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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11
TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W
OR
DV
IE
TN
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Women

Contents
Nov.2016

84

62

96

THE TALK

emergency it will save your life

EAT & DRINK

10 / Safe From Harm

22 / The Hidden Houses of
Hanoi

104 / Six Shades of Vegan
Green

Assault in Hanoi is on the rise

11 / The Big Five

November in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS
12 / Casting the Net

Finding a sustainable way to save
our fishing stock

14 / The Library

Bringing reading culture to
Vietnam’s youth

16 / Hanoi International
Women’s Club

25 years young and going strong

18 / *9999

A number to remember. In an

2 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

One woman’s search into Hanoi’s
glorious past

INSIDER
58 / Sister Act

Most salads have animal products in
them. These ones don’t

110 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
This month: Cousins

Two nuns, two churches, two
different paths to the future

112 / Xoi Xiu

62 / Building Quest

114 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Behind the scenes at Vietnam’s
premier music and arts festival

68 / Women

A celebration of this country’s
women and the difficulties they face

Sticky rice with char-siu pork
Twenty21one gets some positive
feedback

116 / Banh Tam Bi

A dish from the Delta that mixes
savoury with sweet

96 / Chup Dao

Life on the streets through a camera
lens

116

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but they’re a little bit different 124 / Inside Phong Nha 156 / Top Eats 162 / City Map COLUMNS 146 / The Alchemist 148 / The Therapist 158 / Medical Buff 160 / Starting a Family There’s a lot more to do in Phong Nha than visiting the caves HCMC 36 / To Do List 132 / Destination Zero 1 44 / Just In 172 / Body and Temple 134 / Destination Zero 1 166 / HCMC City Guide 174 / Location.Contents Nov. the country representative for UN Women . Location 138 / Notes From Another City 168 / Day Tripper 179/ Saigon Stories HANOI 180 / Bar Stool 194 / Know Your City 48 / To Do List 184 / Coffee Cup 54 / Just In 188 / Top Eats 1 FINAL SAY 198 / Antibiotics: Cure or Curse? 140 / Hanoi City Guide 190 / Top Eats 2 142 / Day Tripper 196 / City Map 4 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.2016 124 134 138 TRAVEL 150 / Bar Stool 118 / Banteay Srei 152 / Coffee Cup They’re part of the temples of Angkor Wat. Location.com 161 / A World of Good Bacteria are putting up a fight 200 / Ten 10 Meet Shoko Ishikawa.

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Don Wills.com hai@wordvietnam. Kaitlin Rees and Nha Thuyen.com ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam. JULIE VOLA Photo Editor All the women who work to the bone in the streets every day doing the jobs nobody else wants to do.com MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam. TP. Lee Shayi. CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604. Douglas Holwerda. BILLY GRAY Contributor I’d love to be original and throw a spanner in the works. Dr. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. All the women who sacrifice so much to raise their family.tranphuprint. she’s put up with our family along the way. Tp. So 7 Café. Mai Khoi. Only when you are older and have kids yourself you can recognise the true sacrifice and the depth of motherly love.3825. MATT COWAN Staff Writer Of course it’s my mum. What isn’t there to admire? The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.5 x 27cm In tại Công ty Cổ phần In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng. GIZ. Mia Nha Trang.vn Website: www. Quận 3. Dr. Chi Anh Dao. All the women who have to make the most difficult decision. no matter what my situation is.com TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Marika Vilisaar. Rogue. raising me and my brother while blasting through law school. All the women who fight for people who have no voice. NICK ROSS Chief Editor Simple. Pham chi lan. She’s tough. but hey. Karen Gay. ISSP. Mã ISBN: 978-604. and on top of it all.3841 – Fax: 04. Without her. Hoàn Kiếm. Family Medical Practice.com ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam.com MATTHEW COWAN Staff Writer matt@wordvietnam. New World Hotel. Huyen Tran.com DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạo. she’s funny. My mom is also amazing. Heyday Beer Club. Twenty21One. I’m gonna hedge my bets and say they’re both rock stars.com SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com Website: www. I would not be here. Shoko Ishikawa and David Legard Word is a registered trademark. 1. worked in more trades than most can list over the years. Quyết định xuất bản số: 758/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 28 tháng 10 năm 2016.com JULIE VOLA Photo Editor julie@wordvietnam. as well as a full-time mother and an amazing role model. she’s a homemaker.com JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.77-2500-7 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO . ZOE OSBORNE Staff Writer My mum — I’ve always looked up to her as someone who works hard and complains little. she’s intelligent.77-2500-7 6 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. All the women who survive physical and sexual violence.Duong Huynh Advertising JSC © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C. because we all know how hard it can be. Q. MADS MONSEN Creative Director Gratitude to my mother. having two kids in a yearand-a-half and putting up with me. She’s run two businesses. Nguyen Hoang Oanh. HCM.HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam. She’s a mother of three and has just completed a Bachelors in Nursing which she took part-time while caring for us all. thegioipublishers. Dallas Waines. she knows how to look good and she’s my partner in life. Sancho Cantina. Mike Palumbo. MIKE PALUMBO Contributor My mother is the most strong hearted and highly motived woman in my life. She raised three rat bag boys and a daughter who have all turned out pretty ok. Tran Cam Thu. Irene Öhler. Dana Mcnairn. Nic & Lisa. She puts us kids first and herself always last. khổ 20. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh. She’s now a fully registered and practicing nurse. Kathy Uyen.com In 15.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam. Le Thuy. Linda Mazur. Chao Downtown. Youth Culture Library. mine is my mum. Easy Tiger. She is the only person that I know who has the patience of a saint and will always be there for me whenever I need her.wordvietnam.com BAO ZOAN Staff Photographer baozoan@wordvietnam. Project Sprouts. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 11 năm 2016. Edward Dalton.com CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.vn CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN: TS. www. © Word .com Giấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 1577-2016/ CXBIPH/15-86/ThG. Ed Haysom. she’s a businesswoman. Phil Kelly. May Taste. Jonathan Halevy. Phường 8. Anupa Horvil. Theo Lowenstein. HIWC. Reng Reng.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers. she’s a good mother. All the women who fight and win to make their way to the top. Leah Rolando. Mai Vu Pham. Bennett Murray.com hai@wordvietnam. Greg Ohan. Sao Mai.3826. Hà Nội Tel: 04.com VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam. My wife. HARRY HODGE Contributor My wife is a trooper. Nga Le.com NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam. Saigon Ink. Trần Đoàn Lâm Biên tập: Phạm Trần Long Thiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao Ross Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNH CÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH 158A Võ Thị Sáu. Cousins. Spice Temple.Contributors This month we asked our team to tell us about the woman they admire the most and why. JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer I’m in awe of every woman who’s ever stood up for herself. She’s always looked out for me and my two sisters.000 cuốn. Harry Hodge.com ZOE OSBORNE Staff Writer zoe@wordvietnam.

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uncertain and full of fears.com/word. of which many are alcohol-related. to suggest that it’s acceptable to stop on a motorway to drink and climb over the side of a bridge as part of that experience is at best questionable. which has led to incredibly destructive behaviours in the West. but I don’t think you can get a perspective on the present without having respect for the past and what got you here. Where to BYOB Quite apart from endorsing public drinking. The past is being destroyed in Vietnam. why would you do it in your host country? Quang Ba / TayHo My concern with these articles are that they completely ignore the social and environmental destruction of the neighbourhood community and the parody of itself that the place has become. August. 9. whatever barriers and intolerances arise. it’s a shame that it was pitched as a quaint travel pastiche. A Personal History A great read. we didn’t realise that in the meantime the UK would appoint a female prime minister and that the magazine would be published against the backdrop of the US presidential election. too. real and imagined. We know that some people won’t like what we’ve done. — Nick Ross. and the environment is continuing to degrade. One ugly theme that appeared in soundbites was the treatment of women by the Republican candidate. creating our monthly ‘masterpiece’ has been a challenge. we look forward to hearing from you. women past and present who have achieved great things. Chief Editor CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH. Not all progress is positive. Whatever political directions we take globally. No matter how hard you try. Instead it is a celebration of women in Vietnam. So how do you make people of all persuasions realise their importance in the light of growing pressure to be intolerant and fearful of others? We’ve tried to do this in our cover story and cater for everyone.vietnam — or via Twitter. And we know that others will think we’ve been too tame. the new president-elect might be a woman. on domestic violence and the economy. October 2016) and A Short History of TayHo (Page 88.com Some Concerns I am writing with regards to three pieces: Where to BYOB in Hanoi (Page 90. Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so. The infrastructure is collapsing and will completely do so once the large apartments are completed. Friday nights look like a refugee camp from a Bob Marley concert and many. you can’t please everyone. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts. It created widespread anger. many small Vietnamese businesses have been squeezed out to make way for mediocre western fare or what caters to that market.— DH . this month’s cover story is not about the presidential election — blanket media coverage has already been devoted to the topic. October 2016). the present one has been nasty. You wouldn’t advocate those behaviours in your home country. ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. One of the best issues you’ve done this year. but it’s made for obsessive viewing. they should not be allowed to threaten the advances in gender equality that have been made over the past century. So let us know on Facebook — facebook. It’s not even tongue-in-cheek funny. As presidential elections go. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS W o men THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS W OR DV IE TN AM . I was disappointed see that an idea would be to drink on the Nhat Tan Bridge. — TW The General Sciences Library. 2016. and what needs to be done to bridge the equality gap in this country. @wordvietnam. It’s one of my favourites buildings in Saigon — NVK Good to see some focus on history. The one true statement is that the rich have benefited at the expense of the rest. Yet with this election festering in the background. We live in an age which is difficult. The recording of him discussing female conquests and his prancing around on stage behind his female opponent during the second televised debate were two of many faux pas that alienated large portions of America’s female voters. and progress which deeply affects a long standing community is actually a step back. You had an opportunity to highlight some of these issues in writing the pieces. who showed that he had a less than exemplary view of the opposite sex. Fortunately. and with a growing worldwide reaction against political correctness. I’m not nostalgic. — JL 8 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam.Prelude W e plan our cover stories months in advance and when in March we pencilled in an issue devoted to women for November. com — we’re at your fingertips.C OM The THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising Have Your Say We know you’ve got feedback.Having seen so many motorbike fatalities in Vietnam. By Nov. 2016) and the two articles on The Transformation of Quang Ba (Page 16. It also focuses on the raw deal women often get. I love that building.

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 9 .

The woman affected posted on the Facebook group. the group that carried out the attack was executed as a lesson to others. After 50 years of war. The man was lying in wait for someone to come along. “Take care around West Lake after dark. Until these people are caught. But it was a sign of times to come. It was not late. get the police. “[They] brushed it off to the side and took no DNA evidence. her experience at the French Hospital was terrible. West Lake. She got away. Hanoi Massive . you didn’t encounter physical danger. There is obviously at least one man prowling the West Lake area of Hanoi as well as one or two other groups of men searching out victims. They need to be caught. A few people nearly caught him but he always got away. The victim reported the incident to the US Embassy whose security team got involved. During the early part of the last decade it was very safe.com Facebook Group. If you see them. When the journalist was stabbed. When she came off the bike he chased her down the road. Her boyfriend survived. I kicked him when he stopped behind me. He was doing it on and off for years. If you see someone in need. If you’re on your own. The physical safety of women is at stake here and it needs to be protected.A New Era. Then several fishermen pulled me away from him and called the police. write down their licence plate number. They would mention the poverty. The street was illuminated well.Talk Lead Safe from Harm Assault is on the rise — and a new target is female expats A t the turn of the century. She was lucky. A British journalist walking home by herself in Saigon’s District 3 was stabbed. After Dark The latest concerns for physical safety have come in the West Lake area of Hanoi. and you are able to help. Take care and be safe!” This is not an isolated incident. That’s common sense. didn’t get infected. But I wasn’t shy. causing her to crash. Action needs to be taken. but it’s important. talk to any Vietnamese about their country and they would say two things. I was fighting with him. “It happened to me half a year ago. However. — Nick Ross . the attacks will continue. And the girlfriend of an acquaintance died in a motorbike accident after her bag was snatched and the bike crashed. One person responded: “There used to be a guy on a Honda Dream with no plates buzzing around Tay Ho groping women at night. She survived and the wound. busy streets or grab a taxi. A Vietnamese guy on a motorbike (red helmet) was harassing her and had to be chased several times before he left the scene. that sense of personal safety was crushed. Take care. Around the same time another expat woman was attacked and beaten senseless by three men outside Sidewalk before being taken advantage of. which pierced her stomach. In 2008. stick to well-lit. “This is my story! Exactly!!” she wrote. she didn’t. Unless you found yourself in a motorbike accident — where at times foreigners would be on the wrong side of local retribution — or unless you had a bag snatched in Ho Chi Minh City or Vung Tau. Take Action Vietnam’s big cities are no longer safe. “We are a poor country.” We have also heard that last month a 17-year-old schoolgirl was assaulted in the same area.” A woman added her personal experience. If possible. especially if they are alone. Hanoi Girl Gone International. Last month this post appeared on the 10 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. “I had to intervene in what I believe would have been the sexual assault of a foreign woman walking on the lake road near Red River Tearoom (from where she was leaving) at around 9. When the woman had her arm cut off on Phu My Bridge in Saigon. the man was caught and went to prison. Then they would move onto peace. this time close to HRC. do so. maybe about 10pm. and I won.” they would say. Report them. and women need to take care at night. it amazed them that Vietnam was a safe place to live.30pm last night. Don’t turn a blind eye. A taxi driver was murdered this year by his two female customers after an argument over the fare. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City were the kind of places where both men and women could walk at night without fear of physical harm.” On the Prowl Two days later another incident occurred. Driving home. Since then stories have entered the press of women having bags snatched with their arms cut off in the process. a Vietnamese man tried to grab her off her motorbike. nor tested my blood for drugs.” wrote the poster.

There’s a reason for this — they want to make you laugh. 10 and 13 2 Hip German indie outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth tour Vietnam this month with shows in Hanoi (Nov. 1 CAMA ATK and Saigon International Comedy have been collaborating for almost two years now on bringing in professional stand-up comedians to Vietnam. turn to page 64 Many famous musicals have had long runs on Broadway and in the West End. keep your eye on the national press. Japan. Apart from the performances. but in the mountains of Northern Vietnam. Vietnam’s answer to Burning Man and Glastonbury rolled into one. HCMC and CAMA ATK. b. And to see a feature article on setting up the festival. France and Vietnam. 19 Around 60 plays by artists from over 20 countries will take part in the 3rd International Experimental Theatre Festival. Wanna see him perform? Well get down to Game On (HCMC) on Nov. 4. 9). but what we do know is that plays will come from China. The Soul Convention Complex is at 214-216 Pasteur. academic discussions on experimental initiatives of performances will take place during the event.net or ticketbox. 4. 1 Quest Festival 3 Secret Garden Son Tinh Camp. Co-organised by the Vietnam Stage Artists Association and the Performing Art Bureau. Q3. experimental theatre and a music. This month it will be performed at the Soul Convention Complex in Saigon. and one of them is The Secret Garden. Hungary.de/Vietnam. Quest has garnered itself a huge following over the past three years. Hue (Nov. he comes to Vietnam with a long list of laugha-minute accolades to his name. Ba Vi Nov. visit goethe. Entrance to the gigs are free. Eventually they’ll let us know what’s going on Stand-Up with Stephen Carlin Game On Saigon. 30 and Dec. 5. The next comic to grace our fine shores will be Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin. 1. Singapore. details were still unclear. It’s a little bit special! For more information or to book tickets. For more info on ticketing and performances. artists. 19. The official opening ceremony will take place on Sunday. You’ll laugh your socks off. and watch the show unwind. who is sent to live with her embittered. 30 or CAMA ATK (Hanoi) on Dec. her own personality blossoms as she and a young gardener bring new life to a magical garden which beckons the children with haunting melodies. live music. 4 At the end of this month. Hanoi 5 Nov. Go there and you’ll understand why.ly/secretgarden-vn or see our article on page 36 Von Wegen Lisbeth Tour Hanoi. reclusive uncle Archibald and her cousin Colin. playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics. Stephen Carlin will be the latest international comic to perform in Vietnam a. 10) and Ho Chi Minh City (Nov. Mary Lennox. Described by The Guardian as a comedian who is “ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up”.com | November 2016 Word | 11 . 9. 6. Danang and HCMC Nov.vn/quest-festival/en. At the time of writing. For more info turn page 42 and page 53 wordvietnam. Telling the story of an orphan. South Korea. click on questfestival. film features and art installations over multiple venues. DJs. 4 to Nov. For tickets and further info. 13 at the Hanoi Opera House. HCMC. Danang (Nov. The top events this month in Vietnam a b Quest comes to Ba Vi on the weekend on Nov.Big5 PHOTOS PROVIDED BY QUEST The Festivals. Stand-up comedy is different from the usual run-of-mill performance we see in Vietnam. 12 to Nov. 12 to Nov. performers. For info on the Hanoi and HCMC shows turn to page 40 and page 48 The International Experimental Theatre Festival 4 Around Hanoi Nov. For ticketing click on bit. 13). 4). Q3 Nov. Hue. workshops. 11 and 12 Quest Festival is bigger and better this year with a diverse programme of over 100 acts including musicians. Nov. which will be held from in theatres across Hanoi from Nov. but you’ll need to book your tickets in advance. 6 Soul Convention Complex. Supported by the GoetheInstitut. There will be two to three performances a day at theatres across the city. the event provides an opportunity for domestic and international artists to exchange experiences and raise their level of expertise and artistic quality. Von Wegen Lisbeth are young and funky. Germany.

com .Briefings National Casting the Net Finding a sustainable way to save our fishing stock 12 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

to fix the problem of poor handling and preserving of handline tuna. it will allow them to catch the best quality tuna. with $US400 as second prize. “Although we do practice law. “In this way.F ully exploited and over-exploited. ly/tic2016 wordvietnam. Overexploited means that fish stocks are on the verge of collapse. “If any of the innovations show the promise of being commercially viable. our two main focus areas are infrastructure and innovation.” says Marika. 25. On the Front Line Enter legal firm Frontier Law & Advisory. but nevertheless important. They’re behind a competition now under way called the Targeted Innovation Challenge. The Targeted Innovation Challenge is about solving a problem that is global and not specific to Vietnam.” The contest doesn’t expect entrants to have an intimate knowledge of the tuna fishing industry or know how to catch a fish. Frontier targeted aspiring innovators from diverse backgrounds such as engineering. refrigeration. click on bit. Phu Yen and Khanh Hoa provinces hauling in an estimated 14. A total of 25 teams are vying to be shortlisted once their plans have been submitted on Nov.com | November 2016 Word | 13 . their limit.000 tons in 2013. — Matt Cowan For more info on the competition. This is how tuna stocks in our oceans are now classified. the winning team or teams will have the opportunity to prototype them with Frontier’s guidance and support. More than 85 per cent of the world’s fisheries have been pushed to. data collection. Frontier’s initiative will at last draw positive publicity to the fishing industry in a country that has had to deal with so much negativity in recent times. The winners will receive $US1. Danang and Hanoi. Attracting Young Talent The Targeted Innovation Challenge has attracted entrants from universities in Ho Chi Minh City. there are now 2. Frontier legal specialist and project manager for the challenge. Because tuna remains among the most valuable fish in our oceans. so it makes perfect sense to do it in Danang.” says Marika Vilisaar. according to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF).” says Marika. Handline tuna fishing or handlining refers to small-scale fishing where a fisherman on a small boat holds a line in the hand while waiting for fish to take the bait. Nha Trang. methods for catching tuna have evolved at a much faster rate than have methods for their conservation and management. Teams then have eight weeks to innovate on that idea culminating in a Challenge Day in Danang in early December where they will get to pitch their plans to Frontier and key environmental and industry partners. Tuna is fished along the central coast of Vietnam. refrigeration. but another reason behind why the Challenge Day will be held there is because Frontier is excited by the potential of Vietnam’s third-largest city to become a centre of innovation. A significant reason for this is technology. or beyond. including some from the private sector. One key aspect is ease of use. 3 when entrants gained online access to a ‘challenge package’ for 24 hours revealing Frontier’s idea and outlining task requirements. “We’ve worked in various sustainable fishing projects before. In Vietnam. which requires participants to build on an idea that Frontier has already come up with. “It’s imperative that innovations are easily deployable by fishermen who typically catch tuna one at a time.000 registered vessels fishing for yellowfin tuna in the waters off Binh Dinh. Winners will have to come up with an innovative idea to build on Frontier’s initial scheme for improved onboard handling and preserving of handline tuna. “We really like the energy in Danang and we want to see it become an innovation hub. avoid down-grading and a loss of value from improper handling techniques.” explains Marika. including one in Vietnam. In fact.000. Danang as an Innovation Hotspot Danang is close to the major tuna fishing ports in Vietnam. there are organisations and companies investing resources to come up with solutions before it’s too late. IoT and material science among others. Fully exploited means there’s no more room for fishery expansion. However.” The challenge began on Oct. including a project in the Philippines where we tried to find an economically viable and environmentally sustainable fishing model for their tuna industry.

“He had this wonderful collection of zines and other literature. “We’ve hosted collaborative writing. Ed’s collection in Hanoi. hardback printed books.com The Library Bringing reading culture to Vietnam’s youth worthwhile project I was looking for. “Ed had a Youth Culture Library stamp handmade in Hong Kong. different art. “We are trying to figure out a way to get the collection into people’s hands — it deserves to be seen and read. with a Youth Culture Library sticker on every spine. so we organise the collection to fit in with every venue and with the people who would hang out there. “Ed told me about his idea for a library. “We’re not trying to exclude anyone.” Tom says. and so many lovely.” says Tom. black and white punk. comic jams. The Youth Culture Library is displayed in three different places — Chao Art Hostel and M2C cafe in Ho Chi Minh City. “So we’ve stamped every book too. and from next month. “We choose our spaces and allocate our collection to those spaces carefully. with two literary enthusiasts and a ticket to Hanoi.” says Tom. Ed already had the Youth Culture Library concept almost ready to launch when they met. “Ed had all the contacts. People are free to read the materials on site.” Tom says. I was so excited — it was exactly the kind of 14 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. poetry performances.Briefings National W ith outlets both in Hanoi and in Ho Chi Minh City. “Different people engage with different literature. doodles and arts books.” The Conception According to Tom.” The collection comprises a vibrant mix of zines. and the two became friends. the collection.” says Tom. Co-founders Ed Weinberg and Tom Sanders met shortly before Ed moved cities.” The Youth Culture Library story began in a Saigon flat. but aren’t allowed to take them home.” The Library is catalogued and collated online. and he hated to leave it sitting around in boxes. different atmospheres. “He just hadn’t taken the final steps. even some artwork ready to work with. the Youth Culture Library is going from strength to strength as more people discover it. graphic novels. talented people here have given their time and creativity to help us define our distinct aesthetic.” .” Now up and running. the Youth Culture Library is all about bringing rare and interesting literature to a whole new audience. “So far we’ve held events at Piu Piu. Chao Gallery and at M2C cafe. serialised graphic novels.” says co-founder Tom Sanders.

which makes it accessible to a wide range of people. “At the same time we want to make it accessible to everyone. Something will grab your attention and then. more like a visual artform than a set literary genre.” Tom and Ed see the Youth Culture Library as a way to encourage creativity. you will engage with it. in that moment. and each zine is different.” Despite this.” Tom explains. “Our first objective is to keep sourcing interesting. HCMC.PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN The Concept A free collection. HCMC and M2C.” Tom says. varied spaces to curate our collection. Working with designer Joseph Laity who will do all the visuals. For more information click on facebook. and any money we make from workshops goes straight back into growing the project. This includes a range of literature such as works on sustainable design.com/youthculturelibrary wordvietnam. “One great thing about this project is how it gets young people engaging with English through art. 188 Nguyen Van Huong. Q1. “The idea behind zine as an artform is something we are determined to hold onto. At the end of this month the main collection will move to Saigon Outcast.” The Future Recently launched. there is no escaping the fact that zine culture comes from a punk and DIY aesthetic. designed to encourage engagement with the collection. Q2.com | November 2016 Word | 15 . Hanoi’s library will be opening in December. “We want to share our collection with Vietnamese students who wouldn’t see this kind of stuff otherwise. One of the major components of the collection is the zine.” — Zoe Osborne The collections are at Chao Downtown. 121/61 Le Thi Rieng. “They make no attempt to contextualise anything for the reader — you just pick it up and start turning.” Tom says. “At the end of the day the library is and always will be free.” Tom says. “We want to reach a real wide range of people. Q1. 44B Ly Tu Trong. the two co-founders will also be running a number of workshops in each venue. HCMC. but also as a way of encouraging a Vietnamese audience to interact more with the English language.” says Tom. the Youth Culture Library is at the beginning of its journey. The zine medium is known for being broad. a photography library and a travel library. the Youth Culture Library has no other aim than to share contemporary literature with Vietnam. “Anyone can write or read a zine. One of the biggest challenges the library faces is finding that thin line between zine culture and Vietnamese social norms.

Briefings
Hanoi

Hanoi
International
Women’s Club
25 years young and going strong

“I

t’s hard to get away from this idea
that we’re all ladies who lunch,”
says Gill Lever, President of the
Hanoi International Women’s
Club (HIWC) since May 2015. She
remembers first arriving in Hanoi as the
wife of British ambassador Giles Lever,
and being taken to the club’s biggest
charity event by a friend.
“I was dragged kicking and screaming
to the Annual Charity Bazaar. I didn’t want
people thinking that because I’m married to
an ambassador, I’ll turn up with my scone kit
and go out to all the bazaars. But I realised it’s
this amazing event.”
The bazaar has been put on by HIWC
volunteers for 25 years, and since 2005,
the club has raised over US$1.1 million
for charities in Vietnam. It supports
everything from education and assistance
for families of autistic children, to child
healthcare and corrective surgery, to sexual
and reproductive health for disabled
women, to micro-financing for ethnic
minority women.

An Inspiration
In October, the club hosted its 9th Vision
Award for Inspiring Women, recognising Dr.
Khuat Thi Hai Oanh for her work as Director
of the Centre for Supporting Community
Development Initiatives, an organisation that
works to improve the lives of sex workers,
drug users, and people living with HIV.
“We’re trying to inspire our own
members and friends with examples of
women who have triumphed over some
quite serious obstacles.”
Women such as last year’s Vision Award
winner, Nguyen Thi Thu Thuong, who has
battled Brittle Bone disease from birth. In
2014, she used 10 years of her own savings
to open Thuong Thuong Vocational
Centre, a training resource where others
living with disabilities can learn skills for
employment.

16 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Support Network
Besides their efforts to enrich the lives of
Vietnamese women, the club acts as a strong
support network for expats.
“It’s difficult when you come to a new
country,” Gill says. “We’re very much about
supporting people who are new in town,
providing a source of friendship, advice, and
helping people get the best out of Hanoi.
What we’re talking about is giving them selfconfidence and know-how.”
To do that, HIWC has launched a new
website with an extensive list of frequently
asked questions, from finding a house to
paying bills to setting up a bank account. Once
a month, the club hosts a coffee morning,
where members new and old (and nonmembers, too) can network, exchange, and
support each other. There are also “night
owl” meet-ups, for working women with full
daytime schedules.

Diversity
The club, which officially began in 1991, now
boasts around 70 nationalities and close to 450
members.
“I’ve done quite a lot of work over the
last 18 months making our board look more
diverse,” Gill says. “I think we’ve got about
eight or nine different languages on the board
now, and four or five nationalities.”
Though it is very much a women’s club,
there are 10 men involved, and Gill isn’t
opposed to putting one on the board, too.
“My own professional experience is that it’s
better if you have a mixed gender dynamic…
times are changing, and we’ve made it clear
that we welcome men.”
“But, do men join women’s clubs?” she
asks. “They’ve always had their own.” — Jesse
Meadows
The HIWC Bazaar takes place on Nov. 27 at
St Paul American School. For more info click on
hanoi-iwc.com/annual-charity-bazaar or turn to
page 53. For more info on HIWC click on hanoiiwc.com

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 17

Briefings
HCMC

*9999

Remember this number. It could save your life

H

ow many of you know the
number for the ambulance
service in Vietnam? A quick
guess — not many. It is 115. And
if you are in need of emergency medical
treatment, you’re likely to get a taxi to
the nearest hospital, go to FV’s accident
and emergency department, or call a
service like Family Medical Practice or
International SOS.
Enter Dr. Rafi Kot, the driving force behind
Family Medical Practice, the first foreign
medical practice in Vietnam, and the person
who last month launched his EMR *9999
Emergency Response Service.
Based on the ProQA software developed
by the American company, Priority Dispatch,
which is used by the 911 service in the US and
in 52 countries around the world, Rafi has set
up an emergency response centre and bought
a fleet of ambulances where medical team are
able to work on patients inside the vehicle.
People call Star 9999 in an emergency
and get through to an operator called
an emergency medical dispatcher. The
dispatcher uses the software to ask questions
of the caller, and through the use of the

18 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

ProQA software system, it is determined
whether an ambulance needs to be sent.
Within 30 to 40 seconds of the call starting,
if transport is needed an ambulance team
will start getting ready to deal with the
emergency. In the meantime, the dispatcher
stays on the phone, helping the patient or the
caller to ensure that any immediate medical
needs can be taken care of while waiting for
the ambulance to arrive.

A Numbers Game

Dr. Rafi Kot

According to Rafi, the key to making this
system work is the phone number; star on the
keypad followed by the digits 9999.
“I’ve been harbouring this [idea] for a
long time,” he explains. “It started from
land medics and I understood that we need
to have a strong land logistical response.
Strong in terms of far-reaching, quick and
something we can work with. So I decided to
do a 115 service.”
The catalyst, however, was the discovery
that a telecommunications company in
Vietnam had started a star phone service. “So
I bought all the nines — every nine that exists,
I have it.”

Rafi’s next step was to get feedback.
During visits to four schools — two
Vietnamese and two international — he
asked the kids which number they would
remember. Their response? *9999.
“You can’t have an ambulance number
which is, you know, 08 117 68 654 and so
on. The star service is the accelerator of this
[project].”
He then started creating an emergency
response centre. Out of over 1,000 applicants
who applied to work in the centre, they
ended up with eight people. The International
Academies of Emergency Dispatch came over
to Vietnam to provide training.
Finally came the business model.
“We decided that US$25 per person, per year
is a price that people can afford,” says Rafi.

member, the cost of using the service starts at
US$80 during office hours and US$180 after
hours. If you’re in non-covered areas, prices
start at US$346, and in all cases, payment will
be dealt with after the emergency is over.
Rafi’s goal over the next two years is to
have 300,000 members.
“It’s ambitious and we won’t reach it,”
he says. “But for now I’m happy it’s only
a thousand as it gives us time to refine,
fine-tune and make sure we consider all
eventualities. This is an operation that once

you begin, you can’t stop.”
He adds: “The whole operation depends on
the number and people knowing the number
and remembering it.”
Which means lots of publicity. And
ensuring that everyone in Ho Chi Minh City
remembers these digits — *9999.
The EMR *9999 service operates in Districts
1, 2, 3, Phu Nhuan and parts of Binh Thanh. A
new district will be added to the service every four
months. To sign up call 0932 776971 or click on
star9999.vn

Membership
Since its launch on Oct. 1, the service has
gained over 1,000 subscribers. Numbers are
rising fast. There are no family or business
memberships — in an emergency it takes
too long to go through lists to check who’s
included and who’s not. Instead, membership
is on a name only basis. And if you’re not a

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 19

Briefings National 20 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com .

so that confirmed my search.” says Anna. Danis Nguyen stepped off the overnight bus from Nha Trang to Ho Chi Minh City with just the clothes on his back. I stopped thinking that way years ago.” In order to confirm what she thought about Danis’ work.” says Danis. and a dream.” Danis recalls. The World Atlas of Tattoo is a blend of historical and cultural overviews of tattooing in different regions of the world. Danis’ path to success has never been laid out for him. It helps me to re-energise. around 2005. he was recently included in The World Atlas of Tattoo as one of 100 contemporary practitioners highlighted as examples of the state of tattooing today.” Around the time of his travels.com | November 2016 Word | 21 . including the four days per week he tattoos.” — Matt Cowan wordvietnam. Overseas Saigon Ink attracts both foreign and local clients. But it wasn’t until he was 16 that his interest in tattoos emerged. I just think about now because the future never comes. “They find me online and fly in and fly out to get my tattoos. Now almost 40. He knew for certain at 12 he wanted to be an artist of some kind taking drawing and painting classes and gaining inspiration from the beachside environment of his hometown.” says Danis. Written by Anna Felicity Freedman. but perhaps the most surprising demographic is the growing number of Australians coming here specifically for Danis’ work. but I don’t hope about that. Danis says it’s potentially where part of the future of Saigon Ink lies. Eventually he found his way and threw himself straight back into his work.” “I found he was doing large-scale work at a high level of precision and artistry. Oversees “Things have changed a lot since then. “He was working in a variety of different styles that reflected global tattoo culture awareness and experimentation. And it’s paid off. One of Anna’s goals for the book was to represent a wide array of artists. he is exploring the prospect of opening a Saigon Ink studio in either Sydney or Melbourne. Back then.” He now oversees a business which has 11 artists tattooing full-time. they might well be A t 21. “I have a dream.” As a result of the interest from Australians. so I’m quite spiritual.Saigon Ink PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO Will tattoo parlours be the next nail shops? If Danis Nguyen has anything to do with it. “I’ve been to Nepal and India to study Buddhism. “I saw Guns N’ Roses for the first time and I saw a photo of Slash who had a lot of tattoos. Could this be the dawn of a new Vietnamese export to rival the success of Vietnamese nail salons in the West? Danis is circumspect in his response.” Over time. “I meditate and do yoga as a way to detox.” says Anna. Anna contacted a friend of Vietnamese heritage who travels to Vietnam regularly to see if she might be able to recommend someone. called Saigon Ink. an American tattoo history and culture scholar. who Danis says are looking for authentic Asian-style tattoos. In his words he “did nothing” for two years except learn how to meditate while he figured out what he was going to do in the next stage of his life. Eventually he’d put together enough money through various jobs and opened Saigon Ink in District 10. Authorities were quick to act on anyone tattooing. Danis stopped tattooing. enough money for two months rent. State of the Art So respected in his profession has Danis become. including some from places one wouldn’t expect to find extensive tattooing. There’s a calmness about him despite his preoccupation with everything going on around him. the prevailing perception of tattoos was that they were for gangsters. That’s when I knew I wanted to come to Ho Chi Minh City to learn more about art and tattooing. “I loved them from then on and I started doing some research. By the time he was 27. but still finds the time to sit down and chat about his life. While researching artists from Southeast Asia. forcing the culture deeper underground. he’d opened his first tattoo studio.” he says. Danis gained confidence in his tattooing ability thanks to hours of practice on his friends. Although he’s reluctant to discuss details. she came across Danis and was “blown away by his work. “I like to think that I’m someone who has changed the image of tattoos in Vietnamese society by encouraging others to look at it as art. “Around 30% of my clients are from Australia. “She suggested Danis.

Tiep and . an astronaut.” Linda became enamoured with this style of architecture because of its understated design. “One thing led to another. the home of the first Vietnamese architectural offices of Luyen. She’s just released her first book. clean lines. Hidden Houses of Hanoi. Photos by Julie Vola “A s a child. Beyond the Gates “Helpful people pop up in the most incongruous places.” she says. I wanted to be a ballerina. which act as an antithesis to Hanoi’s chaos.com “I fell into this project through the generosity of hundreds of people. like the sculptor Cao Thi Thanh Tha. Just as I was ready to call it a day. It demands too much concentration and revision. a vet. 22 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. who watched me dodging traffic trying to get a clear photo of 42 Trang Thi. getting to know its longtime residents and recording their stories. a guide to the art-deco houses near Thien Quang Lake where artists. she studied the neighbourhood. someone entered my life with new information or an introduction to someone who held the key to one piece of the puzzle.” says Linda Mazur. but I never wanted to be a writer. So my first challenge was the writing itself. intellectuals and mandarins lived in the 1930s. and simple geometry. Over eight years.Briefings Hanoi The Hidden Houses of Hanoi One woman’s search into Hanoi’s glorious past.

when it was easy to connect to the international community. nearly hit by a bomb that landed in Thien Quang Lake during the American bombings of Christmas 1972. whose family ruled Lang Son for 13 generations. when literacy rates grew. Hoc Tap. who painted Vietnam’s ‘Mona Lisa’. “It was a time when different factions in society began to voice their ideas. and Tran Van Can. and the office of the weekly Communist publication. “Most were designed by Vietnamese architects for Vietnamese families in a style which was au courant. Linda hopes her book can raise awareness and fan the flames of preservation — in the back she has included a map that can be used for personal walking tours of the area. Nguyen Tien Vo.” she explains. The law only protects temples. Em Thuy.Duc. an indication of the desire to be seen as modern. Over the years.” says Linda.” Preservation Preserving these structures is a struggle. “Their stories need to be told as a small window into the life of Hanoi during the 1930s and 1940s. communal houses and French colonial designs. She spent time studying entire streets like Nguyen Thuong Hien. pagodas. she took charge and cajoled the current owner. the composer of Vietnam’s national anthem. After seeing my mock-up book. Nguyen Van Cao.” Linda explored homes like 59 Nguyen Du. into opening the gate and giving me a grand tour of his home. the home of mandarin Vi Van Dinh.” — Jesse Meadows The Hidden Houses of Hanoi is available at bookshops throughout Vietnam and can also be found at Hanoi Social Club and Bookworm wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 23 . a ballroom for elite parties. The street was home to the famous painter Le Pho. “The houses in the book are special. Fortunately many historic houses are now being protected by private interests as nostalgia grows. it was used as a guest house for visiting dignitaries.

founder of the charity Project Sprouts. Separated from . Son La’s isolation has made it among the poorest regions of Vietnam. the local economy is mostly non-existent. with many local Muong and Black Tai locals unable to speak Vietnamese.Briefings Hanoi Helping the Most Isolated Learn Project Sprouts is helping schools in one of Vietnam’s remotest and poorest provinces T he mountainous province of Son La is among Vietnam’s most beautiful. With a 2015 poverty rate of 29. the mineral resources have been depleted and the company is closing shop. Harsh These students. While the schools theoretically take students through the national curriculum. 24 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. “A teacher will get something like one pack of pens. said the schools were little more than a hollow building. South of Sapa and next to the Laotian border. Largely untouched by the bustling development only a few hundred kilometres away in Hanoi.” says Anita Hummel. Their main donations are supplies for the state schools.com Basic services are lacking. Nada Louw. tourism is non-existent. president of Sprouts. which distributes school supplies in the area. are the lucky ones as many don’t have the chance to study. the ethnic minorities who inhabit the mountains grow corn for pig feed in rocky soil up the slopes for as little as US$15 a month. “What was once bad will become much worse. Apart from agriculture. Unlike neighbouring Sapa. She recalled one school that had 175 students but no toilet.4 percent according to government statistics (the national average is 9. Son La’s peaks are the easternmost extension of the Himalayas. Since 2014. however. Support While the area has had some basic support — such as doctor visits — from a nearby Australian-owned aluminium mine. Hummel and her team have made regular visits to the remote communities of Vietnam’s far northwest in Son La with supplies for a community left behind by the nation’s fast growth. the clocks move slowly in Son La. one box of chalk for the whole year.8 percent). one ream of paper.” says Hummel. resources are slim for teachers and students alike.

More crucially. “It’s not just money we’re looking for. some people have skills. If they don’t have the money they can use their skills. Hummel said Sprouts does their best to give these children warm clothing for the harsh winters in the mountains. we will.” says Offner. the ones not at school are the hardest to reach. and if we can help some of the others.” says Hummel.PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PROJECT SPROUTS the state safety net provided at the schools. All clothing items are accepted. “Life was getting better. click on project-sprouts.” she says. and she said every day she dreams of going to school. however. She recalled one time she was temporarily forced to turn away a group of siblings who tried to get blankets with the students. “We’re going to help the kids.” says Hummel. with volunteers with knitting skills encouraged to make winter hats. with what they can’t donate being sold on the streets to raise funds. Working with limited resources. Trips. the volunteers won’t be able to sleep in the mine facilities. With the mine closed. “The kids were lining up there in the cold shivering with just flipflops on… but we only had enough blankets for the kids in school. and some people have money. “One little girl walked 25km from her home town. Hummel asked the girl leading the children where they had come from. Time and energy is also accepted. leaving the communities more isolated than ever. She had to leave school at age nine years old to help her parents out in the fields. Offner says they did their best to at least supply the schools while helping other children as far as they were able. the villages have now lost all their non-farming jobs. will become increasingly difficult.com wordvietnam. and roads will fall into disrepair. Drive Sprouts relies on donations from Hanoi — they are currently trying to collect 750 jackets in a drive.com | November 2016 Word | 25 .” she says.” explains Offner. After finding the children some blankets. we know we can at least help the ones in school. with her little brother on her back. — Bennett Murray For more info on how you can get involved. “Some people have time. now it’s all being taken away.

Briefings HCMC PHOTO FRED WISSINK 26 | WordBYNovember 2016 | wordvietnam.com .

how do you ensure that every child has the ability to improve their reading level? ISSP’s answer is guided reading.” she explains.edu. what reading should feel and sound like in the classroom. it’s important that when new teachers arrive.” she explains. and where people tend to read in short bursts rather than over long. We feel there’s a partnership and that we all need to be heading in the same direction. how can we improve our student achievement and make reading a success for all our children?” The first step has been teacher training. The final goal is to embed the programme into the school’s culture. The collaboration has already started. “So we asked ourselves. “Sometimes there are cultural difficulties in getting our message across with regards to what the parents want for their children. Rae Lang. An adherent to the idea that reading enhances critical thinking. Reading the ISSP Way The reading programme started during the last academic year with the school obtaining some baseline data about their kids. “Reading gives access to information. a strategy which helps improve both the class as a whole and the class as individuals. [the teacher] is catering for different ability groups within the class. join their Open House on Wednesday. Nov. kids learn to ‘read between the lines’ and ask whether what has been written is accurate. Rae explains the idea.” She adds: “We strongly believe that guided reading is the bridge to independent reading. Guided Reading Children read and learn at different speeds.” says Rae. Reading is an enjoyment.” — Nick Ross For more information on ISSP and their reading programme.Read for Life A literacy programme that’s producing results I n a world where reading is less popular among children and young adults than it was in the past. and when you have a class of 20 children. they will move on to the next group. it gives access to entertainment. The children are divided into groups of four. ISSP held a week’s orientation for their teachers and since then have continued with the in-house professional development. and whether it actually makes sense. the deputy principal of International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP). all with different abilities and reading levels.” says Rae. and how we can make it better.” ISSP has achieved this by organising and continuing to organise reading-related activities that involve both the children and the parents. Once the teacher is finished with that particular group. she explains. because “at the heart of it is the child. At the beginning of the academic year.” The school has also hired a literacy expert from New Zealand who will spend two days at the school later in the year and create an action plan. is going against the grain. coffee mornings with parents and ‘A Million Page Challenge’. “Sometimes in the media. they know how the reading programme works at ISSP. This includes a book fair. so by the time she arrives her work will be focused on ISSP’s particular needs and the next steps in developing a robust reading programme. “Reading is the key that unlocks knowledge. “By doing guided reading. “We’ve looked at different reading approaches.com | November 2016 Word | 27 . She uses news reports in the media as an example. “Does that fit into my schema? What other research do I need to do? What do I need to find out?” Reading critically helps us decipher what is correct and what isn’t. things come across [and we have to decide] if we buy into it or stop and think about what was said. and the child comes first.” she says. reading picnics. “We found that 65 percent of our kids were achieving either at or above expected reading levels comparable to the US system. each with the same need. it requires being flexible. where the school as a whole will attempt to read a million pages by the end of year. It is the way to unlock your interest.vn/ reading wordvietnam. with the support of her school she is driving a new literacy programme designed to improve the reading skills of her pupils. But. five or six. The teacher will focus on that particular group while the rest of the class is working on reading-related activities.” Through reading and getting a deeper understanding of the book. is a passion. extended periods. With international school teachers often working on two-year contracts before moving on. 16 by clicking issp. a reading day where all the kids come to school in pyjamas. Another step is to get parents to buy into the school’s vision. This helps them with their critical thinking skills. “So it’s about building that bridge so that we’ve all got a common understanding.

Charity of the Month 28 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com .

Sao Mai

Providing vocational training in Belgium for those most in need

X

avier Mouffe never quite realized
his dream of running his own
bakery business, but he found
the next best thing — helping
disadvantaged teenagers and young
adults from Vietnam learn the bakery
trade in his home country of Belgium.
It was 2001 by the time that the first
Vietnamese street boy, Cong, made it to
Brussels; he stayed on the Sao Mai (Morning
Star) programme for three years. He spent his
time in Belgium studying French, working
hard dealing with the cultural differences,
learning his trade and living frugally in order
to send the majority of his wages back to
Vietnam for his family.
“[Cong’s] positivity is what encouraged
me to continue finding more students for
the apprenticeship,” says Xavier. Sao Mai is
an intense course in life skills and a built-in
family with Xavier and Serge Goossens, the
patron and mentor in Belgium.
It is difficult to obtain more than one visa
to Belgium from Vietnam for this programme
per year, and so the people behind Sao Mai
take great care to ensure that they choose the
best potential students for the job.

Speculation
“We can’t accept everyone, so we must ask
around,” continues Xavier. “Obviously we
want to help [teenagers and young adults]
who are struggling, but we can’t let this
opportunity go to waste.”

The Sao Mai team also spends a lot of time
fundraising by selling artworks from Vietnam
and Asian flavour-inspired speculoos, dubbed
speculoos zen, at Christmas time in Belgium, to
cover the costs for the students and guarantee
them a successful experience. Xavier comes to
Vietnam twice a year to see his “kids”, making
sure that everything is okay with them.
Nang Nguyen Manh, 32, is one of the
graduates from Sao Mai, having studied in
Belgium from 2008 to 2011. He is now the
owner of Goossens Ice Cream Shop in Go Vap,
named after his benefactor.
Manh proudly admits the influence Serge
had upon his life.
“He is a military man with a tough work
ethic, but he was patient as well,” he says.
Returning to Vietnam in 2011 still presented
its challenges, and at first Manh worked in
Metro, then took a job working for HaagenDazs developing their moon cakes and other
baked products. Even with the help from Sao
Mai, he still needed a lot of tenacity to get to
the position he is in today.

Launch Pad
That is what the baking apprenticeship offers
on the surface; the ability for the students to
cook, create and feed themselves and others.
The three tough years also sees the boys
developing skills they may not have normally
had access to; foreign languages, leadership
and intense dedication.
“I give them the first step,” says Xavier,

“but it is up to them to endure the challenges
they will face in Belgium.”
Most boys are eager to return home, and
that is the point of the programme — not to
absorb the boys into Belgium and European
culture, but to allow them to immerse
themselves in an intensive vocational and
linguistic education and come back to
Vietnam with valuable life skills.
It’s not easy — many of the past students
have struggled with homesickness, language
issues, and adjusting to the colder climate
of Northern Europe. But every student has
left the course and returned to Vietnam with
initiative, business savvy and gratitude.
However, it hasn’t all been plain baking, so
to speak. One student arrived and stayed in
Belgium for a time only to realise that he had
no passion for the trade, and wanted to return
home to become a hairdresser instead.
But the seven successful boys Xavier is
proud of will not be his last, and the Sao Mai
team are currently looking to take on another
apprentice in Belgium. The next student,
before leaving Vietnam, will have to complete
two months training with some of the past
Sao Mai graduates to test their dedication and
skill, a sign that the programme is developing
as time goes by.
“After everything I have been through,”
says Manh, “it’s my duty to teach others, [but
only] if they want to learn.” — Siân Kavanagh
To find out more about Sao Mai, or how you can
help, please visit sao-mai.be

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 29

Briefings
HCMC

I

Saigon Soul
As rainy season turns to dry, enter the pool parties

magine a poolside in the centre of the
city in a five-star hotel. Fill it with DJs,
a bar and between 500 and 800 revellers
on a Saturday afternoon, pump the
place with house music and then watch
the pool party take off into the night.
That’s what Saigon Soul Parties have been
doing for the past three years at the New
World Hotel. Running every week in the
dry season from November through to May,
they’ve become a fixture on the local party
scene. This year’s season will be no different.
It started in Taipei, Taiwan back in 2007
with the Havana Pool Parties founded by
Saigon Soul organiser Dallas Waines. In
search of a new challenge, four years ago
Dallas moved to Saigon.
“I started looking for venues shortly after
arriving in Vietnam,” he explains. “I wanted
to create a regular place for fun people to
get together to enjoy great house music with
affordable drinks around a pool setting.
After [convincing] the New World Saigon
Hotel it was a good idea, the Saigon Soul
Pool Party series was born.”

Something for Everyone
Saigon has always had an issue with
expats mixing with locals, and locals being
comfortable in a beach-like environment.
Dallas is aware of this — in particular a

30 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Vietnamese aversion to strong sun, and
differing tastes in music. As time has gone
on, his parties have transcended this divide.
“Each week brings in a nice mix of
Vietnamese, expats and travellers from all
walks of life,” he says. “Currently it’s 40%
Vietnamese and 60% foreign with a goal of
bringing in more Vietnamese. As more locals
[come to the parties] they are becoming more
accepting of our outdoor, fun-in-the-sun,
house music-fuelled event.”
Yet, he admits, music has been a problem.
And with each event having DJs spinning
house, deep house, funky house and techno,
it hasn’t always been to Vietnamese tastes.
“The Vietnamese aren’t quite used to
it yet,” he explains. “But they are slowly
coming around to our sound. Last season
we introduced a once a month Hip Hop Day
and plan on doing that again.”
Success, though, breeds success and
towards the end of last season, numbers
were up, with the closing fiesta last May one
of the most heavily attended events of the
year. The parties have even avoided a full
washout, although when they have had rain,
it’s started late afternoon and everyone has
stayed and partied on.

Body Beautiful?
For many the concept of pool parties can be

off-putting. The idea of body beautiful and
prancing around in swimming attire can
make them uncomfortable. According to
Dallas, this hasn’t been an issue. “We have
guests in all shapes and sizes,” he explains.
“We work hard to create an open and
inviting atmosphere for everyone. We do
not have a dress code, so people can wear
whatever they feel comfortable in.”
The key, he says, is that the events
are chilled, affordable and the crowd is
always friendly. Plus, the music has to
be good. This leads to an “amazing party
atmosphere,” according to Dallas. This is
why partygoers have been coming back
again and again.
Another key component is choice.
“Our venue has a lot of shade for people
looking to stay out of the sun, a shallow end
for the novice swimmers, in and out event
access, towel rentals, lockers and no dress
code. Our bar can accommodate those on
a budget, to the ones looking to splash out
on bottles of champagne and our five VIP
cabanas.” — Nick Ross
The new season kicks off on Saturday, Nov.
26 and runs every Saturday until May 20.
Entrance is VND150,000, drinks start at
VND50,000 and the party pumps from 10am
to 10pm. For info on DJ line-ups, special events
and more click on saigonsoul.com

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 31

Briefings
HCMC

The Winners

Vietnam’s largest amateur golf tournament came to Saigon last month

D

espite the heavy rain, golf
enthusiasts still came in their
droves to take part in the New
World Hotel’s fifth annual Golf
Cup on Oct. 22 at Tan Son Nhat Golf
Course. While no-one managed to grab
the ultimate prize, a brand new MercedesBenz, this year saw Dang Quang Duc
hit a hole in one, the first such feat in
the tournament’s history. Duc had more
success, too, winning both a runner up
prize for the whole tournament and the
lucky draw. Quite a day.
The three other top prizes went to Ko
Dae Won, Kim Jae Hong and Seo Seong
Man. The New World Hotel also granted
prizes for the longest drive, the straightest
drive, and the person shooting the ball off
the fairway nearest the pin. Here is the list
of winners:
Dang Quang Duc — Hole In One
Hirofumi Shiramatsu — Nearest pin 8C
Ryuta Aizawa — Nearest pin 5D
Edmund Ng — Nearest pin 8D
Marc Acorda — Longest drive 1D
Joey Sarroza — Longest drive 2C
Yuichi Yamashita — Straight drive 1C
The New World Hotel Cup is an annual
tournament that is part of the Mercedes-Benz
Trophy, a worldwide tournament run in 60
countries with the participation of 60,000
amateur golfers. New World Saigon Hotel is at
76 Le Loi, Q1, HCMC. For more info email oanh.
nguyen@newworldhotels.com

32 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

COM wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 33 .CH R I ST M A S O N T H E & D E C K N E W BY T H E Y EA R R IV E R HOLIDAY SEASON AT THE DECK CHEF’S SPECIAL MENUS DJ’S FIREWORKS BOAT CRUISE FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS PLEASE CONTACT E . I N F O @ T H E D E C K S A I G O N.THEDECKSAIGON. +84 (0) 8 3744 6632 W. C O M T.

Photo by Bao Zoan .Sports Digest She Will Be Strong Empowering women through sport. Words by Harry Hodge.

they offer free workshops for women under the concept “Discover and Create Your Most Beautiful You. 5-7. Merlo was top scorer in the V.500 square meters of training area with cuttingedge equipment. Director of SHB Danang Sport Stock Company. “It also builds mental toughness and challenges people to break barriers and overcome challenges. Yoga and basketball will be launched later this year or early next year. es pdatur u d n Se out yo p or ab g grou @ in ry o sp rtnt to har . meaning women will be happier. according to the sports centre’s website. according to Tuoi Tre. according to news website Van Hoa Online (VHO) run by the Ministry of Culture. but more integration to encourage female participation is needed.com | November 2016 Word | 35 . sports are a part of Vietnam’s education system. hoped that the club would attract lots of members and become a playground for sports fans and martial arts followers. enjoyed a US$7. Last week. geared to create tools for Vietnamese women to be fit in body and mind. Vuong Bich Thang. 44 silver and 43 bronze medals at the fifth edition of the Asian Beach Games (ABG5). In comparison. sponsored by ESPN W and The US State Department. One of the goals of the centre is designing professional training programmes to sharpen the skills of young fighters in Vietnam to prepare them for international competitions like the Olympic Games. The Argentinean striker has scored 92 goals between 2008 and 2016 for SHB. “Introducing sports in the school system helps provide a platform for cooperation. MMA Centre Launches in Ho Chi Minh City N ga Le has come a long way in the sporting world. the SSC is considered to be Asia’s largest Mixed Martial Arts and CrossTraining centre. The 28-year-old from Hue was selected to be the first-ever Vietnamese citizen to participate in the Global Sports Mentoring Program (GSMP). Argentine’s Passport Swap Bolsters SHB Danang The SHB Danang team has completed procedures to secure Vietnamese citizenship for Argentina-born striker Gaston Merlo ahead of the next V. “Sports builds confidence and character.vn or the group’s Facebook page for more information The operator of Saigon Sports Club (SSC). 6-1 to take the men’s singles title. setting an initial goal of claiming between 18 and 22 gold medals and making it to the top five in terms of medal count. Vietnam sent a total of 320 athletes to compete in 14 sports at ABG5. Nga and her six-person team have conducted numerous workshops. held an inaugural ceremony in Ho Chi Minh City last month. the website reported. Right now.Sport in Brief Aussie Claims Vietnam Open Title No 4 seed Jordan Thompson won the Vietnam Open tennis tournament last month in Ho Chi Minh City. The programme has been running for four years and selects and provides 16 female leaders yearly from all over the world involved in the sports industry to participate in its powerful educational programme. which began on Sep.” Visit shewillbestrong. all-time ABG medal count champion Thailand was the runner-up with 36 gold medals. according to Vietnam News. who played his first season for the team in 2016. once Merlo becomes a Vietnamese citizen he will no longer count as a foreign player. These sessions feature inspiring stories and organise activities to connect women together and encourage each other for positive lifestyles. with a strong belief in the mission of empowering women through sports. however local experts are more concerned than thrilled as it gave little indication about the development of the country’s high performance sports stars. sacrifice and mutual respect.” Workshops focus on concepts like health and fitness. Thompson. Vietnam Bags Medals by the Dozen Vietnam took the top spot at the fifth Asian Beach Games that concluded last month in Danang. The Australian came from behind to defeat Japanese rival Go Soeda. the fourth time he finished as the league’s top marksman. And she’s hoping to carve out a path for other Vietnamese women to boost health and fitness here. It takes place over six weeks in the US. “It opened up my eyes and mind to the possibilities and potential of how powerful women can be. I understand more about sports and women’s rights. who was the runner-up last year. and then make the change of every woman’s destiny in a positive way. who was seeded No 6. with the most recent reaching 60 participants.” she explains. 24. according to Tuoi Tre. “This experience transformed me. The non-profit organisation’s aim is to bring changes to women’s mindsets and routines. Covering 7. The unprecedented achievement of Vietnam’s team was not a cause for celebration however. “Often. 7-5.com eve vietnam word wordvietnam. A big-sister mentorship programme has been established as well. educate and support future women leaders. as many believed it did not reflect an advancement in the country’s high-performance sports. Speaking at the grand opening. most of all in sports. girls shy away from sports more than boys at an early age. the team re-signed Brazilian forward Teofilo Soares Eydison. The group is planning to hold more community projects and support education projects in the months and years to come. The aim is to inspire. He said the team revved up the procedure for him playing in the new football season that begins in early 2017. while sports giant China ranked third with 12 golds. creativity and taking action.” According to Nga. The team confirmed to Vietnam News that SHB would strengthen their squad with more foreign players in an effort to win the V. Bui Xuan Hoa said Merlo wishes to stay in Danang as his family is used to the city after having lived there for several years.League season. head of the Vietnam Sports Administration. according to Vietnam News. Vietnamese athletes bagged 52 gold.League 1 last season with 24 goals.200 payday and 90 points to improving his world ranking.” says Nga. Sports and Tourism. leadership. a Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) and Cross-Training centre.” she explains.League 1 next year.” On a Mission Nga returned to Vietnam and founded SHE WILL BE STRONG. The Vietnam Football Federation allows each team to play with two foreigners in a match.

HCMC. Nov. go to facebook. 4 A solo exhibition of oil paintings by Hanoi-based artist and Vietnam Fine Arts University graduate Nguyen Minh Nam opened last month in Ho Chi Minh City and will continue to run until Tuesday. With more than 700 performances on the stages of Broadway (New York. eclectic approach to electronic music to The Observatory on Friday Nov. The Observatory is located at 5 Ngyuen Tat Thanh.000 after 10pm. Mary is sent away from India to Yorkshire (England) to live with her embittered. Q1 Until Nov. Orphaned by a cholera outbreak. For more info. The Secret Garden tells the story of Mary Lennox. Palais De Danse) brings his powerful. Starts 9pm.com/ theobservatoryhcmc. 15 The Observatory. Orchestra Conductor Ian Alexander. 5. . Nam’s collection Fading Memories is the latest stanza in his ongoing work celebrating triumph over the inevitable losses suffered by traditional Vietnamese culture at the hands of Vietnam’s headlong rush into modernity. German Indie pop bands and DJs from overseas Art from the exhibition. a community theatre production being performed in Vietnam for the first time ever.com Glasgow-based DJ and producer Tre Turner (Envy Music.com 36 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. comedy. Q4. Q3. Fading Memories runs until Tuesday. 214-216 Pasteur. a young English girl born and raised in British Colonial India. 4. reclusive uncle Archibald and her cousin Colin. 2. HCMC Secret Garden Soul Convention Complex. 2 Fading Memories Tre Turner Craig Thomas Gallery. 4 1. Fading Memories Tre Turner will be on the decks at Observatory on Nov. whom she has never met. Tran Nhat Duat Gallery. US) and West End (London. With the combination of an international and local production team — Director Brian Riedlinger. Moving effortlessly between rare disco. Q3 Nov. Based on the book by Frances Hodgson Burnett. head to cthomasgallery. 11 and 12 Soul Live Project and Amberstone Media present the musical. Assistant Director Nguyen Do Anh Tuan —the shows will be performed entirely in English. 15 at Craig Thomas Gallery. 4. For more information. Q4 Friday. Nov.ToDo 1 list HCMC Exhibitions. Nam’s paintings portray an intriguing future-present where a class of liberated women are freed from antiquated notions of chastity and roles as mere appendages of men. Her own personality blossoms as she and a young gardener bring new life to a magical garden which beckons the children with haunting melodies. 6. house and techno. 27i Tran Nhat Duat. Free before 10pm. HCMC on Nov. VND100. The Secret Garden won three Tony Awards. 15 at Craig Thomas Gallery’s Tran Nhat Duat space in District 1. UK). a city-wide marathon. The Secret Garden. Q1. Tre will be joined on the night by The Observatory’s co-founder and resident Hibiya Line along with other resident Nic Ford. Secret Garden will be performed at the Soul Convention Complex. Nov.

com | November 2016 Word | 37 . Tay Ho Dist (08) 3824 0777 (04) 3934 0666 VUNG TAU No 1 Le Ngoc Han (064) 385 8776   wordvietnam.e flu shot Arm yourself with th u. before the flu gets yo HO CHI MINH CITY 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Dist 3 HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu.

Nov. All proceeds will go to Saigon Children’s Charity. Entertainment on the night will be provided by French band Gwenilli. Hotel Equatorial. 2. 19. and provide insight into its community. Balade en France aims to promote French culture through its gastronomy. cultures and people they represent collectively make up the character of Vietnam’s streets. Danang Nov. VND250. 6 at 2.000 people to attend. Entrance tickets can be bought at the door for VND250.com and Beatrice di Carlo. For more information. 13. nguyen@sopexa. Nov. 10 Till Von Sein will take over the decks at Heart Beat’s latest event night on Nov. In all their diversity. A Window on Vietnam Nick Faldo will host the Laguna Golf Classic at Laguna Lang Co on the weekend on Nov. VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien. Nov. 4 to Nov. The Equatorial is at 242 Tran Binh Trong. For ticketing click on bit. Nov. jam.ToDo 2 list HCMC 1 4. syrup. wine and entertainment. A British artist based in Ho Chi Minh City. 11 and Nov. Q2 Nov. Nov. 5. these windows have become a significant and re-occurring element within her artworks.000. The private viewing of A Window on Vietnam will take place on Nov. 10 to Nov. Q5 Nov. these different windows and the lands. from 6pm to 8pm. 13 For the second year. and Mindfulness on Nov. Nov. pate and chocolates to attendees. with a matinee performance on Sunday. this year there is the addition of a ‘French Market’ on Saturday.equatorial. 3. 4.000 (children under 14). Entrants will compete in men’s and women’s handicap divisions over 36 holes in a stroke-play format. pre-event tickets cost VND150.000 people Work from Bridget March’s latest exhibition. Nick will be on-hand to present prizes as well as to conduct pre-tournament golf clinics and . The market will give suppliers of French products the opportunity to showcase their cheese.com or Nguyen Quoc Dang Thanh on thanh. 4 and Saturday. However. 18 and 19 A collection that’s been two years in the making explores artist Bridget March’s fascination with windows in urban Vietnam. 5 from 9am to 3pm. Nov.30pm. 12 at 7. 5 The 7th annual French gastronomy fair Balade en France will be held at the Hotel Equatorial in Ho Chi Minh City on Friday. Bridget will be running two workshops alongside this exhibition — Working with Colour on Nov. Children under six are free of charge.000 (adults) / VND80.000 (adults) / VND150. 18 from 10am to 12pm.ly/ secretgarden-vn Balade en France Last year Balade en France brought in 2. 10 to Sunday.000. 11 1. 4. organisers are expecting 2. Nov.000 (children under 14). Please RSVP at info@vingallery. Check the VinGallery Facebook page for more information. Q2. HCMC A Window on Vietnam VinGallery.30pm. of whom 80 percent are expected to be Vietnamese. golf legend and Laguna Golf brand ambassador Nick Faldo will host the 2016 Laguna Golf Classic at Laguna Golf Lang Co on the central Vietnam coast from Thursday. contact Steven Nguyen Trong Khoa on fbmanager@hcm. She is drawn to the windows in Vietnam because they are often what distinguishes the urban landscape of different regions from each other. 5.com. Based on the success of previous years. HCMC Nick Faldo Laguna Golf Classic Laguna Lang Co. 4.com. March draws inspiration from her submersion into Vietnamese culture. Running from 6pm to 11pm each evening. 2pm to 3pm VND150. with performances from FrenchVietnamese singer Elvis Phuong 38 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Together. Q5.

11 4 MOVING? Nascent record label. promoter and community founder Heart Beat continues to enrich the Saigon techno scene with its unique selection of “underground body music”.com/golf or email van. a ball of energy behind the decks and a man of .000. Q4 Friday. For further information. Joining Heart Beat’s list of big name performances this month in collaboration with Goethe Institut is Till Von Sein. Nov.com Till Von Sein The Observatory.com | November 2016 Word | 39 . including three US Masters and three British Open championships.3 provide unique insights into his career that netted 41 protournament victories. Call Us wordvietnam. The tournament winner will receive a Banyan Tree Bintan unlimited golf holiday package and family lifetime membership at Laguna Golf Lang Co worth US$30. accommodation. go to lagunalangco. welcome party and gala awards dinner. and cost US$999 (single) US$1.555 (couple). Packages include tournament play with shared caddy and buggy. le@lagunalangco.

VinSpace’s Art Jam is an evening for creatives who want to come together and enjoy a night of conversation. batik and yarn work — with plenty of good beer and good music to get the 40 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Nov. Q2 From Nov. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Guests are given three activities to enjoy — block printing. Q1. This is not to be missed. 11 from 7pm to 10pm. 11 A monthly event. as well the chance to mingle and meet interesting people.com party going. go to facebook. 11 from 9pm until late. Switzerland’s own Dj Ouch. 2 many mixes. Free before 10pm. HCMC Small Things VinGallery. VinSpace is at 4-6 Le Van Mien. Expect Till’s classic mix of deep house and techno sounds drenched in a sauce of dub and acid. Art Jam will take place on Friday. EROL. Entrance is free. For tickets and further info. 4. The night kicks off on Friday Nov. visit goethe.000 after 11pm. Supported by the GoetheInstitut. Q2. For more info. 3. The price includes a free. will be starting the show. Nov. HCMC Art Jam November VinSpace. Nov. Q1 Sunday. Sushi has almost 400. To date. and which ironically also went viral on Facebook. a dream for anyone interested in graphic design and typography 1. The works must be no larger than 50cm x 50cm. HCMC Von Wegen Lisbeth Ben Thanh Theatre. along with Vietnam favourite Chris Wolter and one man live show.000 views on Youtube.000 after 10pm. The Observatory is located at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. VND150. 26. Ben Thanh Theatre is at 6 Mac Dinh Chi. HCMC.ToDo 1 list HCMC 3 German Indie Pop outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth The crew behind Giegling return to Observatory Some of the work that will be on display as part of VinGallery’s annual exhibition. Von Wegen Lisbeth has been described as young and funky playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics.com/ theobservatoryhcmc. 2. Indonesia.de/Vietnam. Q4 Saturday. A number of activities are available. 13 at Ben Thanh Theatre. Nov. Tickets are VND199. with a range of creatives displaying works from Vietnam. Small Things Images from last year’s Type Directors Exhibition in Hanoi. Entry is free before 11pm and VND150.000 on the door. This November. founder of the drum and bass crew Insane Drumsounds. This year promises to be a diverse and exciting display. dirty bass lines and big punchy treblescapes. 26 After what can only be described as one of the most spectacular performances ever witnessed within The Observatory’s walls last April. 13 Hip German indie outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth tour Vietnam this month — their Ho Chi Minh City show will take place on Sunday. Q4. Nov. 26 Small Things is an annual collection of artworks chosen from an open call for artists based both nationally and internationally. Malaysia. Q1. Starts 9pm. cold beer on entry. and only a few of many beautiful submissions are chosen to be displayed. . fun and artistic exchange. the Giegling crew are back to show us how it’s done one more time on Saturday. Nov.000 if pre-ordered and VND249. Von Wegen Lisbeth rose to fame with their cheerful Youtube hit Sushi which poked fun at social media. VinSpace will be welcoming a specialised evening of textile-based art. Q2 Friday. Doors are at 7pm Giegling Night w/ Ateq and DJ Dustin The Observatory. all materials used and entry into the prize draw.

com | November 2016 Word | 41 . 25 to Nov. VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien. 25 to Nov.000 works from 49 different countries were submitted to the Communication Design and Type Design wordvietnam. HCMC Type Directors Exhibition HCMC Exhibition House. over 2. 29 Goethe-Institut is inviting everyone to join the Type Directors Club exhibition in Ho Chi Minh City from Nov.4 Bermuda the UK and the US. Many of the works on display are also for sale. The annual Type Directors Club competition and the award winner exhibition will present the best typographic works from the whole world. Q1 Nov. so this is the ideal place to find a special gift for Christmas while supporting emerging artists from your local sphere. On exhibition will be the most interesting designs the world of script and graphic design has to offer. 29. 26 to Jan 14. The Small Things exhibition will run from the Nov. This year. Q2. The award is considered one of the most renowned prizes in this field.

Scottish comic Stephen Carlin will bring down the house at Game On on Nov.. Even the British press are into Carlin. Russia.000 and includes a free Pasteur Street IPA. Thailand and Vietnam. And if you do deign to get off your backside to see this show. 3. new comedians in Britain. 30 In an attempt to make you 42 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Germany. advertising. The exhibition will be held at HCMC Exhibition House. Q2 Saturday. publishing and education. Here’s what they’ve got to say: “So thoughtful you would put your house on him reinventing the knock knock joke. Q1 Wednesday. Nov. Entrance is VND200.com laugh. com/saigoninternationalcomedy. marketing. in recent times Saigon International Comedy has been flying in top-notch comics from overseas. England. click on facebook. Doors are at 8pm and Game On Saigon is at 115 Ho Tung Mau. HCMC. 3 The British International School (BIS) in Ho Chi Minh City will hold it 8th annual Christmas BISzaar on . and funniest. Reckon you can make that oh-so-long journey to downtown District 1? Damn right you can. expect to fall off your seat — in laughter. communications. and Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin will certainly keep the audience in fine laughing fettle. The exhibition is directed especially at professionals and students in the fields of graphic design.” — Steve Bennett.” — The Herald “Ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up. France.” — The Guardian “Fast establishing himself as one of the most distinctive. South Korea. Japan. 15 Images from last year’s BIS Christmas Bazaar 2. multimedia. 30 1. that is. And for table bookings. Q1 and will be open daily from 9am to 6pm A Night with Stephen Carlin Game On Saigon. not because the chair is wonky.ToDo list HCMC 2 HCMC gets its first full-scale marathon in 25 years on Jan. Spain. Dec. and to everyone else interested in typography and design. Canada. China. Announcing the arrival of a new comedy original. email saigoncomedynights@gmail.. Poland. There were 397 winners whose works will be presented in eight different exhibitions in the US. 27 Le Thanh Ton. Taiwan. Chortle Interested? You’d better be.com BIS Christmas BISzaar British International School. To keep yourself posted and ready for some comedic fun. Q1. 1 competition.

BISzaar will take place at BIS’ secondary campus at 246 Nguyen Van Huong. 42km. 10km and 21km runs. and as the race grows in reputation it also grows in size. and Ky Quang Pagoda for orphaned children. For details or more information on how to be a vendor or sponsor of the event. expats and tourists. The City Marathon.500 visitors sampling great tasting seasonal fare. contact BIS Parent Teacher Group at bisptgap2@ gmail. it has become an icon that the citizens of Ho Chi Minh City can be proud of. 14 and the actual race takes place on Jan. This year a full distance. The marathon warm-up day is on Jan. After four years of successful organisation.com . BISzaar is organised to raise funds for charities and humanitarian projects in Vietnam. Q7 Sunday. he may just have a present or two. is back in 2017 courtesy of organisers Pulse Active. from children. Q2. including for Mai Tam school for HIV-positive children. 3 from 9am to 3pm. 15 The date is set! Ho Chi Minh City’s biggest organised run. what would Christmas be without the big man himself? Santa Claus will make an appearance and who knows. participating in fun activities. And of course. BISzaar has attracted over 70 vendors and more than 1. together with the staple 5km.3 Saturday Dec. It attracts a wide demographic. Thien Phuoc School for disabled children.com The City Marathon Run 2017 Phu My Hung. teenagers and entire families to office workers. HCMC. Jan. 15. In recent years. will be launched for the first time in 25 years. BIS raised over VND100million for community service and charities at last year’s BISzaar. There has been a regular annual increase in the number of local Vietnamese participants in the race. The City Marathon has become more than just a race. Registration fees differ depending on the distance you race — find out more on the course and registration by clicking on hcmcrun. and enjoying Christmas music and carols provided by the school music department.

The concept is an immersive space with a 12m-high ceiling. history and Vietnam. creative-minded partygoers. For more info. With cutting edge technology. together with a pen and ink sketch of the street as it looks today. The Cocktail Art of Saigon manual is available for purchase at Shri restaurant and lounge. the Cocktail Art of Saigon manual is a collection of 41 original cocktail recipes painstakingly created over the last three years. sweet. the audience will get uninterrupted views of the stage. There’s a Manual for That UK-born artist. Each cocktail recipe is accompanied by a hand-drawn illustration by Richie himself of what it looks like.com/ envyclubsaigon. For more info. Slated to open by the end of the year. There are 41 cocktails in the manual paying homage to 41 years of peace since the war’s end. the brewery aims to craft quality beer that everyone can enjoy paired with Asian and Western-style comfort food. bitter and chilli. check out East West Brewing Co. most notably their Saigon Rose beer. mixologist and general manager of Shri Restaurant and Lounge Richie Fawcett has just released the definitive cocktail manual of Saigon. handcrafted details and lush layers of fabric and textures with art-deco style influences. The venue is located at 181-185 Ly Tu Trong.com/ eastwestbrewery. Be Seen with Envy New nightclub Envy has opened in District 1. the history of its streets. all in one space. Included is a taste indicator marking the balance between sour. craft breweries and a new restaurant or four. Billed as a theatrical nightclub. but they’ll also have an eclectic choice of other brews inspired by this city. The entertainment is achieved through a rendezvous of energetic. East West Brewing Co. art. Q1. is about to launch Vietnam’s first American-style craft brewery restaurant on Ly Tu Trong in District 1. is set to open in mid-December 1. and a dining room with a contemporary ambience where customers will be able to sit back and watch their next beer brew. Craft beer will start at VND70. East West will offer their own take on pale ale and Belgian favourites. music fans and experience seekers in search of innovation in art.vn Something’s Brewing at East West East West Brewing Co. The cocktail recipes are inspired by a combination of modern day street life in Ho Chi Minh City.. he’ll be creating traditional European beers and exciting new recipes to satisfy local tastes.000 .000 a go.1 IN 2 Just HCMC New nightclubs. while mains will cost from VND100. Q1. 2. With 15 years’ commercial brewing experience in the US city of Portland — touted the craft beer capital of the world — not only will brewmaster Sean Thommen be brewing American-style craft beer. HCMC. umami. and the names associated with them. com tam burgers. City Garden apartments. 74-76 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. What’s new this November 3 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Richie Fawcett from Shri has given the concept of a menu onehelluva lift American craft beer house. contact Richie directly at richie@shri. There will be a tap room with a marble bar where you can get down to business with tastings. at facebook. Check out the ‘Art of Nightlife’ at Envy. sound system and an LED wall. HCMC. 3. fully-equipped with stage. Envy aspires to be a hotspot showcasing a collaboration of outstanding musical talents along with world-class art and fashion shows.com Designed for lovers of cocktails. a low alcohol and light bodied beer brewed with raspberries. and online at facebook. 44 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. lighting.

vn I www.elitedental. Vietnam +84 (08) 7306 3838 I (+84) 902 66 11 00 info@elitedental. French & Japanese laboratories to deliver the finest prosthesis 57A Tran Quoc Thao St.com | November 2016 Word | 45 ..Give your teeth A MAKEOVER 45-60 Millions VND BEFORE 10 VENEERS/ CROWNS Free Consultation English & French speaking prosthodontics AFTER Actual Patient specialist More than 15 years of experience with smile makeover. Ward 7. Dist.com.com.vn wordvietnam. 3. Ho Chi Minh City.

000++ per adult (kids cost VND450. Hoi An. the building’s structure remains much the same as it was in its original form. The Bep1919 menu offers a range of Vietnamese favourites such as steamed fish in local herbs. Au Lac Do Brazil’s all-you-can-eat dining concept of meat straight off the barbecue has long delighted the palates of this country’s carnivores. free-range meats and freshly caught seafood. For more info on the designs.com. Both offer the best of mama’s home cooked dishes from the street and countryside.com Henry Forwood Design Launch English designer Henry Forwood has spent the last 20 years developing and manufacturing designs in furniture.000++). Throughout November this year guests will be served 12 kinds of meat including turkey on a skewer and one drink at only VND790. While downstairs captures the heart and soul of a street-food eatery. The Festive Season at Au Lac Do Brazil The first authentic Brazilian Churrascaria to open in Vietnam. all put together using the freshest of ingredients and the best locally grown produce. Alternatively. accessories. Selected products from Forwood Designs are now available at Anupa Boutique. Henry is close to the entire process of production for Forwood Designs. Bep Me In is at 136/9 Le Thanh Ton. For more details or to make a reservation call (08) 3820 7157. Set in the heart of the iconic walking streets of the old town. HCMC. click on forwooddesign. Bep Me In sits at the end of a private alley near Ben Thanh Market. click on their website to see the full product range.450. Au Lac do Brazil is at 238 Pasteur. The restaurant is not easy to come across and manages to maintain peace and quiet that many spaces in Ho Chi Minh City seem to have lost. Q1. roasted pork belly marinated with lemongrass. offering a whole stuffed turkey. HCMC New Hoi An Dining Oasis The recently opened Bep1919 is a new oasis of Vietnamese food and culture in Hoi An. ornaments and other household objects for clients worldwide. this charming restaurant is the ideal place to soak up the past of Vietnam. Quang Nam. steeped in history and in culture. marinated chicken thigh with sticky rice crust.com or call (0510) 386 2279 Spice Temple Ho Chi Minh City has just welcomed a new Thai-inspired restaurant . 7. 5. from founding the initial idea to following through with the manufacturing and packaging. Bep1919 Thai Restaurant Spice Temple has opened on Mac Thi Buoi Fancy a com tam burger. Q1.000 with two days pre-order. Turkey is on the menu this festive season at Au Lac Do Brazil 3. This includes handpicked herbs. organic rice.IN Just 1 HCMC 3 4 2 Hoi An gets itself a new Vietnamese restaurant. Henry draws much of his design inspiration from mother nature. 4. whether he is creating a beautiful designer shagreen or that perfect tray handle inspired from a twig found in 46 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. The restaurant will also run a Turkey Take-Away Package from Nov. Bep Me In mixes a streetfood eatery with home-style Vietnamese fare 1. anyone? Relish & Sons has got it covered 160 soon-to-be-constructed apartments at City Garden go on sale on Nov. HCMC or online at bepmein. and promise the diner a chance to reflect on the beloved comfort food of Vietnam. Bep1919 is at 108 Nguyen Thai. cranberry/gravy sauce and a bottle of house wine for VND2. Anupa Boutique is at 9 Dong Du. For more info click on bep1919. 1 to the end of 2016. Products by Henry Forwood are now on sale at Anupa Boutique 2. Located in a vintage yellow house first built in 1919. Q3. 12 6. the upstairs provides the comfort of a more contemporary home dining room.com the jungle. Bep Me In New to Ho Chi Minh City. cooked using traditional Vietnamese methods and recipes.

vn. HCMC IS NOW OPEN IN DISTRICT 7 Crescent Apartments for Sale at City Garden City Garden have announced the official sale of the project’s final 160 luxury condominium apartments in the Crescent — the fourth and final tower of the City Garden project. The project will be completed in Q2 2018 and will boast panoramic views of the city. Even better.10 PM 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di.5 MAD HOUSE 2ND LOCATION 6 7 situated just off Nguyen Hue. Nov. Spice Temple is at 81 Mac Thi Buoi.2 street C. For more information about the launch of The Crescent. coming in at VND110.10 PM No. turn to xxx Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh Cult Japanese pizza restaurant. Spice Temple focuses on Thai cuisine fused with international flavours to suit to any customer. Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh is at 8 Thu Khoa Huan. To read a review of the restaurant. Visit pizza4ps. please. City Garden is a short drive from the city centre. or call (08) 3514 6888 / (0903) 336011 MAD House D7 E V E R Y D AY FROM 11 AM .000 a go. The pork patty is marinated with spices and grilled.Tan Phu Ward. Q1. and is designed by renowned Australiabased architect Koos de Kiejezer of DKO. Set back from the main road at 59 Ngo Tat To.000. City Garden offers residents a one-of-a-kind sanctuary from the pace of life in Ho Chi Minh City. dishes like the tomato spaghetti with mascarpone cheese cost VND140.com/MADsaigon . The com tam broken rice is fried with spring onions and made into a bun. Q1. has just opened its third locstion in Saigon and its fifth restaurant in Vietnam. Dist 7 2nd floor at Capri by Fraser 08 5417 1234 Facebook.com for more info Com Tam Burger at Relish First came the Pho Burger. Using the same food concept and pricing as its other restaurants. Relish & Sons is at 44 Dong Du. first-serve basis starting on the morning of Saturday. but then this is a burger served in a refined. this Saigonese mainstay has been converted into a burger. HCMC. the burger is not costly. no complainers. Thao Dien. Pizza 4P’s Ben Thanh has been carefully built to restore and preserve the ambience of the past. please contact enquiries@citygarden. Nestled in a French-colonialstyle building at the corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Le Thanh Ton. The apartments will be available to the public on a first-come.000. Among the city’s most popular and successful real estate projects. Dist 2 08 3519 4009 Facebook.com. So. HCMC and 108B Xuan Thuy. a fried egg on top and a sauce based on a mix of fish sauce and chilli. Boasting contemporary design and an attractive ambience. Q1. the restaurant has installed two pizza ovens on the second floor in an open kitchen so that guests can watch food being prepared. 12 from 9am until noon. This is more than you’d pay for your plate of com tam. Q2. Now Relish & Sons have upped the ante with the all new Com Tam Burger.com/MADhouseD7 MAD House D2 E V E R Y D AY FROM 08 AM . Decked out in a three-floor building. HCMC. while the Parma ham Margherita pizza goes for VND330. air-conditioned atmosphere. Pizza 4P’s. and the burger is served with pickles. Binh Thanh. Made with all the components of a traditional plate com tam. The Crescent comprises 160 high-end apartments ranging from 65sqm to 145sqm.

6 Manzi presents a solo exhibion of paintings.000 attendees. Artist Nguyen Dinh Hoang Viet will be exhibiting at Manzi from Nov. Entrance is VND600. the cheerful song spread within no time all across Facebook. CAMA ATK are putting on not one but two bands on Nov. Launched in 2015 in Hanoi with 48 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. please register at man-zihanoi@gmail. universities. ticketbox. To register click on bbgv. with a 10% discount for groups of over 50.ToDo listHanoi Experimental music. Hanoi US Election Watch Live Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake. 6 with all the proceeds going towards wildlife preservation. an election. 6 4. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. Yes.org Is ?! for real!? Manzi Art Space.com before Nov. 6 The Annual Fun Run for Charity. a young funky band from Germany playing lightweight indie pop sounds combined with sharp German lyrics will tour Southeast Asia this month. Viet is known for his unusual paintings of animals. For tickets and further information visit goethe. coming from two different cultures — Vietnam and Denmark — who cocompose and perform their original compositions using jazz music as a common language. it’s unavoidable. 9 The strangest US Presidential race . the event has attracted over 75. Doors are at 8pm The BBGV Charity Fun Run Ecopark. Hung Yen at 9am with a lucky draw and special prizes. 3. and raised over VND8 billion for charity. A great opportunity for company team-building and family outings. support for the event has come from multinational and local companies. Tay Ho Wednesday. The run will kick off at Ecopark. Nov. schools. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. dubbed ?!. Entrance is VND150. the second annual BBGV Fun Run in the capital will take place on Sunday. Hanoi.000 (children aged five to 16). Nov. by Hue-based artist Nguyen Dinh Hoang Viet. This month in Hanoi 1 3 2 4 Funky sounds from Germany 1. Musicians Tri Minh and Clara Bryld 5. 6 Tri Minh and Clara Bryld will present the Hanoi audience a poetic. Nov. The entrance to all concerts is free.000 per person. their music careers started with a video on YouTube — Sushi. The BBGV Fun Run returns to Hanoi for the second time 3. live music. 10 Youth Theater. 9 6. Nov. So much so you can even watch the election live at the InterCon on Nov. Hung Yen Sunday. melancholic jazz night. Ba Dinh. Having quietly made a name for himself in the past few years. It will finish at midday. families and individuals. organisations. Van Giang. Since its inauguration. Hai Ba Trung. Entry is free. Through making fun of the social network’s mechanisms. The concert is a project of the two artists. black speech bubbles. laughter with contemplation. all of which are out of the ordinary.de/vietnam. Nov. And for more information please contact Dung on dung.com over 2. 4 Von Wegen Lisbeth. The Youth Theater is at 11 Ngo Thi Nham.000 (adult) and VND75. Ba Dinh. The second half of ?! showcases Viet turning his quirky attention to everyday objects. Hai Ba Trung Friday. reaching Hanoi in early November. Hanoi and the exhibition runs until Dec. Due to limited seating capacity. Viet’s work combines light humour with intrigue. Like so many others. charity fun runs and a photography workshop. comedy. 4 2.org. 6 Riding the Carousel Manzi Art Space.nguyen@bbgv. vn or call (04) 3633 0244. Ba Dinh Sunday. is the biggest event among a wide range of charitable activities held by the British Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV). German Indie Pop outfit Von Wegen Lisbeth play Hanoi on Nov. Ba Dinh From Nov. first launched in 2000 in Ho Chi Minh City.000 runners and walkers. and has continued the theme with animal paintings flanked by comical exclamation marks and empty.

com | November 2016 Word | 49 . etc.1 in Water Technology www. alternative bands from Scandinavia will grace the stage at CAMA ATK on Nov. They create live driving techno with off-kilter drumming. Safe shower water. It features a la carte breakfast choices and live coverage from CNN and NBC. 10. Hai Ba Trung Thursday. Nov.free from particles. on large screens. Hanoi and the party runs from 7am to midday 5 Monkeybar and Monoswezi CAMA ATK. drinking water and mineral water Full range of residential and high-end applications Flexible solution Europe’s No. and the American Chamber of Commerce has organised an election watch party to see the drama play out. taking the audience with them on a journey of BWT WHOLE HOUSE WATER FILTRATION FIRST CLASS HYGIENE Clean. Tay Ho. hygienic.bwt-vietnam. perfect water for you and your family! ª ª ª ª Pure water . Their sets are improvised. Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake is at 5 Tu Hoa. Registration in advance is required. either by calling (04) 3934 2790 or via a web link at amchamhanoi. chlorine. odour. MonkeyBar are Scandinavian duo Steinar Nickelsen and Erik Nylander. This one should be at once unusual and evocative. plus BBC. bacteria.com wordvietnam.in many years comes to a head next month. 10 6 A double header of two. swollen synth lines and deep bass drones: evoca-tive of epic days filled with darkness in the northernmost fjords of Scandinavia.com/uselection-watch-party.

in particular that from Zimbabwe and Mozambique. a podcast. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. Scottish artist Be Charlotte will be playing at ATK. It’s here! Beaujolais Noueveau! The first wine of the new harvest 6. Hai Ba Trung. Nov. San Francisco native Bezier plays Savage on Nov. featuring non-verbal mask . Hau Dong: The Spirit Mediums of Vietnam. Tewfic will present three photo talks. Norway. An image from the book. and give insights into the indigenous and ancient tradi-tion/culture of Vietnam. Hanoi The Medium Has the Message Manzi Art Space. during which he will introduce his book. As the first and only nonVietnamese to publish a photo book about the tradition. 50 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Hai Ba Trung Wednesday. 16 Goethe-Institut is presenting Hotel Paradiso. parties and a string of releases with labels and artists from around the world. 11 Having launched two record labels. Hotel Paradiso will be the German contribution to the third International Experimental Theatre Festival in Hanoi 5. Tickets cost VND80. Voyage. Be Charlotte also raps and beatboxes and has helped to invent her own unique musical instruments. Be Charlotte has been creating a huge stir in the UK music circuit having quickly established herself as a must-see festival act. Belladrum and Doune The Rabbithole Festival. Entry is free and the talk starts at 6pm. Her distinctive voice aside. Hanoi Hotel Paradiso Youth Theater. Be Charlotte then went on to headline slots at Electric Fields. Andy Hart stands at the forefront of Melbourne’s dance music scene. She’s good. coffee-table format photo book features over 100 large colour photographs and more than 60 pages of text. yet viscerally emotive. Hau Dong: The Spirit Mediums of Vietnam 4. Hai Ba Trung. 18 7. numerous brands. Following wide recognition of her debut single Discover earlier this year. Nov. His large. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. Monoswezi seeks a musical expression. where respect for tradition is combined with different references and experiences from jazz and modern Western music. Sweden and Zimbabwe.ToDo 1 listHanoi 2 3 1. Hai Ba Trung Friday. Tickets cost VND100. Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu. Experimental artists Vu Nhat Tan and Tran Xuan Hoa will perform Manzi on Nov. Ba Dinh Saturday. Nov. Co-founder of the Melbourne Deepcast and now Mel-bourne’s infamous Wax’o Paradiso. Ba Dinh. Hau Dong. The talk will be conducted in English with Vietnamese translation. With a common passion for traditional African music. Andy Hart is at the forefront of Melbourne’s dance music scene 2. Tay Ho Friday.000 on the door.000 after Being Charlotte CAMA ATK. Hanoi. very good 3. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. 18 4 synesthesia: playful. Andy has also recently launched his own imprint. Monoswezi are a collective of musicians originally from Mozambique. an Australian DJ known for his eclectic sets which move across many styles from house and disco to funk.com Also on the decks will be the irrepressible Graz. Members of the Hau Dong community in Hanoi will attend the talks. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100. Hanoi Andy Hart Savage. 12 Travel photographer Tewfic El-Sawy will introduce his latest photo book about the Viet-namese religion of Dao Mau and its ritual. Nov.000 on the door. but all based in Norway. 11 Scottish artist Be Charlotte comes to Hanoi for a gig which will showcase her exciting talent which has seen her invited to headline slots at T in The Park. Tay Ho.

Dong Da Thursday. the event will feature the Beaujolais wines. has been performing non-verbal mask theatre for years.7 5 is (almost) here. including the Pullman and CCIFV. The third International Experimental Theatre Festival takes place from Nov. Expect a chilled out evening combining the melodiousness of the piano with the beautiful rhythm of marimba. based in Berlin. 16 to reserve seats. The food will be provided by several restaurant partners. Each ticket includes three dishes and two drinks. 17 This year’s Beaujolais nouveaux Composer/pianist Vu Nhat Tan and percussionist Tran Xuan Hoa present to Hanoians an improvised acoustic concert with piano and percussion.com before Nov.org. The performance starts at 8pm Bezier Savage. Tickets cost VND450. Hanoi.000 in advance or VND600. all taking place in the main ballroom of the Pullman Hanoi. Having released wordvietnam. It’s a space for experimental exchange between Vietnamese and international artists. Pullman Hanoi Hotel is at 40 Cat Linh. Due to limited seating capacity. Organised by CCI France Vietnam. The play is characterized by black humour with a hint of melancholy and involves dark happenings as siblings battle for control of the hotel. 18 A founding member of Honey Soundsystem. The celebration is a typical French tradi-tion that celebrates the end of the annual grape harvest and the release of the year’s first wine. Tickets for Hotel Paradiso are free. please register at man-zihanoi@gmail. 30 in Hanoi. Berlin. 18 6 theatre by the group Familie Flöz. Nov.000 per person. 15 to Nov. and are available from Goethe-Institut. The party kicks off at 6pm Season Fades Manzi Art Space. Nov.com | November 2016 Word | 51 . The well-known theatre group Familie Flöz. live music (and a stage to dance on) and a lucky draw. The Youth Theater is at 11 Ngo Thi Nham. Hanoi. titled Season Fades. Ba Dinh. accompanied by French cuisine. including O’Douceurs. Bezier is one of the most innovative of the present crop of DJs and producers emerging out of San Francisco. Hanoi. Tickets are available from several locations around town. Contact: hanoi@ccifv. Nov.000 on the door. Hai Ba Trung. the German contribution to the third International Experimental Theatre Festival in Hanoi. Entrance is VND250. Ba Dinh Friday. Maison Vie. The show starts at 8pm Beaujolais Nouveaux Sont Arrivés! Pullman Hanoi Hotel. La Verticale and A La Folie. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. Dong Da. Tay Ho Friday.

Ba Dinh. and prepare images for web and print. Hai Ba Trung Saturday. After a long absence. 11 The Return of Spikey Tee CAMA ATK.99 million and The London College for Design and Fashion is at 98 To Ngoc Van. face painting. French DJ Sunsiaré plays Savage on Nov. All the while Spikey has continued to DJ. A House in Ninh Hoa. Nov. 24 to Nov.com. Tay Ho Nov. 24 to Nov. The BIS Festival on Nov. Hanoi. to band member of avant-garde outfit The Sindecut.com 2 3 between Vietnam and Germany. Hoa Lan Road. The event will include traditional and modern games and activities such as a bouncy castle. which he has taken across the US and Europe. Entrance is free. Spikey Tee has progressed from being a warehouse DJ in London. Don’s Bistro is at 16 Quang An. The documen-tary will be screened at 7pm Vola Visuals Photography Workshops London College for Design and Fashion. Learn how to edit your photos in a series of workshops at the London College for Design and Fashion 5.30am and carries on until 2pm. taught how to retouch portraits. focusing on participants polishing their own body of work. While techno and house are the foundation of his sets. The seasonal Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the trimmings will run from Nov. High Dynamic Range. Not one to be missed 6.com Thanksgiving at Don’s Don’s Bistro. BIS is at Vinhomes Riverside. 27 Don’s Bistro is known for its sumptuous Thanksgiving feasts. Regarded as one of London’s original “rude boys”.ToDo listHanoi various records on the Dark Entries label and Honey Soundsystem’s flagship label. Spikey Tee. and also to experience the vibrancy of the cultures represented at BIS Hanoi through the activities. Tay Ho. The documentary is part of the Mini DocFest. Ba Dinh Sunday. the documentary follows three Vietnamese brothers whose lives separate for many years before reuniting through subsequent generations. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100. comedian Stephen Carlin will light up ATK on Dec. Tay Ho From Nov. correctly adjust levels. mixing hip-hop. Tay Ho. Hanoi 1. 19 Next month sees the return of one of CAMA ATK’s favourite DJs. The final sessions of the class will be devoted to personal guidance from Julie. Support will come from Berlin’s Leo Cameo Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu. 19 will be celebrating the different cultures represented at the school 2. The workshop starts on Monday. Hai Ba Trung. An image from the documentary. Nov. Nov. Tickets cost VND80.30pm to 9pm. A House in Ninh Hoa Goethe-Institut. 27 and costs US$25++ for adults and US$12. a documentary by Philipp Widmann which tells a family story 52 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. 20 As part of Mini DocFest. Thanksgiving at Don’s Bistro. Spikey’s list of collaborations reads like a who’s who of the world’s dub stars and his ap-pearances in Hanoi have always been a must-see. This is an opportunity for family and friends to come together and have an enjoyable time.000 after 1 Family Fun at BIS festival British International School. over the last few years he has been focusing on his live music performance. ragga and drum ‘n’ bass. The price is VND4. Tay Ho Friday. For bookings call (04) 3719 2828 Sunsiaré Savage. The festival begins at 9. by Philipp Widmann 4. 19 The British International School Hanoi hosts its international festival to celebrate the different cultures represented at the school and to raise money to support the school’s charity activities. Participants will be introduced to industry-standard Adobe software like Photoshop and Camera RAW. Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc. The annual short film and video art festival is organized by Hanoi DocLab. Nov. Long Bien. For info email julie@volavisuals. 1 8. henna painting. Long Bien Saturday. to lead vocalist in Jah Wobble’s Invaders Of The Heart. Hanoi favourite Spikey Tee returns to the capital to spin the lights out of ATK 3. Hanoi. For information call (04) 3946 0435 or email bishanoi@bishanoi. Hanoi. 21 Photographer and Word photo editor Julie Vola will be running an eight-session workshop on the fundamentals of digital editing. The Song Hong Half Marathon returns on Dec. and double exposure will also be covered. Hanoi. behind the scenes French-born Sunsiaré spends time with his machines and takes care of the two labels — Fragrant Harbour and Homesick. Advanced techniques like creative filters. and this year is no different. 21 and runs every Monday and Wednesday evening from 6. and more. international food and drink stalls. GoetheInstitut will screen A House in Ninh Hoa. live music and performances.50 for children under 12. 25 An Asia-based DJ and producer and part of Hong Kong’s Cliché Records since its inception. 25 7. Hanoi. Tay Ho. sand art painting. Entrance is free. Nov. Under threes go free of charge. Sunsiaré doesn’t stick to one genre .000 on the door. Written by Dan Nguyen. handicraft workshops. R&B.

will host the start and finish of the race in the confines of Ciputra Club. Savage is at 112 Xuan Dieu. so much so that they’ve written some rather nice things about him. Entrance is VND200. a kids’ fun run.com for registration details and stay up to date with all the race in-formation through Hanoi Red River Runner’s Facebook page. live acts and music on the main stage.” — The Herald “Ready to become at the very least a cult favourite among fans of the sharper end of stand-up. Tickets bought in advance cost VND150. this event goes from strength to strength. Hoai Duc Sunday. There is also the chance to learn more about the variety of goods and services on offer in Hanoi and to buy seasonal gifts for family and friends.000 for charity. click on facebook. Thang Long.” — Steve Bennett. And if you do deign to get off your backside to see this show. face-book.com/redriverrunners. and Scottish-born rabble rouser Stephen Carlin will certainly keep the audience in fine laughing fettle. An end-of-year celebration and shopping opportunity which showcases international cul-ture and cuisine.com/annual-charity-bazaar/ A Night with Stephen Carlin CAMA ATK. There will be a new and improved shuttle bus service (free to ticket holders). Ciputra. An-nouncing the arrival of a new comedy original. the bazaar includes a food fair. Hanoi. Nov. in recent times CAMA ATK has been flying in top-notch comics from overseas. For more info.com | November 2016 Word | 53 . that is. Dec. offering 10km and 5km distances.000 and includes a free Pasteur Street IPA. 27 The organisers of this year’s annual bazaar put on by the The Hanoi International Women’s Club (HIWC) will be aiming to build on last year’s event. St Paul American School is at km 10 + 600. 11. Hanoi. To keep yourself posted and ready for some co-medic fun. providing race volunteers and injecting their usual level of energy to the event. to help visi-tors get there and back.com. 11 If you’re not already in training. The lead sponsor. expect to fall off your seat — in laughter.000 after HIWC Bazaar St Paul American School.. Doors are at 8pm and CAMA ATK is 73 Mai Hac De. A firm fixture on the Hanoi calendar. and of course. Tay Ho. which saw over 8. then get on your running shoes.000 for children under 12. Dec. The annual Song Hong Half Marathon will take place in Tay Ho on Sunday. Check redriverrunners. a kids’ corner.000." — The Guardian “Fast establishing himself as one of the most distinctive. Reckon you can make that oh-so-long journey to the hinterland of Hai Ba Trung? Damn right you can. Hai Ba Trung. not because the chair is wonky. or check online at hanoiiwc. Here’s what they’ve got to say: “So thoughtful you would put your house on him reinventing the knock knock joke. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100.000 or VND50. Hanoi. Hai Ba Trung Thursday. new comedians in Britain. This year’s race is billed as the Run for Wildlife as Education for Nature Vietnam continues their partnership with Red River Runners.com/camaatk/ Song Hong Half Marathon Ciputra Club.6 4 7 8 5 when he’s on stage and can easily switch between different tempos or atmosphere as he feels the need. the ticket price on the day is VND200. please email bazaarsecretary@ hanoi-iwc. 1 In an attempt to make you laugh.hanoi wordvietnam. Hoai Duc. and funniest.. Chortle Interested? You’d better be. Tay Ho Sunday Dec. Even the British press are into Carlin.000 visitors and raised US$107.

Tay Ho. The deli is vegetarian friendly. ‘TV Dinners’ are available to eat-in or takeaway on those nights when you just can’t cook: choose a main. There is one downside. Hanoi Anita’s Cantina Tacos have come to Quang Ba courtesy of Javier Rodriguez who has just opened Anita’s Cantina. West Lake’s got itself the closest you’ll get to a beach bar 2. 54 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Enjoy a wood-fired pizza. Xuan Dieu. Hanoi La Bodega Located in Long Bien District. Brunch is served all day long.000). and plans are in the works to open during the day soon. Lane 40.IN Just Hanoi Packages for expats. like chicken cordon bleu or eggplant parmigiana.000. and more. colored pencils. Ozu is Nguyen Qui Duc’s latest offering to the comrades and citizens of Hanoi 7. Tay Ho.000. Standing Bar brings craft beer to the Truc Bach area of Hanoi 8. Hanoi Unicorn Stationery The only dedicated stationery and art supply shop in West Lake has just opened on Xuan Dieu — no longer do the teachers of Tay Ho have to drive to Ba Dinh to get their sticky balls! Stocked with acrylic paint by Martha Stewart. La Bodega is open from Friday to Sunday evening. Saturday nights feature live music by the lake. What’s new in Hanoi 2 3 1 5 4 1. Tuesday through Sunday. Tay Ho. salad and hand- . and pizza and tarts cost from VND60. burritos for VND110.30 to 7. Stationery has opened on Xuan Dieu 4.000). Unicorn is at 2B.000.000. another craft beer pub. Anita’s Cantina is at 86 Quang Ba. La Residence is one of the most beautifully set up hotels in Vietnam Corto Corto is the closest West Lake is going to get to a beach bar.000. Corto is at 162 Tu Hoa. though — it’s only open on the weekends. and two sides for VND160. Tex-Mex cuisine and.000. Hanoi Bancong Deli Bancong Deli serves healthy comfort food from around the world. Tacos at Anita’s Cantina 3. Bancong Deli is at 18 Quang Khanh. offers free delivery on orders over VND150. and margaritas for VND80.000. with two-for-one margaritas. sausage rolls (VND50. so get your tacos while you can. serving pork. An outdoor venue with lakeside lounge chairs.000 to VND150. with a full English breakfast (VND130.000. Wednesday is ladies’ night. and pies (VND95. Tay Ho. less than 10 minutes’ drive from Hoan Kiem. notebooks of all shapes and sizes. and they are open 9am to 6pm every day. Tay Ho gets itself a new deli 5. Cocktails are on the cheap side. you guessed it. it’s great for some after work chill and adorable dates. with a basil cucumber gimlet going for only VND65. and potato tacos for VND20. sharpie sets. prices range from VND50.000 to VND500. TV dinners. beef.30. and is open from 7am to 9pm.000). The pizza at the newly opened La Bodega 6.com Hand-made tortillas and an assortment of salsas on every table makes this a proper Tex-Mex joint. and drinks are 30% off every night from 5.

Hanoi La Residence Opens the Door to Expats La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa has introduced a new Expats Escape package.com. relax on sofas in the indoor lounge or at high tables on the spacious terrace with sunset views over Truc Bach Lake. this is a collection curated without pretention.000.000. Watch for future events here like poetry readings. and even Moroccan carpets. Spanning handmade Vietnamese crafts.000 to VND120. please contact resa@ la-residence-hue.000 to VND100. Hanoi Standing Bar Boasting a 16-tap Vietnamese craft ale selection and a daily rotating menu of tapas and small plates. Ozu by Tadioto is at 3 Ly Dao Thanh. 30. The Expat Escape rate at this property that evokes the magic of French Indochina includes accommodation for two. and can be sipped Tuesday through Sunday from 4pm to midnight. Standing Bar is what it says: standing room only. found art. 2017 to stay at one of the country’s most acclaimed hotels for VND2. and meetups for designers. refurbished furniture. Ba Dinh. on the first floor at least.970. A coffee cart will offer espresso and snacks from VND30. Standing Bar is at 170 Tran Vu. Long Bien. Beers range from VND50. calling all foreign nationals living and working in Vietnam from now through Sep. jazz on the sidewalk. The place is perfect for family events or an escape from the city’s madness. to be presented during the reservation process and upon arrival at the hotel. spa and laundry. Hoan Kiem.000 per night. . featuring eclectic wares from different corners of the world. Thach Cau. peaceful garden. and the space is open from 9am to 9pm (at least). For reservation and information. Upstairs. and a 15% discount on food and beverage. La Bodega also offers evening delivery service from Tuesday to Sunday. La Bodega is at 56/139.6 7 8 made fresh pasta in a green. Hanoi Ozu by Tadioto Nguyen Qui Duc from Tadioto has opened a lifestyle decor shop. All that’s required of the expat is a valid working permit or visa.

com .Insider Sister Act / Building Quest / Women / Chup Dao / Six Shades of Vegan Green / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Xoi Xiu / Mystery Diner HCMC / Banh Tam Bi / Banteay Srei / Inside Phong Nha / Destination Zero: Easy Tiger / Destination Zero: Mia Nha Trang Photo by Theo Lowenstein 56 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 57 .

often leaving their children and families behind. administration officers and secretaries. She has also practised in the US and has written seven books in her field and says she has five or six more in the pipeline.” she explains. with two different paths into the future. more likely to seek support. education and health.” she says. but also as helping people 58 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Influence “Like everywhere.” Not too far from Sister Thecla’s church is another Catholic establishment across . in effect.” Commitment In addition to her work with the Catholic church in Vietnam. Nearly 70 years old. she chooses her words carefully. as in-house training and development similar to the way regular workplaces might hold training and development for their employees. While the stereotypical role of the nun could be perceived more as yin — cloistered. She says most of the children who attend her kindergarten have autism.” Sister Thecla’s answer steers our discussion towards the problems that women in Vietnamese society face today. particularly in rural areas. veiled. when peace breaks out. “We have nuns who are trained teachers. they’ll be more confident and freer.” She doesn’t reveal the content of the seminars she delivers to the priests. Sister Thecla says she’s seeing an increase in cases of autism in urban areas among children attending the kindergarten at her Nam Ky Khoi Nghia chapel. parents are busy with work and have little time for their children. and the Catholic church overall. As Vietnam develops and becomes more attractive as a manufacturing hub for industries such as the textiles and garments industry. passive — one where they pray all day. hidden. Two. visits with families and helping people. One such nun is Sister Marie Thecla from the congregation of Notre Dame in Ho Chi Minh City. Matt Cowan gets a rare view into the often hidden world of the Catholic Church. She offers seminars to nuns and priests that act. “There’s a different message. “One.” When asked if the engine behind the work of the Catholic church in Vietnam is the women. the nuns’ work has great influence in the community. the priests have the most influence. While her work is far-reaching. two churches. Sister Thecla’s work is an example of the type of employment nuns can pursue outside their traditional commitments. Sister Thecla has spent the past 20 years lecturing at universities and advising NGOs on matters relating to family.” says Sister Thecla. she says that her seminars for nuns and other women in her congregation centre on self-esteem and confidence building. shop assistants. She identifies development as being a major cause of difficulties in Vietnamese families. “I aim to strengthen their confidence so they aren’t afraid of men. open. and lawyers. society is opening up and becoming less ashamed and less worried about face. “It’s not just all about the spiritual. only to say some priests are “more open” than others. In fact. including a stint in the Philippines where she graduated with a PhD in Counselling and Psychology from De La Salle University in Manila in 1993. active. Sister Thecla has devoted her life to the Catholic church. doctors. Photos by Vu Ha Kim Vy and Mike Palumbo D espite the active role Vietnamese women have played in the more turbulent times of the country's history. She was the first Catholic nun in Vietnam allowed to teach at university. “I see my job as not only spreading God’s word. homemakers. Sister Thecla wields bigger influence within the inner sanctum of her order. whose adherents are said to make up 6 percent of the Vietnamese population. Her career has taken her to 80 percent of the Catholic church parishes throughout Vietnam. but (she emphasises the but). who have the blessing of the church to contribute to society through practice. But I hold classes separately because they’re a different audience. and therefore. Women are often seen as nurses.” she says. One quiet exception is the work women do in the Catholic church. confident — and are visible in society. while men manage them. the patriarchal order returns. “Naturally I teach theology to both the nuns and the priests. “If they’re more aware of their potential and value themselves. However.com understand the human aspect of life. “There are likely two reasons for this. As a result. It spreads out like grassroots through their classes and through counselling couples. men and women are migrating to Ho Chi Minh City for work in unprecedented numbers.Insider INSIDER HCMC Sister Act Two nuns.” says Sister Thecla. many nuns in Vietnam take on a yang role — positive.

com | November 2016 Word | 59 .wordvietnam.

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which feeds 300 people three times per day. the threat to the nuns’ way of life looms large. Still. leaving behind 300 nuns living and training on site with at least another 300 dispersed throughout the Catholic dioceses in Vietnam. it has a cap on the number of children who can attend.” Sister Thecla and Sister Alma are unanimous that they would do it all over again. The church has a small dairy with around 30 Friesian cows producing somewhere between 200 and 300 litres of milk each day which is then sold on to Vinamilk and other buyers. Like its fellow church in town. wordvietnam. She says that she and the other nuns have refused to relocate on a number of occasions despite pleas from their families. but is having to deal with one as a matter of urgency. but have provided them with opportunities to be influential in what is often seen as a male-dominated space. In addition. And the recent contamination of its small.the Saigon River at Thu Thiem. “I’m leaving everything up to God to decide. “We staged a protest last year over two or three days because of plans to demolish some of our buildings. despite its resilience. the Holy Cross convent appears to be waging an almost daily battle to hold its ground. However. but due to restrictions on size.” she says. Already parishioners have moved to other parishes. the dairy produces enough biogas to satisfy the cooking requirements of the kitchen. they have one alternative source of income in the form of dairy cows. There are also 60 retired nuns living in the nursing home on the grounds that need support. Significant Nevertheless.com | November 2016 Word | 61 . Their chosen vocations have not only afforded them important opportunities to serve the community in a spiritual sense. they are still able to derive income from teaching at elementary schools and other social activities.” says Sister Alma. has damaged the convent’s sustainability. We are still here though. Sister Alma (not her real name) is a 73-year-old nun who has been at Holy Cross since she was 14. “I don’t think much about the future. While Sister Thecla’s church remains healthy and robust. Although the income isn’t significant. Much like the sisters of Notre Dame. but once productive fish farm. the Holy Cross sisters rely on income from their kindergarten. Resilience The Lovers of the Holy Cross convent at Thu Thiem is struggling to maintain the status quo amid development and forced relocation. mostly in the south. it’s observing similar changes in society. Right now I’m just trying to do my best. the milk is also enough to meet the daily requirements of the convent. Perhaps most symbolic of this is the earmarked felling of the original tamarind tree that has stood on the grounds of the convent since its establishment around 1840.

Insider INSIDER HANOI Building Quest Revellers and partygoers have little idea of the work that goes into putting on a festival.com . Jesse Meadows goes behind the scenes of this month’s Quest 62 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

com | November 2016 Word | 63 .wordvietnam.

We’re sitting at Hanoi Rock City on a Thursday night. it started to get bigger and bigger. so Cat has invited festival-goers to help her build it. . The official Quest headquarters can be found in a house tucked away off Tay Ho Street. the table has been converted into an office — six people sit glued to laptops with spray paint. orange and green — the colours of the Khong Sao Stage.” Battle of the Gods This year’s festival is based on the Vietnamese myth of the battle between the mountain god Son Tinh and the sea god Thuy Tinh. and a three-legged dog wanders about the house. head of the stage’s design team. It wasn’t a stage.” says Cat O’Brien. providing necessary stress relief. Quest Festival’s workshop coordinator. “Having a place like this where we can paint freely is really rare.com mountain god. which grow by the day as participants help to cut. The back room — a former handpoke tattoo studio — has been converted into storage for festival materials. Khong Sao isn’t just about music — it’s a place for workshops and art exhibits. Upstairs in the kitchen. The coffee pot is never empty. sits at the table. it was just a community space. Excel spreadsheet open. Natalie Smith. Unlike the other stages at the festival. Whatever can be assembled there is done downstairs in the workshop — the rest is transported to Son Tinh Camp in trucks two weeks before and built on-site by a team of 20 — double the eight people who built last year’s festival. empty take-out boxes and stacks of invoices piled between them. And as I kind of got to understand the brief and the story. she wants attendees to feel like they’re a part of the festival. the performance producer. There’s glitter everywhere. surrounded by giant plywood triangles that volunteers are painting purple. somewhat of an origin story for the Ba Vi mountain range that surrounds the campsite. festival flyers. cigarettes. too.“F estival work is not glamorous. Rather than turning up for a weekend to dance. headphones on.” says ZarahLouise Roth. “When I was first recruited. a really small area. I really pushed to make a stage that represented the 64 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. and it’s become like a main stage now. As it developed. glue and paint everything piece by piece.

everybody in costumes. like contemporary dance. She’s planned nearly 30 workshops. “So. Fluorescence “There are lots of different things [planned]. she’s in charge of Quest’s non-musical art. With a background in organising outdoor performing arts festivals. and cellophane that she can use to make giant glow-in-thedark jellyfish. Finding materials in Hanoi is difficult. but they’re all very much about bringing the people that come to Quest together. This is a trash bag. for the Quest parade. Her crisis today is finding fluorescent feathers. Quality wood is expensive or non-existent. we should end up with the entirety of the festival in one space. wordvietnam.“We have many balls that we juggle. weaving in and out of the festival. The Berlin native has years of festival experience behind her.” She shakes her head in frustration. and it’s about not dropping any of them.com | November 2016 Word | 65 . aerial silks. drumming. She pulls a strip of plastic out of her bag. from tarot to body marbling to kung fu.” she says.” she says. picking up people as we go along. fire spinning and drag performances. but this is her first Quest. “This is a sample? No.” Zarah sits on the couch at her laptop.

“A lot of it is just zip-ties and staples. the build manager.” Cat says.” She was also one of the only women on the team in 2015 — something the organisers wanted to change this year. so you can work out the kinks. and for months. dancing in a national park with all your friends is fun. She spreads water across a plank of wood. and drips acrylic paint over it. Next to her. they’re coming together. as she draws in the geometric lines of her plywood mountains with black marker. and endlessly emailing. you’re not 66 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Nguyen Linh. But my favourite part of Quest is building it together." Tyler pointed out that would cost VND7 million. most of the Khong Sao Stage has been painted and sealed. breaking the budget. wrap.” Linh asserts.” There are two weeks left until Quest.” It’s true. “She has the big. too.” Tyler Purdon.” Much of his job is managing creative yet unrealistic expectations. “I keep telling myself.” Tyler says. “It’s based on your personality. and get loads of frames. they will try to work harder. and then suddenly the week before. Liv Ferrari is painting the signs that will mark the festival’s stages. “[The best thing about Quest] is the fact that it’s so small-scale. “One thing I really wanted to do was completely curtain the stage. the festival coordinator.” she says. “That’s why you start early. “You see everyone’s ideas. “I still need to make a chandelier. sits at the kitchen table every day doing that — pricing surge protectors. bars and workshop areas. the goal is to make a better festival and a better process.so the team has innovated with bamboo and nearly 400 shipping pallets. overall picture. and if people see that you are working hard. “which would have been hundreds of metres of fabric. make a load-in and a load-out plan. tarp. handling poster orders gone wrong. “She’s known as the festival ninja. just keep [working].” Natalie says. not your gender. it all just comes up amazing.com getting anywhere. “But each year. . build a bamboo wall to go behind the DJ booth.” he says. and label everything.” Cat says. “Quest needs to be balanced out. says. Linh is very much that go-to person [on the team]. If it’s just a bunch of guys talking in circles. The colours swirl together like magic. and back at HRC. making sure all the bilingual signs are correct.

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Cover Story

Women
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H

ow many statues of celebrated
women do you see in Europe? It’s
a question we posed ourselves and
except for those of saints, Joan of
Arc and the many representations of Mary
Magdalene, we could think up barely a
handful.
Yet everywhere you go in Vietnam you
see images of this country’s most important
women carved in stone, memorialized in
temples, and remembered in the country’s
street names. The Trung Sisters, Le Ngoc
Han, Thach Thi Thanh, Vo Thi Sau. There are
many. Women past and present have had a
huge impact on Vietnam.
This month’s cover story celebrates

women living and working in Vietnam.
Featuring profiles of women, both modernday and historical, we have looked at the
significant contributions they have made to
this country, in war and in peace. On many
fronts the status of women in Vietnam is
higher than in a great many other countries
in the world. They have proved their
resilience time and again when things got
tough.
Yet for a country which acclaims the role
of the female with such vigour, women often
get a raw deal. Domestic abuse, unequal
opportunities, cultural marginalisation and
exploitation are all an issue here. Passing
laws mandating gender equality (as Vietnam

did 10 years ago) is not an instant answer
and far more needs to be done. Some of the
stories we have uncovered are horrific.
Despite the negatives, women in Vietnam
have fashioned remarkable and visible
achievements, from creating beautiful art,
entrepreneurship, building skyscrapers and
devoting their lives to the less fortunate,
there are no boundaries to what they can
achieve.
They are business leaders, agricultural
workers, athletes, politicians, homemakers,
mothers, academics, artists, construction
workers, warriors. You name it, women do
it. Their strength is an inspiration, and we
celebrate them for it.

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 69

Women and
the Economy
Women play a key role in Vietnam’s growing economy. Yet it’s a role
that is often undervalued. Words by Edward Dalton

V

ietnam is on a roll. It has enjoyed
30 years of virtually uninterrupted
growth, with the World Bank
calculating an average yearly
increase in GDP per capita of 6.4 percent.
The official reason suggests this growth is
courtesy of the 1986 doi moi reforms.
Another reason, however, is put forward
by Trini Leung, Director General of Oxfam
Hong Kong.
“This growth is built on the backs of
poor women,” she argues, in an article for
Thanh Nien News.
Women are the foundation of the
Vietnamese economy. They support
everything and do much of the hardest
work. But the foundation is also the most
unappreciated part; invisible and forgotten.
According to Ms. Leung, men are the
building being constructed on top; the
part which is seen, appreciated, tangible,
always going up. However, take away
the foundation, and the building comes
crumbling down.

Setting the Foundation

Data from the General Statistics Office
of Vietnam states that agriculture and
industry make up more than 50 percent of
GDP, with 67 percent of the workforce in
these sectors. A large proportion of workers
in these two sectors are women.
Compare this with the US, where about
13 percent of the workforce are employed
in the same sectors, and it becomes clear
how central women workers are to the
Vietnamese economy.
Even before the economic and social
reforms of the 1980s, war had forced
Vietnamese women into roles which have
endured to the present day.
With most able-bodied men drawn
away by the conflict, women were
needed to keep the economy running. In
addition to fulfilling the traditional role of
taking on the burdens of the household,
women became part of the industrial and
agricultural workforces, encouraged by the

70 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com

advice of the Women’s Union in the mid1960s. It is advice which still echoes today.
“Women still make up some 70 percent
of the agricultural labour force,” says Dr
Khuat Thu Hong, Director of the Institute
for Social Development Studies.

Double Days

Economists do not assign any economic
value to running a household and a family,
considerably undervaluing the role of
women in the economy.
“[Running a household] covers a range
of activities,” says Ms Leung. “It includes
cooking, cleaning, bringing kids to school
and tending small vegetable plots.”
These responsibilities add between two
and four hours to a woman’s work each
day, a concept Ms Leung calls time poverty.
She cites global management consultants
McKinsey and Co, who estimate the total
value of the time women spend on unpaid
care work is around US$10 trillion a year.
Yet in Vietnam, traditional perspectives
on the role of women mean that if they
don’t fulfil their household obligations,
they are deemed a failure.
Norman Abjorensen, a Visiting Fellow at
the Australian National University, spoke
to several Vietnamese women about their
feeling of being held back by having to run
the home.
“The men I have met have made it clear
that they’re looking for a housekeeper
and a mother,” says Hanh, a 30-year-old
woman with a Master’s degree from an
elite American university. She wants to
pursue a long-term academic career in
Hanoi.
“My husband doesn’t want an educated
wife with a career,” says Mai, 28. “You
know, not once did he ever ask me about
my thesis. It was as though this part of my
life was invisible to him.”

Changing with the Times

“If women only stayed home caring for
their families, the country’s history would

have been very different,” says Dr Khuat.
Despite this observation, women remain
under-represented in many sectors of the
economy.
Mr. Abjorensen notes that only 23 of
the 186 members of the all-powerful Party
Central Committee are female. Last year,
the International Labour Organisation
found that only 23 percent of managers in
Vietnam are women, compared with nearly
48 percent in the neighbouring Philippines.
The pattern of every modernising
economy is always the same; agriculture
and industry give way to the service and
technology sectors. There are two key areas
which must be addressed if women are
to flourish and continue their key role in
the Vietnamese economy into the future,
according to Ms. Shoko Ishikawa, UN
Women Representative in Vietnam.
“On a personal level, men have to
change their mind sets,” she says.
Grassroots education is needed to break the
association between women and running
the home, which will allow women to enjoy
the luxury of choice now reserved for men,
with regards to their own education and
career.
The second area is at policy level.
“There should be policies which support
the balance between men and women,”
says Ms Ishikawa. Policy makers need to
recognise the role of Vietnamese women
in the economy, and support and reward
them equally.
In 1975, 90 percent of Icelandic women
organised a one-day strike, to show how
undervalued women’s contributions
were. They didn’t work or do any of the
traditional “women’s duties” on that day.
Banks, factories, schools and shops closed.
Sausages sold out because they were the
only meal men could easily cook.
Five years later, Iceland became the first
country in the world to democratically elect
a woman as head of state.
Maybe it’s time for Vietnamese women
to have a day off, too.

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 71

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If the partner is open-minded and supportive. “My mother hasn’t applied much pressure to force me to get married. or even the part of the country where the family lives. having children or being a single mom are not the elements of being a modern woman. but now she understands and that makes it easier for me. someone who knows what she needs. and Nguyen Thi Kim Tien — Minister of Health. which many seem prepared to do. with their emphasis on rigid roles and rules. “It’s a big mistake to think that a modern women’s role is working hard in society and taking good care of the family by doing all the housework. If not. That’s a modern woman. but still thinks about having a family of her own. Right. Everyone was supposed to know their place and stay in it. She regularly travels abroad for work and has to make sure everything at home will be fine while travelling. Take Nga Le. those who mix the traditional and the new. general cultural values. ngon (proper in speech and communication with others) and hanh (moral. aren’t allowed a voice or have the right to do anything.” she says. Tu duc (the four virtues) required that a woman be cong (hard-working and competent). taking care of the children and serving the husband. The Old Values Traditional Confucian values. religion. But while nobody doubted that women contributed more when they were given freedoms. a woman may have to choose between career and family. Merging the Old and New When Nguyen Thi Binh became Vietnam’s first female vice-president. Doing what you as a woman like to do. these ideas appear to do no more than stunt development of half the population in terms of both intellectual and social participation. she became regarded as a role model for modern women: here was someone able to handle both the issues of the country and the issues of her own family. Bui Phuong Anh is human resource and organizational development partner at ActionAid International and a mother of two. “We as women only need to know what we want to do. but in modern times.com | November 2016 Word | 73 . independent Vietnamese women seeking to live life on their own terms. Tam tong (the three obediences) specified that an unmarried women had to obey her father. passive and long-suffering may have been an ideal in the world of 2. and few doubted that they deserved more. “My mother-in-law was annoyed at first when she saw me travelling so much. ancient Confucian values proved hard to shift. and following where you as a woman want to go. They have to stay at home.500 years ago.Role Play Vu Ha Kim Vy explains the conflict between the traditional and modern role of women in Vietnam. Her full work schedule with the Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA). “However. young versus old. dung (modest in manner and appearance). Nguyen Thi Kim Ngan — vice president of the National Assembly. “I’m lucky to have an understanding husband who has shared with me in every field. Photo by Bao Zoan T he various roles of women in modern-day Vietnam lie on a broad spectrum from ancient to modern. Vietnam passed its first gender equality laws in 2006. and a widowed one had to obey her sons.” she says. “Having a job or staying at home. means she has to travel for business but still has to make time for her family.” says ActionAid’s Phuong Anh. what we can have and what makes us happy. Every year. not many women can be as lucky as I am. then the two roles can co-exist. It is said there are three types of Vietnamese woman today. and those who reject the old values completely.” wordvietnam. It mandated a system of values and moralities by which these feudal women had to abide. there are more examples of successful. “But I know for sure she’s concerned!” She is busy with her career and doesn’t know if or when she will meet a Mr. 28 years old and Project Director of XLE Group. had been moving towards a more modern and less rigid mode of thought. The differences can be seen in terms of rural versus urban. They even get abused or beaten by their husbands.” A New Concept Combining an independent modern life with traditional values is not easy. especially rural women where the old ways still exist. poor versus wealthy. the ones who hold to Confucian values. a married one had to obey her husband. and the woman’s place was subservient. have been around for a long time in Vietnam — since the Chinese occupation of the first millennium.” Nga Le agrees. including remaining a virgin until marriage). and for 30 years before that. Forcing women to be conservative. Saigon Heat and Junior NBA. Similar modern role models include Ton Nu Thi Ninh — former deputy chairman of the National Assembly’s Foreign Affairs Committee.

In her work On the Blue River. we profile five women who’ve found themselves a niche in Vietnam’s arts. In her new series. In her painting. “But it’s not for me. Originally she wanted to become an art teacher. she paints herself into ethereal landscapes that float in negative space with dogs. I am happy when I work. “She’s just talking with herself. The theme of solitude repeats. Photos by Julie Vola and Mike Palumbo L e Thuy paints to find a sense of place. “My mother called me and said I have to get married.” — Jesse Meadows .” she explains. she has exhibited in Hanoi.Women in the Arts From music to film. the 28-year-old paints every day in her Long Bien studio. The figure is surrounded by delicate shrubbery — Thuy explains that these are a special kind of plant that close when touched. she creates her own idyll.” she remembers. roosters and insects her only companions. art to poetry. It takes her one month to complete a piece. a woman sits with a small spider. and she often sacrifices her social life for her painting. a blindfolded woman totters playfully across a tree trunk bridge. She’s saddened by the way society has lost its link to the natural world. Balance. Where is the Place of Peace?. Singapore and Ho Chi Minh City.” she laughs. I had many animals. They walk [across a 74 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.” Thuy says. we have a story about two goats. Thuy’s obsession with flora and fauna stem from her childhood in rural Thanh Hoa. and do not open again for at least an hour. Now. Even the smallest details in her work have stories. My mother had a small farm. The painting laments a lack of mindfulness.com Le Thuy bridge] at the same time. and they fall into the river. She studied art at Thanh Hoa College. “In Vietnam. and her work has been added to collections in both Hong Kong and Vietnam. “When I was young. flanked on either side by a black and a white goat. and praises the bliss we find when we look inward. but they don’t stop [to meet each other]. so with dreamy watercolor and mysterious silk. but since graduating. and was one of five women in her class of 30.

Khoi rose to prominence in the Vietnamese pop music scene in the 2000s. “I believe different groups of women. however. she says.” she says. Vietnamese musician and singer Mai Khoi has put gender and sexuality rights in the spotlight.” she says. adding that she’s noticed a definite improvement in the situation in recent years. and different genders. Her next album. should be treated equally. The so-called ‘Lady Gaga of Vietnam’ has made a name for herself as a feminist advocate for lesbian/gay/bisexual/transgender (LGBT) rights in a society that has only recently made turns towards acceptance. and at that time. These days. While comparatively tame compared to the real Lady Gaga. With influences ranging from American blues to traditional Vietnamese folk music. local media has always drawn the comparison thanks to her hair dye.” With a penchant for poking at conservative sexual and gender norms. my music revolutionized dance music in Vietnam.” she says. — Bennett Murray wordvietnam.” she says. Khoi has traded her electric beats for acoustic guitars and traditional flutes. referring to her old image. are human beings. She was honoured with VTV’s Song and Album of the Year Award in 2010. adding that the LGBT community is making large strides. as she takes a more serious and sombre tone in her art. Cuffed in Freedom.L ike her American counterpart. is to be released by the end of the year. I sang my very weird lyrics. “While many LGBT people are still discriminated against and devalued. Gone are the Lady Gaga days. “The LGBT community in Vietnam is now very active and strong. talking Mai Khoi about LGBT issues is no longer taboo like it used to be. “Before I had pink hair and I wore attire with the leggings. and have the right to make decisions about their own lives.com | November 2016 Word | 75 . overt sexuality and fondness for stoking controversy. her lyrics push for equality with more vigour than ever. “I don’t see it as attractive any more.

Kathy’s passion for acting and respect for her profession is clear and it’s this that will drive the next stage of her career. I learn this is Kathy working. where it was once all the same shade. too. Then on a whim she invites us into her private life. she reacts like we’ve known each other for years. Once upstairs Kathy seems tense. Then comes the realisation she’s not only a star. The Vietnamese part now means so much more. depth.I Kathy Uyen t’s my first meeting with actress Kathy Uyen. but foremost a regular person juggling everyday things. white picket fence and two dogs. she might never have come to Vietnam. This isn’t a woman who’s here because she has nothing better to do. You just have to go where your heart is.” — Matt Cowan . It loosens us up. Her styling shows that. She’s her own brand and it’s important. There’s nothing out of place.” says Kathy when I ask her about herself. Now she marvels at the irony of achieving the American dream of house. She wonders if there should be more tint. “I see myself as constantly evolving. so I charge downstairs. The shoot goes like a dream. Because there’s history. She’s added tint to her own story. She wants to teach the next generation of Vietnamese actors to be respectful of acting. to the point. Had Kathy not accepted a role in Passport to Love (2009). “I want them to appreciate what it takes to be an actor. We need aircon in Kathy’s Blue Velvet club in downtown Ho Chi Minh City where the shoot is. She shares pictures of her new home and asks for opinions on paint. Here most recent movie was Tan Binh Vo’s Triple Trouble (2015). When she spots me. where your roots are. She grew up American speaking Vietnamese. but in Vietnam.” Meanwhile. At the bar. she’s taking a call. technique and rules that you have to learn before you can break them. “It’s funny how life finds a way to bring you what you need. She’s concerned liquor bottles as a backdrop won’t cut it. She’s meticulous. focused. but has evolved into a Vietnamese-American speaking English. It led to her decision to pursue her acting career in Saigon. She looks stunning.

Hong Kong. the women organised a-festival. “It has at least two main meanings. and Kuwait. too. a small poetry gathering in Hanoi that facilitated exchange between poets and translators from Southeast Asia. even just word by word. “The idea is that slowly these books will be translated. “A poem itself is this constantly changing thing. creatures of elsewhere. The latest collection centres around the word nuoc.” The duo met five years ago when Thuyen read a piece at one of Kaitlin’s poetry readings. is an illusion. with the help of translator Kaitlin Rees. In August this year. the poet’s second full-length book and first to be translated into English. So. an exploration of the magic that can be made with the right combination of words. We think we see a clear division. and in translation you update it in some way from this moment or this language. “I like to think of these issues as definitions of words.” writes Nha Thuyen in words breathe. “You read a poem from 10 years ago and then you read it again. You’re different. Readers can digitally flip through the pages. so the book has a new meaning for you. and are invited to submit their own translations.” Kaitlin says. This intersection.Kaitlin Rees and Nha Thuyen “E very language meets at the intersection of sky and ocean.” — Jesse Meadows wordvietnam.” Kaitlin explains. The meeting culminated in a collaborative publication called Abracadabra. India. and features work from writers across Asia. They started the bilingual poetry journal AJAR to explore the place where languages meet. Their latest project is an online archive of nearly 26 hard-to-find poetry books published by small presses. Each issue revolves around one word. And I like that. she explains. text as a living thing. water and country. but the horizon is always shifting “with the tides and light”.com | November 2016 Word | 77 .” says Kaitlin. “You can comment and translate any portion of each page. how can all the words speak to each other?” Thuyen asks. and it’s different. but it is still always evolving. So. does text.

“We have quite a big gap between the law and its implementation. With the previous child [pregnancy].” “Ten years ago. In the study.com “He choked me until I could not breathe and then he released. Vietnam’s first laws against domestic violence were only passed in 2007. Women. [the concept of] domestic violence was very strange to many people. Jesse Meadows looks at how deep-rooted domestic violence is in Vietnam. They thought violence was only between two countries. 58% of women who were ever married reported experiencing physical.” says Van Anh. not inside families. Family. sexual or emotional violence at the hand of their partners. “It’s .” Van Anh says.” “He was keeping a farmer’s pipe in his hands for smoking. and Adolescents (CSAGA). he threw it towards me — to my hip and breast… He beat me. Photo by Julie Vola A ccording to the 2010 National Study on Domestic Violence Against Women in Vietnam. and what is being done to get rid of it. director of the Center for Research and Applied Sciences in Gender. he beat me until the day of delivery.” “He beat me so much that this baby was premature. violence survivors from Hanoi and Ben Tre describe the following scenes: 78 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. then this is nothing to what can go on behind the scenes.Domestic Violence in Vietnam If you’ve seen the man-versus-wife fights on the street. then he pulled me like a dog from the gate to inside the house.

Ritsu believes such a complex problem needs broad-based action where everyone gets involved. by finding households that are willing to act as safe places for women who need to escape their homes. and think about [the consequences]. policy dialogues. CSAGA provides help for victims in the form of workshops that act as healing sessions and provide legal counselling and a domestic violence hotline for both women and men. many women find themselves in bad situations they can’t escape. but [we need to] teach young boys that’s just one part of it. too. masculinity is expressed as very dominant and violent. deputy representative for UNFPA Vietnam. supported by the UN and other civil society organisations. she is too talkative [or has not done] enough housework. it’s usually another family member. “It’s really important to have the whole society approach. This keeps them silent. “They always want to keep the marriage [together] at any cost.com | November 2016 Word | 79 . and we need to be able to talk about this. abusive homes are damaging for children.” In reality. an organisation under the UN that works on gender-based violence prevention and awareness campaigns. Although they know about the law. “One hotline is for the abuser.” Sound of Silence According to a national study. so younger boys will understand what kinds of relationships they would like to have in the future. parents have to be role models. “In many cultures. you are most likely to be either a perpetrator or victim of domestic violence later in your life. we can talk to them to keep them calm. Cultural perceptions of gender roles often perpetuate abuse. and Tourism have tried to designate “trusted addresses” to fill this gap.” says Van Anh. It’s a private issue. As this can make men feel inferior. it means the children are vulnerable.not easy to talk with the police. “We need to start early. quiet and ‘enduring’. Unfortunately. “They think that if the family breaks down. women are taught that being a good wife means being gentle.” wordvietnam.” says Van Anh. Men have been taught that money and power are masculine. “According to the research. Schools need to educate children.” November is the Month of Action for Gender Equality and Gender Based Violence Prevention in Vietnam. if you observe violence as a child. you feel embarrassed” (Xau chang. and continue the cycle throughout generations. but they don’t think about women’s rights and human rights. The Vietnamese saying “He is bad. Combined with a cultural emphasis on reconciliation rather than justice. many resort to violence as a way to retain power.” Shelters UNFPA-supported schemes like Football for All in Hue are doing just that — using football clubs as a means to teach boys how to be supportive to the girls in their lives. It’s also common for women to feel at fault. and community activities to raise awareness. When [the abuser] feels very angry and they want to do something to their wife. and there are other ways to be manly. If they have told anyone. and 87% have never gone to the authorities. they think that domestic violence is not as important as other issues. will conduct a series of workshops. The government.” she says. For example. half of women in Vietnam who have been abused have never told anyone about it. she has made some mistake.” says Ritsu Nacken. and one hotline is for the victim. In the same way. but in Vietnam. including the government. many women are the breadwinners for their families. The organisation is also working with farmers’ unions in rural Vietnam to include men in the fight against domestic violence. ho ai) expresses the shame that so often keeps women silent. there are very few shelters available to victims. Sports. journalist training sessions. “Many people think that if a woman becomes a victim. Women’s Unions and the Ministry of Culture.

but the Vietnamese maintain that they threw themselves into the Hat River and committed suicide rather than surrender to the enemy. so Lac Long Quan took 50 sons to the sea. the legend goes. Phuc Tho. wherever you live in Vietnam. She taught her sons how to work the land and build stilt houses that would protect them from wild animals. of course. They were married in an effort to unite the tribes.Women in Vo Thi Sau. the Bach-Viet people were born. Me Linh and Ho Chi Minh City. These national heroines from the various stages of Vietnam’s history hold an important place in public consciousness. Hai Ba Trung T (12-43) rung Trac and Trung Nhi were born in northern Vietnam around 12 AD to a military family. she was born in the mountains to De Lai daughter to the king of a northern tribe. and Au Co took 50 sons to the highlands. Thus. On a trip to the lowlands. the son of a military official. when they were defeated by an army led by General Ma Yuan. Here’s a rundown of who’s who. This spurred Trung Tac and her sister into action — they gathered an army. of mainly women. Over time. the couple realised they were not happy and wanted to return to their respective homes. The sisters have temples dedicated to them in Hanoi. but the large contribution made by women to Vietnam’s turbulent past reflects their overall importance in society. Chinese accounts claim they died in battle or were beheaded by the general. the Dragon King of the Seas. Ba Trieu and Hai Ba Trung? Wonder who they are? Here are their stories and the tales of some of this country’s best known women.com recaptured 65 citadels and ruled as queens for three years until 43 AD. and led the first resistance movement in 247 years of Chinese rule. while Lac Long Quan taught his sons to fish and live off the water. They Au Co A (Immortal) u Co is regarded as the fairy godmother of Vietnam. she met Lac Long Quan. they killed him to make an example of the rebels. Words by Jesse Meadows and Vu Ha Kim Vy Y ou’ve seen their names on street signs. but when he stood up to the Chinese Han forces. Trung Trac married Thi Sach. and to this day remain powerful symbols of Vietnamese nationalism. and grew up learning martial arts. . the ancestors of the Vietnamese. There have been many male heroes in Vietnamese history too. Thousands of years ago. and Au Co bore 100 eggs that hatched into 100 sons. 80 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

was determined. Before leaving. however. though — after months of fighting. reconquer the country. wore golden armour. she was defeated. the emperor promised to marry off one of his daughters to the king although he was already married.” According to legend she was nine feet tall. Today. built a temple at the foot of Tiger Mountain (now Nam Dinh) and lived there until she died. 17 kilometres north of Thanh Hoa City. and could terrify the Chinese with her gaze alone. and Ba Trieu Temple stands in her honour. many streets are named after her across the country. kill sharks in the open sea. Her brother didn’t want her to become a rebel. At 20. She was orphaned at a young age and raised by her older brother. Under Tran Anh Tong’s orders. he changed his mind. In 1307. then called Dai Viet.History Huyen Tran Cong Chua H (1289-1340) uyen Tran Cong Chua was a daughter of the emperor Tran Nhan Tong and younger sister of Tran Anh Tong. where she raised an army to fight the Chinese. However. on returning to Vietnam. while Vietnam was under the rule of China’s Wu dynasty. wordvietnam. rode into battle on an elephant. She couldn’t hold them off forever. and never bend my back to be the concubine of whatever man. Huyen Tran Cong Chua later on became a nun. and in 1306 offered to cede two Cham provinces — Chau O and Chau Ly — to Dai Viet as a marriage gift. where she committed suicide. undo the ties of serfdom. general Tran Khac Chung went to Champa to rescue Huyen Tran and take her back to the homeland by boat. the emperor took a nine-month trip to the Champa kingdom and was given a lavish welcome by king Jaya Sinhavarman III. Tran Anh Tong finally agreed to marry off Huyen Tran to the king Champa. to which she famously replied: “I’d like to ride storms. and fled to Phu Dien commune in Thanh Hoa. she killed her brother’s cruel wife and fled into the mountains. Jaya Sinhavarman III died and according to Cham tradition. drive out the aggressors. Ba Trieu T (225-248) rieu Thi Trinh was born in Thanh Hoa Province. all of the royal wives would be cremated with the dead king. In 1301. and told her to get married instead. The king of Champa.com | November 2016 Word | 81 .

. Born in Vinh to a worker father and a merchant mother. Bui Thi Xuan. and even rescued a man from a tiger. In 1936. In August 1941. she joined worker movements and cofounded the New Revolutionary Party of Vietnam in 1927. however. She was released Bui Thi Xuan B (1771-1802) ui Thi Xuan was a general who fought in the Tay Son Rebellion. Tran Quang Dieu. When Hue fell to Emperor Nguyen Anh. was a revolutionary and one of the leaders of the Vietnamese Communist Party from 1930 to 1940. From 1931 to 1934. and joined her in battle. aka Nguyen Thi Vinh. she was still in contact with fellow members and continued leading the movement. In 1802. later married her. Born in the Tay Son district of Binh Dinh Province. she returned to Vietnam and became the first female secretary of the Saigon-Cholon Party Committee. Although captured and imprisoned in the Maison Centrale de Saigon (now The General Sciences Library). and their teenage daughter were captured and executed.000 troops to Quang Binh province. she also learnt martial arts at a young age. she was imprisoned by the British administration in Hong Kong. she led an army of 5. she joined the Vietnamese Communist Party and travelled to Hong Kong to become Ho Chi Minh’s secretary. she was executed by the French colonial authorities in Hoc Mon. 82 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Her name lives on across street signs all over the country.com in 1934 and together with Le Hong Phong — who she later married — became Vietnam’s representative to the Seventh Congress of the Communist International in Moscow. She was trampled on by an elephant — a common mode of capital punishment at the time — and the enemies ate her heart and liver. At the age of 20. That man. her husband.Nguyen Thi Minh Khai (1910-1941) N guyen Thi Minh Khai.

Vo Thi Sau B (1933-1952) orn in Ba Ria — Vung Tau. she was voted one of the members of the National Liberation Front. she continued to be active within the Vietnamese Communist Party and served on the Central Committee of the party. she was caught by the French authorities after throwing another grenade. Ba Ria and Con Dao before being executed by a firing squad in March 1952. She then led the movement in Ben Tre in 1945 and again in 1960 against Diem’s government during the war. She died in Ho Chi Minh city at the age of 72. wordvietnam. she got promoted to be the first female majorgeneral of the People’s Army of Vietnam. In 1974. she joined the Viet Minh with her brothers and threw a grenade. when she was 19. There is also a movie and a song about her. Nguyen Thi Dinh fought with the Viet Minh forces against the French during her teens. Con Dao. heroine and a symbol of revolutionary spirit. In 1964. She was imprisoned in three different facilities including Chi Hoa. In 1950. Vo Thi Sau is considered a national martyr. killing a French officer and injuring 23 soldiers. At the age of 14. She was also one of the vice-presidents of Vietnam’s Council of State from 1987 until her death. Vo Thi Sau was a Vietnamese guerrilla and was the first woman to be executed at the Con Dao island prison. After the war ended. Many schools and streets in Vietnam have been named after her. She became chairwoman of the South Vietnam Women’s Liberation Association and Deputy Commander of the Southern Liberation Army in 1965. She joined the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1938 and was jailed from 1940 to 1943 in Binh Phuoc.com | November 2016 Word | 83 . Her grave is still in Hang Duong graveyard. Nguyen Thi Dinh B (1920-1992) orn into a peasant family in Ben Tre.

Theo Lowenstein went in search of the women helping to build this country. Words by Edward Dalton 84 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.Women in Construction A rare sight elsewhere in the world. in Vietnam’s booming construction industry women are everywhere.com . With his camera to hand.

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 85 .

in 2012-2013. Indeed. Men tend to have a different. according to the UN’s International Labour Organisation. Vietnam was one of the 86 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. these women form the backbone of the Vietnamese economy. clearing out rubble. Yet in the construction business.A bout 72 percent of Vietnamese women are part of the country’s labour force. Distributed throughout construction. agriculture and industry. Women are often used for unskilled labour. shovelling sand or carrying bricks. the contrast between the perceived value of men and women is visible.com . more technical role. one of the highest rates in the world.

wordvietnam. Not a good sign.com | November 2016 Word | 87 . many of these women will still go home to the same responsibilities as their office-dwelling peers — looking after their homes and families. the role of women in building this country is irreplaceable. After a hard day under the scorching sun. living in cramped conditions and sending back money to their loved ones in the countryside. No matter how they play the game of survival. they will get the respect and financial acknowledgement they deserve. One day.few countries where the pay gap between men and women increased. we hope. Others have chosen to move to the city for work.

women tend to be on the softer side of kitchen work. the cold station.” she says. nothing fancy. Kitchen Art. adding that using artificial ingredients such as MSG is the epitome of “lazy flavouring”. Sexism isn’t a huge problem in her industry. and their vision and lifestyle is very modern. Chi Anh circled the world before returning to her homeland.” she says. or authorise my manager to do it on my behalf. “Lack of creativity in food service is what gets me the most.” she explains.” But generational shifts away from tradition. a little bit of West and East. like salads. Not everyone believes in the same values as before. in 2011. things that are less involved in fire and hot plates. The local government agencies that she must deal with. “There’s a little bit of Vietnam. a little bit of everything 88 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. where you had to get married at a certain age and live with your in-laws.” Chi Anh opened her first kitchen-focused busines. though she admitted that kitchens are often dominated by men. Born in the Soviet Union and raised in Germany and Taiwan before going to university in Singapore. owner of the KAfe chain. From there she moved directly into F&B and now has 15 restaurants spanning three brands.com just like my background. “Normally there’s always a dinner at beer places. “My employees were mostly born in the 1990s. so I have to get my husband to do it all. she said. nothing is more aggravating than dullness in the kitchen. adding that the front of house tends to be more mixed. she adds. also tend to be comprised of boys’ clubs. her menu reflects a global mindset. and I don’t do that kind of thing. — Bennett Murray . and Hanoi. She is now looking at expanding overseas. “In the kitchen. she says.Chi Anh Dao F or restaurateur Chi Anh Dao. It’s comfort international that I believe in. are helping to drive equality in the workplace.

I will not stand up. They would allow me to attend Hanoi University of Arts if I passed with high grades. If I failed. ‘If you do not allow me to follow this career. I would continue studying to become a doctor. “I studied at Hanoi University of Arts for three years. A bicycle hangs from the wall and doubles as a clothes rack. “My father was drinking while we were discussing my future. and her parents gave in to her wishes.Great Women From women in business to academics. authors to behavioural analysts to fashion designers. The store’s yellow exposed brick interior and other embellishments will give you a window into Mai’s whimsical personality. — Hai Vu wordvietnam. At present she is working on a series of custom wedding dresses and ao dai as well as being the lead designer for a Vietnamese comedy feature film which will be released later next year. There was no way he would listen to me.” That year. I told him my dream was to be in fashion. we profile nine women who are making a difference in Vietnam. Mai has had fashion shows in Tokyo and Thailand. He knocked all the beer bottles to the ground and they shattered into pieces.” Mai’s unwavering commitment to fashion encouraged her parents to change their minds. Viva La Vida. With a surgeon father and a pediatrician mother. I then moved to Hue to study lacquering. but with conditions: “We made a deal. and he became very angry. soon after in the Phu Nhuan district of Saigon. Her brother followed the family trade and became a cardiologist.’ That is the reason why I have scars on my knees now. With her pathway altogether cemented.com | November 2016 Word | 89 . and then attended Ton Duc Thang University in Saigon for four-and-ahalf years. Mai passed the final examination second in her class. so I knelt on the broken glass and said. reminiscing about the day she had the courage to confront her father about her career choice.” Mai opened her bespoke clothing store. Photos by Julie Vola. there was little doubt what Mai’s future career while growing up in Dalat would be. After settling into her dream career as a fashion designer. Now free to pursue her lifelong dream. Mai set out to prove to everyone that she would not fail. Mike Palumbo and Bao Zoan Mai Vu Pham F ashion designer Mai Vu Pham was raised in a family with a proud lineage of physicians. how did a woman who was preordained to practice medicine turn to a life of fashion design? “Through struggle.” Mai replies.

Thompson in Vietnam. you are able to live easily without being judged. right in the heart of the city. zips and types of stone.” Anupa has just given birth to a son. Leaving London in 1997 to work as a strategic planner for J. advanced and easy-going.com At the beginning.” she recalls.T Anupa Horvil he woman behind the elegant and luxury handmade leather accessories and jewellery company. When it comes to her identity. Anupa is aware that she is in a position to help others understand the industry. and to train and pass on my skills to ensure future generations think about luxury in a different way to fashion. Another is that compared to its nearby neighbours. She adds: “The key is to plan and be wise with your time.W. and learning the techniques and processes to produce these raw materials to ensure she always got quality products. “We plan to expand our collections and develop a casual line of clothes. “I chose to follow my passion and focus on creating luxury leather accessories and jewellery as I had the right partners to bring my ideas to life.” she explains. male or female. Anupa Horvil has long run one of the best-known expat businesses in Saigon. Anupa. the country is tolerant. “I am able to develop my work. she has found Vietnam to be refreshing. “everything is so much easier”. “I had many ideas and had to decide which direction to take.” Passionate about fashion since she was very young. “Whether you’re a foreigner or not. and thanks to her supportive husband. Now she’s got plans for expansion. such as thread. much of her time was spent researching the key players in materials. “We also want to move into being a leather bag and accessory tailor. This is the only way I am able to work and be almost a full-time mother as well. leather. with a boutique on Dong Du.” she says. That is one reason why she has stayed in Vietnam for so long. in 2004 she quit the job and created her own business.” 90 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.” — Vu Ha Kim Vy .

” Lisa says. “We’re both crazy fitness nuts.” says Nic. from travel to nutrition. “Lisa is also a total prankster — she proposed to me in the US with a treasure hunt through the Nic & Lisa snow and I had no idea I would find a ring!” The couple share a number of interests in life.” Both women are American but had to move halfway across the world to find each other in Vietnam.N ic and Lisa met five years ago on a blind date at The Refinery.” — Zoe Osborne wordvietnam. “We were the first LGBT couple to be cast on Asian TV. it would be ‘genuine’. “It was magical. it’s like they have always been together. “We want to bring people together. but when we met we clicked straight away.” Making the most of this spotlight. “We want to empower people.” says Lisa.” says Nic. “It was an amazing opportunity to shine a spotlight on the LGBT community here. “We want people to feel safe to be who they are.” says Nic. and to me it’s more about clearing my mind.” Nic says.” The two live and work together — Nic is a behavioural analyst and has her own Ho Chi Minh City practice while Lisa takes care of the business side. “We had no idea what to expect. “You love who you love. Looking at them now. If you could use one word to describe this couple. “Nic likes to challenge herself and meet new targets. We hope our own relationship can inspire that. Nic and Lisa’s new project LetsComeOut is all about generating a community where women feel safe to be themselves.” You may know Nic and Lisa from the 2016 Amazing Race Asia. set up by a mutual friend. to normalise LGBT relationships and to create connections. I’m very heart-driven and Lisa is very logical.com | November 2016 Word | 91 . “We complement each other.

a book which tells the stories of 20 remarkable Vietnamese women. Irene has lived in Hanoi for four years. one of the most eminent economists in Vietnamese history. “They were pioneers. Included in Irene’s book is Pham Chi Lan.” Irene harbours a deep admiration for the women she has written about.” she continues. not only write about them. “I wanted to give the voice back to women. With a background in executive coaching and leadership development.” she explains.” “For thousands of years.” — Edward Dalton . and their drive to contribute. “You can’t spend years researching remarkable women without being impacted by them. she has a drive to bring out the best in people. Born in Austria. founding director of Action to the Community Development Centre.” she says. as well as Nguyen Thi Lan Anh. “I wanted to involve the women. Irene is proud to have always developed herself personally and professionally during the last 20 years of living in five different countries and she says the women in her book would still be remarkable even if they weren’t women. and acknowledges the effect the women in her book have had on her. a place for professional women to share their stories of achievement. “I like to help people achieve the changes they want to see. "And to turn their rich stories into readable portraits.Irene Öhler 92 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com I rene Öhler is the author of Ba Trieu’s 21st Century Daughters. I would still admire them. during which time she has worked on her book and founded The Women’s Storytelling Salon. an NGO working to empower marginalised groups. so we can tell our own stories. Irene says she needs to contribute something meaningful. men have told women’s stories.” says Irene.

however. and they tell me they prefer to recruit Vietnamese women because they are harder working and want to learn. Anh has been an economist since she arrived in Prague in 1980 to obtain her undergraduate degree. when your parents give you a life.Nguyen Hoang Anh P rofessor Nguyen Hoang Anh has no shortage of female students in her classes at Hanoi’s Foreign Trade University. “Usually [parents] expect men to have the higher level of education. says Anh. they only represent a third of her students at the Ph.” There’s a silver lining.” she says. Some two-thirds of her undergraduates are women. She has since coauthored five books on international trade and contributed to several Vietnamese textbooks. they will change their minds. the numbers become grim. One day when you are happy. she says it’s usually to ask how they can gain acceptance from their parents. “Parents expect a bachelor’s degree — it is the best way to get married — and afterwards they stay home and take care of the family.com | November 2016 Word | 93 .D. am I a bad child?’” she says. when highly qualified women enter the workforce.” she laments. When female students confide in Anh. That conflict over education. ‘If I want to go study abroad or I want to go to Saigon to work. adding that being highly educated is perceived as a liability in the marriage market. she explains. “I’ve talked to many recruiters from foreign companies.D. it means you have to live your life fully. — Bennett Murray wordvietnam. degree they can’t find a suitable husband later. “But I say you’re not bad.” she says. While she says around half of her master’s students are women. and if their daughter has a Ph. “Many come to me and say. is a glass ceiling in the minds of almost every Vietnamese woman. level. Post-graduate.

Even though Lan boasts an impressive list of career achievements. Her frequent meetings with US delegations and her advisory role to then prime minister. The report outlines the future of Vietnam’s economic and commercial development. not holding back on calling out ineffective policies and showing courage in the face of potential disagreement from her contemporaries. Lan’s most recent work has been coauthoring the ‘Report Vietnam 35’ with the World Bank. and the shift towards a more market-based economy. During her career she has advised several Prime Ministers on economic and political reform and has played an integral role in some of the nation’s most pivotal moments. praising the efforts of others and downplaying her own integral role in the historic achievements that she was a key mover in. In recent years Lan has focused her time and energy on pushing for institutional reform in Vietnam.P Pham chi lan ham chi lan is a high profile figure. she remains humble. social and environmental policy and institutional reform. After her official retirement in 2003. where she stayed until the group was disbanded in 2006. helped to lift the decades-old trade embargo that had served as a crippling barrier to development. Vo Van Kiet. including the lifting of the US trade embargo on Vietnam. Working for the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and Industry (VCCI) for 37 years put Lan on the front line of negotiations between Vietnam and the US during the early 1990s. Lan was asked by then prime minister Phan Van Khai to work full-time for his advisory group. Throughout it all she has gained a reputation for saying things exactly how she sees them. — Billy Gray You can read this seven-chapter report online at the World Bank website .

D

Dr. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh

r. Khuat Thi Hai Oanh
began her career as a doctor
before founding the Center
for Supporting Community
Development Initiatives (SCDI) in 2010.
Her work supporting marginalised
communities including victims of HIV/
AIDS, drug addiction and the sex trade
recently earned her the Vision Award 2016
from the Hanoi International Women’s
Club.
Dr. Oanh’s work isn’t aimed at giving
charity to vulnerable people. Through
SCDI she’s created a platform from which
marginalised people in Vietnam can build
their own communities, support networks
and initiatives to unlock their potential.

“Every person has potential, but some
people don’t realise that they have it,” she
explains. “They need help to harness it,
and escape the stigma placed on them by
the rest of society.”
At the turn of the century, sufferers of
HIV/AIDS in Vietnam had no network of
support, and no access to treatment. Dr.
Oanh began a research project in 2001,
working with victims of the virus.
“I suddenly realised that there were all
these people suffering, that I didn’t know
about before, and nobody was helping
them,” she says.
It’s easy to see the degree of
commitment that drives Dr. Oanh in her
work. Her manner is calm, and carries a

managed solemnness — the manifestation
of carrying the suffering of others on her
shoulders.
That suffering includes the sobering
statistic that the biggest killer of people
with HIV/AIDS in Vietnam is not the
virus itself, but suicide. By providing
refuge for people who are otherwise
marginalised, stigmatised, and pushed
into oblivion, she has given power to
those whom society would prefer to
ignore.
Dr. Oanh is committed to raising
awareness about the realities of their
situation, so that in the future they can
continue to access the help they need.
— Billy Gray

Insider

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INSIDER

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by Bao Zoa
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Capturing li
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la
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Words by J

wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 97

C

hup dao means walking around and taking photos
for fun. It is what photographers, both amateur
and professional, love to do. For most of us, it is
at the root of our creative process, and nobody
understands that better than Word staff photographer, Bao
Zoan.
For Bao, chup dao means improvisation. He lets his mind run
wild. And it is then that his vision of the world comes together.
As he wanders, free from cumbersome equipment and
rational forethought, he lets his experiences lead him; it might
be a beautiful spot of light or a group of people, the look of a
street corner or the geometry of the architecture that will drive
him to frame and shoot.
Bao has an acute sense for strong, layered compositions that
tell stories of people and their objects. Each frame is a poetic
moment that celebrates life.

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and it adds a crunch to the soft lentils. Cindy. cucumber and pumpkin seeds. A u Parc is one of Saigon’s favourite lunch spots. The cucumber is cut small. or one of Au Parc’s fresh. bulgur. It is a big serving and leaves us satisfied. and for good reason. happens to eat mostly vegan herself.” she says. “If a dish is not vegan we can usually concoct something slightly different that caters to a vegan diet. as though the kitchen had roasted it in honey and cinnamon. reading a book or talking with friends. rowdy city. and for a reason — it’s the kind of place you could spend all afternoon in. there are a number of salads to choose from. . crisp 104 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. cleansing fruit juices. lettuce. The dressing is served on the side and the dish can be requested without the labneh. shaped like a half moon.000 Ingredients: lentils. Facing the deep-green 30/4 park. tasting sweet and slightly fragrant. which is not a vegan element. This salad was recommended to us by a friend. “Yes. The Beirut salad is a mix of lentils.com vegetables. roast pumpkin.” Looking through the menu.Food and Drink Au Parc Salad: Beirut Price: VND155. parsley. without feeling heavy. we have a lot of vegan food here. The Au Parc manager. with pomegranate dressing and optional herb labneh. The pumpkin reminds us of Christmas pudding. tangy dressing that lightens the whole dish. lettuce and roasted pumpkin. A perfect light lunch. the Beirut is the kind of salad you would order with a crisp glass of white. this restaurant manages to capture an essence of style and delicacy in our roaring. with a delicate. Much of the menu here either is vegan or can be made into a delicious vegan hybrid.

shredded carrots. if not as a smoothie then as a strange sort of soup. but it does satisfy the taste buds. It’s known around the city for its juices and smoothies. lettuce and citrus ricotta. Put cashews. you notice that each ingredient to the salad complements the next. The salad may not fill you up for a long time.EAT & DRINK HCMC Six Shades of Vegan Green Ditch the meat and get some greenery inside you. cucumber. and given the coconut kale smoothie on its menu this is not surprising. The dressing itself could even be drunk.com | November 2016 Word | 105 . his salad and juice bar sits like an oasis of health in the middle of downtown District 1. and perhaps that is because of the range. None of the salads at Guanabana are 100 percent vegan but they manage to stand alone without their non-vegan ingredient. The subtle crunch of red bell pepper next to fresh. In fact. and our city now has an increasing number of vegan options to enjoy. and it can be difficult to find something tasty that was designed for a vegan diet. But the salads here are less wellknown. and you guarantee business. It’s a matter of looking for them. If you ask for a veganized version at the bar. lettuce-ey nothingness to a dish that stands out. tomatoes. the staff will create an altered salad from scratch. we find it hard not to down it in one and restrict ourselves to dipping our forks into it at intervals. One of four salads. raw vegetables and fresh citrus ricotta. coconut and honey together. being mainly vegetables and dressing. In Love With the Coconut is a simple blend of colourful.000 Ingredients: bean sprouts. Zoe Osborne and Mike Palumbo search out six dairy and meat-free salads that make a tasty meal Y ou’d think that the humble salad. in a chilli toasted coconut and lime dressing. wordvietnam. leafy glory. But many salads rely on some kind of animal product to lift them Guanabana Salad: In Love With the Coconut Price: VND90. T This salad is a bundle of vitamins. As you take a bite. Especially in such a meatbased culinary culture as that of Ho Chi Minh City. in all its luscious. But with diversity in demand comes diversity in supply. plastic container with the dressing on the side. green lettuce and the burst of a cherry tomato all provide a rich texture to the hero of the dish — the toasted coconut and lime dressing. from basic. is the most likely of all dishes to be vegan. It is artistically arranged in its clear.

Little private puddles of water lilies line its entrance. .Hum Salad: Artichoke Salad Price: VND180. with a number of vegan dishes on its menu. It caters to a range of dietary preferences. Three types of pepper are used — yellow. but seems to have been lightly stir-fried before serving. harmonious surroundings. citrusy dressing on the side. artichoke heart. lemongrass and ginger on the side. and they bring an extra fragrance to the dish. The ginger and lemongrass both appear to have been stored in some kind of neutralising liquid. which changes the flavour base of the salad from subtle and wholesome to tangy and light. and red. T his island of peace and quiet is one of Saigon’s more up-market dining experiences. bell pepper. baby carrots and sundried tomatoes sits in the middle of a ring of artichoke leaves. This unusual mix of artichoke heart. sundried tomatoes. and look 106 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. with bright red fish darting between the fronds.000++ Ingredients: baby carrots. Hum is all about top service in attractive. The salad tastes slightly smokey. They have a rounder. There are a number of salads to choose from on the Hum menu and our personal favourite is the Artichoke Salad. with vinaigrette. The plate is served with a sweet. green and red — creating a colourful base to the otherwise monochrome dish. more palatable taste.com good enough to eat. This salad is not raw. They lie around the salad like petals to a flower. Set back from the street behind a high-walled walkway. green and yellow bell pepper. The artichoke heart works well with the tangy sundried tomatoes and the delicate crunch of the bell pepper.

coriander. balsamic vinegar and honey. W alking into Prem is like stepping into a Nepali guesthouse. hessian table runner. This salad is not too heavy. fruity mango. the honey vinaigrette is served in a small bowl on the side and can be added to taste. near meditative. The flavours blend well together. it is lovely to look at and delicious to taste.com | November 2016 Word | 107 . with a honey vinaigrette. The Prem Quinoa Salad has a sweet taste. homemade concoction of oil. Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.Prem Salad: Quinoa Salad Price: VND165. black beans. written on yellowed paper inside a handmade book. honey dressing this salad would be too sugary to our taste. tucked behind lush pot plants and opening right onto the concrete with doors wide open. A careful. bell pepper and turmeric.000 Ingredients: quinoa. based as it is on ripe. The Prem menu is a mix of Indian. balanced to create a slightly fragrant tang. corn kernels. The lighting here is soft and the general vibe is peaceful. but without the tart. mango. Served in a beautiful bowl next to a handmade cutlery container and on a light. Each menu cover is different. It lies at the end of a quiet hem. making it ideal for a light and yet wholesome lunch. dotted with sweet corn kernels and tiny pieces of bell pepper. Nepali. wordvietnam.

but most other dishes can be veganized by removing a single ingredient.com G reenS gets most of its business as a takeaway service. light mix of greens and red onion. 108 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. GreenS bases its salads on a lot of fresh. prices are low and the ingredients used are well balanced.000 Ingredients: Romaine lettuce. but it would be a great option for a light lunch or a snack. The Broccoli Raisin Salad is a simple. There are three vegan salads on offer. sending freshpacked salads around the city. The dressing is oily. based as it is on lettuce. while the cheese provides a bit of a tang. District 2. The raisins work well with the red onion and add a slight sweetness to the salad. Their District 2 outlet is to be renovated this November as GreenS develops the sit-down side of their business model. It has two outlets. Like Guanabana. . Perhaps some pine nuts would be a positive addition to this otherwise tasty salad. balancing the palate. broccolini. lifted by the star ingredients — vegan cheese and raisins.GreenS Salad: Vegan Broccoli Raisin Salad Price: VND55. the key appeal of this salad bar is their food not their location. one in a quiet District 1 back alley and the other in the centre of Thao Dien. red onion. but it has been arranged with the balsamic at the bottom so you can choose how much oil you want before mixing the two together. At the moment. They keep it simple and rustic. served with a homemade balsamic vinaigrette. crisp lettuce and other vegetables. It is not the kind of dish that would stay with you for long. raisin and vegan cheese.

cilantro and lime. says that this garnish and the salad dressing were designed with vegan customers in mind. The hot sauces bring spice to the salad. black olives and guacamole. bouncy and fresh. crunchy salad. this salad sits cupped by a freshly baked tortilla. corn. On top of the salad lies a garnish of homemade guacamole. and works well with the crisp tortilla bread. A mound of lightly dressed iceberg lettuce is lain on top of the beans.The BoatHouse Salad: Black Bean Tostada Price: VND185. The restaurant has added three new vegan salad items to what was already a vegan-friendly menu. Boat House’s manager. S itting on the Saigon River with the kind of view that would make you want to set up home right where you sit. It tastes fresh. while the homemade salsa is more sweet than spicy. with a homemade salsa of tomato. onion. jalapeno. wordvietnam. black olives and spicy jalapeno is scattered over it. The Boat House takes gold for location.com | November 2016 Word | 109 .000 Ingredients: Black beans. Jeff. despite its lettuce base. healthy salad. dressed in a citrusy vinaigrette and served in a homemade tortilla bowl. and a cluster of diced tomato. on a base of homemade Mexican black beans. which adds a creamy texture to the otherwise light. Of all the options on the menu. developing fresh ideas and altering some of their house favourites. corn kernels. the Black Bean Tostada is the most exciting — more like a Mexican feast than a light. Served with three bottled hot sauces and a bowl of delicious chipotle salsa made on site. red onion. thirstquenching even. lettuce.

Cousins is a safe bet for a business casual lunch or laid-back date.000) with hints of berries. the concept is similar to its Tay Ho brethren but in a more urban setting. Ba Dinh.3 million) is certified Angus beef from Australia while the lamb rack (VND1. The same went with the beef bourguignon (VND330. But in its unassuming location.000) are par for the course. Cousins excels in having a well-rounded menu for tastes and budgets alike.000 for the full experience — but there’s flexibility with the splurge factor.Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER HANOI Cousins Now with a second restaurant.000) are to be had along with falafel (VND100. Our mystery diner finds out what’s going on. While the pavlova (VND60. With the best of day-to-day cuisine mixed in with the odd gourmet touch from across Europe. the well-established Tay Ho establishment Cousins is upping the dining scene away from the lake. the new Cousins’ enclosed patio dining area provides as much tranquillity as one could hope for in the heart of Hanoi’s business district. The Meal We tried the lamb cutlet (VND310. We paired the meat with a bottle of Parallele 45 (VND690. 110 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. The cutlet did everything it was supposed to — tender and rare. Hanoi . spicy aromas than full-bodied flavours. the ingredients are mostly imports. Cousins’ game is tasty mid-range European fare accompanied with a generous wine list. the wine selection works well with the restaurant’s light-hearted festiveness.com While the menu’s mainstay is French. which was presented in less than five minutes from ordering.000) with risotto. The desserts take a more Eurasian direction with local goodies combined with the rich creamy stuff one would expect from a French gastropub. The ribeye steak for two (VND1.000) and lemon tart (VND70. which was cooked to near perfection.000). It’s never exactly inexpensive — expect to spend at least VND500. Dao Tan. Located just north of the Lotte Tower.000). there were neither good nor bad surprises.000). touches from across Europe and the Mediterranean pop up across the menu.4 million) is from New Zealand. the pièce de résistance is the chocolate cake baked with Da Viet Dark beer (VND90. Spanish chorizo and scallops (VND280. While I normally take my red meat with a rich Bordeaux.000) and tabbouleh with gravlax (VND130. The second location of Cousins is at #7 Ngo 58. Diners can expect more of the cosmopolitan euro-fusion in the unpretentious gastropub setting that made the original location famous. Tucked down an alleyway. Photos by Julie Vola A slice of West Lake gastronomy just took off in Ba Dinh as the Cousins gastropub spreads its wings downtown. Similar to its original location. The wine is mostly French — you won’t find any bargain Australian reds — with more fruity. Cousins doesn’t put on fancy airs.

5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals . 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12. Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.THE VERDICT 14 FOOD 13 SERVICE 14 DÉCOR Food.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.

Food and Drink 112 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com .

That’s the way many traditional Hanoi families often work. rice paper wrappers. As autumn starts giving way to winter. juicy and flavourful. you will come across female vendors selling this carbohydraterich breakfast dish wrapped in banana or lotus leaf. every traditional woman knows how to cook xoi. I would recommend the thit xa xiu or char-siu pork.” What makes me more surprised is that almost all the mix-ins are prepared by the eatery itself. xoi. Say it with Meat Like many others. Yet the main ingredient. Tay Ho) run by a group of sisters born and raised in Hanoi. fried rice.” says Xiu. with a taste that’s hard to find in other xoi eateries in town.” Among the toppings. it’s hard not to consume some form of rice each day. An indispensable part of this country’s culinary tradition. Photos by Leah Rolando W herever you go in Vietnam. Tay Ho and is open from 5am to 10am for breakfast and from 4pm to around 10pm for dinner. And one of my favourite eateries is Xoi Xiu (145E Yen Phu. The cha has a pleasant cinnamon aftertaste. Since then. especially younger people. dumplings. rice porridge.” explains Xiu. The sticky rice is fragrant and well-seasoned with the right amount of salt.com | November 2016 Word | 113 . The eatery offers the normal. “I had the idea of opening a xoi shop. “I have cooked xoi and run this eatery since 1995. Words by Huyen Tran. In the morning. both xoi with meat and rustic xoi have become a part of the culinary landscape.” continues Xiu. I often head for xoi with meat for dinner or as a late night snack. Vietnamese sausage — gio and cha — slow-cooked pork or thit kho. people are obsessed with rice. steamed pork and egg.000 depending on the mix-ins you choose wordvietnam. “A balanced mix of sweet and savoury ingredients enhances the flavour and the browning of the pork. Yet people nowadays. simple sticky rice with natural ingredients grown in the villages of Vietnam. and then I asked my sisters to prepare other toppings. the eatery owner. “It has been more than 20 years and I have always been strict in picking the right type of glutinous rice or my xoi would taste bland. “That way we can control the quality of what we offer to customers. From rice at every family meal to rice noodles.000 to 55. paté. xoi is as much a staple as pho or bun. This is the traditional version of xoi. xoi or glutinous rice is eaten at any time of the day. white version of xoi with various mix-ins such as char-siu pork or thit xa xiu. “We use pork shoulder to prevent the char-siu pork being either dry or fatty. sticky rice. it’s nice to have something hot like a bowl of xoi.STREET SNACKER HANOI Xoi Xiu A Vietnamese staple. and will prepare it for special feasts like weddings and Tet. which is tender. peanuts and corn. A portion of xoi costs from VND15. whole egg or omelette. Another plus point is their papaya salad which is also delicious. It’s a special type of rice from Hai Hau in Nam Dinh. and of course. is always the star of the show. Xoi Xiu is located at 145E Yen Phu. Of the many varieties of rice. In Hanoi. It’s a winner for both taste and texture. Chinese sausage or lap suong. You can choose your toppings according to taste. Many modern xoi eateries have grown in popularity in the past few years. our family members have jobs. And Xoi Xiu is a great place to either stop by and enjoy your food while talking to the friendly ladies or pick your xoi up to go. sticky glutinous rice or xoi is a firm favourite. One tasty version served up with meat can be found at Xoi Xiu. like beans. their homemade Vietnamese sausage — gio and cha — is excellent. also love the modern version with a wide range of mix-ins like chicken breast. which is rustic. It is said that it was only in the late 1990s that people started selling xoi with meat. I use the oil to slowly cook the pork and the browning colour of pork is natural.” Among the mix-ins. except for the Chinese sausage. rice cakes to rice wine.

The manager leads us out of the main dining area a few steps up into what can be best described as a space. Also. the sweaty bodies in view.com pleasant and it’s a comfortable feeling not having to worry about explaining who we are and why we’re here. There’s a bar and then a row of tables along the window opposite which could sit at least 20 diners comfortably. One negative to the lighting we encountered is that it’s not Instagram-friendly. we’re pleasantly surprised that the door isn’t automatic. Parking is always important on date night for any number of reasons. It’s the simple things that keep us happy. so we’re delighted when we discover parking is underground and close to the lifts. The whole restaurant is done out in natural wood furnishings and polished metal giving it an industrial edge. He’s 114 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. but is just as comfortable for couples. there’s a restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City where we don’t have to ask for it. Looking East Whoever came up with the menu is a genius. Looking West. The parking attendant even ushers us into the lift and presses the button for our desired level. The restaurant is on the ground floor of stylish new ‘apart-hotel’ SILA in District 3. we hit up Twenty21one on Facebook for a reservation. instead. This is where we sit after we decide the poolside is too warm. Once seated. the swank. don’t do much for our appetites. Their response is fast and in 10 to 15 minutes we have a table booked for 7pm poolside. but is being opened by the restaurant manager who’s been anticipating our arrival. The main dining area is softly lit and the temperature is cool. In a city where couples are often mixed. sophistication and cuisine of Twenty21One has gained itself some positive feedback. The pictures we took didn’t do the food justice. As we head in. So what does our mystery diner think? Photos by Bao Zoan I n search of dinner.Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER HCMC Twenty21one Recently opened. But don’t get the impression the edge is stark and cold. satisfying both people's . Finally. the place feels warm and romantic. This area lends itself to small gatherings and parties. we’re given a glass of French sparkling wine and a trio of starters to enjoy with a basket of fresh crusty white bread and banh trang me (rice crackers) on the house. seen working out in the resident gym. The hummus proves to be one of the best in town.

beet dressing. Twenty21one is at 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem. we have to try the Asian braised lamb shank with wasabi cheddar mash and charred broccoli rabe (VND185.000) with rocket and mesclun. It’s a crispy skin chicken with caper butter sauce. but somehow manages to keep its skin crispy.000 for a ribeye steak and sides to VND270. we start on the half-litre carafe of Spanish merlot (VND150.5 good to very good 5 — 7. My companion pre-orders the warm date cake with ginger gelato. think ahead. Next up we go for the house special 21 chicken (VND355. which we squeeze in after our mains. In the end we spend VND1. While we mull over what to choose for our mains. The meat is tender and it’s swimming in shallow savoury gravy. Q3. It comes out sizzling and it’s huge. It’s nothing like anything we’ve seen before. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12. juicy. Finally. There are four desserts to choose from at VND135. don’t wear white. It turns out incredible.000 each. While the Looking East menu covers more of the Asian continent with fare from both northeast and southeast.000). Tender. fragrant. It’s delicious. red onion.04 million for a very memorable dining experience and 21 has just got itself another very happy reviewer. avocado. If you’re planning on ordering this.THE VERDICT 13 FOOD 15 SERVICE 12 DÉCOR tastes at dinner is a challenge. but what’s left looks like a dragon fruit that has had a head-on collision with a tour bus.000) out of which we manage to eke four glasses over dinner. There are also four house specials ranging in price from VND495. deserves a chance. broccoli. balsamic glaze and. HCMC Food. roasted beetroot. My only disappointment was I’d eaten all the crusty bread. It comes out looking like an ice-cream cake.000). rosemary and garlic potatoes. something different.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals . The Looking West menu has a notable mix of Greek. Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.000 for fish and chips. sunflower seeds.5 fair to good 0 — 4. Anyone who has the courage to meddle with a lamb shank by giving it an Asian twist. goat’s cheese. The flavour reminds us of mum’s Sunday roast. Italian and French options. We settle on the beetroot salad (VND210.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9. 21 has divided its menu into two sections — Looking West and Looking East.

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Eyeing the two pots of chilli beside my plate.STREET SNACKER HCMC Banh Tam Bi A weird noodle dish from the Mekong Delta that mixes sweet and savoury. and it somehow manages to tread the thin line between dessert and savoury meal. and the wide array of relative ingredients are all laid out ready to eat. Same Dish. It adds to the overall texture. so I take a tour to all three shops and end up at Banh Tam Bi To Chau (271 Nguyen Trai. thin loops of glistening pig skin are laid over the noodles. I’m usually not a fan of pork rind. coconut sauce.000 wordvietnam. and go nicely with the soft coconut cream. or hanh phi. Vietnamese mint and sweet basil. followed by do chua and those token tiny pieces of deep fried red onion. Q1). Words and photos by Zoe Osborne B anh tam bi or ‘silkworm cake’ is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s rarer delicacies. Everyone I ask recommends one of these three. Q1. but the basic ingredients are always the same. one with whole fresh chunks sitting in soy sauce and the other full of the garlic-chilli Saigon favourite. The dish is not heavy but it is filling. tapioca-based noodles that are shorter. sitting back from the street with plenty of room to park the bike. I take a seat in a wide. and walk over to the stand. that adds a crispness to savoury Vietnamese dishes. stemming from the wide range of herbs and vegetables that appear in almost every dish here. The dish comes from the Mekong Delta town of Bac Lieu. and others will replace the do chua with a sprinkling of Vietnamese coriander. The noodles have a glutinous. Little strips of barbecued pork and long. A bowl of banh tam bi costs VND40. Banh Tam Bi To Chau is at 271 Nguyen Trai. A ladleful of rich coconut cream follows. mingling well with the crunch of the cucumber and the fragrant mint and basil. pork and chilli. You can eat banh tam bi at any time during the day — every meal and every dessert is an excuse for a plate or two. Something I love about Vietnamese food is its distinctive freshness. HCMC. which adds a fresh sweetness and lifts the flavour of the entire dish. napkins and the obligatory toothpicks. This shop is almost hidden. They sell a number of dishes other than banh tam bi here. tuong ot toi. not savoury but not completely sweet. as it is mixed together. banh tam bi is a must try for anyone looking for something a little different. like a strange buffet of dishes that I’ve never seen before. Like many of Ho Chi Minh City’s street food restaurants. Some vendors will add peanuts to the garnish for a nutty twist. I order a mug of iced tea with my food and add a few spoonfuls of spice to my coconut cream. I pull up in front of the display. softly-lit room lined with mirrors. fresh herbs and cucumber. shredded pork rind. almost gooey texture. The dish is garnished with a delicate spoonful of spring onions and dressed with nuoc mam. I spot coconut cream and my mouth begins to water — it’s time to make my order. It’s made up of a range of ingredients that tend to sit in glass and metal bowls behind a typical street food display: white silkworm-shaped noodles next to barbequed pork. as you would expect from tapioca. There are three well-known street food restaurants that sell banh tam bi in Ho Chi Minh City. silky and fat like their namesake.com | November 2016 Word | 117 . Different Styles Banh tam bi varies depending on where you eat it. but in this dish it is grated into slim strips. making it not only one of the city’s rarest foods but also one of its most exciting. There are two types of chilli on the table. almost like glass noodles. with its large red letters. adding richness to an otherwise light plate. Next to the condiments are the regular staples — chopsticks and dessert spoons. sitting atop an enticing mound of fresh cucumber. and although its name can make it sound daunting the reality is delicious. the food is arranged at the front of the restaurant and the seating extends behind it. Banh tam bi is just as delicious if you try each element separately.

Photos by Vu Ha Kim Vy 118 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.Travel TRAVEL CAMBODIA Banteay Srei Vu Ha Kim Vy explores Banteay Srei. Here lies the rural Cambodia of the past. a district of Siem Reap. and discovers that its charm doesn’t lie only in the temples.com .

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food and lifestyle. It’s also home to a 10th-century Hindu temple. there is plenty to see in the area.com . the Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity. the Butterfly Centre. so a trip from Siem Reap should take about 45 minutes by car or one hour by tuk-tuk. it’s the opposite of the touristbuilt extremities of Siem Reap. A trip there will give you a chance to learn about Cambodian culture. There’s no Pub Street. Besides the temples. Made out of red sandstone. a medium that lends itself to elaborate carvings. late-night revelling or seed. such as the Kbal Teuk Community Forest. Siem Reap. ox carts. Banteay Srei is a district located 32km northeast of Siem Reap in Cambodia. 120 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. with well-prepared homestays. Instead it’s the kind of place where you find Cambodian rural authenticity with farms. tractors and handicraft villages. This makes it a perfect tonic to its high profile neighbour. Yet. The roads are good and directions clear. the temple is often described as the ‘Jewel in Khmer Art’. the Cambodia Landmine Museum and much more.C onnected to the Angkor Wat temple complex. while Banteay Srei is popular with tourists.

com | November 2016 Word | 121 .wordvietnam.

The entrance fee is included in the temple pass for the main Angkor complex. It’s a masterpiece of carving technique on red sandstone and laterite. so it’s best to combine the visit with trips to other sites. which is US$20 for one day.WHERE TO GO Banteay Srei Temples First built in 967. Kbal Spean and Phnom Bok. Other temple and holy sites include Banteay Samre. If you want to see this temple only. Banteay Srei is a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. The temple was rediscovered in 1914 and restored during the 1930s. It’s also an educational trip for children. it’s the largest fully netted butterfly centre in Southeast Asia. It was rebuilt and expanded in the 11th century. you will have to pay $20 anyway. carvings were added in the 12th century and it was finished in the 14th century. The Butterfly Centre With more than 30 species of Cambodian butterflies.com . as they 122 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

Established by Cambodian Aki Ra.30pm. a landmine clearer.can witness the whole growth process from egg. Depending on the location of the homestay. VietJetAir is also now running direct flights from Hanoi to Siem Reap.30am to 5pm daily and the requested donation is $3 per person. including basket weaving in Preah Dak Village. You can find species under protection including pangolins.com | November 2016 Word | 123 . Guests are asked to pay a minimum donation of $3.com for schedules. this museum has a collection of mines. The Cambodia Landmine Museum There are several handicraft enterprises in Banteay Srei. visit giantibis. such as temple treks. The museum is open from 7. From Siem Reap. There Handicraft Villages Information WHERE TO STAY Banteay Srei has three homestay areas including Tbaeng (+855 964 710 141) with 15 local homestays. you can either take a tuk-tuk or private car to Banteay Srei. is also a mock minefield where visitors can spot the dangers. Visit vietnamairlines. Offering 90-minute guided tours.com for the best-priced flights. and the admission fee is $5 for adults and $2 for children (five to 11 years old). Khmer Nokor leather shadow puppets and Bayon Smile wood carvings. the place is open from Monday to Saturday from 9am to 1pm. animal rehabilitation and breeding of endangered species. pileated gibbons and silvered langurs here. Click on visitbanteaysrei. GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines runs nine daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap. Guided walks are available or you can take a boat trip from the forest to reach Srah Doun Riek — a natural wetland and a popular picnic spot. guests will be able to enjoy appropriate entertainment activities. sugar palm wood carving. this centre is known for its wildlife rescue. including bompong lok or pitcher plants that are carnivorous and capture small insects. wordvietnam.org for more info. cycling trips or farm visits. From Saigon you can reach Siem Reap by bus. caterpillar and pupa through to adult. Banteay Srei Butterfly Centre is open daily from 9am to 4. The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity Kbal Teuk Community Forest and Srah Doun Riek Considered the first nature preservation scheme in Cambodia. Bayon Smile (+855 979 412 832) with six local homestays and Run Ta Ek Ecovillage (+855 889 186 446) with six boutique homestays. Kbal Teuk Community Forest is a new community-based ecotourism plan with a diverse range of flora and fauna. The proceeds are used for mine-awareness campaigns and a rehabilitation and training facility. mortars and other weaponry from Cambodia’s civil war.

Phong Nha stands alone. Phong Nha has gone from a sleepy. When it comes to unadulterated nature. Most of the tours include the caves.com . and getting off the beaten track and onto the not-sobeaten trail. Here is a lowdown of what to do in the area. confined spaces. 124 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Even Lonely Planet likes the place — they now rate it as the second best destination in Vietnam. a trip to the national park is more than just an opportunity to explore underground caverns. But people travel to Phong Nha for more than just Son Doong — entrance to the cave is restricted to a lucky 200 or so cavers a year who travel on tours organised by Oxalis. And for those who aren’t so into dark. and in particular the discovery and then opening to the public of Son Doong.Travel TRAVEL NATIONAL Inside Phong Nha This month marks the start of the tourist season in Phong Nha. outpost on the border with Laos to a full-scale destination. there are other options to while away some time. the largest cave in the world. The reason? The spectacular limestone. jungle-covered scenery. However. Words and photos by Nick Ross O ver the last few years. the home to Vietnam’s best-known caves. There are a host of other outdoor-based activities available in the area.

wordvietnam. ziplining into Dark Cave and swimming.com | November 2016 Word | 125 . The best way to see Paradise Cave and the National Park in general is with the one-day National Park Tour — the day’s activities include kayaking. Please note. Paradise Cave (Thien Duong in Vietnamese) is a step up in terms of the wow factor and requires an on-foot climb. The rock formations are spectacular. Fairy Caves and Royal Court.000 per person. but is worth every bead of sweat. Phong Nha Cave.Phong Nha and Paradise Caves phong-nha-cave.com/tours/nationalpark T his is the basic for anyone visiting the area. with wooden steps taking you down into the depths of the connecting caverns. long open to the public.000 for up to 14 people. the boat trip is nonnegotiable and costs VND350. is reached by boat from the main town. it’s a nice introduction to everything there is to come. Lion. with rock formations given names like Buddha. Lit up with coloured lights. Entrance is VND250.

of course.vn T he ultimate tour. a collection of both dry and river caves in a cave system just outside the national park. as if you’re walking into a land once inhabited by dinosaurs. particularly the one of the cavern as you look through the far entrance of Hang En. twoday trips that include sleeping on a beach inside the cave beneath 100. traversing rivers. are breath-taking. 126 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. All the food and accommodation for the expedition is carried by porters and there are chances for some epic photography. too.vn T he third-largest cave in the world can be reached by regular. The landscapes and rock formations are remarkable. and clambering over rocks.com . four-night trip to Son Doong. trekking through jungle. They are enormous. Hang Va and Hang Nuoc Nut share the same water flow.com. Visitors will be struck by the grandeur of the caverns. Expedition Tours Run by Oxalis oxalis.Hang En Run by Oxalis oxalis. The four-day. Part of the Son Doong cave system. three-night trip to Tu Lan. Two-day tours cost VND8 million per person. climbing and swimming through caves. includes dark-cave abseiling.com.000 swallows. However. while not as spectacular. There are impressive views. There’s something prehistoric about this place. this is oversubscribed and booked up well in advance. The other options. bouldering. is the five-day.

and in our opinion. Airport transfer to Phong Nha costs VND500. Another option is the open tour bus from Ninh Binh or Hue or the train from Hanoi. Taking you to a valley that was once incorporated into the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Getting There Flights with Jetstar Pacfic. the guides lead you through jungle. the principal city in the province.com | November 2016 Word | 127 . The train also stops in Dong Hoi while the bus goes straight to Phong Nha Town.000. wordvietnam. but the water is fresh and cold. the ideal tonic in the tropical heat and sweat of the jungle. with head torches.The Abandoned Valley Run by Jungle Boss junglebosshomestay. VietJet and Vietnam Airlines from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi go to Dong Hoi. this is the best one day trip available. safety equipment and guides.com W e’ve done a few of the caving day trips. It’s echoey and scary being in the dark. The trip then takes you back through the jungle to E Cave where you have lunch — a BBQ cooked over hot stones — before swimming 150m or so into the depths of the cavern. Here you travel 300m or so into the pitch black-cavern. past poison ivy and then into the back entrance of Dark Cave.

it’s best to get yourself on the highly rated. 128 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Taking you through the gardens themselves and to the animal rescue centre.Phong Nha Botanical Gardens ecophongnha. one-day eco-conservation tour run by Mr.com H ome to Gio Waterfall. and there are spots to camp out at dusk to observe wildlife as night falls. the gardens’ diverse flora provides a rich habitat for a range of bird and mammal species. However. an exhibition house. A 3km trek takes you through the 40-hectare gardens. to fully appreciate the botanical gardens. a BBQ lunch. the tour includes swimming in a natural pool. Hai. Vang Anh Lake. 8km to 10km of jungle trekking and an insight into the ecological and conservation side of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. an animal rescue zone and pristine forest.com .

is spectacular. the Pepper House is a good venue to stop for a few hours and enjoy being away from it all. if you want some locally grown pepper. Moi Moi Restaurant and. chill.com P HONG N HA L AKEHOUSE phongnhalakehouse.com/tours/bonglai A favourite trip for those wanting to take out a bicycle. there’s never too much traffic. C HAY L AP F ARMSTAY chaylapfarmstay. often in traditional-style houses. Phong Nha Farmstay also conducts jeep tours and tours on old Ural motorbikes. the 200km-plus motorbike drive from Phong Nha to the next town down.com . Just expect to do a lot of bicycle carrying if you’re heading off-road during the wet season. and the Bong Lai Valley is a wonderful place to explore. And if you’re feeling adventurous. have a beer or two. and while away the countryside time.com E ASY T IGER H OSTEL easytigerhostel. There aren’t too many hills. and the paved roads are good quality. Here are some of our favourite spots: P EPPER H OUSE H OMESTAY pepperhouse-homestay.The Bong Lai Valley phong-nha-cave. As cycling goes.com Cycling. although the five-star or boutique hotel accommodation has yet to make an appearance. Duck Stop. Click on phong-nha-cave. Khe Sanh. Ural Tours and More Bicycles are available for rent or for free use at the guesthouses in Phong Nha Town and at the various homestays and farmstays outside the main drag. Although you need to be vigilant. the area is a little patch of paradise.com P HONG N HA F ARMSTAY phong-nha-cave. hilly area outside Phong Nha with bad roads (part of the fun). There are also numerous trails through the paddy fields to small hamlets and villages reached only by unpaved roads.com H O K HANH ’ S H OMESTAY phong-nha-homestay. Bong Lai Valley is a rural. Accommodation There is loads of accommodation in the area today. Another place to chill out is The Pepper House Homestay. It’s mainly homestay or farmstay based — so in a rural or picturesque location. both inside and outside Phong Nha Town. An oasis of bungalows set around a swimming pool in an idyllic rural setting. Bong Lai Eco Farm.com/tours/jeepural for more information. On the route is the well-known Pub With Cold Beer (they’re famous for their barbecued chicken which is as fresh as it comes). and places to stop.

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3. this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home. Ba Dinh.com 130 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. a spa. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi. TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan.com Probably the cheapest.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop. this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. 110 rooms. Tay Ho. two-storey villa. this popular wellappointed. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Tel: (04) 3938 1048 josephshotel. too. a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use. May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton. the lavish. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam. Do Duc Duc. Great gym and health club. where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi. European-style hostel in town. a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese. this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.com Located near the Dalat Train Station.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter. Boasts two swimming pools. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites.com Excellently located in central Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel. Hanoi. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites. a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. Shortly to become a Marriot property. Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings.com Located in central Dalat. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem.com Located next to the cathedral. Hoan Kiem sixonsixteen. and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh. Ba Dinh. Tay Ho. Hai Ba Trung. comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite. Cau Giay. In addition to the luxurious rooms. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera. and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. features free Wi-Fi. Dalat. Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. Tu Liem. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung. Dalat. Beautiful views.com/9813 Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac- tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Set to the west of town. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8. the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 . and a favourite of the business traveller. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat. great balcony areas. airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. Hanoi. there’s a fitness centre. Tel: (04) 3576 6666 novotel. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong. including a tennis court and spa. a stylish bar. Hanoi. Hanoi. The Orient restaurant. Ba Dinh. uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma. Hoan Kiem. Hanoi. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu.hgi. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen. Dalat. with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150. a swimming pool. a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.hilton.000. Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter. HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm. the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Hanoi. Dalat. this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites. elegant restaurants. Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Quiet. Hoan Kiem.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside. Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. and a la carte restaurant. Hanoi. there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from. this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. an excellent buffet. Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. Tel: (04) 3822 2800 moevenpick-hanoi. INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam. Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House. And like you’d expect. the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. Breakfast is included and in the long. this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar. comfortable. Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi. the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored. Chinese and international cuisine. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious. Q1. Tel: (04) 3733 0688 pullman-hanoi. home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake. Tu Liem. NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan. Tel: (04) 3934 3343 meliahanoi. Dalat. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. State-of-the-art rooms. Tel: (063) 382 2663 M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. colonial era. the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites. this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. Truc Bach Lake and the Red River.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter. Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.000. Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Hoan Kiem. this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Tel: (04) 6270 8888 hanoi.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials. Tel: (04) 3828 5372 hanoibackpackershostel. Hoan Kiem. stylish bars. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House. HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKPACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter. the hotel offers a full service restaurant. HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh. 1 Quang Trung. fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. plus a couple of double suites from VND250. Close to the National Convention Center. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen.Travel DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai. Hoan Kiem. night club and swimming pool. 11 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury.intercontinental.com With deluxe rooms and suites. this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Tel: (04) 3831 5555 hanoi-daewoohotel. My Dinh Commune. and with four restaurants and two bars.com DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau. lounge restaurant on the second floor. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna. sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road. 93 are non-smoking. Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet. a contemporary lobby. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter. Me Tri. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 sofitel. presentations and celebrations. Ba Dinh. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu. Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer.

vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices. Innovative cuisine. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments. Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel. a 600-capacity ballroom. and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. Q1.regency.com ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. SILA URBAN LIVING 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem. 24-hours room service. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre. there is little reason not to choose this shining star. Q1.S. and a fine selection of fine dining. non-city centre choice. Phu Nhuan.com/saigon Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. health club. Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton. 24-hour fine dining. HCMC . Q1. Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu. clean rooms. comfort and connectivity.boutique hotel Next to the cathedral NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 3823 1117 renaissance-saigon. a business centre. In the heart of Saigon. Hoa Hai.vn FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap. sauna and spa. Hoi An.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. Q1.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank). a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town. Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial. Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creativeminded travellers. Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River. this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com. HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi. a 24-hour gym with a 20-meter swimming pool. Q3.com Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien. contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design. Au Trieu.hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation.com Stylish apart-hotel with 217 apartments (from studios to one and two bedrooms) for short and long stays.vn M M M THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh. and limousine services. HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688 lemeridien. Q1. Q1. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool. an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar. Q1.hyatt.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings. presidents — two Bushes. Q5. Hoi An anbangbeachretreat. Q5. Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel. Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi. caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. airport pickup or drop off. friendly service www. HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run. everything one would expect from the Hyatt. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan. Q2. Khue My. Q1.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1. with first–class facilities.park. this upscale.vn LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong. exclusive spa and health club. An ongoing event as well as a hotel. Free wi-fi. Cua Dai.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service. Low prices. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments. Facilities include a 24-hour reception. With an idyllic setting. making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel. Q1. Q1. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang. close to the Reunification Palace on the edge of District 1.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach.com 5.newworldhotels.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town.com HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao.com SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang. the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2. Q1. an innovative cocktail bar. Indochine-influenced design. Q2. And with extensive function facilities. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City.com. and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon. Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel. meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. a first-floor ballroom. gym. Khue My. Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Q1. Danang. Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon. Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel. New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. plasma TV. a sauna. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square.com. Q3. spacious and airy.MID-RANGE room. international breakfast. this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant. Corso. this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks. sauna and steam room. Ngu Hanh Son. the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.com.com. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan. Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.josephshotel.com Immaculate architecture. Western and Eastern specialties are served daily at Twenty-One restaurant and bar. LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang. Ngu Hanh Son. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong. fine dining. together with luxury boutique arcade. lift. Tel: (08) 3744 6090 villasong. Q1.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole. and superb panoramic views of the cityscape.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon. Jacuzzi. this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel. designer shops. Danang. outdoor swimming pool. spa. Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian. Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com CUA DAI $ 544. Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel. Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. as has the landscaped pool. resides the Asiana with signature dining options. a gym.com. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan.com. a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap. Q1. HCMC.vn HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien. Tel: (08) 3930 0800 silaliving.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi. Ngu Hanh Son. Q1. Da Nang. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi.com/ DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa. Beautiful. Ngu Hanh Son.com | November 2016 Word | 131 . Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel. a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great. Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446 wordvietnam. Phu Nhuan. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.com Former guests include U. multi-shower.com Fabulous in style. seven meeting rooms. the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas. friendly staff. Q1. Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort. and a wellness centre including a swimming pool. Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel. Hoan Kiem. an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. prime in location. spacious rooms. Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon. Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.

This isn’t going to attract the five-star. all-luxury-included brigade.000 a night. travellers don’t have much need to leave. two beer gardens.000 range for a main course. a pool table in reception. Lovecats anyone? Or maybe Mr Brightside. Opened three years ago. that is. a rustic untouched spot on the edge of Phong Nha. and prices to match people on a budget. each costing VND180.DESTINATION ZERO PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS T he backpacker trail in Southeast Asia has legendary stop-off points at every step. Want to hop on or off the Open Tour bus to Hue or Ninh Binh? The sleeper vehicles now stop outside Easy Tiger. Decisions. Decisions Next it needs to be an information point.000 to VND100. indoor bench-like seating and a pay-as-you-go bar and restaurant ordering area.000 each and food — Western and Asian — is in the VND40. the National Park or take a trip with the Phong Nha Riders to Bong Lai Valley.000 a bottle. Indochine-influenced contemporary murals are painted onto the walls. Want to know where to go next? The staff will point you the way. With the chill-out facilities all in place. Huda beer goes for VND20. soft drinks are VND15. Easy Tiger hostel in Phong Nha has already etched itself a place in folklore. that’s a lot of beer 132 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. you need somewhere to hang out that isn’t your room. if you’re sleeping in a dorm bed.com . First it’s the accommodation. can make the decision whether to visit the caves in Hang En.com and meals we’re talking about. and a playlist with 1990s and 2000s Indie classics runs through the speakers. For any traveller’s haven to stand out from its contemporaries it needs to fulfill a variety of roles. drink and food. Unless they go to the caves. a place where people coming through the area can find out what to do in Phong Nha. or the Lack Of The final need is for the establishment to be a place to chill out. There’s a swimming pool out back. the budget traveller still has money to spend. — Nick Ross For more information click on easytigerhostel. Easy Tiger is this and more. the leafy. Decisions. Attractive. Easy Tiger has 108 dorm beds. You want to book a tour? Here they can make the booking and push you in the right direction. Privacy. but despite their penny pinching ways. After all. a hammock area housed under a reclaimed traditional Vietnamese house. With over 100 people a day cramming into this spacious establishment.

com | November 2016 Word | 133 .Easy Tiger wordvietnam.

well-designed interior and its ability for its guests to find true peace. villas and suites. each of these villas is huge — 475sqm huge. one living room. Designed to complement the other accommodations in the property including the condos. Mia Nha Trang has also become known for its contemporary. kitchen and media room. And that’s just the interior. . sun. Sat 18km from 134 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Set in a bay with a backdrop of soaring cliffs and a road winding its way above.com Nha Trang and close to Cam Ranh Airport. The Villas The resort has now moved to the next level with the May 2016 opening of its new five-bedroom beachfront villas. then you may never need to leave. Built over a threestorey building. one kitchen and one media room. isolation. relaxation and comfort. it’s a shuttle bus or a taxi ride away. each villa contains five bedrooms. great cuisine and sea. If you want the big city. The top floor consists of a living room. If you want privacy. Opened to the public in 2011. Compared to other accommodations. upscale resort stand out from its contemporaries. location certainly makes this elegant.DESTINATION ZERO T hey say that location is everything. Everything is designed for travelling with friends or family. sand. dining room. And in the case of Mia Nha Trang. these new villas might just provide one the best group or large-family experiences you’ll have in a beach resort in Vietnam. there is something special about this little slice of paradise. seclusion is a big part of the game here.

next to picturesque scenery of mountains on one side and ocean on the other. or a mango smoothie to cool down a hot summer afternoon. With an ocean view. Or if all you want is to have a swim while being able to socialise and enjoying your favourite wine and cuisine. Cam Lam. Although the resort’s Sandals restaurant serves a wider range of cuisine.com | November 2016 Word | 135 . Khanh Hoa. Mia Nha Trang might be more upscale than most other resorts in the area. A fully equipped kitchen is also available for those who want to maintain their daily family life with their favourite homecooked cuisine. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Mia Nha Trang is at Bai Dong. La Baia is an ideal spot for an Italian coffee while catching the early morning rays. two double beds and one twin bed. La Baia restaurant opened its doors last month to resort guests and those from outside. La Baia focuses on authentic Italian classics and seafood. La Baia The five-bedroom villas are not the only new facility at Mia Nha Trang. the lower floors are for bedrooms including two king-size beds.com for more info wordvietnam. Visit mianhatrang. but the landscape. The 1.200sqm outdoor area will trigger your senses with a large infinity pool.Mia Nha Trang PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY equipped with full glass windows and sliding doors. a lounge area and a BBQ installation. ambience and experience it offers are priceless. or a creative cocktail on a breezy evening with the sound of the waves striking against the shore. La Baia has an infinity pool on the terrace.

spa. European sausages.com COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Phan Thiet.com. Phu Quoc.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods. Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana. Khanh Hoa. Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay. Cu Nam. airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands. Mui Ne. an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong. Motorbike rental. sangria. Thua Thien Hue. Nha Trang. a seafood restaurant. Cam Lam. Phan Thiet.com Includes three massive swimming pools. Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses. Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels. Hue. Bo Trach. Discount rates during rainy season. Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses. Cam Hai Dong. PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village. Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton. Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave. M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap.000 for a twin or double.com and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. this well-appointed. beauty salon and jacuzzi.com A leafy. Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang. Long Beach. The Banyan Tree offers privacy 136 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. draught beer. with a family room for five costing VND1.000) each a night. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. The location is stunning. the bungalows are made of rammed earth. Coco Beach con- tinues to be run by those who opened it in 1995. the jungle and nature.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang. the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet. Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay. Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue. Rooms start at VND600. Quang Binh. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. restaurant. Ninh Thuan. Ham Tien. Quang Binh.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang. boat trips and tours are easily arranged.com M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach. Each massive room has its own espresso machine. Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms. Phu Quoc. on a bay accessible only by boat.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast. a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Quang Binh. Grilled seafood. Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Hai Chau. Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam. Has a pleasant.4 million a night. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. Ninh Hoa. Tel: (062) 384 7177 joescafemuine. soon to become a fully fledged resort. a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant.com PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son. Bo Trach. Mui Ne. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc. Bo Trach. Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.Travel Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine. Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels. Hue.com/en/lang_co Built on a crescent bay.net With charming wooden bungalows. Evenings are sublime at this beach club. SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu. Ninh Hoa. spa. Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02 salindaresort. M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/destination 2. Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam. no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort. Phu Loc.com Set on the Han River.com Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport. and includes free Wi-Fi. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas. each with a private pool.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha. pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with . Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. the sea. Complete with a pool. Mui Ne. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island. M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach. Danang. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1. Xa Duong To.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu. Khanh Hoa. bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. Duong To Commune.com VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach. Dien Duong Village. Mui Ne. Khanh Hoa.com PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi. Quang Nam. this budget place is all about hammocks. a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang. Ninh Hai. Phu Loc. Phu Quoc Island. a private beach. Loc Vinh Commune. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi. Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant. Nha Trang. a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.vn life-resorts. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay. Phan Rang. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Hue. Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel. this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area. Loc Vinh Commune. all with a terrace and sea view. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Phan Thiet. Hoa Cuong Bac. Khanh Hoa. Thua Thien. seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one.com/nhatrang M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702. this resort offers verandah dining.

Tel: (04) 3926 2828 handspan. handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.contemporary design.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam. Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels.com Established in 1997. M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. Xuyen Moc. Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel. Myanmar and Thailand. Hanoi. two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. Also organize longer. Con Dao. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham. With expert guides and guaranteed departures.vn HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort. vn Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact. Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu. domestic and international air booking and travel insurance. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune. Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy. Ward 4. diverse. Q1. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. Tan Binh District. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung. Thao Dien. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (04) 3828 0702. TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours. hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. balconies.com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean. high quality.. Ext.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta.com CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan. to corporate companies. Tel: (04) 3828 0702 buffalotours. many including insights into culinary customs. as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel. com). Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense. and log fireplaces. and cycling and motorbike tours. explore the world or Vietnam. wordvietnam. restaurants. Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City.com). Hanoi. Laos and Cambodia. Sapa. Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992. Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. Extras include tennis courts. Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses. The Bluffs. Hoan Kiem. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di. Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge. a mini supermarket. Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant. Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Tel: (04) 3944 8844 hgtravel. Q1. all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond.com | November 2016 Word | 137 . Ha Noi. including global travel management. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram. offering innovative day tours. American Airlines (aa.com SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach. Can Tho City. 103 Nguyen Truong To. From corporate travel to small group tours. small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam. Also find travel desks at the Hilton. Tel (08) 3519 4111. an exclusive VIP area.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant. Q2. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010. Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. Ba Dinh. Vung Tau.com. EXO TRAVEL 41. 15/17/19 exotravel. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours. Vung Tau. cuisine. high-tech meeting space. Ba Dinh. Hoan Kiem Dist. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don. a world-class casino. The rooms have big windows. one of the best golf courses in Vietnam. M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. The property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies. or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. English-speaking tour guides lead the way. Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. history and culture. M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May. 2nd Floor.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. Hanoi. 157 Pasteur. Halong Bay. Providing up-market services. Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.com This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips.com. trekking in the highlands.COM beeninasia. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. renewable biodiesel. Vung Tau. and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.com Escape the bustle with Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Laos.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. family and individual travelers.com A one-stop.com Flight travel services. TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu. BEENINASIA. Q3. short breaks and small group adventures.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley. the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095 grasshopperadventures. which are open on weekends and holidays. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim. Handspan provides customers with safe. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao.com info@beeninasia. Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel. Mekong Delta. Hanoi. Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives.

The solar eclipse of 1995 reversed all that. sea. mini-marts. In a Ferment By Don Wills Most visitors combine a visit to the dunes with a side trip to Fairy Stream. The sand dunes are one of Mui Ne’s prime attractions. Mui Ne has undergone a major transformation. and so are more prone to litter and pollution. I . The sand dunes are a bit too far to reach by taxi. The 10-kilometre stretch of highway along the beachfront is now built-up with luxury resorts. If you wade the full two-kilometre length of the stream (it never gets more than knee-deep) you’ll encounter interesting rock formations and traverse a small canyon. souvenir shops. and is now one of Vietnam’s major tourist attractions. It’s a dangerous stretch of road.com bargain furiously. You can also hire dune buggies or quad-bikes. They’re smaller than their white cousins. On the unfinished pathway to the stream you are assailed by the aroma of fish sauce fermenting in large clay pots — it’s one of Mui Ne’s specialities. “No. and the water itself is orangey-red from the clay and limestone particles that filter in from the surrounding slopes. The ever-changing dunes are sculpted by the ocean winds. Mui Ne is still a seaside idyll out of the postcards Mui Ne is famed for its fishing port and its seafood M ui Ne was once a sleepy fishing town that few people had ever heard of. the red dunes are more accessible. and nightclubs stacked side by side. The bed of the gently flowing stream is red mud. but there’s an inexhaustible supply of jeeps or moto-taxis ready to take you there. and put you in mind of the Sahara. But they are spectacular at sunset. What is it about Mui Ne that attracts people? In a nutshell: sun. The white dunes are 45 minutes away from town. Be warned — plenty of people fall prey to the drivers’ tiresome scams. and great fun.NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY Despite mass development. taxis hurtle along with horns blaring and a casual disregard for pedestrians or fellow road users. An unfortunate feature of what is otherwise a chilled-out town. sand dunes and seafood. restaurants. At 20 minutes away from town. and even go ostrich riding. Since then. surf. beach bars. thousands of astronomers and curious tourists streamed in to observe the phenomenon. hotels. You’ll hear cameras clicking away non-stop. attract more visitors. You’ll be besieged by children pressing their plastic sleds on you — good value provided you 138 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

Or. restaurants and big stores there’s usually at least one Russian speaker on duty. The 10km-long beach is lined with palm trees and blessed with blue skies much of the year round. The possibility of rain is minimal. you can take a train.ENTRY 9: One of the best known spots in the area are the white sand dunes said fifty thousand.” “That was a little over 10 kilometres.com | November 2016 Word | 139 . There are still signs that Russian tourists once flooded the town. but you come across avaricious. Mui Ne is 200km away from Ho Chi Minh City — four hours by bus. This dish is from Joe’s Café schools on hand. no worries. Mui Ne gets just 50cm a year. and there’s often a strong rip-tide. It’s only in the very early morning or on the odd calm day that swimmers can do their thing without unduly worrying. Surf’s up from August to December. not per trip. A strong cross-onshore wind creates the ideal conditions for them. Although the water is warm. The Russian influx slowed to a trickle in late 2014 with the meltdown of the Russian rouble. not fifteen thousand!” “The price I quoted is per head.” Wearying. shop and restaurant signs and menus are in English and Russian. They don’t go all the way though. 40km short of Mui Ne. and among the staff of the hotels. it’s less than ideal for swimming. There are still signs that Russian tourists once flooded the town. shop and restaurant signs and menus are in English and Russian. The waves can be unruly. and among the staff of the hotels. scheming drivers in other countries as well. I know. [but this] slowed to a trickle in late 2014 with the meltdown of the Russian rouble. He’s been writing his way around the region for decades "For many years Mui Ne was a magnet for Russian travellers. so the price is doubled. If you’ve never wind-surfed before. To proceed from there you’ll need to take a taxi or bus. Surf’s Up Mui Ne Beach and Suoi Nuoc to the north is a Mecca for water sports enthusiasts. restaurants and big stores there’s usually at least one Russian speaker on duty" wordvietnam. For many years Mui Ne was a magnet for Russian travellers. Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. only as far as Binh Thuan Station. there are plenty of wind-surfing Mui Ne International cuisine is a pound a penny in Mui Ne these days. but that’s not to say the surfing is anything great — okay for learners. Born in New Zealand. so much so it became known as “the Russian village”. but not much more. Four trains a day depart from Saigon station bound for Mui Ne. wind surfing and kite-boarding are the attractions here. No.

com .Hanoi Day Tripper: The Replica Village / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Medical Buff / Starting a Family / A World of Good Photo by Julie Vola 140 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001.com M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP SKATESHOP THREE TREES 84 Hang Dieu. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 booskateshop.com 15 Nha Tho. their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle. 100 Lo Duc. Tay Ho. Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair. Call to arrange membership. Tay Ho. fundraising events and much more.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu. g HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE issuu. but international cuisine. skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics.com Stocks women’s wear.com AUSCHAM 4th Floor. Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam. Puts on monthly networking events. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.com. from petite to average to the generous figure. CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 23 Nha Chung.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Designing pieces that are trendy. Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace. with regular events and more. Hoan Kiem. They also offer culinary tours. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen. deep tissue massage. gala dinners.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines. Hoan Kiem. 1A Nghi Tam. leather bags. Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham. AIRLINES HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam. Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994 auschamvn. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3928 8725 M M M AIR FRANCE airfrance. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.org M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA 23/67 To Ngoc Van. Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub. Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines. No 1 Thanh Nien. Ba Dinh. as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Ground floor. Tel: (04) 3825 4068 M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair. 24 Ly Quoc Su. 1 Thanh Nien. shirts.org The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital.org ICHAM Sofitel Plaza. Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.com HANOI OIS THINGS OF SUBSTANCE NETBALL CLUB AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX hanoinetball@gmail. where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. Ba Dinh. Hoan Kiem. pants.org EUROCHAM G/F. Hoan Kiem. Clothes fit all sizes. InterContinental Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs. Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv. retail outlet and café.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines. Tel: (04) 3926 4831.com. says it all. Only available online.com JEWELLERY CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu.org SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel. Tel: (04) 3726 4896 22A Hai Ba Trung. this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Tay Ho. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. Tel: (04) 3824 4607.com/hanoiholistichealth A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. shoes and handicrafts. Has a second shop in Tay Ho BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu. the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Ba Dinh. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.org 21 Hai Ba Trung. Tay Ho. Vietnamese prices”. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock. Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes. held in a beautiful setting. 1/28 Nghi Tam Village. elegant. Services include craniosacral therapy. this shop offers a huge range of dresses. 58 Hang Trong. Tel: (04) 3934 2790 amchamhanoi. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Tel: (04) 3715 3711. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing. Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books. but a great information source. offering a sense of exclusivity. Tay Ho. M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. 6B Lang Ha. M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho.jal.com 5 Nha Tho. Tel: (04) 3936 2151 CLUBS & SOCIETIES XUNHASABA AMERICAN CLUB ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE EVENT SPACE 32 Hai Ba Trung. Western and yet distinctly Asian. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts. 9 Xuan Dieu. Tay Ho.com . Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007. Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien. CCIFV Sofitel Plaza.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school. CONTRABAND GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE AIR ASIA airasia.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. 13 Hang Bac. Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945 bbgv. but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies. 1 Thanh Nien. With over 15.Hanoi Essentials ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com. Ba Dinh.com a-roamingbodyworker. prenatal massage. TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE M M M LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS 44 Trang Tien. Ba Dinh sbav-hanoi. Hoan Kiem. healing stones massage.com CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van. DVDs and more.vn COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu. BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu. Contraband targets young hip working women.com The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair. Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960 chulafashion. new and old. Workshops are also available.

before her enthusiasm is extinguished by the padlock on the Hmong house. In the Dao village. we come across signs of life. and takes less than 90 minutes by motorbike with little traffic. or tea. as vast. 49 of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities are represented by small individual village reconstructions. we are directed to the left and onwards into the ethnic villages area. the Vietnam National Village for Ethnic Culture and Tourism (VNV) is a world away from the daily grind of city life. spread across four zones. Instead. 142 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. “Wow. The experience is surreal L ocated near Ba Vi National Park. flapping in the wind. we find an open house. around 50km from Hanoi. a Khmer wat and ancient Cham temples. vacant six-lane roads connect the highway to the VNV complex. Easy Riding The route to VNV is simple. where empty parking lots stretch out as far as the eye can see.” says my companion. Combining replicas of ethnic minority villages. Is There Anybody There? Currently. Several tribes and several padlocks later. We approach a large stop sign. After a Dao woman shows us how to cut wood for medicine. my companion . and still without a single other visitor or staff member in sight. As we enter zone one. or neither. the ghost town atmosphere thickens. there is more than enough to see in this medley of monuments to make it worth a day trip. the Hmong tribe! Their clothes have the most beautiful designs. and less time scanning the road itself for potholes or homicidal bus drivers.DAY TRIPPER Edward Dalton visits the Vietnam National Village for Ethnic Culture and Tourism near Ba Vi. complete with rainbow bunting and national flag. where I expect the security guards to tell us to go home.com This means you can spend more time appreciating the countryside. flanked by thick vegetation on both sides. The main highway to get there is a well-maintained stretch of tarmac. Arriving at VNV feels strange.

com | November 2016 Word | 143 . a stringed instrument. On the other side of the same area. In 2015 alone. a type of flute. we come across a convincing replica of a golden Khmer wat. but it’s still impressive and good selfie material. Phony Schmony After leaving the ethnic village area. Giving up.” says the Dao woman. It’s a taste of something otherwise inaccessible to those without the time nor money to travel south. while their TripAdvisor entry has five reviews in total. follow Tran Duy Hung southwest out of the city and continue along CT08. studying culture at university. and find lashings of gold paint and plastic. where we are invited in for tea.000 tourists over the last six years. the entrance to VNV will be on the right hand side of the road. Around 13km after passing Hoa Lac. taking the wood and knife to demonstrate again. ambitious project deserves more love than it now gets. wordvietnam. Sports and Tourism. “Khong.The Replica Village PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA tries to copy the technique. an imposing replica Cham temple looms over the surrounding vegetation. The Dao village elder then begins a song dedicated to Uncle Ho. The illusion disintegrates as we get closer. khong. a huge billboard in Vietnamese and English on a roundabout — you can’t miss it. joins our group and plays a song on his sao. VNV has welcomed around 300. we move on to another house. This unfinished. At the time of writing. khong. played on a dan tinh. According to the Ministry of Culture.5 million tourists. Getting There From Hanoi city centre. the VNV Facebook page has six likes. while his friends sing softly and jingle bells. Halong Bay welcomed around 2. A Hanoian student.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE 24 Ly Quoc Su. No. and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss . seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh. Ba Dinh. Hai Ba Trung. Alley 12. 144 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 6682 0400 SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER 51 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro. Hoan Kiem. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.com A place to work. 51 Xuan Dieu.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu.IN. Tel: (04) 3826 2076. workshops. but they are 229 Tay Son. Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam. Tel: (04) 3928 7666. Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548 linhmart.Germany) for refractive surgery. Hoan Kiem.vn PARKSON Viet Tower Plaza. 1 Thanh Nien. Tay Ho. My Dinh.org The first experimental art space in Hanoi. Hoan Kiem. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. workshops and a wide range of art events.Hanoi Essentials several locations around the region.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern. Syrena Center.com WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl. Cau Giay. Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice.vn ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL NATURALLY VIETNAM HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67. Tay Ho. Tel: 0906 200434 australiandentalclinic. Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart. Tel: 1900 555596 LOTTE CENTER 54 Lieu Giai. Tay Ho. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES 34 Nghi Tam. 51 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3719 9911 M M M ANNAM GOURMET UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON GROCERY SHOP ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY GROCERIES & LIQUOR HAIR STREAM JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh.com L'S PLACE GROCERIES / DELI First Floor. Tel: (04) 3266 8190 HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS 44 Nguyen Du. Tel: 0989 067888 serenitydentalclinic. Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet. Ba Dinh. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. Ba Dinh. 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu. Thanh Xuan. Tay Ho.com 136G Tran Vu. Tay Ho workroomfour. Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc. Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES. Hoan Kiem. Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500 INDOCHINA PLAZA 241 Xuan Thuy.vn LINHMART 116. Hanoi. Dong Da. Ba Dinh. Hai Ba Trung.com/manzihanoi Founded in 2012. Tel: (04) 3974 3550 . Tel: (04) 3333 6016 lottecenter. Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc. Tel: 0987 718899 The Manor. courses.wordpress. this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions. artist studios. 27 Xuan Dieu. Tay Ho. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards. Tel: (04) 3715 3717 bumrungrad. Tay Ho. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas. artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. the non-profit. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook. Tel: 0904 244941 NHA SAN COLLECTIVE KITCHEN ART GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS KITCHENWARE 24 Ly Quoc Su. Ba Dinh. with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand.com BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS 14 Phan Huy Ich.Germany).com On the little street directly below Kim Ma. Tel: (04) 3733 2131 vnfam.vn JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. 23rd Floor. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3974 9999 VINCOM ROYAL CITY 72A Nguyen Trai. CYCLING Tel: (04) 3928 5190 artvietnamgallery. The clinic provides the highest quality technology. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400. Tel: (04) 3715 3666 jieh. 65 Le 2A Cua Bac. Tay Ho. enabling them to make an income and care for their families. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 SHOPPING MALLS TOP-END SALON 3 Xuan Dieu. Pediatricians and ENT.com. 53 Ly Nam De. Hoan Kiem. comfort and after-service care to patients. 198 Tay Son. the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss . neck and knee pain. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226.com Established in 2002. FRUIT & VEG 99 Xuan Dieu. Tay Ho. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. Tel: (04) 3718 4487 162A Hoang Hoa Tham.vn/en ACC provides effective chiropractic. Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma. DON’S TAY HO MANZI BICYCLE RENTALS GALLERY & BAR / CAFE 16 Quang An.com NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd floor. 28 Xuan Dieu. contacts and events.vn RED APRON 10 Da Tuong. com 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Tay Ho.com Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa. allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. Giang Vo. Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST. Ba Dinh. Hanoi. Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Ba Dinh. Top-end customer service and a friendly.000. Tel: (04) 3719 7214 TRANG TIEN PLAZA cnr.com HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long. Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.vn GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST 15 Kim Ma. Hoan Kiem.com. exhibitions.vn DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM 3 Nguyen Du. Tay Ho. Duan. Hoan Kiem. Hai Ba Trung. physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back. Tel: (4) 3265 6888 acc. Soc Son and Dalat. Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666 PICO MALL WINE RETAILER THE OASIS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER parkson. Tel: 0985 870316 nhasanstudio. 19 Nguyen Truong To. D4 Dormitory. Hoan Kiem. contemporary environment add to the mix. Ba Dinh. the shop employs women in rural areas. Tel: (04) 3715 2286 peacedentalclinic. Ba Dinh. Tel: 04 3939 3907 LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza. Tay Ho. Hang Bai and Trang Tien. Tay Ho. An Duong Vuong. Hanoi trangtienplaza. Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong. Hoan Kiem. To Ngoc Van.com HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DA LOC DINH HAIR SALON WINE RETAILER HAIR SALON 96 Hai Ba Trung. SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC WORK ROOM FOUR DENTAL CLINIC Packexim Building Tower 1. 49 Lane 15. 70 Hang Bac. Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES 29 Nhat Chieu. 38 Quang An. sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems.vn Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage. this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades.M WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER 48A Ly Thuong Kiet . A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors. Me Tri Street.

Keangnam Office Tower. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. Duy Tan. 46 Van Bao. Class sizes are small. Press Club. Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS 17 Ve Ho. Sofitel Plaza.com.used to treating expats. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec. Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488 M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL. Tel: (04) 3936 5370 insuranceinasia. MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS 37 Ta Hien.com INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham. Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.vn St.com. Gamuda Gardens. Ciputra. Tel (04) 3758 2664.vn REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor. Tel (04) 6666 1818 kinderworld. Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.4 Phap Van. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound. Cau Giay. Tel (04) 3726 1601. Ba Dinh. 59A Ly Thai To. Hoang Mai. Hai Ba Trung. Ba Dinh. Tay Ho. HoaiDuc. Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified.com | November 2016 Word | 145 . Hoan Kiem. Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111 libertyinsurance. Tel (04) 3934 7243. Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. as well as specialist programmes from Britain.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS No.com A selective.net/sis Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. C5 – C11.com LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor. 67 To Ngoc Van. ST. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai . Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations. Hoang Mai. The Manor Building. PAUL AMERICAN SCHOOL HANOI Khu Do Thi Bac AnKhanh. Tel (04) 3764 0209 kinderworld. restoration.com MOTORBIKE RENTALS 106 Hang Bac. Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bishanoi.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS R714. An international school that collaborates with schools around the globe to set high expectations and align with rigorous standards so that students will have a wonderful opportunity to attend a great university in the future. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Vinhomes Riverside. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. Ba Dinh. Blg CT13B Ciputra.vn HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL 55 Yen Ninh. Shophouse CT17. Tay Ho. pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi. Km 4. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL 12 Chu Van An. Tu Liem. Tel: (04) 3399 6464 stpaulhanoi. repairs and rentals. Tel: (04) 3743 0589 gialonghousing. Dinh Cong. 1.qsi. Tel: (04) 7305 8880 hongngochospital. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. 1st floor.org QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line wordvietnam. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. Also a 24-hour emergency service. Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai. Road 2. Xuan La. Tel: (04) 3938 1105 LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS 38 Hang Hom. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem. Lac Long Quan. Tel: Tel: 0933 534999 houseinhanoi. Khu B1 Pham Hung. Tay Ho. Block C3. Lac Long Quan.050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane. Tel (04) 3743 0306. Long Bien.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. My Dinh. 106 Hoang Quoc Viet. Tay Ho. HANOI Hoa Lan Road. M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS 6 Ngoc Van.com. Tel: 3540 9183 isvietnam. Pending authorization. Hoan Kiem. 1 Thanh Nien. INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai. Ba Dinh.vn INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu. Dai Kim Urban Area. 3rd Floor. Dong Da. UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828 hanoirenting. independent.com KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10. international education options in the capital. Ciputra. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. paediatrics and specialist care. Cau Giay.com With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education. HIS is one of the few private. Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS 13 Ngo Huyen. Tay Ho. America and Canada. Ct13b building. Tel: (04) 3927 5568. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai. Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. co-educational day school. Hoan Kiem.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.org Established in 1988. Tel: (04) 3832 8140 hisvietnam. Hoa Binh International Towers. FRENCH HOSPITAL IGCSE and A Level.org A non-profit entity. 809. A notfor-profit entity. Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh. Paul Hanoi has developed a strong reputation for providing a high quality American education. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi. An Khanh. Tel: (04) 3718 6332 fair-realestate. with students taking CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building.org A not-for-profit. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra. Does sales. all taught by qualified teachers. of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International.

this type of questioning can quickly wreak havoc on a person’s self-esteem. the world BY KAREN GAY would be a much more peaceful place. Is this what small children see when they look at each other. At one point in the story. the beauty of their Divinity? If so. you see them look into each other’s eyes. a beautiful woman tries to undergo a procedure to disfigure her face because the society in which she lives views her as ugly. If we looked beyond the surface to see a person’s inner beauty could there be hate. a doctor describes the woman’s face as “the face of her real self”. I often wonder when and why this ease of embrace so often disappears. fear. With this belief in mind we are asked to look beyond the physical body and recognize the Divine nature of every human being. Karen Gay. visit a-roamingbodyworker. Although I would argue that a person’s face does not reflect their “real self”. is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. Skimming the Surface Via the media. our Divinity. and to bring it up from the deep to see the beauty in us all.com groups. The number of comments I received about how beautiful I looked led me to ask myself.THE ALCHEMIST LOOK DEEP B eauty is in the eye of the beholder. In one episode of the American television series. we receive messages all the time about the concept of beauty. so the expression goes. Child’s Play If you have ever watched small children as they encounter one another. a Hindu salutation. Regardless of race or gender. I recently took part in a fashion show where professional hair and make-up artists augmented our facial features. you see them smile. is an acknowledgement of our Divine nature and is a way of honouring and respecting that Divinity. The Twilight Zone. am I not beautiful without the make-up and designer clothes? If left unchecked. Divine Nature Namaste. This inner child is our real self. war? If each of us were to recognize the Divine in the other and to embrace our own Divinity. When doing healing work we are often asked to connect with our inner child to comfort and soothe that child in us that may have been wounded at some point in our life. the implied message is to look beyond the surface to see the beauty that lies within a person. our family and social 146 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. which has become popularized by Yoga and spiritual groups around the world. The majority of these messages depict only the superficial aspect of beauty which is subjective yet powerful and can lead to unhealthy self-perception.com . A-Roaming Bodyworker. laugh and enjoy their coming together. So how do we recognize the “real self” in others or even our own real self? Spiritual teachers often remind us that we are spiritual beings having a human experience. then for no other reason than this would it be a wonderful idea to connect with our inner child. they are enthralled with each other. It is her attempt to gain acceptance. For information on the types of services provided.

Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn. JVK is currently a leader in the field. Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness. office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. cultural training. away from the confusion of Hanoi’s busy streets.com The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi. but be prepared to pay. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van. Vinyasa.com A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. 62 Ly Thuong Kiet. Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative.com.1515 studio5. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location. Tay Ho.vn . Tel: (04) 3755 1617 metro. 51 Xuan Dieu. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 2218 5757 hanoisport.com. The Manor. Membership and group rates are available. Provides treatments including oriental ritual. separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. 14 Tran Binh Trong. Meditation sessions. Tel: (04) 3934 2999 FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor. 12A Ho Xuan Huong. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. Tay Ho.vn SCORE-TECH 44. Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl. Garden Shopping Centre. facial and waxing.com. FITNESS & YOGA & SPAS BODY&SOUL SPA House 71. immigration services and records management. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. Allied Pickfords moves over 1. cakes and coffee. Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness. Has a full range of services — domestic moves. Tay Ho. orientation. and Kundalini classes. My Dinh. UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING 13 Hang Dieu. massage. classes and children’s events. Tu Liem. Ba Dinh.vn Body&Soul Spa Hanoi is located in a relaxing environment on the lotus ponds of West Lake. Ngach 2 Dam Tri. Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING 84 Hang Dieu. ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION 247 Au Co. Vietnam Trade Hotel.com With over 150 offices around the world. 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821. Tel: 0904 356 561 zenithyogavietnam. They offer clinics. Hanoi Towers. Cau Giay.vn Although a little hard to find. Co Nhue. Tay Ho. pet transportation.vn SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung. Cau Giay. Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo. Tu Liem bigc. Mai Dich. Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com M M M Essentials RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302. Tel: 0904 241314 bodyandsoul.Hanoi VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS 21 Alley 1/22 Au Co. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. This place is top of the range. with 130 offices globally. Tel: (04) 3771 3305 umove. Hoan Kiem. Santa Fe offers local and international moving.000 families in over 175 countries every day. clothes and yoga props. Hoan Kiem METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong. Hatha. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 bosua. Dang Thai Mai. Tel: (04) 6263. Hoan Kiem. schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Hoan Kiem.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies. VietClimb is a French-owned. Hoan Kiem INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To. Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out. Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga. ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE AGS FOUR WINDS PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA 41A Ly Thai To.com.vn VIETCLIMB CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong. 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment.vn CITIMART Ground Floor. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. relocation services including home search. Tel: (04) 3718 8246 score-tech. Tel: (04) 3718 5203 vietlonghousing.alliedpickfords. but be sure to check out the three-month pass. as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals. Hai Ba Trung. SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS 19 Nui Truc. Also have a yogic shop offering incense.com The largest home moving company in the world. Tay Ho. Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar. 135 Bui Thi Xuan. MMM SPORTS. Tay Ho.vn HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146. Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds. Hoan Kiem.

Often. relationships or moods that make life difficult. Psychotherapy is a practice that is more common in cultures where individualism is the norm. but it is too much for me. I am a Vietnamese woman. One of the challenges for me is to find a balance in a country that has two or three different economies. Personal details will not be printed . not only Vietnamese. We expect that to take time.com. A client will feel that the therapist is supportive of them. Having a confidential and supportive place to sort out issues is important for all people… everywhere. Because the cost is high they may hope to get “fixed” as quickly as possible. Wishing you wellness. About 90% of the clients (another word for patients) I see are English-speaking foreigners. I think it means that the trust and connection that forms with the therapist allows a person to look at and understand themselves more deeply. If there are traumas or negative messages that have impacted them it is important they revisit those experiences to understand what the impact has been. I am happy to answer your questions. Often they are looking for expert advice or they come to consult about the problems they are having for one or two sessions. A fee that is affordable for them. depression. — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail. I called a local medical practice that is for foreigners in Ho Chi Minh City. in Vietnam seeing a psychologist is not normal and I wonder if working with Vietnamese patients is the same as working with foreign patients. Some clients will stay in therapy for a year or more. Is it always expensive to see a psychologist? Also. change happens when we pull back the layers to gain a deeper understanding of who we are and how to affect change in our lives. not realising that it usually takes several sessions to understand the problem and to work on changes that are long lasting. These assumptions are not totally false. who has lived for three years in Germany and returned to Vietnam one year ago. together we assess their need for therapy and a realistic fee that will allow them to continue to come. Wondering… I hope I have answered your questions and I hope you can find a qualified psychotherapist who can help you sort out your problems. I have a lot of questions for you. It is most common for clients to expect to meet for six to eight weekly sessions and often much longer. but the therapeutic process is not only about exchanging information. Are people the same? — Wondering about psychotherapy and needing some help Dear Wondering. friends and family are enough — but not always. For that reason I have a sliding fee for about 25% of my clients. I am limited to English speakers because I have not yet learnt to speak Vietnamese well. Many foreigners have insurance that will pay a percentage 148 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. which makes it unaffordable for many people in Vietnam. Psychotherapists and psychologists know a lot about anxiety. work. They told me the fee for seeing a psychologist for one hour. The number of Vietnamese clients I see has increased a lot since I started six years ago. For others it is about the stress of their current life. aged 31. BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA Often we think not only of the shortterm outcome but how these changes can be permanent and affect the trajectory of a person’s life. are not sure what to expect from therapy. relationship problems and other mental health issues. without judgment or criticism. I charge fees that are more in line with what would be paid in western countries. emotionally and in their relationships. Another challenge is that many people from countries where therapy is less common. Often.THE THERAPIST IS PSYCHOTHERAPY FOR ME? Dear Douglas. For some it is looking back at their life to understand how they have become the person they are. like Vietnam. After one session.com of the cost. Do you only work with expats or with Vietnamese patients as well? I have some problems that have been bothering me and I don’t know who to talk to. Research says that the “therapeutic alliance” is a key to the therapeutic process. In the beginning the goals are to fully understand the problems and to clarify what changes the client would like to have. but people from collectivist and traditional cultures also have personal problems and difficult challenges.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel. Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake. Pham Tien Tiep. or delivery from nearby favourites. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. Tel: (04) 3946 1901 therooftop. this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Tay Ho facebook. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. cooked fresh to order. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai. Cheap beers. deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien. but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Ba Dinh. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De. when it comes to design. this alternative. 32 Dien Bien Phu. the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat.vn When Vuvuzela opened up. Hoan Kiem facebook. top-shelf experience. Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 01653 336087 facebook. dog-friendly. Tay Ho.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor. Hoan Kiem. daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. Hoan Kiem. LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho. garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub. RED RIVER TEA ROOM THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An. Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door. To die for. The venue is hip. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho.com With a kitsch. Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi. but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. a foosball table. Tel: 01262 054970 cama-atk. EDEN HANOI OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE End of 264 Au Co. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE from the US with a beer hall. Hai Ba Trung. black ceilings. it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. check their website.com | November 2016 Word | 149 .com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu.com This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel. Tay Ho. ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Tay Ho congcaphe.hanoi Has a downstairs. 56 Ly Thai To. Tel: (04) 3972 8922 vuvuzela. FURBREW CRAFT BEER BAR 8B/52 To Ngoc Van. and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. 83B Ly Thuong Kiet. Hoan Kiem. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa. Pacific Place. Tay Ho facebook. Amiable staff. no smoking and a midnight closing time. Tay Ho facebook. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE 2A Hang Than. this warm. Now. big outdoor parties. then check out wordvietnam. Oh. this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Ba Dinh. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands. as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL 199D Nghi Tam. Tay Ho A trendy. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end.com Located close to the Opera House. A great place for coffee. CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So. Ba Dinh. a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. LinkHanoi. Tay Ho. Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap. indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city.com A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers.com/sidewalkhanoi A bar and grill with an eclectic.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi Open late. Unpretentious. all brewed by the venue.com. pleasant vibes. Tel: 0915 663993 facebook. with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting. tartines and salads. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one.com You like your home-style brews and you have a craving for an IPA. Unicorn offers up a lounge space. comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. mixing the Hooters concept CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE Syrena Tower.com/edengargen When it comes to outdoor parties. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. Hoan Kiem. claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.Hanoi On the Town BARS. It has balconies. Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection. there’s a grunge-style feel to the place. Ba Dinh. hideaway. oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor. when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. it still packs in the drinkers. Tay ho. with a pleasant West Lake-like vibe to match. 27 Nha Tho. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre. 51 Xuan Dieu. excellent breakfasts. Hoan Kiem. the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch.vn A wine bar with a difference. cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and 2A Tran Thanh Tong. Six craft beers from the tap.000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Tay Ho. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE 89 Trieu Viet Vuong. With its LA coffee and office feel. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart. Tel: 01633 166170 facebook. Le Soleil has become a place to be seen. with well over a 1. Tasty. mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Check their Facebook page for details. homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. For a full list of Hanoi locations. Has a pizza joint. especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. this outdoor. Furbrew is your answer. comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.com/RockstoreHanoi Hanoi's home-made. Well worth a visit. Ba Dinh. Tel: 0904 010116 republic. subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group. a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers. Check out their grill fare. anyone looking for some good conversation. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat. Five star prices. Has a creative comfort food menu. wine. bare brick. Notorious for its burgers. Hai Ba Trung. POLITE PUB 24B Tong Dan. Hoan Kiem tadioto. Hoan Kiem. They also do coffee. Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. drinking food and a DJ booth. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI 15/50 Quang Khanh. cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco. a pale ale or a wheat beer that you can’t get anywhere else. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT 284 Nghi Tam. 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu.com/hrc.com With well-poured drinks. TayHo furbrew. Hai Ba Trung. this is a must for a more Vietnamese. 114 Xuan Dieu. this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May. 15 Truc Bach. Sofas. SPY BAR VUVUZELA HOLE IN THE WALL MODERN BEER HALL SIDEWALK HANOI DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE 12A Nguyen Huu Huan. LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.vn The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers. communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe. This late-night bar has been going for years. young Vietnamese crowd. Paolo and Chi. Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. upstairs. bar stools. pool and live football matches.com A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender. but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. Hai Ba Trung. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong. beer or even a bite to eat. knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean. 100A Xuan Dieu. Loaded with booths and a steady. arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside. Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien. and despite its Old Quarter dive status.

Located deep in Ha Dong. started out opening the bia hoi restaurant across the road. the establishment’s owner.com houses that sport solar panels and big garages. the walls are busy with abstract pictures. Vinh. and two years ago he decided to reach for something bigger. It’s difficult to miss the all-seeing illuminated pint glass and block capital lettering advertising the beer club when you turn on to Nguyen Van Loc. TVs and lounges and is one of the most contemporary bars in the area. The four-storey beer club is kitted out with games. The bar only serves beer. ready to wager on — or against — their drinking companions. If the first floor is too busy. staff are ready to bring an icebox full of beer from the . all the best social games can be found here. from outside the building looks quirky. a dart board and a foosball table are surrounded by eager punters. Inside. Downstairs.BAR STOOL I f you fancy going for a beer and a game of billiards. While you’re busy testing your skills on the table. Vinh makes sure that if any new premium quality beer becomes available in-country his bar will stock it. Pub Games In holding with a classic pub atmosphere. A short elevator ride to the third floor takes you to a VIP lounge area with a goodquality pool table. neon Budweiser signs and bottle caps moulded into wooden walls. then head on down to Heyday Beer Club. Heyday is as much a premium watering hole as it is a symbol of the district’s development. then you can head to the second floor that follows the same design. which on a weekend it will be. on the far side of town. speakers that connect to your iPhone and a balcony area. It also sports two large TVs showing the latest football matches. Sitting on a corner overlooking modern 150 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Hanoi’s most populous suburb.

Heyday is a glimpse of what the future holds. Germany. including pizzas. or some bar snacks.000 and VND300.com | November 2016 Word | 151 .000. but as the area continues to develop. Heyday does top-quality food as well. The food is all cooked to the standard that you would expect from an established restaurant.000.000 and comes with a full array of toppings. German beer Stammgast will set you back VND115. A plate of spaghetti Bolognaise is VND85. You can ask at the bar for details on hiring out this room. Belgian dark beer Chimay VND145. beef and duck dishes priced between VND100. Japan and elsewhere. It’s open 9am to 11pm and until midnight on weekends wordvietnam. If you come in a group. Ha Dong. After a splash of Dutch courage. A large ‘special pizza’ costs VND135.000 and red ale Rodenbach Grand Cru VND350. while a Corona Extra is VND70.000. spaghetti and Vietnamese dishes. If you’re feeling more adventurous. As if the beer and games weren’t enough for you. Rose in a Thorn Bush Ha Dong isn’t known as being a hip spot on the weekend calendar. Hanoi.000 and a range of Vietnamese-style chicken. A Tiger or Saigon beer costs VND25.Heyday Beer Club PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN bar.000. sofas are dotted around the room and the red brick walls are interrupted by shelves littered with bottles of wine. its nightlife is becoming more inviting.000. while the same measure of Heineken costs VND350. then you can take advantage of the bulk options. International Beer The selection of beers available is impressive — there are brands from Belgium. The lounge on the third floor is designed with dim lighting. — Billy Gray Heyday is at LK3C1 Nguyen Van Loc.000.000. three litres of Tiger beer cost VND250. just off Tran Phu. you can make your way to the fourth floor to exercise your lungs with karaoke.

There’s a full range of Italian coffee from ristretto. named after the sound of his stolen bicycle’s bells. stools and a narrow balcony on the first floor. a big wooden table to be shared on the ground floor. counting 152 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Inside. it is unthinkable that consumers in the second-largest coffee exporting country in the world have to drink additive-filled coffee. Vienna and Italian to suit any palate. the décor is minimal. Back in 2012. Four years later. from outside Reng Reng Cafe could be mistaken for a private house. Nguyen Duy Bieu started to realise his ambition by selling coffee from a bicycle on the streets of Hanoi with a single promise. Reng Reng Café.000 or under. a worthy Vietnamese version of Vienna coffee where . Located off the military street of Ly Nam De. genuine and plain roasted Arabica coffee.COFFEE CUP M any Vietnamese coffee drinkers are casual about what goes into their daily brew. They come in four degrees of roast (from light to dark): City. Full City. Reng Reng uses the espresso brewing method for all its offerings. My favourite is the Ba Na. lungo and Americano to cappuccino and latte. all priced at VND35. Even its soft-spoken and courteous staff blend in well with such a mellow atmosphere. Mellow Roast Its small size is similar to that of established coffee houses yet with a touch of elegance and without all the smoke and noise. including nau (meaning brown) the Hanoian way of referring to the quintessential Vietnamese drip coffee ca phe sua da. But for one man from Dalat.com investment fund managers and students as regulars. is now among the most lively coffee shops in town. a number of mini coffee tables.

it must be Vienna roast or darker. His parents started planting coffee in 1999 hoping to get rich but gave up without much success. If you’re taking your coffee with sugar. if you want to set new standards in an industry where entrenched bad practices prevail. Reng Reng Café was set up for proper coffee enjoyment rather than as a hang-out. Bieu is very picky about how coffee should be enjoyed. By raising the bar with his quality Arabica beans. And he aims to do so in other Vietnamese cities as well.com | November 2016 Word | 153 . — Tran Cam Thu Reng Reng is at 17 Ngo 12 Ly Nam De. and how customers should behave in his shop. Only after Bieu became known in Hanoi and opened his shop did they go back to growing coffee. If you want to smoke. Dalat. Bieu hopes to promote responsible consumption which in turn will help push farming practices more towards sustainability. his younger brother also joined the team as a roaster. With such a lofty goal. This time. Ba Dinh. It lies in one of the few areas in Vietnam blessed with the right elevation and weather to produce these high-value but finicky beans. Elevated The beans served at Reng Reng are sourced from Bieu’s family Arabica plantation in Lam Ha. there’s nothing wrong in being choosy. I often take Ba Na with an extra shot of espresso to counteract its sweetness and creaminess. it is with a clear vision of organic farming that the family approach the coffee trade. Thus.Reng Reng PHOTOS BY LEAH ROLANDO fresh milk is substituted with condensed milk and Anchor cream is added as-is without being whipped. Hanoi wordvietnam. there is no Wi-Fi and the popular sport of Facebook check-in is discouraged. Still. please go outside.

com/YoloCoffeeShops Boasting an abundance of communal seating.com/thehanoisocialclub A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular. cereals and bagels. Serves as community centre. Hoan Kiem. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van. Perfect for work. cakes.vn With numerous locations around town. art and music. non-processed foods. Great cuisine. 3 Ha. a bite to eat and coffee. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right.com. Tay Ho. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3938 2117 facebook. this small yet homely. events and attractive décor. too: breakfasts.vn/spacebar A pleasant. and has an excellent top-floor terrace. Hoan Kiem. contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Focusing on comfort food done well. 1.com A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. endearing and old-fashioned. Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection. Starting in Laos in 1996. Unpretentious. 247 Au Co. Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ 43 Yen Phu. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Tay Ho. AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat. slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. YOLO FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy. the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110. SAINT HONORE ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE CAFE / BOULANGERIE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 5 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3936 3228. fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien. too. three-floored space is simplicity at its finest.com This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. MAISON DE TET DÉCOR LIFESTYLE CAFE 36 Tu Hoa. Tel: (04) 3823 9722 tet-lifestyle-collection. ice cream. KAFEVILLE COFFEE SPECIALIST & CAFE 22 Nguyen TrungTruc. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state. a continuous flow of exhibitions. with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas. as witnessed by the size of the clientele. They also offer wine pairings. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An. Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious. vintage-styled cafe stands on its own. the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor. Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee. a salad bar and an a la carte menu. MOC CAFE CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho. Tay Ho.com Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint. Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. Vietnamese environment. EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An. Tel: 0906 221030 154 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. too. rustic style furnishings and décor. Tay Ho. Dang Thai. talks. Hoan Kiem. The food is all there. Tel: (04) 6292 1044 chopsvietnam. that you’re sitting in a European café.com A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living. airy atmosphere. Ba Dinh. Also boasts and excellent selection of teas. Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva. this on-the-edge of the Old Quarter cafe is a dream. Simple and unpretentious. it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120. Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho. and this one’s a bit of a winner. Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running. Using 100 percent natural ingredients. Tay Ho.com Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu.vn CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De. comfortable seating arrangements. Also run occasional farmers’ markets. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa. home-grown cafes in Vietnam. Middle-Eastern twist. Hai Ba Trung.Hanoi On the Town d’Alice and its quirky interior. Tay Ho. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. and it’s a popular one. whitewashed. this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. mindful thinking. and a focus on healthy. the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. Hoan Kiem. western and pan-Asian mains. the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba. Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi. 1 Trang Tien. wine or freshly squeezed juice. TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee. Open 24 hours. This is comfort food at its finest. great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. Opera House. When it comes to good old caffeine. Hai Ba Trung. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25. Wifi. this hole-inthe-wall. breakfasts and western-style cafe fare. Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion. Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard.com MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich. Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy. Tay Ho. waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose. Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil. period tiles. experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. beer. for a second. Nghi Tam Village. it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. juices. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock. Served up with locally brewed craft beer. soups. bare-brick walls. no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER 4 Quang An. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai.hanoi A contemporary. 43 To Ngoc Van. COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired. including juice and coffee or tea. Hoan Kiem. this 1936-established. HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ If you like your coffee brewed in different styles and made with hard-to-find blends. Fun. Tay Ho. 47A Ly Quoc Su. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. Blackboards. all scoffed down in a traditional.com/cousins. unpretentious and unashamedly quirky. hip and yet surprisingly spacious. SPACEBAR COWORKING CAFE Nha 15. delivery is also available. cottage pies and pan-Asian fare.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. 99 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup. Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3824 7280. Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. muffins. Tel: 01238 670098 facebook. all for a set price. this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Hoan Kiem. Tiny.com On-site coffee roasting. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town. Hoan Kiem. Italian coffee.com. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE 2nd Floor. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong. ground floor cafe with an outdoor terrace that sits below offices and a co-working space. tapas. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa. intimate and simple. Tel: (04) 3747 3388.000. Ba Dinh facebook. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno. the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters.vn With venues in Saigon and Bangkok. TayHo clickspace. aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe. Tay Ho. especially late at night. Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings. Serves up coffee. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro. food. Quiet. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts. ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook. as well as wine.com AMATO TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE 1A Trang Tien. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu. salads. Open every day for lunch and dinner. funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances. Hanoi Towers. the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade .000 and other Italian delicacies. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. 76 To Ngoc Van. 32C Cao Ba Quat.

LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN 36-38 Xuan Dieu. with of course. Hoan Kiem. May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus. Has a bar area downstairs 10 Nam Ngu. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MEDITERRANEO MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE PAN-ITALIAN AMERICAN GRILL 23 Nha Tho. Hoan Kiem.com | November 2016 Word | 155 . soups and cheeses.meats off the grill. Tel: (04) 3266 8968 linguinifini. you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Tel: (04) 3926 4200. Hoan Kiem. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. scallops. pastas. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu. Koto burgers. Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup. a focus on steak. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala. Dong Da. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available. May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. 19-21 Hai Ba Trung. home-made pasta. cozy restaurant near the cathedral The American Club.com. Has three floors all with different vibes.com/en/hanoi With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla. Excellent Asian and Western cuisine set in a contemporary restaurant with trendy décor and a chilled out ambiance. CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu. the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. J. FOOD EXCHANGE INTERNATIONAL BUFFET RESTAURANT 5 Duy Tan. Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi. poutine and burgers. Known for its good. and predominantly white walls. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food. Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel. Tel: (04) 3576 6666 accorhotels. this wonderful restaurant is your typical.A. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 5 Bui Thi Xuan. Hoan Kiem.com On entering La Badiane. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board. Tel: (04) 3828 7207 cafe-des-arts. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup. this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. salads and fish. 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor).000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.com wordvietnam. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music. cold cut boards. Best known for their Scotch egg. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. Clever changing imagery on the walls. Try out their catfish spring rolls. lobster. Hai Ba Trung. Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. as well as full courses such as veal. soups.A. Ba Dinh. 25 Bat Su. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. 575 Kim Ma. contemporary ambience. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar. this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken. 1 Thanh Nien. Tel: (04) 3995 0950 lasalsa-hanoi. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes.com Recently refurbished. dopiaza. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. too. as are some damn fine pizzas. Sleek modern décor. low. Wrap it yourself nem. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre. Tel: (04) 3825 1286 J. reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal.F. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.au The restaurant arm of Koto. the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance.com/frenchgrill With unique decor. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So. pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions.F.A.com A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. 6B Lang Ha. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE LA BADIANE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 23J Hai Ba Trung. Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers. Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn. chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.com Situated in an art-deco villa. Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. Then. Cau Giay. Tapas are available.com A leafy. Hoan Kiem. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes. The beverages are not the cheapest. the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. subtle lighting. 8 Do Duc Duc. an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Hoan Kiem.A. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. Set inside a large. Reservations recommended. Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running. FRENCH GRILL greentangerinehanoi. foie gras. MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH 11 Hang Hanh. Hoan Kiem. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend. Tay Ho. LUNA D’AUTUNNO serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza.vn This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions.com/9813 Food Exchange offers up a well-priced international buffet for breakfast. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. Tel: (04) 3716 2959 foodshop45. 15 Ngo Quyen.com Lakeside location and low bamboo seating. Me Tri. the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. and booth-like seating on the upper floors. Tel: (04) 3942 4509 labadiane-hanoi. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May. chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Hoan Kiem. tasty food and large portions. Tay Ho.vn Elegant and luxurious. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna. Tel: (04) 3939 2470 mooseandroo. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An.com A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint. TOP-END GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi. spinach and ricotta ravioli. Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong. but this is made up for by service and ambiance. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees. surrounded by leaf plants. korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Tel: (04) 3823 7338 lunadautunno. an extensive wine list and slick service. bun bo Nam bo. blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach. the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service. thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas. high quality cuisine. lunch and dinner with a live cooking station. which range from VND100. comfortable and has a rooftop terrace. Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. It’s cushioned. Ba Dinh. as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Tel: (04) 3926 0639. fish and chips. and duck with currant sauce. Tu Liem. dim sum menus and set menus. Ba Dinh. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. Japanese working person’s rice eatery.

one of the vegetarian dishes on the menu. Dang Thai Mai. paintings and wooden furniture. tofu and eggplant with other minced vegetables and cinnamon for a distinctive taste. The interior is a pleasant place to while away the hours. the menu offers quintessential Hanoian cuisine alongside Vietnamese dishes from other regions. and there is always someone keeping an eye on the tables. however.000).TOP EATS O n a quiet Hanoian street in an unassuming green restaurant. The soft. 156 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. and offers quality coffee beans to be purchased in various blends for use at home. And for vegetarians. the roasted chicken . Tay Ho). modest atmosphere is created by soft tones. as May Taste now features a pour-over coffee bar. a homely. At May Taste (18C. Now in its third year of operation. this is a place where the meatless options are more than a box-ticking afterthought. Inside. For the carnivores. Giang Nguyen surveys her little diner from behind the serving hatch. it titillates the eyes and tongue in equal measure. A well laid-out dish of stuffed tomatoes and eggplant. The single exterior table is a good place to sip a coffee and watch the world whiz past. A recent partnership with the Bangkokbased Simple Coffee Company has added something extra special for the coffee connoisseurs. Something for Everyone First up is the secret garden of eggplants (VND120. this rarely happens. She is the type of restaurant owner who loses sleep if a customer is less than satisfied.com Feels Like Home The customer service at May Taste is superb. softly spoken staff smile and nod as they take an order. but far enough away as to not feel overbearing. gently spiced texture combines mushrooms.

In May Taste. leaving everyone else to enjoy this famous fish dish. Giang and her team are always ready to fulfil customer requests. consisting of tender chicken encased in crispy skin.000) is a flavoursome bubbling broth. turmeric. savoury sauce made from red wine and coconut cream. and all feedback is taken to heart with a grateful smile.000) is a simple and satisfying meal. which is available in five varieties. with a rich. The mushroom hotpot for one (VND120. A Little Extra Goes a Long Way May Taste have revived the set menu May Taste utilises the set menu concept. Whether you want more or less of a specific ingredient. Although delivery is available. Hanoi wordvietnam.000) takes the traditional recipe and gives it a twist. — Edward Dalton May Taste is located at 18C Dang Thai Mai. served on a neat wooden block with a substantial pile of fresh vegetables. nuoc mam and galangal root into a substantial ready-to-eat portion. The result may have purists up in arms. this would deprive you of an enjoyable experience which proves that smart service and bright smiles really do go a long way.com | November 2016 Word | 157 . so every order gets a free bowl of vegetarian soup to start and a piece of fruit to finish. packing dill. just right for when autumn starts flirting with winter.May Taste PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA with May sauce (VND100. Tay Ho. the cha ca Hanoi (VND145. May Taste is the only restaurant I’ve found in Hanoi which serves hotpot for one person. The best aspect of this little restaurant is the personalised service. while others even include a free lemon juice. tofu and mixed mushrooms. or something cooked in a different way than the menu offers. Most dishes on the menu also include a salad bowl and portion of rice.

pertussis. For more info on FMP visit vietnammedicalpractice. bronchiolitis or pneumonia. a prolonged cough. it’s one of the most misdiagnosed conditions. Many parents don’t know why they give the medication.com from chronic stuffy or runny nose. breathing difficulties or treatment with inhalations or steroids in the past If your child has any of these factors and he or she is suffering from a prolonged cough — asthma may be the cause. something is wrong with your lungs. So if you or your husband/wife are smokers — you are going to see your paediatrician quite often. throat infections. sinuses. Viral infections do not respond to antibiotics but unfortunately. Children who live near busy roads have a higher risk of developing asthma and other respiratory disorders — A child born via C-section has a 37% higher risk of developing asthma and allergies — If the child had a history of wheezing. chronic cough and a higher risk for asthma. The cause is not clear.MEDICAL BUFF COUGH MEDICATIONS I ’m often amazed by the lack of knowledge of parents about the medications they give their babies. Many parents (and doctors) think that asthma always comes with wheezing or breathing difficulties. the most common symptom of asthma is just a cough. Coughing is one of the most common reasons for doctors’ visits. throat. Jonathan Halevy is a senior paediatrician at the Family Medical Practice (FMP) in Ho Chi Minh City. causing cold or flu symptoms. eczema or asthma — If a member of family is a smoker. or even bother remembering the medication’s name. and when you listen to the child’s lungs they may be BY DR.g. chronic sinusitis. allergic rhinitis) — If there is a family history of allergies. 4) Smoking Children of smoking parents suffer much more from respiratory problems. bronchiolitis. More than 10% of children suffer from asthma and still. Living near a busy highway or road will also take its toll on yours and your children’s lungs. allergies and enlarged adenoids and tonsils. exercise or even laughing — If the child has other atopic conditions (atopic dermatitis. cough suppressants) When do we need to suspect asthma? — If the child often suffers from prolonged coughs — If the child is repeatedly diagnosed with pneumonia or bronchitis — Coughs that tend to get worse at night-time are typical of asthma. Even if a parent smokes outside. and usually the cough gradually improves with time. pneumonia) and the most common of them are viral infections. Construction sites are everywhere and if you happen to live next to one. what it’s good for. — Coughs that are triggered by running. Here is something doctors and pharmacists won’t tell you. infections and asthma than children of non-smoking parents.) 2) Post-Viral Syndrome Some children might continue coughing for several weeks even after the viral infection has resolved. bronchitis. JONATHAN HALEVY clear.com . 3) Environmental Factors Air pollution is one of the most common causes of chronic respiratory problems — children exposed to air pollution will suffer 158 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. It can be mistaken for bronchitis. pneumonia. you and your children are bound to suffer. which make everything worse. Actually. 5) Asthma Asthma is one of the most common causes of cough. and some may even worsen asthma (e. Dr. Asthma does not respond to regular cough or allergy medications. many children with simple colds still receive them. I had quite a few little patients who suffered from persistent asthma that was very difficult to control until the construction near their homes was finally over. the child is still exposed to smoke particles and has a higher risk of developing asthma — If a child lives in a highly polluted environment (like Saigon or Hanoi). Bacterial infections are less common (sinusitis. sometimes it can be difficult to diagnose the cause: 1) Infections The most common cause of cough in children and adults are infections of the respiratory system (nose. And as common as it is. Saigon and Hanoi are among the top most polluted cities in the world and if you live in either city and don’t cough. most cough medications don’t really work.

The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. bamboo tabled. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam. all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. Hoan Kiem. THE KAFE CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu. Renowned for the highly rated. HoanKiem Ramen. this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community. ha cao dumplings and banh my trung. American-style sides. Hoan Kiem.com The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. Hai Ba Trung. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan. 6 Luong Van Can. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.vn Spacious. OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep.vn/en Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can. this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance. fresh-cooked aroma of bread. Tay Ho 23 Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem BANH MI 25 XOI HANG HOM STREETSIDE BANH MI STICKY RICE 25 Hang Ca. Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO 3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM 18 Dang Thai Mai.vn This bakery and Frenchstyle bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. a private chef’s table with a kitchen view. Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll. but not as you know it. luxury and mystery. Hoan Kiem PHO CUON HUNG BEN PHO CUON 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu. Tel: (04) 3747 8337 hanoixua. from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Trang Tien Plaza. Au Co. Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO 48 Hang Dong.com Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japaneseinspired pizzas that break all the rules. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House.vn Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO. Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs. local ingredients. Hoan Kiem. Huge wine lists. Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11. Hoan Kiem. STREETFOOD BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK 20A Hoe Nhai. 1 Trang Tien. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh. Simple living. In a sentence? Curry. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an in-house sommelier. Vietnamese fusion cuisine. casual. oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. 2 Hang Hom. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.com/wannawaffle Waffles. Nghi Tam Village. pies. Hoan Kiem wordvietnam. Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO 67 Hang Dieu.com Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom. a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe. bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Berlinesque setting a stone’s throw from the Opera House. 241 Xuan Thuy. and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. 138 Trieu Viet Vuong. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. and healthy. 67 Duong Thanh. Hue-influenced cuisine. Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes. Lane 1. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other.com/ zenith-cafe A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO 49 Bat Dan. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.com. 47 Ma May. Tel: (04) 3826 9080 facebook. Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA 1 Hang Dieu. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu. Unit 108. Hoan Kiem. on-site smoked meats together with all the typical. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe. Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA 7 Nam Ngu. Hoan Kiem. friendly staff and a loveable owner. stewed pork banh my. Hanoi. all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more. Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. The delivery service is quick and reliable. Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood. Hoan Kiem 44 Hang Hom. Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON PHO TU LUN BANH DA TRON PHO BO BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON 6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. 24 Hai Ba Trung. Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH MIXED GLASS NOODLES 7B Ly Quoc Su. Indo- china Plaza. WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES 27 Dinh Tien Hoang. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore. but not as you know it. Tay Ho 13 Lo Duc. laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN 247Au Co. Cau Giay facebook. Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO 14 Hang Ga. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu.com | November 2016 Word | 159 .000 and everything is there. Add in a beer. But it’s the twist on old world favourites.com. homemade juices.Hanoi On the Town There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent. energetic and beautifully designed. a G and T or a coffee. mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types. dining is both indoors and out.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown. Hai Ba Trung. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B. Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans. quiches. the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch. Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh. Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES 54 Hang Chieu. Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO 10 Ly Quoc Su. a meal will cost you between VND150. Tel: 01208 034444 pizza4ps. and this is the perfect munchie-satisfying joint to keep you going at any time of the day. Hoan Kiem 5 Phu Doan. all served up in an eclectic. this semioutdoor. Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO 57 Quoc Tu Giam. PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT 24 Ly Quoc Su. Set in the American Club. All dishes are made in house.vn Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House.com/panevinoHN Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House. Hoan Kiem. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi. MOTO-SAN UBER NOODLES 4 Ly Dao Thanh.000 and VND300. this unique fine dining restaurant. muffins and cakes. think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo. croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door.

Formulation So why has there been such a rise in the demand for powdered milk? It has been said that the formula companies have been aggressively pushing their formulas onto low-paid doctors who are susceptible to BY LEE SHAYI an extra bonus and to hospitals who could do with a generous anonymous donation. BREASTFEEDING B reast-feeding in public has become one of those controversial debates. but I don’t believe that breast-feeding in public without covering up is natural. no one wants to see you changing your tampon or pad. Blanket Coverage If it’s not ok to pop out your breast in front of strangers. I’m 100% for breast-feeding infants exclusively for at least a year. If you’re able to breastfeed. powdered milk offers a relief from the duties of breast-feeding. with the reach social media has these days. But recent studies in the Asian market have shown a dramatic decrease in rates of breastfeeding.com why is it alright once there is a baby attached? It costs nothing to put a small blanket over your baby and breast and it saves people the discomfort of having to avoid looking in your direction. It also decreases the risk of infant mortality. I believe breasts are natural.com . they are able to walk at an earlier age. which was brought on by the 2008 melanin formula scandal in China where six infants died and 300. So deep is this belief that powdered milk is better for babies than breastfeeding. it’s the same reason we have private cubicles in the bathroom. These companies can work around the legalities of each country as has been seen in the Philippines and Vietnam. it may be the best thing you can do for your child in the early stages of their life. If you have any comments or queries. so why do we have stalls. that stores in Holland started selling only one can of formula per person due to a shortage. It doesn’t hurt that it also helps mothers get rid of that extra baby weight a lot faster. please email me at lee@wordvietnam. We’re all doing the same thing in the bathroom. a mother’s milk has and always will be the best for your baby. and families need both incomes. Very few women can stay at home and exclusively breast-feed for months. why don’t we just have toilets? Because we don’t need to see what you’re doing in there. I believe feeding your baby is natural. Nurses are also able to make a commission on each can of formula they sell. they cannot compete against these tycoons and massive formula brands in court. There is a reason we all wear clothes. causing a limit on the amount of formula one could buy. and boosts the child’s immune system and tolerance to disease and illness. For women and mothers that need to get back to work as soon as possible.000 made seriously ill. Having said all this. while I’m against breast-feeding in public without covering up. Another cause of the decline of breastfeeding is the fact that many women are now breadwinners in their homes as much as their husbands. The benefits of breast milk are endless with regards to your child’s health and nutrition. Research shows that there have been studies made that claim to prove that powdered milk accelerates the growth of a baby. Having a baby attached to a nipple does not make a breast innocent. A recent incident in Claridge’s Hotel in London where a woman was asked to cover up while breast-feeding may have sparked the controversy. talk. This created an increased demand for overseas formula which could not be met. if you’re able to.STARTING A FAMILY POWDERED MILK VS. not in this sexualized world we live in. While there are doctors and hospitals who are against the use of formula so early on after giving birth. Contrary to popular belief. read and are smarter than their peers. 160 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

com | November 2016 Word | 161 . their combined income was US$106 million. and sexism at work and in our schools and the media.A WORLD OF THE PEACEMAKERS PROMISE B y the time you read this month’s column. Ending violence against women and girls is about celebrating and supporting the creativity and agency of activists. such as young women. Download the ‘16 Days of Activism’ tool kit for other ideas and resources. the elderly. Of the 740 women’s organisations surveyed. LGBTQIA and ethnic minority women. Use the hashtag #orangetheworld to demonstrate your commitment to women and girls. Now compare that to World Vision whose income in the same year was US$2. this year is the 25th anniversary of ‘16 Days’. disabled women. or improving health and wellbeing. This cash-starved reality flies in the face of what AWID says should be obvious to all. but I have mixed feelings about this. Talk to your friends. an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth wordvietnam. Educate yourself about not only female genital mutilation and domestic violence.4 billion. It is time to make our peace in the home to peace in the world. family and colleagues about why you’re taking a stand against genderbased violence. There is no room in freedom for misogyny. 10 on International Human Rights Day. Advocating for and grinning about the sexual assault of a woman is criminal. It goes without saying there should be zero need for anti-violence campaigns and certainly after a quarter century of activism. but cyber bullying. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO.000. It’s coordinated each year by the Centre for Women’s Global Leadership and recognised by the United Nations. here’s something to help you out. every speech and every vote that put her there. GOOD BY DANA MCNAIRN What You Can Do You can string orange lights in your yard or on your balcony. Each Nov. Without financial support for global women’s rights there can be no significant change in the lives of women and girls. bigotry and inequality. The campaign’s official colour is orange so ‘Orange the World: Raise Money to End Violence against Women and Girls’ makes for smart and highly visual campaign tactics like lighting up key buildings and landmarks in a show of tangerine-coloured international solidarity. The Association for Women’s Rights in Development (AWID) studied this funding issue around the world and discovered that the median budget for a woman’s organisation was US$20.6 billion. You can provide pro bono services like legal or accounting or design support to women’s organisations working with groups routinely threatened by violence but typically rendered invisible. women’s movements are key drivers defending women’s human rights and gender justice worldwide. The campaign ends Dec. emergency shelters shuttered and outreach activities all but halted. Spreading the Funds Started in 1991. which is the annual kick-off to ‘16 Days of Activism’. This situation also puts certain targets in the Sustainable Development Goals at very real risk of not being achieved such as increasing gender equity and education. Save the Children clocked in at US$1. For those who still can’t wrap their head around that. let alone ending violence. I say that because the virulent sexism of her former opponent — and the nominee chosen by the Republican Party — is repugnant. survivors and communities around the world. The problem is that funding for preventing and ending violence against women and girls is decreasing globally as programme budgets are slashed. This is one of the reasons why this year’s ‘16 Days’ theme is raising money for gender-based violence programmes. Does your workplace have a matching programme for staff fundraising initiatives? Wear orange and tie a ribbon to your motorbike. 25 marks the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women. there will be a new president-elect of the United States. She will have earned every debate.

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com .Ho Chi Minh City Day Tripper: Chua Chan Mountain / Body & Temple / Location. Location. Location / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats A / Top Eats B / A World of Good / Know Your City Photo by Bao Zoan 164 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.

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muffins. 60-62 Le Loi. Q7 breadtalkvietnam. magazines.com A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Q1. Q1. in 2004 they opened in the US. Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham. Perfume. Electronics VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton. 151 Dong Khoi. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try. Food Court HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong. Italian helmets.org Open to all nationalities. Q1. Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien. Accessories. quiches and pies in town. pizza. HARVEST BAKING LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh. Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ANUPA ECO LUXE ORANGE LEATHER & JEWELLERY BUDGET CLOTHING 9 Dong Du. Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse. Q3. the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Q2. 71 Pasteur. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9. Has a good selection of ESL texts. Worth checking out. Clothing. airy atmosphere. Q1.org CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305. Q7. Q1. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. Tran Quy Building.com AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor. Perfume. Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi. Only books written in French are for sale. Q1. Q1.com. M M M CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh. the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an ef- SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor. Q1 papaya-tshirt. Q7. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9. cakes.com BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien. Q1. Le Van Thiem. Binh Thanh. Electronics. 76 Le Lai. NORDCHAM 17th Floor. Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam. Electronics. Perfume. Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics. Vivo City. Tel: (08) 3521 8755. Q5. Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn. pendant scarves and cushion covers. Q1. 152 Bui Vien. Q1 pnc. Clothing. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2. Electronics. Q3. Café. Rental scooters and bikes available.com A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS 39 Dong Du. Clothing. Q1. Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi. 12 Tan Trao. cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city.vn Although there are some English-language texts in this modern. Q1. for the occasional gem. Accessories. Q3. Has an excellent home delivery service. Perfume. Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam. Q1.com AMERICAN BAKERY harvestbaking. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa. 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam. Lifestyle accessories include shoes. Q7. Eximland Building. Accessories. stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.org BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan. Q1. 469 Nguyen Huu Tho.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries. Has eight locations and counting. 2 Cao Thang. An Phu. Q1 touslesjoursbakery.com CHAIN BAKERY 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima. Food Court PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton. Q1. Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery. local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative.com. toys and a range of related products. amchamvietnam. DVDs. 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Q1. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag.abcbakery. croissants. BREAD TALK 40 Nguyen Hue. Online ordering available. Food Court SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. knickknacks.com VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy. this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District.net Monday to Sunday. Café. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. Perfume. cameras.30am to 10pm Cosmetics. Q1. Clothing. Q1. Check the website for details. Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.co Baguettes.com Quality. Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. Accessories. M M M BUSINESS GROUPS BAKERY & CAFE 180 Hai Ba Trung. Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts. Electronics. breads. Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona. fective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. riding gear. Q1. Café. Tel: (08) 3822 3277. Q1. the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Clothing. donuts and brownies. French-styled with an Asian touch. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. Q1. original. Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam. bags. Established in 1996. VOELKER BAKERY 39 Thao Dien. Café. covering for all ages and tastes. Food Court SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi. Food Court ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai. Accessories. Accessories. posters and more. Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm. Perfume.com Exclusive labels. 57 Le Thi Hong. New World Hotel. Food Court .30am to 10pm Cosmetics. Accessories. Perfume. 166 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics.com. Respro face masks. well laid out bookstore. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton. 54-56 Bui Vien.net With a production facility in Thu Duc. Siddharta-style imagery. Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv. Clothing. 76 Le Lai. 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. Q1. Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.com PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh. Q3. Q1. thought. Q1 fahasa. 17/14 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace. Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop. homewares. Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old.HCMC Essentials BAKERIES BOOKSHOPS ABC BAKERY FAHASA BAKERY & CAFÉ VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 223 Pham Ngu Lao. 2nd Floor Parkson Center. Petroland Tower. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Q1.com BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien. Electronics.org M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. Tel: (08) 3824 3562. Q1 phamngulao. 59 Tran Hung Dao. Q1. Electronics. 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam. Q1. Café.vn TOUS LES JOURS PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 2A Le Duan.vn U. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor. elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Café. Q1. Q2. 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear. Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn. books. Clothing. 35-45 Le Thanh Ton. corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan.com The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon. Lotte Mart.com AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel.com Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery. Unit 601.

HCMC. cultural art events and monthly special activities. Dr. breast reconstruction after breast cancer surgery. Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9. EM EM SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi. this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. 4th Floor. pottery painting classes. Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 Bringing international healthcare standards to Vietnam since 2003 wordvietnam. Having served at FV Hospital and performed a wide range of successful cases in Vietnam.3. Alain Michel.jp The Overland Club organises pottery classes.com | November 2016 Word | 167 . Q1.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor.December 03. forming abdominal wall.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines. Cerruti 1881.com NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi.jal. Dr. liposuction in the abdomen and thigh. so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. will offer consultation and make your dreams come true at FV Plastic Surgery and Cosmetology. Saigon Centre.com HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway. Thao Dien. Nina Ricci. 65 Le Loi. liposuction in the abdomen.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific. Also do event management services.30pm FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien. Q2. ALAIN MICHEL A sexy bosom. With over 20 years of experience as the former Head of Surgery at Lyon Medical School in France. facial rejuvenation.com THE FURNITURE HOUSE Joint Commission International Gold Seal of Approval® 2nd floor. Ungaro and more. Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS CRAFTS & FURNITURE 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke. Q1. Alain Michel November 16 . Accessories are found on the level above. Alain Michel is recognised for his “golden hands” in performing thousands of cosmetic surgery cases. Alain Michel deeply understands Vietnamese patients’ desires for improving their beauty. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets. The threehour lesson. nose lift with cartilage graft.com TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines. Q2. Working schedule of Dr. slim waist. VietnameseJapanese cooking classes. Q1. 30A Nguyen Huu Canh.org ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. surgical facelift. such as the Soba Festival. Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com PLASTIC SURGERY AND COSMETOLOGY IMPROVE YOUR BEAUTY WITH FRENCH PLASTIC SURGERY SPECIALIST DR.vn CHI LAI 42 Nguyen Dang Giai. Tel: (08) 3821 6115 nhaxinh. Q2. Q1. while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor. Binh Thanh. Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass. 26 Ly Tu Trong. sofas and curtains. Dist. Dr. Q2. Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub. a French plastic surgery specialist.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair. M M M COOKING CLASSES AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts. 7 HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy.from international brands like Swarovski. All products are samples. To make an appointment: (08) 5411 3366 REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.com M M M LAO AIRLINES laoairlines. the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.com OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45. Tel: (08) 3840 3946 atc-craft. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.com This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. Q1. Tel: (08) 3932 6455. Q1. conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef. 2016 During this period. 68 Le Loi. breast implant. HCMC. Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm MEKONG QUILTS AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. V building . Christian Lacroix. shelves and kitchen cabinets.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices.6 Nguyen Luong Bang.com. includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations. exquisite nose or fresh skin… are no longer dreams out of hands. the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets. Q1. His performance includes breast augmentation. Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco. Q3. Q1.com. nose lift….com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com AIR FRANCE airfrance. Dist.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar. using the latest and safest techniques to minimise surgical pain and scarring. FV Plastic Surgery and Cosmetology will offer special promotions. with cost from VND5 million to VND20 VND million for endoscopic breast augmentation.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn. Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping.

there are temples or pagodas. The stone staircase leading to the top is steep and busy with shops. aka Gia Lao.DAY TRIPPER Vu Ha Kim Vy makes a trip to the second highest mountain in southeastern Vietnam A friend told me that Chua Chan Mountain. Shops and the Cableway In Vietnam. used to be a volcano. there are also karaoke rooms and hostels. yet. Lam Son and Linh Son — and several smaller temples. Just in case. If you have ever taken a bus from Saigon to Phan Thiet. you would have seen or passed by it before as it lies quite close to the road. Chua Chan Mountain is about 110 km away from Saigon and is 837 metres high. They sell not only incense and candles. Chua Chan is actually like a small mountain village. there was no information about that on the internet. Located in Dong Nai. shoes. Chua Chan has three pagodas — Buu Quang. wherever there’s a mountain. but also food. clothes. It is also the secondhighest peak in the southeastern region of 168 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. It was recognised as a national heritage site in 2012. which is 996 metres high. drinks. Some vendors might interrupt your progress and ask you to buy some incense and candles as they think you come there to offer prayers for your love life or health. souvenirs and other spiritual services including fortune telling cards and palmistry.com Vietnam after Black Virgin Mountain in Tay Ninh. On my visit it didn’t take long for me to realise that two porters and I were the only . Temples.

000 for the ticket to reach the foot of the mountain where you park your bike. told me that most young people prefer trekking and camping overnight on Chua Chan. According to Google.2 metres tall. to whom I gave a lift from the welcome gate to his house located at the foot of the mountain.com | November 2016 Word | 169 . Khoa. For Trekking and Camping Chua Chan becomes more interesting if you have more time and a sense of adventure. Getting There Take either Highway 1A or Highway 51 towards Long Khanh. Chua Chan is not a difficult mountain and there are many ways to reach to the top. Keep following Highway 1A until you get to TL766. You can either follow the electricity poles or continue on the path behind Buu Quang Temple. Take TL766 for about 4km until you see the welcome gate of Chua Chan Mountain. Most visitors prefer to take the cableway to the top then walk down back to the foot of the mountain.000 for adults and VND90. Or simply. “They usually follow the electricity poles.” he said. This cableway is 1km long and has 72 cabins. That’s the easiest way. It was opened in early 2016 with return tickets priced at VND160.000 for children under 1. wordvietnam. you make your own way.Chua Chan Mountain PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY people walking up to the top. Follow the road about 4km and pay VND14.

170 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com .

Thao Dien. Q2. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. vn M M M CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM firstBIKE. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Q. Q1. Q3 jett-cycles. WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Norfolk Mansion. Tel: (08) 3744 6405 thebikeshopvn.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 250 Nguyen Van Huong. Q1.2.vn Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic. 39 Le Duan. Q7. a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. wordvietnam. Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.com. 57A. Canadian.com. Tel: (08) 6282 8822 starlightdental. the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free. ALL-ON-6 implants.com | November 2016 Word | 171 . Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te. Q2. 27 Nguyen Ba Lan. INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2).com The showroom home of Jett Cycles. prosthodontics. Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent. as well as the full selection of accessories.com Specialising in Trek and Surly.com.HCMC Essentials THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang. Q3. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM 384 Tran Phu. Jett.com/thebikeshopvn for more details. Invisalign & orthodontics. Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. Belgian & Vietnamese dentists.net Long–established.com The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2.com. dental implants. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product. Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic. Q1. which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants. Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24. does repairs and rentals. Q3. with the full range of accessories in between. and support proper balance development. modern clinic with French. Q3. HCMC. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. 168 Vo Thi Sau. Q1. Organises regular cycle rides. GT and Aluboo. M M M DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale.com ELITE DENTAL GROUP. Q5.vn elitedental. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience. Tran Quoc Thao. 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong. Check facebook. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. Tel: (08) 3933 3737 info@elitedental. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. Tel: (08) 35 191 777 westcoastinternational. Tel: (08) 5410 3114 xedapcaocap. Orthodontics is also available.

the muscles and connective tissue react and release tension. I find this fact very relevant when it comes to flexibility. Conventional stretching focuses on one muscle group and does not consider the connective tissue. 172 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.BODY & TEMPLE MOVE FREELY: FASCIAL STRETCHING M ost methods in common practice in the fitness industry are outdated. bones and joints. which creates a lot of pain and no or very minimal improvements in flexibility. your muscles respond to protect themselves. This is because when you cause pain with stretching. at his website bodyexpertsystems. the gentle movement stimulates and relaxes at the same time. sometimes pushing through some pain to get that final stretch. which is the functional representation of the common term flexibility. Sadly.com Stretching a muscle that is in spasm only makes that muscle want to grip even more to further protect an imbalance or postural defect. This is not good. using traction to remove restrictions from movement and to stimulate lubrication. There is no pain. whereas the term flexibility typically refers to the elasticity of muscles. Mobility training avoids this pain and allows muscles to react to the movement pattern and range therefore releasing tension and gaining greater range of motion. Fascial Stretching (FS) has been proven to be effective at improving range of motion at joints and therefore allowing people to function better. Spasmodic The important principle when aiming for increased range of motion is that “joints act and muscles react”. Contact him on 0934 782763. As the joint acts through a wide range. The common perception being that if you’re flexible you also have a good range of motion and vice versa. However. as that continual contraction leads to spasm and knotting. nerves or joint capsule. A lot of people are stretching muscles that are actually in spasm. BY PHIL KELLY After exercise. Here are 10 benefits of fascial stretching: 1) Increased range of motion 2) Muscular balance and symmetry 3) Improved performance 4) Reduced pain 5) Reduced risk of injury 6) Improved posture 7) Improved muscle function 8) Improved circulation 9) Decreased compression and impingement in the joints 10) Improved energy The important take-home question is: Are you inflexible or are your muscles in spasm? You need to choose the correct techniques to improve your range of motion and therefore improve your functional movement. people generally run through the usual stretches. Secondly. Mobility refers to how a joint moves (the range of motion). Stimulated FS is a type of stretching that targets not only the muscles.com) . but the fascia (the connective tissue that surrounds muscles). FS also targets the entire joint and joint capsule.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. maybe paying extra attention to their tight muscles. Every type of training should aim to achieve better performance and overall human movement. most people mistake mobility and flexibility as being one and the same. Flexibility training is no exception with most people using stretches and techniques developed in the 1950s. tightening up in a reboundtype effect. Firstly. this type of stretching is not effective and may even be causing more tightness and inflexibility. Conventional stretching is not a great way to improve mobility. becoming more supple. this is incorrect. Instead. not even discomfort. However. It is important to understand that flexibility is a component of mobility but extreme flexibility is not required to perform functional movements. A flexible muscle doesn’t necessarily equate to an increase in range of motion at joints. what if a muscle isn’t inflexible but in spasm or overactive? More often than not due to our immobile and static lives (sitting and single plane movement) muscles go into protective mode having to continually contract to maintain function. It’s funny that we are quick to update our technology but when it comes to updating our exercises and exercise programmes it doesn’t happen. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems.

A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi. Thao Dien. and Japanese-style haircuts. fresh poultries. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods. as well as steam-sauna. the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University.in PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri.shimokawaji@sapporobeer. also distributing brands like San Pellegrino. body and foot care. In addition to their excellent range of wines. Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail. blogspot. Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.vn Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and. M M M CLASSIC FINE FOODS CRICKET HAIRDRESSERS. Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure. treatments at this Japanese spa include facial. Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm. Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon. spices and a wide selection of dairy products. Thao Dien. Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare. Has regular exhibitions. Tel: 0938 889899 James. Q7 Saigon-ultimate. HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung. if you so wish. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels. Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak. Tan Phong. also sells frozen meat and fish.com wordvietnam. they also stock imported beers. Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.vn Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam. imported beers and wines.org San Art is an independent. In operation since 2009. bottled mineral water and spirits. Q2. offers massages lasting from 30 minutes. lectures and publications. Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.fr SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette. Q1. Q1. Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street). Q1.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu. meat. Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail. Street 41.chew@vietnamhockey.co. VEGGY’S GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. paraffin and waxing services. Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet. this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Q1. fruit.com LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.net Specialising in healthcare.com GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue. Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo. Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. Tel: (08) 6294 7059 san-art. Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat. Rougie foie gras.com SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball. astere@hotmail.cashmiri@gmail. SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh. 5B Ton Duc Thang. Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing. and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT. Tel: 0976 469 090 samie. Binh Thanh. Q1. Q7 (across from FV Hospital).com X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Q10. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam. to two-hour hot stone therapy. Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.com SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit.com SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash. Tel: (08) 3744 2565 meatworksasia. Q2. Q1 dogmacollection.com GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton. com SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy. organic fruit and vegetables. artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon.com ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world.co.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam.HCMC Essentials MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang. 702 Nguyen Van Linh. Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh. 17.com Modern and bright downtown spa.com FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans. 15/5 Le Thanh Ton. the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. dental services and chiropractic medicine. pre-marinated. SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A. Q1. PHUONG HA GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi. HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh. Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij. Sells prints of the originals and related products.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef.info SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball.com Focusing on the retail trade. Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions. Q3. M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR many a supermarket in this country to shame. Q2. 702 Nguyen Van Linh. Tel: (08) 3822 9332. Q2. herbs. Q2.com OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks. MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2. 41A Thao Dien.com | November 2016 Word | 173 . Q1. vegetables.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven. Q1. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo. Q2. Q1. Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh. live seafood and vegetables.com VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani.amit@yahoo. Q1. THE WAREHOUSE SPORTS WINE SHOP ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.com SQUASH The Landmark. GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham. Q1.com UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali. the same beef served up at El Gaucho. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages.com SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien. Q1. ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill.com RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao. Galbani cheese.

The country that was once considered too challenging. Vietnam’s population has grown from 66 million in 174 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. it will be entering a demographic golden age. demographics and a more foreign-friendly investment environment will keep the nation holding on to the shopping basket for the time being. The answer? People and policy. I would need to visit one of what I called the original three “dragon ladies” on Ham Nghi. I was lured by the attraction that alas. Over the next two decades. immature and lacking appropriate investment policies to attract foreign retailers is no more the poor relation. the nation of Asia’s youngest shoppers? Put simply. Rising disposable incomes are also bringing in big fashion brands such as Gap. Email your questions to greg.com 1990. foreign retailers are expanding their retail chains. from Singaporean investors.com . the lifting the US trade embargo. Despite many of them making losses. Mango. the South Koreans through Lotte and EMart. we have witnessed Vietnam liberalize its economy. From new retailers to new malls to house those retailers. Favourites When I first arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. Since the 1980s. Vietnam has been on a path to increased development and improved globalization. From the launch of doi moi (renovation). it’s shop till you drop. Topshop and now Zara. Time will tell if this young nation of shoppers will weather the shop-tillyou-drop storm –but at least on paper. That includes the Thais through Central Group. LOCATION THE RETAIL BOOM BY GREG OHAN Saigon Centre is one of the latest retail developments to get a makeover A question I get asked by investors both local and foreign is why multinational retailers are more than ever piling into what some observers are (for better or for worse) referring to as the “next China”. a leading global real estate services firm. if I was looking for a jar of Nutella or even a box of Cornflakes. So what does this all mean for Vietnam. and new brands originating from Vietnam’s neighbours are diving into Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi’s retail property markets.jll.LOCATION. choice and more of it. Greg Ohan is the Vietnam director of JLL. and I would argue that it is for the better rather than worse. LOCATION. no McDonalds. topped with the fastest-growing middle income and affluent class in Southeast Asia. Twenty-five per cent of the population will be aged between 10 and 24. But in a short time things have changed. the median age will be around 30. making it the third most-populous country in Southeast Asia after Indonesia and the Philippines. joining the World Trade Organization (WTO) and the 2015 Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP). The demand for retail property in prime locations is higher than ever. Populace On the numbers alone. But things have changed. Starbucks or even a Zara. Saigon Centre. and the Japanese through Aeon Mall and Takashimaya plus Ho Chi Minh City’s latest shopping experience.com or visit joneslanglasalle. Arriving in Vietnam in 2010.ohan@ap. to 91 million in 2016. here was a country with only a handful of department stores.

Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa. Plus sports medicine. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Dien Q2. cosmetic treatments. INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 34 Le Duan Street.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330. Q2. FMP’s main specialties include family medicine. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Q1.vn A lovely little place with nail services. and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke. As the only health care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations. neck and knee pain. 44 Nguyen Hue. especially maternity care.com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung. Of course. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL Binh Duong Boulevard.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. they have to look fabulous.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only. Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere. Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 americaneyecentervn. Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.acc. providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas. 105 Ton Dat Tien. French. international health care providers in Vietnam. Tel: 0906 684969 Well-known traditional Chinese medicine clinic in Phu My Hung specialising in acupuncture. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. enjoy a massage. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang. shampoo head massages. Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign. Q1. skin care and surgical consultations. Q7. providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. gynecology. Thuan An District. giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. 2 Hai Trieu. this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook. HAIR BAR SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh. physiotherapy. hairwashing to nails. Q1.com Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. privately-owned. Bitexco Financial Tower. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor. Experienced American. Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite. sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. Q1. Q1. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children.com. Also M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung. glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.vn ACC provides effective chiropractic.com/ hairbarvn. this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Q3.includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath. Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068 hanhphuchospital. Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic. Q1.com | November 2016 Word | 175 . Established in Ho Chi Minh City for over a decade. Cheap prices. MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep. with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors.000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. too. Q1. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia. Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital. Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital. pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests. Q1. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy. Crescent Plaza. too. paediatrics and acupuncture. enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Q7. SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop. offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. psychotherapy.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology. Q1 HAPPINESS ORIENTAL MEDICINE ACUPUNCTURE CLINIC ACUPUNCTURE 432 Pham Thai Buong. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan. ophthalmology. Tel: (08) 3825 8799 merci-space. Open daily from 10am to 9pm. meet your friends. Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa. Q1. Saigon South Parkway. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor. Tel: (08) 3825 8678 soispa. 95 Thao wordvietnam.

IF CONSULTING IBC Building. Tel: 1800 599 998 libertyinsurance. Q2. Tel: (08) 3744 6960. 190 Nguyen Van Huong.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics. inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual. KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai. clarinet and saxophone. Q1. tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. in the early years. hip-hop. salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. to align with their regional sister companies. cardiology. Q3. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance. Q2. offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP). APSC Compound.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano.com South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary).com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai. respectful collaboration with their teachers.HCMC Essentials INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh. international marine. Their reputation for transparent. basketball. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong. honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. 36 Thao Dien. Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato. Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38. ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor. Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinasia. Q2.com SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao. digestive diseases. Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa. Kumho Asiana Plaza. Lane 42. Q2. Q2. home insurance and much more. Q2. allowing them a head start in life. diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care.com. Tel: (08) 3519 2727. An Phu.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien. Le Van Thinh. Somerset Vista. Q1.com Inspected and approved by the British Government. Contact them now for a free quote.com. 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway). AQA. TAE KWON DO BP Compound. academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling. Q1. Q1. as well as speciality cover for student travel. family or company needs. Q2. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong.com Skype: jp. health insurance. 39 Le Duan. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. Thao Dien Campus.vn MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu. medevac. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse. An Phu. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.com INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu. ABCIS is accredited by CIE. health. 81-83-85 Ham Nghi.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team.global A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. travel insurance. ballet. Thu Thiem Campus. from Blue Cross Vietnam. Saigon 176 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. women’s health and internal medicine. funk. Q1.com. Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Q1.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano. travel.com . This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning. Specialist care is available in many fields.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. M M M M M M INSURANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower.edu. extreme athletics and adventure. Q2. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858 noahjamesinsurance. belly dancing. It is a play-based. Q2. Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz. Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail. inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close.com International coaches provide training in soccer. Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong.com PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy. Q2. Q2. the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn. an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed. 720K Thao Dien. TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu. STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh. Q2. Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. The clinic utilises the latest therapies. Q3. Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79 sianclinic. BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC cently changed names. Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.vn International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance. BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam. Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.vn Pacific Cross Vietnam re- ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary). Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36 theabcis.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2. Q2. An Phu. Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 pacificcross. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. Q2. 628C Hanoi Highway. 1A Me Linh Square. 3rd Floor. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh.edu. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap. wordvietnam. Q2. featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center.vn Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC). SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. Street Nr. 27/3 Ha Huy Tap. emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool. Q7. Talented. Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University. IB and AP) from elementary to high-school.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. and small class sizes. Tel: 0903 952223 tas.edu. science labs and an all-weather pitch.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings. Q2. Q2. 26. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 eishcmc. music and drama rooms. Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance. Tel: (08) 3744 6076. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT. Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis. and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund. Q7. TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings.500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English. Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon. A secondary school is opening in August 2017. Q7. a 350-seat professional theatre. Q2.CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23. as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017.com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative. Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. Q2.vn Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.edu. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound. Q2. Binh Thanh. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12. Q2.S. UK qualified teachers and a maximum of 16 students per class means learners receive the individual attention they deserve. Tel: (08) 3898 9816. 10. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan.edu.vn ISHCMC — American Academy is a U. Q7. highquality learning resources. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning. Q2.edu. IT labs.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong. Tel: (08) 3898 9100 aavn. MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy. gymnasium. swimming pool. 5. ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC .American Academy.com The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. With 100% English language immersion.com | November 2016 Word | 177 . certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan. 15 Tran Ngoc Dien. A combination of experienced. Known for unique facilities.edu. Has a newly built campus. Thanh My Loi. Q2. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. mini-pool. Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99 issp. Q7.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.edu. Early university credits. Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc. a library containing over 13. Phu My Hung.edu. Vietnam. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo. Q2.vn Established in 2006. Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori. play-areas. experienced staff. Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis. Saigon Star is a British School and one of only four schools in Vietnam to adopt the International Primary Curriculum (IPC). inquiring and caring for others. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre.com HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. Thao Dien. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.S. a 1:1 University Counseling Program. playful learning environment for children ages two to six.

Q1.com . Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords. we can move your property to and from any location.3.com. Call for details and prices. You’ll get many. from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks. Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs.com SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien. Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL. Thao Dien. TATTOO SAIGON 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor. Binh Trung Tay. especially in District 2. Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world.com The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Ree Tower. Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com A global leader in international removals and relocations. Also does accessories. Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com SAIGON INK 26 Tran Hung Dao.com Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves. over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273 nga. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO. Thien Son Building. Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b. District 4. with services including door-to-door moving.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries. com for info. Suite 701.28 Ham Nghi. Also a good site for expat jobseekers. Quarter 3.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap. Pricing depends on size and style. SERVICED APARTMENTS TATTOO ARTISTS DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No. comfort and class.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C. Q1. Q4. Q2. portraiture. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Tel: 0903 643446 chiscafe. Q2. Thien Son Building. black and grey.net SPIRIT TATTOO 206B Le Van Sy. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur. and office. Q1. western traditional. Q1. District 1. Q3. Q2.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares. M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao. 2nd Floor. Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon. Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam. Ward 12. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen. Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.com SAIGON BODY ART 135 Cong Quynh. Rents by the day or by the month.com/ spirittatts Respected tattoo and body-piercing studio specialising in traditional Japanese. Yamaha Nouvos. dot work and geometric. Miss Ao Dai Building. Tel: 0903 013690 saigonscootercentre. sales.com Just relocated to its new home in District 2. Also does visa extensions. a balcony. Tel: (08) 6675 6956 exileinkvietnam. Q3. Tel: (08) 3742 5678 the-ascott. local.natalie@gmail.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location. town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. vieclambank. RECRUITMENT & HR RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su. With tattoos becoming increasingly popular.A. neo-traditional. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.com Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong. Enquiries via their website are welcome. separate work and living areas. EXILE INK 608 57 Xuan Thuy. Call or check the website for details. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE M M M RELOCATION AGENTS M M M AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor. Lafayette De Saigon.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. In Vietnam. pet transportation. constructions and interior decoration. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. with 130 offices globally.com G. Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco. Thao Dien. elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings. Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam. cultural training. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Q2.com. Tel: 0938 580800 thenesthousing. SYM Attilas and Excels. Website is in English. Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental. Q4. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong. Established in Vietnam in 2011. Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence. HCMC. domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. 9 Doan Van Bo. IT.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. HCMC. engineering & technical.vn Expert in providing rental properties. Thao Dien.com. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments. Empire Tower. Q1. M M M ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor. relocation services including home search. marketing & events. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. local and office moves and pet relocations. Q1.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh.HCMC Essentials M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien. Luvias. Supports professional services and aftersales. 26 .com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. Q2.net Specialists in international. sauna and steam room. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan. realism. Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.com saigonbikerentals. 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Saigon Port Building.com SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du. RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS 77a Hanoi Highway. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Santa Fe offers local and international moving. as well as two on-site restaurants. as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. Q2.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Tel: 01204 738939 (Fiona) facebook. French and Spanish.com.104-BTT. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. Phu Nhuan. Q1. 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. LTD. Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion. 180 Pasteur. Q1. orientation. a gym. immigration services and records management. Classicos.com VIETNAMWORKS. Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal. modern amenities. Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 asiantigers-mobility. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu. housing and school searches. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool.. 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds. 8A Phung Khac Khoan.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2. orientated towards expats. Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse. Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien. Q1. en-suite bathrooms. quality imported helmets and bike rentals. Q1 saigontattoo. 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan. Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke. Allied also provides tailored relocation services. Q2. JVK is a leader in the field. Floor 9. Q3.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments. Phu Nhuan.

Tel: (08) 5412 2222. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. chains such as CGV. Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com 230 Nguyen Trai. water. Tel: (08) 2222 0388 HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5.vn CGV CINEMAS Level 5. 628C Hanoi Highway. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks. 88 Dong Khoi.com This sports centre in An Phu. M M M SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista. martial arts and spinning. IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung. Caravelle hotel.com/vertical. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. Q1.com for info. Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash. Lotte Mart. Has a number of climbing sections. 60A Truong Son. M M M SPORTS GARMENTS SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3. VND150. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you. boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. Thao Dien Mall. 34 Le Duan. Tel: (08) 3519 3000. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan. Level 7. GYM. Pay for classes. Tel: (08) 6297 1981. the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite.vn wordvietnam. Bus out to the county with a walk. Tel: (08) 3822 8899. Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao. 91 Nguyen Huu Canh. SQUASH GALAXY CINEMA galaxycine. snacks and freeflow beer after the run. Q1. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers. Q1. 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies. They come with separate living and dining areas. Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf. digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.vn Offers the very highest levels of compassionate. Q2. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes. Q7. Phu My Hung.000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million). Tel: 0966 920612 facebook. Q1. SC VivoCity. schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem. Q2. Level 2. Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. BODY AND MIND BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi. 5B Ton Duc Thang. 176 thelandmarkvietnam. started by fitness guru Cyril. Group classes include power yoga. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food. Email chiara@laholista. as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature. (08) 6260 3980 animaldoctors.academy. Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies. M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van. Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.000 for locals and VND220. Has a small but consistent membership. An Phu. Binh Thanh. Level 10.com | November 2016 Word | 179 . NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM Truc Duong. Q1.vn SHERATON FITNESS THE LANDMARK CLUB lottecinemavn. Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor. facilities include a fully–equipped gym room. their family and friends. Q5.vn LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor. CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations. Thao Dien. Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. No membership fees. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. body and mind. a place to climb. Includes yoga. Q2. Bus. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself. M M M cgv. Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com Somerset Chancellor Court. Tan Binh. runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150.gov. Tel: (08) 3775 0555. CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai. Nguyen Van Linh. Binh Thanh. smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts. Tel: (08) 3822 9197. Q12. Diamond Plaza. Crescent Mall. CT Plaza. 12 Quoc Huong. Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman. Tel: (08) 3719 9588 score-tech. is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.vn A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before. 469 Nguyen Huu Tho. intermediate and advanced levels. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Q2.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary.000 for expats. Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du. The Landmark. Q1. a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. 126 Hung Vuong. circuit training. competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. Q2. Hung Vuong Plaza. VETERINARY CLINICS ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien. POOL. Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.with five–star facilities and service. Q2. usually 4km and a run around 8km. Level 5. Q7. Upholding international standards. composition or a 6-hour survival crash course. as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves.com Sunday 2pm sharp. Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments. pilates.com In addition to the squash court. a steam room and sauna.

“I love the creativity of our brewer partners and our taps are always changing as they bring in new ideas — if I could recommend anything. hand-hewn and has history. Saigon Outcast.BAR STOOL H o Chi Minh City’s flourishing craft beer craze has a new entrant — Rogue. “I love the history of this building. quiet and 180 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. and yet it is sleek. “It’s the kind of place where you could get lost in good conversation and good beer for a whole night. Owner Linh Nguyen opened the bar in August this year as a sister bar to his alternative event venture.” .” Up two flights of stairs is a long. so we designed the decor. “Honestly I couldn’t pick one. “Rogue is a craft beer bar with a raw. the murals and the vibe based on what it had to offer. The general ambience here is comfortable. and when I ask him for his favourite he shakes his head.” Spoilt for Choice Rogue is raw. guests can take a seat upstairs and order from their table. “I wanted Rogue to seem like it came from the bricks. the yellow lights flicking off the bright. We made the old new. Rogue Saigon has 16 local beers on tap. Linh himself chooses the beers for Rogue. as well as a number of bottles imports and local brews such as TeTe and 3 on a Bike.” says Linh.” he says. industrial-loft setting. it would be to take your pick and try something new.com warm.” says Linh. I ask Linh for a recommendation. glittering glasses that hang above the bar space. The bar serves drinks on the first floor yet lives on three levels. and while the drinks are served on the lowest level. sparsely furnished space with shining wooden floors and wide windows. two of which are rooftop terraces open to the sky.

3 On a Bike. the best thing about craft beer is how it always surprises with its distinctiveness. the local breweries on tap are Platinum. Looking around me. and the general price range is quite wide with most 330ml drinks sitting at VND95. tipping the glass to create the light fluff of a good fresh beer on top of the tasty brew itself. and with a subtle hint of citrus as I swallow. The second thing I notice about my beer is the taste — my Fuzzy Logic tastes bitter.000 and a flight of 6 samples at VND260. Pasteur Street Brewery. Q1. no one appears drunk. Most locally brewed beers here carry 5 percent alcohol content and up — my Fuzzy Logic has 5. not so much by name but by those subtleties in flavour that mainstream mass-bottled beers ignore. TeTe.000. and the first thing I notice about my beer is its size. Saigon Cider.4 percent with a 32 IBU. Currently. The bartenders pour your drink in front of you. Lac and Phat Rooster. — Zoe Osborne Rogue is at 75 Pasteur. something that many craft beer bars in the city struggle with. HCMC wordvietnam. but there seems to be that sense of beery good fellowship that you might associate with an English pub before 10pm. I can feel that warm tingly sensation that usually doesn’t hit until the second or third. 330ml and 500ml.com | November 2016 Word | 181 . To me. Every beer in this bar is different. A 195ml serve of the Fuzzy Logic costs VND40. Fuzzy Logic. and with every new glass poured another person joins the family. Rogue Saigon sells their beers in three sizes — 195ml. As I sip my first drink.000.Rogue PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN But there are so many beers to choose from. Tapped or bottled the beer is kept cold and fresh. Distinctive I start with a Fuzzy Logic. Some of the bar’s more popular imports include the Canadian Flying Monkeys Craft and US beer Rogue. almost nutty.

and entertaining music events / DJ sets.pizzahut. modern décor. GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower. as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly.com .com As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi. Q1. Tel: (08) 3744 2588 biacraft.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s. Q1. pub food. VN www. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. this large. wonderful local staff. Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon. pool and weekly poker tourneys. brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. which are served up in the garden terrace out back.vietnammm. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.eat.com FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor. 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao. lots of large screens to watch the televised sports.vn HUNGRYPANDA.com If you’re in need of dense.com BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien. Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com VIETNAMMM www. Q2. Q1. NUMBER FIVE 44 Ly Tu Trong. but with wooden tables perfect for sharing.vn An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive.com Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape.chezguido. Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.scoozipizza.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www. darts.VN www. Check their website for details.kfcvietnam. darts. Western managed. a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. Q2. Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash. Q1. GAME ON SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau. Naturally. Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon. it is. right? Well. Q1. attractive bar staff and German food menu. Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere. soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever. dartboards and of course. Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Q1 The original expat bar. Q1. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi.com TACO BICH www. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home. Q1. great cocktails and ice cold beer. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine. darts are still key here. this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice.com A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports. Sleek lines. Q3. Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre. with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue. outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. wooden-panelled. 2 Hai Trieu. Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. vietnammm. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele. Bitexco Tower. Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Q1. Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes.hyatt. Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung. 44 Pasteur.lotteria. artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.vn KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach. BROMA. 2 Lam Son. Only small. appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors. Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon. com. Has regular live music. And when we say big.com and tasty Sunday night roasts. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip. both on tap and by the bottle. classic cocktails. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea. Q1.com An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien. AB Tower. Q1.HCMC On The Town BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt. international bar and restaurant. Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Night live music and DJs. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR 24 Hai Ba Trung.vn PIZZA HUT (PHD) FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR AFTERHOURS LOUNGE D2 MALT Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.com For the spectacular views alone. One of the top watering holes in the city. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung. imported beer. the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). Q1. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR 45-47 Bui Vien.tacobich. EON HELI BAR LE PUB LOUNGE BAR INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR Level 52. SPORTS BAR 55. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR 90 Xuan Thuy.com. authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts. craft beers on tap. this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs.park. Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend. Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard.dominos. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 mayrestaurant. Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour. Also has a decent food menu. #BeAChampion.vn LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.vn SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. LA FENETRE SOLEIL CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop. Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon. LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien.vn EAT. Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990.hungrypanda. Q1. Q1.vn The original microbrewery. pool and more. Also has a pool table. elegant and spacious. Check out their daily food specials. tasty Western and Vietnamese food. 76A Le Lai. darts. we mean big. Q2. Q1. young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner. 182 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem. Q1. EXPAT BAR OMG! LAST CALL 59 Dong Du. Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon. 38 Dong Khoi.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue.com | November 2016 Word | 183 . Q3. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Serves creative.com. the kind of place found in Hong Kong. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung. The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities. Phatty’s has become the goto. check out their zesty rolls. WINE BAR 38 31B Ly Tu Trong. industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. Q7. a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. Tel: (08) 3914 3999 facebook. Phu My Hung. Q2. Q1. Q1. and a lounge on the first floor. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook. dark wooden furniture. quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. SAIGON RANGER shelf spirits and friendly. Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. Great pizzas. Q1. from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi. cold drinks and beautiful people. 76 Le Lai. lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Phenomenal cocktails. with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. Q7. the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art.com A recently opened. A good place to watch the live sports. Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon. Q1. houses an upscale. Q’vans. Q1 saigonsoul. 1923 Lam Son Square. 70s and 80s tunes. sangria. Q1. THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3. Tel: (08) 3828 8828 quilounge. Does a great grill menu and of course. great music and loads of laughs. this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.com/thecubesaigon A sleek. this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks. Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. stick around for entertaining events and markets. Booming house music.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin. ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh.com The ultimate in poolside entertainment. MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT C0. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong. Q1.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. Has regular live music nights. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South. CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR THE OBSERVATORY XU BAR. CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung. 5B Ton Duc wordvietnam. Bui Bang Doan. Nguyen Luong Bang. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city. Q7. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2. PEACHES CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2. Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon. New York or Central Melbourne. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system. showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. Caravelle Saigon. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual. Q1 shrinebarsaigon. Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook. Q1. the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May. Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. Q1. 5/7 Nguyen Sieu. Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com/vespersaigon A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. where three talented Filipino bands (B&U. Has an excellent food menu and a tasty brunch. Tapas. Regular DJ nights. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB New World Saigon Hotel. stylish top-end bar with a house DJ that is the plaything of Saigon’s jetset and anyone who is prepared to pay for atmosphere and one of the most hedonistic venues in town. 167 Hai Ba Trung. And for a real treat. Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux. yet hip ambience. Q1. Inspired by Bantay Srei. with BBQs available for parties and events. INTERNATIONAL BAR & LOUNGE 22 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’. Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar. Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp. With ambient lighting and town tempo music. Boasts concrete floors. great food.vn Named after the Danish artist Storm P. A popular local haunt. THE CUBE BAR AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep. Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon. contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. hostess style table service are the name game here.com/TheSocietyHCM Designed as a Laneway-style restobar.01 Riverside Residence C. SHRINE BAR QUI LOUNGE VINYL BAR HIP RESTOBAR ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT PHATTY’S Thang.com This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Top THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue. this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao. London. steaks. U2 and Guns n’ Roses. LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiep. large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists. a full-blown meal or a mixture of both. Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium.This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Q4. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu. grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks. Q7. Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix.

The café overlooks a wide paddock of rough green — a strange open space in the otherwise crowded city.com City about seven years ago. When we enter we are asked to take off our shoes to keep the floor clean of street grime. The stairs to the upper level are shallow and the whole area seems somehow miniature. but we wanted it to become a home. and the air stays cool. Instead.” says café manager Tung. So 7 looks like it was once someone’s home — tucked away round the corner behind private gates. facing a school from across the street. and almost obscuring any hint of the café from passers-by.” The café seems to attract students as its main demographic.COFFEE CUP S o 7 Cafe sits behind a skyblue sign at the end of a broad alleyway. local vendors make use of the alleyway’s quiet shade. Started by a group of students from the University of Architecture in Ho Chi Minh 184 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. filling it with bun and Saigon’s infamous com tam. “When we designed the space we wanted to make it feel like you are entering a quiet. the vibe is peaceful and tranquil. cosy living room. . “So 7 was not originally a house. A Special Recipe The café does not have any chairs. During the day. hidden inside its own narrow alley.

and each item has both a daytime and a night-time price. So 7 is a growing project. Prices range from about VND35.. tea and beer.000 to VND60. along with fruit juices. “We are all about sharing our creativity with the people who visit So 7. — Zoe Osborne Café So 7 is at 7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem. smoothies. it can be hard to create a café concept that stands out. although they tend to stay on the lower level of the café so if you need something on the upper floor you may have to call or climb down. The staff here are friendly and polite. Soft music plays in the background. So 7 serves quite a range of drinks. which turns out to be a rich cashew-nut blend. There is also a small selection of food and a list of delicious ice-creams.” says Tung. As we sit down. We order a ca phe den da at VND32. the café manager brings us two glasses of iced jasmine tea and a menu.000 and a ca phe ngoi nha so 7 at VND45. but this quiet corner of the city seems to have found its own niche. HCMC wordvietnam.com | November 2016 Word | 185 .So 7 Café PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO people sit on cushions on the carpet with wooden. from basic Vietnamese ca phe to extravagant mocca concoctions.000.000. Q3.” In such a flourishing. crate-like boxes for tables. “We have many goals for the future. Most of the coffee is designed and concocted on-site and follows a special So 7 recipe. diverse coffee culture as that of Saigon.

36 Le Loi. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor. Q2 Tel. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks. Q1.000.D. Q1. accompanied by some background jazz. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.vn Trendy without pretense. On The Town AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien. Q1. lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.coffee Nitro cold brew coffee. it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. Q1. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du. Q3. Q1. whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. America and the Middle East. KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING 40 Mac Thi Buoi. Tel: (08) 6685 4160 klasik. The contemporary. 151 Dong Khoi. and a fashion store and art gallery out back.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy. Q1 coffeebean. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong. here you’ll be in heaven. Da Kao. Q1. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea. Q1. Q1. 14 Ton That Dam.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu. juices. sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. Q1. Q1. Q1. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia.com A small but swanky cafe. drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma. homemade desserts. Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels. I.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard. 14 Ton That Dam. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Al Fresco’s offers international. Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. siphon. the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. single origin coffee and healthy food. quirky environment. open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40. Tel: 01699 990003 sam. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor. excellent service and even better fish. nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat. AB Tower. it is an afternoon well-spent. Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon. everything gets a touch of modernity. Q1. shows immense local culture. or quality conversations held over a drink or two. on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere. Open daily from 7am to 10pm. creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee. Great prices and food with daily specials. An institution. Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious. Europe. Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR L’USINE 23 Ly Tu Trong. Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. With a cup of well-brewed coffee. yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.com 235 Dong Khoi. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink. Q2.com Besides the spectacular views. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES for coffee. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh. speciality coffee such as cold drip. 76A Le Lai. Tel: (08) 6674 9565. Q1. i. Q1. tea and more tea.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. film screenings. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor. Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere.HCMC CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh. 29 Ton That Thiep.nguyen197@gmail. Offers up tasty breakfasts. the taste. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur. A simple. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor. INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story. Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. Tel: 0935 293400 facebook. Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture). 14 Ton That Dam. Second location on Le Loi. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com. Metropolitan Building. or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. seafood and meats. 14 Ton That Dam.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung. the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw. Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies. smoothies. Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc. CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH HIDEAWAY First Floor. 186 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet apartment complex. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe. contemporary environment adds to the theme. all in a contemporary. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan. A pleasant.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains. 70B Le Loi. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop. Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. Q1. done with a modern flare. the ample soft. Comfortable couch seating. Q1.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor. Aus- . and art exhibits. Tel: 0909 670272 facebook. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. this two-floor.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390. Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange.000. All complemented by fresh. and pizzas. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five. Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito. 2 Hai Trieu.com Long-running. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien.vn Although a hotel restaurant. Q1.tralian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient. all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. Q1. vada and uthapam. chicken. 2 Hai Trieu. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du. spiced up cocktails.com. Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang. but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. hot pots and curries. and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. EON51 FINE DINING AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN Level 51.com Creatively named burgers. homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following.com. baked potatoes. Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers. onions and a lime leaf marinade. eon51. pizzas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4. Q1. Unit CR1-12. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile. Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Q7.000.in This pleasant.blogspot. Tel: (08) 6291 8750 HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ Ground Floor. Bitexco Tower. this relative newcomer to the dining scene with its bright decor serves up mainly North Indian cuisine with a large vegetarian selection as well as South Indian curries. Phu My Hung.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and 38 Dang Dung. Q1. pastas. all set in a contemporary. dosa.com | November 2016 Word | 187 .com Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Q1. 103 Ton Dat Tien. spacious environment. 74/3 Hai Ba Trung. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien. The Crescent. Q2. toasties. orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. friendly service to match. tiramisu. the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy. Q7. Has a popular motorbike rental service. Probably serves up the best steak in town. award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs. Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small. Q2.com. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road. then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. Dishes include noodle soup.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers. Q1. Q1. passadors bring the meat skewers to your table. Try their pad thai — to die for. creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.Meat curries cost from VND100. 33 Tong Huu Dinh. Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com Located opposite Martini Bar. stir fries. Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe. the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients. airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. Thao Dien. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard. Tel: (08) 3827 2090. Q1. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton. cooked fresh to order. bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare. ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton. EL GAUCHO HOANG YEN ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE PAN-VIETNAMESE 74 Hai Ba Trung. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH AU LAC DO BRAZIL BLACK CAT BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur. Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. Tel: (08) 3823 1372.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches. Q1. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur. All speciality foods are cooked to order. skewers. Now with a number of restaurants around town. Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. salads and mezzes. com or facebook. Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon. aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square. from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala. kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Tel: (08) 38229366 padamjivietnam@gmail. tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches. Slick service. GANESH PAN-INDIAN 74 A2 Hai Ba Trung. 7 Ngo Duc Ke. Tel: (08) 3838 6661 13 Phan Van Dat. Excellent. Q3. Q7. a good wine menu. Vietnamese fare and more.vn A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork. Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist.com Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town. contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien. Q1. mustard leaf prawn rolls. Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho. lamb. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia. Q1. An Phu Superior Compound. blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. 107 Ton Dat Tien. build-your-own breakfasts. Q1. homemade spicy sausage. burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. The Crescent. babaskitchen.000 to VND120. CHRIS FOOD ONLINE TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS Tel: 0909 365525 (English) / 0909 320717 (French) chrisfoodonline. mains and more.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Options include cheesecake. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti. Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup. Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon.com. steamed ravioli and beef stew. nothing is frozen. Tel: (08) 3823 1101. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad. chicken curries and muffin. Bitexco Financial Tower. and you. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung. Q1. Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil. AMERICAN AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen. Q1. lasagna. kormas.com/muasaleoff2014 Traditional French cuisine and exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi Minh City and delivered to your door. Q2. fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger. Tel: (08) 3915 6066 wordvietnam. Phu My Hung. Q1.

as the man behind the scenes also has his hand in other restaurant projects in Saigon. The taste was a piquant combination of the saltiness from the ribs and the sourness of the tamarind sauce.000). but could prove a formidable competitor to other Thai eateries 188 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Just a few metres off Nguyen Hue walking street and set in a three-storey building. this Thai restaurant opened in September.com in town. making them suited to any palate. carrot. we noticed other diners looking our way thanks to the . The first dish we tried. string beans and three slices of salted egg. Spice Temple oozes modernity and elegance through the use of subtle lighting. This was followed by rock-grilled pork ribs (VND165. When Spice Temple’s pad thai (VND165. Fused According to the chef. dishes at Spice Temple are inspired by Thai cuisine but recreated with international flavours. the ribs were grilled to a deep brown. Although mixed with the sweet-and-sour fish sauce that you might find similar to Vietnamese fish sauce. Aiming to give an authentic Thai feel.000) emerged. which is rare in the golden area of Saigon. Spice Temple imports all its spices and Tupperware from Thailand. the papaya salad (VND75.000) was a mixture of papaya. the salad still retained its crunchiness from the papaya. Furnished with wooden chairs and tables. We wanted to order a second portion. high windows and wooden geometric wall decorations. and leather sofas. Simply decorated with a few lettuce leaves and a tamarind dipping sauce.TOP EATS A n interesting touch to the recently opened Spice Temple is that the whole ground floor is reserved for motorbike parking.

000). coffee. smoothies and fruit juices are also served. For Those Who Have a Sweet Tooth On the dessert front. Q1. Soft drinks.com. “was bought and kept alive until we cooked it. Thai mango panna cotta (VND75.000 per bottle).000). made a great companion to the prawn. mango with sticky rice (VND35.Spice Temple PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN presentation of this quintessential Thai dish — a huge prawn placed on top of the noodles gave it a wow factor.000) imported from Thailand. Visit spicetemple.000 per bottle) or Villa Garrel Rose (VND750.” The noodles.000 up. with prices from VND25.000 per glass). HCMC and is open daily from 11am to 10pm.com | November 2016 Word | 189 . after they were mixed with other ingredients.vn for menu and info wordvietnam. Spice Temple goes for authentic and well-selected options that include Thai cendol (VND65.000).000) and fried banana with coconut ice cream (VND95. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Spice Temple is at 81 Mac Thi Buoi. There is also a decent selection of wine including Casillero Del Diablo (VND120. The prawn was juicy and fresh and as the chef explained later. All were tasty and moreish. To wash it all down we went for the Singha beer (VND75. Matua (VND780.

Fiesta over Finance After turning his back on a career in finance almost a decade ago. but it’s one of the few places along the nightlife strip set back from the street offering space. Sancho’s will soon be the king of Mexicali food in all of Asia. It’s cosy and seats 30 people at a stretch. Sancho’s is one of a number of Mexican restaurants opened recently in Ho Chi Minh City with its specialities originating from southern California where Calvin grew up. .com Doing business along Bui Vien can be challenging given the competition and the sheer density of the area.TOP EATS S ancho Cantina on Bui Vien in District 1 has given itself the tag of king of Mexicali food in Ho Chi Minh City since opening earlier this year. in particular Mexicali food. 190 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Calvin caved in to his passion for food. but Calvin believes the food and drinks at Sancho’s speak for themselves. Sancho’s is at the quieter end of Bui Vien towards Cong Quynh. and has reinvented himself as a restaurateur. It also has access via an alley beside it if the party needs to spill over into the street or you need somewhere to park. But if co-owner Calvin Bui has his way. They already make one of the best margaritas in Vietnam.

“We focus on fresh ingredients and make our own stuff daily. — Matt Cowan Sancho Cantina is located at 207 Bui Vien. The Baja-style sea bass taco with cabbage slaw. Calvin appears with the tacos. Q1.Sancho Cantina PHOTOS BY MIKE PALUMBO “The growth in popularity of Mexican food here is exciting. There are six on the menu to choose from — Baja-style fish. red sauce and cheese.” says Calvin. ground beef and vegetarian. Then comes the main dish. but for an extra VND50. guacamole.” Hospitality Overload By the time our first pitcher of margarita (VND300. “Our tortillas are made here each morning and while we import special ingredients from Los Angeles.000) each in front of us and a line-up of Sancho’s own Phat Rooster ales starting from VND35. You’ll need them. carne asada. nachos and quesadillas. there’s a shot of Two Fingers tequila (VND60.000 for a 330ml glass of Saigon Blonde. grilled chicken. Bring your friends. like fajitas. citrus and chilli flavours set off a fiesta in my mouth while the freshness and texture of each tortilla with Sancho’s own spicy sauce was a highlight. They are as colourful as his personality and have as much zing as his one-liners.000) has been downed. enchiladas.” Before we know it. they disappeared in a flash. Two burritos. Sancho’s has all the other Mexican favourites.000 you can go ‘Sancho-style’ with sour cream.000. “It’s great to see Mexican food trending in Vietnam and we’re hoping to open in Danang and Hanoi in 2017. The regular size comes in at VND160. one ground beef. pork carnitas. everything else is from the local markets. Keep an eye out for a lot of fun events soon like an all-you-can-eat Taco Libre night and a ‘Man Versus Burrito’ challenge.” says Calvin.000 each. At VND40.com | November 2016 Word | 191 . pico de gallo. the other vegetarian. HCMC and is open from 11am to 2am wordvietnam.

pastel-coloured 192 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam.com/LeCorto Open for lunch and set dinner. salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere. Q1. The robust. meats off . PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue. with healthy juices and smoothies. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh. 39 Le Duan. chilli crab and fish head curry. Q2. Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao. comfortable seating. Tel: (08) 3602 2241. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. the meats. KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel. Q1. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE. Q1. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan. mee rebus. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city. Crn. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Q1. Subtle lighting. 116 Suong Nguyet Anh. plating up the likes of nasi lemak. KP My Phat. Q1. The Mediterranean and The Orient. gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant. Kumho Link. 17 Le Duan. Q1. Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles. Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant. Q1. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine. Either way. authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery. Q1. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton. great cuisines of Europe. Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN 29 Hai Trieu. Has petanque on the terrace. RESTAURANT 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di. Excellent service. Check out their pepper steaks. Reasonably priced.com walls and ficus trees.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi. excellent pizza and grilled dishes. this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. just minutes from the backpacker area. Lo H29-2. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung.000. Q7. at this popular. Tel: (08) 6253 282 pendolasco.com One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda.com Although a chain restaurant.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers. Although the selection is small. cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. An Phu. Tel: (08) 6260 2727 loveat. Q1. Q1.vn Opening out into a large. bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced.com. Q1. an attractive outdoor terrace area. Has a small but well thought out menu. Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.com The rustic looking. backed up with an extensive wine list. 19 Lam Son Square.com Offers authentic. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha. pickles. Of course it is. gnocchi. Kumho Link. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen. this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Tel: (08) 3821 8181. the beautiful rustic décor is matched by a darkwood. bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott. with breads. as well as more traditional varieties. Q2.HCMC On The Town hogsbreathcafe. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. Not only is it well-priced. Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome. com Casual yet stylish. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen. a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare. Q2. Check out their set lunches and happy hour. Nguyen Luong Bang. pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch.01 Riverside Residence C. an extensive wine and cocktail list.com Friendly. Nam Giao is the place. as well as specialities like frog porridge. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Dishes range from VND80. Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef. classic setting. Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York. cheeses. quan nhau-style setting. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong. but the bun bo Hue. Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge. Has a second branch in District 2. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Q1. this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. A great place for dinner. Also has an extensive wine list. Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps. and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe. high-quality. lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung. here it’s all about the loaded fries. risotto. Excellent outdoor terrace. then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. com hen. open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. 36 Tong Huu Dinh. Q1. Q1.vn Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower. Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. BAR. Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery. chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant. LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 5D Nguyen Sieu. right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese. this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. leafy terracotta-tiled garden area. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 3rd Floor Rooftop. bun thit nuong. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung. Q1.com If you want to take friends. Q1. Tel: (08) 3519 4009 facebook. Q1.000 to VND900. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Phu My Hung. POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES 14M Quoc Huong. 17A Ngo Van Nam. Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. Q1.restaurant19@gmail. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel. Does a great grill menu and of course. Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant. the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. fresh ingredients. 273 Phan Xich Long. Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine. and excellent. and everything you eat here is quality. fishes and seafoods are all fresh. and a good kids menu. this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine. and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best.com. Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook. Tel: 0938 754251. Phu Nhuan. A great place to take out-of-town guests. Bakery-style Bistro out front. Q1. SD04. relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment. Tel: (08) 38 250261. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET LION CITY SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan. Q1. grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. all with a European influence. Q1. cheap house wine is served by the carafe. Caravelle Hotel.com/madsaigon Set over a pool in a leafy. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta. Q1. this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table. InterContinental Asiana Saigon.com Drawing inspiration from the Ground Floor. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1. to boot! L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza. Open late. Q2. Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook. with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien. which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer.vn This intimate. May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT C0. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square. MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. tropical garden. NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor. Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza. the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Q1. and born from a passion for sharing. Tel: (08) 3822 0671 facebook. banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. and awesome chicken curry. 39 Le Duan. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet. this contemporary. Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau. aircon interior.

Q1.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. Good for events. Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub. Q1. Q1. FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square.com. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers. Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi. Q1. 88 Dong Khoi.com Set over two floors. in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. 76A Le Lai. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals. Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Q2. with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland.com Simple. Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor. And if you like your dim sum. REFINERY SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant. A place to see and be seen.house@yahoo. international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki. the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese.com If you like your buffet selections to be big. wordvietnam. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Tamago has indoor and out door seating. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.com Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. Q2. with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room. complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.com.the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap. A well-thought out and romantic venue. Tel (08) 6253 7711 theracharoom. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong. AB Tower. this popular. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung. Tel (08) 3826 8691 stokerwoodfiredgrill.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien. Tel: 01207 214294. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi. Q1. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed. Hong Kong and Dubai. Q3. this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor. Norfolk Mansion. then here it is gargantuan. Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace. the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. unpretentious Greekinfluenced. osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Q1. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside. Asian and Vietnamese buffets. this astonishing. Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon. Q1. with every type of option under the sun. a range of dips. An excellent place for group dining. Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace. 105-107 Xuan Thuy. Features western. PAN-JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh. look no further. Tel: 0909 004294 relishandsons. contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional. Q2. Singapore. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality.com The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. comfortable space. with excellent food. 29-31 Ton That Thiep. Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul. RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi. no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York.kr The longest running Korean restaurant in town. 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24. mousaka.com Open until 3am.com | November 2016 Word | 193 . Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou. a terrace and private rooms. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.com. 76 Le Lai. TAMAGO SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du. Centec Tower. 38 Nguyen U Di. Q1. Q1. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch. 74 Hai Ba Trung. AB Building. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon. 8–15 Ton Duc Thang.

Cholon in Ho Chi Minh City — spanning Districts 5. Chinese immigrants — the Hoa people — established a site on the embankments beyond the Saigon river as a defensive strategy against the Tay Son forces that had previously massacred them. Rapid advances in technology in the latter part of the 19th century quickly reduced the time it took to get to Saigon. a rich Chinese merchant. In the 20th century trams were electrified. and in April 1931 the two cities were merged (the connection being at Nguyen Van Cu) to form the single city SaigonCholon.com . In 1956. that grow into each other over time. Many Chinese-Vietnamese (Viet Hoa) still live in Cholon and while a casual visitor perhaps cannot discern a difference between the entities of what were once twin cities. They were largely left alone and their trading strength attracted many new immigrant Chinese to Vietnam. The authorities have recognised many of these temples and clan associations as national historical and cultural sites. 6 and 11 — is the largest in the world. There are goods you can find in Cholon that you cannot find elsewhere in Ho Chi Minh City. Strong social and cultural institutions such as clan associations. Eventually becoming run-down and overcrowded. Their relative remoteness allowed them to grow their village into a trading centre and when the French arrived they were able to provide them with valuable services such as the transportation of goods through river and canal networks. it was destroyed by fire in 1928. and in most cases losing their own identities. temples and monasteries still exist. To Market. with its essence and its core constituency still intact. It will endure as a separate but connected entity. While the Cholon market continued to enjoy an advantage with its better location and loyal patronage. expanding the settlement. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects. To Market Much of that trade revolves around the markets. who called it Cho Binh Tay. following independence 194 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. They called their site Tai-Ngon (meaning embankment). was located where the main post office in Cholon now stands. This trading DNA resulted in the name Cholon bestowed by the Vietnamese. the Cholon name was dropped and the city was incorporated into Saigon. a new and bigger market was proposed and built by Quach Dam. the original market. That technology was the tram and the earliest tram line in Saigon was the connection to Cholon. with the cultural infrastructure of temples including Jade Emperor. Coming Together Successful trading brings with it economic growth and in 1879 Cholon was incorporated as a separate city.KNOW YOUR CITY A TALE OF TWO CITIES BY ED HAYSOM A lmost every major city has its Chinatown. There is something eternal about Cholon. It is hard understanding that it was once an independent city.com PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS from France. a special case of places founded in close proximity. founded in 1778 at the same time as the city’s incorporation. Binh Tay Market is the second largest market in the city and District 5 and District 6 are still the places to go to find bargains. making the travel times even shorter. Chua Ngoc Hoang and the magnificent Quan Am Pagoda. Cholon was settled before the formal establishment of Saigon. a twin city to Saigon. gifting it to the French Governor in exchange for exclusive construction rights of selected areas around the market. providing a remarkable and valuable part of Ho Chi Minh City. Yet Cholon’s trading DNA remains in place. with any border or barrier between them becoming irrelevant. the local Viet Hoa people remain close-knit and parochial. as the term for “big market”. allowing Cholon to develop even faster. Twin cities are unusual. During the 18th century. The historical sites also function as tourist attractions and contribute to the tourism industry of Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam. There were once two Cholon markets.

Q3 260C Pasteur. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll. Q2 PHO BO 413-415 Nguyen Trai. Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. Hueinfluenced cuisine. yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city. Phenomenal cocktails. and healthy. and the staff are often surprisingly lazy. a full-blown meal or a mixture of both. Q3 COM GA XOI MO SU SU PHO HOA VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN PHO BO & PHO GA BA GHIEN COM TAM 84 Dang Van Ngu.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles. Tan Binh SUSHI KO STREET SUSHI 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh. garlic or MSG. Khai. Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung. 5B Ton Duc Thang. Q10 COM TAM 40A Quoc Huong. thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience. Q3 BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI 62 Nguyen Van Trang. TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao. Q1. 102 Cao Thang. Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection.com | November 2016 Word | 195 . Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Tel: (08) 3821 7751 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan. Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town. London. Cheap. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Phu Nhuan 55 Tu Xuong. Q1 CHI THONG PHO DAU BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI PHO BO 195 Co Giang. Q1 BANH MI HUYNH HOA ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI 26 Le Thi Rieng. Q3 PHO PHU VUONG PHO BO 339 Le Van Sy. Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI 170 Vo Van Tan. Q1.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan. Q3. Q4 THE LUNCH LADY DAILY CHANGING DISHES 23 Hoang Sa. Serves creative. 226 De Tham. Stylish and spectacular. Q3. Q3 COM TAM 40A PHO LE BA NAM VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook. The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. that no-one seems to mind. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien. too. Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space. grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks. Q1 TIEM COM GA HAI NAM HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE 67 Le Thi Hong Gam. 164 Cong Quynh.On The Town PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN HCMC ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue. 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Q1. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer.com/TheSocietyHCM Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar. Q5 146E Ly Chinh Thang. fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen.com MI QUANG MY SON PHO PHU GIA MI QUANG PHO BO BUN CHA HA NOI NAM GIAO BUN CHA BUN BO HUE 26/1A Le Thanh Ton. InterContinental Asiana Saigon.com/vespersaigon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle. the kind of place found in Hong Kong. Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak. Q3 BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON 11A Cao Thang. Tel: (08) 3821 8971. Q1. Q1. all cooked up without onions. Tel: (08) 3914 3999 facebook. Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh wordvietnam. Q1 288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types. as diners look on. crn. Q1. Q1. Q3 YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor. New York or Central Melbourne. Q1 M M M STREET FOOD 38 Dinh Tien Hoang. 111 Nguyen Hue.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown. Tel: (08) 3822 2166. Q1 189 Bis Bui Vien. Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow. Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM 271 Nguyen Trai. BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI 107 Truong Dinh. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. steaks. BO KHO Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong.

C3 Ban Co C1 Ben Chuong Duong D3. D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3. A5 B2 E3. D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4. D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1. E1. C2 Luu Van Lang C4 KY ong MA N G TH PHO COOKING INGREDIENTS Ham Nghi C4. B3 B3.com TAM Than h DISTRICT 10 h Ma H uyn GUITARS Nguyen Thien Thuat D1. C3 Calmette C4 Calmette D4 Cao Ba Nha D3 Cao Thang C1. C5 C4 D5. C5 Hai Ba Trung A2. D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4. B3. B3. A2 Khanh Hoi D4. C2. C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5.5km ng SEAFOOD Vinh Khanh D4. C5 C4. E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4. D3 Dien Bien Phu A4. C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5. B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3. C1 D1 A3 D1 A2. B5. B3. B3 A2. 5 E1 Huynh Thuc Khang C4 Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. B2 B1 B2. C3. E3 Hoang Sa A4. B5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3 Le Loi C4 Le Quoc Hung D4. C4 N GU 2 PHA ND ien gH on hu ARMY SURPLUS Dan Sinh Market D4 uy anh Th JAPANESE RESTAURANTS Le Thanh Ton B4. D5 Le Quy Don B3 Le Thanh Ton B4. E4 Ky Con C4. C4. C2 Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4. A3. E4. C4 Ngo Duc Ke C5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2. C4 Mac Dinh Chi B4 Mac Thi Buoi C5 Mai Thi Luu A4 Me Linh A5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2. B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4. B3. C2 Dinh Cong Trang A3 Dinh Tien Hoang A4. C4 Le Thi Hong Gam C4. D4 Le Thi Rieng C3 Le Van Sy A1 Luong Huu Khanh C2 Luu Van Lang C4 Ly Chinh Thang B2 Ly Thai To D1 Ly Tu Trong B4. D4 Ng D en Tran Huy Lieu Phan Dinh Phung Phan Ke Binh Phan Van Han Pho Duc Chinh Phung Khac Khoan Suong Nguyet Anh Tan Vinh Thach Thi Thanh Thai Van Lung Thi Sach Thu Khoa Huan Ton Dan Ton Duc Thang Ton That Dam Ton That Thiep Ton That Tung Tran Binh Trong Tran Canh Chan Tran Cao Van Tran Dinh Xu Tran Hung Dao Tran Huy Lieu Tran Khac Chan Tran Khanh Du Tran Minh Quyen Tran Nhan Tong Tran Nhat Duat Tran Phu Tran Quang Khai Tran Quoc Thao Tran Quoc Toan Tran Van Dang Truong Dinh Truong Quyen Truong Sa Tu Xuong Vinh Hoi Vinh Khanh Vo Thi Sau Vo Van Tan Vuon Chuoi Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Xom Chieu Yersin Tran N 3 Thang 2 C1 Alexandre de Rhodes B4 An Duong Vuong D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2. B3. D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2. D2 Ng u yen Tron FLOWERS Le Thanh Ton C4 Minh Quye n uyen Binh FABRICS Hai Ba Trung A3 KH OI NG HI Dinh Tran EVERYTHING Ben Thanh Market C4 nh Van Tran Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club NG SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1. B4. D5. B4. B5. B2. D3 D3. C2 C2 A5 E5 C4. C3. E3 Bui Thi Xuan C3 Bui Vien D3 Cach Mang Thang Tam B1. D2. C3. B4 Do Quang Dau D3 Do Thanh C1 Doan Nhu Hai D5 Doan Van Bo D5 Dong Du C5 Dong Khoi B4. D2 Chu Manh Trinh B4. B1 A3 A2 B1. C3 B3 A4. D5. E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2. B2. B4 C2. E5 B5. C5 H uy Saigon Train Station Minh Quye n Tan Binh 0. D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2. C3 D4. D4 Cong Quynh D3 De Tham C3. C1. B5. B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3. C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4. E1. E4 A3 B5 B5. E2 D2 B4 D2. D4. A3 B1. E5 D4. B3. D5 NG Thao Truo ng ONG LE H COMPUTERS Ton That Tung C2. D4 PHU ROI PH U MOTORBIKES Ly Tu Trong C3 YEN VAN T INH Le V an S y N BIKE MAINTENANCE Nguyen Du C3 Huy uynh nh Van Banh B IE N LUGGAGE Le Lai C3. D4 Ky Dong B2 Le Cong Kieu C4 Le Duan B4. C3 D1. D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2 inh 1 PHU NHUAN A yen Ngu Tran Huy Lieu HCMC Map Airport 3km h Chin Dinh O UNG DA TRAN H . 3 A2 Huynh Van Banh A1. C5 Ho Xuan Huong C2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu D4. C5 C4 C2. D2 CAR COMPONENTS Tran Quang Khai A3 Ky Con C4. D5 A3. D4 B3. C2. C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4. C5. B3. B5 h Do ANTIQUES Le Cong Kieu C4 in Ch T en uy Ng A2 A4 A5 C4. E3 Ben Van Don D4. C5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi C4 Han Thuyen B4 Ho Hao Hon D3 Ho Tung Mau C4. C2. A5 Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Man Dat Dist. B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3. E2.BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1 PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3 CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4 CAC H ung Hoa H A NG C 3 District 11 2km Ban h A Min 2 NG THA Ba n hQ uy en Ng DIE LY THA I G HT HAN Vuon Chuoi Market Tha n g Co hie hC uy e nT hie n Ng Thu at uy e u in nD Ha on nS ye u Ng EN UY NG TO AI KH H N I I M Chanh TH am Viet Ph U PH AN R T Teacher Training University U AN D G VUON yen n Trai Binh Bieu Tran DISTRICT 5 Ng u y e Ngu WEDDING SERVICES Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1 ONG CU VAN G HUN University of Natural Sciences NG VUO YEN STATIONERY Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3 Tron g E Ch uo i N GU SPORTSWEAR Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Binh Tay Market 3km AU HI S T O g D LY CHI N V Ca o Tra n Quan Tho ng Vu on t n Da 196 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. C4. B5 Co Bac D3 Co Giang D3. C2. C3. C3 Quoc Ba H han To SAFES Vo Van Tan C3 NA M Ky D B Tran Tran Tran Van Dang PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2. E2 A1.

The Hydrofoil Service N Doan i hu Ha g Hoan Dieu Vung Tau H HA N Van ieu Doa nV an B u D ie u D ie inh B en Tr Hai u oi T TAT Le Q V Tan ong oD Kh e cK YEN g uon oi hH an C Du ng Hoa i hoa B en ng huo Ng To ong Tru ng D huo Kh t ha ghiep uan N Do ng HU E B en ng Hoa nK uy e P ua Ho H y en Ng u C B en i N GU Dan Sinh Market ru g T Ky C on Con g Ng Ch UY EN o Bu r teu Pa s en guy iB Tha Huyn NG iep Th i Th Du am a I LO LE t ha c Ma n Na m nh ha hK Nh T Ton ang nL Va Vinh Cha n An ng Do tD Co g ac h Opera House on hT Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km Ton Duc Thang Museum u Sie en uy Thi g N S Tha N n G ia an Th TR UN G HU H Vin Ba st eur HIA Ca o oi Ngo V a Tha iV an Lu ng h Tra i Kh BA EN UY AN UC on hT L in Ch Bac n ha eT NG TH AN G te ian HA I UC Tri nh Du et lm Ca G Co Xu en guy n n u am si Yer Ho gG Hon uM anh TO ND ng ro uT yL T Tru c Ben Thanh Market N hu Ha o en am Th De Ho en DISTRICT 1 en Tru ng Ton C HO gu ye nK ha cN Trinh en Cu Nguy L hi eT AI TH u Da ng O DA NG HU Co uy Do ng Saigon Bus Station ien Bui V AN TRN Ng i EN UY Ph a Qu Ng u yen ng D Th u PHAM HONG THAI o gu La am N uy Du Central Post Office Le 23/9 Park ang Dinh Duc Ba N UA Cathedral ED rai en T i Thai Binh Market Con gQ uyn h ho Co ng NG Le La AN DU Zoo & Botanical Gardens UY EN BIN HK HIE M uc nh eR s de Pa Le La y Ng u LE Re-unification Palace Le Thi Rieng Tun g HTV Television Ton u iX Th an y en NG au gM Tun i Bu Tra n Can h INH AI KH Tru o Ngu IM Chi L 30 Thang 4 yen u Park Han Th Tan Tao Dan Park nh NG TH Ng d re nd xa Ale Labour Culture Chu HCMC Palace a Conservatory of Music n o Ca Ma cD inh n Va EN UY I HA Ho u Ng A m Tha De cC ua in K INH st eur KH OI NG HI M HI u Ch Do Cao T hang Kha Quo NG E UY NT G Hoa Lu Stadium G I NG K HO Huu Na m n Va Vo h n Tra KH IEM oD Ph Luo ng Th at cT hao hac RU N n OA N KY g on Su War Remnants Museum TAM tA ye KY ieu N Ba Huy en ieu Than D hQ hi Tan Ton Quo Ng uy en Gia Th ieu Din h T en iN ho o TL Ng e Qu yD on Pa cT BA T D en uy Ng hie hC BIN H NAM n Va Vo Tra n ng uo nH a u oX CAC H Tran Ng o HA I en hu nT Lu u o District 7 & Nha Be Kha nh DISTRICT 4 Ton D an D IEN HU NP BIE Kh ac K hoa DISTRICT 3 ong Xu uy NH hi inh Saigon South 4km wordvietnam.Toan Tran Quoc P ha m ho oT Ng hie iN H NA M Tru ong m gu y gu MANN G TH nD ye Ch inh A NG Huy en Tra n Du Ng Kh oa Hua ong u Tr Ly T inh h han Le T n uy Lu hang uc K h Th Le Cong Kieu inh HAM NGHI en Nguy Don Tru Cong Huynh Man Dat NNEL THU THIEM TU Don Van uoc H un g VinaExpress .com | November 2016 Word | 197 Ch ieu AU HI S T O m hie Tu Qu yen Ng Va TIE eB XO Xo m V DIN H P ha nK NG UY EN Han ANG st eur AU HI S T O Ma iT H o an g Sa UC TH Tru ong uc Le Van Tam Park U PH IEN B Phu N ng DIE uo c nQ Tra Pa uy Tu INH E TPhan Van TON D V Toa n Cua hanh nH GH TN E I V TON DUC T HANG c Chan a Tran Kh Ca u uu on hC Di n Thi T uy e g on G ng ra gT Ng u Ph RUN Ph Truonng Sa Hoang Sa c go AT an Phan Va Vann Ha Han N en M Ly V Thac h 5 BINH THANH N U PH uy inh n Va en uy Ng Hi AI a B DIE N BIE Ng hT Tran Quang Khai Nguyen Phi Khanh Tran Quang Khai Tan Dinh Market NG HA HT N CHI LY Huyn Duat uy en Ng uy en H Ng Tran Nhat an 3 DINH TIEN HOANG Ng uy en V Du Tran Khannhh 4 Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km .

But antibiotics don’t work. because even someone who has never taken antibiotics before may one day catch a more developed bacterial infection which is resistant to standard treatment. Similarly. Here you can buy the drugs straight out of the pharmacy. which are caused by viruses. are bought and sold… as easily as vegetables. for influenza or any other type of cold. director of the National Tropical Diseases Hospital.” he added. There are many things which help ease its symptoms. there is wide awareness of the problem. “They go to the pharmacy to pick up antibiotics anytime they feel sick. These are some of the most effective treatments. And colds and flu are ailments which strike most people at least once a year. Pharmacopia It’s happened to me more than once. keeping these affordable becomes a big challenge. I’m sure most foreigners living in Vietnam are familiar with the often-told tale. In Vietnam. though. more expensive antibiotics. I found out that not only was that particular medicine an antibiotic not effective for my cold symptoms. that of going to a pharmacy with a blocked nose and being sold a colourful combination of mystery medication. As old antibiotics lose their 198 | Word November 2016 | wordvietnam. The issue quickly becomes a national one. piles of takeaway food and lots of sympathetic mollycoddling from your partner.” “Vietnamese use antibiotics like eating rice. This simple premise is the single biggest misunderstanding in Vietnamese medical habits. antibiotics only work against bacteria. after researching at home what I’d been sold. Antibiotics serve no purpose other than in the treatment of bacterial infections. Vietnam had the highest prevalence of penicillin-resistant pneumococcus (a bacteria causing pneumonia) out of the 11 countries in the Asian Network for Surveillance of Resistant Pathogens.The Final Say I nfluenza is real. and is one reason why in a 2001 study. almost always including a course of antibiotics. Deputy Health Minister Nguyen Thi Xuyen last year blamed increasing antimicrobial resistance on the widespread sale of antibiotics without a doctor’s prescription. authorities turn to newer. Most recently.” . said: “It is no exaggeration to say that drugs. especially antibiotics. Awareness At the top of the medical food chain. which in Vietnam means good business for the pharmacist.com THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL Antibiotics: More Curse than Cure Prescribing antibiotics when they shouldn’t be leads to bacteria developing resistance. a week off work. Nguyen Van Kinh. Words by Edward Dalton effectiveness. it goes one stage further. but was actually intended to treat a certain sexually transmitted infection.

In November last year. after asking for medicine to treat a child who had stayed at home. said her ministry would more vigorously enforce the regulations which oversee drug sales by pharmacies. But until the culture of seeing a doctor as a last resort changes. I spoke to a foreign doctor working at a private hospital in Hanoi. the Ministry of Health set up a committee for drug-resistance prevention. none knew it had happened at all. and aware but uncaring.000 pharmacists in the north of Vietnam. Luong Ngoc Khue. most pharmacies know what they are doing is wrong. Dr. No need to have a prescription. awareness among the general population is a combination of very low. so the only records they keep are to check how much money is being made. suggesting the main reason was that they would never be able to compete with other stores which don’t insist on prescriptions. 88% sold antibiotics without a prescription. improve the monitoring of antibiotic use and resistance. Unfortunately. who lamented the state of selling pharmaceuticals in Vietnam. despite a 63-province national relay and a huge social media campaign. Of the several dozen Vietnamese people I’ve asked about it. I can’t see any big improvements coming soon. In 2013. One Minister of Health.” Getting Proactive Some actions have been taken to try and reduce the abuse of antibiotics in Vietnam.000 for selling medicines not supported by prescriptions. and raise people’s awareness of using prescribed drugs. The solution needs to start from the ground up. “You simply tell me about the symptoms and I will sell medicine to you. and nurturing safe and rational drug use and infection control. Nguyen Thi Kim Tien.” one reporter was told. there needs to be stronger sanctions against rogue pharmacists. “A pharmacy is a business first. and in 2015 established a special unit to study the specific problem of antimicrobial resistance.000 to VND500. In 2014 an aide-memoire jointly agreed by several Vietnamese ministries. A pharmacist in Hanoi told Thanh Nien News that “almost no drugstore asks buyers for prescriptions”. but there also needs to be grass-roots education across all parts of society to ensure the wider public are aware of why this is an issue which can no longer be ignored. Current penalties range from VND200.com | November 2016 Word | 199 . This simple premise is the single biggest misunderstanding in Vietnamese medical habits” Moving down to more localised awareness. wordvietnam. A 2010 Ministry of Health survey found that out of 3. head of the Ministry of Health’s examination and treatment department. no patient data is recorded and pills are often dispensed in unmarked blister packaging. “Prescriptions are shopping lists. formed the basis of a national action plan to help raise awareness among health workers and the general public. Industry Insiders An investigation by Tuoi Tre found pharmacists in Ho Chi Minh City who would even sell antibiotics for a customer’s friend or relative.” he said.“Antibiotics serve no purpose other than in the treatment of bacterial infections. the World Health Organisation (WHO) conducted the first World Antibiotic Awareness Week. Certainly. added that the penalties for pharmacists flouting regulations were too mild to be a real deterrent.

This approach reinforces the idea that women are weak and in need of protection.The Final Say Ten10 Shoko Ishikawa is the country representative for UN Women in Vietnam. However. I love this contrast. How different is the lot of a Vietnamese woman in the countryside compared to the big city? What are the key issues? I have visited a few ethnic minority communities and have met women in extremely poor households. In what areas do you feel women need more representation in Vietnam? I would like to see more women making it big in fields that are male dominated like engineering. They are resilient. of all the women engaged in work only 25 percent of them are in formal employment that afford them any form of worker protection and entitlements. They symbolize a new generation of women leaders that could change the social perception of women. We made mistakes like keeping our windows open for air instead of using the air-conditioning and ended up fighting mould all over our furniture and clothes the year we arrived. It was the resourcefulness of women that was keeping the families together. in family and in community life on equal terms with men. It can be exhausting. I also dislike hearing comments that because women are physically weak they cannot do certain strenuous jobs. yet the growth of women leaders in the business world is extraordinary. how advanced is Vietnam in terms of gender equality? Vietnam is advanced when you look at indicators such as gender parity in primary education or the reduction in maternal deaths and women’s participation in work. PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA There are many things to celebrate about women in this country. what would it be? Women’s leadership in the political sphere is growing very slowly. but the reality is there are a number of barriers for women to participating in the economy. dangerous and “affect women’s reproduction and child raising duties”. There is a growing number of young women entrepreneurs leading technology start-ups. Here she gives her thoughts on gender equality and the lot of the Vietnamese woman When did you come to Vietnam? How easy or difficult has it been to settle into life here? I moved to Hanoi in May 2013. Everyone is competitive and trying to get ahead — like in the traffic. What do you like about living in Hanoi? The energy and tenacity of the people is amazing. For example. policies and programmes that have been created for gender equality. Do you agree or disagree with this? In a sense I do. The women I met in Binh Thuan had no cash income and showed me the leaves they pick to boil and eat with rice because the farm land their family was allotted is too far into the mountain to get to. what are your specific goals with regards to Vietnam? My goal is to reveal the different realities of women compared to men in Vietnam in terms of their social and economic status and life opportunities. science and technology. If there was one thing you could change in Vietnam. If there was one thing you could choose above all others. and those that hold the power are men. or perhaps because out of necessity to get things done. Vietnam’s women entrepreneurs now form about a quarter of all entrepreneurs and a 2013 study suggested 30 percent of board of director roles in Vietnam were held by women. Vietnam also tops the region in terms of the number of laws. Many regard Vietnamese women as being ‘tough’. higher than the global average of 19 percent. Compared to other countries in the region. . There is no country in the world where working for gender equality is easy as it challenges power relations and social norms based on different genders. perhaps because of the history of the country. It hasn’t been too difficult [to settle in] because you have almost everything available here. but also makes you feel alive. and support better policies that will help women and girls enjoy their full potential. How easy or difficult is it to achieve these goals? It is not easy. In terms of the UN. Then you step into the back streets of Tay Ho and it’s so quiet. what would it be and why? In Vietnam there are 38 jobs that women are banned from and 39 jobs that women who are pregnant or have children under the age of one cannot engage in by law because these are too strenuous. whether these laws and policies are working for women is another matter. We don’t do that any more. Many people say that men and women are given equal opportunities.

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Not For Sale .Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo .