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you guessed it. We promise! Getting close and personal on Au Co 90 / 24 Hour Cafes Where to sleep when you don’t wanna go home 96 / Mystery Diner Hanoi This month’s review: Panam’ 98 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: pho vit quay 100/ Mystery Diner HCMC Café-Restaurant is put through its paces 102 / The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon Vietnam’s answer to yes. 2016 58 54 78 THE TALK INSIDER 010 / Twenty Years Later 46 / Landing on Water 011 / The Big Five 54 / Ascending Long Bien Bridge Vietnam in 2036 April in Vietnam BRIEFINGS A trip to Halong Bay by seaplane The Urbex movement knows no bounds 12 / Cleaner Air 58 / In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word 14 / Nha San 78 / Arsenic and Old Lace 18 / The Renovation Generation 84 / Night and Day at the Flower Market 20 / Coffee on the Spin EAT & DRINK Being proactive with pollution Hanoi’s longest running arts collective Doi Moi and podcasts Who needs This month we turn 100 We’re not scaremongering. as the case may be 2 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the dosa 108 . anyway? 26 / Ironman Or Ironwoman.Contents Apr.


30 holiday 118 / 10 Destinations to Visit in Vietnam in 2016 Our alternative guide to travelling Vietnam 128 / Notes from Another City Entry 3: Danang 132 / The Motorbike Diaries 34 / Just In 154/ HCMC City Guide 156 / Day Tripper 176 / Amazing Grapes 178 / Know Your City 186 / A World of Good FINAL SAY From West Bengal to Zangoora 170 / Bar Stool HANOI 174 / Coffee Cup 38 / To-Do List 180 / Top Eats 1 A new destination for a professional sport 42 / Just In 184 / Top Eats 2 192/ Ten 10 134 / Hanoi City Guide 188 / City Map 4 | Word April 2016 | 190 / Kiteboard Goes to Phan Rang Our chief editor comes out of the woodwork . 2016 112 118 198 TRAVEL 138 / Day Tripper COLUMNS 106 / Bangkok in Squares 142 / Bar Stool 146 / The Therapist 144 / Coffee Cup 150 / Medical Buff 148 / Top Eats 158/ Business Buff 152 / City Map 160 / Body and Temple HCMC 28 / To-Do List 166 / The Gym Diaries A photo essay on the Thai capital 112 / The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh Now you know where to go for the Apr.Contents Apr.


5 x 27cm In tại Công ty Cổ phần In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng. JON ASPIN Staff Editor Probably the trip to Amanoi Resort in Ninh Thuan Province with the late great Kyle Phanroy for company as part of the Undiscovered Coast issue. Hoàn Kiế hai@wordvietnam. Shane Dillon. Quyết định xuất bản số: 185/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 22 tháng 03 năm 2016. Vietclimb’s Jean Verly. Nha San. The mines were blown up and we had to wear protective gear. Harry Hodge. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. Giấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 61-2016/ CXBIPH/32-01/ThG. LOL.CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us about the best moment during the time they’ve worked for Word TRUNG DEL Contributor For me? It’s definitely the time that I was interviewed for Many Faces of Vietnam by Ms. The Renovation Generation. Natalia Martinez. Bao Zoan. Heaven on ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam. JULIE VOLA Photographer One of the most fun I have had was for the Urban Explorer issue when I managed to sneak into a building’s abandoned rooftop cafe. Thanh Vu. Douglas Holwerda. OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.3841 – Fax: FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis. thegioipublishers. such a thrill. CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-2123-8 6 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.xavier@wordvietnam. Before I knew exactly what was going on. OWEN SALISBURY Contributor I’ve had a lot of good JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer hai@wordvietnam. Matt Dworzanczyk. Vy. It gave me a huge boost in confidence. 3. HCM. khổ 20. on a fashion shoot that I am really proud of. Dana McNairn and David Legard. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.000 cuốn. asking them questions. There’s a difference between knowing you can do it and actually accomplishing something. The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam. the best part wasn’t the five star luxury. at the same table as Ministers of Tourism from several countries in Southeast CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạ JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam. Linh Nguyen and Emily Dallara from Saigon Outcast. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 03 năm 2016. Ed Haysom. Huyen SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.Duong Huynh Advertising JSC © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C. Phuong Tieu CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN: TS. Cambodia treated me KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam. 1. to be honest. © Word .com Website: www. And then for that same issue I collaborated with one of my favourite people. Trần Đoàn Lâm Biên tập: Phạm Trần Long Thiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao Ross Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNH CÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thà NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam. Chris Humphrey. Funnily enough. Billy Gray. This was followed two days later by the ‘decommissioning’ of land mines at a separate site. Vincent Demailly from Coffee Spin. NICK ROSS Chief Editor There have been many. Q.3825.tranphuprint. some of which I cannot discuss. Dr. right on the former DMZ.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳ DISTRIBUTION TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers. In 15. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam. but swimming in crystal clear water with the locals just near the ‘floating’ seafood restaurant. Phường 4.3826. And then the next day sitting at the Ninth World Congress on one the most beautiful bays in the VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam. Phil Kelly. FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter One of my best working trips for Word was that time when I was sent to Kampot and Bokor in Cambodia to write about the place as a new travel tour For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Kieran Crowe. Hey Camel Ceramics. David JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam. but for me it was when I went to visit a mine clearance site in Quang Tri. Hà Nội Tel: 04. Fuji Pham. Brian McNaull. Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-2123-8 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO . The feeling was amazing. Don Website: www. Q. Emily Petsko. Jim Cawood. Getting the nod to become a staff writer felt good — but the best was probably the first time I got something in print. TP. I was in a VIP escort heading to Bokor mountain. Aron from BWT. Hai Au Seaplanes. Word is a registered CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.


we look forward to hearing from Air Pollution In response to the article on wordvietnam. ‘Saigon Air Pollution Now Very Unhealthy’ Interesting contrast with the US Consulate data… I wonder if its because the consulate is next to a big park. I’m sure Peter could have said a lot more — CB I’ve had people praise my Vietnamese when the reality is my comprehension has hanging on by a thread.C OM The THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook. So. which circumstances familiar to middle aged western males is he taking about. 11. and I still marvel at this feat. Yes. Running his own recruitment company for over a decade. but a little bit special: the people we meet. worked with us and read us from day one. this is another feat. A consequence is that more passengers are now using the hydrofoil. which is good news because weekdays it has been quite lightly loaded and we did not want the service to stop. Sometimes when I look back I wonder how we’ve managed to do it. France made me realise that somehow. a big word of thanks.000 pages.vietnam — or via Twitter. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts. determined to do something different.000 new vehicles per month × 12 mths = 324. — CL Learning Vietnamese The Language Beast (February. @wordvietnam. the places we go. 2016) Wonderful article.. Many others have worked with us for three. almost always achieved with a small team. Hardest thing I’ve ever tried to do. deadlines and stress. There is something about putting together a publication such as ours that is not just fun. Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so. — RC Hang on a minute. the stories we manage to unveil. including myself. Testament to that are the people who’ve worked with us. THANK YOU!!! — Nick Ross CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH.. Four.. — LI WTF — should we walk our kids to school?! — JH Approx. 12. Any new roads to be seen? Any bother on time saving? — TM This article needs to be translated into Vietnamese. com — we’re at your The pollution makes living here really unenjoyable for me sometimes. which was started in November 2009 and joined together with Word Ho Chi Minh City in July 2013.000 articles. but every month for over eight years. a final little word of and the charm has never shaken off its allure.Prelude 1 00 issues.. Korean. we couldn’t have done it without you. Bloody hard going — BC . 300 new cars plus 600 new bikes registered daily × 30 days = 27. Yet the magic has never lost its spell. put very nicely. we remain fresh. we have our issues — what business doesn’t? Yes we have our moments when the common vision no longer remains common to all.000 words and a helluva lot of late nights. have been there from the start. not just once. 4 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS W OR DV IE TN AM . Duong Vy Bao..? — PC This cryptic point also intrigued me — he implies it is something so common it doesn’t need explanation but I don’t have a clue — KP I was learning tones last night. In a fast-changing country known for its transience. Vu Ha Kim Vy and Mark Allan.200. putting our trumpets aside. Japanese. ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. despite the inexorable advance of time. Actually. — CE 8 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Word Ha Noi. French etc. reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam.000. 16. This has resulted in absolute chaos as the minibuses now stop the other side of the tunnel in District 2 where passengers are transferred to seven-seater cars for the ride into and from District 1. A recent conversation with a friend now living in Toulouse.. Add to this 44 issues of a separate publication. ready to move on. four or even five years. you could tell from his words and the lines on his face that he was tired.. To everyone who’s supported us. or that District 2 is closer to Bien Hoa — MF The 600 SUV’s that are delivering and picking up one child at the schools every day isn’t making it better. The Vung Tau Hydrofoil You may have seen in the news that minibuses from Vung Tau can no longer drop off and collecting passengers in District 1. | April 2016 Word | 9 .

and most importantly. reduce industrial emissions. Air Pollution A decline in air quality is an unfortunate by-product of rapid industrial development in any country.052 (VND46 million). Ho Chi Minh City receives an average of 6. they had all being living here for 20 years or more. As can be seen on a daily basis. Vietnam 2035. trees are known to improve urban air quality (the so-called ‘green lung’) and both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have numerous beautiful trees which can be preserved. Minister of Planning and Investment Bui Quang Vinh summed matters up: “Our country is at a turning point of reform and development. 10 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. The report recommends that Vietnam build modern and more transparent institutions — those steps will help the country meet its ambitious goals. We see these reforms as a continuation of the historic Doi Moi reform process and we believe current and future generations of Vietnamese people have the will.000 (VND156 million) a year based on modern-day prices. promote innovation and take advantage of increasing trade opportunities to enact broad structural reforms. At present the average annual income is US$2. But now the world is watching. Improvements in productivity. determination. GDP in Vietnam would need to grow at 7 percent per year. and traffic jams via their cell phones. as well as being affordable. Also. what can help Vietnam achieve its goal of upper middle-income status? Certainly the upcoming metro systems in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City can help ease congestion if they are well planned. To reach our goal of a becoming a prosperous. average local income which has risen almost 7% a year for a quarter of a century.17 hours of intense sunlight a day. If public transport is to be a success here. Where is this all leading? A new report published in February by the World Bank Group and the government of Vietnam tries to make sense of all this. These include a coordinated effort to decrease traffic volumes in the big cities. Vietnam’s cities have all the ingredients for a similar descent. is indicative of a problem that will not go away any time soon. raising the average annual income level to US$7. it recommends steps to help lift Vietnam to upper-middle-income status in two decades and suggests that Vietnam build a more competitive private sector. environmental protection and economic innovation can help Vietnam maintain high levels of growth. The report suggests several initiatives that might help Vietnam’s cities not end up with Beijing-style smog. The Powers That Be Vietnam’s authorities are fully aware of the challenges the country faces — Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung was instrumental in jointly creating the initiative that led to the Vietnam 2035 report. huge motorbike usage and ever-rising car ownership. courage and capacity to successfully implement these changes. plentiful construction projects. but also big challenges. Introducing an Intelligent Transport System (ITS) might alleviate the problem. all Vietnamese drivers carry cell phones.” World Bank Group President Jim Yong Kim noted: “In the last 30 years. ITS collects and correlates traffic data from CCTV and heat sensors dotted around the city. all of whom had one thing in common. “Without these reforms it will be hard for us to avoid falling into the middle income trap and lagging So. You only have to look at Bangkok. construction work. equal and democratic Vietnam. Will this rising powerhouse still be able to impress its spectators in 2036? Time will tell.” Vietnam has made impressive strides over the last 20 years. — Kieran Crowe . and switch to renewable energy. our only choice is to implement the reforms recommended by the Vietnam 2035 report. compared to Singapore and Bangkok. Yet even Singapore has found that they do not solve all problems — there are still status issues that cause many people to eschew public transport in favour of their own vehicles. and tries to create a road map for the country over the next 20 years. Jakarta or Manila to see what a lack of long-term vision allied to rapid development can do to a city. Rising Traffic Congestion Such foresight is vital. it will have to prove itself to be quicker and more efficient than private transport. limited infrastructure capacity (such as the Old Quarter in Hanoi). Entitled. the age of the internet. creative. and Vietnam is no different. the rise of the automobile. In terms of benchmarks for achieving this status. the near complete absence of multi-level car parks in Ho Chi Minh City. Everyone who has been here that long will be able to tell you that. Many more could be planted. rising from the ranks of the poorest countries. We face significant opportunities. so there is an opportunity for the government to provide subsidies for citizens who install solar panels on their homes. Vietnam has become one of the world’s great development success stories. especially if it can be acted upon. On the passive side. Already widely used in cities such as London and Stockholm.Talk Lead THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE Twenty Years Later A What will this country look like in two decades time? recent event organised by the British Business Group of Vietnam in Ho Chi Minh City gathered together a group of expats from various industries and careers. sending drivers real-time updates about accidents. These people have witnessed first-hand the enormous changes Vietnam has undergone since 1996. support smart urbanization.

April is the cruellest month. water festivals. we love to laugh. rumours of DJ Tiesto headlining the festival don’t seem to have materialized. public art and cleaning up Vietnam a c b Comedy Irish comic Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi and HCMC this month This year. Aidan Killian. the Hue festival. com or go to facebook. Apr.. The Chinchineros (CHI). 9 to 19 Manzi Art Space is taking the concept of public art into a new realm with their project. For more info. hotel deals were still available at places like La Residence (la-residencehue. As we went to print. But how long this will remain the case is yet to be seen. Songkran is being celebrated in Saigon… big time UK outfit Stealing Sheep will be one of the bands performing at the Hue Festival a) b) c) 1 HCMC and Hanoi Apr. Into Thin or turn to page 38 Songkran 3 HCMC.. we’ve got a vested interest here. big event. And remember. the Youth Dance Group of Sri Lanka. click on huefestival. In addition to hosting the cleanups the participating venues will be offering great discounts on food and drink to all those who register and participate. Into Thin Air is a unique and exciting project which should garner a lot of talk. jazz band the Michal Milczrek Trio from Poland and the Halleluya Dance Group from Israel. well. 17 4 As part of the Clean Up Vietnam day on Sunday. Crazy Monkey and Bui Cong Khanh. Ten site specific and contemporary artworks will move out of galleries and onto the streets over 10 days with the help of artists including Nguyen Manh Hung. Not that it matters — this is going to be a big. But hey. so buy tickets early or stay dry. Q3 Saturday. 6 and Apr. Unfortunately for EDM lovers. For more info click on saigonoutcast. turn to page 33 The Hue Festival 5 Hue Apr. Organised and curated by Manzi Art Space. fear death by water-fight. The lineup includes Stealing Sheep (UK). If you want to gain a better understanding of Vietnamese culture and how it is merging with the modern wordvietnam. Sam Thomas. The pair will be performing in both Hanoi and HCMC and will have support from local comedians. then the Songkran bash organised by Saigon Outcast at the Youth Cultural House might just be for you. 29 to May 4 Artists and musicians from well over 10 countries will be descending on the former imperial capital of Vietnam to celebrate the 9th Annual Hue Festival at the end of April. very funny. Apr. For more info click on facebook. we know. Supporting him will be upand-coming American gagster. some will be mobile installations while others are fixed in particular locations. To see a list of participating venues or to get involved. and at Word. This one will be very. 16 If you like waterfights and want the opportunity to celebrate the Thai New Year in the heart of Saigon. Apr. 7 Yes. then this is definitely one to pencil into your diary. check out our article on Songkran on page 24 Clean Up Vietnam Central Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne Sunday. turn to pages 30 and 38 Artworks on the Street 2 Central Hanoi Apr. the Clean Up team are working with bars and restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne who will be organising clean-ups around their areas over the course of that weekend. Last year’s Saigon-kran at Outcast was a runaway smash.Big5 The A laugh a minute.5 million a night. bluegrass outfit Della Mea. For more info on the festival. But get in there fast. There will also be prizes for people who collect the most rubbish. the Germein Sisters (AUS). 17. our shameless promotion of comedy in this rag is. | April 2016 Word | 11 .com/saigonoutcast. Also. This month the latest gags and indomitable stand-up is coming courtesy of Irish who are putting on a festival package running at VND3. Set up in 10 different Hanoi locations.

The International School of Ho Chi Minh City is one that does 12 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. I stop play outside. “We have this card system in three places in the school. need to be careful when they’re outdoors. which is dangerous.000 particles per litre. It means that everyone round the school knows where we are. such as asthma. Based on World Health Organisation (WHO) measurements. this level of air pollution is ‘unhealthy for sensitive groups’ — children and adults with breathing issues.Briefings HCMC Cleaner Air for Better Learning Few institutions in this country proactively deal with air pollution. At the moment the card displayed is amber. “We use three W e’re sat in Adrian Watts’ office overlooking the main building and play areas of his school.” he explains. Surveying his domain — he is the Head of the International School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) — he shows me the Air Quality Index (AQI) card system in his window. green and amber.000 and 150.” That Vietnam’s major cities face a growing battle with air pollution is now . red. but when it goes into the red zone. meaning that the air pollution has hit between 100. Green is considered safe.

ISHCMC has also recently added the system to their multi-purpose room. Using what is essentially a huge box with three filters.” he says. So.” More than Air Quality becoming documented.000 particles per litre”.flow around the school. it’s rare that anyone takes steps to minimize its impact. “The damage [from air pollution] is done hugely when kids are very young because they’re growing. where he shows me the air purification machines.” he says. the school has introduced standalone air purifying machines throughout their early years area right through to Grade 1. Clean air in the classroom is therefore critical to enabling students to perform to the best of their ability.” Adrian cites Mexico City as an example (until 20 years ago it was the most polluted city in the world) where back in the 1990s pollution was thought to cause 1. The pressure inside the school will be higher than the pressure outside. they create a healthier environment. indoor air pollution will be kept below “WHO levels — which is 35. Clean Air. As you get older you still absorb the particles.” Indeed. The air quality here is at around only 30. headaches and even nausea. with the horrific air quality problems in Beijing and Shanghai. “These systems do more than just purify the air.” says Adrian. On completion of ISHCMC’s new secondary campus close to Saigon Bridge in 2017.” he explains. However. the air will be purified at the point of entry. It’s become so bad that many “expat families have withdrawn from Beijing. it’s definitely something that multinationals consider now. visit ishcmc. instances of acute childhood leukaemia rose sharply as did respiratory disease in children aged one to four. | April 2016 Word | 13 . Indoors and Out Adrian’s initiative goes much further than just checking the outdoor air quality. “They take out all the spores and all the other things in the air like bacteria.000 hospitalizations a year. That is what Adrian Watts has done for ISHCMC.” He adds: “If I had a young child then ISHCMC would be my first school choice for them because having your child in clean air when they’re very young is essential. “It’s part of our mission to provide a healthy environment to energize our students. He adds: “In Beijing. but the impact on you growing is less. So. before it is allowed to We leave Adrian’s office and head to the Early Explorer and Kindergarten area. so when doors are opened. Outside the campus this number rises to 110. China faces a similar problem.000 deaths and 35.000 particles per litre.000 and the AQI cards are at amber. as Adrian explains. This way the minimum amount of pollutants will enter the building. We take a reading. studies have shown that bad indoor air quality at schools can result in poor concentration. I ask Adrian why the installation of air-purifying systems has so far focused on younger children. “So the absorption of the small particles into their bloodstream then gets pushed out into the rest of their bodies. mould and spores that create damp. “If the air’s not clear then it affects thinking and the children’s ability to enjoy their environment. Over the past 18 months. the new building will also have a purpose-built air filtration system to ensure that. the air will flow outwards rather than inwards. international companies now locate single people there or people with no children.” — Nick Ross To find out more about the International School Ho Chi Minh City. A Growing Concern As we begin to talk. which is used for drama and sport. During this period. Next year this will be extended to the rest of the primary or call (08) 3898 9100 wordvietnam. lethargy. says Adrian. as to how they strategically plan for the future.

it was an exploration of the way history is constructed by the media and those who control it. a younger generation of 14 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the first and longest-running artist-led non-profit in Vietnam. a member of Nha San and organiser of the annual Queer Forever Festival. exhibited a series of his photographs mounted on the glass . Since its beginning in 1998 as an experimental art space in a Muong ethnic minority house.Briefings PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL Hanoi Nha San Hanoi’s longest running art collective has some big plans N ha San Collective is no stranger to change. has big plans for 2016. and finally coming to rest on the 15th floor of Hanoi Creative City (for now). Moving from a space in Zone 9. to a studio on Ly Quoc Su. the group has been forced to adapt many times. this nomadic art artists rebooted the group with a series of guerrilla projects and international collaborations. Called Mise en Scene. A media mishap that drew attention from the authorities caused the collective to shut its doors in 2011. Nha San’s first exhibition of the year opened on Mar. but two years later. Nguyen Quoc Thanh. 25.

Nha San’s projects are pivotal for exposing young Vietnamese artists to the international art world’s critical thought processes. — Jesse Meadows For more information on Nha San click on facebook. but we want to ask people what kind of visibility they want for themselves. and Red. Such an intangible sense of the Central Highlands’ red basalt soil. Hai Ba Trung. and why?” says Thanh. Last year. Erin’s workshops will focus on using technology to tell the personal stories of queer artists. beginning this Autumn. I’m out and about’. a three-channel video installation on rubber plantations in central and southern Vietnam. the third instalment of Skylines with Flying People. “We just want to try to know the practice of other people. I wandered through rubber woods surrounded with unnamed graves. Hanoi-based conceptual artist Nguyen Phuong Linh has begun work on a project titled | April 2016 Word | 15 . and ghostly stories of dead workers. juxtaposing his images against Hanoi’s skyline. Hanoi wordvietnam. soldiers. Mise en Scene windows of the group’s 15th floor gallery space. Japanese artist and founder of the Nippon International Performance Art Festival. 1 Luong Yen. Nguyen Quoc Thanh says the project is important for challenging the conventional “out-and-proud” narrative: “It’s [always] ‘Here I am. the five-day event brought Seiji Shimoda. to give talks and workshops to local artists. Nha San is making sure that Vietnam’s contemporary art scene does not get left behind. culminating in an exhibition of 12 Vietnamese artists from across the country. agrestic smell. [like] what does it mean. Focused on inspiring “new ways of thinking and doing”. the project will feature workshops and talks from September to December. But this exchange is not limited to artists at Nha San. has fascinated my curiosity.” Rates of Exchange Arts Incubator’s spirit of international exchange echoes throughout the rest of the annual in:ACT performance art festival set for this summer. this is my place. Supported by American Arts Incubator. a programme that facilitates exchange between overseas artists and underserved communities. the collective will welcome Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien to conduct a series of workshops with LGBTQ-identified artists. culminating in an exhibition on Apr. shining moon. “One evening two years ago. and ask a lot of questions. as well as Western foreigners during the French colony and later the American war. In a country where university arts programmes mostly focus on technique and skill. 22. While the rest of the country rushes the global stage. will give creatives an opportunity to learn from visiting academics and researchers in social or head to their studios on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative City. This month. hazy darkness.” Linh writes in her research.IMAGE PROVIDED BY NHA SAN COLLECTIVE Images of Nha San’s first exhibition of the year. For Skylines. by creating holographic videos that can be downloaded from the internet and projected via iPhone or tablet. White.

learnt this new art and “found a new way of self-expression after many years”. This would result in a perfect way to reveal his roots by imprinting the influences and traditions of his home region on his work.Briefings HCMC Hey Camel Ceramics From The Canary Islands to Saigon A t the end of an alley in District 3 you will come across Hey Camel Ceramics. “When I was 17 I decided to join 16 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the ideas that run through my mind. Spain. From a Remote Archipelago to Vietnam Born in the Canary Islands. In there you will find stylishly designed pottery and you will have the chance to dig your hands into clay and. and with no room left at his house to store them. who knows. “I really like to show other people my vision. he decided to start Hey Camel Ceramics. Inside. Leandro Marcelino. “I want to offer the opportunity to my customers to feel a special connection with the arts school and learn photography. shelves and a table cover the space where plants. together with good reactions from customers in artisan markets. and even old town-style little Saigon houses — perfect to get as a beautiful souvenir and provide your home with a bit of creativity — are exposed with delicacy as artwork waiting to be admired. We spent a morning getting to know the founder and creative director. a peaceful room. mugs and plates rest. become an artist.” he explains.” explains .” A few years ago he moved to Vietnam where he joined a ceramics studio. By accumulating pieces. and also have a meaningful theme related to local culture. Leandro developed an early passion for art which led to him becoming a ceramic artist. The Rising of the Pot Camouflaged in a corridor of walls covered with colourful plants and flowers. the facade of this studio imposes its own harmony with elegance and style.

— Natalia Martinez Hey Camel Ceramics is at 116/19A Tran Quoc Toan. or a bowl for your pho. “The camels therefore represent an important link between the cultural exchange that takes place between the traders. he offers classes for VND450. I like to think that my brand is a celebration of different cultural influences. let your creativity flow and head back home with a few cool cups to drink your tra da from. HCMC and opens from 11am to 5pm wordvietnam. During the weekends. which is constantly growing — he just designed some cool handbags with drawings of his work and another of his passions. And if you have any time left.” Looking at his work. “The name of Hey Camel Ceramics was inspired by my roots and where I come from. I also get inspired by many symbols of religious objects. The Canary Islands have long been a home to camels. cacti — you might wonder where he gets his inspirations from. Likewise. Leandro never stops. Q3. run by Adina | April 2016 Word | 17 . Leandro has more to offer. another creative space. where they have served an important role in the transport of wares for trading merchants in the past. The back of his studio is set aside for workshops where he teaches pottery. he has also been involved in projects such as the recent collaboration with designer Paloma Wool from Spain. the cobalt blue of their ceramics.” However.000 which include all the materials necessary to give shape to whatever you might have in mind.PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER Leandro. etc. the creamy colours of the walls. and expects many more ventures in the future. So come over. check the upstairs floor — Hey Camel Bazaar is also the home of Saigon Leather Workshop. every little corner of a town. “Every trip I make. such as incense holders. offering wares.

com .Briefings Hanoi 18 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.

and want to be in a rock band. New Stories That chunk consists of young artists. the questions we asked were a lot more serious. and suddenly we were like. I think that was the most interesting bit.” Fabiola explains. over tea at a cafe on West Lake.” adds Fabiola. a new podcast spotlighting 30 Vietnamese characters under the age of 30. a portable recorder and a laptop — the team’s mobile studio. Duong Bui. Eliza now posts regular notes on their website to give listeners behind-the-scenes insight to their process. or renovation.” An Alternative Viewpoint As 2016 marks the 30th anniversary of Doi Moi. it’s a second chance to see her again.The Renovation Generation A podcast project is documenting the lives of young people born after Doi Moi “Y ou don’t always have to look outside for interesting stories. “This is a completed episode. “I think the problem is that often because there is relatively little coverage. the team has set a goal to make 30 episodes this year. they refine their style.” — Jesse Meadows Check out the podcasts at therenovationgeneration. I know my | April 2016 Word | 19 .” New Era.” says Fabiola Buchele. or artist Nguyen Hoang Giang’s struggle to make his father understand his work. accented by music. who produced documentaries and radio shows in London before moving to Vietnam three years ago. it’s just her bones!” Eliza laughed. It’s not just the bones. one in their makeshift home studio and one in the field “to give it some colour. three of the women behind the Renovation Generation. frontwoman for the metal band Windrunner. “It’s very important to us that we’re not bashing the same drum. but what about the people who live in the same bedroom as their brothers and mum and dad. like that of journalist Vu Hong Linh. showing me a screen full of wavelengths in greens and blues. and it’s a chunk that doesn’t get a lot of attention and is often kind of swept under the rug. “They’re sonic portraits. Eliza Lomas and Maia Do. On the table between us sat a pair of headphones. “We’re trying to show the Vietnam that we live in. and then she was telling us about dreaming of Benedict Cumberbatch. “When we started. yeah. “[The interview] with Uyen the other day. “She did mention that she got to meet her grandmother again. policy went into effect in 1986. and that we know… we’ve taken this chunk out of the reality that exists. It takes them about two hours to interview their subject. even told a tale about digging up her grandmother’s bones. using a duvet hung on the wall to help the quality of their recordings. I’d met up with wordvietnam. opening the country to economic integration and creating a whole new era for the struggling nation. and we were taking advantage of the sun. and entrepreneurs born after Vietnam’s Doi Moi. only to miss Vietnam so terribly that she decided to move back. who talks about her experience moving away to Denmark. She was just like. finally some narratives which I can relate to!’ All the media I hear about is American kids or English kids. She was being so serious about spirituality. Some of my Vietnamese friends say ‘Oh.” explains Eliza. What sets this show apart is the alternative view it adds to the Western media’s typical narratives about Vietnam.” added Maia. they end up making incredibly broad statements. With every new instalment. sound effects and careful narration. musicians. These two hours are then condensed into 10 minutes of engaging real-life stories. that was my favourite so far. it wasn’t scary. It began as something of an experiment. Stories abound. “She said it in a way that I wasn’t expecting. recording interviews with their friends in Fabiola’s flat. why don’t we have a bit of fun?” says Fabiola. It was a rare warm afternoon in Hanoi’s otherwise gloomy winter. “Some of the feedback we’ve had from the show has been so nice.” says Fabiola. but have to pursue a finance degree?” says Eliza.

” Vincent says. Basically. it no longer makes you giggle quite as much. “We’ve been meeting a lot of people. Friends on the Street It’s an idea he’s had in his head for several years. roasted in Saigon and ground every morning at Vincent’s home and on-site. and presenting it in a way that people feel connected to. “and by being here I think we’re teaching people that good coffee. and I think even as people become more able to afford to eat indoors. it starts to take something truly out of the ordinary to make you pay attention. For him. Phuong and another partner Quynh source all their beans from Dalat. mostly along Xuan Thuy in Thao Dien.Briefings Coffee on the Spin Bikes and coffee have gone hand in hand for years. he is finally on the ground living his idea. where they are. “For sure we would like to spread the idea of making ecological and clean coffee. and with the smiles and love they’ve been getting from people every day.” Vincent. like middle-aged women getting about in their pyjamas after 3pm.30am opposite North End Deli on Xuan Thuy.” Vincent says. quality bicycles and motorbikes. reasonably priced the culture of eating and drinking with friends on the interesting yet traditional way. Coffee Spin or Spin Coffee. it’s been about combining his love of good design and good coffee. Now. and a lot of people like that. We don’t need fuel or electricity to make good coffee. but after a certain amount of time. they’re considering expanding the fleet. You can find them most mornings from 7. it’s remained just that. The well-dressed foreigner in question is Frenchman Vincent Demailly. He. head to their page facebook. An industrial designer with a love of custom. Q2. and while he considers this model a prototype. with Phuong and Quynh very much at the heart. Simply Good The Marseilles native says that coffee is a simple product that people appreciate when made well. without having to go into any one of an increasing number of chain stores. District 7 and District 1 — why not? “But what I think is very important is the idea that we are preserving what people like in this country. The beans are brought to Saigon by the plantation owner himself. have been trading in locally produced and hand-pressed coffee from their mobile café emporium. offering good quality. he designed the vintage-looking trike himself. HCMC . it’s been getting its fair share of attention. It’s one step forward with a definite nod to the past. so by offering it to them outside. since he started hearing all the bad press about the local street coffee. Now. if you’re a long-termer. not the poor-quality chemical stuff you usually buy on the street. doesn’t have to be too much more expensive either. And they’ve quickly discovered that the locals’ thirst for the bean is far from sated. You’re never not aware that it’s going on. Coffee Spin retains a personal. It’s also a more ecological product. which is what I did when I witnessed the recent sight of a well-dressed foreigner making ca phe sua da from a bicycle-cum-coffee shop on the side of a road in District 2. Phuong and Quynh will be each day. has been causing a small stir. But without a Vietnamese partner. is something that people can relate to.” — Jon Aspin To find out where Vincent. human touch. Vincent explained to me that bringing coffee back to the street in such an 20 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. “Soon I think we will have more bikes like this in District 3. along with his business partner Truong Que Phuong. a French lover of them both is making it his business PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY HCMC T here are lots of things you stop noticing after a while here in Vietnam. Lining Up Since the beginning of March. it’s something Vietnam needs to hang on to. entering what many might have thought to be a saturated market. | April 2016 Word | 21 .

Briefings National PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY 22 | Word April 2016 | .

In 2016. We call it putting yourself in harm’s way. but that doesn’t mean she expects it to be easy. and are given a ration of water and a tent to sleep in at | April 2016 Word | 23 . This is where last year she became the first Vietnamese woman to finish.” she began.” As for the Why?.Redefining the Impossible Thanh Vu is preparing to run 1. Thanh has everything going for her. “This is really hard… I’d like to think I’m tough and I’ve done the mileage and the terrain training. travelled the globe and achieved her goal of being the first Southeast Asian woman to complete all four. A skim through her blog from last year’s Atacama Crossing gives an insight into just how tough she found it. but most of all to prove to the world that her generation of women.” — Thanh Vu. The feat involves finishing four of the world’s toughest ultramarathons in one calendar year. Finally. whoever designs the course knows how to push your mind and body to the limit. While Thanh is not new to extreme physical endurance — she’s already a seasoned tri-athlete and marathon runner — she’ll start what she describes as her “ultimate challenge” in the dry heat of the Sahara on May 1. by the end of the year Thanh will have endured 1. at every single step. Comprising six gruelling stages each. she will then travel to China in June to take on the Gobi. and if that doesn’t blow your mind. and the first Southeast Asian female. I’m grateful to have the opportunity to chase my impossible dream. I will do whatever it the 25-yearold is trying to become the ninth woman. walk. Home to the largest sand dunes anywhere. driest. Blending long-distance interval running with The Bike Shop’s David Greenfield and hardcore PT workouts with California Gym’s Master trainer Al Morgan. the Saharan course will feature some of the most stunning. and follow the 4 Deserts Series at 4deserts. but brutal landscapes in Africa. Tu Sach Cao Vong (Rainbow Bookcase).000km of ultra-running. But Why? Interrupting her intense training last month (you don’t just turn up to these torture tests) I had to ask her that very obvious question. and described the experience as like “going to the moon and back”. October 2015 Learn more about Thanh Vu’s epic journey into history on her YouTube channel or on Facebook. can go past any limitations put on them by history. After this she’ll get a much-needed rest before resuming her assault on history in October in the Atacama Desert in Chile. Thanh Vu is about to attempt something that actually is quite phenomenal. racers must have completed at least two of the other three challenges — as if doing those gives you the base level of insanity required. with scenery including the spectacular but dangerous Tianshan Mountains. along with why she was dedicating a year of her life to something so hard. Far from it. nothing will.000km in some of the toughest conditions on earth I n a world where the word ‘epic’ gets thrown around too easily. If successful. Each one is a self-sustaining. go to tusachcaovong. Run. “but thanks to the support I’m getting. but my God. To donate to Thanh’s charity Rainbow Bookcase. crawl. the courses take in some of the — Jon Aspin wordvietnam. gone through several pairs of shoes. Organisers call it ‘The Last Desert’. to complete the 4 Deserts ultra-running ‘Grand Slam’. Thanh wants to create history to raise awareness for her chosen charity. 250km slog through mostly uninhabited deserts. Once she gets through those. Competitors must provide and carry with them all of their own food. and how she felt about the first event just over a month away. the series will culminate in Antarctica at the end of November. the ‘Grand Slam’. and Vietnamese women especially. But I promise I won’t give up as long as I can still move my limbs. “I’m freaking out. gear and clothing. windiest and coldest places on earth. and the mental fortitude wrapped up in this five-foot-nothing package. To even start this final event.

Briefings HCMC Songkran Thailand’s water festival returns to Saigon I t may seem odd to celebrate the Thai New Year. Adds Linh: “Beverages will range from healthy juices to the confidence boosting Mai ‘Thai’.” he says. on Saturday. “A major part of Vietnamese culture is borrowed from the Chinese. Tickets on the cost or go to facebook. or as Linh describes it. “No bikinis are allowed — after all this is a family and cultural Starchild and Maraphobia. So why not enjoy and celebrate the best of both cultures?” A Downpour Moving venues means attracting a wider audience than in previous years. as this is likely to be the largest water festival ever held in Vietnam. Q3. But as Linh Nguyen from Saigon Outcast has discovered after holding Songkran events for the past two years.” Let the skies open and the Red Sea part. However. You’re not about to get wet.500 people tried to get in the door of Outcast for Songkran. “a huge water fight minus the Thai boxing. the festival will be more than just water guns and buckets filled to the brim with liquid. Tickets are available at Saigon Outcast. Cherushi Die the Russian violinist and rap outfit.000-capacity venue had to turn people away. Already on board are Cheesy Gangstaz. you’re about to get So much so that last year 3. “But we also have a strong Thai-Khmer heritage. Early bird tickets are VND130. Waterproof phone covers and a spare change of clothes are also recommended. it’s an event that everyone just seems to love. Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach. which meant the 1.000 and kids go for . Fortunately.” says Linh. Apr. HCMC Last year's Songkran at Saigon Outcast 24 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.000. just a stone’s throw away from Notre Dame Cathedral and next door to Diamond Plaza. Additional acts will be announced closer to the date.” A wide range of vendors will be on site selling anything from Thai cuisine to Mexican in an attempt to “maintain our warriors’ endurance”. “Everyone should come in shorts and tees.000. while Crazy Monkey is designing the Thai theme. in Ho Chi Minh City. For more info click on saigonoutcast. Get Wet. 16 Outcast will be hosting this year’s festival. or the Youth Cultural House on Pham Ngoc Thach. As a result. with general admission costing VND260. 95 Generation.000. especially as the honour is unlikely to be reciprocated in Thailand.” There will also be live music and DJs taking the stage to provide the tunes. water. especially as the capacity of the Youth Cultural House is 4. at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien. for anyone with a passion for getting wet. Zen and elephant visuals for the event. Songkran. deciBel and online at ticketbox. Linh adds a few words of advice.


” she said. “Starting learning to swim in a kid. with her team finishing third overall. you pretty much assume no sport is beyond her. the result was pretty bad because I could not do freestyle swimming. My times are quite good despite the fact that I’m only a beginner in this field. a two-loop 90km bike course that takes them along Danang’s coastline and a final 21km out-and-back run course which is flat and passes by many of Danang’s beach resorts before finishing at the foot of the Marble Mountains. With two months left to the race. she took part in a mixed relay for the Ironman in the running leg. Especially when you’re learning to swim.Sports Digest Ironman (or Ironwoman) Getting ready for a triathlon is no small feat. A personal trainer in Ho Chi Minh City. “Running is my strength but I have started cycling. I do not like triathlons because I’ve been afraid of swimming since I was 26 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the lean and toned Phuong admits that even for her. I switched to breaststroke.9km ocean swim. the upcoming Ironman Triathlon in Danang remains a daunting undertaking. “I like to tackle challenges where most people would not. Photos Francis Xavier W hen you meet Phuong Tieu Nguyen in person.” she told Word as she prepares for the second running of the event on May 8. as Harry Hodge learns.” Participants must complete a 1. “In reality.” Her preparation is impressive. running 10km each morning . Last year.

” she said. It helps she is at the gym three hours a day for six days a week as a master trainer for California Fitness. NBA.” Vietnam ended their journey in the AFC Women’s Olympic Football Tournament Rio 2016 qualifiers in Japan with a forgettable winless run last month. Thien’s win was a bit of an upset as most people had predicted a loss for Vietnam. 19. her response was straightforward. NBA Vietnam All-Stars and then play overseas in Southeast Asia later in the year. but the elevated spirits still failed to help them find a victory. NBA National Training Camp in Ho Chi Minh City from Jun. The Vietnamese women had a fun time celebrating International Women’s Day the day before the game. which was hit by a heavy downpour in Osaka. has returned to Vietnam for the third consecutive year beginning last month. 17 to Jun. Vietnam Notches Surprise Tennis Win over Indonesia Nguyen Hoang Thien defeated Aditya Hari Sasongko on Sunday to secure Vietnam’s 3-2 victory over Indonesia at a 2016 Davis Cup Asia/Oceania Zone Group II match in Surakarta last month.” she said. to secure their first-ever victory at the | April 2016 Word | 27 . as one of the top-ranked female runners under 50 in the country at various distances. following two draws and two losses in the previous games.000. who had never won a World Cup medal before. On a normal day she is up at 2.30pm. 17. The expanded programme will reach more than 200 schools in Vietnam with clinics in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. 9. and I love the feeling of winning. Thanh. The National Training Camp will once again be attended by an NBA legend or current player and feature an NBA Cares community outreach event. where the top 40 boys and top 24 girls aged between 10 and 14 will be chosen to participate in the Jr. Vietnam Routed in Olympic Qualifiers in Osaka at eve vietnam word wordvietnam. She is also proving there is indeed life after 40. the Vietnam Tennis Federation has awarded the team US$10. Thailand last month. The programme will culminate with the selection of 10 boys and five girls. another Vietnamese player Hoang Xuan Vinh won the men’s 10m air pistol bronze medal. especially after Ly Hoang Nam quit another singles match earlier on the same day due to muscle cramp.30am to start training and in bed by 7. When asked why she takes on so many races. She is also lining up the Standard Chartered Marathon in Singapore for December and racing in Thailand next year. eyeing the Sapa Ultra Marathon in October. In the next round. As a result of the victory. Earlier. the NBA’s global youth development programme that promotes basketball participation and an active lifestyle among children. “I am giving myself a target that I’ll participate in all international races in Vietnam. “That’s why I love racing. who will be named as 2016 Jr. “I really enjoy running. when they lost their last match against South Korea. according to Vietnam News. and is looking to add to her accolades.500 boys and girls. according to Vietnam News. biking 60km one day a week and swimming 6km throughout the week. Vietnam left the event with zero points and 18 goals against after five straight defeats. finished third in the men’s 25m rapid fire pistol event. following their success at the 51st ISSF World Championships in Spain. Vietnam now have two shooters — Vinh and Tran Quoc Cuong — who will compete in the 2016 Olympic Games in Brazil this summer. The programme will run through to June 2016 and engage more than 4. Thailand will host Vietnam and Chinese Taipei will play the Philippines from Jul. A series of school clinics will be conducted leading up to the selection camp on Apr. Young Ballers Show Their Stuff Jr. 15 to Jul. South Korea scored twice in each half of the match. s date p u d r Sen out you p or ab g grou @ in ry sportnt to har .Vietnamese Shooter Takes Bronze in Thailand Vietnamese shooter Ha Minh Thanh won a bronze medal at the ISSF Rifle and Pistol World Cup in Bangkok. 30.

ToDo 1 list HCMC Exhibitions. 7 Anyone who went to the Magners International Comedy Festival last month will know what a feast of comedy we were treated with. Clean Up Vietnam. Each camp runs for one week. and you’d like them to look after their or call 0907 729846. His second trip to Saigon. Q1 Ongoing through Thursday. Q2 and S24-1 Le Van Thiem. Described by Chortle as a “Wonderful story teller” and a comedian giving a “Master class in satire. Q1. 25 and runs until Apr. English-fluent instructors take them off your hands every day from 9am to 12pm. such as the price or about May’s upcoming Doing Chores camp. To learn more. This particular series was inspired by a volunteer effort to teach art to children in the Ha Giang Highlands. This year he has already taken the stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe and Adelaide Comedy Festival in 21. 5. Also on the roster will be awardwinning local comic. who will be returning to Vietnam for the umpteenth time. . VinSpace has locations at 6 Le Van Mien. Westcoast’s annual Smiles Art Contest runs until May 13 3. anyway? 6. Diana Bailey. from Monday to Friday. kids get to do art and not be hurled into outer space! 28 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Q1 Wednesday. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 165 Calmette. email info@vin-space. HCMC VinSpace: Spring Camp VinSpace. 22 If your little ones are underfoot — why aren’t they in school? — then take them to Spring Camp! While perhaps not as exciting as a Space Camp. the Irish gagster is known for his intelligent. Saigon International Comedy is back for more with a show headlined by Irish stand-up Aidan Killian. Apr. 21 Craig Thomas Gallery is exhibiting a new series of works by Hanoibased artist Nguyen The Hung.” he will be supported by up and coming American comic. Time to get your kids arty at Vinspace 2. Songkran and a beer festival. Spin FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival and gigs at some of the largest comedy festivals on this planet. this could be the perfect thing to inspire your kids in the run up to the end of the school year. Sam Thomas. A work from the latest exhibition by Nguyen The Hung 1. This is his fourth solo exhibition with Craig Thomas Gallery since he graduated from the Hanoi Fine Arts University in 2009. 4FM. In the second you’ll get a chance to work with clay The Belgian Beer Festival is returning this month. Q2 and D7 Ongoing through Friday. visit the gallery online at craigthomas. To find out more go to westcoastinternational. Q7 Smiles Art Contest Westcoast International Dental Clinic. Apr. and let the qualified. and confirmed on his schedule is the Glastonbury Festival in the UK and his sixth one-man show at the Edinburgh Fringe. this one’s definitely for you. 4. impassioned and hilarious rants that have led to appearances on BBC Newsnight. Comedy. Nguyen The Hung draws much of his inspiration from the ethnic minority peoples of his native Tuyen Quang Province. Apr. Not wanting to let the laughter die or the momentum fall flat on its faltering face. The exhibition of mixed-media paintings opened on Mar. Q1 Until May 13 If your children have been bitten by the art bug. Aussie Rules. RTE. To learn more. Who needs wine. a Playstation 4 or a Digital camera for any dental artwork involving a Superhero theme! Run and organised by Westcoast International Dental Clinic as part of May’s dental health month. Get them involved in this years’ Smiles Art Contest where they can win an Ipad Air 3 Have your kids do something creative in the real in-the-community A Night with Aidan Killian Game On. 98 FM. Craig Thomas Gallery. April’s got a lot in store for this city 2 Morning In the Mountains Irish comic Aidan Killian is back in Saigon for a second time Canvas and Wine has two outings this month.

or you missed your chance to bend light itself to frivolous and possibly even artistic purposes. the Festival will feature 50 types of Belgian beer. Q2 Apr. Tame one of the fundamental forces of the universe with nothing more than wood. HCMC and doors are at 8pm.000 and are wordvietnam. Q1. Belgian food. email nick@ saigoninternationalcomedy. Groups of four get 15% off.4 6 5 PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY Australian gagster Kieran Michaels. 15 Get ivre (or bezopen. it’s time to show your bust. Chimay and Duvel. Q4 Friday. and learn how to play God as you shape lumps of clay into the likenesses of people. Santé! Tickets cost VND300.30pm to 9pm. For bookings and info.000 and includes a complimentary Magners Irish canvas-and-wine or call 0907 729846 Belgian Beer Festival Cargo Bar. fabric and moxie… for art’s sake. visit vin-space. Tickets cost Canvas and Wine VinSpace Art Studio. 7.000 and include all materials and two glasses of wine. Apr. To learn more. On Thursday. si vous préférez) in classy Eurostyle when the Belgian Beer Festival carouses through Ho Chi Minh City. and teachers get 20% off. Apr. Chugging along from 6. Lutosa. of course — get to grips with a truly timeless medium.30pm onward. Let’s hope you’re reading this online. a DJ and a lucky draw. Canvas and Wine events run from 6. Game on is at 115 Ho Tung | April 2016 Word | 29 . Apr. or any other beer brewed by robe-wearing monks in misty Belgian woods. Entrance is VND200. Your clay bust. 21 On Thursday. 7 and Apr. Block off the ides of April now if you love Leffe. wire. and taking on the role of MC will be American stand-up Brian Armstrong. it’s time to make Light Sculptures. 21.

list HCMC



Product of Australia. Alcohol content: 12.5%

available at
Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh,


The Thai New Year, Songkran, is about to be celebrated in Saigon. Expect lots ‘n lots of water

Konstantin Giegling will be spinning at the Observatory this month

Time to give Vietnam a bit of a clean up



The Taste of Australia is coming to Saigon between Apr. 15 and Apr. 24



Thrash metal band Onslaught are-a-comin’ to Saigon


Saigon Ranger, Q1
Friday, Apr. 15
Onslaught — or rather, ONSLAUGHT!
*$%& YEAH! — are coming to Saigon
to play their legendary album, The
Force, in full to celebrate their 30th
anniversary. Thrash Productions,
Viet Thuong Music and Red Rock are
proud to present this unique event:
the first-ever visit to Vietnam by this
international thrash metal band.
The veteran outfit was formed in
1983 in Bristol, England by guitarist
Nige Rockett and drummer Steve
Grice. Since then, they have released
a veritable onslaught of albums
and rocked faces on the road with
metal heroes such as Anthrax and
Tickets cost VND300,000 and can
be purchased through Ticketbox or by
contacting vthrashproductions@gmail.
com. The show starts at 8pm… if you’re
metal enough. Saigon Ranger is at 5/7
Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC

Taste of Australia
Central Ho Chi Minh City
Apr. 15 to Apr. 24
Taste of Australia is a Vietnam-wide

30 | Word April 2016 |

celebration of Australian food,
beverage and cuisine, with exciting
events being run across Hanoi,
Ho Chi Minh City and Central
Vietnam. Experience Australian
cuisine, high-quality Australian
produce, and full-bodied Australian
wines through retail and restaurant
promotions, feature dinners, wine
tastings, supper club events, culinary
competitions and more.
At present, Mekong Merchant,
Le Meridien and Caravelle Saigon
have arranged their events and
promotions, with a lot more venues
to come. Simply check the website
for info.
To book your Taste of Australia
experience or get details please see and facebook.

The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, Apr. 16
If underground dance music is
your thing, The Observatory has a
treat in store: German record label
Giegling is coming to town to drop
crazy beats mit Autorität. So prepare
to lawfully and efficiently get your
groove on. Two of the cutting-edge
underground label’s founders will
be spinning, mixing and — dare I
hope? — beatboxing (but not really)
all night long.

Doors open at 10pm. Tickets
are free before 11pm and cost
VND150,000 after.
To learn more, visit The Observatory
or Giegling on Facebook. You can also
check out, but they’re too
cool to have a regular website with
actual information. The Observatory is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Youth Cultural House, Q3
Saturday, Apr. 16
Thai water festival Songkran is being
organised for the second time by
Saigon Outcast, but this time, thanks
to last year’s craziness, they’re
moving the party to the Nha Van
Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural
House) in District 3.
Come armed to the teeth or
buy water guns, water balloons
and coloured powders, and
dispatch your fellow attendees to
a soundtrack provided by top local
and international DJs.
If dancing and waterfights don’t
spark your imagination, then ride the
slip n’ slide or go nuts in the bouncy
castle. If none of that sounds like fun,
your inner child went missing.
Last year’s Saigon-kran was a
runaway smash, so buy tickets early
or stay dry. And remember, April is
the cruellest month... fear death by


For more info click on saigonoutcast.
com or go to
Early bird tickets are VND130,000, with
general admission costing VND260,000.
Tickets on the cost VND360,000 and
kids go for free. Tickets are available at
Saigon Outcast, deciBel and online at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien
is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC.
You can also check out our article on
Songkran on page 24

Clean Up Vietnam
Central Ho Chi Minh City and Mui
Sunday, Apr. 17
As part of the Clean Up Vietnam

day on Sunday Apr. 17, the team are
working with bars and restaurants
in town (and Mui Ne) who will
be organising clean-ups around
their locales over the course of that
In addition to hosting the clean-ups
they will be offering great discounts
on food and drink to all those who
register and participate. There will
also be prizes for people who collect
the most rubbish. Clean Up Vietnam
will be providing waste bags and
gloves for the clean-up events, as
well as giveaways and prizes for
participants. They will also help with
the disposal of all rubbish collected.
Participating bars and restaurants

include — Pitchers, Shrine, Tavern,
Tippy’s, Emergency Room, Chuck’s,
Quan Ut Ut, Chickeez, La Fiesta, La
Fenetre Soleil, Pasteur Street Brew
House, Con Bo Map, Little Kingston
Reggae Bar Mui Ne, and Soul
Clean Up Vietnam want to raise
awareness of their initiative in it’s
first year so that next year there
will be a greater number of people
willing to get involved.
For more info, contact Scott
Alderson from Clean Up Vietnam via or on director@ Alternatively, get
in touch Peter Cornish on Facebook via | April 2016 Word | 31

list HCMC

Dragonfly Theatre’s latest production, an adaptation of Roald Dahl’s novel, George’s Marvellous Medicine

The Inspiring Women series of workshops returns in May

Bizet’s Carmen will be performed at the HCMC Opera House in early July



Flower power. Well, maybe not. ND Baumecker plays Observatory on Apr. 23



Yo, dude! It’s Pablo Valentino




Pablo Valentino

2016 ANZAC Friendship Match

The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Apr. 22

Lord Mayor’s Oval, Vung Tau
Saturday, Apr. 23

DJ. Producer. Visionary. Sorcerer.
Pablo Valentino is coming to Ho
Chi Minh City to weave his unique,
nearly-unclassifiable brand of sonic
wizardry. Get ready, get set, get
yourself to the Observatory to see
Mr. Valentino do it his way.
Doors open at 10pm. Tickets
are free before 11pm and cost
VND150,000 after.
To learn more, visit The
Observatory on Facebook or ask
the coolest person you know. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC

The Vietnam Swans’ annual ANZAC
Friendship Match returns to Vung
Tau on Apr. 23. The Swans will host
the Jakarta Bintangs in the seventh
installment of this match, which sees
Vietnam play different teams from
around the Asian region in an AFL
game on the very ground where
Australian troops played football
during the American War.
The day will include a mixed AFL
match, an Auskick kid’s clinic and
a Legends vs All Stars match before
bounce-down of the blockbuster game
between Vietnam and Jakarta.
The McMillan Dinner will return this
year to the brand new Pullman hotel
on the Saturday night, with tickets
available for purchase online. Money
raised through the day will be donated
to the Swans’ key charities — Swim
Vietnam and Vung Tau Orphanage.
For more information or online dinner
ticket sales visit
anzac-2016. Anyone interested in playing
the mixed or Legends game can contact
Maz at

The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, Apr. 23
Master eclecticist, raised in
Frankfurt and now based in Berlin,
where he holds a residency at the
Panoramabar and runs his own
acclaimed label, ND_Baumecker,
cannot be put into any box, but can
definitely make the rooms he plays
in shake. Scenesters will not want
to miss this one.
Doors open at 10pm. Tickets
are free before 11pm and cost
VND150,000 after.
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen
Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC or online at

32 | Word April 2016 |

Inspiring Women Workshop
Hotel des Arts, 76-78 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q3
May 2016
Kicking off last year, the Inspiring

Women Workshop Series returns for
a second outing this May.
On Wednesday, May 11, it’s the
Vision & Ideal Workshop. Open
yourself to new goals and learn
the tools you need to make your
inner vision an outer one. This is
followed by the Balancing Act of
Negotiation Workshop on Friday,
May 13, which offers a suite of
negotiation tactics and strategies
uniquely suited to help you
negotiate your way to your desired
On Wednesday, May 18 comes the
Creativity, Innovation & Leadership
Workshop to help you unlock your
inner potential for generating new
ideas and seeing them to fruition.
And finally, on Friday, May 20 the
Happiness & Fulfilment Workshop
will address the ages-old, yet
uniquely modern, problem: can you
have it all?
Each workshop runs from 8.30am
to 12.30pm and costs VND5.5 million
(US$250.) Each includes a coffee
break, and all necessary materials.
Tickets can be purchased via
Ticketbox. To learn more, visit and look through their
portfolio of events

George’s Marvellous
Saigon Outcast, Q2
May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5
Dragonfly Theatre will be staging

com/dragonflyvietnam. To keep informed. with all other on-stage roles given to lyrical singers based in Vietnam. visit Dragonfly Theatre on facebook. For more information contact Tu Tho from Lys Events on tutho@ lysevents. The orchestra will be conducted by Mr. com . and lead by soloists from the French National Orchestra. Q2. food and fun for all the family at Saigon Outcast. while the ensemble will be directed on stage by Brian Riedlinger. Carmen will be played by Nguyen Thanh Huyen while Don José will be performed by Patrick Garayt. the Roald Dahl classic. the French Institute of Ho Chi Minh City and Lys Events will be staging George Bizet’s Carmen for the first time ever in Vietnam on Jul. All performances start at 4pm and tickets are available at ticketbox. So get your tickets quickly. The Opera Ho Chi Minh City Opera House Jul. 1 and Jul. if not the most played. These shows are expected to sell out fast.3 4 5 their next production. HCMC Carmen. The HCMC Conservatory of Music. Carlos Dourthé. George’s nasty old grandma needs teaching a lesson. is coming to Saigon in a unique artistic collaboration between France and Vietnam. musical director of the Choir and Orchestra of Paris Universities. at the end of May and in early June. What follows from there will only be discovered if you come to the play. This project will showcase talent from Vietnam and France in both vocal and instrumental parts. 2 at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera 2 The most famous French opera in the world. which means an afternoon of interactive theatre. Saigon Outcast is at 188 Nguyen Van Huong. the artistic director of the International Choir & Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City. George’s Marvellous Medicine. and he decides the best remedy is a special homemade medicine. 1 and or click on lysevents.

18. party accessories. people who purchase through the Early Bird route will also get the chance to enter a competition to meet their favourite Formula 1 driver in an autograph session on Sep. Love your sports? The new website saigonsportsbar. is presently offering Early Bird tickets up until Apr. Laid out with a modern and attractive retail ambience. With savings available of up to 12 percent. the Singapore Grand Prix. 16 to Sep. The site is still in its development phase. Well. but for anyone who clicks on its URL. HCMC Exo Early Bird Tickets for F1 Singapore Saigon Sports Bar Website This year’s Formula 1 race in Singapore will take place on the Marina Bay Street Circuit from Sep. folks — as well as listings for the local expat sports. This includes more than 1.800 popular supermarket staples running from household items all the way through to personal care products. the new Uncle Bill’s stocks the same product range as its District 2 counterpart. that is. It also tells you where you can watch each particular game. HCMC. Inside Uncle Bill’s in District 2 1. Q2. Open in Thao Dien for three years. match. a stone’s throw from Vivo City. 5. The original store is at 26 Quoc Huong. A new website has been launched intent on fulfilling all your sporting desires. Q7. you’ll be no stranger to Uncle Bill’s. face-off. now you can! The new Uncle Bill’s is at 1032 (S12-1) Nguyen Van Linh. the official Singapore Grand Prix agent in or email formula1@exotravel. at the end of last year Uncle Bill’s extended its reach to Phu My thought you read could buy in Vietnam. toys. you’ll see that it has great . It’s the kind of place that sells all those kind of goods that you never 34 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Alternatively call (08) 3519 4111 ext. new restaurants and a soon to be inaugurated ambulance service 1 1 3 PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN The new MAD House in District 7 TJake’s is located on the spot once occupied by Mogambo The new Ho Tram Gallery Villas look nothing short of spectacular Found at saigonsportbar. HCMC 4 To take advantage of this deal for the 2016 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. and with a popular following among the area’s residents. 30. Cars head down the Pit Straight at the start of 2015’s Singapore Grand Prix 2. the day before the start of the Grand Prix. Uncles Bill’s Opens in District 7 4. at least. fight or meet. bout. if you live in Saigon. click on exotravel. the site provides all the televised sports listings you can think of — although not beach volleyball. Exo might just be what you’re looking for 3. with the inauguration of its second shop in Sky Garden. Q2. test. 2 PHOTO PROVIDED BY SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX If you live in District 2. stationary and office products. tools. Phu My Hung.IN PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN Just HCMC Uncle Bill’s opens in 15. electric items. clothes. 17 or pop into the Thao Dien branch of Exo Travel at 41 Thao Dien.

com | April 2016 Word | 35 . Located on the second floor of Capri by Fraser. European-influenced cuisine. the new version of the Danish-run eatery is airy and comfortable offering a luxury indoor experience with welldesigned chairs and tables. the villas feature unobstructed sea vistas from the dunes of The Bluffs and range in size from 800 to wordvietnam. Visit jakesamericanbbq. Located less than two hours from Ho Chi Minh City. For more information visit galleryvillashotram.000 for a 250g Australian strip loin) and seafood. the menu runs the gamut from classic Caesar salads through to burgers. HCMC.PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN 5 6 potential as an invaluable resource for people living in this for more info Ho Tram Gallery Villas The Ho Tram Project Company has announced the opening of sales on the latest feature of its Ho Tram Strip development. the menu has a wide range of options from starters (going from VND45. A well thought out wine list is also on offer as is a wide selection drinks and cocktails. For more info visit their facebook page at facebook. HCMC. Q1. Focusing on American cuisine. The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip. the joint has been busy almost from day one. blending indoor and outdoor living spaces with terraces and private swimming pools. on the site formerly occupied by Mogambo’s. MAD House Opens in District 7 MAD House has just welcomed its second edition in District 7. MAD House is located on 2 Street C. Phu My Hung.000) to grills ( or thebluffshotram. and according to both Jake himself and a number of customers. Each property is set over two floors. the Gallery Jake’s American BBQ Opened in February Jake’s lies quietly on Pasteur next to Number 5 Bar. VIP sections for those who like their privacy. BBQs and desserts. diner-themed interior with a long bar counter taking up half the space. There are also separate. Q7.700sqm. The 60. three-bedroom villas join The Grand Ho Tram Strip and Vietnam’s best golf course.000) and main courses (starting from VND175. as part of this up-and-coming beachside destination. This American BBQ and bar has a simple. Serving up contemporary. Jake’s is running a daily two-for-one happy hour on Tiger draft and house spirits from 3pm to 6pm and is located at 50 Pasteur.

just over six minutes after the original call. Working towards its 25th Anniversary next year (1992 to 2017). For more information click on vietnammedicalpractice. Each race heat mixed cyclo racing with team challenges portraying the daily life of students in the Mekong Delta. limited to Districts 1.IN Just HCMC Last year’s winners of the Saigon Cyclo Challenge. Used in 52 countries around the world. the privately-run Emergency Medical Response Center will have its own strategically placed fleet of international standard ambulances to respond to the emergency needs of patients. 1 2 Saigon Cyclo Challenge This year’s Saigon Cyclo Challenge organised by Saigon Children’s Charity at Celadon City (Tan Phu) attracted around 2. it enables the dispatcher to provide full life-saving support to the victim or person calling the service while they are waiting for the ambulance to arrive. 2. ProQA software is one of the key elements of this service and prompts the call taker what questions to ask and whether or not they should dispatch an ambulance. and 3 within Ho Chi Minh City. Operating 24/7 and accessible in both Vietnamese and English via the number *9999. the call taker was able to ask a number of questions that then allowed her to give advice to the caller on how to deliver the baby. In the Grand Final. Nutrifort who came second. taking part for the first time. were pipped to the post by new champions. Initially. SCC go to saigonchildren. Guardian Ambulances ready themselves for action for the new Emergency Medical Response Center 1. who had just gone into labour. The call came from a person living in Saigon Pearl in Ho Chi Minh City’s Binh Thanh District. This year’s event welcomed 12 competitive teams from a variety of industries and organisations. the Emergency Medical Response Center will be in full operation by the end of May 2016. Her request was an ambulance for her sister. 2. The Emergency Medical Response Center is run by Family Medical Practice.30pm at the Emergency Response Center on the 12th Floor of Ho Chi Minh City’s Diamond Plaza.500 scholarships and build 16 schools during 2016. During the simulation. the baby had already been delivered. To find out more about the work of 36 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. The simulation started at 2. won a spectacular victory over returning team AIM and two former champions. AIM. and Caravelle Saigon who went home in third place. SCC is aiming to provide .000 attendees and raised almost US$25. By the time the ambulance New Emergency Medical Response Center Passes First Test A soon-to-be completed Emergency Medical Response Center in Ho Chi Minh City went through a full simulation of its ProQA software programme last month.000 to support Saigon Children’s Charity in its mission of ‘Eliminating Poverty through Education’. | April 2016 Word | 37 .

contemporary art will be coming to the streets of Hanoi. Former Das Racist member. 4FM. although the bar opens at 6pm Artworks on the Street Around Central Hanoi Apr. Hanoi. An image from the latest exhibition by French photographer. Entrance is VND200. The laughter is returning. but from now on it will be hosted at CAMA ATK. com Ouissam CAMA ATK. enjoy. Sébastian Laval CAMA ATK. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. who will be returning to Vietnam for the umpteenth time. comedy and art. Hai Ba Trung. Hai Ba Trung. Tickets cost VND50. interact or wonder about the work.” he will be supported by up and coming American comic.ToDo listHanoi Art and comedy. This year he has already taken the stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe and Adelaide Comedy Festival in Australia.” says the resident curator at Manzi Art Space. soulful and afro-inspired house when Ouissam. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. Ten artworks will move out of the galleries and onto the streets this month with . 7 4. 3. with the odd underground DJ thrown in for fun.” Well over a year in the making. the Irish gagster is known for his intelligent. on boats and rooftops alike. head honcho of Cliché Records. dancefloor-inspired grooves from his collection to spin in CAMA’s intimate setting. For bookings and info. Ouissam will bring his experience and passion for seeking the deepest. Also on the roster are the amateur comics of the Hanoi Comedy Collective. 8 Expect a great evening of disco. impassioned and hilarious rants that have led to appearances on BBC Newsnight. 9 and Apr. Opening a new roster of shows will be Irish stand-up Aidan Killian. This month Hanoi gets creative 3 2 A Night with Aidan Killian 5. Heems. “We are therefore bringing art to public spaces where everyone can see.30pm. Doors are at 8pm. His second trip to Vietnam but his first to Hanoi.000 on the door.000 and includes a complimentary Magners Irish Cider. most sophisticated. Sam Thomas. 19. Apr. Apr. email Dan on dan@highway4. comes to town. Cliché is renowned for booking the best house and disco parties in Hong Kong. 38 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. 9 to 19 “Art should be accessible. 1 Anyone lamenting the closure of House of Son Tinh and the regular comedy nights hosted by this much loved venue need not fear. Hanoi and the show starts at 8. and confirmed on his schedule is the Glastonbury Festival in the UK and his sixth one-man show at the Edinburgh Fringe. the result of Manzi’s desire to broaden audience for contemporary art is Into Thin Air. Hai Ba Trung Friday. Between Described by Chortle as a “Wonderful story teller” and a comedian giving a “Master class in satire. Spin FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival and gigs at some of the largest comedy festivals on this planet. returns to ATK Ouissam performing last year somewhere in China 2. Hai Ba Trung Thursday. 98 FM. RTE. Here’s a map of the locations Irish gagster Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi this month 1.

Think Playground. Echoes and Nguyen Quoc Thanh. Apr. tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. record label owner. Heems released his official debut album. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views. Punjabi-American and native New Yorker. Tickets cost VND100. Nguyen Manh Hung. Hai Ba Trung Saturday. Into Thin Air is designed with the following aims: — To encourage artists to think more about their social responsibilities — To enable more access to art for the local public — To build awareness and appreciation for contemporary arts among a local audience via interactive and participatory art projects in public spaces — To contribute to the development of a free and open art scene via the promotion of freedom of artistic creation and cultural expression For more info on the artworks and the locations. Hai Ba Trung. although the bar opens at 6pm Once reserved exclusively for royalty. click on facebook. 24 Renowned French photographer Sébastian Laval will be exhibiting his latest body of photos at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel this month. Following the break-up of his hip-hop outfit Das Racist. Hoan Kiem. Doors are at 8pm. Himanshu “Heems” Suri returns to CAMA where he performed one of the stand-out gigs of 2014. Eat Pray Thug in 2015 at the same time as an exhibition of his artwork opened at the Aicon Gallery in New York City. | April 2016 Word | 39 . Hanoi THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014) wordvietnam. com/intothinairhanoi or check out the location map on this page Heems CAMA ATK. Hoan Kiem Apr. The works will be set up in ten different Hanoi locations over the 10-day exhibition period. visual artist. 9 Rapper. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. Crazy Monkey. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel is at 5 Ngo Quyen. 14 to Apr. Nguyen The Son. Nhung Nguyen. which will be located in L’Orangerie and the surrounding gardens. The rich colours of the two cities at night are highlights of the exhibition. with dramatic works in colour taken from 6pm until 6am in Hanoi along with his most recent new works taken at night in Hue.000 in advance.4 5 works by artists including Le Giang. Laval’s Latest Show Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy. Bui Cong Khanh. The new work represents a distinct departure from his classic black and white.

big. 3. Myanmar. The art will hang in the neo-classical lobby of the five-star hotel. catwalks. 14 The Apricot Hotel will host a collection of artworks by the late Bui Xuan Phai. Apricot Hotel. 22 to May 22 Creating a personal visual map of urban space and recreating it in miniature is the passion of artist Vu Kim Thu. traffic and architecture. turn to the feature article on page 14 Queer Disco CAMA ATK. The programme is supported by American Arts Incubator. ATK is the location for that monthly dose of fem-pop. The hotel will display seven of Phai’s paintings. Hoan Kiem. complementing the hotel’s permanent collection of original Vietnamese artwork. Doors are at 8pm. As the artist herself notes: “When travelling. the exhibition on Apr. Apr. A Minicreature Landscape will kick off at Manzi on Apr.” Entry is free. Hai Ba Trung Friday. where she curated the exhibition and publication Lost & Found Hanoi. by creating holographic videos that can be downloaded from the internet and projected via iPhone or tablet. 15 to Apr. The layout of maps generates structures and orientation that I fill with linear details evoking streets. 22 The late Bui Xuan Phai is one of Vietnam’s best-known and most revered artists 1. paper sculptures and light. and the result will be on display at Manzi for one month. For info click on facebook. the work of the photographer. This work complements her 40 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. I create a miniature city out of my drawing. 22 will focus on using technology to tell the personal stories of queer artists. Elizabeth Rush. Ba Dinh. Ba Dinh From Apr. 22 The culmination of a series of workshops with LGBTQ-identified artists conducted by Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien. glamour. Hanoi. Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su. 29 Art Vietnam Gallery will present Still Lifes from a Vanishing City. Hoan Exhibition at Nha San Hanoi Creative City. pop hits. sultry DJs and more. deemed one of Vietnam’s most “remarkable and charismatic” artists. This is the time to paaaaaaarty. poet and earlier focus on the ancient fading beauty of Hanoi. Still Lifes from a Vanishing City 2. Hanoi. alongside an array of works illustrating Hanoi’s streets by renowned Vietnamese artists who followed in Phai’s footsteps. I navigate a new city and draw the city in the form of map. Queer Disco continues its monthly parties at ATK 4. Apricot Hotel is at 136 Hang Trong. Hai Ba Trung. This is the first time the works have been showcased publicly. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De. and with an aftershow bash following the same-day exhibition at Nha San by LGBTQidentified artists. To see more about Nha San. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. Hoan Kiem From Apr. Hanoi Tales from a Vanishing City Art Vietnam Gallery. Hoan Kiem Apr. Hanoi.ToDo listHanoi 1 4 5 2 3 Remembering Bui Xuan Phai NhaSanCollective. although the bar opens at 6pm . please click on facebook. 1 Luong Yen. Slowly. big. Apr. For more info. Hai Ba Trung Friday. an entity that facilitates exchange between overseas artists and underserved communities. Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien will be leading a series of workshops this month at Nha San An image from this month’s exhibition at Art Vietnam. Hanoi Minicreatures Manzi Art Space. Nha San Collective is on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative City. 22 Once again. photographs and essays from Yangon. expect this month’s offering to be big. The book creates a snapshot of Yangon and its residents as the city prepares for enormous transformation over the next few years. Hai Ba Trung. population.

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101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward
Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 | April 2016 Word | 41





Maison de Tet Décor has now added Vietnamese cuisine to its menu

Tex-Mex comes to Hanoi in the form of Hanoi Taco Bar

A new English language library has opened in Trich Sai on West Lake

Club Med on Bintan Island in Indonesia, a short boat ride from Singapore



A new population of the endangered grey-shanked douc has been discovered in the Central Highlands



A rendering of an apartment in the new Novotel Suites in Cau Giay



Topas Ecolodge Summer Promotion


Topas Ecolodge Summer
Anyone put off by the new highway
to Sapa and the cable car to the
top of Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest
mountain, should dispense with the
‘argh’ factor. One resort in the Sapa
region still stays loyal to the charm
of the mountains that has made this
location so famous.
Situated 18km from the main
city and surrounded by beautiful
mountains, valleys and remote
minority villages, Topas Ecolodge
is one of those places that has been
built and run on the concept of
sustainability. The majority of the staff
have been hired from the local villages
and the property is on a constant
drive to give back to the local area.
To encourage you, the ardent
traveller and lover of wonderful
locations, to make that trip up to the
northwest of Vietnam, throughout
May and June, 2016 the resort is
offering 20 percent off all room
nights. Perfect for anyone wanting
to relax in the peaceful mountain
atmosphere while enjoying the views.
And perfect for anyone who wants
to hike along hidden trails and get
a taste of the untainted local ethnic
culture and their unique way of life.
To take advantage of Topas’s summer
promotion, click on
The resort also offers a limousine service,

42 | Word April 2016 |

the Topas Mountain Express, straight
from Hanoi to the lodge

Novotel Suites Opening
The Novotel Suites, located in Hanoi
New Urban Area, is on target to open
in May and has announced its line-up
of features. These include offering
the first apartments in Hanoi with
their own terrace. Superior studios
rent for VND36.2 million per month,
with a 10% discount for stays over
one month. The complex includes a
24/7 fitness centre, outdoor heated
swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi,
full hotel service with 24-hour
reception, restaurant and bars, plus
24-hour room service.
Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Hanoi or online at
For more info call Tel: (04) 3576 6666 or

Hope for Endangered Primate
Fauna & Flora International (FFI) is
celebrating the discovery of a new
population of the elusive greyshanked douc, a critically endangered
primate which is found only in
Vietnam’s Central Highlands. It was
thought there were only 800 to 1,000
grey-shanked doucs left in the world,
but the new discovery adds at least

500 to that count. Doucs are targeted
for the illegal wildlife trade and are
hunted for bush meat, traditional
medicine and the pet trade.
FFI is presently working on the
possibility of running ecotourism
journeys through the forest,
during which visitors would get to
experience the extraordinary beauty
of the jungle and people of the Central
Highlands as well as the possibility of
seeing the douc in the wild.
For more information, email
org or click on

Vietnamese Home-Style
Cuisine at Maison de Tet
A recent regeneration of their food
menu has seen Maison de Tet decor
add modern Vietnamese cuisine with
a focus on light flavours to its dining
Aiming to serve only the
freshest ingredients, most sourced
organically from Maison de Tet
décor’s farm, the sauces, marinades
and relishes are made in-house daily.
Some of the dinner menu items
are gluten free and many of them
For more info go to or pop into the café-cumrestaurant at Villa 156, Tu Hoa, Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi


a new taco
bar, Club
Med and
a public








Hanoi Taco Bar
Opened in late February in the
Old Quarter, Hanoi Taco Bar is
aiming to mix the taste of TexMex with the atmosphere of a
contemporary, rustic-style bar.
Serving up a range of tacos
— each costing VND40,000 to
VND50,000 a go — also on the
menu are chips and dips (from
VND25,000), a range of mains
(from VND45,000) and the already
famous bun cha tacos (VND50,000).
Everything here is homemade
including the pickles and sauces.
With gluten-free and vegan
options available, the cuisine is
matched by a unique cocktail
selection with most of the drinks
put together with local ingredients
and homemade syrups.
Hanoi Taco Bar is at 6 Dao Duy
Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at The venue runs
regular events including live music,
DJ nights and film screenings

Lotus Community
Based on the idea of creating
a learning community where
people can come together to
learn in a fun and interesting
way, Lotus Community opened
last month with a public English
language library and a focus on

books and board games.
With over 7,000 books in stock —
it took a whole year to collect these
books in Singapore — and more
than 200 board games including
anything from heavy strategy
through to children’s party games,
the family friendly centre is open
Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to
10pm, and charges minimal prices
for people to play games or use
their services. Reading on site is
free of charge.
Lotus Community is at 11 Trich
Sai, Tay To, Hanoi, Tel: 0934 504
804. You can find them online at

Food Cart
Other people have tried pop up
food carts in Hanoi in the past,
but the one put together by foodie
Javier Rodriguez could be a winner.
“I want to make innovative
and creative food and put it
on a cart,” he explains. “I like
to take classic foods and put
my spin on them. I mostly do
TexMex because that’s what I
grew up cooking and eating, but
the concept is more like TexMex
meets the world. I hand-make
pretty much everything. I really
love this food and I want people
to feel that when they eat it.”

Serving his products at a range
of diverse events around Hanoi,
his prices cost from VND30,000 to
VND40,000 a dish. For more info
click on

Exo Travel Takes on Club
The Hanoi and Saigon-based
travel agency Exo Travel has been
appointed the Vietnam agent for
Club Med.
The pioneer of the holiday club
concept, Club Med offers highend, friendly and multicultural
holidays for families and couples.
With resorts in 26 countries,
it boasts 80 Villages on five
continents as well as the cruise
ship Club Med 2.
In Southeast and East Asia
there are presently resorts in
China, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia
and Thailand including places
like Bintan Island in Indonesia,
a stone’s throw from Singapore.
Set on a picturesque beachfront,
Club Med Bintan Island has 311
rooms designed with modernity
and comfort in mind, and is
surrounded by tropical greenery.
For more info click on or call Exo
Travel on (04) 3828 2150 (Hanoi) or
(08) 3519 4111 (HCMC)

Insider Landing on Water / Ascending Long Bien Bridge / In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word / Arsenic and Old Lace / Night and Day at the Flower Market / 24 Hour Cafes / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Pho Vit Quay / Mystery Diner HCMC / The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon / Bangkok in Squares / The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh / 10 Destinations in Vietnam to Visit in 2016 / Notes From Another City: Danang. Why? / The Motorbike Diaries Part 13 Photo by Julie Vola 44 | Word April 2016 | .

com | April 2016 Word | 45 .wordvietnam.

com .Insider 46 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.

INSIDER NATIONAL Landing on Water As the Hai Au Seaplane service attests. Emily Petsko and Julie Vola fly by seaplane to Halong Bay wordvietnam. travel is not just about the destination. but the experience of getting | April 2016 Word | 47 .

The brainchild of Tran Trong Kien. Four Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process of being trained to someday go it alone. Buffalo Tours. Radford explains that it takes a long time to feel comfortable with water landings because the approach is largely dependent on wind direction. the first eight passengers of the morning file into a cramped Cessna Caravan plane at Noi Bai International Airport. the pilot calls back from the cockpit.2 million). “I want to set the expectation that this is more of an experiential adventure product rather than something that is too expensive and only for the rich. The result is a flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay that includes a 15-minute scenic flyover (starting from US$275 or VND6. passengers won’t get coffee. After completing its first full year of operations in 2015 and attracting mostly retired and honeymooning couples from Europe and North America. But the impression that landing on water is easy is an artful deception. Hai Au Aviation. Through his travel agency. you wouldn’t want to get stuck in the doorway. the founder and current CEO of Thien Minh Group.” he says. world-renowned for its seaplane services. On the one-hour flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay. Tourists travelling to the UNESCO World Heritage site typically go by car or bus. where passengers can board a golf cart to their hotels or cruise ships.” says Hai Au managing director Dinh Thi Thu Trang.” The two captains both hail from Canada. adding that the adventure factor adds to the appeal. you bounce. established the first and so far the only commercial seaplane service in Vietnam. In the event of an emergency. he played a significant role in bringing kayaking to Halong Bay 20 years ago. 25-minute scenic tour of the bay (US$99 / VND2. but customers can also opt for a separate.” chief pilot David Radford says of the difference between landing on land and water.D ucking their heads at the entrance. “It’s like night and day. Kien was inspired by the Australian seaplane service at Rose Bay in Sydney.1 million one way). Hai Au’s mother company. “It’s very thrilling. Now he wants to instill in Vietnamese tourism the concept of transportation as an integral part of the sightseeing experience. a plastic-wrapped lunch or their choice of cheesy action flick on the small screen. “Water doesn’t have much give. The aircraft glides across the water to a ramp leading ashore. life jackets should not be inflated inside the aircraft. After all. But 48 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. and water isn’t able to absorb the impact. When you land on asphalt. the water landing off the coast of Tuan Chau Island is remarkably smooth. Taking off is the easy part. Good weather permitting. One co-pilot has a background as a historian and . though. A middle-aged couple shoots each other nervous glances as the plane accelerates down the runway. but now another option exists. It’s the landing — smack dab in the heart of Halong Bay — that’s a bit trickier. the airline is now hoping to target a new market — expats and local they will get excitement and unparalleled views. which took off towards the end of 2014.

we’re so close to them. You just don’t get the same benefit from the water looking up’” wordvietnam. This is one (place) that needs to be seen from a bird’s eye view.“‘You can almost reach out and grab those islands at Halong | April 2016 Word | 49 .

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com | April 2016 Word | 51 .“For Hai Au Aviation. the low-flying trip over Hanoi and Halong Bay is not just a scenic pursuit — it’s also a history lesson” wordvietnam.

upon arriving in Halong Bay. and the other was situated at Bai Chay in Halong Bay. seem to stretch in patchwork perpetuity. and it’s evident why the seaplane is such a coveted mode of transportation. which served as a recreational outlet for the military. This is one (place) that needs to be seen from a bird’s eye view. The area now known as Noi Bai Airport served as the main base for the North Vietnamese air force. somehow appears even more immense from above. By 1923. . “The airspace over Noi Bai Airport has witnessed some of the most violent air wars of the 20th century. dreamlike landscape. In December 1920. Tourism Boom The seaplane service marks a larger trend in the continued development of Halong Bay. massive ships leave trails in their wake like slugs on a pavement. we’re so close to them. “You can almost reach out and grab those islands at Halong Bay.” Long History in Flying While Hai Au is the first commercial seaplane service in Vietnam. “I think our pilots have a lot to offer in terms of their stories. The Vietnamese leader seems to look on sternly. One was on Hanoi’s West Lake. one can still find the legacy of their unhappy history with numerous bomb craters dotting the landscape. Compare that to the average commercial airliner’s altitude of between 9. “This is not necessarily a high-end product.” Radford. “I see something new every day. “This is more of a ‘you gotta try it’. Indochina had 60 landing strips. then Halong Bay is surely a Dali with its surreal.” says Trang. cordoned off in neat sections. If the area surrounding Hanoi can be compared to a cubist Picasso painting. as Sainteny takes a large puff on a pipe. which literally means “descending dragon”. the low-flying trip over Hanoi and Halong Bay is not just a scenic pursuit — it’s also a history lesson. During the scenic leg of the flight. and it hopes to double that number in 2016.000 passengers. many of which have been turned into water reservoirs for farmers’ crops. You just don’t get the same benefit from the water looking up. a French pilot flew one of the first seaplanes in Vietnam from Hai Phong to Hanoi.” says Radford of the quick change in scenery.” For Hai Au Aviation. and another was among the first Vietnamese to climb Mt. Halong Bay. From above. Jump forward to the early 1960s and war had descended upon the nation. who has been with Hai Au since 52 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. farmers toil in the fields and. “To this day. Three years later.” says Trang.” On our trip to Halong Bay and back.000 feet) above sea level. Hai Au wants to expand its services and offer flights to other destinations. in the rice paddies surrounding the airport. by a wilder backdrop of turquoise waters and jagged peaks. the aircraft drops down to 100 to 150 meters. almost disapprovingly. uninhabited island or karst peak. Perhaps the most iconic photo from this chapter of aviation history is an image from March 1946 of President Ho Chi Minh and French Commissioner Jean Sainteny aboard a Catalina seaplane en route to Halong Bay to meet with French military officials. it builds upon a long national aviation history that can be attributed in no small part to French colonialism.000 and 12. It was spectacular. a French sub-lieutenant and two Vietnamese engineers made the first non-stop flight from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. the Red River Delta weaves a breathtaking tapestry of its inception. the details of the landscape come into sharp focus. whether it be a fishing village. quite abruptly. The airline will begin offering trips to Ninh Binh this summer. shapes and angles in varying shades of green. and landed just off West Lake. But the symmetry is eventually interrupted. which took a whopping eight hours and 30 minutes compared to the two-hour flight passengers enjoy nowadays. On a clear day. has made the journey countless times. Bird’s Eye View A typical Hai Au flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay reaches an altitude of about 900 meters (3. that was certainly how we felt. once-in-a-lifetime experience. Last year.000 meters. Motorbikes chug along narrow paths. Everest. The French built and operated two seaplane bases between 1946 and 1954. “There’s a huge ‘wow’ factor when you come over that coastline. “The spine of the dragon just comes up. Its fields and ponds. Yet the thrill of seeing those peaks has not fizzled out yet.diplomat.” according to a Hai Au informational recording that has not yet been used during flights. Vietnamese aircraft took off from the base to intercept US fighter-bombers that had been launching an aerial attack on Hanoi and surrounding areas. Yet going forward.” he says. Hai Au served more than 5.

“The two captains both hail from Canada. world-renowned for its seaplane services. Four Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process of being trained to someday go it alone” | April 2016 Word | 53 .

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com | April 2016 Word | 55 .g n o L g n i d n e Asc e g d i r Bien B INSIDER HANOI wordvietnam.

I waited for Jean not far from the bustle and scent of Long Bien Market. a time when security barely exists. One of the bikes started to slow as it approached. You could ascend skyscrapers. Regaining my assertiveness. Urbexers find a way in to anything from derelict theme parks. the most useful advice a newcomer to this city will ever hear. though. That may sound destructive. but according to Jeff Chapman. cataphiles delve into catacombs. The country’s poor building standards create a serious safety issue. ‘Lift surfing’ and ‘ruin porn’.” Jean said. before parking up against the railing halfway across. There was only one way to find out. Both expectations were dismantled by the grey clouds and our own underestimation of Hanoi’s early morning liveliness. “Just go through. My personal favourite is ‘Xmas’.Chris Humphrey meets with Vietclimb’s Jean Verly for a first taste of urbexing: scaling the rusting dragon that is Long Bien Bridge. Jean Verly of Vietclimb had agreed to meet me for an early morning climbing session. On the other hand. semi-rural areas are littered with abandoned buildings. perhaps even damage to property. You could be tried for trespassing. and long sought-after sites become accessible. searching for beauty in dereliction. U rban exploration. It was Jean. or UE is a form of recreational urban trespass. in the hope of climbing with the sunrise and perhaps missing some of the rush. the rider’s orange shirt standing out against the grey. The most prominent example is the ‘hero shot’. urbex. slipping from scaffolding. I held my camera close as I reached the fence. Some are extremely dire. Vietnam seems ripe with opportunities. skyscrapers. author of Infiltration. backlit adventurers silhouetted in front of cityscapes or underground tunnels. Chorus We swung round the little park on the western shore and started heading back. but still the possibilities must be numerous. urban explorers “never vandalize. Photography plays a big part in urban exploration. drowning in sewage or inhaling toxic dust. sewers and asylums to factories. there are serious risks. steal or damage anything”. Usually they begin in abandoned ruins. As these terms suggest. or lift manhole covers for subterranean jaunts. impaling yourself on metal spikes. ‘Buildering’ refers to the use of rockclimbing techniques when scaling buildings. Of course it doesn’t have to stop there. breaking and entering. We planned to meet early. Opportunities On the face of it. If you choose to descend you’re a drainer. Others refer to UE as building hacking or infiltration. such as those found in Paris. Thankfully. Then there’s the legal threat. leaning against my bike on the ramp that winds up to the bridge. amongst many others. As I crossed the dawn chorus morphed from birdsong to motorbike horns. missile silos and power stations. The name of which is also evidence of the scene’s developing phraseology. while new constructions and cranes are springing up 56 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. This new way of interacting with the city requires a whole new lexis. Their desire is one of discovery and the chance to take “a few nice pictures”. The roads were already thick with motorbikes. are self-explanatory. I found a way like garden weeds in the big cities. Rome and Odessa. although the latter refers to accessing ‘live’ spaces or secure locations. I showed Jean a diagonal section that essentially acted as a kind of ladder. And yet the unspoken rule is .

And we climb sometimes on the gate of Dong Da Park. which helped. with plastic bottles tied to their bodies to help them stay afloat. We walked as far as we could along the horizontal struts.” “And what about in Hanoi?” I asked.. I guess we might not call it urban exploration. no matter what your opinion. It felt glorious. Expats and Vietnamese. Hand-over-hand on the rusting iron limb. But I guess one of the good things here is that… you don’t have the crazy CCTV culture you have in places like London. Unnoticed Cargo ships passed underneath.” he said. walking slowly to stay safe. To onlookers. I could see Jean still up there.that of the country hiker. But perhaps that’s missing the point. the anarchy is the attraction. but that would be more for the photo opportunity. The thrill provides the impetus. Danger is clearly a core element of the scene. it draws our attention to the debate over private and public spaces. depending on their perspective.” “The movement is really just beginning in Vietnam. so heavily burdened with goods that they were barely afloat. Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Word Vietnam wordvietnam. others are trying to prove a point. In many ways that sums up people’s attitudes to urbex in general. but that’s arranged. leave nothing but footprints. As we explored I asked Jean about other urbex experiences he’d been involved in.” Perhaps the idea of capturing people on film sparked the thought. I suddenly realised we were missing something crucial. I stepped back down the diagonal limb and crossed the traffic to reach the edge. You don’t need anything to do it. then headed back to cross the support beams.” he hesitated. One of the best things to result from urbex is that. this time crouching and pushing with my hands to shoe-ski quickly down the rusty metal to the mid-level point. a steeply sloping girder leading to the highest point. Opponents depict it as witless. Nobody seemed to notice that we were there... There was barely a breeze today. “I was thinking earlier about maybe bouldering on the first floor of the water tower.” he continued. We must have been about 40 metres above the river when we reached the top. “We bouldered in some abandoned construction sites in An Khanh. we can’t really.. ‘take nothing but photos.” I say to Jean. “You have to put your head through the gap and lift yourself up. as he looked down the Red River. A few men swam in the river. it might not be legal. “It’s mainly in Saigon and Hanoi. Perhaps it’s for that reason that the movement’s rise in popularity has been met with increasing criticism. some just for kicks. needlessly dangerous or just plain illegal. until we reached the midsection. who’s just behind me.. advise that at Vietclimb. the ‘hero shot’. he may look either suicidal or courageous.. and there’s a mix of people that get involved. one thing is undeniable. Ladies in conical hats sold barbecued corn to pedestrians. We came up onto the last section.’ Eventually we reached the inner railing and began to climb. So there aren’t so many barriers to getting | April 2016 Word | 57 . Looking up. what should be accessible in modern cities? Is it possible to re-appropriate space? Whatever your viewpoint. and no passing trains to shake the bridge.. “Well. People are drawn to it for a number of reasons. Urbex will probably always be divisive. “but that was a private group. statue-like against the clouds as I took the shot. I told Jean and returned to the steeply sloping girder.

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But this is the problem with history. the people who’ve made this happen. Rather than being edgy and controversial — yes. a lot of sweat. It isn’t but it should be. We believe we continue to do so. This is our version. we know everyone loves a good scandal — we’re being positive. what we believe is a quality publication. While there will be some history involved — we all love a good yarn — we’re going to focus on celebrating all the man-hours put in to bring you. To get this far it’s been all about people. free of charge. we’re taking a different tack. 100 issues is a lot of work. Everyone has his or her own angle on the past.” Without intending it to be so. the people who’ve supported us. what followed was incendiary. I n November 2010 we ran an article with the following opening paragraph: “We would love to say that this month is the fifth anniversary of The Word.In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word Everyone’s got their own version of history. meaning that out of necessity. our version of events differed substantially from the version of our former business partners. and the people who read what we do. So this month as we turn 100. From your own comments through to different uses for the Word all the way over to our best articles. front covers and letters. You. It gave some history. blood and held-back tears. it is subjective. As it turned out. this month’s cover story is a celebration of a publication that was created to make a difference. Not only did the piece bring up the past — this publication and another well-known rag emerged out of a messy business break-up — but it also talked about how all these English language publications in Vietnam came into being in the first place. .

Bottom Line. Vietnam is just opening up and the country is not ready for them. After months of preparation. printed in Bangkok and imported into Vietnam. . the first issue of Saigon Inside Out hits the streets with a launch party at now defunct bar. What’s On in Saigon prints its last issue. It’s a long story February 2005 The idea for Saigon Inside Out is first discussed in Singapore while the present chief editor. Wellknown musician Juram provides the tunes. One of them ends up in Singapore. With one partner leaving and another one getting involved. while well over 300 revelers and the venue provide the party. The first issue of Asialife HCMC hits the streets. Nick Ross. 1996 November 2005 October 2006 After 18 months.A Short History of Word This is how it all started. 1994 What’s On in Saigon is published. August 2006 Saigon Inside Out publishes for the last time. The expat rag is produced in Saigon. work gets underway to expand with an edition in Cambodia. 10 issues in and due to licensing problems the people behind the rag are asked to change its name. and one of the founders of What’s On in Saigon are working together on the relaunch of a magazine called Education. The two founders of the publication leave Vietnam.

The launch party is at Xu Saigon and the first advertiser in the magazine is Bien from Xu. Add in the 44 issues of Word Ha Noi and it’s a squared dozen. the partnership behind Asialife breaks down and Nick Ross goes off to start a new publication with two other partners — the original Vietnamese partner. Tran Huynh The Vu. After much deliberation. Word Ho Chi Minh City and Word Ha Noi are combined into one publication. not quite. Duong Vy Bao. THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS W OR DV IE TN AM . ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION JULY LY 2013 L ER SUMM IN' LOV October 2007 November 2009 April 2016 After months of infighting. Printed in Ho Chi Minh City. But over time the city rivalry begins to dissipate and readers get used to the fact that Vietnam is a big | April 2016 Word | 61 . CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH. the magazine is exported to the Cambodian capital by bus. The first issue of Word Ho Chi Minh City hits the streets. 4 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS wordvietnam. Word Vietnam.July 2013 December 2006 January 2008 Issue 1 of Asialife Phnom Penh goes onto the magazine stands. At first readers from each city are irritated by having to read (or not read) content from elsewhere.C OM CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH. ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. It’s 100 months since Word Ho Chi Minh City was first launched. Word celebrates its 100th issue. All guests had to take off their shoes before entering — the bash was on a lawn in a beautiful setting by the Red River in Hanoi. Well. and the sales manager of Asialife. Word Ha Noi is finally launched with a party in barefoot at Softwater in Hanoi.

The content is very useful and informative.What You Say Mark Harris UK Lives in Hanoi I think The Word is a stonewall of Hanoi. some of you think there is stuff we can improve upon. I always find it quite interesting. And there are a lot of advertisements in the beginning which I understand. So we decided to hit the streets and get your comments Chris Jones Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City To understand Vietnamese people one only has to understand what I call The Six Priorities. Once you understand these six priorities. It has lots of content. It’s my source of life. Daniele Moretti Italy Lives in Ho Chi Minh City I have been a big fan of Word Vietnam since I got to Vietnam eight years ago. It’s still relevant and it’s still an awesome read. Tu Ngoc Vietnam Lives in Hanoi I am very impressed with the visuals of the magazine. especially as it’s for free. Eva Netherlands Lives in Hanoi It has a lot of interesting articles and the photographs are really nice. how is it possible to do such a magazine without asking for money. I am very impressed. and it gives me a bit of a gateway in terms of what’s happening in Vietnam. obviously after years it must be quite hard to find new things to write about. I find it interesting when I see my country and its people discovered under completely new angles. They are 1) Family first 2) Self 3) Close friends 4) Other Vietnamese 5) Country 6) Foreigners. As a foreigner you have fewer expectations and therefore suffer fewer disappointments. Thanks Word Vietnam for such helpful information. it’s very professional. I really like articles about Vietnamese people and the country. some of you don’t. restaurants and destinations. Normally city magazines have less content and more ads. but I think you do. but haven’t heard of some streets or places. Alternatively. They give a very clear insight into the people and culture of Vietnam. Trang Bui Vietnam Lives in Ho Chi Minh City I read Word Vietnam to get information about events. I will always be a fan. everything about Vietnam and its people falls into place and becomes crystal clear. I still read it now. happening magazine. I think if you look at the front page. so I am not sure before opening what will be in it. I find it a little bit confusing when you see the magazine what it is going to be about. It provides an accessible platform for young journalists and photographers to get involved in journalism and to showcase what they can do. my way into the expat lifestyle. It’s the way to go. Brett USA Lives in Hanoi It’s a wonderful. I think the way that you engage with the community to make the content is really admirable. It looks good. Sometimes. I especially love the photography Some of you like us. I am surprised as I have been living and working in Ho Chi Minh City for a long time. eclectic. you can short circuit this whole information gathering process by imbibing Word magazine. interesting. . Lorenz Germany Lives in Hanoi It’s fantastic. really good design and there aren’t advertisement on every page. it’s glossy. As a Vietnamese.

Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Good magazine. When I first arrived here many years ago there were no expat forums or Facebook pages dedicated to helping you find your way in this sometimes hard-to-manoeuvre | April 2016 Word | 63 . A lot of information. I’ve tried to read it every month. I think it needs to listen to what foreigners are going to say and what’s happening here. It helps us. I have been out of Ho Chi Minh City about three years. I think maybe you could approach a little bit more of it. But before I thought it was good. So I just don’t bother reading the Ho Chi Minh City articles. Marion Vigot France Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Word is a great source of information. I love that there’s a publication that is targeted right at the expat population. I like that you mention the city (on top of articles). I normally look at what’s happening around town. These days I just like grab a copy to see what everyone is up to and what’s new around town. Word was a Godsend. When you talk about the culture and food. it’s just knowledge for me. I pick up some events. In general. I don’t have much to do with the Word anymore. that was the reason why I used to advertise with Word. I think it enriches our experiences of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City by telling us all the amazing things that are going on here. Maybe more beauty related content would make it better! wordvietnam. Now I’m living in Mui Ne. There’s a lot of information and that would be the exact thing that I would look at to find a place to hang out. That’s my favourite. A good read! Vietnam Lives in Mui Ne I used to live in Ho Chi Minh City and did a lot of advertising with the Word in the past. I love it. Every issue focuses on a different theme and their team is always finding interesting and fun things to tell us about.Agnes Jason Elizabeth Homfray France Lives in Hanoi USA Lives in Hanoi Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City I like it. We owned Juice. and most months I do. But I also think politically that you have to be careful. Pictures are nice. Great job it looks very professional. Ron Davis CK Vietnam Lives in Hanoi I think it’s great. Kim Mark Seymour Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Honestly. though. look into the lives of other Saigoneers and plan my next adventure. with updated information. The content is well-balanced and unique. or to learn about cities in Vietnam — Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in particular. a few new restaurants. really aimed at expats. More importantly Word is in English and it’s one of the rare magazines that I can actually read in Vietnam. After tracking down those hard to find items I would then head to one the restaurants recommended and read up on upcoming events. but when you browse the pages it’s interesting information. quite a few places. Pacharan. There are a lot lovely articles. with information to help with just about everything. it’s excellent. Living and Giving. Like Eva it’s not really clear what it is gonna be about. I still read.

Also. So. what is the secret? Partners and Perseverence For Craig “Jacko” Jackson of the Al Fresco’s group. Look at the Highlands Coffees. it is not just your business partner that matters. avoid going local. much more careful with their money. we felt we would go with where the strength was. the secret is a mixture of perseverance and your choice of business partner. From staffing problems to an expat community of the time who felt he would fail like so many others before him. For this writer it certainly is. You really need to like the people you work with. If you’re a foreigner. however. “Knowing people is important. particularly in premium Bordeaux 1) Know your business backwards. but talking to people in the capital.” (A Capital Affair. can speak Vietnamese and am married to a Vietnamese. “compared to Saigon. The main problem is not foreigners. 3) If you’re a foreigner. Vietnamese is perfect. So much so.” He adds: “You often go into bars where there is a foreigner shouting at the end of bar. don’t try to do business in Vietnamese. planning in advance is vital as is having good connections. The big wine companies do a good trade. but also your staff. For him. In Saigon. you couldn’t be more PC if you tried. Don’t just wander into town and find the first bloke you meet. and now with 22 outlets and 850 staff. It’s got to be someone you trust. Don’t come in as a novice. open in Hanoi since 1995. but for business. they will keep coming to your outlet as long as you treat them fairly and with respect. Don’t just pretend. Your article was complete rubbish. He also cites having good staff as being key.” At the same time. 4) Show people that you like them. If you’re Vietnamese. no matter how much it may cost you in the short term. “A hundred percent of nothing is still nothing. there would be less stories of people being ripped off. with the taxation department and so on. though. his choice of starting the restaurant in Hanoi rather than Saigon was purely down to the person he would be able to partner with. in the mid 1990s he “could have given up many times over”. “and trust them with your life. They have absolutely no interest in allowing foreigners to integrate into their society. May I suggest you take an elementary course in Vietnamese culture. HANOI IS A LAND OF OPPORTUNITY. the original Le Pub on Hang Be in Hanoi and a third version set to open in West Lake this month. “even though people have got lots of money”. April 2010 January 2010 (Once a Foreigner. What complete rubbish! If more people learnt to speak “business Vietnamese”.” he explains.” The Staff Giorgio Vergano. but in Hanoi.” He adds: “If you have a fair-minded partner and you’re fair-minded with what you give them for their workload. but the Vietnamese people themselves. Matt counts himself lucky. “I still dug in because I wasn’t going to be beaten. as anyone who has had experience doing business in the north will testify. but finding it and filling it successfully is far from straightforward. The gaps in the market are there. agrees. in the early days he had his fair share of difficulties. “They help in many situations. colleagues and people to work with you. but that’s irrelevant if you don’t have the Vietnamese side of the business tied up. “Even when I was at my darkest hour. Hanoians are vastly different from their counterparts down south. Once they like your outlet. Hanoians can sometimes be tough to deal with and are occasionally self-important.” he says. read a book. people in Hanoi are much tighter.” he explains. KFCs and Al Fresco’s groups of this world. but that’s irrelevant if you don’t have the Vietnamese side of the business tied up. and a lot of people know how to run a business. “I now have good people working with me who are Vietnamese. For social situations. And to this day. Up and running in 2008. Then there are manufacturers like Canon and Honda. Your staff have to like you in order to respect you and do good work for you. Words and photos by Nick Ross. he believes this is the key. if you don’t have the connections with the government. no matter what situation you’re in. his venture is still in its early days and he finds that doing business in the capital “is a learning process that will never end”. people won’t really bother with them so much. and a lot of people know how to run a business. knowing who your customers are and fitting your product to their needs is an important component in making things work. It just doesn’t work. I have been in Vietnam for a very long time. than to have a market share.” he explains. . then there’s no point doing business here.” Know your Market With any business. “They are loyal people. the face of the Italian coffee brand Punto Italia. Mar.” he recalls. “It’s a different mentality”. And yet. A Capital Affair It’s usually Saigon that is touted as the place to do business in Vietnam. You need to know what you are doing. “Find someone you trust to be your partner. almost all the customers use a discount card. but making it work well is a challenge. be honest! business business “A lot of people know how to run restaurants. especially in Hanoi. “Although we realised that Saigon was a much bigger market. when you’re doing business. the following points seem to be key: 2) Make sure you have good Vietnamese partners. But Hanoi offers lots of opportunities as yet untouched by entrepreneurs. December 2009) Nick (Nick Ross is the author of the article). then stick to what you know. This is far from the perfect answer to how you can take advantage of the business opportunities available in Hanoi. employ people you’ve learnt to be close with and be prepared to spend the first two or three years watching every single thing they do. Some Tips There are a whole host of things that you need to learn if you want to do business in Hanoi.” He cites the scenario of the various discount cards issued by his restaurants. this will be helpful. “The people in Hanoi are very discerning. So. some are bad and some are downright bizarre.” explains Jacko. but hopefully. if you’re taking the plunge or are going to move up north. we thought it was much more preferable to have a Vietnamese partner who we could trust. 5) Never lower your standards. Many companies see a niche and go up north. but doing business in the capital is far from simple. very difficult. Don’t try to keep everything for yourself. With a bar in Ho Chi Minh City. all who seem to do good business in Hanoi. Just don’t expect it to be easy. Here’s a selection. while a whole host of other enterprises. if you can’t sort all that out. then remain principled. or more importantly. Al Fresco’s. Some are good. It was very. With his first restaurant. that many have given up.Inbox We’ve got eight years worth of your emails and comments online. The moment you start using Vietnamese you will be judged more harshly. March 2010 The Word | 49 48 | The Word March 2010 December 2010 Hold on a sec! Is it just me or does The Word have the best looking staff in Saigon? Without naming names I’ve had the pleasure of running into several of the guys and girls that work for the publication on many a drunken night out and can categorically say that I quite fancy them all! Are any of you single?! 64 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. 2010) You mention that you should never speak Vietnamese as a foreigner when doing business or you will be treated more harshly.” Matt Law of Le Pub has the same experience. A lot of people know how to run restaurants. then they’re happy and you’re happy and it makes a big difference. So. have managed to set up shop there. there are others who have managed to make it a success. both local and from overseas. as Jacko points out. Also. Always a Foreigner. screaming at staff.” For Jacko.

I wonder if you have the Word in Ho Chi Minh City or other cities in Vietnam? I wish you a happy and successful year in 2011! Best regards. However. August 2012) Confessions of an English Teacher From scheduling DVD lessons to coincide with hangover blues. I broke the syllables down to make the pronunciation easier. Thanks for your kind words and wishes. bars and restaurants. English teachers do get a bad rap here but I gotta say sometimes we deserve it. They simply should not be used in the first place.April 2011 The Prelude February 2011 Chuyên đề du lịch. Not that I'm any kind of expert on what it takes to put out such a publication. The assistant was out of the room and I couldn’t face dealing with it. Nadine. — Karl T. If you laugh it off. but hopefully we can find a way to match off some singles. And as someone who does have some experience in Hanoi from when I lived here in 2004. yourself are most likely a hipster. February 2011) in which you referred to “a lot” of expats as being “somewhat damaged goods”. he says. We do distribute around the whole city to a wide variety of distribution outlets – anything from medical centres to international schools. To your credit you do not refer to all expats by that termonly most of them. nice badge. Emma. — Sasha SURPRISINGLY PROFESSIONAL I must say that The Word is surprisingly professional and refreshingly sophisticated for an English language city publication. she turned the bum hose on me to keep me away. One kid came in wearing a black badge one day and I drew attention to it and started teasing him about it. Just before break time a bigger kid pushed him over and he really hurt his leg. but now I’m reformed. Hanoi's expat population is not huge and the publication probably has few resources and does not generate much revenue. actually. “what do you think is difficult about the dating scene in Hanoi?” I was rendered momentarily speechless. one charming bachelor turned the question around. We shall send you the next issue. I’d completely forgotten what’d happened and started playing a game of ‘change chairs. And if you want to share what you love — or hate — about The Word. I kept sidling up to the kid no one liked and farting next to him before moving away. “C***! C***! C***!” Sophie. people tend to take them. or the label “hipster” doesn’t really have any meaning. DEAR MS H. The chosen ones. 25 One of my students finished her test early. Outside of the tired complaints — language and cultural barriers. It was only when I started drilling the individual sounds that I realised my mistake. Bravo. How kind of you. it doesn’t mean all of us are like that. As you say. We hope this means more will get left lying around the city. Julia.” He replied. “Well.’ The 15-year-old boys in the class loved it. and adventurous — and not willing to settle for anything. But now I’ve figured it out. so I ignored it and left him sitting in his own sh*t for the next half of the lesson. June 2012 (Is Saigon for Hipsters? April. He looked at me from the floor to see what I would do but I just 28 | Word August 2012 pretended I hadn’t seen anything happen and let the drama unfold. it's one of the first things I’ve read here that really does a good job of not only capturing some of the local culture and experience. When we have counted up your votes we will choose two winning couples to go on dates in two of the city’s best restaurants. What a charming turn of phrase you Americans have. and two years older. Andrew. Towards the end of the class. Until then. I kept pushing her to stand up and participate with the rest of the class until the teaching assistant sidled up to me and told me the kid had a prosthetic leg. EVERYONE LOVES CULTURE I've been pretty impressed with the articles I've read and overall layout and product. ẩm thực CITY . And yes. this surely got the town talking! The stories are hilarious as heck.” Thanks for writing another condescending article on a topic that has been written to death over the last 10 years. I’ve been known to behave in such a way before. I’ve come to realise there is something deeper. 25 A junior kid kept [irritating me] in the lesson and wouldn’t listen to me or do as he was told.COM MARKET GUIDE That market issue (The Insider’s Guide to Markets. thinking she’d got every question we have outlined our plan to do a to-the-door delivery service to individuals as well as businesses. I can’t wait for another guide like this one. However. To avoid embarrassment. Am I to take it then that you exclude yourself and your friends from such a categorization? Of course you do. Please see this month's house advert . it comes across very polished and well or ian@ wordhanoi. WHERE’S THE WORD? People are interested in reading The Word but they have trouble finding it. which is fine. most western men prefer Vietnamese women. here are confessions straight from the horse’s mouth. which is actually a much bigger publication. in Hanoi and I had no succinct answer myself. Damaged goods. PLEASE EMAIL JULIA AT JULIA@WORDHANOI. Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Only someone who grew up in a cutthroat society that quickly divides its entire population into a few “winners” and a vast underclass of “losers” would have the nerve to use such a vile and hateful descriptive of the very people your publication claims to cater to. but when I tried to approach her. Do you see? It does not matter what you surround such terms with. or at least a date. “even you. I also find your use of the word Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động Ho Damaged Goods Front Cover Design by DH Advertising Photo by Aaron Joel Santos W hile interviewing the 18 eligible bachelors and bachelorettes for this month’s cover story. let alone settle down. Photo by Charles Barnes Dave. I finally tracked her down in the ladies toilets. 22 I’d had really bad food poisoning the night before class and couldn’t stop farting. updated. either everyone belongs to this detestable social movement. August 2012 Word | 29 Well. 29 I have a lot of banter and jokes with the kids in my classes. 2012) Inbox DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO. “Hey. Anna. Chuck Klosterman writes about being a journalist on the other side of the questions. but I somehow managed to fall asleep midway through a class feedback session while I was sitting at the front of the room.B AND MS HA. businesses. Who doesn’t need to improve on their accuracy and pronunciation? Rich. I recently had the misfortune of coming across your editorial piece in the February issue of the word magazine (The Prelude. for the short term or the long run.” and given this vague list of traits that could apply to virtually anyone (liking culture and art. wanted to experience something outside of the homes and the lives we grew up in. Also. not spending a lot of money. Katherine. May you be surrounded with people who love you and can keep you warm this S I N G L E S n City w w w . like in any profession. Is it bad that none of my students noticed? Johnny. I especially liked learning about leggings street (Gia Ngu). So to stall time I told her to check it. they’re fine. you'd get a lot of people interested for to the door subscription — H. 27 I was trying to teach my class the word ‘contain. but kids all look the same to me. wordvietnam. Gaz. — B. and adhering to current fashion trends). In coffee shops and restaurants. The staff that puts this out makes tiny salaries and this effort comes obviously from an inner-passion and personal interest. December 2010) was really helpful and well done. embassies. It’s to remember my brother who just died. Impressive. cafes.’ Realisation dawned on me as he waddled out of his seat and the unpleasant smell in the room intensified. Also. We’re not pretending that we can make miracles in this month’s cover story. we’ll always embrace you with open inboxes. She misunderstood me and fled the room. If you were to offer a delivery service you might alleviate the issue of people taking copies from cafes and restaurants.B Your publication is very friendly. 22 A lot of the kids are really small so you have to be careful where you put your feet. with sharp articles so I don't know why I see it so rarely. some western men resent western women for assuming the former — the truth holds that Vietnamese women are unfairly adorable and a lot of expats are somewhat damaged goods. Nghiem Thuy Ha. Much like if I were to refer to you as being somewhat an ignoramus or you were to refer to a Vietnamese person as being somewhat a gook. I walked into my teenage class one day and said. Just email julia@wordhanoi. there are good and bad. we do need to keep some in the outlets around town for other people to read. A lot of us who have decided to make Hanoi a home away from home. but I just know as a | April 2016 Word | 65 The Word .A. unless it’s love at first sight it’s hard to pin down that perfect soulmate. I'd bet if you contacted some of the embassies and communications directors at international schools to see if they could pass along a sign up. look at the striking photography and the incisive writing. We’re a tough bunch to please — always seeking something new. I happened to see that The Word stand in Joma on To Ngoc Van was empty. 23 I had a student who wouldn’t join in any of the physical activities such as changing chairs or racing games. “Yes. we wish you a Happy Tet and Happy Valentine’s Day.w or Chi P dh lu an Sec M s oi tio inh Miss Plevin. One wonders how your kind survive being forced to rub shoulders with such a desperate rabble on a daily basis.” Jenny. September 2012 6 | The Word February 2011 “somewhat” to be a cowardly attempt to soften a highly offensive term. travel agencies. sitting in a cafe. Still. We are lucky to have The Word free of charge every month and I hope that it continues to evolve and improve. The whole class was convinced it was him. 24 I’m sorry. but communicating it in such a way that an English-speaking audience would find attractive — that is mostly what caught my attention. the community is too small. I’m always calling them “You!” in class and have completely fabricated grades and comments when the reports come through and there’s a kid’s name you don’t know. (Confessions of an English Teacher. we have The Word Ho Chi Minh City. I used the information to buy all of my Christmas presents and my friends and family were totally stoked. But we need you to give us your help — simply send an SMS to 01696 809735 with the voting code of your favourite bachelor and favourite bachelorette. fresh. 24 I had a really young class and realised about an hour into the lesson that one of the kids had sh*t his pants. I made my youngest class gather around me for story time and accidentally kicked one in the head. “Has anyone seen little Vu?” The intonation I used meant that I was actually saying ‘little boobs. And when life is so transient and something better always seems to be waiting down the line. 22 My problem is pronouncing Vietnamese names. Teacher. as 18 ten-year-olds stood Product Manager — Threeland Travel “A hipster is a blasé semi-intellectual below the age of 40. The teaching assistant had to come and wake me up. to leaving 20 ungraded tests at the bar after last orders. As a teacher myself.’ In true CELTA style. 29 It’s not uncommon for people to fall asleep during a listening test when the CD is playing and the kids are all writing. I sarcastically said. Here I had been prying into the hearts and souls of those looking for love.

What a load of xxxx. July 2015) Good article. 102 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam. I H2H: Measuring the Gains CYCLING FOR CHARITY Cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is more than a physical journey. But there was one thing you missed.” Inspired by easy metaphors. You can buy a property here. 50 year leases don’t make sense. “But Paul’s really in shape for all of this stuff. with a rider from last year’s H2H Charity Ride describing her thighs transitioning from crosscountry class to slappy. Danny Walsh had really good calves. (Now You Can Buy. Is that really necessary? You should try being more independent. with a highly unscientific yet hilarious method.000km H2H covered between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. “I’d walk into a room and you’d just hear them making this thick sound. Who’s the Firmest? “I hate to say — Paul [Cordier]. to the tune of 3cm — Andrea Towne. we are disappointed with the portrayal of the ride and we feel we have been misrepresented. Anything below becomes a problem. then just turned to pudding.” Emma said / I paraphrased. but eventually the bodies of the 19 riders on this year’s H2H Charity Ride began to tell their stories. You have to own it outright. “They blew up to twice their size with six hours of cycling a day. and for what amazing cause. May 2013 (Lifestyles. to talk about the 2. but you publish too many puff articles. However. . And then the story got less Word Vietnam (page 102). fat things. Words by Ed August 2015 July 2014 Hanoi to HCMC Bike Ride We are writing to you as six of the 16 riders who completed the cycle from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in April of this year. and we got into that too. and the emotional truths behind their legs of steel.LEISURE October 2012 Fluff ‘n Puff I like what you’re trying to do at Word. April 2013) What a load of tosh. but you can’t sell a house if you have a mortgage on it. in ways both humorous and tragic. Do you have any jobs available? I could come and help you out with your writing. First we would like to thank you for your article in the June edition of 66 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. You really think anyone in their right mind is going to buy a house here? You can’t even get a visa these days. It didn’t show what we’d accomplished.” Andrea says. Buy a house in Europe and you’re looking at a minimum of 70 years. Photos by David Harris and Francis Xavier t started as a joke. Afterwards we met up with trip leader — and leading thigh-girth burner. Word decided to do some before-and-after measures of this year’s riders. Except for the article on the bia hoi lady and the piece about BiBi — it’s good to see what he’s doing now — I thought that was a thoroughly unappealing and badly written cover story.

So moving… Great cover this month. ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL.November 2015 The Front Cover. It reminds me why I love this country: it’s all about emotions. Wow! A really moving cover. October 2015 I just LOVE the picture on the cover. Love it! Best cover you’ve done this year.C OM ON THE STREETS wordvietnam. I hope you’re going to give a copy of the magazine to that woman. 10 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS W OR DV IE TN AM . CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊ | April 2016 Word | 67 .

images of motorbike logjams trailing back down Saigon’s Dien Bien Phu come to relativists-vs-colonialists . the man behind McDonald’s in Vietnam. this symbol of American culture. or we wouldn’t stay. Obviously we like living here. run by people who haven’t got a clue what they’re doing. Photo by Kyle Phanroy I f last year’s market entry of Starbucks can be viewed as a prototype. ‘Why hasn’t McDonald’s come earlier. of which I like to think myself a member. then by the time you read this piece there will have been extraordinary queues outside McDonald’ By Tim Russell I n my experience there are three types of expat in Vietnam. To read the full article click on http:// wordvietnam. McDonald’s Relativists vs Colonialists Is it the inexorable path of progress or is it a sign simply of changing times? Nick Ross speaks to Henry Nguyen. “A lot of my friends here and a lot of young people I meet. and that even the bad things can’t be criticised as it’s their culture and we have no right to find fault with it. too long. Those who – let’s call them relativists – think the whole country is wonderful and the people lovable and honest. On the other extreme. that kind of flits between these two extremes. Using the Drive-Thru model to enter the Vietnamese food-drink/features/mr-mcdonald-s 68 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. corruption and greed. For many. doesn’t McDonald’s think Vietnam is a promising market?’ There is a lot of economic self-esteem embedded in the presence of McDonald’s. we have the colonialists – those who think the country is a festering rat’s nest of dirt. ask me. Says Henry Nguyen. has been a long time in the making. but we aren’t blind to its faults and we try our best to offer advice as to how these faults could be rectified.” Full Article: http://wordvietnam. the man charged with bringing McDonald’s to Vietnam. and who need a good dose of foreign management to sort them out.Our Top Articles January 2014 September 2009 Article with the most online hits on our website Second most online hits on wordvietnam. and there are days when Vietnam feels like the best place in the world. Then in the middle you have a third group. The arrival of this fast food monolith.

2) Why do you eat cheese and wine for dessert? What better way to satisfy your sweet tooth than indulging in some… pungent blue cheese? Alright. you tell us “you look so old!” which drives us straight to the anti-aging moisturizer shelf in the nearest Maximark. Preconceived ideas. So. prepare your ego for a bruising. we have put together a selection of dishes found in this country. November 2013 October 2015 Most read food article on wordvietnam. with a smattering coming from overseas. which in terms of style and taste has developed into a beast all of its features/a-street-food-tour-of-vietnam-the-north 25 Things Vietnamese Don’t Understand about Westerners Cultural faux pas. get ready for answers to all those questions you had about Western people but were too shy to ask. they don’t understand why Western guys are attracted to tanned girls. regardless of nationality. most of them dreamt up for the full article wordvietnam. because they look healthier than pale guys (I guess that’s why Vietnamese girls aren’t exactly beating down my door). Vietnamese people. time to get that saliva running. says much for how Vietnam’s street food is being received around the globe. there is pho. That a restaurant chain in the UK even had the gall to try and trademark the name of Vietnam’s best known dish. 3) Why are Western guys into tanned girls? Vietnamese girls have told me they are attracted to tanned guys. controversial. 1) Why won’t you tell me your age? Because when we do.Over the past 100 issues we’ve published good articles. Words by Kieran Crowe I recently reached out to my Vietnamese friends and colleagues to ask them what things Westerners do which they find amusing or odd! Any Westerners reading this. click on http://wordvietnam. To read the full piece. maybe this one is a bit One of the most commented upon pieces on Facebook The Best Street Food of Vietnam: The North V ietnam has well over 100 street food dishes. There are variations of course — both on a dish itself and on the way it is served up in different regions — and then of course. The full versions can be found online at wordvietnam. Contrasting world views. Here is a selection of writing from Word journos past and present. Here are all those things that people in Vietnam don’t understand about Westerners. But which of these dishes are quintessentially Vietnamese? And which dishes are the true originals? To try and get at what we believe is the core of Vietnamese street food. Click on http:// wordvietnam. bad articles and some pieces that are just. It’s | April 2016 Word | 69 . However.

Anecdotally it seems safe to say that expat Facebook forums are the refuge of the stupid and the mean-spirited. as the Hermit Kingdom. Yet I can’t shake my primordial loathing of these forums. Facebook forums can be an invaluable resource. which the country has come to be known as. Read for the full piece by clicking on http://wordvietnam. Full Article: http:// wordvietnam.December 2012 December 2014 Our most popular travel article online This piece caused a storm on Facebook. Words by Niko Savvas. From the Arab Spring to the Hong Kong protests. For all of its faults (and there are many). If you’ve spent a decent amount of time in Vietnam. Visiting the northern section of the Korean peninsula has been more than a trip — it’s been a plunge into a whole other reality. I was one of the select few. it has given a voice to the voiceless and opened the world’s eyes to injustices that once might have gone unnoticed. Personal opinions aside. A certain Facebook group admin was not impressed A Journey to the Land of Whispers Seeking a unique travel experience. It lies somewhere between a 1930s Soviet Union and a futuristic vision of international/a-journey-to-the-land-of-whispers 70 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. In general my experience of Facebook has been positive. When asked about my experience it’s hard to find a relevant reference point. seen or experienced. just share a picture and wait for the crowd-sourced diagnoses to pour . I decided to investigate. after much deliberation Chrystian Cohen took the train into Pyongyang to visit North Korea N orth Korea feels frozen in The World of Expat Facebook Groups Whether its snakepits of despair you’re looking for or that small-town feeling you’ve been missing. the expat groups of Facebook supply that little touch of connection that we all occasionally need. you probably have your own horror stories of boorish and moronic behavior online. Want to know if that oozing wound on your foot is infected? Skip the hospital. which outsiders were never really meant to see. Illustrations by Vu ha Kim Vy C riticising other people’s use of Facebook is terribly passé. is unlike any place I have ever been. Need an English-speaking ophthalmologist? Ask Facebook. like saying you enjoy The Beatles or hate racism. it’s hard to argue that Facebook doesn’t serve many useful purposes. For expats in Vietnam. as imagined back in the 1970s. this social media superpower has become an indispensable part of life for billions of people around the world.

com/people-culture/the-big-story/ vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great The final say THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother Learning Vietnamese Unless you’re a lifer. If you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers (or if you’ve heard somebody refer to it during a cocktail party. Even in the 700s. 100 percent vein-popping mental selftorture with expensive tutors and learning materials”. a traveller could wander from modern-day Portugal down to North Africa. because that’s the entire point of having an international language.May 2015 May 2015 Another Niko Savvas special that got the tongues wagging and the comments a-flowing The piece online that got expats frothing at the fingertips Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother Learning Vietnamese Lower your pitchforks and let Niko Savvas explain P ut on your Honesty Cape and place yourself in the following scenario: After you save the life of a Nigerian prince with the timely provision of your US$7. The densest concentration of people with Vietnamese ancestry outside of Vietnam is found in the United States.06 years 10. with all of the world’s delicacies at your fingertips.041. windowless room for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes. he invites you to his lavish palace in Abuja for a celebratory feast. however. After a fortnight and a half. If you studied seven days a week for three hours a day. where they constitute 0. Now compare this hypothetical scenario *Your correspondent hasn’t read the book. Now compare this hypothetical scenario to your real-life experience. along with tongues such as Finnish. Or you could spend a couple of hours learning Vietnamese numbers and interesting things to yell at taxi drivers. The FSI designates Vietnamese as one of the most difficult Category IV languages to learn. In an international context. wordvietnam. in which the hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly while you beg to know the location of the restroom. people recognised the value of a bridge language. Vietnamese is not a particularly rich literary. there are exceptions to this rule — mathematical savants. Full Article: http://wordvietnam.500 wire transfer. assume that Gladwell is bad at maths and that you can become fluent in Vietnamese with 1. it would take you several years to reach this point. There are no Vietnamese equals to Haruki Murakami or Bong Joon-Ho. and broader access to global culture) justify this sacrifice of resources.000 hours to truly master a skill. then you don’t need much Vietnamese. either — the number of jobs requiring proficiency in Vietnamese is roughly equivalent to the number of jobs that require applicants to have excellent fire-swallowing skills.6 days – 1. either. Non-native speakers have to give up a lot to achieve this proficiency: time. would probably be a much better use of your time anyway — Vietnamese is more or less useless outside of Vietnam. child prodigies and so on. switching seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon accents. several college-ruled notebooks. Chances are good that you’re not a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind. Then you could take a moment to consider where you’d like to watch the next World Cup.000 hours to earn your metaphorical Expert badge. you). then devote yourself to becoming a better painter or tuba player or dessert chef — to doing something that might enrich the world.7 days — 2. Which. After nearly a year of doing this every day. The prince decrees that every notable dish from every global cuisine will be provided for your dining pleasure. energy and money.06 years 10. Learning Vietnamese is considerably more challenging than trying to dust off your high school Spanish. As Gladwell himself probably says*.7 days — 2. the opportunity cost of studying Vietnamese is much less favourable. It isn’t going to help you work. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. Foreign Service Institute (FSI). Lingua francas exist because they are efficient — by mastering one language. you).com L earning Vietnamese is not worth your time. Estonian and Magyar. Compared with Asian pop culture trendsetters like Japan and South Korea.006 percent of the population. several college-ruled notebooks. child prodigies and so on. Unless you’re planning to spend a very long time in Vietnam. So. Most sixyear-olds are more likely to swallow a chess piece than use it as part of a brilliant Steinitz Defense. But the tangible benefits of learning English (higher wages. To illustrate.85 years Let’s pretend that you could master Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning linguist. This is “three hours of gulag work camp. there are exceptions to this rule — mathematical | May 2015 Word | 193 wordvietnam.85 years Let’s pretend that you could master Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning linguist. Anders Ericcson.000 hours — 416. There is a catch. But these people are rare. as there always is with Nigerian princes: you can only have one plate.041. A more elaborate explanation: no. then roam all the way to India. Opportunity Cost But if a person is going to live in Vietnam. switching seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon accents. rather than assuage your societally conditioned guilt. Native English speakers have it easy. You’re giving up too many of your available non-working/sleeping/ eating hours for a skill that loses nearly all its value the moment you leave the country.14 years 25. so long as he had a decent grasp of Arabic. This isn’t “three hours of half-hearted listening to podcasts or watching subtitled movies”.14 years 25.000 hours — 1. easier travel. which is more likely). then you already know that it takes roughly 10. consider the following numbers: 500 hours — 20. If your answer isn’t “the same technoblaring coffee shop I’m in now”. shouldn’t he or she learn the language? Isn’t it a bit rude and presumptuous to assume that you can move to a foreign country and expect the local people to speak your language? The quick answer: no. you can suddenly communicate with people from many places. Learning Vietnamese would seem to be an excellent time investment.8 days — 0. you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng Viet. Learning Vietnamese would seem to be an excellent time investment. as part of the world’s largest-ever buffet table. you’d be able to bargain more effectively for mangos. After a fortnight and a | April 2016 Word | 71 . A Language Limited in Range and Function You’re not alone. and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar. windowless room for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes. the psychologist whose work Outliers is based on. All you’d need to do is lock yourself in a dank. according to the U.000 hours — 1. Vietnamese is a Category IV language with “significant linguistic and/or cultural differences from English”. cinematic or musical language either. They’re inherently adept at the world’s most versatile language.6 days – 1. if you think about it. In light of Ericcson’s findings. consider the following numbers: 500 hours — 20. No one is breathlessly predicting the rise of V-Pop.000 hours” figure itself is suspiciously precise. to your real-life experience. Vietnamese artists produce little of note. And the “10. All you’d need to do is lock yourself in a dank.000 hours to truly master a skill. how much plate-space would you devote to Vietnamese cuisine? Your correspondent’s answer: zero percent. As Gladwell himself probably says. Chances are good that you’re not a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind. then you already know that it takes roughly 10. In light of Ericcson’s findings.000 hours — 416. The bestproduced TV programmes are knockoffs of western shows like MasterChef or Vietnam’s Got Talent. in which the hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly while you beg to know the location of the restroom. and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar.S. Niko Savvas believes there are much more useful things you could be doing I f you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers. though.8 days — 0. More realistically.000 hours of practice. it would take you about 333 days to hit your target. Niko Savvas believes there are much more useful things you could be doing 192 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam. com/people-culture/the-big-story/ vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great Unless you’re a lifer. speaking Vietnamese isn’t going to help you travel. later found that it may take anywhere from 500 to 25. The Vietnamese Consulate General in Houston estimated the total number of overseas Vietnamese at around four million in 2014. In the days of the Umayyad Caliphate. you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng Viet.

Tram has been a friend for four the-final-say/visa-privilege Jesse Meadows has gone home to the US for a vacation. The challenges Vietnamese people face when they wish to visit the socalled First World stunned me. It’s ironic. family and acquaintances are asking about her adopted home s I write this. I am home for the holidays in Florida. It’s the first time I’ve been home to see my family and friends since I left over a year ago. where school shootings have become the norm. I’ve compiled my favourites. getting a visa to travel to the West is hard. coming from a country like America. following laws.November 2015 January 2016 One of our recent online pieces that went viral The one that drew out all those Americans without a sense of humo(u)r Visa Privilege If you’re Vietnamese. Everywhere. killing a chicken with my bare hands for dinner. sometimes I get the feeling my friends back home picture me living in a bamboo hut in the middle of a rice field. this idea is rooted in memories of a past that Vietnam has collectively moved on from. and hearing the stamp thwack in my passport. why on Earth did I need to ask anyone’s permission to travel? I’d been to 25 countries on three continents. and they understandably have questions. Extremely so. right before delving into a rant about . I don’t know. I do my best to contain my eye-rolling and attempt to patiently explain the realities of my life in Hanoi. Full article: http:// wordvietnam. a place that is hard for most Americans to imagine. nor was I to realise how much until I helped my friend Tram apply for a tourist visa to the United States so she could meet her fiancé’s family. enduring border control’s bored scrutiny. riding a buffalo to work and. after a month of answering the same clueless queries. Is it safe? My uncle asked me this. “My little world traveller!” they say. spending money. America’s land of golf courses and 72 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. visas meant showing up like an unexpected guest. just to visit for a month. The concept seemed vaguely offensive. Here are what friends. Getting a visa to the US is even harder. patting me on the head. Full article: http://wordvietnam. I was privileged. Owen Salisbury helped a friend who went through the visa application experience and was turned down 10 Questions Americans Ask About Vietnam I A was 30 the first time I had to apply for a visa. And so. With her fiancé temporarily in the US. “What are you doing in Thailand?!” Some questions are smarter than others. Do you have electricity? You know. she asked me to help prepare her tourist (B-1) visa application. Not to move there. and my dad shows off his gun collection at the dining room table. Do you tell people you’re Canadian? Specific to the fact that I’m American.

Tick. the most famous of them have all been shot elsewhere. it read ‘Kingdom’ — but was preceded by ‘Toilet’? Yup. This amazing cloud would just come through the village at night-time. And so the scripture read: “Thy kingdom come. also the Philippines. where the one room in the coffee shop you usually don’t want to see has taken centre stage. It was quite amazing. Sweeping aerial shots of Halong Bay.” “Even in the downtime there were shots to be had. when the bomb goes off outside the old Continental Hotel. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam. While the country itself has been the subject of A scene from The Quiet American directed by Phillip Noyce many a film. Traditionally though. in every aspect of film making. crediting him with the look of the climactic scenes of the movie. The Quiet American. which most booksellers will have a copy of. Technical expertise. but they disappeared. with so many elements working in its favour. drone footage of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. still a tick. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam. While the country itself has been the subject of many a film. Right? Well. A low-cost economy. a low-cost economy. drone footage of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. also the Film in Vietnam By Ed Weinberg Toilet Kingdom Beautiful scenery. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. Beautiful scenery. These are just a few of the images that immediately come to mind. urine for some potty humour. These are just a few of the images that immediately come to mind. and that’s without mentioning the people. Any cinematographer or photographer worth their salt loves coming back to this country. apparently not. let’s see. One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel. quite spectacular. the most famous of them have all been shot elsewhere. Bathroom mirrors with stray toothbrushes and bottles of shampoo are scattered throughout. “We didn’t realize how efficient Vietnamese filmmakers were. the deserts of Dubai. That’s par for the course at Toilet Kingdom. It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines. It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines. This had included the snowy hinterlands of central Europe. the city of Prague and cage diving with Great White sharks in South Africa. Little streamers with happy buzzing flies adorn the walls and ceilings. Sweeping aerial shots of Halong Bay. the writing was on the wall.” No wait. Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986).” he said. a low-cost economy. which most booksellers will have a copy of. filming in Vietnam has been difficult. The Vietnamese government were very helpful in helping us to find locations.” Blockbuster Traditionally though. “We thought there would be big challenges. You sit on toilets with Angry Bird cushions. D own a Binh Thanh back alley.” he said. it was so ethereal and surreal. The director himself said this about shooting in Saigon. and it’s the usual suspects Jeremy Clarkson rides through the streets of Vietnam in the Top Gear: Vietnam Special wordvietnam. April 2015). people-culture/the-big-story/film-in-vietnam Film in Vietnam Beautiful scenery. and that’s without mentioning the people. Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986). during a 2011 interview. Sean Izzard. Tick.January 2016 October 2014 A piece that got a comment from a famous film director Our most-read café review on | April 2016 Word | 73 . One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel. drink out of little potties and bathtubs on glass tables over sinks with glitter and fake trees inside. and heaped praise on his second unit director Dang Nhat Minh especially. even back then (the film was released in 2002). The Quiet American.” Noyce expressed his surprise in terms of the level of technical expertise available to him. was the stills photographer on the 21-day | January 2016 Word | 67 wordvietnam. technical expertise. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. Any cinematographer or photographer worth their salt loves coming back to this country. Tick in the Ointment So. T here’s no denying that Vietnam looks stunning on film. technical expertise. filming in Vietnam has been difficult. When I was lucky enough to be part of a big Australian beer ad that shot last year in Hanoi and Sapa (see ‘I shot a big beer ad’. “Vietnam was the highlight for me. com/food-drink/coffee-cup/ coffee-cup-hcmc-toilet-kingdom T here’s no denying that Vietnam looks stunning on film. “Especially travelling up north into the mountains of Sapa. and getting people to co-operate with the production. a twenty-five year veteran and part of the highly respected creative group The Pool Collective in Sydney. I joined up with a professional crew who’d literally travelled the world in search of the perfect visual landscape for their story. Surely Vietnam should be a veritable goldmine for big budget television and film production.

Did You Know?
In preparing for our 100th issue spectacular, staff writer
Owen Salisbury assembled a list of Word-related trivia
that will leave you puzzled as to how he ever managed to
function in polite society
Did you know…
— Word was founded in April, 1988? It
was originally chief editor Nick Ross’
neo-modernist Basque poetry fanzine!
— Word routinely hides at least one joke
image and one fake story per issue?
There’s even a VND150,000 prize to
the first astute reader who finds all 228
examples. Bonus to the reader who finds
the issue we never actually printed!
— Word editorial budgets have gone up by
at least 8% a year for the last eight years?
We salute their professionalism and
— Word is on the VIP guest list at
Apocalypse Now? Because, why not?
— The most common cause of wounding
and maiming for Word employees is
duelling? … but that the most common
cause of death for Word employees
is classified
— Word used to employ a number of writers
who went on to fame and fortune? We
count such literary lights as Marcel
Proust, Choderlos de Laclos, Salman
Rushdie and that tool who wrote The
Notebook among our alumni!
— In his 14-year career with the Word, staff
editor Jon Aspin has never been late with
a story? Talk about dedication!
— Word graphic designers actually create
all pictures pixel by pixel in PhotoShop?
We haven’t printed a genuine
photograph since 2006!

74 | Word April 2016 |

— Word has never knowingly employed a
member of the Illuminati?
— Word was founded in April of 1871 by
French explorer Pierre-Christian BoisBlois de Montchien, renowned for
bringing both polo and polio to the
highlands of Laos? It was originally a
journal for recording the hallucinations
caused by his tertiary syphilis.
— Word loves monkeys? Our office monkey
Milo routinely contributes articles under
a nom de plume!
— Word was founded by time travellers in
both space and the future?
— While compiling this list, Word staff
writer Owen Salisbury almost died of
anaphylactic shock, yet almost finished
the article nearly on time? Talk about
— Word was a popular write-in candidate
in the recent Presidential elections in the
Gambia? We garnered an amazing 781
votes, or 3.3% of the total!
— Word can steal your soul? Whatever you
do, don’t hold it up to a mirror and chant
“Blood Mary” three times while turning
widdershins. We had enough trouble
with the zombies last time!
— Word invented Scrabble and jamon Iberico
— on the same day?
— Creative director, photographer and
head pontiff Mads Monsen won the

ArtPrize twice in the last four years
for his work on the Word — without
officially entering? Talk about dedication!
— Word can be used to tell the future?
Using a combination of Qabalah and
von Hausaufgabe’s Geometric Sieve,
future events are clearly spelled out in
our pages. Last year, we found detailed
predictions for 9/11, 7/7, and of course
for 6/6! Actually, we’re fairly scared
about that last one. We plan to be out of
the continent when it happens! You
should, too! Run, people! Run!
— Word was founded as part of a sealed
plea agreement in April of 1999? We’d
love to tell you more but the judge would
throw us back in prison and we can’t go
back there, man! We just can’t!
— Word has contingency stories written
to cover plague, alien invasion, and the
Canadian conquest of the USA?
— That one of these is the whole and
unvarnished truth? We dare you to find
it! Not counting this one, of course,
because that would be a dishonest and
petty trick.

This article is dedicated to the memory of
official Word historian and photo editor Kyle
“Krushpuss” Phanroy who left the country
earlier this year after a yodelling accident in
the Tyrolean Alps. You’ll be missed, you old

Seven Creative
Uses of Word
Yes, we’re more than just classroom fodder for
teaching English and something for wiping your
nose on. We promise! Here’s a little something
to get them juices flowing


reativity is a watchword here
at the Word, and we think you
salary-drones should be more
creative, too. Arm yourself with
these tips and find new, exciting uses for
all those back issues of Word we know
you’re hoarding.
But be warned — this is the advanced list.
You won’t find simple collaging, origami or
ransom notes here.
Still here? Newbies scared off? Great! Let’s
get started.

Sticks and Stones
Given its density and resilience, thick
enough layers of paper can stop fists, knives
and clubs. So the next time your gang is
going to rumble with the Jets in the old pork
crackling plant, armour up with the Word.
Slip two to three issues under your shirt at
strategic locations, and voila — instant death
Pro tip: with enough duct tape, Word
can also be creatively applied to guard
your face. Be sure to apply at least three
issues to the top, back and sides, then roll
ones up to frame the face and protect the
nose. Tape liberally in place. Leave room
for eye slits and a breathing hole. Bye-bye
bike helmets! And if you should meet an
excitingly gruesome death, at least you’ll go
out looking good.
*Unless they have guns, of course, in which
case your friends at least won’t have to mop up as
much blood — made from 100% recycled paper
and crushed literary hopes, Word is actually very
hygroscopic. Which leads us to…

Out, Damned Spot!
Got tough stains to get out from where
your friend Velvet Elvis puked up those
durian daiquiris? Back issues of Word make
a fantastic surface cleaner. Our unique
cesium-based inks will gently irradiate
the stains away as our 100% recycled

76 | Word April 2016 |

polymer paper shaves off each offending
molecule out with its famous atomically
sharp edges!
Pro tip: Caesium is carcinogenic — but
don’t worry, the polymer will have stripped
your skin and muscle away long before
any tumours can form, unless the ionizing
radiation gets you first. Use in a wellventilated area, preferably in a different

Iron Rations
Starving? Trapped on a tropical island with
nothing but back issues of Word? Not to
worry! Individually woven from strands
of baby vole skin, our 100% organic vellum
is actually edible — and tastes great when
gently grilled and served with grubs and
presumably edible jungle flowers!
Pro tip: given our printer’s patented
lithium-based Lithion Metallic Ink, you
won’t even mind you’re trapped on a
deserted island — hell, you might not even
notice after a while.

Brighten Up That Room A Little
Nothing brightens up a room like gorgeous
photos on slick magazine paper. If your
room is drab, try papering the walls with
issues of Word. It’ll be like having all of us
here at Word… in there with you… staring
down at you, all night long!

Metal Detectors Don’t Detect
Got an enemy inside who just needs to be
taken care of? Did El Ratel over in Block B
disrespect your colours? Never fear, Word is
here — and soon to be there, wedged in El
Ratel’s spine.
As any prison guards will tell you, Word
is the number one choice of convicts, killers,
roisterers, nogoodniks and yard-shankers
around the world.

Jesse Meadows. Kaitlin Rees. Mark Allan. Huynh Hau. Julia Plevin. Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien. Suzie Meiklejohn. you’re not only giving the gift of literacy in 200 pages of slick layout. but we also love being loved. Francis Xavier. Rose Arnold. Tran Huynh The Vu. Jon Aspin. Voila — instant death machine! All you have to do next is shank until the guards club you off. Mads Monsen. get convicted of a horrible. Fabiola Buchele. Karen Hewell. Stephanie Cantrell. so they know it’s all about them. Derek Milroy. or as a substitute for lucky money at Tet! Remember. Charlie Barnes. Marc Forster-Pert. David Stout. Thin Lei Win. securing it with contraband duct tape or dozens of rubber bands. Nguyen Tan Loc. Brian Letwin. You Shouldn’t Have For our readers who like to pinch pennies. Yves Schiepek. Duong Vy Bao and Nick Ross . Peter Stuckings. Disclaimer: the Word Magazine. Kyle Phanroy. Douglas Pyper. Smuggle in your back issues of Word. James Allen. LLC. Patiently grind it against the concrete floor until you’ve achieved a wickedly sharp point. into wedding envelopes. Tal Cohen. Julie Vola. Slip a VND500. Quinn Ryan Mattingly. Khoa Tran. Le Dang Phuong Trang. endorses none of these ideas and thinks they are terrible and probably harmful. but feel vaguely guilty because you’re getting so much joy and possibility free. Second. Try replacing all the names in articles with the name of the gift recipient. Paolo Maling. Duncan Forgan. Francis Roux. Rico Gonzalez. Alexandre Garel. Jim Abril. Galen Stolee. which is very cool Brian Webb. too. David Mann. Ed Weinberg. colourful photos and page after page of ads. Owen Salisbury. horrible crime and sent up for life. too — we may love money. Linh Phanroy. Pro tip: Not enough time to grind? No fear. You can also glue your face onto every photo. Word can also be used to beat. Christine Van. but watch out: El Ratel is probably packing a copy of Word. Here are some of them: Not sure how to proceed? It’s easy! First. roll your copy of Word as tightly as possible into a cylinder. Bailey Seybolt. John Thornton. EJ Chung. smash and suffocate. into Christmas stockings. Niko Savvas.000 note between each page. David Harris. Don’t hesitate to send love notes to your favourite Word personalities. ensuring they know exactly who got them this amazing gift! Pay It Backwards or Forwards or Something If you enjoy our stimulating. show love and frugality by slipping old copies of Word to beggars. and drop it off at Word offices to let us know just how much you’ve loved all 100 issues of our Pulitzer and Nobel-prize winning magazine. Except the last one. Vu Ha Kim Vy. then this is the one for you.Special Thanks Many. Duong Thi Thanh Xuan. you’re also saving the planet by recycling those old copies! Pro tip: Don’t hesitate to personalize. many people have made these past 100 issues happen. Elisabeth Rosen. Hoa Le. Sarah Johnson. Debbie Clare. Dominic Blewett. seal it in an envelope. Ian Paynton. so you stare back out at them from every page. Vu Minh Tri. nutritious content month in and month out. Chau Giang. Aaron Joel Santos.

com .Insider 78 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.

We have been out of the country for the last month and the symptoms have gone away. vomiting. also a regular haunt. BWT. so I’m concerned it’s related to the water here. confusion. As I started researching this article. When the results came back I neither had a virus nor a bacterial infection. It was uncanny.” goes the writer. Neither place had ever given me food poisoning. The night before I’d eaten banh mi trung at a place in the Old Quarter I’d frequented for over a decade. the level of arsenic was between 41 and 43 percent above the safe limit. It doesn’t make for good reading. arsenic. Now it’s entered the water system. Bangladesh. “My girlfriend and I have been living in Hanoi for six years. The symptoms of arsenic poisoning start with headaches. Mongolia. The next morning I ate bun bo nam bo at a West Lake eatery. cramping muscles. Which suggests that this metalloid has got into the city’s water system. a one off? Or is the whole of the city affected by contamination? We decided to find out for ourselves. Words and photos by Nick Ross A ron shows me an email. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends a limit of 0. the various forms of this metalloid are normally harmless. had a blood test and spent two hours on a drip. With a home testing kit in hand.01 mg/litre (10 parts per billion) of arsenic in drinking water. The doctors suggested that maybe I didn’t have food poisoning after all. severe diarrhoea and drowsiness. The Red River Delta in northern Vietnam as well as places as far flung as Chile. I found another possible source for my mysterious illness. Buried deep inside the earth’s crust. Yet two days in and I was getting worse. constantly tired and had odd bouts of dizziness. Recently he was called into a villa compound in the Long Bien area of Hanoi to test the water. Here it seemed that this was exactly what had happened.INSIDER HANOI Arsenic and Old Lace Hanoi has a problem with arsenic.” The Vietnam distributor of the Germanmade water filter brand. stomach pain wordvietnam. blood in the urine. over the past year Aron has discovered that his experience is not unique. The results from Aron’s test showed that during two different periods in February. Yet was this an anomaly. So I went to the | April 2016 Word | 79 . I was dehydrated. hair loss. Taiwan and even the western US are known to contain large deposits of arsenic. unless they manage to get into the water. diarrhoea and acute headaches didn’t make sense. Aron and I spent a day testing the water in Hanoi. vomiting blood. Yet the sudden bout of nausea. “We are suffering from most of the symptoms of arsenic poisoning. while acute levels of the metalloid can lead to diarrhoea. Poisoned? In mid-January I came down with what I thought was food poisoning.

One came from a restaurant that uses pre-filtered water. that bring the metalloid up to the surface. I was fortunate.094 mg/l. that bring the metalloid up to the surface” 80 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. After a week I was back to normal. The water from West Lake. large numbers of houses have wells. Historically Hanoi has had a water shortage. was surprisingly untainted — the test showed .“Historically Hanoi has had a water shortage. but many of them were dug into shallow layers of ground that had naturally occurring arsenic. however. A recent study led by Dr. It is these wells. both just under the WHO limit.088 mg/l and 0. The Tests We started our journey with two samples from the Tay Ho area of West Lake. dug deep down into the earth and into the layer where there is a concentration of arsenic. The other from West Lake itself. To make up for the lack of water. The final result is coma and death.000 Bangladeshis for over a decade and discovered that more than 20 percent of deaths were caused by arsenic. dug deep down into the earth and into the layer where there is a concentration of arsenic. but it did make me ask a question. Habibul Ahsan of the University of Chicago found that as many as 77 million people — half the population — may have been exposed to toxic levels of arsenic. After putting in three doses of different chemicals to the testing bottle. The study followed nearly 12. the litmus paper with the restaurant water turned a very light yellow. could the whole of the city’s water system be at fault? This is exactly what has happened in Bangladesh over the past 35 years. Could I have eaten something made with contaminated well water? Or as Aron had speculated over several phone conversations. but it was just on the limit. Millions of tube wells were drilled in the 1970s to provide villagers with clean water. contaminating the water. This was commensurate with some recent tests Aron had conducted of the water at the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu — 0. It is these wells. shaking and waiting 20 minutes. The water was contaminated with arsenic. To make up for the lack of and convulsions. large numbers of houses have wells.

html wordvietnam. Capital Tower. Dong Da. Floor M ERCK 10th floor.O Room | April 2016 Word | 81 .com sea. 292 Tay Son. Kinh Do Building. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 8860 merck.blogspot. 6162 / (08) 2220 5371 hachvietnam. 109 Tran Hung Dao.hach. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3533 3355 ext. H ACH V IETNAM R.Testing Kits Two companies produce arsenic testing kits that are available in Hanoi. Hoan Kiem. V-Reex The cost for 100 tests is approximately VND3 million.

82 | Word April 2016 | .

lead normal lives. However. a fact backed up by the WHO. What was interesting was the ice that was ‘bought in’.com | April 2016 Word | 83 . you should brush your teeth with mineral water. from two and a half times. the thought was horrific.003 mg/l to 0. His Hanoi showroom is on the ground floor of the Syrena Center Shopping Mall. we have to survive. we would find ourselves using La Vie or an equivalent for everything. Anionic exchange systems are usually point-of-entry systems. One batch came from a restaurant that buys the ice in. “Maybe it’s time to drink water from West Lake. our guess is that the ice was made outside the main city. Both came back with low levels of arsenic — around the 0. then there are two expensive options. same problem. In other words. what other solutions are there? “I believe arsenic can’t be absorbed through the skin. can be found at water-filter-vietnam. What Does this Mean? If my personal bout of sickness was indeed arsenic poisoning. Neither do standard water filtration systems.the arsenic levels at 0. if you do feel you’ve contracted arsenic poisoning or if you’re worried about it. as in my case. Tel: 0943 337633 or 0911 459033 “Buried deep inside the earth’s crust. they are among the hardest substances to filter out of the water system. then information on Aron’s products. 51 Xuan Dieu. The results were disturbing. then so will elsewhere. test the water where you live to find out for yourself. they are very costly. we couldn’t tell. chromium and arsenic. However. As many people can’t afford this. stop eating at two particular eateries. the various forms of this metalloid are normally harmless. Not only is it impractical. Could West Lake water turn out to be safer than tap water? Experiment number two was also conducted in the West Lake area. Coffee is another thing to avoid. But it would be fair to conclude that with so many wells in this area. which states that any skin absorption is minimal. However. Boiling makes no difference. Studies have shown that reverse osmosis can be up to 95 percent effective in the removal of arsenic.” Aron joked. BWT. meaning that they treat all water coming into the home.025 mg/l and 0. We then headed to the Old Quarter and did our next test at an establishment that we know uses a well. Likewise. washing your hands and so on is absolutely fine. iron. To avoid everything or anything that could potentially be contaminated with arsenic would be the equivalent of not living at all.05 mg/l. As for pho and other noodle soups. Whether the water we sampled came from the well or the water system. It’s impossible to know whether the water is contaminated or not. If you do want to filter the substance out. then perhaps it’s time to make some adjustments.” says Aron. “This means that showering. the ice made in house suggested that arsenic contamination varies from place to place. Filters To find out more about what water filters are available. location to location.005 mg/ bia hoi produced in Central Hanoi — and being careful about where you get your ice from. The first solution is reverse osmosis. Or even better.” Other things he suggests are avoiding bia hoi — or at least. the other from a place that makes it on-site. while trapping larger inorganic molecules like lead. Maybe move apartment or house — the water supply could be contaminated — or perhaps. With water supply a problem in Hanoi. Using a physical or chemical process to exchange ions between a resin bed and water passing through. thus meaning it used water not contaminated with the poison. these systems soften water. as we wouldn’t know what water has been used for cooking and for washing the fruit and vegetables. The other option is an anionic exchange system. Tay Ho. it’s impossible. The system works by forcing water through a special. We couldn’t go to restaurants or eat street food. Here contamination was high — somewhere between 0. The membrane has microscopic pores that are specially sized to allow water molecules through. if this restaurant is affected. unless they manage to get into the water” wordvietnam. Forget coffee or perhaps even non-imported beer. remove iron and manganese. Considering that raw sewage gets pumped into the lake. Ultimately if we live in Hanoi. The problem is that because arsenic particles are so microscopic. to five times the acceptable limit.005 mg/l. then this is a worry. And as for water usage at home. selective membrane. but this time with melted ice. and lower nitrate and arsenic levels.

Insider INSIDER PHOTO ESSAY Night and Day at the Flower Market Jesse Meadows has found a new place to hang out in Hanoi — the oasis that is the flower market on Au Co 84 | Word April 2016 | .

com | April 2016 Word | 85 .wordvietnam.

86 | Word April 2016 | .

(It’s true.) Between drinks with Andrew. yellow. Then. Other delicacies abound. our favourite food stand vendors. surrounded on all sides by red. and moved to Hanoi from central Vietnam to take advantage of the city’s business.“I don’t care what country you go to. a sort of midnight language exchange. The delicious deep-fried pho in the shape of a pizza had become a late-night delicacy for us. purple and green. you will find something rare for a street market — peace and fragrance. studied cooking in school. A Brisk Trade It was months before I even set foot on the flower side of the market. dipping a piece of pho ran into his soy sauce and stuffing his face. They work here for 12 hours every night. She likes serving the drunk Westerners. one table over. she says. They did this every | April 2016 Word | 87 . we knew there was always the flower market. For expats. But if you step past the row of food stands that line the dike road. You can wander in and out of the blossoms. When all the bars closed. shining like a fluorescent oasis in the small hours. so no one is likely hassle you for purchases. she produced a notebook. gnawing on boiled chicken feet. because they’re fun. it’s meant for wholesalers. and we could only find it here. Nga. where Andrew would write English words for her in return.” said my friend Chris. cooking in shifts and taking naps on a small cot next to their stove. this is one of those special places. Nga would write Vietnamese words on her hand and teach him how to pronounce them. I’ve found myself caught up in a few sloppy sing-a-longs around her tables in the past. 25. flower villages on the outskirts of Hanoi that have since been absorbed into the city due wordvietnam. Andrew. At night. I spied another friend. the place is synonymous with midnight munchies and Bia Hanoi nightcaps. and how long you live. and they like to sing instead of fight. kicking back shots of ruou with Nga and her husband. We’d developed a sense of loyalty to Nga and her pho ran. There are roses from Vinh Tuy and chrysanthemums from Tay Tuu.

Sometimes housewives will come in the early morning to buy bouquets. too. there was no sign of her. This was the last place I saw him. she smiled and answered in English. no sentimentality in sight. They’re all selling the same peach blossom trees. They stay open until noon to meet demand. who have since moved away. not even one plastic chair or banh my sign in her usual spot. But today. as fresh flowers are necessary to adorn altars and brighten the home for visiting family. And that’s the mark of a special place. Before holidays like Tet. but usually the market packs up before the sun gets too high. But whatever draws us here. She worries that she won’t sell enough. like early morning hunger or a late night’s work. the market has become an intersection for cultural Hanoi’s rapid urbanisation. Andrew has since moved away. where I see memories of times I felt truly happy. a 60-year-old woman who has been working here for the last 20 years. When light begins to creep over the horizon. Tay Ho was also known for its flower-growing in the past. I returned to Chi for more pho ran a couple months after I saw her and Andrew eating chicken feet. Mai. Her fears echo in other vendors’ cries: “Buy from me! Buy from me!” It’s a hectic scene. Like its beginnings as a meeting point for flower peddlers. But for these women. though. . We may be driven by different motivations. with friends like Chris. It can be a stressful time for vendors. and the market here began as a makeshift meeting point for growers from neighbouring districts to sell their products. seemed especially concerned. I immediately remembered their casual language lessons. but he’s left an imprint behind. This time. the women must work light on a sidewalk I’ve only known in the dark feels uncanny. lined up along the dike road where Nga would set up shop later that night. when I ordered food in my broken Vietnamese. so she keeps her stand open as much as her health allows. the flower ladies will take the stock they’ve bought before dawn and fan out into the city to sell throughout the day. and the stark morning 88 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. The abnormally cold temperatures this winter have threatened her flower supply and driven prices up. the flower market is a site where we can trade more than just money. though. it’s business as usual. too. It’s a place that holds so much meaning for me.

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com .000) which met our expectations. You can also find other types of clients that would rather hang out with some blended juices instead of clubbing. We were about to become nocturnal souls in search of cafés that open all night long.000) and a peach ice tea (VND34. at 90 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. he far side of the canal from District 3. No panic. Q3 Drinks: 3.Insider INSIDER HCMC 24 Hour Cafes A The March 51 Tran Quang Dieu. There are many kinds of customers that frequent these spots late at night. The March is an average. From the classic group of friends that gathers around midnight with their computers to play online games — using smartphones. Photos by Francis Xavier t the stroke of midnight the mission started. sits an ancient video console so you can play arcade games until the sun rises. Here crowds of men in their 20s meet to play computer games and get a buzz from tra da and cigarettes. Ahead of us there were a few hours and drinks to experience the other side of the night. classic Vietnamese café that is modestly decorated with some tiny tables and chairs. Phu Nhuan. in case you didn’t bring your A-game or any company with you. was set as the beginning of the tour. T the entrance.5 stars Decor: Simple Ambience: Good and relaxed Reasons to go: To hang out and play video games Natalia Martínez went on a hunt for cafés that open the entire night and offer a place to hang out until sunrise. It turns out that Ho Chi Minh City — another of those big metropolises that never sleeps — offers a wide list of cafés that remain open 24 hours to cover every customer’s need. Most of these cafés are gathered around District 1 and District 3. tablets and computers at the same time without taking an eye off their screens — to the ones that seek a quiet place as a retreat to get some work done. gathering all kinds of people and stories. Meanwhile. we got involved with some serious arcade action and over numerous battles — playing Street Fighter — delayed our next stop. The first drinks of our night were a very average ca phe sua da (VND24.

000. | April 2016 Word | 91 . CI5 Café has a coffee machine which makes an excellent latte for VND32. the upstairs floor has a terrace from where you can look out at the night. perfect if you are looking for somewhere to spend the night finishing stuff that you have left undone. Q3 Drinks: 5 stars Decor: A nice mix resulting from retro and hipster tools Ambience: A very homey place Reasons to go: To work or chill A quiet and adorable place. There is plenty of room — stuffed with retro-hip decorations — where you can get comfortable.CI5 Café 243 Le Van Sy.

This outside café is almost entirely made of wood and occupies the path with its miniature sets of stools and tables. They have a few spots around the .G Café 65 Ho Xuan Huong. although the one we chose at 65 Ho Xuan Huong was not very inviting. you still have the opportunity for some people watching if it's not too late in the evening. Q3 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: Rustic Ambience: Ok Reasons to go: To hang out G Café follows the same style as the March. In G Café you will probably share the space with teenagers playing with their computers and watching YouTube videos. 92 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. If you are not into these two pastimes. The drinks here won’t kill you — the mosquitoes may — though they might disappoint you as the vanilla blend (VND39.000) did me.

My choice here was a wild berry soda for VND40. Its big terrace is an attraction. making me feel very jealous since it was already 3am.Step Up 32 Pham Hong | April 2016 Word | 93 . which I drank while one of the waitresses was having a cheeky nap on one of the tables. but sadly the selection and quality of the drinks is quite poor. Q1 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: Simple Ambience: Busy and good Reasons to go: To meet your buddies at late hours T his is just another option for people to hang out when night falls. wordvietnam.000. as is its rooftop.

which covered an intense Robusta coffee with a powerful smoky aroma. But to be fair. Behind a half-hipster. It had a thick layer of the fluffy mix of egg yolk and sweetened milk.000). so that was the chosen one for this stop. to old school bicycles. This remarkable spot is located at the beginning of this busy road. with room for 94 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Q1 Drinks: 5 stars Decor: Vintage. One of its signature drinks is the egg coffee. from vinyls. Hanoi-style (VND55. nothing beats the Heritage Café.com some shelves packed with vintage suitcases and big beautiful portraits of work by the French photographer Réhahn. . it hides a museum of beautiful gems hanging from its wall. halfvintage-looking facade.Heritage Café 10 Pasteur. with an excellent taste Ambience: Cosy Reasons to go: To indulge in style and play with English bulldogs P asteur Street hosts a few known cafés like The Factory Cafe and Thuc where night owls hang out sitting on the tiny toddler chairs spread out on the path.

but the quality location is quickly undermined by the disappointment of the café experience itself. the last stop being Unclosed Café. Q1 Drinks: 4 stars Decor: Simple yet nice Ambience: Relaxed Reasons to go: To work or chill A nd the tour came to its end. To call it a night. After entering the café we realized how tiny it was. Q1 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: simple Ambience: Solitary. if not depressing Reasons to go: To find some peace of mind T he corner location is excellent.Mr. killing time and waiting for their bus back to the Mekong Delta. Unclosed Café 85 Ho Tung Mau.000). And as it was meant to be. We ordered a lychee ice tea ( | April 2016 Word | 95 .000) and headed upstairs followed by a strange smell that I never managed to pinpoint. where we shared the room with a group of Vietnamese girls that were sleeping on the couches. drank the tea and watched the night. wordvietnam. who had fallen into a deep sleep. I ordered a strawberry yoghurt (VND49. and one of the tables on the ground floor was occupied by a girl dressed in school uniform. we sat by the big window. Once we heard the roosters starting to crow we knew it was time to go home. 8 2 Cach Mang Thang Tam. something smooth before going to bed and getting some sleep.

the décor is a mish-mash of styles. It was called ‘brut’.com on offer. ham.).000). you couldn’t do better. and pillows with natural images. which seems odd. although it also has salads. and are made with buckwheat flour.000) they also have more exciting ones (banana split. ham. perfect vessels for an end-of-meal sugar injection. on them. Once inside. Aside from the simple options (chocolate. or galettes with foie gras (VND235. like leaves or pineapples. so they are lighter in both texture and taste.000) or salmon (VND160. salty and meaty and nicely browned on the outside. and alcohol-free mocktails.000). with apples and camembert (VND150.000).000). Full of Crepe The menu features mostly crêpes. croque monsieur and paninis 96 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Behind a courtyard with high tables is a bar with dark wood in neat patterns on the ceiling. with egg. with clear plastic and other modern chairs mixed with colourful sofas and wooden antiques. or more unusual options.000 to VND65. wine. Hanoi . like the galette complète (VND125. jam and Nutella. which seemed more welcoming than the eclectic front rooms.000). and Tomme cheese from Moc Chau. honey. the restaurant has a clean black and white facade and an understated sign. fruit juices. which was fresh and fruity but not sweet. Panam’ is located at 26 Truong Han Sieu. Savoury crêpes (also called galettes) come from the Brittany region of France. each one with a sprig of dainty flowers. For a little taste of Europe. snickers. The menu is pretty. like a beaded curtain but without any beads. which makes them darker and more wholesometasting than the regular wheat ones. etc. The galette was delicious. everything arrived promptly.000). all around VND60. and settled in with high expectations.Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER HANOI Panam’ Fancy a crepe anyone? Our mystery diner certainly did when they headed to Truong Han Sieu for a taste of Brittany’s best-known dish. Opening its doors earlier this year. chocolate with mint ice cream. and although they did rush around a bit unnecessarily considering it was a slow night. and came with a fresh side salad drizzled in a mustard vinaigrette that made me want to lick my bowl clean (it’s ok. homemade salted butter caramel. I chose a galette complète Tomme (VND125. I was blown away by the food at Panam’. all sure to satisfy any sweet-tooth cravings from your inner five-year-old. cocktails. and also as a French restaurant. and emmental cheese. and the tables are plain wood. Panam’ describes itself on the one hand as a “creperie & salon de thé”. Photos by Julie Vola C overing all bases. I arrived with a friend and we quickly chose a spot in the back near the bar. Suzette. coffees. I didn’t!). which is French for amazing. The dessert crêpes are made from regular wheat flour. called ‘doux’. with egg. The impressive list of galettes includes standard choices. a selection of flavoured teas. lounge and café. like the well-named ‘Pommenbert’ galette. printed in a variety of fonts on brown paper. a perfect complement to the heavier flavours of the food. Cider and Galette To accompany the meal I sampled some Breton cider (VND75. Overall. It’s nice when the staff are as serious about getting my dinner to me as I am. Hoan Kiem. Mum. In the front room guests are greeted with a hanging thread curtain. The waiting staff were friendly and welcoming throughout. They also have a sweeter cider. if that’s your preference. After the galette and cider my lovely companion and I shared a crêpe with Nutella on it (VND65. probably. Other drinks on offer include beer.

Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.THE VERDICT 14 FOOD 13 SERVICE 12 DÉCOR Food.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals . 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.

try a piece of Vietnamese-styled chilled marinated bamboo The duck is marinated in the seasoning mixture for at least one hour to make sure the seasoning can seep into the meat. The eatery is open from 6am to 2pm for breakfast and lunch. it all begins with a perfect stuffing mixture made of finely chopped onion. then a bowl of broth and a few kinds of herbs and very fresh onion on top. a few slices of duck meat. which definitely spices up the broth and adds to the duck taste.000 a bowl . Vit Ngoc Phat is located at 96 Lo Duc. cardamom. Opened five years ago and claimed to be the first eatery to offer this new type of pho in Hanoi. and the chance to taste a pho vit quay sibling — bun vit tron or vermicelli with duck. pepper. First comes a bunch of noodles. Words by Huyen Tran. The Quan Vit 29 chain has a number of outlets. Hoan Kiem. the restaurant offers a wide range of duck dishes.” the chef says. yet the main ingredient — the duck.Food and Drink STREET SNACKER HANOI Pho Vit Quay Pho with roasted duck noodles? The street food variations in the capital know no bounds. There are not many eateries in town offering pho vit quay — one that features this very tasty dish is Vit Ngoc Phat 96 Lo Duc. Hai Ba Trung. As recommended by the chef. as duck ribs and necks are simmered in a big pot to produce the sweet and tasty broth for the pho. garlic. replacing beef or chicken — really does bring a different taste and a different mood to the dish. as it undergoes further cooking when placed in the boiling broth. take a spoon of fatty juice extracted from the stuffed stomach of the duck when roasted.” the restaurant’s chef says. Bun vit tron costs VND30. the restaurant attracts a lot of people both for its pho and its wide variety of duck dishes. and from 4pm to 9pm for dinner. This also helps kill bad odours as well as produce glossy. the duck meat is both juicy and tender. Both of these restaurants also offer a delicious whole duck takeaway for eating at home. the Quan Vit 29 restaurant chain is another awesome spot to taste duck that is meaty and delicious. 98 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. mouth-watering duck skin when roasted over coals. The dish uses similar ingredients for the broth. Next. For someone who loves all things duck. Hanoi near the crossroads with Nguyen Cong Tru.000 per bowl. Photos by Julie Vola P ho vit quay may sound a bit strange to some people and could be said to be a variation of Hanoi’s traditional and signature pho bo and pho ga. “Regarding the meat. All of these make up a tempting bowl of pho. “Cooked whole then served finely carved into pieces. Besides pho vit quay. among which vit ap chao or fried duck stewed in a savoury sweet sauce is another of its signature dishes. anise and la moc mat. Pho vit quay is VND30. According to the owner. one of which is located downtown at 24 Nguyen Huu Huan. this pho has its origins in Vietnam’s northern province of Lang Son and its taste reflects Lang Son’s signature style of roasting the duck with a local herb called la moc mat. In The Simmer Time The pho vit quay broth is another element that bring a real difference in taste compared to traditional pho. The chef added that duck to be used for pho is cooked slightly less than duck used for dishes that will be immediately served.

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Chocolate and Lemon I appreciated the breadth of the drinks menu. Sweet and Tart. a Continental breeze in Southeast Asia. Q1. yet we only nibbled.000). It tasted great. a touch I appreciate as long as the salt shaker is nearby. the less I eat French fries. the older I get. sweet and intense. a sizable wine list and a top shelf of spirits that went on forever… then my date tapped my motorbike key. To learn more. an excellent highnote with the fragrant. The space flows well. Both cuts of meat came with hefty cupfuls of fries. My first impressions supported one idea mentioned by them all — the restaurant feels very European. The most novel taste came from the house-brewed Marou chocolate liqueur. left us a bit let-down at how little food it held. despite its low cost. we turn on the landing to see a huge space. smiling blond man with his hand outstretched for a shake.000). but I had to ask for more bread to support the rich 100 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. HCMC. Café-Restaurant is new. gorgeous old tiles crowned by a lovely wall painting of French doctor Albert Calmette. we went for the Western options. and a tall. bursting with aromatic basil. a marble-and-brass bar.000 but dropped off gratis by the smiling owner. wrapped in paper in a manner that strongly reminded me of the Netherlands — minus the mayonnaise. light and smooth. The restaurant is also divided by theme. the formal dining tables. The Continental Touch While the menu offers a variety of Vietnamese dishes. we went decadent: the Pur’ (VND160. The décor is spare but high quality. We took a side of pesto pasta (VND60. The house-brewed limoncello (VND160. The accompanying roasted veggies were crisp and lightly glazed with oil.000) after a brief debate over the duck breast. steaming rolls with a dish of an intriguingly green spread. For dessert. though the open seating plan lends itself to parties and large groups. oak furniture. Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City’s central location makes it a great place to pop in for dinner on your way to the theatre or the opera. Seating was prompt due to the late hour. Perhaps not the first destination for an anniversary or swank night out.000). normally VND160. it delivers value for money in a calm. though they offer fewer cocktails than one might expect. They cook with low amounts of salt and sugar. the lounge with its sofas. or for a lunch with business colleagues and friends. CRHCMC sources many products locally. bottled Belgian ales. Dutch for Feng Shui Set in a large open space reminiscent of a converted 19th-century factory.000). My date pounced on the lamb chops (VND420. visit them at crhcmc. delicious fat. I barely noticed the sausage and ham. Squeezing up the staircase. warmly lit. the long bar. So what does our Mystery Diner say? Photos by Francis Xavier “I s that it?” My date points at the discreet little entryway. The balsamic reduction was tart. friendly ambience right by Ben Thanh Market. a wealth of chocolate mousse topped with a swirl of cream. but has already featured in a steady stream of positive reviews. The high ceilings and lack of screens or interior walls reduce the intimacy.000). Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City is located on the first floor at 171 Calmette. I went with the 250-gram classic steak (VND390. Local craft beer.000) added a balancing tartness. Above it stretches the sign: Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City. The meat and cheese board (VND200. For my entrée. each area showing a distinct character — the open kitchen where the chefs toil. Serving from breakfast to fashionably late dinners. the tall windows provide an interesting view over the Ben Thanh Market area.Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER HCMC Café-Restaurant Located close to Ben Thanh Market. The fries were crisp and not too oily. this recently opened bistro and café is getting some plaudits. and I ordered a 750ml bottle of San Pellegrino ( . a medium-rare striploin with a healthy-sized rind of soft. juicy lamb — and especially with the roasted Hasselback carrot glittering with crystals of chunks of Gouda and bleu cheese. The smiling waiter dropped off soft. settling into our familiar debate about what to order. We tucked into the warm bread rolls slathered with herbed butter.

5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals .THE VERDICT 13 FOOD 13 SERVICE 13 DÉCOR Food. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 fair to good 0 — 4. Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.

com .Food and Drink STREET SNACKER HCMC The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon The king of snacks. But which joint makes the best? Natalia Martínez went on little tour in search of the winner. Photos by Francis Xavier 102 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. banh xeo is everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City.

been selling these crepes for almost 90 years. According to Cameron Stauch — a chef and writer who lives and works in Hanoi — and some other researchers. unlike most of the other eateries. nowadays one thing is sure. as well as some turmeric to provide it with a yellow colour. . eggs and scallions — varies depending on its origin. Perhaps this is the reason they remove the head of the prawns. which disproves the hypothesis that this crepe is a gift from the French cuisine of the late 19th century. Add some extra chilli to make the most of the bite. pork belly. This snack actually holds a fascinating and surprising story. this corner remains as a veteran in the business. banh xeo is in fact a relative of the savoury Indian dosa and a result of the Hindu-influenced kingdom of Champa which occupied the south-central coast of Vietnam until the 19th century. The Art of Eating Banh Xeo Banh xeo’s name comes from the intense sizzling sound the batter produces when it’s poured into the frying pan. we visited the following places. The further south you go. there was no disappointment. Groups of tourists come here to experience one of the top dishes you can find on Vietnamese menus. Across the street after entering the alley. The mixture of this savoury pancake — usually made of rice flour. accompanied with a bunch of assorted fresh herbs and vegetables such as lettuce. it had a good amount of fillings with a balanced crispiness. Whole prawns. bean sprouts and mung beans are sprinkled on the batter. it has different adaptations. The central regions are home to a thicker and smaller pan-fried version. something that picky customers might be thankful for. To find this banh xeo. the larger the banh xeo gets — this formula uses coconut milk to get a thinner and crispier texture. the version sold from the early 20th century never fails.The Vietnamese Dosa Anchored in Vietnamese food history. all brought together with great service. after my experience. look for the pink church in Tan Dinh. banh xeo is one the most iconic dishes served at this country’s tables. Q1 Price: VND75.000 per portion Open hours: 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 9pm Score: 8/10 The search started in the spot that is meant to be the best in town. Once it is cooked. which rests on the hot-fired skillet. Some say it is overpriced and misses the essence of what it used to be but honestly. In order to locate the best banh xeo in Ho Chi Minh City. mustard leaves. Here is our verdict. Banh Xeo 46A has been recommended in guides and featured in numerous travel shows including Anthony Bourdain’s. Even though the recipe might have evolved from its original form resulting in Banh Xeo 46A 46 Dinh Cong Trang. Grab a chunk of the crepe and use the greens as a wrap for the banh xeo — rice paper or banh trang are sometimes used to get the perfect experience — ready to be dipped in some nuoc mam. this golden crepe is folded and served on a tray at the table. water. The size of the crepe was challenging to finish. mint or Vietnamese basil.

who joined me to sample its speciality and shared some secrets about their restaurant. PHOTOS BY NATALIA MARTINEZ Banh Xeo Ngoc Son 103 Ngo Quyen. This. . you can find this popular banh xeo place. and the crowds that flock there are living proof of its appeal. The prawns inside had been cooked previously.30pm to 10pm Score: 7/10 In an alley just off bustling Dien Bien Phu.000 per portion Open hours: 9am to 9pm Score: 6. Ngoc Son should be your place to go. Famous for being crispy and with nice lacy edges. This spot also remains on my list of favourites and starts serving early dinners as soon as rush hour begins.5/10 If you happen to be in Cho Lon. Many drivers don’t even park their bikes since they can just take their crepe on the go as the kitchen overlooks the street. Families sit around the tables waiting for a colossal banh xeo that dwarfs the plate. combined with a fresh homemade chilli sauce. but it was substantial enough. Q5 Price: VND50. like in most of these eateries. which gave a more intense flavour to the crepe. The owner is a known crepe master. as well as the mother of one of my students. However. this pancake comes with a good amount of fillings in which the prawns are particularly big.000 per portion Open hours: 2.Banh Xeo Mien Tay Dien Bien Phu 335 335 Dien Bien Phu. Q3 Price: VND35. This threestorey establishment has been serving crepes for more than 20 years with great success. The crunchy pancake that arrived at the table was slightly smaller compared to other versions. right before Banana Garden Market (Cho Vuon Chuoi). definitely made it an extraordinary dish. probably diluted by the watery consistency of the bean sprouts. I found that the dough was lacking a bit of taste.

bo ba lot — beef wrapped in betel leaf — and much more.Banh Xeo Muoi Xiem 190 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. ********** Even though these banh xeo palaces have an indisputable star in their menus. but it is perhaps something which is difficult to avoid since they are deep fried. together with poor service.000 per portion Open hours: 10am to 10pm Score: 5/10 Muoi Xiem is the name of a chain that has a few restaurants around the city. Unfortunately the pancake was too greasy and to our surprise too empty. Q3 Price: VND85. However. So. So overall.30pm to 10pm Score: 7/10 This is a tiny spot that sits on a corner of one of the busiest streets in Ho Chi Minh City and serves the difficult-to-find central region version of banh xeo. gather some friends and get your hands dirty devouring this delicious crepe that is so integral to Vietnamese cuisine. With a wide menu full of southern delicacies we decided to try something new since they offer a few different versions of banh xeo with different fillings. so go early to grab a stool and indulge in these cute tiny crepes that can be easily devoured in two bites. wordvietnam. Banh Xeo CMTT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam. they also offer a wide selection of other Vietnamese dishes such as fresh and fried spring rolls. This place. it was a bit of a disappointing experience considering the price of the pancake. These were the first banh xeo I tasted when I moved to Vietnam so my judgement towards them is mostly favourable. they do feel a bit greasy. Q3 Price: VND8. The chosen variety was made with seafood. there was hardly any seafood and the ingredients were all lumped together in the middle. Inside you will find yourself in what looks like a bamboo hut with pictures on the walls of Vietnamese women cooking. if you haven’t tried it yet. This can be solved by adding more herbs to the wrap.000 per portion Opening hours: | April 2016 Word | 105 . This meal was an interesting local experience that included stares from Vietnamese people and the constant hustle of motorbikes going up and down this busy road. serves traditional food typical of the region. It certainly gets quite full at night. inspired by the Mekong Delta countryside. shreds of coconut and extra coconut milk added to the batter.

com .Travel TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL Bangkok in Squares Thailand’s biggest city through a lens 106 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. | April 2016 Word | 107 .

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Unless you’ve been there. No zoom meant having to move with the camera to get the right image. except for the ultra-touristy palace or floating market — two sites that make all the brochures. Why? For effect. In the tropical heat of an urban Asian city. you are playing games with the standard rules of composition. visually the Thai capital has much to commend it. nine or 12 squares a page. Bangkok is surprisingly photogenic. Yet rarely do you see professional photos of the place. it can get sweaty.4. Four or six | April 2016 Word | 109 .F or all its ugliness. 1. a fixed 24mm. The other was that each image would be cropped into a square. you won’t have any idea about the look and feel of this city. I imposed two restrictions. So over a recent weekend in Bangkok I decided to use this Asian metropolis as my subject matter. which also meant being mobile. wordvietnam. grime and exhaust fumes. First the lens. It means you can create a collage. beyond the dirt. Each page focusing on a different overriding theme. But it also means you are restricting how much subject matter you can get in one photo.

food. the sophisticated Thai and the city’s canals. amazing high-rises. it still gives a good impression of what the city is like. in particular the taxi drivers. As for Bangkok. and at other times drives me crazy. it’s a city that at times grows on me. restaurants. . five-star hotels.Don’t Take the Taxis Looking through these photos I am struck as much by what is included as by what is missing. The solution? Start learning Thai — Nick Ross 110 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Yet considering this essay was shot in less than 48 hours. If I catch a taxi and reach a location without being driven to the middle of nowhere — once I almost ended up at Don Muang Airport at 1am — I’m pretty happy. | April 2016 Word | 111 .

Starters to salads. but reflect my biases and experiences. Winning Dinners The Tiger’s Eye The brainchild of South African Chef Timothy Bruyns. I’ve yet to have a single bite that was less than breakfast. The Tiger’s Eye is reasonably priced. as everything tastes simply incredible.000). with entrees as low as US$9 (VND203. treat yourself to the US$55 (VND1. The Tiger’s Eye is the second iteration of The Common Tiger. With nearly 1. this city is in a world of its own T he restaurant scene in Phnom Penh is exploding. A whirlwind of dazzling.24 million) tasting menu and prepare to experience foodvana. It’s easily one of my favourite dining experiences of all time. The Tiger’s Eye is beginning to gain the respect it deserves. These categories are not hard and fast. but it’s oh-so-easy to spend more. cocktails to coffee. Phnom Penh. The Tiger’s Eye is located at 49 Samdech Sothearos.000 restaurants listed on TripAdvisor — up from half that only a couple years ago — you can find almost any type of food imaginable at low to reasonable prices. Though still based on what’s fresh in the market that day. dynamic food. Chef Tim spent years cooking in France. If you truly love food. Some of it is world-class. the Cambodian capital remains a mystery. and yet for many people living in Vietnam. Recently opened for 112 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. just south of the Independence Monument . the menu also includes a stable roster of favourites as well as constantly evolving specials. Personal favourites include brined pork chops with marinated soy beans and smoked tuna. I have come up with list of what I think are the best restaurants in Phnom Penh. at jet-set resorts and on private islands in the Seychelles before opening The Common Tiger — his first restaurant — at the tender age of 31. Owen Salisbury goes on a foodie tour of Phnom Penh and discovers that when it comes to dining. Over the course of approximately 10 trips in the last five years. the restaurant’s re-creation also saw changes to its menu. entrees to desserts.Travel TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh It’s just over the border. Overall.

the newly reopened Chinese House is pretty far off from downtown. in a protected building constructed in 1905 Kaviar Any list of winners will still have a loser. not including wine. I recommend the duck — one of the juiciest duck breasts I’ve ever eaten. but drink and nibble at small plates downstairs or sit down to full dinners in the vault-ceilinged upper floor. Asian Contemporary? Pan Pacific? Labels simply cannot do it justice. the place is still changing its menu and style. subtly spiced. banh xeo and bun cha next to carpaccio and cheese plates. Run by a South African couple. Expect a multi-course dinner to run US$50 (VND1. nor for them to be so ill-served by the choice of bread. it looks like an opium den converted to a lowkey discotheque. The dessert soufflé earned them back some respect. Kaviar — set in a historic building and decorated with a Persian-inflected sumptuousness. the ambience or the price. manager Taki and chef Amy — winner of Iron Chef Thailand — blast Asian fusion cuisine into a parallel universe. The beef was overcooked and dry. Personally. While not exactly bad. the food simply didn’t live up to the reputation. Phnom Penh. No other restaurant has the brass to offer samosas. Sorry.The Chinese House The only restaurant to give The Tiger’s Eye a run for its money. one does not expect bog-standard La Ortega-brand tortillas o be served with a trio of fragrant yogurt dips. a fluffy treat that dissolved perfectly into the Freixenet Cava Nevada I ordered. The Chinese House is located at 45 Sisowath Quay. dusted with char and as juicy as a Georgia peach. Phnom Penh. Kaviar is located at the corner of Street 55 and Street 242. Less than a year old. Located in a historic building. and the salad came with a ketchupand-mayo dressing. The chicken was the | April 2016 Word | 113 .13 million) and up per person. in the historic Residence of King Norodom Suramarit wordvietnam.

or potentially much more. classic French cuisine done right. but everything I’ve tried — from duck breast to roast beef — was excellent.Weekday Lunches Topaz The grand old man of French restaurants in Phnom Penh. Topaz kills it with the Western crowd. Choices vary. With little touches like warm bread and butter in chilled stone boxes and wildly creative amuse-bouches I’ve yet to see repeated. particularly the well-heeled and well-connected. 114 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Topaz also boasts a superior wine selection and spirits to match.13 million) per person. the best way to dine there without torturing your wallet is their US$20+ set lunch (VND450. Topaz is located at 162 Preah Norodom. given their caviar-and-lobster style. Service is quick and unobtrusive. Topaz opened in 1997. Dinner goes for more like US$50 (VND1. The once-tiny family restaurant moved in December to a space that looks more like an art museum than an eatery. Phnom . Priced accordingly.000).

you can afford to indulge yourself a little with a glass of cab sauv or an après-lunch glass of calvados. Not included in the set lunch. The cuisine is more southwest France than classical Parisian. but the service is great and the food a positive steal. one could come here for a truly swank dinner. the chefs turn a suave hand to 21st-century French cuisine. definitely try the pea soup with cappuccino cream. right next to the Royal Palace La Residence Connected in some way to the Royal palace — no one I asked ever told the same story — La Rez is a | April 2016 Word | 115 . even with lunch. their foie gras selections are their crowning glory. Phnom Penh. perfect for long. Choose either the regular three-course menu for US$17 (VND378. but has plenty of favourites and a weekly specials menu. It also features private dining rooms and a Salon de Thé wordvietnam. chic respite from the heat and hustle of the capital’s streets. but with a price that low. or the three-course gourmet for US$32 (VND712. The chef reputedly returned from a six-month refresher course. Be sure to check out the carefully selected objets d’art scattered throughout the space.000). you’re not here to pinch pennies. and follow up with the chicken roulade. Clearly. it’s die-happy level indulgence.000) set lunch doesn’t include booze. For a starter.Open Wine Topaz may be the leader. Prices for anything outside the menu are high — like US$5 (VND111. lazy lunches with a paperback. Their three-course US$12 (VND270. The décor isn’t anything special. Also popular with the diplomatic crowd. cooking in some of the finer kitchens in France. Either way. But hey. Try the carpaccio and the pork filet with mustard sauce and potato croquettes. One of the most beautiful restaurants on the list.000). so take some time to look at the sculpted gardens outside or sit under the waterfall as you dine. but La Rez’s set lunches define the higher end of that market. but Open Wine is the popular favourite and offers the best value for money. La Residence is located at No. Open Wine is located at 219 Street 19. Phnom Penh.000) for water — so be watchful. 22-24 Samdach Pan Avenue (Street 214). Open Wine is considerably lower-key than Topaz.

Portions are large and prices reasonable. but the café itself is tiny. ask to sit in the garden and enjoy the splashing fountains. The pizzas are thin-crust perfection. pools and smiling statue of the Buddha. as is the marvellous selection of imported cheese and meat crammed therein. make reservations especially on weekends . For the best experience. Whatever they don’t import. and they are happy to help you navigate the intricacies of Khmer cuisine. with a hint of char on the bottom. desserts and digestifs. a high-end imagining of Khmer food that is eminently reasonable in price and exquisitely beautiful in location. but I’m happy to see Malis take in the customers. it’ll still be there next time I want to go. Luigi’s serves authentic Italian food with a kind of manic insistence on quality over everything else. Luigi’s Bassac Lane is home to half a dozen upand-coming restaurants. Be sure to try their signature dessert. Another place that serves an excellent duck breast. but one stands out. Phnom Penh. pastas. Service is efficient and friendly. Looking as though a teleporter accident fused a sleepy Napolitano pizzeria with a Cambodian café. Luigi’s features a standard array of pizzas.Good for Anything Malis No list of the best of Phnom Penh would be complete without Malis. near Bassac Lane 116 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. so it’s easy for supper to end with your elbow in your neighbour’s tiramisu. Luigi’s is located at M36 Street 308. The deli counter crammed between counter and door is special. sweetly acidic tomato sauce and bubbling-hot mozzarella. If you want to eat dinner at a normal time. Malis is located at 136 Preah Norodom (Street 41). Phnom Penh. a mousse with jasmine flowers and honey over fruit. they make in-house to amazing effect. Malis also has some interesting cocktails featuring local It would be more peaceful if it was less crowded.

His cooking style is so eclectic and improvisational. After cheffing in the UK. Odd-jobbing in restaurants led to cooking. tattooed and handsome. and they have a small but respectable stock of Italian wines to match. that it’s almost a love-it-or-hate-it affair. a Michelin 3-star since 1968 and one of the more influential restaurants of the last century. Before long. wordvietnam. Limoncello is here because the food is consistently terrific. Tim worked at the Singita Hotel. one of whose chefs apprenticed at Troisgros. his wandering feet and obvious culinary talents led him to grander jobs in more refined kitchens. full stop. there’s no telling what he’ll achieve. as is the pizza carbonara. their pasta is amazingly authentic. Phnom Penh. Timothy Bruyns. France and Tanzania. They also have the best homemade limoncello this side of Campania. Chef Tim’s not there yet. around the corner from the Giant Ibis Bus Terminal in case you have a few hours to kill Charismatic. but with time. including Robert de Niro. and working long hours for poor wages in his native South Africa. I make a point to go back most visits. Limoncello isn’t just a pizzeria. He also possesses one trait often overlooked by even serious gourmets. of course. which goes brilliantly with their panna cotta and a dash of espresso. More than once have I bought two to go just before hopping on the bus. The pizza diavola is terrific. the 34-year-old South African chef and owner of The Tiger’s Eye. and one for the road. The first restaurant I ate at in Phnom Penh and until recently my favourite authentic Italian place in Southeast | April 2016 Word | 117 . Tim worked at a private island in the Seychelles where he cooked for celebrities from around the world. with his creativity and passion. Tim dropped out of university and abandoned a smooth path to the corporate world because he couldn’t muster any passion for it. Almost like some kind of TV Shaolin monk. Limoncello is located at 81 Sisowath Quay. doesn’t look like your average chef and restaurateur.Staring Into The Tiger’s Eye Limoncello You know a restaurant is good when the only thing your girlfriend wants from Phnom Penh is one of their pizzas. pedigree. Not the most elegant or fashionable place to dine. His first version of The Tiger’s Eye — The Common Tiger — gained a nearly cult-like following but also some surprisingly vitriolic reviews. one for her. Chef Tim spent a decade wandering the earth and learning to cook.

com throwaway words — it’s breathtaking. When it comes to tourist-friendly delights. and mountains towering above. here are 10 places we say you absolutely must visit in 2016. Dong Van. Just don’t expect creature comforts. If they say seeing is believing. most of whom still live in the mountains and wear traditional dress. Getting There-o-meter: Hard. Think overnight sleeper bus. Words by Nick Ross F or a publication that celebrates the diversity of Vietnam. It’s also the most northerly. it has always been a frustration that people constantly visit the same places. Just don’t always expect it to be easy. But there is far more to travelling through this country than hitting Hanoi. .. Every valley you pass through is different. in the case of Ha Giang. Yes. the jewel in a very large crown is the pass just outside of the former French hill station. Accommodation Watch: Erm... Well. They’ve got guesthouses in the towns. in the main they do a great job. Why? The scenery. Five star hotels? In some places. seeing is also about holding your breath. With a 1km drop to the river below. PHOTO BY NICK ROSS Ha Giang Ha Giang is categorically the most beautiful province in Vietnam. We were mesmerised both times. Home to about six or seven ethnic minorities. If you want to feel like you’ve ‘done’ Vietnam. pinch yourself and you might think you’re in the Andes. Yes. Ho Chi Minh City and the country’s tour group hotspots.Travel TRAVEL NATIONAL 10 Destinations in Vietnam to Visit in 2016 Or. Word has been there twice to take photos and write articles. Phu Quoc.. unless you don’t mind hiring a motorcycle or a four-wheel-drive jeep. not a bloomin’ chance. Halong Bay and Sapa. we genuinely love destinations such as Hoi An. the next more exhilarating than the last. the alternative guide to travelling in Vietnam. Getting around? Even harder. we’ll use the 118 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. too.

too. too. culture. ‘cos Hue is good at that. Hue’s got an airport. and travel inland and the jungle-clad mountains are the stuff of war movies. Now we at Word love Hue. Getting There-o-meter: Yes.PHOTOS BY WORD VIETNAM / AARON JOEL SANTOS Hue The former Imperial capital of Vietnam should be on every Ron. Let’s jump for joy. a new airport even. especially close to the Pham Ngu Lao area. Mick and Mary’s bucket list. There’s a lot of budget around. with great scenery thrown in. It’s a city of artisans and culture. It’s also on the Open Tour bus route and the north-south train | April 2016 Word | 119 . then La Residence is oh-so oohla-la. but it’s just not by the sea. this tranquil yet endearing city is often overlooked. The problem? Yes. yes! This is culture. wordvietnam. but thanks to the nearby charms and more tourist-friendly meccas of Hoi An and Danang. baby. So should you go there? Hell. Woohoo! Accommodation Watch: If you like 1920s elegance. there are no tailors and there’s nothing to buy — unless you like food. it’s got a citadel and tombs and museums and beautiful countryside and bridges and boat cruises.

Phong Nha Farmstay is a keeper. make sure you know your taxi fare first. and with a town developing faster than the speed of a construction truck flying down Highway 1. home to 100. Take the water caves of Tu Lan. the limestone karsts and jungle give Phong Nha an extra aura. Just. this is becoming a place to chill out as well. VND500. as is the dorm accommodation at Easy Tiger. Getting There-o-meter: Flights from Hanoi go to Dong Hoi. And then there’s Hang En. Want to stay at the home of Ho Khanh.000 from the airport to Phong Nha can be hard to swallow. Ever wanted to cycle down back roads through the rolling countryside? Go to Phong Nha and it’s at your fingertips. but a lot of excellent homestaystyle options with idyllic scenery. if you fly. 120 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the person who discovered the world’s largest cave? Well even he’s got a riverside homestay these . There’s something Harrison Ford about this place as you swim through the grottos in the pitch black and end up in a hidden outdoor lake. Part of a national park. Ever heard of the Pub With Cold Beer? Go to Phong Nha and you might just. But the other caves are well worth the journey. Accommodation Watch: No five-stars here yet. the area’s only city.PHOTO BY WORD VIETNAM / FRANCIS ROUX Phong Nha You may not be able to visit the largest cave in the world — for preservation and safety purposes.000 swallows with its indoor beach and subterranean mystique. This one’s easy. You can also hit the train or even take a bus from Hue. entrance is both restricted and expensive.

But the homestays near the park HQ are also worth checking out. However. especially when you compare what’s on offer elsewhere in Southeast Asia. Accommodation Watch: Did we say something about stilt houses? Nam Cat Tien PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS When it comes to jungle. it’s a welcome break from the big city. peacocks. an NGO-sponsored conservation project that saves primates and other mammals. which meant staying vigilant. wordvietnam. The key? This is backwater ethnic minority idyll. With a main base around the park HQ — a number of chilled homestays have sprung up next to the river in the last couple of years — this is a place where you can trek and genuinely see animals in the wild. These roads are dangerous. On our last trip we spotted douc langurs. over the past decade this destination four hours from Hanoi has become commercialised. Buses also do the trip from Hanoi. communal eating. lizards. Oh. noble | April 2016 Word | 121 . the isolated valley location. the countryside walks and the time-hasforgotten villages. Perfect for those who still glorify the. It’s also a good place to go cycling — Ta Lai Longhouse has bikes for rent for the 12km track to the main park area. with guests sleeping in longhouses attached to people’s homes. Yet fortunately it still boasts the charm of the past that makes it a destination of choice. The dedication of the staff here is remarkable.Mai Chau Set in a valley surrounded by mountains. wherever possible releasing them back into the wild. Getting There-o-meter: You’re gonna need a bus for this one. you get why people like to come here. Mai Chau is not only a place you have to visit. gaurs and deer. Getting There-o-meter: This is one you can drive. ummm. Add to this the paddy fields. the majority of the accommodation is shared. a great lake for swimming and kayaking. had to get a bit of Rousseau into this one. Motorbike — we would recommend against it. you might even spot some elephant dung. Nam Cat Tien remains the one stand-out. It’s a three-hour ride. And just four hours from Hanoi. Vietnam really doesn’t quite get it right. Accommodation Watch: We love Ta Lai Longhouse. And if you’re lucky. and don’t forget gibbon island. Inhabited by the stilt-house living Black Thai. We did. The road to Hoa Binh is one of the safer highways out there. Communal sleeping accommodation. from Mien Dong Bus Station in Saigon. but it’s also a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to head to the wild northwest. Yes.

serves flights from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Often passed over for Danang to the north and Nha Trang to the south. we had one of those unforgettable experiences — this is a side to Vietnam you will rarely see. Getting There-o-meter: The local airport. 122 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the karaoke we sang. rooftop bars and bling. Now. head to Bai Xep — you won’t regret it. the wedding we ended up at. a travellers’ haven that no-one knows about. Getting There-o-meter: Did anyone say overnight bus? Accommodation Watch: Er. Yes. Didn’t stay there. although don’t expect Hyatt and InterCon-style five-stars. It’s also the only city in the Central Highlands — including Buon Me Thuot. built entirely of wood and . without the razzmatazz. We spent one day there and had a blast. not a clue. Not a chance. We’ve done it twice and we’re still in love. Just 130km from Attapeu. Accommodation Watch: Here there’s the full gamut. Quy Nhon is Vietnam as it once was. This is Quy Nhon. But apparently you can hitch up with the ethnic Bahnar. Gia Lai and Pleiku — that has any cultural colour. Combine it with a city like Ho Chi Minh City. but much smaller. this is deckchairs on the promenade by the beach. The quite phenomenal Tan Huong church. The only problem? Many of the Open-Tour buses stop here in the middle of the night.PHOTO BY NICK ROSS Quy Nhon Imagine a coastal city like Danang. but with the atmosphere of the early 2000s. But for dormitory accommodation and beachstyle four-star resorts. and then add in probably the best beaches in Vietnam and almost definitely the finest seafood (sorry Phu Quoc). the drunken overnight journey back to Saigon and all that rice wine drunk out of a shared barrel with straws. it’s also the gateway to the rest of Southeast Asia. Add in the Cham temples — they litter the area surrounding Quy Nhon — deserted beaches and Bai Xep to the south. and this is an area definitely worth exploring. Then there’s the northsouth train. with the occasional five-star or fourstar hotel thrown in for good measure. Kontum Word has been to Kontum once. the closest town in Laos. late-night outdoor drinking on plastic stools. Instead. Phu Cat. the ethnic minority Bahnar who live bang in the middle of town. the dragon houses. that would be interesting.

great diving. it means the islands are protected. not man. Formerly called Poulo Condore when it was used by the French as the Indochinese version of Devil’s Island — yes the old prisons are all still here — these days it’s the Vietnamese army presence that is noticeable. wild! That is the best way to describe this archipelago to the southeast of mainland Vietnam. protected from the encroachment of man. Six Senses Con Dao. wordvietnam. and of course one of the best fivestars in Vietnam. good seafood. Worth every dong of the ride. Word has been here twice and we love the scenery — so much of it is untouched. night-time turtle hatching on Bay Canh. but you’d be mad to go that way as there are now around six daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City. stunning beaches. make sure you hire a motorbike. Six Senses Con | April 2016 Word | 123 . With the army and navy controlling huge swathes of the land. and protected from over-development.PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS Con Dao Wild. Need we say more? Getting There-o-meter: A ferry goes from Vung Tau to Con Dao. the weather — here you can get four seasons within a day — and the sense that this is a place where nature rules. Not that this is a bad thing. Six Senses Con Dao. wild. The National Park. Con Son). (there are also some well-appointed guesthouses in the main town. We also love the fishing ports. But to get around. Accommodation Watch: Six Senses Con Dao.

Surrounding you are vines. on one side you have the mosques and kampong-style villages of the Muslim Cham. Ben Tre. the border town of Chau Doc has to be the most interesting. Ha Tien. and another on Sam Mountain. Overlooking it all is Sam Mountain. Chau Doc is also the gateway to Cambodia. Head south and you pass through Khmer villages with their Theravada pagodas and sugar palms. mangrove trees with gnarled roots. but it’s worth every penny as you get to see the Mekong. That’s Tra Su. Tra Vinh. And a few kilometres further on you come to Tra Su bird sanctuary. and odd flowers peaking out of the gloom. On the other is the main . canals. My Tho — but for cultural and geographic contrasts. Getting There-o-meter: A five-hour bus ride from Saigon. small lanes and rickety bridges. strange mosses. 124 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. especially when the water is high. And surrounding the city are paddy fields. home to one of the great religious pilgrimages of Vietnam. You may have to take the Victoria Hotels boat service. while all about you birds flap and search for food. Sat at the confluence of three rivers.PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS Chau Doc The Mekong Delta has many destinations worth checking out — Sa Dec. markets and obsession with fish (the canh chua ca or sweet and sour broth with fish is exceptional). Imagine taking a canoe. in Apocalypse Now-style silence through the swamps. There are also a number of guesthouses right in town. perfect for a bit of cycling. with its pagodas. Accommodation Watch: Victoria Hotels has two properties here. a twitcher’s paradise. One in town on the river. the other more comfortable option is by boat from My Tho.

PHOTOS BY QUANG NONG / WORD VIETNAM Lang Son Often described as the gateway to China. as is heading to the night market and trying the roasted pork and the pho chua (sweet and sour noodles). it’s perfect for a weekend break. 16th-century citadel. this is a place that mixes Chinese culture with Vietnamese. this is a wonderful place to visit for a couple of days. this northwesterly city just four hours from Hanoi has a long. wordvietnam. beyond that you’re looking at small guesthouses. To get around. battle-ridden history. the Vietnam of today with that of the | April 2016 Word | 125 . Today its glorious past is crowned by its ancient. Two caves — Tam Thanh and Nhi Thanh — are part of the checking-it-out experience. Built during the Mac Dynasty. Accommodation Watch: There’s a Muong Thanh hotel in town if you’re after a Vietnamese four-star. only two walls remain and while the North Gate was renovated in 2010. there’s much to commend Lang Son. and only four hours from Hanoi. the South Gate has been reclaimed by nature. Despite being a border town. past with present. You’ll need it. for pure beauty and an aura of ‘what once was’. Surrounded by limestone karsts. try getting hold of a motorbike. But more importantly. and sat next to Phai Loan Lake. Getting There-o-meter: The bus takes four to five hours and there’s also a train route — taking the train is part of the Lang Son experience.

Dalat.hilton. comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Located in the centre of the Old Quarter. Q5. Tel: (04) 3822 2800 Located in central Dalat. Set to the west of town. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi. Tel: (04) 6270 8888 hanoi. Hoan Kiem. a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. Tel: (04) 3828 5372 hanoibackpackershostel. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. plus a couple of double suites from VND250. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square. this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. Beautiful views. Dalat. Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial. Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House. 110 rooms. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh. airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet. 11 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter. Me Tri. Hoan Kiem sixonsixteen. uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants. and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. 1 Quang Trung. Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu. Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings. Tu Liem. features free Probably the cheapest. the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar. serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Hoan Kiem. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha. Breakfast is included and in the long. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 sofitel. M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh. the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong. Ba Dinh. an excellent Surrounded by lush gardens. along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the With its distinctive French architecture and top end service. In addition to the luxurious rooms. Hoan Kiem. Do Duc Duc. Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi. fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. Hoan From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside. the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a Located near the Dalat Train Station. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm. Hanoi. and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. Tel: (04) 3831 5555 hanoi-daewoohotel. great balcony areas. this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four 126 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. this popular wellappointed. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen. Hanoi. Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. All the modern amenities at reasonable A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter. Hoan Kiem. and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera. This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer. Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong. Dalat. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai. Tel: (04) 3938 1048 josephshotel. this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. And like you’d expect. Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace. sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards. M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen. comfortable.intercontinental. INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam. European-style hostel in town. Quiet. Great gym and health club. night club and swimming pool. Tel: (04) 3934 3343 meliahanoi. .com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake. Q1. two-storey villa. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh. a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. and a la carte restaurant. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi. Truc Bach Lake and the Red River. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam. Hanoi. home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. Hanoi. Ba Dinh. Tu Liem. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong.hgi. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. Shortly to become a Marriot property. Hoan The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Ba Dinh. 93 are non-smoking. JW MARRIOTT HANOI Located next to the cathedral. lounge restaurant on the second floor. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious. a contemporary lobby. where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel. TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan. and with four restaurants and two bars. too. with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150. Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla. Hai Ba Trung. this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. stylish bars. Chinese and international cuisine. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. the events staff is well equipped to handle any Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter. colonial era. Hoan Kiem. a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. The Orient DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3. a spa. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3733 0688 pullman-hanoi. including a tennis court and spa. Tel: (063) 382 2663 M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites. Hanoi. the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities. Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel. the hotel offers a full service restaurant. Hanoi. State-of-the-art rooms. the lavish. My Dinh Commune. Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Tay Ho. May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.000. Hoan Kiem.000. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma.Travel DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai. there’s a fitness DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung. Tel: (04) 3928 6969 With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites. a swimming With deluxe rooms and suites. elegant restaurants. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. Close to the National Convention Center. and a favourite of the business traveller. a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese. Boasts two swimming pools. the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort. This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Dalat. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau. topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar. this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien. presentations and celebrations. Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville. there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose Resting just a step away from the Opera House. a stylish bar. Ba Excellently located in central Hanoi.

together with luxury boutique arcade. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel. and a wellness centre including a swimming pool. Corso. as has the landscaped pool. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel. this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square. Q1.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. Q1. Au Trieu. Q1. Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas. with first–class facilities. Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao. Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong. Da Nang. clean rooms. Hoi An anbangbeachretreat. Cua This 20–story building in downtown Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon. contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1. and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1. each with a private pool. a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. fine dining. Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon. a business centre. 24-hours room service. Q3. friendly service www. friendly In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. presidents — two Bushes. Tel: (08) 3827 4648 M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien. Ngu Hanh Fabulous in style. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town. Ngu Hanh Son. a gym. Q1. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments. Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank).hyatt. In the heart of Saigon. Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3925 7777 Set on the Han River. Hai Chau. comfort and connectivity. prime in location. Hoa Hai. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu. health club. Tel: (08) 3744 6090 Immaculate architecture. non-city centre choice. lift. spa. Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai. With an idyllic setting. Hoi CUA DAI $ 544. Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole.josephshotel. designer shops. a sauna. resides the Asiana with signature dining HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh. Phu Nhuan. Tel: (08) 3822 5914 Free Former guests include U. Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon. seven meeting rooms. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan. Low The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688 lemeridien. Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel. spacious and airy. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang. a first-floor ballroom. the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas. Khue Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam. Ngu Hanh Son. sauna and spa. everything one would expect from the | April 2016 Word | 127 . this well-appointed.MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. M M M HCMC .vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang. 24-hour fine dining. Intimate atmosphere and excellent service. Q1. a 600-capacity ballroom. this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. And with extensive function facilities. spacious rooms. this upscale. Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort. this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung. LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan. and a fine selection of fine dining. Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event. M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi. airport pickup or drop off. Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang. caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan. PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. Q5. making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre. Q2. meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam. Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang. an innovative cocktail wordvietnam. Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446 kimdohotel. Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel. Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon. Beautiful. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang. Q1. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings. Khue My. the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.newworldhotels. multi-shower. Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. and limousine services. Q1. Q1. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels. Ngu Hanh Son. there is little reason not to choose this shining star. Hoa Cuong Bac. Danang. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach. Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run. Danang. New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. Indochine-influenced design. Tel: (08) 3823 1117 renaissance-saigon. Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3829 9201 M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach. plasma hotel Next to the cathedral STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi. and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi. Innovative cuisine. and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great. exclusive spa and health club. gym. Situated on the banks of the Saigon River. an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. outdoor swimming pool. FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap.This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets. Q1. An ongoing event as well as a hotel. a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town.regency. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island. international With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien. Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang. Phu Nhuan. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan.

it's one of the most fascinating museums in the whole of Vietnam M y boss and I were discussing the upcoming holiday. and nowhere do they change so fast as in Vietnam. But. The soldiers nicknamed the beach ‘The five and dime’. The Marble Mountains. of course. The next bus wasn’t for another hour. Most tourists tend to overlook Danang. 10km to the southeast. That was exactly the way I had looked at it before my first visit. 128 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. are a . The ramshackle buildings and plywood bars of China Beach’s war days have now been replaced by swish hotels. and spend the next few days getting to know Danang instead. “Danang? Why on earth would you want to go there?” The boss’s reaction was fairly typical. at night it even breathes fire The Cham Museum in Danang is not just one of the best attractions in the city. and waves big enough to set any surfer’s heart racing. China Beach isn’t the only attraction Danang has up its sleeve. His first stop was China Beach. This drew a legion of ladies of the night to the area. I intended to spend the least possible amount of time in Central Vietnam’s largest city before boarding a bus for nearby Hoi An. It was at this beach where the war-happy air force captain in Apocalypse Now coaxed a couple of his men into going surfing. times change. I’m a sucker for Exciting and Unexciting Danang By Don Wills China Beach is a 30km stretch of spotless white sand. intent on relieving the GIs of as many of their dollars as possible. so to fill in time I got in a taxi and said to the driver “Take me somewhere interesting”. The GIs are long gone. ultra-modern condominiums and trendy restaurants. “I’m thinking of going to Danang for the break. mega malls. China Beach was where US soldiers were sent for their R&R.NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY Dragon Bridge Cham Charm One of Danang's best known attractions. Getting off the northbound Reunification Express there. and it was there and then that I decided to postpone my bus ride to Hoi An. but the pro trade remains to this day. regarding it as a transit point rather than a holiday venue.” I tell him. clear blue water.


Danang, Why?

Son Tra Peninsula
Design-wise, the InterContinental in
Danang is one of the most unusual resorts
in Vietnam

range of five rocky limestone outcrops
jutting out to sea. The mountains are
honeycombed with caves that have housed
Buddhist sanctuaries for hundreds of years
(many now pock-marked by bullet holes).
The most popular cave is Quan Am, with
stalactites and stalagmites that some say
resemble figures of Buddha or mythical
creatures. Another, deservedly less popular
cave is Hell Cave. Entering this is like
entering one of those ghost houses you
get in second-rate fairgrounds back home.
Flickering lights and skeletons with winking
red eyes are intended to scare the pants off
you, but fail miserably.
At the foot of Marble Mountains are
scores of impressive carved marble figures
from Buddhist folklore. There are also
some more modern sculptures, including
garden gnomes, fountains, and one of
Michelangelo’s David. You will of course
have the obligatory photo taken of yourself
standing beside David, and subsequently
tell everyone you show it to “I’m the one

on the right, by the way”. (Ah, the childish
pleasures some people indulge in.)
Some travellers have labelled Marble
Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting
attraction’. You can’t please everybody.
Another of Danang’s attractions is the
military museum, strewn with the detritus
of war. You can join groups of school
children on guided tours and see the
dramatic collection of captured American
tanks, fighter jets and helicopters.
And another item of interest; Dragon
Bridge. Spanning the Han River, the three

giant loops of the dragon’s tail constantly
change colour, from yellow to blue to green
to turquoise. On Saturday and Sunday
nights the dragon’s mouth breathes fire and
water. It’s well worth a visit.
So, the next time the subject of Danang
comes up, don’t dismiss it out of hand as an
also-ran, not worth the time or money. It’s
far more than that.
Born in New Zealand, Don Wills doesn’t live
in Danang, but he does live in Southeast Asia.
He’s been writing his way round the region for

“Some travellers have labelled Marble
Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting
attraction’. You can’t please everybody” | April 2016 Word | 129


Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510)
394 0000


Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.

Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222


2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style
accommodation furnished
in traditional native woods,
this resort offers verandah
dining, a pool bar and the
signature Six Senses Spa.

Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

Located on Vietnam’s South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383


66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382


130 | Word April 2016 |


The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000

Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the
jungle and nature.

Enjoy the private beach with
excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666

54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7322

Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900

This four-star hotel with 154
guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete
with a pool, spa, restaurant,
bar and meeting room that
caters for up to 200 delegates.
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a
swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those
who opened it in 1995.
86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham
Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384

A leafy, seafront bungalow
resort and café with nightly
live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places
you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and
Asian food menu together
with a cheap happy hour
on beer make up the relaxing mix.
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000

Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatched–roof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens with
an infinity swimming pool,
a seafood restaurant, spa,
beauty salon and jacuzzi.

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844


A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds — four
beds to a room — go for US$8
(VND168,000) each a night.
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367


The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,
Tel: (077) 398 0998

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike
rental, boat trips and tours
are easily arranged. Discount
rates during rainy season.
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207

An eco–friendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To
Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien
Tel: (08) 3929 3097
Hotline 0907 99 55 02

Set on the sea and only 4km
away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is
inspired by an interplay of
rustic local heritage with
contemporary design. The

property has 121 rooms and
villas with private balconies,
and provides a luxury experience that embodies the
understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl
of Asia.

Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203

The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.

1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553

Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao,
Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

Tel: (064) 378 1525

This attractive property is the
ideal getaway from Ho Chi
Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a
local experience complete
with an excellent spa and
two swimming pools.
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631

The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and
cycling and motorbike tours.
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135

Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 8888

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is
Vietnam’s first large scale
integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star
hotel, a world-class casino,
restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP
area, as well as a variety of
beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the
Greg Norman-designed golf
course, The Bluffs, one of the
best golf courses in Vietnam.

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam.
BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150

A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure
tours to both popular and
isolated locations in Vietnam,
Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track
sustainable and responsible
tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more
well-worn destinations.
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa — kenya-airways.
com), American Airlines (aa.
com) and Turkish Airlines
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an
international travel company
operating in Vietnam since
1992, offering innovative day
tours, short breaks and small
group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed
departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho
Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong
Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and
beyond to get you up close
to Vietnam’s people, cuisine,
history and culture.
Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3715 3977

A homegrown travel agency providing small group
journeys and tailor-made
holidays to Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia, Myanmar and
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in
Hanoi since 2010.

70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh
City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

This premium travel agency
helps travellers select their
destinations and organise
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7744

Flight travel services, including global travel management,
domestic and international air
booking and travel insurance,
to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.
Tel: 0946 704095

Escape the bustle with

Southeast Asia’s top rated
bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong
Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels.
Also organize longer, two
to 14-day tours throughout
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward
4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08)
3984 4754

If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay — all
while making a difference in
people’s lives — then this
company will suit you well.
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222


Vespa Adventure offers
multi–day tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.

Tel: (08) 6298 5659

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street
food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese

Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection
of best hotels and great
tours. Create your own trip
or we can tailor make your
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City,
Tel: 0713 752436

Want to set up non-standard
tours in the Mekong with
local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This
might be the place to contact. | April 2016 Word | 131

Raja-types lounging behind big. nice house. I’ve covered on average about 350km in a day. But he’s not afraid of thugs. the state capital. DAY 231 Covering the Distance On good roads. DAY 233 Varanasi Benares. Nemo. with a biogas stove. fresh milk from cows outside and they have more servants than I can count. On bad roads.. But I haven’t had many good roads lately.THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 13: BOLLYWOOD. trials. or way less. One old lady’s boob spills out from under her sari. Fat guy in speedos whacking laundry on a rock in filthy water. COLOURS AND CHOCOLATE-COVERED PAAN. By evening. On the back of his bike. And families bathing. Statues of Hanuman. Matt covers wild distances across India DAY 229 West Bengal Staying with a tea estate family. another yells at her to cover up. Cows shitting all around. I’m driving through Bihar. It’s all of India condensed into one riverside. A smell of incense. deeper into the fire. And I’m right in time. murals of Shiva and others. “Inviting” is likely not the word I’d use. it’d be 132 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Mark Twain once .com good if I didn’t get stranded here in the dark. maybe 150km. I did 500km. infamous for most bad things you ever hear of India on the news. everyday business here apparently. paths. a smell of piss. a “friendly” handshake. Why are they all so darn fat? They don’t even eat beef here. Patna. he’s been tipped off that cops are headed to visit him for a little dose of their daily ‘extortion’. swamps and rivers. Today. A fit. young dude pushing a charred human corpse with a stick. cloth umbrellas. enough to lock you into a suspiciously cheap 10-rupee massage. Surprisingly unobtrusive (I don’t hang around long enough to find otherwise) sadhus all around. “Hello. The city feels like a mess.. I’m staying with the only foreign expat in town. Seems like people commonly carry rifles with them here and although it seems peaceful enough. boat sir?” is the ever-present echo. And the ‘massage-guy’ trap. he just installed wooden security braces to bar his doors from intruders. And this city feels so darn old.

” Ah. the Eiffel Tower and so on. a cocky prince who dumps his awesome exgirlfriend for a bimbo princess. Crowds dancing. What a treat! A live-action Indian fantasy happening right in front of me. DAY 239 The Taj I’ve seen the Pyramids.” .said Varanasi was “older than history…” Guess I’m not selling it very well. DAY 242 Zangoora. And at the least I know that I won’t be tempted to sleep in. I hesitate to go again. EtheriumSky. poor girl. lets me in. What if I don’t feel the same this time? Will it dispel the magic? But despite terrible food poisoning. awesome costumes. And naturally. don’t dare to guess what else those red streaks on the walls could be.. I drag myself up by 5am. For more on Matt’s films and travels. video projections all around. Used condoms in the corner and I think they bled out a pig from the window. pay the exorbitant. the Great Wall. I’m drained and one place finally takes pity on me. but none has ever made an impression on me as much as the Taj Mahal. Whatever. this place simply makes me smile. And it’s a dungeon. “cause that was their fate. DAY 235 No-Luck-Now Drove 400km to Lucknow and eight guesthouses in a row give me the same answer: “Full.. to someone who doesn’t already ‘understand’ Vanarasi. First light of morning and I’m gone. but there’s nobody | April 2016 Word | 133 . check out the Etherium Sky production blog at www. It’s a Bollywood Disneyland. I hope I don’t need to use the toilet. come to me. Dark night. I don’t even dare peek inside. wicked witches flying overhead next to princesses in swan boats dropping flower petals into the audience. I feel happy here. Ugh. And eight years since my first visit. And just like the first wordvietnam. I’ll comfort you. racist fee and make my way to the gates. But whatever. in the end everybody and their mothers are all happy and dancing wildly to Jai Ho.

Hanoi Day Tripper: Hanoi / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / The Therapist / Top Eats / Medical Buff Photo by Julie Vola 134 | Word April 2016 | .

but a great information source. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv. InterContinental Hanoi. deep tissue massage. where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE issuu. Hoan Kiem. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi. Call to arrange membership. Clothes fit all sizes. Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE M M M LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS 44 Trang Tien. this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Tay Provides various holistic healing modalities. Hoan Kiem. DVDs and more. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts. Tay Ho. healing stones massage. Designing pieces that are trendy. retail outlet and café. 13 Hang Bac. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. from petite to average to the generous figure. Contraband targets young hip working women. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. Tay Ho. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu. offering a sense of Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing. Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts. Tay THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies. 1 Thanh Nien. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. their shop and arts space focuses on L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien. prenatal massage. Tel: (04) 3824 VIETNAM AIRLINES TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair. 9 Xuan Dieu. Only available online. Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock. 1 Thanh .org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960 JAPAN AIRLINES M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA 23/67 To Ngoc Van. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham. Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes. With over 15. Tay A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair. FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 21 Hai Ba Trung. Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994 KOREAN AIR koreanair. Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen. Puts on monthly networking events. Has a second shop in Tay Ho BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu. leather bags. SKATESHOP THREE TREES 84 Hang Dieu. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 JEWELLERY booskateshop. M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP 44 Chau M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP 5 Nha Tho. Tel: (04) 3715 3711. Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines. Hoan AUSCHAM 4th Floor. Ba Dinh. AIRLINES HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam. 24 Ly Quoc VIETJETAIR JETSTAR PACIFIC CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van. Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007. Tel: (04) 3936 2151 CLUBS & SOCIETIES XUNHASABA AMERICAN CLUB ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE EVENT SPACE 32 Hai Ba Trung. Hoan SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines. new and HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu. Tel: (04) 3934 2790 LAO AIRLINES laoairlines. says it all. Tel: (04) 3928 8725 M M M AIR FRANCE airfrance. Western and yet distinctly The work of Spanish couple Laura and Hanoi Cooking Centre is a ICHAM Sofitel HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945 HANOI OIS THINGS OF SUBSTANCE NETBALL CLUB AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. 6B Lang Ha. gala dinners. fundraising events and much more. Services include craniosacral therapy. with regular events and more. 1/28 Nghi Tam CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu. CONTRABAND GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE AIR ASIA airasia. 100 Lo Duc. Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre. Tel: (04) 3726 4896 22A Hai Ba a-roamingbodyworker. this shop offers a huge range of 15 Nha COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long. Vietnamese prices”. elegant. Tel: (04) 3926 4831. Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace. Ground floor. held in a beautiful setting. Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3825 4068 M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Stocks women’s wear. the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn. CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 23 Nha Chung. but international cuisine. shirts. M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific. BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs. Hoan Kiem. They also offer culinary tours. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard. 1A Nghi Tam. Tay Ho.Hanoi Essentials ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker. Hoan as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. shoes and handicrafts. Ba EUROCHAM G/F. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. No 1 Thanh A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. Workshops are also available. 58 Hang Trong. Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam. Ba Dinh CCIFV Sofitel Plaza. the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Hoan Kiem.

Cau Giay. 27 Xuan Dieu. Hang Bai and Trang Tien. 1 Thanh BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS Founded in 2012. the shop employs women in rural areas. Hanoi trangtienplaza. artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. enabling them to make an income and care for their families. Tel: (04) 3927 5568. The clinic provides the highest quality technology. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma. Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES 34 Nghi Tam. Tel: (04) 3719 7214 TRANG TIEN PLAZA The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl. Ba Dinh. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226. the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss . Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia. Tel: (04) 3928 5190 artvietnamgallery. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh.Germany).com THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu. Ba Dinh. and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss . Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. Tel: 0904 244941 NHA SAN COLLECTIVE RED APRON GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS WINE RETAILER 24 Ly Quoc Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage. Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES. FRUIT & VEG 99 Xuan Dieu. Syrena Center. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 04 3939 3907 GROCERIES / DELI First Floor. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.Hanoi Essentials several locations around the region. com 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Tay DON’S TAY HO MANZI KITCHEN ART BICYCLE RENTALS GALLERY & BAR / CAFE KITCHENWARE 16 Quang An. Hoan Kiem. Khu B1 Pham Hung. artist studios. Top-end customer service and a 198 Tay Son. Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500 INDOCHINA PLAZA 241 Xuan ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY workroomfour. Hoan Kiem.IN. Dong Da.Germany) for refractive surgery. Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3733 2131 vnfam. physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back. Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Established in jieh. Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba LAN SALON HONG NGOC HOSPITAL TOP-END SALON PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL Sofitel Plaza. Tel: (04) 3715 2286 peacedentalclinic. Tay PICO MALL 229 Tay Son. Hoan Kiem. allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. Tel: 0985 870316 10 Da Tuong. Also a 24-hour emergency service. GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE 24 Ly Quoc Su. Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational. Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba A place to work. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai. Tel: (04) 3843 0748 On the little street directly below Kim Ma. Tel: 0989 067888 serenitydentalclinic. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. Pediatricians and ENT. Alley 12. Hanoi. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3826 2076. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors. Keangnam Office Tower. 28 Xuan Dieu. Cau Giay. No. workshops. Thanh PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd floor. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards. My Dinh. An Duong Vuong. Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong. Tel: (4) 3265 6888 acc. VINCOM ROYAL CITY 72A Nguyen Trai. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. Tay Ho. neck and knee pain. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3333 6016 lottecenter. Ba ACC provides effective chiropractic. Tel: (04) 3974 9999 hfh. To Ngoc Van. with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN. Hai Ba Somewhere to see something new. SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC WORK ROOM FOUR DENTAL CLINIC Packexim Building Tower JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER ANNAM GOURMET HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS 55 Yen Ninh. 49 Lane 15. Daloc. contacts and events. Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666 parkson. Tel: 1900 555596 LOTTE CENTER 54 Lieu Giai. Tay Ho. Hai Ba Trung. Ba Dinh. this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3577 1100 PARKSON Viet Tower Plaza. 65 Le AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS 44 Nguyen Du. contemporary environment add to the DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC nhasanstudio. Hai Ba Trung. but they are used to treating expats. Tel: (04) 3715 3666 GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER The Manor. Tel: (04) 6680 2770 CYCLING Dons-bistro. Ba VINCOM CITY TOWERS 191 Ba M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON 2A Cua The first experimental art space in Hanoi. Tay Ho. Tel: 0906 200434 NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM australiandentalclinic. 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu. Tel: (04) 3974 3550 . Tay Ho. Tay Ho. workshops and a wide range of art events. sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 136G Tran Vu. 53 Ly Nam kitchenart. Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST. Tel: 0987 718899 HAIR STREAM UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON 162A Hoang Hoa HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST 15 Kim Ma. high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. 51 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas. Hoan Kiem. exhibitions. 70 Hang Bac. the non-profit. Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane facebook. Ba Dinh. this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 14 Phan Huy Ich. Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES 29 Nhat DENTAL CLINIC VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM 3 Nguyen Du. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3928 7666. Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam. Dong Da. A space to create. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 6682 0400 SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER 51 Xuan Dieu. comfort and after-service care to patients. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho 19 Nguyen Truong To. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 38 Quang An. Tel: (04) 7305 8880 hongngochospital. Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc. Tay Ho. Me Tri Street. Tel: (04) 3715 3717 bumrungrad. Hanoi. 23rd Floor. GROCERIES & LIQUOR L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu. 51 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. 136 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3266 8190 SHOPPING MALLS HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Hoan Kiem.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet .

repairs and rentals. Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Dai Kim Urban Area. Tel: 3540 9183 isvietnam. Block C3. My Dinh. Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. HIS is one of the few Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. Hoan Kiem. Press Club. Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai. Tel (04) 3743 0306. 46 Van Bao. Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. Lac Long Quan. Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos. pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. Gamuda Gardens.INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu. Ciputra. Dinh Cong. Tel: (04) 3743 0589 gialonghousing. M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS 37 Ta Hien. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL 12 Chu Van An. Blg CT13B Ciputra. Hoang Mai. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3718 5203 vietlonghousing. Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS 17 Ve Ho. Km 4. Tay Ho. Tel: Tel: 0933 534999 M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302. international education options in the capital. Tay Ho. paediatrics and specialist care. restoration. Ba Dinh. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10. Does sales. 1 Thanh Nien. Tel (04) 3934 7243. Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111 libertyinsurance. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations. as well as specialist programmes from Britain. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai .org A not-for-profit. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. Tel: (04) 3718 6332 fair-realestate. Tay Ho. A notfor-profit entity. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula. Tay Ho. Xuan La. Hoa Binh International LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor. Duy Tan. America and Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. A selective. M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS 6 Ngoc Van. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary The largest home moving company in the world. independent. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828 hanoirenting. Vinhomes Riverside. Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS 106 Hang M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham. The Manor Established in A non-profit LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS 38 Hang Hom. Tel: (04) 3832 8140 hisvietnam. Tay Ho. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai. 809. 59A Ly Thai To. Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488 M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL. Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS 13 Ngo Huyen. Hoan Kiem. all taught by qualified teachers. Hoan Kiem. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane. Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Ba Dinh. Tel (04) 6666 1818 With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bishanoi. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra. 106 Hoang Quoc Viet. office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. Hoang Mai. co-educational day school.000 families in over 175 countries every day. Class sizes are small. Has a full range of services — domestic moves. HANOI Hoa Lan Road. Road VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS 21 Alley 1/22 Au Co. will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. 67 To Ngoc Van. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Tay Ho. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building. Shophouse CT17. Ciputra. Hai Ba Trung. Pending authorization. Ct13b building. Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec. Ba | April 2016 Word | 137 . Sofitel Plaza. Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.alliedpickfords. Lac Long REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor. Long Bien. Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS R714. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.qsi. Tu Liem. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound. Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified. 3rd Floor. Tay Ho. Allied Pickfords moves over 1. Tay Ho. 1st QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. Tel (04) 3726 HANOI RENTING RENTALS No. Hoan Kiem. Tel (04) 3758 2664. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. C5 – C11. 12A Ho Xuan Huong. Cau Giay.4 Phap Van. with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Tel: (04) 3936 5370 insuranceinasia. UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment. Tel (04) 3764 0209 kinderworld.

Thanh Giong. We repeated this scenario several more times. They laughed and gestured towards a mountain across the lake. now the site of a pagoda and monument in his honour. “O dau?” we asked. asked for directions. who had recently been gifted a tattoo of Thanh Giong on his left bicep by a talented Hanoian artist. turned right onto QL2A. When he had successfully defeated his adversaries. and a construction worker who barely wanted to give us the time of day. we stopped to take some photos. and then left onto QL3 into the town of Soc Son. with some farmers on the side of the road who thought we were hilarious. as we climbed into the forest. “It’s . he rode off into heaven from the top of Soc Son Mountain. about 30km northwest of Hanoi. Very lost. To get there from Tay Ho. At this point. it got a bit messy. let’s find out”. a couple of women who made us coffee at a roadside stand across from a military base in the middle of active target practice. so I took us in the direction of one. and parked at a large pagoda complex at the top of the Nhat Tan Bridge towards the airport. after a few instances of “I don’t know where this goes. We finally pulled up at an ornate archway that led up the mountain. James pulled up his sleeve to show them his tattoo. I decided I needed to make a pilgrimage to this monument with my friend James. and in return. is revered for crushing invaders from the back of a steel horse with giant sticks of yellow bamboo. and a group of teenagers pulled up requesting selfies. “Where?” pointing at the image of Thanh Giong. We obliged. we found an enormous Buddha statue.DAY TRIPPER: HANOI SOC SON Jesse Meadows makes a pilgrimage to a pagoda and statue to the northwest of Hanoi T he hero of what was described to me as “a Vietnamese bedtime story”. they rose up in front of us at a steep incline. There were quite a few peaks dotted around the village. we took the 138 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. towers of Choco-Pies at his feet in offering. we emerged on a road in the middle of a lake. Thanh Giong Inside. Stairs behind the pagoda led up the mountain.

all the women of the monastery were slowly circling the Buddha. Lesson learnt. Pro-tip: If you don’t fancy a gruelling hike up thousands of stairs. we made a rookie mistake and ended up on a highway going east. convinced we were on the right path to Thanh Giong. Choose your on-ramps carefully. it’s easy to forget what trees smell like).the stairway to heaven!” James exclaimed. It took us about half an hour with our smokers’ lungs. where a massive bronze statue of our saint on horseback stood. Take a right when the road splits. and the less intense path to the right leads directly to Thanh Giong. you might get a flat tyre on an expressway with no exit. because it’s likely you won’t be able to turn around for a long. it is possible to drive up the road to Thanh Giong’s monument. A quick jaunt up the road to the right took us to the highest point of the mountain. When we reached the top. then a left onto QL3. With the sun sinking. but at least the air we were panting was fresh (sometimes. What we found was pavement. long time. and have to push your bike for several kilometres to find a way out. head towards the airport across the Nhat Tan Bridge. On the way home. we picked our way carefully down the stairs again. the steep way straight ahead leads to the road. in the city. A procession was underway. There’s also a place where the stairs split. onto QL2A. take a left on Duong Len Den Giong. leaping toward heaven. just follow the signs back to | April 2016 Word | 139 . the faint sound of chants drifting towards us through the trees. Getting There From West Lake. Unfortunately. the weather wasn’t on our side. and the fog covered what I’m sure is a stunning view. And in our case. (But it’s definitely not as rewarding). I was expecting pay-off. when in doubt. Drive through Soc Son Town. singing between the rhythmic tones of a giant gong. wordvietnam.

62 Ly Thuong Kiet. Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds. Santa Fe offers local and international moving. Vinyasa. Tel: (04) 3771 3305 The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi. 14 Tran Binh Trong. Hoan Tu Liem bigc. separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga. This place is top of the range. Tay Ho. The Manor. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. Hoan Kiem. schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work Although a little hard to STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl. Tel: (04) 3934 2999 FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To. Tel: (04) 3755 1617 PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies. Hoan CITIMART Ground Floor. Tel: (04) 2218 5757 222 Tran Duy Hung. Vietnam Trade Hotel. Tu Liem. cakes and coffee. The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment. HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146. Tay AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To. Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative. Tay Ho. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821. Hai Ba Trung. VietClimb is a French-owned. . There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few 140 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh. Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness. Cau Giay. Membership and group rates are available. VIETCLIMB SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT vietclimb. Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness. Hoan Kiem METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. 49 Hai Ba Trung. 135 Bui Thi Xuan. Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo. SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING 84 Hang Dieu. and Kundalini With over 150 offices around the world. Tay Ho. Tel: 0914 143185 BOO SKATESHOP YOGA & NUTRITION studio5. Hoan Kiem. as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals. immigration services and records management. clothes and yoga props. FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu. relocation services including home search. Have the capacity to move property to and from any 247 Au Co. They offer clinics. Tel: 0904 356 561 M M M 40 Ngo 76 An Duong. ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ zenithyogavietnam. Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar. pet transportation. Garden Shopping Centre. Co Nhue. but be sure to check out the three-month A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations. Tel: (04) 3718 8246 score-tech. JVK is currently a leader in the field. cultural training.Hanoi JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc CLIMBING CENTRE 6273 3095 BIG C SCORE-TECH 44. My Dinh. Tel: (04) SUPERMARKETS 13 Hang Dieu. Meditation sessions. Hoan Kiem. with 130 offices globally.1515 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. classes and children’s events. Mai Dich. Essentials MMM SPORTS. Hanoi Towers. Ba Dinh. Ba Dinh. Hoan Kiem INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To. but be prepared to pay. UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS 19 Nui Truc. Cau Giay. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 6263. Tay Ho. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia. Also have a yogic shop offering incense. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 bosua.

Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van. with warm brown and tones of blue on the With well-poured drinks. Loaded with booths and a steady. Notorious for its burgers. Pham Tien Tiep. this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design. or delivery from nearby favourites. Tay Ho. mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. DJ nights and general atmosphere. Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT 284 Nghi Tam.Hanoi On the Town BARS. Hoan Kiem A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. no smoking and a midnight closing time. They also do coffee. DJ bar is notorious for… This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel. Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group. Tay Ho facebook. 95 Giang Van Minh. Amiable A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho. Ba Dinh. Tel: 0904 010116 republic. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. Tel: (04) 6276 6665 facebook. Tel: 0932 373802 A Hanoi's home-made. 56 Ly Thai To. beer or even a bite to eat. menus on blackboards and neon-coloured oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. This late-night bar has been going for years. wine. CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE Syrena Tower. EDEN HANOI MADAKE SIDEWALK HANOI THE UNICORN BAR OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE BAR & EVENT SPACE DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE End of 264 Au Co. POLITE PUB LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh. Hoan Kiem. cooked fresh to order. subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. 81 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub. 2A Hang Than. It does. Le Soleil has become a place to be seen. excellent breakfasts. Tel: 01262 054970 cama-atk. Tay Ho. Has a pizza joint. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart. homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Five star prices. being Phuc Tan. Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers. it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection. with well over a 1. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. check their With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond. Tel: (04) 3946 1901 therooftop. a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. DJ booths and dance areas. Hai Ba Trung. Unpretentious. black ceilings. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho. Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. 199D Nghi Tam. PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan. Tel: 01633 166170 A wine bar with a difference. as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL 114 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 6675 9838 When it comes to outdoor parties. Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean. Unicorn offers up a lounge space. Hoan Kiem. CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien. Lounge. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel. Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door. Check out their Facebook page for the party Located close to the Opera House. indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. Hoan Kiem facebook. To die for. A great place for coffee. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long Open late. dog-friendly. the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat. upstairs. Tay Ho. cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Tay Ho. Tay ho. A popular West Lake go-to joint. Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL 12A Nguyen Huu comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven. Tay Ho. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Hoan Kiem. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien. It’s just one of those places. Tay Ho facebook. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May. 51 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 01653 336087 facebook. Paolo and Chi.hanoi Has a downstairs. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Sofas. mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall. quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI 15/50 Quang Khanh. Has a creative comfort food menu.09XuanDieu The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges. top-shelf experience. Well worth a visit. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco. Hai Ba Trung. Check their Facebook page for details. Ba Dinh. 83B Ly Thuong Kiet. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De.000 revellers packing in at the A bar and grill with an eclectic. Pacific Place. Tasty. this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events. cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. tartines and salads. there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating. its ambient Asian-style décor. garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. It has balconies. The views here are pretty Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu. the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. pool and live football matches. and despite its Old Quarter dive status. but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in Housed in a colonial building. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An. Hoan Kiem. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. pleasant vibes. hideaway. but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor. Tel: (04) 3972 8922 vuvuzela. Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 0947 890333 facebook. this is a must for a more Vietnamese. LinkHanoi. Ba Dinh. 9 Xuan Dieu. Cheap beers. Check out their grill fare. Oh. bar stools. it still packs in the drinkers. Tel: 0915 663993 facebook. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho facebook. Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi. drinking food and a DJ booth. MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien. too. Hoan Kiem. claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. this When Vuvuzela opened up. when it comes to design. Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. Hoan Kiem. young Vietnamese crowd. bare brick. especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. a foosball table. this late night. Tay Ho A trendy. Tay Ho. this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere. CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. The venue is hip. this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. big outdoor parties. this outdoor. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city. arty bar is garnished in red and white on the A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai. there’s a grunge-style feel to the place. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor. With its LA coffee . THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB Top Floor. this alternative. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. Hoan Kiem. For a full list of Hanoi locations. Hai Ba Trung. Now.

— Billy Gray Tadioto is located at 24B Tong Dan. with shots starting at VND130. Something for creative lovers to mark on their map.000. is a reasonable VND100. metallic décor balanced with edgy lighting — the lamps around Tadioto’s tables were hand-crafted by Duc himself using recycled motorbike parts and other treasures. Hoan Kiem. “We’re not a rowdy bar — people come to exchange ideas.000. and airing the occasional film screening. That said.” says Duc. Ramping it Up Tadioto’s character isn’t just built by the décor.BAR STOOL TADIOTO PHOTO BY FUJI PHAM PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA T he best bars in any town are defined by character. the people that keep the seats warm 142 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.000 or if you prefer a single malt. has modelled a unique and original atmosphere characterised by a dim. Vodkas. There are also some lesser-seen brands that include Japanese whisky. They’re a different clientele. If you’re looking to experiment with the whisky collection then a glass of blended Scotch. a glass of a well known 10-year-old comes in at VND150. and if you’re more prone to a glass of wine.000. neat. Tadioto has character to get your creative cogs turning.000 while a draught costs VND50. Hanoi and stays open until late . People sit and talk a lot here. they’ll soon be running Sunday discussion groups on topics such as art. What makes Tadioto stand out is the type of people who frequent it. A bottled beer will set you back VND40. and if this plus the venue’s artistic design wasn’t enough. former journalist and a creative survivor of Hanoi’s bar scene. a bottle of mid-range red or white averages around VND450. weekly live jazz has recently become a fixture. Tadioto isn’t so much concerned with complicated cocktails and fancy delicacies. gins and rum range in the same area of price depending on quality. it’s not to be taken as a whisky bar. It’s certainly a place to go if you’re looking to meet interesting people from backgrounds too diverse to list here — as Duc says: “Any one night it’s just what table you sit at”. Just look out for the large red gates on the corner of Tong Dan and Ly Dao Thanh.000. The daytime food menu is refreshingly simple while the bar is stocked with a diverse selection of the usual suspects alongside an impressive collection of single malts and a growing presence of bourbon. it’s the perfect setting for a small group to share ideas or to catch up with old friends over a glass of come in many guises from artists and journalists to architects and diplomats. music and literature. Owner Nguyen Qui Duc. Situated just east of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Starting in Laos in 1996. Hai Ba Trung. and this one’s a bit of a winner. Tel: (04) 3938 2117 A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. rustic style furnishings and décor. Tel: (04) 3747 Boasting an abundance of communal seating. 6 Hoi A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. 32 Dien Bien Tay Ho. Hai Ba COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long. unpretentious and unashamedly quirky. Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro. Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE 89 Trieu Viet Vuong. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong. too. AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat.hanoi A contemporary. 27 Nha Tho. | April 2016 Word | 143 . Hoan Kiem. MAISON DE TET DÉCOR THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB LIFESTYLE CAFE CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY tet-lifestyle-collection. Tel: (04) 3936 3228. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co. this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi. western 32C Cao Ba Quat. Open every day for lunch and dinner. EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba. waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose. Tel: (04) 6292 1044 chopsvietnam. comfortable seating arrangements. the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. DUY TRI Opera House. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state. Fun. and it’s a popular one. Open 24 hours. especially late at night. Hoan Kiem. They also offer wine pairings. muffins. Tay A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva. Hoan Kiem. 3 Ha. offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos. it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120. contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Using 100 percent natural ingredients. ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu. what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular. 100A Xuan Dieu. Unpretentious. Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock. 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai. talks. Hoan Kiem. cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Hoan Kiem. a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. all scoffed down in a traditional. ice cream. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa. With numerous locations around Tay Ho Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint. Hai Ba Trung. whitewashed. too: This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.000 and other Italian delicacies. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van. Simple and unpretentious. Hoan Kiem. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy. a continuous flow of exhibitions. Tay Ho. too. as witnessed by the size of the clientele. the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas. Ba Dinh. Tel: 01238 670098 facebook.Hanoi On the Town and office feel. bare-brick walls. Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Ba Dinh. then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Served up with locally brewed craft beer. Nghi Tam Village. Tay Ho. aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe. communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe. good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. 49 Hai Ba CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De. it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end. tapas. and a focus on healthy. home-grown cafes in Vietnam. Tay Ho. Vietnamese environment. Great cuisine. Tiny. Dang Thai. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine. hip and yet surprisingly spacious. period tiles. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting. Quiet. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE 2nd Floor. Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital.000. 1. Middle-Eastern twist. cakes. Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma. TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110. 36 Tu Hoa. Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy. Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard. the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. The ood is fresh and internationally facebook. that you’re sitting in a European café. this hole-inthe-wall. Hanoi Towers. Ba Dinh facebook. this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su. Focusing on comfort food done well. soups. airy atmosphere. Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee. most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. 15 Truc Bach. the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal facebook. this 1936-established. funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances. a salad bar and an a la carte menu. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi. Serves as community centre. 47A Ly Quoc Su. This is comfort food at its finest. cereals and bagels. The food is all there. non-processed With a kitsch. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno. events and attractive décor. Ba Dinh. mindful thinking. Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection. delivery is also available. Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. for a second. Italian coffee. fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich. Tay A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living. HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts. wordvietnam. beer. Also run occasional farmers’ markets. Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup. three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. and pan-Asian mains. wine or freshly squeezed juice. Blackboards. 43 To Ngoc Van. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu. art and music. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR VIETNAMESE CAFÉ 43 Yen Phu. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running. including juice and coffee or tea. as well as CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER 4 Quang An. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong. endearing and old-fashioned. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches. and has an excellent top-floor terrace. no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. 1 Trang Tien. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN AMATO TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE 1A Trang Tien. Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. intimate and simple. Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 Villa 25. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion. MOC CAFE YOLO CAFE / INTERNATIONAL FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE 14-16 Nha Tho. all for a set price.

fruit lassis. but for those seeking complete peace and quiet away from the busy Kim Ma Street. of course. hot chocolate. for those with a sweet tooth. The menu boasts a large selection of reasonably priced drinks. I also tried a slice of chocolate Kahlua cake (VND34. The quirky greenhouse-inspired cafe in Ba Dinh District is one of the most photogenic cafés that Hanoi has to offer. including both Western and Vietnamese coffees.COFFEE CUP GARDENISTA CAFE PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM C hoosing between the matcha latte and spicy mango tea is a tough call. which looks out onto a sizable outdoor patio and bar. The staff takes turns caring for their neediest patrons. similar to mousse. it wouldn’t be a garden 144 | Word April 2016 | without some green. At night. Ba Dinh. serene atmosphere of Gardenista. The concrete walls and floor give it an urban basement feel. While the allure of Gardenista is its escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. And. lounging or making your Instagram followers jealous. ice cream and a few varieties of cake. but it’s not a deal breaker. All orders must be placed at the outdoor bar. which had a light and airy flavour and texture. carefully spritzing them with water in between orders. but the presence of so many wooden decorations and plants brings it back to earth. the outdoor patio becomes more charming. it’s also practical where it counts. it is also popular among Vietnamese fashion bloggers. grabbing an indoor table is essential. At 1pm on a weekday. and the other half is sporting headphones and plugging away on laptops. Its interior is filled with cutesy decorations that seem to suggest someone just discovered Pinterest’s DIY section and went wild. Judging by the many Instagram photos tagged at Gardenista. haphazardly painted with strips of blue and green. potted plants and knickknacks. it’s the perfect café for writing. It’s easy to get lost in the green. The cappuccino (VND46. Outdoor Charm The café is in a gated area. Beerbottle chandeliers and pinecone mobiles dangle above patrons’ heads. It offers standard fast-food fare and. illuminated by lights strung between the trees. Hanoi . Dozens of hanging plants line the fully windowed front wall.000). The chocolate garnish on top was a nice touch. half of the café is filled with groups of friends quietly chatting. which slows down the flow of service. Indoor Peace. but it’s not the most difficult decision you’ll face at Gardenista Cafe. A polished dining table holds miniature terrariums. and came with a soft cookie that was perfect for dunking. Wooden chairs. All the concrete tree planters on the outdoor patio have electrical outlets. look like they were lifted from some hip farmer’s tool shed. Whether you’re alone or with company. fresh juices and smoothies. Rather.000) was smooth and frothy. like a Totoro figurine tugging a cart with a tiny succulent inside. — Emily Petsko Gardenista is at 50 Van Bao. it’s deciding which Instagram filter to slap on that photo of an old-fashioned bathtub — brimming with plants — that has been outfitted with wooden planks and repurposed into a table.

com | April 2016 Word | 145 .wordvietnam.

com extremely difficult situations where trust is broken. It is empowering and allows us to move on. Sometimes people (in this case your wife) believe that if they just know the entire truth in all its details they will be able to trust again. but I desperately do not want that. I felt your advice was quite good.THE THERAPIST AFTER THE AFFAIR Dear Douglas. I have accepted her anger toward me. I have done all I can think of to make amends. I have talked about the healing process and how couples can get through these 146 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. we will have to divorce. where anger becomes intense and where the imagination becomes influenced by fear and mistrust. Personal details will not be printed . weakness and stuck-ness. Just last week my wife went into a rage accusing me of continuing to lie and hide things from her. I am not saying she doesn’t still have anger. She continues threatening to divorce me. I am trying to make amends. Humiliation is a condition where we internalize our shame and accept abuse. I wish you well. She needs you to set a limit and to regain the respect you can have for yourself. She checks my phone constantly and suspects anything that doesn’t seem clear to her. I have participated in all of the family events and feel like I am always available for her wants and needs. I am a man who has also cheated on my wife and children. we apologize and we try to make amends. feeling we deserve it. At this point it no longer serves the process to continue to look at text messages or for other “hidden” things. In the beginning of this process it was important that you were as transparent as possible and that you accept responsibility for what happened. Your wife cannot stop her abuse on her own. I hope you will not continue to feel “helpless”. putting our family at risk of breaking up. It is a false belief. but it is now 10 months since my infidelity was revealed and it does not feel like we have made any progress toward reconciliation. Maybe she is right. “enough is enough”. She will have to let go (or reduce the influence) of the past in order for the two of you to move on. The mistakes we make are reflections of our human condition. You can now set a limit and say. Humility is the condition where we accept responsibility for what we have Because someone is right does not mean they have permission to use that anger abusively or as a demonstration of power or as a punishment. I read the recent letter to you from a woman who has been cheated on by her husband. What can I do? — Helpless Dear Helpless. The same thing is true of anger. Righteous indignation is a kind of anger that keeps people stuck and unable to resolve the past. You can now let her know it is not acceptable. Your example is one where the process of healing can become stuck and therefore frustratingly painful for a long period of time. I am saying that BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA the intensity of that anger and the behaviour influenced by that anger is her problem and it is not helpful to tolerate it. — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail. It is not unusual for someone who is feeling guilt or shame to feel “helpless” or unable to defend themselves against intrusive or abusive behaviour. I feel like I have reached the end of my capacity to tolerate her anger and inability to move on. Going into the details of what you have done will not help your wife come to a resolution. It is a place of disempowerment. With compassion for ourselves and others we can renew the bonds we have with those we love. I have apologized and confessed to my shame and guilt. It will help her to contain her anger and to trust again.

Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food. Dong Da. reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal. CLASSIC ITALIAN LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 5 Bui Thi Xuan. Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint. Ba Dinh. 1 Thanh Nien. cold cut boards. low. high quality Like a phoenix rising from the ashes. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. poutine and burgers. Tel: (04) 3824 7280. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE facebook. Hoan Kiem. salads and On entering La Badiane. TOP-END GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi. scallops.A. this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. Hoan Kiem. a focus on steak. subtle lighting. lobster. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Fortuna Hotel. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung. Koto burgers. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE 19 Ngo Van So. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant With venues in Saigon and Bangkok. blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles. Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern too. so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho. the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc. JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong. the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet- fortuna. contemporary ambience. May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Wrap it yourself nem. Tapas are available. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of.A. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 MOOSE AND ROO Elegant and luxurious. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music. Hoan Kiem. Reservations recommended. May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza. Great selection of A leafy. home-made pasta. Also known for its moreish. as are some damn fine pizzas. Hai Ba Trung. Hai Ba Trung. and duck with currant sauce. as well as full courses such as veal. foie gras. 99 Xuan Dieu. dopiaza. this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Hai Ba Trung. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken. you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. It’s cushioned. cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta.F. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. 25 Bat Su. Tel: (04) 3828 7207 cafe-des-arts. Hoan Kiem. tasty food and large portions. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 Recently refurbished. the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. 575 Kim Ma. with of course. pastas. but this is made up for by service and ambiance. 6B Lang Ha. chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. Tel: (04) 3934 8325 Lakeside location and low bamboo seating. korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Tel: (04) 3926 4200. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials J. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3944 6317 PAN-CHINESE Situated in an art-deco villa. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and The restaurant arm of Koto. bun bo Nam With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla. an extensive wine list and slick service. 15 Ngo Quyen. Tel: (04) 3716 2959 foodshop45. 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor). Then. Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn. J. great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. carajillos and sangria. Tel: (04) 3995 0950 lasalsa-hanoi. this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. 27 Nam Ngu. Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor. Catalan-style desserts. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre. Hoan Kiem. chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Hoan Kiem. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors. Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. Tinto de MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH 11 Hang Hanh. soups. Ba tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics. LUNA D’AUTUNNO LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu. Me Tri. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3266 8968 linguinifini. comfortable and has a rooftop terrace. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. fish and chips. Tu Liem. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum. Has three floors all with different vibes. the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Tel: (04) 3926 0639. 36-38 Xuan Dieu.A. the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service. Tay Ho. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. 42B Ma May. cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend. NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere. FRENCH GRILL up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine. an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Set inside a large. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas. spinach and ricotta ravioli. Best known for their Scotch egg. Hoan verticale-hanoi. the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. which range from VND100. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3938 8388 KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. Tel: (04) 3823 7338 A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. surrounded by leaf plants. Closed Mondays. Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho. Sleek modern décor. Ba | April 2016 Word | 147 . LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto. dim sum menus and set menus. Try out their catfish spring rolls. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes. a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar. The beverages are not the cheapest. this wonderful restaurant is your typical. soups and cheeses. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available. Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi. and predominantly white walls. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Tel: (04) 3942 4509 MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho. Clever CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT wordvietnam. pork and seafood is also up for grabs. INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra. European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien. Tay Ho. thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas. Known for its With unique decor. the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Hoan Kiem. Serving An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees.F. KY Y labadiane-hanoi. Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. namese-French fusion cuisine. Hoan Kiem. 8 Do Duc Duc. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona.

and he’s right. Located in the Sheraton Hotel. he found a home at Hemispheres eight months ago. with a set menu for 120 grams of beef starting at VND1. and seafood options starting at VND1. various cuts are on display. For Chef Patrick. From Black Angus to Wagyu to Nebraska prime. Modest for a 29-year-old who was ranked among the top 10 best chefs in Asia in the 2014 San Pellegrino International Chef Challenge. with higher marbling resulting in richer. are determined by the marbling. with flavours that guests would know. And if you require entertainment. Hemispheres has all kinds .” laughs Chef Patrick Morris. while you enjoy the fresh view of the garden and West Lake. you can watch your dinner being made through massive glass windows that encircle the open 148 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Surf and Lots of Turf The first thing Hemispheres wants you to see. Chef Patrick explains. The vaulted wood ceiling makes the space feel grandiose. The characteristics of a steak. so you can eat steak like a kitchen.5 million. “When in doubt. just chuck some butter in it. working resorts in Queensland. This marbling ranges from grades 1 through 12. Rich and heavy. “I kept it pretty simple. Yet not once do you lose the sense that everything here.” he says of those on the higher end of the scale. Patrick started his career as an apprentice at the age of 15. or fat content. After moving to the south of Thailand to gain international experience. Originally from Australia. more buttery steaks. and every table is surrounded by plush armchairs. In a case by the door.3 million. The restaurant even boasts the only Hitachi beef in Hanoi. But the choices don’t stop there. It’s the kind of place where the waiting staff takes your order with a gentle smile. though. the food is served before you even notice. Hemispheres is a classy establishment with a contemporary edge. in the beef.” he explains.TOP EATS HEMISPHERES I f this restaurant had a mascot. it would be butter. every dish wraps you in the comfort of American-style steakhouse decadence. you’ve got options. is their steak. butter plus meat equals a brand-new menu for Hemispheres — and an extensive one at that. His menu is centred around surf-and-turf. from the cuisine to the décor. “It just melts in your mouth. is located in the modern day. straight from Ibaraki prefecture in Japan.

creamy red wine and Dijon mustard reduction.000). It was. beets and garlic. salmon. comforting starter that warms your insides and satisfies your umami sensors. Again. and crumbles of crispy chocolate wafer. contrasted by a tart black cherry topping and red wine sauce. There’s only one thing to finish off a meal of meat and butter — chocolate. topped with French foie gras and served with brioche. Patrick is serious about his sauces — some cook for up to three days before they’re ready for the plate. cooked for four hours in duck fat. Scallops. stomachs full and smiles wide. strawberries. a traditional Provencal fish stew (VND290. Tay Ho. Hanoi or online at sheratonhanoi. shrimp. Last but not least. a delicious introduction. so we decided to try some of their more exotic varieties. When served. we sunk our forks into herb-crusted lamb from New Zealand (VND800. and finished with — you guessed it — butter. the meat was drizzled with a truffle jus and topped with juicy wild mushrooms. this dish consists of a lattice-work chocolate ball surrounding a chef’s selection of treats inside. It’s interactive. roasted baby carrots. the sauce made the dish. slowly simmered with lamb neck bones. perfect for soaking into some house walnut bread. baby carrots. and slowroasted shallots. and sure to induce a serious food coma. and clams from Nha Trang and Hai Phong are poached in a rich soup of saffron. The meat. Our next dish was duck confit.000). hot melted chocolate is drizzled over the structure until it cracks and wordvietnam. topped with roasted asparagus. Continuing our tour of Hemispheres’ extensive list of meats. Au Co. Ngo 1. exposing a core of mint ice cream. — Jesse Meadows Hemispheres is on the ground floor of the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel. We left Hemispheres with eyes halfclosed. I tried my first bite of venison tenderloin (VND950.000).com | April 2016 Word | 149 .000). fennel and tomatoes. Served almost rare due to its very low fat content.PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA of meats to mix and match. a thick. Aptly named the ‘Chocolate Extravaganza’ (VND160. needless to say. fun to watch. Bring on the Sauce We started with Patrick’s take on a French bouillabaisse. is rich and buttery. asparagus. The result is a savoury.

Brian McNaull is the Medical Director of Family Medical Practice Hanoi. She was lucky. While you are Calling for Help Always make the call for help immediately. Ba Dinh or call (04) 3843 0748. you’re not a medical professional (unless. or just hold their hand. we recently treated a young expat girl who drove her bike over a pot hole in the road which was deeper than she expected. map reference. Movement is only recommended if the patient might be in more danger. commence CPR. Dr. landmarks.MEDICAL BUFF ROAD ACCIDENTS W e are continually dealing with patients who have been in traffic accidents. Firm pressure on a wound will stem bleeding. you are one!) So it’s not your job to treat major injuries — just try to keep victims safe until professional help arrives. BRIAN MCNAULL possible danger to yourself or other providers. Over the handle bars she went and subsequently crashed to the ground. — Description of the incident. — If an open bleeding fracture to a limb. For more advice on any medical topics. The ‘golden hour’ can be a few minutes to several hours from the moment of injury. Responding to an accident or pain is ‘time critical’ — there is no time to waste — but what should you do if you are at an accident. depending on the severity of the accident. however you will need to reassure the nervous. shade them from the sun. Try to remember to always put on your safety belt when you are in the car and if you ride motorbikes. Making a Difference Once you engage with the patient and start to help you must stay at the site until the Emergency Service team arrives and you will be able to provide information to them. as this could worsen their injuries. FMP’s Ho Chi Minh City clinics are at Diamond Plaza. — Don’t give casualties anything to eat or drink. want to help. We know riding a bike will increase the likelihood that you have an accident in Vietnam. CPR. Don’t move them. Some 95% of our traffic accidents are as a result of motorbikes or scooters. this is really important when the traffic flows in both directions. Make sure the following information is given to the medical services: — Your telephone number (if you are cut off the emergency service will be able to contact you) — The location of the incident. electric wires. If the casualty is not breathing. Doctors talk about the ‘golden hour’ — a euphemism for the time after an accident when medical assistance is needed. Remember. Vietnam has very different road safety rules compared to your host country. — Stop bleeding. with cuts and a broken arm. Be sure to follow the road safety rules you use at home and make sure family and children always look both ways when crossing the street. etc. 95 Thao Dien. satnav positioning reference. Q1. This can cause complications for medics and delay life-saving treatment. Road names or numbers. this is the window of opportunity for medical intervention. The quiet casualties are probably the worst injured. You can also cover them with something warm if they need it. — Check for breathing. Be calming and assure the victim that help is coming. but medical assistance is too far away? 150 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. as people around her got her to the side of the road as quickly as possible and then she was given immediate medical assistance. Being a First Aider has many benefits and regular First Aid Courses are always possible and can save lives. apply tourniquet pressure above the injury to reduce blood loss. — Don’t move casualties: You may cause further injury unless more imminent danger is possible to either the victim or yourself (electrical or fire hazard). or if you can’t. helmets are a must. Q2 . 34 Le Duan. for example: “Motorcycle has hit a bus — the motorcyclist is not moving.” If it’s safe to proceed and you need to assist the victims who need help: Try to talk to those who are hurt. you may be instructed to perform any necessary treatments. then ask some one else to do it for you. a possible fire or oncoming vehicles. Simple First Aid — Immediately look around for any BY DR. visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi on 298 I Kim Ma. of course. bleeding control and choking can all be helped and your assistance can significantly impact the victim’s recovery. do not remove any objects which have penetrated the body. noisy ones that help is on the way.

Tay Ho PHO TU LUN PHO BO 23 Hai Ba Trung. local ingredients. Renowned for the highly rated. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES 54 Hang Chieu. all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. 241 Xuan Thuy. Tel: (04) 3933 4801 Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. facebook. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO 48 Hang Dong. Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types. Indochina Plaza. Set in the American Club. Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO 49 Bat Dan. homemade juices. Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House. laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. casual. Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA 1 Hang Dieu. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh. Simple living. Au Co. PIZZA 4P’S namastehanoi. 24 Hai Ba Trung.Hanoi On the Town changing imagery on the walls. 6 Luong Van Can. Hueinfluenced The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 PHO CUON HUNG BEN 24 Ly Quoc Su. The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL The American Club. 2 Hang Hom. Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules. Vietnamese fusion cuisine. But it’s the twist on old world This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. In a sentence? Curry. 1 Trang Tien. All dishes are made in house. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. BIT TET NGON SO 5 27 Dinh Tien A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk. Hoan Kiem 3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM 18 Dang Thai Mai. American-style sides. Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood. Tel: (04) 3747 6245 25 Hang Ca. Hoan Kiem PHO CUON 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu. Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON 14 Hang The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this 3 Nguyen Khac Can. muffins and Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI . but not as you know it. Cau Giay JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom. oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. this unique fine dining restaurant. fresh-cooked aroma of bread. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh. and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. bar and lounge blends the old with the new. friendly staff and a loveable owner. Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO 5 Phu Doan. Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO 67 Hang Dieu. a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. The delivery service is quick and reliable. a meal will cost you between VND150. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem. Hanoi. Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON 6 Ngo 31 Xuan Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO.000 and everything is there. Huge wine lists. Ba Dinh wrap-roll. think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO 10 Ly Quoc Su. dining is both indoors and out. mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients. pies. all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi. like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings. Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO 13 Lo Duc. Lane 1. bamboo MIXED GLASS NOODLES POTS ‘N PANS Waffles. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe. but not as you know it. Hoan Kiem. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier. WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK 20A Hoe 57 Quoc Tu Giam. Hoan Kiem 8B. Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH 7B Ly Quoc Su. energetic and beautifully designed. Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 3939 2470 mooseandroo. quiches. Tay Ho. Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent. 19-21 Hai Ba Trung. luxury and mystery. Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans. and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. STREETFOOD PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA 7 Nam Ngu. the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch. Hoan Kiem. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes. Tel: (04) 3935 2400 18 Dien Bien Phu. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN 247Au Co. 47 Ma May.000 and VND300. Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO pizza4ps. GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance. Tel: (04) 3747 8337 hanoixua. and healthy. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. Trang Tien Plaza. Hoan Kiem XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE 44 Hang Hom. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ OLD HANOI Spacious. from curries and breads to soups and desserts. on-site smoked meats together with all the typical. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor. this thekafe. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore. NAMASTE HANOI PANE E VINO THE KAFE PAN-ITALIAN CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE facebook. Nghi Tam Village. 67 Duong Thanh. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu. 138 Trieu Viet Vuong. this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community. a private chef’s table with a kitchen view. Unit 108. Hoan Kiem.

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com .Ho Chi Minh City Day Tripper HCMC / Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Amazing Grapes / Know Your City / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good Photo by Kyle Phanroy 154 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.

30am to 10pm Cosmetics. Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery. Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. Perfume. 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. 54-56 Bui Vien. Accessories. Q3. Accessories. Food Court HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong. 17/14 Le Thanh Ton. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. Has an excellent home delivery service. Q7. Accessories. Q1. donuts and brownies. Q1. Petroland Tower. Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa. Q3. Tel: (08) 6674 9565 Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery. Q1. this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District.abcbakery. M M M VOELKER BAKERY 39 Thao Dien. Has a good selection of ESL texts. Le Van Thiem. local telecom wires and motorbikes to Baguettes. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY harvestbaking. Established in A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam. The background of this Korean bakery chain makes pnc. Monday to Sunday. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon. 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam. Q1. Q1 BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien. 60-62 Le Loi. Q1. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GINKGO DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Open to all SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien. Electronics. 2 Cao Thang. Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop. Online ordering available. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2. airy atmosphere. Perfume. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9. Q3. Clothing. Q1. Q1 touslesjoursbakery. Check the website for details. Q1. Q1 BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 40 Nguyen Hue. Q1. Café.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries. Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm. Perfume. Worth checking out. LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du. Tel: (08) 3824 3754 Quality. the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam. Q1. the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Perfume. Q1. Electronics. Q5. 35-45 Le SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor. New World Hotel. Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima. Q1. Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Siddharta-style imagery. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious. Clothing. Café. Food Court ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai. Food Court VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi. toys and a range of related products. Café. With a production facility in Thu Duc. elegant and SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi. 57 Le Thi Hong. 59 Tran Hung Dao. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag. Accessories. quiches and pies in town. Q7 interesting reading. 9am to 8pm AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor. Clothing. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh. Q1. Has eight locations and counting. Q7. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor. croissants. M M M breadtalkvietnam. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi. 76 Le Lai. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. Tran Quy Building. muffins. Q1. Accessories. Thanh Ton. pendant scarves and cushion covers. cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Perfume. Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel. Q1. covering for all ages and tastes. Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 3562. Electronics.30am to 10pm Cosmetics. Clothing. Electronics. 469 Nguyen Huu Tho. Q1 9am to 9pm TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE 180 Hai Ba Trung. 2nd Floor Parkson Center. Q1 PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 2A Le Duan. Vivo City. Electronics. Tel: (08) 3521 8755. Q1. Q1. Although there are some English-language texts in this modern. Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics. the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. French-styled with an Asian touch. 12 Tan Trao. Clothing. Electronics. Q2. Food Court SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Electronics VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton. Binh Thanh.HCMC Essentials BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ 223 Pham Ngu Lao. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 8430 BAM SKATE SHOP auschamvn. An Phu. Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam. Unit cakes. Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. for the occasional gem. Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade. 71 Pasteur. Q7. Food Court . 151 Dong Khoi. Only books written in French are for Exclusive labels. Lotte Mart. Tel: (08) 3832 9912 This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear. Eximland Building. Café. Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. Food Court PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton. Café. amchamvietnam. NORDCHAM 17th Floor. Café. in 2004 they opened in the US. Clothing. PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan. Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham. well laid out bookstore. Perfume. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305. breads. 76 Le Lai. Accessories. LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY SHOPPING MALLS 37 Thao bbgv. Q1.

never too full of other people to intrude on your privacy. we ended up bringing our own. Daytime here is different. under-maintained yet eerily beautiful. What we discovered felt like a forgotten oasis — run-down. The accommodation is basic. Fortunately it’s never too crowded. The idea was to go camping and light up a barbecue at this self-styled ‘eco resort’ just over an hour from central Ho Chi Minh City. The place even has a castlelike structure. 156 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. you’ll be sitting outdoors in the open air. and being on a budget. I wish we had rented or brought some tents. suspension bridges and a waterfall. Back to that A Failed Paradise? Operating Cao Minh on a budget means that all the lofty constructions — the swimming pools. Due to our friends’ preferences. after dark Cao Minh provides a sense of countryside isolation that makes it a perfect. The only problem? We didn’t have any tents. And while food and drink is sold on-site. kept the place running at a minimum cost. It would have added to the experience.000 (VND2. Forget aircon — this place is fan-cooled and at night. I also found myself thinking that with around US$100. Once upon a time the ideas may have been sound. jet skis and zip lines — have gone unused. getaway from the city. . Yet the fact so much was not working was part of the charm. Surrounded by trees and water. it made a bit more sense. People from all around seem to descend on the resort. When we left I had one regret.2 billion) worth of investment. Words and photos by Kyle Phanroy I was headed to Mui Ne on a road trip when a few friends asked us to join them for a night at a place called Cao Minh. So he took his finger off the pulse and rather than investing. It was cheaper and more fun. Our guess was that the owner — a well-known singer who gave his name to the resort — had not created the cash cow he had hoped for. Not that it mattered so much. It’s a nice thought. if slightly run-down.DAY TRIPPER: HCMC CAO MINH A detour on the route to Mui Ne unveils a getaway only 40km from Saigon. It was just a question of authenticity. Perhaps they just weren’t executed properly. you could make the place work again and return it to its former glory. So mosquito coils are a must. we ditched the idea of renting tents and ended up in a cabin that housed 10 people — it only cost around VND1 million.

close to Tri An | April 2016 Word | 157 . Vinh Cuu. Follow the road for about 12km. Xa Vinh Tan. Dong Nai. Cao Minh is on the right hand side. The resort is located to the northeast of Bien Hoa.Information Khu Du Lich Sinh Thai Cao Minh is at 547 Ap 2. wordvietnam. For further info call 0914 189121 or click on dulichcaominh. To get there go down Highway 1A north out of Ho Chi Minh City and go through Bien Turn left at Nga Ba Tri An (Tri An Junction) onto TL767.

Nordcham. the Singapore Business Group. not registered where they live etc. simultaneous multiple wives and children. If you have been an expat for any length of time in a developing market. or plain old-fashioned dodgy drug dealing. So the next time someone hands you a business card and offers you some advice. ripping off business partners. insurance or property and yet have no business email account. We all know the answer already — they’re dodgy. you should get behind at least one charity organization with at least social support if not financial. Over time I have realized it is not them BY SHANE DILLON meeting new and better friends. He can be contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross. in general these are the tell-tale signs of who you are dealing with. Be warned — they could be dodgy. No Charity Support. It still amazes me that there are financial services “professionals” who offer advice on investment. I have met a few expats over my time that change social/friendship groups on a regular basis. it just might save you a lot of hassle down the road. Who knows. but old ones figuring out how dodgy they are and the expat having to move on to the next bunch of way to meet some quality expats. Change of Companies.BUSINESS BUFF DODGY EXPATS M ark my words you will see more dodgy expats in Vietnam in the coming years as it starts to become an even easier place to live for foreigners. They come up with every imaginable reason why it’s better to fly under the radar. Some examples of the ‘dodgy expat’ include. @gmail or @hotmail for business. If the expat goes to girly bars a few nights every week. Eurocham. No Chamber Affiliation. this means they need to pay people to hang out with them and pretend they are somewhat interesting while they get drunk. If it was accurate it would say @dodgy. Girly Bars. Over my past 13 years as an expat and eight years in Vietnam I have met some of the best and worst of the expatriate community. Many expat managers in Vietnam complain about how quickly Vietnamese change jobs and this is also a warning sign for expats. but at the end of the day the main reason is that they are dodgy. make a mental check with the above list. This is by far one of the best ways to spot a dodgy expat. and get the inside scoop if they might be dodgy. If they hit on more than three of these be warned: they are probably ‘dodgy’. Go to a chamber event — those that are members in general are far more professional and legit than those who are not . no tax code. AmCham. Auscham. Change of Social Group. If the business card has @gmail just turn and run. Shane is an executive director of the Australian Chamber of Commerce. While there may be some exceptions to my list. there is a good chance there is something dodgy going on. No work permits. Next time you meet an expat ask them what charity they support. No Paperwork. Here is a great 158 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. BBGV. This month I have made an easy checklist of how to spot a dodgy expat. InCham — all super examples of great business network chambers to join. We all know some expats who have lived the expatriate lifestyle but have never had the legal paperwork to do so. If the expat has changed companies every few months then there is a probably a problem with the person not the companies. abandoning long-term girlfriends who become pregnant. If someone is best buddies with a group one week and the worst of enemies the next.

Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific. 30A Nguyen Huu Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. Also do event management This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture.sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese VIETJETAIR vietjetair.30pm JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar. shelves and kitchen cabinets. Rental scooters and bikes available. Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9. EM EM SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi CRAFTS & FURNITURE T&V TAILOR ATC FURNITURE TAILORS ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE 39 Dong Du. All products are samples. Q1. Tel: (08) 3519 0023 TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.3. Dist. CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh AIR FRANCE SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba multinational cuisine days. Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien. Q2. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu. CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Tel: (08) 3820 9734 TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton. COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh. such as the Soba Festival. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse. 26 Ly Tu VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines. the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai. so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Respro face masks.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai 232 Bui Vien. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. Q1. Nina Ricci. bags. Q1. Tel: (08) 3840 3946 triciaandverona. CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines. sofas and curtains. stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. VietnameseJapanese cooking SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair. knickknacks. posters and more. Q1. Binh Thanh. cultural art events and monthly special activities. homewares. 80 Xuan Thuy. books. Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij. cameras. corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski. The Overland Club organises pottery classes. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Italian This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive U. Q1 LAO AIRLINES THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. 4th Floor. Tel: (08) 3824 4556 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. pottery painting classes. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite JAPAN AIRLINES vn. Ungaro and more. MANDARINA AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia. MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines. Tel: (08) 3932 6455. Lifestyle accessories include shoes. Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts. Q2. | April 2016 Word | 159 . The threehour VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS KOREAN AIR koreanair. DVDs. Q1. A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM. Cerruti 1881. the art of decorating paper and atc-craft.Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon. riding gear. Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass. Christian Lacroix.

sential vitamins and nutrients our bodies require to maintain could be farther from the truth — try to get right back on track with your next meal. The time of day you eat calories doesn’t matter as much as what you eat and how much compared to your activity levels. 2) “Eat five meals per day at regular times”. This olden-day way of thinking should have no place in the modern or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. certain good fats actually turn off the fatstoring genes and turn on the fat-burning ones. Different foods affect the body in very different ways depending what nutrients. Foods containing protein are more likely to fight off hunger the longest. many of the food and dieting rules we hold dear are meant to be broken. Skip- ping a meal means you will be even hungrier at the next meal. This can also affect your metabolism by causing it to slow down. or lack of. maybe even followed them at some point. nutrition experts say. Most commonly held beliefs about dieting won’t help you lose weight or make dieting any easier. as it will elevate insulin levels that can cause a fat storing state instead of a fat burning state. 6) “Skipping a meal every now and then will help you lose”. People are more likely to compliment you on your will power. In the end. It is now socially acceptable to turn down food you know is not healthy or will hinder your weight-loss goals.BODY AND TEMPLE DIET RULES MADE TO BE BROKEN E verybody seems to have some go-to dieting rules when trying to lose unwanted pounds. Your body will generally automatically regulate your weight in a healthy range if not clogged up with toxins and chemicals. where you are likely to then overeat. Putting on fat has more to do with the total calories and quality of food you consume over a 24-hour period or over a week. The best approach is to eat when you’re hungry. You’ve probably heard all sorts of silly rules. but it will not help you control your appetite. Everyone’s metabolism is different and there is no golden rule to stick to. 4) “When you blow your diet. not when the clock says it’s time to eat. Furthermore. Fortunately. Fat is an eslonger. . you might as well wait until the next day to get back on track”. If you are not active then eating five meals per day is a mistake. 5) “Refusing food at a party or when visiting is rude”. There is really only one rule that we should all try to uphold. experts have proved this false. That is to always eat “real food” and therefore stay away from processed foodstuffs. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert BY PHIL KELLY 3) “Dietary fat keeps you feeling full 7) “Fat is fattening”. This rule sential part of your diet and contains es- came to existence due to the fact that fat takes longer to digest. Nothing 8) “All calories are equal”. Here are eight food rules you can ignore: 1) “Eating at night will pile on the pounds”. at his website bodyexpertsystems. Let’s weigh up a few common diet rules and see if there is any truth in them. We need to take the focus off calories and place it firmly on nutrient density. are consumed with those calories. Contact him on 0934 782763. 160 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. so you’ll eat less”.

The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts. NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi. 65 Le Loi. Q2. Tran Quoc Thao. Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale. Q3 INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2). with the full range of accessories in prosthodontics. Check Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. com. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 250 Nguyen Van Huong. which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants. Thao CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM Specialising in Trek and Surly.HCMC Essentials FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien. 39 Le Duan. this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. Tel: (08) 3821 6115 nhaxinh. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end | April 2016 Word | 161 . Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high wordvietnam. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM 384 Tran Phu. a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. as well as the full selection of accessories. 168 Vo Thi Sau. Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience. EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 81 Xuan Thuy. 68 Le Loi. Tel: (08) 3744 6405 thebikeshopvn. FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers. Q3. for more details. Tel: (08) 3930 4190 DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza. Q2. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Q5. Invisalign & orthodontics. dental implants. M M M NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor. Tel: (08) 6657 0788 REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Q1. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. Accessories are found on the level above. Jett. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke. Organises regular cycle rides. and support proper balance development. Q3. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. Q3. Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 57A. HCMC. Q1. Q1. Saigon elitedental. Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent. GT and Aluboo. Q1. Tel: (08) 5410 3114 The showroom home of Jett remixdeco. does repairs and rentals. ALL-ON-6 Tel: (08) 3933 3737 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic. Q2. Thao Cycles.

com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels. Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3822 LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon. Tan Phong. Tel: (08) 35 191 777 SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. 5B Ton Duc Thang. dental services and chiropractic medicine. Rougie foie SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints. 27 Nguyen Trung GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi. 27 Nguyen Ba Lan. Q1. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods. the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.cashmiri@gmail. and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. GALERIE QUYNH 65 De UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali. spices and a wide selection of dairy An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology. Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods. SPORTS 15/5 Le Thanh Ton. Q1. 41A Thao Dien.chew@vietnamhockey. Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail. Now has a second newer gallery 162 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT CLINIC DENTAL INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te. MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam. PHUONG HA SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh. WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic. Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing. fresh poultries.shimokawaji@sapporobeer. Sells prints of the originals and related products. live seafood and vegetables. Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. fruit. Q1. the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2. Tel: (08) 6294 7059 san-art. In addition to their excellent range of wines. Q2. organic fruit and vegetables. Q. 702 Nguyen Van OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm. This wellestablished gallery supports education through SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl. lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on Specialising in healthcare. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages. Q1 INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Q2. also distributing brands like San Pellegrino. Tel: (08) 3740 7105 TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai. Q1. Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery. Q3. X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Q10. Tel: 0909 967 353 SAIGON RAIDERS ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Long–established. Tel: 01228 770 038 Saigonraiders. Q7 Saigon-ultimate. Binh San Art is an independent. at 165 Calmette. its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Orthodontics is also available. free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak. the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Canadian. 17. Galbani .amit@yahoo.HCMC Essentials skilled dental service. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location. No. the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and. PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball. artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists. SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University. Tel: (08) 3744 2565 meatworksasia. Tel: 0938 889899 Focusing on the retail trade. Has regular exhibitions. Q2. Thao SPORTS — GENERAL ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven. also sells frozen meat and fish. SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB deepteshgill@gmail. Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. Q7 (across from FV Hospital). lectures and publications. meat. herbs. astere@hotmail. Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard. Q2. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices. AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail. pre-marinated. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat. Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam. Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. Tel: 0976 469 090 they also stock imported beers. bottled mineral water and spirits. HCMC MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam. THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP ANNAM GOURMET MARKET CRICKET richard. Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij. if you so wish. Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. GROCERIES & LIQUOR GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba FOOTBALL & RUGBY VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER dogmacollection. Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ ULTIMATE FRISBEE eccsaigon. VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish rington@ market-edge. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy. the same beef served up at El Gaucho. Tel: (08) 3836 8019 HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh. 702 Nguyen Van Linh. Q1. this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. com saigonhash. Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet. Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24. Tel: 0986 973 244 HASH HOUSE HARRIERS gmunish29@yahoo.Q2 ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. In operation since 2009. Q1. imported beers and SQUASH The Landmark. Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat. Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare. SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao. Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street). modern clinic with French.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen. skin care and surgical consultations. this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Q3. includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung. Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa. offers massages lasting from 30 minutes. providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. hairwashing to State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Tel: (08) 3939 3930 Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays. sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. Q1. Bitexco Financial Tower. physiotherapy. Q1. Thao Dien. paediatrics and acupuncture. Tel: (08) 3822 7848. Q1. Q1. Crescent Plaza. Q2. GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue. check–ups.HAIRDRESSERS. Tel: (08) 3827 2366 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330. Of course. Q2. Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 americaneyecentervn. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza. Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa. Q1. Q2.000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa Modern and bright downtown spa. Cheap prices. giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. Q1. Q1. Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. 2 Hai Trieu. Q1. Plus sports and Japanese-style haircuts. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang. Q7. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook. Experienced American. CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke. Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital. travel medicine and medical evacuations. too. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor. Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. they have to look fabulous. Thuan An District. Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails. Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail. HAIR BAR JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep. Q1. body and foot care. 34 Le ACC provides effective | April 2016 Word | 163 . Saigon South A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung. paraffin and waxing services. neck and knee pain. Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. Q1. glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. 105 Ton Dat Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic. this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts. to two-hour hot stone therapy. treatments at this Japanese spa include facial. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL Binh Duong Boulevard. Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite. Street 41. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien. providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas.acc. gynecology. psychotherapy. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy. Thao Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors. Q1 wordvietnam. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor. acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back. as well as steam-sauna. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. too. Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar. ophthalmology. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. cosmetic treatments. Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068 hanhphuchospital. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh. Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia. in– patient and out–patient International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere. 95 Thao Dien. and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology. Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure. especially maternity care.

AQA. 628C Hanoi Highway. as well as speciality cover for student travel. Q1. Q2. to align with their regional sister companies. ABCIS is accredited by CIE. clarinet and saxophone. Continental Tower. Q2. 190 Nguyen Van PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano. women’s health and internal The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato. inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. funk. 39 Le Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names. Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac. hip-hop. ballet. salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. Le Van The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care. Tel: 1800 599 998 libertyinsurance. honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Somerset Vista. It is a play-based. 1A Me Linh Square. Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub. Tel: (08) 6287 0804 The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2. Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors. Q2. 36 Thao Dien. from Blue Cross Vietnam.HCMC Essentials HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong. Q2. IF CONSULTING IBC Building. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus. BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai. health. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor. travel. diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Contact them now for a free quote. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858 Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual. tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP). international marine. Tel: 0907 729 846 SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail. Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary). Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao. 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway). Q1. Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu. An . APSC Compound. Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36. the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor. home insurance and much more. travel insurance. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong. extreme athletics and adventure. ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor. 3rd Floor. Thao Dien Campus. in the early years. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. respectful collaboration with their Skype: jp. Thu Thiem Campus. inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close. An Phu. Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling. An Phu. Q2. Q2. Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic. Q2. cardiology. Specialist care is available in many fields. TAE KWON DO BP Compound. Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinasia. A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu. 164 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 pacificcross. Q3. Their reputation for transparent. allowing them a head start in life. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong. Q2. Q2. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. Q2. 71-79 Dong Khoi. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Q2. Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn. International coaches provide training in soccer. family or company needs. Q2. Q2. digestive diseases. The clinic utilises the latest therapies. health Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for Q2. Q7. Lane 42. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. Kumho Asiana Plaza. academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools Children and teenagers can enjoy Inspected and approved by the British Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong. Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn. Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam. Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary). Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. belly dancing. Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36 theabcis. SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2. basketball. an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed. Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam. Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien. 81-83-85 Ham Nghi. Tel: (08) 3519 2727. Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano. Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh. medevac. 720K Thao Dien. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance. Tel: (08) 3744 6960. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs. Q1. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning.

vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings. Talented. 27/3 Ha Huy Tap. Has a newly built campus. SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. mini-pool. IB and AP) from elementary to Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC). Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool. Tel: (08) 3740 8081 cis. Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. Q2. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA. Q2. Thao Dien. Thanh My Loi. Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99 issp. This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. gymnasium. Phu My Hung. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan. Vietnam. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh. Street Nr. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan. certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic Year 13. Binh Thanh. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Tel: (08) 3898 9100 aavn. featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap. With 100% English language immersion. The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. IT labs. Tel: (08) 3898 9816. ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC . SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound. Known for unique facilities. emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. a 1:1 University Counseling Program. The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12.American Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative. Q7. saigonkidskindergarten. Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori. MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. a library containing over 13. music and drama rooms. and small class sizes. 10. ISHCMC — American Academy is a U. 5.S.500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English. highquality learning resources. based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International a 350-seat professional theatre. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong. Q7. Tel: (08) 3744 HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. swimming pool. Q2. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh. inquiring and caring for others. 15 Tran Ngoc Dien. Q7. Thao Dien. play-areas. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 eishcmc. and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund. Tel: (08) 5412 3456 KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien. The school educates global citizens to enjoy | April 2016 Word | 165 Vietnam’s only international school offering a U. experienced staff. playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Tel: (08) 5413 0901 Offers an American-style education (SAT. Early university Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Tel: 0903 952223 tas. Q2. TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and wordvietnam. NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool. Q7. BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. Q2. MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy. Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo. science labs and an all-weather pitch. Q2. Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc. Tel: (08) 5412 5944 Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme.

As he .THE GYM DIARIES PART 6 Struggling to get in shape. nothing is ever straightforward 166 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Owen Salisbury tries another tack and gets himself down to the doctor.

talk to the experts. If you think something isn’t working. need to specifically check their hormone levels. I urge you all to take stock. new challenges that won’t make their way into these pages. which I have. One in three. He’d been through it. Knowing is always better. One bed over. if you’re a man and you begin to experience lethargy. All told. At the advice of my trainer. Dan. he spotted it fairly quickly. Is it benign? How long has it been going on? What’s caused it? How do I get better? The implications are only beginning to sink in. Should I be totally honest and open about all this? Forget the column. My number just came up. She moans softly. and my general malaise looked all too familiar to | April 2016 Word | 167 . This is new for me. She rolls me onto my side. The other unexpected result is that I probably have some form of anaemia. I hesitate and she makes another pulling motion. I thought I’d lose weight… still trying. I thought my health would improve. Women. But as I mentioned last month. It has PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN also revealed new battles. I thought this would be a straightforward column. depression. mixed martial arts and random crazy girls!) then you’re far more at risk for low testosterone levels. Next month. and I’ve struggled a lot. Facing the Unexpected This month’s column won’t have much to do with the gym. and I should know where matters are headed. too. weight gain. Get tests. Answers Lead to Questions A blood test I took last week shows that I have low testosterone. If you’ve ever had a head injury (as I have) or testicle injuries (thanks. swipes my flank with iodine and jabs the needle in. A Technical Success Next month. Having lived through it himself. I never expected my life to tilt so sharply. as many as one-third of us deal with this. Get a second opinion. The pain is fleeting. A needle in the ass. but who does? As much as I had expectations. because then you can do something. say. I bare my ass. a young man strokes a woman’s hand. The confusion isn’t. but I’ve had only my first injection. approximately half of the lowest amount considered acceptable for a man my age. I set out to change my life. then believe me. Though still too early to be certain. And life is never straightforward. muscle loss. this is my life and the internet is forever. Europe? Japan? China? Getting serious about my health was the impetus behind this whole experience. behind spending thousands of dollars on a personal trainer. and it has. twice a week. Her English is limited but her meaning clear. wordvietnam. It will be a fitting way to close this column.BY OWEN SALISBURY T he nurse gestures at my pants. wittingly or not. but it took a while for him to be certain enough to offer specific advice. you should get your hormone levels checked. after all. If this therapy works. So far I feel nothing. the money is well spent — and I have to commend trainer Daniele Morretti for his sharp judgment. I thought I’d gain muscle. lack of motivation. it looks like this change will be for the good. I should be able to tell you if the treatment is working. My mind floating in 10 different directions. things never quite gelled. When Your Number Comes Up But as I wrote last month. There are no screens. forever. How much will my health revolve around these two shots? How much will my life? Will I be able to travel all the places I want to travel? Will I be able to take needles and steroids to. lack of libido. if you just don’t feel right. I went and got my testosterone levels tested. If I want to feel normal I will be on hormone replacement therapy (HRT) for the foreseeable future. the diary of a guy in his mid-to-late 30s trying to get some basic fitness back. anxiety. I should have answers to some of these questions.

comfort and Thao especially in District 2. constructions and interior decoration. 26 .com Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves. com for The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. modern amenities. EXILE INK 608 57 Xuan Thuy. as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. Lafayette De Saigon. Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular. with services including door-to-door moving. Tel: (08) 3941 5322 G. JVK is a leader in the TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien. Q3. ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor. 5 Nguyen Gia SAIGON BODY ART 135 Cong Quynh. Tel: (08) 3822 9197.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh. Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat. logicalmoves. over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Q2. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. Q1. Q1. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur. 2nd Floor. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Q1. Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam. Saigon Port Building. Thien Son Over four Saigon Riverbank Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime Just relocated to its new home in District Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments. Also a good site for expat jobseekers. Suite 701. domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner orientation. relocation services including home search. Tel: 0903 643446 chiscafe. Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap. Q4. Q1. Santa Fe offers local and international With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries. Classicos. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor. Q1. HCMC. Q2. Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset. Also does visa extensions. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. Tel: (08) 3742 5678 the-ascott. Specialists in international. Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the A global leader in international removals and relocations. Q4. You’ll get Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. District 1. Allied also provides tailored relocation services. elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings. Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem. Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon. 180 Pasteur. Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal. separate work and living areas. 9 Doan Van SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du. HCMC. Established in Vietnam in SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien. hr2b. marketing & events. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool. we can move your property to and from any location. Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks. Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. Supports professional services and aftersales. SYM Attilas and Excels. Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo. Tel: 0938 580800 thenesthousing. SERVICED APARTMENTS DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Thao Dien. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS 77a Hanoi Highway. Ree Tower. District 4. Tel: (08) 3521 0071 168 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan. 8A Phung Khac Khoan. Tel: 0903 013690 saigonscootercentre. Call or check the website for Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. An Phu. Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco. Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse. Also does saigonbikerentals. Binh Trung Tay. with five–star facilities and Owners of Snap Café in District 2. local. M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien. Rents by the day or by the month. Q1 saigontattoo. local and office moves and pet relocations. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong. Tel: (08) 6675 6956 exileinkvietnam. M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao.HCMC Essentials a variety of academic offerings. sales. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C. Ward 12. as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners. Tel: (08) 3822 6111 SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL. Q1. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.A. Pricing depends on size and style. a balcony. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke. Website is in English. IT. Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords. Tel: (08) 3822 8899. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong. sauna and steam room. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273 nga.3. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments. Call for details and prices. Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO. and office. Q2. com . as well as two on-site restaurants. Q1. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen. with 130 offices globally. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Expert in providing rental properties. Yamaha Nouvos. a gym. Q2. Thien Son Building. Q1. pet transportation. Q1. Q2.28 Ham Nghi. In SAIGON INK 26 Tran Hung Dao. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. French and Spanish. Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Luvias. Q1. Miss Ao Dai Building. Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 asiantigers-mobility. Q1. orientated towards expats. housing and school searches. Floor 9. RELOCATION AGENTS AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor. M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. vieclambank. en-suite Adecco is the world leader in human resources SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien. Phu Nhuan. Tel: (08) 3520 8888 With over 150 offices around the world. Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia. Q2. 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Quarter 3. LTD. Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. quality imported helmets and bike RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su. Thao Dien. Empire Tower. cultural training. Q2. Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan. Q3. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. 5 Nguyen Gia TATTOO SAIGON 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh. from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. 628C Hanoi Highway. Tel: (08) 6288 3888 LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh. engineering & technical. immigration services and records management. 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat. Q3. Enquiries via their website are Somerset Chancellor Court. Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.

CT Q5. Q2. They come with separate living and dining areas. Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon. Q1. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary. Level 10. Q2. POOL. as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature. Upholding international standards. digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities. Email chiara@laholista. Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor. 126 Hung Vuong. 12 Quoc Huong. a place to climb. Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan. Group classes include power yoga. Thao Dien. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. SPORTS GARMENTS animaldoctors. VETERINARY CLINICS ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien. Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms. Q12. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food. Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you. Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks. usually 4km and a run around 8km. smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European This sports centre in An Phu. Diamond Plaza. circuit BODY AND MIND 240 Ba Thang Hai. Tel: (08) 3519 3000. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. Lotte Mart. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself. Hung Vuong Plaza. who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. 91 Nguyen Huu NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai. VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van. Tel: 0916 670 771 SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3. 5B Ton Duc Thang. Q7. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers. a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. chains such as CGV. Level A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced wordvietnam. snacks and freeflow beer after the run. No membership fees. Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine. vietnameselanguagegarden. boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. Tel: (08) 3910 0168 Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies. Tel: (08) 3775 0555. Tel: (08) 6297 1981. com lottecinemavn. Q1. composition or a 6-hour survival crash course. features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients CGV CINEMAS Level Sunday 2pm sharp. 34 Le Duan. Binh Thanh. 60A Truong Son. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. body and mind. (08) 6260 3980 VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor.000 for expats. Has a number of climbing sections. 469 Nguyen Huu Tho. water. THE LANDMARK CLUB A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Nguyen Van Linh. Tel: (08) 5412 2222. facilities include a fully–equipped gym room. Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi. In addition to the squash court. Has a small but consistent membership. 176 thelandmarkvietnam. their family and friends. intermediate and advanced levels. SC VivoCity. martial arts and spinning. as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves. VND150. SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5. competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. SQUASH The Landmark. Caravelle hotel. Includes yoga. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness for info. Level Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Q7. Crescent Mall. Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du. Tel: (08) 2222 0388 SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash. Q2. Tan Binh.000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).vn Offers the very highest levels of compassionate. runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM Truc Duong. Bus out to the county with a Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort. the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite. Tel: (08) 3719 9588 score-tech. a steam room and | April 2016 Word | 169 . schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai. Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman. 88 Dong Khoi. Q2. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista. Pay for classes. Q2.Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung. Q1. Binh Thanh. Phu My Hung. Level 2. CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments. Thao Dien Mall. CINEBOX cinebox. started by fitness guru Cyril. Tel: 0966 920612 facebook.000 for locals and VND220. Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. pilates.

and now 14 years later. but we have fun. You can book the place for functions and the live music starts every night from around PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER “My place is like your front room or your back room. only a relaxed. Spanish-terraceinspired premises in District 1. just off the main drag of Hai Ba Trung and along Cao Ba Quat. comfortable vibe and a diverse range of regulars happy to get involved in actual conversation. or perhaps the delicious daquiri floridita (VND120. Stepping inside. Since her unexpected change in life course. getting into this industry wasn’t something Jane had planned when she first came to Vietnam. but basically it stands for relaxing good times. too. On the Thursday night we visited. and a regular band from the Philippines were filling the place. there’s a long story behind its origin. Besides drinks and live music they serve up Spanish and Cuban-inspired cuisine with a small menu of German fare (Jane’s husband in German). you feel instantly at home. It’s a lot of work. I just do my own thing. Any night of the week. That’s why we haven’t changed too much.000). “It was unexpected. but you’ll have to buy Jane a La Habana special (VND150.00) or the fruity but not overpowering sangria red (VND120. you’ll hear live music floating from its cavernous entertainment area. there’s not a hint of the pretention you’ll find at Saigon’s newest range of self-styled VIP entertainment venues. “I’ve known some of my customers for more than 10 years.” She has a great sense of humour about the whole thing. HCMC.30pm . it was ballad night. “My husband and I came on a two-year contract. 170 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. we’re still here.000) to get the whole story.” — Jon Aspin La Habana is at 6 Cao Ba Quat.” she tells me. we used to do salsa. “La Habana is a famous name that people know in this city. Everyone is welcome. In addition.BAR STOOL LA HABANA A 12-year veteran of the Saigon scene. laughing frequently with customers and describing the differences between her home city and where she is now as like “coming from Mars”. That’s because there’s a natural warmth to the La Habana front bar you can’t deny. Q1. it’s been a labour of love for Jane. As with many bars.” Not Part of the Plan Offering a full list of cocktails and a very well-equipped bar. especially at night. We do swing dancing. “There’s no need to dress up or pretend to be something you’re not. It’s just the way owner Jane Speeger likes it.” the Shanghai native says. La Habana maintains its charming. and something that has attracted people back time and time again.” she explains. | April 2016 Word | 171 .

Only small. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR 24 Hai Ba Trung. Q1. GAME ON SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi. 76A Le Lai. as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive. Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien. Also has a pool table. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach. Q2. Q1. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip. Q1.hungrypanda. 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh. Tel: (08) 3836 8452 172 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. imported beer. 55. PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www. Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon. Thao Dien.scoozipizza. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51.lotteria. dartboards and of A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. And when we say big. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele. Tel: (08) 3744 2588 biacraft. One of the top watering holes in the city. Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene. Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh If you’re in need of dense. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports. Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. and entertaining music events / DJ sets. Q1. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. but with wooden tables perfect for sharing. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon. Q1. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. Night live music and DJs. Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend. AB Tower. artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Q1.VN www. which are served up in the garden terrace out back. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www. Q1. NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue. we mean big. young Vietnamese and the occasional KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www. Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre. right? Well. Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors.chezguido. brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. tasty Western and Vietnamese food. Naturally.HCMC On The Town BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt. Bitexco Tower. O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung. and tasty Sunday night roasts. VN www. Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly . Q2. DELIVERY BEN STYLE LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu VIETNAMMM www. LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi. Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. elegant and spacious. Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing. Western managed. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon. 2 Lam Son. modern décor. For the spectacular views alone. Q1. Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour. pool and more. The original microbrewery. classic cocktails. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever. this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice. Tel: SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.tacobich. Check 59 Dong Du. it is. Also has a decent food menu. EXPAT BAR 44 Pasteur. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem. Japanese-Vietnamese fusion NUMBER FIVE LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat. Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. as well as performances from overseas bands and guest Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine. appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Has regular live music. pool and weekly poker tourneys. BROMA. this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs. Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash. out their daily food Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. wonderful local staff. Q1. vietnammm. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower. lots of large screens to watch the televised com. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR 90 Xuan Thuy. D2 SPORTS BAR LAST CALL LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu mayrestaurant. with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. AFTERHOURS LOUNGE EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR Level 52. pub food. attractive bar staff and German food menu. Sleek lines. authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts.dominos. darts are still key An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui TACO BICH www. Q1 The original expat bar. Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.kfcvietnam. Q2. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien. so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. With a free book exchange. Q1. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 EAT. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR 45-47 Bui Vien. Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. HUNGRYPANDA. darts. Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Q1. international bar and restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www. 2 Hai LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien. great cocktails and ice cold beer. both on tap and by the bottle. Tel: 0906 912730 www. this large. Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. Check their website for Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s.

contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass. this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. 70s and 80s tunes. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook. wineembassy. Tel: (08) 3824 7827 THE ORIENT 9th Floor. Has regular live music nights. London. Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. cold drinks and beautiful people. spacious. Booming house This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. Nguyen Luong Bang. 167 Hai Ba Trung. THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon. thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience. CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi. 24 Ngo Van Nam. Boasts concrete floors. great music and loads of laughs. stick around for entertaining events and markets. 1923 Lam Son | April 2016 Word | 173 . hostess style table service are the name game here. A good place to watch the live sports. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks. WINE BAR 38 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB New World Saigon Hotel. Q2. Q1. Phu My Hung. U2 and Guns n’ The ultimate in poolside entertainment. this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3. check out their zesty rolls. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep. Q3. a long bar. Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium. Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’. lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. all at reasonable prices. Q4. Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu. Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines. Q1 saigonsoul. menu. this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs. Q7. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu. with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. Q1. (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists. contemporary interior and an outdoor Designed as a Laneway-style restobar. and a lounge on the first floor. Q1. a pool table and live music. from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 VINYL BAR A sleek. And for a real treat. Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook. houses an upscale. Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon. vinylbarsaigon. Top shelf spirits and friendly. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May. where three talented Filipino bands (B& Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music facebook. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound A A sophisticated yet down-to-earth wordvietnam. Caravelle Saigon. 5B Ton Duc Thang. 61 Ton Thap Thiep. Q7. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. SAIGON SAIGON BAR THE OBSERVATORY 70 Pasteur. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city. 103A Pham Ngu Lao. Bui Bang Doan. Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi. The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar. Tel: (08) 3914 3999 facebook. Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. a full-blown meal or a mixture of Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities. Q7. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building. A popular local haunt. PEACHES CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom. Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke. large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. high table seating. With ambient lighting and town tempo music. Inspired by Bantay Srei. Phatty’s has become the goto. great food. brick-wall interior. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon. Does a great grill menu and of course. dark wooden furniture. Great pizzas. Q’vans.01 Riverside Residence An Named after the Danish artist Storm P. It serves a SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT C0. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong. 76 Le Lai. A great venue for a few beers and more. Phenomenal cocktails. showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South. MUSIC & SPORTS BAR BAR. the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Q1 facebook. Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon. grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks. From its roots as the famed Café Latin. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. SEVENTEEN SALOON RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2. THEMED MUSIC BAR THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue. yet hip Located in the heart of Phu My Hung. Q1. Q1 shrinebarsaigon. the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix. Tapas. quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. Q7. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual. Q1. New York or Central Melbourne. big screens. Q1. steaks. with BBQs available for parties and events. the kind of place found in Hong Kong. Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp. ART & DJ SPACE LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR caravellehotel. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook. Serves creative.

Visit klasik. the combination was divine. For the Purists While regular coffee is a blend from various sources. With its froth on the top. I’ll definitely be coming back. Klasik has a distinctive style and sense of creativity. HCMC.000) and smoked salmon baguette (VND110. they are clearly working hard to understand their customers’ needs.000. Klasik has designed dishes that not only can fit with the taste of coffee but are also good for your health. very smooth.000). But I always love something a little different — the Nitro Cold Brew was outstanding. this is much fresher. Accompanied by an option of four extra flavours including salted caramel. Then the mixture is filtered through a paper coffee filter or cloth to become cold-brew coffee. it should be used as either espresso or in a drip. the coarse-ground beans are soaked at room 174 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Not just a Café If the first floor is mainly for coffee. The sourness from the topping blended with the sweetness of the cheese. Adding the bitterness from a sip of coffee. “For the best taste. “But if you want to have wholesale deals with us. According to the owner Thiep.” said Thiep. Each singleorigin coffee has unique flavours formed by its regional water source. Coffee on Tap Like other coffee shops. Yet that’s where the similarity ends. You can buy one bag of single-origin coffee and try it at home or simply grab a cup starting from VND75. Understanding the nature of coffee.000 at the café and enjoy the moment to the soundtrack of gentle background music.COFFEE CUP KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS N estled on the street corner between Mac Thi Buoi and Phan Van Dat. you’re welcome. this complex drink is priced at VND50. lookswise it is similar to a dark. There were a couple of people in the café. the extract needs to be infused with nitrogen gas. Klasik offers a wide range of coffee from basic to house creative blends. But to make it look like dark beer with the foamy effect. Klasik is introducing single-origin coffee imported from Asia. from the streetfront Klasik Coffee Roasters looks simple and for more info and promotions . Made from cold coffee run out from taps that create a thick layer of foam. Oceania. Africa. so I indulged in a passion fruit cheesecake (VND40. I ordered duck and cucumber salad (VND135. if you find Vietnamese traditional filtered coffee heavy and thick. all giving a cozy and tranquil ambience. Going with the trend. German-style beer. After being roasted and ground. South and Central America to satisfy the more fastidious clients. spaghetti. butter rum and spicy cheesecake. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Klasik Coffee Roaster is located at 40 Mac Thi Buoi. I settled in a corner and started looking at the drinks list.” Thiep advised. the second floor is a shared room for coffee and food with the kitchen set up out back. Yet walk inside and the space is equipped with classic French-style chairs and tables in harmony with the contemporary décor. It could be from a single farm or a whole country. single-origin coffee is coffee that comes from one location. The food menu has a range of options including salad. Q1. A meal can’t be completed without a dessert. hazelnut. lighter and very. soil and weather.000) as I hadn’t had breakfast and my watch was already showing 1pm. noodles and PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN temperature in cold water for over 18 hours. a cup of Nitro Cold Brew takes a lot of time to prepare. mostly working. | April 2016 Word | 175 .

Not just a pretty bottle. At the turn of the century. The point in all this is. This does not mean that women appreciate or understand wine any less than men. They wanted to create a modern. It has a long. I. The fastest growing wine-drinking demographic here is females between the ages of 20 and 35. all the things that today’s young Vietnamese businesswomen aspire to. Occasionally there are also just lucky accidents. Not enough time is spent promoting the social aspect of drinking a bottle of wine with good friends. Made in Spain 176 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. AMAVI in Spain and Sakura in Japan. undergone a considerable change in recent years. rather than try and educate and lecture the public as to why the wine was good. to show off with wine knowledge and to taste. But wine styles and marketing are still very much skewed towards attracting male consumers. fresh expression of the variety that was food-friendly called Libalis. Traditionally the wine industry has created BY JIM CAWOOD open-minded and willing to try new products based on promotions or attractive labels than men are. talking and enjoying one another’s company. sweet wines as “chicks’ drinks” and that real wine is the domain of men. where wine style preference is not related to gender. worldliness and success. for one. A great wine for spicy Asian curries and Vietnamese salads. Where’s Your Head At? Libalis Muscat 2014 It is perhaps odd.AMAZING GRAPES WOMEN & WINE T he wine industry is a very male dominated world. hold good corporate or professional the idea that in order to enjoy wine you must be able to appreciate and collect it. They did — the wine was very good — but the packaging was tired and old-fashioned and the variety un-trendy. women still account for the majority of retail purchases. Maybe the industry is still stuck on the notion of light. While average individual female consumption is lower than for men. in a fun. Spanish producer Maetierra set about reviving native white grape varieties like Muscat à Petit Grains that had been all but wiped out by phyloxera. In fact. They are young. I suppose. then. but that they are more attuned to realise that it tastes much better when shared with others. happy-go-lucky sort of way. Lubu . All facets of production. know of plenty cases where the opposite is the case. 15 years ago it was rare to see Vietnamese women drinking in public. What’s more. are not yet married and — unlike their parents — have disposable income. more than half (56%) of wine drinkers in Western countries are women. Slightly off-dry with ripe peach. Vietnam is no exception. that conventional wine culture promotes consuming rare and expensive bottles. well-educated (often abroad). appreciation and sales have traditionally been the domain of men. fruity. Women have decided that in order to enjoy wine all you need is some good friends” Alcoholic volume: 11. catching up. full bodied finish. they decided to create a label that expressed how they would like to see the “Traditionally the wine industry has created the idea that in order to enjoy wine you must be able to appreciate and collect it. Drinking wine in Vietnam is still associated with sophistication. involving drinking ‘mot tram phan tram’ until you could no longer walk. wine enjoyed. This has. Then. The whole drinking culture was a very ‘males only’ event. Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is presently man-at-the-helm at District 2 restaurant. and the wine business is becoming much more balanced. mango and rambutan fruit flavours. that wine marketers have not latched onto this. Women have decided that in order to enjoy wine all you need is some good friends.5% alcohol it won’t knock you on the head. Libalis has won many awards around the world including at two special wine shows which are judged only by women. The wine struggled. But it is also true that women tend to be more This is dangerously drinkable and at 11. of course. The new packaging connected with female consumers and sales took off.5%. women drink wine more in social situations than men.

29 Ton That Thiep. Q1. The contemporary. drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma. Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook. creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee. Open daily from 7am to 10pm. nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious. and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. With a cup of well-brewed Nitro cold brew coffee. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. 36 Le Loi. Comfortable couch seating. Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace. and a fashion store and art gallery out back. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink. Second location on Le Loi. Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor. 14 Ton That Dam. 70B Le Loi. INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh. Q1. the taste. the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw. or quality conversations held over a drink or two. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong. Great prices and food with daily specials. Tel: (08) 6674 9565. Thanh Market. Q1. A simple. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 2495 Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. Q1. sofa seating renders a great spot to At M2C (Modern Meets Culture). 151 Dong Khoi. Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex. Tel: 01699 990003 sam. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Q1. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu. Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks. speciality coffee such as cold drip. Q2 Tel. HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien. Q1. Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies. Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong. An institution. Q1. An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy. accompanied by some background jazz. open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor. excellent service and even better fish. Q1 quirky environment. Metropolitan Building. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan. Tel: 0909 670272 facebook. tea and more Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. smoothies. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. Q2. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc. 14 Ton That Dam. Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original. here you’ll be in KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS DECIBEL immense local culture. America and the Middle East. shows THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor.D. film screenings. and art Besides the spectacular views. Q3. Regular DJ nights. Tel: 0935 293400 facebook. Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel. Q1. Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. A pleasant. whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. single origin coffee and healthy food. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. Q1. 14 Ton That Dam. all in a contemporary. Q1. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop. it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. 76A Le Lai. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor | April 2016 Word | 177 . yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. Da Kao. contemporary environment adds to the theme. the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. it is an afternoon Trendy without pretense. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels. 14 Ton That Dam. CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING 40 Mac Thi Buoi. Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. i. Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien. 235 Dong Khoi.HCMC On The Town range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. I. EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor. Tel: (08) 6685 4160 klasik. Q1. everything gets a touch of modernity. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. siphon. this two-floor. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time. with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Centrally located near Ben MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor. lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. homemade desserts. Q1. done with a modern flare. M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh. Offers up tasty breakfasts. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor. Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in facebook.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien. juices. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own A small but swanky cafe. seafood and meats. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor.nguyen197@gmail. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Europe. the ample soft. relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung. AB Tower. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans. Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos. Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe. on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat.

while supporting a wide range of other uses.000 drawn by the fact that the uses in the “ghetto” are mixed and those mixtures are largely compatible. restaurants. Now that ratio has changed to 60:40 reflecting the interest in the area. It would not be seen as desirable in other cities — perhaps seen as a generator of crime — but in fact it is quite safe with a distinct charm. The original mix of residential to commercial was 80% residential to 20% commercial. The map is based on the work of Italian architect and surveyor Giambattista Nolli who mapped Rome in 1736. massage places and BY ED HAYSOM PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER extraordinary density of the buildings. the buildings here ignore all of that. In that precinct is one of the most unusual residential areas I have ever come across. Thi Sach street runs from the Children’s Hospital (formerly barracks for the French soldiers) down to the port — to allow fast mobilisation for the French forces housed there. There is always plenty of life in the alleyways and the small scale of the uses — largely brought about due to the tight spaces — means that the uses are in proportion to the area (it would be impossible to have a large bar in there). What replaced some of it proved to be incredibly interesting and its development is relatively recent. Tiny homes easily sell for over US$250. That people enjoy the close proximity. attracting the expat who enjoys (and tolerates) the close urban spaces. It is known as the ‘Japanese Ghetto’ as many Japanese and Korean expats have made their home there. so values are high. In the American war the US personnel replaced the French but the game was the same. In trying to make sense of the city I decided that on Sundays I would take an area. walk it and document it to give me some understanding of what made it work. so the area bounded by Le Thanh Ton. In many ways — flawed as it is — it is a model for the future of the city. such as bars. retains vestiges of the bar trade it once was famous for. Whereas western urban design and planning methodology promotes separation of buildings for fire health and amenity reasons. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects. but rather that homogenous communities sharing common values have been proven to be successful. I didn’t realise that it had a racy past with girly bars featuring in run-down tenements. The building programme that settles many people in high-rise towers is understandable. At the time I was working in Dong Du. It shouldn’t work at all — due to the 178 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. is an indication of how a city like Ho Chi Minh City may evolve and develop a distinct character that represents Vietnam rather than another western city. particularly at street level. restaurants. indicating built form and open space. The accompanying map. In Close Proximity So why does it work? Probably for a number of reasons. A great city should be generous in its offerings to all types of people. Ton Duc Thang and Hai Ba Trung seemed like a good place to start as it was close and has a good character about it. Thai Van Lung runs parallel to it and while still supporting some hotels. the sense of community that the ghetto gives. supported by stores. That in turn supports the small bars and boutique restaurants.KNOW YOUR CITY THE EXPAT GHETTO W hen I first arrived in Ho Chi Minh City I didn’t fully appreciate the layers and complexity of the city. which in turn encourages more like-minded expats. bars and spas catering to their needs. It is right inside District 1. gives an idea of the density. young and old. rich and poor. If I had thought about it a little more that would have made sense as the area was once home to French naval personnel. After the war the area between Thai Van Lung and Le Thanh Ton was deeded to the Navy and most of the bars and houses were cleared out. the absence of motor vehicles. I am not trying to make a correlation between income and crime. The street now contains a number of elegant hotels. however urban design is also about building communities and right inside District 1 is an excellent example of how this can be achieved and be . Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace Creatively named burgers. This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road. 74/3 Hai Ba Trung. Unit CR1-12. serving authentic. pastas. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. 2 Hai Trieu. Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 74 Hai Ba Trung. mustard leaf prawn rolls. Tel: (08) 3823 1372. Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup. baked potatoes. Best experienced in a group. friendly service to match. Phu My Hung. ELBOW ROOM HOA TUC AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 52 Pasteur. burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains. Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon. Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho. lamb. homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. passadors bring the meat skewers to your table. Vietnamese fare and A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork. blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. An Phu Superior New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti. 107 Ton Dat Tien. Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers. Al Fresco’s offers international. and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung. all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the This CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du. airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger. Try their pad thai — to die for. Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy. Q7. Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen. Q1. Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe. all set in a contemporary. homemade spicy sausage. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh. the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. Q1. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui BAHDJA 2nd Floor. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad.000. BLACK CAT AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat. Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare. orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. Q1. Q3. and pizzas. The The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers. Slick service. the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. steamed ravioli and beef stew. spiced up cocktails. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. Has a delivery outlet in District 2. Thao Dien. spacious environment. Q1.HCMC On The Town AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five. GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 38238424 Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel. com Long-running. buildyour-own breakfasts. 27 Le Quy Don. Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51. Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient. hot pots and curries. Q1. Tel: (08) 3820 7157 CR2 Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches. ASHOKA lar park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon. contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung. sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice. Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. wordvietnam. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien. multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. aulacdobrazil. Probably serves up the best steak in town. Q1. the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Q2. 33 Tong Huu Although a hotel restaurant. mains and more. cooked fresh to order. Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant. from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien. creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare. salads and mezzes. Q1. Has a popular motorbike rental service. a good wine menu. chicken. The Crescent. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN Level 51. skewers. Q7. All complemented by fresh. and you. Q1. pizzas. AU LAC DO BRAZIL BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard. Dishes include noodle soup. this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Q2. tasty Vietnamese-styled Phu My Hung. Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom. stir fries. plus coffees and juices — served at a popu- boomarang. onions and a lime leaf marinade. Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Q1. kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Q1. Tel: (08) 5413 6592 Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. Tel: (08) 3827 2090. AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton. Very friendly | April 2016 Word | 179 . Decent-sized steaks start at VND390. toasties. Excellent. Q2. Bitexco Tower. Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town.

VND250. Bypassing the set lunch — we were both on a health trip — we ordered soup and salad. while my friend ordered the cauliflower soup and the salade de printemps. the velvet-covered couches. we try out a new restaurant. thanks to their reasonably priced set lunch (VND180. From Cartoon to Cuisine The restaurant is named after the comic character created by cartoonist Hugo Pratt in 1967.000 for two courses. Le Corto was a name that nobody had. As the friend said: “I always liked the upstairs room in El Gaucho”. And that’s why black is a big part of the décor. It was a Tuesday and we were lucky to get a table.” Le Thu. the first two times with the owners. 180 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. the character from Tom Brown’s Schooldays so wonderfully revived by Scottish novelist George MacDonald Fraser. He’s a character who fits very well with what we want to do. As we waited for the food to arrive. in his series of adventure novels in the 1960s and 1970s. With Le Corto he was suitably impressed. Every time I meet this Located on the site that was formerly occupied by the first El Gaucho in Vietnam. adds: “That’s why we used the black cat in our logo. He’s elegant and cosmopolitan but not fashionable. He smokes. “He’s an adventurer.000 for three).TOP EATS LE CORTO I ’ve eaten at Le Corto three times. French-influenced décor that makes it a pleasant place to dine. but is passionate and has friends everywhere. I started raving about my last visit. it retains echoes of the past. the wooden or marble-topped tables and the ambience of both classic yet contemporary. Corto Maltese is the French version of Flashman. a corporate expat who has lived in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. What the new owners have done with it has made the space at least as appealing as before. Cats are his favourite animal.. one of the other faces behind the new venture. He loves cats. even their lunchtimes are busy at the moment. one of the team behind Le Corto. and it was a name that had a sound. What I was told before turned out to be correct. “He likes women but is not a womaniser. I settled for French onion soup (not so healthy) and the salade Lyonnaise. On the third occasion I went unannounced with a friend.” explains JeanMarcel Guillon.” . There’s something about the charcoal-grey walls and black ceiling. as well — mainly small cigarettes that he rolls himself..

or you can go light. Q1. The wine menu. is equally well | April 2016 Word | 181 . the result was a sweet-and-sour style dessert made even more moreish thanks to the chocolate sugar on the side. the iced nougat with a red fruit sauce (VND195. but on our lunchtime visit we were able to go the opposite route by opting for soup and salad. our meal started — naturally — with the au torchon foie gras (VND320. Peter Cincotti. So some mains go for as little as VND220. This was followed by the ris de veau (VND490. seafood. you can eat fish.000) was equally good — a wonderful end to an indulgent meal. Le Corto does this with aplomb.000. Topend French fare is all about indulgence. You can eat heavy cuisine. Crunchy and yet soft all in one mouthful. You can find them online at facebook. Mixed together and drunk with a glass of French red. HCMC. Ronny Jordan and Eliane Elias. beetroot jelly and vegetables julienne. the veal was crispy on the outside. while others such as the Black Angus Rossini reach VND880. roasted black garlic. smoky. the dish was divine. it’s a refreshing change. The dessert. From my experience. vegetarian or meat. the foie gras was wonderfully smooth — musty. mixing old world and new.000). a perfect match for the crunch of the toast and the vegetables. the ability to have a menu adapted to the taste and desires of different customers is vital for keeping diners happy. with wine by the bottle starting at VND600. Served with brown bread toast. In a town where prices can sometimes get extortionate. Eaten with the sweet black garlic. loungy tunes from the likes of Aretha Franklin. To me this suggests not only flexibility but also a desire to provide something for everyone. the complexion changed.000. — Nick Ross Le Corto is at 5D Nguyen Sieu. Tel: (08) 3822 0671.000.000) or veal sweetbreads served up with morel mushrooms and crushed potatoes. Striking a Balance One thing that struck me about the menu — put together by award-winning French chef and co-owner Sakal Phoeung — was the pricing. melt in your mouth. Here it’s based on the cost of the wordvietnam.PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY Time to Indulge To a backdrop of jazzy. Served up with a creamy sauce bursting with truffle. soft and succulent on the inside. the combination of sweet and smoky exploding on the palate. But most important is the variety.

Open late. Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine. Reasonably priced. MEKONG MERCHANT PENDOLASCO INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD PAN-ITALIAN 23 Thao Dien. the beautiful rustic décor is matched by Ground Floor. and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare. Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower. pendolasco. Q1. this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. SD04. Lo H29-2. an attractive outdoor terrace area. Q1. then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list. grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Q1. An Phu. 31 Thai Van Lung. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. info@mekongmerchant. all with a European influence. open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton. and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps. Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Does a great grill menu and of course. the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi. this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table. with Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe. Either way. Tel: (08) 3519 4009 facebook. Q1. relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda. Q1. CONTEMPORARY FRENCH KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel. Q1. Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites.01 Riverside Residence C. aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly. plating up the likes of nasi lemak. Q1. comfortable seating. risotto. Opening out into a large. gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan. Tel: (08) 6274 1520 facebook. Q2. pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees. authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery. this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine. Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau. Q2. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT LION CITY CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE SINGAPOREAN 3rd Floor Rooftop. 39 Le Duan. Caravelle Hotel. mee rebus. Q1. the This intimate. Attractively decorated in warm Friendly. Excellent service. Tel: (08) 3823 8371 FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza. backed up with an extensive wine Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha. Tel: (08) 3823 1101. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. but the bun bo Hue. May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. and everything you eat here is quality. 182 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe. com hen. Q1. INTERNATIONAL BUFFET MEDITERRANEAN L’OLIVIER a darkwood. this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. bun thit nuong. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung. salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere. Kumho Link. Has petanque on the terrace. lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY marriott. Tel: (08) 3821 PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT C0. LOVEAT 29 Hai Trieu. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung. 36 Tong Huu Dinh. and a good kids menu. this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE. The robust. 39 Le Duan. Check out their set lunches and happy hour. Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh. Although the selection is small. com Casual yet stylish.HCMC HOANG YEN KOH THAI LE JARDIN PAN-VIETNAMESE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION CLASSIC FRENCH Level 1. Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles. On The Town HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor. as well as specialities like frog porridge. Q1. The Mediterranean and The Orient. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine. Excellent outdoor terrace. Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. RESTAURANT 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di. BAR. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 6260 2727 loveat. 5D Nguyen Sieu. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong. KP My Phat. Crn. . Q1. Nguyen Luong Bang. an extensive wine and cocktail list. A great place to take out-of-town guests. Now with a number of restaurants around town. Not only is it well-priced. Phu My Hung. Has a small but well thought out menu. Q1. Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa. leafy terracotta-tiled garden area. Q1. this contemporary. cheap house wine is served by the carafe. excellent pizza and grilled dishes. yellows and oranges.000. Q2. gnocchi. pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. If you want to take friends. MARKET 39 NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor. chilli crab and fish head curry. 103 Ton Dat Tien. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square. 116 Suong Nguyet Anh. Kumho Link. Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange. Check out their pepper steaks. banh bot loc and other such dishes are Open for lunch and set dinner. Q1. Q1. and awesome chicken curry. to boot! 45 Le Anh Xuan. the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. LE CORTO This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed Although a chain restaurant. LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien. then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.restaurant19@gmail. Tel: (08) 6253 282 The rustic looking. Dishes range from VND80. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city. tropical garden. Bitexco Financial Tower. 19 Lam Son Square. 2 Hai Trieu. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. The Crescent. Has a second branch in District 2. cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant. Subtle lighting. pickles. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung. Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome. and beautifully crafted comfort food from One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. 48 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3822 0671 facebook. InterContinental Asiana Saigon. classic setting. this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. 17 Le Duan. Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef. with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon Located in the heart of Phu My Hung. fresh ingredients. Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Nam Giao is the place. and excellent. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may. just minutes from the backpacker area. this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. with healthy juices and smoothies. aircon interior. Tel: (08) 38 250261. Q1. Bakery-style Bistro out front. Q1. Q7. Q7. fishes and seafoods are all fresh.000 to VND900. Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup. Set over a pool in a leafy. The atmosphere may be a bit Offers authentic. 7 Ngo Duc Ke. A great place for dinner. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. as well as more traditional varieties. this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. Q1. bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced. Tel: (08) 3744 6478 87 Nguyen Hue.

Centec Tower. quan nhau-style setting. osso buco and lamb chop skewers. 88 Dong Khoi. which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with sanfulou. 273 Phan Xich Long. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. Asian and Vietnamese buffets. INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1.POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES 14M Quoc Huong. An excellent place for group dining. no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York. Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace. STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi. with excellent food. here it’s all about the loaded fries. Q1. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. SEOUL HOUSE SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. Q1. Q1. RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi. Features western. 51 Hai Ba Trung. mousaka. look no further. Q1. Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. with every type of option under the The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet. Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim. indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous. meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap. international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki. at this popular. Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York. A place to see and be It’s a no-brainer. And if you like your dim sum. chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional If you like your buffet selections to be big. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant. 17A Ngo Van A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. high-quality. 76 Le Lai. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers. The longest running Korean restaurant in town. Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery. Tel (08) 6291 8187 relishandsons. Q3. Tel (08) 6253 7711 theracharoom. SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN QUAN BUI 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen. Q1. and born from a passion for sharing. Q1 SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung. Hong Kong and Dubai. Singapore. SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24. Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace. REFINERY TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square. the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon. 74 Hai Ba Trung. with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room. Q1. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. then here it is gargantuan. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room. Q1. this astonishing. comfortable space. Of course it is. Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch. Q1. Q1. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ Open until RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du. KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Set over two One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese. AB One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals. Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul. 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q2. Phu Nhuan. Tel (08) 3826 8691 stokerwoodfiredgrill. Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon. 76A Le Tel: 0938 687689 Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Renaissance Riverside. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality. AB Tower. A well-thought out and romantic venue. Tel: 0938 754251. a range of dips. wordvietnam. contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with | April 2016 Word | 183 .com Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. Tel: (08) 3823 9513 grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers. 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen. this popular. Good for events. Q1. this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook. 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion. unpretentious Greekinfluenced. Q1. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. Tel: (08) 3602 2241.

just after the entrance to Thao Dien Sports Centre. and with some justification. a fully organic market to buy produce from. you’ll soon be transported into a tranquil. its southern metropolis can fairly be said to lack sufficient areas to create what foreigners might consider ‘optimal’ living conditions. one of the things you’ve probably complained about.30pm every day.000). so my advice is to pop by first and check out the options. If the locally grown produce is more your thing. A Revelation Walking in for the first time is a revelation.000) and there is a range of other options. and apparently well known amongst District 2’s French expats. You should feel the stress of the street lift right off you. While the country is known as a tropical jungle. The pace here is intentionally much slower. other-worldly garden space. The modest signage has always been there though.familyfood . but it’s not without remedy. right before you sit down to enjoy one of a range of locally grown fruit juices (VND30. From Monday to Friday the lunch special is egg omelette with boiled vegetables (VND50. bamboo and all things good from the earth. It’s hardly a new debate. but most people don’t know about it. Hiding in Plain Sight Family Garden has been around for almost two years. beds to lie down on and even bunny rabbits.000 per month. and if you make that left. you won’t be disappointed. Almost hiding in plain sight. fruit and veg (VND40. When I asked about the chicken on our visit I was told to wait an PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY Already popular with families. Q2. so don’t expect a full Western menu and waiters eager to fill your drinks.TOP EATS FAMILY GARDEN I f you live in Saigon and are the complaining type.000 per kilo) are available till sold out. com/familygarden. There’s a creek. as you admire what has been created here. which you can do for VND650. to offer a peaceful sanctuary for escape. it’s all very Beatrix Potter. the purpose of the space is three-fold. but best to let the kitchen know in advance.000 per kilo) and leafy greens (VND50. That’s Family Garden. 184 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. and to give people the opportunity to grow their own vegetables on a rented plot of land. HCMC and is open from 8. It’s a reasonable criticism. peacefully going about their day among the vegetable plots. it’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it situation. if you drive down Thao Dien with even a modicum of urgency. “How long has this been here?” you’ll be asking yourself. under one of many shaded canopies. is the lack of green space in this city.30am to 8. Bookings can be made on 0913 662887 or you can check them out at facebook. and the vibe is very local. At the front is a family-friendly playground and a reasonable space for your next company picnic. an oasis of silence. though this is not Snap Café. — Jon Aspin Family Garden is at 28 Thao Dien.

com | April 2016 Word | 185 .wordvietnam.

uses the word solidarity in discussions around gratitude.3 billion people on our planet live in extreme poverty (less than US$1. we will remain tourists scratching our heads muttering.” Only you know what’s best for you.25 a day) says the World Bank. more than 1.. ask them “I ’m not judgmental. Soap is not the immediate concern. The formidable Barbara Ehrenreich . Or perhaps they needed a new opera house. economic existentialism — who has time for that! But humanitarian aid and social development are not commodities. until you and I have lived among the people we profess to serve or have spent many years working alongside them. isn’t there? What is the response to those volunteers who feel comfortable going overseas to do work they are not qualified to do at home and thus are responsible for eliminating a real local from real employment? More importantly.” She works handing out soap and toothbrushes as part of a community health project and the “it” is using said items for the improved hygiene results the NGO was counting on.” I’m all for zeal and drive and infectious enthusiasm (most days). We’re all in this together. there sneaks in a troubling rhetoric of ‘telling people what to do’. Somewhere in our commitment to development and ending poverty. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO. especially when we’re ‘helping’ them. no stranger to poverty. I love these (sort of) The Immediate Concern Self-Determination The Cambodians had their reasons and you can bet that had the NGO actually chatted with the locals about soap and toothbrushes it may have learned instead that the community needed microenterprise and livelihood generation. “But I just don’t understand why they don’t seem to get it. “I’m not a racist. but there is a chorus of righteousness that seems to couple itself with “and you should…” or “it’s better if you….” said the woman working for an NGO in Cambodia. That doesn’t sound like we’re upholding the universality of self-esteem and self-reliance. said we cannot seem “to have dispensed with generosity in order to practise charity”. our shared humanity. So right out of the door flies that whole pesky ‘do no harm’ principle where we’re trying to utilize minimum standards in aid and humanitarian responses like ‘we shall respect culture and custom’.. In the development sector.” or “I’m not a sexist. There’s a razor-thin line between charity and gratitude. The point is they weren’t asked. “But why are they doing that?” 186 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.A WORLD OF GOOD WRITING CHEQUES BEFORE CHECKING IN BY DANA MCNAIRN Rather than telling people what they need.” This is a clear signal that when you hear this type of expression the very next thing out of that person’s mouth will verify they are indeed judgmental. author of the influential Nickel and Dimed: On (Not) Getting By in America. racist or sexist. While the selfies continue to pop in impoverished communities (look at me holding raggedy children!). The locals had their own ideas and were instead selling said hygiene improvements. but this is too often a decision we take away from others. what might be the response to the sending agencies that place inexperienced do-gooders in these situations? Those sending agencies are carving up a US$2 billion a year industry in ‘voluntourism’ and hey. Albert Camus. Why not engage with something more like… solidarity economics? Let’s really reduce — and eliminate — future vulnerabilities. but…. but. I prefer that too and we cannot lose sight of it. an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth .

com Located on the main drag in Thao Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar. Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI PHO BO 195 Co Giang. garlic or MSG. crn. Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building. Q1. and healthy. New York or Central Melbourne. the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Q1. Q1 BO KHO NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE BA NAM PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA BEEFSTEAK NAM SON 260C Pasteur. too. Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow. Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 8971. Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon. a full-blown meal or a mixture of both. Cheap. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub. Q1. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. and the staff are often surprisingly lazy. Q3 CHI THONG PHO PHU VUONG 11A Cao Thang. Q3 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh. fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen. Tan Binh COM GA XOI MO SU SU SUSHI KO BANH KHOT 102 Cao Q3 BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON BUN CHA PHO BO 26/1A Le Thanh Ton. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh. 5B Ton Duc Thang. all cooked up without onions. Q2 38 Dinh Tien Hoang. complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 7751 VIETNAMESE BANH MI YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled Think bacon. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Q1 339 Le Van Sy. Q1. Tel: (08) 3930 3917 PHO LE BUN CHA HA NOI PHO PHU GIA Namsonsteak. Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience. Q3. steaks. 226 De Tham. Q3 THE DECK 170 Vo Van | April 2016 Word | 187 .com PHO BO 413-415 Nguyen Trai. Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll. Hueinfluenced cuisine. Q1. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types.HCMC On The Town TAMAGO TIN NGHIA PAN-JAPANESE VEGAN 39 Tong Huu Dinh. Q2. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. Q1. A popular hangout. Q1 MI QUANG BANH MI SAU MINH DAILY CHANGING DISHES 40A Quoc Huong. Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook. the kind of place found in Hong Kong. Q1 HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE 67 Le Thi Hong Gam. Phu Nhuan MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon. and you get The Hungry Pig. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook. Q3 VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. as diners look on. Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM 84 Dang Van Ngu. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep. all set in airy. 189 Bis Bui Vien. Q1. a terrace and private rooms. The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO 288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. 9 Tran Hung Dao. Q2. Tel: (08) 3914 3999 The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown. Serves creative. Q1 146E Ly Chinh Thang. an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle. Q5 70 Vo Van Tan. Tel: (08) 3822 2166. Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail. 164 Cong Quynh. InterContinental Asiana Saigon. yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city. BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI 107 Truong Dinh. Q3. Q1 MI QUANG MY SON TIEM COM GA HAI NAM ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI 26 Le Thi Rieng. Q3 BANH TAM 271 Nguyen Trai. Q1 COM TAM BANH MI HUYNH HOA 23 Hoang Sa. Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. that no-one seems to mind.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan. wordvietnam. grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks. Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space. Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue. 111 Nguyen Hue. spacious atmosphere. bacon and more bacon. Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong. Tamago has indoor and out door seating. Q4 COM TAM 40A THE LUNCH LADY VIETNAMESE BANH MI 62 Nguyen Van Trang. this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere. Q1. Stylish and spectacular. London. Q3 BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN STREET SUSHI 55 Tu Xuong. Phenomenal cocktails. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

com TAM Than h DISTRICT 10 h Ma H uyn GUITARS Nguyen Thien Thuat D1. C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4. 5 E1 Huynh Thuc Khang C4 Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2. D5 Le Quy Don B3 Le Thanh Ton B4. E4 A3 B5 B5. B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3. D5 A3. B3. C3 D1. D2. B4 Do Quang Dau D3 Do Thanh C1 Doan Nhu Hai D5 Doan Van Bo D5 Dong Du C5 Dong Khoi B4. E3 Hoang Sa A4. D2 Chu Manh Trinh B4. B4 C2. D4 B3. B3. D4 Ky Dong B2 Le Cong Kieu C4 Le Duan B4. B4. C4 Le Thi Hong Gam C4. C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5.5km ng SEAFOOD Vinh Khanh D4. C2. C4 Mac Dinh Chi B4 Mac Thi Buoi C5 Mai Thi Luu A4 Me Linh A5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2. A2 Khanh Hoi D4. B3 A2. C4. D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3. B2 B1 B2. B1 A3 A2 B1. D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4. C3 B3 A4. B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3. D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1. C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4. D3 Dien Bien Phu A4. C3 Quoc Ba H han To SAFES Vo Van Tan C3 NA M Ky D B Tran Tran Tran Van Dang PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2. D2 CAR COMPONENTS Tran Quang Khai A3 Ky Con C4. D2 Ng u yen Tron FLOWERS Le Thanh Ton C4 Minh Quye n uyen Binh FABRICS Hai Ba Trung A3 KH OI NG HI Dinh Tran EVERYTHING Ben Thanh Market C4 nh Van Tran Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club NG SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1. C5 C4 C2. C5 Ho Xuan Huong C2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu D4. C1. C2 Luu Van Lang C4 KY ong MA N G TH PHO COOKING INGREDIENTS Ham Nghi C4. E1. E3 Bui Thi Xuan C3 Bui Vien D3 Cach Mang Thang Tam B1. C3. C5 C4. D3 D3. D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4. C3 D4. B5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3 Le Loi C4 Le Quoc Hung D4. B3. C1 D1 A3 D1 A2. C2. D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2 inh 1 PHU NHUAN A yen Ngu Tran Huy Lieu HCMC Map Airport 3km h Chin Dinh O UNG DA TRAN H . E3 Ben Van Don D4. B5 Co Bac D3 Co Giang D3. D5. C3. B5. C3. 3 A2 Huynh Van Banh A1. D5. C3. C5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi C4 Han Thuyen B4 Ho Hao Hon D3 Ho Tung Mau C4. C4 Ngo Duc Ke C5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2. E4. C2 Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4. C3 Ban Co C1 Ben Chuong Duong D3. D4. C2 Dinh Cong Trang A3 Dinh Tien Hoang A4. D4 Le Thi Rieng C3 Le Van Sy A1 Luong Huu Khanh C2 Luu Van Lang C4 Ly Chinh Thang B2 Ly Thai To D1 Ly Tu Trong B4. B3. B3. D4 Cong Quynh D3 De Tham C3. B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4. C5 C4 D5. D4 PHU ROI PH U MOTORBIKES Ly Tu Trong C3 YEN VAN T INH Le V an S y N BIKE MAINTENANCE Nguyen Du C3 Huy uynh nh Van Banh B IE N LUGGAGE Le Lai C3. C2 C2 A5 E5 C4. B2. E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2. D4 Ng D en Tran Huy Lieu Phan Dinh Phung Phan Ke Binh Phan Van Han Pho Duc Chinh Phung Khac Khoan Suong Nguyet Anh Tan Vinh Thach Thi Thanh Thai Van Lung Thi Sach Thu Khoa Huan Ton Dan Ton Duc Thang Ton That Dam Ton That Thiep Ton That Tung Tran Binh Trong Tran Canh Chan Tran Cao Van Tran Dinh Xu Tran Hung Dao Tran Huy Lieu Tran Khac Chan Tran Khanh Du Tran Minh Quyen Tran Nhan Tong Tran Nhat Duat Tran Phu Tran Quang Khai Tran Quoc Thao Tran Quoc Toan Tran Van Dang Truong Dinh Truong Quyen Truong Sa Tu Xuong Vinh Hoi Vinh Khanh Vo Thi Sau Vo Van Tan Vuon Chuoi Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Xom Chieu Yersin Tran N 3 Thang 2 C1 Alexandre de Rhodes B4 An Duong Vuong D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2. C5 H uy Saigon Train Station Minh Quye n Tan Binh 0. B3 B3. E2 A1. A3. B4. B2. B5. C2. C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5. D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2. C5. E5 D4. E5 B5. C2. E1. A5 B2 E3. E2. C5 Hai Ba Trung A2. B5. B5 h Do ANTIQUES Le Cong Kieu C4 in Ch T en uy Ng A2 A4 A5 C4. D5 NG Thao Truo ng ONG LE H COMPUTERS Ton That Tung C2. A5 Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Man Dat Dist. B3. E2 D2 B4 D2. E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4. A3 B1. C4. B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3. B3. E4 Ky Con C4. C3 Calmette C4 Calmette D4 Cao Ba Nha D3 Cao Thang C1.BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1 PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3 CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4 CAC H ung Hoa H A NG C 3 District 11 2km Ban h A Min 2 NG THA Ba n hQ uy en Ng DIE LY THA I G HT HAN Vuon Chuoi Market Tha n g Co hie hC uy e nT hie n Ng Thu at uy e u in nD Ha on nS ye u Ng EN UY NG TO AI KH H N I I M Chanh TH am Viet Ph U PH AN R T Teacher Training University U AN D G VUON yen n Trai Binh Bieu Tran DISTRICT 5 Ng u y e Ngu WEDDING SERVICES Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1 ONG CU VAN G HUN University of Natural Sciences NG VUO YEN STATIONERY Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3 Tron g E Ch uo i N GU SPORTSWEAR Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Binh Tay Market 3km AU HI S T O g D LY CHI N V Ca o Tra n Quan Tho ng Vu on t n Da 188 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. C4 N GU 2 PHA ND ien gH on hu ARMY SURPLUS Dan Sinh Market D4 uy anh Th JAPANESE RESTAURANTS Le Thanh Ton B4.

5km .Toan Tran Quoc P ha m ho oT Ng hie iN H NA M Tru ong m gu y gu MANN G TH nD ye Ch inh A NG Huy en Tra n Du Ng Kh oa Hua ong u Tr Ly T inh h han Le T n uy Lu hang uc K h Th Le Cong Kieu inh HAM NGHI en Nguy Don Tru Cong Huynh Man Dat NNEL THU THIEM TU Don Van uoc H un g VinaExpress .com | April 2016 Word | 189 Ch ieu AU HI S T O m hie Tu Qu yen Ng Va TIE eB XO Xo m V DIN H P ha nK NG UY EN Han ANG st eur AU HI S T O Ma iT H o an g Sa UC TH Tru ong uc Le Van Tam Park U PH IEN B Phu N ng DIE uo c nQ Tra Pa uy Tu INH E TPhan Van TON D V Toa n Cua hanh nH GH TN E I V TON DUC T HANG c Chan a Tran Kh Ca u uu on hC Di n Thi T uy e g on G ng ra gT Ng u Ph RUN Ph Truonng Sa Hoang Sa c go AT an Phan Va Vann Ha Han N en M Ly V Thac h 5 BINH THANH N U PH uy inh n Va en uy Ng Hi AI a B DIE N BIE Ng hT Tran Quang Khai Nguyen Phi Khanh Tran Quang Khai Tan Dinh Market NG HA HT N CHI LY Huyn Duat uy en Ng uy en H Ng Tran Nhat an 3 DINH TIEN HOANG Ng uy en V Du Tran Khannhh 4 Gia Dinh Hospital 1.The Hydrofoil Service N Doan i hu Ha g Hoan Dieu Vung Tau H HA N Van ieu Doa nV an B u D ie u D ie inh B en Tr Hai u oi T TAT Le Q V Tan ong oD Kh e cK YEN g uon oi hH an C Du ng Hoa i hoa B en ng huo Ng To ong Tru ng D huo Kh t ha ghiep uan N Do ng HU E B en ng Hoa nK uy e P ua Ho H y en Ng u C B en i N GU Dan Sinh Market ru g T Ky C on Con g Ng Ch UY EN o Bu r teu Pa s en guy iB Tha Huyn NG iep Th i Th Du am a I LO LE t ha c Ma n Na m nh ha hK Nh T Ton ang nL Va Vinh Cha n An ng Do tD Co g ac h Opera House on hT Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km Ton Duc Thang Museum u Sie en uy Thi g N S Tha N n G ia an Th TR UN G HU H Vin Ba st eur HIA Ca o oi Ngo V a Tha iV an Lu ng h Tra i Kh BA EN UY AN UC on hT L in Ch Bac n ha eT NG TH AN G te ian HA I UC Tri nh Du et lm Ca G Co Xu en guy n n u am si Yer Ho gG Hon uM anh TO ND ng ro uT yL T Tru c Ben Thanh Market N hu Ha o en am Th De Ho en DISTRICT 1 en Tru ng Ton C HO gu ye nK ha cN Trinh en Cu Nguy L hi eT AI TH u Da ng O DA NG HU Co uy Do ng Saigon Bus Station ien Bui V AN TRN Ng i EN UY Ph a Qu Ng u yen ng D Th u PHAM HONG THAI o gu La am N uy Du Central Post Office Le 23/9 Park ang Dinh Duc Ba N UA Cathedral ED rai en T i Thai Binh Market Con gQ uyn h ho Co ng NG Le La AN DU Zoo & Botanical Gardens UY EN BIN HK HIE M uc nh eR s de Pa Le La y Ng u LE Re-unification Palace Le Thi Rieng Tun g HTV Television Ton u iX Th an y en NG au gM Tun i Bu Tra n Can h INH AI KH Tru o Ngu IM Chi L 30 Thang 4 yen u Park Han Th Tan Tao Dan Park nh NG TH Ng d re nd xa Ale Labour Culture Chu HCMC Palace a Conservatory of Music n o Ca Ma cD inh n Va EN UY I HA Ho u Ng A m Tha De cC ua in K INH st eur KH OI NG HI M HI u Ch Do Cao T hang Kha Quo NG E UY NT G Hoa Lu Stadium G I NG K HO Huu Na m n Va Vo h n Tra KH IEM oD Ph Luo ng Th at cT hao hac RU N n OA N KY g on Su War Remnants Museum TAM tA ye KY ieu N Ba Huy en ieu Than D hQ hi Tan Ton Quo Ng uy en Gia Th ieu Din h T en iN ho o TL Ng e Qu yD on Pa cT BA T D en uy Ng hie hC BIN H NAM n Va Vo Tra n ng uo nH a u oX CAC H Tran Ng o HA I en hu nT Lu u o District 7 & Nha Be Kha nh DISTRICT 4 Ton D an D IEN HU NP BIE Kh ac K hoa DISTRICT 3 ong Xu uy NH hi inh Saigon South 4km wordvietnam.

com .The Final Say THE FINAL SAY NATIOANAL Kiteboarding Goes to Phan Rang Professional kiteboarding tries out a new location — Phan Rang. Words by Jon Aspin 190 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.

it was a little too late for us to include anything in our March issue. The location was also important. Judging by the smiles on people’s faces in the pictures we’ve seen. including some bona-fide European national champions. Phan Rang. Holding a professional.8m. Thanks to local supporters Manta Sail Training Centre. who took out the men’s division of KTA’s new WOO Big Air competition with a gnarly jump of 13. enabling the blue-ribbon Freestyle X category to run smoothly. (VCRSF) along with local officials and event organizers. Canoeing and Sailing Federation. which has not been here since 2012. sponsored riders. were able to shift the location slightly around Ninh Chu Bay. Straddled by Phan Thiet / Mui Ne to the south and Nha Trang / Cam Ranh to the north. So. Special mention should go to Vietnam’s own Lai Hoang Phu. Also up for grabs were cash prizes in the Time Trial category that saw racers navigate a demanding circuit five times. Son Long Thuan and Vietnam Airlines. will help put this desert-like region on the international map. Let’s hope they and the tour keep coming The Winners WOO F ACTOR Men: Lai Hoang Phu (VN) Women: Mariska Wildenburg (NED) F REESTYLE X Men: Dylan van der Meij (NED) Women: Marine Duprat (FRA) TT R ACING Men: Narapichit Pudla (THAI) Women: Jingle Chen (CHN) SUP X-C HAMP Men: Alexsander Shafinsky (RUS) Women: Marine Duprat (FRA) wordvietnam. and the everyone-can-have-a-go. but still competitive SUP sprint. mixed it with Asia’s best. international competition on the outskirts of its major city.PHOTOS PROVIDED BY KTA W hen the KTA Pro Kiteboarding event took place just off the coast of Phan Rang in Ninh Thuan Province back in February. tried to play havoc with the event. with each rider's best three times counting towards their score. and Andrey Salnik (UKR) on the men's side. names like Dylan van der Meij (NED). the Vietnam Rowing. Even though a storm on the first or you can check out them out at facebook. — Jon Aspin The next stop for the KTA is in Hainan in China in May. Keep on eye on all the action and results at kiteboardtour. it was a welcome return to Vietnam for the Asian Pro Tour. Here. here are a few photos from what by all accounts turned out to be a sensational time in a pristine location. as well as their hosts for the competition Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club and Bar. the province of Ninh Thuan is often overlooked in favour of its better-known counterparts up and down the central | April 2016 Word | 191 . and Marine Duprat (FRA) and Annabel van Westerop (NED) in the women’s event. and some difficult wind conditions.

The key has been changing the focus slightly so that this is not just an expat rag — it’s got a bit of something for everyone. we got everyone to take off their shoes before they were allowed in. How will they talk about it? If they write like they’re a rabbit caught in the headlights. this Has the business given you the opportunity to meet wellknown people or enjoy unusual experiences which otherwise you might not have had? Yes. However. The same friend ended up as one of the founders. One person. But it’s taken a bit of time. For me. How (and how much) has the 192 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam. Because the party was on a lawn. Have there been any highlight moments which stick in your memory? The launch of our Hanoi edition in November 2009. I guess I’m just a sucker for punishment! Also. changed over the years? Running a business in the cultural area is clearly more sensitive than if you were. And to get the license we had to have good contacts. if they see more into it — for example.The Final Say Ten10 Nick Ross likes to avoid the limelight. though. to be honest. The idea was to get rid of airs and graces. How difficult was it to get going? Has the readership profile Very. patience and the realisation that a bit like Sisyphus. just for us. it feels like we’re in a different universe. a manufacturer of widgets. What do they see when they write about this country? Let’s say they want to talk about crossing the road. and of course. He had done a magazine in Saigon in the early 1990s and somehow revived the idea with me. How hard is it to find and keep knowledgeable staff in such a transient market? Has it got easier or harder? It’s very difficult. The other issue was convincing people that what we were doing was worth supporting. What has been the most surprising change to you? The speed of it. Vietnamese readers alone make up 25% of our audience. even told me in lessthan-polite words where to get off. We did it at Softwater by the Red River. who’s now a good friend of mine. it wasn’t until I returned to Vietnam a couple of months later that I discovered it was really possible. If I compare early 2000 to now. However. I’ve never manufactured anything in my whole life. Finally I am being allowed out of the woodwork! You’ve obviously seen an enormous amount of change in your 16 years here. It’s affected business models. maybe now is about time How did the plan of publishing an arrival of online publishing English-language magazine come changed your business? Loads. What would you say are the three key attributes you need to run a business like yours here? Perseverance. no matter how far up the mountain you push the boulder. without a doubt. forget it. Your journalists need to be well informed about Vietnam. Presumably your core audience is from the Anglosphere. I think we’re finally getting to grips with it and what people want from digital. Fortunately we found someone who could help on that front. but considering he’s been at the helm of this rag for 100 issues. How do you walk this line? I don’t really know. and put us all on the same level. not about? It came originally from someone I was working with in Singapore in early 2005. It was all about getting the license. It worked. the most unusual experiences were when I climbed Hamburger Hill — my relationship with the Co Tu guide was bizarre — and the crazy. Oh. Our non-native English speaking readership has grown dramatically over the years. it will always roll back down again. say. Not bad. can use the concept of crossing a road as a metaphor for life in Vietnam — then they may have something. really. . It’s all in the details. How much have you been able to draw in non-native English readers (especially Vietnamese). but for everyone in the media industry. And it’s no easier now than it was at the start. It’s enabled me to travel pretty much everywhere in Vietnam and meet people from all walks of society. crazy day I spent in Kontum where I ended up at an ethnic minority wedding drinking rice wine out of a straw from a shared pot.


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