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The Bustle Period

We move on to the next period of the Victorian Era which is the Bustle. The Bustle period is
named for the silhouette of the women's skirts. Notice that this period is only 19 years! Fashion
is on the move!

Artstyle: Impressionism
Artists are challenged by the camera and must now seek out new ways to express themselves.
They began to paint what they saw and not what they knew was there. This style is called

Slide 3
Degas, Renoir, and Monet were among the top Impressionist artists of the day. This is Degas'
painting entitled "The Dance Class."

Slide 4
Here is Claude Monet's painting "Jardin a Sainte-Adresse."

Thomas Edison conceived the principle of recording and reproducing sound between May and
July 1877 as a byproduct of his efforts to "play back" recorded telegraph messages and to
automate speech sounds for transmission by telephone.

His other great inventions of the day were the
phonograph which could play back sound i.e.
music. The original iPod.

The ideal woman was a professional." History In the early 1800's inventors started experimenting with different engines in an effort to create a horseless carriage. History College football has its origins back in the Bustle period. Slide 10 Lifestyle The lifestyle was stable until 1914 and the start of World War I. The 1869 game between Rutgers and Princeton is important in that it is the first documented game of any sport called "football" between two American colleges. unrivaled in popularity. "Style" was required by both men and women. and Benz. Olds. Slide 12 The ideal male was competent. History By the 1860s. Daimler. Ford. . successful. accomplished lady who was just beginning to take her place in the business world. and domineering. was a contest held between teams from Rutgers College (now Rutgers University) and the College of New Jersey (now Princeton University). The very first game ever played of intercollegiate football. was being described as America's "national pastime. baseball. By the 1880's many inventors were involved in this process. Here are a few names that might be familiar to you.

education. how best to educate them became a subject of considerable discussion and debate. bicycling. History Being sad for the deceased became a novel distraction in the Bustle period due in large part from Queen Victoria. political and social pressures on old habits and assumptions. Society no longer viewed children simply as unfinished adults. people found they had more leisure time. and bathing(swimming). riding. these same industrial advances produced economic. Brooches portraying the deceased would be worn by relatives and friends. I particularly like Rule #3 and #5. History As the work week grew shorter.Lifestyle Children were seen and not heard. Along with those goods came the chance to acquire customs and habits originally reserved for the wealthy. Adults perceived the world as a more confusing and dangerous place from which parents must shelter innocent children for as long as possible. Slide 17 Meanwhile. A few of the sports these Victorians participated in were hunting. Often this hair would be cut and formed into brooches prior to one's death. tennis. straining traditional beliefs about male and female roles and abilities. and social status. More and more women worked outside the home. . bird watching. so sportswear become a new fashion category. I wish my children would adhere to just these two! :) Slide 15 Slide 16 Family life in this period reveals a fundamental shift in many traditional American attitudes toward children. gender roles. Slide 14 Here a list of the rules suggested for children to follow in the 1880's. In the lower right you can see a brooch that contains hair of the dearly departed. Developments in industrial production and technology increased the ability of ordinary Americans to buy what once had been unattainable luxuries.

Neckwear Here on the bottom left you can see a gates ajar collar. trousers. waistcoat. The tie in the top photo is an ascot. It's named after the knot used for handling a team of four horses at the same time on a wagon or carriage.Slide 21 Men's Garments Men of the Bustle period were either exceptionally wealthy or exceedingly poor. Hence the name "sack" coat. Get it. It is held in place with a jeweled pin. was reserved for evening formal wear. Men's Garments Evening wear consisted of the dress coat. This tie is the same tie and knot that men wear today. I guess the know was so special because you could control all four horses with just one hand instead of two. Ithas a slightly baggie silhouette. The sack suit soon became the fashion trend. Slide 29 . well all you have to do is fold down the points of the collar and presto. Hey. Slide 24 The top left is a great example of a sack coat but not a ditto suit since the trousers are a different fabric. In the middle it looks like a ditto suit but are the trousers really the same fabric. The beaver fur-felt top hat and either white or grey kid gloves completed the ensemble. and thus giving the back the appearance of a ''swallowtail'. plain bibbed shirt front with gates ajar collar and bow tie or ascot. with its front cut well to the side. Men's Garments The tie in the bottom photo is called a four-in-hand tie. you have gates ajar. Photos from this period show the disparity between the two classes. Pictured here are the wealthy upper classes known as tycoons or financiers. Finally on the right is a true ditto suit where all the pieces have matching fabric. It's not really tied as much as it is folded over on itself. Men's Garments During the Bustle period the men's suit coat begins to get smaller lapels and men use only the top button. four-in-hand. See how the collar stands up on the right. this is the beginning of the the three piece suit! Slide 25 Here you see more sack suits and ditto suits. The dress coat. The middle class as we know it existed in a very small population. This single breasted coat had no waistline seam small lapels with only one button at the top.

Feb. It was named either after the Duke of Norfolk or after the county of Norfolk and was made fashionable after the 1860s in the sporting circle of the Prince of Wales. and fits the form almost as closely as a frock. . This. will be the Chesterfield." The American Fashion Review. Many gentlemen still wore full beards or walrus moustaches. It seemed the top hat would get caught on tree branches and fall off. London. either for Fall or Winter wear.Pick out the gates-a-jar. plaids and small checks being some of the more common. " The Fly front sack continues to be the predominant style. Aug. herringbone. later Edward VII. the Van Dyke in the back middle. Men's Garments In the top photo is a bowler or derby. It was originally designed as a shooting coat that did not bind when the elbow was raised to fire. Tweeds were the fabric of choice. with all manner of design. Men's Garments It wasn't until 1890 that the center crease in trousers appeared." Isaac Walton and Co. Slide 33 Take a look at a few of the popular hairstyles and beards of the Bustle period. as everyone should know. and knee breeches ( knickerbockers). 1890. This. It has remained a main stay in men's suits to this day. whose country residence was Sandringham House in Norfolk. So a shorter hat was created by the London hat makers Thomas and William Bowler. 1882. and touring to general country wear. cap or helmet. "It seems universally accepted that the proper dress for bicycling is knee breeches. The hat was created to replace the top hat for men when riding out on a hunt. 1888.Catalogue. This was paired with a variety of different facial hairstyles as seen above. houndstooth. Â Some of the most common were - the full moustache on the back right. short jacket. Hair was cut very short and then oiled flat. and a normal collar. four-in-hand. became the chosen costume for a variety of activities from shooting. ribbed stocking and low shoes. along with the sack coat.. single-breasted jacket with box pleats on the back (and sometimes front)."Etiquette of Men's Dress - 1888 Men's Garments " As usual the leading style of overcoat. cycling. Men's Garments A Norfolk jacket is a loose. " The Chesterfield still maintains its popularity as the favourite shape of overcoat for general use. is a Fly Front Sack." Clothier and Furnisher. It is of medium length. belted. now with a belt or half-belt. long drooping and oiled.

Bustles Bustles came in all shapes and sizes. Men's Garments Spats shown in the top photo were shoe covers that covered the instep. and brought back a hat of this style. It was considered a summer hat since it was made of straw. upwards curl. The boater hat was associated with sailing or boating and had a ribbon or band around the crown which is often in colours representing a school. Unit 13 Bustle women Bustle Period Let's take a look at the women's fashions from this period. In the bottom photo is the homburg. rowing crew or similar institution. It was popularized by Edward VIIafter he visited Bad Homburg in Hessen. as with the corset and crinoline one must be careful not to focus on extremes. Gaiters were made of leather and covered the leg from the ankle up to the knee. . Slide 2 As the name implies the women's fashions are pulled to the back creating a bustle.The boater hat is shown in the middle photo. They were worn by bird watchers and hikers who often encountered bramble bushes which would leave thorns and brambles in their wool socks. Some were constructed almost entirely of steel. The bodice is very tight fitting and the armscye is in its normal position with a straight tight sleeve. They were originally worn for protection and later became a fashion item. A homburg is a felt hat characterized by a single dent running down the center of the crown and a brim fixed in a tight. Bustles were often ridiculed in journals and the popular press. Gaiters extended the life of men's socks and trousers. But although they could be cumbersome and uncomfortable. These were often stuffed with horsehair. Germany. down and even straw to achieve the desired fullness. For daytime the gowns are made up of a bodice and a skirt. others resembled colourful cushions.

As these women age the need to conceal the neck becomes more pressing. . Slide 5 Slide 6 The necklines are high for daytime and low for evening. The high necks are a reflection of the fashion icons of the day: Princess Alexandria and an aging Queen Victoria. small 'puffs' were for the early afternoon to remove the flat look of the dress and larger. Slide 4 The dress of the first bustle period (1870's) is noted for the lightness of it's material and decoration. They were usually adjustable in size and women could wear different styles according to their activities and the time of day.Most bustles in museum collections are not as enormous as all the written criticisms would have us believe. swathing the lower reaches of a woman's body in numerous ruffles and pleats. longer bustles were suited to the ballroom. Small 'tournures' fastened to the corset were recommended for walking. often in light colors using the new and vibrant aniline dyes.

Pay particular attention to the use of decorative trim on the skirts. heavy satins and brocades replace the taffetas and cottons of the 1870's. and fringe. but in Worth's talented hands it becomes a work of art. Slide 9 Fashion plates were abundant for women of all means. Skirt This is a Charles Fredrick Worth gown. Colors get more jewel-toned and velvets. with decoration more resembling upholstery style. giving the whole ensemble a more mature flavor. Slide 13 . They were used to inspire women and keep them abreast of the latest fashions. Although yards of trim and embellishments were used on each gown there still is a sense of unity and cohesiveness in each garment. These gowns were definitely works of art. Slide 10 The second bustle period (the 1880's) is heavier. Slide 7 Here is a fashion plate from which women of the day could chose the latest fashions. Remember him? He was the first true haute couture designer. In this gown you can see the exquisite use of draping. These plates would be used to assist seamstresses and clients to communicate what was desired in a gown. In the hands of an ordinary dressmaker this could be a recipe for disaster. Featured here are both daytime looks and evening looks. trim. Surface decoration is often of passementarie or jet beads. Slide 12 Enjoy the close up the details of this gown.

Notice that although this is the bustle period. Sportswear The growth of sporting activities. There was ice skating in the winter. Slide 17 Female cyclists still risked ridicule and many preferred to wear breeches beneath a skirt and plenty more simply wore just the skirt. golf. but. Sportswear Lawn tennis was another popular sport for middle-class women. Here is a riding habit from the time period. hockey. suggested a dual garment which initially was a divided skirt worn under a long coat. By the 1880's it had become the rage in . finding it an excellent method of exercise and a useful mental and physical outlet. particularly between 1870 and 1900. cycyling. along with archery. the skirt is not as full as a day gown would be. riding. Those favoring the style drew attention to its value. players were soon caught up in the competitive spirit of the game. for women as well as men. Slide 16 So that women could participate in the craze for healthy cycling. tennis in the summer. The idea appealed to many as sensible and practical. More active than croquet or archery tennis also appealed to men. was phenomenal. Accident reports of cyclists who had been encumbered by the fashion for wearing standard skirt styles often appeared in the press. I guess it would be rather difficult to ride a horse in a true bustle gown. At first proper tennis involved patting the ball back and forth. Slide 15 Sportswear continues to grow as its own fashion category. without keeping score. and cricket. Lady Harberton. along with boating. hunting.

. it was still a part of seaside fashion.fashionable summer resorts. and magazines devoted space to the proper clothes to wear while playing. At larger resorts hundreds of these huts could be seen in the water at time. eccentric. Along with this new outdoor pastime came the need for a stylish garment for the privileged lady of fashion Slide 23 Women were careful not to expose their skin in the sun and would go on the beach with a faceshading bonnet. Women would have the hut hauled out into the water by horses and pulled back to shore when the bathing was finished. Often women would sew weights into the hem of the gowns to prevent their dress from floating up. shawl and gloves. At larger resorts hundreds of these huts could be seen in the water at time. Sportswear Mine! Sportswear -tennis Do you think you could play tennis in these? Sportswear Leisure dress was becoming an important part of a women's wardrobe. frivolous. Even though the bustle was extremely cumbersome. and brighter. Seaside dress was seen as more daring. Seaside dress in England had its own distinct characteristics but still followed the regular fashions of the day. There was a bathing machine which was actually a hut on wheels gave absolute privacy to the women who spent their entire day on the beach. Slide 24 There was a bathing machine which was actually a hut on wheels gave absolute privacy to the women who spent their entire day on the beach. ocean side beaches became even more popular for sunny recreations. Sportswear With the introduction of railroads. Women would have the hut hauled out into the water by horses and pulled back to shore when the bathing was finished.

Masses of curls down the back decorated with flowers and trim to match the skirt were in vogue. Hairstyles Hairstyles of the bustle period seemed to emulate the bustle on the skirts of the day. arranged to give a vertical line. the back cut away to allow the hair to flow freely. resulting in an attractive wave. bonnets had to be worn further forward. feather wings. Slide 29 . Crimping allowed for a "turned up hairstyle" in which the hair was pulled over a hot iron. Slide 28 Trimmings. aigrettes. feathers. flowers. an important invention in hairstyling was invented: crimping. Slide 26 In 1872. Hats With the massive arrangement of hair at the back of the head in the late 1860s and early 1870s. beetles. In the 1880's there were soft waves and frizzy bangs achieved by the use of curling irons. the front curving just above the hair-line to behind the ears where the ribbons were attached. velvet and/or tulle. fruit and vegetables intermingled with loops of fancy ribbon. could be elaborate and even bizarre: small birds.