Word Vietnam February 2016

F for
Fashion
TH GII PUBLISHERS
W
OR
DV
IE
TN
AM
.C
OM
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 2
TC GI: BAO ROSS
Moet et Chandon made in pernay - 12% Vol
The name
says it all,
The Society Bar & Grill not only provides a unique, new-age dining experience,
but also the ultimate in hospitality.
Located in the newly revamped Saigon Garden on Nguyen Hue,
The Society brings the iconic alley bar to Vietnam.
Current Promotions:
- Daily happy hour from 5pm to 8pm: 50% off all drinks except bottles
- 20% off all a la carte food items (until February 29th)
- Set lunches:
One-course meal - VND149,000
Two-course meal - VND199,000
Three-course meal - VND249,000
Grand Opening Party on 28 February 2016
with Live DJ and Theme Party
Ground Floor, Saigon Garden, 99 Nguyen Hue, District 1, HCMC

Reservations: 08.39143.999 / info@thesociety.com.vn
Facebook page: Facebook.com/ThesocietyHCM
Contents
Feb. 2016
58
102
112
THE TALK
010 / Monkey Brains
26 / At Half Mast
The turtle in the lake is no more
Tis the Year of the Monkey
INSIDER
011 / The Big Five
48 / A Visual Storyteller
Events to look out for this month
BRIEFINGS
12 / The Street Food Market
Saigon gets another new
food court. This one could be
a winner
14 / Up the Pole
Fancy learning to pole dance,

anyone?
16 / The Body Transformation

Challenge
Time to create a new you
18 / Boules, Anyone
The ptanque league in Hanoi. Its

a funny old game
2 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com
A portrait of fashion industry

insider, Dzung Yoko
50 / Thao Vu
A sustainable approach to fashion
52 / A Short History of
Thao Dien
From swimming pool mecca to

construction site
58 / F for Fashion
Style, creativity and looks. An

insiders view into the world of
fashion
88 / Helter Skelter
94 / A Beginners Guide to
Motorcycle Maintenance
Time to get practical
102 / Setting a Benchmark
The greenest building in Vietnam
106 / The Upper Crust
Saigon gets itself a new restobar.

This one could be a little special
EAT & DRINK

110 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
This months review: Chops
112 / The Many Faces of Bun Cha
Hanois (second) favourite dish, but

not as you know it
116 / Mystery Diner HCMC
This months review: Le Terroir
No fashion issue would be complete 118 / Street Snacker HCMC

without a fashion shoot. This ones A street snack made just for Tet:
a good un
sui cao chien
wordvietnam.com | February 2016 Word | 3
Contents
Feb. 2016
120
134
138
TRAVEL
150 / Bar Stool
158 / Medical Buff
120/ Going Deep
152 / Coffee Cup
164/ Business Buff
156 / Top Eats
166 / Body and Temple
160 / City Map
174 / The Gym Diaries
HCMC
180 / Amazing Grapes
134 / Notes From

Another City
32 / To-Do List
188 / A World of Good
Fancy a trip to Vung Tau, anyone?
37 / Overscene
FINAL SAY
138 / The Motorbike

Diaries
162 / HCMC City Guide
192 / The Other Plates Got

More Rice
Diving with Rainbow
126 / Making Tracks the

Long Way
Drawing a new route through

Vietnams northern frontier
Arunachal Pradesh, Assam and

Meghalaya
HANOI
40 / To-Do List
44 / Overscene
178 / Coffee Cup

182 / Top Eats 1
Everywhere you live in the world

has its frustrations. Best get used
to it
184 / Top Eats 2
194 / The Language Beast
190 / City Map
140 / Hanoi City Guide
COLUMNS
146 / Book Buff
144 / Day Tripper
148 / The Therapist
Learning Vietnamese is
tough, just dont feel bad
about it
196 / Ten 10
Fashion industry pioneer and

visionary, Nguyen Cong Tri
Wishing you a very monkey-like 2016

From all them Great Apes at
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team to tell us about

the most fashionable item they own
HARRY HODGE
Contributor
I have a pretty sweet CK watch my
wife bought me for our anniversary.
But its a heavy metal thing and after
driving for more than 10 minutes
in Saigon I have to wash my arm to
dislodge the grime that accumulates underneath the
wristband in traffic.
JON ASPIN
Staff Editor
Im Australian, whats fashion? If I
cant wear a pair of double-pluggers,
stubbies and a wife-beater, Im not
going.
JESS3 MEADOWS
Staff Writer
When I was in Miami, I got some
tights that have leopards and sparkly
gold chains printed all over them. I
call them my party pants.
SIAN KAVANAGH
Contributor
A fantastic blue clutch bag made from
an antique kimono. It makes me feel
stylish in any outfit.
VI PHAM
Contributor
My golden bling bling pair of slip-ons!
Im still waiting to see if they can bring
me to Oz
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
If I could say my wife, I would, as
she really knows how to dress. But
fortunately you dont wear a human
being. Beyond that, my fashion sense extends as far
as Gap, Next, Carharrt and the occasional trip to
secondhand clothes shops like Replay.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
nick@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Editorial Manager
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Creative Director
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JON ASPIN
Staff Editor
jon@wordvietnam.com
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Photo Editor
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Staff Photographer
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FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter & Photographer
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
OWEN SALISBURY
Staff Writer
owen@wordvietnam.com
JESSE MEADOWS
Staff Writer (Hanoi)
jesse@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
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Special thanks to Peter Scott, Sin Kavanagh, Kate Robinson, Harry Hodge, The Intimate
Initiative, Hung Tran from Gotit, Dzung Yoko, Thao Vu from Kilomet 109, Giang from Thao Dien,
Lorenzo Kaleolani, Nguyen Diem Nhung, Tony Tuong, Mon Amie: King of Vest, Louise BachMogensen, Ella Henry, Thuy Nguyen, Nguyen Duy Thanh, Thiep Nguyen, Green One UN House,
Huyen Tran, Vi Pham, Rainbow Divers, Jan Adrian Venter, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Truong
from Bookworm, Douglas Holwerda, Duy Khanh, Ali Cannon, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Natalia
Martinez, Jim Cawood, Dana McNairn, Peter Scott, Nguyen Cong Tri and David Legard
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SCH CHUYN QUNG CO
Prelude
m not a fashionista
definitely not.
Although, over
the past two
years my dress sense
has improved, my
Vietnamese wife and
oldest daughter are
the fashion gurus of
our family.
That they take
the way they look
and the way they
dress so seriously
is unsurprising.
Vietnam is obsessed
by status, and status is
projected here via your
outward image. The
car or motorbike you

drive, the clothes you
wear, the accessories
you boast, the bars
or restaurants you
frequent, even the
house or apartment
you live in. They
both know that. But
they also know that
looking good makes
you feel good. Being
from the UK we
really are a country
of sloppy dressers
this is something that
although I respect,
I dont find to be so
important.
Fortunately for
you, this issue is
not about me or my
family, its about the
fashion industry in
Vietnam, an industry
that is strangely
unbalanced. Yet its an

industry that should
in theory fit well with
the outlook of this
increasingly financially
well-endowed nation.
Vietnam, especially its
women, loves to dress
up, loves to look great.
Yet understanding
how this industry
works requires going
beyond the surface.
This is what we have
tried to do. Yes, weve
done the mandatory
fashion shoot, the final
product, the beautiful
part that you see on
the catwalks and in
the magazines, but
weve also looked at
other aspects of this
maturing industry.
From a day spent with
a tailor through to
interviews with fashion

industry insiders and a
visit to a shoe factory,
weve tried to cover all
angles.
Will this make me
dress any better?
Probably not. Will it
make you dress any
better? Who knows?
But hopefully this
months issue will
certainly give you a
different perspective
on an industry that is
too often viewed as
shallow and trivial.
Contrary to popular
belief, fashion in
Vietnam is anything
but.
Wishing you a
Happy New Year.
Chuc Mung Nam Moi!
Nick Ross, Chief
Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 2
TC GI: BAO ROSS
F for
Fashion
TH GII PUBLISHERS
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OR
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The
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Photo by Francis Xavier
Model: Diem Nhung
Design by DH Advertising
Have Your Say

Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook facebook.com/word.vietnam or
via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to
hearing from you.
Inbox
Do you have
any comments
that you would
like to air? If
so, reach out
and touch
us at nick@
wordvietnam.
com were at
your fingertips.
The January Issue

Weve just read the glamorous
PDF of Word. You are so
amazing at putting all the
information together. It must be
hard work. Edible art, wearable
art and everything else. So
interesting. HM
Just holding the newest Word
edition in my hand and I
have to make a compliment:
the magazine simply looks
awesome! It is so amazing to
have seen the development
during the past five years! I
have lived in many cities and
this is the best city magazine
I know! You do such a great
job, couldnt imagine living
in Vietnam without the Word!
KK
Just back from my holidays in
Sri Lanka. Finally got to see
this months issue of the Word
on my lunch break today.
Its great. Full of interesting
stuff... too much to mention.
Anyway, I just wanted to drop

you a line to say well done.
My favourite issue to date.
DOF
Just seen the January issue of
The Word. Loving the Creative
Issue idea, but where were
the Dramatic Arts? Theatre
is a growing business here
in Saigon and Dragonfly are
proud to lead the way in
bringing English language
theatre to the city. We work
hard to promote the dramatic
arts, as do the visual and
film artists here, and would
love to have been included
in the Creative Issue. Our
last production, Lawrence
and Holloman, drew a large
audience of very theatrically
satisfied customers raving
about the professional and
thought provoking play they
witnessed. We would have
loved to have shared that
with your readers. Belinda
Smith, Dragonfly
On Leaving
(page 192, January 2016)
So the article is basically about Nick Ross
coming to VN for a month, being kidnapped by
zuzu aliens and forced to listen to Hotel California
for 16 years. Yep, sounds about right. Anon
Your article On Leaving really rocks. My brother
who used to live in Hanoi for three years, shared
your article on FB, saying: Same-Same. CO
Beautifully written, with a raw deep nerve.
Brave and stunning and shit hot. [Nick Ross]
you are not leaving. RR
Beautifully written and yes, Hotel California is an
incredibly irritating song. MC
We went back to England for six weeks. It was
not the country I grew up in anymore. My
13-year-old son could not wait to get back to
Vietnam. TL
Correction
The advert run on page 57 created by staff of
advertising agency Leo Burnett was wrongly
credited. It should have been credited to Jeremy
and Vy. We apologise for the error
Talk
Lead
THE TALK
LEAD ARTICLE
Monkey Brains
As we stagger out of the Goat era, its time for a new start
oes anyone care whether 2016 is

the Year of the Monkey? Its the
year of the iPhone 7, the Nauru
general election and Euro 2016.
Surely that should be enough.
Youre quite wrong, a Vietnamese
friend, schooled in such matters, told me. It
is most important. These things go in cycles.
Think back to what was happening in your
life during the last Year of the Monkey 12
years ago, or 24 years ago, or...
I get the point, I said hastily.
I thought about trying to recall what
happened to me in 2004 and 1992, buts
its a futile exercise for someone who cant
remember what they had for breakfast last
Tuesday. All I can recall about 2004 is that
I was expertly pickpocketed in Saigon by a
kid wearing a T-shirt saying Happy Richy
Sexy, and brooded about it for days. Or was
that 2003?
Then it occurred to me not to be so selfish.
By delving back into the general history of
earlier Monkey years, it shouldnt be too
hard to come up with some guidelines of
what the world can expect in 2016. Here is
my analysis:
**********
1) The worlds first biometric selfie stick
will go on sale in March. If youre looking
particularly rough, or havent brushed
your teeth, it will back the camera off so
far as to obscure the wretched details.
Dont try this in the Louvre after a night
on the absinthe.
2) A late addition to the Rio Olympics will

be the sport of Speed Metro-Building,
as the authorities try desperately to
complete the infrastructure on time.
Vietnam will not be participating.
3) Scientists will come up with a formula,
similar to Einsteins great E=mc2 in its
simplicity, which will help discover the
smallest entity in the universe, namely
the collective amount of wisdom to be
found on Twitter.
4) The box office hit of the summer is Rocky
IX, in which Rocky Balboa regains the
title when Apollo Creed is disqualified in
the 8th round for having a squeaky wheel
on his walking frame.
5) Rupert Murdoch is convicted in the
UK of being personally involved in
the News Corporation phone-hacking
scandal, but is spared a prison term after
his lawyers persuade the judge that the
81-year-old media magnate is suffering
from anatidaephobia, the fear that,
somewhere in the world, a duck is
watching you.
6) Due to a clerical error, Dennis Rodman
is elected Secretary-General of the UN to
succeed Ban Ki-Moon. He will assume
his duties on Jan. 1, 2017, or maybe a few
days later, if they can find him.
7) Re-runs of the TV show Friends are
banned in Canada on the grounds that
it discriminates against people who

dont have any friends. The ban is lifted
a week later after it is pointed out that it
was precisely the people without
any friends who watched the show
in the first place.
8) The newly elected US President will
finally be allowed into the UK after
purchasing Aberdeen and renaming it
Trumpville.
9) In December, the worlds politicians
will save the planet for the 22nd
consecutive year, accompanied by 40,000
bureaucrats, journalists, NGO staffers
and delegates from the Amalgamated
Order of Bearded Santas.
It looks like being a tough year, but then the
Year of the Monkey is not regarded as the
most propitious in the Lunar calendar. Some
readers may remember 2013, the Year of the
Snake, regarded as the most propitious of
all for having children; so propitious, in fact,
that it was hard even to get my bicycle tyres
pumped up, the only mechanic of note in my
Mekong Delta town being a young, married
Chinese fellow.
And if you are a Year of the Monkey child,
as a prominent astrology website notes, you
are talented, creative, generous, charming,
loyal and you like bananas. But, the
website advises: Dont marry a Horse.
Whatever year you were born in, Word
wishes Happy Richy Sexy to you all. Peter
Scott
Big5
The
Tet, Tet
and did we
mention
Tet? Yes, the
Lunar New
Year is upon
us and so is
the monkey
Tet Fireworks
Fireworks over the Bitexco Tower in Saigon. Coming to you this month.
DThe BBGV will be bringing the 1920s to Saigon for their 20-year anniversary bash
a)
b)
All of Vietnam
Sunday, Feb. 7
Its one of events of the year, the

fireworks on Tet Eve, and this year
Hanoi is putting on displays at 31
locations including six spots where
the fireworks will be sky high. If
youre not escaping the New Year
madness and want to welcome in
the Year of the Monkey in style,
then here are your options for some
midnight gunpowder: Hoan Kiem
Lake, Thong Nhat Park, Lac Long
Quan, Van Quan Lake and My Dinh
National Stadium.
Naturally, Ho Chi Minh City
refuses to be outdone, although
many of the displays down south
will be in the hinterland Tet
Eve in Can Gio anyone? So, for
downtown or close to downtown
head to the area above Thu Thiem
Tunnel, Dam Sen Park or yes, we
know youll love this spot, Go Vap
Cultural Park.
And if you want to see the
fireworks from a higher vantage
point, then this Tet were sure youll
work out why all these skybars have
appeared over the past three years.
Yes, theyve got their uses.
Valentines Day
2
All of Vietnam
Sunday, Feb. 14
b
dinner this year, but apart from the
five-star hotels, all of which have got
something set up, and our friends at
The Deck in Saigon they do have
a rather romantic spot on the river
nothing has been released yet. Tet
just gets in the way.
So, our answer? Check out our
website at wordvietnam.com closer to
the date, and you never know what
you might find. It could even be love!
Foosball Tournament
The Roaring 20s
CAMA ATK, Hanoi

Thursday, Feb. 25
InterContinental Asiana Saigon,

HCMC
5
Saturday, Mar. 19
When you get frustrated, theres

nothing better than hitting a ball or
two. Thats exactly what CAMA ATK
have in mind by reviving their notso-regular foosball tournament at the
end of this month.
Sign up with a pal, head down to
the bar, and bash the hell out of each
other. Want to know how? Turn to
page 42.
Bloody Mary Competition

4
We would love to tell you where to
go for that all important Valentines
the stomach and out of pocket, then it

must be time for some sweet, Tabasco
and vodka-infused recovery. Where
better to head then than Saigons first
ever Bloody Mary Competition. Yes,
bloomin Bloody Marys.
The place with the competition
is Pitchers in Phu My Hung, and
the contestants? Turn to page 34
and you might end up being one
yourself.
Pitchers Sports & Grill, HCMC

Saturday, Feb. 28
If Tet and all that li xi youve had to

give out has left you feeling full of
The Brits know how to throw a

party. So, naturally, when the British
Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV)
mark their 20th anniversary on Mar.
19, theres going to be quite a song and
dance. Although dont expect there to
be any Morris Dancing that ones
a thing of the past the Brits will,
however, be doing the Charleston.
This ones got Great Gatsby written
all over it, thank you very much.
Welcome to the Roaring 20s!
To get down and get funky with
our friends at BBGV, turn to page 36
and book your tickets. This is a big
one. 20 years big.
Briefings
HCMC
The Street Food Market

V
Paying homage to the mighty food court
ietnam is a street food lovers

paradise. Yet until the end of
last year, except for the weekend
night market on Hang Dao in
Hanoi, nobody had thought to put all
those street food stalls scattered around
this country into one, handy place.
Enter the Ben Thanh Street Food Market.
Located on Thu Khoa Huan, 100m up the
hill from Saigons central market, judging
by its early reception (and the crowds), its
already proving a success.
Not Just Vietnamese

Decked out with a stage space for live music
performances, art murals and wooden

picnic benches, although construction is
still ongoing, the food court is proving a
trendy spot to grab a bite to eat and a cold,
afternoon drink.
The set up is modeled after Singaporeanstyle food courts and offers a large variety
of stalls. Most are of the Vietnamese street
food variety, with the likes of banh xeo, banh
mi and spring rolls sharing stand space
with hotpots, pho and a wide selection of
fresh seafood.
The other stalls have everything from
Chinese barbecued chicken to sushi, Thai
food, smoothies, juices and desserts.
Though more expensive than the more

traditional street food youll find around
town, prices remain reasonable. Drinks
start at VND15,000 and food goes from
VND30,000 for tourists and locals alike.
According to the local press, the markets
mission is to serve up traditional and
non-traditional street food in a safe and
hygienic environment.
A Place of Contrasts
Walking around the market you cant
help but experience the intense aromatic
combination of lemongrass, chilli, fish
sauce and durian.
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
The views and proximity to Ben Thanh

market mean that the street food market
will inevitably become a choice place to
come and beat the heat or end a day of
sightseeing in the city. On my visit, the
foot traffic alone from the Ben Thanh Night
Market meant that the place was filled until
closing time.
Saigon is a place of contrasts, and this
street food market is no different. Its the
kind of place where you can eat classic
Southeast Asian dishes while listening
to Taylor Swift, One Direction and a
multitude of languages and accents. Not
everyones cup of iced tea, but the idea is
good.
Go for the food, stay for the atmosphere
and leave with a host of new companions
and friends. Sin Kavanagh
Ben Thanh Street Food Market is open from
10am to 11pm every day and is located at 19
Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, HCMC
Briefings
Hanoi
Up the Pole
Fancy learning to pole dance, anyone?
hoever said beauty is pain,

probably tried pole dancing.
The back of my thighs were
burning red and raw as I
gripped the pole behind my knees and
flung myself backwards into space,
spinning around towards the floor.
Now, get back up, but do it beautifully,
the instructor said, as I fell into a crumpled
heap around the pole. Right. I turned to
give her a look of defeat but she was already
on the other side of the room, climbing up
another pole ninja-style and effortlessly
spiraling her body down around it, toes
pointed like a ballerina.
Twenty-eight-year-old Hai Linh Nguyen
learnt how to pole dance four-and-a-half
years ago while living in Belgium. After
placing third in the 2014 Belgian Pole Dance
Championships, she decided to bring her
knowledge back to Vietnam. In the hopes
of teaching the women (and men!) of Hanoi
how to love their bodies, she opened Hanoi
Pole Mania five months ago.
Surprisingly, people have a very open
view on pole dancing [in Vietnam], she
says.
While closely associated with strip clubs
in the West, the dance actually began in
India, with a sport called mallakhamba, or
pole gymnastics. It became popular in
travelling circuses in the 1920s, and over

the years was combined with burlesque to
become one of Americas seedier forms of
entertainment. It wasnt until the 1990s that
pole dancing began to be used for fitness; in
recent years, there has even been a push to
add it as a sport in the Olympics.
From the Core

The hardest thing about this art is making
it look easy. Its a skill that requires massive
amounts of upper body and core strength,
combined with a dancers grace, and a
runners endurance. To build these muscles,
Hai Linh lead the six of us through a yogabased warm-up session set to hip-hop, then
showed us some basic moves that involved
using our body weight, chest first, to propel
us around the pole. And those tiny shorts are
not just for looks, either; the more skin you
have exposed, the better grip you can get on
the metal.
I found it hard to make a complete circle
around the pole; she explained that it was
my grip that controlled my speed, and my
fear that kept me from letting go enough
to make the full 360 degrees. I assessed
my distance from the hardwood floor. It
wasnt that far. Falling wouldnt be so bad,
I thought. The skin on my legs is totally not
burning, I convinced myself.
So round and round I went until finally,

in the last five minutes of class, I released
my terrified vice grip just enough to make
it one full rotation. 'Did anyone see that?
Did I look cool?!' I thought in excitement,
as I crashed clumsily to the floor once
again. Probably not. But did I feel good
about myself for this small, mildly painful
victory? Definitely.
Making the Impossible, Possible

It makes people realise that their bodies can
do things that they didnt think they could
do, Hai Linh says of her favourite dance.
And it doesnt take long to see progress,
either. A fellow classmate told me shed been
dancing only two months, but could already
climb to the top of the pole. I pointed at the
bruises on her legs.
When do those stop? I asked.
Hai Linh, whod been eavesdropping,
laughed. Your skin gets used to it, she
said. Two days later, and I can barely pull
myself out of bed. All my neglected muscles
are crying out at being woken up again. Its
a good pain, though; a tangible reminder of
what it feels like to get out of your digital
world and back into your body. Jesse
Meadows
For more info on Hanoi Pole Mania click on
hanoipolemania.com
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
Briefings
HCMC
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
The Body
Transformation Challenge
From Feb. 21, two health practitioners will be giving Saigon
citizens the chance to create a new you
PHOTOS BY OWEN SALISBURY
ts always a challenge taking the big

step to finally commit to losing weight
and getting fit.
So why not let other people create
the challenge for you the Saigon Body
Transformation Challenge, in fact. The rules
are simple: Who can lose the most body fat
and centimetres over a four-week period, as
measured by the organisers of this event, La
Holista and Nickys Zumba Fitness Clubs.
People in Saigon may have difficulties
staying on a health regime due to cheap
takeaways, stressful grocery shopping
experiences and overall lack of community
support, says Chiara Squinzi of La Holista.
With this challenge we hope to give
education, support and space to people who
are serious about changing their lifestyle and
getting fit, adding a few prizes just to make it
fun and keep them focused and motivated.
Forming Long Lasting Habits

The challenge addresses both sides of the
fitness conundrum exercise and nutrition.
Exercise consists of either 10 classes of the
Latin-American inspired Zumba dance
workout, eight crossfit sessions, or one
months unlimited yoga sessions, all at Nickys
Zumba clubs.
This is supported by four different
nutrition options for one months healthy
eating, for example, two Herbalife Shake
boxes of 21 healthy meals with 100%
natural ingredients, (five different flavours
available at only 200 calories per meal), and
16 snack servings (cookies and energy balls)
from La Holista.
The reason that the challenge lasts one
month has to do with human nature, says
Squinzi.
It is said that you need 21 days to form
a habit, she adds. We hope that giving

people 30 days of focused time will help
participants keep some of these healthy
habits forever.
Among the potential benefits are
weight loss, increased energy, better sleep,
better eating patterns, cleared skin, better
digestion, clearance of pathologies, but
the challenges goals are more general and
more modest.
Overall wellness and increased life quality
by lowering body fat percentage are definitely
important for us, says Squinzi. And in this
case, this is what we will focus on.
Individual Attention
Because of the personal help given to all
the contestants, the challenge is limited to
30 places. But even if you dont make it to
register on time, the same classes, nutrition
and supplements offered during the
challenge are still available at the clubs as
part of their normal business.
There are two separate competitions
most body fat lost and most centimetres lost.
Prizes include a private healthy shopping
tour with La Holista, as well as free classes
and supplements.
The price to enter the challenge is
VND3.5 million with a discount for early
bookings.
For info, email chiara@laholista.com or visit
laholista.com. The launch will be from 3pm
to 5pm on Feb. 21 at City Garden, 59 Ngo
Tat To, Binh Thanh, HCMC while the final
measurements will be taken exactly four weeks
later at the same location.
Briefings
Hanoi
Boules, Anyone?
In Hanoi, ptanque is alive and very well, awash with joie de vivre
riday night at Chez Xuan, the Ricard

is flowing someones got a bottle
and the ptanque aficionados are
out in force. With a gravel terrain de
ptanque illuminated by yellow streetlamp
lighting, a match is about to start. But this
is not French versus French, this is a team
of two Brits squaring up to two Gallic
devotees of this most French of games. Les
Autres are playing Les Tons Tons.
There are a few non-French teams in the
league, explains Colin from Les Autres.
There is also a Swiss-Scottish team called
Roast Boeuf and a team of Vietnamese
ladies called Ladyboules. We are Les Autres
the others. Not sure if it makes sense in
French, but people seem to like the name.
Invented in 1910 by a French caf owner,
Ernest Pitiot, ptanque is a form of boules
where the aim is to throw hollow metal
balls as close as possible to a small wooden
ball called a cochonnet. Players have to stand
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
inside a circle with both feet on the ground.

Today the French Ptanque Federation has
300,000 licensed members and the sport is
played around the world, mainly but not
exclusively in former French colonies.
With this countrys history, its no
surprise that ptanque is also found in
Hanoi its just something you dont
hear about all that much. Although played
mainly by French expats, the Vietnamese
also have a penchant for this form of
boules in 2012 the 16th Asian Ptanque
Championships were held in the capital.
The Vietnamese team finished second in
the medal tally with three gold medals, five
silvers and six bronzes.
A Tense Match
As the square-up starts, the atmosphere
is tense. On a table next to the terrain
de ptanque, an audience watches on,
discussing the game, intensely observing
the unfolding of this power match. The
games consists of a number of rounds, or
ends. As each end finishes, players and
onlookers gather in the middle of the pitch
to assess the final position of the balls. At
one point a tape measure comes out; two of
the boules are an almost identical distance
from the cochonnet and its too close to call.
The first set goes to Les Tons Tons, the

team headed by Pascal, the owner of Chez
Xuan. However, in the second set Les Autres
run into an 11-1 lead, only to be pegged back
by their never-say-die opponent.
Comments Colin: Les Tons Tons went
for a risky tir or shot when you knock
the opponents boules out with a fast throw.
They missed and it handed us the set, 13-9.
We were relieved.
He adds: The later on a Friday night that
you play [Les Tons Tons], the more chance
you have of winning.
The match was tied at one set apiece.
another ball out and staying to collect the point

is called a carreau. Doing that is really hard but
when you occasionally manage it, immensely
satisfying. Nick Ross
To get involved or to watch a game or two,
enquire at Chez Xuan, 41 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay
Ho, Hanoi, Tel: 0915 085305
Never Mind the Bollocks

With all the games played at Chez Xuan a
French bar and garden restaurant with two
terrain de ptanque it was well-known
French-Vietnamese expat Fredo Binh who first
got Les Autres involved in the league.
We played ptanque against Fredo in his
place La Vie Vu Linh on a bike trip, recalls
Colin. He suggested we join. Fredos team is
called Les Bollocks.
He adds: Ptanque is one of those games
along with pool, darts and table football where
judging your alcohol intake is one of the main
skills. It is easy to play and understand, but
far from easy to master. Successfully shooting
Charity
of the Month
Clean Up Vietnam Day

Time to do some litter picking
here are so many characters in

Vietnam. You dont have to have
been here for long to know that.
Most blend into the milieu and
are soon forgotten, while others stand
out, like Scott Alderson. Among the many
things hes done in his colourful life, the
environmental scientist from Melbourne,
now teacher, bar manager and project
manager, once risked his life to be part of
the Sea Shepherd boat crew.
If you havent heard of them,
thats a team of what he describes as
environmental adrenaline junkies,
closely resembling a cult, who sail out into

dangerous waters on a boat now called
the Steve Irwin, to interfere with whale
and seal fishing operations off Japan and
Norway.
Cleaning Up
Now, after five years in Vietnam, Scott is
at it again, but this time he simply wants
to clean up. Thats why hes launching
the first edition of Clean Up Vietnam Day
on Apr. 17. Motivated to leave a lasting
change for the better, and to improve
visitors first impression of the country,
hes importing a model thats already been

running successfully in Australia for 26
years.
Scott hopes that he can eventually
engage a similar percentage of the
population in his version. Back home that
amounts to 2 percent of 20 million people
who get together in local communities,
schools, sports clubs, beaches, wherever,
and simply do what the name of the day
suggests; clean up. We all know its a
huge problem here, where a culture of
someone elses problem prevails, so if he
can eventually get the same percentage of
Campaigner
Previously a campaigner for the likes of
Greenpeace, Australian Conservation
Foundation, and Friends of the Earth, as
well as Aboriginal advocacy groups, Scott
is used to applying his knowledge and
contacts to agitate for change. Based on
some of those contacts, which back home
in Australia included sections of the music
industry, he even made a compilation
album once to raise money.
Peter Garrett, the former Australian
Environment Minister and still frontman
of iconic and politically motivated Aussie
rock group Midnight Oil, wrote the
foreword for Scott on the albums sleeve
notes. It includes the following piece
of inspiration: Making a stand takes a
person from passive observer to active
participant and speeds the changes in

history that are possible when we work
together for a common good.
Community
So, based on that simple principle of
coming together for the common good,
Scott wants as many people as possible
to register on the Clean Up Vietnam
website, and get engaged in improving the
environment in which we all live, even if
its only in one alley, one pond, one stretch
of beach, anywhere, for two hours on one
day.
Each registrant will get a plastic bag,
gloves and everything they need to
take part. And of course its totally free.
Spreading the message by speaking to
local and international schools, he hopes
the effect of his campaign will be to
ultimately change behaviour.
As much as it is about cleaning up
the environment, it is also about bringing

communities together and raising
awareness of the long-term benefits of
keeping our urban spaces clear of litter,
says Scott. Jon Aspin
The inaugural Clean Up Vietnam Day is on
Apr. 17, 2016. Register yourself, your school or
your club to take part at cleanupvietnam.org. If
youre a business interested in supporting the
idea, call the offices on (08) 3551 0430
Quick Fact
According to a recent study by Ocean
Conservancy, Vietnam, China, the
Philippines, Thailand and Indonesia are
responsible for as much as 60 percent of
the plastic waste dumped into the ocean
each year. Thats why the opportunity to
do this here is exciting, says Scott. We
can make a huge impact.
ILLUSTRATION BY VU HA KIM VY
Vietnams citizens to participate, thats a

lot of people. He'll need them.
Briefings
Vietnam
The Intimate Initiative

Improving access to sexual health education in Vietnam
hen I first walk in to Amy

Cowans house, which doubles
as the Intimate Initiatives base
of operations in Hanoi, there
are boxes full of condoms and stickers
everywhere.
Sorry about the mess, Amy says,
shifting bags of condoms out of the way
so I can sit down. Im there to find out
more about the Initiative, a new social
enterprise Amy co-founded that aims to
improve access to sexual health education
in Vietnam by providing financial support
and content for workshops on sexual and
reproductive health. Social enterprises
fall somewhere between charities and
companies; they pursue profit-making only
in order to support a social or charitable
mission.
The Intimate Initiative sells uniquely
designed Vietnamese textile products
that are sustainably made and have a
transparent supply chain.
We use Vietnamese textiles that are
made by ethnic minorities and prioritise

natural fibres, such as cotton and silk,
as much as possible, says Amy, adding
that they make an effort to work with
Vietnamese social enterprises that also
pursue social missions.
Justice and Equality

Amy and her co-founder Annika
Scharbert came up with the idea for the
Initiative in February of last year. They
both hold Masters degrees in sustainable
development, and are passionate about
sustainability and social issues, such as
social justice and gender equality.
These issues feed into sexuality, sex
education, and sexual health in one way
or another, aspects that are crucial for
successfully navigating our world as adults,
Amy explains. By September 2015 they had
obtained a business licence in Germany.
The girls have already piloted the
production and sale of their first product,
called Your miniMate a small cloth
band made from traditional A Luoi fabric

that goes around the wrist and contains a
pouch for small items (keys, condoms or
cash). It is produced by the Hope Center, a
social enterprise in Hue that trains ethnic
minorities and young adults with disabilities
in tailoring and handicraft-making.
Annika and Amy are currently working
hard on several different fronts; developing
their second product and a marketing
strategy, building a retail network, and
connecting with Vietnamese and European
organisations in public health and LGBT
rights, as well as other textile-andhandicraft-producing social enterprises
both here and abroad.
Why Vietnam?
Ive been living and working in Vietnam
since 2012, and feel very passionately about
my home away from home, so it seemed
only logical to combine sustainability,
entrepreneurship, and Vietnam, says Amy.
Vietnam also has a great need for sexual
PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS
health education; Amy noticed a huge

discrepancy between the sexual health
information and services available in
Europe and those available here. This gap
was first brought to her attention when her
Vietnamese roommate revealed that she
knows many people who regularly use the
morning-after pill as contraception.
Major issues with the current Vietnamese
health system include limited access to
sexual health services and information
for unmarried people; gynaecological
health checks performed typically only for
pregnancy-related reasons; widespread
ignorance of basic sexual health issues,
such as STIs or cervical cancer; and limited
information about contraceptives, which are
often used incorrectly, resulting in high rates
of unwanted pregnancies and abortions.
Even if sexual health services are
accessible for unmarried Vietnamese
people, there is a social stigma attached.
The Intimate Initiatives vision is to offer a
judgement-free safe space for young people
to learn about sex and sexual health. They

are currently working to develop materials
to teach sex education to teens and young
adults; profits from sales of their products
in Germany and elsewhere in Europe
will support the dissemination of these
materials.
Back in May, the Initiative launched a blog
to discuss topics related to sexual health,
which is being translated into Vietnamese
by a team of volunteers. According to Amy,
Our posts are light-hearted, comprehensive
and judgment-free, and cover a range of
important sexual health issues, including
sexual abuse and unhealthy relationships,
contraception, STIs and HIV/AIDS, sexual
pleasure, and sexual identity.
Sitting amidst bags of condoms and
Intimate Initiative stickers, I think about
the problems Amy and Annika are trying
to tackle. With all of their energy and
enthusiasm, they might just be dedicated
enough to make a difference. Kate
Robinson
In
Transition
Hanoi
Construction in
West Lake
Its not just Hanois outskirts that are getting new developments
very year in the run-up to Tet, a

flower-filled former lotus pond
opposite Tay Ho Water Park
doubles up as a venue for young
photographers to practice their shooting
skills. When the weather is good, the
place packs out. Men and women pose,
some take selfies some use DSLR
cameras, while others stick to mobile
phones.
Yet, next to the Ho Tay Flower Valley or
Thung Lung Hoa Ho Tay, is a development
that is not so photogenic, at least not for

now. Also built upon a former lotus lake, a
mini suburb of top-end villas is springing
up. Named Lang Doan Ket or Synergy
Village the villas will add more housing
to this growing suburb to the south of the
capital. It represents yet another roughly
cut fragment in the present obsession to
develop, build and develop. At the current
rate, within a few years every parcel of
spare land will have gone the way of the
developer. If that means reclaiming what
was once water and lotus, so be it.
Outwards, Moving In
When the boundaries of Hanoi Province
were expanded in 2008 to include the
former province of Ha Tay and parts of
Hung Yen and Vinh Phuc, it was thought
that all the developments would take place
out of town. The assumption was only
partly correct. Hoang Mai District to the
southeast of central Hanoi has experienced
huge expansion, as has Long Bien, Tu Liem
construction mode, and throughout the

area houses are being knocked down and
rebuilt, getting forever higher, forever more
foreboding.
Construction has not yet moved into silly
mode as it has in the Ho Chi Minh Citys
District 2, the southern citys equivalent
of West Lake. Down south the new mixed
residential and commercial projects are
not just in the budding phase, theyre now
putting up shoots greyer than a Brutalismera tower block. But development in Hanoi
is certainly changing the face of West Lake

and areas closer to the city centre.
Whether the Ho Tay Flower Valley
will outlive the onslaught is debatable.
Whats clear is that if lotus ponds can
get swallowed up by bulldozers and
cranes, then this quaint manifestation of
Vietnamese narcissism will struggle to
survive. Or perhaps the owners dont quite
care when the right deal comes along,
maybe they, too, will start to build. Nick
Ross
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
and more recently Dong Anh. New roads

have been built, facilitating the construction
of new living space. The development
has come mostly in the form of apartment
and villa complexes, with marketing
department-friendly designations such as
Ecopark and Royal City.
Yet long commute times from the outer
districts means that plenty of expansion
is also taking place closer to town. And
now West Lake is a focus. On Xuan Dieu,
Somerset West Point Hanoi is in full
Briefings
Hanoi
At Half Mast
The turtle in the lake is no more
The moment when cu rua, the Hoan Kiem Turtle, was finally caught in 2011
ast month the turtle affectionately

known as cu rua, meaning greatgrandfather turtle, was found dead
in Hanois Hoan Kiem Lake by a
park employee.
Thought to have belonged to an
extremely rare species of turtle, of which
only a handful of specimens exist in the
wild, some Vietnamese biologists albeit
a minority have claimed that this turtle
represented the last animal of a separate
species, which is therefore now extinct.
For years this giant and to some,
sacred reptile was shrouded in mystery,
with sightings ending up in the local news.
However, over the past decade its health
has been monitored. In 2011 the turtle was
measured 185cm long, weighing in at an
impressive 169kg. According to VnExpress,
cu rua was last seen alive on Dec. 21, 2015.
Science apart, a great deal of mythology

is involved, as according to legend, tales
of a turtle in Hoan Kiem Lake first arose in
the 15th century with Le Loi, who would
go on to become emperor of Vietnam and
founder of the Le Dynasty.
Le Loi was blessed with a magic sword
given to him by Kim Qui, the Golden
Turtle God, to defend Vietnam from the
invading Chinese army.
After defeating the Chinese, Le Loi
was boating on a lake in Hanoi when a
large turtle surfaced, took away Le Lois
sword, and dove off into the lake. Many
attempts were made to find the turtle and
the sword, without any success. Accepting
that the sword had been returned to
the Golden Turtle God, Le Loi renamed
the lake Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the
Returned Sword).
An Embalmed Future
On learning of its death, professor of biology
Ha Dinh Duc was invited to the scene
along with local authorities to discuss the
next steps for the turtle. Professor Duc has
spent years researching and tracking down
information on the giant turtle in Hoan Kiem
Lake.
Also on-site was the chairman of the
Hanoi Peoples Committee, Nguyen Duc
Chung, who assisted in handling the
incident. The turtle was moved to the Ngoc
Son Temple for preservation.
In the coming days, local authorities will
discuss with scientists the best way preserve
its body, including embalming, he said.
The Peoples Committee also announced
that the turtles remains will be kept at the
Vietnam National Museum of Nature.
Sin Kavanagh
Briefings
HCMC
Book Street
Giving two fingers to the Kindle
ast month a new pedestrian-only

book street opened on Nguyen Van
Binh, next to Notre Dame Cathedral.
A dream central location for book
lovers looking for a quiet inner city oasis
to rummage for a new book, grab a cold
drink, and read in the afternoon heat,
while the majority of the literature is in
Vietnamese, there is also a decent selection
of books in English.
Boasting a mixture of brand new
bookstalls as well as old and rare book
vendors, the book selection includes adult
colouring books and audio books, as well as
some posters and artwork. Its not Barnes &
Noble or Waterstones, but its a start.
Encouraging People to Read

The 150m-long street features books and
magazines from domestic and foreign,
publishers with 19 permanent stalls, and
a rotation of temporary vendors. There
are also two book cafs a nice spot to
come and relax with your latest novel. The
kids zone is a place to let the children play
without worrying about them getting up to
too much trouble.
There are also plans for upcoming
events to get more people, locals and
visitors excited about Nguyen Van Binh,
and to encourage more reading.

This includes weekend musical
performances, talk shows with wellknown Vietnamese authors and journalists,
childrens plays and literary exhibitions.
So will it work? At a time when young
people are more interested in sound bites
and reading digitally, it could be too little,
too late. But its certainly worth a try. As
this worthy rag is determined to prove,
books and in particular, books on paper,
should be here to stay. Sin Kavanagh
The pedestrian book street is at Nguyen Van
Binh, Q1, HCMC next to the central post office
and opposite Notre Dame Cathedral
Startup
of the
Month
Hanoi
Gotit!
Todays students use smart phones for everything. Now, an application
lets them take photos of their maths homework and get online experts to
coach them through the answers
f you were in my Year 11 physics class,

youd know that I could have used this
kind of help. In fact, we all could have
the teacher was terrible, he hated
physics more than we did. Unfortunately,
smart phones were not around then,
and the word application hadnt been
appropriated by soon-to-be rich computer
nerds.
Today, its a different story. Gotit! exists,
a mobile application connecting students to
individual coaches called study experts who
are paid to work with them in 10-minute
intervals, not only to find the answer to their
difficult maths and chemistry questions, but
explain how they got there.
Hung Tran is its co-creator and CEO
from Hanoi. Hes a PhD in computer

science and calls his model an ondemand platform for knowledge, and
labels the technology a game-changer.
The ultimate goal is to enable people to
teach each other about topics in which
they are knowledgeable via their phones,
and to ensure that any student anywhere
can get their questions answered oneon-one. Right now its limited to Maths
and Chemistry, but Physics will be made
available soon.
Heres a step by step of how Gotit! works:
1) Take a photo of a problem you cant
solve via the app
2) Connect within seconds to one of
thousands of worldwide study experts
3) Chat through your problem for the next

10 minutes
Understanding Behaviour
My problem with physics was that I
would get to the answer, but not really
understand why, begin to over-think it,
change my response and end up frustrated.
I asked Hung if his app overcomes this.
Definitely. With Gotit! we dont just provide
the answer, we provide the explanation to the
problem through a 10-minute chat session
where students interact with the expert to
really understand the problem.
The key to the apps success, he says,
actually comes from a little insight into
human behaviour.
Ask someone for help for an hour,

theres a strong chance theyll say no. Ask
for help for ten minutes, and youll find
plenty of opportunities for that. Thats why
we can handle a huge volume of problems
submitted by students every day.
He says that once a student submits a
problem, they can match the student to
an expert within 10 seconds, and that the
average session time is 6.5 minutes.
From Silicon with Love

Its essentially an online marketplace for
teachers, who bid to solve problems based on
the level of difficulty and are then connected
through the app to students. Based on what
Hung calls a freemium model; students
pay for app credits using credit cards and

build up a bank of free and reward credits so
that theyll keep playing. At present, for the
US market, eight app credits costs $US2.99,
but you are given a bank of 50 free ones
when you download the app.
Once they publicly launch, Hung and his
team in Silicon Valley, from where he chats to
me via Skype, and his team of developers and
engineers in Hanoi, expect that the take-up
of the technology will rapidly increase, and
they will look to modify prices for the rest of
the world.
A good education has clearly changed
Hungs life, and with this app, hes looking
to do the same for others. Jon Aspin
Check out Gotit! at gotitapp.co
Sports
Digest
The Nha Trang

Triathlon
Everywhere in this country is getting a
triathlon these days. The latest destination?
Nha Trang. Words by Harry Hodge
ietnam has gone from

a non-factor to a
growing destination
for high-level
triathlons and running events,
with two major triathlons
coming this year.
International event organizer
CHALLENGEFAMILY is
collaborating with Vietnams
Pulse Active, backers of the
Prisma Night Run, Conquer the
Bridge Run and more, to bring
a half-distance triathlon Nha
Trang on Sep. 11.
CHALLENGEVIETNAM
will run alongside Nha Trangs
six-kilometre stretch of coastline
and offers another triathlon
option later in the year, with the
Danang Ironman taking place in
the springtime.
CHALLENGEVIETNAM is
going to be an experience the
participants will never forget,
says Pulse Active representative
Bady Pham. We want the athletes
to feel like they own the race.
CHALLENGEVIETNAM
is the newest addition to the
long list of Challenge Family

races around the world.
CHALLENGEFAMILY hosts
events around the world, from
Australia to Mexico. Vietnamese
athletes have plenty of options
to choose from in 2016, including
the Color Me Run series, the
Champion Dash obstacle course
race in April in Ho Chi Minh
City, the Danang International
Marathon in August, and
various other events around the
country throughout the year.
Nha Trang is one of the most
beautiful places I have visited,

says CHALLENGEFAMILY Asia
Pacific CEO Marcus Altmann.
The locals are incredibly
welcoming and as with all our
races, it is a destination that will
be enjoyed by athletes and their
friends and families alike.
The race will begin with
a 1.9-kilometre swim off the
beaches of the city, followed
by a 90-kilometre bike ride and
a 21-kilometre run along Nha
Trang citys famed coastline
strip. Post-race celebrations are
Danang Hosting Central

Vietnam Games
The rivalry will continue for
bragging rights on the sporting
fields of Vietnam when the
Central Vietnam Games (CVG)
2016 will be held again in
Danang at the Son Tra Sports
Centre on Saturday, Mar. 5.
Last years inaugural CVG
was a huge fund-raising success.
Swim Vietnam and Association
Xuan shared the VND40 million
proceeds and will again be
supported by CVG in 2016.
In 2015, the Southerners
prevailed across the five sports,
including Australian Rules
football, netball, Gaelic football,
rugby and touch rugby, with the
Northerners only snaring victory
in the mens Gaelic match.
Basketball has been added to
this years mix. Volleyball and
womens soccer are also being
considered, so theres something
for everyone.
Last year, My Casa, Waterfront
Bar and Al Frescos were some
of the food and drink sponsors
for the post-CVG party and
presentations. They are on board
again for 2016.
Central Vietnam residents are
welcome to join a Northern team.
For information contact Michael
Johnston on mjinvietnam@yahoo.
com.au
Danang to Host
International Regatta
planned for the event.

Not to be outdone, IRONMAN
70.3 Vietnam event will take
place on May 8 in Danang.
With similar distances,
participants will be treated to a
scenic course that begins with
a 1.9-kilometre ocean swim
in front of the Hyatt Regency
Danang Resort & Spa. From
there, athletes will enjoy a twoloop, 90-kilometre bike course
that takes them along Danangs
pristine coastline and past some
of the citys key landmarks.
The final 21km out-and-back

run course is flat and passes by
many of Danangs famous beach
resorts before finishing at the
foot of the Marble Mountains.
With tropical conditions,
this warm-weather affair is
the perfect mid-season race
to prepare athletes for their
summer IRONMAN events.
For further information
on the Nha Trang event, visit
challengevietnam.com. For
information on the Ironman in
Danang, visit ironman.com
Vietnamese sailor Nguyen Tran

Minh An will team up with
the Danang-Vietnam team in
the race from Airlie Beach in
the Whitsundays, Australia to
Danang port during the worlds
longest ocean race, the Clipper
2015-16 Round the World Yacht
Race, writes Vietnam News.
The central citys peoples
committee said in a press
conference that Danang will host
as a home team port from Feb. 17
to Feb. 27.
The 28-year-old sailor, who
had completed pre-race tests in
Australia in preparation, said
the other competitors and their
family members will receive
warm welcomes from the
Danang community.
The local sailor, who works as
a tug boat driver for Danang Port
but has no previous ocean racing
experience, will join the DanangVietnam team for the 4,130 mile
stretch from Australia to Danang.
This leg, the seventh of the
14-stage global series, starts on
Jan. 18 and will take almost a
month to complete.
Vien Voted Top Athlete

After a successful 2015, Nguyen
Thi Anh Vien was voted Athlete
of the Year at a ceremony in
Hanoi last month, writes Thanh
Nien.
The 19-year-old swimmer
from the Mekong Delta city of
Can Tho topped the list of 10
best athletes of the year 2015
with 1,031 points, based on votes
from sports journalists across the
country.
At the 28th Southeast Asian
Games in June in Singapore, Anh
Vien won eight gold, one silver
and one bronze medals and
broke eight regional records. She
also became the first Vietnamese
swimmer to win World Cup
medals.
Vien bagged a bronze
medal at the womens 400m
individual medley in Paris on
Aug. 16, her third medal at the
2015 International Swimming
Federation (FINA) World Cup
series.
Earlier, she had won a silver
in the womens 400m individual
medley and a bronze in the 200m
individual medley at the events
Moscow stop.
Davis Cup Tie May Move

to Vietnam
Vietnam will host its Davis
Cup tie against Indonesia if the
International Tennis Federation
accepts Indonesias plea that it
cannot do so.
It is unclear why Indonesia
cannot host the event but it is
probably for security reasons,
Vietnam Tennis Federation
general secretary Nguyen Quoc
Ky said.
The Asia/Oceania zone Group
2 tie will be played from Mar. 4
to Mar. 6.
Vietnam will be represented
by its strongest possible team
consisting of Ly Hoang Nam,
Nguyen Hoang Thien, Le Quoc
Khanh, Lam Quang Tri, Pham
Minh Tuan and Trinh Linh
Giang.
The other teams in Group 2
are Chinese Taipei, Malaysia, the
Philippines, Kuwait, Sri Lanka
and Thailand.
The winner of the
Vietnam-Indonesia
tie will play the
tes
second round in
upda
July against the
Sendout yourp or
ab g grou @
winner of the
in
ry
match between
sportnt to har .com
m
e
ev vietna
Sri Lanka and
word
Thailand. The
losers will go into
the play-offs.
ToDo
list HCMC
Kids at Ta Lai learn to kayak
Hes fantastic and hes Australian Fantastic Man plays Obs on Feb. 19
4.
The Bike Shop are doing a huge clearout throughout February
2.
3.
One of the watercolours presently being exhibited at Vin Gallery
1.
Ladies pro
golf tournaments,
clearance
sales, holiday camps,
a wine and
food festival,
a 1920s bash
and a Bloody
Mary competition. All
over the next
two months
in Ho Chi
Minh City
Passers By: Ho Hung

Vin Gallery, Thao Dien, Q2
Until Feb. 29
Running until the end of February at
Vin Gallery, Ho Hungs watercolours
capture the ephemerality and the
subtle sensuousness of the everyday.
Dappled light, warm colours and
empty spaces characterize his style
and his view on the landscape of
his homeland of Southern Vietnam.
Travelling from place to place and
painting on the street, Hung records
people passing by and is himself a
stranger and a passerby to his subjects.
Weve seen Passers By and our
assessment? Well worth the short
trip in to District 2.
The exhibition is free of charge and
is open 8.30am to 5.30pm, Monday to
Saturday. Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van
Mien, Q2. Check out vingallery.com for
more information
Deals at The Bike Shop

The Bike Shop, Q2
Throughout February
The Bike Shop has run out of room
and must clear all 2015 stock. This
includes single speed fixies which
the guys are selling two for the price
of one. That's a genuine buy one
get one free offer. Also, get up to
50% off last years models and great
deals on all MTB, road, urban and
kids bikes and accessories, as well as

introductory offers on 2016 arrivals.
Plus, for Word readers only
throughout February, mention this
article and get a FREE Bike Shop
T-shirt when you spend VND750,000
or more. If you've been on the fence
about buying a bike, act now.
The Bike Shop is open every day
until Feb. 5 when it closes for Tet. It reopens on Feb. 15. Visit the shop at 250
Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC
Gojiberry
The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Feb. 5
A DJ Duo out of Canada with a
juicy-fresh disco touch, Gojiberry
is comprised of Heidy P and ASDF.
Both will be on booth duty keeping
things shook up with their assorted
takes on what makes people move.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance
is free before 11pm and VND150,000
after. For more info click on facebook.
com/theobservatoryhcmc. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC
Tet Holiday Kids Camps

Ta Lai Longhouse, Nam Cat Tien
National Park
Feb. 11 to Feb. 14
Get the house to yourself for a few
precious days this Tet holiday. Send

your kids off to camp where they
can enjoy the great outdoors while
gaining confidence and new friends
doing activities we love like kayaking,
cooking classes, bamboo raft-building
and some awesome mountain biking
in the countryside. Rest assured your
next of kin are in safe hands with the
guys at Ta Lai in charge. Youll even
get your children back in one piece
and asking about when their next
camp experience will be.
The camp costs (VND6.9million ++
per child) with organisers ensuring
a staff to child ratio of one to five at
all times. For more information check
talai-adventure.vn
Fantastic Man
The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Feb. 19
A key agent in the contemporary
Australian House scene, Fantastic
Man brings a unique, electrified
equatorial sound to both his
productions and sets. Returning to
Obs to do his thing for the second
time, support comes from Nic Ford.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance
is free before 11pm and VND150,000
after. For more info click on facebook.
com/theobservatoryhcmc. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC
Kiteboarding Tour Asia

Coming to Vietnam
Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club, Ninh
Thuan
Feb. 24 to Feb. 28
The Kiteboarding Tour Asia (KTA)
will kick-off the exciting new
X-Champs Series tour from Feb. 24
to Feb. 28 in one of Asias newest
kite surfing paradises, Ninh Chu
Bay in south central Ninh Thuan

Province.
We are incredibly pleased that
the KTA chose Ninh Chu Bay Beach
Club for their return to Vietnam,
says general director Mark Gwyther.
It confirms our belief that the resort
will become one of Asias premier
wind and adventure sport tourism
destinations. This is the first step in
developing Ninh Thuan Province as
the wind sport capital of Vietnam.
The Vietnam event will be
followed by KTA events in Thailand
and China.
For more information including
sponsorship opportunities check out
kiteboard.asia.com
ToDo
list HCMC
Mono Printing
Vin Gallery, Q2
Thursday, Feb. 25
After the success of Lino printing
last winter, Ella West, Vin Gallerys
resident print expert, will return
to guide budding artists through
another exciting printing style. So
take a big sip of wine and roll up
those sleeves its time to ink, roll
and print your way to glory!
For more information check vin-space.
com/canvas-and-wine
Answer Code Quest

The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Feb. 26
Gaining near-global recognition
for a first release is something that
seldom happens; maintaining that
momentum while keeping a low
profile is even rarer. Answer Code
Request has done all of this since
his acclaimed 2011 release on Hard
Wax, and as a resident of Berghain/
Panoramabar he has solidified
his reputation as a DJ force to be
reckoned with. This a serious music
night. Support comes from Nic
Ford.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance is
free before 11pm and VND150,000 after.
For more info click on facebook.com/
theobservatoryhcmc. The Observatory is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Red D
Mirror, mirror on the wall, whose Bloody Mary is best of all? Find out on Feb. 28 at Pitchers
Heart Beat is bringing Oliver Deutschmann to Saigon in Mid-March
The New Zealand Food and Wine Festival returns to RMIT in mid-March
6.
House guru Red D will be aiming to bring the house down at the end of February
3.
5.
Answer Code Quest will be playing The Observatory on Feb. 26
2.
4.
This months Canvas & Wine is all about learning to make prints
1.
The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, Feb. 27
Responsible for what many claim
as the most spectacular showcase
of house music The Obs has ever
witnessed, Red D is a master of the
genre and has a massive arsenal
of tracks that keep dance floors
in delirium for hours and hours.
Support comes from Hibiya Line.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance is
free before 11pm and VND150,000 after.
For more info click on facebook.com/
theobservatoryhcmc. The Observatory is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Bloody Mary Competition

Pitchers Sports & Grill, Q7
Saturday, Feb. 28
Do you like your Bloody Mary
hot, sweet or sour? If you come to
Pitchers Sports & Grill we think
youll get a taste of everything.
Theyre hosting a competition split
into two groups; professional and
enthusiast at the end of the month.
Now, were pretty sure we know
what professional means, but
enthusiast? Sounds pretty loose to
us, but also a lot of fun.
A blind tasting by three judges

who will no doubt be open to
suggestions, will award points in
the categories of taste, presentation
and creativity. Pitchers will provide
Titos Vodka, Tabasco tomato juice
and ice everything else must be
brought by the applicant. So nows
your opportunity to show some flair
people! All applicants must be 18
years of age or over.
For an application form (were pretty
confident everyone gets in) send an
email to adam.zakharoff@gmail. Pitchers
Sports Bar & Grill is at C0.01 Riverside
Residence, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7,
HCMC or online at facebook.com/
PitchersPMH
Oliver Deutschmann
Observatory, Q4
Friday, Mar. 11
Vidab label boss and instigator
of Falkplatz, a series of 10 EPs all
more powerful than each other,
Oliver Deutschmann drags a cracker
reputation onto dance floors. Armed
with heavy techno and spinning
on the decks without compromise,
Oliver has established himself as
one of the spearheads of Berlins
renewal, regularly playing at Tresor
and Berghain.
Coming to Ho Chi Minh City with
Heart Beat, supporting will be OKO
(RUS) and Chris Wolter (GER) with
5
visuals from EROL (SWE).
Doors Open at 9pm with free entry
before 11pm. VND150,000 after 11pm.
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC
New Zealand Food and Wine

Festival
RMIT University, Q7
Mar. 12
Organisers are pleased to announce

that the New Zealand Wine and Food
Festival will return to RMIT University
in 2016 following its immensely
successful relaunch in 2015.
Featuring imported New Zealand
wines, and Kiwi style food from
seven leading Ho Chi Minh City
hotels, this evening is a chance to
enjoy New Zealands award-winning
produce while relaxing on the lawn
and listening to live music.
In 2015 the Festival donated over
VND100 million to the Ba Chieu
Home for Girls which provided
education and a safe environment
for 26 girls for one year. In 2016 the
Festival will again support Ba Chieu,
but will also donate funds to KOTO
to help underprivileged kids train in
hospitality.
For more information contact
eatdrinkgive2016@gmail.
com or check out facebook.com/
wineandfoodfestivalnewzealandhcmc
ToDo
list HCMC
1
this year?
For more information go to
saigonchildren.com/saigon-cyclochallenge-2016.aspx
Ladies Professional Golf

Championship
Can you ride a cyclo faster than the speed of light? Sure you can! At least, thats what the organisers of The Cyclo Challenge will be hoping
The worlds top female professional, Lydia Ko, will most likely not be playing at the first pro golf tournament for women in Vietnam,
2.
3.
The Roaring 20s

InterContinental Asiana Saigon,
Q1
Saturday, Mar. 19
but it doesnt take away from what will be a fantastic event
The BBGV turns 20, and to celebrate theyre putting on a themed 1920s party
1.
The Dalat at 1200 Country Club and

Private Estate, Dalat
Mar. 22 to Mar. 27
To mark the 20th anniversary

of the British Business Group of
Vietnam (BBGV), the UK-influenced
networking and business outfit will
be putting on a Roaring 1920s bash
at the InterCon. They are turning 20,
after all.
Top-end cuisine, lots of
entertainment and a dancing
competition will be part of the
affair, as will a 1920s dress code
and a prize draw that includes the
opportunity to win flights to Europe
or accommodation vouchers in
hotels and resorts.
Tickets cost VND2.5 million per
person. To book your space contact Nga
on nga.nguyen@bbgv.org or call (08)
3829 8430 Ext. 107
The Cyclo Challenge

Celadon City, Tan Phu, HCMC
Saturday, Mar. 19
Now in its 16th year, the Saigon
Cyclo Challenge remains one
of the most loved teambuilding
event in Ho Chi Minh City,

with all funds raised going to
help Saigon Childrens Charity
(SCC). Since its inception in 2001,
the Cyclo Challenge has raised
over US$720,000 to support
disadvantaged children and young
adults in Vietnam gain access to
education. Over 21,000 participants
from a wide range of companies
have taken part in the challenge to
date. Teams complete against each
other in a variety of races associated
with Vietnams most famous means
of transportation, the humble cyclo.
Who will take the (fortune) cookies
3
The first Ladies Professional Golf

tournament in Vietnam will take
place at The Dalat at 1,200 Country
Club & Private Estate in late March.
About 120 female professional
golfers from Korea, Taiwan, Australia,
Singapore, Hong Kong, China
and Vietnam, will compete for the
US$420,000 prize money following
a two-day Pro-Am. Televised live
across five countries for five hours a
day, the event is a huge opportunity
to increase international awareness
for the region.
Tang Kay Hwa, executive director
at The Dalat at 1200, said: As the
first professional ladies tournament
to be held in Vietnam, its a great
opportunity to increase interest
in the sport and showcase our
outstanding city.
For more information visit
dalat1200.com
overscene ho chi minh

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
byo night at vin gallery
Vin Gallery put on

a networking night
encouraging the Saigon public
to bring their own artwork
and business cards, which was

then all pinned to a communal
board.
PHOTOS BY CSABA MOLNR
saigon outcast farmer s market
The urban version of the

farmer, the artisan food and
drink maker, put on another
fun and interesting market
at Outcast. Not a hoe or scythe

in sight.
PHOTOS BY OWEN SALISBURY
Geisha Night at Sorae
Top-end Japanese restaurant,

Sorae, brought in its very own
geishas to complement the
Cuban cigar roller.
Perfect for lighting up the

night.
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage,
please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
IN
Just
HCMC
From digital
banks to
veterinary
clinics,
to Italian
restaurants.
All thats
new this
month in
Saigon
Raffles Singapore is one of the latest properties to be swallowed up by hotel management chain, Accor
No matter where youre visa card is issued, 30 restaurants in Vietnam are now offering discounts for anyone paying by card
Wine Embassy moves its bar and restaurant to District 2
1.
2.
3.
District 2 gets itself a new vet
Namo is the latest Italian restaurant to open in Saigon
Ms. Dcor is there to help you with all your interior design needs
4.
5.
6.
Accor Group Acquires More

Luxury
Global hotel group Accor has acquired
three iconic hotel brands in Fairmont,
Raffles and Swisstel in what they call
a strategic deal to create a worldwide
leader in the luxury segment.
This will now include a collection
of 155 hotel and resort assets, giving
the group unrivalled geographic
reach, growth potential and longterm value creation. No less than
His Excellency Sheikh Abdulla Bin
Mohammed Bin Saud Al-Thani,
CEO of Qatar Investment Authority,
which finances the group had this to
say: Since making our investment,
Fairmont Raffles Hotels International
has become a leading luxury
hotel company with an expanded
international presence. This deal
generates the scale needed to drive
the next phase of growth in our real
estate and hospitality investments.
Watch this space then!
You can visit an Accor Group Hotel in

Ho Chi Minh City. Novotel, The Pullman,
M Gallery, Mercure, Ibis and Sofitel are all
brands under the groups control.
Visa Dining Platform

Visa is offering its cardholders
exclusive offers at over 30 fine
dining and casual restaurants in
Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, with
discounts of up to 20 percent off the
total cost of their bills.
All Visa credit and debit
cardholders will be eligible for the
offer, regardless of which country their
card was issued in. The promotion is
live just in time for Lunar New year
and will run until Nov. 30, 2016.
Says Sean Preston, Visa Country
Manager for Vietnam, Cambodia,
and Laos: This deal is a fantastic
opportunity for diners to enjoy the
ease of paying with their Visa cards,
while receiving attractive discounts
at some of this countrys best known

and loved restaurants.
For the full list of participating
restaurants visit visa.com.vn/ap/vn/
personal/offers
Wine Embassy Relocates

Everyones favourite wine bar sent
us a note last month to let us know
that after three great years in 13
Ngo Duc Ke street, Wine Embassy
will be relocating after Tet into our
current Wine shop located on 41
Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2.
So there you go, now you know
because you read it in Word. As
for Wine Embassy, theyre looking
forward to serving you with the
same passion for wine and wine
experiences as they always have.
Feel free to contact them at info@
wineembassy.com.vn or pop into the
store at 41 Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC
4
6
5
Animal Doctors International

Just so that we know our pets are
all safe, new to the Thao Dien area
of District 2 is the Animal Doctors
International Clinic.
Specialising in high-quality
care for your two and four-legged
friends, ranging from diagnostics
with in-house x-rays and laboratory,
examinations, surgery and recovery,
the new veterinary clinic offers
assistance with preventative health
care, pet dentistry, traveling needs,
ticks and much more.
Animal Doctors International is at
1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2,
and is open from 9am to 8pm daily.
They also have 24/7 emergency services
and critical care available. For more
information visit animaldoctors.vn or
call (08) 6260 3980
Namo is at 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1,

HCMC or online at namo.pizza
Ms. Dcor
Founded by Spaniard Sonia A.S.
Hurlot with a passion for culture,
art, dcor, and the small details
in life, Ms. Dcor Design Studio
promises to guide your through all
your graphic design, art advisory,
and event planning needs.
With a blog available in English
and Vietnamese, they promise
to offer quality advice for home
decoration with tips on the latest
trends. Their focus on details means
that every project is planned in
depth and with total passion.
Ms. Dcor is at 216/24 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2 or online at ms-dcor.com
Namo
Timo
Namo, the contraction of a

Romanesco word for Lets go is
Saigons newest Neapolitan-style,
artisanal pizzeria. Replete with
a wood fired oven and two chefs
straight from Italy, a killer location
round the back of the Opera House
means its worth giving Namo a
visit. Not a big fan of pizza? Then
try their selection of pastas and
salads as well as their offering of
Italian wines.
Frustrated with queuing and

waiting at the bank? Ho Chi Minh
City has just welcomed a new form
of bank, Timo.
The first digital bank in Vietnam,
Timo offers a range of banking
services including ATM usage,
money transfer, bill payment,
mobile phone topups, savings and
deposit services. Aiming to give
comfort and convenience to clients,
Timo is set up under a caf serving
reasonable food and drinks and

also comes with a handy mobile
app. Located opposite Phan Dinh
Phung Stadium, the purple building
is a good place for you to hang out
with friends while managing and
controlling all your finance.
While drinks start from
VND40,000 for guests, people
banking with Timo get 50% discount.
Timo is at 194E Pasteur, Q3. For more
info visit timo.vn
Scott & Jeremys

Former restaurant Scott & Binhs
and La Fiesta have joined forces
with chef Jeremy from Slake
restaurant in Singapore to bring
a new restaurant called Scott &
Jeremys to town.
With cozy and simple decor,
Scott & Jeremys promises to give
the best American-style and Asian
fusion cuisine to local as well as
international diners. The menu
includes a wide range of options
from soups (from VND80,000)
to sandwiches (strating from
VND135,000), mains (from
VND180,000) and desserts (all cost
VND99,000).`
Scott & Jeremys is open from 4pm,
Tuesday to Sunday. The restaurant is at
40 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, HCMC. Check
out their daily happy hour deals
ToDo
listHanoi
Yoga, foosball tournaments, 3D
exhibitions,
book sales
and African
vinyl nights.
Theres
not all that
much going
on in Hanoi,
but theres
still enough
to keep you
busy
3D World
3D World will create a new, interactive exhibition experience for Hanoi
When it comes to DJing, Dan Lo knows how to make you (and himself) sweat
1.
2.
Hanoi Creative City, Hai Ba Trung

Until Apr. 17
3D World Magic & Fun is a unique
event with huge painted backdrops
and the visitor as the missing link.
He or she completes the scene by
carrying out some act, usually with
a funny note. Meanwhile friends or
family members take photographs
of the person performing and, being
Vietnam, upload them to wherelse
but Facebook.
A new exhibition created by
Belgian artist, Patrick Mortier, rather
than being just a passive viewer of
art, in this exhibition the art will
come to life allowing the viewer to
become part of the artwork itself.
With the majority of sets
consisting of scenes with animals,
other encounters include The
Minions, a game of tennis, becoming
a member of The Simpsons family,
and drinking coffee in a strange way.
The exhibition is open daily from 5pm
to 9pm (weekdays) and 10am to 9pm

(weekends) on the 5th Floor of Hanoi
Creative City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba
Trung, Hanoi. Entrance is VND50,000
(free for under-fours). For more info click
on 3DWorldVietnam.com
Dan Lo African Waves
Expect a lot of vinyl and powerful

sounds.
Entrance is VND50,000 and CAMA
ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Hanoi
Fashionista
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung

Friday, Feb. 19
InterContinental West Lake, Tay

Ho
Saturday, Feb. 20
Well-known DJ Dan Lo will be

bringing his West African Waves
set to CAMA ATK in an attempt to
submerge your souls in the vast
horizon of different sounds and
styles to emerge out of the region
over the last half century.
From traditional percussive
rhythms from Cameroon to the
1960s funky sounds from Ghana
and Benin, all the way to Nigerian
Afrobeat and its modern houseinfused edits, Dan Lo will be picking
them out of his collection with the
specific aim of making the room
dance.
InterContinental Hanoi Westlake is

introducing a brand new series of
events for fashion lovers in Hanoi.
Starting on Feb. 20, the elegant
setting of the Diplomat Lounge will
become a runway for contemporary
fashion and classic afternoon tea.
Savour a selection of tea, cake
and gourmet treats while being
treated to a glamorous parade that
showcases the latest collections by
two talented local fashion designers.
The price per person is
VND350,000++ and the event kicks
off at 3pm. The InterCon is at 1A Nghi
Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Europes No.1 in Water Technology
Made in Germany
Luscious water, silky hair, fluffy towels, crisp vegetables, glistening glasses,
bright bathrooms...
Provided to thousands of families and businesses by BWT in over 75
countries worldwide
www.bwt-vietnam.com
Vietnam's favourite
Brazilian restaurant.
,
DISHES
W
E
N
H
N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL.
OK AN
O
L
W
NE
Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC

238 Pasteur, Dist. 3
Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang

101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward
Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669
pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com
ToDo
listHanoi
Zenith Yoga was new classes starting this month for both kids and adults
Are you the Messi of the foosball world? Head to CAMAs completion on Feb. 22 and find out
Weekend Bookworm is holding a monster sale at the end of February
2.
3.
4.
1. Explore the world of metaphysical reality this month with Karen Gay
Metaphysically Speaking
Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
From Feb. 22
Learn about the forces behind such
concepts as Numerology, Colors,
Astrology, The 5 Elements, Energy
and Healing in an interactive,
hands-on series of workshops that
will allow you to take away skills
and knowledge of these energies
and apply them to your unique life
experience.
A six-week exploration of
metaphysical reality run by Karen
Gay, there will be two lots of
workshop sessions. The first will
start on Monday nights from Feb. 22,
from 7pm to 9pm, while the second
will commence on Wednesday Feb.
24, from 10am to 12pm. Both will run
until the end of March.
The course exchange fee is VND1.2
million per person and the workshops
take place at #24, Lane 9 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Each programme
will have from four to 12 participants.

For info, please email Karen Gay on
karenrmg@gmail.com
Yoga Classes and Passes

Zenith Yoga, Tay Ho
From Feb. 22
Let your kids experience yoga
through fun, interaction, breathing
exercises, yogic games, story
telling, yogic kundalini songs and
relaxation. A 10-week course put
together by Zenith Yoga will start
on Monday, Feb. 22 from 3.30pm to
4.15pm, and run until Apr. 25. The
courses are for two to four-year-olds
and the fee is VND1.8 million.
Also running at Zenith from
Mar. 4 until Jun. 26 is the Essential
Yoga Teacher Training Course 2016
with Marzena, the founder of the
establishment. To register your
interest, contact Marzena directly on
marzena@zenithyogahanoi.com.
And for anyone looking to
organize their yoga classes early this

year, Zeniths yearly pass will be
sold at a 30 percent discount until
Feb. 29.
Zenith Yoga is at 247B Au Co, Tay
Ho, Hanoi and 62 Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Table Football Competition

CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
Thursday, Feb. 25
ATKs irregular CAMA Cup kicks
back into action on the evening
of Thursday, Feb. 25 bringing the
mightiest of Hanois foosball talent
to the table.
Find a partner and send your team
name and contact details to info@
cama-atk.com by Tuesday, Feb. 22 at
the latest in order to secure a place.
First come, first served. The entrance
fee is VND100,000 per player. The
winners and runners-up take all.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
Once reserved exclusively for royalty,

tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanois Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.
Monster Book Sale

Weekend Bookworm, Tay Ho
Friday, Feb. 26 to Sunday, Feb.
28
After four years of successful
operation, the Weekend
Bookworm outlet in Nghi Tam
will succumb to the Kindle and
go into permanent hibernation at
the end of February.
To enable this, a monster sale
of quality steel shelving, books,
artworks and craftworks will take
place on the weekend of Feb. 26.
Kindlization has meant that not
enough secondhand books are
available to keep both the main
Bookworm location and the West
Lake location in full supply.
Bookworm will consolidate at 44
Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi and
continue to duel with the Kindle
as it has done since 2000. Weekend
Bookworm is at 1/28 Au Co, Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho
THE FRASER COLLECTION

BAHRAIN BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING BUDAPEST
CHENGDU DOHA DUBAI EDINBURGH GLASGOW
GUANGZHOU GURGAON HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY
HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR
LONDON MANILA MELBOURNE NANJING NEW DELHI
OSAKA PARIS PERTH SEOUL SHANGHAI
SHENZHEN SINGAPORE SUZHOU SYDNEY TIANJIN
WUHAN WUXI CHENNAI (2014) AL KHOBAR (2015)
FRANKFURT (2015) RIYADH (2014)
overscene hanoi
PHOTOS BY DUY KHANH
Stand-Up Comedy
Laughs and giggles came

to House of Son Tinh for
the last time courtesy of the
Hanoi Comedy Collective
and UK comic, Nik Coppin.

In future theyll be coming
to ATK.
PHOTOS BYDUY KHANH
Live Music at The Doors Pub
Growing in popularity, the

Doors Pub continued its
regular live music sessions.
Covers, covers and more
covers, but played with a

nice amount of flair.
West Lake co-working space

and caf, Spacebar, held a
night of acoustic music that
spread out into the alleyways

beyond.
talk at Doclab to discuss

documentary photography.
dj vadim
Legendary London-based
Russian DJ Vadim descended
on ATK. Packed to the
rafters, the turntablists
tunes shook the room to the

core.
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
Currently in Hanoi on
a Fulbright fellowship,
American photographer
Geoffrey Hiller gave a
down the lane
waterfall disco
With Hanoi in a cold spell,

the West Lake partygoing
crowd rocked up to Le Soleil
to get hot and sweaty. All
proving that in the capital,

who needs heating when
youve got Le Soleil?
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage,
please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
PHOTOS BY DUY KHANH
Geoffrey Hiller at Doclab
IN
Just
Hanoi
Its a
quiet
month
in Hanoi
this
February
Everyones favourite tailor clothes shop, Zeds Threads, finds itself a new location
Madake turns itself into the Vietnamese restaurant, Mau Dich 81
1.
2.
Zeds Threads Has Moved

If you think Zed is dead, then youre
wrong. Well-known Hanoi-based
tailors, Zeds Threads, has upped its
roots and moved to the main part of
To Ngoc Van in West Lake.
Now selling off-the-rack womens
clothing and also stocking fabrics
suitable for womens tailoring, this
adds to the Western and Asian fit
menswear that can either be tailored
or bought off the rack.
Zeds has also located their fairtrade workshop in the same space
the studio is behind the shop
on the same level. Customers are
welcome to visit.
Zeds Threads is at 36 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Hanoi and is open Monday to
Saturday from 8am to 5pm. For further
info click on zedsthreads.com
Madake Becomes Mau Dich 81

That late-night party and music
venue that we used to love is no
more. Instead, in an attempt to stop
all the fatigue owner Quang was
going to bed at 3am every night
theyve transformed themselves into
the second restaurant in the Mau
Dich chain (the first, if you didnt
know, is in the Truc Bach area of

town).
Boasting a pre-Doi Moi era
atmosphere with dcor to match,
the focus here is traditional Hanoian
and northern home-cooked cuisine.
Specialities include stir fried pickles
with salt and pig fat (VND35,000),
com chay (crispy rice in shaped
like a dome VND35,000) and
braised pork at VND65,000. Also
on the menu is a good selection of
vegetarian fare, tofu dishes, seafood,
salads and hotpots.
Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich 81 is
at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Insider
A Visual Storyteller / Thao Vu / A Short History of Thao Dien / F for Fashion / Helter Skelter / A beginer's Guide to
Motorcycle Maintenance / Setting a Benchmark / The Upper Crust / Chops / The Many Faces of Bun Cha / Le Terroir / Sui
Cao Chien / Going Deep / Making Tracks the Long Way / Notes From Another City / The Motorbike Diaries
Photo by Thiep Nguyen
Insider
MANY FACES
HCMC
A Visual Storyteller
From music bar owner to graphic designer to creative director
working in the fashion industry, Dzung Yoko is the ultimate creative,
someone who has successfully tried his hand at many things.
Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy. Portrait by Francis Xavier
am not into either fashion or

the people who work in the
fashion field. I didnt even know
who Dzung Yoko was when my
colleague mentioned him. She is
interested in his work and couldnt
stop talking about him in answer to
my question Who is he?
Meeting him at his shared M2C
caf on Dong Khoi, Dzung Yoko
looked younger than his 40 years.
Despite arriving in Saigon as a
young child, he still has a strong but
friendly Hanoi accent.
The Nickname
In the early 2000s, Yoko Caf &
Bar on Nguyen Thi Dieu became a
phenomenon. A pioneer of the live
rock caf and music bar industry,
the watering hole was named after
John Lennons wife, Yoko Ono. To
this day, portraits of Yoko survey all
parts of the bar.
I opened Yoko with a friend after
graduating from the Ho Chi Minh
City University of Architecture in
1998, says Dzung. But I sold it a
long time ago.
His admiration for Yoko Ono and
the name of his bar caused the name
Dzung Yoko to stick. It gets printed
in his credit in Vietnams version
of Elle Magazine and now LOfficiel,
where he holds the position of
creative director.
The Final Passion

After graduation, Dzung Yoko spent
a year working in architecture.
He even took on a teaching job,
but eventually moved away from
it because he couldnt find any
inspiration.
I just couldnt like it, he recalls.
I couldnt feel the passion for it.
So I dropped teaching. My friends
and family didnt get it, they tried
to stop me.
Graphic design was his next
move.
It was something better, he
says. It gave him more room for his

imagination to shine. Although he
created 20 album covers for popular
Vietnamese singers, he didnt
receive recognition until the release
of the 2004 album My Nhan Ngu by
singer My Le.
I still couldnt find the final
passion, he says. It was a job that
relied on clients demands more than
I wanted. In 2012, Vietnams Elle
came to me and offered me a job. I
took it.
He adds: My job is creating
concepts for fashion shoots I
I want viewers
to consider fashion
as an art form
and people who
work in the field as
artists
sketch them out. I can sketch
whatever I want and I really like
that feeling. I think I have found
my calling.
Unexpected Projects
After 15 years working in the
graphic design and fashion
industries, Dzung had his
inaugural solo exhibition last July.
Considered to be the first fashion
photo exhibition in Vietnam, it was
a collection of his best photos, best
album covers and achievements
over the last 15 years, with the
original sketches sat next to the
final products. The exhibition also
included new artworks that he and
his team had gone to a lot of effort
to put together.
It was never planned, says
Dzung. A friend just came

and asked me if I want to do an
exhibition. I quite liked the idea so
I did it.
His first book was not planned,
either. Published in January 2016
with a print run of 2,000 copies, the
200-page book, Daydreamers, is a
four-year collaboration of dozens
of people including well-known
Vietnamese fashion designers,
photographers and models. Looking
at the copy lying on the table, it
reminds me of Alice in Wonderland.
I think people who work
in the fashion field are usually
daydreamers, says Dzung.
People say fashion is expensive
and fake, so only daydreamers can
work in fashion.
The Message
Now working as the creative
director of Vietnam LOfficiel,
Dzung has to get five fashion
shoots completed every month.
Thats not counting the magazines
product shoots, other freelance
jobs and his caf. He is in charge
of every stage of the process, from
generating ideas to sketching
it out, styling the shoot and
supervising the retouch to make
the final perfect product.
Yes, I am busy as hell, he says,
but Im happy with that as I can feel
the love and passion for the work
running through my veins.
I asked him what he wanted to
convey to people through his fashion
artwork.
I want viewers to consider
fashion as an art form and people
who work in the field as artists.
Beautiful outfits express their
designers taste, creativity and
uniqueness; therefore, they deserve
to be honoured as works of art. So
my role is helping people gain a
multidimensional view and feel the
soul of each fashion product through
my visual stories.
Insider
MANY FACES
NATIONAL
Thao Vu
spinning, dyeing and weaving the various

fabrics, and she knows who they are and
what they do at every step of the process.
Her connection to every part of this process
shows her passion for her work, resulting in
a very close relationship with everything she
makes.
Adapting
One of the few designers in Vietnam to have her clothes

sold overseas, the founder of Kilomet 109 mixes the
textiles of this countrys ethnic minorities with a
modern-day, sustainable approach to fashion.
Words by Kate Robinson. Portrait by Julie Vola
hao Vu is the sort of woman

people look up to elegant in
an unstudied, natural way, used
to getting things done but also
unhurried, taking the time to get things
done right. When we arrived at her
house/studio, she welcomed us warmly
and ushered us into the living room.
Every object in the house revealed her
good taste; her green tea, her furniture,
her beautiful wood floors, and of course,
her clothing, which is almost more art
than fashion.
Kilomet 109 is a sustainable clothing
brand created and designed by Thao, who
first got into sewing when she was 10 years
old.
Many Vietnamese girls were told to
sew I didnt see it as a career at all, she
says. Later on, I worked for newspapers
and magazines that focused on Vietnamese
culture. Through opportunities to get to
know my own culture at a deeper level, my
interest in the arts started coming back.
I took a fashion design course at the
London Fashion College in Hanoi, and
worked for a couple of international brands
after I graduated before starting my own
brand.
A Sustainable Approach
Thaos studio contains a rack of traditional
costumes from ethnic minority groups,
which she collects and uses as inspiration
for her own designs. She showed us one of
her pieces that was displayed in the Hanoi
Museum of Fine Arts; a long white coat
made from a blanket that is over 100 years
old. The blanket itself was made from fibres

of the bark of the rare Sui tree, and Thaos
coat is embroidered loosely with silver birds
and colourful hanging threads.
In her studio we also found piles of raw
and dyed silk, organic cotton, the dried nuts
to make the soap with which she washes her
fabrics, as well as leaves from the plants she
uses to dye the cloth, giving them gorgeous,
subtle colours. Thao uses a wide variety
of natural materials for buttons and other
trimmings, including nuts, wood, coal, stone,
bamboo and bone. Her conscientious efforts
to be completely sustainable are impressive
in an industry famous for its lack of social or
environmental awareness.
A Journey
The name Kilomet 109 comes from the
distance between Thaos home province of
Thai Binh and Hanoi. She chose it because
it reflects the type of customers she has in
mind travellers who need their dress to be
both fashionable and flexible. The clothes are
simple, yet sophisticated and stylish, and can
be worn in many different ways, allowing
her customers to pack only a few versatile
pieces for any trip.
[The name implies] a movement,
a journey, Thao says. Its also a
measurement, which relates more directly to
what I do.
For over five years, she has worked
with four different ethnic groups (Dao,
Nung, Muong and Thai) from the northern
mountains of Vietnam to produce the textiles
she uses in her designs. Each ethnic minority
performs different parts in growing,
It took Thao four-and-a-half years to design

and launch her first line of clothing, which
taught her a lot about adapting traditional
fabric-making techniques for use in the
modern world. Originally, for simplicitys
sake, Thao wanted only one ethnic group to
grow and produce everything she needs.
I tried to stick with one group, but it was
unfeasible. In 2009, I developed a range of
indigo colours on my own, and then I asked
my Nung ladies in Cao Bang Province to dye
my colours with their traditional techniques.
They told me it was impossible, then tried
anyway. But the colours turned out to be a
disaster. They gave up. I was bummed.
I realised that changing the tradition
which had existed for thousands of
years was like trying to move Fansipan
Mountain... its better to adapt their
techniques, learn and develop from them,
but also respect their traditions. Slowly, we
created a number of exciting colour ranges,
using all-natural dyes from indigo, yam and
magenta plants.
So Thao stopped bringing outside
techniques to different ethnic groups,
which she finds challenging in its own
way; it spreads her business around and
complicates the supply chain.
Keeping it Natural
Since its first clothing launch in 2012,
Kilomet 109 has done well. Clothes
designed by Thao are sold at Module 7 on
Xuan Dieu in Hanoi, as well as at boutique
stores in Berlin and Portugal. Her latest
ecologically-friendly collection, Seed, was
successfully launched at Manzi Art Space
last December, and featured not only
organic fabrics but also natural dyes and
beeswax batik prints.
Thaos other new line of clothing is
more dressy, and requires fabrics that are
impossible for her suppliers to produce in
Vietnam. She imports these from sustainable
producers in Hong Kong, Thailand and
Japan. Although she hopes to eventually be
able to produce everything here, she says it
is a hugely ambitious goal.
For now, she is focused on designing more
pieces and expanding her business by selling
to stores in Saigon, the rest of Vietnam, and
all over the world. Although it might take a
while to do things right, I have no doubt that
Thaos beautiful clothing will go far.
Insider
INSIDER
HCMC
A Short History
of Thao Dien
From sleepy north-ofSaigon backwater to a new

city, the expat area of
Thao Dien has developed
beyond recognition. Words
and Photos by Nick Ross
iang is taking me on a tour of

Thao Dien. But were not doing a
whos who of the wealthy expat
area of Saigon that we know
today. This is the Thao Dien of the past,
one that has gone from being a small
outpost on the other side of the Saigon
River to a new hub on the edge of Saigon.
According to paperwork on display in
the 80-year-old Thao Dien Temple on Street
41, the hamlet was originally called Ich Phu.
Established in 1852, after the arrival of the
French it was incorporated into the newly
formed province of Bien Hoa. That was in
the 1860s. In 1893, boundaries were once
again redrawn. This time Ich Phu found
itself integrated into the newly formed
district of Thu Duc. Accessible only by boat
until the 1961 completion of the Saigon
Bridge, no-one quite knows when the name
Ich Phu was lost by the time Giang
moved there in 1973, it was already a name
of the past.
There was no highway, he recalls of
his early days in the area. When you came
It took about 40
minutes to get here
on a motorbike from
District 1, through
small villages and
streets which are now
the highway, across a
single lane bridge and
then into Thao Dien
Road which was a
roughly paved road up
to the compound
over the bridge you had to turn left. Then

the road wound round what is now Duong
38 until it stopped at Thien Nga Swimming
Pool. People who came over the bridge only
came for the swimming pool.
Set in what is now the Thien Nga
Compound at 78 Xuan Thuy, we go inside
and walk round the back. Shaped like a
swan thien nga means swan in Vietnamese
the pool is still there 40 years later, except
that now its part of the compound. Some of
the buildings next to the pool are from the
pre-1975 period, but most are newly built.
The only age-old remnant is the ancient
banyan tree sitting at the entrance to the
pool.
Most of the hawkers who came to this

area would walk over the bridge and come
to the swimming pool, he adds. This was
where you could get your street food.
42 Years and Counting

Like millions of citizens of 20th century
Eastern and Central Europe, Giang has seen
his fair share of changing boundaries. After
the war An Phu Ward was created to cover
the area we now know as Thao Dien and An
Phu Thao Dien itself was given the name
Thanh Binh. In 1997 the boundaries were
changed once again. The ward of Thao Dien
was created, Thanh Binh was lost and the
district of Thu Duc was divided into District
The problem is that much of Thao Dien is built on former mangrove

When all the natural waterways have been built upon and disrupted,
where will the water go?
2, District 9 and Thu Duc.
When Giang first arrived, the peninsula
that now forms Thao Dien was divided into
settlements. Lang Bao Chi, or the media
village, stood on the east side. Next door
was Lang Ngan Hang, the banking village,
which in the late 1980s was converted into
the An Phu Superior Compound (APSC).
To the southeast stood Cu Xa Canh Sat,
a development inhabited by the citys

police, and right next door on what is now
the streets of Nguyen Cu, Do Quang and
Nguyen Van Huong was the Cu Xa Bo Ngoai
Giao, an area housing people who worked
for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
In between the various settlements were
fields because of all the flooding, it was
always difficult to grow crops here, says
Giang and a network of mangroves and

canals known then as Rach Dua. This forms
much of todays area that floods at high tide.
Unlike elsewhere on the non-Saigon side of
the river, most of the peninsula was deemed
safe the US Army had a huge warehouse
just at the bottom of the bridge.
However, it was only in the mid-1990s that
foreigners unable to afford the villa rental
Most of the houses have already been knocked down, raised or

rebuilt. The problem with the land here is the flooding. It makes the
land unstable, and constantly moving
in APSC, an area originally constructed for
employees of BP, were allowed to live in
houses outside of the compound. By the late
1990s new houses started being built. Now
the desire to build is in overdrive.
In Search of History
After leaving Thien Nga Compound we go
in search of old houses.
Drive slowly, says Giang, Ill spot them
immediately. The really old houses are the
ones that have sunk into the ground. All the
others have been built up much higher.
The first we come across are in the
Nguyen Cu area of Thao Dien. Lying below
street level, one house still has its old
address signage up from right after the war
1014A Khu Thanh Binh. With a tiled front
and iron window detailing typical of 1960s
Saigon, it looks like its about to be either
repaired or knocked down.
Most of the houses have already been
knocked down, raised or rebuilt, explains
Giang. The problem with the land here is
the flooding. It makes the land unstable, and
constantly moving.
I see the results of this one road down on
the narrow section of Nguyen Van Huong.
One house has sunken so low into the
ground that you can see quite clearly where
the water level rises.
It happens every autumn, right? I say to
one of the residents.
No, he says. Its happening right now.
This is the flooding season.
Both he and Giang point out a concrete
barrier that has been built to fend off water
from the street.
Does it work? I ask.
Not really.
Next door in a Quan Com Binh Dan a
cheap rice restaurant they take me inside
and show me cracks in the wall. Because of
the flooding and the land, the foundations
are unstable.
We want to repair it, says one of the
inhabitants, but its too expensive. The only
way to do it properly is to knock the whole
house down and start again.
It reminds me of a house I used to rent
nearby in the former mangrove area of
Rach Dua. It had gaping fissures in one of
the outside walls, and so unstable were the
foundations that the floor in the lounge was
sloping inward. When we moved out we
cited bad architecture as a reason for finding
other accommodation. But the problem is
that much of Thao Dien is built on former
mangrove. Like Thanh Da Island next door,
its sinking.
It makes me wonder about all the new
developments that are sprouting up in the
area. Will they, too, have foundation issues?
I do know that the developers in nearby
Thu Thiem are raising the land by 3 metres
to prevent flooding. But this leaves another
problem. When all the natural waterways
have been built upon and disrupted, where
will the water go? You just need to look
at the 2011 floods in Bangkok, a city also
constructed on mangrove. A bout of nonstop heavy rain caused the Thai capital to be
flooded for weeks.
In the Phu My Hung area of Ho Chi Minh
City, another district built on reclaimed
swamp, it has meant cracks in the sidewalk
and tarmac as land moves around beneath
all the concrete and water searches for a
place to flow. Mangrove roots help stabilize
the land and prevent soil in unsteady areas
from breaking down, yet take them away
and the land starts to fall apart, no matter
how much concrete you put on top. This is
why mangroves are now being replanted all
around the world to stop coastal erosion.
First In
When the co-founder of The Deck and
Mekong Merchant Anna Craven-SmithMilnes made the transition to Thao Dien in
2000, she moved into a house at the end
of a very muddy road. Together with her
partner, Lawson Johnson, she still lives in
the same property.
Lawson moved to Thao Dien in 1993
to live in the Lang Bao Chi area, she
says. It took about 40 minutes to get here
on a motorbike from District 1, through
small villages and streets which are now
the highway, across a single lane bridge
and then into Thao Dien Road which was
a roughly paved road up to the [APSC]
compound. Everything off Thao Dien was
dirt track.
Thao Dien at the turn of the century was
a very different place to the one we know
now, the one that during rush hour comes
to a near standstill. According to Anna, the
area was quiet and charming with no shops
except the An Phu Supermarket. Most of
the land on either side of Thao Dien Road
was undeveloped and the area after Lang
Bao Chi was paddy fields and scrubland,
all the way around to the Saigon Bridge.
The loop that has become Nguyen Van
Huong didnt exist.
Lang Bao Chi was full of Vietnamese
journalists, she adds. It had a very cute
and quaint feel to it a very friendly and

quiet neighbourhood.
Her permanent attachment to Thao
Dien started in 2002 with the opening
of Mekong Merchant. Starting off as a
furniture shop, with three small tables at
the back for weekend breakfasts, in 2005
she transformed it into a full-blown caf.
This was followed by the opening of The
Deck in 2007, which was converted from
a run-down coffee shop into a restaurant
and bar.
To begin with people thought we
were mad, she says. But gradually they
came The biggest challenge when we first
opened was trying to convince our friends
to stay in Thao Dien for dinner. They were
not used to this and if they went out, it was
always into District 1. Now there are more
than 30 restaurants locally and going into
District 1 for dinner is a bit of an effort.
A Brighter Future?
Its not just standalone restaurants and
fast food chains that have entered the area.
Shopping malls, supermarkets, a soon-tobe-completed metro line and high-rises are
also sprouting up. The latest addition is the
new Vincom Mega Mall. Set on the main
highway next to the Masteri, a soon-tobe-completed apartment block complex, it
represents everything that this area aspires
to modern, trendy, consumerist and new.
It comes with a top-floor ice rink, a wellpopulated food court and its own cinema
complex.
Next door in An Phu, newly built areas
have sprouted up and as I write, Tran
Nao Street is being raised one metre and
widened into a highway. Further on is
Thu Thiem, where developers are in the
early stages of building a new city directly
opposite the CBD in downtown Saigon.
Like much of Thao Dien and Phu My
Hung, the development is being built on
mangrove.
With Thu Thiem, An Phu and Thao
Dien located so close to the city centre, it
makes logical sense to build Ho Chi Minh
City out to the north, an area that due to
the swamps has for the last 150 years been
widely ignored. Yet its not something that
excites the likes of Giang.
When we start talking about the past
his eyes light up, his smile widens and
his body becomes more animated. His
memories are nostalgic yet tinged with
sadness. In a few years time this area will
never quite be the same.
Cover Story
F for Fashion
At the turn of the millennium, everyone in Vietnam seemed to
dress the same. Fast forward 15 years and people have developed
some style. So with all the international brands in town, wheres
it all heading? Words by Nick Ross
night out in the big city will reveal one

irrefutable fact; women in Vietnam know
how to dress. Look around at the men in this
country and they, too, are starting to put on
the style.
This is not something new the Vietnamese woman
has always been expected to be beautiful. Etched into
their psyche with four words, cong dung ngon hanh, or
work hard, look beautiful, be a skilful talker and know
how to create a happy family, the outward visage of the
traditional Vietnamese woman has always had a focus
on beauty.
With global fashion making its way to Vietnam,
greater spending power has affected what people wear.
Naturally, people in this country dress much better than
in the past.
People are definitely more stylish, says Paul
Norriss, COO and director of garment manufacturer,
Un-Available. The outside influence from the internet
and music is very apparent and in the 12 years Ive been
here Ive seen big changes in whats acceptable. Younger
generations are much more daring and want to be seen
to be pushing the boundaries. This is mainly in the big
cities, while outside of that its still a little way behind.
Yet, although people are catching up real quick,
says well-known model and celebrity, Vu Ha Anh, the
majority [of people here] have not developed styles or
taste.
She adds: There is a lack of menswear brands and
our perception is men dont need to look good, they just
need to be smart. I think its not generally true these
days, and particularly in business. Everyone needs to
have a certain style and dress code to impress their
employers, colleagues, partner and friends.

Says Paul, Whats missing is true contemporary
fashion for the middle classes the cool working
professionals. But international brands cant offer this as
price-wise they are too high.
At the Mall
Its the January sales and many of the well-known

brands in the Crescent Mall in Ho Chi Minh City
Accessorize, Aldo, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Ecco, Guess,
Mango, Nike, Tommy Hilfiger and Vans are offering
discounts. Naturally, sales attract customers and despite
being mid-week, mid-afternoon, the mall is busy.
Contrast this to 18 months ago. Then, even during the
sales, except at the weekends the mall never quite filled
up. When it did, the majority of the customers would
window shop before heading to the upper floors to eat in
the food court. Now they are starting to spend.
This is something confirmed by Emrat
Rungruangwitchakul, the head of British clothing store,
Marks & Spencer (M&S). And its something I notice
when I interview her in the outlet in the Crescent Mall.
The place is busy and shoppers arent just browsing.
Targeting middle and high-class people aged
mainly between 25 and 40, M&S is aware of the problem
that people are still into traditional markets, says
Emrat, who worked in retail in Thailand before moving
to Vietnam.
The spending power here is different and this is a
new country, so customers here are more concerned
about price.
While many of the international brands try to position
themselves at the upper end of the market a quick
walk around Gap and Next, two clothing stores I know

well from the UK, shows that prices are 30 percent to
40 percent higher than in London M&S has taken
a different route. Prices in Vietnam are lower than the
UK, and more competitive even than in Thailand and
Singapore.
I want the brand to be affordable first, then lets see
the feedback, explains Emrat. Because if you set the
price too high at the beginning, then the perception of
the customer will be affected and they wont buy. So, I
prefer to lower the prices, give the brand a luxury feel
and make the customers feel like this is something they
can afford. Affordable luxury.
As she says this we look around at the price tags. I
spot an M&S leather jacket for women it costs just
under VND3 million, or GBP90 in the UK. Its actually
cheaper than the equivalent local brand jacket available
in leatherwear shops in Hanoi. And of course, the
quality is far better.
Another reason for keeping the prices affordable is
to try and make inroads into the well-off Vietnamese
market, to attract the kind of customers who do most of
their clothes shopping overseas.
Now new brands are entering the country, this will
change a lot, says Emrat. All of the fashion brands are
trying to find ways to engage Vietnamese customers.
So what Im trying to do is say that if you buy here, its
cheaper than buying overseas.
A Matter of Price
The issue with price, where certain brands sell lowend clothing in the West but are seen as mid-range in
Vietnam, is something that Paul Norriss believes makes
this a strange market.

Mid-range depends on numerous things, and one
of those is price point, he explains. So whereas Gap
and Topshop are low-end clothing in the West, due to
price point and quality here they are seen as mid-range
clothing. The prices are more expensive due to import
taxes, and of course average incomes in Vietnam are
lower, making them more expensive to the average
citizen.
For him the answer is for Vietnam to start creating its
own brands, to develop its own fashion lines that can
compete internationally on style and price with the big
players. Its a tough call, but its desperately needed.
Its going to need a local design house to come to the
party, he says. What we need in Vietnam is an edgy
local brand with worldwide influence thats produced
locally but with international standards. Its the only
way to hit the price and still be forward enough in terms
of style and quality.
Ha Anh agrees but points out an issue. Costs.
Local designers struggle in business because
even though they are very talented, theres a lack of
quality fabric and accessories available, she explains.
Their production costs are too high and therefore their
products are not price competitive.
Which all leads this country to an interesting
impasse. The fashion industry has improved beyond all
recognition. Yet, to move onto the next stage, the local
designers need to step up and the luxury price issue
needs to be overcome.
It will happen because Vietnam loves fashion and
Vietnamese women love to look beautiful. The question
is when.
The Next
Generation of
Designers
Whether Vietnamese or foreign, this country is home to a new
generation of clothes designers. We profile four.
Louise Bach-Mogensen
O-Thala
85 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An
o-thala.com
riginally from Denmark, Louise BachMogensen has called Vietnam her home for
the past 16 years, after falling in love with the
country while travelling here after university.
Though Vietnam has captured her heart, Louise
has found a way to honour her love of her two homes
through her fashion label O-Thala, named after an old
rune from Viking times that signifies a return to the
sacred land. Her designs for O-Thala are about finding a
blend between Scandinavian minimalism and simplicity
with the detail and intricacy of traditional Vietnamese
embroidery and beading.
Louise has not always been a designer, but has been
a closet artist since she was able to pick up a pencil or
paintbrush. Ive always been fascinated by human
bodies and movement, recalls Louise. When I decided
to move into fashion design it was a fairly easy move,
I just drew on my passion for humans and put clothes
onto them.
Many dream of what Louise has managed to
achieve with O-Thala in managing to turn her creative
hobby and passion into her profession, helped by her
background in sales and marketing.
Louise finds inspiration everywhere; she recently
saw a Bjorn Wiinblad illustration that triggered a print,
and it is the little ideas like these that start sprinkling in
slowly in her day-to-day life. The beading on a shirt
in the collection was created after I saw water running
down glass just being exposed to visuals can help you
create, says Louise.
The pieces Louise designs often have complex
beading and fabric work, but she has a production team
of six people who help her develop her work.
Some of the beading for one piece alone can take up
to two days to complete, says Louise about this hard
but rewarding work. Sin Kavanagh
Ella Henry
Ella Henry Designs

ella-henry.com
his 23-year-old designer seems to have a

permanent smile from ear to ear that is
contagious to everyone around her. Ella has
always been a designer, and obsessed with fashion,
but since graduating from the University for the
Creative Arts in London, England, she has been
focusing her efforts on developing Ella Henry, the
brand.
Ella uses inspiration from her time spent in India,
Brunei, Bali and Vietnam to cultivate her line, consisting
of swimwear and silk cover-ups. Her pieces offer
simplicity in her garment design, while she uses colour
and print to add a vibrant complexity to the collection,
with a mix of free-flowing, dream-like patterns.
Ho Chi Minh City has proved to be a source of
inspiration for Ella and her print making, as she draws
from the contrasts the city has to offer.
You can tell that Ho Chi Minh City is a [place] on the
brink of explosion, says Ella. Its like London would
have been in the 1980s, just filled with opportunity.
Since moving to Vietnam last year, Ella has been
finding the balance between the thrill of life in Saigon
and the fear that can accompany it as well.
The designs Im working on now involve more
intricate prints with a depth of colour cut with harsher
lines and intense shapes, its all about working with
the frequency of [Ho Chi Minh City], says Ella. Its
easy to spot Ellas use of expressionism in her pieces, as
well as her influences from designers such as Vivienne
Westwood, Matthew Williamson and Alexander
McQueen.
At only 23, Ella recalls her parents encouraging her
from a young age to create and feel inspired, with her
childhood home filled with furniture made by her mum
and a wardrobe filled with clothes made by her as well.
I would help her pick the fabrics for my clothes and
I always had the most colourful and craziest outfits I
loved it.
Drawing further inspiration from Vivienne Westwood
and her ethical fashion initiative, Ella believes that is
an approach that is preferable to the fast fashion that
has become the norm in mainstream outlets.
We need to take a step back and slow down the
manufacturing process in order to address some of the
issues we face today, she says.
Fashion has the power to make you feel magical, but
that magic should also come from within yourself to
begin with, says Ella.
After seeing her designs I could definitely imagine
anyone feeling magical while wearing them. Sin
Kavanagh
Thuy Nguyen
Thuy Design House

132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC
thuydesignhouse.com
hat stands out most in 34-year-old Thuy

Nguyens designs is their vibrance. The
women who wear her clothes are not afraid
to be seen rather, they revel in being walking
works of art, their bodies complemented by a design
that prioritises comfort and chromatic patterns that
imbue confidence.
A classically trained painter with a Masters in Fine
Art, its no surprise that Thuy treats her fabric like
canvas. She keeps the lines of her garments simple and
clean, so the eye has space to dance across her intricate
designs. Combining age-old Vietnamese techniques like
brocade silver or gold thread woven into silk to give
the illusion of embroidery with retro designs like the
1960s-era shift dress and modern fabrics like denim,
Thuy melds history and youth to create wearable art.
The difference between fashion and fine art, she
explains, is fashions emphasis on materials. Where art
is abstracted and focused on creating a visceral response
from the viewer, clothing is practical and relies on
movement. If being a painter gives me unrestrained
feelings, fashion brings me back to the realistic world. It
provides lessons about body language and how to turn
personal stories into applicable designs, says Thuy.
Her latest line of garments, titled Lung Lieng, was
inspired by the work of Vietnamese painters like Le Pho
and Tran Van Can, who used block colour and heavy
brushwork to depict graceful women, floral imagery
and scenes from rural life. Fashion enthusiasts in Ho Chi
Minh City had the chance to watch this collection walk
the runway last fall at Vietnam International Fashion
Week 2015. Designer fashion is still a relatively new
concept in Vietnam, and this show was only the second
of its kind in the country. Being a part of events like this
puts Thuy at the centre of a quickly growing industry.
Use your passion to overcome barriers in your
career, Thuy advises the hopeful young designers
among us. And set specific goals to nurture the
motivational fire in you. Jesse Meadows
Nguyen Duy Thanh
SINE
14 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
facebook.com/sinestore
hen I met Hanoi native Nguyen Duy Thanh,

I thought perhaps he had stumbled in off the
streets of Berlin, linear tattoos covering the
backs of his hands, dressed head to toe in sweeping
black. His floor-length linen skirt brushed the tops of
his leather boots; a button at his clavicle pinned the
simple Chinese-style collar underneath his black coat,
hiding the rest of the geometric tattoos that climbed
up his neck. He looked like a monk in vogue.
A dancer and choreographer for 14 years, the 27-yearolds work is rooted in movement; his first designs
were for his own dance costumes. Frustrated at the way
he saw young people embracing Western trends and
abandoning Asian culture, he decided the best way he
could keep ancient traditions current was by weaving
them into contemporary designs that young people
would want to wear.
Thanh has a penchant for dramatically draped linen.
The more crumpled it is, the more beautiful, he
says, showing me the texture of the wrinkles in his skirt,
one of his many unisex designs.
There is little colour in his work, save for the odd
accent of dark red or yellow. While he says he prefers
black for its versatility, class, and depth of emotion, his
choices are not only stylistic. There is no good or bad in
black and white, he says, just balance. This idea stems
from the Chinese philosophy of Taoism, which stresses
the necessary balance between positive and negative
forces to achieve harmony.
Beauty can come from something ugly, he explains.
The simplicity of these designs emphasises their
grace. As I watched him move, I found myself wanting
to glide along in that mysterious flowing skirt, and
bring the linen to life with my limbs. Young people,
especially in Hanoi, Thanh explains, dont dare to show
their personalities. He hopes his dynamic clothing can
empower the youth to show more of themselves and
grow in new directions, while still remembering their
roots. Jesse Meadows
Shopping
Second-hand
In a country where people love all that is new, shopping for

second-hand clothes is making a comeback. Jesse Meadows heads
to the second-hand clothes market and together with two wilful
aides-de-camp comes away with a new outfit. Photos by Julie Vola
he plan was simple: three girls find three

outfits in Hanois second-hand clothes market.
There was Kate, who, in her baggy brown
t-shirt and plaid pleated pants, was in need of
a serious makeover; Le, polished and office-ready but
in search of something more casual; and me, who had
no idea what I was looking for, but was certain Id
know it when I saw it. But as we began our descent
into the second-hand underworld, I realised it wasnt
going to be so easy.
Located on Dong Tac Street, the entrance is marked
by clothes racks that flank a long hall, creating a dim
passageway that leads into a labyrinth of old dusty
gems. Rows and rows of jackets, sweaters and fur
coats hung all around us, neglected in the warmth of a
Hanoi winter that barely came. I started to sweat just
looking at them. Kate was instantly taken by the idea
of a bad-ass leather jacket, and it didnt take long until
I found one for her soft, black and real leather, too.
The shopkeepers wanted VND700,000, but we wavered
until they dropped the price to VND500,000. Our first
successful purchase made, we ventured deeper into the
maze.
Rummaging
This type of shopping is not for the faint of heart. If

you dont like the idea of sifting through piles of musty
old clothes, trying on those old clothes in the corner
of an open-air stall with just a friend or half a curtain

to hide behind, and bartering aggressively, maybe
stick to the shiny new malls that youre used to. But, if
you can endure these less-than-pleasant aspects of the
experience, you will be rewarded. There are treasures
hidden in those dusty racks.
I wandered away from the group and saw a stall that
was drowning in flowery fabrics and breezy dresses.
When I stepped over the piles of clothes to look at
them, the lady of the house picked up a red plastic
stool and hollowed out a place for me sit. I began to dig
excitedly through the mountains of fabric around me,
several young Vietnamese girls nearby also fervently
excavating. Id been having trouble finding things to fit
my tall curvy frame, so when I fished a long red polkadotted dress out of the pile and it fit perfectly, I bought
it for VND125,000, even though it was not particularly
my style.
When I found the girls again, they were playing
dress-up in another little stall nearby. Le had found
a suede, olive-coloured dress reminiscent of an ao dai
(VND150,000), and Kate had classed up her leather
jacket with a grey pencil skirt (VND70,000) and a white
blouse (VND70,000).
The shopkeeper, a 27-year-old named Mai, watched us
in mild amusement. We asked her how long shed been
working in her stall. Twenty years. It was my mothers
before, she replied in broken English.
The Source
Mai explained that the winter clothes come from China,

Japan and South Korea, but for summer wear, she
goes to Phnom Penh to buy clothes wholesale, picking
and choosing what she likes from giant plastic bags.
Many of these clothes were sent to Cambodia as aid
by the Swedish International Development Agency,
and became known as hang SIDA. As this acronym is
also the French word for AIDS, second-hand clothes in
Vietnam have suffered a morbid reputation. Judging by
the amount of traffic at the market, though, it seems that
these negative connotations are subsiding.
All kinds of people shop here, Mai told us, and
pointed at a woman who was collecting dresses from the
rack. She is choosing for her own shop.
Many of Hanois boutique owners come to the market
to find unique pieces, then turn round and resell them in
the city for double the price. But we have no need for the
middleman anymore weve found the source. And as
45 minutes had become three hours, we began to weave
through the dark corridors again, this time on a hunt for
the exit.
Where To
Shop When
Youre
Western-Sized
S
Cant get clothes that fit?

Sin Kavanagh and Jesse Meadows have some answers
hopping in Vietnam can be a sad experience for

Westerners. Were generally just too big for storebought clothes, which leaves the options of going
to a tailor or, it is rumoured, buying black-market
items siphoned off from export orders.

It is getting slightly easier to find Western-sized clothes
in Hanoi, at least, but the shopping struggle in Ho Chi
Minh City remains.
Things of Substance
Zeds Threads
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem
estled between a pho ga shop and a handbag store,

this little boutique is perfect if you need some
smart clothes for the office, or a few versatile, wellmade basics. Founded in 2006 by Australian designer
Simmone Fairhead, the brand features silk, cotton
and linen attire for women, in mostly solid colours.
Sizes range from 6 to 18, with most tops around
VND190,000, dresses at VND620,000, and bulkier
items like sweaters nearing VND900,000. The shop
also features a tailor in-house, who will happily alter
any purchases free of charge.
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
ong have the Western men of Hanoi lamented a

lack of quality work shirts. Now Zeds Threads
is here, with sizes all the way up to triple XL. The
little tailor shop has recently begun to make womens
and childrens clothes, too, all 100% cotton. The
staff is friendly and eager to help, and much of their
business centres around tailor-made attire for the
working adult. Prices start around VND400,000 and
can climb to VND2 million depending on the piece.
We also spotted a rack of hip sunglasses and a quirky
jewellery collection.
Hanoi
Rico
Emporium
43 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
his is one of those small boutiques that sources

trendy garb from the likes of Forever 21 and Zara
think flowery crop tops and tribal bustiers. Its
not ideal for the plus-sized among us, but most of
the stuff should fit your average white girl. It feels
like a thrift store with fashion sense. Theres no size
selection, just one of everything, so you better cross
your fingers and hope that top you like fits. Prices
range from VND100,000 to VND200,000, with a nice
little selection of eclectic earrings and accessories
starting at VND50,000. Notable finds include a few
tie-dyed sports bras and an impressive collection of
cosy winter scarves.
172 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
ccupying two storeys on Xuan Dieu, what used

to be Georges on To Ngoc Van contains a huge
range of styles, so its probably your best bet if you
have an eclectic fashion sense. From pleather dresses
to macram tops to corduroy skirts, Emporium fully
embodies its name. We spotted second-hand boots,
bags made from ethnic minority fabrics, a selection
of household knick-knacks like candles and pillows,
and even some lacy lingerie. This is also a good place
to find larger-sized slacks, up to size 18. The shop has
a tailor in-house and will alter any of your purchases
free of charge. Prices range from VND200,000 to
VND900,000.
Luna Outlet
2nd Floor, 59 Dong Cac, Dong Da

Call before you go: 0966 818264
s testament to the ever-growing presence of

the internet, Luna Outlet does most of their
business on Facebook. They post photos of new stock
on Hanoi Massive, and take orders via Facebook
messages. Theyll even deliver an array of sizes and
styles to your house, so you can try things on and
buy what you like without having to go outside.
How much better can shopping be?
This is a first-come-first-served endeavour, so
dont get your heart set on any of those floral
kimonos or slinky shift dresses you see on their
Instagram. Their stock seems to be overflow from
Western brands like Free People, H&M and of course,
Forever 21, with prices averaging from VND100,000
to VND300,000, and a 10% discount on any purchases
over VND1 million.
Curve
107 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
arrying Australian sizes all the way up to 18,

Curve makes Vietnamese-inspired attire for
Western-sized women. The brand has been designing
and creating garments out of their own workshop
for three years, and they also keep a tailor on hand
at the shop to adjust any purchases to your liking.
The style is twofold; loose, breezy casual wear, like
striped cotton maxi dresses and long linen tunics,
and Vietnamese-style professional attire, like cropped
blazers and printed polyester blouses.
Its a small shop packed to capacity with clothing
racks, and the amount of variety they have managed to
squeeze into such a limited space ensures that youll find
something you like. They also feature a rack of extralarge ao dais, and an assortment of jewellery made out of
painted wooden beads. Prices range from VND500,000
to VND2 million.
Mayhem Saigon
Masto Designs
136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
idden behind Ben Thanh Market, down an alley

and up a flight of stairs, Mayhem is a little oasis
of painfully cool shoppers and a surprising amount
of denim jackets. The selection here is comprised of
imported and vintage fashions, so while its possible
to find bigger sizes, there isnt much consistency for
women. Men, however, are stocked all the way up to
XL. Their uber-trendy fashion is reasonably priced,
with tops starting at VND200,000 and dresses going
for VND350,000, but be prepared to hunt for what
you want.
136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
he work of international school teacher, Andrew

Masterton, Masto Designs provide tailor-made
mens shirts for the more discerning male. In a
country where getting good fabric and even better
designs can be tough, Andrews service fills a nice
little niche casual and business-style shirts for men
who want to look good. From out of his workshop
in Ho Chi Minh Citys District 2, hes also now got a
selection of off-the-rack shirts, all at excellent prices.
Think VND1 million and less per shirt. Worth every
penny.
HCMC
Ginkgo
Dung Tailor
ginkgo-vietnam.com
ow with stores in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang,

Hoi An and Hanoi, Ginkgo is a homegrown,
French-owned fashion outlet focusing on the
wonderful world of the t-shirt. Naturally, as their
empire has grown, so has their range of products, and
now they also sell shorts, hoodies and for women,
skirts, dresses and pants. But the key? The sizes. Here
they have something to fit everyone. Check out their
website for a list of locations.
Saigon Square
77 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
f theres anything Vietnam does well, its putting

on a proper market. Notable here is the density
and sheer variety of products, from ski coats, formal
gowns, suits and office wear, to every imaginable
pair of sunglasses under the sun. The vendors here
are attentive and friendly and offer some great
bargains, with t-shirts starting at VND50,000, and
blouses going for VND100,000. One word of advice;
Saigon Square will not offer you a relaxing shopping
experience. Be prepared to sweat, haggle and
potentially flash an unsuspecting vendor while trying
a top on. For women, the largest size available is a
generous XL. Men are more in luck, with some stalls
carrying shirts all the way up to 4XL.
221 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
hese guys focus on making suits, and boy, are they

good at it. The focus is primarily on mens wear,
but they have been known to make womens suits
on occasion. Dung comes highly recommended from
many, though not the place to go if youre looking
for a bargain. With a tailored suit, you pay for the
attention to detail and quality fabric, and it helps that
this particular tailor boasts its own fabric shop, so
theres no need to go to more than one place. Prices
vary depending on size and materials, but its worth
checking out if you need formal wear for a special
night or a smart suit to impress the office.
Saigon Flea Market
Location varies, check facebook.com/saigon.flea.market to find

out where theyll be next
his is not the sort of damp, chilly flea market

popular in the Europe, but one packed with
beautiful clothing, stylish accessories and quirky
knick-knacks. Again, the accessibility of the larger
sizes at the flea market depend on supply, so get there
early and be prepared to rummage, but if you look
hard enough, youre almost guaranteed to fall in love
with something. Clothing prices start at VND150,000
for basics and can go up to VND1 million.
Material
World
Vietnams garment industry is already a success story. Now, with more
free trade agreements on the floor, it looks set to boom again.
Words by Jon Aspin
ts a good time to be in the textiles game. Even

without the impact of multiple tariff-reducing Free
Trade Agreements (FTAs) and legal partnerships
looming, experts anticipate the sector to grow by
an average annual rate of above 10% for the next five
years. Thats good news.
In addition to low cost, insiders cite Vietnams
geographic location, factory productivity (which might
surprise naysayers) and one-party political stability
as positives when it comes to producing clothes for
export.
To put recent growth into perspective, in 2005, the
total export figure for the textiles sector was US$5.4
billion (VND121.5 trillion). By 2013, that figure was
close to US$22 billion, largely driven by the countrys
top trading partner (the US) and to a lesser extent the
European market demand for affordable, high-quality
brands, and the governments willingness to deal with
them. If youve bought from the likes of H&M, GAP or
Top Shop over the last five years, theres a very good
chance it was manufactured in Vietnam.
A Growing Market
The number of major international retailers and luxury

brands entering Vietnam has continued to rise. The
Coming Soon signs have been taken down, because
theyve now arrived. According to industry insiders, it's
growth thats unlikely to slow down for the next two to
three years at least.
Whats different about this next period is that,
while key offshore markets will continue to be crucial,
domestic demand for affordable and even not-soaffordable fashion is anticipated to explode. Its a trend
we can see reflected on the high street in Vietnams big
cities, now mostly relocated to the suburban megamalls
being opened at a rapid pace.
Add to that a reduction in tariffs between

participating nations of the Trans Pacific Partnership,
signed by countries representing 40% of the worlds
economy last year, and you have an environment
that remains attractive for new and existing fashion
entrepreneurs.
In a 2013 interview with industry news website
businessoffashion.com, Ms. Tran Thi Hoai Anh, founder
of Globalink, a luxury retail distribution enterprise she
opened in 2006 and through which she has brought
luxury brands including Marc Jacobs and Givenchy to
the country, said that Vietnam was changing so fast, it
had become hard to recognise.
The last five years mark the coming of many more
big fashion brands and the market is becoming seriously
challenging for everyone, she said. There is a huge
potential, but it is not an easy market. No official
statistics can truly help us measure its growth and
maturity, so we can only ever really estimate how the
competition is performing.
Skill, Creativity and Turnaround
M.V. Vijesh has been in the textiles business for 15

years, 10 of them here and before that in India, with
regular sourcing trips to China, Taiwan and Indonesia
throughout this period. Now Country Manager at
Kaybee Exim Vietnam, an importer of raw material with
operations in Ho Chi Minh City, he reiterated some
positives working in Vietnams favour.
Its been a very successful last few years in this
business, he said. Vietnam is a stable country, and
compared to a place like India for example, its much
quicker at turning around large orders for big customers,
especially when 50% of all raw material is still coming
from China.
The reasons?
Well, obviously the geographic reality is important

Vietnam is much closer to China than India but the
workers in Vietnam here are much more skilled than in a
lot of other countries, and that makes the end-product of
much higher value.
Needlework is superior, and workers here can work
across a lot of different fabrics. This is what makes
Vietnam attractive for customers like Walmart or Old
Navy, who drive hard bargains because they want a lot
of good product fast.
A native of Chennai, Vijesh tells me there are over
4,000 factories in Vietnam that compete fiercely on price
and delivery times, with some biting off more than they
can chew from time to time. Its a number that he says
has swelled during his time in the country, but is also
well supported, with Vinatex, a government-invested
joint stock company, working hard to develop skills and
raise standards across the board.
That said, its a business that relies heavily on
reputation, which can rise and fall with equal speed.
He also confirms the trend towards growing domestic
demand, saying that while the focus when he first began
was very much on the overseas customer, its changing
now, with some factories focusing solely on producing
for local retailers. They are increasingly catering to the
middle market, exposing a new segment to higher end
brands, some for the first time.
Working in the closely related field of footwear,
Andrew Leslie is an Irish-born, Scottish-raised
product engineer for Adidas. He stresses the need for
innovation in product development, and has been
here working with young designers over the last six
months. He sees creativity as a competitive advantage
for Vietnam. The oft-quoted analogy about any
race of people who can strap a refrigerator to a bike
and make it work rings true the Vietnamese are
intuitively creative problem solvers.

But he is aware of the limitations on the factory floor,
pointing to education and proper skill development
as important in countries like this. Leslie believes this
will be the difference in helping Vietnam take the next
step towards research and development. History shows
that garment manufacture moves on, once economies
equalize, and new players are brought into the
reckoning. He uses his own industry as an example.
Value Chain
Footwear started in Taiwan, moved to the Philippines,

China, and now it is moving to Indonesia and Vietnam.
Soon itll move again, Myanmar and probably India.
He then offers some insight into how economies need
to react.
So what happens to those people when it has moved
on, is that those people move into different areas of
the supply chain, including innovation, research and
development. This happens as their level of education
and skill-sets improve.
He points to projects like Fashion 4 Freedom as
opportunities that exist now to start innovating and
change the marketplace for Vietnam in the future,
moving from being considered a cheap service provider
to a place that can lead the way in technical and ethical
designs.
He envisions a future more about what he calls cocreation where local producers across multiple sectors
contribute to product designs from the ground up, quite
literally, and not just a marketing gimmick.
Opportunities and challenges abound. It will be
interesting to see how the pending TPP and the
free-trade agreement with the EU comes to bear on
an industry charged with satisfying an increasingly
sophisticated and risk-taking domestic market.
The King
of Vest
For 24 hours, a Ho Chi Minh City tailor opens up their doors

to Kyle Phanroy. Heres what he found. Words by Owen Salisbury
t is one of the most crowded clothing streets in

Ho Chi Minh City. Everywhere you look, theres
a rush of people and motorbikes, racks of clothes,
storefronts with LED signs lighting the activity in a
rainbows worth of colours.
Mon Amie: The King of Vest is nearly unreachable
walking up; one has to dodge clothing racks and a
woman selling snacks.
Yet once inside, the confusion of the street recedes.
The racks of clothes are ordered; professional-shot
advertisements line the walls; handsome leather shoes
sit before the window.
Founded by the father, Dang Huu Vy, in 1991, Mon
Amie occupies two storefronts, as well as a small factory
where the garments are made.
His children Vien Khang and Christie manage
the shops, while the patriarch runs the factory. With over
25 years of experience in tailoring, Dang Huu Vy knows
how to make clothing that lasts; each suit has a lifetime
guarantee.
Working in wool, cotton, silk, cashmere, mohair
and more, imported from Italy, the Dang family takes
great pride in what they do. After 25 years, its easy to
understand why.
Mon Amie: King of Vest is located at 353 and 357 Nguyen
Trai, Q5
Made
for Walking
Sin Kavanagh and Kyle Phanroy pay a visit to
Shoe Fabrik to see fashion from the other side
f you were to dissect the large, white building

nestled in Binh Chanh, on the outskirts of Ho Chi
Minh City, you would find a mesmerising process in
front of you. Packed within four floors are the 180
staff at the Shoe Fabrik who work together to bring the
design concepts of some of fashions biggest brands
into a reality.
From the design rooms, infused with every possible
colour and walls of fabric catalogues, to the developers
constructing paper sample shoes on the shoe-shaped
structures known as lasts, and the basement filled with
sewing machines, ovens, and a good amount of glitter, the
entire building is a playground of ideas and creation.
Since starting in 2002, Shoe Fabrik has grown from
working for two brands to the 12 they work with today,
aiding their development, creation and sourcing. It is also
people-intensive; one style of shoe as part of one brand

requires anywhere between 100 and 300 people to bring
it to life.
The great thing about Vietnam is the history of
manufacturing and the large workforce still driving the
industry today, remarks Tony Hunt, brand director for
Shoe Fabrik.
If the Shoe Fits
The footwear industry is the third-biggest contributor to

Vietnams GDP and export turnover. After the ratification
of The Trans Pacific Partnership, it is expected that the
manufacturing and footwear industry will continue to
grow strongly within Vietnam.
Shoe Fabrik works with name brands such as
Helly Hansen, Keds and Tempe by helping them to
conceptualize and design the shoes they need every

season.
[Footwear] is such a captivating and complex
industry, every day is a school day, says Tony. Every
day you get a chance to learn something new. Each new
season brings 1,000 new shoes to design, thats three
shoes a day.
Passion is key when working with such high
turnarounds, as is a need to be creative. According to
Tony, the shoe biz is, er, hard to walk away from.
Footwear is captivating, theres just something
about the industry thats addicting; the fast pace, the
constant need for change and development, he says.
Not everyone who works here planned on working
with shoes, but once you start its hard to leave shoes
behind.
Insider
HELTER SKELTER
INSIDER
FASHION
Vietnam is a conservative country, a place where tradition is interwoven with everyday life.
Yet, so much here bears a modern edge, an edge that comes from taking ideas from
overseas and adapting them to local needs; an edge that sees this country race helter
skelter towards a future that is as yet unknown.
We wanted to capture this mood, this non-stop ride to infinity and beyond. Yet we also
wanted to capture the Vietnam of the past, regal Vietnam, a place, a feeling, an era that
lives on in peoples hearts. Through fashion, we wanted to achieve something very bold, to
show Vietnam as it looks and feels in 2016.
Tasked with this brief, our photographer Francis Xavier decided to mix old with
new through the use of the humble motorbike. The new was the bike, the face visors,
the Vogmasks, the Star-Spangled Banner helmet. The old was the Honda Cub, the
traditional ao dai and the yem, a northern Vietnamese version of the halter. Scenery
from Hoi An appeared on the clothing, as did flowers, jungle designs and images of the
Vietnamese dragon. And in the background we mixed peeling-paint walls with modern
day paving stones, cast-iron gate shutters and the facade of a five-star hotel.
The photos capture the spirit of now and then, past, present and future, the spirit of a
country that lurches forward before stepping back, until once again it leaps on to another
stage. As the lyrics of the oft-covered Beatles song, Helter Skelter, go:
When I get to the bottom I go back to the top of the slide
Where I stop and I turn and I go for a ride
Till I get to the bottom and I see you again
Yeah yeah yeah hey
PHOTOS: FRANCIS XAVIER

STYLING: LORENZO KALEOLANI
MODEL: NGUYEN DIEM NHUNG
MAKE-UP: TONY TUONG
WHAT SHE WORE

THE CLOTHING COMES FROM THUY
DESIGN HOUSE, 132-134 DONG KHOI,
Q1, HCMC. TO SEE MORE ABOUT THUY
DESIGN, TURN TO PAGE 65.
THE VOGMASKS, HELMETS AND
VARIOUS MOTORBIKE ACCESSORIES
COME FROM SAIGON SCOOTER
CENTRE, 77A HANOI HIGHWAY, Q2,
HCMC
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anything about it? No, I turn it on
and it goes does not count. Most of us
are riding around on these machines
every day, and we have no idea how they
work. We rely on little more than good will,

superstition, and prayer, and when they stop
working, its always a disconcerting (and often
inconvenient) surprise.
The talented and charitable folks over at VIP
Bikes took pity on us and spent a day showing

us around our own bikes. So for those of us
who know nothing (other than that wing
mirror looks broken), here is a guide to basic
motorbike maintenance and repair.
Tool bag
These are some basic, portable tools that
would be useful for anyone attempting
roadside motorbike repairs:
patch kit
combination pliers
screwdriver (both Philips head and
flat head / blade)
tyre lever
adjustable wrench (6 or 8-inch)
ring spanner
Basic checks to perform on a bike before buying, renting, or going on a road trip
Visual Checks
Are there any fluids leaking? Check the
engine area or underneath the bike for
oil; check the shock absorbers (and
wheel areas if you have disk brakes) for
hydraulic fluid leaks.
Are the tyres worn? There should be a
depth of at least 3mm (about the size of
the head of a match) left on your treads.

If not, they need to be replaced.
While youre looking at the tyres, check
the pressure. If it looks visibly flat or
feels heavy/mushy when you ride, get
them pumped up.
Are there any rust spots, especially on
Thorough Checks
Open the cap on the chain guard with a
flat head (blade) screwdriver and check
the tension on the chain by inserting
your index finger in the hole and
pushing up and down.
If the chain touches the chain guard
at the bottom, its too loose, but it should
move up and down a bit (roughly one
inch of play is fine). A loose chain will
affect your acceleration and is more
likely to come off the sprocket, while an
overly tight chain will wear out the
chain and sprocket more quickly.
Also, while youre in there, check to
see if the chain is dry; if so, lube it up!
Check the nuts where the brake line
meets the drum on each wheel (if you
dont have disk brakes) to make sure
theyre not screwed all the way in; if
they are, your brake shoes are worn out
and need to be replaced.
Also check the play on the hand and
foot brakes to make sure theyre tight or
loose enough. There should be a little
free play before you feel the brakes
catching (too tight and they overheat,
too loose and you cant brake hard
enough.)
If you have disc brakes, carefully feel the
disc to make sure its not rough or has a
lip (Beware: if youve been driving,
this may be hot!). If so, there is
something grinding on it somewhere.

Take it in to a mechanic.
Check the oil by twisting the cap on the
oil tank with a pair of pliers. The oil
should be the colour of honey or coffee;
if its milky or black, your oil needs
to be replaced (milky oil means theres
water in it, and black means its old
and dirty).
The cap should be too tight to take off
with your hands if it wasnt, make
sure it is when you put it back on. This
prevents water, road dust, and
mischievous friends from getting in and
messing with your oil.
Check your wheel and steering bearings
by putting your bike on its centre stand,
gripping each wheel, and wiggling it left
to right, and then back to front. If theres
any play, you need to go see a mechanic
to fix your wheel bearings.
Check the wheel alignment to make
sure the wheels are on straight by
counting the indicator lines on the axle;
the indicator should be on the same line
on both sides of the wheel. If not, its
not on straight.
Check the battery (if visible) for any
corrosion. Take it in to a mechanic to
check your electric system if you see any.
Fun fact; if your bike fails in cold
weather, its most likely the battery.
the spokes or chain (if its visible)? If so,

put some lubricant on the rusty patch
and make sure to keep it out of the rain.
If its really bad, take the bike to a
mechanic to grind or brush and repaint
the part, or get it replaced.
Useful Motorbike Words

in Vietnamese*
*Where there is a variation between
north and south, the northern
word is written first
motorbike / xe my or xe honda
mechanic / th sa xe
chain / dy xch or dy sn
wheel / bnh xe
tyre / lp xe or v xe
inner tube / xm xe or rut xe
puncture / thng lp or lng bnh
brakes / phanh or thng
lights / n xe
ignition / n my or my
oil / du or nht
petrol / xng
steering / iu khin xe or li xe
choke / ko le or ko e
oil change / thay du or thay nht
tighten / vn c or xit c
gear shift / sang s or vo s
1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear
/ s 1, s 2, s 3, s 4
kick start / p n my or p my
doesnt work/is broken/has a problem
/ hng xe or h xe
strange sound / ting l or ku l
pump / bm lp or bm bnh xe
repair a puncture / v lp xe or v xe
THERE SHOULD BE A DEPTH OF AT LEAST 3MM
CHECK YOUR WHEEL AND STEERING BEARINGS
CHECK THE TENSION ON THE CHAIN
CHECK THE BATTERY FOR ANY CORROSION.
THE OIL SHOULD BE THE COLOUR OF HONEY OR COFFEE
Maintenance or repairs you can attempt yourself

Kickstarting a bike
If the bike has been sitting

for a long time without
being used, try priming the
engine first kick it 10 times
before you turn the key
1
Take the free play out of

the kick starter (slowly
push it down until you feel it
resist a little)
5
Make sure its in neutral

and the ignition is on
Kick down quickly, all

the way through, and
then give it some gas using the
throttle (you shouldnt need to
throttle while kick starting, only
immediately after the engine
starts)
6
Slide the choke (under your

left handle) to the furthest
left position to get a richer fuel
mixture
Sit on the bike or stand to

the side, but keep one hand
on the throttle
If you have kicked it many

times and it wont start, you
may have flooded the engine.
Wait 15 minutes and try again
Once it starts, hold the

throttle for a minute to
warm up the engine and clear
out any excess gas in it
Oil Change
Do this when your engine is hot, as hot oil drains out better (but dont burn your hands).
You can run your engine in neutral for a few minutes to heat up the engine first.
Put your bike on its centre

stand
Wipe any excess oil or dirt

around the drain plug
Get a drip tray for your old

oil to leak into. Position it
under the oil tank
2
Put the plug back in the

bottom
Use your pliers to unscrew

the top cap (with dipstick
attached); set it aside
Use your pliers to pull

out the drain plug in the
bottom of the tank, and let the
oil drain out
Use a funnel to fill the tank

with new oil
Replace the top cap/

dipstick and tighten with
pliers
Adjusting cable brakes
Use a T-socket or adjustable

wrench to twist the nut
where the brake line meets the
drum; twist clockwise to tighten,
and anti-clockwise to loosen the
brakes (remember: righty-tighty,
lefty loose-y!).
1
Check the wear indicator;

if the two indicators point
to each other, or if the nut is
screwed all the way in to the
rod, the brakes are worn out and
need to be replaced.
2
Do not overtighten the

brakes, or they will get too
hot and expand, causing the
wheel to lock up. There should
be some free play when you
squeeze your brake handle or
push the pedal.
Note that changing the

weight on the bike will
change the amount of free play
(this is normal).
Remove the nut before

removing the axle shaft
(hold the wheel and tap gently
with your hand to remove the
shaft)
Remove the brake backing

plate assembly, taking care
not to lose the wheel spacers
Replacing/repairing a punctured tube
Put the bike on its centre

stand and place a scissor
jack or bricks underneath the
engine to support it so that when
the tyre comes off, the weight
change doesnt make the bike
shift
1
Use two spanners to undo

the axle nut and bolt
Remove the wheel and

place it on a rag or other
soft surface to protect the
brake drum
Remove the dust cap, valve

nut, and valve (using a
valve tool) to deflate the
Push on the sidewall of

the tyre with your hands
to break the bead, or
the seal between the tyre and
wheel rim, and push out any air
remaining in the tube
Apply tyre levers (use one

first, leave it in, then the
next not too far away) to
pop one side of the tyre off the
rim (be careful not to damage
the tube)
Remove the tube stem out

of the valve hole, peel the
tube out, and pull it and the tyre
off of the wheel completely
Put one side of the tyre

back on the rim soapy
water on the sidewall of the tyre
will help it slide back into place!
(The tyre arrow should point
forwards, in the direction the
bike will go)
Place the tube in between

the tyre and rim, making
sure to first place the valve shaft
in the hole, and push the tube
towards the side of the tyre
thats already in the rim (so that
you dont pinch the tube when
putting the other side of the tyre
in the rim)
Screw in the valve nut and

then put the other side of
the tyre in the rim (use soap suds
to make it easier)
When you cant continue

by hand, use a tyre lever to
re-insert the tyre (be careful not
to damage the tube)
Re-inflate the tyre check

pressure indicators on the
sidewall, and make sure line is
evenly distributed around the
wheel
Put the wheel back in

between the forks and
replace the brake backing plate,
making sure the speedometer
gear matches up in the correct
place
Replace wheel spacers

(apply a little grease) and
reconnect brakes
Line all the holes up and

replace the wheel axle shaft,
wiggling and tapping with your
hands if necessary
Screw in the axle nut using

spanners, making sure its
very tight (but not so tight that
the wheel doesnt spin)
13
17
6
tyre
10
14
18
11
15
19
12
16
Check that the wheel is

properly aligned
Insider
INSIDER
SUSTAINABILITY
Setting a Benchmark
Said to be the greenest building in Vietnam, Nick Ross and Julie Vola
take a look inside Hanois Green One UN House
n May 2015 the UN SecretaryGeneral, Ban Ki-moon, and Deputy

Prime Minister Pham Binh Minh
inaugurated arguably one of the most
environmentally friendly building in
Vietnam. Housing 10 United Nations
organisations under one roof previously
they were scattered around the capital in
different offices Green One UN House
achieves a number of goals; its energy
efficient, it uses recycled materials and it
has an open-plan working environment.
It also has a fully integrated ICT platform
used by all the different agencies, a first
for the UN.
Yet creating a building that allowed for a
better, healthier, safer and more productive
working environment for UN staff was a
challenge two decades worth of challenge
and it was only in 2007 that together
with the Vietnamese government, the UN
in Vietnam were finally given the go-ahead
to search out premises. Aiming to construct
a model building that demonstrates

the viability of innovative sustainable
buildings in Vietnam, according to Louise
Chamberlain, country director of the
United Nations Development Programme
(UNDP), the UN also wanted to set a
benchmark in the region for green office
design and make a firm statement of
the their commitment to sustainable
development.
[We eventually chose] to renovate the
apartment building for UN staff in Van
Phuc compound it had been built in the
early 1990s, she says. The premises are
centrally located and had sufficient space to
accommodate the target number of staff of
16 UN organisations. Following competitive
and consultative design processes, the basic
design was drawn up in early 2011.
With construction hiccups overcome
the need to reinforce the roof structure
due to the unforeseen structural concerns
and the discovery of a high-voltage cable
underground that did not exist on any

drawings the Green UN One House was
completed in early 2015. In June of the same
year, all the different UN agencies moved
into the new building.
A Sustainable Future
From green roofs and energy efficient
lighting and air conditioning, through
to draught-tolerant landscaping, every
aspect of sustainability seems to have been
thought of here. In a country with rising
air pollution issues, of particular note is
the use of non-toxic building materials.
Many building materials are made up of
low-volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) that
affect indoor air quality.
By choosing materials that have less
harmful components to human health, we
have created a more healthy level of indoor
air quality for our staff, says Louise. This
can reduce allergies and the risk of other
long-term health impacts.
Other features include the conservation

of energy by maximizing natural light
and using energy-efficient lighting, and
walls built with a lightweight material
that insulates well, reducing the energy
requirement for cooling and heating. In
addition, when the buildings solar panels
produce more energy than is consumed,
excess power can be returned to Vietnam
Electricity (EVN), reducing the net
consumption of electricity.
Over time, the savings in energy
and water consumption add up, says
Louise. But more importantly, we want
to demonstrate to others the feasibility
of green buildings in Vietnam; they are
effective, efficient and they save money in
the long run.
She adds: If large corporations and
government agencies can commit to
sustainable buildings and a more green and
safe construction industry, this can affect
the entire industry and save lives.
Insider
INSIDER
HCMC
The Upper Crust

With a name out of a
John Grisham novel,
The Society has created
something yet to be
seen in Vietnam.
Words by Nick Ross.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
n early 2010, the Park Hyatt opened

the Martini Bar. So different was the
atmosphere, layout and dcor, that
despite the top-end prices it was an
immediate hit. So when Chill Skybar and
Blanchys Tash came on the scene not long
after, the competition target was Martini.
Everyone wanted Martini clientele and
Martini style. Now a considerable number
of establishments aim at the same market.
What happened with Martini Bar is
typical of Saigon: someone does something
new, is successful, then everyone tries to do
something similar.
From a number of visits, we believe that
the recently opened restobar, The Society,
could well be the start of a similar craze. So
what makes it worthy of such attention?
For Those in the Know

Located in one of the new malls springing
up on Nguyen Hue, walk in between
Starbucks and Coffee Bean out front, and
the path opens out onto a small alleyway lit
up by fairy lights. Its here that you find The
Society. With a bar facing out onto the lane,
outdoor alleyway seating and two separate
indoor, air-con buildings, this is a watering
hole and restaurant that is as welcoming
inside as it is out. Taking advantage of the
open-air setting, ithas the feel of a quan nhau,
a Vietnamese beer-drinking haunt, but about
10 levels up. Gone are the plastic chairs and
stools, the plates of peanuts and the bottles
of Saigon Beer. This place is upmarket. Its a
quan nhau for the financially well disposed.
Yet the society is more than a top-end bar.
This is a place that takes its food seriously.
My first inspiration was a steakhouse,
says CEO and co-founder, Hana Dang. But
all the steakhouses here follow a rustic,

old-style design. They are also very male. I
did some research, and women dont like
eating steak so much. I wanted to create
something a bit more unisex.
Her solution? A steakhouse and grill, a
place that serves up seafood as well as steak,
and a range of meat dishes that are not just
focused on that red meat of local choice, beef.
With a kitchen set up by a multi-awardwinning chef, Hana is really pushing for an
enticing, top-end food menu. Weve tried
the oysters, steak and dishes like blackened
cod. Theyre representative of the mix shes
trying to inspire.
Yet being a restaurant was not enough
for Hana, and together with one of
the partners, Olaf Mueller, a fine-art
photographer who spent many years
living in Hong Kong, they liked the idea
of creating a laneway bar, the type of joint
prevalent in Hong Kong, parts of London,
the CBD area of Melbourne and New York.
Everyone in Saigon wants to have the
best location, explains Hana. But we

wanted something that was tucked away, a
separate society, a little bit hidden. Thats
why we called it The Society.
Set in a new food mall designed to
resemble 1950s Saigon with its Asian yet
French-influenced architecture, inside they
went for European but with a modern
twist. The regal, velvet-upholstered chairs,
the mosaic white, cream and blue floor
tiling, and stucco plaster that could be from
Paris, Budapest or Vienna; the chandeliers
with their subtle lighting and the marble
table tops this is a meshing of all things
European. Theres also an obsession with
the colour blue making the place both
corporate and yet surprisingly relaxed.
Seven Deadly Sins

Naturally its not just the dcor and setting
that make one dining option stand out from
the next, its the product, too. Here, while
nuts still need to be tightened and bolts
wait to be adjusted, what The Society has
created is already drawing in the crowds.

One standout is the drinks list.
Put together by Adelaide native Jay
Moir, to add spice hes created a separate
cocktail menu to complement the 160
drinks already on offer the Seven Deadly
Sins. The presentation is as unusual as the
drinks themselves. Check out the Smoking
Sinatra. It genuinely smokes.
For me, thats what cocktails are about,
he says. Theyre fun, good to drink and
enjoyable. Were inviting you to come to
our house, so we want to entertain you. Its
that simple.
That is where The Society is making
the right moves. They want to entertain
their guests, provide them with something
different, and to do it well. Inevitably,
though, it will be judged by the same
metric as any other potential trendsetter
in this ultra-competitive city can it
continue to draw in the crowds?
The Society is at Saigon Garden, 99 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, HCMC
Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Chops
The latest addition to The Strip in West Lake, gourmet burger joint Chops is making
the juices flow and the tongues wag. So, what does our anonymous restaurant reviewer
think? Photos by Julie Vola
THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
11
SERVICE
f Chops were a man, Id be in

love with him.
Wed lock eyes across busy
Quang An street, me on my way
to work or out, and he just sitting
there, watching the world pass by.
I would be irresistibly attracted
to his scrubbed wooden tables and
open simplicity. He would lure me
in for good with his strong, hoppy
IPA (from Saigons Pasteur Street
Brewery), a rarity among Asian
beers and worth every one of its
VND95,000.
At first sight of his menu, I would
fall hard. Stay here a while, he'd
whisper in my ear. Ill make you
breakfast. As long as breakfast is
served after noon and consists of
burgers and wings and milkshakes
and beer, of course. But I dont
care; Im too deep in the thrill of
infatuation, the heart-stopping
flusters that mark the start of every
new relationship.
He has his flaws, certainly; an
odd tattoo (a burger eating another
burger? So meta), a strange obsession
with meat cleavers (I get that you
like butchery, but must you decorate
your space with knives, darling?), and
he likes young people in black and
white a little too much, as they are
continually running about the place

(is it some sort of fetish? I can forgive
almost anything for you), although
they never seem to be around when
you need them. In spite of his good
taste in music (who doesnt like
classic rock?), he also tends to play his
Beatles albums a bit too often.
Love at First Bite

But what keeps me by his side is his
juicy, tender meat. It really was love at
first bite. On our first night together, I
had the Chops burger (VND120,000),
which was perfectly cooked and
relatively simple, relying on the
quality of its ingredients to carry the
flavours (and carry them they did).
The buttermilk bingo chicken wings
(VND130,000) were also fantastic;
breaded and fried, deliciously crispy
on the outside and tender on the
inside. As much as I wanted real
buffalo sauce, I had to admit the
Chops chilli sauce was tasty and did
almost as well.
The truffle mayo that comes with
the thick-cut triple-cooked fries
(VND60,000) alone is worthy of
writing home about. Add to that the
rocky road dessert (VND90,000), a
delectable mixture of merengue, ice
cream, toasted marshmallow, and
sliced toasted almonds, and I would

definitely be proud to introduce
Chops to my parents. Im sure theyd
love him almost as much as I do.
No boring monogamous
relationship is this, however. Bring
your friends, he suggests, and
I comply, finishing in the most
satisfying orgy of meats and sauces
I have ever had the pleasure of
experiencing. The best part is that
he doesnt get jealous. If ever I want
to see a bia hoi or a little caf instead,
he doesnt complain, welcoming
me back with open arms no matter
where Ive been. As much fun as he
is, though, Im not sure I can afford
to keep him; of the two of us, Im
definitely the breadwinner. In fact, he
hasnt paid for dinner once.
Sometimes I wonder how he feels
about us. Am I as special to him as he
is to me, or am I just another of the
many patrons who also seem to love
him? Id ask, but my mouth is too full.
Im not sure what this means for
the long term. If Chops were a man,
there could be a real future for us, but
its too early to tell. For now, Im just
taking it slow and savouring our time
together.
Chops is located at 4 Quang An, Tay
Ho, Hanoi
12
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER
HANOI
The Many Faces

of Bun Cha
On the trail of one of the capitals favourite dishes, Huyen Tran checks out some of
Hanois best bun cha. But this is not the dish as you know it. Photos by Julie Vola
s staple as banh mi, bun cha is Hanoians regular choice for lunch, even dinner
or breakfast. Local people joke that if tourists miss bun cha during their first
visit to Hanoi, that trip doesnt count.
Tourist guidebooks suggest that the only place to get bun cha in Hanoi is Bun
Cha Hang Manh from the Dac Kim label. But this is far from the truth. Working from
the traditional recipe of pork grilled over charcoal in garlic-laced nuoc mam or fish sauce,
together with vermicelli and herbs, the various tastes and versions of bun cha offered by
hundreds of street-side eateries will definitely surprise you.
1) A Leafy Bite
Bun Cha Xuong Song
Intersection of Cho Gao, Nguyen Sieu and Dao
Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem
Price: VND30,000 per portion
Open for lunch
Like any street-side eatery, the smell of pork
grilled over charcoal really invokes a mouthwatering sensation for passers-by. And its
aroma is even more tempting thanks to la
xuong song or blumea lanceolaria one of the
herbs traditionally grown in the back yard
by families and used to treat cold and fever.
Vietnamese women in the countryside
often use this leaf or la lot (betel leaf) to
double up the flavour for the meat. And
enjoying the grilled pork wrapped in la
xuong song or la lot has been one of the
traditional ways for people to eat bun cha.
The pork meat at this eatery is not only
especially aromatic but also very rich,
flavourful and juicy within as the leaf
prevents the meat from coming into direct
contact with the coals. The sauce or nuoc
mam at this place is also very delicious, often
served warm, which is really a plus.
2) Golden Oldie
Bun Cha Duy Diem
140 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh
Open for lunch
Known as one of the oldest bun cha shops
in Hanoi, Bun Cha Duy Diem, for some
people, is comparable with the mythical Bun
Cha Dac Kim. You can easily spot the eatery
on Ngoc Khanh Street from a distance as
theres a metal chimney attached to the grill
out front which billows an appealing smell
over the street. The highlight of the eatery
is their awesome grilled pork, both sliced
pieces and minced pork. Pork bellies are
carefully selected and minced pork is shaped
like short, small sausages, instead of pattyshaped. Its super sweet and juicy.
In my opinion, they make the best minced
pork in town. Another positive? Their crab
spring roll or nem cua be really rocks. Squareshaped, wrapped in crispy thin skin, the nem
tastes delicious with the pork fillings inside,
blended with the taste of mushrooms and
beansprouts.
If theres a downside, its that their nuoc
mam is Saigonese sweet. For people having
a sweet tooth like me, its still fine. However,
for many locals, thats simply not the way
that Hanoi bun cha is meant to be.
3) Skewer it Up
Bun Cha Co Truyen
Crossroads of Ba Trieu and Nguyen Du, opposite
the Pierre Cardin shop on Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung
Open for lunch
4) In the Soup
Bun Cha Chan
114 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung
Price: VND 30,000 per bowl
Open for lunch
You may wonder how bun cha chan is
different from the normal bun cha, as
whenever eating bun cha, diners are already
served with a bowl of fish sauce, either
steaming or warm. Yet, instead of fish sauce
or nuoc mam, this is a new variation with a
bowl of broth. A hot bowl of bun cha chan
is topped with grilled pork, but instead of
patties or sliced meat, a big slab of grilled
minced pork is displayed on top, with fresh
herbs and vegetables. It is rumoured that
this variation originates from Bac Ninh
Province. While some people think that this
variation has a bland taste, younger people
regard it as interesting and delicious.
Besides wrapping the pork in leaves,

another traditional way of preparing bun
cha is clamping the meat between bamboo
skewers, which is called bun cha kep que tre
in Vietnamese. Delicious bun cha in skewers
is said to be also found at Ngo Dong Xuan,
Dong Xuan Market. However, to many
locals, this very old bun cha stall (maybe

the oldest one) on the street best recalls
the way Hanoians prepared the dish in the
past. Clamped between bamboo skewers,
the strips of pork are remarkably tender.
Noticeably, the nuoc mam bowl and nem cua
be here are slightly smaller than normal.
5) Duckin and Divin

Quan Ngan Hien
75 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
Price range: VND 25,000 to 80,000
Evenings only
The name bun cha in Vietnamese reflects
the main ingredients of this dish. Bun here
means vermicelli while cha stands for grilled
meat. For years, people took it for granted
that cha was grilled pork. Actually, it doesnt

exactly mean pork meat nor necessarily even
pork. Thats why people make grilled duck
or Muscovy duck, and call it cha vit or cha
ngan.
This eatery on Hang Bong specialises in
the ngan version and is very famous for its
Muscovy duck noodle soup (bun mien ngan).
They also serve up really nice cha ngan or
grilled/barbecued Muscovy duck. The fresh

ngan meat is seasoned with a marinade of
garlic and sauces hours before grilling over
charcoal. Charred but still tender, cha ngan
really brings a strong and richer taste than
grilled pork.
When diners order bun cha ngan, the
grilled ngan meat is served with warm
dipping sauce and vermicelli.
Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
Le Terroir
Laid back and unobtrusive, Le Terroir is one of those French restaurants that
nestles seamlessly into the Thai Van Lung area of Saigon. So, what does our
Mystery Diner think? Photos by Kyle Phanroy
ometimes its nice to step back

from the expensive and the glitzy.
Sometimes its nice to ease into
the comfortable and the quiet.
Dont get me wrong; I adore eating at
expensive restaurants just as I adore haute
cuisine; dressing up, lingering over multicourse meals, sparkling conversation. Yet
sometimes you just need a change.
With this attitude in mind, I went out for
my first dateless Mystery Diner to Le Terroir,
a new little French bistro tucked back near the
Opera House. Though its almost a year old, I
had yet to try it, and I liked the idea of a good
French meal without fuss or any snobbery
save my own.
Its much simpler ordering when one is
by oneself; within two minutes, Id ordered
the countryside tagliatelle (VND150,000) and
a medium rare flank steak (VND195,000)
vegetables be damned. To drink, I got
a glass of La Vielle Ferme, the house red
(VND80,000). Le Terroir is almost unbeatable
in terms of price for French restaurants in Ho
Chi Minh City, but I wasnt sure yet if that
was a good thing.
Like a Neighbourhood Bistro in

Paris
Alternating between reading my book and
chatting with the waitress, I sized up the

restaurant. Le Terroir is charming without
being twee, walls covered with mirrors and
a wide selection of interesting prints. The
dining room is small, but in an intimate
rather than crowded way. A gauzy red curtain
blocks off the outside world. It felt somewhat
like a neighborhood bistro in Paris.
The service impressed me. Granted, it
wasnt terribly busy but my waitress
took the time to talk wine with me, and to
cheerfully assuage my curiosity about other
dishes on the menu, who owns the place,
what the weekday lunch deal is like and much
more. That kind of warmth is a critical part of
good service.
Rich in Flavour, Not in Price

Then the pasta arrived, and I fell to. The
cream sauce was rich, but needed both salt
and pepper to balance its creaminess. The
dense, flavourful slivers of smoked duck
breast and the salty, fatty bacon played well
together, and I finished my plate (sizable,
given the quite reasonable price) off tout suite.
My steak tasted good; I enjoy the extrabeefy flavour of a good bavette, and Le Terroir
didnt disappoint in that department. The
inside was a perfect pink, and the outside
was a warm, crunchy brown.
The house red complemented both dishes

quite well, its tartness clearing out the cream
sauce and enhancing the deep umami notes
of the bavette.
By the time I asked about ordering dessert,
the chefs had already left. I survived the
disappointment, though Id quite wanted to
try the chocolate fondant (VND75,000), made
with Valrhona Coeur de Guanaja chocolate.
A Quiet Date, A Relaxing Late Dinner

Honest assessment? Its a quiet, unassuming
little place with a simple, traditional French
menu thats large enough to have something
for everyone, yet small enough to suggest
that the chefs truly know how to prepare
each dish well.
The wine list is wonderful the owner
also owns wine bar Cork and Bottle but
the drinks list is a tad rudimentary. No
worries; I dont need to drink single malt
Scotch every time I go out... though they did
have it.
Id recommend it. Its a great place for a
quiet date or a relaxing late dinner, and the
charming waitstaff means that even alone
you wont be lonely. And after all, youve got
the food to keep you company.
Le Terroir is located at 30 Thai Van Lung, Q1,
HCMC. Visit them online at leterroir.vn
THE VERDICT
12.5
FOOD
12
SERVICE
13.5
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER
HCMC
A United Tet with

Sui Cao Chien
Chinese dumplings are far more than just dumplings. Theyre lucky charms as well,
perfect for the period before, during and after Tet.
Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Owen Salisbury
he concept about the food of

luck exists in many countries. In
Chinese culture, sui cao jiao zi,
a type of dumpling, represents
wealth, great fortune and a full family. Not
to be mistaken for hoanh thanh (wonton),
sui cao is bigger and its filling is more
diverse. There were many dishes that
followed the Chinese people to Saigon,
but sui cao has won its place on the street
and in the heart of Vietnamese foodies.
Although good sui cao can only be found

in the Chinatown areas in Saigon, it is
still popular for its symbolism, especially
when Tet is approaching. People believe
having sui cao for a New Year will bring
their family happiness and wealth as sui
cao is made in the same shape as antique
silver ingots.
The Delightful Bite

There are different sui cao dishes such
as sui cao soup, steamed sui cao or dried

sui cao, but I personally adore sui cao
chien (fried) for its lovely contrast of a
crunchy skin and a gentle filling. In China,
they cook sui cao in pads of dumpling
wrappers and a mixture of chopped pork
and veggies. However, when Chinese
people brought the dish to Vietnam, it was
adjusted to fit the Vietnamese palate with a
thinner wrapping and a different filling.
Sui cao chien, compared to other
However, eating these dumplings is

not that simple. In Chinese culture, they
believe that sui cao should be served in an
odd number of pieces, and also that an odd
number should be left on the plate. This
symbolizes retaining prosperity and joy for
ones family.
Busy Places Create Great Sui Cao
dumpling dishes, might not be as visually

appealing. However, dont judge a sui
cao by its cover. Biting into a sui cao chien,
you will first feel the crunchiness of the
fried wrapping. The tiny crackling sounds
that pop up when you chew proves that
the sui cao was fried properly and served
just at the right time. That crispiness is a
distraction from the soft and gentle filling
inside. The juicy and chewy combination
of chopped pork, fresh shrimp, drops
of fish sauce and ground pepper really

warms up and excites a diner.
A good sui cao chien must be fried with
a certain amount of oil and for a certain
amount of time to achieve that crunchiness
on the outside and tenderness on the
inside without leaving a mouthful of fat.
The diverse flavour dancing on the tip of
your tongue might make you want to eat
sui cao chien any time of the year, not just
at Tet.
It is always so busy and noisy in the sui

cao restaurants in Chinatown, and the
most dominant sound youll find in these
places is the sound of the cooks slamming
their cleavers on the chopping boards.
They are not angry that is just how
making dumplings should sound, as they
believe the louder the chopping and the
more echoes it creates, the more bliss and
happiness will come to their family.
Who can fully enjoy their meal
in a boring silent place? said the
straightforward waitress when asked
about the chopping noise. We also have
to cook loudly and constantly so the
customers know that we only serve them
fresh food.
I dont know whether sui cao can deliver
happiness and joy, but it was undeniable
that in such busy places, I was surrounded
by people enjoying sui cao with their loved
ones. Wealthy or not, they all seemed
cheery to me.
Grab your sui cao chien at Sui Cao Ngoc Y
(187 Ha Ton Quyen, Q11) and Sui Cao Thien
Thien (191 Ha Ton Quyen, Q11). In business
for more than 40 years, these places serve the
best sui cao in town
Travel
Rainbow
PHOTO BY JAN ADRIAN VENTER
Rainbow Divers is the premier dive centre

in Vietnam. Established in the mid-1990s,
it is the first five-star accredited PADI
training centre in the country and offers the
full range of PADI courses and daily diving
opportunities in five different locations.
Jeremy Stein is the owner and founder
he still loves diving today as much as
when he started the company 18 years
ago.
To explore the bottom of the ocean is
to go to one of the few places you can
still go in the world where there are no
phones, there is no internet, and you are
just completely at one with what you are
doing, he told me.
TRAVEL
NATIONAL
Going Deep
Jon Aspin completes his

transition to the dark side,
qualifying for his advanced
diving certificate on
Phu Quoc at the invitation
of Jeremy Stein from
Rainbow Divers
ve never considered myself the diving

type. Pulling off the cool in a wetsuit
look has proved elusive to say the least.
But its more than pure vanity that has
tainted my opinion of this sport.
As a less-enlightened man, I heaped scorn
on silly, rich white people who would lug
expensive, heavy scuba gear to the end of
my local jetty on weekends. There, on this
suburban Australian promenade, jutting
out all of 100 yards into the chilly Southern
Ocean, amorphous black blobs, otherwise
known as middle-aged men, would gather.
Heavily clad in unflattering wetsuits, seaboots and neoprene hoodies, they would
then stand around and steal oxygen, literally.
Eventually, after sufficient time loudly
expelling air from their tanks and officiously
Diving gives me a sensation unlike anything else, beyond imagination.

Being weightless, breathing underwater and experiencing
a different world."
Locations & Seasons
There are five different locations
to experience the Rainbow Diving
difference in Vietnam.
N HA T RANG (All year round). This is
where the company started in the mid1990s. Nha Trang includes a marine
park around the island of Hon Mun, a
40-minute boat ride away. Established
in 2003, the park features great marine
life and a great value destination to do
a PADI training course. Best time to
dive: February to October
W HALE I SLAND (February to
September). Offers a genuine getaway

nestled two hours north of Nha Trang
and an opportunity to do the full range
of PADI courses as well as interesting
beach and night dives. No roads or
motorbikes here, just rustic bungalows
and ocean views.
P HU Q UOC (September to February).
A developing island paradise that

offers fantastic coral life due to the
run-off associated with the Mekong
River, which also means it can suffer
from periods of low visibility. Local
knowledge is important, but there are
fun diving opportunities both North and
South around the archipelagos.
C ON D AO (March to September) Make

use of Rainbows private speedboat
to explore an amazing diversity of
dive sites here. Flying into this place
is akin to discovering the Planet of the
Lost Apes. Expect to see dugongs,
sea turtles and possibly some of the
bigger fish going around out there.
Jeremy describes it as magical and
exclusive.
S AIGON D IVE C ENTRE (all year round).
If you want to start your accreditation

while visiting the biggest city in the
country, make an appointment at
Buddha Bar in District 2 and meet
Jeremy for a consultation about your
business, school or just your own
needs. A great resource on making the
most of your time in Vietnam.
tightening and untightening a bunch of

knobs, they would labour into their gear and
enter the water, struggling under the weight
of their own equipment, and requiring
assistance every step of the way.
To me, these aqua-nerds were missing the
point. Being in the water was about being
free, not reliant on the storage capacity of a
movement-inhibiting metal tube strapped
to your back. Here I was free diving in little
more than nylon board shorts and a rash vest.
Even their post-dive rituals annoyed me;
their clubby behaviour, the T-shirts, and the
endless rounds of self-congratulation once
their 35-minute cruises were over. Ive been
down here for hours, I would think. What
are they so happy about?
The Dark Side

Fast forward 15 years, and I have the
answer to my own question. Having now
completed my PADI Advanced Open Water
certification, my transition to the dark side
is complete. I am now the proud owner of
two souvenir dive T-shirts, and happily
volunteer tales about my recent wreck dive
experience in Bali just ask me. To confirm
that Im not alone, I asked two of my fellow
divers the simple question: Why diving?
Diving for me is freedom, says Rafa
from Spain. When you're underwater your
mind goes empty, (and) there is nothing else
but yourself and the environment.
Outi from Finland is equally loved up.
Diving gives me a sensation unlike
anything else, beyond imagination. Being
weightless, breathing underwater and
experiencing a different world."
The Course
To obtain your Advanced Open Water
certificate you need to do five dives. There
are a couple of pre-dive theory quizzes
based on some course work, and several
challenging activities to complete on the boat
pre-entry. Two of the dives are mandatory,
and the other three are up to you. Deep
Water is the first mandatory dive and
takes you down to the sometimes nitrogen
narcosis-inducing depth of 30 metres.
Nitrogen narcosis sounds pretty serious, but
is something that professional divers will tell
you that they love. Its the effect of breathing
nitrogen at certain depths, and leaves you
feeling mildly but temporarily intoxicated.
My experience? Lets just say I was pretty
happy with how my day was going at that

point, but I still managed to pass the simple
cognitive tests my instructor threw at me.
The other is Underwater Navigation, which
involves using a fancy piece of kit called a
compass. This object will help get you back
to where you need to be if you encounter
bad weather or bad luck.
For my other three dives I chose
Buoyancy, where I was asked to control my
balance using only my breath, and then
swim through hoops; Search and Rescue,
which put my underwater knot-tying skills
to the test, and finally Fish ID, where I
developed a new language for the various
scorpion, clown and butterfly fish I saw.
All five of these dives were fun,
challenging, and gave my dive time purpose.
Each included at least 45 minutes of bottom
time and kept my mind busy in what were
fairly difficult conditions visibility was
restricted to around 2 to 3 metres on both
days.
Determined to impress, I hid my nerves
quite well, according to my instructor,
and appeared confident and nonchalant,
even though I was nervous. Flapping about
like a grounded pelican on your buoyancy
test isnt exactly the look you go for, but it
does happen. Tying knots youve never tied
before with the added pressure of 15 metres
of water on top of you isnt the easiest thing
you can try either. Getting separated from
your instructor and forgetting to surface like
youre supposed to after one minute just
takes years off peoples lives.
Nevertheless, I passed, and I am officially
an Advanced Open Water Diver. Theres
an email from PADI sitting in my inbox to
prove it. To say I celebrated with my new
diving friends Razek and his wife Maria
from the Czech Republic that night was
an understatement, but hey, thats how we
divers roll.
Living the Dream

Obviously you dont do this course alone,
and my instructor over the two days was
Marlee, a 26-year-old marine scientist
from Melbourne. Hand-picked by Jeremy
to manage his Phu Quoc operation after
completing her dive masters and open water
instructors course in 2014 in Nha Trang,
Marlee is an example of someone living the
dream in this country, and combining it with
her passion for the environment.
Cultural Experience
PHOTO BY MARLEE THOMAS
While the best pure diving in the country is

generally considered to be in Con Dao,
where the marine life remains relatively
untouched by tourism and the variety of
fish species is superior to most other spots,
Jeremy has an alternative view.
I always say diving in Vietnam is
not just about the diving, it is a whole
cultural experience. Its still off a lot of
peoples radars. 20 years ago they were
surprised it even existed here, but now, 50
precent of my business is pre-booked,
meaning people are coming to this
country specifically to dive so there is
definitely strong awareness. Its a hell of a
turnaround.
PHOTO BY JON ASPIN
ALL PHOTOS BY JAN ADRIAN VENTER EXCEPT OTHERWISE MARKED
PHOTO BY JON ASPIN
Keen to allay peoples fears about diving

being an overly technical sport, she says its
about being relaxed.
Once people have that moment when
they realise that nothing needs to happen
quickly, its a game changer.
She stresses the need to have confidence
in your buddies, and made certain I
understood the importance of safety in the
water.
Everything is double and triple checked.
Safety is paramount.
My advice then? Just go do it. The PADI
Open Water is your starting point and a

ticket to some fantastic days of fun on boats,
meeting new people and exploring the
underwater world. You wont look back in
25 years and say Im glad I didnt do that.
Just be warned, you may end up the proud
owner of some fairly cheesy dive T-shirts in
a few years time.
The Phu Quoc diving season runs from
October to March and the island is accessible by
regular daily flights. Visit divevietnam.com for
more information or send the guys at Rainbow an
email at pq@divevietnam.com
Vietnams Top Dive Spots

N HA T RANG
Electric Nose & Madonna Rock
W HALE I SLAND
The Three Kings & Hon Tai
P HU Q UOC
Dep Reef & Anemone Cove
C ON D AO
Hon Cau & Rabbit Island
Travel
TRAVEL
NATIONAL
Making Tracks
the Long Way
With the help of a bicycle, walking shoes and a sketchbook, Ben Rubin draws
a new route through Vietnams Northern Frontier
ver a lazy Monday afternoon bun

cha, Jrn Wind, a friend who works
as a tour guide, casually invited
me to join him on a research trip
up north. He would be tracking a new
route from Hanoi to Sapa using active
transportation. I half listened, slowly
painting a sketch using my coffee.
The plan seemed reasonable enough.
Heading far to the west of Red River, it would
take us five days by bike before arriving at
Hoang Lien National Park, where we would
take a shortcut over the mountains by foot. I
spent the next evening stuffing my pockets
with sketching supplies, and we were on the
road by sunrise the following morning.
Jungle Caravan
Jrn is a tour leader for Topas Travel, a
Danish international tour company that
specialises in adventure tourism. The
company began their work in Vietnam
more than 20 years ago, although they were
Jrn
leading trips elsewhere around the world

for a good 20 years before that. Over the
past five years, Topas has sent Jrn to climb
mountains in Africa and pedal across India,
but he has continued to base himself in
Hanoi for most of his time between trips.
Jrns friend Filip, a tour guide for
another Danish company, joined the trip
as well. Spending most of the last decade
abroad, Filip has been in and out of Vietnam
for twice as long as Jrn. Although each of
us would bring a list of previous adventures
and stories along for the ride, the route
would be new to all of us.
Topas has a long history of partnering
with indigenous local people and minority
Trang
Toa
Philip
groups to collaborate with route scouting

and to help with expeditions. Chao, a
Black Hmong originally from the Loo Cai
Province, would be introducing us to the
mountain pass once we reached the foothills
of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range,
famous for Phan Xi Pang, the highest peak
in Indochina. He has worked with Topas
since the very beginning, and has trained
well over 100 other local men to become
porters for trips, when they arent busy with
the rice harvests. For our trip, Chao would
bring a small team with him and lead the
caravan as the only member of the group
who had crossed the pass up and around
the peak, down through the rainforest, and
Mang
Chao
Phu
through cardamom plantations until we

would reach Den Thanh on the outskirts of
Sapa.
Chao would be working with Phu, a
Vietnamese tour guide also working for
Topas, to connect with the locals and collect
resources and route highlights. We would
be passing through small villages inhabited
by minority groups, most of whom have
had little to no experience with foreigners.
It would be their job to make local contacts
for the future. Jrn would be mapping the
route with GPS and taking note of possible
waypoints and rest stops. Filip and I just
had to keep up, which turned out to be
much more of a task than we imagined.
Nu
Me
6
3
7
11
Day 1
Day 2
Hanoi to Thanh Son

95km
Thanh Son to Tran Phu

72km
am Sweet Coffee Kickstart

pm Roadside Dry Goods
pm Sore Saddle Seat
pm Rice Wine Knockout
9
12
3
10
am Lost & Found Phone

pm Orange Grove Offerings
pm Forest Fires
pm Countryside Karaoke
7
12
1
10
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Tran Phu to Tu Le
85km
Tu Le to Mu Cang Chai
50km
Mu Cang Chai to Than Uyen

45km
am Mountain Morning Mist

pm Oxen Roadblocks
pm Cinnamon Tree Towns
pm Snails & Sugarcane Supper
10
12
2
4
am Indigo Girls
pm Up Up and Away!
pm Roadway Rollercoasting
pm Highland Hilltops
7
10
3
11
am Football at First Light

am Siler Coin Cache
pm Lowland landscaping
pm Mr. Xeo Serenade
12
2
4
9
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Than Uyen to Ban Lao

12 km
Ban Lao to Den Thanh

11km
Den Thanh to Ta Van

25km
pm Tay Incence Invitation

pm TET Get-Together
pm Jungle Camp Canteen
pm Hammock Hearth
9
11
3
6
am Thuoc Lao Take Off

am Pause at the Peak
pm Rainforest Run-Down
pm Cardamom Crash Pad
6
10
2
5
am Smokehouse Hang Dry

am Bye Bye Batteries
pm Long Last Steps
pm Champion Cheese Feet
Down the Road

Living in an international city
like Hanoi, with all the comforts
(and chaos) it has to offer, its
easy to forget how different
life is just down the road. As a
developing country, Vietnam is
full of frontier towns; settlements
saddling the wilderness, where
people maintain a constant
dialogue with the nature that
surrounds them, just to get by.
As we passed through on our
journey north, it was hard not to
marvel at the ingenuity and sheer
persistence of the communities;
generations of people who had
worked through consecutive
lifetimes to create the vertical
terraced fields and rocky paths
between villages. There is beauty
in maintaining an elemental
way of life, to the relationship
the people have to the weather,
the seasons, the land and their
ancestors. In comparison,
our developed society seems
disconnected from the natural
cycles we live within, and many
conversations throughout the
trip began with questions about
where our own culture was
heading in such a hurry.
Of course I am writing this now

from a safe vantage point, from a
quiet room back in Hanoi far from
daily struggles out in the fields.
For what its worth, Im sure that
Robert Frost was in also sat in
an overstuffed armchair by the
fireplace when he wrote about his
famous Road Less Traveled. He was
certainly not hanging off a cliff
somewhere with his typewriter
deep in the heart of the woods.
And yet, finding a new way
forward often involves taking a
few big steps back even if just
for a moment. Bringing tourism
to the fringe villages, if done
respectfully, can be a fruitful
exchange on both ends. More than
the income stream we channel over
the mountains are the things the
mountains and their inhabitants
can teach us. After all, when the
phones and cameras run out of
batteries, the stories continue. The
magic to travel in Vietnam is that
you can still take the road until it
ends, and keep going.
To see photos from the northern
adventure and more of Ben's
visual stories from around the
world, check out his travel website
storygeography.com
Travel
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
This enormous structure

offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts
an outdoor driving range.
Shortly to become a Marriot
property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
fortuna.vn
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,

this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
This 350-room four-star set

up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming
pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set
to the west of town, Fortuna
often offers business deals
on rooms and spaces to hold
meetings, presentations and
celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train

Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
M M M
HANOI
INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST
INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
Resting just a step away

from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create
a contemporary space. The
first boutique five star in
the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107
rooms and suites contain
all the mod cons and are
complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
HILTON GARDEN INN
HANOI
20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden Inn
property in Southeast Asia.
Centrally located and a short
stroll from the historic Old
Quarter, the hotel offers a full
service restaurant, a stylish
bar, along with complimentary business and fitness
centres making it perfect for
the international business or
leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA
1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic

Hanoi Opera House and a
short stroll from the Old
Quarter, this five-star hotel is
a Hanoi landmark. With 269
fully-equipped rooms and
suites, theres plenty for the
discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL
HANOI WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built

over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all
the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic

signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel
in Hanoi is the new definition
of contemporary luxury. Lies
next door to the National
Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD
QUARTER
43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel

in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central

Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers
and is also a popular venue
for conferences and wedding
receptions. State-of-the-art
rooms, elegant restaurants,
stylish bars, fully equipped
fitness centre with sophisticated service always make
in-house guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI
83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French

architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0688
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a

la carte restaurant, this Accor
group property is prestigious
and close to the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and

tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND
METROPOLE HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French

colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI
1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys
above the city skyline. The
5-star hotel features 317
luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake
view or river view ranking in
7 types from Classic Room to
Imperial Suite.
M M M
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to

grace Hanois Old Quarter, the
six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast
is included and in the long,
lounge restaurant on the
second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up
with fresh fruit juices and
Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE
HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the

Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary
sundries and a replenishable
minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese
cuisine.
JOSEPHS HOTEL
$$
5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes
comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or
Vietnamese breakfasts. All
the modern amenities at
reasonable prices.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA
HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem

Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the
Opera House, May de Ville
City Centre is a welcome
new addition to the capital.
Combining contemporary
architecture with traditional
Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has
81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
M M M
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS
HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,

with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting
at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from
VND250,000. A place to meet
like-minded fold in the Old
Quarter.
M M M
HCMC
INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports 2006

list of the worlds top 100
luxury hotels, the Caravelle
houses the popular rooftop
Saigon Saigon bar, and the
restaurants Nineteen and
Reflections.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property boasts

seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business
centre, meeting rooms and
a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial
also has an on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex

offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL
ASIANA SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh

City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LE MRIDIEN SAIGON
$$$$
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 6263 6688
lemeridien.com/saigon
Marking the brands debut

in Vietnam, Le Mridien Saigon is the gathering place for
curious and creative-minded
travellers. Located in the
heart of Ho Chi Minh City
next to the Saigon River, the
property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and
commercial areas, making it
an ideal base for exploring
the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating
surroundings.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL

SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.

presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing
event as well as a hotel,
New World is one of the best
luxury stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in

location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON
CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the

site of the old Metropole, this
upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature
rooms combining design,
comfort and connectivity.
Innovative cuisine, a great
downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to
host up to 600 guests make
up the mix.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the

Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE
HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 1117
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup
or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of

the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities, an
openair restaurant 23 floors
above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in

downtown Saigon, caters to
upscale business and leisure
travelers seeking a classic yet
contemporary stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining,

a sauna, health club, and
superb panoramic views of
the cityscape. Also hosts
the largest Oktoberfest in
the region.
M M M
HCMC DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has

been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to
highlight Vietnamese culture.
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique

business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08)
3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has

a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
VILLA SONG SAIGON
$$$
197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6090
villasong.com
Deliberately located away

from the city centre in Thao
Dien, this riverside boutique
villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm a
rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.
Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and
dining options make this a
great, non-city centre choice.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY

HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M
HCMC BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every

room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL

$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL

$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M
HOI AN & DANANG
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh
Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396
1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG

RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang

Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences
and 27 private ocean villas,
each with a private pool.
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH

RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning

white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Set on the Han River, this

well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of
the nicest hotels in Central
Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some
phenomenal views over
the city make up the mix.
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near

Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
M M M
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 5914
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
kimdohotel.com
NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY
Front Beach
A Seafood Paradise
Sand, sea, coffee and nightlife.

Front Beach is the place to go in
Vung Tau for some action
Thanks to all the fishing in the area,

Vung Tau boasts some of the best
seafood in Vietnam
xpats in Vietnam dont rank Vung

Tau highly on their lists of mustvisit places. Theyre inclined to
view it as a slightly run-down beach
resort that may appeal to local weekenders
from Ho Chi Minh City, but with nothing
of note to attract a foreigner. At the risk
of sounding like a know-it-all, theyre
mistaken about that. Vung Tau is a pretty
cool place.
Why do I say this? I live there.
And what is it that attracts me about the
place, and has kept me here for nearly a
decade? In a word serenity.
Let me give you an example of what I
mean by that. The other evening I found
myself in a terraced, coffee-bar-cum-cafe on
the beachfront (with deckchairs rather than
seats), ordered a beer, and lay back to watch
the sun set over Vung Tau. The red orb
teetered on the horizon for all of 30 seconds,
then slid slowly, gracefully, from sight, to
leave the sky smeared with orange, purple,
violet and pink streaks.
I was the sole customer of this beautifully
appointed cafe. With a sea view to die for,
tall, shady trees wound with flickering fairy
lights, and seating for around 40 customers,
it had everything a discerning customer
could wish for. Everything, that is, except
for other customers. And for someone in
search of a little peace and relaxation after

a grueling day at the workhouse, thats just
what the doctor ordered.
Away from the Chaos
By Don Wills
A mere 90-minute drive or hydrofoil ride

from Ho Chi Minh City, or a two-hour flight
from Hanoi, Vung Tau is worlds away from
the crowds, pollution, traffic chaos and
frenetic activity of the big cities. The air is
clear, the traffic (by Vietnamese standards
at least) is sparse, and the pace of life is laid
back. A constant sea breeze keeps the city
cooler than Saigon, and the rainy season is
brief and, on the whole, less intense than
other parts of the country.
Surprisingly, very few expats visit Vung
Tau. A few families intent on a weekend of
lazing on the beach, a handful of Aussie vets
revisiting the scene of their war years, half
a dozen liquored-up oilies on shore leave, a
backpacker or two, but thats about it.
I partly blame Lonely Planet for this.
In their 2005 edition they dismiss the
destination with the words: The beaches
here arent Vietnams best, nor is the water
pristine due to pollution from oil drilling.
Beachgoers looking for a tropical holiday
might do better by making the three-hour
trip to Mui Ne beach. The 2015 edition
gives a better review, but only slightly better.
ENTRY 1:
Vung Tau
Bigger than in Rio

The early 1970s built statue of Jesus
is 2m taller than its
better known rival in Brazil
Beauty in Spades
Apart from the peace and quiet, what else
does Vung Tau have to offer that might
attract an expat? Well, for one thing, natural
beauty. Vung Tau has it in spades. Back
Beach is three kilometres of sand and safe
swimming, with around 50 medium-tohigh-priced hotels nearby to choose from.
Front Beach, where the hydrofoils disgorge
their passengers, is more commercial, with
ships of all sizes and descriptions anchored
in the bay, and towered over by not one but
two mountains (hills really, but dont tell the
people hereabouts they dont have many
mountains to boast of in southern Vietnam).
Clinging to the sides of the mountains are a
number of glittering Buddhist temples, and
standing atop Small Mountain is a statue of
Jesus with outstretched arms. Though not
as famous as Rios, Vung Taus Jesus is two
metres taller. A cable car makes its way up to
the summit of Big Mountain, where theres a
smallish, rather neglected amusement park.
Great views, though.
Front beach is where the action is, but
dont get excited by that word action
by big-city standards its pretty tame.
The beach is fringed by a strip of hotels,
bars, restaurants and coffee shops, with
a sprinkling of discos, karaoke bars and
massage parlours. Theres even a small
street of girlie bars a block away. Across

the road from the beach, vendors carts sell
grilled octopus, dried squid, grilled fish,
and scallops. The seafood in Vung Tau is
second-to-none: fresh, expertly prepared and
mouth-watering.
Yes, Vung Tau is the ideal place for a
getaway. Its just that nobody realises it yet.
Don Wills
Don Wills is from New Zealand. He has
travelled and written articles all over the world,
but mostly in Southeast Asia
The beaches here arent Vietnams best,

nor is the water pristine due to pollution from
oil drilling. Beachgoers looking for a tropical
holiday might do better by making the
three-hour trip to Mui Ne beach
Travel
THE NAM HAI

$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510)
394 0000
M M M
Includes three massive

swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, preprogrammed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
EVASON ANA MANDARA

AND SIX SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
M M M
2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villastyle

accommodation furnished
in traditional native woods,
this resort offers verandah
dining, a pool bar and the
signature Six Senses Spa.
ghmhotels.com
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South

Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The

Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
SHERATON NHA TRANG

HOTEL AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M
PHAN THIET & MUI NE
NINH CHU BAY BEACH
CLUB & BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this

budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the
jungle and nature.
Enjoy the private beach with

excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7322
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with 154

guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete
with a pool, spa, restaurant,
bar and meeting room that
caters for up to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY
NINH VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a

swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those
who opened it in 1995.
JOES GARDEN RESORT
$$
86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham
Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384
7177
joescafemuine.com
A leafy, seafront bungalow

resort and caf with nightly
live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places
youd find on the Thai islands, an international and
Asian food menu together
with a cheap happy hour
on beer make up the relaxing mix.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria

chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens with
an infinity swimming pool,
a seafood restaurant, spa,
beauty salon and jacuzzi.
M M M
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE
BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar

all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for US$8
(VND168,000) each a night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,
Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a

beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike
rental, boat trips and tours
are easily arranged. Discount
rates during rainy season.
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SALINDA RESORT PHU
QUOC ISLAND
$$$$
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To
Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien
Giang
Tel: (08) 3929 3097
Hotline 0907 99 55 02
salindaresort.com
Set on the sea and only 4km

away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is
inspired by an interplay of
rustic local heritage with
contemporary design. The
PHOTO BY JON ASPIN
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
property has 121 rooms and

villas with private balconies,
and provides a luxury experience that embodies the
understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl
of Asia.
M M M
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from

its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of

the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
M M M
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM
BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT

$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao,
Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is the

ideal getaway from Ho Chi
Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-
galows and villas promise a

local experience complete
with an excellent spa and
two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come

with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and
cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM
STRIP
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is

Vietnams first large scale
integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star
hotel, a world-class casino,
restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP
area, as well as a variety of
beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the
Greg Norman-designed golf
course, The Bluffs, one of the
best golf courses in Vietnam.
M M M
TRAVEL
SERVICES HANOI
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
(BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at

the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while

offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel

agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers

with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure
tours to both popular and
isolated locations in Vietnam,
Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track
sustainable and responsible
tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more
well-worn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising

in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa kenya-airways.
com), American Airlines (aa.
com) and Turkish Airlines
(thy.com).
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an

international travel company
operating in Vietnam since
1992, offering innovative day
tours, short breaks and small
group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed
departures, Intrepid focuses
on real life experiences in Ho

Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong
Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and
beyond to get you up close
to Vietnams people, cuisine,
history and culture.
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA
Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group

journeys and tailor-made
holidays to Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia, Myanmar and
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisors Top 10 of best tours in
Hanoi since 2010.
M M M
TRAVEL
SERVICES HCMC
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh
City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency

helps travellers select their
destinations and organise
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced

travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY
3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management,

domestic and international air
booking and travel insurance,
to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward
4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08)
3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through

the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
VIETNAM VESPA
ADVENTURE
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222
993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers

multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
M M M
TRAVEL SERVICES
ELSEWHERE
BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street

food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.
BEENINASIA.COM
beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast

Asia. Offers you selection
of best hotels and great
tours. Create your own trip
or we can tailor make your
itinerary.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City,
Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Want to set up non-standard

tours in the Mekong with
local guides whove got extensive local knowledge? This
might be the place to contact.
THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES

PART 11: THE LAST TWO SISTERS
Matt journeys on from North East Indias Arunachal Pradesh

to Assam and Meghalaya on the back of Nemo, his motorbike.
DAY 188
Itanagar
Not a lot here, except that awesome city
name much the reason why I came.
Itanagar. Tolkienesque.
DAY 191
Bomdi La
Crazy fog. Im finally going up into the
proper Himalayas and I can barely
see my hands in front of me. Driving so
carefully then a crazy Sumo (jeep)
flies out from behind a curve. No luck
braking on the wet road. Wheel slipped,
I took a bad fall. Bastard didnt even
stop.
Poor Nemo. Maan, that bike took such
a beating on these roads already. And
me, also.
DAY 192
Up to the Mountains
Ive gone above the mountain tops,
above the clouds. And the song of the
day is Pink Floyds Learning to Fly.
Got an excited grin under my khau
trang and Im a long way from Hanoi.
And there are vividly colourful,
moss-covered meadows all around
and the strangest looking cows..?
Yaks? Mithuns? No idea what it is
something between a cow and a bear.
But big. Elephant-big. And furry.
DAYS 193 - 199

7 Days in Tibet
Got to Tawang. I know Im surrounded
by mountains Ive longed to see, yet
all I see is this crazy thick fog. Days go
by, never-ending fog remains, rain isnt
heavy but theres no clear end in sight.
But I got a great morning paratha shop
(always followed by the diabetically
(diabolically?) sweet gulab jamun); I
got this aging man in an old fashioned,
hand-knit sweater waiting for me with
a veg thali dinner and the most genuine
smile each evening and I got hot water
and a soft bed with thick blankets at my
remarkably cosy guesthouse a total
boost of life when the temperature here
commonly drops pretty low.
And seven years since its initial
conception I have completed a first
strong draft of Cripple Crows, my epic,
new screenplay. Its been a journey
within a journey.
DAY 201
Maintenance
Assams Tezpur. Thanks to Indian (Sikh,
to be precise) creativity in customizing

rare bike parts which otherwise arent
available in India, Nemos got new
sprockets, a new chain, a new air filter,
new gauge cords and new oil. (And Ive
got an empty wallet.) Feels like a new
bike.
DAY 203
The Treehouse
Whoa. Laos Gibbon Experience meets Dao
Anh Khanhs Studio in the middle of the
Assamese jungle. Theres a monkey on
the roof, Im told to watch out for snakes
and occasional tigers coming to visit
from Meghalaya what an awesome
place I get to stay at for those next few
days.
DAY 205
An interplanetary diversion
A planetarium in North East India?
Why not. At 30 rupees a ticket its not
quite Chicagos Adler Planetarium
where I used to hang out in college,
but I just love flying through the stars.
DAY 209
Obnoxiousville Pradesh
Getting dark and I found a quiet,
completely secluded spot to camp,
halfway on my drive to Sikkim. But
those people they just appear out of
thin air.
A guy drunken off his mind
wont leave me alone for 20 minutes.
Eventually got rid of him, but I just
know its not the end of it. Its a pitchblack middle of nowhere and sure
enough, 15 minutes later an entire
friggin village congregates around.
A delegation of elders surrounds
me; three generations of women and
children looking on from the road.
And theyre intent on me moving
who knows why? My negotiation
attempts fall flat, Im not happy
at all and theyre not interested in
leaving without me. So without
much of a choice, I leave my camp
behind and follow a pack of complete
strangers who-knows-where though
a pitch-black forest illuminated
only (in different circumstances
quite romantically) by fireflies. I feel
vulnerable and this once, I do hope
theyre just merely being overbearing
Indians.
For more on Matts films and travels,
check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog
at etheriumsky.com/prodblog
Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / Book Buff / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Medical Buff
Photo by Duy Khanh
Hanoi
Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH
A-ROAMING
BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic

healing modalities. Services
include craniosacral therapy,
deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones
massage, as well as energy
healing including Reiki and
Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
HANOI HOLISTIC
HEALTH GUIDE
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
A guide to various holistic

health practitioners in Hanoi.
Only available online, but a
great information source.
M M M
BOOKSHOPS
BBGV
Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office
Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3934 8681
bbgv.org
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
ASSOCIATION VIETNAM
Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit
and now shares a space with
Hanoi Cooking Centre. With
over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction
titles in stock, the shop also
buys used books and offers
free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho
LIBRAIRIE FRANAISE
DE HANOI
FRENCH BOOKSHOP
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3726 4896
TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE
VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

(04) 3936 2151
XUNHASABA
ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 4068
M M M
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
4th Floor, InterContinental
Hanoi,
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM
4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai
Ba Trung
Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee
in return for entrance to a
wide selection of movies,
new and old. The management has an eclectic taste
and shows films and opera
from all over the world. Call
to arrange membership.
M M M
CLUBS & SOCIETIES
(04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M
CLOTHING
BOO SKATESHOP
THREE TREES
SKATESHOP
JEWELLERY
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3923 1147
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3928 8725
booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
HANOI INTERNATIONAL
THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
HANOI OIS
NETBALL CLUB
hanoinetball@gmail.com
LESPACE
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a

school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
HIDDEN HANOI
CRAFTS & FURNITURE
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
goethe.de/hanoi
hanoicookingcentre.com
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese

culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide
you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an
open air courtyard.
M M M
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES
METISEKO
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

Tel: (04) 3734 2251
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 0088
LATELIER
ateliervietnam.com
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started

out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative,
poetic prints designed for an
eco-chic lifestyle. The products clothing, accessories
and furniture are made
from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global
organic standards. Metiseko
is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

0912 254045
33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 6758
AIRLINES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3824 1850
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE
COOKING CLASSES
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
EVENT SPACE
GOETHE INSTITUT
M M M
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and
made-to-fit clothing.
AMERICAN CLUB
in soft cotton jersey and

linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.
MEKONG QUILTS
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

(04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang
Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and
accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi
Essentials
M M M
CYCLING
DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
GREEN BIKE
CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh

IBIKE
SALES
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly

Nam De, Hoan Kiem
QUANS RENTALS
BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

0904 244941
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE
COLLECTIVE)
RENTALS & SALES
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
M M M
DENTAL CARE
AUSTRALIAN
DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: 0906 200434
australiandentalclinic.com
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac

Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2286
peacedentalclinic.wordpress.
com
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL
DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba

Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888
serenitydentalclinic.com
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51

Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International

Dental Clinic is composed
of dental professionals who
deliver modern, high-level
dental services throughout
Vietnam. The clinic provides
the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service
care to patients.
Tel: (04) 3928 5190
artvietnamgallery.com
Established in 2002, this

American-run gallery has
championed Vietnamese
contemporary art for more
than two decades. Holds
regular exhibitions and artist talks.
MANZI
GALLERY & BAR / CAFE
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art

centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide
range of art events. Manzi
promotes emerging artists
while presenting established artists from Vietnam.
The space also sells works
by leading contemporary
Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.
NHA SAN COLLECTIVE
GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: 0985 870316
nhasanstudio.org
The first experimental art

space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given
contemporary Vietnamese
artists the chance to nurture
their talent and experiment.
Holds regular exhibitions and
artist residences.
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3733 2131
vnfam.vn
Maintains and promotes

the treasures of Vietnamese
cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the
entire history of Vietnamese
fine arts.
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY
Packexim Building Tower 1,

23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An
Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workroomfour.com
A place to work. A space to

create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts
and events.
M M M
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
ART VIETNAM GALLERY

GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE
Daloc.vn
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE

6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc

Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674
4130
naturallyvietnam.com
ANNAM GOURMET
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
HOSPITALS
& MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC
CLINIC (ACC)
CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS
44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (4) 3265 6888
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)

3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI

(04) 3719 1196
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE

Tel: (04) 3934 3854
VEGGIES
GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

(04) 3719 4630
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
3701
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy

and foot care treatments
through the use of cutting
edge technology for back,
neck and knee pain, sports
injuries as well as all types of
foot related problems.
HAIRDRESSERS
& SALONS
HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK

HOSPITAL
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 3717
bumrungrad.vn
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987

718899
HAIR STREAM
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366
JUST.IN.M
48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907
LAN SALON
TOP-END SALON
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,

Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190
The Manor,
Me Tri Street,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA
PLAZA
241 Xuan Thuy,

Cau Giay, Hanoi,
Tel: 1900 555596
LOTTE CENTER
JAPAN INTERNATIONAL
EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)
INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL
32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3715 3666
jieh.vn
JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using

the latest technology and
built according to Japanese
standards, the facility is the
first in Vietnam to use Mel
90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany),
and is one of first three eye
hospitals in the country
using Visumax (Carl Zeiss
- Germany) for refractive
surgery. Top-end customer
service and a friendly, contemporary environment add
to the mix.
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3333 6016
lottecenter.com.vn
PARKSON
Viet Tower Plaza,

198 Tay Son, Dong Da
Tel: (04) 3537 8666
parkson.com.vn
PICO MALL
229 Tay Son, Dong Da,

Tel: (04) 6682 0400
SYRENA
SHOPPING
CENTER
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3719 7214
FAMILY MEDICAL
PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.com
DINH HAIR SALON
GARDEN
SHOPPING
CENTER
BUMRUNGRAD
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
warehouse-asia.com
M M M
SHOPPING
MALLS
acc.vn/en
WINE RETAILER
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487
M M M
RED APRON
WOMENS HAIRDRESSER
M M M
GALLERIES

Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
On the little street directly

below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A
Medium-sized practice with
both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are
used to treating expats. Also
a 24-hour emergency service.
FRENCH HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3927 5568; Keangnam
TRANG TIEN
PLAZA
cnr. Hang Bai and

Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
trangtienplaza.vn
VINCOM
CITY TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3974
9999
VINCOM
ROYAL CITY
72A Nguyen Trai,

Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04)
3974 3550
Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham

Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
7305 8880
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS
24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

(04) 3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic

also known for its quality
emergency services. Doctors
and consultants also provide
a range of services from
standard GP-style check-ups
through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.
VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC
KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3843 7231
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL
HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
M M M
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang
Quoc Viet, Cau Giay
Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL
INSURANCE
5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly
Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent,
co-educational day school.
Provides a British-style
education following the
National Curriculum for England, with students taking
IGCSE and A Level. Pending
authorization, will offer the
IB programme from 2016
onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing

schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3832 8140
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available

for students studying at
elementary through to secondary levels of education,
HIS is one of the few private,
international education options in the capital. Offers
Cambridge IGCSE and IB
Diploma for students at the
secondary level.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
OF VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
isvietnam.org
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school

serving the international
and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of
any nationality aged 3 and
up. Highly qualified and
experienced international
educators are supported by
a 21st-century campus with
the latest in educational
technology plus excellent
resources for learning. Class
sizes are small.
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba

Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601;
Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho,
Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,
Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4
Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel
(04) 6666 1818
kinderworld.net/sis
Provides an international
education for students from
primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the
Singaporean and Vietnamese
curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all
taught by qualified teachers.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)
G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Established in 1988, 1,050

students from 60 nationalities follow the IB
programme from aged 3
through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims
for its students to emerge as
responsible stewards of our
global society and natural
environment.
M M M
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
& REPAIRS
ANH DUNG
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

0915 066096
MR CAO
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: 0912 094464
PHUNG MOTORBIKE
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 1105
VIP BIKES SOCIAL
ENTERPRISE
RENTALS & REPAIRS
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0914 931390
Trains disadvantaged youth
to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike
mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
FAIR REAL ESTATE
RENTALS
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3718 6332
fair-realestate.com
GIA LONG HOUSING

RENTALS
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
gialonghousing.com
HANOI RENTING
RENTALS
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac

Long Quan, Tay Ho
Tel: (04) 6294 4828
hanoirenting.com
LANLINH PROPERTY
RENTALS
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: Tel: 0933 534999
houseinhanoi.com
VIETLONG HOUSING
RENTALS
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 5203
vietlonghousing.com
M M M
RELOCATION AGENTS
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The largest home moving

company in the world, Allied
Pickfords moves over 1,000
families in over 175 countries
every day. Has a full range of
services domestic moves,
office moves and storage
both inside and outside of
Vietnam.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

Unit 9 10, Shophouse CT17,
Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743
0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04)
3934 7243; C5 C11, 1st floor,
The Manor Building, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with

a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL OF HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
QSI International School of

Hanoi is next in a long line
of quality schools established by the Quality Schools
International. The institution
specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary
age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
DAY TRIPPER: HANOI

NINH HIEP FABRIC VILLAGE
Known for its fabric market, Ninh Hiep also has a long tradition of weaving and medicinal
herbs. Jesse Meadows makes the 20km trip out to this small village in Gia Lam
ometimes, GPS fails you.

Surprisingly often, it seems to
think a tiny dirt road through a
field is a real road, which results
in a lot of Really?! Really?!! sort of
moments, looking down at that blue track
on my phone, looking up at the unpaved
path cut through the bushes before me.
But thats what I get for setting off with a
vague idea of where Im going and a blind
trust in technology.
The destination was Ninh Hiep, a small
village in Gia Lam district, about 20km north
of Hanois Old Quarter. Its a somewhat
straight shot north across Chuong Duong
Bridge through sprawling Long Bien and
then, in our case, a quick jaunt through some
farmland. Now famous for its fabric market,
the village has a long history in medicinal
herbs and weaving. According to legend,
it was founded by an herbalist named Ly
Nuong, whom the locals still honour at Kieu
Temple, one of Ninh Hieps many pagodas.
We entered the village via a backroad
(thanks but no thanks, Google Maps),
dropping us straight from the dusty
countryside into the chaos of a street market.
We inched along with the traffic, through
an ancient stone gate almost hidden by the
stylish garb that hung around it, and made

a desperate beeline down an alleyway to
escape the turmoil. With no app to drop a
pin on the map for us, we resorted to plan
B drive around and ask. After a few
requests of Cho vai?, we were pointed in
the direction of the fabric market.
The Aladdins Cave

Each stall in this dim, covered bazaar is
overflowing with colours and textures.
Something about the fabric market turns me
into a hyperactive child, intent on touching
absolutely everything in sight. I want that
one, and that one! we exclaimed, running
our hands over jersey, fleece, velour, silk and
even fake bearskin.
This place has everything, so its advisable
to have some concept of what you want to
make with your fabrics before you arrive,
and a vague idea of the materials and colours
youre looking for. Forget about organisation;
this is a tactile experience, and youll have to
inspect everything by hand to find what you
want. Fabric can be bought by the metre or
the kilo, and the more you buy, the cheaper
you can barter the price down. Word on
the street says you can find designer fabrics
hidden in the mess, leftovers from Chinese
factories, if you know what youre looking

for. You can also find buttons, lace, iron-on
patches and even fake Chanel appliqus, so
you can DIY your own knock-offs.
After touching almost every fabric I
could reach, I settled on a practical cotton
jersey knit with brown-on-brown stripes,
a pair of comfy tailor-made harem pants
dancing in my head. At first, the seller
wanted VND70,000 per metre, but I haggled
a bit until we settled on two metres for
VND100,000. I suspect it could have been
cheaper (Ive heard of metres going as low as
VND30,000), but I had my heart set on that
particular fabric, and she could see it in my
eyes. Bartering 101; feigning your apathy
is key. Its a skill I have yet to master, but a
few more trips to Ninh Hiep should help me
polish my technique.
Getting There
Go north across the Chuong Duong bridge.
Stay straight until you cross a second
bridge, and the road becomes Ha Huy
Tap. Turn right onto Ninh Hiep. Roadside
fabric stalls will come into view ask
where the market is.
BOOK BUFF
IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION AND FAMILY
BY HOANG VAN TRUONG
This month
Bookworms Truong
looks at work that
focuses on the
family and family
relationships
n inveterate reader of quality

fiction entered the Bookworm
and sighed that shed just
finished the perfect novel. She
commenced to trawl the shelves for
anything else by Anne Tyler and asked us to
recommend other authors of the same ilk,
as long as their tales made you sigh, ah,
perfection when youd read the final page.
The book shed finished was A Spool of Blue
Thread and was short-listed for last years
Man Booker Prize. Tyler is no lightweight,
even though her books are deceptively easy
to sink into. Shes been a Pulitzer Prize finalist
three times.
Tyler has set most of her novels, populated
by ordinary, middle-class, white people
living generally ordinary lives, in Baltimore.
Reading Tylers books you wouldnt realize
that Baltimore is considered to be one of the
15 most violent cities in America. Tylers
families are mostly insulated from the
poverty that induces much of the crime and
unrest, and from the majority of AfricanAmericans and Latinos who account for twothirds of the citys population. Her characters
would watch the crime TV series The Wire, set
in Baltimore, with detachment.
This is not an observation, not a criticism,
of Tylers literary output. Any good writer
remembers the adage that you should
write about what you know best, your own
experiences. Tyler follows this advice and
writes about her Baltimore where she has
lived most of her adult life (shes now 73).
For the legions of Tyler fans the territory
of her latest book is familiarly comfortable.
A middle-class family ticks along with their
tensions and secrets trickling beneath the
surface. But then a sudden death to a member
causes a fracture in the fabric that has been
stitched together for three generations.
Facing her own mortality, in this story she
introduces the traumas of senile dementia
and the dilemmas that aging parents present
to their adult children.
Normal Abnormality
The vagaries of family relationships were a
common theme in Elizabeth Jolleys novels,
mainly set in an upper-middle-class suburb
in Perth, Australia. The Orchard Thieves deals
with three generations over a six-month
time frame. Adult males are not included.
Although none of her characters in the
slim novel are named referred to by their
place in the family or, in the case of two
rambunctious young boys, as rogues
they carry echoes of people in many of our
own families.
In Jolleys gothic-tinted world it is
entirely normal to be abnormal. In a review
of her work, the New York Times described
her adult characters as often misfits, often
lonely, slightly dotty, gently murderous,
and occasionally monstrous. In The
Orchard Thieves, her well-worn themes of
alienation, marginalization and unrequited
longing, as the New York Times called them,
are played out. A lot of us will recognize
ourselves in our relationships with other
family members as we read about the
mother, the unmarried elder daughter, the
married middle daughter with sons, the
youngest prodigal daughter who returns
from overseas to the family home and
orchard, bereft and pregnant. Its she who
scatters seeds of discord until the birth of a
new female into the family allows tentative
bonds to be retied and retested, and
redemption and forgiveness shyly offered.
After Jolleys death at 83 in 2006,
researchers assumed that many of the
mother-daughter relationships in her novels
were influenced by those between the
author and her strict Austrian mother in
Depression-era England.
Flawed Decency
Almost Tyleresque because it deals with
ordinariness in middle-class families,
gently acknowledging their dysfunctional
qualities, is Bonnie Burnards A Good House.
Similarly it chronicles the members of a

North American (Canadian) family over
six decades and uses several members of
the extended family to give their points of
view. Thus Burnard gently encourages us to
accept their flawed decency.
Burnard describes her characters as
people who come to understand that life,
like love, is best lived with due respect for
individual strength, common gentleness,
absolute loyalty, and having a good ear with
which to listen and learn. She devotes her
time to describing the complex emotions
that revolve around their most endearing
and powerful relationships, those connected
to their siblings, parents, lovers and
children.
As in all normal families there is a bittersweetness waiting to appear when the gloss
is scratched.
A good house becomes a symbol of
shelter for a disparate and expanding
group of people, no matter how far or for
how long theyve strayed from its initial
intent. It becomes the type of shelter that a
lot of us wish we had over our heads or
metaphorically waiting for us as a backstop
or breathing place.
Burnard has had breast cancer and her
second novel dealt with the effects upon
those closely related to a victim.
And the Males!

Other perfect suggestions in this subgenre include Kent Harufes trilogy about
families in the small town of Holt, Colorado
(Plainsong, Evensong, and Benediction) and
Australian author Tim Wintons extended
family celebration of people and places
and the rhythms of their lives, as the
official book summary says about his
supreme novel, Cloudstreet.
Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm
(44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more
information on go to bookwormhanoi.com
Hanoi
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,

JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Essentials
MMM
SPORTS, FITNESS
& YOGA
ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

(04) 3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
AGS FOUR WINDS

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices

globally. Have the capacity to
move property to and from
any location.
SANTA FE
RELOCATION SERVICES
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around

the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation
services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management.
The luxury gym features

top-of-the-line fitness
equipment, separate cardio
and spinning areas and an
indoor swimming pool with
a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming
place to squeeze in a work
out, but be prepared to pay.
This place is top of the range.
N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi

Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai

Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515
200-meter climbing gym

with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different
climbing routes within the
gym that are changed every
few months. They offer clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and
group rates are available,
but be sure to check out the
three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA & CAF
zenithyogavietnam.com
The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in

Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast
variety of classes and levels
in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa,
Ashtanga and Pilates while
also offering Restorative,
Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga,
Meditation sessions, and
Kundalini classes. Also have
a yogic shop offering incense,
clothes and yoga props, as
well as a caf serving up the
homemade vegetarian meals,
cakes and coffee.
VIETCLIMB
SPORTSWEAR
& EQUIPMENT
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,

VietClimb is a French-owned,
SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

(04) 3923 1147
bosua.vn
HANOI SPORTS SHOP

146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel:
(04) 2218 5757
hanoisport.vn
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly

Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel:
0904 356 561
M M M
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0914 143185
BOO SKATESHOP
YOGA & NUTRITION
studio5.vn
CLIMBING CENTRE
6273 3095
BIG C
SCORE-TECH
44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport

garments for companies,
schools and professional
sports clubs using the latest
printing technology with a
design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from fabric production and
printing to sewing. Big and
small orders for all sporting
and commercial needs.
UMOVE TRAVEL
AND OUTDOORS
TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
ADIDAS FOOTBALL
FOOTBALL & SPORTS
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
SUPERMARKETS

(04) 3771 3305
umove.com.vn
222 Tran Duy Hung,

Cau Giay;
Garden Shopping
Centre, The Manor,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
bigc.vn
CITIMART
Ground Floor,
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART
27A Ly Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX
22-23 Le Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG
LONG
Pham Van Dong,
Co Nhue, Tu Liem,
Tel: (04) 3755 1617
PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS
metro.com.vn
THE THERAPIST
INFIDELITY
Dear Douglas,
I am a Vietnamese woman
who is married to a
foreigner. We have been
together for three years. A
few months ago, when I was
pregnant with our second
baby my husband cheated
on me for one month with
a woman in a town where
he travels to. He admitted
he was wrong to do this but
I cannot forgive him, and
many times have gotten
so angry at him that I feel
crazy. I cannot control
myself when I think of what
he did and now I dont trust
him. We loved each other
very much before, but now
I dont know if I love him
or want him in my life. We
both know it is not fair to
the children to break up
but we are having a really
hard time staying together.
What should I do?
Hurting
Dear Hurting,
I am glad that you are
seeking support because it
is very difficult to manage
all of these feelings and
find your way through to
the best solution. It is also
good that you both realize
that the childrens needs
are a top priority they
are depending on both of
you to offer them a good
childhood.
When people learn that
their relationship has been
violated, when someone
cheats, it creates a crisis that
breaks the bonds of trust.
Trust is the foundation of a
close relationship. A crisis is
a period of intense feelings
when what we know to
be true is disrupted, and
everything feels like it is
breaking apart. You have
gone through this and now
you are trying to find a way
to have the broken pieces fit
back together and for trust
to be restored. It is difficult
and takes some time.
Here are some guidelines
that might help you to get

through the process to see if
you can re-find the connection
you once had with your
husband.
1) Manage your anger. Of
course you are angry and it is
important that you accept that
it is genuine. But, where you
can help your relationship is to
not let your anger become too
intense where you are out of
control and saying and doing
things that you regret or which
drive him away from you.
You have to teach yourself to
divert your feelings by catching
yourself thinking unhelpful
thoughts, and stopping it.
2) Understand that anger
is part of how you are trying
to get control in a situation
where you feel you have no

control. Anger creates a feeling
of power, and fear in another
person, but is short-lived and
not a real long-term solution.
3) Understand that beneath
most anger is fear. Think about
what you are afraid of losing
him and having two babies to
care for? Being alone, without a
partner to love? Being judged?
Talk to him about your fears
and about his also. Of course
you are both scared.
4) Make an agreement with
your husband to try to weather
the storm; in other words to
see it as a process that will
change with time and that
you have to endure together
without making things worse.
Promise not to break up for the
BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
next three months and see
if things can change. That
means not going back to
what happened, but living
day by day with what is
happening now.
5) Ask your husband to
make amends. This means
that he does extra things
to show you that he really
is sorry and realizes that
he has made a big mistake.
When you see he is trying, it
can help you to feel like he
understands your feelings
and his commitment to you.
6) Trust and forgiveness
are important but cannot be
forced to happen. At some
point it becomes more and
more a choice, and while you
might not feel that you trust
him 100%, you can offer to
trust him more and more.
Try not to withhold trust for
too long because of anger
(righteous indignation). It
is important to move slowly
towards trust and, at some
point, you may discover that
you can forgive. This can
take a year or more.
7) It may be that you will
find the connection that can
keep your relationship alive
or maybe not. Because you
have children you have the
responsibility to try, for their
sake. If you break up, be sure
that the childrens needs
are considered and that
they have a life with access
and care from both of their
parents.
I recommend that
you get support from a
psychotherapist for the next
few months, for you or both
you and your husband, to
help you with the process
of overcoming the crisis and
weathering the storm of your
relationship.
I wish you the best.
Douglas
Do you have a question
you would like Douglass help
with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com.
Personal details will not be
printed
Hanoi
On the Town
BARS, CLUBS &

BEER CLUBS
+84 BAR
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable

sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
EDEN HANOI
MADAKE
SIDEWALK HANOI
THE UNICORN BAR
OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE
BAR & EVENT SPACE
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE
COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor

parties, big outdoor parties,
the setting at Eden makes
this place difficult to beat,
with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
A wine bar with a difference,

this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,

Tel: 0976 751331
A favourite among those
who roam further west of
the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during
the weekends. Amiable staff,
pleasant vibes.
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 6919
Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star
prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great
cocktail selection. The kind
of place youll order a wagyu
and eat it at the bar.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
A small establishment from

the minds behind the party
and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling
onto the sidewalk as well as
a small loft area for lounging.
BACKYARD BIA HOI

UPMARKET BIA HOI
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho

From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway,
garden-based bia hoi is every
bit as attractive (and popular) as its caf peers in the
West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and
regular live music make up
the mix.
BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3734 9134
Set in a colonial villa, when
it comes to design, the funky
but comfortable Barbetta
with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place
for coffee, beer or even a
bite to eat.
CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: 01262 054970
cama-atk.com
With well-poured drinks,

a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing
time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be
and thats refreshing. The
space is a part time venue
for smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the
serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool
and take pulls in a relaxed
haven.
HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: 01633 166170
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and

an upstairs space dedicated
to live music and live production. Weekly live events
feature bands and DJs both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3972 5088
LE SOLEIL
DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

0915 663993
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,

especially if youre the dancing-into-the-early hours kind
of person. Sofas, bar stools,
menus on blackboards and
neon-coloured lighting,
theres a grunge-style feel to
the place, but its an ambience that Le Soleils customers seem to love. Has a pizza
joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

(04) 6276 6665
facebook.com/madakehanoi
With a stunning garden

overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed
for its many weekday and
weekend events, its ambient
Asian-style dcor, DJ nights
and general atmosphere. A
popular West Lake go-to joint.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
Theres only one Mao and
theres only one red lounge.
This late-night bar has been
going for years, and despite
its Old Quarter dive status,
it still packs in the drinkers.
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785
Now located on the river
in between Long Bien and
Chuong Duong Bridges, this
late night, DJ bar is notorious
for well, being Phuc Tan.
Almost every Hanoi-based
reveler has ended up here
at some point. Its just one
of those places.
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
Probably the closest thing
Hanoi has to an authentic
English-style pub, Polite is
frequented by a steady mix
of locals and expats who find
solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool
and live football matches.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
Located on the lakeside

lane just below Xuan Dieu,
this warm, quiet and friendly
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01653 336087
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock

Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events are
coupled with creative decor, a
selection of Belgian Beer and
a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor

setting. Regular DJ nights and
live music add to the great
ambience. Check out their
grill fare. Tasty.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering
hole popular with expats and
anyone looking for some
good conversation. Cheap
beers, oodles of Jamesons
and often open late. Oh, and
check out the Danish hotdog
stand out front. To die for.
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR
AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem

tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
THE NEST
VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay

Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
facebook.com/Nest.
Lounge.09XuanDieu
The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of

bar that will attract expats.
It does. But thanks to the
Vietnamese atmosphere,
theres a nice mix of local
and foreign over the three
floors of lounge seating, DJ
booths and dance areas.
The views here are pretty
eye-catching, too.
THE REPUBLIC
MODERN SPORTS BAR
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:

0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range
bar and eatery showing
live sport and boasting a
convivial atmosphere. Has
a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts,
daily specials and a popular
second-floor outdoor terrace.
THE ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B

Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
therooftop.vn
The first up-on-high bar and

restaurant in the capital and
still a leader in its field. With
DJs spinning EDM and great
views of the city, this is a
must for a more Vietnamese,
top-shelf experience.
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:

0904 886266
The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender,
Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a
small bar area and an attractive seating space out front.
Now, as for the cocktails
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL

(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
A miniscule sports bar on

the main drag of Xuan Dieu
is perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front on
plastic stools. Notorious for
its burgers, cooked fresh to
order, Tracys is also famous
for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi.
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
vuvuzela.com.vn
When Vuvuzela opened up,

mixing the Hooters concept
from the US with a beer hall,
drinking food and a DJ booth,
it created the start of a new
scene beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh
Tong is still going strong, but
its so popular that its best to
book your table in advance.
For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.
CAFES
ANNAM CAFE
DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,

Tay Ho
A trendy, deli-style caf connected to Annam Gourmet
next door. Bright and fresh
dcor is complemented by
shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and
cafeteria-style furniture. An
eye-catching temptation for
weary shoppers.
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3934 1494
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different
western dishes at reasonable
prices. Loaded with booths
and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to
squash a sandwich or bowl
of pasta and people watch.
They also do coffee.
COFFEE BEAN
AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
This American-style chain

cafe is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
BAR STOOL
RESS
ESS bar looks like what happens

when a group of artists buy a
house, chop it in half, and make
it into an M.C. Escher painting.
There are courtyards and terraces and
stairs that are half indoors, half outdoors
(a glass roof covers part of the building), a
koi pond with steps in it to get to the stairs
and toilets, and a wall of hanging plants.
Every corner you turn reveals a new niche
with seats and pillows. It has a games room
with table football, darts and two video
game consoles (a PlayStation and an oldschool Nintendo), as well as decks of cards
on some of the tables. Paintings line (and are
occasionally painted directly on) the walls,
which are made from different materials in
different parts of the bar; scrubbed wood
here, bricks or stones there. When I went I
felt like an explorer in a funhouse.
House of Fun
The chilled-out, artsy vibe of the bar helped
make a drizzly, cold Saturday night fun
and relaxing; although it seemed somewhat
PHOTOS BY DUY KHANH
empty at first, with only a handful of other

patrons downstairs, I kept finding people in
various rooms, hanging out and chatting and
listening to the excellent music provided by
the DJs.
Their menu offers a surprising variety;
much like the decor, there is a little of
everything, including sodas and smoothies,
juices, coffees, bar snacks, spaghetti, fried
rice, sandwiches and shisha.
My first cocktail was a strong and tasty
whisky sour that cost me a very reasonable
VND65,000, while my friend had a Tiger
draught beer (VND35,000). They also offer
a much cheaper Larue draught for only
VND15,000. We sat at the black-topped
bar to drink them, on black leather swivel
chairs that made me feel like I was an evil
character in an Austin Powers film (the blue
lighting on the underside of the bar certainly
helped). My friend found a piece of white
chalk and started drawing on the bar, which
is presumably what the chalk was there for
(we hope). Even if it wasnt, nobody said
anything.
Only Connect
Trung, one of the owners, tells me that the
concept for the bar is a place to relax and
connect with people and cultures from all
over the world. He wants anyone to be able
to come in, hang out and be comfortable,
just like in their own homes.
He means it, too if you want to
decorate, go right ahead. Patrons are
allowed to paint, graffiti, or otherwise
artistically vandalise the walls in the
courtyard and on the third floor, because
as Trung says, This is your house... when
you come back, you will see your artwork
again.
RESS has been open for five months,
although it still feels new. The name stands
for Reunion of Every Single Star, and is
reminiscent of the word rest, which is what
the bar is all about. It really does have all of
the comforts of home, except my home is
not nearly as cool. Ill definitely be back.
Kate Robinson
RESS is located at 111 Trinh Cong Son, Tay
Ho, Hanoi
COFFEE CUP
THE CHURCH
he Church is the sort of place

that demands to be seen. No
trendy little hole-in-the-wall caf
is this it oozes luxury with
its shining, full-length glass windows
and its dark polished wood furniture, a
bubble of refinement in the hubbub of
Nha Tho Street. As soon as I saw it, I felt
underdressed, but the staff welcomed me
with wide, warm smiles.
The space inside was comfortable and
quiet. High ceilings and spare walls were
illuminated by hanging clusters of big light
bulbs with those popular long filaments
that make cool patterns and give off a dim,
warm glow. Everyone was well dressed, and
the other customers and the staff spoke in
hushed voices, almost like in a real church.
The whole place shone with newness and
with the sort of simple elegance that is rarely
achieved here, where ostentatiousness is
often mistaken for class. I settled on a couch
in a cozy corner and ordered a ginger, lemon
and lemongrass tea (VND80,000) from the
extensive menu, which includes mocktails

and smoothies (VND89,000) as well as food
and alcoholic drinks.
Steeped
The tea was bright and crisp, steeped with
house-made syrup and fresh ingredients,
and they brought the honey on the side.
Instead of a spoon to stir the honey, it came
with a stalk of fresh lemongrass, which I
thought was a lovely touch, and as soon as
I had finished the clear pot of tea a waiter
appeared to refill it with hot water. They get
the details right at The Church.
Yet amid all this elegance there are brief
moments of unpretentious personality, some
good, others less so: a bartender juggling
limes in his silk waistcoat; a waiter leaning
his head against the speaker but listening to
a hip-hop tune on his phone, louder than the
tinkling background piano music; several
mosquitos floating around nearby that
somehow didnt bite me (perhaps they were
after richer blood); the restroom, which is
reached via a corridor packed with unused

chairs and bowls still wrapped in plastic.
These moments served to throw
into sharper relief the high level of
professionalism at The Church. The service
is top-notch, with friendly staff who are
attentive without crowding or becoming
irritating, and the atmosphere is relaxing,
especially considering the location (near
the cathedral in one of the busiest parts
of Hanoi), all very impressive for a place
that only opened in December. Although
there were only a handful of customers
when I arrived, it was starting to fill up
only an hour later, so it is already becoming
popular.
The Church has the feel of a much more
mature establishment. With such a good
start I suspect it will be around for quite
some time; if you ever feel like being fancy
without being pretentious, you know where
to go. Kate Robinson
The Church is located at 1 Nha Tho, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
Hanoi
On the Town
and office feel, when you

walk in you might just forget
that youre in Hanoi.
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba

Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem;
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
congcaphe.com
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this

quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one of
the many different types of
tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the
Spartan cups in one of the
hippest caf chains in town.
DALICE
BOUTIQUE CAFE
89 Trieu Viet Vuong,

Hai Ba Trung
Put together coffee and cake
and you get one of those
timeless combinations. And
if you really want to binge on
the cake-end, then check out
dAlice and its quirky interior.
Perfect for that more modern
combination of sweet tooth
and iThingy.
DUY TRI
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,

Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
and pan-Asian mains.
With numerous locations

around town, what originally
started as a fourth-floor joint
overlooking the lake has
become one of the most
popular, home-grown cafes
in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
highlandscoffee.com.vn
JOMA
COFFEE/BAKERY

Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To
Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6071
joma.biz
Popular caf with a contemporary western feel to

the counter-style service
and atmosphere. The food
is all there, too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes 2
percent of each sale to charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 0216
One of the longest-running
cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills caf-cumrestaurant home-makes its
patisseries and is renowned
for its excellent yoghurt.
HANOI COOKING
CENTRE CAF
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
This spacious spot on Food
Street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired
comfort food along with more
eclectic Irish nachos, cottage
pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the
no-smoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, especially
late at night.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE

Tel: (04) 3933 2355
This cafe and French-style
boulangerie is best visited
in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery
aroma hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a
small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa
seating. Simple but tasty
French and international
fare is served at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR
VIETNAMESE CAF
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

The longest-running caf in
the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is
simplicity at its finest. Even
the coffee here sticks to its
roots its made using the
same blend of Arabica and
Robusta cooked up by its
founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.
PUKU
MANZI ARTSPACE
ARTS CAF & GALLERY
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3716 3397
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,

Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events

space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed in
a converted colonial-era villa, a
continuous flow of exhibitions,
talks, experimental music and
game shows make up the mix
here. Great cuisine, too.
Cloistered among the back

streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
MAISON DE TET DCOR
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
LIFESTYLE CAFE
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
facebook.com/manzihanoi
COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh

Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a
covered roof terrace with a
Vietnamese ca phe, Italian
coffee, beer, wine or freshly
squeezed juice. Order from a
seasonally changing menu or
try one of the all-day breakfast
specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.
HANOI HOUSE
HIDEAWAY CAFE
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su,

Hoan Kiem
Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this
hidden away family house
caf is one of those gems
synonymous with Hanoi.
Quiet, intimate and simple,
the staff will treat you like
youre a guest in their home.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722
On-site coffee roasting,
comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and dcor, and a focus
on healthy, non-processed
foods. This is the concept
behind Maison de Tet Dcor,
and its a popular one, too,
as witnessed by the size of
the clientele. Also run occasional farmers markets.
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 2117
A cozy midsize caf/restaurant where you can forget

the heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and here you can imagine,
for a second, that youre
sitting in a European caf.
The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has
an excellent top-floor terrace.
MOC CAFE
YOLO
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334
Set in a slightly run down
colonial villa, the faded but
charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops
Boasting an abundance of
communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances,
this rollicking caf-slash-bar
has quickly earned a place in
the hearts of Hanois young
and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly
quirky, its endearing use of

recycled furniture antiques
and colourful artwork create
a vibrant atmosphere
make for a popular hangout.
Open 24 hours.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
A vegetarian and vegan cafe

respecting the philosophy of
yoga simple living, mindful
thinking. Using 100 percent
natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked
using the minimal amount
of oil. The stress is instead
on eating whole food in its
natural state.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
AMATO
TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE
1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01227 367470
Located next to Binh Minh
Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion
tapas bar by night and a
French restaurant during the
day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers
an international dining and
drinking experience in the
heart of Hanoi.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria
offering all-you-can-eat
grilled meat and seafood on
the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodzio fashion, waiters
bring cuts of meat to the
table for patrons to pick and
choose, all for a set price.
They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la
carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas.
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3821 5342
Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall
caf and restaurant that
has served up up a Western
menu since the late 1990s.
Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed
down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.
CHOPS
GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

6292 1044
chopsvietnam.com
Finally Hanoi has a dedicated

gourmet burger joint, and
this West Lake eatery with its
fan-cooled atmosphere get it
just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served
up with locally brewed craft
beer, and this ones a bit of
a winner.
COUSINS
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,

Tel: 01238 670098
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine

at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and an
outdoor terrace overlooking
the lake make up the formula.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai

Mai, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6317
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and
coconut caf on West Lake
has all the right ingredients
to become a classic. Run by
the long time former manager of Luna DAutunno, it
features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian
delicacies. Open every day
for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese

in the Xuan Dieu area on
West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining
with a classy, Middle-Eastern
twist, as well as wine, tapas,
events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH
AMERICAN
16 Quang An, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
This lake-facing venue with

its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done
well, the main restaurant
menu includes anything from
wood-grilled rare tuna steak
with fragrant Chinese black
bean beurre noir to gourmet
pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
With venues in Saigon and

Bangkok, the essence of El
Gaucho is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay the USDA
cuts are to die for but
everything from chicken,
pork and seafood is also up
for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low,
subtle lighting, an extensive
wine list and slick service.
Theres a reason El Gaucho is
so successful everythings
being taken care of.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3716 2959
foodshop45.com
Lakeside location and low

bamboo seating, this eatery
is one of the most popular
Indians in town. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.
FRENCH GRILL
na-styled restaurant. Serving

up an enticing mix of classic
and contemporary French
cuisine, blended in with
Vietnamese ingredients and
cooking styles, the resultant
fare has had customers coming back again and again. A
traditional Vietnamese and
kids menu is also available,
as is a wine list focusing
mainly on French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat
Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3771 6372
The home of Son Tinh liquor,
Highway 4 is also known for
its communal dining and
ethnic food menu taking in
dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam.
Try out their catfish spring
rolls. Phenomenal!
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho

Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the

ashes, so India Palace has
once again returned to Tay Ho,
this time on the strip between
Dons and The Warehouse.
Tasty North Indian fare in a
pleasant environment from
the team behind Tandoor.
TOP-END GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc

Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem,
Tel: (04) 3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in

wine cooler and a delectable
seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service
experience with crafted food
difficult to find in the capital.
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you
as you walk into this French
era-built villa that houses the
main section of this Indochi-
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3758 2400
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are not
the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater
for large parties or dinner
functions. Periodic buffets and
drink specials are also offered.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus
on steak. Has three floors all
with different vibes, the kind
of slick service youd expect
from the Al Frescos Group
and an extensive wine list.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba

Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
Recently refurbished, the

Australian-influenced Jaspas
is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. Popular with both
the western and Asian expat
communities who come back
again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of
western and Asian cooking.
The cocktails come large and
the wine is mainly New World.
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da,

Tel: (04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
The restaurant arm of Koto,

an F&B training school for
disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European
cuisine is served over four big
floors of restaurant space. Its
cushioned, comfortable and
has a rooftop terrace, too.
Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo
Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken
Kievs and sandwiches all
under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
Not to be mistake for a sushi
joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese
working persons rice eatery.
Has a bar area downstairs
and booth-like seating on
the upper floors.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3942 4509
labadiane-hanoi.com
On entering La Badiane, you

are instantly caught by the
multitude aromas coming
from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf
plants, and predominantly
white walls, the customer is
struck by this venues calm
and elegance. Although the
dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great
attention is also paid to the
ambience so you can enjoy
every aspect of your meal.
Voted one of Miele Guides
Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.
namese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15

Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
The Metropoles signature
restaurant serving up both
classic and contemporary
French fare. Buffet options
mix with an a la carte menu
and an ambience that could
be straight out of Paris.
LINGUINI FINI
ITALIAN-AMERICAN
LA BICICLETA
BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is

the only eatery where it is
authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as
well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto
de Verano, carajillos and
sangria. Also known for its
moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.
36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3266 8968
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
With branches in Hong Kong

and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini
Fini pulls no punches with
its first outlet in Vietnam.
Sleek modern dcor, high
quality cuisine, home-made
pasta, reasonable prices and
dishes cooked up with the
freshest ingredients available
are part of the deal, as are
some damn fine pizzas.
LUNA DAUTUNNO
dim sum menus and set

menus. Reservations recommended.
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 6288
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Boasts an extensive
wine list and a traditional
wood fire oven.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,

Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
A fine dining destination
at the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
CLASSIC ITALIAN
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3995 0950
lasalsa-hanoi.com
A small but eternally popular

Spanish-themed caf and bar
with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses
such as veal, and duck with
currant sauce. Known for its
good, European-style coffee
and first-floor terrace area
with views over the cathedral.
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823

7338
lunadautunno.vn
This old-favourite Italian

uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses. Has regular
live music and a great Italian wine list.
MAY MAN CHINESE
CUISINE
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3944 6317
PAN-CHINESE
Situated in an art-deco villa,

this establishment is run by
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle
Vietnamese touches on the
dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class
customers with quality Viet-
fortuna.vn
verticale-hanoi.com
MILLENIUM-CAF DES
ARTS
PAN-FRENCH
11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3828 7207
cafe-des-arts.com
A contemporary and chic

three-storey restaurant with
a terrace and views over one
of Hanois best-known alleys.
Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras,
lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini.
Does an excellent set menu
and also has a daily specials
board.
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,

Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
MOOSE AND ROO
Elegant and luxurious, May

Man has long been regarded
as one of the best Chinese
restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with
dim sum, May Man boasts
extensive a la carte menus,
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,

Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together
with a nice bar area. Best
known for their Scotch egg,
poutine and burgers. Clever
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN
RESTAURANT
TOP EATS
SALMONOID
udging by their internet presence,

youd think Salmonoid was the
work of an established restaurateur,
with years of experience crafting
culinary brands. Homing like a salmon,
says their website; a motto with a more
literal interpretation than Id expected.
Because its not some flashy commercial
enterprise after all, but rather, a family
passion project.
I met with sisters-in-law Doan Binh Giang
and Le Ngoc Quynh one afternoon in the
restaurants elegant dining room, little spots
of sunlight illuminating the wine glasses
and silverware in front of us. The brick walls
are painted white, with skinny black pipes
that end in round, glowing orbs of light,
embodying a clean, geometric style crafted
by their friend and architect, Le Nguyen

Tien Thanh, who designed everything, even
down to the tables and chairs.
Giang, a loquacious 25-year-old in a
t-shirt and red lipstick, explained that it was
29-year-old Quynhs travels and passion for
food that initially inspired the endeavour.
While studying in France, Quynhs favourite
restaurant just so happened to be a bistro
that specialised in salmon. She longed to
bring the concept to Vietnam and give
it an international twist, so in June 2015,
Salmonoid was hatched.
The owners of this restaurant are all
young, my brother, sister-in-law, me and two
friends, explained Giang. When we first
started, we all had other jobs, and we still
do now. When I asked how they managed
to juggle all of this, she smiled. Instead

of taking our lunch, we come here! This
dedication is evident in the food carefully
crafted with the goal of making culinary art
accessible for everyone.
Say it with Salmon

The starter was a saffron salmon bisque
(VND100,000), creamy and savoury, with
drizzled cream and a stalk of greenery
adding an attractive contrast of colour. The
soup was accented with soft, homemade
bread of a similar hue (saffron being the
culprit here, though I secretly hoped theyd
figured out a way to make salmon bread).
A salmon kumquat salad (VND140,000)
counteracted the soups richness, juicy
pieces of sesame-coated salmon artfully
arranged between little hills of leafy greens,

kumquats, and gboma, a small green relative
of the aubergine and a signature ingredient
in Vietnamese cuisine, often served pickled.
As we waited for the main course, I asked
Giang about their chef. She said that 29-yearold Nguyen Hai Ha learned to cook at Hoa
Sua, a training restaurant that teaches culinary
skills to disadvantaged youth. Now with 10
years of kitchen experience, Ha works with
Quynh to design internationally-inspired
seasonal menus, using imported Norwegian
salmon and fresh Vietnamese ingredients.
Our entree was Salmonoids version of
surf and turf Australian steak drizzled
with a tangy pepper sauce, accompanied by
a grilled salmon filet on a bed of ratatouille
and herbed potato pure (VND290,000).
Hearty and well-rounded, this dish satisfies

without weighing you down. Which is lucky,
because I needed more stomach space for
Salmonoids signature orange-marinated
salmon with dill and pepper (VND130,000),
served with a velvety cream cheese spread
and an array of sauces like sweet balsamic,
chili aioli and a house-made mustard.
Not Overwhelmed
Youd think Id want anything but salmon
at this point, but when those fresh, raw
slices melt in your mouth, the sauce variety
keeps things interesting, and all the dishes
are so distinctly different, its hard to get
bored. We ended this salmon feast with
a surprise dessert creme brle with a
layer of smashed lotus hiding underneath
(VND80,000) a delicious edible analogy

for this unique brand of culinary fusion.
Expats and Vietnamese alike come to
Salmonoid for the food, but the restaurant
has another tantalizing draw romance.
Giangs eyes sparkled as she leaned across
the table with important news.
Im very happy to say that weve
already had three proposals! she grinned.
Something about this place appeals to
Hanois lovers. It must have been the
twinkling lights on the rooftop terrace,
those post-wine-and-dine endorphins, and
spoonfuls of that lavishly sweet lotus. Or,
you know, maybe they just love salmon.
Jesse Meadows
Salmonoid is at 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
SNAKE BITES
ietnams wildlife is as diverse as

it is beautiful. In fact, Vietnam
alone boasts more than 11,000
species of animals. As beautiful
as these are, it is important to recognize
the dangers that wildlife can bring and
be prepared for any eventuality.
Snakes in particular pose a danger to
both humans and domestic pets around
Vietnam, with over 30,000 bites reported
each year. As the cities expand and
encroach on surrounding countryside and
wetlands, we find ourselves living in close
proximity to our reptilian friends.
Vietnam has over 140 known species
of snakes, with around 30 being classed
as venomous. It is important to educate
yourself and those around you in what to do
if you or a member of your family is bitten.
Prevention is Better than Cure

Unfortunately there is no definite way
to identify a venomous snake, as many
have evolved to look similar to those
non-venomous, so treat all as potentially
dangerous.
Do not give snakes a place to hide
around your home. Keep grass short
and clear low bushes. Keep rubbish
away from the home and garden as this
attracts rodents that snakes hunt for food.
Water sources such as ponds or disused
swimming pools will attract frogs and

toads, another food source for snakes.
Many species are nocturnal, so use a light
when walking in your garden or yard at
night.
Avoid these creatures where possible, do
not try to capture or handle them. Snakes
do not generally confront large animals
(including humans) unless provoked, so if
you see a snake, quietly back away to safety
and allow it to slither away.
Should you or someone close to you be
bitten, knowledge of effective first aid can
be life-saving.
What to Do
Reassure the victim.
Lay the victim down, and if possible
immobilize the bitten limb with a splint
or sling and keep it below heart level.
By keeping still, you can limit muscular
contraction therefore decreasing the
absorption of venom into the blood stream.
Remove rings, watches and
constrictive clothing in case of swelling.
If possible, try to remember what the
snake looked like; size, colour and type if
you know it, to advise the doctor once you
reach a medical facility. Do not attempt to
catch or kill the snake. It is important to
note that a severed snakehead can still bite
and inject venom.
BY ALI CANNON
Lastly, get the victim to a hospital as

quickly as possible. This may be by taxi, car
or ambulance. If by ambulance, first calm
the victim, then call the ambulance and
continue to administer first aid once help is
on the way.
It is important to note that snake antivenom is a controlled substance in Vietnam
as in many other countries. Your nearest
medical facility will be unlikely to have
anti-venom on site; however they will be
able to stabilize the victim and assist to get
them to the nearest poisons unit.
What Not to Do
Do not apply a tourniquet to the injured
limb. This can cause extreme pain and
permanent vascular damage to the limb.
Do not attempt to suck out the venom.
Do not attempt to make cuts or
incisions around the bite.
Do not interfere with or vigorously
wash the wound.
By sticking to this simple guide you
could save the life of yourself or someone
around you that has been bitten.
Ali Cannon (RGN) is the clinic manager
of International SOS Hanoi. For information
or assistance call (04) 3934 0666 (Hanoi),
(08) 3829 8520 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (064)
385 8776 (Vung Tau). Alternatively, click on
internationalsos.com
Hanoi
On the Town
changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO
SMOKEHOUSE
AMERICAN GRILL
The American Club, 19-21 Hai

Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3939 2470
mooseandroo.com
Theres a reason for Smokehouses

popularity the excellent, on-site
smoked meats together with all
the typical, American-style sides.
Set in the American Club, dining is
both indoors and out, and comes
with the best bourbon selection
in town.
NAMASTE HANOI
PANE E VINO
THE CART
PAN-ITALIAN
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF
facebook.com/panevinoHN
thecartfood.com
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 9080
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi
Opera House, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food and has
done for as long as anyone can
remember. Renowned for the
highly rated, oven fresh pizzas
and large variety of pasta and
salad dishes look forward to
fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff and
a loveable owner.
namastehanoi.com
The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern

and southern India using Halal
meat throughout. Hosted by the
gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost
you between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything is
there, from curries and breads
to soups and desserts.
NAN N KABAB
Tel: 0922 087799
Specialising in Pakistani cuisine
and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo
tabled, laid back eatery also sells
fare from Afganistan and India.
In a sentence? Curry, but not as
you know it.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,

Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
Named after the completion

date of the Hanoi Opera House,
this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of
elegance, luxury and mystery.
The cuisine mixes international
fare with twists on Vietnamese
cuisine and comes complete with
a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3747 8337
hanoixua.vn/en
Gordon Ramsay once filmed

a show at this restaurant in a
renovated French villa and now
the ribs carry his namesake. But
its the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls
and miniature vegetarian banh
xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the
train tracks a standout.
Small cozy caf and sandwich

bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
BUN BO NAM BO
BUN BO NAM BO
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

BUN CHA DAC KIM
BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67

Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)
COM RANG DUA BO
THE KAFE
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
PIZZA 4PS
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01208 034444
pizza4ps.com
Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired

pizzas that break all the rules,
the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4Ps is
as popular as its Saigon branch, a
restaurant that has been greeted
by accolades by all asunder. All
pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local
ingredients.
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi,

Tel: (04) 3935 2400
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
POTS N PANS
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel:

(04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from

Hanois own KOTO, this unique
fine dining restaurant, bar and
lounge blends the old with the
new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine,
like profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private chefs
table with a kitchen view, and
an extensive wine list combined
with modern formal styling bring
a unique experience to Hanoi.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
Wooden flooring, paneling and

bold but subtle colours pervade
this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue
close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts a bar
area, two private dining rooms,
including a wine room, a library
and a vast selection of cigars, all
in an elegant atmosphere
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
MIEN TRON HANH

MIXED GLASS NOODLES
Spacious, casual, energetic and

beautifully designed, The KAfe
serves up unfussy comfort food
that aims to satisfy the modern
urban diner. Preparing fresh food
and drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours
from around the globe, this caf-cum-restaurant is a popular
choice for Hanois metrosexual
community.
7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
WRAP & ROLL

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
PHO CUON HUNG BEN
MY VAN THAN
WONTON NOODLES
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO BO CU CHIEU
PHO BO
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
PHO CUON
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,

Ba Dinh
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright

pastel colours of Wrap n Roll are
just part of the theme of this
homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi the
second in Royal City.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT
HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN
247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904

356561
zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe
A vegetarian and vegan caf

connected to Zenith Yoga that
respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and
100 percent natural ingredients,
all the food here is served up
without additional additives or
MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are
made in house.
STREETFOOD
PHO GA BA LAM
PHO GA
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GA HANG DIEU
PHO GA
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN
PHO BO
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem

PHO LY QUOC SU
PHO BO
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

PHO THIN LO DUC
SAUTEED BEEF PHO
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung

PHO TRON
MIXED PHO
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma

May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom,
Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can,
Hoan Kiem
3 CHI EM
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning

when that Gallic, fresh-cooked
aroma of bread, croissants and
patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French and
international fare is served at
meal times.
PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
PHO TU LUN
PHO BO
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

BANH CUON HANG GA
BANH CUON
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem
XOI HANG HOM

STICKY RICE
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

BANH DA TRON
BANH DA TRON
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

BANH MI 25
STREETSIDE BANH MI
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

BIT TET NGON SO 5
VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
hieu
Nh a
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WINTER CLOTHINGS
Hang Da D4
Thuy Le
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Nha Tho D4
TAN
WEDDING SERVICES
Hang Than C4
GIAY
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Can Go D4, D5
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Hang Buom D4
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Nguyen Van Ngoc
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Hang Can D4
Ng
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Dong Xuan Market C4
NG
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SPORTSWEAR
Hang Dau D5
CAU
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GIA
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HO
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Quan Hoa
CRAFTS
Hang Trong D4
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Hang Bac D4
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HOANG QUOC VIET
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COOKING INGREDIENTS
Tay Ho Weekend Market A2
Vo
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Hang Gai D4
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COMPUTERS
Ly Nam De D4
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Nguyen Khanh Toan D1
Dam Tr
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Hang Dong D4
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Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2
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Hang Khoai C4
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MOBILE PHONES
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Hang Dieu D4
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Hang Chao D3
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Nguyen Ho
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Hang Vai D4
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D5
Pham Hong Thai

Pham Huy Thong
Pham Su Manh
Phan Boi Chau
Phan Dinh Phung
Phan Huy Chu
Phan Ke Binh
Pho Duc Chinh
Phuc Tan
Phuc Xa
Phung Chi Kien
Phung Hung
Quan Hoa
Quan Su
Quan Thanh
Quang An
Quang Ba
Quang Trung
Quoc Tu Giam
So 1
So 9
Son Tay
Ta Hien
Tan Ap
Tay Ho
Thanh Cong
Thanh Nien
Tho Nhuom
Thuoc Bac
Thuy Khue
To Ngoc Van
Ton Duc Thang
Tong Dan
Tong Duy Tan
Tran Binh Trong
Tran Hung Dao
Tran Huy Lieu
Tran Khanh Du
Tran Nguyen Han
Tran Phu
Tran Quang Khai
Tran Quoc Toan
Tran Vu
Trang Thi
Trang Tien
Trich Sai
Trinh Hoai Duc
Truc Bach
Tu Hoa Cong Chua
Van Bao
Van Cao
Van Mieu
Van Phuc
Ve Ho
Ven Ho
Vong Ha
Vong Thi
Vu Thanh
Xuan Dieu
Xuan La
Yen Ninh
Yen Phu
Yet Kieu
an
Xu
19 - 12
An Duong
An Thanh 1
An Trach
An Xa
Au Co
Au Trieu
Ba Trieu
Bach Dang
Bach Dang
Bao Linh
Bat Su
Ben Nhat Ban
Bich Cau
Cao Ba Quat
Cao Nam
Cat Linh
Cau Dat
Cau Giay
Cau Go
Chau Long
Chua Lang
Chua Mot Cot
Chuong Duong Do
Co Tam
Co Xa
Cua Bac
Cua Nam
Da Tuong
Dang Dung
Dang Tat
Dang Thai Mai
Dang Thai Than
Dang Tran Con
Dao Tan
Dien Bien Phu
Dinh Cong
Dinh Le
Dinh Liet
Dinh Tien Hoang
Doan Thi Diem
Doc Lan
Doc Lap
Doi Can
Dong Quan
Dong Xuan
Duong Buoi
Duong Quan Ham
Duong Thanh
Gam Cau
Gia Ngu
Giang Van Minh
GianG Vo
Hai Ba Trung
Ham Long
Ham Tu Quan
Hang Can
Hang Bac
Hang Bai
Hang Be
Hang Bong
Hang Bun
Hang Buom
Hang Chieu
Hang Cot
Hang Da
Hang Dao
Hang Dau
Hang Dieu
Hang Dong
Hang Duong
Hang Ga
Hang Gai
Hang Khoai
Hang Luoc
Hang Ma
Hang Nam
Hang Ngang
Hang Non
Hang Than
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D4
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Hanoi
Map
1
Hang Trong
Hang Vai
Hang Voi
Hao Nam
Hoa Lo
Hoa Nam
Hoang Dieu
Hoang Hoa Tham
Hoang Quoc Viet
Hoang Van Thu
Hoe Nhai
Hung Vuong
Khuc Hao
Kim Ma
Kim Ma Thuong
La Thanh
Lac Long Quan
Lang Ha
Le Duan
Le Hong Phong
Le Lai
Le Phung Hieu
Le Thach
Le Thai To
Le Thanh Tong
Lieu Giai
Linh Lang
Lo Su
Luong Van Can
Ly Nam De
Ly Quoc Su
Ly Thuong Kiet
Ly Van Phuc
Ma May
Nam Ngu
Nghi Tam
Nghia Dung
Ngo Tram
Ngo Van So
Ngoc Ha
Ngoc Khanh
Ngoc Thuy
Nguyen Bieu
Nguyen Canh Chan
Nguyen Chi Thanh
Nguyen Cong Hoan
Nguyen Dinh Hoan
Nguyen Hoang Ton
Nguyen Hong
Nguyen Khac Nhu
Nguyen Khanh Toan
Nguyen Khiet
Nguyen Khuyen
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Nguyen Tri Phuong
Nguyen Tu Gian
Nguyen Van Ngoc
Nha Chung
Nha Tho
Nhat Chieu
Nui Truc
Nuoc Phan Lan
Ong Ich Khiem
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Vo
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T R AN
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Vietnam Fine
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Hanoi
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Ho Chi Minh City
Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Coffee Cup / Amazing Grapes /
Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good
Photo by Francis Xavier
HCMC
Essentials
BAKERIES
ABC BAKERY
BAKERY & CAF
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
Baguettes, croissants, pizza,

cakes, muffins, donuts and
brownies, this bakery and
caf all in one is a popular stop for those heading
through the Backpacker
District. Online ordering
available.
BREAD TALK
CHAIN BAKERY
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7
interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they

opened in the US, 2005 in
China and 2007 in Vietnam.
French-styled with an Asian
touch, the bare-brick dcor
makes this a popular joint.
Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.
HARVEST BAKING
AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
With a production facility in

Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and
non-retail trade, cooking up
the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has
an excellent home delivery
service. Check the website
for details.
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
TOUS LES JOURS
BAKERY & CAFE
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran

Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen
Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho,
Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
touslesjoursbakery.com
The background of this Korean bakery chain makes
pnc.com.vn
Although there are some

English-language texts in
this modern, well laid out
bookstore, the focus here
is on all things Vietnamese.
Worth checking out, thought,
for the occasional gem.
M M M
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling

probably the tastiest range of
patisseries, breads, quiches
and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is a
must try.
M M M
breadtalkvietnam.com
A Singaporean bakery chain

that is vying for the Vietnam
cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious,
airy atmosphere. Has eight
locations and counting.
Thanh Ton, Q1
BOOKSHOPS
FAHASA
VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE
BOOKSTORE
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le

Loi, Q1
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of

English language books in
a range of reading areas
this multi-storied bookshop
also does stationery, toys
and a range of related products. Has a good selection of
ESL texts.
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE
NAM PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002
in Ho Chi Minh City as the
first and only francophone
bookshop in the whole of
Vietnam. Only books written
in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes.
A catalogue is available at
namphongsaigon.com
PNC
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE
BOOKSTORE
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor

Parkson Center, 35-45 Le
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
GROUP
6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M
CLOTHING &
ACCESSORIES
BUSINESS GROUPS
ANUPA ECO LUXE
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (AMCHAM)
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
LEATHER & JEWELLERY
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am
to 8pm
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER
OF COMMERCE
(AUSCHAM)
2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
This centrally located unique

boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails the
complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP

OF VIETNAM (BBGV)
3829 8430
BAM SKATE SHOP
auschamvn.org
bbgv.org
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (CANCHAM)
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the

Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS
GROUP VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903

641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

2210 2084
GINKGO
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG
PLAZA
126 Hung Vuong, Q5.

Tel: (08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton,

Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521

8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
SHOPPING
MALLS
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:

0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,

Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)

3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
BUSINESS BUFF
EXPENSIVE FAST FOOD
s my ample belly
will attest I do like
to eat and while of
late I have tried to
eat in a more healthy way,
the sweet siren call of fast
food (and the growing list of
options of in Ho Chi Minh City)
is making the battle a difficult
one. That being said, over a
delicious burger and fries this
month I looked into some of
the fancier and more expensive
fast food options around the
world. No surprises most
come from our obese cousins
in the US.
Camilleri says that they came

up with their expensive pizza
to draw attention to the
quality of our food. Indeed,
the thin-crust pizza is quite
an attention grabber, topped
with buffalo mozzarella, white
truffles and 24-carat gold. It
has to be ordered a week in
advance and at last report had
been ordered twice.
Fleur Burger
US$5000 / VND112.5 million
In the town of excess, Las
Vegas, Fleur Restaurants Fleur
Burger 5000 is made from
Japanese Wagyu beef and foie
gras. Its sauce is made from
truffles and shaved truffles
are sprinkled over the burger
which rests in a brioche truffle
bun. You also get a US$2,500
bottle of Chateau Petrus and a
Certificate of Authenticity with
your order.
Powder Room Milkshake

US$500 / VND11.25 million
The most expensive milkshake
was dreamed up by the Powder Room in Hollywood. At
US$500, it has Belgian chocolate, edible gold leaf and more
than a touch of liquor. Called
The Velvet Goldmine, the
drink is topped with a US$190
Swarovski ring.
Serendipity 3s Frrrozen
Hot Chocolate
Bloomsbury Gold
Phoenix Cupcake
US$1,000 / VND22.5 million
This time in Dubai the
Bloomsbury Gold Phoenix is
the most unadorned cupcake
in the world and is wrapped
in 23-carat gold and its flour
is imported from Italy. There
is a more expensive cupcake
at close to US$150,000, but
its value comes from being
covered in inedible diamonds and was made
for a fashion event in Edinburgh in 2010.
The Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae costs a mere VND22.5 million
side and its all eaten with a gold spoon.

The spoon however must be returned.
Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae New Yorks 230 Fifth Hot Dog
Back across the pond in New York City, this
time at the Serendipity 3 restaurant with
famous previous guests such as Marilyn
Monroe and Andy Warhol you can order
this sundae from owner Joe Calderone. The
Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae has
three to five scoops of Tahitian vanilla bean
ice cream and is covered in 23-carat edible
gold leaf. The gold leaf is flavourless, but
costs up to US$160 a gram. The chocolate
syrup that crowns this sundae is the most
expensive in the world and the candied
fruits that sit on top are imported from Paris.
Theres a bit of Grand Passion Caviar on the
BY SHANE DILLON
US$2,000 / VND45 million

This hot dog is infused with cognac and
sprinkled with mushroom dust and
lobster. The hot dog is made from aged
Wagyu Japanese beef. Its Vidalia onions are
caramelized in Dom Perignon champagne
and the sauerkraut is braised in Cristal
Champagne and caviar. The proceeds from
this indulgent hot dog go to charity.
Margos Pizzeria
This pizza is available in Malta, on the
Mediterranean costs by what many call the
best pizza shop in the world. Owner Claude

Back to Serendipity 3 in New
York for this most expensive
dessert on the list. The
Frrrozen Hot Chocolate. More
of a publicity stunt than a dish,
its hot chocolate thats frozen.
Made from over 14 different
types of cocoa with edible gold
and diamonds on top, it has
18 carat gold at the bottom,
together with an added
surprise a diamond bracelet.
Chocolate Pudding, Lindeth Howe

Country House Hotel
We reach the zenith of fancy junk food in
the UKs Lake District where we find a
US$35,000 chocolate pudding that looks
like a big brownie. Youve got to order this
monstrosity two weeks in advance after
forking out a hefty deposit. Combining
chocolate, gold and caviar, the hotel
owners claim it is the most expensive
dessert in the world. The chocolate
brownie is topped with champagne jelly
and edible gold leaf. Theres a two-carat
diamond on top.
After all this food writing Shane feels like
another burger and a nap. He can be contacted
at shanedillon@pacificcross.com
sophisticated clothing and

casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
AIRLINES
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
TAILOR-MADE SHOES

(08) 3827 5267
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING

3820 2620
9am to 10pm
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
232 Bui Vien, Q1
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
SAIGON COOKING
CLASSES BY HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local

specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an
English-speaking Vietnamese
chef, includes a trip around
Ben Thanh Market to gather
fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY
CENTRE
Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
papaya-tshirt.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE
T&V TAILOR
ATC FURNITURE
TAILORS
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)

3824 4556
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,

Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932
6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
3840 3946
triciaandverona.com
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:

0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
multinational cuisine days.
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CORPORATE GIFTS
AMBRIJ
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
A one-stop-shop concept
company providing marketing services including POSM,
corporate gifts and luxury
ranges of business gifts
from international brands
like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881,
Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,
Ungaro and more. Also do
event management services.
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
The Overland Club organises

pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
atc-craft.com
AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
This An Phu-based shop

stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so its limited and exclusive with only one or two
pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a

good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the
corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture
such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets
as well as numerous choices
of curtains and accessories.
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
POSITIVE BEGINNING: PART TWO
BY PHIL KELLY
Success is not a singular

act but a habit
ast month for western New Year I

discussed four key components of
how to make the best start to your
health and fitness efforts. Two
New Years allows a double opportunity to
start 2016 in the most positive way possible. If
you havent kick started your efforts yet, the
Lunar New Year provides a second chance.
Can the way you think about fat loss,
fitness and your body actually determine
your success? You bet it can a motivated
mind is the most powerful force in our lives
and a positive attitude during a weight
management, heath and fitness programme is
paramount.
It is a known fact that thoughts and
emotions affect the body for better or worse,
depending on your predominant thoughts
and emotions. Negative thinking, stress, fear,
excitement, worry and anger hurt the body.
Under these conditions the body releases
toxins into the blood, which affect it adversely.
Positive thinking, happiness, love and
confidence heal, strengthen and energize the
body. An excellent habit to get into is to write
a grateful diary every evening before bed.
The grateful diary is an exercise in viewing
the world or past day in a positive light. It
will put your life in perspective, reset your
brain to positive and refocus you on your
goals. Simply write down five things you
are grateful or thankful for from the past 24
hours and the five positive actions you are
going to accomplish the following day.
Positive thoughts radiate out and turn into

positive actions, which in turn create positive
habits. Positive habits will transform into
positive results. A positive outlook is essential
for positive change. Here are three more
essential actions to achieving your 2016 goals:
BE-Flexible is all about finding out what is

best for you, as we are all different we are
as chemically different internally as we are
physically different externally, so you need to
be flexible to fine-tune your diet and exercise
routines to get the best results for you.
5) BE-Committed
7) BE-Patient
If you really want something youll find

time for it time is never a valid excuse.
Losing fat and getting fit can be hard to
do and it may seem an insurmountable
goal, but commitment is everything when
youre trying to make positive change. Good
planning makes being committed easier, as it
limits the urge to detour from the plan once
temptation arises. Temptation will always
come so be sure to be prepared and stay
committed to your plan.
When it comes to body transformation and
health development there really is only one
question to answer: How much do I want
this?
Fat loss and fitness is not a linear process,

where progress will happen at a steady rate.
Rather, there will be peaks, troughs and
plateaus but the trend should be positive.
This is why it is not a good idea to measure
yourself too often, as you will see regular
fluctuations in the readings. Simply have
faith in your action plan and believe results
will happen.
Patience is essential, due to many different
daily/weekly influences and fluctuations.
For instance, you may experience a plateau
one week because of excess stress, not
enough sleep, menstrual cycle or fatigue. Its
important to stick to the plan, as success is
not a singular act but a habit. You are what
you do repeatedly and you need to be patient
to see the rewards come in.
Dont let 2016 be another year you dont
achieve your health and fitness desires. Build
a tough mindset and action plan to feel and
look your best.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or
at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through
Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
6) BE-Flexible
Fat loss is not a pre-set protocol that we can
just apply to, or that works for, everyone. Its
an individual process that needs to be altered
to suit your specific needs. Stay committed
to your goal while remaining flexible in the
approach you use to reach it. This is where
monitoring your progress is crucial. You
should be prepared to change what you are
doing if it is not achieving the desired results.
HCMC
Essentials
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture
such as bamboo-imitation
and mosaic table sets, while
the second level stocks all
types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are
found on the level above.
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:

(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 9459
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:

(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam.

Sells up budget bicycles to
high-end product, with the
full range of accessories in
between. Also stocks GT and
Cannondale.
SAIGON CYCLES
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1

Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08)
5410 3114
xedapcaocap.com
Specialising in Trek and Surly,

Saigon Cycles is also famed
for its Sunday morning rides.
Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle
repairs.
THE BIKE SHOP
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com
The go-to location for all your

cycling needs in District 2.
Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT
and Aluboo, as well as the
full selection of accessories.
Organises regular cycle rides,
does repairs and rentals.
Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.
M M M
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65

Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
DENTAL CLINICS
ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS
ELITE DENTAL GROUP.
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC,

Tel: (08) 3933 3737
THE FURNITURE
WAREHOUSE
Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped

clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants,
ALL-ON-6 implants, dental
implants, prosthodontics,
Invisalign & orthodontics.
Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you
an extremely comfortable
experience.
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
CYCLING
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for

two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
JETT CYCLES
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi

Sau, Q3
jett-cycles.com
The showroom home of Jett
info@elitedental.com.vn
elitedental.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS
DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
Globally renowned provider

of medical assistance and international healthcare offers
full dental services in the
clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high
HCMC
Essentials
skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC
MINH KHAI DENTAL

CLINIC
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
STARLIGHT
CLINIC
DENTAL

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 6222
24, Thao Dien,Q2
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with
extremely reasonable prices.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung
Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong
Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic

equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
MAPLE HEALTHCARE
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7

(across from FV Hospital), Tel:
Tel: (08) 5410 0100
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare,
dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the
latest technology together
with efficient and comfortable service.
M M M
GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS
GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Craig Thomas Gallery offers

a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established
local artists. In operation
since 2009, its founder has
been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now
has a second newer gallery
CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese

propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),

Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five

star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE

ARTS MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
Set in one of the finest

remaining buildings of
colonial-era Vietnam, this
multi-storey museum houses
collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has
regular exhibitions.
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY
BUTCHERS
1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
Focusing on the retail trade,

the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes
pre-prepared and, if you so
wish, pre-marinated. Sells
up some of the best imported meats in town together
with homemade sausages,
free-range products and
excellent Australian grassfed steak.
PHUONG HA
SAN ART
48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh,
Tel: (08) 6294 7059
san-art.org
San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition

space that offers residency
programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists /
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
GROCERY & DELI
1618 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious

Frenchowned grocery shop
stocking a large range of
foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town.
astere@hotmail.fr
ECCS (THE ENGLISH

CRICKET CLUB OF
SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
SAIGON RAIDERS
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET

CLUB OF SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB
RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
SPORTS GENERAL
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS

CLUB IN SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN
SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL
TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 1318
A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts
many a supermarket in this
country to shame. As well
as a dizzying selection of
imported foods, also sells
frozen meat and fish, fruit,
vegetables, herbs, spices
and a wide selection of dairy
products.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
ANNAM GOURMET
MARKET
CRICKET
richard.car rington@
market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with

artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
SPORTS
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral
water and spirits.
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB)

Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA

SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET

CLUB)
Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL & RUGBY

VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3823 8526
Courtesy of a farm in Dalat,
Veggys retails some of the
best quality fruit and veg
available in the city. Also
has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef
served up at El Gaucho.
AUSTRALIAN RULES
FOOTBALL
Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
Contact Fred on 0919 709
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500
171.
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
TORNADOS HOCKEY
CLUB
436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
XROCK CLIMBING
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
HAIRDRESSERS,
SALONS & SPAS
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies

and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
CONCEPT COIFFURE
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated

her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
FAME NAILS SALON
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages

lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
HAIR BAR
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a

good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent
treatments.
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
A District 2 favourite, this is
the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails.
Cheap prices, too.
SPA TROPIC
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the

refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HOSPITALS &
MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN
CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy,

acupuncture and foot care
treatments through the use
of cutting edge technology
for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries as well
as all types of foot related
problems without the need
of drugs or surgery.
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon

where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients
the opportunity to get their
hair done on the run. Of
course, they have to look
fabulous, too. Fortunately
this is one of Hair Bars specialities. Check the salon out
on Facebook: facebook.com/
hairbarvn.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a

peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents
and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural
French products in a clean
and pleasant environment.
AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105
Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
americaneyecentervn.com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My

Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children
by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with
17 years of experience. The
American-standard facility is
equipped with state of the
art equipments for the early
detection and treatment of
important eye diseases from
Lasik and cataract surgeries
to presbyopia, glaucoma
and diabetic eye disease
treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery
and Botox injections are also
available.
CENTRE MEDICAL
INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic

provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
FAMILY MEDICAL
PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000
vietnammedicalpractice.com
Fullservice 24hour healthcare provider with highly

qualified doctors handling
everything from emergencies to tests and Xrays, in
patient and outpatient care,
checkups, travel medicine
and medical evacuations.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon

South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08)
5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially maternity care.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial

Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French,

and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health
care. Plus sports medicine,
cosmetic treatments, skin
care and surgical consultations.
HANH PHUC
INTERNATIONAL
HOSPITAL
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong

Tel: (0650) 363 6068
hanhphuchospital.com
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in

Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts
of town is gaining a growing
reputation for service and
treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women
and children. Has a clinic at
97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
HCMC
Essentials
HAPPINESS (HANH
PHUC) ORIENTAL
MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,

Tel: 0906 684 969
INTERNATIONAL SOS
HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
The worlds leading provider

of medical assistance and international healthcare offers
primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is
available in many fields.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic

offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers a

broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL
MEDICINE HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3932 6579
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE
INSURANCE
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM
4th Floor, Continental Tower,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 9908
bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part

of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for a
free quote.
IF CONSULTING
IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinasia.com
Independent advisors that

represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
For emergencies call 0903
732365
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
1800 599 998
libertyinsurance.com.vn
International insurance firm

providing the full range of
services to the individual
car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home
insurance and much more.
NOAH JAMES
INSURANCE AGENCY
Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858
noahjamesinsurance.com
Skype: jp.global
A full service broker offering expatriates and local

Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel,
as well as speciality cover for
student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme
athletics and adventure. For
details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 4545
victoriavn.com
Well-regarded clinic offering

general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology,
womens health and internal
medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance
companies in Vietnam and
abroad.
TENZING PACIFIC
SERVICES
181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of

insurance solutions from the
best local and international
providers. Recommendations
are based exclusively on client needs.
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon
South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary),
Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British Government Inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8% of
schools worldwide. ABCIS
is accredited by CIE, AQA,
the Education Development
Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides
education for two to 18
year olds in a supportive
and friendly environment.
AUSTRALIAN
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960;
Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai
Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International

School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme
(including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU
1st and 2nd floor, Somerset
Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An
Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804
etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc
Following an international
curriculum for children aged
18 months to six years, in the
early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed,
inspired by the Reggio Emilia
Project of Northern Italy. It is
a play-based, inquiry model
in which children co-construct their learning in close,
respectful collaboration with
their teachers. This helps
us provide an environment
where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head
start in life.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved by

the British Government, BIS
provides a British style curriculum for an international
student body from pre-school
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,

funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING
189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids

in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet
and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and
a mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
to Year 13. The school is

staffed by British qualified
and trained teachers with
recent UK experience. Fully
accredited by the Council of
International Schools and a
member of FOBISIA, BIS is the
largest international school in
Vietnam.
EUROPEAN
HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2,
Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257
eishcmc.com
The European International

School offers a supportive
and challenging academic
education from Early Years
to Grade 12 based on the IB
curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the
Nobel Education Network.
The school educates global
citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
Energized Engaged Empowered
HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)
3898 9100
ishcmc.com
A fully accredited IB World

School, authorised to teach
all three programmes of the
International Baccalaureate
curriculum to students aged
2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully
accredited by both the Council of International Schools
(CIS) and the New England
Association of Schools and
Colleges (NEASC), two of the
most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different
nationalities.
CANADIAN
7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam

serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence. Has a
newly built campus.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON
79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08)
5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in

Phu My Hung offering crea-
tive play-based programmes

for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.
SAIGON SOUTH
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from

elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded education at all levels.
SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)
92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
issp.edu.vn
Set in a purpose-built campus, International School

Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an
elementary school catering for ages 18 months to
11 years. With 90 percent
of their teachers having
masters degrees, they are
able to promise a vigorous
American curriculum while
including specialist subjects
such as music, art, sport and
languages.
MONTESSORI
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with

their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three
to 12 a classic Montessori
education as well as a variety
of extracurricular activities.
RENAISSANCE
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum

based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350-seat
theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON KIDS
EDUCATIONAL
CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SKECC has evolved over 10

years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge International Primary

Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare

centre provides children ages
18 months to six years with
a high quality education in
a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
Accredited by the Western

Association of Schools and
Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and
provides an American-based
curriculum with rigorous
performance standards and
a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university
credit courses through their
partnership with Missouri
State University, as well as
an Intensive ESL Program for
English Language Learners.
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7237
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is

a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
HCMC
Essentials
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
NAM HOUSE
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental

properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web

based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
THE NEST
216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: 0938 580800
thenesthousing.com
Wellknown property search

and real estate agency with
a useful website listing properties available for rent and
sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English,
French and Spanish.
M M M
MOTORBIKES
CHIS CAF
RENTALS

Tel: 0903 643446
chiscafe.com
Probably the best-known

motorbike rental joint in
town with over 200 bikes
and a range of models and
makes. Rents by the day or
by the month. Call or check
the website for details. Also
does visa extensions.
SAIGON BIKE RENTALS
Tel: 0972 451273
nga.natalie@gmail.com
saigonbikerentals.com
Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves,

Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos,
Luvias, SYM Attilas and
Excels. Call for details and
prices.
SAIGON SCOOTER
CENTRE
RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690
saigonscootercentre.com
Just relocated to its new

home in District 2, Saigon
Scooter Centre is more than
just the place to go for all
your classic scooter needs.
Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and
bike rentals.
M M M
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in

human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT
RECRUITMENT JSC
1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS
VIETNAM CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room
2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
The best-known recruitment

website in Vietnam. Post
youre the position youre
looking for and wait for the
responses. Youll get many.
Also a good site for expat
jobseekers.
M M M
RELOCATION AGENTS
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)
in over 45 countries, Allied

Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
asiantigers-mobility.com
Asian Tigers is one of the

largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door
moving, housing and school
searches, local and office
moves and pet relocations.
JVK INTERNATIONAL
MOVERS
1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,

JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES
VIETNAM
396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office
moves for household goods
and personal effects through
our global partner network.
Experts in exporting used
scooters that do not have
documentation.
SANTA FE RELOCATION
SERVICES
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around

the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation
services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management.
Email Vietnam@santaferelo.
com for info.
M M M
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A

Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0071
SERVICED
APARTMENTS
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices

globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
DIAMOND ISLAND
LUXURY RESIDENCES
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
agsfourwinds.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury

Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,

modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
INTERCONTINENTAL
ASIANA SAIGON
RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll

find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished

accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well
as two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank

hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment.
Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat
shuttle.
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED
RESIDENCES
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,

Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences
combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the
services of a top-rated hotel.
They come with separate living and dining areas, as well
as a fully equipped kitchen
where guests can prepare a
meal for themselves, their
family and friends.
TATTOO
ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming
increasingly popular,
over the past few years
there has been an
increase in the number
of tattoo studios around
the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on
offer in the studios or
bringing in their own
design. Most of the
studios offer bodypiercing services as
well. Pricing depends
on size and style.
EXILE INK
608
57 Xuan Thuy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 6675 6956
exileinkvietnam.com
SAIGON BODY
ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO
Group
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,

Q1
Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.
com
M M M
SPORTS & FITNESS
CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic
sensations, chains such
as CGV, Lotte and
Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and
independent flicks,
smaller outlets such as
Cinebox and Idecaf carry
little known Vietnamese
and European efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10

Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond

Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart,
469 Nguyen Huu Tho,
Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
CGV CINEMAS
Level 5, Crescent Mall,

Nguyen Van Linh, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5412 2222; Level 10, CT
Plaza, 60A Truong Son,
Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297
1981; Level 2, Thao
Dien Mall, 12 Quoc
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08)
3519 3000; Level 5, SC
VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08)
3775 0555; Level 7,
Hung Vuong Plaza, 126
Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 2222 0388
cgv.vn
Experienced health coach

and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
A small but well-appointed

gym with regular fitness
classes, a steam room and
sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.
STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,

Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is
behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS

CENTRE
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947
771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An

Phu, started by fitness guru
Cyril, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyril's clients love. Includes
yoga, boxing and fitness for
kids and adults every day.
No membership fees. Pay
for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All
activities are safe and run
by Cyril himself.
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
In addition to the squash

court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
VERTICAL ACADEMY
CLIMBING GYM
Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966

920612
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn
A bouldering gym and pro
climbing wall replete with
a showroom and caf offers

something that this area has
never experienced before, a
place to climb. Has a number
of climbing sections, runs
training courses and also
sells daily climbing passes
for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit
pass pay VND1 million).
M M M
VETERINARY CLINICS
ANIMAL DOCTORS
INTERNATIONAL
1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2. (08) 6260 3980
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging

from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
SPORTS GARMENTS
animaldoctors.vn
Offers the very highest levels

of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery
to all pets in Ho Chi Minh
City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding
international standards, the
team works tirelessly to help
clients with the support of a
dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive
diagnostic facilities.
VIETNAMESE CLASSES
VIETNAMESE
LANGUAGE GARDEN
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh
Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
SCORE-TECH
1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel:
(08) 3719 9588
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport

garments for companies,
schools and professional
sports clubs using the latest
printing technology with a
design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from fabric production and
printing to sewing. Big and
small orders for all sporting
and commercial needs.
vietnameselanguagegarden.
com
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also

offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a
restaurant serving calorie
calibrated meals.
SAIGON HASH
HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the

county with a walk, usually
4km and a run around 8km.
VND150,000 for locals and
VND220,000 for expats. Bus,
water, snacks and freeflow
beer after the run.
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA
FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE GYM DIARIES

Despite making some noticeable gains in his path to fitness,
over the past month staff writer Owen Salisbury has
found himself struggling to fulfill his goal of having
muscles like beach balls
ts been a month of frustration. After

my optimism of last month, my pride
over having measurable gains, Im
feeling stuck. My major goal this month
was nutrition, yet for a multitude of
reasons, Im just now getting to it.
Its not Danieles fault. Its not even
entirely my fault. Scheduling conflicts play
havoc with our training schedule, and
though Im able to make up a couple days on
my own, its not the same.
Regardless, if your trainer is unavailable,
get to the gym anyway. Your workout may
not be as good, but simply maintaining the
habit is important as is getting used to
running ones own fitness programme. That

should be an eventual goal for everyone;
taking your fitness into your own hands has
a number of direct and indirect benefits.
Three Steps Forward, Two Steps

Back
Most frustratingly, I got sick again. After a
couple months of good health, the worsttimed stomach flu of my life floored me for
just under two days. As I write this, I feel a
chest infection crowding in. Just as I stopped
living on soup, I start coughing it up.
My weight is creeping back up, too.
Dan assures me this is normal so if your
weight fluctuates, dont freak out and go into

a panic diet... or worse, start stress eating.
Keep going with your plan. Some of that
weight will be muscle youve put on. If your
start gaining fat back long-term, then by all
means reassess matters.
But Ive run into an inescapable truth;
one can only advance so far without getting
your diet on lockdown. Eating well can
also save you money in the long run, but
making that jump is tricky for most people.
It requires time and advanced planning, both
of which are in short supply for me. It also
takes discipline, the discipline to make deep,
lasting changes.
BY OWEN SALISBURY
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
Making Dietary Habits Permanent

These changes are difficult, but if you
want to be fit you must reform your diet.
The sooner you start, the longer you can
take, and the more certain it is that these
new dietary habits become permanent.
We all know what a good, healthy
diet is, right? Lean protein, like chicken
breast and fish. Lots of vegetables,
particularly ones dark in colour. Complex
carbohydrates like brown rice or sweet
potatoes that have a low glycaemic index.
Slow, steady intakes of calories are
best no gut-busting meals. Eat a large
breakfast and lunch, a modest dinner, and
try for minimal-calorie snacks like celery

and cucumber at night. Night eating is a
major culprit in weight gain.
One Part of the Larger Plan

This doesnt mean you have to give up
everything you like, and thank God. I can
still eat cheese. I can still tuck into a rare
steak, or enjoy a glass of fine brandy after
work. The key is moderation. Scale back.
Be mindful of what you put into your
body. And remember, slow changes stick.
Fast ones blow up in your face or your
waistline.
Really, though, nutrition is only one
part. A major one, to be sure, even a

crucial one. But a healthy lifestyle is
just that; a commitment to a certain way
of living, denying oneself short-term
pleasures for long-term gains. Remind
yourself of this, just as I do... and even
when you doubt just as I do
remember what your goals are. Focus on
them. Make them real and theyll happen.
It just might take longer than you
planned. With two months to go in this
experiment, I need to get my ass in gear.
Ive spent too much, sweated too much,
stressed too much for this to go nowhere.
HCMC
On The Town
BARS & CLUBS

2 LAM SON
(MARTINI BAR)
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International dcor blends

seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes
to create one of the most
tasteful if pricier bars in
Saigon.
ACOUSTIC BAR
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:

(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
APOCALYPSE NOW
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
An institution and the kind of

place you end up drunk after
midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this
two-floor establishment with
DJs and occasional live music
is also famed for its hotdogs,
which are served up in the
garden terrace out back.
BIA CRAFT
CRAFT BEER BAR
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 2588
biacraft.com
As craft beer continues to

take over watering holes
around Ho Chi Minh City, so
a bar dedicated to all things
craft and real ale seems
like a pretty sensible idea,
right? Well, it is. Only small,
but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap
and by the bottle, Bia Craft
sells up a delectable range of
the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has
a decent food menu.
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909

028293
blanchystash.com
A multi-storey bar with dcor
and atmosphere more akin
to such an establishment in
New York or London. Has a
reputation for bringing in
big-name DJs. And when we
say big, we mean big. Check
their website for details.
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 8452
With a free book exchange,

and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
BROMA, NOT A BAR
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the citys
weirdest and coolest events/
random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and
quite possibly the best lamb
burger in town. Check out
their bun bo Hue-inspired
cocktail.
EON HELI BAR
LAST CALL
LOUNGE BAR
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai

Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

3823 3122
Breathtaking views require a

vantage point and EON Heli
Bar is by far the highest spot
in Saigon for a spectacular
cityscape, appealing drinks
and a vibrant ambience.
Night live music and DJs.
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail
on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop
and fast becoming that of
the similarly inclined. Great
happy hour deals for early
evening starters.
eon51.com
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08)

6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the

large space and light-wood
tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole
a popular bar for televised
sports, pub food, darts, pool
and more.
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from

McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
CHAMPION SPORTS BAR
SPORTS BAR
45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 4202
A recent addition to the
sports-and-watering-hole
drinking scene, Champion
is located in the Backpackers area and shows all the
major televised sports. Also
has a pool table, darts, tasty
Western and Vietnamese
food, great cocktails and ice
cold beer. Western managed,
wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.
HOA VIEN
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor and
a friendly ambiance combine
to create a perfect setting for
enjoying tasty international
and Vietnamese cuisine.
Gets busy at weekends with
a clientele made up of hip,
young Vietnamese and the
occasional foreigner.
hoavien.vn
The original microbrewery,

this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech
Brewhouse is as popular as
it was 15 years ago when
it was first opened. Does
a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed
beer.
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views

alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking
around an oval-shaped bar
with cityscapes of Saigon.
One of the top watering
holes in the city.
55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 5453
What does the Thao Dien
area of Saigon seriously lack?
A sports bar. And this is the
Al Fresco Groups answer to a
distinct shortage hole in the
market. Sleek lines, modern
dcor, elegant and spacious,
dartboards and of course,
lots of large screens to watch
the televised sports. Check
out their daily food specials.
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
FRENCH / RESTOBAR

3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
ICE BLUE
MAY RESTAURANT
& BAR
EXPAT BAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1
One of this citys longest running watering holes and
the original home of the
darts league has recently
reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still
key here, with each of the
bottom three floors having
elements devoted to this
most pub-friendly of sports.
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

6291 3686
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA.
VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.
com.vn
mayrestaurant.com.vn
An international comfortfood menu mixes with

excellent cocktails and an
extensive winelist at this
attractive, international bar
and restaurant. Dine at the
bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000

www.lotteria.vn
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting

range of Spanish and Cuban
cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry
wurst and Wiener schnitzel.
Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.
D2
SPORTS BAR
www.
vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
LONG PHI
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.dominos.vn
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 8605
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
GAME ON
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
lastcallsaigon.com
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon
glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events
/ DJ sets.
NUMBER FIVE
EXPAT BAR
44 Pasteur, Q1
The original expat bar, this
institution of a place gets
packed every night thanks to
its drinking hall atmosphere,
attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular
live music.
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen

An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with
a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features
a glass shell modeled in the
image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and
views over central Saigon.
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795

www.scoozipizza.com
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports bar

with classic pub dcor is widely
appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey
selection and upstairs pool table.
Great pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
Located on the 20th floor with
stunning views of the city, houses
an upscale, contemporary interior
and an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and
casual, yet hip ambience.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999
Known as the Curry Pub, this
pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all
things curry anything from Goan
fish curries to beef rendangs and
more. A popular local haunt.
SAIGON SAIGON BAR
THE ORIENT
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great place to

watch the sun go down over the
city and relax for a few drinks with
friends. Has live entertainment six
nights a week courtesy of resident
Cuban band, Qvans, from 9pm
Wednesday to Monday.
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)

3821 0796
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like

atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay
Srei, a temple from the ancient
Angkor kingdom, the walls are
covered in statues depicting
ancient Khmer gods and kings.
With ambient lighting and town
tempo music, here its all about
good cocktails and an even better
atmosphere.
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
STORM P
CARTOON BAR
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827

4738
Stormp.vn
Named after the Danish artist

Storm P, this long-running bar is
the home of Saigons Scandinavian
community thanks to its laid-back
atmosphere and excellent food
menu. A good place to watch the
live sports.
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel:

0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative design

form the foundation for this bar /
arts venue / mini-skate park and
graffiti space. Come for barbeque
and reasonably priced drinks,
stick around for entertaining
events and markets.
THE CUBE BAR
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)

7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point for

artistic activities, the space at
Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and
dialogue between different forms
of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music
and other types of performance.
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine

bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
to complement the old and new world wines.
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Laneway-style
restobar, the kind of place found
in Hong Kong, London, New York
or Central Melbourne, thanks to
its indoor and outdoor ambience,
The Society brings dining and
drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare
and seafood make this a place to
go for drinks, a full-blown meal or
a mixture of both.
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900
The first bar established in Saigon
South, great food, great music and
loads of laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights and
a variety of live sports events to
please everybody. Big screens and
outdoor seating add to the mix,
with BBQs available for parties
and events.
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known

for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
range of international and Vietnamese dishes
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.
Regular DJ nights.
M M M
CAFES & ICE-CREAM
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903
199701
Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon.
Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip,
siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the
avid coffee drinker.
AGNES CAFE
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772

A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth

cocktail bar and restaurant with
subtle lighting and one of the best
spirit selections in town. Serves
creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement
the drinks.
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903

369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking restobar

with edgy dcor and just a hint
of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria,
Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things Latin.
SAIGON RANGER
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
THEMED MUSIC BAR
RUBY SOHO
SAIGON OUTCAST
CAF / LOUNGE BAR
LOUNGE BAR
From its roots as the famed Caf

Latin, Phattys has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports
viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket
to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08)

5410 3900
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks
to its cartoon dcor and light but
fun ambience. Has a reasonable
food menu to complement the
drinks.
WINE EMBASSY
XU
Wild West-themed bar doubles

as a music venue, where three
talented Filipino bands (B&U,
Wild West and Most Wanted)
play covers of rock icons like Bon
Jovi, U2 and Guns n Roses. Top
shelf spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the name
game here.
phattysbar.com
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall

interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for a few
beers and more.
SHRINE BAR
SEVENTEEN SALOON
PHATTYS
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
the wines, with a huge selection of the good

stuff sold by the glass.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite

Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties
and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger
space in District 4. Complete with
a new balcony overlooking the
Saigon River and an even larger
sound system, The Observatory is
a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with all

the shenanigans of the nightlife
scene set to a backdrop of classic
60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular
space for watching the live English
Premier League.
WINE BAR 38
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829

3968
With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this
classy but contemporary venue
is a wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has a
French-Asian menu paired to all
COFFEE CUP
3 AMIS
or our monthly caf hunt, the

scenery chosen this time was one
of the old art-deco apartment
blocks in Nguyen Hue. This semipedestrianised street holds a few hidden
spots that are worth checking out, and you
can add 3 Amis to the list.
Venture through one of the galleries that
will give you access to the heart of the
building. The staircase branches out into
the different businesses that the complex
hosts, and on the first floor you will find
3 Amis.
This caf, owned by a Frenchman and
two Vietnamese, is divided into two areas;
a spacious main room that is quite dark and
sparsely decorated, and the terrace, which
is the main attraction. Offering a privileged
view of the walking street that gets very
busy in the late afternoon, arriving here
between 5pm and 6pm is the perfect time to
catch the beautiful colours that the sunset
brings before night descends. You might
even be lucky enough to enjoy some of

the popular revolutionary tunes that blare
from the massive speakers spread along the
boulevard.
Coffee and Crab

The menu here offers an extended list of
drinks and food at affordable prices. I went
for the classic ca phe sua da (VND40,000),
which landed on the table looking tasty
and caffeine-infused, with a big shot of
condensed milk which will never disappoint
a sweet tooth. And to make it even
sweeter, we got the cookies n cream blend
(VND40,000). This was a total burst of Oreo
with a generous scoop of cream on top.
To accompany these delicious treats we
decided to give a try to the crab noodles
recommended to us by the staff. Its not
the most intuitive of combinations coffee
and crab noodles but we judged it to be a
pretty good success. Natalia Martinez
3 Amis is at 90 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC
AMAZING GRAPES
HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
ine appreciation is a funny

thing. Most people discover
wine by having a sip out of
their parents glass. Maybe
they like it, maybe they dont, but either
way it is a very grown-up thing to do.
Growing up through the teen years,
most young people try alcohol but more
often than not it is in the form of beer or
cocktails. But once people discover the
magic of wine there is usually no turning
back. A whole world of flavours, smells,
language and confusion awaits.
In Vietnam, as in many developing
wine markets, drinking wine is still seen
as a very elitist activity. Wine is expensive
here, and so are the vessels from which it
is drunk, so it is easy to see how drinking
wine is associated with success. Many
markets, like the UK, Australia and the
US, have also gone through this attitude to
wine. As acceptance of wine consumption
becomes more commonplace, it begins to
become less about an image of class and
BY JIM CAWOOD
value of the land on which it is grown,

the yield of the vineyard, the type of oak
used, the cost of the bottle, transport and
so on. These are all factors in the cost
of production and yet still you can find
excellent wines that retail for VND250,000
and terrible ones for VND1 million.
I believe that wine improves in quality
up to a point, and in Vietnam that point is
around VND3 million. After that you are
purely paying extra for age, status, rarity
or collectability. This does not mean that
wines over this are not worth the money
it just means that the major factor deciding
the price is no longer how much it costs to
make them.
The quality of a wine is usually related
to its cost, but not always. There are some
great value gems to be discovered from
unknown regions, untrendy grape varieties
or yet-to-be-discovered producers. This is
part of the magic of appreciating wines.
Still, it is imperative to try great wines from
great producers from around the world so
"The quality of a wine is usually related to its cost,

but not always. There are some great value gems to
be discovered from unknown regions, untrendy grape
varieties or yet-to-be-discovered producers. This is
part of the magic of appreciating wines"
more about enjoyment.
Self-satisfaction is what it is really all
about. If we drank alcohol purely to feel
its effects, then we would all be taking
doses of pure spirit. Drinking wine is about
choices. Choices in flavours, choices in
sweetness, strong and powerful or light
and delicate, young or old.
Bargain Bouquet
Alcoholic Volume, 14.5%. Product of Australia
Once a consumer realises this they

are hooked and want to try as many
different wine experiences as they can.
Experiencing the myriad of aromas and
bouquets becomes addictive. Something
else interesting happens. Not only do wine
lovers want to try to taste as many different
wines a possible they also want to try
and do it as cheaply as possible. Finding
a wine at a bargain price, a wine thats
just as good but half the price becomes
paramount. There is nothing wrong with
this if you are going to drink a lot of the
stuff. The more you can save the better.
So what is a fair price for a bottle of
wine? If only this were a simple question.
Many things affect the cost of a wine. The
that you can benchmark quality, varieties

and styles.
But just when you think you have found
the perfect wine, and you have learnt it all,
something new comes along and you are
back at the beginning again. How much is
too much?
But this is not the right question. The
answer depends on the individual. The
question should be: Is this wine going to
make me happy?
Torbreck Woodcutters
Shiraz 2014
Torbreck is known for producing some
of Australias best red wine wines. These
eye watering expensive blockbusters from
extremely rare lots of 100-plus-year-old
vineyards are amazing and something not
to be missed.
Lucky for us there are also some
excellent affordable wines in their range.
Made from selected vineyards from around
the Barossa Valley with an age of up to 80
years, this is a very sexy wine. Inky black,
silky smooth with power, grace, finesse and
precision. A joy to drink
HCMC
On The Town
serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies,

juices, homemade desserts.
Offers up tasty breakfasts,
lunch and dinner all the way
through until 9pm.
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1,
Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,

Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find

yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
COFFEE BEAN &
TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,

Q1; Metropolitan Building,
235 Dong Khoi, Q1
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures

customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere
is bolstered by comfortable
seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,

this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909

824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated
to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment adds to the theme.
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building

with an outdoor courtyard,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is well-priced
and maintains a creative flair.
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben

Thanh Market, i.d offers casual caf dining with a wide
variety of food and beverages. Where modern design
and a warm ambience meet
for coffee.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,

Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor

compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets

Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
THE OTHER
PERSON CAFE
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by

maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
THE PRINT ROOM
PLANTRIP CHA
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere to
chill out or read from their
book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open
table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
Sitting atop of a number of

cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for
a romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.
THE LOOP
is a real draw, with steaks

and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet
contemporary atmosphere.
Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up
the mix.
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL

38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one

of Vietnams most successful
restaurant chains, Al Frescos
offers international, Australian-influenced comfort
fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly
service to match. Also has
an excellent garden-style
branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity

of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.

(08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu
Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, award-winning
Indian restaurant famed for
its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian
fare.
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)

3602 6385
Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye
dcor helps create the cafstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced caf and
restaurant. Sells excellent
coffee and if you like bagels,
here youll be in heaven.
THE MORNING CAFE
2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick

a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with
the comfy upholstery in
this second-floor cafe. With
a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an
afternoon well-spent.
M M M
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
The original, on-the-table
barbecue restaurant still
goes strong thanks to its
rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better
fish, seafood and meats. An
institution.
27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820
7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to

the city's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a caipirinha or five.
Besides the spectacular

views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
TOP EATS
PADMA DE FLEUR
adma de Fleur is already known in

town, and behind this name is the
owner Quynh Anh, who has put
her heart and soul into this flower
shop. Her ambition has led her to move
into a new sphere. Now shes serving
lunch with style, of course.
What seems from the outside to be a
simple flower shop reveals, once you open
its doors, a refined space hidden inside.
Every corner is worth paying attention to.
The combination of beauty on the walls,
on the shelves and on the tables might
be seen as screens of sophistication. I
was especially impressed by the size and
elegance of the lotus blossom painting
hanging on the wall above a mirror of the
same size.
At the same time Omara Portuondo was
playing through the speakers, making
the space seem even more sophisticated.
The place is small, with a capacity of 25
people, so bookings are something to bear
in mind before heading to this flowery

palace.
Flowers on the Table

It was lunchtime and the few tables were
already occupied and ready for food to be
served.
We serve different food every day, says
Quynh Anh. Everything is homemade and
there is no menu.
She recalls her years in Paris when she
had to go out for lunch every day and
make a decision about what would she
eat. This is perhaps what leads her to be so
contemporary and innovative.
I want to give my customers the option
to try new things every day and make their
decisions easier for them. She also makes
things easier for vegetarians; if you are
interested, let them know in advance and
they will prepare a vegetarian option.
The set lunch (VND90,000) consists of
three courses; a savoury dish, vegetables
and rice, and a light soup to have in between

dishes and (traditionally) works to help
clean the food from your bowl. Dessert and a
drink usually tea are included.
Quynh joined our lunch to tell us about
her concept, and while listening to some
of her stories, we ate steamed broccoli and
cauliflower al dente served with a southern
fish sauce on the side one of the chefs
secret family recipes which more than
lived up to its billing. The slow cooked
chicken had a mild flavour that combined
perfectly with the rice and the heavenly
vegetables. And as mentioned, scoops of the
soup were poured into the bowls as the final
course.
So if you are tired of making decisions
when it comes to lunch, let Padma de Fleur
make the decision for you. Natalia
Martinez
Padma de Fleur is at 55/6 Le Thi Hong Gam,
Q1, HCMC and serves set lunches from Monday
to Friday, 11.30am to 2.30pm
TOP EATS
VIII RE
nless you were craving Korean

food, there havent been many
reasons to dine down in District 7.
However, in the last few months, a
high-quality Italian restaurant has slowly
made local converts and is poised to gain
wider attention.
VIII Re (Ottavo Re) is Chef Roberto
Mancinis labour of love after a career spent
cooking for five-star hotels across Asia.
Opened in September 2015, VIII Re serves
classically authentic Italian food made almost
entirely from ingredients imported from Italy.
If You Can Eat It, You Can Cook It

Housed in a spacious open-fronted building
that resembles a Classical temple, the
restaurant follows an unusual principle in its
operation; if you can order it, you can buy
the ingredients to make it. In a miniature
butchers case next to the grill, home chefs
can purchase prime beef at quite reasonable
prices, as well as cheese, cold cuts and highquality pasta.
The restaurant boasts a wine list that
covers Italy from the boot heel to the Alps.
Housed in a glass-walled walk-in, customers
are welcome to browse the whites, reds,
ross and bubblies and to buy a bottle to
take home.
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
A small bar carries the essentials, but you

wont find elaborate cocktails; VIII Re is all
about the vino and the vittles.
Just Like Nonna Made It

And what vittles they are. Start with some
antipasto, like the antipasto allItaliana
(VND298,000), a board loaded with cold cuts,
cheese, olives and marinated vegetables.
While you wont find minestrone on the
menu, try the zuppa di crema di funghi
(VND98,000), a cream of mushroom soup
made with truffles.
Moving on to the primi piatti, VIII Re
serves all the mainstay pastas; bolognese
(VND179,000), carbonara (VND179,000) and
puttanesca (VND178,000) and more, as well as
a half-dozen seafood-based pastas.
For something traditional but less wellknown, try the pappardelle alla vaccinara
(VND188,000), a speciality from Chef
Robertos hometown. This is an aromatic
slow-cooked oxtail ragout with paper-thin
celery slices over home-made egg noodles.
The pizza menu is extensive. Some
highlights are the porchetta (VND178,000),
made with sheer slices of roasted pork,
the diavola (VND159,000), topped with
spicy sausage, and the funghi e salciccia
(VND148,000) whose toppings include
mushrooms and home-made pork sausage.

The real winner is the prosciutto e buffala
(VND238,000). Though a touch more
expensive, the buffalo mozzarella, shaved
Parmesan cheese and imported Parma ham
more than justify the cost.
Una Grigliata Mista

If youre in the mood for something else,
the secondi menu is impressive, with a
wide selection of grilled meat and seafood.
A personal favorite is the pollo ruspante
(VND188,000), a nicely marinated and grilled
half-chicken. Real carnivores can also choose
from four cuts of USDA Prime, Angus or
Mulwarra beef, in portions from 100 grams
and up.
If you still have room, desserts include
the crema catalana (VND99,000) or the
tiramisu tradizionale (VND125,000), some of
the best, most authentic Ive had in Ho Chi
Minh City.
Since I first learned of VIII Re last autumn,
Ive eaten there at least once a month.
Whenever I get a craving for Italian food that
tastes like it does in Rome or Naples, this is
where I head. Owen Salisbury
VIII Re is located at R432 Le Van Thiem,
Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC or online at
ottavore.com
HCMC
On The Town
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European

caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.
BABAS KITCHEN
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian

does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.
BAHDJA
2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just above the Thai
restaurant Spice, Bahdja is
Saigons first ever Algerian
restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and
served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced
in a group, this pleasant
restaurants soothing ambience is matched by the owners genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely
semi-outdoor terrace area.
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion
cuisine at Blanchy Street
is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All
complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior

Compound, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6790
A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new
management and a new
menu think American-style
burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex
together with soup and salad
and youll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen
margaritas.
BOOMARANG
BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,

Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and

bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh to
order. Dishes include noodle
soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots

and curries.
CHIS CAF
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity

in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN

3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty

and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff
and rustic bare brick walls
adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed
and attractive setting.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE

3837 1311
A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that
over the past decade has
quite rightly gained a strong
local and expat following. Try
their pad thai to die for.
CORSO
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style

diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international
mains.
EL GAUCHO
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with
stunning outdoor terrace.
Specialities include pink
pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls,
fishcake wraps and barbecue
chicken in ginger, onions and
a lime leaf marinade.
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The
Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A themed eatery mixing

an Argentinian steakhouse
theme with pork, chicken,
lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can
come off a grill. Slick service,
a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end
of the meal. Probably serves
up the best steak in town.
EON51 FINE DINING
TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai

Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Situated on level 51 of the

most iconic building in
town, Eon51 Fine Dining
offers a unique fine dining
experience accompanied by
unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The
sky-high restaurant proffers
the taste of Europe in Asia,
orchestrated from the finest
local foods and top-quality
imported ingredients.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 1101; The Crescent, 103
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
2210 2304
If youre looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese
restaurants that just seem
to do every dish perfectly,
then Hoang Yen really is the
place to go. The atmosphere
may be a bit sterile, but its
amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent
cuisine. Now with a number
of restaurants around town.
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such

as burgers, salads and prime
rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian
chain also offers regular
promotions and a 4pm to
7pm happy hour. Excellent
outdoor terrace.
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,

the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 4327
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce

is thick and creamy and the
curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian
in town. Very friendly service.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 0326
A sushi bar needs a good
chef, and the chef-owner of
Inaho is one of the best. Sit
downstairs at the low-key
bar or upstairs in the private
VIP rooms. Either way, this
is one of the best sushi and
sashimi joints in town.
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
HCMC
On The Town
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,

the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty
French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust,
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
by the carafe.
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,

815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet

Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,

plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and
awesome chicken curry, as
well as specialities like frog
porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics
alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thais
creative cocktails merge Thai
flavours with local seasonal
fruits and herbs.
KOTO TRAINING
RESTAURANT
LOVEAT
MEDITERRANEAN
29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08)

6260 2727
loveat.vn
Located bang opposite the

Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves
up three floors worth of
Mediterranean cuisine mixed
in with continental favourites
like moules frites. A great
place for dinner, cocktails
and wines in a contemporary
Saigon atmosphere.
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho

Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3822 9357
The restaurant associated
with the KOTO vocational
training school. All the staff
from bar tenders and
waiting staff through to the
chefs come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are
being trained on the jon in
hospitality. Serves up tasty
Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic

atmosphere with its tiled
veranda, pastel-coloured
walls and ficus trees, this
traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star
promotions and an award
winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)

2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in

white specialises in a mix
of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Has a small but well thought
out menu, backed up with
an extensive wine list.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
KABIN
CANTONESE
Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by

some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all
with a European influence.
Also has an extensive wine
list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy
hour.
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai

Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MAY RESTAURANT
INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.
com
Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining

and dining in the heart of
historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an
extensive wine and cocktail
list, and beautifully crafted
comfort food from Europe,
the Antipodes and Asia all
make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar.
Check out their set lunches
and happy hour.
Drawing inspiration from the

great cuisines of Europe, The
Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed
in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 6478
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 1330
A typical Vietnamese-style
quan nhau, this fan-cooled
downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two
things: its on the table,
grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo
(marinated beef) and oddities such as sauted scorpion. A great place to take
out-of-town guests.
MAD HOUSE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR,
RESTAURANT
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 4009
facebook.com/madsaigon
Set over a pool in a leafy,

tropical garden, the beautiful
rustic dcor is matched by
a darkwood, aircon interior.

(08) 38 250261; 116 Suong
Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 9996
namgiao.com
If you want to take friends,

relatives or people out of
town to eat Hue-style street
food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam
Giao is the place. Not only
is it well-priced, but the bun
bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com
hen, banh bot loc and other
such dishes are excellent.
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,

(08) 3823 4999
MEKONG MERCHANT
LUONG SON
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)

6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
PROPAGANDA
HUE CUISINE
NINETEEN
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
NAM GIAO
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
caravellehotel.com
One of the top three buffet restaurants in town.

Although the selection is
small, the meats, fishes and
seafoods are all fresh, and
everything you eat here is
quality.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,

Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
If you fancy dosing out on
ramen and soba noodles,
then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically
Japanese aircon environment
mixes bar-style seating with
booths and private dining.
Open late.
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant

has long been the place in
An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine
includes gourmet seafood
and pastas. Bakery-style
Bistro out front.
MOGAMBO
PENDOLASCO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
PAN-ITALIAN
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825

1311
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829
1515
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality, chicly designed
eatery where all food is
served in traditional crockery.
One of the best Vietnamese
restaurants in town.
QUAN UT UT
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan

nhau-style setting. Of course
it is, which is why Quan Ut
Ut is constantly packed with
grill-obsessed diners going
for the burgers, meats off
the barbecue and Platinum
pale ale served on tap.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
PACHARAN
3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in
the downstairs bar at this
multi-story bodega serving
Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm
reds, yellows and oranges,
Pacharans food menu is
traditionally Spanish.
info@mekongmerchant.com
21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery,
Propaganda serves up classic
Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls
interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.

3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,
Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades

this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine runs from
creative salads through to
Mediterranean influenced
mains.
RELISH & SONS
GOURMET BURGER BAR
44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207

214294
facebook.com/relishandsons
Opening out into a large,

leafy terracotta-tiled garden
area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up
quality homemade pasta,
risotto, gnocchi, excellent
pizza and grilled dishes. Has
a second branch in District 2.
Some have described them

as glamburgers, we describe
them as creative burgers
done well in a contemporary
atmosphere. That is certainly
the gloss youll find at Relish & Sons, along with funky
draught beer options, cool refreshing cocktails and a range
of all things burger. Their
cheesy fries are to die for.
MONSOON
PIZZA 4PS
RIVERSIDE CAF
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
The longest running expat bar

in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than
a drinking haunt thanks to
its Cajun-inspired, American
cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent
burgers, US-style soups and
salads. Still furbished as it
was 20 years ago.
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)

6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably
priced, with healthy juices
and smoothies.
pendolasco.vn

(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated

Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
Renaissance Riverside, 815

Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining
of international quality, with
the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river
sidewalk. Features western,
Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAFFRON
SHRI
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

3824 8358
Sporting food from around
the Mediterranean rim, this
compact and cozy eatery
with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with
expats and tourists alike.
Reservations advised.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor bar
and separate dining room
with sweeping views over
central Saigon make up
this enormous, comfortable
space. A well-thought out
and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,

Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
SORAE
If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is

gargantuan, with every type
of option under the sun. A
great place to catch up on
your seafood addiction or to
pig out over a Sunday brunch.
soraesushi.com
sheratonsaigon.com
SAN FU LOU
CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building,

76A Le Lai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 9513
sanfulou.com
Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese

dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a
space that takes Chinese
dining in Saigon to a new
level. And if you like your
dim sum, look no further.
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
The longest running Korean

restaurant in town, with all
the Koreans moving out to the
hinterland, the clientele here
are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation
remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.
SHANG PALACE
RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly

Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes

and 50 kinds of dim sum
prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and
a main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini

carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb
chop skewers. Also has an
excellent upstairs cigar room.
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
Set over two floors, this
astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant
and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.
TAMAGO
PAN-JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag in

Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,

the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon

River across from Thanh Da
Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern
Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and

more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of

place found in Hong Kong,
London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to
its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings
dining and drinking to a new
level. Phenomenal cocktails,
steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go
for drinks, a full-blown meal
or a mixture of both.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08)

3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
VESPER GOURMET
LOUNGE
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton

Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a
sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting
and a great spirit selection.
Serves creative, Japanese
and German-influenced
cuisine to supplement the
drinks and has a separate
dining space.
WRAP & ROLL
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and

bright pastel colours of Wrap
n Roll are just part of the
theme of this homegrown,
Vietnamese brand which is
all about spring rolls of all
types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental

Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
A WORLD
OF
NEW ERA, NEW PLAN
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
One of the UN's Sustainable Development Goals is to eradicate extreme poverty. While in Vietnam it's been achieved, other countries are still struggling
s we head into the Lunar New

Year and debts are paid off
and homes swept clean to
ensure health and success in
the coming months, the UN has also done
a bit of housekeeping. Put your thinking
caps on. Quick! name the UNs new
Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) for
the next 15 years. OK, can you name the old
Millennium Development Goals (MDGs)?
Something about poverty and water, right?
The SDGs are the new group of goals,
targets (complete with indicators) that UN
member nations will use to structure and
track their development and policies for the
next 15 years. The rationale is that the MDGs
(initiated in 2000) expired at the end of last
year and so a framework was (re)created to
carry on the progress.
The eight old MDGs (in order: eradicate
extreme poverty and hunger; achieve
universal primary education; promote
gender equality; reduce child mortality;
improve maternal health; combat HIV,
malaria and other diseases; ensure
environmental sustainability; develop global
partnerships) were a voice of global unity
for starting the hard work of dismantling socalled intractable problems, such as extreme
hunger.
All-Inclusive?
One consistent criticism of the MDGs
is that of omission the goals did not
include targets for the systemic causes of
development inequality, and so ignored
key structural factors like human rights,
economic development and eradicating
gender-based violence. The more vocal
critics said the targets were for poor
countries to realise, with financing (or
heavily restricted funding) from rich
countries.
The loudest of the critics dismissed the
MDGs as condescending donor-driven
posturing. Lets put this in perspective;
Brazil achieved most of its MDGs; Benin
almost none; and Vietnam was in the
middle with three goals achieved (extreme
poverty, primary education and child
mortality) and strong or significant
progress in the remaining five, says the
UNDP.
For the next 15 years the SDGs will pick
up and carry on. There are 17 goals and
169 targets contained within them, (easily
found online), and what I want to highlight
is its language. The goals use words such
as for all, sustainable, and resilient
and this is to be commended for the intent
of inclusiveness and pragmatism. The goals
and corresponding targets have better heft

to them and in quantifiable terms.
So while I agree there were challenges
with the MDGs (lack of participatory
research, community dialogue, and drafted
entirely by men), I am encouraged by goals
for the next 15 years, such as SDG Goal 5 to
achieve gender equality and empower all
women and girls because it spells out how
progress in this area has been made and
doing more. The UN also stresses its belief
that equality is a fundamental human right
and crucial for a peaceful, prosperous and
sustainable world.
Another promising addition is SDG Goal
8 for inclusive and sustainable economic
growth, employment and decent work for
all (a nod in the direction of both youth and
older workers), which also acknowledges
eliminating exploitative employment
through stable, well-paying jobs.
There are gaps in the SDGs; they havent
(yet) addressed that a leading cause of
poverty is the expropriation of resources by
the few at the expense of the many.
But we already know the journey starts
with the first step, lets keep walking.
Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth
HCMC
On The Town
designed open kitchen, as

diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

BANH TAM
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)

3837 3248
The service is often slow, and
the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here
is so good and so unique to
this city, that no-one seems
to mind. The perfect place
to feast out on gyros and all
things off a skewer. Cheap,
too.
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh

Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CHI THONG
ZOOM CAF
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
195 Co Giang, Q1
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf

and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
M M M
STREET FOOD
COM GA XOI MO SU SU
VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
55 Tu Xuong, Q3
COM TAM 40A
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PAINTINGS
Tran Phu D1
Bui Vien D3
CAMERAS
Ton That Thiep C4
CAC
H
ung
Hoa H
A NG
District 11
2km
Ban
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Min
2
NG
THA
Ba
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Vuon Chuoi
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Tha
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Ng
Thu
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Ha
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EN
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TO
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KH
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TH am Viet
Ph
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PH
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Teacher
Training
University
U
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VUON
yen
n Trai
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Bieu
Tran
DISTRICT 5
Ng u y e
Ngu
WEDDING SERVICES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1
ONG
CU
VAN
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HUN
University of
Natural
Sciences
NG
VUO
YEN
STATIONERY
Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3
Tron
Ch
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N GU
SPORTSWEAR
Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3
Binh Tay
Market 3km
AU
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Tra
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Vu
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DISTRICT 10
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GUITARS
Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2
Ng u
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Tron
FLOWERS
Le Thanh Ton C4
Minh
Quye
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Binh
FABRICS
Hai Ba Trung A3
KH
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NG
HI
Dinh
Tran
EVERYTHING
Ben Thanh Market C4
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Van
Tran
Lan Anh Sports

& Leisure Club
NG
SHOES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2
Luu Van Lang C4
KY
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MA N
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PHO
COOKING INGREDIENTS
Ham Nghi C4, C5
H uy
Saigon Train
Station
Minh
Quye
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Tan Binh
0.5km
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Vinh Khanh D4, D5
NG
Thao
Truo
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COMPUTERS
Ton That Tung C2, C3
Quoc
Ba H
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SAFES
Vo Van Tan C3
NA
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Tran
Tran
Tran Van Dang
PLAQUES
Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2
CAR COMPONENTS
Tran Quang Khai A3
Ky Con C4, D4
PHU
ROI
PH
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MOTORBIKES
Ly Tu Trong C3
YEN
VAN
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Le V
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Nguyen Du C3
Huy
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Le Lai C3, C4
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ARMY SURPLUS
Dan Sinh Market D4
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Le Thanh Ton B4, B5
Do
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Le Cong Kieu C4
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Ch
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A2
A4
A5
C4, D4
B3, B4
C2, C3
D4, E4
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B5, C5
C4
D5, E5
B5, C5
C4, C5
C4
C2, C3
D1, E1, E2
D2
B4
D2, D3
D3, E1, E2
A1, B1
A3
A2
B1, C1
D1
A3
D1
A2, A3
B1, B2, B3
A2, B2
B1
B2, B3, C3
B3
A4, A5
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E3, E4, E5
D4, D5
A3, B2, B3
B3, C2
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E5
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Phan Dinh Phung

Phan Ke Binh
Phan Van Han
Pho Duc Chinh
Phung Khac Khoan
Suong Nguyet Anh
Tan Vinh
Thach Thi Thanh
Thai Van Lung
Thi Sach
Thu Khoa Huan
Ton Dan
Ton Duc Thang
Ton That Dam
Ton That Thiep
Ton That Tung
Tran Binh Trong
Tran Canh Chan
Tran Cao Van
Tran Dinh Xu
Tran Hung Dao
Tran Huy Lieu
Tran Khac Chan
Tran Khanh Du
Tran Minh Quyen
Tran Nhan Tong
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Tran Phu
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Tran Quoc Thao
Tran Quoc Toan
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Truong Quyen
Truong Sa
Tu Xuong
Vinh Hoi
Vinh Khanh
Vo Thi Sau
Vo Van Tan
Vuon Chuoi
Xo Viet Nghe Tinh
Xom Chieu
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Alexandre de Rhodes
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An Duong Vuong
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Ba Huyen Thanh Quan
B2, C3
Ban Co
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Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3
Ben Van Don
D4, D5, E3
Bui Thi Xuan
C3
Bui Vien
D3
Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3
Calmette
C4
Calmette
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Cao Ba Nha
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Cao Thang
C1, C2, D2
Chu Manh Trinh
B4, B5
Co Bac
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Co Giang
D3, D4
Cong Quynh
D3
De Tham
C3, D3
Dien Bien Phu
A4, B3, C1, C2
Dinh Cong Trang
A3
Dinh Tien Hoang
A4, B4
Do Quang Dau
D3
Do Thanh
C1
Doan Nhu Hai
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Doan Van Bo
D5
Dong Du
C5
Dong Khoi
B4, C4, C5
Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5
Hai Trieu
C5
Ham Nghi
C4
Han Thuyen
B4
Ho Hao Hon
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Ho Tung Mau
C4, C5
Ho Xuan Huong
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Hoa Hung
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Hoang Dieu
D4, D5, E3
Hoang Sa
A4, A5
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
C3
Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh
A5
Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5
E1
Huynh Thuc Khang
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Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh
A5
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A2
Huynh Van Banh
A1, A2
Khanh Hoi
D4, E4
Ky Con
C4, D4
Ky Dong
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Le Cong Kieu
C4
Le Duan
B4, B5
Le Hong Phong
D1
Le Lai
C3
Le Loi
C4
Le Quoc Hung
D4, D5
Le Quy Don
B3
Le Thanh Ton
B4, B5, C3, C4
Le Thi Hong Gam
C4, D4
Le Thi Rieng
C3
Le Van Sy
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Luong Huu Khanh
C2
Luu Van Lang
C4
Ly Chinh Thang
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Ly Thai To
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Ly Tu Trong
B4, B5, C3, C4
Mac Dinh Chi
B4
Mac Thi Buoi
C5
Mai Thi Luu
A4
Me Linh
A5
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
A2, B3, C4
Ngo Duc Ke
C5
Ngo Thoi Nhiem
B2, B3, C2
Ngo Van Nam

B5
Nguyen Bieu
E2
Nguyen Binh Khiem
A4, B5
Nguyen Cong Tru
C4, C5, D4
Nguyen Cu Trinh
D2, D3
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D1
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A1
Nguyen Du
B4, C3
Nguyen Gia Thieu
B3
Nguyen Hue
C4, C5
Nguyen Huu Canh
B5
Nguyen Huu Cau
A3
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A4
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D3
Nguyen Khoai
E3
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong
A5
Nguyen Phi Khanh
A3
Nguyen Sieu
B5, C4, C5
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C2
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D5
Nguyen Thai Binh
C4, D4
Nguyen Thai Hoc
C3, D3
Nguyen Thi Dieu
C2, C3
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4,
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Nguyen Thien Thuat
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Nguyen Thong
B1, B2
Nguyen Thuong Hien
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Nguyen Trai
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C4
Nguyen Truong To
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Nguyen Van Cu
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Nguyen Van Lac
A5
Nguyen Van Mai
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Nguyen Van Nguyen
A2
Nguyen Van Thu
A4, B3, B4
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Pham Hong Thai
C3
Pham Ngoc Thach
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The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Other Plates

Got More Rice
If youre having a bad Vietnam day and think this

countrys frustrating, for a bit of reality pie, try going
home. It aint all that different on the other side.
Words by Nick Ross
m doing what few people of means in

this country do Im cycling into work.
Im also continuing a little game Ive
concocted Im counting how many
times Im cut up, bullied by a four-wheeled
vehicle or in a near miss in the 10km route
between home and office.
This morning is a good day only twice
am I swearing under my breath or shaking
my head in disbelief at the actions of another
driver. On my worst morning it happened
six times, and one time a woman motorbike
driver cut me off, missing me by an inch. I
yelled out in anger. The woman jumped out
of her seat and almost drove into another
vehicle. In the space of a few seconds she got
shouted at twice.
Live in Vietnam and the roads drive all of
us mad. On the road is one of the few times

that we come into contact with our fellow
human beings in this country, and its not
always a pleasant experience. But is it really
all that different from back home?
Heres a story from the place I was
brought up: London.
Im driving and realise I have to go down
a slip road off one highway and onto another
I have to pull in at the last minute. My
action means jumping quite suddenly in
front of another car. That car, a BMW, goes
crazy. My fault, yes. I try and say sorry it
doesnt matter. He goes up my ass, overtakes
me at the first opportunity before pulling
in in front and slowing down to a near
standstill. Hazard lights flash. He swerves
his car from one side of the lane to another.
This guy wants a fight. Im lucky he doesnt

have a gun.
Would that happen in Vietnam? Most
likely no (although I have heard of a few
instances over the years). In both places my
life is in danger, but in different ways.
Getting Frustrated
There are countless frustrations in Vietnam
that dont happen overseas, and thousands
of everyday frustrations overseas that dont
happen in Vietnam.
Lets take the internet. In Vietnam
everywhere you go its free of charge. The
only issue speed. It can get frustrating.
How about in the UK? The free internet is
infinitely slower than it is in Vietnam so
bad it sometimes doesnt work at all. Not
good when youre sitting in a caf trying to
get some work done. And the cheek of it is
to get yourself online for free, youve got to
register. In Vietnam, you only register with
the big chains.
Lets take another instance of the internet,
getting it installed at home. In London it
took me two weeks to get broadband. Two
weeks! Maddening. In Vietnam once youve
got the go-ahead, it takes 24 to 48 hours.
In the UK, got an important delivery

coming? Youre just told morning or
afternoon, which means waiting at home
until the delivery arrives. A complete
waste of time. In Vietnam you get the
mobile number of the delivery driver and
everything is organised so that no time is
wasted.
In Vietnam, go to a shop, buy some
electronics and in places like Nguyen Kim,
the staff will take everything out of the box
and check your purchase before you take
it home. In the west? Take it home, find an
error, and youve got to go back to the shop
and wait, wait, wait I recently took some
wrongly purchased lightshades back to Ikea.
I had to wait an hour to get my refund (and
that was not calculating the 45-minute travel
time from home to Ikea and back).
Take Stock
The problem with Vietnam is that things
happen here that to non-Vietnamese minds
seem ridiculous and unnecessary. Parks are
created under bridges where you cant walk
on the grass. A bus driver pulls in to stop,
cutting you up, just because they can. You
want your my quang in Mon Hue served
with pork meat rather than pork rib, but

youre told no. Even worse youre told that
my quang is never served like that anywhere
(an absolute lie). It takes an argument and a
waitress almost in tears just to get you what
you want.
Youre waiting in a bar to order, but cant
order yet because your drinking partners
have yet to sit down. The waiter sees this but
hassles you once, then twice, before trying
to take the drinks menu from you to give
to another table. Youre trying to get a new
visa, but are told to go a particular organ of
power to sort out your documents. You go
to the place and they say, oh no, you cant
come here, youve got to go somewhere else.
You go somewhere else and get redirected
to the first place. Youre in a restaurant and
want the bill, but you cant get the attention
of the staff because theyre chatting away
and not focusing on the customers. So you
have to get up, walk over, break up their
conversation and ask for the bill.
Aagh! Its infuriating.
Now for the UK.
You have a banking issue over a payment.
You call up, wait 25 minutes, eventually
get through, before being told that youve
been put onto the wrong department, which

means another 10-minute wait to speak to
the right person to sort it out.
There is an issue with your council tax
(property tax) payments. So you phone up
the local council, after 15 minutes you get
through. They tell you them to email them
some documents, but not to a particular
person but to a central email address. You
do that, but get no response for three weeks.
When you do get the response youre asked
for more documents, so you send them
through. Still no response. In the meantime,
you have to make existing payments
anyway, because if you dont youll default
and it will affect your credit rating.
You buy some furniture. In Vietnam it will
be delivered in 24 hours and assembled for
you at home. Where I come from, youll have
to wait five days or sometimes far longer.
When the furniture finally arrives you have
to assemble it yourself.
Aagh!
So, having a bad Vietnam day? My
suggestion get over it. Cos right now,
other people are having bad London days,
bad Sydney days and bad Bogota days all of
their own.
The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Language Beast

Learning Vietnamese isnt as difficult as you think. Its much tougher than that.
Linguist Peter Scott ought to know
hen I arrived in Vietnam in 1993,

I was a linguist. Or I thought I
was. I had stunned my friends
by learning fluent Greek in three
months, and back when I was a university
student, teenage girls in Paris had just loved
my French accent. Their fathers, inevitably
big policemen, hadnt.
So, my first morning in Saigon, I strolled
among the quiet streets (1993, remember)
in confident mood. I had even skimmed
through a semi-official Vietnamese
phrasebook containing sentences like I
should like to learn the principal agricultural
and industrial exports of your country and
The swineherd is hooting with a horn, so
I was well up on contemporary life in
Vietnam.
I spotted a cafe. I sat down at an outdoor
table. To me, a waiter.
Ca phe, I said. I knew my story and I
was going to stick to it.
He gave me a look which I hadnt seen
before on any human face, but one I was to
become very familiar with. He peered at me
as if he couldnt believe his eyes, and then
allowed a frown of growing irritation and
disgust to build on his forehead until he was
glaring at me. It made me wonder if I had
accidentally insulted his ancestors.
Ha? he said with extreme abruptness.
Ca phe, I said in a much smaller voice.
When speaking foreign languages, I like
to see happy faces around me, lit up with
the joy of comprehension, not the sort of
scrutiny given to serial killers.
But I rarely found it in Vietnam. Even
my teacher, whom I hired shortly after my
drubbing by the rude waiter, could scarcely
contain his rage when I failed to master the
(quite unnecessary) formality of the phrase
to greet someone who has knocked on your
front door. Every lesson was a shitfight,
which I came to dread.
And so was every interaction on the
street. If my Vietnamese was far better
than my interlocutors English, then it was

obvious we should confer in Vietnamese.
Obvious to me, and maybe obvious to you.
Not to them. I was eventually forced to
develop my own version of the Rude Waiter
Ha and used it to considerable effect. Very
gradually, some places and some people got
used to me speaking Vietnamese, and let
me get on with it. Having done everything
to obstruct me getting confident with the
language, they now showed me off to other
Westerners as a top Vietnamese speaker.
They even gave me a Vietnamese name,
with which they would address me.
So Youre Fluent, Right?

The truth is, I never got really good at
Vietnamese, though naturally other
Westerners thought I was fluent. This
misunderstanding led to some odd
situations, such as the time an acquaintance
approached me in a busy and noisy bar/
restaurant with a plan to spy on his
mother-in-law.
My wifes bringing her mother and
aunt up from the Mekong Delta, and were
having dinner here tonight. Can you keep
an ear open for what they say about me? I
think theyre plotting against me.
It would have been hard enough in
English, out of the question in Vietnamese,
and quite impossible in what passes as a
dialect from the Mekong Delta. Besides, if I
was caught earwigging their conversation,
the old lady would probably get up and
batter me over the head with the steamboat.
Later, after leaving Vietnam in
circumstances which will be familiar to all
middle-aged Western males, I pondered
the question. Was I a linguist, or not? I was
like a boxer who had achieved two easy
knockouts and then been floored in the first
round of my third bout, recovering just
enough to battle to a bloody draw.
So I was a little wary when circumstances
led me, a year or so later, to Thailand.

Another tonal language, another place
where I would forever be an obvious
outsider, and a written language that looks
like a spider doing yoga. I prepared well for
the bout, learning the alphabet diligently
and noting the languages similarities with
Vietnamese. This shouldnt be too hard, I
thought.
Wanting us to Learn
And it wasnt. Toughened by my
Vietnamese experience, I worked hard
on my Thai, but most crucially was aided
by the best gift any language learner can
receive the locals want you to speak their
language.
In Thailand, this is taken to extremes.
Thais will do anything to avoid the
embarrassment of a Farang Interaction, and
therefore automatically greet you in Thai
in the hope that you can respond in similar
fashion. To be treated as a non-Thai speaker
in a shop, you would need to enter wearing
a ten-gallon hat and cowboy boots, twirling
two six-shooters and yelling This is a stickup. Grab some sky!
The two languages are broadly similar,
and the learning experiences utterly
different. Vietnamese are keen to display
their English-language skills, determined
to control the conversation by keeping it
in English, and are resolutely unhelpful to
your efforts to speak Vietnamese.
Thais are keen to hide the fact that they
have no English-language skills, they are
not the sort of people who get around to
controlling anything, and are enormously
pleased when your ability to speak Thai
means that their morning will likely proceed
on its usual somnolent way.
So, if youre having trouble learning
Vietnamese, and are writing yourself off as
someone who cant learn languages, dont
feel bad about it.
Weve all been through it.
The Final Say
Ten 10
A pioneer and a visionary, designer Nguyen Cong Tri is one of

the biggest names in the Vietnamese fashion industry
When did you first get into the
Does the world accept Vietnamese
fashion industry? What difficulties
fashion?
did you have convincing your family I think Vietnamese fashion hasnt yet
and friends that this was the right reached the highest level yet, but has
career for you?
slowly scored some good points through
I began when I was in university. At that
time, fashion was still new, so it was difficult
to convince my family that this could be a
career. But I knew, even then, that I had to
work in the fashion industry.
professional and international fashion

shows. Vietnam International Fashion
Week has really helped as it is a chance
for Vietnamese designers to bring their
creativity to the world.
As a fashion designer, what

challenges have you been through?
As one of the judges

of Project Runway,
what level is
Vietnamese
fashion at
compared to
international
fashion? What
are the strengths
of Vietnamese
designers and
what do they
need to improve?
Vietnam didnt really have a fashion scene

at the time I started out in 2000. So there
was no school to teach you how to do things
you simply had to teach yourself. Selfteaching is not always easy.
In the last 15 years, what are your

most treasured moments? And the
most challenging?
My most treasured moments have come on
the catwalk stage, holding the hands of the
models who have worn my creations during
fashion shows. The difficulties I have been
through are many as many as there are
different types of fabric.
What makes you interested in

fashion? And clothes designing?
I am interested in fashion and clothes
designing because I love beauty and I want
to make people beautiful.
People say your designs should

be shown on the international
fashion stage. What difficulties
do Vietnamese designers face
in getting their designs worn in
foreign countries?
The world is very big and there is not only
me doing fashion. Even to me, what is
considered new and beautiful only exists
for a few hours. I think each designer has
their own style and personality. The most
important thing is how our designs reach
out to the world.
Who are your clients? Do you sell

your products overseas? How do
you feel when you take part in
international fashion shows?
My clients are often ladies in high social
positions who love beauty, especially
politicians wives, even first ladies around
the world. I find doing international fashion
shows really exciting, and I always have
the feeling I am going to learn a lot of new
things.
196 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com
I think Vietnam needs

to make a lot more
effort to step out to
the world. In order to do that, Vietnamese

designers have to constantly improve their
skills. In my perspective, strengths can also
be weaknesses. The important thing is how
to balance them.
How has the annual Dep Fashion

Show aided the development of the
Vietnam fashion industry?
Dep Fashion Show is one of the pioneering
fashion shows in this country. By combining
the catwalk and art, its helped make some
designers shine. Its also acts as a target
for young designers. Getting their
collections on the catwalk at the Dep
Fashion Show is something for them
to aspire to.
How long do you think it

might take for Vietnamese
fashion to make it
overseas?
That question is too broad for
me. I simply love fashion and
love beauty. I focus my interest
on what I have been doing for my
brand.
Sch Chuyn Qung Co - Not For Sale

Word Vietnam February 2016

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F for

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

Moet et Chandon made in pernay - 12% Vol

Ground Floor, Saigon Garden, 99 Nguyen Hue, District 1, HCMC

The turtle in the lake is no more

Tis the Year of the Monkey

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

Fancy learning to pole dance,

16 / The Body Transformation

The ptanque league in Hanoi. Its

2 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com

A portrait of fashion industry

A sustainable approach to fashion

From swimming pool mecca to

Style, creativity and looks. An

102 / Setting a Benchmark

The greenest building in Vietnam

106 / The Upper Crust

Saigon gets itself a new restobar.

EAT & DRINK

112 / The Many Faces of Bun Cha

Hanois (second) favourite dish, but

116 / Mystery Diner HCMC

This months review: Le Terroir

No fashion issue would be complete 118 / Street Snacker HCMC

wordvietnam.com | February 2016 Word | 3

150 / Bar Stool

158 / Medical Buff

120/ Going Deep

152 / Coffee Cup

164/ Business Buff

156 / Top Eats

166 / Body and Temple

160 / City Map

174 / The Gym Diaries

180 / Amazing Grapes

134 / Notes From

188 / A World of Good

Fancy a trip to Vung Tau, anyone?

138 / The Motorbike

162 / HCMC City Guide

192 / The Other Plates Got

Diving with Rainbow

126 / Making Tracks the

Drawing a new route through

Arunachal Pradesh, Assam and

178 / Coffee Cup

Everywhere you live in the world

184 / Top Eats 2

194 / The Language Beast

190 / City Map

140 / Hanoi City Guide

144 / Day Tripper

148 / The Therapist

4 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Fashion industry pioneer and

Wishing you a very monkey-like 2016

wordvietnam.com | February 2016 Word | 5

This month we asked our team to tell us about

Word - Duong Huynh

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

6 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com

CNG TY TNHH MTV