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Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

VI NT V QUY CCH M THC

CUNG NH TRIU NGUYN

Phan Thun An*

So vi tt c cc tnh thnh khc Vit Nam, Hu l thnh ph c th mnh nht

v vn ha cung nh, cn vn ha dn gian th u cng c. Mt s di sn vn ha
cung nh y c ghi nhn chng nhng l c gi tr quc gia m cn mang gi
tr quc t na. Chng p ng c tiu ch quan trong nht m y ban Di sn Th
gii ca UNESCO nu ra l gi tr ton cu ni bt (outstanding universal value),
cho nn, Qun th Di tch Hu v Nh nhc Cung nh Hu c cng nhn l di
sn vn ha vt th (tangible) v di sn vn ha phi vt th (intangible) mang tm c
th gii u tin ca Vit Nam vo nhng nm 1993 v 2003.
Nay xin cp i nt n mt loi di sn vn ha phi vt th khc na ca c
triu Nguyn, l m thc cung nh.
***
Qua mt s s sch v nhn chng thuc triu i qun ch cui cng ca Vit
Nam, chng ta bit c phn no v quy cch m thc trong chn hong cung Hu,
t bin ch cc n v chuyn nghip phc v bp nc, vic chun b thc phm, t
chc nu nng thc n, cho n cch thit tr mm bn v sp t cc mn ho son
phc v cho cc ba n hng ngy ca vua hoc cho cc cuc t l v yn tic ca
triu nh.
A. Cc n v nhn s phc v n thc ung
p ng mt cch y thc n ung theo yu cu t hong gia v triu
nh, cc c quan lin quan, nh B L, B Binh v B H phi hp vi nhau
thit lp mt s n v nhn s, trong c 7 n v quan trng nht sau y: i
Thng Thin, i Phng Thin, cc ty L Thin, Vin Thng Tr, Ng H, V
Vng Thnh v Quang Lc T.
1. i Thng Thin
Thin l n (danh t) hay l n (ng t). Ch ny ch dnh ring cho vua
cha, thnh thn. Thng l chung, l trn, ch ng vua. Thng thin l n
hay ba n ca vua. Cn ng tc vua n cm hay dng ba th gi l Ng thin .
i Thng Thin l mt n v qun i gm 50 ngi, chuyn lo vic nu n hng
ngy cho vua. H thuc ngch Cm binh, ngha l bin ch ca B Binh. i qun lo
vic nu nng ny do mt i trng ng u.(1)
Vo nm 1833, triu nh quy nh chc nng v trch nhim ca i Thng
Thin nh sau: Phm hng ngy tin cc th ngc thc, m v, u chun theo ng
* Thnh ph Hu.

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25

cch thc nu mn n m lm ... Phm th go qu no dnh cho vua phi knh cn

kim tra cho . n nh nc l dng hng ngy cung tin vo trong cung Ng, do
chc chuyn t vic y cung np, phi knh cn coi xt, lc gn trong sch cho ng
php. V phn h kim c [tc l Ng h], hng ngy tin c ti; h kim ci, hng
ngy cung ci m; u chiu s ng k cho dng dng. Phm khi nu mn n,
ct phi mi phn tinh sch. Cn vt liu ng dng v s tin chi tiu, th chiu lnh
nha mn coi gi vic y. n nh s Thng Thin c l cm gii; nhng nhn
vin khng c bn phn th khng c ra, vo; cng nhng vt nht thit cm k,
khng c vi phm cht no.(2)
2. i Phng Thin
Phng c ngha l dng ln. Phng thin y c ngha l lm n thc
ung dng ln cho m vua dng hng ngy. Di thi Minh Mng v Thiu Tr,
i ng chuyn trch ny c 30 ngi, ng u l mt Sut i v hai i trng.
Tt nhin, h cng thuc bin ch ca B Binh. Hng ngy, h c chia phin ng
trc ti cung T Th (v sau c i tn l cung Din Th) cng nhau lo vic bp
nc nhm phc v cho b Hong Thi hu.(3) n nm Thnh Thi th 2 (1890), i
Phng Thin c gia tng nhn s v t chc thnh 2 i: i Phng Thin nht c
30 ngi, i Phng Thin nh c 20 ngi.(4) C l v by gi trong cung T Th c
n 2 b Hong Thi hu cn sng. Mt b l Nghi Thin Chng Hong Thi hu T
D, tn tht l Phm Th Hng (1810-1901), v vua Thiu Tr. Hai l b L Thin Anh
Hong hu, tn tht l V Th Duyn (1828-1902), v vua T c. Cho nn, cn phi
c n 2 i Phng Thin phc v v vic n ung cho 2 b.
3. Cc ty L Thin
T thi Minh Mng, L Thin c chia ra lm 3 ty gi l Tam ty L Thin. i
ng binh s bin ch y ln n 350 ngi. T chc nhn s gm 3 ty: L Thin Ty,
T L Thin Ty v Hu L Thin Ty. Mi ty do mt Sut i iu khin.
- L Thin Ty: chia lm 3 i chuyn nu cc mn n.
- T L Thin Ty: chia lm 2 i, chuyn lm cc th bnh v ung.
- Hu L Thin Ty: chia lm 2 i, chuyn lo chuyn ti cc mm c ( n thc
ung) n ch yn tic hoc ni cng t. Tt c gm 7 i, mi i 50 ngi. ng
u mi i l mt i trng.
Mt trong hai i T L Thin Ty c chia ra lm 3 cc: cc lm bnh kh,
cc lm bnh in v cc lm bt go.
Cc ty L Thin c 2 nhim v chnh. Mt l chun b c bn cho cc cuc yn
tic do triu nh t chc khon i cc nh thn, cc phi b ngoi giao, cc tn khoa
tin s... Hai l lm l phm cng t ti cc lng miu vua cha nh Nguyn v
cc n t, t qun kinh , nh n Nam Giao, n X Tc, cha Thin M, v.v...
Phn ln nhn vin thuc cc ty L Thin u l ngi lng Phc Yn (huyn Qung
in), tng l ni ng th ph ca cc cha Nguyn t nm 1626 n 1635 v c
truyn thng ch bin cc mn m thc cao cp cho nh cha. Mi n thi cc vua

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Nguyn, dn lng ny nh ni ting v tay ngh nu nng nh vy, cho nn, khng
c l tuyn lnh, dn s ti ch ph lm cc cng vic Ty L Thin.(5)
Tr s ca cc ty L Thin ngy xa nm gn ngoi ca Chng c bn tri
Hong Thnh. Trc nm 1975, c mt con ng tri thng gc vi ng L
Hun thuc pha ty i Ni, mang tn l kit L Thin, ngy nay l ng ng Trn
Cn. Gc ng Trn Cn/ L Hun chnh l v tr ca b phn L Thin do vua Minh
Mng ch nh vo nm 1840. Khong nm 1930 th b phn ny thu nh v khng
cn v tr na.(6)
4. Vin Thng Tr
Vin Thng Tr chuyn trch vic dng ung ln cho vua v Hong Thi
hu dng hng ngy; cung ng nc tr cho cc nh thn ung trong cc bui triu
hi (i triu, Thng triu); cung cp nc tr v ru vo nhng l k gi v t t
ti cc n miu quan trng; mang nhng ung theo khi vua Ng gi i tun du
cc a phng...
Khi chnh nh vua ch thn i lm ch t cc n miu, th bui chiu ngy
hm trc, n lnh ru v khay, chn kho Thng phng, knh cn xem xt,
nim ghi, dng n ni t, giao cho ngi chuyn trch ni y coi gi chun b lm
th ru m phc,(7) tc l ru cng ri, thn ban mt chn cho vua ung hng
phc. Trong nhng ngy bnh thng, Vin phi mt nhm thuc vin vo trc nh
T Tr trong cung T Th (Din Th) v mt nhm khc n trc Duyt Th ng
phng c sai khin vic g.
S binh lnh phc v Vin Thng Tr ty theo i vua m bin ch nhiu hay
t. Thi Gia Long lp ra 9 i vi qun s hn 450 ngi. Qua i Minh Mng, gim
xung cn 2 i vi s s 100. ng u l mt Vin s (hm Chnh T phm V
giai) v mt Ph Vin s (hm Tng Ng phm V giai). n thi Thiu Tr, l nh
s binh sung b vo vin y l 80 ngi.(8)
5. Ng H (hay Ng Ngh i)
Nh ngha trong ci tn ca n, Ng H hay Ng Ngh i l n v
chuyn trch vic nh bt thy sn p ng cho nhu cu hng ngy, thng k v
bt thng k ca cc nh bp hong gia (Thng Thin, Phng Thin...) v nh bp
triu nh (L Thin).
Di triu Nguyn, o qun nh bt thy sn ny c gi bng cc danh
xng khc nhau. Vo thi Gia Long (1802-1820), triu nh lp ra 2 i Ni Cn v
Tin Ng. ng u mi n v l mt Cai i mang hm Chnh Ng phm. Nhng,
qua thi Minh Mng (1820-1840), tn hai i y c gi chung l Ng H, ng
u l mt Sut h, hm Chnh Lc phm. Di l 2 ngi H trng, mang hm
Tng Cu phm. Vo nm 1836, s lnh trong Ng H l 50 ngi. T nm 1841 tr
i, triu nh quy nh dng ng dn lm ngh nh c thay th dn cho qun lnh
trong bin ch ca B Binh.(9) Vo nm 1884 di thi Kin Phc, danh xng Ng
H c i thnh Ng Ngh i. Nhiu nm sau , cc trng quan ca i

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

27

Ng Ngh vn thuc vo ngch Tinh binh ti Kinh,(10) ngha l di s qun l ca

B Binh.
S quan ca triu Nguyn ghi li mt cu chuyn c ngha lin quan n
vic nh c ca Ng H trn Sng Hng di thi Thiu Tr. Vo ma h nm
1841, trong dp i th st cng trng xy dng lng Minh Mng tr v bng thuyn
rng, vua Thiu Tr cho dng thuyn mt lc xem i Ng H nh c. i trng
Ng H l Trn Cng Phc thng ng vi quan Th v (i theo hu vua) ngm th
c sn v nh li, khi ct li th c nhy ln lao xao. Vua bit l gi di, bo Th
thn rng: H nh c p c sn, nh la ta ch ta chnh mt trng thy. Ta xem
vic nh c bit bn nnh thn l ng ght. Bn lm th ghi nh (trong th c
cu: ng tiu tu trng vin hnh thn , ngha l c tuy l vt nh, ta
cng nn phng, xa k nnh thn). Bn Phc b pht mi ngi 40 cn, ng gng
a v B... Thng pht phi lm lnh Vin Thng Tr.(11)
6. V Vng Thnh
Vng l li, thnh l bc tng cao. V l mt n v qun i gm
500 ngi. o qun ny c 2 chc nng l chuyn gi vic vy li lm thnh v
sn bn. V Vng Thnh c thnh lp t thi Gia Long. By gi, s lnh ca v
Vng Thnh c chia lm 10 i, mi i 50 ngi, u tuyn dng t dn 2 lng nm
gn ni, l lng Ph Bi Tha Thin (8 i) v lng Thy Ba Qung Tr (2 i).
Vo nm 1833 di thi Minh Mng, triu nh quy nh r 2 chc nng ca
n v ny l lm thnh v sn bn nh va ni.
- V chc nng th nht, khi vua i chi xa trong vng t kinh k, nh i sn
bn chng hn, v Vng Thnh phi em trc binh lnh ca mnh n ni vua tr
tt chng by li lm thnh chung quanh khu vc vua dng chn li mt
vi hm. H c nhim v canh gi m bo an ninh cho nh vua.
- Chc nng th hai, cng l chc nng chnh: v Vng Thnh c nhim v vo
rng sn bt mung th cung tin ln cc n miu ca triu i trong cc dp l t
t v k gi do triu nh t chc.(12)
vic sn bt th rng c hiu qu tt, ngay t nm 1826, vua Minh Mng
cho php v Vng Thnh c ra mt ngi ch lo nui dng 100 con ch sn; ri vo
nm 1828, nh vua ra lnh V Kh phi cung cp cho v ny 100 cy mc bng st v
mt s li sn. n u thi Thiu Tr, triu nh quy nh rng n ngy k hng
nm mt s miu th vua cha triu Nguyn th trc 12 hm, v Vng Thnh
phi phi 300 lnh i sn bn th rng. Mi chuyn i sn nh th phi kim t nht l
10 con. Nu t ch tiu th cc binh lnh y c thng na thng tin lng. Nu
sn bt thm c 10 con na th h c thng thm na thng tin lng na.(13)
n nm 1890 di thi Thnh Thi, bin ch ca v Vng Thnh ch cn 150
ngi, c chia ra lm 3 i, ng u mi i l mt Sut i,(14) mang hm Chnh
Lc phm V giai.

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7. Quang Lc T
Quang Lc T l c quan chuyn lo iu hnh cng vic sm sa c bn
v ch dn, gim st vic bi tr n thc ung trong cc dp i l ca triu nh, nh
t t, k gi, yn tic, v t chc nu ru cng t v tht i... Nhim v chnh
ca c quan ny l c sot cc mn ho son ti ni cng t hoc ch tic tng, xem
c tinh sch v y hay khng.
Quang Lc T c thit lp vo nm 1830 thi Minh Mng. ng u l vin
chc Quang Lc T khanh (hm Tng Tam phm Vn giai) do mt ng quan trong
Lc B kim nhim. T , L Thin c t trc thuc vo c quan ny. n nm
1853 thi T c, Quang Lc T mi t di s qun l trc tip ca B L. Di
T khanh l Thiu khanh (hm Tng T phm Vn giai). Thuc vin l 1 Vin ngoi
lang, 1 Ch s, 1 T v, 3 Bt cu phm th li, 12 V nhp lu th li. Cc thuc
vin c chia lm 2 ban.(15)
Cc tc gi ca b i Nam hi in s l dnh ra n 2 quyn (237 v 238)
vit mt cch chi tit v cng tc ca Quang Lc T trong vic iu phi thc hin
v bi tr c bn. Trong c nhng on vit:
Phm gp cc l hng t v ngy k, cc th tht, xi, c bn, nu chn do
T [tc l Quang Lc T] bo cho ngi coi vic tun lm, ng quan ca T phi
thn n kim sot trc, sao cho c tinh khit y .
Phm gp tic yn cc ngy khnh tit, c hng 1 hng 2, yn n vinh cho tin
s c hng trn, hng gia u do T xt nhng th bc, phn bin nhng phm vt,
bo cho ngi coi vic tun lm, cn thuc quc ngoi phin n triu cng c tic
yn khon i th c B t, a tun lm.
Phm l L hng nm phi dng ru nu bng go np, ru nu bng go
tm, phi ng k chiu lnh go cng v cc hng ca cng, do ph Tha Thin t
gi thu lm, giao cho T c sc ngi nu, khi thnh ru, a giao cho ph Ni
V thu tr dng trong vic t t yn tic, nhng vt liu tin go nu ru, do
T chiu lnh chi cp.(16)
Hng nm, triu nh t chc cc cuc yn tic vo nhng dp l khc nhau: yn
tic chiu i triu thn, yn tic ban cho cc tn khoa tin s, yn tic dnh cho cc
s b ngoi giao... Ring v ba tic vua ban cho cc triu thn trong dp Tt m lch,
Ni Cc ghi rng:
Phm hng nm tit nguyn n, ban yn cho hong thn cng v quan vn quan
v Chnh Tam phm tr ln u sp hng ngi nhng gian t hu in Cn Chnh,
mi gian dng c nu hng nht 2 mm, c nu hng nh 3 mm, vn Chnh Ng phm
v Chnh T phm u sp hng ngi nhng gian t hu vu, mi gian dng c nu
hng nh mt mm ri... C nu hng nht mi mm 30 a tr tin 10 quan; hng nh
mi mm 23 a, tr tin 8 quan; hng ba mi mm 20 a tr tin 6 quan.(17)
V yn tic chiu i cc phi on ngoi giao, triu nh cng quy nh mt
cch rch ri. By gi, cc phi b ngoi giao n kinh Hu c chia ra lm

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

29

nhng ng cp khc nhau ty theo tm quan trng trong mi bang giao v chnh tr.
Quan trng nht l s b nh Thanh (Trung Hoa), c xem nh thin triu i vi
nc i Nam. Trong khi , i Nam c xem nh nc n anh ca hn 10 tiu
quc v phin quc ln cn, chng hn nh Cao Min, Vn Tng, Lc Hon, Thy
X, Ha X... Do , cht lng c bn chiu i cc nc y cng khc nhau:
- S on nh Thanh: i mt mm c hn nht (50 a), 7 mm hng nh (mi
mm 40 a), 25 mm hng ba (mi mm 30 a).
- S on Cao Min: c yn 10 mm.
- S on Lc Hon (ngi Mng): 7 mm.
- S on Vn Tng (Lo): 6 mm.
- S on Thy X, Ha X: mi on 3 mm...(18)
ng quan tm nht l vo nm 1828, triu nh quy nh loi c bn hng
ln... gm 161 phm v tr gi tin 309 quan 5 tin 42 ng(19) (Mi phm v l mt
loi n thc ung). Quy nh y cng c ngha l khi dn ln c bn hng ln vi
161 mn m thc nh th, Quang Lc T c trng trch phi kim sot mt cch k
cng v thn trng v cht lng ca tt c cc phm v .
Nhn chung, vic cung ng m thc cho hong gia v triu nh nh Nguyn
c t chc mt cch quy m v c h thng vi s lin kt cht ch gia cc b,
vin, nha, s v nhiu c quan thuc cp khc nhau. Qua tm hiu cc n v nhn s
trn y, chng ta thy cng tc y c thc hin mt cch nghim cn.
B. Quy cch n ung hng ngy ca cc vua v phong thi d tic ca cc
quan trong nhng dp l ln
Theo b L Th Dinh (sinh nm 1921), mt chng
nhn lch s tng sng nhiu nm trong i Ni
( phc v cho b T Cung, tc oan Huy Hong
Thi hu (1890-1980); hin cn sng ti Hu th
trong chn cung nh triu Nguyn c 2 loi c: c
Ni v c Ngoi. C Ni do i Thng Thin v
i Phng Thin lm. Cn c Ngoi th do cc ty
L Thin thc hin.(20)
Di y, da vo mt s sch bo v chng nhn,
chng ti ch tm hiu v quy cch n ung ca cc
vua nh Nguyn (thuc loi c Ni) v phong thi
d tic ca cc quan trong nhng dp l ln ca
triu nh (thuc loi c Ngoi).
1. Quy cch n ung hng ngy ca cc vua

B L Th Dinh (ngi) sinh nm 1921.

Nay cn sng Hu.

Nu chnh s triu Nguyn khng ghi chp g v

cung cch n ung ca cc vua trong hong cung, th
may thay, chng ta c c mt s on tng thut
ca ngi phng Ty trong cc sch bo ca h sau

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Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

nhng dp n Hu, v li k ca mt s chng nhn ngi Vit tng lm vic trong

i Ni di thi cc vua Nguyn cui cng.
Trong phn trn, chng ta thy phn no nhng quy nh chung mang tnh
nguyn tc ca triu nh v t chc ca i Thng Thin v nhim v ca c quan
ny trong vic cung cp cc phm v vua Ng thin hng ngy.
Nhng, thc ra, vic n ung ca cc vua nh Nguyn thng khng ging
nhau. C vua dng ba rt n gin, cng c vua li tht cu k.
Nhng ngi phng Ty c dp gp vua Gia Long cho bit rng nh vua sng
rt iu . ng khng bao gi ung ru. Ba n ch gm cm v mt t tht, c, rau,
v sau n trng ming bng bnh hoc tri cy. Khi n, vua khng h cho ai ngi
n cng mm, k c Hong hu.
Sau khi thit triu hoc i th st cng trng, vua thng dng cm tra trong
thuyn Ng trn Sng Hng, chng 2 gi chiu th v cung ri ng n 5 gi mi
dy. Sau khi n cm chiu, vua bn cng vic vi cc quan cho n lc na m. Sau
, vua dng mt ba nh na, xong l i ng.(21)
T u thi Minh Mng tr i, vic phc v m thc cho nh vua c t chc
ngy cng quy m v cht ch nh ni qua tiu mc i Thng Thin trn
y. i qun nh bp cao cp ny c n 50 ngi, mi ngi ph trch mt mn
n, ty theo s trng ca mnh. Tr s ca n v phc v ny c xy dng vo
thng 7/1826, gi tn l Thng Thin S, mt ta nh c 7 gian.(22) N nm bn
tri sn trc ca Duyt Th ng (nh ht hong gia). i xng bn phi sn ny
l Thi Y Vin (cn gi l Ng Y Vin).(23)
V vic nu nng thc n v pha ch thuc ung cho vua (lin quan n Thng
Thin S v Thi Y Vin), triu nh a ra nhng bin php d phng rt chu o
v nhng hnh pht d kin rt nng n:
Phm vic pha ch thuc ca vua, m lm khng ng phng thc v gi li
ch sai lm, thy thuc (lm vic y) phi pht 100 trng, dng dc liu la
chn khng tinh, phi pht 50 trng. Nu lm cm cho vua lm thc g phi king,
th ngi nh bp phi pht 100 trng. Nhng thc n ung lm khng sch s, phi
pht 80 trng, chn lm khng c tinh tng, phi pht 50 trng; (ngi sc
thuc, lm cm cho vua) khng nm trc cc th y, phi pht 50 roi, cc quan gim
lm iu u c gim nh hn ngi lm thuc, ngi nu bp 2 bc. Nu quan
gim lm iu v ngi nu bp lm l em cc v thuc n ni lm cm ca vua,
th phi pht 100 trng, em nhng v thuc y bt phi ung. Cc ngi nu bp (
s lm cm ca vua) c s can phm, quan gim lm, quan iu bit m khng tu
ln, quan coi ca v quan th v khng d xt ra cng phi pht vi can phm....(24)
V vic khm bnh, k n thuc, bc thuc, sc thuc cho vua dng v vic
cc quan phi ung th trc khi vua dng, lut l by gi c quy nh mt cch
cn thn v rt ro: quan Ng y phi xem mch coi bnh ca vua, tham xt so snh,
hi ng vi vin cn thn [ca vua] n ni cha thuc trong ni bc thuc, em
nhng v thuc b thnh thang y k ra tng v ri nim phong li, lm bn khai r

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

31

l phng thuc g, tnh ca cc v thuc y th no, chuyn tr bnh g, di bin

ngy thng, Ng y v vin cn thn k tn vo ri dng ln, lm quyn s dng thuc,
khi bn tu xong, phi dng ngay s ph y, k tn vo di ch bin ngy thng.
Vin cn thn thu gi phng khi k cu n. Vic em sc thuc ca vua, quan
vin y cng vi vin cn thn phi trng coi sc hai nc, dn li lm mt, i thuc
k, chia lm hai bt, mt bt vin Ng y nm trc, ri n vin vin phn, ri n
vin cn thn nm c; cn mt bt th dng ln.(25)
Qua vi on chnh s nh va nu, chng ta thy cng tc t chc h thng
nhn s v tin trnh phc v cm n thuc ung cho nh vua c triu nh quy
nh mt cch cn thn v c bi bn. Cc lut l va nu xem ra c v khc nghit,
nhng ngh cng ng thi, v mc ch chnh ng l trnh s u c v nguyn
th quc gia. Cng chnh nh s cn trng y m trong s 13 v vua ca triu i ny,
khng c v no cht v cht c trong n thc ung c.(26)
D sao, trn y cng ch l mt s quy chun c ghi chp trong chnh s, cn
trong thc t ca lch s, khng phi v vua Nguyn no cng p dng nguyn tc m
thc ging nhau nh th. Ty theo th trng v s thch c nhn m quy cch Ng
thin v cc mn Thng thin ca tng vua c khc nhau t nhiu nh trn ni.
Nu vua Gia Long n ung n gin th vua Minh Mng li c ch m thc
rt cu k nh nu. Ngoi ra, ngi ta k rng trong mi ba n, vua Minh Mng
c dng mt t ru thuc kch thch tiu ha, n cho ngon ming. Thang thuc
b dm ru do Ng y L Quc Chc b ra dng ln cho vua Minh Mng dng
t sau ngy nh vua ng quang. Trong dn gian, tn gi ca thang thuc b ny l
Nht d ng giao hoc Minh Mng thang. Thang thuc c bit v ni ting ny
c lu truyn vi nhiu bi thuc khc nhau, trung bnh mi bi thuc gm t 22
n 25 v thuc. T vi chc nm qua, n ang c ch bin v sn xut hng lot
vi nhn hiu Minh Mng thang bn nhiu ni trn th trng ni a v mt
s nc ngoi.(27)
Di thi ng Khnh (1886-1888), mt quan chc Php tn l F. Baille c dp
c vo thm ving hong cung Hu v ghi li vic n ung ca nh vua nh sau:
Hng ngy, vua ng Khnh n cm 3 ln, vo lc 6 gi sng, 11 gi tra v 5
gi chiu. Mi bui n c 50 mn khc nhau do 50 u bp nu nng cho Hong
cung. Mi ngi lo nu mn ring ca mnh v khi chung th trao cho m th v
a qua on thi gim. Cc ng ny li chuyn n 5 cung n v ch c my nng
mi c hn hnh qu gi hu cm c Vua. Ngi nhm nhp vi mn n v ung
mt th ru mnh c bit ch bng ht sen vi cc loi cy c mi thm. c vua
ng Khnh dng ru cht Bordeaux theo li khuyn ca cc y s gip tng
ph hi yu.
Go c Vua dng phi tht trng v chn la tng ht, nu trong ni t, mi
ln nu xong th p b. a vua dng phi vt bng tre va mi tr l v thay
i hng ngy, loi a ng khng tin dng v hi nng i vi tay nh vua. S
lng go phi c xem k v cn tht ng, khng bao gi nhiu hay t hn. Nu
c Vua khng n nh ngy thng, nu Ngi khng thy ngon ming th Ngi gi

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Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

cc vin Ng y n xem mch bc thuc. Mi ln dng thuc, Ngi bt cc Y s ung

trc mt Ngi.(28)
Tng truyn go cc vua dng l go de trng cnh ng An Cu, mt loi
go ngon ni ting mt thi t Thn kinh. Go nu trong ci om t nh do lng
Phc Tch (cch Hu khong 30km v pha ty bc) sn xut hng lot cung ng
cho i Thng Thin. ng thi, c mt ngi trong V Thng Tr chuyn ngi
vt a v tm tre cho vua v hong gia dng. y l loi tm c bit, gi l tm
bng, c lm bng mt loi tre rt tt. V hnh dng v kch thc, tm ny khc
hn nhng loi tm m chng ta dng hin nay. N di chng 20cm, thn chut trn,
mt u c ng knh khong 5mm, vt thon dn thnh mi nhn u kia. u ln
ca tm c ch ra thnh hng chc mnh nh nh si ch, p dp cho mm, ri lt
ngc ra chung quanh u tm. u nhn dng xa rng, u mm dng chi
rng cho sch. u tm ny trng ging nh mt a hoa ang n, ng l c gi
l tm hoa, nhng v hoa l tn ca b H Th Hoa, v vua Minh Mng, m vua
Thiu Tr, cn phi k hy, cho nn mi ni thnh tm bng (bng cng c ngha
l hoa).
tr, bnh chn ru v bt a vua dng, v.v... gi chung l Ng dng,
u t lm hoc mua t cc xng sn xut s ni ting bn Trung Quc.
s men lam ny c cc nh nghin cu m thut thi Php thuc trc y gi l
Bleu de Hu, ngy nay gi l s k kiu. Tt nhin, loi sn phm cao cp
ny rt qu him v t tin. T thi ng Khnh tr i, nht l di thi Khi nh
(1916-1925), cc vua cho t lm hoc mua sm thm nhiu dng bng s trng
men, bng thy tinh, bng kim loi... t Php v mt s nc phng Ty khc v
dng.
Hi trc nm 1975, chng ti may mn gp c mt cu thn ca triu
Nguyn l c Nht Lang, mt chng nhn lch s. C tn tht l V Vn Lang, sinh
nm 1896 v mt nm 1977. Lc sinh thi, c sng ti s nh 13 ng ng Thi
Thn trong Thnh Ni (hin nay, nh i ch v mang s mi l 144 ng Thi
Thn). By gi, ngi Hu thng gi c l c Nht Lang v c mang hm Nht
ng Th v di thi hai vua Khi nh v Bo i. Sau my mi nm lm quan
Th v bn cnh vua trong i Ni, c bit rt r cc sinh hot hng ngy ca vua quan
ti . C k cho chng ti nghe kh nhiu iu hu ch v th v, c th dng kim
chng hoc b sung cho nhng g c ghi chp trong s sch. C cho bit rng
k t khi lu Kin Trung c xy dng xong vo nm 1923, vua Khi nh khng
cn n ng ti in Cn Thnh nh cc vua tin nhim na m vo hn ti ta lu
i mi ny. y l ta nh 2 tng c kt cu bng b tng ct thp, c lp t cc
trang thit b tn thi, nh n in, qut my, toilette, lavabo... Ni tht c chia
ra nhiu phng: phng khch, phng lm vic, phng n, phng ng... Bn gh, t
ging phn ln c lm theo kiu Ty, nhng sn son thp vng chi li. Mi ba
n ca vua Khi nh c 35 phm v. Sau khi nu nng xong Thng Thin S, cc
mn n c mc ra t, a..., ri t vo cc qu hp bng g sn son thp vng, y
np li, mang i, c lng che trn cc qu hp. Ln n phng n ti lu Kin Trung,
nhng ngi phc v cn sp xp cc mn n li mt ln na, trng cho p mt. Khi

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

33

vua n (Ng thin), c mt quan Th v ng trc

v hai v quan khc ng hu (thut ng trong cung
gi l Chu thin). Khng c ph n trong phng
n nh di thi ng Khnh. Cc quan Th v t
Nht ng n Ng ng thay nhau trc lun phin,
v ny c nhim v xi cm, pha nc cho vua. Hai
quan ng hu phi l ng quan, ngha l nhng
quan Tam, T phm tr ln. Nhim v ca hai v ny
l ni chuyn vi vua cho vui, vua n thm ngon
ming. H c th ni th chuyn c, kim, ng,
ty, t chuyn ln n chuyn nh. a vua Khi
nh dng phi vt t g cy kim giao, mc nhiu
vng ni Bch M, cch Hu khong 50km v pha
nam. G cy kim giao c kh nng pht hin cht c
trong thc n. Nu trong c cht c th a s i
qua mu tm (?). Mi i a ch dng mt ln, xong
l b. Sau khi vua n xong, hai v quan hu c d
C Nht Lang (1896-1977).
phn. Cc mn trng ming ca vua bao gi cng t
ln mt khay y, gm nhng a bnh, tri..., u do cc b phi tn thay nhau lm
hoc mua sm cung tin. Khi no long th bt an, nh vua cho gi cc quan
Ng y ln bt mch b thuc. Sau khi sc thuc xong Thi Y Vin, ngi ta
ra chn (tc l bt), t vo mt ci tm, y np tht kn v dn nim phong li cho
k. Ngi ta t tm vo mt qu hp bng g, cng nim li lun. Lnh Th v mang
thuc ln lu Kin Trung, c lng che v quan Ng y i theo. D phng nh vy
ri, nhng trc khi vua ung, cc quan Ng y cng phi chit ra mt t thuc mt
chn nh, vi vua 3 vi ri ung cho vua thy tn mt chng thc l trong thuc
khng c cht c.(29)
n thi Bo i (1926-1945), c Hong ln Hong hu Nam Phng cng
5 ngi con (gm 2 Hong t v 3 Hong n) u sng chung ti lu Kin Trung. V
chu nh hng nhiu t np sng ca phng Ty, cho nn h u n cng mt
mm nh bao gia nh b tnh trong nc.
2. Quy cch d yn ca cc quan trong nhng dp l
Di triu Nguyn, ngoi nhng ba yn tic bt thng k dng chiu i
cc s b ngoi giao hoc cc tn khoa tin s sau cc k thi Hi ti kinh , triu nh
cn t chc nhng ba yn gi l vua ban cho cc hong thn v i thn. H c d
yn trong nhiu dp i l khc nhau: l Nguyn n, l oan dng (mng 5 thng 5
m lch), l Vn th (sinh nht vua), l Vn th i khnh (T, Ng tun i khnh),
l Trng dng (hay Trng cu: ngy mng 9 thng 9 m lch), l Tch in v.v...
Vo nm 1828, vua Minh Mng quy nh: Phm cc tit mng hng nm, gp
khi c in l vui mng ca nh nc, l c thng cho d tic yn, th vin Quang
Lc t cho B Binh la lnh, phi bt binh inh n s lm c phc dch, xong vic
ri v nguyn ng, khon ny ghi lm lnh.(30)

34

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

Vua Khi nh ch ta tic i cc quan ln

ti in Cn Chnh nhn dp l T tun i
khnh ca nh vua (28/9/1924).

Cc quan ln d tic ti in Cn Chnh

vo nm 1924.

n nm 1845, vua Thiu Tr xung d rng: T trc n nay, khi ban yn

i nh, v vic sp xp th t ch ngi n lc mi do quan hu t tu xin lm
cho tha ng, cha tng c nh l r rt. Nay chun nh: Phm hong t cng,
hong t, quc cng, qun cng v hong cha phong m trng thnh, c
ban cp o triu, cho php c d yn gian t, hu in Cn Chnh; cn hong t,
hong nh tui vn cho d yn nh Duyt Th. Cc quan trong triu nh: vn t
chnh v th t phm n quan, v t chnh v th tam phm tr ln cng cho d yn
gian t, hu in Cn Chnh. Ngoi ra, vn t t phm, v t tng tam phm tr
xung, ng c d nh yn, cng cho d yn dy nh T, Hu Vu. Khon ny
ghi lm l mi.(31)
Ngoi in Cn Chnh, T Vu, Hu Vu v Duyt Th ng, mt s ba nh
yn cn din ra Th V X, T, Hu i Lu Vin v cc nh tm dng ln trc
Phu Vn Lu...
Trong cc ba i tic nh th, thng c c Ng tu ln Bt trn (8 mn n qu
nht ngy xa: nem cng, ch phng, da ty ngu, bn tay gu, gn nai, mi i i,
tht chn voi, yn so).
Mt trng hp nh yn c th l vo nm 1924, nhn dp l T tun i khnh tit
ca vua Khi nh (vua sinh nm 1885), triu nh t chc mt ba tic ln ti in
Cn Chnh vo ngy 28/9/ 1924, trong c nh vua Ng yn cng vi qun thn.(32)
n thi Bo i (1926-1945), truyn thng ban yn cho cc quan ti in Cn
Chnh vn cn tip tc, nhng thng giao cho c Thng L (tc l Thng th B
L) thay mt vua lm ch tic.
Vo nm 1974, chng ti cng cn c thm mt may mn khc na l c mt
cu thn ca triu Nguyn, bit danh l Tiu S (1913-1989), nh a ch 93 kit 2
ng T Hin Thnh thuc khu vc Gia Hi, k cho nghe din tin v cung cch ca
nhng yn tic ti in Cn Chnh m c tng d hng. vo tui qu lc tun, c
vn nh r nhiu chi tit lin quan n mt ba yn, trong c mt s ng tc c
v khim nh, nhng c cho l c tht. C k mt cch vui v. Cu chuyn i khi

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

35

nh sau: Khi cc quan ngi c vo nhng bn tic dn sn th c Thng L thay

mt Hong ng li mi quan khch. Cc quan u ng dy, hai tay cm ngang i
a, knh cn x 3 x t n vua. Tuy ng ca
mi ngi l t n vua, nhng trn thc t, trng
c v cc quan x nhau, v h u trong t th
i din nhau.
X xong, va ngi xung th h bt u n. V
oai nghim b v thng ngy ca cc i thn
nh u bin i u mt... Sau , mt t mn
trn cam m v ln lt vo nm gn trong nhng
chic khn m cc quan mang theo sn.
Cui cng, khi bnh tri c bng dn ra
n trng ming, cc quan lng l a chng vo
trong tay o rng xanh lt na em v nh cho
gia nh.

C Tiu S (1913-1989).

C Thng L v my ng Th v qu quen
nhn nhng ng tc nh th, v h cho rng
l chuyn thng tnh, nn cng chng quan tm
lm g.

Chuyn k va nu c mt s chi tit c v kh tin, nhng xem ra khng phi

hon ton thiu c s. Chng hn nh trong sch i Nam lit truyn, Quc S Qun
triu Nguyn ghi li rng vo ma xun nm 1852, khi Tuy L Vng Min Trinh ha
bi th Nguyn n ca vua T c, vng lm cu th vi ngha L vua ban,
qut tin cho, th vo tay o em v, biu m gi nh c trng c huyn. Cu th
y c vua T c chu khuyn v chu ph l Cu ni ch tnh, ng yu.(33)
Ngha l chng ta c th ngh rng nh vua mc nhin cho php b ti mang lc vua
ban v nh gia nh cng hng. iu ny th hin mt nt sng bnh thng trong
tp qun truyn thng ca dn tc.
Trong mt bi cp n vn ha m thc Vit Nam cch y gn 20 nm, Gio
s Trn Quc Vng khi ni n thc khch mang thc n v sau ba n, vit:
Trong ngoi 60, ln lo/ ra lo, chng gy d tic lng (lc thp trng
hng), tic nc (tht thp trng quc), cc c ch n cm chng ginh ly
lc Thnh, lc Pht, lc Vua v c nh cng chung hng mi ngi mt t. Nh
ch cng t Thnh, Thn, Pht... mi khch, khi khch v bao gi cng c mt gi
di vo tay khch....(34)
y l iu m chng ta thng nghe din t trong cu c n c ni c
gi em v. C l hnh vi ng yu ny l mt m tc, mt nt hay trong vn ha
truyn thng Vit Nam, cho nn, mi n ngy nay, nhiu ni trong nc, nht l
Hu v H Ni, n vn cn c duy tr.
Ngoi ra, theo li k ca c Nht Lang, khi c mt s c sn do a phng no
mi cung tin, nh vi thiu H Ni, cam snh Thanh Ha, xoi tng Ph

36

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

Yn, da xim nh Tng, m vua mun chia st bt ban tng cho my i thn
hu cng, th vua sai lnh Th v t tng vt ln chu n c lng che, gnh n t dinh
ca mi v quan. i thn vo nu c c dim phc ny th phi mc l phc vo,
quay mt v hng bc vi 3 vi t n vua, ri mi nhn qu vua ban.
***
Qua s tm hiu bng nhng nt chm ph v Quy cch m thc cung nh triu
Nguyn trn y, chng ti tm a ra mt s nhn nh nh sau:
- m thc cung nh triu Nguyn c t chc v thc hin mt cch quy
c v c h thng.
- m thc cung nh triu Nguyn li mt di sn vn ha tinh thn (phi
vt th) rt ln lao.
- m thc cung nh triu Nguyn nh hng rt mnh m v r rt n m
thc dn gian x Hu t xa n nay.
- S phong ph ca cc phm v cung nh triu Nguyn gp phn l gii ti
sao x Hu ngy xa li c n 1.300 mn n (trong s 1.700 mn ca Vit Nam) v
hin nay vn cn lu truyn c 700 mn nh c ngi tng kim k.(35)
- Tuy chnh s triu Nguyn khng ghi chp g v cch ch bin hng trm mn
n cung nh (y l iu ng tic), nhng qua cc tc phm Thc ph bch thin
ca b Trng ng Th Bch v Nhng mn n nu theo li Hu ca c gio Hong
Th Kim Cc (dy trng ng Khnh c), chng ta cng bit c phn no v
phng php lm ra nhng sn phm c gi tr vn ha y.
- Vn quan trng hin nay l chng ta pht huy gi tr m thc cung nh Hu
nh th no cho c hiu qu. V nn chng thit lp mt b h s trnh ln cp Nh
nc, ri UNESCO c cng nhn l mt di sn vn ha phi vt th quc gia v
quc t.
PTA

CH THCH
(1) Ni Cc triu Nguyn, Khm nh i Nam hi in s l (di y vit tt l Hi in), bn
dch ca Vin S hc, Nxb Thun Ha, Hu, 1993, tp 9, tr. 61.
(2) Hi in, Sch dn, tr. 189-191.
(3) Hi in, Sch dn, tr. 61,191.
(4) Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, Khm nh i Nam hi in s l tc bin (di y vit tt
l Hi in tc bin), bn dch ca Vin S hc Vit Nam v Trung tm Bo tn Di tch C
Hu, tp 7, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, H Ni, 2009, tr. 27.
(5) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 67-68, 215-218.
(6) V Hng An, T in nh Nguyn, Nxb Nam Vit, California, USA, 2012, tr. 358.
(7) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 183.
(8) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 60-61, 182-184.

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

37

(9) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 232.

(10) Hi in tc bin, tp dn, tr. 109-111.
(11) Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, i Nam thc lc, bn dch ca Vin S hc, Nxb Khoa hc
X hi, H Ni, 1970, tp XXIII, tr. 252.
(12) Hi in, tp dn, tr.188-189.
(13) Hi in, tp 10, tr. 515-516.
(14) Hi in tc bin, tp dn, tr. 26-27.
(15) Hi in, tp 14, tr. 267. Tham kho thm: Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, i Nam nht thng
ch (thi T c), bn dch ca Vin S hc, Nxb Khoa hc X hi, H Ni, 1969, tp I, tr.
53; i Nam nht thng ch (thi Duy Tn), quyn Kinh s, bn dch ca Tu Trai Nguyn
To, Nha Vn ha (B Quc gia Gio dc) xut bn, Si Gn, 1960, tr. 77.
(16) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 267-268.
(17) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 287-288.
(18) Hi in, tp 8, tr. 354-357, 493-498.
(19) Hi in, tp 14, tr. 270-271.
(20) Nm nay 95 tui, b L Th Dinh hin ang sng mnh khe v minh mn ti ph Kin
Thi Vng, s 179 ng Phan nh Phng, thnh ph Hu.
(21) Dn dch bi Nguyn Phng, 82 nm Vit s 1802-1884, i hc S phm Hu xut bn,
Hu, 1963, tr. 14.
(22) Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, i Nam thc lc, bn dch dn, tp VIII, tr. 72.
(23) Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, i Nam nht thng ch (thi Duy Tn), quyn Kinh s, bn
dch dn, tr. 25.
(24) Hi in, tp 11, tr. 379-380.
(25) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 380.
(26) Trng hp ci cht ca vua Hip Ha (1883) v b triu nh bt buc phi ung thuc c
theo l Tam ban triu in l mt vn khc. Ngoi ra cn c mt truyn ngn cho rng
vua Kin Phc (1884) cht l v i thn Nguyn Vn Tng b thuc c vo trong thang
thuc bnh do Thi Y Vin sc cho vua ung; v vua ng Khnh (1886-1888) b ngi
Php u c khi cha bnh cho vua bng thuc Ty. Nhng c 2 ci cht theo li n nh
th u khng thy c t liu ng tin no ghi chp c.
(27) V Minh Mng thang, xin tham kho thm: L Nguyn Lu v Phan Tn T, Vua Minh
Mng v Vin Thi Y triu Nguyn, Nxb Thun Ha, Hu, 1998, tr. 185-217.
(28) Dn dch bi L Hng, Vi hnh nh Vit Nam vo cui th k th 19, Vn ha tp san,
Nha Vn ha (B Vn ha Gio dc v Thanh nin) xut bn, Si Gn, s 4, 1973, tr. 76.
(29) V hai thut ng Chu thin v Ng thin, xin tham kho thm: V Hng An, sch
dn, tr. 130, 458 (Hc gi V Hng An tn tht l V Vn Dt, l con trai ca c V Vn
Lang, hin ang nh c Hoa K).
(30) Hi in, tp 7, tr. 33.
(31) Hi in, tp dn, tr. 34-35.
(32) H c Hm, phmrides Annamites, Bulletin des Amis du Vieux Hu, 1925, tr. 203.
(33) Quc S Qun triu Nguyn, i Nam lit truyn, bn dch ca Vin S hc, Nxb Thun
Ha, Hu, 1993, tp III, tr. 108.

38

Tp ch Nghin cu v Pht trin, s 2 (128) . 2016

(34) Trn Quc Vng, Vn ha m thc trn nn cnh mi trng sinh thi nhn vn Vit Nam
ba min Nam Trung Bc, K yu Hi ngh khoa hc Bn sc Vit Nam trong n ung, Thnh
ph H Ch Minh, 1997, tr. 20.
(35) Dn theo Hong Ph Ngc Tng, My c trng ca vn ha n vng Hu, K yu Hi
ngh khoa hc Bn sc Vit Nam..., dn, tr. 59.
TM TT
Bi vit kho cu v m thc cung nh triu Nguyn qua hai phn chnh: 1) Cc t chc
v nhn s phc v n thc ung trong cung nh; v 2) Quy cch n ung hang ngy ca nh
vua v phong thi d tic ca cc quan trong nhng dp l ln. T , tc gi kt lun:
- m thc cung nh triu Nguyn c t chc v thc hin mt cch quy c v c
h thng.
- m thc cung nh triu Nguyn li mt di sn vn ha ln lao, th hin qua hng
trm mn n thc ung cn truyn li n ngy nay, trong m thc Vit Nam ni chung v m
thc Hu ni ring.
- Tuy chnh s triu Nguyn khng ghi chp g v cch thc ch bin cc mn n cung
nh nhng qua mt vi tc phm nghin cu kh tn hin c, chng ta cng bit c phn no
v phng php lm ra nhng sn phm c gi tr vn ha y. Vn quan trng l lm th no
pht huy gi tr m thc cung nh Hu cho tht hiu qu. V nn chng thit lp mt b h
s trnh ln cp Nh nc, ri UNESCO c cng nhn l mt di sn vn ha phi vt th
ca quc gia v quc t.
ABSTRACT
SOME FEATURES ABOUT THE ROYAL CUISINE UNDER THE NGUYN DYNASTY
The article studies on the royal cuisine under the Nguyn Dynasty in two main parts: 1) The
organizations and their staff serving food and drink in the palace; and 2) Daily table manners of
the Emperors and the banquet etiquette of the officials. Then, the author presents his conclusion:
- The royal cuisine under the Nguyn Dynasty was organized and carried out methodically
and systematically.
- The royal cuisine under the Nguyn Dynasty is really a great cultural heritage, reflected in
hundreds of dishes which are passed downfrom generation to generation in Vietnamese cuisine
in general and in Hu cuisine in particular.
- Although history written by the Imperial Court of the Nguyn Dynasty does not record
any recipe for Hu royal dishes, we partly know about the method of cooking them. The most
important thing is how to promote the values of Hu royal court cuisine efficiently. Is it advisable
to submit documents to the government and then to UNESCO for recognition as a national and
international intangible cultural heritage.