend. Or any weekend,
actually. Nothing much ever happened on
a Saturday or Sunday. Treatments started
after youd had a consultation with one
of the doctors on a Monday morning,
which meant that if you arrived on a
Saturday (which ight times encourage)
you were paying for little more than the
chance to wind down, or be the lonely
gure working out in the gym or ipping
through dull German magazines.
At the end of your stay the bill was
often considerably higher than expected.
Many guests were taken aback to
nd charges for treatments a doctor had
urgently prescribed in the course of a
consultation without making it clear this
would be at extra cost (sometimes as
much as 825 more). There was a great
deal of complaining about this; it felt
underhand, almost devious. So, it will be
of huge interest to Mayr regulars that all

this is about to change.
The clinic now has a new doctor in
charge, Dr Stephan Domenig, and has
just reopened after being closed since
November 2013 for a much-needed and
massive overhaul. The bedrooms have been
expanded and redecorated, some of them
made into doubles (no more lonesome
single duvets), there are new carpets,
bathrooms, sitting areas and a whole new
sauna and swimming-pool section. Hopes
are high. I dont feel ashamed any
more, says the quietly determined and
wonderfully frank Dr Domenig. For 10,
15 years or more we have not been able
to hold our heads up in comparison with
the other Mayrs. I feel the prices we asked
people to pay were unfair, to be honest,
when you looked at the rooms. When we
reopen everything will be different. Now
clients will get value for money.
Along with this face-lift, treatment
programmes have been simplied so it
will be clearer what is included and what
isnt. Theres also, at last, an Original FX
Mayr book (something Viva Mayr did
aeons ago). The Alkaline Cure, a 14-day
diet and anti-ageing plan, covers the
importance of maintaining an alkaline
diet, such as eating almonds (the least
acidic nut), and lamb and sheeps cheese
rather than beef and Cheddar. It is
also going to offer genetic diagnostic
testing, which checks your blood for 200
markers, from which they can get a
picture of what sort of diet and exercise
you should you take. Genetic diagnostics
is the future, says Dr Domenig. At the
moment we have to charge around 8,270
for this testing, and the blood and saliva
tests need to be done two months before
you arrive. The price will undoubtedly
come down in years to come but its
best to attack now.
Before you panic that your pair of
Mayr slippers are being transformed into
futuristic stilettos, fans will also be relieved
to be hear the doctor say that Despite
all the updates, we have tried to maintain
the old cosy and warm atmosphere of a
wooden house. And herein lies the appeal
of the place. Notwithstanding its faults, it
has always been loved for its no-nonsense,
boarding-school atmosphere. There is
something gloriously unthreatening
about the vibe. Everybody is in it together
from leaders of industry playing gin
rummy and stressed-out lawyers talking
about Yorkshire puddings, to brides
Clockwise from
top: Sun sets on
the lush Spa
Garden;
picturesque bridge
to the Spa
Entrance; tranquil
Treatment Room
THAI odyssey
Restorative retreats dont come more specialist, sumptuous and
VSHFWDFXODULQVHWWLQJWKDQWKRVH\RXOOQGLQ7KDLODQG7DNHDKROLVWLF
WULSDURXQGWKHFRXQWU\WRH[SHULHQFHWKHQHDUWRI7KDLFRVVHWLQJ
Chiang Mai, Phuket and Pattaya and is the ultimate
Thai Lanna style experience. Its obvious here why the
Thais are so gifted in massage and spa therapy; the
staff are gracious and gentle. Try the Voyage of Golden
Lanna signature massage which uses oils infused with
pure gold.
Divana Spa in Bangkok is an eco day spa committed
to using organic, locally-sourced materials and oils such
as Plai. Try the Organic Golden Silk Royal Pampering
Experience that uses Thai golden silk to nourish skin
and hair.
he glorious sensation of warm oil drizzling over

your skin, subtle scent of exotic frangipani and
faint sound of tropical birdsong, all set against
the lapping of aquamarine waters. And relax
Spa treatments are elevated to sublime sensory heights
when theyre in far-ung destinations. Who wouldnt
take an ocean-front cabana hands down over a clinical
treatment room.
In Thailand, massage is almost part of the culture.

The Wat Pho School of Thai Massage is the
birthplace of the traditional Thai style, which uses
acupressure on sen or meridian lines of the body
combined with muscle stretching to stimulate energy
ow. Wat Pho is set in a majestic temple complex and
inside you can read ancient tablets inscribed with Thai
massage techniques.
Continue your journey at one of the boutique day
spas. The Oasis Spa has branches in Bangkok,
Thailands glut of exceptional international hotels all

offer world-class spa experiences. In Bangkok, both the
Chi Spa at the Shangri-La and Oriental Spa at
the Mandarin Oriental will tempt discerning
travellers. While at the Four Seasons Resort in
Chiang Mai the focus is on organic Thai herbs. The
Royal Samunprai treatment uses silk poultices lled
with warmed herbs to rejuvenate weary limbs.
For total seclusion and otherworldly luxury choose
The Barai, Hua Hin. This collection of eight
exclusive residential spa suites boasts private butler
service. At Barai Spa, treatments centre around earth,
re, air and water and bespoke programmes are
tailored to your individual needs.
Translating as lotus realm, a Thai symbol for spiritual
human growth, Kamalaya Koh Samui is more of a
holistic spa resort. Book in for the Asian Bliss
Treatment, part of the Stress and Burnout Wellness
programme if youre feeling the effects of fast-living.
Dont be daunted by Chiva Soms extreme holistic

approach. This accolade-ridden Hua Hin based health
resort features one of the most impressive range of
detox treatments youll nd worldwide. But, ranging
from the Art of Detox through to Spa Pampering
options you can dial up the decadence or health angle
depending on what you fancy.
For more spa ideas and essential facts,
plus rst-hand reviews and accounts of Thai
spas visit and like Thailand Reunited on
Facebook. Featuring exclusive prizes and the
chance to post your own Thai spa photos,
videos and stories, its one to bookmark preand post-trip.
THE MAYR METHOD

desperate to lose pounds and actors
agents who cant sleep. And no one
could ever feel under-dressed: towelling
robes or tracksuit bottoms at meal
times are the norm. Another huge
attraction, lacking at the other clinics,
are country walks straight from of the
door, something most guests make a
morning routine of. Its an Alpine vision,
crunching through woods and jumping
over streams. It almost makes up for the
fact that in order to swim in the lake you
have to cross a busy road.
But, of course, what really hooks people
is when the staff solve something thats
been troubling them for ages, sometimes
years. One woman I met was delighted to
have nally been given a diagnosis of a
liver infection after not being able to shed
even a pound despite the regime. Six
doctors in the UK had failed to discover it.
Lets hope with so many changes afoot
some of the previous criticisms can nally
be laid to rest and the Original FX Mayr
can regain its spot at the top of the ladder.
y far the most glamorous of

all the clinics is the Viva Mayr.
Although it looks like a motel,
it is set smack bang on the
sparkling lake and denitely has the
edge when it comes to views. When the
weather is ne, meals are taken outside
on wicker armchairs, and swimmers
jump off little wooden pontoons into
the water. In terms of comfort theres no

contest. Viva is a shiny, polished spaceship.
If you care about your surroundings, this
is the one to plump for. And it says a lot
that despite these high standards, this
year is all change for Viva too. The inside
of the building sharp lines and walls of
glass perfectly in sync with the surgeonstandard spotless environs is being
smartened up with a swish new medical
department and reception area. Until the
end of the year, when work is completed,
the whole operation has upped sticks to
WEIGHT LOSS HERE

IS INEVITABLE. ONE
REGULAR ALWAYS
BRINGS A SMALLER SIZE
OF TROUSERS WITH HIM
a satellite clinic at the My Lake Hotel
& Spa, on the other side of the lake. So it
might be worth delaying your stay.
The original building is not everybodys
cup of tea, but it has an architectural
weight that in my mind was borderline
Mies van der Rohe. I liked it immensely,
and the bedrooms are simple, chic and

mind-clearingly fresh. All this lends an
uplifting air to the atmosphere. The
gym is vast and hi-tech if you want to
exercise hard be sure to ask for a menu
that includes solid food (were talking
tiny portions of protein with vegetables.
Are you on real food? people will ask
jealously). Theres a lovely herbal tea
station which guests gather around,
happily complaining about their ailments
(allergies so bad they cant leave the
house, arthritis so crippling the weight
of a duvet is painful) and you cant help
but join in the chat.
Aside from the interiors and the
energy of the place, the key difference
from the Original FX Mayr is Vivas
comprehensive emphasis on education.
The rules are drummed home (at
Original FX you get the feeling they
assume you know a lot already, perhaps
because of the number of repeat guests).
Theres a very well-written Viva Mayr
book, which you can buy on Amazon.
A British journalist, Helena Frith Powell,
helped write it, which means there are
none of the terminology issues often
found in medi-spa literature. There
are also evening lectures, so interesting
I recorded them on my iPhone. Head
honcho Dr Harald Stossier is gentle,
kind and incredibly knowledgeable; he is
particularly clued up on allergies and
histamine, and I thought it was great
ORIGINAL FX MAYR
VIVA MAYR
A session with osteo Wolfgang, who is

so serious he barely talks. With his
methodical, scientic approach hes
like John Malkovich at his most criminal,
and his ruthless bone cracking will
untie your computer-posture knots
Nasal reexology, which is all the rage.

Youll suddenly spot a little gang of
dressing-gown-clad guests with cotton
buds stuck up their noses. What on
earth are they doing? Clearing sinuses,
decongesting, melting facial tension
Kneipping .Who would have thought

that the communal pools would be
where it all happens? Guests gather
here at least once a day, dipping their
legs in hot and then freezing cold water
like Hackney ponies, gossiping about
their bowel movements
BE WARNED
Forget about the pampering beauty

treatments. They are available using
Organic Pharmacy products but in
basic surroundings no uffy towels,
music, low lights and therapists
have been known to have hands that
smell of cigarettes
The weak-willed should perhaps be

aware that Viva is surrounded
by temptation, with cafs, bakeries
and pizzerias on the doorstep
make sure you dont wander too far
Theres no real garden to speak of

(just a patch of lawn for sunbeds and
some herb beds) and no lake to swim
in, plus the property is bang in the
middle of a village with roads around it
so dont expect Alpine perfection
HEALTHY
HIGH
In winter, the ice-skating on the lake

over the road is like a scene straight
out of a Breugel painting
Theres a swanky cookery school with

excellent and informative sessions
where you can learn how to make
pumpkin-seed bread and soft goats
cheese herbal spread
This is the only set-up with a properly

orchestrated mini-detox organised over
four nights and three days, but it means
you leave just as the side-effects
(sluggishness, headaches, tears,
craziness) are at their height
SIGN UP FOR
PARKHOTEL IGLS
T RAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE
PANGKOR LAUT RESORT

As the only resort on the privately owned island of
Pangkor Laut, three miles off Malaysias west coast,
Pangkor Laut Resort is undoubtedly exclusive. Set in
two-million-year-old rainforest, it overlooks sweeping
sandy bays and emerald waters. Dining options are
extensive and private dining experiences include having
traditional Japanese food in an open-air pavilion or a
barbecue on Emerald Bay beach, renowned as one of
the worlds most beautiful. The big draw is the awardwinning agship of the luxury Spa Village brand,
Spa Village Pangkor Laut, a four-acre haven offering
treatments inspired by Asian healing therapies. Be sure
to arrive early to enjoy the signature 45-minute Bath
House Ritual, an absolute must-try complimentary
pre-treatment.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay at Pangkor Laut Resort

from 1,545.00 per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers,
accommodation in a Hill Villa, breakfast, one complimentary Sunset
Cruise per person per stay and, exclusive to Traveller readers,
one complimentary 80-minute spa treatment per person per stay.
MALAY
MAGIC
Malaysia is a pampering
paradise, with idyllic spas
set in spectacular surroundings.
Let Healing Holidays help you
unlock its secrets
TANJONG JARA RESORT

Designed to rreect
eect the elegance
elegance and grandeur
grandeur of 17th Century
Century
Malayy palaces
Mala
palaces,, this tranquil resort
resort on the unspoiled east coast is
elcoming thanks to staf
stafff who
who em
embody
body
body Malaysian
Malaysian
majestic yyet w
welcoming
embod
Exploree teeming coral rreefs
eefs at
at Tenggol
T
enggol
warmth
war
mth and hospitality
hospitality.. Explor
Teng
enggol
Tanjong
Island, rrelax
elax aatt Spa Village
Village T
which
offers
treatments
anjong Jara,
Jara, w
whic
hic
hich
h of
offer
fers
fers tr
trea
ea
eatments
tments
based on traditional Mala
Malayy healing methods
methods,, or discover
discovvver
disco
er the
delights of Malay
Malay cultur
culturee with cooking classes and guided
excursions.
infor
informal;
ormal;
or
favourite
excur
cursions.. Dining is inf
cur
mal; our fav
fa
vourite
ourite restaurant,
restaurant, Di Atas
u Master
Masterss experts
experts in
in local
Sungei, has no menu.
menu. Instead, Men
Menu
cuisine create
create
te a menu
menu using the fr
freshest
eshest products.
product
product
oducts.
oductss
Healing Holidays can arrange

arrange a seven-night stay at TTanjong
anjong Jara Resor
Resortt from
1,189.00 per person sharing. This includes ights, transfers, accomm
accommodation
odation
in a Bumbung Room, breakfast, two complimentary
complimentary activities per perso
personn per
stay and, exclusive to TTraveller
raveller readers, one complimentar
complimentaryy 80
80-minute
-minute spa
treatment per person per stay
stay.
GAYA ISLAND RESORT

A gorgeously intimate retreat, just off the coast of Borneo in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine
Park, a natural conservation area. Surrounding the resort are coral reefs inhabited by schools
of tropical sh a snorkelling paradise best visited with the resident marine biologist.
On land, the view is just as impressive; ancient rainforest and tropical mangrove encircle
the resorts villas and the dramatic silhouette of Mount Kinabalu can be seen in the distance.
Be sure to check out Spa Village Gaya Island, which uses native ingredients in transformative
treatments inspired by cultural healing traditions of the areas indigenous people.
Healing Holidays can arrange a seven-night stay at Gaya Island Resort from 1,390.00 per person sharing.
This includes ights, transfers, accommodation in a Bayu Villa, breakfast, one complimentary Sunset Cruise per
person per stay and, exclusive to Traveller readers, one complimentary 80-minute spa treatment per person per stay.
To book, call Healing Holidays on 020 7843 3592

or visit healingholidays.co.uk/condenast
THE MAYR METHOD

that his gorgeous wife Christine also
works as a doctor here (women are
scarce on the Mayr scene). She provides
emotional support, when needed, to
those who nd their detox brings
psychological issues to the surface, as
well as being a homeopath and good on
feminine-health issues, such as hormonal
changes and infertility.
he strategies that distinguish

Viva are the daily consumption of
linseed oil (you get little pots of it
with each meal), high in Omega-3
which helps boost concentration and
energy levels; the mantra no raw after
four; and the idea of skipping supper, or
eating little and early. Cancel dinner,
says Dr Stossier, its the secret to a long
life. He also advocates one hour a day to
yourself, as well as one day a week, and
four weeks a year. So while weight loss
is inevitable (one regular always brings a
smaller size of trousers for when he
leaves), Viva is more about stamping out
bad habits. Of all the Mayrs, I enjoyed
Viva the most. The gardens and the lake
swung it for me, along with the personal
care, and I also love the fact that you can
see the doctors back in London every
couple of months they hold appointments
on Harley Street or at the Grace Belgravia
day spa, so you can clock in and chart
your progress. New patients can pop in
for a 60-minute consultation (300)
before visiting the clinic, or go there
regularly if they cant make it abroad.
Some women bring their husbands and
children along too what a brilliant way
to spread the word.
nd so to the last of the Mayr

trio. When it launched ve years
ago, light and bright after a multimillion-pound refurbishment,
Parkhotel Igls billed itself as the nextgeneration cure. It wasnt so much about
the setting or the interiors, although the
bedrooms (just 51 of them) are perhaps
the cosiest. What set Parkhotel apart
was its more modern approach to the
food, with eight different diets that steered
away from total starvation theres a
danger of muscle wastage if you diet
too severely and quickly and which
somehow felt less of a punishment and
more realistic to continue with back
home. You werent so shattered you felt
like crying. And you could exercise. This
progressive, totally tailormade approach,
which really questions what you want

out of your stay and your health, lends
an intimate, gently-does-it approach;
none of that one-size-ts-all brutality.
The new head of the medical department,
Dr Peter Gartner, works hard to achieve
this balance. Yes, you still take the Epsom
salts; but if youre feeling ravenous
after your allocated quota at mealtimes
you are allowed to ask for more and
wont be left hungry. At the other Mayrs
I really missed eating cooked vegetables,
here there were lots of them. And the
joy of being allowed ravioli made from
spelt on a bed of spinach for lunch
(and it being delicious, too) was heartwarming, and had the bonus of giving
me enough of an energy boost to swim
laps in the indoor innity pool or enjoy
personal training sessions with Michael
in the gym, with its mega mountain
YOU NEED TO SLOW

DOWN IN ORDER TO
SPEED UP. MOST OF
US EAT TOO FAST, TOO
MUCH AND TOO LATE
views. If youre feeling claustrophobic,

you can head out to the forests for Nordic
walking with Alice (who also teaches the
yoga, and guided relaxation).
For no obvious reason, Parkhotel is
also probably the best advert for the cure.
It certainly has the largest quota of tanned,
toned and slim staff. Guess how old she is?
someone asked me of Dr Brigitte SchirmerFereberger, a specialist in homeopathy and
applied kinesiology (great for unearthing
food intolerances). Forty-ve, I guess.
Sixty. She lives the Mayr life. Theres no
better example than that.
o, which mayr is for you? To

simplify, if you need the comest
surroundings Viva is the trump
card; if you want somewhere
old-school thats about tough love the
Original FX Mayr will no doubt suit, and
if you want to walk the tightrope between
the two and still feel fantastic then

Parkhotel rises to the top.
One thing remains true, whichever
clinic you plump for, despite the hardships
(hunger, crashing headaches, weepy
lethargy, pimple outbreaks and low moods),
the Mayr method works. The paradox is
that you need to slow down in order to
speed up. And this is the essential lesson.
Most of us eat too fast, too much, too late,
too often and when we are too stressed.
The Mayr method is all about taking
things down a notch, becoming in tune
with what your body needs. Much as you
will hear people talking about their
dramatic slimming (seven pounds in seven
days, and the fatter you are the more you
lose), all three exponents agree its about
health and not weight loss, and ideally
prevention not treatment.
Nothing makes you more mindful,
for the long term, about what you put
in your body than fasting, or eating tiny
morsels. You realise how little fuel we
really require, how unnecessary afternoon
sugar hits are, and how damaging they
are in the long run, not just to your
waistline. And when you do start to eat
normally, your palate comes back with a
vengeance. You cant believe how articial
some things taste. After completing the
programme, I came back armed with
empowering information, a new-found
inner energy and eyes that sparkled.
The key is not to treat the clinics like
fat farms, where you go to shift fugitive
ab only to return home to your normal
naughty ways. Instead, you should see
your stay as a stepping stone to a
new, healthy, conscious you. Though one
has to admit that losing almost as much
weight as your EasyJet hand luggage
does make it seem all worthwhile.
360 Travel (+44 20 7437 3601; www.360
travel.co.uk) offers seven nights at
Original FX Mayr from 2,476 in a single
room full board, including consultations,
abdominal treatments, massages and
detox wraps (but excluding ights).
Healing Holidays (+44 20 7843 3592; www.
healingholidays.co.uk/condenast) offers
seven nights at Viva Mayr from 1,459
in a single room full board, including
herbal infusions and daily supporting
programme; and seven nights at Parkhotel
Igls from 1,715 in a single room full
board, with medical check, hydrotherapy
treatments and group training. Both
prices include ights and transfers
SPA
in the
city
Bulgari proves the last word on holistic health and beauty at its London spa gem.
Enjoy an unparalleled spa experience at the height of contemporary
Italian luxury, and now you can invite your friends too
shimmering green and gold mosaic tiles, a vitality
pool, steam, sauna and ice fountains, a relaxation
room and yoga studio. There are also 11 treatment
rooms, a Neville Hair Salon and a fully equipped
gymnasium with personal training by Bodyism.
Bodyism, for the uninitiated, specialise in creating
long, lean bodies. At the Bulgari Spa, both members
and non-members can access the Bodyism Oracle to
receive a personalised programme to promote better
health, increased energy and serenity.
anti-ageing
The Bodyism team under the guidance of celebrity
personal trainer, James Duigan, whose protges
include Lara Stone, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and
David Gandy will access problem areas that may
include nutrient deciencies, sleep problems and stress,
providing ongoing solutions.
he luxurious Bulgari Spa is part of the Bulgari
Hotel & Residences, London, and the epitome
of decadent downtime in the city. Expect the
highest quality of contemporary Italian design
in 2,000 square-metres of space, over two beautifully
crafted oors, in the heart of Knightsbridge.
italian style
The award-winning facilities in which to relax and
revive include a 25-metre swimming pool lined with
Guests of the hotel have full access to the spa but there
are also membership options for non-guests. Day spa
programmes are available from Monday to Friday
when visitors can also enjoy the rst class facilities.
A limited number of exclusive individual, joint or
overseas memberships also allow access to Bulgari Spa
and include further additional privileges. All visitors
to the spa can enjoy the benets of Swiss Perfection
Cellular Skin Care. Bulgari is the only spa in London
to offer this product, which features a signature
The pool at Bulgari

ingredient from the root of the Iris
germanica plant and leads the eld in Spa in London; The
hotel exterior in
anti-ageing rejuvenation.
To enquire about membership

at Bulgari Spa call 00 44 (0)20
7151 1055 or email spa-london@
bulgarihotels.com
Knightsbridge;
James Duigan;
Swiss Perfection
product range
Clockwise from this

image: Sunrise yoga at
Canyon Ranch in Tucson;
Exterior of Canyon
Ranch in Lenox; Ocean
Terrace at Canyon Ranch
in Miami; Suite at
Canyon Ranch in Miami;
Main drive at Canyon
Ranch in Tucson; Yoga at
Canyon Ranch in Tucson
f youre looking to visit a top health and wellness

haven in the USA, narrow down your search to
three destinations the Canyon Ranch properties in
either Tucson, Arizona, in Lenox, Massachusetts or
in Miami, Florida offer a personal journey with a
uniquely American avour which conrms that
Canyon Ranch, the pioneer of the health and tness
revolution, continues to lead the way in wellness.
Since it opened its doors in 1979, Canyon Ranch
has become an icon in the wellness world, offering
inspiring experiences that unite every element of a
healthy lifestyle to rejuvenate mind, body and spirit.
This remarkable achievement is testament to the vision
of its founders, Mel and Enid Zuckerman, whose
original mission to inspire people to commit to healthy
living, continues to underpin values at Canyon Ranch.
The ethos is simple: living well through tness, good
nutrition, stress management and integrative wellness
means a longer, more joyful and healthier life.
The Canyon Ranch wellness team has an incredible
amount of knowledge at their ngertips, and the
gifted physicians, therapists, dieticians, personal
trainers and practitioners are always on hand to
guide and inspire positive everyday lifestyle choices.
This all-encompassing and empowering approach to
attaining optimal health is combined into cutting-edge
programmes designed to enable guests to reach their
individual health goals in blissful surroundings.
Each of the properties offers a distinct take on the
quintessential American backdrop: the original
Canyon Ranch health resort in Tucson is the perfect
place in which to enjoy the rugged beauty and
temperate weather of southern Arizona. Set in the
lush Sonoran Desert, surrounded by scenic mountains
and beautiful canyons, it provides a powerful and
AMERICAN WAY
For an inspirational and transformational healthy holiday in
America, book into a Canyon Ranch property with Healing Holidays
energising environment for adventure and personal

discovery. With close to 350 sunny days a year, hiking,
biking, bird watching, and sunbathing are possible all
year, as is stargazing the sweeping skies and clear
weather make it an astronomers delight.
At Canyon Ranch in Tucson, the choice of more than
40 tness classes each day ensures every tness practice
is on offer. Unhurried consultations with top wellness
experts, nutritious cuisine (and lessons on how to cook
it at home), and incredible body treatments all work in
harmony to deliver a truly integrated experience. If
you have a week, sign up for the Life Enhancement
Programme, an exhilarating journey to wellness hosted
in the self-contained Life Enhancement Centre.
Like its sister property, Canyon Ranch in Lenox is an
all-inclusive health resort and luxury spa that offers
indoor pleasures think pampering spa treatments
and pilates and outdoor activities, from zip wires to
snowshoeing in winter. Set in an area renowned for its
natural beauty, the estate is surrounded by verdant
forests and crisp mountain vistas. Miles of walking,
hiking, biking and cross-country skiing include routes
along the Appalachian Trail, via spectacular rivers,
meadows and lakes, giving guests the opportunity to
absorb the areas extraordinary wildlife and fascinating

history. A blend of the most effective Western and
Eastern health practices is available at the resorts
Integrative Health Centre, where medical and holistic
preventative care help establish healthy habits for life.
To fast track onto a path to optimal wellness, book
on to the ve-day Jumpstart to a Healthier Life
programme and begin your journey with a
supportive group of guests and experts.
For those who prefer to be near the sea, Canyon Ranch
Hotel & Spa in Miami Beach offers inspiring healthy
living in a luxury oceanfront guesthouse plus easy
access to everything Miami and South Beach has to
offer. Located on fashionable Collins Avenue
overlooking an immaculate white sandy beach, this
spectacular all-suite boutique hotel combines the
exibility of la carte hotel services with Canyon
Ranchs health expertise. Transform your body on the
pristine beach or in the world-class gym, overhaul your
mind with the help of a specialist, address a health
concern through conventional or alternative therapies
or pamper yourself in the extensive spa Floridas
large wellness facility.
Every Canyon Ranch property offers nutritionally
balanced gourmet food, a fantastic range of daily
wellness activities, indulgent spa services and the
opportunity to meet with a range of integrated health
experts in a life-enhancing environment. Whichever
property and programme you choose, youll soon
realise that Canyon Ranch is more than a place its a
state of mind and a way of life. Expect to check out
feeling healthier, happier and more vibrant.
YOU'LL SOON REALISE THAT CANYON RANCH IS MORE THAN

A PLACE IT'S A STATE OF MIND AND A WAY OF LIFE
For exclusive Canyon Ranch offers and to book,

contact Healing Holidays on 020 7843 3592 or
visit healingholidays.co.uk/condenast
SPECIAL OFFERS
Seven nights at Canyon Ranch Tucson
costs from 4,155.00 per person
sharing, including ights, transfers, fullboard, accommodation, activities, daily
classes and use of all facilities.
Seven nights at Canyon Ranch Lenox
costs from 4,550.00 per person
sharing, including ights, full-board,
accommodation, activities, daily classes
and use of all facilities.
Seven nights at Canyon Ranch
Miami costs from 1,655.00 per
person sharing, including ights,
accommodation, access to the tness
centre, thermal cabin and relaxation
area, plus a daily 10 spa credit.
SUPER
N AT U R A L S
THESE THERAPEUTIC WIZARDS
AROUND THE WORLD HAVE A MAGIC
TOUCH THAT CAN WORK WONDERS.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY JONNY HANNAH
NEW YORK
ABDI ASSADI
ACUPUNCTURIST
Its no surprise that Abdi Assadi comes across

as so international and erudite: born in Iran,
he grew up in Africa and Asia before becoming
one of New Yorks and the worlds top
acupuncturists. You could come to him with
insomnia or shoulder pain, but you leave with
self-knowledge: Assadis intuitive pre-treatment
talk might reveal a spiritual rather than physical trigger. In this instance,
he will recommend a programme of meditation and suggest new
ways of thinking to reduce anxiety and deal with problems effectively.
This isnt to say he is New Agey tales of motorbiking in the Sahara
and East Africa reveal hints of the alpha male within. The needles
themselves dont feel uncomfortable; in fact, after an hour under
a heat lamp, dozing to the sounds of classical music or a rainstorm, it
is hard to drag yourself away from this cocoon in the Flatiron district of
Manhattan. Assadi has attracted a cult following, from ashtanga master
Eddie Stern to fashion insiders such as Norma Kamali and musicians
including Sting and Sheryl Crow, which means there is a waiting list and
youll need to sign up far in advance of making the pilgrimage across the
Atlantic. Treatments from about 165; www.abdiassadi.com
SANTIAGO
ANGELICA LAMARCA
PILATES INSTRUCTOR
Natalie Portman lookalike Lamarca, known as

Keka, has a soft but surprisingly stern voice and
a gure that makes you want whatever shes
just ordered. Her secret? Keep moving, keep
training and keep taking classes from other
instructors. That doesnt only mean Pilates:
Lamarca practises yoga with her husband, cycles
everywhere and is trained in Gyrotonic; shes also an ambassador
for Adidas in Chile. Theres an edge to her style think Catwoman
with a dash of rock chick and she can normally be found teaching in
leopard-print leggings, with her hair pulled into a bun. Trained at
TriPilates in New York, last year she opened The Place, her studio in
the Chilean capital, and the bold and beautiful have come ocking to
be pushed to their limits. Her enthusiasm and, quite frankly, her
forcefulness will get you doing more crunches than you thought
physically possible, and youll leave her class energised, exhausted and
feeling like you can do it, whatever it may be. Private sessions from
about 70; www.facebook.com/theplacepilates
MELBOURNE
MICHELLE MACEWAN
SHAMAN
The word shaman can conjure images of ancient

rituals, medicine men and maybe even a spot of
voodoo, but shamanism has a much less hocuspocus tenet at its core: the belief that we are all part
of nature and therefore connected. MacEwan, of
Irish descent, practises a form of traditional Celtic
shamanism in workshops and one-to-one sessions.
For her, the process is a means of rejoining the original spiritual path, so
there are no hallucinogens or extreme surroundings. Instead, she works
in calm rooms, leading her clients on a process of exploration and asking
them to describe the landscape of their imagination. They meet with
ancestors, identify their power animal, and explore the outer reaches of
the mind. It may sound strange, but after just one session things do
become clearer. She can guide you at one of her popular programmes
all over the world, or on Skype. www.micheleemacewan.com.au
HAWAII
REBECCA GOFF
AQUACRANIAL THERAPIST
Uprooting urbanites from their concrete jungles
and reconnecting them with nature is always a huge
priority on the wellness scene. The ultimate method
may be aquacranial therapy, pioneered by Rebecca
Goff. Her mix of osteopathic-based craniosacral
manipulation, emotional release work, meridian
balancing and yogic stretches all done while
oating in the Pacic Ocean, off the coast of Maui decompresses the
spine and relieves tension; its especially successful for realigning pregnant
womens pelvises in preparation for birth. Come during the whale season
and Goff will combine her techniques with the sonic vibrations of marine
mammals, felt from miles away. It has to be one of the most effective and
non-invasive ways of eliminating physical stress. Expect to cry afterwards.
Stay at the Four Seasons Resort Maui and you can book a session via the
hotel spa. Treatments from about 180; www.aquacranial.com
CAPE TOWN
ROBYN LOTZ
KINESIOLOGIST
There are times when the stresses of life become

too much and you just want to stop the world and
get off. Cue Robyn Lotz, a Cape Town-based
kinesiologist who believes that by reading the
body, you can unlock any physical and/or mental
disturbances. Shell quiz you about sleeping,
drinking and exercise, jotting down responses on
a form that soon becomes cluttered with oblique references to vertebrae
and energy levels. A series of tests such as the strength of your grip
help her assess the health of your nervous system. She may even balance
glass vials of liquids on different parts of your body to check for allergies.
And if you have an imbalance, shell ask you to hold a specic supplement
while she manipulates your arm. If your response becomes stronger,
your body has told you what it needs. An inspiring, intuitive teacher,
Lotz gets results. From about 30; +27 741 992 572
NEW YORK
ALETA ST JAMES
ENERGY HEALER
Featured in everything from the pages of the New

York Times to CNN news reports, Aleta St James
is the woman behind the sustained sanity of many
successful business moguls and celebrities.
The emotional healer and best-selling author has
a star-studded following and a packed schedule
at her Midtown practice, but remains very
grounded. Described as the Indiana Jones of the Soul, St James endured
her own struggles as an aspiring stage actress in the 1970s, which took
her on a journey of self-discovery. Whilst globe-trotting, she unearthed
her psychic gift and honed her healing techniques. In your hands-on
private session (or over the phone if you cant get to New York), St James
uses a combination of repressed-memory recovery, touch therapy,
meditations and breathing exercises to clear bad energy and banish
negative thoughts. St James gave birth to the rst of her four children at
the age of 50, so her dynamism speaks for itself. About 180 for the rst
session, then about 150 an hour; www.aletastjames.com
SYDNEY
SHARON MCGLINCHEY
FACIALIST
Maggie Gyllenhaal and Poppy Delevingne may be

among her fans, but namedropping is the last thing
youll get from this lass from the North of England,
who brims with humour, warmth and wellbeing
knowledge. McGlinchey developed her own skincare
range after a client had a severe petrochemical
reaction to a product bought in another salon,
and her brand, MV Skincare, is now one of the worlds best-respected
organic lines, with rave reviews from the likes of Emma Watson and Rosie
Huntington-Whiteley. As a therapist, she has stayed true to her roots, and
her powerful MV Radiance Facial blends reiki, craniosacral therapy and
a technique used by osteopaths and chiropractors to release tension
within the fascia surrounding our muscles. Slow, rhythmical massage
takes clients into a very deep state of relaxation, noticeably lifting facial
contours, and her 100-per-cent organic products and custom-blended
masks leave skin soft, glossy and supple. McGlinchey practises in New
South Wales, but once or twice a year she can be found at acupuncturist
Lida Ahmadys rooms in New York or at The Rubens at the Palace hotel
in London. From about 60 for 60 minutes; www.mvskincare.co.uk
TUSCANY
YAMUNA ZAKE
BODY HEALER
Lithe and vital, with a dancers suppleness and

long, owing hair, Zake epitomises what it means
to be ageless (its hard to believe shes in her
late 50s). A yogi rst and foremost, she created
the Yamuna Body Rolling system over 30 years ago
when her left hip popped after the birth of
her daughter. Osteopathy and other therapies
didnt help, so she tried self-massage using different-sized balls, as well
as yogic postures and breathing exercises. Zakes hypnotic and
anatomically precise instruction is empowering. It teaches you to listen
to your body and detect the site of the tension, then manage it yourself.
After a couple of sessions, when the rolling becomes smoother, smaller
balls are used to awaken the tiniest muscles and unlock joints you didnt
realise needed work. The result is a limber body and a wonderful state of
From left to right: Oligoanne

serum, 96, Phytarosa serum,
96, 100% Active serum,
119, Precious serum, 96,
Tissue Serum, 96
Anne Semonin has

made its name as a
front runner on the
beauty scene, thanks
to its reputation for
radical results
and made-tomeasure products
and regimes
AMAZING FACE
Pallid, pasty, peaky skin, be gone! Take your beauty regime up a notch
for a radiant complexion with a little help from French skincare brand, Anne Semonin
kin hates winter. Fact. Darting between subzero temperatures outside and sweltering
central heating inside is enough to make
anyone's face feel dry enough to fall off. But,
come rain or shine, we have unearthed the secret to
healthy, supremely soft, radiant skin Anne Semonin.
After almost 30 years on the beauty scene, the French
brand has firmly made its name as a front runner,
thanks to its reputation for radical results and madeto-measure products and regimes. And the brands
popularity is no secret. Hotel spas across the country
(including Langdale in the Lake District and Spa

Verta in London) are filled to the brim with Anne
Semonin essentials and treatments. Further afield
Sani Resort in Greece and the resorts of Huvafen
Fushi and Niyama in the Maldives, offer the full
range of Anne Semonin made-to-measure beauty
therapies. It is also a firm favourite with Liberty of
London, where it is available online (liberty.co.uk).
For further information on spa locations,
visit annesemonin.com
S K I N D E E P T H R E E L AY E R S TO CA R E F O R
LAYER 1: Creams protect and moisturise the
top layer of skin a dollop of Anne Semonins
Dheanne Cream (119) every morning is just
the ticket.
LAYER 2: Try Anne Semonins 100
percent Active Serum (119) to feed and
repair the middle layer of your skin.

LAYER 3: Detoxify the deepest layer each
evening with something more refreshing
and penetrative. We love Anne Semonins
Firming Intensive Complex (122)
featuring essential oils.
Above: Express
Radiance ice cubes for
eyes, 44. Left:
Express Radiance
ice cubes for
face, 48;
to boost your
complexion
equilibrium. Body Rolling is still an insider secret among yogis, bodyworkers

and dancers, but word is spreading through classes at Zakes West Village
studio in New York, and retreats such as the one at Enrico Marone
Cinzanos Casa Bianca in Tuscany this summer. About 240 for a private
class with Zake, or 60 with another instructor; www.yamunabodyrolling.com
PYRENEES
MANEX IBAR
SHAMAN
This former Sony executive turned shaman

combines science and mysticism for powerful
readings and healing work. Most intensive is his
summer-solstice camping retreat in the Basque
Pyrenees, where you trek out into the mountains for
what he calls a Vision Quest, an uncomfortable but
exhilarating reboot with fasting, hallucinations via
plant infusions, and sweat lodges. If you dont have 10 days to spend in
the wilderness, Ibar does private three-hour sessions at home, taking you
on a journey into your life past, present and future using drums,
meditation, Bach ower essences, essential oils and hands-on healing.
Ibar sees clients in the UK, the USA, France and Belgium, but make your
booking quickly. His roster of titans of industry and A-list athletes is
ever-growing. From 200; http://manexibar.com
HONG KONG
CHRISTINA PAUL
KINESIOLOGIST
On the ninth oor of a high-rise block in the

bustling Central district is a bright, airy haven
where ultra-calm kinesiologist Christina Paul treats
stress-ridden Hong Kong nanciers and society ladies
in the know. Paul monitors muscle contractions and
uses acupressure on energy points to access the
deeper recesses of physical symptoms from chronic
fatigue to a persistent shoulder pain. A trained aromatherapist, she also
weaves in the powerful benets of olfactory memories to push underlying
physical shifts further, with a remedial massage for an instant satisfaction
factor. As with most gifted therapists, the magic happens after youve left
her treatment rooms and begin to feel your body opening up to the changes
shes initiated. Paul will also provide you with a long-term nutritional plan.
Treatments from about 80 for 75 minutes; www.kineseologyasia.com
NEW YORK
CHRISTINE CHIN
FACIALIST
Chin isnt known as mean Christine for nothing.

The facialist has been known to cut off celebrities
for not showing up for appointments, and she will
tell you all the ugly truths about your skin (Your
face looks like you are in your early 30s, but your
chest is a disaster. Are you even using sunscreen?).
This seemingly brutal approach belies a skill that is
hard to nd in the facialist world: Chin makes your skin look and feel as
fresh as a babys, and Rachel Weisz, Gisele Bndchen and JLo are all
testament to her talents. She has been known to tend to the dermis for
up to ve hours, with a mix of needles and microdermabrasion. While
this process doesnt necessarily feel good, the effects glowing skin,
signicantly reduced lines last for up to six months. The cost may seem
high, but it feels justied by the compliments youll receive afterwards.
Treatments from about 300; www.christinechin.com
MEXICO
BARBARA VERROCHI
AND KRISTIN LEIGH
YOGA TEACHERS
Tulums white sand and crystal-clear sea draws

boho travellers from all over the world, but it can
be hard to nd a beachside yoga retreat that is
neither too hippy nor too hardcore. With serious
asanas followed by a restorative treat, and perhaps
even a well-deserved Margarita in the evening,
Shala Yoga Houses retreat provides that middle
ground. Verrochi and Leigh opened a studio in New Yorks Union Square
in 2002, and their mix of gentle adjustments, powerful sequences and
intuitive meditation, which they take on the road to Tulum, as well
as Nicaragua and Costa Rica, strikes the right balance between serious
practice and light-hearted fun. Verrochis chanting, accompanied by
her harmonium and the lapping waves, is one of the most beautiful
soundtracks imaginable. Price depends on location; www.theshala.com
IBIZA
AMANDA TIZARD
CRANIOSACRAL THERAPIST
Fresh-faced and relaxed, Tizard exudes an energy
that instantly calms and reassures. This is vital to
her work: if you cant trust her, you wont properly
let go. Theres no ceremony at her retreats;
everything is done instinctively. She will customise
treatments with alternative types of bodywork
as and when she deems it necessary, but its her
craniosacral therapy that packs the most powerful punch. Hers is an
inspired, gifted method. As she puts it, We juggle so much including
peoples perception of us, as well as our own judgements that if I can
offer someone a space just to feel safe, then Ive done my job. Tizard has
spent many years learning her craft, starting 10 years ago with massage
therapy, then moving in to craniosacral training using the Upledger
method. Track her down in Ibiza, where she regularly collaborates with
retreats run by nutritionist Vicki Edgson, or at the occasional appearance
in Londons Notting Hill. Treatments from about 50 for 60 minutes;
+34 639 152 912; amandatizard@hotmail.com
NEW YORK
ALEX DEFACCIO
COLONIC HYDROTHERAPIST
Anyone undertaking a detox, looking to kickstart
a new diet regime or suffering from IBS should
hotfoot it to Green Star Wellness on New Yorks
Fifth Avenue. Its Brazilian founder, the softly
spoken Alexandra Defacio, is famous for her
colonics and inammation-reducing lymphatic
massage using LED lights. We all know the standard
advice when it comes to water: if you want to look good on the outside,
drink plenty of it. But Defaccio has devised a series of treatments using
water both inside and out to heal, detoxify and spring-clean. The bespoke
Shamanic Colonic is not your ordinary colon hydrotherapy session; it
assists with cleansing, but also works on balancing the bodys vibrational
sounds and chakras. It may sound a little out-there, but the process has
such a powerful cleansing effect on your body that you wont feel like
lling up on cakes and crisps any time soon. Its an enlightening way to lose
a few hours and emerge feeling as fresh as a daisy. Treatments from about
115 for 75 minutes; www.greenstarwellnessnyc.com
BARCELONA
BASTIEN GONZALEZ
PODIATRIST
L AU N C H I N G O N L I N E N E X T M O N T H
THE SPA FINDER

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
Gonzalez lives for feet, which is just as well.

He has nail studios in some of the worlds
smartest city hotels, his most recent residence
being The Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona. Also a
self-confessed aircraft addict he hopes to own
a private jet one day the Frenchman
commands all the One&Only resorts from the
Maldives to Mexico, spends a lot of time in Dubai (he caretakes the
Royal Mirage, The Palm and Atlantis, The Palm) and rarely stays in any
one place for more than a couple of days. He offers the occasional
session at The Cadogan on Londons Sloane Street, which is popular
with his regular clientele of hedge-funders and billionaire businessmen
(who he doesnt scare off with polish or girly stuff), but getting an
appointment there is nigh-on impossible; youre better off ying.
While jetting away for a mani/pedi may sound nuts, once youve tried
his treatments all will become clear. Dont expect your typical, speedy
shape-and-paint. Gonzalez clips, cuts and shines with marble dust
and chamois leather, and feet are left buffed and positively gleaming.
Treatments from about 130 for 60 minutes; www.bastiengonzalez.com
HAVANA
RAFAEL ORAMA
FACIALIST
T H E Q U I C K E S T WAY TO F I N D
T H E B E S T S PA F O R YO U , W I T H
I N - D E P T H R E V I E WS A N D
E S S E N T I A L A DV I C E
+ YO GA R E T R E AT S +
+ D E TOX P R O G R A M M E S +
+ W E I G H T - LO S S W E E KS +
V I S I T C N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
In a quiet, suburban street in way-off-centre

Nuevo Vedado, the veranda of Rafael Oramas
house is always full of those waiting to have their
pores deep-cleaned by the citys most soughtafter facialist. Orama, who has been plying his
trade for two-and-a-half decades, is very much
of the if it aint broke, dont x it tradition.
He does do waxing, massages and nails (and a sideline in classic-car
rentals), but facials are his thing. His profoundly revitalising treatment
consists of a deep cleanse with steam and ethanol, a painful and
protracted extraction, optional eyebrow tinting, a sulphur mask and
a take-no-prisoners massage and cheekbone-pound. While the mask
sets, youll sit in his massage chair and listen to the theme from
St Elmos Fire as he counsels the next client on their needs (and life).
Orama doesnt mince words and will bark advice such as Never go
out in the sun, ever, but once the blotches die down, your complexion
will look ve years younger. Charmingly, he uses an adapted 18thcentury barbers chair, as well as a beautifully looked-after collection
of equipment from the 1950s to 1980s. This place is neither
conveniently located nor remotely fancy, but it offers the best facial in
Cuba. Prices on request; +537 832 0123
INDIA
SUSHANT PANDEY
YOGA DIRECTOR
Dressed in a traditional white cotton kurta and

trousers, Sushant Pandey is the opposite of
the Lycra-clad yogis of the West. Its tting
that his base at the Ananda Spa is known as
the seat of yoga; as you practise with him, you
begin to understand what the discipline is all
about. Pandey radiates calm and can backbend his lean, exible frame almost in two with supreme ease, yet
his message is not that we need to be tying ourselves in knots or
Advertisement Feature
standing on our head. Its about being rather than doing and a
session may nd you focusing on breathing methods and sitting
postures rather than complicated positions. That doesnt mean
you dont work hard: under his gentle and graceful guidance,
youll nd yourself deeply engrossed, stretching to your limits in
the meditative detail of even the simplest postures, such as the
tree pose. Pandeys combination of ancient yogic techniques
and an understanding of the 21st-century psyche encourages
a profound shift. Whether youre a beginner or more advanced,
your mind, body and yoga practice will be transformed.
Five-day yoga package from about 2,870; www.anandaspa.com
MALDIVES
JACQUELINE BOURBON
SPIRITUAL COACH
British-born Bourbon operates mainly out of

Soneva Fushi in the Maldives, where owners
Sonu and Eva Shivdasani consult her about
everything from the feng shui of the island to
the layouts of the villas. She is a healer, a
transformational teacher, a medium and a sage.
You may come to her with a physical ailment
(crushing headaches or niggling back pain) but she is quick to root out
the deeper issue. A lethargic and distressed child is diagnosed with
gluten intolerance and turns almost overnight into an energy ball with
a completely different attitude to life. When you are feeling plain old
stuck, in a relationship or with work, or youve got yourself into a spin
about something, Bourbon is terrically good at getting you out of the
vortex and moving you on. Theres no touching, no laying of hands.
Instead Bourbon can sense and release the blockages but, of course,
as she says, Its not an exact science. Clever and relaxed, she is adept
at working with resolute sceptics. She travels all the time, to China, to
Nepal, to Thailand to dip into workshops at Chiva-Som; if you can
catch her on a rare trip to London, sign up for a house visit where she
will help you not only tidy your mind but your sitting room too. About
240 for 50 minutes; www.soneva.com
YOUR MEDITERRANEAN SPA EXPERIENCE

TO REJUVENATE AND UNWIND IS
CLOSER THAN YOU THINK
ALGARVE
RICARDO ROSA
OSTEOPATH
This exceptional therapist quickly gained a

cult following when he was based at the
Longevity Wellness Resort in the Algarve.
The spa now has a shiny new outpost in
Lisbon, and Rosa has moved on to practice
at his own private clinic in Alvor. First and
foremost, this kind, gentle man will spend
as much time with you as is necessary, so your sessions are never
on the clock. Hes a qualied osteopath, but thats just half the
story. He is deeply spiritual in a way that instantly wins your trust.
Rosa can tell you about your birth and its bearing on your spinal
development: if you were breach or there were delivery problems,
it may have affected the alignment of your bones. A master of
cranialsacral therapy, hell cradle your head in his hands and rock
you into a trance. He can tell if you have kidney or liver issues by
mere touch, whether your sleep problems are caused by overheating
in the blood, and if your bad back is the result of poor hip reexes.
He then treats you with strong hands or cracking of bones until all
is where it should be. Much of what he says is common sense, easily
understood and remedied. The rest comes from the heart, which
is thought provoking and inevitably leads to a great emotional
release. Few osteopaths could have such impact. Treatments from
about 90; +351 936 014 171; ricardosio@live.com.pt
THE PURE INDULGENCE OF LE SPA WILL

REJUVENATE BODY AND SOUL
Alluring dcor, soothing waterfalls, mosaic tiled pools and lavish treatment
rooms combine to create an inviting and tranquil ambience in this unique
Thalassotherapy Spa. The only one of its kind in Europe, Le Spa features
four outdoor and three indoor seawater treatment pools in the 3,000 square
metre, award winning Le Spa with 34 individual treatment rooms, where
guests can be pampered with a choice of over 130 Thalgo and Elemis
treatments. Le Spa is a truly extraordinary therapeutic and relaxing haven.
free half board upgrade offer FOR SUMMER 2014

Available through most tour operators - see your local travel for details and
booking conditions or contact: Le Meridien Limassol Spa & Resort
Tel: +357 2586 2000 Fax: +357 2563 4222
Email: reservations@lemeridienlimassol.com / lespa@lemeridienlimassol.com
www.lemeridienlimassol.com
YOUR MEDITERRANEAN SPA EXPERIENCE
CYPRUS
The islands only

international
Five Star Chain Hotel
on the beach
THE COMPETITION
WHERE ARE YOU?
This was one of the worlds rst health
resorts. King David was known to hang
out on the banks and Herod the Great
liked to take a dip. Later, the Egyptians
came here to hone their mummication
techniques. These days, youre more likely
to nd people bobbing about or taking a
sele than actually swimming. The water is
amazingly soothing for skin problems such
as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea, and the
pure air makes it an excellent place to
recuperate after an operation. From here,
you can see across to the western shore,
along which the worlds lowest road runs.
It is 393 metres below sea level and in a
different country, so pack your passport if
you plan to cross the border, your oldest
swimming costume and something to wear
on your feet. Dont bring your snorkel
though as there arent any sh, just microbial
fungi and minuscule bits of bacteria. And
if youre clever, youll come at night when
the heat of the desert has cooled off to
oat under the stars. Where are you?
THE PRIZE
A 9,000 SPA BREAK IN THAILAND
HOW TO ENTER
Identify the body of water and country, top left, and ll in the entry
form at www.healing holidays.co.uk/competitiontermsandconditions
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You? competition can be completed online (stating
your full name, address and telephone number), and must correctly identify the
place described according to the instructions given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than 30 June 2014. 3. The Where Are You? competition is open to readers of
Cond Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the date of entry, except for employees
of Cond Nast Publications, participating promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families of any of the above. For full terms and
conditions, visit www.healingholidays.co.uk/competitiontermsandconditions
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID CROOKES
The rest of the world seems a million miles away when

youre kicking back at this jungly hillside resort on Koh
Samui. Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary is built around an
ancient monks cave, which was once the font of Buddhism
on the island. The spa offers every type of healing, from
Ayurveda to a sleep-enhancement programme. There are
treatments to stimulate your meridians, restore your
chakras and polish your aura, all soothingly performed by
intuitive therapists. Enter the Where Are You? competition
and you could win a seven-night holiday for two here. The
prize includes full-board accommodation in a Sea View
Villa, return British Airways ights and transfers. It also
includes the Relax & Renew programme, with arrival and
departure wellness consultations, a Body Bio-impedance
Analysis, two essential-oil massages, two traditional Asian
hand and foot massages, one Thai massage, one Indian head
massage, one lotus scrub and wrap, one Sodashi facial, two
Chi Nei Tsang abdominal treatments and two infrared
sauna sessions, as well as use of the steam cavern, swimming
pools and tness centre, daily holistic tness activities and
one wellness gift pack. The holiday must be taken by
December 2015, excluding 20 December 2014 to 12 April
2015. For more details, contact Healing Holidays on +44 20
7843 3592 or visit www.healingholidays.co.uk.
condenastjohansens.com
Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa, Mauritius
SPA GUIDE INDEX

AUSTRALIA
GAIA RETREAT & SPA, BYRON BAY 6
AUSTRIA
AYURVEDA RESORT SONNHOF, THIERSEE VALLEY 32

GRAND PARK HOTEL, BAD HOFGASTEIN 29
PARKHOTEL IGLS, INNSBRUCK 20
CAMBODIA
SONG SAA, KOH RONG ARCHIPELAGO 29
MALDIVES
CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI, NOONU ATOLL 37

ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH,
NORTH MALE ATOLL 36
MAURITIUS
CONSTANCE LE PRINCE MAURICE,

POSTE DE FLACQ 15
MOZAMBIQUE
CARIBBEAN
VAMIZI ISLAND,
QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO 35
FRANCE
DWARIKAS RESORT, DHULIKHEL 27
VICEROY ANGUILLA, ANGUILLA 38
LES PRES DEUGENIE, LANDES 17

SOFITEL QUIBERON DIETETIQUE, BRITTANY 20
GREECE
AMANZOE, PELOPONNESE 37
INDIA
ANANDA IN THE HIMALAYAS, UTTARAKHAND 18

HILTON SHILLIM ESTATE, PUNE 30
KALARI KOVILAKOM, KERALA 31
VANA, UTTARAKHAND 5
INDONESIA
COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE, BALI 12

FIVELEMENTS, BALI 30
ITALY
THE FITNESS RENAISSANCE, TUSCANY 43

PALACE MERANO, SOUTH TYROL 24
BIKINI, 77, MARYSIA SWIM AT WWW.

SHOPBOP.COM. EARRINGS, 733;
NECKLACE, 765, BOTH MARIA
BLACK AT NET-A-PORTER.COM.
BRACELET, 600, HEDI SLIMANE FOR
SAINT LAURENT (WWW.YSL.COM)
NEPAL
NICARAGUA
MUKUL, GUACALITO DE LA ISLA 31
OMAN
SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY,

MUSANDAM PENINSULA 8
PHILIPPINES
THE FARM AT SAN BENITO, LIPA 6
PORTUGAL
JUICY OASIS, VALE DO SERRAO 18
SEYCHELLES
BANYAN TREE SEYCHELLES, MAHE 36

FREGATE ISLAND PRIVATE, FREGATE ISLAND 32
SPAIN
F12 FITNESS, LA MANGA CLUB, MURCIA 44

IN:SPA, ANDALUCIA 43
SWITZERLAND
CLINIQUE LA PRAIRIE, MONTREUX 23

GRAND RESORT BAD RAGAZ, ST GALLEN 5
LONHEA, VILLARS-SUR-OLLON 23
LA RESERVE, GENEVA 24
THAILAND
ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY, KOH SAMUI 17

CHIVA-SOM, HUA HIN 10
POINT YAMU BY COMO, PHUKET 38
USA
CANYON RANCH, ARIZONA 10

KRIPALU, MASSACHUSETTS 44
The greatest
wealth is health
Virgil
Join the wellness revolution, become

a healthier version of yourself by
investing in a wellness holiday.
Healing Holidays the spa and wellness experts

www.healingholidays.co.uk 020 7843 3592
#WeAreWellness @healinghols

Conde Nast UK 6/14

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Conde Nast UK 6/14

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

JUNE 2014 3.

SECRET SEASIDE HOTELS

THE INSIDE TRACK

173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005

These are our top-secret,

Take to the empty

Free spirits should rent a house on

PHOTOGRAPH: TOM PARKER

Fancy-dress fashion at one of the

Jerez Cathedral seen from the grounds of Alczar fort in Andaluca

a buzz around the world, from Beijing

26 Short break Summer time means

festival season: we round up the best

37 Where to stay Ace Hotel

Downtown Los Angeles; Bed-hopping

6 Cond Nast Traveller June 2014

the look of your favourite hotel

114 A travellers tales

Around the world with the Golden

116 In Britain Head for the winding

narrow streets of York to discover the

123 The experts Meet the yoga

instructor to take your breath away in

50 A letter from Istanbul, where

140 Competition Win a 4,000

52 Style file Eye-popping neon art

143 Reader offer Save 15 per cent

surprising treasures are often wheeled

63 Trendwatch This month, shop

inspired by feathers, plus the boutique

holiday for two in Naples, staying at

172 Room with a view The Setai,

nd so im off to coachella, the music festival in Palm Springs where

WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR

Martin Morrell Photographer, Belize (p92)

The nicest festival experience I have had was at Wilderness

Ken Kochey Photogapher, Gotland (p102)

Mary Rozzi Photographer, Maldives (p86)

Antonia Quirke Writer, Costa de la Luz (p76)

Stanley Stewart Writer, Belize (p92)

Daisy Finer The Spa Guide editor

The audience is every bit as spectacular as the performers

SYNDICATION AND EDITORIAL BUSINESS

The most desirable villas in

Cant nd Cond Nast Traveller in the shops?

+44 (0)20 7377 8518

MANAGING DIRECTOR Nicholas Coleridge

thundering in herds across the prairies. When the retreat opens

PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISTI JOHNSON; MICHAEL PARTENIO

urrounded by red canyons and big skies, the backdrop to

June 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 17

STITCH IT TO THE MAN

Guerilla artists are making their mark on the streets

18 Cond Nast Traveller June 2014

THE REBEL: OLEK

THE BEST THING SINCE

PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER BENNETTS; SHUTTERSTOCK; JEFF SINGER/GALLERY STOCK

itch the cronuts, drop that cupcake

San Francisco has stepped up to the bread bin

The new classic

The new retreat

Inside, this ancient San

Cool young things