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2015 054 044 THE TALK INSIDER 010 / In Wedded Bliss 44 / The Big Wet Marriage just got easier 011 / The Big Five Events to look out for this month 082 Almost everything you need to know about the tropical rains… Almost 50 / Australia's Cash Cow BRIEFINGS Vietnam’s obsession with red meat and the Australian beef industry 12 / The Run For Peace 54 / S**rts The Danang Marathon is more than just a race 18 / Heart Reach Australia 20 years of helping the disadvantaged in Vietnam 24 / Building of the Month The apartment block on Nguyen Sieu 024 94 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: Bun Bo Nam Bo 96 / Mystery Diner HCMC The MAD House gets our reviewer’s thumbs up 98 / Street Snacker HCMC In search of Saigon’s iconic hu tieu stand Time to get physical 82 / The Gecko's Revenge Paintballing with the Saigon Rugby Club 86 / The Ballerina Beauty through a mirror EAT & DRINK 92 / Top Eats: Papa Roma Food Street gets pizza by the slice 098 .Contents Aug.


Contents Aug. 2015 100 106 114 TRAVEL 138 / City Map 146 / Amazing Grapes 100 / Croatia HCMC 150 / A World of Good 026 / To-Do List 164 / The Empty Wok 032 / Overscene 168 / Tieng Viet 140 / HCMC City Guide FINAL SAY 156 / Coffee Cup 172 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War A boat trip down the Dalmatian Coast 106 / Routefinder Seeing Vietnam on a bicycle 114 / The Motorbike Diaries Part 5: This is ‘Burma’ 118 / Travel Promos HANOI 034 / To-Do List 158 / Bar Stool 160 / Top Eats 166 / City Map 040 / Overscene COLUMNS 110 / The Alchemist 119 / Hanoi City Guide 132 / The Therapist 125 / Bar Stool 136 / Medical Buff 126 / Coffee Cup 137 / Book Buff 130 / Top Eats 142 / Business Buff 134 / Food Promos 144 / Body and Temple 4 | Word August 2015 | Chapter 11: In the Western Highlands 178 / The Honda Cub Rises Nostradamus comes back to haunt us… 172 .


com ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam. Douglas Holwerda. The team that is furthest away from the pallino (small white ball) has to chug a drink for each extra inch. It was like an early form of Fantasy Football Manager. Ben Rubin. I am on a Cub. SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy III/2015. Sandee Woodside and Dara O Foghlu VI PHAM Contributor The hoomin’ chicken battle for sure! There are two people on a team and one person has to piggyback the other teammate. CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạ Website: www. we decided to ask the following question: What is the weirdest sport you’ve ever played? JON ASPIN Staff Writer Apart from cricket in Sweden. For maximum enjoyment. Tran Trung Thinh. except we raced dogs. © Word . the other guy is on a Simson. Vroommmm! MARK ALLAN Website Developer A game called Salad-A-Kick. You have a designated base. TP. Le Hoang. Word is a registered trademark. Bao Zoan.3825. Vu Bao JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.3826. The problem is getting back to base… The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng. Camilla ADMINISTRATION NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor Rochambeau. we all wear protection gear like real Website: www. VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager Not sure if it’s a sport. HCM. thegioipublishers. All you have to do is be the person to place the ball on the square in the middle of the playing field. Hoàn Kiếm. Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-1595-4 .com For advertising enquiries please call Ms Trinh on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Huyen TRINH BUI Sales Executive trinh@wordvietnam. The aim is to kick the ball through other people’s legs. Jim Cawood. coookooo” while keeping the other leg off the ground. the game where two dudes knee each other in the balls until one of them collapses. Kyanh Tran. It’s a violent free for all — I lost a tooth when I last Giấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 2015-2015/ CXBIPH/08-129/ThG Quyết định xuất bản số: 288/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 29 tháng 07 năm 2015.xavier@wordvietnam. Trần Đoàn Lâm Biên tập: Phạm Trần Long Thiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao Ross Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNH CÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành. DAVID MANN Contributor / Former Staff Editor Drunk bocce. Nguyen Le. TP. jumping on one leg. Hà Nội Tel: 04.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers.000 cuốn.3841 – Fax: 04. or Italian lawn bowls. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam. Diana CHAU GIANG Area Manager Hanoi giang@wordvietnam. Q. constantly shouting “cookooo. No teams. Noey NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor niko@wordvietnam. khổ 20. play with actual Italians. Mai Van Khoa. The Republic. It’s soccer without a goal. and the graphics were cr*p. Phil Kelly. Jesse CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN: TS. HCM. VU BAO KHANH Photographer We have a game similar to drag racing. Paintball Saigon. Meatworks.tranphuprint. To Thu Phuong. as kids we spent days on end playing a Commodore 64 game called Hounded. Philippe Collin. Phường 4. CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-1595-4 6 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. 1. If the ball goes through a player’s legs they have to run to the base and touch it. but adding booze makes it even MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam. Dana McNairn. Shane In đến 15. David Mann. It’s so primeval I reckon it predates JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam. Jill Kester. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam. Vi Pham. TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam. and there are times when there are up to 60 players on the field. Truong from SUBSCRIPTIONS KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam. George Burchett. Fox Fitness Club. VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam. There are no rules. but I have tried beer pong twice and I want to play it more! NICK ROSS Chief Editor Has to be murder FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. Both bikes are 50cc. Devin Monaghan.CONTRIBUTORS As the topic of this month’s issue is sports. I never lost. Each pair knees against the other pair and whoever puts both legs on the ground first loses the battle. Riccha Arora.Duong Huynh Advertising JSC © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C. The game without drinking is MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam. Natalia DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam. The Saigon Geckos. Matt Dworzanczyk. Karen Gay. 3. www.


In the UK. Although according to the Savills Property Price Index. It’s made for some your fingertips. residential real estate prices have stabilised over the past 12 months — in Hanoi they are only 2 percent above their level in the first quarter of 2009. and sometimes it isn’t. A Step Back We first picked up on the new law in December. A Nod for Niko com — we’re at I know some people have found Niko Savvas’s writing offensive. — RR so. — DL T that you would buy a property here. — AP and touch us What a load of xxxx. bigger and better things. She is moving up to a new role. according to their need. Eight years and counting! — Nick Ross. He rose through the ranks from freelancer to staff writer. July 2015) Now You Can Buy Good article. but a lot of others really love it. Here’s an excerpt of what we wrote — the piece was published on wordvietnam. Chief Editor ! S T R S** THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS W OR DV IE TN AM . We will miss his wit. before deciding it was time to move on. May 2015]? Loved the article!!! Maybe sarcasm hasn’t begun yet in Vietnam? Keep it up!! — LS 8 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. What is it he uses all the time? ‘Your correspondent’. ******** When this article was re-posted on social media in May. non-Vietnamese citizens will be able to own the property for a maximum of 50 years and enjoy the same rights to lease. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts. You have to own Buy a house in Europe and you’re looking at a minimum it outright. The change is expected to give a well-needed boost to Vietnam’s real estate market. the country’s second-largest city. First is Ed Weinberg. ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / That writer of yours Niko Savvas has made your mag a lot ruder over the past months. With swathes of nonBritish investing in bricks and mortar in London. so is off to seek new experiences elsewhere.Prelude N o matter how much order we try to place on it. At the same time. good conversation. He also spent many a late night doing last minute changes to the mag. Controversial is good. receive or inherit apartments and houses in commercial projects. the naysayers stepped in and got negative. Photo by Francis Xavier. Over the years. is doing the opposite of leaving — she already tried that one and ended up coming back. we look forward to hearing from you. You can . Inbox Talk Lead Now You Can Buy is going to buy a house here? Do you have (page 10. The premium paid for living in London is now so high that a property there costs between five and seven times as much as its equivalent in Birmingham. Ed made a genuine difference to what and who we are. we hope. Classic! — NJ Am I the only one who had an out loud laugh at this [Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great. transfer or sell the property as Vietnamese citizens. too. Niko Savvas. From this month it all changes. Design by DH Advertising Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — Even that’s been a source of comment. his sarcasm and his Facebook and Twitter posts. Coming in at a time of crisis. its players transient. We would like to suggest some attractive projects: Sala (District 2). He gave us a much needed voice. — MW I think Niko Savvas’s writing is very amusing. and they may lease their property for any “purpose that is not banned by law”. But there was You can’t even get a visa these any comments one thing you missed. Anything below becomes a problem. @wordvietnam. restrictions — particularly the ‘commercial project’ restriction — means that foreigners still cannot freely buy property in Vietnam. Now. foreigners will have the biggest opportunity to possess real estate assets in our longest serving member of staff. — Nick Ross 10 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam. Villa Park (District 9) and in particular Vinhomes Central Park (Binh Thanh. They will also avoid something else they dread — the loss of land to foreigners. we are changing the structure of our editorial department. he helped steady the ship and played a large role in building a new one. prices are still 10 percent down on what they were five years ago. Vu Ha Kim Vy. 1. Without you. But with foreigners encountering increasing issues with visas and work permits. — JK THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE From Jul. However. anyone can buy property. With the imposition of restrictions — leasehold purchase only. What is clear is that this law change does offer an opportunity. the more so because many people just don’t get it. They missed the wider ramifications of opening up the property market to foreigners. 8 AUTHOR: BAO ROSS and NICK ROSS THIS MONTH'S COVER Antoine and Phil from the Saigon Geckos. life is necessarily temporary. editorial manager. then deputy editor and finally managing editor. thank you for your work! Also flying off to foreign climes is our online editor and controversial features writer. Ed. Individual foreigners will be able to extend their home ownership after 50 years. both to live and to invest. And finally. ********** According to the new amended housing law. foreigners can buy property in Vietnam. They will be able to buy a maximum of 30 percent of apartments in a block and 250 houses in a given ward. Vietnam will avoid this. which will be merged into District 1 in the future). Here are the caveats here’s big news on the “Are we really welcome here?” front this month: foreigners can now buy real estate. but you 50 year leases don’t make sense. although not in areas that limit or ban foreigners. By having their hands on the reins. So excited are the real estate companies that the emails have been flying out. Such is the case with two members of Word staff who this month are moving onto. this has led to a house price boom in the country’s capital. this would never have been possible. foreign individuals and entities will be allowed to buy. There are no restrictions. its meaning fleeting. You really think anyone in their right mind at editor@ wordvietnam. foreign property owners will also be subject to Vietnam’s property taxes.vietnam — or via Twitter. can’t sell a house if you have a like to air? If mortgage on it. One we received read as follows: From the new laws. Which means with people departed and others staying. for example. The law will also extend the rules that currently apply only to apartments. Niko has fallen out of love with this country.C OM The CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH. Thank you everyone for your support. reach out of 70 years. in Ho Chi Minh City. a maximum amount of properties per ward or apartment building — Vietnam is protecting itself from the rampant capitalism of the West. Sometimes Vietnam is good to its adopted residents. who spent three years with our humble publication. regardless of nationality. it is unclear how many will bite. we have bemoaned the fact that the vast majority of non-Vietnamese (except for naturalised Viet Kieu and a few other exceptions) cannot purchase houses or apartments in this country. It’s more entertaining. and without the amazing staff we’ve had over the years.


the ability to support one’s family is not just a necessity. Cambodia’s answer to these ‘sham’ marriages was a 2011 edict banning foreign men over the age of 50 from taking Cambodian brides (the ban was only for men. emails and bank statements — all have to be offered up in evidence. However. At the time human rights groups had documented instances where Cambodian women were sent into prostitution or “used as slaves” in their husband’s home country. Vietnam’s answer was less controversial. for example. it has “yet to prove effective in preventing marriage frauds”. when they are proven to be genuine. True Love Marriage has always proved a bane for officials charged with issuing green cards (work permits) and visas. the non-Vietnamese partner should have a far easier path to gaining working status. In addition. However. be deemed to be too large. the spouse is not guaranteed their visa. Unfortunately the interview process has been open to “misconduct”.250 (VND49 million) a month. This scenario has occurred countless times with mixed nationality couples living in Vietnam. it’s a right. a complex process at the best of times. 2016. the British authorities are lenient. As a result. And now imagine that many of the young women around you are being ‘snapped up’ by foreign husbands. a proposal is being tabled to scrap the interview process from Jan. then it’s possible the application might be turned down. And according to an article in Thanh Nien. If you wish to apply for a spouse visa to go to the UK. not just the official one. — Nick Ross . And this is despite the couple being legally married. not for women). it is most often the foreign partner in the marriage who is the main breadwinner for a mixed nationality family in this country. rings. No doubt you would feel pretty upset. After all. Other countries take a much stricter line.Talk Lead ILLUSTRATION BY BEN RUBIN THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE In Wedded Bliss Mixed nationality couples marrying in Vietnam may no longer need an interview I magine you lived in a poor rural area in a ‘poor’ country. And by international standards. Photos. and the moves to prevent ‘sham’ marriages are worthy. The powers that be should be commended for making this process so easy. said one official in ABC News. The lack of 2+2=4 makes them jump through the work permit hoop. Marriage between couples of different nationalities is difficult on many levels. Unfortunately. with all the supporting documents in order. wedding images. The reason. visa-free entry only goes so far: it doesn’t entitle the foreign spouse to work here. Facebook posts. you have to prove that your marriage is genuine. husbands that whisk them overseas in return for a payment to both an agency and the family of the bride. Vietnam is in part far easier in this respect: being married to a Vietnamese national entitles the nonVietnamese spouse to visa-free entry to this country. Should the age difference between husband and wife. Applicants for a mixed nationality marriage now needed to sit an interview to “ensure that they are getting married voluntarily” and to assess their language ability “for 10 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. was to prevent “fake marriages and human trafficking”. 1. You have to sit an interview and even then. for example. foreign men eligible to marry a Cambodian woman had to prove their salary was above US$ the purposes of communication and mutual understanding”.

A visual exploration of the living environment of Vietnam’s migration workers. which will travel to both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in September. many people still have to toss and turn in that 8m2. For more information click on zeddhcmc. Chamboche’s underground electronic releases have been manipulating dance floors for the better part of a peabo-bryson-31232 wordvietnam.000 mark. but by all accounts there’s another | August 2015 Word | 11 . Standard tickets to the True Colors Zone are VND550. Peabo Bryson is to perform in Vietnam next month 8m2 2 Goethe-Institut Hanoi. 4 Two-time Grammy Award winner. 8m2 refers to the minimum living space requirement in pre-Doi Moi Vietnam. the standout this month is London-based DJ.000 after). Sep. DJ Zedd. 14 The Observatory always has a great roster of both local and overseas acts gracing its decks — the venue was recently voted one of the top five clubs in Asia. Thailand and Japan. Doors are at 10pm and entrance is free before midnight (VND150. half marathon and a 5km fun run — there’s still time to 4 3 With three races on offer — the full 1. 30 PHOTO PROVIDED BY PULSE ACTIVE The first internationally-certified marathon in Vietnam. Sep. stopping off in ‘Nam before he heads further afield to The Phillippines. turn to our article on the marathon on page 12. live music and a worldrenowned DJ Z is for Zedd 1 Rach Chiec Golf Driving Range. Last year’s Danang Marathon 4. With pop genius electro trance hits like Beautiful Now.Big5 The 1 2 Visa-free entry to Vietnam. themed as The Run for Peace in memory of the 40 years that have passed since the end of the war. get your tickets in early by clicking on ticketbox. Q2. 13 Acclaimed artist Nguyen The Son will be bringing his photo installation. American singer-songwriter Peabo Bryson will visit Vietnam in September to perform in the show. Zedd’s visit is part of his True Colors Asia tour. And he’s coming to town. Hanoi From Thursday Aug. 18 The Danang Marathon Around Danang Sunday Aug. 8m2. HCMC or online at facebook. HCMC Friday Aug. However. In The Spotlight. And for the real beef. to the GoetheInstitut Hanoi this month. Playing at the unlikely venue of a golf driving range. Ba Dinh. they hope to surpass the 5. HCMC Friday Aug. DJ and producer. 5 Peabo Bryson Vietnam National Convention Centre. HCMC. Support comes from Ben Start (UK). not just a pretty boy 2. Q4. Come ready to dance. at times it is for up to eight people.500 runners including 400 professionals. Grammy award winning artist. Bringing his powerful arsenal of house and techno to Vietnam. This year. To see Peabo. Says the artist: “After half a century of struggling. we’re confident this will be a big one. last year the Danang International Marathon had 3. All meaning that his September shows are perfectly timed. Chamboche. is to play at Observatory 3. Performing his repertoire of hits from a career that has spanned four decades. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Hanoi. and he’s a multi-platinum selling. London underground DJ. Simply click on rundanang. 7 The only ‘Zedd’ we know is dead. Chamboche.” For more information turn to page 34 3 Chamboche The Observatory. 12 Hoa Binh Theatre. European football clubs. but it is not 8m2 for just one person.000 with additional premiums being charged for tickets to the VIP area. 64-year-old Peabo is known as ‘The King of Balladeers’ and is famous for hits like Can You Stop the Rain.

he finally understood something about Vietnamese people. Dennis Zaborac collapsed into an empty chair at a busy outdoor café. But most importantly.Briefings A Danang t mile 20. Sitting at the café with beers in hand. the theme for the Danang International Marathon is Run for Peace. blistered. “Is this your first trip to Vietnam?” As he vaguely shared his previous experience in their country. When he arrived in Danang for the first time in 42 years to run the inaugural Danang International Marathon. more so than in the year he had spent fighting them. Stationed for a year at Cua Dai River just near Hoi An. Four decades later. He found absolution. when Zaborac was sent home abruptly after the war ended. Celebrating 40 years of peace in Vietnam. 42 years after he had left so suddenly. a bond was created that linked two countries and spanned four decades. In that instant. He found acceptance. he felt a unique camaraderie that exists when you collectively survive running 26. he didn’t feel like he was entering enemy territory. More than just a Marathon This The Run for Peace One man’s story.500 runners and 400 professional runners participated from 25 different countries and territories.2 miles in the humid Vietnam heat. all he saw were kindness and sincerity. Thousands of people’s marathon .500 professional marathoners. 3. But these young men were inquisitive. he found himself surrounded by a few local young men welcoming him with beers. fatigued and dehydrated. the local men asked Zaborac two very telling questions. Last year. he felt like he had left some unfinished business behind in Vietnam. he felt ready and rejuvenated. he returned to Danang to run the marathon and to resolve the incompleteness he felt from his previous journey to this once war-torn country. And Zaborac didn’t have the heart to be untruthful. — Diana Truong 12 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. he had wanted to withhold the information that he was American and that he had served here in the war. The Danang International Marathon is the first IAAF-AIMS (International Association of Athletics Federations and Association of International Marathons and Distance Races) certified run in Vietnam. “Where are you from?” And. and when he finally got up to run the last six miles. Sunburnt. As he set his sights towards the finish line. To his surprise. on his short beer break at mile 20. Zaborac’s new friends from mile 20 were there cheering him on as he crossed the finish line. Instead. Zaborac spent the next 20 minutes chatting with his new friends.000 amateur runners and 1. the organisers predict 5. When Zaborac finally looked up and maintained eye contact with one young man. The young men tried to reassure him that they felt no animosity towards him. Zaborac’s audience felt his obvious discomfort. Zaborac found closure.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PULSE ACTIVE Race Information D ATE : | August 2015 Word | 13 . half marathon and a 5km fun run F EES : From W EBSITE : rundanang. 30.300. 2015 T IME : 4am to 11am C OURSES : Runners can sign up for three distances — the full marathon.000 to VND2.000 H OTLINE : 0919 327323 E MAIL : info@pulse.

The company strives to make supplemental 14 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Dao turned her attention to the internet with the launch of Rockit Online in 2013. Now back in Vietnam. “The Vietnamese education landscape wasn’t opening itself up to new ideas or new players.” she says. Courses cost less than at competitive English language centres. Dao is disrupting Vietnam’s education system through technology.9 billion) in funding from Silicon Valley investors. “Education technology provides atypical educators access to students because they no longer need a classroom. but are of comparable quality. The adherence to traditional teaching methods. Rockit offers small classes taught through an online portal. Rockit secured US$500. she works to provide for others the guidance and education she was grateful to receive when growing up. After successfully launching Golden Path Academics.” she explains. school or campus. a technology startup that challenges the traditional classroom model. an education company that offers college counselling and skills training to prepare Vietnamese students to study abroad. but not as you know it earning in a classroom is so out of date.Startup of the Month Hanoi Rockin’ it with Rockit L English language education. affordable and convenient. the founder and CEO of Rockit Online. In 2014. So proclaims Hien education accessible. teachers and textbooks makes it a difficult model to penetrate.000 (VND10. Dao grew up in Hanoi but pursued her graduate education in the United States. “Who will enter that space without that space opening itself up?” The Path of Progress With Rockit. Dao compares standard Vietnamese classrooms to a closed box. .

a level of attention hard to manage with offline class structures. “Career readiness is lacking.Soft Skills While Rockit primarily offers English language courses.” she says. “you don’t look at the computer. Dao contends that Rockit’s model is all about active learning. students rate potential hires after online demos. Video courses are increasingly included in Rockit’s course catalogue. “I want to help learners stick to something they have started. Rockit is paving the way. According to Dao. The startup is currently fundraising for this upcoming venture. Rockit employs teachers from all over the world. especially for supplemental education.” Rockit hopes to supplement Vietnamese college education and to prepare students and young professionals for the quickly globalising workforce. All this makes the growing shift from classroom to computer inevitable. When you teach or learn through their platform. “Many graduates get out of university and don’t even know how to write a CV.” says Dao.” explains Dao. the need for professional development is on the rise. though Vietnamese teachers who have studied (or are currently studying) abroad comprise the majority. Rockit stresses teacher quality and engagement with students. Millennials and Gen-Z-ers are increasingly eschewing traditional schedules in favour of flexibility and convenience. “You look at your teacher and classmates. Rockit’s team calls students before each class and after any sessions they may miss. — Noey Neumark wordvietnam. is one of the region’s weakest. Vietnam’s higher education system PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH Refuting concerns about the rising phobia of ‘screen addiction’. Small classes enable Rockit to emphasise discipline in language learning. voice and | August 2015 Word | 15 . When hiring. now more than ever. offering a lower-cost option. “My vision for long-term expansion would be an education programme that serves people in many aspects of their career and life. It’s hard to ignore that interaction. In Vietnam.” she says. with compromised resources and outdated programming. and students and teachers communicate through video. as these teachers have a solid understanding of how Vietnamese students learn.” Classes are capped at five students.

Many of the ingredients are indigenous to Vietnam. while some come from other countries. The couple also hosts the classes in English. You can also find directions to their different points of sale in Hanoi and Hoi An at savondesaigon. All their handmade products 16 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. lotions. If you haven’t joined it yet. but after visiting Savon de Saigon. this beauty care company is guided by the philosophy of offering natural goods that help your skin to be healthy using the best ingredients Vietnam has to offer. In the calm and supportive atmosphere. thus ensuring a relaxing and enjoyable experience. Prices start from VND490. — Natalia Martinez Savon de Saigon is at 180/58 Nguyen Huu Canh. coconut oil and sunflower oil. Ho Chi Minh City. No race against the clock here! During our class we learned how easy and fun it was to design and make our beauty treats. a French-Vietnamese couple based in Ho Chi Minh City. we had plenty of time to play and learn about their uses and results. you can learn how to make a variety of different products such as are made of natural. we were handed a seemingly endless variety of ingredients. we got a glimpse into the guiding ethos of Savon de Saigon: teaching people just how simple and important it is to keep their skin healthy and clean. Binh Thanh. as well as workshops to learn how to make them yourself. facial serums or lipsticks. The cosmetics brand offers natural beauty products for purchase.Briefings Savon de Saigon HCMC A local cosmetics brand is helping Saigon residents make their own beauty supplies PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER T here is a rapidly growing community that petitions for healthy and natural beauty care. In these lessons. you should probably think again. Moreover. In the near future these entrepreneurs will also start offering a Home Spa service with all kinds of natural and advanced treatments. I’m convinced: this has a chance to be big. Created two years ago by Julien and Thao. harmless ingredients such as rice bran oil.000. Aided by Julien’s advice. One extra perk of Savon de Saigon is that there is no time limit to create your products. Vietnamese or . It might sound cliché.

Photos by Francis Xavier .

of the Month

Heart Reach Australia
A quarter of a century supporting the less well-off in Vietnam


hris O’Dempsey has been
making it happen for some
of Vietnam’s poorest for 25
years. During a trip with
the Christian church in 1990, he
was overwhelmed by the plight
of those with no access to proper
medical facilities, full education or
employment. He’s visited Vietnam
three times a year ever since,
even married into the country. He
recalls his initial visit to Dien Bien
Phu eye hospital in Ho Chi Minh
City. There he saw children as
young as six months old suffering
from preventable eye conditions
like glaucoma and cataracts. On
returning to Australia, he called
the late great Fred Hollows, the
famous eye surgeon who had
been awarded funding from the
Australian government. Fred told
him to contact the heads of the
major hospitals at home, so he
did. Chris immediately formed
Project Vietnam, the forerunner
to Heart Reach Australia.
Originally focused on securing
medical equipment, Chris started

18 | Word August 2015 |

sending over supplies to donate to
local hospitals. It was problematic
and wasn’t always a success.
In response, Heart Reach has
changed its focus. Among their
many acitivities, now they sponsor
local doctors to train in Australia,
paying for them to earn their
surgery stripes abroad, before
plying their trade back home.
When he describes one of the
earliest impacts of his work,
he takes a moment to compose
himself. Imagine a 20-year-old
woman hit by a truck — run over
and left for dead. It was only
because of the donation of one of
eight dialysis machines — the first
had arrived in Saigon just two
weeks earlier — that she was able
to make a full recovery. Written
off to die, the one word she knew
in English, “Thank you,” still
resonates with Chris today.

Long-term Relationships
When we meet at New World
Saigon — the property has
sponsored Heart Reach’s

programmes since 2012 — he
brings Mai with him, an 18-year-old
teenager from the Mekong. She’s
one of hundreds of beneficiaries of
Heart Reach’s work today, where
they encourage people to sponsor
a child. Through this, Mai has been
given the opportunity to reach for
her academic and employment
dreams. The day after our meeting,
she will meet with RMIT in the
hope of securing a much needed
Heart Reach’s next mission is
an ambulance boat for the area
that Mai comes from — Ben Tre.
Without emergency river transport
and first aid in this section of the
Mekong, too many people die
before they even reach a hospital.
An ambulance boat would change
that says Chris, who has promised
delivery by Dec. 1 this year.
It’s a promise he has no intention
of breaking.
To see their work over the last 25
years and support Heart Reach’s
current fundraising effort, go to


Map taken from

20 | Word August 2015 |

000 passengers a day. according to previous estimates. much of the talk in this honourable medium has been on the Saigon Metro System. But take a walk down Hao Nam Street and Hoang Cau and you’ll see giant unconnected pillars silhouetted against the skyline. Vietnam’s capital needs to be transformed. as well as the occasional construction site. ahem. Roads have been closed. Planned to be operational in advance of its cousin to the south. 2012. this doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Yet just because the first phase of Hanoi’s Metro System (Duong sat do thi Ha Noi) avoids the Old Quarter and the area around Hoan Kiem Lake. The new ETA is 2018. And transformation takes time. meaning less comment in the public domain. transportation routes altered.The Hanoi Metro Don’t be fooled. from Cat Linh to Ha Dong. for the Hanoi Metro System to both be constructed and carry its estimated 200. and the lives of almost every central-living or working resident in the city have been affected. That we have placed such a focus on this infrastructure project should come as little surprise. Both. one being the need to make way for stations on the metro system. Now we hear it is over budget. Words by Nick Ross. ahem. they should be up and running by the end of the year. Photo by Julie Vola I n recent months. It’s the metro system in the capital which will be completed first. 2011. not the one in Saigon. started in Jan. The Saigon Metro — while years away — is having a disruptive effect on Downtown Saigon. construction on Line 3 — which runs from Nhon to the Hanoi Railway Station — commenced in Sep. especially in a city as historic as Hanoi. . Work on Line 2A. The incident raised eyebrows and tempers. Many reasons were cited for this year’s culling of century-old trees in Hanoi. But.

Nothing chemical here.Briefings HCMC The G ift W Presents come in many forms. Here’s one that women might like hen I was told I would be getting a gift from Ma Belle Box. And then inside that was a bottle of coconut oil (60ml). my next question. She turned up at the office. I smiled. I started opening. Life is Like a Box of Chocolates… It’s been more than six months since I decided to cut down the amount of chemicals applied on my skin. every two months you will receive a Ma Belle Box containing a selection of four to five travel-sized products. Inside the first box was a second box. and a Ma Belle Box brochure. box in hand. coconut oil. It was so strong I knew there must be perfume inside.000. Marion Vigot. They all come from natural sources. please. However. They could be soaps. — Vu Ha Kim Vy For info click on mabellebox. mostly locally sourced. a Rouge Edition lipstick. Will every Ma Belle Box will have the same five products? For VND500. The restaurant-style black box. But little did I expect the box to arrive with the woman who’s created it. It’s party of the attraction of it all. essential oils. Marion. and that was a long time ago — but I at least remembered that belle means beautiful. “What is it?” I asked. “Just some stuff for you!” she replied. Pencil me in for another one. lipsticks. but with cosmetics. The answer is no. I had no idea what to expect. I shower and wash my hair with baking soda. these five items grabbed my PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER . especially when the present comes with an attractive aroma. a make-up remover. a flyer from Kenzo with some perfume samples. UV protection creams. make-up removers. So. “Later!” She walked out of the door and got on her friend’s bike Opening gifts is always exciting. My French skills are pretty poor — I studied the language for two years at university. a face and body soap. condition my hair with apple vinegar and moisturize my aging skin (I’m 30!) with olive oil. “Can I open it now?” I continued. a roll-on essential oil (5ml).

com | August 2015 Word | 23 .wordvietnam.

if Vietnam’s younger generation has their say. Their generation suffered terribly at the hands of war and poverty. and this was already the lifestyle of urban dwellers in Vietnam’s big cities. To attract residents. destroy it and build a Brave New moneymaking World. and for the including the block between Thi Sach. modern apartments. This was supported by a number of TV series. why can’t Saigon and Hanoi do the same? We don’t know how this tug-ofwar will end. Saigon’s young have taken to this block like a disconnected duck takes to water. Which must confuse the decisionmakers. these new areas were selling apartment style-living and dressing it up as an aspirational lifestyle. So. it will — they don’t want to let go. Nguyen Sieu. Flaking stairwells boast era tiles and. By Saigon standards. Trendy cafes have opened up — Ban Khuang and El Sol — a gallery lines two floors of stairwell inside one entrance and a couple of rice restaurants serve up lunchtime binh dan fare. walls and foundations — fares is difficult to tell. Van Minh Moi. smashed out window pains remain unreplaced. The Wrecking Ball? Will the block survive? Well. Yet the block is in disrepair. to the chagrin of the developers. that’s old. Located close to the Opera House. Right now. For the sake of history. new civilization. and the bannister of that outdoor stairwell is held together with chicken wire. It’s a generational thing. All they want to do is bury it.Building of the Month The Apartment Block on Nguyen Sieu Past and Present Many of the original apartment blocks have now been knocked down. remain 24 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. But wind back time half a century and more. Thai Van Lung and Cao Ba Quat. the real estate they were sat on was better used for all things new. if you drove through the rapidly expanding suburbs you would see the following banner: Do Thi Moi. labyrinthine alleys connect one apartment with the other. They were in poor condition. Where does all this nostalgia come from? Our answer. I just hope I’m wrong. With its magnificent inner courtyard and winding staircase. where affluent families’ lives would be storied from within their beautiful. — Nick Ross PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN A few years ago. Paint peels. this downtown apartment building looks like it was built in the 1960s. Some. New suburb. They’ve seen how other cities have married old with new. fortunately. But today’s youth has travelled. . How the structure — the supporting beams. my money is with the developers and the decision-makers. | August 2015 Word | 25

list HCMC

Optimist Club moves to a Saturday on Aug. 7 but returns to Thursday after. DJ Ouch plays on Aug. 23

Saigon diva DJ Lotus Disco is leaving. His performance on Aug. 29 is likely to be a big one.




camps to DJ
nights and
Saigon might
not be all
the busy this
month, but
it’s still got
to offer those
who haven’t
taken off for
the summer

Summer Camp
VinSpace, Q2 and Q7
Until Aug. 17
Got a child to offload for the day?
Perhaps even the week?
Just kidding. Got a budding
Picasso on your hands? Let their
creative juices run free at VinSpace.
From the deepest darkest depths of
space to the mysteries of Ancient
Egypt, superheroes to dinosaurs,
each week is themed for maximum
The VinSpace Summer Camp is at
6 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 and
at S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7 and costs
US$30 (VND652,000) for the day
or US$135 (VND2.9 million) for the
whole week. Both options include all
art materials. For more info click on

Optimist Club
The Observatory, Q4
Friday Aug. 7
Featuring regulars 1DAN, Lotus
Disco and El Capitan, Optimist
Club is usually a Thursday night
institution, at least for the last 140
weeks anyway. This time round
it comes to us on a Friday, but it’s
still free before midnight. Come
later and pay VND100,000.
And for those still loving those
Thursday nights, check out the
show on Aug. 23 with the deep
house tunes of Swiss veteran DJ
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC

26 | Word August 2015 |


It’s a New Dawn

Canvas and Wine

Le Meridien, Q1
Wednesday Aug. 12

Vinspace, Q7
Thursday Aug. 13

TravelMassive Saigon has
teamed up with WebinTravel
(the conference element of
ITB Asia) to bring a special
evening event to Vietnam on
Aug. 12.
According to the organisers,
this is the go-to travel event
of 2015 in Vietnam, with
international speakers, plenty
of networking and of course
some fun, too. All at Saigon’s
newest five-star, Le Meridien.
The event is free of charge and
will run from 6pm to 9.30pm. It
will be in held in the Grand Ball
Room at Le Meridien Saigon, 3C
Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC.
Places are limited, so please RSVP

The title of this one has us
interested. What’s canvas
though? Something you paint
on? Cool. In this session your
professional painting instructor
dims the lights a little (no hand
holding ‘til afterwards please)
and takes a look at Saigon in
low light. Get stimulated by a
subject that has inspired artists
for hundreds of years. It’s all
soft glows, bright glares and
smoky outlines around here.
Come and illuminate Saigon
like never before.
Canvas & Wine is from 6.30pm
to 9.30pm at VinSpace Art Studio,
S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7 and costs
US$38 (VND826,000) but is 15
percent cheaper if you come in a | August 2015 Word | 27

but not without one hell of a party set for Saturday Aug. A good chance 28 | Word August 2015 | Cheezy Gangztaz The Observatory. Saigon might not be all the busy this month.000 after midnight. Don’t miss what should be an especially flamboyant performance. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Q4 Friday Aug. To book email info@ vin-space. For more info click on vin-space. 12 The Saigon Rugby Club (our . 21 along with local legends Nick Simon and Mike Pham.000 after. Q4 Saturday Aug. or call 0907 729846. That’s right Lotus Disco is leaving. but it’s still got something to offer those who haven’t taken off for the summer group of four and 20 percent cheaper if you’re a teacher. HCMC Rugby 10s Tournament RMIT. to check out some upcoming talent in the city. Just in time for the World Cup. Entrance is VND100. Entrance is free before midnight and VND100. 21 This eclectic local duo will be at it again on Aug. all conspiring to funk up your Friday night. Q7 Saturday Sep. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh.ToDo list HCMC 1. HCMC Lotus Disco’s Farewell The Observatory. RMIT is playing host to a Rugby 10s Tournament in early September From summer camps to DJ nights and networking events. 29 The Observatory will say farewell to that dancing diva of a DJ everyone’s come to love. Q4.

as well as the usual suspects from Ho Chi Minh City and | August 2015 Word | 29 .PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE SAIGON GECKOS 1 new best friends) and Alfresco’s Group are hosting the inaugural Rugby 10s tournament to be played on the RMIT grounds in Saigon South on Sep. This one should be well worth the trip out to District 7. 702 Nguyen Van Linh. wordvietnam. Q7. which we can’t wait to try. The day begins at 11am at RMIT South Saigon Campus. All are welcome. For more info contact the club on saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo. Australia and Japan. Round robin games will culminate in two finals and there will be a number of other activities on the day to make it familyfriendly including a bouncy castle. The club is also in negotiations to bring a famousname rugby player out as ambassador for the event. Six teams will play from Hong Kong.

it might be a good idea to get lost. To arrange a factory tour. multi-level space is spread out over three floors. next to Annam Gourmet Pocket Earth is doing everything to make sure you don’t get lost Saigon Scooter Centre moves its showroom to Thao Dien Originally opened in Hoi An. this could be the perfect companion not just for city lovers fed up with slow internet speeds (more sharks. A new offline travel app by GeoMagik has been released to help you do just that. only water — the produce is entirely free from any kind of pesticide or bacteria. it’s currently available in a basic version for free. please contact Caroline at caroline@citifarm. Providing travellers a complete route-finder package including public transit info. 2. new services. Pocket Earth is available for iOS users on App Store Saigon Scooter Gets a New Showroom in Q2 After flirting with a new showroom in Tan Binh.IN Just HCMC New salad joints. their story starts with Mr. CitiFarm Pioneers Urban Farming The recently opened CitiFarm is proud to be a pioneer in the trend of urban farming. darts is the name of the game here (Ice Blue was a founder member of the darts league. They go into local production this month. anyone?). ever. Their mission is to bring a safe source of vegetables to consumers in a farm-to-table model. The new. Concerned about food security. cycle and hiking maps. Q1. With areas devoted to both soft and steel-tip darts. Metiseko has now set up shop in Saigon Tandoor has moved to a new location on Ngo Duc Ke 1. 3. bars and toyshops. the watering hole will open daily at 10am and will serve up Vietnamese and western facebook. and while the menu and theme will stay the same. CitiFarm grows it vegetables in a completely contained environment. Saigon Scooter Centre has ditched the hinterland and headed to District 2 to set up new offices and a bike rental centre in Thao and on 30 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. as well as the usual ability to find places of interest. Ice Blue Bar has reopened its doors on Hai Ba Trung. you can get the PRO version. and since seeing is believing. Originally based on delivering food free from radiation in the aftermath of the Fukushima disaster. not using any soil. Check them out at citifarm. actually get lost. but for the type of person looking to go that little bit off the beaten track. after all). For the price of a coffee. HCMC. Ice Blue’s new location is at 24 Hai Ba Trung. and it’s called Pocket Earth. who brought the hydroponic technology from Japan to Vietnam in Currently stocking over 150 premium imported Italian helmets. make up for men and all the other odd bits and bobs that pop up in our Inbox 1 Ice Blue Reopens on Hai Ba Trung After 21 years of satisfying customers on Dong Khoi. they’d love you to come and Pocket Earth When you need to find yourself. Tanabe Kazuo. that’s just inconvenient. a wide range of accessories including . With 3G not reaching many of Vietnam’s rural areas. restaurants and tourist sites. thousands of parts. But don’t like. which offers people the ability to explore the world without worrying 2 about getting actually lost.

Tel: (08) 3930 4839. and are continuing to expand their “fundamental design concept based on Vietnamese traditions and landscapes combined with the elegance of contemporary fashion”. they’ve become too big After years shacked up next to KFC on Hai Ba Trung (the restaurant was originally on Vo Van Tan). So scoot in for a bargain. because they’re opening another new location at expat hub Snap Café in Thao Dien. Just don’t tell them we said that — it’s the laziest pun we could think of.30am to 7. The restaurant is online at tandoorvietnam. they are feminine.30pm and is located just behind Thao Dien Pearl. Describing itself as a ready-to-wear brand. Tandoor is at 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke. and the brainchild of French designers including creative director Florence Mussou. apparently. Q2. Q1. Saigon Scooter Centre is open every day from 9am until 4 wordvietnam. A lot like us! They even got a mention in The Guardian | August 2015 Word | 31 .3 Respro UK anti pollution masks. HCMC. accessories and homewares. Their new workshop is also now open with over 100 classic scooters in stock. to stay put in Hoi An and Hanoi. Really well. Established in 1997. Their new address is 77A Hanoi Highway. chic and elegant. they also have over 30 classic Italian vintage scooters for sale. and continues serving up the mainly north Indian cuisine that has made it a favourite for almost 20 years. Tandoor has moved to a new location on Ngo Duc Ke. Thao Dien.30pm Metiseko Now Open at Snap Tandoor Moves Metiseko do clothes. Simply put. the new one-floored venue has a large dining area and a cozy atmosphere. Woohoo! Metiseko ‘Eco Chic Lifestyle’ is at 32 Tran Ngoc Dien Q2 and is open every day from 8.

.com Saigon Artbook Photos by Kyle Phanroy A collaging workshop took place in Vin Gallery’s new studio space alongside a pop-up exhibition of Vitaliya Letnitskaya’s original creations. Did someone say open bar? 32 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.overscene HCMC DigiPost Turns 10 Photos by StudioDAG Ho Chi Minh City’s advertising and media production crowd got together to help DigiPost celebrate 10 years in town. beauty and millionaire Photos provided by Ho Tram Resort Casino Vietnam Fashion TV showed that its brand has got some real staying power at its recent partycum-fashion-show-top-end-dining event at Ho Tram Grand.

Different Medium Photos by Francis Xavier The art director at Elle. and they all turned up to Saigon Ranger to get comfortably numb with a Pink Floyd tribute band from Singapore… and we'll take a look Same Form.If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage. please email | August 2015 Word | 33 . Dzung Yoko gathered together a collection of work from his shoots to create a solo exhibition at Dia Projects Pink F loyd tribute Photos by Francis Xavier Is anybody out there? A bunch of people apparently.

through her paintings the artist hopes you can feel her message: “Just like in human society.bandcamp. Tay Ho Saturday Aug. Ly Hoang Ly and John Lee. Who says that August is dead in Hanoi? Prism Manzi Art Space. Ba Dinh Until 8m2 Goethe-Institut Hanoi. Le Thuy. the exhibition will include a series of paintings on silk. 25. and cultural memory in Vietnam. For more info on MiNombreEsDolores! Click on mned. sound and tactile navigation. The installation will run until Aug.ToDo 1 listHanoi From live music to exhibitions and Greek cuisine all the way through to carnivals. 17 Prism is a multi-media sound and video installation project that explores the relationship between bodies. Le Thuy’s first public exhibition. Adventure. The show kicks off at 9pm and Cong Ca Phe is at 100 Xuan Dieu. Tay Ho Until Saturday Aug. Comedy) Tuesday Aug. Here’s the line-up: Tuesday Aug. Entitled The Order. Action. Drama) Tuesday Aug. home and displacement. Asi Es. Hanoi O Auto da Compadecida (2000. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. the lively shows mix two languages within the vocals to create something he likes to call Spanglish. Part of the regular music night organised by Vietnamese actor and musician. Drama ) The films kick off at 8pm and La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. and construction and destruction. until Saturday Aug. Tay Ho Every Tuesday in August La Bicicleta continues its Tuesday film nights this month with a showcase featuring the best of Brazilian movies and — if you’ve seen it — perhaps one of the best flicks of the 21st century so far. Crime. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh From Thursday Aug. 8 2 Brazilian Films at La Bicicleta La Bicicleta. 25 Central do Brasil (1998. Hidalgo will be performing original songs from his second album. Hanoi MiNombreEsDolores! Cong Ca Phe. Entrance is free of charge. Cidade de Deus (The City of Gods). through an embodied experience attending to the sense of sight. Drama) Tuesday Aug. The collaborative work of Patricia Nguyen. but what they do [is to] contribute to making a new order”. Tay Ho. 18 Cidade de Deus (2002. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. Crime. 25 Chula will be hosting the work of young artist. shifting landscapes. Hanoi. Prism offers an experience that challenges the viewer to question the relationship between notions of memory and amnesia. 11 Chilean travelling musician Matias Hidalgo aka MiNombreEsDolores! Will be playing at Cong Ca Phe in Tay Ho on Saturday Aug. Played with an acoustic guitar mixed in with soundbox loop effects. there are also people who want to contradict and change. 34 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Vissay. 13 The Goethe-Institut Hanoi will be hosting the photo installation 8m2 . 4 Tropa de Élite ( Chula Fashion House is at 43 Nhat Chieu. 17 The Order Chula. 8.

Le Cat Trong Ly will perform at Manzi this month 3 4 from Aug. 15. 8m2 at the Goethe-Institut documents the living space of Vietnam’s migrant workers 5. Performing her latest creations as well as some well-known and wellloved songs ‘from the ages’. 13 by acclaimed artist Nguyen The Son. the exhibition title refers to the minimum living space requirement in Vietnam during the subsidized economy era prior to Doi Moi. 14 and Saturday Aug. 14 and Saturday Aug. she will be accompanied by cellist Nguyen Thanh Tu. oboist Nguyen Hoang Tung and pianist Vu Dang Quoc Viet. at times it is for up to eight people. The number’s up! Travelling Chilean musician MiNombreEsDolores! aka Matias Hidalgo | August 2015 Word | 35 . Ba Dinh Friday Aug. 18. It has been ranked as one of the best films of the 21st Century 3. The exhibition will open at the Goethe-Institut. Le Thuy 2. People who move to the city in quest of work often live in severe conditions for years. The project documents the small corners of these living environments and gives the workers a voice by incorporating their personal belongings into the artwork. 5 wordvietnam. It will then run daily until Aug. Work by young Vietnamese artist. 15 Acclaimed Danang-born singer songwriter Le Cat Trong Ly will be back at Manzi on Friday Aug. 30 from 9am to 7pm Haiku for the Fall Manzi Art Space. The City of Gods will be shown at La Bicicleta on Aug. Says the artist: “After half a century of struggling. Son addresses the individual consequences of industrialisation in Vietnam. many people still have to toss and turn in that 8m2.” Through his photo installation. Ba Dinh at 6pm on Thursday Aug. 13. 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc.1. but it is not 8m2 for just one person. Addressing the living environment of Vietnam’s migration workers.

Chef Shahar Lubin will be preparing a special menu of his favourite Hellenic dishes. Ba Dinh Thursday Aug. Together with a special music selection encompassing Greek music from five So. This theme will be brought out with a series of large-size paintings on oil and lacquer. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De.ToDo listHanoi From live music to exhibitions and Greek cuisine all the way through to carnivals. whiskeysoaked night of American country and bluegrass music with the band. Entrance TBA EM-BODY Manzi Art Space. the human figures in Lam’s work seem to both appear and disappear. Opening on Aug. Who says that August is dead in Hanoi? 1 Ly’s concerts are VERY popular. 30 For the last week of by Aug. 21. 24 to Sunday Aug. Entrance TBA 1. mandolin. 27 “Two women and a duck make . Cao Boi on aggressive and dark. email manzihanoi@ gmail. Hanoi or online at facebook. Daluva is bringing Greece to Hanoi. Hanoi Late Summer Dinner Hanoi Cooking Centre. 5. get ready to spice up your drinking and dining with a dose of olive oil and feta. Some will be traditional. to reserve your seat. Entrance is free. 15 Bring your cowboy hat and dancing shoes for a rip-roaring. Ba Dinh Greek Week Daluva. Some will be famous classics and others will be obscure specials. banjo and cajón. telecaster guitar. at others sensual and alluring. Lam is an abstract and expressionist painter whose interest lies in depicting and (dis)figuring the human body and psyche. At times 36 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.30pm on Friday Aug. The opening reception is at 6. their parts dismantled and reassembled. Hai Ba Trung. Ba Dinh From Friday Aug. 21 Hanoian Doan Hoang Lam will be the latest artist to exhibit his work at Manzi with his show. Work by Hanoian artist Doan Hoang Lam Bluegrass and Country Night CAMA ATK. 15. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. the outfit includes double bass. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich. their whole buried and exhumed. Doors are at 8pm. Hanoi's only five-piece countrycrooning band. 21. The Notting Hill Carnival is coming to Hanoi this year courtesy of Skank the Tank Soundsystem 2. acoustic guitar. while others will be reinterpreted. Tay Ho Monday Aug. This is an act that MUST be seen live. Ba Dinh and the shows kick off at 8pm. Hai Ba Trung Saturday Aug. EM-BODY. And don’t forget your toga! Daluva is at 33 To Ngoc Van. Tay Ho.

a market,” goes the ancient
Vietnamese proverb. And while
Hanoi Cooking Centre (HCC) don’t
compare themselves to ducks, they
are certainly going to do their best
to bring the market to the table on
Thursday Aug. 27.
The special dinner will cost
VND580,000 (beverages will be sold
separately at bar prices) and will
consist of a range of dishes cooked up
using the freshest, seasonal ingredients
bought from the local market. The
dinner will be prepared by chef Tracey
Lister and her team at HCC.
Space are limited so please book
in advance by emailing info@ or calling (04)
3715 0088. HCC is at 44 Chau Long, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi

Notting Hill Carnival
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
Saturday Aug. 29


The Notting Hill Carnival in London
is one of the world’s biggest street
carnivals. A celebration of Caribbean
culture, this year the Skank the Tank
Reggae Soundsystem will be doing
everything in their power to bring
the sounds, sights and tastes of the
West Indies to ATK.
There may not be any steel drum
bands in Hanoi, but there’ll be live
percussion into the mix. Add to that
some heady rum-based cocktails,
free fancy dress and a line up of
Sub Elements DJs, and you’ve got
onehelluva night in the capital.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
Ba Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

Once reserved exclusively for royalty,
tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.

Netball Tournament
Australian Embassy, Ba Dinh
Saturday Sep. 12
The Hanoi Ois are hosting an open
netball tournament on the afternoon
of Saturday Sep. 12 to celebrate the
start of the 2015-2016 season and to
welcome new players.
The tournament will be held at the
Australian Embassy and will include a
quick orientation/training session for
those who don’t know how to play.
Sign up in groups or alone — teams of
seven will be put together accordingly.
The tournament is free to join and
all genders and levels are welcome,
including absolute beginners.
Participants will get a free beer or
soft drink for joining! BBQ and other
refreshments will be on sale.
Alternatively, come along as a
spectator and bring your friends
and family for a fun afternoon of
To sign up, email hanoinetball@ by Sep. 7. The Australian
Embassy is at 8 Dao Tan, Ba Dinh,
Hanoi, just behind the Lotte Center

WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) •
FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014) | August 2015 Word | 37






Amato is the brainchild of the people who brought us West Lake favourite, Cousins

Kem Tiamo brings handmade Italian ice-cream to downtown Hanoi

KAfe opens its eighth outlet in The Yard, the newly conceived space that has been modeled on London’s Borough Market

Last Year’s Hanoi Open Exhibition at Workroom Four



Kem Tiamo


If you like your ice-cream and Fanny
no longer tickles the places that other
ice-creams just can’t reach, then
check out Kem Tiamo, a relatively
new gelato joint close to the lake.
The work of French-Italian


38 | Word August 2015 |

entrepreneur Laurent Marietta —
a graduate of Carpigiani Gelato
University in Bologna, Italy — the
24 flavours of ice-cream, gelato and
sorbet are handmade and are served
up with the likes of waffles or crepes,
or even just on their own. Marietta
likes to experiment with Vietnamese
fruit. So expect some more interesting
variations appearing on the menu
like blackberry (dau tam) sorbet with
wine. Also soon-to-be-served is a
selection of mocktails and teas from
around the world.
Kem Tiamo is at 11 Ba Trieu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi or online at

KAfe at The Yard
KAfe just doesn’t know when to stop.
Already with seven outlets in Hanoi
and counting, coffee house number
eight opened last month in the newly
conceived, Zone 9 lookalike space,
The Yard.
Modelled after London’s Borough
Market, the hope is that The Yard
— which is located at 67 Pho Duc
Chinh, Ba Dinh — will turn into a
buzzing, urban shopping and dining
complex. KAfe is located in its
As part of the opening of its eighth
outlet, KAfe is also launching its own
brand name tea and coffee. Using
organic tea and coffee products,
according to the press release, their
“mission is to support the farmers in

making high-quality and sustainable
cups of coffee and tea that will give
our customers an extraordinary and
delightful experience.”
Best go and try it, then.
For more on KAfe click on

Call to Artists
Part of Work Room Four’s mission is
to support aspiring artists in Hanoi
and further afield in Vietnam. With
two successful open exhibitions
already under their belt — last time
round they showcased 122 artworks
by 78 artists — they are now doing a
call out for the threequel.
Here’s an excerpt of their letter to
the general public.
Dear friends of Work Room Four,
We are putting out the call to artists
for the Third Hanoi Open Exhibition...
We are very proud to say that The
Hanoi Open exhibition is now in it’s
third year. The exhibition aims to draw
together a broad range of varied works
by established and unknown artists,
professional and amateur.
The exhibition is a unique showcase
for art in a variety of mediums; painting,
sculpture, photography and print.
The Open Exhibition will run from
Sep. 13 until Oct. 4, 2015. The deadline
for both emailing and delivering
submissions is Saturday Sep. 5.
If you want to get involved, click
on and check out
the submission details.




Whitewashed bare-brick walls,
wooden floors, French era tiling
and an international bistro menu.
Sound familiar? Well, it should do
as the recently opened Amato just a
whisper away from the Opera House
is the latest venture of the team
behind the wildly successful West
Lake eatery, Cousins.
Serving up an international tapas
menu — think croquettas, Iberian
pork cheek, venison stew, salads,
pate, trillettes, frog legs and more —
combined with a breakfast menu and
a bistro-style set lunch (VND280,000
for two course, VND320,000 for
three), expect this new offering to be
every bit as good as its predecessor.
The place is only small — it’s a
25-seater with a mezzanine level and
a couple of tables out front — but it’s
got high ceilings and is bang next to
the jazz club. Making it the perfect
stopping point next time you’re in
Amato is at 1a Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470. To see more do
a search on Facebook




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Did you know?
Only 2.4% of all the water is fresh water, only a fraction of which is drinkable.
Clean water from your tap - only from BWT! | August 2015 Word | 39

it’s outdoors. it’s Eden Bar. Tenishia and Huy Dx .overscene hanoi Eden Turns One Photos by Julie Vola It’s summertime. they can put on a show. This one featured DJs Son Tung. it’s their first birthday and it’s… PAAAAAAARTY! 40 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. when the big boys like Viettel come running. As Hero Bar The Tiny Music Club Photos by Vu Bao Khanh Australian singer-songwriter Floyd Thursby was the latest musician to grace the Hanoi Social Club’s acoustic music nights It’s Me Photos by Vu Bao Khanh Anyone who says the Vietnamese nightclub has been replaced by the Beer Club. think again.

The exhibition portraits were taken by Emily and we'll take a look Old Sounds of New Day Photos by Vu Bao Khanh The first in a series of xam performances — traditional street-style folk music played by wandering minstrels — the show at Manzi featured musicians Xuan Hoach and Thanh Hoai For a Cause Photos by Julie Vola Clickspace’s Spacebar Café played host to a fundraising photographic exhibition to raise much-needed money for the monk-run orphanage at Thinh Dai Temple in Ha Nam.If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage. . please email news@wordvietnam.

Insider The Big Wet / Australia's Cash Cow / S**RTS!/ The Balleria / Papa Rome / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Croatia / Routefinder / The Motorbike Diaries Photo by Kyle Phanroy 42 | Word August 2015 | .

com | August 2015 Word | 43 .wordvietnam.

com .Insider 44 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.

Sorry to get all ‘fun police’ on you. You’ve been dreading it. this means at least four to five storms and the usual tropical lows for Hanoians. The plait. cities to more or less shut down and unfortunately. Low maintenance is key when you’re bouncing between appointments. The natural look. Comb your hair super tight and put it in a tail for a hassle-free waxed look. meeting your crush or just hanging out with your buds. rubber boots and a raincoat are the obvious objects ‘de rigeur’ in the wet season. and by style we mean hairstyle. and whether you like it or not. you’re about to get wet. check out our nifty little infographic on the next page. So put away those brightly coloured tank tops. set that lion’s mane free and you've got yourself some luxurious waves. For a breakdown and comparison of all the stats that matter. Who do you think you are? The Australian Prime Minister? All the signs of climate change are here.Denial Stop denying it. No styling charge necessary. The high wet ponytail. down south the weather comes in two varieties: dry or wet. Fashion Far from taking ourselves too seriously. They have been for weeks. and those ridiculous denim cut-offs. I’m talking fashion. put your hair together in a braid before it evens starts raining. It’s August. but bear that in mind next time you’re posing for a wet weather snap in your neighbours’ ‘urban canoe’. the rain gets heavy in the Autumn and Winter. ‘jandals’ if you like sounding like a Kiwi). and asked the whole Word team for their top tips. and by regular we mean daily. stare confidently into middle distance and shake that impressive INSIDER NATIONAL The Big Wet When we get wet in Vietnam. but when it comes to hair there are a few different options. These are the types of flashflood inducing rains that cause schools to close (yay!). Just keep your helmet on until the rain stops. Whether you’re going to work. According to the National Centre for Hydro-Meteorological Forecasting. we get really wet. you don’t want a bit of rain ruining your style. While up north and in the north centre. Once it stops and your hair starts to dry. look as cool as possible taking it off. don’t do anything. and a short history of some hectic wet | August 2015 Word | 45 . the country is about to undergo its annual drenching. we need to talk about what’s important when the rains do come. lives to be lost. Flash Flood From Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. For the forward thinkers among us. If you’re like us and you live your life in slow-motion replay. sure. and how to rock that wet weather look. Also makes you look 17 percent more sporty. ladies and gentlemen. Infographic by Vu Kim Ha Vy wordvietnam. Of course flip-flops (‘thongs’ if your Australian. Jon Aspin and Natalia Martinez take a look at some of the things that really matter when the heavens open up. and when it does. it’s time to break out a poncho my friends. In Ho Chi Minh City. but don’t act surprised. you’re in Vietnam. expect regular heavy downpours. you’ve known about it for ages — since last year at least.

darlings. Believe me. There is nothing worse for your stomach than eating bun cha that’s been cooked on a street that has received a regular splash of 46 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. decided to commit suicide into the pool. My Converse were full of water. Do we need to say more? Top Tips for the Marooned Ok. Nothing’s worse than having soaked plugs when you’re caught in a rainstorm.” — Niko Savvas “If you drive an old Vespa or a Lambretta.” — Vu Kim Ha Vy “Pardon the pun but ‘splash out’ on a good raincoat. Half expecting to find a burglar’s dead body trapped under a branch in my pool. this was my Donnie Darko . my friends.” — David Mann “Don’t be afraid of getting wet. taking out some roof tiles. it uprooted itself and covered half the pool and half the garden with water from cars driving over potholes. but if pants are a must. It might be dry there. I can’t stand going all day with wet feet.. Confronting this scene at three o’clock in the morning was one of the strangest things I’d ever experienced. No joke. a dolphin fountain and an outdoor set of table and chairs with it. Trust me. character to the whole garden. I know. my underwear was saturated and I ended up leaving a small pond on the floor of my building’s elevator.” — Gabriel Villalobos Sh*t Happens Having recently moved into a new villa. always wear a sheer white blouse. You’ll never win. preferably loosely buttoned. One other fashion tip for the ladies if you're not looking at attracting unwanted attention. You’ll be snapped up by waiting talent scouts in no time. This was no sapling. and only wet market ladies. your street is flooded and you’re marooned in your own home — which is by now crawling with fleeing insects — here’s a few top tips and stories from the Word team to make your wait more useful: “Rainboots are de rigueur for the wet market ladies.”— Noey Neumark “Don’t play chicken with the rain. or perhaps if you are. Shopping in hand and just two blocks from home. I’ve never tried to outrun a rainstorm since. I was feeling well pleased with the leafy green backyard and pool that I’d inherited. After just a few seconds down it came. you should have two rubber bands in your wallet. Expect a few funny stares. always carry spare spark plugs. one night during what I considered to be only a mild storm.head of hair out like you’re walking onto the set of Casino Royale. so when it’s poured down every day at the same time for the last month. the ‘bread-fruit’ tree that provided the most shade. all at once. to be waterproof” — Kieran Crowe “Avoid certain street foods on rainy days. one time I decided to go for it. True story.000 roadside ‘body condoms’ are only good for one ride before they tear apart..” — Harry Hodge “Go back to your own country. But I’m a pessimist. You can roll you pants up to your knees and secure them with the rubber bands. Or sniggered at by 10 year olds. poncho stashed naively under my seat.”— Simon Stanley “Wear shorts all the time.” — Nick Ross “There’s no greater feeling than watching other people being bothered by the rain.” — Devin Monaghan “I keep a fan at work in case my shoes get soaked by the rain. Then.” — Jill Kester “Don’t be surprised when your ten-dollar ‘waterproof North Face’ bag you bought in a street market in Peru turns out not in fact. and let’s face it. I live in a penthouse and keep a raft ready just in case. Buying the VND10.

com | August 2015 Word | 47 .moment. Luckily we weren’t in the pool when it happened. always. I even looked up in anticipation of a falling satellite. drive safely and always. we were devastated that our garden would never be the same. So look out for falling trees during the rain. always stick to the middle of the road. wordvietnam. Awakening my housemate to break the news.

000 1.800 Tokyo (1.500 2.718 mm in 1908.THE BIG WET The southern capital has an average rainfall of about 1.000 Singapore (2.000 800 . with about 90% concentrated between May and November.680 mm) Hoang Sa 1. The driest weather is in January when an average of only 18 mm of rainfalls and the wettest weather is in August when there is an average of 343 mm.143 mm) Washington DC (1.949 mm) Hanoi (1.757 mm) Doha (75 mm) . A TALE OF TWO CITIES HO CHI MINH CITY The capital averages 1.200 < 800 Truong Sa 500 Jakarta (1.075 mm) HCMC (1.2. HANOI mm VIETNAMESE MAP OF TOTAL ANNUAL RAINFALL DISTRIBUTION Total annual rainfall (mm) 2.524 mm) Sao Paulo (1.500 > 2.680 mm of rainfall per year.949 mm per year with a record high of 2.400 .623 mm) Miami (1.520 mm) Phnom Penh (1.1.000 .397 mm) 2.049 mm) Bergen (2.273 mm) Hong Kong (2.281 mm) Shanghai (1.128 mm) Manila (2.It’s rare that any significant rainfall is reported in January. February and March. Las Vegas (101 mm) 48 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. The average number of rainy days is 159 days per year.407 mm) Siem Reap (1.209 mm) Bombay (2. or about 140 mm per month from an average of 146 rainy days per year.2.400 New York City ( Darwin (1.600 .800 AVERAGE ANNUAL RAINFALL OF OTHER CITIES 2.041 mm) Milan (990 mm) Chicago (863 mm) Manchester (806 mm) Toronto (762 mm) London (736 mm) Edinburgh (660 mm) Bejing (635 mm) Berlin (584 mm) Stockholm (508 mm) Adelaide (546mm) Madrid (431mm) Los Angeles (378 mm) Dubai.198 mm) 1.

Nov.Binh Thuan to Can Tho .508 hectares of rice fields destroyed or damaged DURIAN .Central and Highlands . 2006 .Central .org .6. injured or missing .Mar. Le Loi and Nguyen Hue also suffer.Mekong Delta .9.Thousands of houses flooded BIGGEST RECORDED TYPHOONS HIT IN VIETNAM XANGSANE 2010 2010 2012 .Oct.30 dead or missing . Binh Quoi and Ngo Tat To (Binh Thanh).Oct.Dozens of ships destroyed .Quang Binh to Ha Tinh . many fatal .Hai Phong to Quang Ninh .000 dead or missing .888 ships sunk 1997 LINDA . 2010 .2. Hoang Mai and Thanh Dam are also affected.3. as well as Pham The Hien and Phu Dinh Quay (Q8).Nov.32 people dead or missing . Le Duan and Nguyen Khuyen. are all prone to flooding. Luong Dinh Cua (Q2). 2013 .Central .220 houses destroyed or damaged .Ninh Binh to Hai Phong .30 people dead.590 people dead. 2006 .890. 2008 .Dec.3.000 lives lost .Central . dulieudiali.Central .Sep.70 either dead or missing .452 houses flooded . 2010 .579 ships sunk .North and Central . Van Than and Lo Gom (Q6). HANOI Streets like Thai Thinh.336 houses destroyed and damaged SON TINH KETXANA LEKIMA 2008 2009 2013 2011 .Oct.Central .Sep.Thousands of houses damaged 2013 CONSON HAIYAN . apipnm.119. Do Quang Dau and Bui Vien in the backpacker area. Outside the centre some other streets that you may have problems transiting are Huynh Tan Phat (Q7). 2013 .500 houses destroyed MEKKHALA . 1971 .100.000 houses and 224.Nov.BIGGEST RECORDED FLOODS IN VIETNAM . Vu Trong Phung.537 houses destroyed or damaged .Sep.The Red River dyke damaged .800 casualties. Kha Van Can (Thu Duc).265 people dead or missing . 2007 .61 dead or missing . 1997 . 2008 .514 dead. Nguyen Trai and Thai Ha all have bad luck during flood season.300 houses destroyed or damaged .Binh Thuan to Ca Mau . 4 and 5. Quan Nhan.The North .Central . Nguyen Xien.May 2006 . Downtown streets like Le Thanh Ton.Aug.Nov. Streets like Nguyen Chi Thanh and Pham Huy Thong in Ba Dinh District around Ngoc Khanh Lake are usually under water for several hours when the rainfall exceeds 50mm per day.180 people dead or missing .300 houses destroyed or damaged .20 deaths in Hanoi 1971 2008 2000 . injured or missing . 2000 .15 dead or missing .13 dead and 81 people injured FLOODED ZONES HO CHI MINH CITY Low-lying areas like Districts 1.Oct.500 ships destroyed 2006 2007 CHANCHU .wordpress. injured or missing .266.Sep.303 houses damaged . 2012 .com.180 people dead or missing . Hoan Kiem Lake is another spot heavily affected and other black spots include Dien Bien 2011 .109. Sources: wikipedia. 2009 .The North .

Insider 50 | Word August 2015 | .

com | August 2015 Word | 51 . Meatworks wordvietnam.INSIDER NATIONAL Australia’s Cash Cow David Mann takes a look at how Vietnam’s appetite for beef has helped bring Aussie farmers back from the brink. Photos by Nick Ross Some of the beef on display at Saigon’s latest specialist butcher.

Poorly trained workers inflicted gashes across the beasts’ throats. But it was a monumental demographic shift that truly underscored the potential of this new frontier. who argued the month-long ban would incur millions in losses and damage vital trade links. struggling to kill the animals. in 2012 a crippling drought swept across central and northern Australia. Being ill-equipped to keep pace with surging meat consumption meant that Vietnam supplied only 3 percent of domestically-consumed beef. Local partners such as Hai Phong’s Animex were also sought out as a means to safeguard demand and implement better . said the impact of the ban on the once booming trade. “That’s a massive shift. Tu Tho. Within the week. Vietnamese farmers also faced a wall of obstacles that had seen the country’s domestic beef production wane in recent years. with annual per capita consumption rising from just 10kg in 1990 to almost 50kg in 2010. animal rights activists secretly filmed on mobile phones images of abject and horrifying cruelty — kicking.” she says. eye gouging and tail-breaking. Now. says the level of meat consumption has skyrocketed in Vietnam. A Star on the Horizon With an urgent need to diversify their export market. which had been the destination for 60 percent of Australian cattle exports. The nightly news soon flashed images of a new kind: farmers collecting dead cattle from pastures of cracked earth. resulting in an even more drastic surplus.” Beefing it Up With Australia’s own livestock partially exempt from beef tariffs. statistics from the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations show a seismic shift has occurred in Vietnam’s consumption of meat. Indeed. a farmer from Waterloo Station in the Northern Territory.. either in frozen boxes or as living. exacting another heavy toll on cattle Jakarta soon responded by imposing weight limitations on Australian cows above 350kg. poor access to water infrastructure and strict regulations on land management. hitting. Here. was devastating. Emily Brett. In graphic detail. the government had moved to suspend all live cattle exports to Indonesia. To make things worse. in a report by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC). And this came at a time when farmers were also grappling with rising inventory costs and increased competition from the US and India for Indonesia’s beef market. Australian farmers soon looked further afield to Vietnam. one of the nation’s most reputable public affairs television programmes spent an entire episode uncovering the horrific abuse being inflicted on Australian cattle in Indonesian abattoirs. a Ho Chi Minh City-based entrepreneur who has researched organic food markets across Vietnam.I n 2011. mooing cows. exporters went about nurturing a new live export market. Later. Vietnam’s cashed up middle-class were undergoing a massive shift towards meat-rich diets.. investing heavily in Vietnamese supply chains that would guarantee long-term growth and a stable and secure market for cattle farmers down under. The rest arrived from overseas.” 52 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. they discovered a hidden gold mine. a controversial decision that drew cheers from animal rights groups and the ire of cattle farmers across northern Australia. After gaining access to Indonesian slaughterhouses. “10 years ago families would sit down for a beef meal maybe once or twice a week. parents are teaching their kids to eat it every day. everyone was affected by it. “It just had a crippling effect on anyone involved in the industry and people involved in businesses that supply products to the industry. namely the rising cost of cattle feed. millions of Australians were shocked by images of animal cruelty. breathing.

Food stalls teem with beef-filled menus offering fresh bun bo and pho xao bo for as little as VND25.“It was a monumental demographic shift [in Vietnam] that truly underscored the potential of this new frontier. According to Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA). a secondary market. with an astronomical 12. “There was a need for a market. Vietnam has now become the second largest market for Australian live cattle exports. This is meant to minimise the time between when cows are slaughtered to when beef lands on supermarket shelves (something of importance. with up to a dozen investing millions of USD in new infrastructure to support the influx of Australian cattle. Vietnamese importers are still optimistic they’re in it for the long haul. wordvietnam. The flagship agricultural facility has also integrated a feedlot to sustain cattle for long periods after shipment.500 head of cattle in 2011 to 181. which received its first shipment of Australian cows to it’s VND110 billion facility in Dak Lak Province last year. Understandably (although maybe not so much in hindsight). very big and very healthy. And no. Red Star. wander around the streets of any city in Vietnam. right? Beef from Australia. Even the price differential is an issue: beef from Australian cattle slaughtered in Vietnam is often sold at the same price as the imported version. while everywhere from wet markets to supermarket chains. given farmers had originally viewed Vietnam as a backup market to Indonesia. Local Operations Some analysts have expressed concern that such explosive growth in demand for Aussie beef could overwhelm cattle growers down the track if new FTAs with China and South Korea see more cattle diverted to those markets. though. these numbers have come as a complete shock to the industry. “The workers here were very happy. The deputy director of the company’s live export project said the first shipment of Australian cows was an important milestone and showed just how important Australian imports have been for Vietnam.” he told the ABC last year.” What is Australian Beef? Seems simple. Red Star’s live export venture is also likely to become the template for other Vietnamese importers who want to build similar facilities to house Australian cattle and guarantee supply from Australian farmers in the long term.000 percent increase from 1. For now. “The local people were wondering where these big cattle came from.542 in 2014. [The country’s] cashed up middle-class were undergoing a massive shift towards meat-rich diets” standards around hygiene and animal welfare. CEO of the Northern Territory Livestock Exporters Association Ben Hindle described the numbers as “overwhelming”. The result has been a gargantuan boost to Australian beef exports. the selection of imported beef is expanding.” he told ABC Rural. but it was never known at that point how big it was going to get. we’re not kidding. If you want to truly make sure your beef was prepared and packaged in Australia before being exported to Vietnam. It was the first time they’d seen the cattle. while the likes of Meatworks and Tra Vy does fully accredited beef for the market in Ho Chi Minh | August 2015 Word | 53 . you’ll see just how big Vietnam’s appetite for beef is. Earlier this year. with all of its staff trained by Australian experts to handle cows in accordance with Australia’s Exporter Supply Chain Assurance System (ESCAS) — a fact readily advertised on the packaging of Red Star’s meat products. But in Vietnam the line between Australian beef (bo Uc) and beef from Australian cows killed in Vietnam (also called bo Uc) has become muddied. has already begun commercial production.000. then you need to go to a trusted supplier: Classic Fine Foods and Veggies operate throughout Vietnam. Indeed. given that Vietnam’s poor refrigeration infrastructure necessitates cows are slaughtered in-country and sold nearby).

Look at the veins bulging in their neck. You’re being a dick.Cover Story *They Just Aren’t Maybe you’ll find it puerile — a pack of neckless troglodytes grunting and sweating through trials of machismo. Pick out an athlete and examine them closely. if you’re open-minded or drunk enough to see it. and ask yourself: when was the last time you wanted anything that badly? Chop wood. everybody. 54 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. so we must be careful about what we pretend to be” — Kurt Vonnegut .com “We are what we pretend to be. Watch them huff staccato breaths. There’s something beautiful at work. See how dark and dilated their pupils are. But smother the impulse to deconstruct and criticize.

Barbaric as they may be. not starving yourself or sitting motionless in the woods. Their explanations are varied and occasionally hilarious. We like to live in our heads. A life without sports is no life at all. Martial artists slap people for fun. Our heads can be escaped in any number of ways. They connect us to our inner cavemen — behaviour that would get you arrested in the real world is perfectly acceptable if done in the act of sports. but only one way to finish a marathon: run the whole goddamn race. For some. There’s a reason that terms like ‘runner’s high’ have entered the vernacular. The novelist Harry Crews once said. And it’s attainable through playing games. the root cause might be a traumatic dodgeball incident from childhood. Entire industrial complexes are dedicated to making sure we stay there. If you’re a sports mystic. It’s OK to shoot rubber projectiles at a stranger’s head. Kicking strangers in the shins is fine between the lines of a football field. It’s the dragon chased by yogis and saints. but some of the most legal and easily accessible are sports. sports are refreshing in their simplicity. He supports the murder of trees . a transcendent state of being where basketball hoops seem as wide as oceans and goalkeepers are no more hindrance than the breeze. so he must’ve been smart. There are a thousand ways to finish an email. Just check out the competitive woodchoppers on ESPN3. neither is darts*. mastery without mastery. All of these people are dumb. But any activity rooted in physicality can be a sport. sports are just about as close to what one would call the truth as it is possible to get in this world. Niko Savvas wrote this article. Here. “If you tell me you can bench press 450. we’ll load up the bar and put you under it.S**RTS! T They’re metaphors for life and stuff here are few human endeavours as uncannily beautiful as sports. a feeling of perfect balance.” He was a novelist. Either you can do it or you can’t… Ultimately. Or maybe they just don’t like getting sweaty. it may be helpful to remember that ‘sports’ is an awfully broad term that covers everything from BMX racing to bandying a shuttlecock in the park. provided you are both standing on ice and holding sticks. perhaps you immediately thought of the ‘zone’. SO IT GOES… Yet many people still claim to dislike sports. Chess is not a sport. Others pin their disinterest on a (justifiable) loathing of sports’ hot-take culture. hell.

Smokin'.. have been knocking balls (and opponents) around bumpy surfaces for over two decades “‘Training never existed. [there wasn’t even] a football league and the trophy cabinet was bare’” . tactics were questionable. The Saigon Saints.. once known as the Saigon Smokers.

com | August 2015 Word | 57 . I know. It was a great weekend of friendly rivalry and teamwork.” However. He might even have the injuries to prove it. “It gives me a once-a-week familiar feeling among the hectic life here in Hanoi. avid tournament participants. He retired from football in 2005 and these days he works in market research in a brand-new office tower with centrally installed aircon and double-glazed windows. the league was dominated by one particular team. The league now has 10 teams competing on a weekly basis. It’s not. The Smokers were formed with one objective: to take a break from the only leisure activity available at the time.” He adds: “Training never existed. Although they know about it in Norway. USA yet. an English Club. So. Two decades later. one of the two founders. When it comes to expat pastimes. But. [there wasn’t even] a football league and the trophy cabinet was bare. some white guys. But when the Saints formed in 1995 they certainly had the best name — The Saigon Smokers. We try to organise fixtures with Ho Chi Minh City and other Southeast Asian teams one to three times a year.” Those days are far in the past. and the fact that netball is a pretty “niche sport internationally”. No insurance claims on that front.” Despite venue issues and the lack of a competitive league in Hanoi. It’s a great place to meet likeminded people with an appreciation for the greatest game on earth. It’s more and more popular among local Vietnamese teams. But like the other football teams around. The highlight was our second place finish in the Bayon Challenge in 1997. It proved a great source of fun and I still have lifelong friends from this time. You have to pass it or shoot. “Recently it has become a lot more competitive with several teams vying for the top spot. Fortunately for putting-a-ball-through-ahoop enthusiasts. Fortunately for the team’s original sponsor. then. skill development and friendship” and it also helps her keep her foot in the door with life back home. But that was years ago in Hanoi when there was a fortnightly match between the Australians and the Indians. I chose India. we often tend to gravitate towards people with a similar background whether that be language. with more being added over the years. playing netball in Hanoi does something more important for Louise than just continuing a 15-year association with a sport she loves. And those from the UK will tend to see netball as a women’s sport.” she says. “We got pretty thrashed [by the Saigon Shooters]. Cricket and rugby players — who also tend to come from Commonwealth nations — will sympathise. of course. The rest of the time we work on fitness. fun. except for a knock of 23 in my first innings.” he says. So what do you do? Nope. you can’t move from your spot. an Australian Club. The other founder. Nick: It’s like basketball. “The Ois have been going for six or seven years. “We’re actually the only netball club running in Hanoi (as opposed to in Ho Chi Minh City where there are about nine). a Pakistani Club. Mark Jones. is somewhere else.” he says. Photo Editor. which is one of the reasons I find cricket such an interesting sport.” Well. Kyle: What’s netball? Chief Editor. when we are overseas. Or can they? Words by Nick Ross T he Saigon Saints might not have been the first expat football team in Ho Chi Minh City.” says Ois organiser Louise CotrelGibbons. I tried it. the individual countries have a unique style of playing the game and different approaches to it. unfortunately).THE HOME TEAM Beer and sports. I wasn’t going to play with anyone from Down Under. We were. Saigon Saints club captain Ben Peadon is a sevenyear veteran of playing football in Vietnam. It’s a “constant source of exercise. Tomas Emmers. netball has obviously not made its way to Kyle’s hometown of San Diego.” He adds: “The camaraderie within the league is excellent. Here’s a shortened version of a recent conversation we had in our office: Photo Editor. Which all lends credence to the well-worn phrase. the Ois still managed to take nine players down to the inaugural Central Vietnam Games in Danang this year for two full matches (one mixed and one ladies).” While the national rivalries can be played out on the pitch (and even sometimes in the nets). Phil Worthington. the cricket leagues in Vietnam might be the answer. Mark assures us that there is a lot of interaction between members of the league. We’ve all made some wordvietnam. Creative Director. There are two Indian Clubs. Unfortunately for India. Instead. That 90 minutes [on the pitch] is a great escape from the daily grind of Vietnam… But the best thing about it is the social side. “However. it’s come to Hanoi. Drinking. “There wasn’t much to do except go to bars. Kyle: Really? Never heard of it. Our guess is he works in a different industry. “as we are all just individuals who love cricket. Mads: And when you’ve got the ball. In the bar. playing football was essential. “In the early days.” Which means.” SAFETY IN NUMBERS For those craving home and that camaraderie you can only experience with people from your own country. Australia had just sneaked past England in a tightly fought World Cup semi-final. skills and friendly games. but without the bouncing.” says the Vietnam Cricket Association’s. What that now defunct India versus Australia match-up did show was that when it comes to cricket. Likewise with cricket. however. interests or occupations. teams get organised more or less in terms of nationality. “Nationality really isn’t an issue. He has seen the league grow in “stature” and competitiveness. I did get invited round to the Indian ambassador’s residence for tea. they suffer from a ‘what is netball?’ crisis. tactics were questionable. smoking is now demonized (in the West) and the Saigon International Football League (SIFL) has been established almost 15 years.” says Phil. That is certainly the case with the Saigon Cricket League (Hanoi still hasn’t quite got a league. I turned out to be pretty useless. they just can’t be separated. In Vietnam (like in countries such as Australia) it’s played by both sexes. so we are limited in the numbers of competitive matches we can have. where Mads calls home. “I’m honestly not sure why the teams are largely based on nationality. I soon got relegated to the subs bench. is still here. a Sri Lankan club and only one outfit — United Cricket Club (UCC) — that is mixed nationality. JUMPING HOOPS While male-orientated sports — think chest bumps and secret handshakes — seem to have a secondary or even primary focus on something called booze.” He adds: “The league is [an excellent] way of bringing people together from different nationalities. Dunhill. “During my first couple of years. the netball playing outfit The Hanoi Ois don’t have the same problem of ending up from whence they came. Olympique (‘mafia from Marseilles’) and the Saigon Raiders (‘Danish-English mongrels’) can probably claim that accolade. “White guys can’t play cricket. ending up where it all started. “But we certainly didn’t make it easy for the Saigon team.

. too-close-to-call Rugby Union international screened live at The Republic in Hanoi 58 | Word August 2015 | .We Woz Robbed! They did it in injury time.. Australia have just undeservedly beaten South Africa in a recent.

you can take the sportsman out of the | August 2015 Word | 59 .PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA “When it comes to the expat love of sports. But you can never take the bar out of the sportsman” wordvietnam.

New Zealand. NBA. Ireland and England. interests or occupations’” fantastic friendships with members from all of the clubs. his right-arm exercise comes in more than just the form of lifting a glass of Tiger Draught to his lips about 100 times a night. “Those bars were Ice Blue Pub on Dong Khoi and the former Gecko bar of the late Michael Keung on Hai Ba Trung. MotoGP and MMA.” Unlike physically challenging sports — you can count tiddlywinks out of that one — darts is as much a social event as it is a sport. especially in Australia. eyes glued to obscenely sized TV screens. When it comes to the expat love of sports. correct that one. he says it’s one he “doesn’t really want to think about”. for example. “Americans for the NBA and NFL. A committee member of the Saigon International Darts League (SIDL). NFL. with most of the expats there just to be a part of the atmosphere the game creates. Vietnamese players started adding slowly. James Parry. They’re also for televised sports enthusiasts.” BACK AT THE BAR Some expats in this country… Sorry. NHL. The grand fromage of one of Hanoi’s most successful sports-cum-comfort food bars.” for him it’s all about watching the sports he loves. who has been with the league from nearly the beginning. as well as Mr. he’s pretty devoted to his second most favourite pastime. we often tend to gravitate towards people with a similar background whether that be language. The Hanoi Dragons have a diverse team with members from Australia. agrees. Alternatively. have some beers. when asked about the connection between sport and beer. Xu. Many expats in this country seem to love the bars. Kris Goetghebeur. first through girlfriends and wives of players and then some bar staff to make up the teams. his screens are home to any sport with an acronym — AFL. turn to our listing sections. 60 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. it’s good to know that the bars in this country aren’t just for darters.” However. “A good group of people watching sport and having a few drinks in a good environment is a match made in heaven. MMA — all the way through to rugby league and rugby union. EPL. Man behind the scenes at The Republic. for Kris and the members of the league’s 23 teams (there are now three divisions).” he says. One such watering hole lover is jovial Belgian. Different nationalities will come to The Republic to watch their countries play. we are just all darts lovers. the kind of people who prop up the bar. while he will keep an eye on the results of “a big football game involving the national team or sometimes check out the Saigon Heat scores. Tuesday nights are sacred.” Which brings us to a solid conclusion. There is a good respect between all of us. Dung Acceptable. “I love Vietnam. “It makes it more interesting to be able to discuss what’s happening with other people who understand and are interested in what is going on. “It all started in 1998 with just two bars playing against each other on Tuesdays.” he says.” he explains. America. bars and beer. for those of us not into sharp implements. Pakistan. There’s something comforting about it all. But you can never take the bar out of the sportsman. Always ready with a laugh. “But sometimes I need to forget about the chaos of the place and come back to what’s familiar.” he says. you can take the sportsman out of the bar. Cricket tends to be unique in the sense that we love our sport more than players of other sports and tend to have a more encyclopedic knowledge of the game. and while fortunately for the general public he doesn’t rate his skills with sharp implements. English teacher and cross-the-board sports lover.” explains Kris when asked about his arm-wrestling prowess. “Beers and darts are a good match for a fun called ACDC. A follower of everything from rugby and AFL all the way through to Formula 1. Sam Dawson. He’s a darts player. is currently the Vietnamese male national champion and Thuy is the female national champion for this year. “Most expats come for the different sports. The combination works perfectly. So sacred.” OUT OF SIGHT. the cook from Ice Blue Pub.” Saigon-based quantity surveyor.” he recalls. in fact. that he has a permanent Tuesday-night babysitter (his mother-in-law) booked from just after Tet all the way through to December. OUT OF MIND Fortunately. should know. Chris Vella. The rivalry is fun.“‘When we are overseas. who is one of the founders. To get involved in expat sports. But our biggest grouping of mixed expats is the rugby union. Sports. In particular it’s about watching these sports over a beer with friends — the social connection forms an integral part of being an expat overseas. just head to a bar with lots of large TV screens and beer on tap . hits a different note. The Rugby World Cup coming up in September will be huge. “[I guess] it’s a long tradition. “The relationship between expats and Vietnamese is very good. There is a now a 100 percent Vietnamese ladies team.” There are also a number of excellent Vietnamese darters including the ‘veteran’ Guppy Liem. most often with drinking and sports-watching companions in tow. “It is just a relaxing Tuesday evening out to throw some darts.

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA | August 2015 Word | 61 .

vn). In Hanoi head to California Fitness (cfyc. it’s goin’ on throughout the whole country. then get the moves in first. Although don’t expect classes. You’ve got to have a strong neck for that one and a head made of iron. But if you do like the B-Boy or B-Girl tip. if you’re there on the right night. To become part of a crew. not quite. Lenin offer up weekly classes as does Inspirato (inspirato.IN A SPIN or. edu. 62 | Word August 2015 | . DanceSpace in Saigon (

PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY ROCK. It ain’t all football and | August 2015 Word | 63 . you know. Here are a few of the other multitude of sporting activities you can do in this country. SPIN ‘N ROLL Sports in Vietnam. wordvietnam.

right? Apparently not. 64 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY OFF ROADIN’ IT Hanoi is a place of large lakes. There’s also a private track in Soc Son and motocross Facebook groups like SMC Hanoi MX talking shop on Facebook (they do actually do some riding). The perfect combination. small alleyways and oversized bikes. Some avid riders (and buffalo cart racers) even take to the beach on the Au Co end of the Red River for a touch of off-road . which is why a motocross racing track opened last year in An Duong.

What first entered this country thanks to some enterprising Russians living in Mui Ne has since spread to both Hanoi (galaxyhunter. vn) and Saigon ( | August 2015 Word | 65 .Where can boys and girls kill each other with guns without actually doing any killing? No. we’re not talking about nerf guns in the swimming pool. PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER PAINTBALL We’re talking about on the paintballing field of course. asia) with even a course conveniently out at Cu Chi Tunnels.

the Hanoibased rockclimbing outfit. Apparently they’re soon to be scaling the walls of Saigon Outcast. a pro shop and regular rockclimbing trips out to the likes of Hung Luu. here’s a place to get your teeth into all those carabiners. There’s an X-Rock climbing wall at Phan Dinh Phung Sports Centre in District 66 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. slings and harnesses you’ve been dreaming about. and local legends Push Climbing (pushclimbing. We promise you haven’t been left out. . With a bouldering gym close to West Lake.LIFE’S A ROCK Or so says VietClimb (vietclimb. don’t are scoping out a return.

com | August 2015 Word | 67 .PHOTO BY NGUYEN LE wordvietnam.

no matter who is controlling it. is to love whoever is around to be loved.GYM RELAPSE Devin Monaghan goes to the gym.” — Kurt Vonnegut . It’s a man thing “A purpose of human life.

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY | August 2015 Word | 69 .

Except for impressing girls and some guys. dedication and 300 grams of animal cruelty a day. this is like getting a PhD in to halve the weights on the bench press after the last lady used it. That’s rather rare with opiates. I must stand. Many of us are the same way with our bodies. People who come to me with unsolicited advice are usually right. it doesn’t matter. while I was paying for the privilege to lift stuff. I’m don’t even do this to double my negligible chances of getting laid.” I said. Gym experiences vary. but I just kept doing lat pull downs like an ass. Seriously. Hardly inspirational. if I have time. What are your goals for working out? Some of you may know people who just go to the gym to show off how fit they already are. People say. Think about that next time you’re on Saigon’s Bui Vien or in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and see a half-shirtless bro with bulging muscles: chances are. If you’re lucky you may see him on stage doing his damnedst to make you laugh. but it’s true.W eightlifting is a lot like writing: babies suck at it. Today’s story is chest day. I should have that tatted somewhere on my increasingly swoll body. I looked up proper technique on YouTube. I drank a lot later that night.000 per visit. as I’m getting so strong that I might get a bruise from patting myself on the back so hard. I teach. because then that’s how to suck at something forever. “But improper technique is how you get injured. which gives me the freedom to skip leg day guilt-free. Triceps. Important point: building your body does not make you a body builder. pecs have no functional value. exercise is a verb. either with fat. Ed Sheeran. I could’ve made their day way easier. Also. but at least I can tell people that I jog to my gym. Speaking of statistics. thus proving. or not s******* your pants: trying matters more than technique. muscle or ink. I’ve been clean from the exercise itch for two weeks. Hmm. many chickens have died for my biceps. NOT GOOD FOR CHICKENS (OR TUNA FISH) Working out is much like breathing. GO! I go to a small gym in my apartment complex. That’s because I don’t care. those can come in handy for throwing stiff-arms in traffic. and let him decide where he wanted to take our encounter from there. I start with whatever is easiest. and what comes easy in life is often the most useless. But I can feel better about using it in soup if I do leg day. then offered some pointers on proper human interaction. To me. which is borderline fraud for what they offer. pull that. Trying too hard is how you get injured. and then stop for whatever reason.” It costs VND70. the employees were shifting the gear around. “Is that for extra exercise?” “Sure. I’m simple: push this. yoga is for women and old people. which is to say: it is for people who are generally much wiser than me. but since he doesn’t try. Writers face a blank page. whereas my class really has to go awry for me to resort to my upper body strength for teaching. You might even see him in a classroom . Remember. Further. convenient. He’s also likes butter. and corrected the issue myself.” No. and the cost makes me angry enough that I can skip my preworkout supplement. They were struggling with some of the larger machines. The most pointless of all days. “So you don’t get hurt. Not caring is the first step towards getting good at something. and I was there to exercise anyway. Devin likes to do stand-up comedy. it isn’t. But I have to be careful. tasked with filling it with meaning. We can attach meaning to ourselves. curse leg day. I know some of you just spit out your morning protein shake reading that last sentence. My slovenly roommate could have excellent posture for planks. A buff ginger is less unattractive than a feeble ginger (although thanks to that British singer songwriter. an anecdote on how I only do this for vanity and butter related reasons: the last time I worked out. and I did nothing to help. Some of you still reading are noticing that there are some quirks in my workout philosophy. and just never start doing so again. and that first day back after a hiatus can be tough. Each has its own story. And always go with ‘easy’ when you’re relapsing. and to teach. GO GINGER MAN. or not responding at all. but it’s close. I’m not doing this for health. don’t bite those. there is no functional use to my muscles. but the easiest. Later. Also. Through my research for this article. Not the only step. Friends helped me get better technique. It also gives me the courage to not care that I have 70 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. but not much else. look up the statistics. us ginger boys are back on the map again). yes. then blew him a kiss. Every school day is leg day. not a noun. I discovered that going to the gym is in many ways different from a heroin addiction. because even it recognises that Feng Shui is not real). It’s terrible value for money. he got that way through hard work. I just want to enjoy my butter soup without guilt. That’s why when I relapse back into exercise. Keep that in mind with every word of mine you read. Some people go to the gym for a long time. My goals are simple: build muscle so I look less s*****. for better Feng Shui (my word processor marks this phrase as a typo. I gestured between him and I. but I’m not going to ruin my life by laying off butter. but when someone came up to me and said I wasn’t doing an esoteric exercise correctly. but the number of times I’ve ignored advice out of spite is closer to infinity than it is to zero. and told him he wasn’t doing this correctly. I know I’m not doing all the exercises right. but saying 2+2=5 is more accurate than responding to the question with a series of smells. I tried not to dwell on how here were these smaller Vietnamese dudes getting paid to lift stuff. | August 2015 Word | 71 .

it’s about excelling. achieving goals and looking after yourself. Most of . women carrying out market conversations on treadmills. It’s about hard work. many things spring to mind: fat men pointlessly trying to reduce the flab. people blow-drying their armpits in the changing rooms. Muscly. 72 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. for these people gym work is not just about being body beautiful or having something to boast about to their friends. being in good shape has little to do with creating a fashion statement (or blow-drying your armpits).W hen you think of this country’s gyms. drive and precision. diet. It’s about lifestyle. sweaty and intense. What we often forget is the small segment of gym goers — and we’re not just talking about the trainers — who are true athletes. and way too much mint oil in the sauna. a choice to follow a certain path. Striking a subtle balance between body and mind.

com | August 2015 Word | 73 . lift and kick their way to glory Le Hoang Age: 30 Height: 1m68 Weight: 90kg wordvietnam.BODIES IN MOTION Kyle Phanroy heads to the gym to track four athletes as they box.

Tran Trung Thinh Age: 17 Height: 1m71 Weight: 76kg Camilla Blom Age: 24 Height: 1m65 Weight: 52kg 74 | Word August 2015 | .

com | August 2015 Word | 75 .wordvietnam.

Mai Van Khoa Age: 30 Height: 1m78 Weight: 77kg 76 | Word August 2015 | .

x Fitn us v e to tak n) for ss C l et he allow ub se ph ing oto s | August 2015 Word | 77 .Sp eci al (fo thank xfit nes s to F o scl ub.


But still. on occasion.” — Kurt Vonnegut THAT’S NOT A REAL S**RT Get off Niko Savvas’ lawn. The hierarchy was helpful in many ways. seemingly unrelated disciplines that nevertheless had marvelous penchants for attracting nutjobs. you were weird. There was also a shadowy underworld of Un-Sports (yup. basketball. but acceptably so. more capitals) like skateboarding and martial arts. American football and hockey*. wordvietnam. are not without their | August 2015 Word | 79 . there were a smattering of SemiRespectable Sports (note the continued usage of capitals) like tennis. thank you very much W *Are different sports popular where you grew up? That’s fascinating. Any red-blooded youth of a certain age was expected to enjoy at least one. soccer and golf. hen your correspondent was a boy.“The insane. Well. If you enjoyed one of these. He likes his grass just as it is. In addition. there were four Respectable Sports (note the capital ‘R’ and capital ‘S’): baseball. not so much as ‘fascinating’ as ‘totally bloody irrelevant’.

it hasn’t been immune to similarly perfidious fads. A GROWING CONCERN The past decade has seen a worrisome diversification of the sporting universe. and are grown-up kickball players still nerds? Yes. Yet these wannabe witches and warlocks are surprisingly hard to distinguish from normal people. the problem can be traced to foreign influences. she’s doing cartwheels over parked taxis. proudly advertising their allegiance through officially licensed merchandise. guys? ***Your correspondent makes no apologies for poisoning that cat. First played in Seattle in the early 2000s. YELLING ‘MEH’ In this paradoxical age of ever-increasing individuality and concatenation. They wore their zealotry on their backs. because dunking a ball through a 10-foot hoop is dope as f***. wizards and free runners — send your complaints to bahaha@blowme. They are the new urban guerrillas. and nobody’s the wiser. your correspondent can scarcely leave the house without some reckless hoodlum leapfrogging over his back at full tilt. blurring the lines between athlete and civilian. It was helpful to have such an easy way to pick out idiots. They trade their capes for Crocs and their wands for WhatsApp. but madness is the new normal. it takes everything awesome about polo — horses. because fondling the carcass of a headless goat is gross. Even in Vietnam. They wear no uniforms or insignia. computer games etc. from high school to professional. spinning around streetlights. could tell you quite a lot. The league has 47. Consider the case of Hardcourt Bike Polo. You can’t spell ‘fade’ without ‘fad’. As always. cable TV. Today it has infected more than 300 cities in 30 countries. hordes of grown-ass adults gather to run around with broomsticks between their legs. the idiots are better camouflaged. and to give people with nice asses an excuse to wear spandex. but it does little to stop the spread of this athletic epidemic. British accents. These days. BROOMSTICKS AND BACKFLIPS ** How’s the 4G coming along. Trends pass with the seasons. this pseudo-sport quickly swept the globe. STANDING ATHWART HISTORY. Basketball will always be cool. playing an imaginary game for imaginary wizard-spawn in an imaginary boarding school. It’s madness. Pointing fingers is fun and lucrative.000 likes on Facebook. Parkouristas aren’t the only menace facing the traditional sportosphere. Your spouse could be a Quidditch player and you’d never even know. While Vietnam is no early adopter of global trends**. American football fans were maniacally devoted to their teams. And we’re not talking about rugby.The sports a person enjoyed. . Blame can be placed at the feet of the usual suspects: the internet. One minute you’re waiting for the bus beside a mild-mannered student — the next. though. aroused by violent collisions between armoured men in the world’s least-subtle metaphor for tactical ground war. While Vietnamese sportsfolk once were content to slap their shuttlecocks around the alley. Ralph Lauren — and replaces it with a plebe-friendly mimesis as tacky as it is inauthentic. though your correspondent knows it by its true name: anarchy. A contemporary bastardisation of traditional culture. can our favourite sports still say anything about who we are? Do the old taxonomies even apply? Is an American football fan still a brute. They carry no equipment that might betray their intentions. Every week. and the dark days of competitive bog snorkeling will be forgotten. buzkashi will never be cool. 80 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. And they’re into way weirder stuff than American football. but some truths are eternal. Someday we will return to our collective senses. though. and doesn’t that say it all? Nerds. you can’t swing a dead cat*** without its mangy tail brushing against a group of weirdos united under the pretense of sport. or didn’t enjoy. and running up walls for no goddamn These days. once they leave the pitch. A person who enjoyed American football was most likely a sociopath. then clambering up a drainage pipe to prance from roof to roof. And its adherents are growing in power and influence. threatening to consume the wide world of sports. Perhaps the best example of this is Saigon’s burgeoning Quidditch scene. The kids call it ‘parkour’. today they dabble in darker indulgences from abroad. We should remember the true purpose of sports — to keep nerds in their place. | August 2015 Word | 81 .

divine”. Photos by Francis Xavier The Game They Play in Heaven When the 18th century poet Alexander Pope wrote those famous words. emails were sent. all led us to printing the wrong photo. so we do ‘err’. One man’s pleasure is another man’s pain. he might not have been so quick to forgive. playing village Quoits might not have been his strong suit. “To err is human. and afterwards filed this report from a nearby safety bunker. Internally there were a few heads in hands and a serious amount of buck-passing. Jon Aspin was in the thick of the action for Word.Insider INSIDER HCMC The Gecko’s Revenge After printing the wrong picture two issues ago. we printed a photo of the Hanoi Dragons instead. and the course of literary history would be different. We find stairs difficult. Perhaps if he had. fact-checked**** and proofed to within an inch of their lives. . an absent editor and a rookie mistake. and an investigation***** was launched. Word Magazine in an all-out paintball war. Alexander Pope was a hunchback with chronic tuberculosis. Most things are researched. and in our June issue this year. The wrong photo was in a Harry Hodge (conspicuously absent on this day) piece * Medieval ‘hooky’ ** Made up newspaper title but likely a ‘hoighty toighty’ gossip rag somewhere in London 82 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. (Looking for Love. this was touted as the grudge match of the summer — at least by us anyway. we hold ourselves to a high level of journalistic integrity***. Go about the Saigon Geckos Rugby Club — who said we wouldn’t name names? Tasked with capturing the Geckos’ moment of Indochine Cup glory back in May. to forgive. June 2015) we did exactly that. as reporters for Word. when a combination of dengue fever. we’re pretty sure he’d never had an incorrect photo of his village Quoits* team published in the 1712 Windsor Times**. but sometimes we are also like hunchbacks with brittle bones. Saigon Rugby Club vs. apologies were printed. That and single-scull rowing — everything else is fine. We are irrefutably human. Passing the Buck In search of some ‘divine forgiveness’ for our scandalous oversight. and our friends in the capital loved it. The point is. On the other hand.

*** This story is brought to you by Mr. HCMC. Hi Mum! **** We pay hungry backpackers VND1.000 per Google search term wordvietnam. Singh’s Curry House & Car Wash in District | August 2015 Word | 83 .

and our friends in the capital loved it” but let’s face it. a ploy to numb the pain we were about to inflict. “I was in hospital at the time. a whole lot of giggles too. “Your whole team.” he kept saying. Immediately making up for his diminutive stature with such a pugnacious remark. I’d never felt prouder of my colleague. had a few choice comments of his own. with what can only be described as Gallic understatement. He then offered his own paltry excuse for the photo mix-up. when it did. or if it would even happen. before the idea of a grudge-match was born. “Head then balls. Not exactly the Churchill-esque battle cry I was looking for. Kyle Phanroy to retort about our opposition. and not just about the price of paintballs. many of whom were already imbibing large quantities of ‘soda’. especially when I asked him what he saw as our paintball weakness. Nick looked worried. Unfortunately not many were printable.” he replied. He then pointed out the difference between ***** We all sat around and blamed Harry. but among the rest was a strategy statement that was pretty succinct. I asked them about their strategy. This caused our within-earshot and previously dengue fever-struck photo editor. “They look like a bunch of p*******!”. 84 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. would react with something like what Nick said next: “I think we might get whipped”. Eyeing up the 15-strong squad of rugby players who had descended on the event. team line-ups and their opinion of the standard of journalism here. One man’s pleasure is another man’s pain. Antoine. Fellow Wordies Vu Ha Kim Vy and Rachel .com a gecko and a dragon graphically. Joe ‘Poetry in Motion’ Eastwood.“Tasked with capturing the Geckos’ moment of Indochine Cup glory back in May. drawing a picture in the air like a nursery school teacher — talk about things that would have been useful yesterday. He quickly warmed to his task. What other race of people. I caught up with several of the combatants over ‘prewar’ refreshments. so the Word team took confidence from the Geckos early bravado — kind of. Yes. paintball nirvana awaits you. Go figure. though. Nick Ross. (sporting a very ‘ontrend’ black eye and pirate beard) was at first diplomatic about our goof. drawing an imaginary line between his head and… you get it. who when faced with a sporting challenge so steep and daunting. Unsure of exactly what it would prove. for what they described as ‘battlefield courage’. Looking for some inspiration before war. I really didn’t give a f***!” Well said Kyle. we printed a photo of the Hanoi Dragons instead. Mr. I interviewed my own editor. Word would throw out the olive branch for a chance at what Pope and his cronies would probably call poetic justice — we would play a paintball match at Saigon Paintball in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2. His next words were so English I laughed. Lineout Gecko stalwart and this month’s front cover star Antoine Goupille. Fearless Minister of Fun and Happiness at the Geckos. with four bags of saline solution getting pumped into my IV due to the dehydration — because that’s how I like to party man — so yeah. This drew laughs from surrounding teammates. Clearly this was subterfuge.

at least not too badly. and cherry-picking softer opponents ******. Word-Gecko relations have never been stronger than ******Anyone in a yellow uniform. In the first game Word got pinned down and hammered.Cabakoff were equally realistic — if a little confused. too — check them out at paintball. As ‘captain’ of my team I was supposed to be showing leadership and shouting commands. so all I know is that a lot of paintballs got exploded. Fifth Tackle In the end. and 11-year-old Caitlin who bravely took on the role of Word general in our last match-up. and challenge them to a naked sauna-off in Stockholm’s most expensive | August 2015 Word | 85 . wordvietnam. Stay tuned next month. who earned a purple heart for taking one in the face during combat. Let’s just settle on scared. it was clear that it had been a victory for sport — I had to get one cliché in here. and there was respect gained in fighting hard against a far superior opponent. scared. and I think we decided on a two games to one result for the Geckos. Far be it from me to cry foul. while in the next two we fared much better. I focused on not getting hurt. More ‘soda’ got drunk. In between games and at the end of the day’s entertainment. An Phu. least of all this reporter. Neither could work out if they were excited. Phil ‘Body and Temple’ Kelly was controversially accused by his own team mates of hiding out. but as the ‘bullets’ rained in on me. There were a lot of emotions flying during the pre-game banter. and no one really knows what happened. HCMC. Everyone who came had a great time. Meanwhile. but that was much of a muchness. Notable performers were Vy. They have a website. and while forgiveness was never really the issue. Paintball Saigon is at 14-18 Street 11. it was pure chaos. but there was definitely some friendly fire in there too. intimidated or happy. including a bunch all over me. as well as a lot of refreshments. when we print the wrong photo of the entire Swedish royal family. all of that went out of the window.

Insider .

” He has carried this concept through to these photos. Instead they were taken through a mirror. “When you look at yourself in a mirror. through the use of reflection and cracked glass.PHOTO ESSAY NATIONAL The Ballerina In the first of our monthly photo essays. in this collection by photographer Kyanh Tran. it’s like you’re seeing your soul. To see more of Kyanh’s work go to facebook. graduating from dance school in 2008. Although she dances a range of styles. Kyanh’s idea for the photo shoot was simple. None of the images were shot directly or straight on.” he says. reflections and glass. com/sandalephoto . and all your feelings. “I like mirrors. passionate and elegant. she is portrayed as a ballet dancer: graceful. we track the work of photographer Kyanh Tran D o Hai Anh started dance lessons when she was 12 years old.

com .88 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.

com | August 2015 Word | 89 .wordvietnam.

com .90 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. | August 2015 Word | 91 .

Photos by Julie Vola P izza is the most important food group.000) We start off with two refreshing juices. The pizza’s backbone. After that. Stella knows what he’s doing when it comes to pizza. but thin enough to ensure a bit of crispiness. a slice dotted with spicy salami and sprinkled with parsley. Papa Roma. hangovers. Rising up from the crust. lined with a row of fresh basil leaves — music to my mouth. He continues.000 to VND45. Pizza can cure bad days. boasting a mountain of smoked ham and sautéed mushrooms. the prices remain reasonable. the crust is the foundation that carries each slice to the finish line.Food and Drink TOP EATS HANOI Papa Roma With our mystery diner taking a well-needed summer hiatus. and Hanoi now has a pizza-by-the-slice joint to conveniently feed our pizza needs. heartaches. a virgin passion fruit mojito and the vibrant red nectar of a man tuyet. though the man tuyet’s tart yet smooth richness is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted — I love the thick froth that floats on the top. starting with the classic margarita. I then grandly conclude with the prosciutto e funghi. Opened in May by Gianfranco Stella. on to the diavola. we find ourselves at the tomato sauce . Papa Roma fills a singlesliced pizza with The Drinks (VND35. and calcium deficiencies. 92 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.000) Size: 10cm x 20cm I then work my way through the full parade of pizza options. despite the fact that Stella imports the tomatoes and cheese from his native Italy. a fruit similar to a plum. this month we send Noey Neumark to Hanoi’s latest purveyor of the mighty pizza. Papa Roma’s crust is thick enough to add a chewy texture to each bite. Yet. Because pizza is so basic — “a simple dish for simple people. Both are perfect.” as Stella explains — a good slice of pizza must nail each ingredient to a T. The Slices (VND40. and he knows that the secret to good Italian food lies in quality ingredients.000 to VND60.

Not Pizza If you’re not a pizza person (do you even exist?). and spills over the edges just enough to crisp up in crunchy. It has just the right amount of colour and kitsch. This August they are opening a Saigon outlet in Phu My Hung at SD4-1 My Khang. My meal. Last but not least are the toppings.and cheese. or if you’re just not in the mood. just off Food Street. Q7 wordvietnam. However. and I’d bet that any of the other options would hit out of the park. You can’t go wrong with any of the three we tried. however. Papa Roma is at 4B Ngo Cam Chi. The tuna salad ( | August 2015 Word | 93 .000). on the go. though Stella scowls when I make that request (“On seafood!? Ay no!”). Hanoi. meaning this is the kind of place perfect for whiling away some time. all lightly tossed in tomato sauce. Says Stella. Hoan Kiem. and Papa Roma’s menu suits a range of pizza desires. Papa Roma’s slices are modeled after traditional Roman ‘pizza by the cut’.000) isn’t something to write home about. I drool — probably noticeably — when Stella speaks about the paccino piccante. topped with cherry tomatoes in a spicy balsamic sauce. whether you sit at the wooden tables pushed to the side of Food Street or take your meal upstairs to the dining room. The Italian mozzarella forms a delicate blanket over the sweet sauce. Nguyen Luong Bang. salty bites that punctuate the pizza’s edge. too. which is meant to be eaten quickly. It’s that kind of simple Italian dish that makes you want to blow a kiss at someone. concludes with al dente spaghetti and clams (VND85. and it tastes even better when sprinkled with parmesan. You can also order the focaccia sandwiched around meats and cheeses. a person’s topping preference depends on their mood. but the focaccia and homemade vinaigrette certainly are. there are other viable options on the menu. the space is bright and inviting.

The dish is popular in summer and the name means Southern-style beef noodles. There’s a rumour that the dish was brought back to the capital by troops who returned from Saigon after 1975. it was not until I went to Saigon and had a chance to eat bun thit bo xao 94 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. A shop called Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu. Local people eat bun bo nam bo for any meal. Phuong. One example is bun bo nam bo. Says the owner. as well as the types of vegetables included. Bun bo nam bo in Hanoi is similar to bun thit bo xao in the South. spring rolls and grilled fish. I feel likewise. celebrity chef Luke Nguyen said that the most clichéd view of people around the world about Vietnamese food is that Vietnam only has a few dishes. this was one of the very first eateries to sell bun bo nam bo in Hanoi. But there are many kinds of food in the capital. Hoan Kiem) is said to offer the best version of bun bo nam bo in Hanoi. right? Words by Huyen Tran. Many foreign travellers associate Hanoi with pho. Yet. Rumour and Legend Nobody really knows when bun bo nam bo first appeared in Hanoi or how bun thit bo xao ‘migrated’ to the capital city. According to legend. especially about Hanoi’s cuisine. who is now in her 60s: “It was around the early 1980s and even before that when I first heard about the dish. the two dishes differ in the way the meat and sauce are . Photos by Julie Vola I n a recent newspaper interview. Both versions are enjoyed without a broth but mixed with fresh vegetables and sauces instead.Food and Drink STREET SNACKER HANOI Bun Bo Nam Bo A beef noodle dish that comes from the south but is popular in Hanoi? You’re joking. Yet. mixed dry noodles with stir-fried beef. which is fresh bun noodles cooked up with stir-fried beef (these days the southern variation substitutes the beef with pork and is known simply as bun thit xao).

she later decided to cater to Hanoian taste buds by adding Vietnamese ham and fermented pork rolls to the menu as condiments. This also helps differentiate each bun bo nam bo restaurant in Hanoi. Personally. a zesty stir-fry of marinated beef hot from the wok is put on top of the dry noodles. Complex Fare While the preparation seems to be simple. lemon and chilli. which is the same across the two regions. “Even though the sauce simply consists of fish sauce. Says Phuong. Dressed with sauce and topped with roasted peanuts and fried shallots.that I became so engrossed in it that I tried to make it and sell it in Hanoi. the harder it is to get right”. sugar.” says Phuong. I would fail. the flavours of bun bo nam bo are clean. the way the beef is sliced. her offering is known for its soft and perfectly seasoned | August 2015 Word | 95 .000 wordvietnam. the recipe itself calls for a variety of ingredients and according to Hanoians “the simpler the dish. “Also. From the first day.” Bun Bo Nam Bo is located at 67 Hang Dieu. The layer beneath includes different types of vegetables. I opened this shop on Hang Dieu in 1987.” Thanks to her tireless market research. Hoan Kiem. or the variation in the way each restaurant combines the elements. then marinated and stir-fried is totally different from how it is done in the South. perfect for sweaty weather. I think the dishes are completely different. A bowl costs VND60. “If you notice. I knew that if I copied the same recipe of bun thit xao in Saigon. the sauce has the same spirit at that used in bun cha.” While the price is a bit more expensive than elsewhere. Let’s also not forget to mention the regional modification. fresh and restorative. the difference between the two bun bo dishes is very obvious. When a diner orders.

Tucked down an alley behind the Arsenal soccer pitch on Thao Dien’s ‘in between’ road. it was difficult not this area. Rather. comfort food menu on a solid footing. This District 2 villa converted into a restaurant is easy on the eye. The only thing. Considering that the owners and investors were Danish. Now for the Food Comfortably settled in the garden area with my dining partner. the scallops with garlic and chilli butter (VND150. although I did have some slight quibbles. I found myself in a restaurant and chill-out venue that seemed to have its mid-range. would the hideaway location quite literally conceal this eatery.Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER HCMC MAD House Hideaway restaurants are either the business or a terrible failure. suddenly it made sense.000) were melt-inyour-mouth sublime. From the tiny salt and pepper jars to the chicken coop-like lampshades and mozzy repellent placed on the outdoor tables at night. that thoroughfare connecting the main drag with Riverside Apartments and ISHCMC on the other side. indoor space). we went for two starters. It’s great to see. Served on a wooden chopping board over mounds of salt. Mad.” I had always wondered how MAD House had got its name. that’s why” moments. It was one of those. I’d liked the place — with its leafy garden atmosphere and dark wood. Both seafood. Photos by Kyle Phanroy I n an editorial meeting. barmy. MAD House is a restaurant created and run with a lot of love. Where was the method to the madness (pun intended)? Second was the location. Our undercover reviewer checked out District 2’s MAD House to see which way the wind would blow. You see. rash. I’d first headed down to MAD House just after it opened. rustic-styled furnishings. I also discovered a place that demonstrated an almost obsessive eye for detail. reckless. First was the name. Fan-cooled and with a focus on al fresco dining (there’s also an aircon. it seemed to fit the pseudo Mediterranean setting so popular in 96 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. bar and café from view? My latest visit would provide evidence that name and location were not proving a bane. insane. each of the six crustaceans hitting the buttery spot. “aah. our Norwegian creative director told us: “Mad means food in Danish. I couldn’t . And both excellent. But I’d wondered.

From the tender consistency of the octopus to the crunch of the arugula. a dish with a lovely. melt in your mouth.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9. goats cheese. soft yet crunchy. a café and a bar.THE VERDICT 14 FOOD 14 SERVICE 13 DÉCOR taste the chilli. Yet this dish was so good that the chilli seemed like an unnecessary addition. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12. MAD House is a member of the growing cohort that sits a few levels madsaigon Food. Washed down with a glass of red wine — both the wine list and selection of international imported beers were commendable — I left this dining establishment feeling more than satisfied. Cooked to a perfect medium rare and smothered in a subtle pepper sauce — yes.2 million for the lot including a digestif. The bill wasn’t over the top. I have a thing about Galician-style octopus.000). MAD House is at 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di. egg yolk. so good were the starters. the mix and taste was just about spot on. Q2. onion. capers. pepper that was actually subtle — this offering just goes to show how you don’t have to have the ‘best’ cuts of beef to make a good steak. with a powerful yet not overwhelming aftertaste of mustard. Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. but I loved every mouthful — proof that you don’t need to be a Gallic-influenced restaurant to serve up your beef raw. I was full halfway through. The baby octopus. This beef was tender. shallot. HCMC or at facebook.000) came with a moreish tomato relish and was a dish that married different types of textures with finesse. And as for the fries… So nice to go somewhere that actually gets them right.5 good to very good 5 — 7. My beef tartar with cornichon. my partner opting for the Australian flank steak cooked with wild pepper. either: VND1. arugula and potato salad (VND175. The mains were beef. There is a plethora of mediocre restaurants in this town. Tripling up as a restaurant. with the softness of the potatoes and goats cheese in between. beef and more beef. Maybe it was my expectations that were wrong: we ate every last morsel. garlic and thyme (VND265.5 fair to good 0 — 4. all served up with an extra portion of thick-cut fries. mustard.000) was tart but sweet. My only quibble: the strength of the goat’s cheese dwarfed the subtlety of the octopus.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals . salty pang. herb and French fries (VND275.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy N o luxurious furniture. And then the delivery of that steaming bowl of Chinese noodle soup with pork. spoons tapping on a piece of bamboo. Just the simple. That is hu tieu go. hu tieu. everyday feature of Saigon. slurping away at the steamy noodles while saving the best slices of meat until last. Yet the origin of hu tieu go (go = tapping) remains a mystery. Yet go to Quang Ngai and hu tieu is just not on the menu. This form of hu tieu is called hu tieu nam vang. the taste. no-frills hu tieu go stand on the corner of the street. Just the tac tac sound of kids roaming the streets. searching for customers.Food and Drink STREET SNACKER HCMC The Disappearance of the Hu Tieu Stand Vi Pham goes in search of one of Saigon’s most iconic street dishes. Another oddity is that most stand owners come from Quang Ngai in Central Vietnam. right to your door. One story is that it came to Saigon with the Khmer Chinese when they fled Cambodia in the late 1970s. No soft music or subtle lighting. No nothing. What I do remember was that if banh mi thit ruled Saigon street food during the day. A typical stand would carry a simple coal stove. the hu tieu nam vang in Phnom Penh tastes completely different to its version in stand-to-door delivery. once an iconic. the 98 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. I miss those nights staying up late with my mum. then at night it was the hu tieu stands. But when was the last time you spotted a hu tieu stand around town? And when was the last time you heard that tapping sound? From Banh Mi to Hu Tieu Hu tieu stands featured heavily in my childhood: the sound. a big . But no-one’s quite sure.

but when I asked around to find the oldest and the largest group of hu tieu stand owners on Ba Thang Hai in District 10. dried noodles. the kind of stories shared between people in the quiet and peaceful atmosphere of late night Saigon. “It is not expensive to cook broth from vegetables and pork ribs. Got it!” The last time I feasted at this spot was months ago. Nostalgia With my memories firmly in place.” On my journey around the city I ignored Districts 1 and 3 — where the stands are all but non-existent — and instead went to the city’s more suburban areas like Districts 2. but extra quail eggs. when unknown online sources accused stand owners of cooking the broth from rats and worms. I hit gold in a number of places. rich nutrition value and tempting taste.000 to VND30. Do I look like somebody who traps rats and digs up worms?” We both burst out laughing. I was also determined to find out more about a recent bout of bad press that may have accelerated the disappearance of this dish. “Pig leg. I left empty-handed — they had moved on several months ago.pot of boiling broth. The first time the media noted the demise of hu tieu go was in 2013. but this only made it worse. There are other signature street dishes that remind me of Old Saigon. This lady is one of only a few people left in Saigon who has a hopeful vision for the future of the humble hu tieu stand. My place is still as crowded as before. “Can I have hu tieu dac biet?” I asked. And she even remembered my order. the rumours remained. “But please don’t put pi…” She cut my line as I was ordering.000 and VND20. “Did you lose many customers?” “Lose customers?” she replied. slices of meat and other additional ingredients. I decided to search out what hu tieu stands remain in this city. 11 and Tan Phu. It had been so long that I couldn’t even remember the taste. Her smile warmed up the atmosphere of my mainly fruitless evening. you want no pig leg. why do we have to waste time trapping the rats? It does not make sense at | August 2015 Word | 99 . So I went over to District 2. and even though the authorities came out in public to defend the stand owners. check out these streets: N GUYEN T UYEN . As one stand owner on Le Hong Phong told me.000 a bowl wordvietnam.000 to VND30. but hu tieu go was always at the top of the list with its reasonable price. With this dish also come stories.000 a bowl V INH V IEN . Hu Tieu on the Street To dine like a king on the Saigon sidewalk. The reports caused outrage. Yet the stand owner remembered me.000 a bowl L E H ONG P HONG . “No. finishing up their business with the hu tieu stands after years of earning a livelihood on the streets. it didn’t cause me any trouble. Business was already suffering a downturn. Q10 VND15. So. No gio heo. The Last Stand? “How badly did the rat scandal injure your business?” I asked one stand owner on Nguyen Tuyen. This business has been around for 28 years and everyone knows the quality of my food. Q2 VND15. Q11 VND16.

Travel MLJET IN CROATIA // YACHT RENT 100 | Word August 2015 | .

TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL Croatia David Mann travelled to Croatia to eat | August 2015 Word | 101 . climb walls and get a tan — not necessarily in that order wordvietnam.

I was about to bail on the idea altogether when I stumbled on a little piece of paradise. and thanks to a generous exchange rate. Italy.246 islands dotting their way up the Dalmatian Coast. That means that pizza. The country boasts 1. Here’s where I went. cooler) skies in September while still being able to swim. I had a bit of time to kill. pasta and antipasto are as ubiquitous as Coca-Cola. I was also going to be travelling in September. I was eating. Croatia benefits from a lengthy travel season that goes from late May to early October. only 67 of which are inhabited. With my savings burning a hole in my pocket and a list of places to visit. I stepped off my Croatian Airlines flight and into the Adriatic sunshine. where do you go in Europe when you want to eat really delicious food without having to stay in a dodgy backpacker place to balance the budget? I was left pondering those exact questions one afternoon last year. Platters of antipasto and grilled seafood were followed by countless scoops of creamy gelato” DUBROVNIK FROM THE CLIFFS ABOVE // VICTOR GONZALEZ 102 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. It is also blessed with an incredible landscape that puts both the sea and mountains within reach.W here do you go if you want to experience Europe in the summer but don’t have piles of cash to burn? Similarly. and allows active travellers to enjoy sunny (albeit. the month when most of the sunny Mediterranean destinations were winding . has heavily influenced Croatian cuisine.000 a meal. “When I wasn’t walking. will set you back on average around VND200. when an email alert from Vietnam Airlines hipped me to a ridiculously cheap return flight to Paris. But if it’s food that you’re after. otherwise known as Croatia. making it ideal for sailing. cycle and rock-climb up and down its amazing coastline. but not enough money to spend the whole time in Paris. Months later. I began my Croatian adventure. then you’ll be pleased to know that its northern neighbour.

led by Slobodan Milosevic. Hot tip: it’s accessible only through a tiny hole in the city’s outer wall. and life there is laid-back and poetically simple. Platters of antipasto and grilled seafood were followed by countless scoops of creamy gelato (VND30.BRAC OLD TOWN // CYRIL DOUSSIN Brač Dubrovnik I spent four days exploring Dubrovnik and could have easily spent a week here. it boasts a population of only 12. including Mljet.000 people. launched a brutal attack on the city. For us. it’s also an incredibly fun city to be in. The famous walled city boasts a fascinating history.000/scoop). wordvietnam. Although Brač is the largest island in the Dalmatian territory. In one word: | August 2015 Word | 103 . I also paid frequent trips to Buza. when Yugoslavian forces. Korcula and the Makarska Riviera. dominated by family-run farms and marinas. When I wasn’t walking. Farming and fishing are the primary industries. ranging from the Ottoman occupation right up to the gruesome siege of 1991. that meant visiting organic farms that grew their own olives. a fun cliff bar located outside the city wall and overlooking the Adriatic. I was eating. Brač was my first stop on a week-long sailing and cycling trip with Sail Croatia (prices start at VND10.5 million) that did a loop of Croatia’s most visited islands. cured their own Dalmatian ham and conjured up mouthwatering feasts of slow-cooked meat and organically grown vegetables. But history aside.

this is where I would come. and it’s amazing. “Hvar is Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. it is said to experience only three days of bad weather each year. If ever I were to sell my belongings and go on sabbatical. Considered one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. and it’s amazing. this is where I would come” THE MARINA IN HVAR // ALCHEN_X 104 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.Hvar THE CITY OF HVAR // KAMILSOLINA Hvar is Croatia’s answer to .000) and watch the bronzed and the beautiful walk by. If ever I were to sell my belongings and go on sabbatical. It is also blessed with pristine pebble-stone beaches. sleepy Italian monasteries and a throbbing nightlife that makes it popular with young travellers. The waterfront promenade makes for an ideal spot to enjoy a reasonably-priced Aperol spritzer (around VND110.

5 million. was climbing the 1. ranging from its party-seeking Navigator cruise to the adrenalin-pumping sail-cycle tours. poking up to the sky from the town below. wordvietnam. Those short on time can island-hop using the country’s reliable ferry service.KOTOR IN MONTENEGRO // ARNO HOYER Montenegro Day trips to Montenegro run daily from Dubrovnik. Prices can be as low as VND15 million return.400m altitude fortress at the top of the city. and can be done cheaply by private car for around VND1 million. MONTENEGRO // KEVIN BOTTO Getting There (and Around) Air France and Vietnam Airlines travel direct to Paris from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.360 stairs to the 1. Here. Buses travel regularly between the major cities of Zagreb. — operates weekly sailing trips from the end of April to mid-October. you’ll soon arrive at the old town of Kotor. we had incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the magnificent stone buildings. a legendary walled city hidden behind the towering fjords of the Gulf of Kotor. The highlight. After a short stop at the border crossing. HOUSES IN KOTOR. Regular connecting flights to Dubrovnik or Split are available on British Airways and Croatian Airlines from around VND4. Within minutes of arriving. we managed to get lost in the beautiful cobblestone passages. S AIL C ROATIA — sail-croatia. Split and | August 2015 Word | 105 .

com . Words and photos compiled by Nick Ross 106 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.Travel TRAVEL CYCLING Routefinder Travelling this country atop a saddle takes you places you’d otherwise never venture. Here are personal accounts of cycle rides both in and out of the big cities.

I don’t like cycling over a bridge only for Strava to tell me my speed over this hump in the road puts me 100th out of 150 other cyclists who’ve done the route. an app to track routes. You’ll be surprised how many avid — | August 2015 Word | 107 . speeds and unite the cycling community. too. Some of them are damn fast. certainly in Saigon — use Strava. It’s an ego thing. crazy — cyclists there are out there. I have a competitive spirit. Simply find friends or follow someone.The App of all Apps Most cyclists in Vietnam — at least. if you want to track or discover routes. It’s also good if you want to team up with other cyclists. Or maybe the issue is I just don’t cycle fast enough. Me. However. this is the best way. but not that competitive. wordvietnam. I’m not all that keen on it.

I stop for a break 22km in. A month later both my daughter and myself had bought bikes. “I guess you’ve been here a long time. Follow all the way to the Cat Lai ferry. I remember being amazed. This is the life of a cyclist in this country. Early mornings to beat the heat. In front of me motorbikes hurry past in a mad rush to get to Vung Tau. I can’t. I’ve made it to Long Thanh. I’ve got family in Saigon. 50km before work. Highway 51 through Long Thanh. And in the two cages to my left. The idea for getting back on a bicycle came from a now recently-departed-Vietnam friend in . you’re gonna end up in the oddest of places. — Nick Ross ********** A typical conversation I have when I’m cycling: “Your Vietnamese is good. the experience. Breakfast.” says the old woman selling banh mi chung.” “Where are you going? Vung Tau?” “No. looking for a bottle of that cheap but surely unhealthy cyclist’s drink ubiquitous in Vietnam — Revive. It’s only 6am and already the traffic is out in force. the man behind The Hanoi Bicycle Collective unwittingly inducted us into Vietnam’s cycling club. Even now I marvel at how after 50km. odd roadside shacks in the middle of nowhere. Straight to District 2 Distance: 80km I ’m on my longest solo ride yet — a 78km loop via Long Thanh back to Saigon. three or four mornings a week he would cycle from West Lake to Noi Bai Airport and back. But it was another cyclist who got me back on the wheels — albeit an electric bike around-the-world cyclist — Guim Valls Teruel. roosters welcome the new day. If you’re gonna cycle.Route: The Long Thanh Loop Where: Highway 1 to the Big C roundabout. My daughter cycles occasionally. Turn right towards Nhon Trach. Me? I haven’t looked back.” “Pull up a seat and get in the shade. my friend could do a solid day’s work. It’s part of the fun. With several other cyclists. or at least a cyclist who likes distance. Is your family here?” “Yes.” “Hen gi… Thought so.” — Nick Ross ********** 108 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. even though the sun’s been up for half an hour. Nhon Trach and then back to Saigon. crazy highways. By letting my daughter and me borrow two bicycles one July afternoon in 2013. You should stay out of the sun for a bit.” “Yes I have.

Petrol riders are always shocked to see these bicycles appear from nowhere. motorbikes.Positive Mass Route: Around Central Hanoi Where: Start at St. the motorbikes. Joseph’s Cathedral then follow the bicycles around the city How long: Around 8km 8pm on the last Friday of each month. We pass the mausoleum before turning onto Phan Dinh Phung. It’s an experience. We’re trying to promote their use in cities. the road gets busy again — cars. Without an actual bike to my name — this part is pretty important — I settled on a In-Town Routes Here are a few of my favourites. It was an adventure. The idea for the more recent ride came in the pub. it turned into a reality I couldn’t back out of. But we do it on bicycles. S***. The coastal road from Vung Tau up through La Gi to Mui Ke Ga. Positive Mass — Vietnam's answer to the worldwide cycling phenomenon. particularly when you can see the look on people’s faces as we pass by. When I contacted him the next day. where our friends. buses. That’s 36 rides and counting. Joseph’s Cathedral. Le Thai To. it gets peaceful. — Guim Valls Teruel ********** The Perfect Preparation Route: Ho Chi Minh City to Mui Ne Where: Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau via Highway 1. It is always a great feeling as the mass of bicycles joins the mass of motorbikes on the lake road. But after the traffic lights at the intersection with Tran Phu. and drinking way too much rum and coke. Critical Mass. The loop routes can be joined anywhere along the | August 2015 Word | 109 . we always have to be careful not to be cut off from each other by traffic lights. Then on to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne Distance: 250km Before I rode the 250km to Mui Ne. St. So we travel at a slow. steady pace. We circumnavigate the lake before finishing up at St. where traffic is always quiet on Friday nights. Up to 60km Au Co — An Duong Vuong — Dong Ngac — Thuong Cat — river road towards Son Tay — back again wordvietnam. The trip culminated in me holding hands with strangers around a bonfire on the beach. join us en masse. Over 100 people ready to ride bicycles around downtown Hanoi. The ride will celebrate its third anniversary in September. Thanh Nien and the section going past the Hanoi Club and Thang Loi Hotel Past Thang Long Bridge Minimum 20km. Due to the size of our group. We cycle together with 100 other cyclists through the small and crowded streets of Hanoi. We do nothing different to what the millions of motorbikes do every day in town — we move together. Once we join Dien Bien Phu. Turning past the Ly Thai To statue we are once again on Hoan Kiem Lake. Joseph’s Cathedral in Hanoi. We start from the Cathedral and head down Nha Tho towards Hoan Kiem Lake. H O C HI M INH C ITY The Canal Loop 40km District 2 — Dien Bien Phu — Nhieu Loc Canal to Phan Dinh Phung — Straight up Nguyen Kiem to the Pham Van Dong roundabout — right to Thu Duc — through Thu Duc down Highway 1 back to District 2 The Phu My Bridge Loop 60km District 2 — Highway to Phu My Bridge — Nguyen Van Linh to Highway 1 — East-West Highway — Ton Duc Thang — Nguyen Huu Canh — Saigon Bridge — District 2 H ANOI West Lake 16km The full lake road plus Lac Long Quan. This was two years ago. Once we arrive at the end we turn right and pass under Long Bien bridge before cycling down Nguyen Huu Huan and heading onto Ly Thai To. We then turn right on Trang Thi — a much bigger street where it is easy to cycle freely and quietly. the most I’d ridden was 70km to Can Gio. making it difficult for us to travel in a group. I’d heard my riding partner Matthew talking about the trip with a friend.

When you cycle in a group you look out for everyone — it’s part of the experience. But I stopped short. It’s one of the dangers of cycling in Vietnam. The camaraderie. The path takes you to the river. At the last minute I nearly suggested we get the ferry to Vung Tau. On the other side turn immediate right. then “plough through mud like butter” the next. Friends had warned me of the suffering. Not the part running past Districts 4 and 7. cyclists are possessive about their routes. I rode the bike from District 2 to a friend’s impromptu barbecue in Phu My Hung. “I don’t want the whole world knowing this route. and the naturally occurring whisky starches would enhance my all-round ‘road awareness’. It was a Sunday morning and one of the cyclists I was with suggested we hit the Saigon River. It was the public holiday crush and we opted for nightly. We could ride from there. This would allow me to “burn up the tarmac” one day. The day before leaving.brand new cyclo-cross. but a lot of it is off-road. But it didn’t matter. I recommend it to you all. Day two was a slightly more pleasant grind through fields of dragon fruit in the 40-degree heat. and I wondered if I was doing the smart thing. — Nick Ross . Day one was a 110km slog along the highway to Vung Tau. then sat in the pool at Joe’s Garden Café soaking up the serenity of my hamstrings and lower back screamed all the way. Mui Ne. where we were offered a choice of hourly or nightly accommodation. “There’s a river path. two days before we were due to leave. On reaching it I chalked up a victory for what I call the unprepared amateur athlete.” James concurred. My 110 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Nipple Chaffing It was only during the short trip to meet Matthew for our pre-departure breakfast — full English of course — that the reality of two-and-a-half days in the saddle took shape. Heat. You’ll have to work out the rest Distance: 50km to 80km depending on how far you want to cycle up the river “I hope you’re not going to write about this. but the section going inland through Hoc Mon and then Cu Chi. drink nuoc mia (sugarcane juice) and keep peddling Trade Secrets Route: Saigon River to Hoc Mon or Cu Chi Where: Go to the ferry in Go Vap — Pha An Phu Dong. It’s at the end of Nguyen Thai Son Street.” I told him I would only direct people to its start — after all.” said Mike (name changed). This satisfied him. 7am is a late start — and by the time we were on the return journey from the riverside pagoda in Hoc Mon. I was getting hotter. “It’s 50 or 60k. It’s a nice journey. while my partner’s nipple chaffing got out of hand. And anyway. our prime objective had been fulfilled — getting out of the city. bring a spare inner tube. Too much sun. and rewarded us with a world-class stretch of panoramic coastal road between Mui Ke Ga and Phan Thiet before we hit our final destination. There I drank the maximum amount of alcohol I could in the allotted six-hour window. the sun was already high in the sky. Day three brought the relief that it would all be over soon. figuring the beer carbs would increase my ‘cadence’. And hotter. “It’s a nice ride. Heat stroke. — Jon Aspin with additional input from Matthew Rosenthal Tips: Pack light. The route in question was one I traversed in early January. I’m a sucker for a catchy sales pitch. On the return leg two of the cyclists began to fall off the pace — another normality when you’re cycling in groups — and the going was slow.” We had set off late — when you’re cycling 50km off road.” said Mike.

and I once almost got taken out by a taxi. Where the traffic is based around four wheels. wordvietnam. The difference is the type of vehicles on the road. And as a cyclist. you’re not much slower than the motorbikes. None of them were serious. I feel much safer on a bicycle in Vietnam than I do in London (which is where I also cycle a lot). I do just the same: cycling in Vietnam is safe. In ‘Nam it’s mainly two-wheeled — you’re part of the traffic and once you hit decent speeds. Oh. But then. the vehicles around you have to avoid you. but both were caused by idiot motorbike drivers who pulled out without looking. I’ve seen two cycling accidents in Vietnam. It’s a different sensation and infinitely more | August 2015 Word | 111 . At least.How Safe Is It? Humans justify their behaviour — it is natural.

there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from. 110 rooms. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma. Tel: (04) 3938 1048 josephshotel. the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. stylish bars. sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. and a favourite of the business With deluxe rooms and suites. Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Hoan Kiem. a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use. lounge restaurant on the second floor. Hoan With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi. the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully Resting just a step away from the Opera House. this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. And like you’d expect. Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla. Truc Bach Lake and the Red River. uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat. a swimming The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Located next to the cathedral. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna. with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150. INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam. home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung. Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. Tel: (04) 3733 0688 pullman-hanoi. Me Tri. TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan. Tel: (04) 3831 5555 hanoi-daewoohotel. Chinese and international cuisine. Great gym and health club. a stylish bar. there’s a fitness centre. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. night club and swimming pool. Hoan Kiem. Dalat. Tel: (04) 6270 8888 Located in the centre of the Old Quarter. M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square. Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel. Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet. Dalat. and a la carte restaurant. Do Duc Duc. Breakfast is included and in the long. this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Tel: (04) 3822 2800 moevenpick-hanoi. Q1. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. Quiet. Tel: (063) 382 2663 M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai. colonial era. This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities. Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi. the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. this popular wellappointed. two-storey villa. Hoan . May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter. This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a With its distinctive French architecture and top end service. comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite. Hoan Kiem. Hoan From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside. This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer. Hoan The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Tay Ho. topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar. this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong. European-style hostel in town. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of Surrounded by lush gardens. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi. a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen. Hoan Kiem. the hotel offers a full service restaurant. the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. Set to the west of town. Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial. Boasts two swimming pools. Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. presentations and celebrations. Located near the Dalat Train Station. Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3. Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam. The 5-star hotel features 317 This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. 1 Quang Trung. the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon Probably the cheapest. airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter. Ba Dinh. M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh. Hanoi. along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. elegant restaurants. comfortable. a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. great balcony areas. Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet. Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.000. an excellent Excellently located in central Hanoi. a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. and with four restaurants and two bars. M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen. Hoan Kiem. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and Located in central Dalat. Hanoi. and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. Hai Ba Trung. serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. Hoan Kiem sixonsixteen. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat 112 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Tu Liem. Dalat. Ba Dinh. 93 are non-smoking. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu.intercontinental. Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel. a contemporary lobby. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter. plus a couple of double suites from VND250. Hoan Kiem.hgi. 11 Xuan Dieu.hilton.Travel DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai. including a tennis court and spa. this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant. this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Tay Ho. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi. My Dinh Commune. the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities. Beautiful views. Ba Dinh. State-of-the-art rooms. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong. this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. Tel: (04) 3828 5372 hanoibackpackershostel. this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop. Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3934 3343 meliahanoi. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake. Hanoi. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh. Shortly to become a Marriot property. a spa. the lavish. Q5. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. Tu Liem. Hanoi. features free Wi-Fi. this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton. Hoan Kiem. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road. In addition to the luxurious rooms. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8. Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort. Hanoi. Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings. Close to the National Convention Center. DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake. this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury.

Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.park. and a wellness centre including a swimming pool. with first–class THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh. Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon. multi-shower. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments. Hoa Cuong Bac. Phu Nhuan. Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels. an innovative cocktail bar. gym. Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu. This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao. Danang. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon. Q1. everything one would expect from the Includes three massive swimming pools. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square.josephshotel. Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang. Beautiful. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1. Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon. Corso. each with a private pool. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel. An ongoing event as well as a hotel. This 20–story building in downtown Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices. this well-appointed. Each massive room has its own espresso machine. this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Q1. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong. an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi. Da hotel Next to the cathedral M M M HCMC . Hai Chau. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre. Tel: (0510) 386 2231 Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region. contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design. Hoi DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.S. Hoa HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai. Ngu Hanh Son. The Equatorial also has an on-site This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi. and a fine selection of fine dining. Tel: (0510) 394 0000 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton. Hoan Kiem. a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. there is little reason not to choose this shining Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien. And with extensive function 5. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao. Accor-managed property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.newworldhotels. Q1. fine dining. together with luxury boutique arcade. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien. Dien Duong Village. Ngu Hanh Son. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Former guests include U.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian Immaculate architecture. seven meeting this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese Q1. resides the Asiana with signature dining options. plasma TV. sauna and Fabulous in style. the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2. a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town. Quang Nam. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan. spacious and airy.MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Q2.This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool. Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel. the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern CUA DAI $ 544. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Situated on the banks of the Saigon River.regency. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon. LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan. health club. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi. this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous Intimate atmosphere and excellent service. Tel: (0511) 396 1800 FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap. With an idyllic Q1. RIVERSIDE RENAISSANCE $$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang. Q1. a business centre. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1. Q5. a sauna. Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. friendly service and limousine services. outdoor swimming pool. Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel. Q1. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments. In the heart of Saigon. Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon. spacious rooms. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. Danang. Tel: (08) 3920 6992 Free wi-fi. Khue My. Au Trieu. Indochine-influenced The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank). Q1. 24-hours room In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. comfort and connectivity. Tel: (08) 3825 1417 wordvietnam. caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel. Hoi An anbangbeachretreat. Q1. friendly staff. Ngu Hanh Son. a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great. and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. as has the landscaped pool. clean rooms. PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap. an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar. Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel. | August 2015 Word | 113 . a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island. this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole. Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang. Tel: (08) 3744 6090 Set on the Han River. designer shops. this upscale. a 4th floor ballroom. pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel. Cua Dai. and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung. Khue My. Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446 ducvuonghotel. Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach. Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run. Q3. Q1. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai. Low prices. Innovative cuisine. 24-hour fine dining. a 600-capacity ballroom. airport pickup or drop off. and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel. prime in location. Phu Nhuan. presidents — two Bushes. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation. Q1. non-city centre choice. New World is one of the best luxury stops in Ngu Hanh M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1. international breakfast. Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang. a gym. Q1. meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. lift. Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel. exclusive spa and health club.

No culture. back to back with a sack of durians… Maaan. Shaking like an earthquake. There are barely any high viewpoints. Not a single working fan. finally get to Yangon.. all the temples are quite spread out and once you’ve seen two.. Broken seats left and right.! Then it moves. Welcome to Nay Pyi Taw! Went to a ‘museum’ — closed.. Not like he was gonna find any other clients here anyways. No houses.THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 5: THIS IS 'BURMA' (TAKE II) With Nemo the motorbike en route to Bangladesh by sea. I convinced a lone taxi driver to rent me his bike for the day. the rest are just… more of the same… . before I ever heard of this country called Myanmar. No traffic. DAY 73 DAY 78 Martini Shaker Overnight train to Yangon. Matt Dworzanczyk continues his journey across Asia north via Myanmar. Went to a ‘water fountain garden’ — no water and three broken fountains. wide roads — you could land a jumbo jet here! You could land two! No people.. North Korea Déjà Vu? Silly! Bizarre! Eeh?! Whoever thought this was a good idea? Capital City? Haha! A mad dictator’s insane little dream. I saw a picture of Bagan and I was mesmerized. I still wonder if it’s an Oz-like façade for some little shack hidden behind it. more like! So Weird! (in the voice of the photographer from Holy Motors). everything rattling inside me for another three days. Stench and garbage everywhere. Sick like never before.. People are getting thrown out of their seats. Massive. There’s little else here but roads. For years I’ve been hurting to visit and now I finally get here and I feel. Air con? What’s that? Let me find my seat… oh there it is — the only piece of floor available. Spent the afternoon doing donuts in front of the ridiculous parliament building. unimpressed. Is this damn thing on springs?! Only four hours… I can do it… I can do it… 12 hours later. Those birds-eye view pictures you see in magazines — you just don’t get that here. Bodies piled on top of each other. DAY 80 More Temples Long ago.

This is awesome! For more on Matt’s films and | August 2015 Word | 115 . but don’t stop 3) Look the other way 4) Hope Nobody chases me! That’s how I got into Chin state. am staying a while. check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky. on every bench and house-front. away on a boat. the brakes don’t work. my bike. No power in whole town tonight and my guesthouse’s generator is broken. Halfway there.DAY 82 Kenbo With Nemo. Got help from a local from Falam and followed him to town. ultra-Catholic. This whole place reminds me of my great-grandfather’s old house in rural Poland. Spent the afternoon watching Bon Jovi music videos in the guy’s purple. shocks worn out. DAY 86 Chin State Checkpoint procedure: 1) Visor Down 2) Slow down. green and European-style countryside. DAY 83 English Summer Getaway Took a bus to Mandalay. except for the ultra-heavy police presence. Their gauges are typically all dead. work. can’t start the thing again… Kenbo. old English film set somehow dropped in the middle of Asian mountains. engine went up in smoke. The local hangout is the old hospital on a hill. Vivid. Well. Kenbo crapped up. I’ve been riding rentals through Myanmar. I’m not fond of religion. painted slogans proclaiming love for Jesus on every tree. This whole town feels like a colorful. The hotel owner stops by for a candlelit wordvietnam. I collectively call them “Kenny”. but this place actually feels warm and welcoming. Weather’s cooler and it’s so nice. dammit! I miss my Nemo. Ended up in Pyin Oo Lwyin instead. wooden house and feeling strangely touched with 1990s nostalgia. Didn’t know where to get off. I like it here. mirrors are gone and the wood-hard seats… maaan…! Why so rough. Kenny? Uh. excited to be hosting the rare foreigner.

and includes free Wi-Fi. Ham Tien. Mui Ne. Xa Duong To. spa. Vung Tau. Ninh Hoa. The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. M M M PHU QUOC MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang. Khanh Hoa. an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing Built on a crescent bay. Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort. hotel and spa right on the beach of Phu Quoc island in the peaceful town of Duong To. M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road. and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. Phan Another beachfront Victoria A five-star luxury beach resort. Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Phu Loc. Cam This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort. boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Hue. Khanh PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi. a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Mui Ne. beauty salon and jacuzzi. Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc. this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Phan Thiet. Discount rates during rainy season. Khanh Hoa. Tel: (052) 367 5135 cocobeach. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan. Mui M M M EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu. a private beach. Tel: (062) 381 3000 A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant. this resort offers verandah dining. Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage. Hue. draught beer. Quang Binh. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach. The location is stunning. An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Bo Trach. the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool. RESORT AND SPA Cua Lap Hamlet. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang. Cam Hai Dong. Phan Rang. this budget place is all about hammocks. Has a pleasant. a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600. COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Tel: (054) 369 5888 A leafy. with a family room for five costing VND1. Evenings are sublime at this beach club. Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue. the sea. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a .com victoriahotels. Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang. the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort. the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Tel: (062) 384 7440 BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap. soon to become a fully fledged resort. Ninh Thuan. SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran life-resorts. Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape. Cu Nam. Phu Loc. This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms. Hue. Tel: (077) 398 0998 VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach. the jungle and nature. Tel: 0203 871946 Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast. Quang Binh. Tel: (077) 399 0011 salindaresort. Nha Trang. on a bay accessible only by boat. PHOTO BY MATT DWORZANCZYK 116 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in The best view in town from its bar restaurant. Quang Binh. Bo Trach. airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands. restaurant. Phu Quoc. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim. Loc Vinh Commune. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay. Tel: (062) 384 7111 HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana. Nha Trang. Long M M M NHA TRANG JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh easytigerphongnha@gmail. Thua Thien Hue. Phu Quoc Island. Tel: (068) 627 2727 The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha. Phan Tel: (062) 384 7177 joescafemuine. Duong To Commune. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu. all with a terrace and sea view. Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses. sangria. The rooms have big windows.000 for a twin or double. Vung Tau. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses. Thua Thien. Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton. Mui 2. Tel: (052) 367 7844 NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu. Khanh Hoa. Phu Quoc.000) each a With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley. M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702. Sapa. Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge. Motorbike rental.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods. Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam. European The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. Con Dao. phong-nha-homestay. Loc Vinh Commune. a seafood restaurant. PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son. Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel. just 4km from the international airport of Phu phong-nha-cave. SALINDA PHU QUOC ISLAND. seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. spa. Ninh Hai. Ninh Hoa. Tel: 01299 597182 With charming wooden bungalows. and log fireplaces.Travel M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village. Grilled seafood. Complete with a pool.4 million a night. the bungalows are made of rammed JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Bo Trach. a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

renewable biodiesel. Laos. Ba Dinh. Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau. Ext. Tel: (08) 3824 7744 BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 flightravelco. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. A one-stop. Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel. Extras include tennis on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh Ward 4. handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. 2nd Floor. TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu. Tel: (04) 3828 0702. Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours. diverse. Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram. Tel: (064) 383 1222 Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. including global travel management. Vung Tau. domestic and international air booking and travel insurance. Q1. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010. English-speaking tour guides lead the way. history and culture. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (064) 378 1631 Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992. Thao Dien. or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. explore the world or Vietnam. offering innovative day A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May. Can Tho City. Also find travel desks at the Hilton. cuisine. Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. restaurants. Tel: (04) 3944 8844 A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia. BEENINASIA. Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. an exclusive VIP Established in 1997. Halong SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach. Intrepid focuses wordvietnam. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham. and cycling and motorbike tours. a world-class casino. Providing up-market services. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy. Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May. 157 Pasteur. Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. which are open on weekends and holidays. trekking in the highlands. high quality. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao. Tel (08) 3519 4111. Xuyen Online travel in Southeast Asia. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf info@beeninasia. Tel: (04) 3926 2828 M M M handspan. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don. Tel: (04) 3828 0702 The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. many including insights into culinary customs. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung. The Bluffs. to corporate companies. With expert guides and guaranteed departures. Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. Tan Binh Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact. Cambodia. one of the best golf courses in Vietnam. all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond.local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming Hanoi. 103 Nguyen Truong A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. Handspan provides customers with safe. Flight travel services. 15/17/19 The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. American Airlines (aa.COM If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta. From corporate travel to small group tours. Q3. high-tech meeting space. com M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. powered by clean. Ba Ria-Vung Tau. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel. family and individual travelers. | August 2015 Word | 117 .com This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. com). Ho Chi Minh City. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune. Myanmar and Thailand. EXO TRAVEL 41. Laos and Cambodia. Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people. Hoan Kiem Dist. Hanoi. Mekong Delta. short breaks and small group adventures. Ba Dinh. Hanoi. a mini supermarket. Ha Noi. Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip. Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu. Q1. Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling. small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam. Hoan Kiem. hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam.

Contact the resort for full details. The Stay 3 Pay 2 opening offer at the Fusion Resort Nha Trang costs from VND6. 2015. 7 and Dec. Singapore. Taipei.fusion-resorts. the stunning Emeralda Resort in Ninh Binh is running a Family First package until Aug. .850.000 per person for one night’s accommodation in a superior room with breakfast and a round trip train ticket from Hanoi to Lao Cai on the Victoria Express.000 per night or Emeralda. free entrance to the kid’s club. Located on the edge of the Van Long Nature Reserve.000 for two nights for the whole family. free half day use of two bikes. For more details email info@ Exo Travel have teamed up with a number of resorts in Vietnam to create travel deals for anyone looking to travel from now until Oct. The flight deals are for all domestic routes as well as international flights to Every day from midday to 2pm. 2015 through to vietjetair. It’s going to be busy online. Up to two people can stay in each room. Seoul and Yangon. 118 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. make sure you’ve got your proposed flight dates and destination sorted out well in advance. Fusion Maia Danang. a daily set menu family or call (0303) 658 333 Fusion Maia Danang maiadanang. pay-for-five-nights deal from Sep. and a pool villa with a private pool and courtyard. so if you’re booking. breakfast at anytime any place.TRAVEL PROMOS Step out with some very cheap flight deals this Autumn with VietJetAir Exo Travel VietJetAir Deals exotravel. 31. For the full selection of offers either click on their website or email saigonagency@ exotravel. 31. Ninh Binh emeraldaresort. 2015. the deal includes breakfast. This includes the four-star Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa Summer Promotion which costs from VND4. from VND3. The promotion is for flights between Sep. and a host of extra discounts. 31. any place) and the property’s signature Chamveda Treatment (minimum of two spa treatments per day per person). 1.901.000 per suite per night including breakfast (any time. Only a 90-minute drive from The all-inclusive spa resort. The deal includes all spa treatments (minimum two per day guaranteed). is running a stay-seven-nights. VietJetAir is running an online promotion where customers can book flights for zero cost — the only thing they have to pay is airport tax and add-ons such as check-in luggage. 31.

Hanoi The Alchemist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / The Therapist / Food Promos / Medical Buff / Book Buff Photo by Julie Vola | August 2015 Word | 119 .

” Indian yogi.THE ALCHEMIST SPORT’S HOLY GRAIL A thletes often speak of being in the ‘zone’. visit a-roamingbodyworker. to be in the ‘zone’ is to be in the ‘flow’. is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. they speak in terms of ‘presence’. surrendering to the game or challenge. persist and play with abandon. Jaggi Vasudev believes that a sporting event is sacred when the individual moves beyond their limitations and achieves a state of abandon usually known only at the peak of spirituality. Writer Polly Campbell offers three ways to make sport more spiritual. Swami Vivekananda. Karen Gay. The 19th century Indian monk. nature retreats or creative expression. They often liken the experience to being spiritual. for your teammates and for your opponents. Some devote themselves to religious faith. 2) Cultivate compassion for yourself. the outside world disappears giving rise to spiritual or mystical experiences. and perhaps the attainment of the Holy Grail. sport can be compared to meditation whereby the activity or game can have the same function as a mantra. 3) Let go and surrender to the experience of the moment without concern for outcomes. producing seemingly effortless results allows for moments of serenity. others seek a more personal connection and engage in activities such as yoga. Spiritual experiences are unique to each individual. For information on the types of services provided. one can then recognise that everyone is ‘striving together’ — the true sense of BY KAREN GAY 1) Be present and aware by moving into the moment and engaging with it fully. ‘a mystery’. Mihaly feels that sport is important When our attention is focused. you are much closer to the Divine than you will ever be in prayer. meditation. went so far as to say. acting as a focal point for one’s attention. The feeling of being at one with whatever you’re doing. Communing with the Divine Developing a Practice For psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi. A-Roaming Bodyworker. instead strive. In showing respect and appreciation for the experience. and ‘a way of finding meaning and value in life’. When runners describe the spiritual dimension of running. a place where everything clicks and they shift to a higher level of performance. pursue. joy and transcendence. “In kicking a ball or playing a game. Although he acknowledges that we can find ‘flow’ wherever our passion lies. From this stance. The Meaning of Life 120 | Word August 2015 | . Spirituality is a vital aspect to the human experience and can be found in almost any human endeavour. because it is one of the most readily available ways of generating a state of “heightened focus and blissful immersion”.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP 23/67 To Ngoc Van. the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. deep tissue massage. Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet. Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air M M M CLOTHING ccifv. Ba AIR FRANCE airfrance. 1 Thanh nien. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu. 1A Nghi Tam. leather bags. The products — CCIFV Sofitel Plaza. Tel: (04) 3934 2790 amchamhanoi. but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies. Tel: (04) 3824 CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific. offering a sense of exclusivity. Hoan goethe. Tay Ho. Tay THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. Hoan Kiem. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs. Hoan Kiem. HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi A guide to various holistic health practitioners in KOREAN AIR koreanair. 100 Lo Duc. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 SKATESHOP booskateshop. M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long. healing stones CONTRABAND ICHAM Sofitel Plaza. says it all. XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 32 Hai Ba VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines. Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 metiseko. Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative. shoes and handicrafts. Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An. Services include craniosacral therapy. Tel: (04) 3928 8725 M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau THREE TREES JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho. Call to arrange THINGS OF SUBSTANCE HANOI OIS 5 Nha SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna eurochamvn. Vietnamese prices”. Has a good selection of unique men’s HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu. Textile Exchange. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Hoan Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace. shirts. Clothes fit all sizes. Tel: (04) 3824 1850 EVENT SPACE AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia. skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi. as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen. Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994 GOETHE INSTITUT METISEKO GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 hitshanoi. retail outlet and café. Ground floor. L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3926 4831. the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se. Metiseko is also certified by the a-roamingbodyworker. Tel: (04) 3715 2229 23 Nha VIETJETAIR LAO AIRLINES laoairlines. InterContinental Hanoi. sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. NETBALL CLUB ghanoinetball@gmail. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. 1 Thanh Nien. but international Provides various holistic healing modalities. Hoan A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi. 58 Hang Trong. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE BBGV Floor 1. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001.000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681 bbgv. 6B Lang Ha. Tel: (04) 3715 2228 84 Hang JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar. where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking.Hanoi Essentials ALTERNATIVE HEALTH BUSINESS GROUPS HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP A-ROAMING BODYWORKER g karen@a-roamingbodyworker. 71 Hang SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair. Ba Dinh sbav-hanoi. held in a beautiful setting. Tel: (04) 3926 4831 TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair. Open weekends only.jal. Hoan Kiem. accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long. prenatal massage. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. No 1 Thanh Nien. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS 44 Trang Tien. Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines. DVDs and more. from petite to average to the generous figure. Ba CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines. Tay Ho. Ba BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing. Hoan Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school. They also offer culinary tours. Ba Dinh. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. but a great information . Contraband targets young hip working women. this shop offers a huge range of dresses. Tel: (04) 3825 4068 M M M AMCHAM 4th Floor. Hoan Kiem. 13 Hang Bac. Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub. Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them. Tel: (04) 3715 3711. Only available online. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day. Ba Dinh. pants. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre. Workshops are also new and old. M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van. With over 15. M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village. 1/28 Nghi Tam Village. Tay CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE Stocks women’s wear. Tay Ho. as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. poetic prints designed for an JAPAN AIRLINES BOO SKATESHOP EUROCHAM G/ L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien. Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western AUSCHAM 4th Floor. the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books. AMERICAN CLUB eco-chic lifestyle.

Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region. Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh. FRUIT & VEG 99 Xuan Dieu. The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An. Tel: (04) 6682 0400 SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER 51 Xuan Dieu. com Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage. Me Tri Street. Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane A place to work. Hoan Kiem. 53 Ly Nam De. Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.wordpress. artist studios. Tel: (04) 3941 2789 WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl. Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. Tel: 0987 718899 TOP-END SALON Sofitel Plaza. with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN. 49 Lane 15. 65 Le Duan. 51 Xuan Dieu. The clinic provides the highest quality technology. enabling them to make an income and care for their HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL 55 Yen Ninh. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES 34 Nghi Tam. Tay Ho. A collective that promotes col- 162A Hoang Hoa Tham. Tel: (04) 3974 9999 VINCOM ROYAL CITY 72A Nguyen Trai. Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3928 7666. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3826 2076. Tay Ho. 198 Tay Son. Tel: (04) 3928 5190 artvietnamgallery. 1 Thanh Nien. Hoan Kiem.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet . Somewhere to see something new. Hang Bai and Trang Tien. Hoan The first experimental art space in Hanoi. the non-profit. Ba Dinh. Ba Dinh. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. Khu B1 Pham Hung. peacedentalclinic. Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST. Tel: (04) 7305 8880 SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER The Manor. artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. 27 Xuan Dieu. Ba Tel: (04) 3266 8190 M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL 136G Tran Vu. Tel: (04) 3934 3854 3 Nguyen Du. M M M GALLERIES METISEKO ECO-CHIC 71 Hang KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An. 28 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3333 6016 lottecenter. Ba Dinh. Cau Giay. Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666 parkson. Keangnam Office Tower. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. Dong Da. Tay Ho. Syrena Center. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet. Tel: (04) 3718 3701 Cau Giay. Tel: 0985 870316 nhasanstudio. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai. Ba Dinh. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3843 7231 TRANG TIEN PLAZA cnr. Tel: (04) 3715 3717 bumrungrad. Tay Ho. Tay Ho. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors. Ba Dinh. Hoan Kiem. Alley 12. Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES 29 Nhat M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac. comfort and after-service care to patients.Hanoi Essentials Mekong-quilts. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL 12 Chu Van 122 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Tay PARKSON Viet Tower Plaza. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences. Ba Dinh. My Dinh. this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. 51 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3719 7214 hongngochospital. Tel: (04) 3927 5568. Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Founded in 2012. but they are used to treating expats. Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational. Ba Dinh. Ba Dinh. Tel: 04 3939 3907 ANNAM GOURMET LAN SALON GROCERIES / DELI First Floor. Dong Da. Hai Ba laboration and new ideas. this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions. Tel: (04) 3974 3550 . Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. No. Also a 24-hour emergency service. Tel: 1900 555596 LOTTE CENTER 54 Lieu Giai. Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc. Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226. Tel: (04) 3715 2286 DENTAL CLINIC 19 Nguyen Truong To. Tay Ho. To Ngoc Van. Hoan Kiem. workshops and a wide range of art events. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook. Pediatricians and ENT. Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong. A space to create. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 PICO MALL 229 Tay Son. Hanoi trangtienplaza. NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS 24 Ly Quoc Su. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable VINCOM CITY TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu. Hai Ba Trung. high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. Tel: 0906 200434 australiandentalclinic. Ba Dinh. MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE 14 Phan Huy ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across RED APRON WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong. Ba Thanh Xuan. paediatrics and specialist care. 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu. Tay Ho. allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. Tay Ho. SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC WORK ROOM FOUR 2nd floor. 23rd Floor. Tel: 0989 067888 serenitydentalclinic. Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST 15 Kim On the little street directly below Kim Ma. Tel: (04) 3733 2131 PEACE DENTAL CLINIC HAIR STREAM GROCERIES & LIQUOR NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM DENTAL CLINIC M M M 17 Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac. An Duong Established in M M M DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE 24 Ly Quoc Su. Tay Ho workroomfour. Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart. Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500 INDOCHINA PLAZA 241 Xuan Thuy. contacts and events. Hoan Kiem. the shop employs women in rural areas. L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu. Hoan HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE VEGGIE’S vnfam. courses.

Sofitel A not-for-profit. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE. Does sales. Blg CT13B Ciputra. 1 Thanh Nien. 59A Ly Thai To. The Manor 17 Ve Ho. Hoang Mai. Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level. international education options in the capital. pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. Tay Ho. Has a full range of services — domestic moves. Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi. Tel: (04) 3795 8878 GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS R714. Xuan La. Allied Pickfords moves over 1.050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB wordvietnam. Tel: 0912 094464 LANLINH PROPERTY PHUNG MOTORBIKE 38 Hang Hom.000 families in over 175 countries every day. Ct13b building. Dai Kim Urban Area. 67 To Ngoc Van. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England. LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th 106 Hang Bac. Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828 hanoirenting. Hoa Binh International Towers. Cau Giay. Long Bien. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS M M M M M M PROPERTY RENTALS RELOCATION AGENTS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS 6 Ngoc Van. A notfor-profit A non-profit entity. Hai Ba QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. co-educational day school. Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.qsi. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building. Tel: (04) 3943 1511 21 Alley 1/22 Au Co. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3946 0435 The largest home moving company in the world. Australian and Vietnamese curricula. Block C3. Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS 37 Ta Hien. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3726 1601. Tay Ho. Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified. hanoi. My Dinh. repairs and rentals. Tel: 3758 2664. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3974 3556 With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education. Shophouse CT17. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10. Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane. with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Tel: (04) 3934 7243. Tel: Tel: 0933 534999 MOTORBIKE RENTALS 13 Ngo Huyen. Tel: (04) 3743 0360. office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh vn. with 130 offices globally. Tel: (04) 3938 8762 Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. Tel: (04) 3936 5370 insuranceinasia. restoration. 1st Floor. Dinh Cong. Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488 M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL. Tel: (04) 3794 0209 kinderworld. Ba A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations. Tay Ho. independent. Tay Ho. Class sizes are small. 106 Hoang Quoc Viet. Tel: (04) 3718 6332 fair-realestate. Duy M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham. 46 Van Bao. Press Club. Hoan Kiem. Tay Ho. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean. HANOI Hoa Lan Road. UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural Provides an international education for students from Primary up to University level. Ciputra. Tay A selective. Tel: (04) 3938 1105 RENTALS houseinhanoi. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111 REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor. Tay Ho. 809. Duy Tan. Cau Giay. HIS is one of the few private.VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Tu Liem. all taught by qualified teachers. VIETLONG HOUSING VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS RENTALS & REPAIRS vietlonghousing. Tel: 3540 9183 | August 2015 Word | 123 . Tay Ho. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location. 3rd Floor. Ba Dinh. ALLIED PICKFORDS Room Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. Ciputra. Tel: (04) 3832 8140 hisvietnam. Lac Long Quan. C5-C11. Tel: (04) 3718 5203 AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To. Tay Ho. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age HANOI RENTING RENTALS No. Ba Dinh. Dilmah Established in 1988. will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. Lac Long Quan. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3743 0589 gialonghousing. Vinhomes Riverside. Tel: (04) 3718 6418 programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. JVK is currently a leader in the field. GAC. 12A Ho Xuan Huong. Pending authorization. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra. Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3795 1036 kinderworld. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai .

Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. Tel: (04) 6266 0495 . There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. Garden Shopping VIETCLIMB ZENITH YOGA YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co. soaps. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To. M M M CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong. Co Nhue. 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh. relocation services including home search. Mai Dich. classes and children’s events. yoga and pilates With over 150 offices around the world. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out. Essentials MMM SPORTS. They offer clinics. VietClimb is a Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for The Manor. Tel: (04) 3771 3305 umove. SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS 19 Nui Truc. Ba Dinh. Tu Liem. restorative yoga. FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 2218 5757 hanoisport. Tel: (04) 3755 1617 metro. Cau This place is top of the range. Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. clothes. Santa Fe offers local and international moving. orientation. Hoan HANOI SPORTS SHOP Ground Floor. Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles. Tay Ho. My Dinh. Tel: (04) 3934 2999 FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To. Tel: (04) 3923 1147 bosua.Hanoi SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite SCORE-TECH 44. 135 Bui Thi Xuan. Hoan Kiem. Ba STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl. immigration services and records management. Hoan Kiem. Cau CITIMART UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING 13 Hang Dieu. Hanoi Towers. books. 49 Hai Ba Trung. schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING 84 Hang Dieu. Hoan Kiem. but be prepared to pay. Tel: (04) 3718 8246 score-tech. Hoan Kiem. 16 Duong Thanh. pilates and tai chi. including prenatal and postnatal classes. Tu Liem bigc. Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb. Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness. Hoan Kiem METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor. separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable pet transportation. cultural training. Tel: (04) 6263. Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo. Also have a yogic shop offering Although a little hard to find. SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung. Tay Ho. 14 Tran Binh The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Membership and group rates are available. Tay Ho. Hai Ba PHOTO BY VU BAO KHANH 124 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.1515 studio5. Vietnam Trade Hotel. but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

you came for the characters. or the girls that once got into a bar fight over their YouTube song choices. shining bright yellow in the streetlights. and it reminded me of so many of my favourite dingy dives in New York City.000) to the menu — it’s made with a wholly handcrafted patty. Luan. While cocktails like Margaritas and Mojitos start at VND65. Friday and Sunday are Acoustic Nights. Any big events coming up soon? “The big event is every night.” says Jeppe. He paid a year’s rent up front and brought on his friend. The crew recently added the delicious Spy burger (VND45.BAR STOOL SPY BAR I ’ve been to Spy Bar once before. former owner of Half Man Half Noodle. an oasis in the sea of Hoan Kiem’s backpacker bars. to run the place. Community is at the centre of their vision for the bar. like the American that often drunkenly waxes philosophical in his underwear. but it does the job: Viking hotdogs ( | August 2015 Word | 125 . and that familiar sense of the bars that you used to call home. then just a small Vietstyle watering hole. He wanted to create a place where expats could gather late at night. made by Søren Lee Nielsen. An Irish musician was playing an acoustic cover of Sexual Healing while cars and motorbikes crisscrossed in orderly chaos past the front door. The Bacon For the hungry boozers.000).000) and Gin & Tonics (VND55. The Mustard He moved to Vietnam from Denmark in 2011 and spent his first six months drinking Photos by Jesse Meadows regularly at Spy Bar. Hanoi wordvietnam. They can even use the bar as a base to park their bikes while they wander the Old Quarter (as long as they come back home to Spy Bar at the end of the night. — Jesse Meadows Spy Bar is at 12 Nguyen Huu Huan.000) and artisanal Danish sausages (VND45. dark hole in the wall. where local musicians play songs on the sidewalk. perfect for quelling those drunken munchies. After all.000). “This is just like my home bar in my home town. did you? No. They redesigned the space with Western sensibilities in mind: dark wood panelling lined with LED lights. a butcher of 15 years who Jeppe brought all the way from Denmark for his culinary talents. Hoan Kiem. When his favourite spot started floundering due to management issues. cheeky signs about drinking too much. of course). I settled in with a beer and a cigarette and listened to Jeppe’s stories. It was a long. the menu is simple.000. patrons can choose their own tunes via a laptop set up for YouTube DJing. you didn’t go to the dive bar for a Cosmo. and an upstairs loft complete with a poker table and an ‘eye spy’ mural airbrushed on the wall. I stumbled in through the heavy iron shutters after all the other bars in the Old Quarter had closed. the focus here is on no-frill beverages like beer (VND25. I returned on a Friday and sat at a table where I could take in the view: the bustling overpass where Chuong Duong Bridge intersects the dyke road. the stories.” says Jeppe Haugstrup. packed to the brim with glassy-eyed revelers. and recounts tales of the bar’s most memorable characters. When the live music finishes. He describes the crowd as “50 percent expats. 30 percent locals and 20 percent daring tourists”. he decided he had to save it. one of the men at the helm.

doors and other mysterious pathways. After we ordered our drinks. To some. with tiny rooms and a low ceiling lined with wooden frames. On the shelves were books in French and Polish. Passport by Nana Mouskouri: names that don’t ring much of a bell to someone of my . The corner where we were sat had a window next to it which let the sunlight filter in. stairs that revealed a small terrace bordered by greenery. affectionately equipped with its own light source. a carpet framed on a wall). Despite the temptation to sit on the sunlit balcony. this might feel claustrophobic. Chairs seemed to be collected at random. we crept up to the second floor through narrow and winding stairs. and each wall was adorned with at least one artwork. I decided to look around and realised that the little plant pot was not the only weird decoration in the café. we opted to settle down inside. things got more bizarre.COFFEE CUP TANG TRET COSMO CAFÉ L ed by a waiter. The second floor felt small. having originally come here to seek shelter from the heat. A Little Bit of Everything The architecture was that of an old French colonial villa. Directly next to us was a potted plant. The latter ranged from football-themed oil paintings and old propaganda posters to watercolour drawings and textiles (yes. Down the first floor. One of the walls had torn out dictionary pages for wallpaper. but to me it was simply cozy. There were also old vinyl records: the Spinners.

But make sure you come on a quiet afternoon or morning. but still familiar enough to ignite a fleeting feeling of nostalgia. Then I realised what made this dainty café as endearing as it is. the homely feeling offered up by this place. It was as if whoever was the author wanted to freeze all of their memories in time. the piece of décor that summed up the whole café: a big. A bit like your own home. a box of cigarettes — everything was condensed into that seven-coloured space. rainbow-coloured. photos. A One-of-a-Kind Escape The pricy and sugary drinks will not be the reason why I would come back here. yet still warm and familiar. Rather it’s the ambience. Tel: (04) 6686 0517 wordvietnam. — To Thu Phuong Tang Tret Cosmo Café is at 10 Khuc Hao. this small hole in the wall has created a unique atmosphere that other places fail to capture. so that you can have the café and all that charm to yourself. I found the masterpiece. Tang Tret exudes an effortless and comforting feel. or at odd hours.Photos by Vu Bao Khanh generation. Walking into Tang Tret Cosmo Café is a bit like meeting a person. a teddy bear. The place is like somebody’s box of memories. To anyone looking for a quiet haven in the midst of noisy and dusty Hanoi. on an old fireplace that was stripped of its original purpose. this is where you should nestle | August 2015 Word | 127 . translucent box. Hanoi. Finally. Full of surprises. an old pair of sunglasses. Instant noodles. Ba Dinh.

com. Tay Ho A trendy. CLUBS & BEER CLUBS able place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven. with well over a 1. 9 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 6276 6665 facebook. To die A bar and grill with an eclectic. but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial 128 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the facebook. Tel: 01262 054970 31 Xuan Dieu. Unicorn offers up a lounge space. Hai Ba Trung. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Hoan A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers. as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender. oodles of Jameson’s and often open End of 264 Au Co. this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events. Notorious for its burgers. Lounge. dog-friendly. cooked fresh to A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. POLITE PUB LONG BAR LIQUOR LOUNGE LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE With well-poured drinks. too. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel. Tay Ho. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB Top Floor. Unpretentious. Pham Tien Tiep. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong. and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. hideaway. Tel: 0904 010116 republic. wine. Hai Ba Trung. beer or even a bite to eat.09XuanDieu The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with im- . Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door. The views here are pretty eye-catching. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE 2A Hang Than. Pacific Place. Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub. Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group. Tel: (04) 3972 8922 vuvuzela. but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. facebook. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor. and despite its Old Quarter dive status. This late-night bar has been going for years. Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar. Five star prices. A popular West Lake go-to joint. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. The venue is hip. mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall. mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. LinkHanoi. Tay Ho Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu. DJ nights and general atmosphere. Check out their grill fare. LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 73 Mai Hac De. check their website. Hai Ba Trung. MADAKE BAR & EVENT SPACE 81 Xuan Dieu. engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this well-known and well-loved space. top-shelf experience. Tel: (04) 3972 5088 34C Cao Ba Quat. 56 Ly Thai To. CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI 15/50 Quang Khanh. BARBETTA ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh. Ba Dinh. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien. Oh. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc A wine bar with a difference. ROCKSTORE CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR EDEN HANOI LE SOLEIL & PAOLO AND CHI DIVE BAR LIVE MUSIC BAR facebook. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere. it still packs in the drinkers. this is a must for a more Vietnamese. Tel: (04) 3946 1901 therooftop. For a full list of Hanoi Located close to the Opera House. 61 Ma May. quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers. this alternative. deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city. this warm. a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends.hanoi Has a Hoan Kiem. Has a creative comfort food menu. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Hoan When it comes to outdoor parties. tartines and salads. ARTSY BAR & CAFE nearby favorites. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An. arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside. DJ booths and dance areas. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. excellent breakfasts. pleasant vibes. It does. 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu. LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 1A Tang Bat facebook. Tel: 01633 166170 facebook. Tel: 0915 663993 A self-style dive bar and live music space with a distinct Gallic feel. the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection. Well worth a visit. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. It has balconies. this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Tel: (04) 3718 6377 DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE HOLE IN THE WALL 7 Ta Hien. black ceilings. Tay Ho. pool and live football matches.000 revellers packing in at the weekends. 83B Ly Thuong When Vuvuzela opened up. Hoan Kiem tadioto. homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. A great place for coffee. Tel: 0986 495211 The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Tay Ho facebook. cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. Hoan Kiem OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE Housed in a colonial building. no smoking and a midnight closing time. Tel: 0947 890333 +84 BAR 23 Ngo Van So. Now. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor. Check their Facebook page for details. the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat. Hoan Kiem. Tay ho. bare This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable. comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reli- sontinh. Tay Ho . this outdoor. drinking food and a DJ booth. Tay Ho. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. being Phuc Tan. daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. Also known for its creative Vietnamese 199D Nghi Tam. Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Tay Ho. there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating. Tasty. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches.Hanoi On the Town BARS. Tay Ho facebook. its ambient Asian-style décor. Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges. Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco. Amiable staff. big outdoor parties. DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. 51 Xuan Dieu. Tay Ho. A pleasant ambience and tasty cuisine add to the offerings at this popular. Ba Dinh. It’s just one of those places. Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap. Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. 12A Nguyen Huu Huan. 284 Nghi Tam. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. when it comes to design. Tel: 01653 336087 MAO’S RED LOUNGE 5 Bao Khanh. Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers. Hoan Kiem. or delivery from TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan. CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE Syrena Tower. stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. DJ bar is notorious for… well. garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. Hoan Kiem. PHUC TAN 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan. a foosball table. West Lake venue. Cheap beers. 25 Duong Ven Ho. this late night. food menu. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. RED RIVER TEA ROOM MUSIC & ARTS BAR CZECH MICROBREWERY SIDEWALK HANOI SPY BAR HOUSE OF SON TINH CAMA ATK HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS Hanoi's home-made.

This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy. 100A Xuan Dieu. unpretentious and unashamedly quirky. Hai Ba Trung. the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. Loaded with booths and a | August 2015 Word | 129 . Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien. Tay Ho. Unpretentious. Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine. a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches. 43 To Ngoc Van. western and pan-Asian mains. period tiles. and has an excellent top-floor This American-style chain cafe is a SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu. that you’re sitting in a European café. Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy. especially late at night. fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba. Italian coffee. funky decor and a full roster of regular live music With a kitsch. The food is all there. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu. all for a set price. this 1936-established. Hoan Kiem. 47A Ly Quoc Su. delivery is also available. A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van. 1 Trang Tien. Starting in Laos in 1996. Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY 28 Tong Duy Tan. 49 Hai Ba Trung. Hoan Kiem. a salad bar and an a la carte menu. the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant wordvietnam. Tel: 01238 670098 facebook. art and music. Hoan Kiem. Focusing on comfort food done well. muffins. Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious. Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook. Tay Ho. good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE 89 Trieu Viet Vuong. Simple and unpretentious. Open 24 hours. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich. events and attractive décor. Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean. all scoffed down in a traditional. Hoan Kiem. what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular. most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. With its LA coffee and office feel. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro. Tel: (04) 3938 2117 facebook.000 and other Italian delicacies. this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. food. Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock. home-grown cafes in Vietnam. when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma. offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos. Serves as community centre. They also do coffee. 22 Ly Quoc Su. young Vietnamese crowd. wine or freshly squeezed juice. it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. Open every day for lunch and dinner. it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state. endearing and old-fashioned. 1. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu. Ba Dinh Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior. airy atmosphere. too: breakfasts. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. soups. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.hanoi A contemporary. Fun. mindful thinking. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno. Hoan Kiem. Ba Dinh. Hanoi Towers. 32 Dien Bien Phu. HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long. They also offer wine pairings. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ 43 Yen Phu. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan. Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end. for a second. this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Tay Ho. 15 Truc Bach. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong. cakes. with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired. contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe. communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts. including juice and coffee or tea. Tay Ho. Ba Dinh. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu.000. this hole-inthe-wall. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion. Hai Ba Trung. MOC CAFE A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. Dang Thai. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa. talks. Quiet. the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. beer. Great cuisine. experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE 2nd Floor. the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands. 3 Ha. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. bare-brick walls. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai. YOLO FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE 32C Cao Ba Quat. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. whitewashed. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai. AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An. Tay Ho. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa. Tay Ho. slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Boasting an abundance of communal seating. Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. Opera House. Hai Ba Trung. ice cream. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi. Ba Dinh. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co. CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho. Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard. a continuous flow of exhibitions. Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection. Hoan Kiem. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An. Tel: (04) 3936 3228. intimate and simple. indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. Tay TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR ASAHI SUSHI AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110. Hoan cereals and bagels. Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva. Hoan Kiem. Middle-Eastern twist. as well as wine. M M M EAT AL FRESCO’S Villa With numerous locations around town. TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee. tapas. waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings. Vietnamese environment. Tay Ho congcaphe. Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running. Blackboards. the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Using 100 percent natural ingredients. 27 Nha Tho. too. Tel: (04) 3747 3388. three-floored space is simplicity at its finest.ported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture.

Steamed rice cakes. simmering noodle dishes. Dipping her ladle in a milky white batter. The winner of Round One was a shrimp paste lollipop on a piece of sugarcane (chao tom). Pick and Mix I started with beef grilled to order. sweet and smoky from the grill. from the dark wood furniture reminiscent of yesteryear to suspended silk lanterns in subdued hues. baskets and food stands at the lunch buffet. chilled delicacies and creative fusion desserts top bountiful carts.TOP EATS SPICES GARDEN S tepping into the dining room of Spices Garden. one is enveloped in Indochine elegance. unobtrusive and charming. a woman swirled it over a . And what an introduction it still is. The service mirrors the ambiance — thoughtful. simmering for hours in preparation. In an era before Vietnamese pho became universally known. Spices Garden was one of the first hotel restaurants to introduce foreign guests and dignitaries to Vietnamese cuisine. meat. I thoroughly enjoyed the steaming soups. the earthy bun thang. mushrooms. This is what I’m told by the silk ao dai-clad Nguyen Kim Nhung. the beef pho also stood out — unlike many an offering on the street it had a distinct aroma of cinnamon and star anise. a complex concoction with finely julienned egg. Perhaps the restaurant’s namesake? The banh cuon created in front of us was enchanting. and piping hot broth ladled over top. I also sampled a frog leg ‘drumstick’ and the signature Hanoi cha ca in my first of many rounds. vegetables and bun noodles. the restaurant manager. the Metropole Hotel’s Vietnamese restaurant. Imported from New Zealand. this tender steak is the finest beef I’ve tasted in Vietnam.

What Spices Garden offers transcends the food — it’s the experience. 15 Ngo Quyen. hours had passed. A perfect place for an extravagant treat — for Vietnamese and foreign visitors alike. layered cake with buttercream frosting topped with fresh raspberries. I stepped out into the noise and heat of the street to hail a cab.000).075. After removing the delicate crepe. young rice crème brulee and local fruits. still smiling. you won’t discover anything new.Photos by Julie Vola taut gauzy cloth suspended over steaming water. My cellphone began to buzz and I was transported back into the present. housemade pate and French baguettes. and you just might get a pair of personalised chopsticks kept in the case at the entrance. From there I travelled beyond the borders of Vietnam and delved into fusion and non-Vietnamese dishes — fresh sashimi and sushi. rolled it up and served it to us with a dipping sauce. The fresh. she filled it with a mixture of pork and mushroom.000 per person (Monday to Friday it’s VND760. Yet for those of you who know your way around street food stands and the language. Finally the desserts. moist chocolate cake smothered in an equally rich sauce. Weekend lunch buffet costs VND1. Dishes are also available from the a la carte menu. paper-thin and tender banh cuon were unlike any others I’ve tasted in Hanoi. — Jill Kester Spices Garden is at the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hanoi. Hanoi wordvietnam. Become a regular | August 2015 Word | 131 . The chef stopped by our table to offer us a cup of green tea made with fresh leaves. it was perhaps no surprise. Made with top-notch ingredients. Something New? The experience at Spices Garden is not for the budget conscious. Before I knew it. Reluctantly leaving my urban oasis. Hoan Kiem.

Secondly. I have found that the “condition” of the marriage or how well the couple is relating is the most important determiner of what is OK or You are responsible for your feelings. Some cultures are much less open to that kind of friendship and would deem it inappropriate for a married woman or man to have a close friend of the opposite gender. He is a teacher. There is no right or wrong. Often it is after a couple has children and roles change that intimacy. In some cultures it is very common for people to maintain crossgender friendships of old and new friends. even when a person is married. Often the involvement of another. My husband and I have two young children and have been living in Hanoi for four years. I agree with taking some time to decide what to say and when to say it. Am I paranoid? What can I do? —Lizzy Dear Lizzy. Personal details will not be printed . it may be setting off red flags for you. Letting him know how you feel rather than attacking him is more likely to find a result that will improve the situation and bring more understanding to both of you. he was most upset that I looked in his phone and told me it was all very innocent friendly chatting. He also referred to me as “S”. sex and emotional closeness tend to wane. and feel secure in the trust they have in one another. The first one is something you have not written about in your letter… the current 132 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. but I have to know the truth of what is going on. Four months ago I discovered he has been writing text messages to a female Vietnamese worker at the school who is part of the office staff. Men and women are less threatened and fearful when they feel a strong connection. — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.THE THERAPIST This month Douglas Holwerda. So the first question is: how are the two of you doing in your relationship? The second part is about relationships married people have with friends and colleagues. When I confronted him. first assess your feelings about your relationship and be prepared to speak honestly about it. If you are relating and connecting you will be able to navigate a way for both of you to be true to yourselves. I am very confused and don’t know what to do. innocent or not. the first letter of my name. All long-term relationships go through ups and downs. they feel openness and honesty. American trained and licensed mental health counsellor. But. and you may have to decide what is OK with you when you feel like your husband is getting too close to another woman. This upset me and now I am waiting for the right time to talk to him again. but decided to let it go. I wasn’t really convinced. So. I found an unfinished email that he left open that was addressed to her and was saying how he would “miss her” while we were gone. If you are feeling distant from your husband and he is seemingly interested in another woman. but he needs to know how you feel. a week before school ended and we were to go back to England. Enjoy your summer vacation. advises readers how to handle a spouse who is developing a relationship with someone else Dear Douglas. is really pointing to something that is happening inside the way you feel about how your husband and you are relating to one another. thinking maybe I was over-reacting. There are two aspects to what you may want to consider. be prepared to speak about how you are challenged by his communication with another woman and specifically what you feel when he refers to you by an initial rather than your whole name. I don’t want to ruin our summer plans.

com An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. 99 Xuan Dieu. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also On entering La Badiane. Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running. Hoan Kiem. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. salads and fish. as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food. Hoan Kiem. LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu. Tel: (04) 3824 7280. 15 Ngo Quyen. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant.F. Ba Dinh. May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. 25 Bat Su. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music. 575 Kim Like a phoenix rising from the ashes. soups. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach. Ba Dinh. Tel: (04) 3942 4509 labadiane-hanoi. the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. Hoan Kiem.000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. and predominantly white walls. LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup. dim sum menus and set menus. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung. an extensive wine list and slick service. Reservations recommended. Wrap it yourself nem.Hanoi On the Town again and again. Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available. you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi. Tel: (04) 3823 7338 lunadautunno. INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra. J. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Hai Ba Trung. Tay Ho. Known for its good. HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu. Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors. Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Set inside a large. spinach and ricotta ravioli. Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.A. an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Hai Ba Trung. this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar. Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint. Dong Da. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. The beverages are not the cheapest. chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. Then. Tay Ho. which range from VND100. subtle lighting. Koto burgers. Tel: (04) 3926 0639. so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho. Great selection of sandwiches. cold cut boards. Closed Mondays. the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala. great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. surrounded by leaf plants. May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus. LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu. as well as full courses such as veal. ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien. Catalanstyle Recently contemporary ambience. Tapas are available. Ba Dinh. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be.A. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space.A. and duck with currant The restaurant arm of Koto. Tel: (04) 5 Bui Thi Xuan. tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics. this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 3718 6991 A leafy. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So. blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles. Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta. 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor). bun bo Nam MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. Hoan Kiem. Me Tri. Europeanstyle coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. soups and cheeses. the resultant fare has had customers coming back HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre. 8 Do Duc Duc. a focus on Situated in an art-deco villa. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia. Tel: (04) 3716 2959 foodshop45. carajillos and sangria. J. 6B Lang Ha. Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor. Try out their catfish spring rolls. with of course. Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn. tasty food and large portions.A. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Elegant and luxurious. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. Tel: (04) 3995 0950 lasalsa-hanoi. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers. korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. comfortable and has a rooftop terrace. 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup. low. MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. but this is made up for by service and ambiance. FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3926 4200. this wonderful restaurant is your typical. Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc. Tu A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tay Ho. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong. Has an extensive wine list. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. fish and chips. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine. pastas. Has three floors all with different With unique decor. too. Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi. this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. dopiaza. It’s cushioned. thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu. Hoan Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum. Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto. the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service. Hoan Kiem. Also known for its moreish. . EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space.F. this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. Tinto de With venues in Saigon and Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere. Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3944 6317 Lakeside location and low bamboo seating.

and the cost is US$25 (VND545. On Tuesday the main is a pasta dish.7 million net per adult (including a freeflow of wine. Nga on H3553-FB1@sofitel. beer. Hanoi Mocktails @ Green Tangerine greentangerinehanoi. Hanoi Freelancer Promotion @ Manzi facebook. the deal includes salad. bookings are for a minimum of 10 and a maximum of 20 per class.FOOD PROMOS HANOI Want to learn how to make mooncakes? Get yourself down to the Sofitel Plaza masterclass Lunch Combos @ La Bicicleta facebook. Ming Restaurant. the Old Quarter-based FrenchVietnamese fusion restaurant. Green Tangerine. the property has put on a number of pretty amazing promotions. Taught by chefs at their Chinese is running a September.000 and get a working table. Prices are From Aug. Could you turn 17 every month. too — VND1. the restaurant will offer a ‘flute’ of one of its signature mocktails. The dinner version adds steak and free-flow sake to the mix and costs Hanoi’s favourite (read ONLY) Spanish restaurant is running a daily lunch combo from Tuesday to Friday between midday and 2pm. Tiger draught and soft drinks).11 million net per adult (excluding beverage) or VND1. The promotion runs daily from The Nikko is turning 17 this month.000) per person. nine live cooking stations and six types of cuisine are there to cater for your gluttonous Become a Manzian for a day for just VND90.000. You know you want to! For more information email Ms. on Wednesday it’s vegetarian.30am to 5pm — just ask Manzi’s staff prior to ordering your first drink. Our favourite is at La Brasserie where the lunchtime seafood buffet with lobster is going for just Lobster Buffet @ Nikko Hotel hotelnikkohanoi. Costing just VND95. tapas. Mooncake Masterclass @ Sofitel Plaza Hanoi sofitel. La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Hit up the InterCon for an epicurean feast every Sunday at Café du Lac. dessert and soft drink. For every set lunch ordered. please? . Hoan Kiem. 1 through to the end of 134 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. and in appreciation of their customers over the last two decades. Ba Dinh. With a Sunday Brunch serving up dishes ranging from classic Vietnamese to contemporary international. Green Tangerine is at 48 Hang Be. and free WiFi. your staff want to learn how to make mooncakes.000++. on Thursday’s it’s a seafood paella and on Friday it’s described quite simply as ‘meat’. soft drinks and Martini). Tay Ho. You can also pop in and out whenever you want. That is exactly what the Sofitel Plaza have in mind with their mooncake masterclass. a daily-changing main course. freeflow tea and coffee all So you want to learn how to make mooncakes? Or even better.000++ (includes free-flow wine. Hanoi Westlake Sunday Brunch @ InterCon Westlake intercontinental.

Clever changing imagery on the walls. quiches. 1 Thanh Nien. bamboo tabled. energetic and beautifully designed. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees. and healthy. Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO 67 Hang Dieu. Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs. Tay Ho STICKY RICE 44 Hang Hom. The delivery service is quick and reliable. which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk. Tay Ho 5 Phu Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House. 19-21 Hai Ba Trung. muffins and cakes. But it’s the twist on old world favourites. Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON XOI HANG HOM BANH DA TRON 6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu. Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 48 Hang Dong. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL The American Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. MIEN TRON HANH thecartfood. this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community. two private dining rooms. Hoan Kiem. Nghi Tam Village. Hoan Kiem. The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA 7 Nam Ngu.000 and everything is there. and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes. NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Hoan PHO CUON HUNG BEN 18 Dien Bien Phu. homemade juices. Au Co. PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor. Tel: (04) 3933 4801 BOULANGERIE / BISTRO Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera pies. Hoan Kiem. nineteen11. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO 49 Bat Dan. Tel: (04) 3826 9080 facebook. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier. but not as you know it. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe. this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance. 47 Ma May. poutine and burgers. Hoan Kiem. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN SAINT HONORE The Opera House. Press Club boasts a bar There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent. Vietnamese fusion The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown. think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo. oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can Wooden flooring.000 and VND300. Hoan Kiem . MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May. a library and a vast selection of cigars. Hoan Kiem. Dong Da MIXED GLASS NOODLES 7B Ly Quoc Su. this semi-outdoor. all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. 24 Hai Ba Trung. casual. Renowned for the highly rated. including a wine room. Hoan Kiem 23 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. Lane 1. 6 Luong Van Can. Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.Hanoi On the Town MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza. like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings. Hueinfluenced cuisine. Ba Dinh. croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES 54 Hang Chieu. Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO 10 Ly Quoc Su. this unique fine dining Hoan Kiem. luxury and mystery. Best known for their Scotch egg. American-style sides. 67 Duong The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll. Set in the American Club. Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO 13 Lo Duc. Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) 8B. Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh. Tay Ho. In a sentence? Curry. bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Tel: (04) 3747 8337 hanoixua. a meal will cost you between VND150. Hoan Kiem thekafe. Tay Ho. Huge wine lists. Hoan Kiem. Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore. Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan. Tel: (04) 3935 2400 OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep. laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. fresh-cooked aroma of bread. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi. paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary. 59A Ly Thai To. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. M M M STREETFOOD 1 Hang Dieu. dining is both indoors and THE KAFE 57 Quoc Tu Giam. Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO 18 Dang Thai Mai. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can. Hoan Kiem. all in an elegant atmosphere STREETSIDE BANH MI 25 Hang Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO. Hanoi. Tay Ho. PHO CUON 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ potsnpans. Tel: (04) 3944 0204 BANH MI 25 WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. Tel: (04) 3939 2470 mooseandroo. Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem. Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. friendly staff and a loveable owner. fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. POTS ‘N PANS 5 Xuan Dieu. Tel: (04) 3747 6245 Spacious. on-site smoked meats together with all the typical. Tel: (04) 3938 2513 COM RANG DUA BO Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu. Hai Ba Trung. 2 Hang Hom. Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK 20A Hoe Nhai. This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade. a private chef’s table with a kitchen view. Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA PHO TU LUN 3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM BANH CUON PHO BO 14 Hang Ga. Trang Tien Plaza. 1 Trang Tien.

9ºC) or higher. call his or her doctor. Call the doctor if your BY DR. The level depends on how you take the temperature : — Rectal temperature above 100. such as laryngotracheitis or bronchiolitis — A stomach or tummy bug — A urinary infection (bacteria). If you do not know how best to handle your child’s fever. Some parents give their children baths to cool them down.2ºC) — Ear temperature above 100. — Between three and 36 months and has a rectal temperature of 100. But these medicines are not always necessary. — A seizure caused by a fever.8ºC) — Armpit temperature above 99ºF (37.4ºF (38ºC) in rectal mode or 99. 136 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. organ transplant. — Encourage your child to rest as much as he or she wants.4ºF (38ºC) — Oral (mouth) temperature above 100ºF (37. If you think your child has a fever. But antibiotics work only on infections caused by bacteria. PHILIPPE COLLIN child won’t or can’t drink fluids for more than a few hours. — A fever in addition to an ongoing medical problem.5ºF (37. see a doctor. Children can get a fever if they have: — A cold or the flu — An airway infection. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi). ear. such as heart disease. etc. — A fever as well as a new skin rash. Aspirin can cause a dangerous condition called Reye syndrome. What is the Best Way to Take my Child’s Temperature? The most accurate way is to take a rectal temperature. or forehead temperature of 104ºF (40ºC) or higher. or sickle cell or thalassemia anemia. click on vietnammedicalpractice. — Any age and has a rectal temperature of 102ºF (38. paracetamol (sample brand name: Tylenol. How Can I help My Child Feel Better? You can… — Offer your child lots of fluids to drink. or refuses to drink fluids. keep them hydrated. and forehead temperatures are not as accurate as rectal or oral temperatures.MEDICAL BUFF FEVER. . Your infant should see a doctor even if he or she looks normal or seems fine. (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 358 2699 (Da Nang). but that is not usually necessary. cancer. ear. NEVER give aspirin to a child younger than 18 years old. such as acetaminophen. Oral temperatures are also reliable when done in children who are at least four years old.4ºF (38ºC) or higher for more than three days. children get a fever after receiving a vaccine. Dr. and he or she seems sick. Alternatively. Should I Take My Child to See a Doctor? You should take your child to a doctor if he or she is: — Younger than three months and has a rectal temperature of 100. — Medicines.4ºF (38ºC) or In some cases. Children of any age should also see a doctor if they have: — Oral. But don’t force them. clingy. FEVER What is a Fever? A fever is a rise in body temperature that goes above a certain level. — Fevers that keep coming back (even if they last only a few hours). Those who do might need: — Antibiotics to fight the infection causing the fever. rectal. Philippe Collin is a paediatrician at Family Medical Practice in Hanoi. Many children do not need treatment. Armpit. How are Fevers Treated? That depends on what is causing the fever. Go right away if your child seems sick or is fussy.5ºC) in oral mode The height of the temperature is less important than how sick your child seems to you. — Your child can go back to school or regular activities after he or she has had a normal temperature for 24 hours. Efferalgan) or ibuprofen (sample brand names: Advil) can help bring down a fever. What Causes Fever? The most common cause of fever in children is viral infections.

your soul wordvietnam. swim harder. an aspiring psychologist. reinforces the concept that the one who should be held as an example is the one who does not seek power. The novel is set in South Africa in the 1930s and 40s and follows an underdog’s attempts to gain recognition when dignity is usurped by the fear and coercion of apartheid-supporting bullies. 14-year-old daughter of a country butcher in pre-war coastal Sussex. Characters from the book remain as inspirational icons in your mind. It is written in four books with the second making your spirits soar. eschewing fame and fortune. the cottony haired. The most often quoted is: ‘first with the head and then with the heart. and to concentrate instrad on Enid Bagnold’s inventive fairytale that was up to its ears in rain. Our cyclist instructs us to evaporate any visions of young and beautiful Elizabeth Taylor playing Miss Brown in the tear jerking movie National Velvet. male hero. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi. To the reader it appears that everyone was intent on knocking the hell out of each other in a game that changed rules each time it was played. The Power of One by Bryce Courtenay has one of the most incredible. the young. and our basketballer’s favorite is: ‘besides love. fictional protagonists she’s ever come across. or box better. is also interested in struggles for power that exist among any group of people. She says that it completely omitted the author’s belief that: “the power of one is above all things — the power to believe in yourself. When Tom Brown was sent off to the school as an adolescent. The novel was made into an underwhelming movie that made our basketballer want to throw tomatoes at the screen. He acknowledges that in every collection of humans who must coexist at close quarters there will be some order that emerges or that is imposed — for good or for bad. As Velvet insisted. when up to 200 players tried to get possession of a small leather ball that they’d attempt to carry to a specified area of a pitch several acres in size. independence is the greatest gift an adult can give a child’. The novel contains scores of maxims that any person seriously concerned with ethical self-development will adopt. you’ll be ahead from the start’. it was Pie who won the race. turn off into a quiet country road and cogitate. not her. kick better. apart from rugby. Our reader also used the novel as a beginning point of his PhD research into the very British assertion that athletic games and the moral values they are presumed to instil are goals in their own right. torture and torment under Flashman (one of literature’s enduring soldiers of fortune and greed). shoot straighter. His pondering upon the question we gave him resulted in Velvet Brown. the body is simply the means it uses to run faster or longer. A GRAND HORSE RACE A cyclist enters the fray and tells us that when the view of the shiny lycra bums of his weekend cycling pack becomes too intense he likes to slow down. he took part in the free for all that the game then was. The idea of fighting for the greater good and of perseverance in the face of seeming insurmountable hardships was enlightening for her. the aspect that first caught his eye was the tug of war between good and evil in a boarding school where the eldest students made up the rules. bucktoothed. muck and a bit of pain.” ROUGH AND TUMBLE Ostensibly our avid rugby player reader chose Thomas Hughes’ 1857 novel Tom Brown’s Schooldays because it is set in the British boarding school that gave the game its name. Peekay. The mind is the athlete. Our avid rugby playing reader.BOOK BUFF REMEMBER WATERLOO! This month Truong at Bookworm channels your inner Sporty Spice with reading recommendations from three sports enthusiasts living in Hanoi The Power of One A basketball player who makes us all feel height challenged whenever she enters our shop said that although her novel of choice had boxing as a sub-theme. Order is restored when Tom and his friends become school leaders. Thus. and because it describes the genesis of the game played today. often well beyond any latent ability you may have previously demonstrated. Our cogitator likes to imagine that his comfortably brought up little daughters will have the imagination and the courage of plain Miss Brown — to grow up and win recognition — but then have the maturity not to bask for long in its | August 2015 Word | 137 . jump higher. It’s a hard task in today’s selfie obsessed world. In Tom’s time at the school the hierarchy changed from being ethically motivated under the Brooke brothers’ paternal influence to a place of bullying. hit further. and was more about the vagaries of family relationships than of a winsome lass winning the Grand National Steeplechase on a piebald horse called Pie that she’d won in a raffle. and that manliness is intimately associated with athleticism. white. and choral music swell from the pages into your imagination.

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Ho Chi Minh City Business Buff / Body and Temple / Amazing Grapes / A world of Good / Coffee Cup / Bar Stool / Top Eats / The Empty Wok Photo by Francis Xavier 140 | Word August 2015 | .

Accessories. Tel: (08) 3521 8755. Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery. sweet pastries. Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam. Food Court VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi. health–conscious breads and more. Q1 phamngulao. Electronics. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try. the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Q1. Q1. Accessories. amchamvietnam. thought. Q7 breadtalkvietnam. Q1. Q3. Tel: (08) 3824 3562. Established in 1996. Q3. cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs. Café. Has a good selection of ESL texts. Has an excellent home delivery service. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh. croissants. Although there are some English-language texts in this modern. French-styled with an Asian touch. Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa. M M M VOELKER BAKERY 39 Thao Dien. Worth checking out. Food Court HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong. Q1. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon. Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin. Lotte Mart. 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. GINKGO SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305. Accessories. Q3. Check the website for details. Café. Eximland Building. meat–filled pastries. Online ordering available. Tel: (08) 3824 3754 Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month. 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Q1. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies. muffins. Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2. well laid out bookstore. breads.HCMC Essentials BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ 223 Pham Ngu Lao. 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear. Tel: (08) 6270 5928 M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Dubbed “the local bakery”. Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn. Q1. Food Court PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3914 7858 facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.30am to 10pm Cosmetics. Clothing. 59 Tran Hung Dao. Binh Thanh. in 2004 they opened in the US. M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 40 Nguyen Hue. Tel: (08) 3836 1992 Quality. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics. Clothing. Q1 pnc. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag. 60-62 Le AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor. muffins. Perfume. Le Van Thiem. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. Food Court SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi. Clothing. Clothing. cakes. Perfume. Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham. Petroland Tower. 2 Cao Thang. Electronics. Perfume. Q7. Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9. Perfume. 76 Le Lai. 54-56 Bui Vien. NORDCHAM 17th SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor. pendant scarves and cushion covers. this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. local telecom ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai.30am to 10pm Baguettes. Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm. Accessories. Perfume. A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. donuts and Monday to Sunday. Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics. Café. Q1. Electronics. 57 Le Thi Hong. 76 Le Lai. Q1 touslesjoursbakery. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 2A Le Duan. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale. Café. 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam. Q1. Q1. Café. Perfume. Food Court .com. 35-45 Le Thanh Ton. With a production facility in Thu Duc.abcbakery. cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries. Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi. Tran Quy Building. CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE 117 Cong Quynh. Q2. Perfume. for the occasional gem. Q1. Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Unit Open to all BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan. the focus here is on all things BLUE DRAGON SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan. original. 2nd Floor Parkson Center. the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du. quiches and pies in town. Clothing. Clothing. Electronics. 469 Nguyen Huu TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE 180 Hai Ba Trung. Accessories. Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery. Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes. 179EF Cach Mang Thang PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh. Q1. Q3. Vivo City. airy atmosphere. Electronics. Electronics VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton. New World Hotel. Q1. Food Court SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien. Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn. Q1 fahasa. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY harvestbaking. Q1. Q1. Clothing. 17/14 Le Thanh Ton. toys and a range of related products. Café. Q1. Q5. Q7. 12 Tan Trao. Has eight locations and counting. Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade. covering for all ages and tastes. Q7. Accessories.

as well as the requisite dedicated personal chauffeur and chef. For a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the South Pole.200 (VND36. sign up for a tour to Whichaway Camp in Antarctica. Shane is ready for another holiday.790 (VND23. where your expedition will begin.000 (VND1. guests of this restored ghost town can enjoy the thermal waters. Spot white rhinos by helicopter in Kenya. from US$55. The sandbar picnics. Exclusive hire of Dunton Hot Springs costs from US$147. see polar bears in the Arctic and track down giant tortoises in the Galapagos Islands. A 28-day tour costs from US$108. From US$71. unique experiences? Look right this way. secluded beach houses and the chance to play billiards on Houdini’s old table might just make it worth it. with real-estate prices for these traditional alpine homes regularly reaching 142 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. He etched his name into the bar for posterity.4 billion) a person.2 billion) per booking is donated to a conservation fund.BUSINESS BUFF THE MOST EXPENSIVE HOLIDAYS IN THE WORLD BY SHANE DILLON A nine-day trip to Whichaway Camp in Antarctica is one of the most expensive holidays in the world 2 015 is flying past and I am just back from annual leave. it wasn’t too bad. The Year at Aman package costs from US$286. And while any holiday with the family in Australia is never cheap. but guests can tailor their trip.4 billion). Seven nights. The trip includes three nights at every palace. but it’s also eco-friendly: the estate refuses to import meat and produce. but let’s break it down: the Journey to Nature’s Edge by Natural World Safaris lasts 111 days in total.500 (VND2. There are 31 hotels in total. via the Sydney Opera House and Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. Chalet Lottie has its own cinema and sauna. It even bottles its own mineral water.670. Chalet N in Austria’s Oberlech has all that and even more. This year the family and I headed back home to Australia and for the first time in many years.3 billion) a week exclusive hire for up to 72 guests. He can be contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross. choosing instead to rear and grow its own.23 billion) a person. So if you want to spend longer looking at temples in Bhutan or within Sri Lanka’s Galle Fort. fit-for-royalty estates: the Lake Palace in Udaipur. offers a chance to see 18 of the world’s most vulnerable species and US$100. Most ski towns are no strangers to super chalets. available for loan for eyewatering nightly rates. The price may seem staggering. Ampersand Travel is offering those with the funds the chance to reign over three of India’s most fabled. Butch Cassidy once rolled into the mining town of Dunton Hot Springs. a luxury retreat in Fiji accessible only by private plane.5 billion) a person for nine days. After putting this together.000 (VND8. with exclusive use of each.000 (VND3. As well as checking out the famous former patron’s signature.8 billion) exclusive hire for 12 guests. covers 12 countries. The Aman Group owns some of the most decadent hotels in the world and it doesn’t get more lavish than spending a year sleeping at all of them.068. The magnate who owns Red Bull is also behind Laucala. So it’s no surprise that renting them for just a week can cost a lot. not an issue. from about US$402. original saloon and stand-alone wood cabins.000 (VND6. then be guided by expert polar explorers across the world’s southernmost continent. a string of islands in the Bahamas. The itinerary will take in all of the iconic major sights. meaning around 12 nights at the several-million mark.2 billion) a week. The King of the Castle package costs from US$1. Hop on and off a private jet as a pilot navigates you around the world in 28 days. Fly to Cape Town. So why not this month look at the holidays you could take if money was no object? First class. search for tigers in India. during November and December. It may be exclusive (for those who have just shy of US$154. In Gstaad. The camp only has six sleeping pods and the trip runs just three times a .000 (VND1. Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur and Rambagh Palace in Jaipur.000 (VND2. from Machu Picchu in Peru to Easter Island’s unforgettable stone statues. From US$1.000 or VND3. The currency exchange worked in our favour and it wasn’t the obscene black hole of expense as in years gone by. The magician David Copperfield is the owner of Musha Cay.2 billion) a week and sleeps 44. in a valley just across a mountain from Telluride in Colorado.4 billion a night going spare).

Siddharta-style CHINA AIRLINES LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor. L’USINE CATHAY PACIFIC T&V TAILOR TAILORS 39 Dong Du.3. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 3827 5267 OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh. 26 Ly Tu The Overland Club organises pottery This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competi- wordvietnam. 151 Dong Khoi. elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Q1. CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. sofas and curtains. Lifestyle accessories include shoes. such as the Soba Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa JAPAN AIRLINES vn. Q1. Q1 MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways. TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima. This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro VESPA SHOP TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair. stationery and a range of vintage AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang papaya-tshirt. Q1. MANDARINA JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar. magazines. Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors. Tel: (08) 6674 9565 Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai. DVDs. 4th Floor. CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway. Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45.Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon. Respro face masks. posters and M M M KOREAN AIR koreanair. Tel: (08) 3822 3277. cultural art events and monthly special activities. Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse. includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the 163 Nguyen Thai ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien.jal. Italian | August 2015 Word | 143 . pottery painting classes. VietnameseJapanese cooking classes. so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Q2. knickknacks. riding gear. conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese Exclusive labels. Rental scooters and bikes available. Dist. Q1. Q1. VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy. LAO AIRLINES AIRLINES LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING AIR ASIA airasia. Tel: (08) 3932 6455.wires and motorbikes to creative. An Phu. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for Q1. Q1. the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine AIR FRANCE airfrance. M M M COOKING CLASSES IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong VIETNAM AIRLINES U. Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona. Tel: (08) 3840 3946 atc-craft. Binh Thanh. 30A Nguyen Huu Canh. Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old. Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub. 37 Thao Dien. 71 Pasteur. VIETJETAIR vietjetair. All products are samples. HCMC. The threehour lesson. Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair. Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien. books. Q2. Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass. Q1.

BODY AND TEMPLE PERFORMANCE NUTRITION TIPS D on’t diet — it simply doesn’t work. Both mental and physical stresses deplete vitamin stores. With added stress your body needs extra B vitamins to repair and reenergise. the worlds leading strength and conditioning coach. Dehydration is another major concern when attempting performance and fat loss goals. Obtaining results is all down to how your body can recover from the stress of exercise. because it is a significant indicator of athletic ability. caffeine is the most effective legal performanceenhancing substance available. combating stress is the major key to achieving gains. try never to take it when anxious or after a workout. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. or simply require a boost. By exercising you effectively create an inflamed state. Coffee does possess health benefits. but for maximum 144 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. particularly vitamin B5. take 4g of high quality fish oil. To boost post-workout gains by improving protein synthesis and reducing inflammation. BY PHIL KELLY to reduce and manage your cortisol levels (stress) to maximise results by taking vitamin C post-workout or anytime you’re stressed. grass-fed animal products. which fosters a loss of motivation. Instead. Testosterone levels are affected by sleep. Stress (or cortisol) also has major negative impacts when striving for improved performance and fat loss. so your pre and post workout needs to focus on reducing inflammation to boost recovery and growth. consuming fish oil and avoiding vegetable oils. frustration and finally giving up on their health. where as omega-6 promotes inflammation. I also recommend additional anti-oxidants to help fight free-radical development and help repair cell or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. Aim to drink 800mls per 23kg of body weight. However. Performance-wise. The faster your body can recover the faster you will see results. performance or fat loss efforts. 3) Manage Hormones Hormones control every function your body has and therefore every action you engage in elicits a hormonal response. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems. Inadequate water consumption will raise cortisol levels considerably. making small changes to what you consume can equate to big gains when it comes to getting the most out of your training and exercise efforts. vitamin D3. due to it’s effect on cortisol. 2) Use Caffeine Wisely There are a number of articles and research studies touting the health benefits of coffee. particularly testosterone. Here are four key nutrition tips that could boost your results from ordinary to extra-ordinary: 1) Focus on Reducing Inflammation Exercise stresses your energy systems and damages muscle and connective tissue. Your body improves and grows only when you recover. A lot of people I see working hard achieve slow results. Aim to balance omega-3 to omega-6 by eating fish. There are many aspects to recovery and these are a mere few to point you in the right direction. Aim 4) Take a Multi-Vitamin Again. performance and fat loss paybacks you need to be aware of how caffeine personally effects you and the best times to consume it. zinc and magnesium levels. Higher resting T means you’ll get more out of workouts to induce greater muscle gains”. By performing smart actions you can maximise your hormone responses to optimise performance and fat loss . Take an espresso shot before training anytime you feel unmotivated. You need to have adequate amounts of these while minimising alcohol consumption and exposure to estrogens or estrogen-promoting substances. Omega-3 is a great anti-inflammatory. Charles Poliquin. suggests that the aim is to “optimise baseline levels of hormones.

Also stocks GT and for more details. Q2. Jett. Q7. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. 8am to 9. Accessories are found on the level above. THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy. 168 Vo Thi Sau. while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers. 65 Le Loi. NGUYEN FRERES THE BIKE SHOP MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke. Tel: (08) 3829 4408 M M M CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM firstBIKE. the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets. Tel: (08) 5410 3114 xedapcaocap. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi. Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang. Q1. Q2. Organises regular cycle Specialising in Trek and The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. shelves and kitchen cabinets. The showroom home of Jett Cycles. Q2. Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco. Tel: (08) 3821 6115 nhaxinh. 68 Le Loi. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. Q1. Tel: (08) 3744 6405 thebikeshopvn. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu. Thao Dien. as well as the full selection of accessories. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets. OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM jett-cycles. Q1. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2) Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. EM EM SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi. Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. Q1. Thao Dien. with the full range of accessories in between. Q3 FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien. Orthodontics is also available. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product. does repairs and rentals. Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent. GT and Aluboo. Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping. 39 Le NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor. Check CYCLING & ACCESSORIES 250 Nguyen Van Huong. and support proper balance development. M M M DENTAL CLINICS REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st | August 2015 Word | 145 . Q3. Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.HCMC Essentials tive prices. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale. Q1.30pm JETT CYCLES FEELING TROPIC 384 Tran ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza. this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Q3. Saigon Centre. com.

So now when I see a wine label stating that it was produced by organic or biodynamic methods. (which the majority of these wines were). but when it comes to wine I am quite conservative.AMAZING GRAPES In the first of a series of new columns on wine. I want my food to be as free of additives as possible. pesticides. The problem for me was that what constituted ‘certified organic’ was not clear and varied from country to country. Of course it makes sense — wine is made from grapes that reflect their growing season and conditions. although very few make their way to Vietnam. of course. They had just begun the process of converting all of their estates to biodynamic farming. Lubu . I like my styles to be classic and my varietals correct. and had more intense colour and greater length of flavour. For me it was just another marketing ploy. The extra step of biodynamic viticulture seemed to me to be a fad. He is presently man-at-the-helm at his District 2 restaurant. Change of Heart The first time I began to question my own cynical belief was when I tasted the full range of Maison Champy in 2012. something for sea changers who were only really acting out their dream of bonding with nature. I am not into funky packaging or weird and wonderful blends of this or that. and while you can make good wines from average grapes. Now don’t get me wrong. You could say I am a ‘no nonsense’ wine on: burying manure filled cows horns in the vineyard? Harvesting by the moon? It seemed like hocus pocus. it’s a great wine for amazing value and seems to handle anything you can throw at it. a way to off load inferior plonk. I guess it was the abysmal quality of these early organic wines that was the thorn in my side. right? It all happens in the vineyard. The biodynamic vineyards had purer fruit expression. Jim Cawood has been working in the wine industry for over two decades. no guarantee of quality. Jim Cawood An organic vineyard in the US I am generally open-minded about most things. think earthy shiraz). Connoisseur’s Choice 2008 Alveirão ‘Encostas Do Vale Godinho’. Tejo Tomar Portugal produces so much more than just Port wine. If they are nurtured and supplied with organic nutrition it can only be good. this is a great example of the individuality that biodynamics can add to a wine’s character. The difference in the wine from their vineyards that had already been converted to biodynamic farming methods to those that had not was remarkable. When wines labeled ‘organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ first became commercially available about 10 years ago. D. it is now fully mature. trying to escape the modern world. I mean. The way of the future is deeply rooted in our pagan past and it is here to stay. I am all for organic produce and I am anti-GM food technology. It was quite eye opening and I was forced to eat my words. take a sip of biodynamic wines with sommelier and wine guru. For me. I no longer turn up my nose. but from what I have tasted recently it is beginning to become one. etc. Made from 100 percent Castelão. Packed full of plush plum fruit with an enticing gaminess and a spicy finish. Champy is one of Burgundy’s oldest producers. come 146 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. but in no way over the hill.C. It is. my reaction was one of disdain. only great grapes will yield something truly extraordinary. (a native variety to Portugal.

Q1.3. Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT CLINIC DENTAL INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. In operation since 02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te. modern clinic with French. Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery. imported beers and wines. Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. 27 Nguyen Trung Truc. lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions. Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational. CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. Q2. Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice. Dist. Binh Thanh. Q2. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi. the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. HCM City (Ho Con Rua . Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street).Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22 MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.Tel: 39 29 09 09 San Art is an independent. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks. the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam. Sells prints of the originals and related products. 17.starlightdental.201 istry by Vietnam Economic Times 0 1 ” 20 Starlight An Phu Starlight City Center 24 Thao Dien. Dist. and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Tel: (08) 6294 7059 san-art. this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Tel: (08) 3822 Specialising in healthcare. HCM City . Canadian. 71-79 Dong Khoi. Q1. Q1. Q1. Q3. am Award for “Excellence in 4 Vietn Dent . lectures and publications. Level 1. WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic. Q1. Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh. Tel: (08) 3822 6222 Located in a quiet corner of District 1. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists Ope nin g 015 An Phu Summer 2 GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham. dental services and chiropractic medicine. Dr. M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung. HCMC starlightdental@gmail. Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable www.Q2 starlightdental.1.10. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam. Q1. Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods. artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists. Has regular wordvietnam. Q1. M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat. Thao Dien. 41A Thao Long–established.1 DENTAL CLINIC 51 Ba Thang Hai Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods. HCM City . organic fruit and vegetables. Q7 (across from FV Hospital).com | August 2015 Word | 147 . SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh. Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet. Tel: (08) 3829 4441 The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven. Dist.HCMC Essentials MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang. HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh. Q1 dogmacollection. Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare.Tel: 39 25 33 99 NO. DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology.

com OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. live seafood and vegetables. this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts. neck and knee pain. paediatrics and acupuncture. PHUONG HA GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi. hairwashing to nails. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2. Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar. if you so wish. vegetables. richard. spices and a wide selection of dairy products. Q1. as well as steam-sauna. Tan SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball. LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails. CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu. Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure. Q3. they also stock imported beers. giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology. Q1. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook. glaucoma and diabetic eye disease ACC provides effective TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints. Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon. Cheap prices.HCMC Essentials Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels. Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. paraffin and waxing services. Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 americaneyecentervn. Tel: 0976 469 090 samie. offers massages lasting from 30 minutes. herbs. to two-hour hot stone therapy. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail. Tel: 0909 967 353 SAIGON RAIDERS M M M ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh SPORTS — GENERAL ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh eccsaigon. SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University. Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard. 5B Ton Duc Thang. 702 Nguyen Van Linh. Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam. and Japanese-style X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu. free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages. bottled mineral water and spirits. M M M HAIRDRESSERS. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia. Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail. Crescent Plaza. providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani. Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. Focusing on the retail trade. Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa. Tel: 0986 973 244 HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Saigonraiders. the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and. Thao Dien. massage and some excellent treatments. the same beef served up at El Gaucho. Rougie foie FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230 deepteshgill@gmail. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor.chew@vietnamhockey. Street 41. meat. they have to look fabulous. Of ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT. Tel: (08) 6295 8926 148 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. treatments at this Japanese spa include facial. HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke. Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef. body and foot RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao. blogspot. Galbani cheese. Q2. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. Thao Dien. Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij. com SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. Q1. Tel:(08) 3519 4671 American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung. physiotherapy. sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or hairbarvn.000 plus a range of related services including QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep. In addition to their excellent range of wines. SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit. ophthalmology. Q1. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods. SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A. Q2. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri. acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.acc. too. rington@ A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. Thao Dien. Q1. Tel: (08) 3910 5575 SPORTS CRICKET astere@hotmail. Tel: (08) 3744 2565 meatworksasia. VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton. fruit. 702 Nguyen Van Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa. Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan. Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao. GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue. Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www. Q1. 105 Ton Dat Tien. Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location. Q7 Modern and bright downtown spa. Tel: 01228 770 038 . pre-marinated. Q1. ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali. Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath. also distributing brands like San Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330. Tel: 0938 889899 fresh poultries. SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl. HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. too. also sells frozen meat and Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only. Q2. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.amit@yahoo. Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite. SQUASH The Landmark.

FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor. IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung. 469 Nguyen Huu Tho. Tel: (08) 5412 2222. Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic. Tan Binh. Kumho Asiana Plaza. CT Plaza. Tel: (08) 6297 State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks. Plus sports medicine. Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068 hanhphuchospital. chains such as CGV. Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. 12 Quoc Huong. 34 Le Duan. Crescent Mall. diagnos- 79 Dien Bien Phu. Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. Lotte Mart. Q3. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations. 71-79 Dong Khoi. Q7. 60A Truong Son. Q7. Q7. STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh. Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin. Phu My Hung. The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. digestive diseases. Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn. this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Level 7. Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn. and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Q1. Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 Experienced American. 3rd Floor. cosmetic treatments. Nguyen Van Linh. Saigon South Parkway. Tel: (08) 2222 0388 cgv. Hung Vuong Plaza. fvhospital. Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere. Q1. 126 Hung Vuong.FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC tic services and 24/7 emergency care. Tel: (08) 3822 7848. Diamond Plaza. Q1 CGV CINEMAS Level 5. The clinic utilises the latest therapies. Tel: (08) 3775 0555. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th | August 2015 Word | 149 . Q2. with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors. Diamond Plaza. smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts. Specialist care is available in many fields. 95 Thao Dien. women’s health and internal HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong. Level 10. Thuan An District. especially maternity care. Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. cardiology. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays. 39 Le Duan. Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao. Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos. Q2. 1058 Nguyen Van Linh. Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinasia. Q7. Bitexco Financial Tower. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. family or company The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor. 1A Me Linh Square. Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox. skin care and surgical consultations. check–ups. Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital. Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor. Q1. SC HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL Binh Duong Boulevard. Q1. 2 Hai Trieu. Q1. M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING IBC Building. Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai. CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. French. Thao Dien Mall. Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2. in– patient and out–patient Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual. 34 Le Duan. Tel: (08) 3519 3000. travel medicine and medical evacuations. providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas. Level 2. Q1. Tel: 1800 599 998 libertyinsurance. Level 5. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia.

PayPal founder Peter Thiel once remarked. yes.) A successful business is prosperous because of ‘good’ decision-making. ‘disruptive innovation’. but innovation cannot make claims to the contribution of a group’s betterment. We need to focus on what organisations do well. Not as glamorous. but the argument here does not confuse progress with virtue. Educating girls. a Harvard business professor whose 1997 book The Innovator’s Dilemma remains entrenched on university reading lists.A WORLD OF PROGRESS V INNOVATION GOOD BY DANA MCNAIRN An image from the Harold Crooks and Mathieu Roy documentary. despite the fact it’s been widely criticised and last in mind that innovation simply means to ‘make changes in anything established’. Surviving Progess (2012) I recently gave a talk on utilising ‘innovative partnerships’ as a way to solve ‘human capital’ issues within the hospitality and tourism industry. instead we got 140 characters”. So bosses tend to make similar decisions over a period of time because it ‘worked before’. for-profits and academia are urged to install ‘innovation teams’ in order to ‘innovate disruptively’. bosses’ decision-making must now embrace ‘disruption’ and with it shiny. and shaky evidence’. Yes. the organisation should be exploring how it can create and deliver actual new knowledge. progress is proactive. To put progress versus innovation into context requires a quick historical tour: the 18th century championed progress (Age of Reason). Innovation is reactive. the possibility of nuclear annihilation and repeated genocides (and perversely was also used in pro-slavery rhetoric). Innovation is the incremental tinkering we do to stuff. (The dilemma. followed quickly by innovation (mint flavour in toothpaste). sure. The triumphalist innovation (or disruption) cannot claim the future as it desires. is when ‘doing the right thing is the wrong thing’. progress has also given us two world wars. reproductive health freedom and criminalising war rape are not innovations. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO. But I was reluctant to pepper my talk with ‘innovation’ or ‘innovative’ and instead used the word ‘progressive’. as Lepore says. Keeping 150 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Raise your hand if your office regularly uses. like progress can. the 19th century had evolution (increasing civil secularity). “We wanted flying cars. but instead of fixating over innovations. is based on ‘profound anxiety about financial collapse. this is progress. so as not to get left behind (ack!). This is fear mongering disguised as business (or development) — guru-speak billowing out of ‘innovation centres’. What we don’t need are the whiz-bang distractions of innovation. deliberate pathway. progress is our grand design on an intended. eviscerated in The New Yorker by staff writer (and Harvard history professor) Jill Lepore. but rather the hard slog of solutions that require long-term commitment. a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth . Nonprofits. Innovation resides in the commercial world of immediacy and cutthroat competition. This applies to for-profits and nonprofits: innovation is a development shortcut. not fragmentation. or urges. Yet. but absolutely necessary. The hyperactive narrative has become ‘innovate or die’. the 20th century embraced growth (capitalist commodification). This state of affairs is laid firmly at the feet of Clayton Christensen. by the way. ‘disrupt or be disrupted’ (ack!). an apocalyptic fear of global devastation. this approach. Innovation is not progress. He was referring to our inability to elongate our time focus. It’s that last bit we’re stuck on. let alone a contribution to the ideal standard in society. (Can you hear the doomsday vibe?) This used to be called good ol’ research and development and it was never fraught with the handwringing we see today. Perhaps what’s called for is a healthier dose of skepticism when it comes to ‘new and improved’. forwardfacing innovation. Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Talented. 36 Thao ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor. science labs and an all-weather pitch. A fully accredited IB World School. inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. Q2. Q2. IT labs. 26. Q2. Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA. Q1. an InquireThink-Learn approach is followed. allowing them a head start in life. MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. highquality learning resources. over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. 190 Nguyen Van Huong. M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary). Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Q2. Essentials BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor. two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP). Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years. An Phu. swimming pool. BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu. Q2. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Has over 1. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs. gymnasium. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning. Thanh My Loi. Q2. home insurance and much Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme. Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam. certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Tel: (08) 3744 RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Energized Engaged Empowered INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) ishcmc. Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary). 27/3 Ha Huy Tap. Q2. Thao Dien. Phu My SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Tel: (08) 5412 3456 issp. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound.000 students from over 50 different nationalities. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance. respectful collaboration with their Tel: (08) 3898 9100 theabcis. Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus. Q2. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area Set in a purpose-built campus. International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 TATTOO SAIGON 128 Nguyen Cu SAIGON INK 26 Tran Hung Dao. academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien. montessori. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. It is a play-based. ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC). Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac. Tel: (08) 3744 2639 The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Q7. EXILE INK 608 57 Xuan Thuy. experienced staff. they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as Inspected and approved by the British Government. and small class sizes. Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis. Thu Thiem Campus. Q2. 628C Hanoi Highway. sport and languages. mini-pool. Tel: (08) 6287 0804 SAIGON BODY ART 135 Cong Quynh. Tel: (08) 5431 1833. Tel: (08) 3898 9816. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 92 Nguyen Huu Canh. Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon. The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class cam- MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy. 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) Offers an American-style education (SAT. Known for unique facilities. Q7. music and drama rooms. inquiring and caring for others. Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam. KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong. playful learning environment for children ages two to six. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh. com . Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 eishcmc. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. Q1. Tel: (08) 6675 6956 exileinkvietnam. IB and AP) from elementary to high-school. Their reputation for transparent. Q7. 8185 Ham EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien. emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. Thao Dien Campus. Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. Q2. Has a newly built campus. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees. Tel: (08) 3744 6960. Somerset Vista. An Phu. health insurance. Q2. Q7. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12. Tel: (08) 3821 9908 bluecross. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Q2. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23. APSC Compound. Tel: (08) 3742 7827 28 Vo Truong Toan. Street Nr. Q2. Vietnam. Pricing depends on size and style. Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam. Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart. in the early years. 5. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning. travel Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors. Q1 Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). inquiry model in which children coconstruct their learning in close. 10. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. 15 Tran TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular. Tel: (08) 3519 2727. authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years.HCMC International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance. Continental Tower. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong. Tel: (08) 5431 1833 puses in District 2.

SYM Attilas and Excels. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.3. M M M RELOCATION AGENTS AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the Tel: 0903 198901 Q2. Adecco is the world leader in human resources SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail. Tel: 0903 013690 saigonscootercentre. Q2. Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon. Tel: (08) 3823 7691 District 1. local and office moves and pet relocations. Supports professional services and aftersales. Floor 9. Allied also provides tailored relocation services. Call for details and prices. Just relocated to its new home in District SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao.HCMC Essentials Ngoc Dien. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273 nga. 26 . THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su. HCMC. we can move your property to and from any location. Enquiries via their website are welcome. Established in Vietnam in Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods. tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. engineering & technical. Q2. Rents by the day or by the month.natalie@gmail. belly G. Thao Dien. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Q4. Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds. 9 Doan Van Bo. Q2. ballet. Classicos. Lafayette De Saigon. Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city. salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. with services including door-todoor moving. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st A global leader in international removals and relocations. vieclambank. Q1. Le Van This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. marketing & events. orientated towards expats. Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien. with 130 offices globally.. especially in District 2. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. saigonbikerentals. Tel: 0903 643446 chiscafe. Thao Dien. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail. Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. sales. French and Spanish. local. 2nd 152 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh. and office. 5 Nguyen Gia Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano. Miss Ao Dai Building. Ward 12. SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien. 21 Nguyen Trung Expert in providing rental properties. M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor. Call or check the website for details. 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh. 180 Pasteur. funk. JVK is a leader in the field. District 4. Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong. Q1. 8A Phung Khac Khoan. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO. Lane 42. Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves. Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy. IT. Q2. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien. Phu Nhuan. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Also does accessories. Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling. Q1. Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn. Q1. You’ll get many. TAE KWON DO BP Compound. Yamaha Nouvos. Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Q2. asiantigers-mobility. International coaches provide training in soccer. Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia. Q1. Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa. Empire Tower. Website is in English. constructions and interior decoration. Q4. Thao Dien. Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato. Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse. Q2. Q2. Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. LTD. quality imported helmets and bike rentals. Tel: 0903 952223 PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy. Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo. 720K Thao Specialists in international. clarinet and saxophone. Q2. Tel: (08) 5404 1373 Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves.A. Q1. Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space. An Phu. Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap. Tel: (08) 3910 1220 Owners of Snap Café in District basketball. Thao . HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. Tel: (08) 2226 8855 ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor.28 Ham Nghi. 77a Hanoi Highway. hip-hop. Ree Tower. In Vietnam. SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai. Q2. Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38. Thien Son Building. M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS 185/30 Pham Ngu Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz. Saigon Port Building. Tel: (08) 3915 3430 With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries. housing and school searches. KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai. Q1. Phuoc Long B. Also does visa extensions. domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Suite 701. as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub. Tel: (08) 6288 3888 Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and Q2. Luvias. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food. snacks and freeflow beer after the run. Binh Thanh. as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves. Q1. vietnameselanguagegarden. VND150. Includes yoga. pilates. M M M SERVICED APARTMENTS town by high-speed boat In addition to the squash court. No membership fees. Pay for classes. 176 thelandmarkvietnam. as well as two on-site restaurants. usually 4km and a run around 8km. intermediate and advanced levels. Q2. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang. Tel: (08) 3744 6672 wordvietnam. Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female With over 150 offices around the world. Tel: (08) 3827 2828 Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself. Q2. Thien Son Building. NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai. Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies. immigration services and records management. Q1. Q1. Santa Fe offers local and international moving. orientation. 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu. Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman. separate work and living Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Located minutes from down- CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan. Q1. elegant furnishings and carefully chosen Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. M M M SPORTS GARMENTS THE LANDMARK CLUB HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5. Q2. Q1. a steam room and sauna. Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.000 for locals and VND220. martial arts and Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares. en-suite bathrooms. Q2. Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion. boxing and fitness for kids and adults every This sports centre in An Phu. M M M sheratonsaigon. Binh Trung Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Bus. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong. | August 2015 Word | 153 . features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. body and mind.000 for expats. schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. 91 Nguyen Huu Canh. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash. a gym. from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. sauna and steam room. Quarter 3. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. Tel: 0916 670 771 HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies. relocation services including home search. Caravelle hotel. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. Tel: (08) 3742 5678 the-ascott. Tel: (08) 3719 9588 score-tech. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. Q1. modern amenities. Email chiara@laholista. Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental. Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. Q3. Q1. facilities include a fully–equipped gym room. SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3. water. Q2. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu. cultural training. Binh Thanh. Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location. circuit training. GYM. 88 Dong Khoi. Bus out to the county with a walk. Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No. comfort and class. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing.SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL. SQUASH The Landmark. started by fitness guru Cyril. SHERATON FITNESS STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 VIETNAMESE CLASSES SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van. 5B Ton Duc Thang. POOL. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs. They come with separate living and dining areas. Tel: (08) 3823 2288 for info. Q12. a Sunday 2pm sharp. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes. Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 for info. Has a small but consistent membership. Tel: (08) 3822 9197. is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms. pet transportation. M M M SPORTS & FITNESS nutrifort.104-BTT. 628C Hanoi Highway. Group classes include power yoga. An Phu. Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments. who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. with five–star facilities and service. Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you. composition or a 6-hour survival crash course. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen. Tel: (08) 3822 8899. as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Somerset Chancellor Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments. their family and friends.

2 Lam Son.vietnammm. LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien. PIZZA HUT (PHD) O’BRIEN’S Tel: (08) 3823 5795 OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR LOTTERIA Top Floor. with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. and entertaining music events / DJ Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine. this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop. LAST CALL AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du. ONTOP BAR Novotel VIETNAMMM www. this kitschly designed but nonetheless attractive establishment is one of the few places in town catering for the pink dollar. Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien. Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 5946 A café during the day and a bar at night. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Q1. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele. soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever.park. authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts. Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs. darts are still key here.HCMC On The Town BARS & CLUBS BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park DOMINO’S PIZZA 19-21 Dong Khoi. wooden-panelled. 76A Le Lai. Q1. attractive bar staff and German food SCOOZI IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung. LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong. TACO BICH www. Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon. And when we say This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare. 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh. as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. 154 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon. darts.tacobich. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly. GAME ON SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s. Q1. VN www. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of International décor blends seamlessly with local The original An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. Q2. Q1. vietnammm. CENTRO LOUNGE BAR & CAFÉ 11-13 Lam Son For the spectacular views alone. Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. Night live music and DJs. the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). this large. Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors. BUDDHA BAR APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach. AB Tower. international bar and restaurant. pub food. large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Tel: 0909 028293 Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape. Bitexco If you’re in need of dense. Q1. Q1. Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. Tel: (08) 3824 1234 . this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere. BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon. check out their zesty rolls. 2 Hai Trieu. Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.scoozipizza. Q1 The original expat bar. Q2. Tel: (08) 3744 5453 EAT. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao. Naturally.chezguido. Q1. Tel: (08) 3910 0000 A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. And for a real treat. 40/24 Bui A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised mayrestaurant. Great pizzas. Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 HUNGRYPANDA. BAAN THAI SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien.VN www. Q1. pool and weekly poker tourneys. Has taken over from where the now defunct Q Bar left off. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. imported beer. restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR www.kfcvietnam. Has regular live music. classic cocktails. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www. a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city. which are served up in the garden terrace out back. this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice. 167 Hai Ba Trung. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR 24 Hai Ba Trung. bootlegsaigon. Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR 44 Pasteur. we mean big.lotteria. the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Great happy hour deals for early evening RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien. Q3. Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon. Q1. lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night. Tel: 0907 609202. Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www. and tasty Sunday night roasts. Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. Q1. Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine. Q1. A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one. this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts. outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner. Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower. brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened.hungrypanda. Q1. EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR Level 52. Q1. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole. Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual. contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. yet hip ambience. NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www. Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing. appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Q1. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive. Check their website for details. Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon. Q1. LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat. Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre. Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. houses an upscale. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi. pool and more. Lots of live sports.

213 Bui Vien. M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh. the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 An attractive. Q1. Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke. With ambient lighting and town tempo A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. U2 and Guns n’ Roses. quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong. Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat. Q1. Q1. a long bar. Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar. it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien. SPOTTED COW The first bar established in Saigon South. stick around for entertaining events and markets. hostess style table service are the name game here. this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon. Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises. Q1. Regular DJ nights. Da Kao. 5B Ton Duc Thang. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans. SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor. smoothies. Inspired by Bantay Srei. Phu My Hung. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines. with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.nguyen197@gmail. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor. Tapas. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2. brick-wall interior. THE OBSERVATORY VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur. the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of Q1. with BBQs available for parties and events. Q7. sangria. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep. big screens. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the Named after the Danish artist Storm P. 70s and 80s tunes. juices. Tel: (08) 3914 0007 Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien. 1923 Lam Son Square. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen | August 2015 Word | 155 .vn A two-storey. from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’. great music and loads of A sleek. homemade desserts. Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook. where three talented Filipino bands (B&U. Tel: 01699 990003 sam. Has regular live music nights. and darts. Q’vans. Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium. Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast. showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. a pool table and live music. here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi. (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu. Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. Serves creative. Boasts concrete floors. Q1. BAR. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. A great venue for a few beers and more. Caravelle Saigon. siphon. Observatory is now at a bigger space in District Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities. are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass. Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien. industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. spacious. Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup. Q1. Q2. Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon. from a five-seat coffee bar. A popular local haunt. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks. a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom. Q1 facebook. Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Q1. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao. THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3. Q1. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band. great food. 14 Ton That Dam. Q1. Offers up tasty breakfasts. Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.PEACHES CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2. Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960sera apartment building. Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions. as well as decent international comfort food. Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s. Top shelf spirits and friendly. Phatty’s has become the goto. high table seating. THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building. Q1 facebook. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix. THE ORIENT SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam. dark wooden furniture. Bui Bang Doan. Q7. Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux. Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi. theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiep. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink. all at reasonable prices. A good place to watch the live sports. and Chemex wordvietnam. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. and a lounge on the first From its roots as the famed Café Latin. Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy. this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar A small but swanky cafe. a range of happy hours. speciality coffee such as cold drip. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. Q4. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. live This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh. Q1 shrinebarsaigon.

000 more for sua). white tile. it’s “a romantic place”. Tungsten bulbs dangle from uneven cords suspended from the ceiling at romantic intervals. In fact. But we persist in getting Vietnamese coffees (VND30. concrete.COFFEE CUP BAZAAR COFFEE & STUDIO Photos by Kyle Phanroy T here’s a type of coffee shop that we don’t typically cover in this much to recommend it. But that’s kind of missing the point of this café experience. Poppy music echoes through the space. ‘A Romantic Place’ There are several different wall textures: brick.000 for a ca phe da. The hits they play are part of the experience. As our waitress tells us. It’s an experience you can get at many of the cute. brick painted with owl mascot by architectowner Ngoc. wood. Don’t be fooled by the cute vintage signboard in front that says “CAFÉ LATTÉ”. then in our heads for hours later. Birds chirp in the lane between the two halves of the café. The coffee isn’t bad. or any Italian coffee at BazaarCoffeeShop . — Ed Weinberg Bazaar Coffee & Studio is at 175 Vo Thi Sau. well enough to charge Sunday afternoon photographers for shooting in its space. there’s no espresso machine in sight. because they don’t usually have good Italian coffee. but Bazaar does it well. VND5. HCMC. Ceramic owls peer down from nooks in the two-storey wall. but there isn’t 156 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. the young RMIT student taking our order recommends the yoghurt drinks. While flipping through the wood grain pages of the menu. Q3. Places that succeed in what they’re trying are never redundant additions to our café options. or at facebook. Vietnamese-orientated coffee shops around the city.

vn Trendy without pretense. sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and At M2C (Modern Meets Culture). creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee. 14 Ton That Dam. the ample soft. With a cup of well-brewed coffee. whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. Q1 coffeebean. Q2 Tel. Q1. this two-floor. Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace. Second location on Le Loi. 49 Thao Dien.HCMC On The Town COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse wordvietnam. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia. or good ol’ caffeine-infused Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. 14 Ton That Dam. Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel. Q1. shows immense local culture. Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 Q1. I. Europe. Q1. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong. America and the Middle East. Q1. yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks. Q1. 235 Dong Khoi. Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex. Q1. tea and more tea. and art An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy. everything gets a touch of modernity. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor. quirky environment. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.D. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious. all in a contemporary. Tel: 0935 293400 facebook. The contemporary. Q3. Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook. Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor. A Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos. here you’ll be in heaven. Metropolitan Building. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. film screenings. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan. Q1. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor. Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea. contemporary environment adds to the theme. relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music. 70B Le Loi. and a fashion store and art gallery out back. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Tel: 0909 670272 Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market. nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed | August 2015 Word | 157 . THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach. 36 Le Loi. A simple. Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe. 151 Dong Khoi. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh. Q1. done with a modern flare. accompanied by some background jazz. Great prices and food with daily specials. Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon. Tel: (08) 6674 9565. it is an afternoon Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard.

Thursdays are still for karaoke. (I happily stuck to emailing him to iron out the details. But how do you get there? You know that gigantic District 7 Lottemart on Nguyen Thi Thap? Right. mics. I’m golden. and even an American comedian. I want to coax them into selling me a bottle. cheap cold drinks and all that Mexican street food awaits you. On Saturdays they have a penchant for the live stuff — subject to band bookings. The lowdown is that one of the business partners. are a free for all. burritos and salsa. all who were there for Moto’s weekly Open Mic Photos by Francis Xavier sound of his voice and musical talents. along with some poets (both local and expat). Park yourself at an outside table. The homemade hot sauce is killer — no lie. He couldn't find it here. tacos. Screw making me a takeaway hot sauce. pet the dog. Voila! Vespa paraphernalia. At the time of writing. this new location will be open for hire. Lounging. and admire the moto-memorabilia. bass. and a PA system at your disposal. as mentioned. And what would a biker bar be without biker outings? They organise Sunday bike trips out of the city. while you take in the tunes.saigon . have a chat. Danh missed all the Mexican food back in Baja. Danh. cajón. drink your draught. and I certainly value a glass of cold ruou vang over a brewski any day. acoustic jams. if you’re familiar with his old place. you’re nearly there. Plus. But have no fear. Q7. Also. three-floor setup were beloved members of Saigon’s music scene. Dan. is from Southern California. perch yourself on a stool near their cozy stage. Lucky for us. Sounds like a win-win. I’m moving STOOL MOTO SAIGON I ’m not much of a karaoke gal. and enjoy the chilled atmosphere. Dan told me that the bar will soon have custom parts on display and for sale. the next one planned was for Can Gio Bio Reserve. too. “It will be easy for people to come have a drink and customise their bike at the same time. There’s a chaise longue upstairs. and turn left on Duong 38. so he had to make it himself: street corn.000 glass of wine. HCMC or online at facebook. or climb up further and unwind in the soft yellow lighting. two guitars. while you enjoy your passionfruit mojito. bacon wrapped hotdogs.) But here’s what I discovered. They’ve got a ukulele. as he was instead permeating the shop-house style bar with the smooth 158 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Fridays. Scoot down NTT with the Lotte on your left. and we were happily surprised to have bumped into even more Saigonites. while I gratefully sipped my VND50. much more worth my time to hear him belt out Queens of the Stone Age. scattered throughout the intimate. homey. I began sampling the Mexican street food-inspired menu. Make one last left on Duong So 23 and follow it down to the end. I’d invited a handful of friends to come with me on a Friday night.” he explained. there’s American comfort food. In the Works After I situated myself upstairs to better scope out the stage. This will turn into Duong So 10. During our stay I didn’t have much of a chance to speak with one of the owners. Soon. you know you used to be able to rent that baby out for the night. Dan says. — Sandee Woodside Moto-Saigon is at 88 Duong So 23. but luckily there’s something for everyone at Moto Saigon’s new haunt.

kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. Q1. excellent service and even better fish. Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient. BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu. Has a daily specials board. the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Q3. homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vi- ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Creatively named burgers. Vietnamese fare and more. Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. toasties. Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon. Q1. open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40. An institution.000. sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Q1. 33 Tong Huu Dinh. with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. passadors bring the meat skewers to your table. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop. Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The home of legendary French chef Bibi. This pleasant. Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 Besides the spectacular views. ASHOKA has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Q1. or quality conversations held over a drink or two. tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton. Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel. hot pots and curries. Comfortable couch seating. and pizzas. all set in a contemporary. 27 Le Quy Don. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin. Q1. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. Q1. AB Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien. Al Fresco’s offers international. 76A Le Lai. Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers. Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant. this convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine uses fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area. AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen. the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw. baked potatoes. Q1. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs. Tel: (08) 3821 wordvietnam. BLACK CAT AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat. Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon. Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small. Q7. seafood and Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches. NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN THINGS CAFE 1st Floor. the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. stir fries. BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien. Has a popular motorbike rental service. Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe. Phu My Hung. buildyour-own breakfasts. mains and more. Try their pad thai — to die for. Q1. VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung. contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. cooked fresh to order. Q2. Best experienced in a group. The menu BAHDJA 2nd Floor. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. com Long-running. Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup. Thao Dien. 14 Ton That Dam. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy. spacious environment. creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare. airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien. This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. CAFÉ IF etnamese cuisine with a French twist. serving authentic.HCMC On The Town offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Q2. pastas. M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor. salads and mezzes. All complemented by fresh. 107 Ton Dat Tien. and you. An Phu Superior Compound. Q1. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard. Q2. kormas. Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five. 29 Ton That Thiep.000. Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien. New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti. Q1. Q1. Q1. award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du. Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original. Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup. Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang. friendly service to 17/10 Le Thanh Ton. Dishes include noodle The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains. Tel: (08) 3823 1372. AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time. Tel: (08) 6678 6205 Although a hotel | August 2015 Word | 159 . Tel: (08) 3744 5453 Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. 74/3 Hai Ba Trung. Has a delivery outlet in District 2. match. spiced up cocktails. Excellent. Q1. steamed ravioli and beef stew. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road. on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere. Tel: (08) 3820 7157

You get what you pay for. and while getting there isn’t as straightforward as you might think. But as they say in Vietnamese. Here you certainly do.000. The fine-dining menu is split between Asian and Western cuisine. or about a week’s worth of banh mi op la — if that was all you were eating. is a view that few else can offer. From our visit it was clear the cuisine cooked up by Chef Cuong Do and his team easily rises to the occasion. A glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc set us back VND200. escalators and two changes of lift. onto the good part — the food. including some tonesetting ‘posh guacamole’ with caviar and crab. including it as my main. tien nao cua nay. even by these standards this is not for the fainthearted.TOP EATS EON 51 FINE DINING E on 51 offers an elevated dining experience — quite literally. the reward for navigating the building’s car park. expensive views don’t come cheap here. But be warned. Though.850. The restaurant is an expectation-raising 51 floors up in Ho Chi Minh City’s iconic Bitexco Tower. The opening .000) with the staff accommodating my penchant for duck without problem. Beginning with a medley of starters and hors’ d’oeuvres. with pricing more aligned with what we’re used to in the West. for company we choose an Argentinean malbec and the aforementioned sauvignon blanc. putting unfair comparisons aside. With it comes an obvious sense of occasion. alongside a bread feature worthy of the Chelsea flower show. Value for Money So. Both are from an extensive wine list. When we were there we went for one of his set menus (VND1.

It was that good. The one thing lacking from Eon 51 is atmosphere (no pun intended). And as for the food. When it came to attentive | August 2015 Word | 161 . the food was spot on. the views aren’t quite enough. To truly elevate itself above the competition. We could be heroes Onto the mains and once again. if first impressions as well as a top-notch experience matter. this dining option was a winner. our photographer Francis was kept busy. These were a delicious white bean soup with truffle oil. As if we weren’t full enough. Q1. the freshest of salmon tartars — including a beetroot emulsion I wanted more of — and finally an al dente crabmeat risotto. polenta and roasted capsicum was beautifully cooked. 2 Hai Trieu.Photos by Francis Xavier salvos were followed by three dishes. each portion left us craving for more. you’ll be hard pressed to find somewhere better. out came a moreish desert of crepes with orange milk and a zesty lemon sorbet. provided a harmonious counterpunch. But this is splitting hairs. HCMC. Certainly some mood music and possibly some artistic light direction wouldn’t go astray. each one tending to let the ingredients speak for themselves — complex but not pretentious. and when shared with my peach infused duck. Presented with meticulous care and finesse. Tel: (08) 6291 8750. — Jon Aspin Eon 51 Fine Dining is on the 51st floor of Bitexco Tower. a dish that would sit comfortably in any French creperie that I know. The rack of rare Australian lamb with taro. The Heli Bar with views over the city’s highest helipad is on the floor above wordvietnam. And while dining here isn’t cheap.

these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than Ground floor. fresh ingredients. Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Q7. the meats. comfortable seating. Still furbished as it was 20 years Sofitel Saigon Plaza. Attractively decorated in warm reds. Bitexco Tower. 8–15 Ton Duc restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly. but the bun bo Hue. with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. KP My Phat. Tex-Mex. Q2. the international offerings here are consistently good and Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine. this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. 103 Ton Dat The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers. authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated 31 Thai Van 50 Pasteur. Q1. 116 Suong Nguyet Anh. Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh. 2 Hai . and excellent. bun thit nuong. Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Phu My Hung. but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Probably serves up the best steak in town. cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. 5D Nguyen Sieu. A great place for dinner. Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles. then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.restaurant19@gmail. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN Level 51. Q1. Phu My Hung. Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau. Q1. relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment. Although a chain restaurant. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia. banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent. Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet. grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. Slick The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Q1. Now with a number of restaurants around town. Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine. onions and a lime leaf marinade. Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. 17 Le Duan.000. Q1. Kumho Link. InterContinental Asiana Saigon. Tel: (08) 6291 8750 eon51. Tel: (08) 6260 2727 loveat. Reasonably If you want to take friends. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong. The Mediterranean and The Orient. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung. Tel: (08) 3925 9996 Friendly. Tel: (08) 3823 1101. Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. 2 Hai Trieu. and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. The Crescent. cheap house wine is served by the carafe. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton. Excellent outdoor terrace. Q1. Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Not only is it well-priced. Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef. with the KOTO vocational training school. then Hoang Yen really is the place to Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower. Tel: (08) 3827 2090. Q1. SD04. Excellent service. Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel. Tel: (08) 3825 1879. orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL LE JARDIN NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL FUSION CLASSIC FRENCH INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Square. Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome. 36 Tong Huu Dinh. Q1. Q1. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN 29 Hai Trieu. Dishes range from VND80. Q1. Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 The rustic looking. and everything you eat here is quality. Q1. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad. 74/7 Hai Ba Very friendly service. cheeses. a good wine menu. com hen. Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish. Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant. Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa. backed up with an extensive wine list. and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe. chicken. skewers. LION CITY SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan. A great place to take out-of-town guests. Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired. Check out their set lunches and happy hour. with breads. Has a small but well thought out menu.000 to VND900. an attractive outdoor terrace area. US-style soups and salads. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant. aircon Vietnamese 162 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Tel: (08) 38 250261. and awesome chicken curry. blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel. 39 Le Duan. this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. Has petanque on the terrace. this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table. chilli crab and fish head curry. MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien. Unit CR1-12. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Q7. Kumho Link. Bakery-style Bistro out front. An Phu. gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant. HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung. with healthy juices and smoothies. 19 Lam Son Square. Q1. MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi. the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar. The robust. Tel: (08) 6253 282 pendolasco. Q1. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue. pickles. mustard leaf prawn rolls. just minutes from the backpacker area. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1. Q2. Q1. yellows and oranges. mee rebus. pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees. Q1. classic setting. of Hai Ba Trung & Le One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Q1. fishes and seafoods are all fresh. Q1. GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung. Q1. an extensive wine and cocktail Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square. Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. com Casual yet stylish. excellent burgers. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. The Crescent. lamb. 39 Le Duan. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 3rd Floor Rooftop. Lo H29-2. fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger. pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. Either way. Q1. Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe. Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may. Q1. Bitexco Financial Tower. Q1. Crn. homemade spicy this contemporary. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced. Check out their pepper Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda.HCMC On The Town 4327 elbowroom. Q1. pizzas. Q1. Although the selection is small. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Nam Giao is the place. Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. to boot! HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ L’OLIVIER AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Ground Floor. Caravelle Hotel. The atmosphere may be a bit The longest running expat bar in A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork. Q1. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha. Tel: (08) 3915 6066 This intimate. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 74 Hai Ba Offers authentic. Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant. Subtle lighting. Open late. plating up the likes of nasi lemak. MOGAMBO PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien. and a good kids menu. salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere. American cuisine. bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. as well as specialities like frog porridge. Tel: (08) 3821 8181. Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton.

PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen. Q1. SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1. with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. with every type of option under the sun. Tel: (08) 3829 9244 This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza. AB Building. Has a second branch in District Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Simple. A place to see and be seen. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen. Q1. 88 Dong Khoi. AB Tower. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep. Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. leafy terracotta-tiled garden area. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers. Open until 3am. all cooked up without scottbinhs. a terrace and private rooms. which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers. bacon and more bacon. Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps. Q1. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. all set in Some have described them as glamburgers. Q1. Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh. Tamago has indoor and out door seating. Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24. Q1. SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh. Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery. Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant. Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi. Serves creative. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U | August 2015 Word | 163 . Tel: (08) 3823 0509 SCOTT AND BINH’S INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat. this astonishing. A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. Renaissance Riverside. Q2. Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge. Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail. Q3. Q1. gnocchi. the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi. contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional. A well-thought out and romantic venue. and you get The Hungry Pig. SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 51 Hai Ba Trung. Centec Tower. look no further. Hong Kong and Dubai. Q1. this popular. garlic or MSG. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients. Singapore. Features western. 74 Hai Ba Trung. 17-19-21 Ly Tu If you like your buffet selections to be big. Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace. RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle. Q1. quan nhau-style setting. Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon. with excellent food. An excellent place for group dining. this restaurant boasts a full bar. 8–15 Ton Duc Located on the main drag in Thao Set over two floors. Phu My Hung. SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor. osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Their cheesy fries are to die It’s a no-brainer. spacious atmosphere. this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Tel: 01207 214294 facebook. indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous. this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere.Opening out into a large. Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim. right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese. ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. we describe them as creative burgers done well in a contemporary atmosphere. Q1. a range of dips. cool refreshing cocktails and a range of all things Think bacon. Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet. Tel: (08) 3602 2241. Reservations Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island. all homemade comfort food. in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. That is certainly the gloss you’ll find at Relish & Sons.php Serving creative. chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. A popular hangout. Q7. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion. meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap. this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta. Of course it is. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building. Q1. excellent pizza and grilled dishes. And if you like your dim sum. 76 Le Lai. 17A Ngo Van Nam. then here it is gargantuan. comfortable space. Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the wordvietnam. no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York. Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou. high-quality. Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon. mousaka. Q1. with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook. along with funky draught beer options. complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. Asian and Vietnamese buffets. Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook. Q1. Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace. 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. at this popular. as well as more traditional varieties. REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton. international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki. risotto. Tel: 0948 901465 Once a hotel for Indian dig- nitaries visiting old Saigon. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor. Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul. Q1. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. The longest running Korean restaurant in town. TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao. unpretentious Greekinfluenced. 5B Ton Duc Thang. Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook. Good for events. 76A Le

Evenly distribute the filling inside the bowl. Now add all-purpose flour followed by fresh whipping cream and 1 cup of water. Make sure it’s about 1 inch bigger so it will stick to the sides. Ingredients for the filling — 250 grams of chicken fillets 164 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Grease a large ovenproof bowl. Pre-heat your oven for 10 minutes to 160C. surrounded by or only topped with a crust. Next. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook. beaten with 1 tablespoon of water to make egg wash — Salt to taste Method Melt the butter in a deep pan and add the diced chicken fillets. Add fresh rosemary. Stir well to mix the flour evenly. In this recipe I have given the dish a bit of an Italian touch with a rich creamy white sauce that melts the chicken every time you take a bite. Cook over a medium heat until the meat turns white. cut the dough into the same shape as the bowl. Chicken pot pies can be made up with or without vegetables. Keep the flame on medium and cook for 2 minutes. chopped — Handful of fresh rosemary — 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper — 1 egg. Using a pastry brush. Brush the tops with egg wash and sprinkle with a little salt. pepper and rosemary. Now place the filled bowls on a baking tray and cook in the preheated oven for about 10 to 15 minutes or until the tops are golden brown. the pies evolved into having one primary filling: chicken. vegetables and base in a saucepan. Make a little incision with a fork or knife so the pie doesn’t puff up and arorassassykitchen. brush the sides of the bowl with the egg wash and cover with the puff pastry. Then I bake it for 10 to 15 minutes and serve it with a fresh side salad. You can also check out her website — . This savory favourite can trace its roots to the Greeks and Romans who would make pies with several meat fillings. bell pepper and broccoli — cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Pie Assembly Take the frozen dough pastry and keep it at room temperature for 10 minutes. add diced vegetable onions. I pour the mixture into a casserole dish and top it with a puff pastry square. After cooking the chicken. I use frozen pastry dough that can be found at any western grocery store. beef.THE EMPTY WOK AMERICAN CHICKEN POT PIE C hicken pot pie is a classic American dish — the traditional version is filled with creamy chicken and seasoned vegetables. BY RICCHA ARORA Photo by Kyle Phanroy — 1/2 cup of diced carrots — 1/2 cup of bell peppers — 1/2 cup of broccoli florets — 1 medium size onion finely chopped — 1 tablespoon of butter — 1 tablespoon of all-purpose flour — 1/2 cup of fresh whipping cream — 1 cup of water — 1 tablespoon fresh parsley. Add salt. This recipe serves two to three people. parsley and ground black pepper. Roll out the puff pastry onto a lightly floured board and using the bowl as a guide. making sure to seal the sides against the bowl. pork or turkey.

com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles. that no-one seems to mind. as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular. Phu Nhuan 195 Co Giang. Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types. Q3 WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt. we will donate VND50. a family and an education. Q2 MI QUANG 38 Dinh Tien Hoang. fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen. Q1. the foundation provides the children with a home. Tel: (08) 3829 7943 PHO LE PHO BO 413-415 Nguyen Trai. Q1. yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city.HCMC On The Town drinks and has a separate dining space. InterContinental Asiana Saigon. Q1. Q3 THE LUNCH LADY BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 23 Hoang Sa. and healthy. Q5 BA NAM PHO PHU GIA BO KHO PHO BO Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong. Q1 TIEM COM GA HAI NAM BANH CUON 11A Cao Thang. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI 62 Nguyen Van Trang. 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. this is a small price to pay to help those in need. Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. 111 Nguyen Hue. BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI ZOOM CAFÉ MI QUANG MY SON AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien. Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. Q1 CHI THONG 164 Cong Quynh. M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM 84 Dang Van Ngu. Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow. For more information on Mai Nha. Q1 NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE 189 Bis Bui Vien. Tel: (08) 3822 2166. Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak. Q1. Q3 PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA 260C Pasteur. Q3. simply email trang@wordvietnam. Q1. YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st | August 2015 Word | 165 . click on mai-nha. Cheap.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. At VND120. Q3 COM TAM 40A COM TAM 40A Quoc Huong. Q10 146E Ly Chinh Thang. Q1 COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN 55 Tu Xuong. BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT 102 Cao Thang. 226 De Tham. Tel: (08) 3821 7751 To arrange your home delivery. Q3 BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI 107 Truong Dinh. Q3 Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam. DAILY CHANGING DISHES 70 Vo Van Tan. Q3. Q3 BANH CUON HAI NAM Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future. crn. Q3. Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM 271 Nguyen Trai. To help fund this programme.000 per month (minimum of six months). Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll. and the staff are often surprisingly lazy. Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI 170 Vo Van Tan. Q1. Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO 288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown. HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE 67 Le Thi Hong Gam. Hueinfluenced cuisine.000 to Mai Nha. Tel: (08) 3821 BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton. for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your wordvietnam.

E1. D2 Ng u yen Tron FLOWERS Le Thanh Ton C4 Miinnh Quye n uyen Binh FABRICS Hai Ba Trung A3 KH OI NG HI Diinnh Tran EVERYTHING Ben Thanh Market C4 nh Van Tran Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club NG SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1. D4. D2 CAR COMPONENTS Tran Quang Khai A3 Ky Con C4. C3 Ban Co C1 Ben Chuong Duong D3. C5 Ho Xuan Huong C2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu TAM Than h DISTRICT 10 h Ma H uyn GUITARS Nguyen Thien Thuat D1. B5 h Do ANTIQUES Le Cong Kieu C4 in Ch T en uy Ng A2 A4 A5 C4. D4 Ng D en Tran Huy LLiieeuu Phan Dinh Phung Phan Ke Binh Phan Van Han Pho Duc Chinh Phung Khac Khoan Suong Nguyet Anh Tan Vinh Thach Thi Thanh Thai Van Lung Thi Sach Thu Khoa Huan Ton Dan Ton Duc Thang Ton That Dam Ton That Thiep Ton That Tung Tran Binh Trong Tran Canh Chan Tran Cao Van Tran Dinh Xu Tran Hung Dao Tran Huy Lieu Tran Khac Chan Tran Khanh Du Tran Minh Quyen Tran Nhan Tong Tran Nhat Duat Tran Phu Tran Quang Khai Tran Quoc Thao Tran Quoc Toan Tran Van Dang Truong Dinh Truong Quyen Truong Sa Tu Xuong Vinh Hoi Vinh Khanh Vo Thi Sau Vo Van Tan Vuon Chuoi Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Xom Chieu Yersin Tran N 3 Thang 2 C1 Alexandre de Rhodes B4 An Duong Vuong D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2. C3 D4. A5 B2 E3. B3. C3. C1. E1. D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4. C3 B3 A4. C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4. C5. C5 C4. A3. D4 PHU ROI PH U MOTORBIKES Ly Tu Trong C3 YEN VAN T INH Le V an S y N BIKE MAINTENANCE Nguyen Du C3 Huy uynh nh Vaann Banh BI E N LUGGAGE Le Lai C3. C5 H uy Saigon Train Station Miinnh Quye n Tan Binh 0. B3.5km ng SEAFOOD Vinh Khanh D4. D4 Ky Dong B2 Le Cong Kieu C4 Le Duan B4. B3 A2. C2. E5 B5. B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4. B4. C5 C4 D5. C4 N GU 2 PHA ND ien gH on hu ARMY SURPLUS Dan Sinh Market D4 uy anh Th JAPANESE RESTAURANTS Le Thanh Ton B4. E2. C2. D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1. C4 Le Thi Hong Gam C4. B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3. D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2 inh 1 PHU NHUAN A yen Ngu Tran Huy LLiieeuu HCMC Map Airport 3km h Chiinn Diinnh NG DAO U TRAN H . D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4. C5 Hai Ba Trung A2. D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2. B1 A3 A2 B1. B2. E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2. C3. C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4. A3 B1. B3. E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4. B5. C2 C2 A5 E5 C4. C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5. C3 Quoc Ba H han To SAFES Vo Van Tan C3 NA M Ky D B Tran Tran Tran Van Danngg PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2. C2 Luu Van Lang C4 KY ong MA N G TH PHO COOKING INGREDIENTS Ham Nghi C4. D5. E4 A3 B5 B5. D4 Cong Quynh D3 De Tham C3. C4 Mac Dinh Chi B4 Mac Thi Buoi C5 Mai Thi Luu A4 Me Linh A5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2. C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5. B2 B1 B2. D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3. C3. B3. C4. C2. C1 D1 A3 D1 A2. B4. B3. D5 Le Quy Don B3 Le Thanh Ton B4. B2. C4. D5. C3 Calmette C4 Calmette D4 Cao Ba Nha D3 Cao Thang C1. E3 Bui Thi Xuan C3 Bui Vien D3 Cach Mang Thang Tam B1. 5 E1 Huynh Thuc Khang C4 Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. B3 B3.BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1 PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3 CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4 CAC H ung Hoa H A NG C 3 District 11 2km Ban h A Min 2 NG THA Ba n hQ uy en Ng DIE LY THA I G HT HAN AU HI S T O Ch uo i Vuon Chuoi Market Tha n g Co hie hC uye n u Ng Thi en Thu at u in nD ye a nH So en uy g N TO NG EN UY AI KH NH I I M Chanh TH am Viet Ph g Teacher Training University CU VAN U PH AN R T YEN SPORTSWEAR Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 G HUN University of Natural Sciences NG VUO N GU D LY CHI N V Ca o Tra n Quan Tho ng Vu on G VUON UONG AN D STATIONERY Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3 yen Bieu Binh g Tron E DISTRICT 5 n Trai Ng u y e Tran Binh Tay Market 3km Ngu WEDDING SERVICES Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1 t n Da 166 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. D4 Le Thi Rieng C3 Le Van Sy A1 Luong Huu Khanh C2 Luu Van Lang C4 Ly Chinh Thang B2 Ly Thai To D1 Ly Tu Trong B4. C4 Ngo Duc Ke C5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2. B3. C3. C5 C4 C2. B5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3 Le Loi C4 Le Quoc Hung D4. E4 Ky Con C4. B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3. D5 A3. C2. D4 B3. B5. C2 Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4. B3. D3 Dien Bien Phu A4. B5. A5 Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Man Dat Dist. D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2. C3 D1. E3 Hoang Sa A4. E2 A1. D3 D3. B5 Co Bac D3 Co Giang D3. B4 C2. A2 Khanh Hoi D4. B4 Do Quang Dau D3 Do Thanh C1 Doan Nhu Hai D5 Doan Van Bo D5 Dong Du C5 Dong Khoi B4. E4. E2 D2 B4 D2. E5 D4. C5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi C4 Han Thuyen B4 Ho Hao Hon D3 Ho Tung Mau C4. 3 A2 Huynh Van Banh A1. C2 Dinh Cong Trang A3 Dinh Tien Hoang A4. E3 Ben Van Don D4. D2 Chu Manh Trinh B4. D5 NG Thao Truo ng ONG LE H COMPUTERS Ton That Tung C2. D2. B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3.

5km .AU HI S T O P ha m c Tran QQuuooc Toaann To DISTRICT 3 NA M m hie iN ong Xu D IEN HU NP BIE ho oT Ng hie iN H Tru ong m nD ye nT ye gu MANN G TH TAM Ng u ng Din h Th u Ng Kh oa Hua ong u Tr Ly T h han Le T n uy Lu u I LO LE ghiieep uan N Do ng oD Tr Hai en Nguy Cong u Kh oi e cK ieu Tru Tr N GU Don Van NNEL THU THIEM TU To ong Tru H un g N Doan i hu Ha g Hoan NH THA TAT y en Le Q uoc VinaExpress .com | August 2015 Word | 167 Ch ieu V Qu yen Ng Va P ha nK NG UY EN Xo m Tru ong st eur DIN H Le Van Tam Park U PH IEN B Phu N ng DIE uo c nQ Tra Pa AU HI S T O Ma iT Han Huynnhh M Maan Dat V uc H o an g Sa UC TH ANG hanh Toa n Cua Thi T uy Tu INH E TPhan Van TON D c Chan Ca u on hC Di n ng ra gT nH GH TN E I V g on RUN G Ph uy e TON DUC T HANG AT Ng uy en Hu u M an Ng u Ph an Ly V Thac h Truoonng Sa Hooaang Sa Sa c go V en uy Ng Hi AI a B Phan Va Van an Ha Han N en Quaanng Khaaii Tran Qu Tan Dinh Market 5 BINH THANH N U PH uy in h ran QQuuaanng Khaaii Tra TTr Ngguyen PPhhi Khanh N DIE N BIE Ng hT a Tran Kh uy en NG HA HT N CHI LY Huyn DDuuat t Tran Nhaat Ng 3 DDIINH TIEN HO HOANG Ng uy en Va n Du Traann KKhhaannnhh 4 Gia Dinh Hospital 1.The Hydrofoil Service YEN Ng u Nh a i Vung Tau Diieeu nh ha hK Ba HAM NGGHHI Sa ch Ho H Ng Ton Duc Thang Museum Du o Bu HU E n Na m Vin Ca o UY EN B en Doa nV an B ng u D ie u D ie h Vin Tan Don Van NG i Th & Highway 1 3km r teu Pa s Tra i hang uc K h Th g uon oi hH an B en T Ngo V a am ng D huo en C Kh ong i hoa C Du ng Hoa nK B en ng huo t ha p hie c Ma tD Cong KKiieeuu Le Cong Hoa uy e ua ng Do Tha inh Dan Sinh Market ru g T Ky C o on Cn n e guy B Huyn HIA B hai T Ton g Ng Ch N EN UY on hT ieu nS y e Th gu i G NG TH AN G Tha iV an Lu ng h Ng u yen h Vinh Cha n An at Ph an Th Le in Ch ian Tri nh Opera House n To UC NH CA U HU Saigon Bridge uc n oi TR UN Zoo & Botanical Gardens UY EN BIN HK HIE M te Ho BA et lm Ca Co Kh ang nL Va n Bac Co hu Ha o G Co Xu N ng G ia nT uy e si Yer Dinh A GD UN gu ye nK ha cN am Ng HA I an Th Le am Th De Ho H G ng uM anh TO ND ng Tro Tu Ly Tru c Ben Thanh Market C HO AN TRN en DISTRICT 1 en Tru ng Ton o hi H eT AI TH O Tr Trinh L EN UY en Cu en NG m Tha De u Da ng i Bui V en uy st eur Saigon Bus Station 23/99 Park 23/ 23 a Qu Thai Binh Market Con gQ u yn h uy Du Du Do ng Pa PHA AM M HHOONG TTHHA AII ao Ngu L Pham ang Tra n Can h Duc Ba i Tra i Le La N UA Central Post Office NG HOI N D LE Re-unification Palace Le Thhii RRiieenng en g uy HTV Television Chi N UA Cathedral ED i Le La Tun g IM NG Ton an Xu hi iT e es od Rh Huy en en D TH I HA au gM Tun Bu Nguy Tran NH AI KH Tru o y Ngu nh NG EN UY K INH Ho A et uy Ng Ma cD inh an oV L 30 Thang 4 yen u Park Han Th Tra nC ong Labour Culture Chu HCMC Palace a Conservatory of Music n u Ng d re nd xa Ale Do Cao T hang cC ua A Tan MI Hoa Lu Stadium G st eur KH OI NG HI I TH Tra a nC KH IEM Ch Tao Dan Park Kha nh Quo NG EN UY RU NG en OA N K KY Huu Na m n Va Vo h n uy BIN H oD Ph Luo ng Th at cT hao hac BA T Ng hie hC Din Lu u NAM g on Su War Remnants Museum in u Ng Ba Huy e u n Tha nh Die hi Q A NG KY u hie hC Tan Ton Quo Ng uy en Gia Th ieu Din h g on Hu an u oX CAC H n Va Vo Tra n ho o TL Ng e Qu yD on Pa cT Kh ac Kh oa en NH hu nT hi inh o District 7 & Nha Be Kha nh DISTRICT 4 Ton D an Tu Ng o HA I uy TIE eB XO Saigon South 4km wordvietnam.

đặc biệt là cho giáo dục bổ trợ. Giới trẻ đang ngày càng tránh các lịch học truyền thống. Rockit hy vọng có thể bổ trợ giáo dục đại học Việt Nam và giúp sinh viên và các chuyên gia trẻ chuẩn bị vững chắc tham gia lực lượng lao động toàn cầu một cách nhanh chóng. Thật khó để bỏ qua sự tương tác đó". Hiền cho rằng tất cả mô hình Rockit là để học tập tích cực. cô nói. nhu cầu cho sự phát triển chuyên nghiệp đang trên đà tăng. hệ thống giáo dục đại học của Việt Nam yếu nhất trong khu vực. sinh viên và giáo viên sẽ giao tiếp thông qua video. cô đem đến sự hướng dẫn và nền giáo dục mà cô rất biết ơn đã nhận được lúc còn đi học. "Giáo dục Việt đã không mở cửa đón nhận những ý tưởng mới hoặc người chơi mới. mà nhìn vào giáo viên và các bạn cùng lớp. Rockit là người mở đường. hội thoại và chat. Ai sẽ bước vào được nếu nó không tự mở ra trước?". Đội ngũ giáo viên của Rockit từ khắp nơi trên thế giới. Sau khi khởi chạy thành công Golden Path Academics." Hiền giải thích. Hiền nói. với nguồn tài nguyên bị tổn hại và phương pháp lỗi thời.9 tỷ đồng) tài trợ từ các nhà đầu tư ở Thung Lũng Silicon. có giá thấp hơn. Vì vậy. Khi tuyển dụng. Hiền đang thay đổi hệ thống giáo dục của Việt Nam thông qua công nghệ. 168 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Kỹ Năng Mềm Trong khi Rockit chủ yếu cung cấp các khóa học tiếng Anh. Việc tuân thủ phương pháp giảng dạy truyền thống. nhưng với chất lượng tương đương.000 USD (10. trường học hoặc đại học. nhưng họ có một sự hiểu biết vững chắc về cách sinh viên Việt Nam học tập. Đội ngũ Rockit sẽ gọi cho sinh viên thông báo trước mỗi lớp học và số buổi học họ đã không tham gia. nhưng không phải theo cách mà bạn đã biết Hình ảnh: Vũ Bảo Khánh P hương pháp học trong lớp đã quá lỗi thời. Ở Việt Nam. người sáng lập đồng thời là CEO của Rockit Online. Nhiều sinh viên tốt nghiệp đại học nhưng thậm chí không biết làm thế nào để viết một CV. mong muốn sự linh hoạt và tiện lợi. "bạn không nhìn vào máy tính. "Công nghệ giáo dục giúp cho các nhà giáo dục tiếp cận sinh viên vì họ không còn cần một lớp học. điều này rất khó quản lý đối với các lớp học trong lớp thông thường. mặc dù đội ngũ giáo viên Việt Nam đã từng học (hoặc đang học) ở nước ngoài chiếm đa số. một công ty giáo dục tư vấn và cung cấp kỹ năng học tập cho sinh viên Việt Nam chuẩn bị học tập ở nước ngoài.Tiêng Viêt Cùng Học với Rockit Học tiếng Anh. Tất cả điều này làm cho sự thay đổi từ các lớp học truyền thống đến máy tính là không thể tránh khỏi. Năm 2014. giá cả phải chăng và thuận tiện." cô giải thích. Rockit cung cấp các lớp học nhỏ thông qua một cổng thông tin trực tuyến. Hiền chuyển sự quan tâm của mình vào Internet với sự ra mắt của Rockit Online vào năm 2013. Hiền ví lớp học truyền thống Việt Nam như một cái hộp kín. cho rằng phương pháp khởi động sẽ là một thách thức mới cho mô hình lớp học truyền thống. Đào Thu Hiền. Rockit giành được 500. giáo viên và sách giáo khoa làm cho việc học hành trở nên rất khó tiếp nhận.cô nói. cô nói. Chi phí ít hơn so với các trung tâm tiếng Anh cạnh tranh khách. Hiền lớn lên ở Hà Nội nhưng theo đuổi đại học tại Hoa Kỳ. Khi bạn dạy hoặc học thông qua Internet. Giờ đây trở lại Việt Nam. Các lớp học nhỏ cho phép Rockit nhấn mạnh kỷ luật trong việc học ngôn ngữ. Các lớp học được giới hạn ở mức năm sinh viên. Rockit nhấn mạnh chất lượng và sự bám sát của giáo viên với sinh viên. Khóa học video nằm trong danh mục các khóa học của Rockit đang ngày càng tăng. "Sự sẵn sàng trong công việc đang thiếu. — Noey Neumark . "Tầm nhìn của tôi cho phát triển lâu dài sẽ là một chương trình giáo dục phục vụ người dân ở nhiều khía cạnh cho sự nghiệp và cuộc sống của họ." . Phản bác lại những quan ngại về sự gia tăng của chứng 'nghiện màn hình'. Nhóm hiện đang gây quỹ cho sự kiện sắp tới này. Theo Hiền. Công ty phấn đấu thực hiện một nền giáo dục bổ trợ dễ tiếp cận. "Tôi muốn giúp người học kiên trì vào một cái gì đó họ đã bắt đầu". sinh viên đủ khả năng có thể sẽ được tuyển dụng sau các khóa học trực tuyến. hiện nay hơn bao giờ hế Con Đường Phát Triển Với Rockit.

Ông tìm thấy sự chấp nhận. Zaborac tìm thấy sự viên mãn. tất cả cái ông nhìn thấy là lòng tốt và sự chân thành. sự gắn kết hai nước kéo dài trong bốn thập kỷ đã được tạo ra. chào đón ông với các loại bia. Zaborac cuối cùng nhìn lên và nhìn vào mắt một người trong số họ. vào lúc nghỉ ngắn uống bia của ông tại dặm 20. Kỷ niệm 40 năm hòa bình ở Việt Nam. Cháy nắng.h n ì B a ò H ì V ạy Ch y gia chạ m a h t ời gàn ngư n g n à H àn ông.000 vận động viên nghiệp dư và 1.500 vận động viên marathon chuyên nghiệp tham gia. ông cảm thấy không thoải mái. ông cảm nhận một tình bạn thân thiết duy nhất tồn tại khi thấy bạn cùng chạy cuối cùng cũng sống sót qua 26. Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng là sự kiện đầu tiên được IAAF-AIMS (Hiệp Hội Quốc Tế của Liên Đoàn Điền Kinh và Hiệp hội Marathon Quốc Tế và Đua Đường Dài) chứng nhận tại Việt Nam. Trong khoảnh khắc đó. Trước sự ngạc nhiên của mình. nhiều hơn so với khoảng thời gian ông đã trải qua chiến đấu với họ.300. — Diana Truong Thông Tin NGÀY: 30/08/2015 THỜI GIAN: 04:00 đến 11:00 CẤP ĐỘ: Người chạy có thể đăng ký cho ba loại cấp độ — marathon toàn phần. Zaborac được gửi về nhà đột ngột sau khi chiến tranh kết thúc. ông trở lại Đà Nẵng để chạy marathon và để giải quyết các việc chưa hoàn thành từ cuộc hành trình trước mà ông đã bỏ lại ở đất nước bị chiến tranh tàn phá này. cuối cùng ông cũng đã hiểu điều gì đó về người Việ wordvietnam. Họ cố gắng trấn an ông rằng họ không oán hận. các nhà tổ chức dự đoán sẽ có 5. Và Zaborac là người thật thà. Dennis Zaborac buông mình vào một chiếc ghế trống tại một quán cà phê ngoài trời bận rộ | August 2015 Word | 169 . ông đã muốn giữ lại những thông tin như mình là người Mỹ và rằng ông đã chiến đấu ở đây.000 đồng đến 2. phồng rộp. Khi ông nhìn về phía cuối đường đua. Ngồi tại quán cafe với bia trên tay. ông cảm thấy như mình đã để lại một số việc chưa hoàn thành ở Việt Nam. Khi ông đến Đà Nẵng lần đầu tiên trong 42 năm để tham gia Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng. Nhưng quan trọng nhất. Ông thấy nhẹ nhõm. Bốn thập kỷ sau.000 đồng HOTLINE: 0919 327323 EMAIL: info@pulse.500 người chạy và 400 vận động viên chuyên nghiệp tham gia từ 25 quốc gia và vùng lãnh thổ khác nhau. Nhưng những người trẻ này đã rất tò mò. "Đây là lần đầu tiên ông tới Việt Nam?" Ông ít khi chia sẻ những trải nghiệm trước kia về đất nước này. "Ông từ đâu tới?" và. ông không còn cảm thấy như mình đang bước vào lãnh thổ của đối phương. ông thấy bao quanh mình là một vài người địa phương trẻ tuổi nào đó. một người đàn ông địa phương đã hỏi Zaborac hai câu hỏi để bắt chuyện. bạn bè mới của Zaborac từ chỗ nghỉ ở dặm 20 đã cổ vũ nhiệt tình khi ông về tới đích. ông cảm thấy mình đã sẵn sàng và tươi trẻ lại. Sau một năm đóng quân tại Cửa Đại gần Hội An. và cuối cùng khi ông đứng dậy để chạy sáu dặm cuối cùng. nửa chặng và 5km chạy vui LỆ PHÍ: Từ 210. Không Chỉ Là Cuộc Marathon Năm WEBSITE: rundanang.2 dặm trong cái nóng ẩm của Việt Nam. Năm ngoái. đ i ờ ư g n ủa một c n ệ y u Câu ch HÌNH ẢNH ĐƯỢC CUNG CẤP BỞI PULSE ACTIVE T ại dặm 20. mệt mỏi và mất nước. Thay vào đó. có 3. Zaborac dành 20 phút tiếp theo để trò chuyện với những người bạn mới của mình. 42 năm sau khi đột ngột ra đi. chủ đề của Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng là Run for Peace (Tạm dịch là Chạy vì Hòa Bình).

com thiết bị y tế cho các bệnh viện địa phương. và điều đó vẫn ấn tượng cho Chris tới ngày hôm nay. ông đã bị choáng ngợp bởi hoàn cảnh của những người không được hưởng những điều kiện y tế thích hợp. Thoát chết. nơi họ khuyến khích mọi người giúp đỡ một đứa trẻ nào đó.com . Ông nhớ lại chuyến thăm đầu tiên của ông tới bệnh viện mắt Điện Biên Phủ tại Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh. Đó là một vấn đề và không phải là điều dễ làm. Theo đó. Khi ông kể về một trong những tác động đầu tiên khiến ông làm công việc này. trước khi gửi họ trở về đóng góp cho quê nhà. Ông đến Việt Nam ba lần một năm. ông liên lạc với Fred Hollows. Nhiệm vụ tiếp theo của Heart Reach là một thuyền cứu thương cho các khu vực Bến Tre — quê hương của Mai. Nhờ một trong tám máy lọc máu được hiến tặng — cái máy đầu tiên đã tới Sài Gòn chỉ hai tuần trước vụ tai nạn — mà cô ấy cò thể hoàn toàn bình phục. Khi trở về Úc. một bác sĩ phẫu thuật mắt nổi tiếng đã từng được chính phủ Úc khen thưởng. Trong số rất nhiều hoạt động. Để biết thêm công việc của họ trong 25 năm qua và nỗ lực hỗ trợ gây quỹ hiện nay của Heart Reach. Ngày mai. họ giờ đây tài trợ cho các bác sĩ địa phương được đến Úc đào tạo. cô ấy viết hai từ duy nhất bằng tiếng Anh mà cô ấy biết "Cám ơn" gửi cho ông. Đó là một lời hứa mà ông không có ý định phá vỡ. ông thấy những đứa trẻ tầm sáu tháng tuổi mắc các bệnh về mắt mà có thể tránh được như bệnh tăng nhãn áp và đục thủy tinh thể. Một chiếc thuyền cứu thương sẽ thay đổi điều đó. Heart Reach đã chuyển hướng quan tâm sang vấn đề khác. Nhờ đó. Hãy tưởng tượng một người phụ nữ 20 tuổi bị xe tải đâm — chiếc xe bỏ đi và để mặc lại người phụ nữ ấy. Ở đó. Cô là một trong hàng trăm người được hưởng tài trợ của Heart Reach. Mai đã được có cơ hội tiếp cận với giấc mơ học tập và việc làm của mình. Trong một chuyến đi với các nhà thờ Thiên Chúa giáo vào năm 1990. ông mất một ít phút để chuẩn bị. Fred nói ông hãy liên lạc với người đứng đầu của các bệnh viện lớn ở quê nhà.Tiêng Viêt Tổ Chức Heart Reach Australia Một phần tư thế kỷ hỗ trợ người Việt Nam C hris O'Dempsey đã làm điều đó xảy ra cho một số người nghèo nhất ở Việt Nam trong 25 năm qua. Nếu không có vận tải y tế khẩn cấp đường sông và các bộ y tế sơ cứu trong khu vực của sông Cửu Long. và ông đã làm. sẽ có nhiều người chết trước khi kịp đến bệnh viện. một thiếu nữ 18 tuổi từ Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long. hãy vào heartreachaustralia. cô ấy sẽ đến RMIT với hy vọng giành được một suất học bổng cần thiết. Chris cho hay. giáo dục đầy đủ hoặc việc làm. Ban đầu chỉ tập trung vào việc cung cấp các trang thiết bị y tế. thậm chí lập gia đình ở đây. Chris ngay lập tức hình thành Project Vietnam (Dự Án Việt Nam). Chris bắt đầu gửi các trang 170 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. tiền thân của Heart Reach Australia bây giờ. ông đã hứa sẽ có nó trước 01/12 năm nay. trả tiền đào tạo cho họ. Mối Quan Hệ Lâu Dài Khi chúng tôi gặp nhau tại khách sạn New World Sài Gòn — khách sạn đã tài trợ Heart Reach kể từ năm 2012 — ông dắt Mai theo.

cho tới 30/08. Với bản pop electro trance thiên tài Beautiful Now. Vé tiêu chuẩn cho đêm diễn True Colors là 550. cùng là người đoạt giải Grammy cho thu âm nhạc dance xuất sắc nhất. Để biết thêm thông tin. Những người đến thành phố kiếm sống. Vào cửa miễn phí. Ba Đình lúc 18:00 ngày thứ Năm Tháng 13/08. xin ghé mned. Đêm diễn sẽ bắt đầu từ 21:00. đôi lúc là cho đến tám người. Sơn thể hiện những vấn đề của từng cá nhân trong nền công nghiệp hóa ở Việt Nam.000 đồng. chúng tôi tự tin sự kiện này sẽ thu hút đông người tham dự.19:00. tiếp theo anh sẽ đến Philippines. tiêu đề của cuộc triển lãm là không gian sống tối thiểu ở Việt Nam trong thời kỳ nền kinh tế trước khi Đổi Mới. Và anh sắp đến thành phố. Người nghệ sỹ này cho hay: "Sau nửa thế kỷ vật lộn. 56-58 Nguyễn Thái Học. Tây Hồ. Ba Đình Từ thứ Năm 13/08 Viện Goethe Hà Nội sẽ tổ chức cuộc triển lãm ảnh sắp đặt mang tên 8m2 từ 13/08 do nghệ sỹ danh tiếng Nguyễn Thế Sơn. Hidalgo sẽ trình diễn các nhạc phẩm trong album thứ hai của mình có tên gọi là Part of the Asi Es. lần biểu diễn này của Zedd nằm trong một phần của chuyến lưu diễn True Colors ở Châu Á." Thông qua cuộc triển lãm ảnh sắp đặt.bandcamp. Kết hợp giữa cây đàn guitar cổ điển với hiệu ứng Zedd: Chuyến Lưu Diễn True Colors 8m2 Viện Goethe Hà Nội.MiNombreEsDolores! Cộng Cà Phê. Để biết thêm chi tiết về MiNombreEsDolores!. nhưng nó không phải là 8m2 cho chỉ một người. Tây Hồ Thứ Bảy 08/08 Nhạc sỹ Chi-lê Matias Hidalgo với nghệ danh là MiNombreEsDolores! sẽ biểu diễn tại Cộng Cà Phê ở Hồ Tây vào thứ Bảy ngày 08/08. Thái Lan và Nhật Bản. nhiều người dân vẫn phải trăn trở trong 8m2 đó. Dự án này ghi lại các góc nhỏ của môi trường sống và giúp người lao động có một tiếng nói bằng cách kết hợp đồ đạc cá nhân của họ vào các tác phẩm nghệ thuật của mình. vé khu vực VIP sẽ bao gồm chi phí đảm bảo khá | August 2015 Word | 171 . xin vào zeddhcmc. đêm diễn sẽ được thể hiện bằng giọng hát pha trộn hai ngôn ngữ mà anh gọi là tiếng Anh của người Tây Ban Nha. Vissay. Sau đó nó sẽ tiếp tục đón khách tham quan mỗi ngày từ 09:00 . Triển lãm sẽ khai mạc tại viện Goethe. Thể hiện môi trường sống của người lao động nhập cư. Tham gia cùng với đêm nhạc quen thuộc của nhạc sỹ kiêm diễn viên Việt Nam. Sân Golf Rạch Chiếc. thường xuyên phải sống trong điều kiện khắc nghiệt như thế trong nhiều năm. là nghệ sỹ có sản phẩm âm nhạc được bán ra đạt đĩa bạch kim. Biểu diễn tại địa điểm có một không hai của một sân golf. Cộng Cà Phê nằm ở số 100 Xuân Diệu. Q2 Thứ Sáu 07/08 Zedd là một Dj kiêm nhà sản xuất nhạc.

Jarai and M’Nong. told them the exact layout of the post and agreed to drive them back in. three Vietnamese and four tribesmen. having practiced the three ‘withs’ policy of “work with. I accepted only 75 of the toughest and most decided. a key area of the Tay Nguyen (Western Highlands) or Hauts Plateaux. Thuot was encircled by ‘agricultural settlements’ to which Vietnamese ‘suspects’ from the plains had been exiled to carve out rubber and coffee plantations for the Diem family. His whole family was wiped out in Quang Nam in the early stages of the anti-French war. Tran Dinh Minh had recruited some old friends. Why not try and use the Diemist uniforms to infiltrate and capture the arms from a post?” Just after dusk one evening. By the end of 1961.” Minh told me. while I talked to them. Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. the sentry at the gate let them through. though he had served as a ‘liaison agent’ from the age of 13. It is also has the biggest concentration of ethnic minorities in southern Vietnam — mainly the Rhade. His fiancée was arrested and killed by the Diemists. there would be no labour troubles. Within a few days. get them to lay down their arms immediately and then listen to a statement on Front policy. And it was no more difficult to organise the plantation workers than it was the exiles and tribes’ people. clad in Diemist officer’s National Front was formed. Our men seized the arms and took up appropriate positions.” The garrison troops were peasant conscripts. the soldiers were with us. Otherwise he would be killed on the spot. language and dress. in the same month the 172 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. Their guns were piled up in a corner and we grabbed them and the captain simultaneously. M. “and found him sitting on a bed. Buon Me Thuot is near enough to the borders of Cambodia and Laos to make it of vital importance. At first I was very disappointed. ordered the captain to assemble his men. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh. We had driven into the settlement.” as advocated by President Ho Chi Minh. playing a guitar. We moved out with 112 men. “We drove straight to the captain’s quarters.” Around B. when I met him. He knew the general area. M. a fact that U. Tran Dinh Minh was Vietnamese but had lived in the Tay Nguyen for 14 years.” Tran Dinh Minh related. “Our main job. a force of eight with one pistol and seven knives. M. He was a child of the revolution. At the time Minh started operating. It was he. eat with. Minh being far too good a tactician. although there was another military post only about a mile away. I promoted my seven raw recruits to squad leaders on the spot and put the new men under them. A vast area with plateaux suitable for airfields. but as we only had the 30 weapons just captured and had no real base or supply system. The rest of the platoon came out of their barracks. Over 400 young men begged to be taken into our ranks. Minh and the ‘armed propaganda teams’ he formed soon developed united action between Vietnamese and tribes’ people against a common oppressor. He was the ideal man for the task in hand — but it was a tall order to be sent alone. their food. only uniforms. then I had an idea. Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. however. with one pistol.” he told me. as the French call the area. he learnt five of the tribal languages and was adopted as a ‘son’ by several of the tribes. This work was written in 1964 Struggle Around Buon Me Thuot Buon Me Thuot is a strategic centre in Dak Lak. But it was difficult to do anything at all without arms. B. a submachine gun and 28 rifles. several of the tribes. “was to establish ourselves in the hearts of the people. a division plus one regiment. One day. there were 11 French plantations around the city with 5. to use his control over the rubber workers to the detriment of the French plantation owners and managers. and not Saigon. He had adopted the tribes’ people’s customs. live with. to encircle Buon Me Thuot with NFL bases. they stopped a truck that had just emerged from one of the ‘agricultural settlements’ and was heading towards B. like most of the Diemist troops. B. was the headquarters base for the 4th Diemist army corps. some of his soldiers dancing western style to the music. piled up their arms and assembled in the garrison square. “They could hardly believe their eyes and ears when they saw and heard us. That was in December 1960. having volunteered for service there because he was too young and small to bear arms in the anti-French war. as the name is usually written on maps. After Saigon. Buon Me Thuot is the second most important military centre. military men in Saigon had not overlooked. but there were no arms.000 Vietnamese from the plains. Since they were in Diemist uniform. Altogether 2. We explained that we were from the NFL. knew the people and was trusted by them. After volunteering for work in Dak Lak. M. Long before I had finished. Thuot. All 29 joined up and offered to help organise a meeting of the settlement inmates.S.The Final Say THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 11: In the Western Highlands For the next five issues. each of whom had a sheath knife. The driver proved to be friendly.700 people gathered. That is the only way we recognise of establishing a base. Thuot. forest and plantations alternate in checkerboard fashion. Thuot.000 Vietnamese workers and six ‘agricultural settlements’ with 25. Each of these was controlled by a military post set up within the settlement itself. Minh succeeded in setting up bases in all of them. we ambushed a Diemist lorry. We carried off as many as we could. were competing to find him a suitable mate. “People actually wept for joy when we explained who we were. who on behalf of the NFL. collected their taxes with the tacit understanding that if the French behaved correctly. since the age of 14. Diemist control had been . | August 2015 Word | 173 . adopt other political and social yardsticks” wordvietnam. I believe it is impossible. too.Wildred Burchett and a group of people in a Rhade village “I wondered whether the mentality of the Saigon regime could ever win [the tribes’ people’s] confidence. advisers. and that goes for the U. They would have to recast their thinking.

In documents captured by the guerillas there were hints that it should be developed as a last-ditch bastion in the event of a threat to Saigon. According to the plan. weapons. “Over a thousand of us assembled and our hearts were heavy. Thuot District. Underground arms depots and a complex of installations and fortifications had been built. a village less than 3km from B. the cats come to kill the mouse. He seemed to be a military man but was dressed like a French priest. But in doing this they also harm your paddy.” Ybih AIeo said. We knew the Americans help Diem. He was old. there is never any further news’” . But he said he was not a priest. We will give you weapons to deal with both. bicycles. The Viet Cong is the mouse. “Our tribes’ people were ordered to go to B.” recounted the elder. the agricultural settlements were to be brought under control again and the inmates as well as the tribes’ people in the strategic hamlets would be armed to defend themselves against the Viet Cong. ‘The authorities are terrified because they know the NFL have their armed forces all around the town and bases inside as well. we did not want their “Our people talked this over but we were all suspicious. Now you want to lock us up. the most authoritative leader of the 37 minority groups in the Tay Nguyen and himself from B. Once a person is arrested. ‘We will help you become really independent. Better pull the triggers now so we die all together. as it was put in the captured documents. it is your own fault. ‘I am sent by Christ to help you. M. no harm will be done by either cat or mouse. Ybih Aleo. and arms to defend yourselves against any evildoer — we will give you all these. If the mouse smuggles itself into your paddy.” he continued. Eay Teo was very angry. We have always defended ourselves in the old way. Diemist troops surrounded us with their arms pointed at our backs. But if you block the mouse coming into your paddy. “It was a clever line. but everyone knew him: ‘We tribes’ people.’ he said. climbed onto the platform of a hut and started to speak. “‘Either you agree to concentrate immediately or the troops will be sent against all your villages tomorrow. a grizzled and grey French-trained military veteran and vice president of the NFL. were killed. but mine is the ‘new’ religion of the ‘new Americans.” Wilfred Burchett with the Mnong minority 174 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. But then the old man.S. the governor of the province and the chiefs of all the districts. These were the new instructions that came with direct U. “We were all sad. Thuot. In a few days more than a thousand troops came to their area. no concentration and no weapons. The new plan was to concentrate as many of the tribal people as they could in ‘strategic hamlets’. The ‘old’ Americans and the Diemists behave like cats.’ “We were confused.” I heard a more detailed account from an elder of one of the villages. I Bru of Buon Dju village. nearly 70. ‘New’ Americans Buon Ea Nao.’ he said. “This American spoke Rhade and called himself Eay (Father) Teo.’ said Eay Teo. the people are terrorized because the place is crawling with police and agents who are empowered to arrest or kill any ‘Viet Cong’ suspect on the spot. Cloth. was selected as the main camp for concentrating the minorities and instructing them in the use of U. now others come and say they oppose him. We did not want to be concentrated. ‘But you must not help either the Diemists or the Viet Cong. ‘If you refuse to take arms and the ‘old’ Americans and Diemists come to kill you. “it is this way. Every village was supposed to send its elders for political indoctrination and ten ablebodied men for military training to protect themselves against ‘wild beasts’. This ‘new’ American looked just like the ‘old’ ones.’ he said. The Americans by this time were very concerned with the situation. In that case we will slowly die. We will give you everything you need and you will come into new homes we will help build.’ “‘You see’.’ he said.removed from the agricultural settlements and the military posts were eliminated. told me that the Diemists avoided saying they were to be armed against the Liberation Front or Viet Cong because they knew any derogatory remarks would have alienated the tribes’ people.S.’ The district chief strode up to “‘[Buon Me Thuot] is a town of fear and terror. Everyone looked at the ground for there seemed no hope. rice. M. M. Now you have your troops and guns around us. another wall to take the ‘first shock’ of Viet Cong attacks. Eay Teo was there. Five villages were burnt and 20 people. The village refused both the concentration and the weapons. away from our trees and forests. “It took into account the fact that the Diemist troops were completely discredited because of their atrocities against the people. salt. M. Thuot again and to be ready to accept concentration. said this Eay Teo. you can block the cat also. intervention at the end of 1961. mainly children and old people. they still had big plans for B. So we said. Thuot. ‘always lived with our forests and brooks and trees. “He said he was a ‘new’ American and that the ‘new’ Americans were against the ‘old’ Americans who helped the Diemists hurt our people.

about the size and shape of Gibbs’ tooth powder tins. There was no place to keep cattle within the barbed wire perimeter. Hunting was finished. About this time. the Diemists started planting ‘Gibbs’ and ‘fountain pen’ bombs in the minority villages. that the tinderbox situation was the real one. according to Ybih Aleo. “They belong to the revolution. one of many young Vietnamese who settled in Tay Nguyen in the mid 1940s him: ‘If you disagree with the government. because the Diemists suspected these were signals to the Viet Cong.’ “‘If you are killed. Now you may go home. ‘you lose your villa. Life for the tribes’ people gradually took on the pattern of that of the Red Indians in the reservations the Americans devised for those that survived the wholesale massacres of the 19th century. your plantation. Normally the tribes’ people leave the village in time to get in a full day’s work at their fields between sunrise and sunset. The new regime was imposed to prevent contacts with the Viet Cong in the forest. the area immediately surrounding B. it was also forbidden to beat gongs or drums. Next day people from 20 villages met to honour the old man. By the end of 1963. Intervillage visits to celebrate each others’ feasts. The tribes’ people took a pledge that they would carry on the fight as the old man had done and it was agreed that only when there was no more forest and the brooks had dried up would the Rhade people allow themselves to be concentrated. Raiding parties. “After an enemy raid and the people returned to their homes. The second were shaped like Parker fountain pens. Everyone rushed forward to save the old man. the Diemists had pulled back to an approximate radius of wordvietnam. you will all be killed. what could you hope to hunt within a kilometer of the village? After a major effort by the Diemist regime in 1962. dragged the old man off and killed him. Local officials ordered the tribes’ people to halt rice-growing and cultivate jute instead — the Americans could supply rice more cheaply. M. you old fool. M. “Though they could fence in our villages. The fountain pen bombs were strewn around in the grass and a child picking one up would have his or her hands blown off. Despite this. And if you continue to speak like that you will be killed first. the Americans. the most popular form of social intercourse among the tribes’ people.’ shouted old man I Bru. now. The first was a tiny flat pressure mine. under a bed or table or a cooking pot or the bamboo strips that served as a floor in the tribes’ people’s huts.” Life on the Reservation The incident with I Bru took place at the end of 1961 and by February 1962 a partial economic blockade was in place. his chest thrust out to receive the bullets. trying to smile but his lips were twisted. If I am killed. apparently as a reprisal for the traps with which the tribes’ people were defending their homes and cultivation patches. shouting. troops came from a nearby post.” the elder concluded. some of the villages near B. Thuot — including the agricultural settlements — was brought back under Saigon’s nominal control. threw it in the face of the district chief and stood there naked. ‘Why all the noise? Why all the excitement?’ he said. they could not fence in our hearts. would conceal Gibbs bombs | August 2015 Word | 175 . I lose this only. which found hamlets empty when they arrived.” Ybih Aleo said. Then Eay Teo spoke up again. your beautiful women. ‘No concentration! No concentration!’ Officials were swept off their feet and the soldiers made their guns ready. cries and groans until late at night. Thuot were soon fenced around and turned into strategic hamlets. ‘We invited you to hear your opinions. your fine car. were banned. From that period.Nguyen Han Chung.’ and he snatched off his loin cloth.’” That night. The first step was the stopping of salt supplies. There was tremendous excitement. Even though the men only wore loincloths and the women only ankle-length skirts. there were explosions. they were submitted to the indignity of being searched as they left and entered the stockades. but it was obvious from all I could see and hear. February to March 1962. so these were abandoned to the tigers.

six miles from B. M. Thuot, and the city
itself had been converted into a sort of
medieval fortress, surrounded by a series
of three, nine-foot high palisades, 20 yards
between the outer and second wall, ten
yards between the second and third. Inside,
the town was divided up into sub-sections,
each of which was also walled off. Between
the palisades were moats filled with spiked
obstacles. Even individual houses were
surrounded by spike-filled ditches with a
plank leading to the entrance that had to be
taken up at night. The main victims were
the people themselves, their children, dogs
and pigs. The spikes had to be uncovered
after sunset and could only be covered again
when the gongs sounded at 6am.
At least, this was part of a detailed
account given me of life in B. M. Thuot
by a journalist who smuggled himself out
of the city especially to contact me. “It is
a town of fear and terror,” he said. “The
authorities are terrified because they know
the NFL have their armed forces all around
the town and bases inside as well, despite
all the precautions; the people are terrorized
because the place is crawling with police and
agents who are empowered to arrest or kill
any ‘Viet Cong’ suspect on the spot. Once a
person is arrested, there is never any further

The Jarai Revolt
The great centres of the tribe people of the
Western Highlands are, in addition to B. M.
Thuot, Pleiku in Gia Lai and Kontum. As far
as I could find out, the first act of rebellion
in the Tay Nguyen took place in November
1960, among the Jarai in Gia Lai. I heard
about it from Rachem H’Ban, a Jarai girl who
was 17 years old at the time of the action.
She is slight and rather sickly-looking, with
a round, olive-skinned face and large holes
in her ears from which ornaments had been
“The trouble started when the Diemists
came to install a new chief of canton in our
hamlet,” she said. “They wanted to use our
village as the centre for a ‘strategic hamlet’.
We objected to this. The Diemists then
started a terror campaign not only against
us but all the Jarai in our district. First they
came and took away four of our young
men. One they killed, a second they kept in
prison, the other two they released. When
they came back we hardly recognised them;
they had been badly tortured. We all met
in the roong [community meeting hall] that
night to talk things over. Life was becoming
impossible. From other villages came news
of our tribes’ people being killed, women
raped, houses burnt, pigs and buffalo stolen.
We decided that to live, we must fight back.”
Two days later, a unit of 11 Diemist troops
came very late at night. They forbade anyone
to leave the village; they went into every
house, collecting knives and crossbows, and
then ordered all the young men to present
themselves. When they came out, eight were
arrested and tied up. The people fought
back for hours; the whole hamlet had turned
out and formed a circle around the troops.

176 | Word August 2015 |

The people had no weapons. The unit chief,
a big brute of a man, fired into the leg of
one of the captured young men and he fell,
blood trickling down his leg. At the sight of
blood everyone was furious. Rachem called
out instructions in Jarai and the women,
who had armed themselves with pieces of
firewood from under the huts, jumped at the
soldiers. Rachem and two others went for
the unit chief, with the first blow knocking
his automatic out of his hands, and then they
strangled him. Five others had already been
clubbed to death, while the rest fled. The
tribes’ people now had five carbines, a light
machine gun, a pistol and lots of cartridges.
By midday the whole hamlet had fled
into the jungle. They took everything they
could carry, but had to leave the cattle. Soon
afterwards an enemy force of about 200 came
and burnt down the village, killing all the
buffalo and cattle. Within ten days the Jarai
had built a new village.
In the new village, first thoughts were
obviously for protection. Like the Kor and
Hre people nearly 18 months previously
in Quang Ngai, they had moved back into
a fairly inaccessible area, but the Diemists
would soon learn where. The young men
set up a self-defense corps, armed with
crossbows, and spent most of their time
preparing defenses; digging ditches for
spikes and preparing all sorts of other
traps along the approaches to the village.
The older people were responsible for
production. Although the village only
comprised 45 houses with a total population
of about 800, the Diemists were never able
to subdue it. But the main thing was that,
following this example, there was a general
uprising of the Jarai people in Le Thanh
and neighboring districts. It was another
illustration of the fact that when repression
in any area reached a certain degree of
intensity, it only needed a spark to touch off
a raging fire.

Ethnic Group Policy
There were many things to learn and
know about the customs and mores of the
tribes’ people and I wondered whether the
mentality of the Saigon regime could ever
win their confidence; whether they were
capable of such detailed, understanding
studies as the Vietnamese liberation cadres
had made. I believe it is impossible, and
that goes for the U.S. advisers, too. They
would have to recast their thinking, adopt
other political and social yardsticks. The
Americans relied on winning over a few
chiefs with baubles of material goods or
offers of power. But the tribes’ people are
sensitive, with a sound instinct for what
is bogus and what is real. It was only after
years of living and working together that
they started opening their hearts even to
those Vietnamese they trusted most.
It was a tremendous advantage for
the NFL that Ho Chi Minh had asked for
volunteers in 1945-46 among young people
of the calibre of Tran Dinh Minh, Nguyen
Han Chung and others I met, to go to the
Tay Nguyen area prepared to spend the rest

of their lives there. Not only had they sunk
their roots deep down into the minds and
hearts of the tribes’ people, but they had
compiled registers of all clan names and
inter-clan relationships. Later, these were of
vital importance in extending NFL influence
in the Tay Nguyen.
A new era in relations between
Vietnamese proper and the minority peoples
started during the anti-French resistance war
because for the first time the tribes’ people
met outsiders who treated them as equals,
under the policy laid down by the Viet Minh.
They had always been treated as ‘savages’
before and indeed the only term I heard
applied to them by Westerners was moi
which I took to be a common term for all the
tribes. Later I discovered it was Vietnamese
for savage.
“In general, we still do not interfere in
customs,” I was told by Nguyen Han Chung,
a Vietnamese who had spent his adult life
among the tribes’ people. “But the minorities
are influenced by the way we live. They ask
many searching questions. Gradually many
of the more damaging customs are dying
“Our slogan for them is ‘anti-puppet,
anti-imperialist’ and in these they support
us with all their hearts. If we have been
accepted as brothers, this is because those of
us who have lived amongst them for years
have tried to grasp and understand their
customs and never, never to violate them.
“The only thing is that, as occasion
offers, we try and show them why they are
unhappy, why their life is miserable. At first
they answer that it is ‘the will of God’. Bit by
bit we have showed them that it is not that.
They argued that ‘God seated the tribes’
people and ordained that they should be
unhappy, that they should be slaves’. So they
are liable to eat up all their rice in feasts after
the harvest, slaughter their cattle for ritual
and starve for the rest of the year. ‘It may
appease the Gods,’ they would say, ‘and in
any case the tax collector would get it.’
“We explained that it was not God, but
in the old days it was the French who made
them give up all the fruits of their labour
in taxes, or took them away for unpaid
labour for months on end. Now it is the U.S.
puppets. Maybe after some weeks they come
back, having thought it all over. They ask
many more questions and the day comes
when they will shout: ‘It’s true, it’s true what
you say. Our land is good, the soil is rich, the
forest is full of elephants. There are riches
all round, but we wear old, tom loincloths.
We could live much better.’ When the truth
dawns on them, they start to weep a lot at
first and then they get angry.”
A major reason for their miseries for
generations past has been the almost
complete lack of any medical or public
health work. Smallpox and dysentery, their
two greatest scourges, have wiped out
whole communities in the past. Vietnamese
cadres told of many instances of coming
across abandoned villages where no one
was left to bury the dead. The few survivors
had set fire to the houses and fled into

An ethnic minority school in the jungle

the forest. I have talked with Jarai, Rhade
and M’Nong tribesmen who have wept as
they told of such calamities that they put
down to the Gods. Their enemies exploited
these superstitions and did everything to
encourage them. At first the French, later
the Diemists, used planes to drop napalm
on dissident villages. Local agents said these
were Kim Phiar, the firebird, dropping his
excrement because God had been displeased
by the tribe’s disobedience. They believed
it until the NFL troops started shooting
down some of these planes and they found
not firebirds but U.S. and Vietnamese pilots
“We feel very moved when talking
with the tribes’ people,” said one veteran
Vietnamese cadre who had been sheltered

by them for many years. “They are so
straightforward, so pure in their thoughts
and expressions. Once they have given their
word, it is for life. They are generous and
honest, and prefer to die or endure the most
terrible tortures rather than ever betray a
“Our Kinh brothers brought us life
and light in our darkness,” one dignified
chief of the Hre people told me. “We will
never abandon them.” These were typical
observations, variants of which I was to
hear time and again in the Tay Nguyen
area. The sending, in 1945-46, of cadres to
live and work in the Tay Nguyen was not
only because of the strategic importance of
having guerilla bases in this natural paradise
for guerilla warfare, but it was in accordance

with a policy of “revolutionary humanism,”
as my Vietnamese friends expressed it, to let
a few rays of life into the lives of the tribes’
Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his
stories about the American War ‘from the other
side’. After years of being at odds with the
Australian government, last year the Melbourne
Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.
Burchett was also the journalist to break the
scoop of the 20th century — the devastation
caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima
and Nagasaki.
Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing
us to republish this work. Please note that some
of the language in this piece has been changed to
reflect its modern-day spelling | August 2015 Word | 177

The Final Say

178 | Word August 2015 |

I ran downstairs and asked the waitress to change the music. Scholars point out that Nostradamus’ vision of the future was so clear that he even knew that The Beach Boys [the young men from the shore] would sing in high-pitched voices [will sing highly. In 1958. 100 and 110 [the great sons will roll over the earth. A Rising Star The 49cc bike [nine and forty teeth] became a global phenomenon thanks to the 1962 US ad campaign. Love Me Like You Do. and the young men from the shore will sing highly of his merits. and has been for more than 50 years. The year 1958. the young bear will emerge from the rising sun. he restores and customises Honda Cubs for a | August 2015 Word | 179 . this particular forecast..THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL The Honda Cub Rises The medieval prophecy behind Vietnam’s best-loved motorbike. A 20-something-year-old Scot living in Hanoi for the last few years.. In a restaurant on the northern lip of West Lake. his great sons will roll over the earth.]. what are you waiting for?” Over and over. It refers to a 1964 song recorded by The Beach Boys called Little Honda. to find out what’s so appealing about this motorbike that is. The wallet is about two inches wordvietnam. Photos by Julie Vola I n the mid-sixteenth century. Eachan had arrived... So far. It turns out this was the one-hour version of Ellie Goulding’s. is eerily accurate. “You meet the nicest people on a Honda” [gentle people will straddle his back]. blah blah like you do. and became the template for lifestyle advertising. and close to an existential crisis (what was I waiting for?). Of course. The Honda 50 was followed by the Honda Super Cub 70. Words by Dara O Foghlu. panned both the books and the movie. Born with nine and forty teeth. from the 50 Shades of Grey soundtrack. However. or why he was interested in motorbike sales figures at all. Join the Cub I was half an hour early for our appointment. He pulled his leather wallet out of his back pocket and sat down. approximately 90 million Honda Cubs have been manufactured worldwide — pretty much equal to the population of Vietnam. Nostradamus never mentioned why people liked the Honda Cub as much as they do. — Century X. is restoring and customising classic models. Across all generations and demographics. (Nostradamus. Quatrain 43 Because of the witch trials. 90. “love me like you do. however. This marketing campaign expanded the image of the motorcycle owner beyond that of a bearded gang member. a speaker overhead was going. I arranged to meet Cub restorationist and owner of Raw Bikes. The last line silences Nostradamus’ most sceptical detractors.) After the third loop of the song. do-da do-da do. more than any other. the Cub is popular. The gentle people will straddle his back. A relatively new trend among Cub owners in Vietnam. according to The Beach Boys. Eachan Andrew. Nostradamus had to cloak his predictions in obscure language that only revealed its true meaning after the fact. Soichiro Honda put the Cub into continuous manufacture in Japan [the young bear will emerge from [the land of] the rising sun]. “more fun than a barrel of monkeys”. the great French seer Nostradamus predicted the popularity of the Honda Cub*. When I came back to my seat.] The use of the word “roll” here is a favourite pun among Nostradamites. while at the same time making the Cub the most produced internal combustion engine on the planet. by the way.

They’re cheap as well.000 or VND21.” The original bird’s heart engine of the Honda C50 has been replaced with the oxen heart of a Honda Win.” “You did it?” “Yeah. playing the part of David next to the Goliaths like Hell’s Angels on their beefy motorcycles. and certainly there are plenty of similarities between the classic Volkswagen and the Honda Cub. And nine times out of 10 they say ‘oh okay’.com that when a customer wants a bike.” So it’s a hipster thing. Through Thick or Thin Many of Eachan’s customers — mostly males. and — perhaps most importantly — people have made movies based on them..” he adds. The craziest design I was ever asked for was a crocodile skin wrap on the bike. *completely untrue . There are several other movies in this series you should not watch. giving it a chopper-style look. this warm and goodly obsession with Cubs was still beyond me.” “Did it look good?” “No. and that they loved their Beetle or Honda Cub enough to make a movie out of it. he goes through every little detail so it comes out how they want it. and the owners’ dedication to their bikes. the titular character is a sentient Beetle that helps a washed-up driver succeed both on the track and in love. A Total Eclipse of the Heart Although he has owned more than 20 bikes in his life. a guy loses his superbike in a race and has to get a job in a noodle restaurant where he finds a rusty old Cub and restores it. He tells me proudly that it survived a 2. “I wouldn’t use the word ‘hipster’ though. in fact. but when they suggest something too gaudy.8 million). they’re easy to repair. Meanwhile. Perhaps it’s related to Flann O Brien’s “Molecule Theory” from The Dalkey Archive: “people who spend most of their natural lives riding [bikes] over the rocky roadsteads of the parish get their personalities mixed up with the personalities of their [bikes] as a result of the interchanging of the mollycules of each of them”.thick because of all the bike registration cards he carries around — bikes he’s fixing. and the bikes themselves would contain the trapped essence of the original bike owners. The point is that someone thought they could be. these long-time Cub owners would. All over the world people are into their retro bikes and going back to really simple. Eachan is somewhat sentimental about his own Cub which he Frankensteined from the first two bikes he ever owned. old-fashioned ways. Nostradamus did try to warn us. The manufacturing facility for the Cub was based on the Beetle’s Titanic production scale. in the 2008 Japanese film Super Cub (or Supa Kabu).000km road trip around Laos. “If it’s something I know won’t look good. then? “I think it’s quite a hipster thing. In Herbie (1964). both have become 20th century pop design icons. he tries to dissuade them. This might explain the exponential rise of the Cubs. it’s very hip. Eachan says 180 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam. He has also fitted a higher steering column and BMX handlebars. ‘Go ahead with it if you want. and because there’s so many of them. Their Facebook page is choc-a-bloc with soft-focus photos of Honda Cubs in pastoral settings. but I would suggest this’. I’ll say. while others want their bikes ‘pimped’ for as much as VND40 million.. souping-up the black and red monster to 125cc. Cub clubs like these are everywhere. so I couldn’t get rid of it. He loved it though. “It’s the first bike I properly built. it seems. His fingernails are constantly underlined with oil. As a bad parent to my Honda Wave. “And they look retro. be more Cub than human. “I think what makes them so popular is that young people can get them without a licence — they can get them as 50ccs. aged 30 and under — want their Cubs restored to the original condition (which can cost up to US$1. I asked Eachan why people like Cubs.” he explained. and he tells me he was recently turned away by a manicurist who felt he was too much of a challenge.” This human-machine love exists for the VW Beetle as well. and somehow ends up beating the Yakusa with it. and others he owns. By this logic.” He went on to tell me about a group of university students in Hanoi called the Vietnam Young Cubbers who take their classic Cubs on road trips. The point is not that these films are brilliant.