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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow
Winter 2016 - 2017

-60
. 45

Happy New Year!


Ded Moroz is coming
to town

Winter fun
inyourpocket.com
N46

Concerts, exhibitions
and pancakes

Introducing

the new
City Essentials app
Download our new City
Essentials app which features
only our favourite places, carefully
picked by our local editors.

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

All venues are mapped and


work offl ine to help you avoid
roaming charges while you enjoy the
best our cities have to offer.

Great guides written


by locally-based travel
writers to help you get
the most out of your visit.

Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

Public transport

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10


Concerts 10
Exhibitions 13
Theatres 16

Features
Ded moroz is coming to town 18

Where to eat
Asian and Indian
Maslenitsa and bliny

22
22
26

46

Nightlife

28

47

Dance and drink the night away

What to see

30
, ,

The Kremlin
30
Churches 32

Museums 33

Gogol House
34

Where to stay
Interview with concierge

Shopping
Russian souvenirs

35
36
37
37

Business & Expat 38


The Expat Experience
Religious services

38
39

Travel
40
St. Petersburg
40
Russian photo expeditions
42
Solovki 43
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

48

53
55

57
57
59

59

60

Maps & Index


Street index
City map
Metro map

61
62
66

www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket
Winter 2016 - 2017

Foreword
You have made the right choice by coming to Moscow at
this time of year because now you can experience the real
Russianwinter. It will be cold and white. In fact, it already
is. While I am writing this foreword it is -10 degrees Centigrade outside and super snowy, I havent seen anything
like that in mid-November for a long time! So be ready, you
never know what December and January will have in store.
Of course winter in Russia is not winter without its holiday
season. New Year, Russian Christmas, Pancake week (our favorite!) and more! Our special feature of this issue is dedicated to the heroes of Russian holiday folklore - Ded Moroz and
Snegurochka. These two bring the spirit of New Year to every
place and every party - go to pages 18-20 to learn more.
If you want to soak up some culture, check pages 10-17.
Moscow is the cultural center of the country so theres virtually a never-ending list exhibitions, concerts and festivals
to check out.
Moscow is growing not only culturally but also gastronomically. New restaurants and bars open almost daily and this
trend is not about to stop any time soon. Check out pages
22-27 to find out more.
If you want to make your stay even more unforgettable,
check out our travel feature on pages 42-43, where you
can read an interview with Daniel Kordan, the man taking
foreigners on photographic journeys around Russia. Maybe
he will inspire you to visit the Russian Far East or the worlds
deepest lake - Lake Baikal. Photos simply do not do these
regions justice! If you are not ready to go so far but still want
to see something outside Moscow, read about the islands
of Solovki (page 44), the place everybody knows about but
so few actually venture out to. This magical and mysterious
place is definitely a must.
We hope you have enough time to do everything you have
planned. But let us give you a bit of advice: you will never
be able to see everything you want. Moscow is too big for
that and you should come many more times - so please do,
were always happy to see you here! Just dont forget to relax. Sit down, buy yourself a cup of hot coffee and enjoy the
magical and unbelievable city of Moscow. Happy holidays!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

Moscow In Your Pocket


founded and published by OOO
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Cover: Photo from Dreamstime.com
Published 5 times per year with supplements, 46, 01.12.2016,
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4 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and
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In the News
3D Tretyakovka
The Tretyakov Gallery is set to get even cooler and more artsy! Towards the beginning of 2017, the gallery plans to open
the doors to the first museum movie theater. The three halls
will screen digital and 3D movies of all possible genres - from
animations to documentaries. The main focus will be on art
films and classic cinema - both Russian and international.
Do not expect to see any Hollywood blockbusters here. And
the best part: the price will likely not exceed 120Rbl! www.
tretyakovgallery.ru

More Moscow transport


Each year, the Moscow
Metro continues to expand
at a breathtaking pace.
For example, the Moscow
Central Ring (MCR) opened
in September, 2016. Now
the authorities have announced the Third Interchange Circuit and plans
for opening new stations.
The underground Third Interchange Circuit (TIC) will be the
second Circle Line of the Moscow Metro. It will be located
ten kilometers from the first Circle Line and will link all existing and planned radial metro routes. The 61-kilometer Third
Interchange Circuit will be the longest Russian, and probably global, metro line. It is expected that the new circle
line will reduce congestion at Moscow Metro and on roads
and streets. www.mos.ru/city/projects/magistral

Caffeine fix Israeli-style

The Best of Russian


Hospitality

The second annual Russian Hospitality Awards are set


to take place again in February, 2017. This annual meeting is for members of the hospitality community, which
culminates in a gala ceremony honoring best achievements in the industry. The event aims to increase tourist
attractiveness of Russia as well as the quality of services
in the countrys hotel industry, raise the competitiveness of hotels at the local and international level and to
develop the unique platform for cooperation and communication of key players in the hospitality industry. The
Hospitality Awards are held in major European cities and
unites owners and top managers of the best hotels, mass
and specialized media, hotel operators, developers, auditors and consultants.

Moscow-Berlin
in one sleep
Russian Railways have announced their direct service
between Moscow and Berlin. As of December 17, there
will be two trains a week to the German capital. The
high speed train Strizh will depart Kursky Railway
Station at 13:05 on Saturdays and on Sundays with
an expected arrival time of 07:19 the following day.
The Berlin-Moscow part of the route begins at 18:50
on Sundays and Mondays and reaches its final destination at 17:25 on the following day. Tickets can cost
anywhere between 8,737Rbl and 59,790Rbl depending
on the class.

Another foreign chain is


opening up shop in a city
that is being swept by coffee mania! The famous Israeli chain Cofix has arrived
in Moscow. A small coffee
van with a couple of tables
and chairs inside is serving
Muscovites in Okhotny Ryad
shopping center, with plans to open two more locations in
the near future. The Cofix chain is known for its policy of fixed
prices for coffee and food. In Moscow, coffee lovers will be able
to enjoy coffee, muffins, smoothies, salads and local specialties
(syrniki and soups) for only 50Rbl! www.cofix.co.il/en
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Winter 2016 - 2017

Arriving & Getting Around


Moscow is famous for its red walls and its excellent public transport system. Home to over 12 million people,
Moscow has a public transportation that has been hailed
as being amongst the best and most efficient in the
world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus,
marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are
cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather
that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service.
And if public transport is not for you, simply get a taxi. You
will never find yourself without a method of getting from
A to B in Moscow!

Tourist Information
Centers
City Expert Moscow
(TIC)
Tourist information centers City
Expert Moscow welcome guests
and citizens of Moscow. One
kiosk is located in the central department store GUM on the second line of the ground
floor (open 10:00 - 22:00). The other TIC City Expert
Moscow is on the Triumphalnaya Square next to the
monument of Vladimir Mayakovsky (open 10:00 - 19:00).
Everyone can get advice in Russian, English and Spanish
languages. The consultants provide all the necessary information on the tours and sights and help to find ones
way around the city. In addition, there you can get our
guide Moscow In Your Pocket for free!QB1, Triumfalnaya pl., MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96,
city-sightseeing.ru/info. Open 10:00 - 19:00. A

Arriving by plane
Moscows three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and
Vnukovo in the south west.
Aeroexpress Trains
The Aeroexpress train is by the
far the fastest and most reliable
way to get in to the city centre,
dropping passengers off at the
metro circle line. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed
between 00:30 and 05:00) will
be at the mercy of taxi drivers
so it is advisable to pre-book
a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the
touts. Qtel. (+7) 800 700 33 77, www.aeroexpress.ru.
6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Domodedovo Airport (DME)


Aeroexpress trains go from here to the Paveletsky station.
The journey time is 45 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 499 933 66 66,
www.domodedovo.ru.
Sheremetyevo Airport (SVO)
Aeroexpress trains go from here to the Belorusskaya station. The journey time is 35 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 495 578
65 65, www.svo.aero.
Vnukovo airport (VKO)
From here you can take the Aeroexpress train to Kievskaya
station. The journey time is 35 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 499 937
55 55, www.vnukovo.ru.

Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether
you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscows many train stations are always bustling with travelers
about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early
in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya
ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually
hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the
metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl. 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around


Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russias most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each
train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very
easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple
rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 54Rbl. On the more
modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it
is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush
hour, so if you arent familiar with Moscows many stations, it
is best to count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the
metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro.
Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the
routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 60Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1,000Rbl note!

Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
youll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Gett, tel. (+7) 499 999 08 39, gett.com/ru
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Buying train tickets


Buying train tickets at the station
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a
train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train
station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at
any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination
outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you dont speak Russian, it
is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train
you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help
you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look
for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable.
Dont forget they also require your passport to sell you a
ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on
your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new
one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the
special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your
passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and
reservation belongs to you).
Buying train tickets online
Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes
in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy
tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from
the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking
through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www.
tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.
Winter 2016 - 2017

City Basics
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate
Winters in Russia are notorious theyve defeated
both the armies of Hitler and Napoleon. In December the temperatures begin to drop, but there can still
be wet days, whereas January is usually the coldest
month and the city will be blanketed in snow. Time
to wrap up warm!

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts
report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
Youll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.

Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Post

Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC)


Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russias post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Language
useful phrases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help

Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!



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Language Center
Ruslingua Language Center
Ruslingua linguistic center has been offering courses in European languages as well as Russian since
2005. The courses are totally flexible: you can attend group courses (2-4 people per group) at the
school's central location or have a teacher come to
you at a convenient time - wherever is best for you.
Corporate training, exam preparation, conversation
classes as well as an intensive one-day "talking to
your driver" crash course are all on offer. Ruslingua's
homely atmosphere and individual approach lead to
the best results!QD2, Sretensky bul. 2, office 410,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 10 09, www.
ruslingua.com. Office open from Mon - Fri 11:00 19:00. Lessons everyday. NW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

pocket dictionary: Sosulka


What is a sosulka? A sosulka (Icicle) is one of those long and
beautiful and potentially lethal ice stalactites that hang
from the roofs of buildings. As the temperature rises and
falls the melting snow on rooftops (krysha) turn into different shaped sosulki. The threat to innocent passersbys
is such that the city needs to employ an army of special
kommunalshchiki (local council workers) armed with trucks,
pick axes and shovels to go up onto the citys roofs to remove them. In fact the dangerous job of icicle removing
has existed for centuries and has seen numerous casualties. Sometimes the sosulki can grow as long as two floors,
which as you can imagine is an absolutely terrifying sight,
so mind your head! The word comes from the verb sosat,
meaning to suck, which is what adventurous kids like to do
with them when their parents arent watching.

russian names
Darya
This name is also borrowed from Greek, and is the female form of the name Darius. This was in fact taken
from the ancient Persian Darayahavush which means
winner, owner of wealth. Ironically, by the 18th century it was a very popular name amongst the peasantry in Russia, which many attribute rising popularity to
the private performance of a play called Chrysanthus
and Darya, written by the sister of Peter the Great.
Winter 2016 - 2017

Culture & Events


Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky,
Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and Co. they all
took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place.
Live music from local and international performers is another
big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter
note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high
heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions
and other curious events.

theatres and concert


halls

Crocus City Hall


QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Luzhniki Stadium
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
RAY JUST Arena
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.
SC Olimpisky
Q-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
Stadium Live
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
Moscow Philarmonic Society
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
International House of Music: Chamber
Hall, Theatre Hall, Svetlanov Hall
QE5, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru
Helikon-Opera
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul., 19/16, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 250 22 22, www.helikon.ru.
Moscow Philharmonic Rachmaninoff
Hall
Qpr. Michurinsky, Olympic Village, 1, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru
Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall
QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 232 53 53 , www.meloman.ru
Moscow State Music Hall
QE-1, ul. Kalanchevskaya 33, bild. 12, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 680 20 49, www.music-hall.ru
State Kremlin Palace
QC3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru
Bolshoi Theatre
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru
electroTheatRe stanislavsky
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699
72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru
10 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow Operetta Theater


QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 925
50 50, www.mosoperetta.ru
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru

concerts
02.12 20:00 The Baseballs

Feel like a bit of boogying and a dash of woogying? Save


the date for December 2 because Germanys rock and roll
finest The Baseballs will be tearing the roof down that
evening. Founded in Berlin in 2007, they became popular
with 1950s and 1960s style rock cover versions of modern hits such as Umbrella by Rihanna, Crazy in Love
by Beyonc Knowles, Hot n Cold by Katy Perry and
Call Me Maybe by Carly Rae Jepsen.QYotaspace Glavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel.
(+7) 495 230 10 30, Tickets 2,500 - 10,000Rbl., www.
thebaseballs.com.

05.12 20:00 Alessandro Safina

Anyone with a keen interest in opera will know the


name Alessandro Safina.
The early 21st century saw
the rise of this Italian singer
who has combined his
opera roots with modernday pop music. Late in
his teens, Safina began to
appreciate pop and rock
music, drawing inspiration from such bands as
Genesis, The Clash, Simple
Minds, and U2. Shortly
thereafter, he began to combine the opera and pop
genres. Throughout his career he has collaborated with
Baz Luhrmanns, Ewan McGregor, Sarah Brightman and
many others. On December 5 signior Safina is returning
to Moscow so dont miss your chance to hear this amazing talent live!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km,
MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, Tickets 1,500 15,000Rbl/, www.alessandrosafina.info.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


07.12 20:00 Natalia Oreiro

A talented singer, actress and fashion designer, Natalia


Oreiro is truly the pride of both Uruguay and Argentina
- and shes on her way back to Russia this winter! She is
especially popular in Russia thanks to her roles in the soap
operas The Rich and Famous and Wild Angel. So popular, in fact, that she was invited to star in a Russian telenovela and was even awarded the title Peoples Artist of
Russia, the highest honorary titles of the Russian Federation for outstanding achievements in the field of theater,
music, circus, vaudeville and film art. On December 7 Natalia will delight her Moscow fans with her beauty, talent,
captivating voice and divine melodies!QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
Tickets 2,500 - 10,000Rbl., www.nataliaoreiro.com.

08.12 19:00 Brandon Stone

On December 8 the Diplomatic Hall of the State Kremlin Palace will host a show
by Brandon Stone, a composer, arranger, sound producer and singer. Brandon
considers himself a jazz,
soul and pop singer thus his
music represents a unique
mix of styles. An incredible
voice combined with romantic charm helped him gain
popularity in many countries in Europe, the CIS as well as
the USA. Brandon sings his songs in Russian, English, German, Spanish, French, Hebrew and Georgian. Do not miss
the chance to spend your evening in the company of the
charismatic Brandon: he will sing for you both the songs
he wrote for himself and those written for many Russian
singers in the cozy Diplomatic Hall.QC3, State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.,
www.brandonstone.ru.

08.12 20:00 Pet shop Boys

Get ready to relive your


youth with the legendary
British electro-pop duo Pet
Shop Boys on December 8!
Their world tour in support
of their 13th studio album
Super kicks off on October
21 in Las Vegas and will take
them across the US, Canada,
Germany, the Netherlands,
Denmark and finally to Russia. Super was released on April 1, 2016 and made into
the top 3 in English charts. In addition to their newest
songs, fans will surely be treated to the Boys good old
hits like West End Girls, Its a Sin, Always on My Mind,
Heart, Go West and others!QVTB Ice Palace Moscow
(IPM), Avtozavodskaya ul. 23, MAvtozavodskaya, tel.
+7 (495) 139-12-02, Tickets 3,500 - 10,000Rbl., www.
petshopboys.co.uk.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Journey into Christmas

An event not to be missed for the young and young


at heart, the Journey into Christmas festival returns
to Moscow for an entire month (December 16, 2016
- January 15, 2017). Spread over more than 30 venues
across the capital, the festivals main aim is to delight
Muscovites and visitors with a mesmerizing figure
skating show by famous skaters, theatrical fairytale
performances, concerts, creative and culinary masterclasses and, of course, the most beloved winter activity of all - ice skating and sledding! And the best
thing: its all absolutely free! If youre feeling especially
adventurous, take part in one of the public quests for
your chance to win some special prizes. And if youre
still searching for the perfect Christmas/New Year gift
or some fun and original decorations for your tree, pay
a visit to one of the festive market squares. But thats
not all: another fantastic is happening simultaneously.
Christmas Light is in its second year and unites light
artists from Russia, France and Italy to create light
decorations all over Moscows center. Different venues. See website for details: www.mos.ru.

11.12 19:00 Emin

Emin Araz oglu Agalarov or simply Emin - is an Azerbaijani singer-songwriter


and businessman. He
writes and performs songs
in English and Russian and
his fame stretches across
Azerbaijan, Turkey and
Russia. Emin is a fantastic
multi-tasker: in addition to
being a highly successful
businessman who since
2014 has held the position of Executive Vice President of
Crocus Group, he also finds the time to follow his passion
in music. His December 11 show will be truly special as he
performs his best known hits together with the legendary Canadian musician, record producer, composer and
songwriter David Foster.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66
Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, Tickets 1,000
- 18,000Rbl., www.emin-music.com.
Winter 2016 - 2017

11

Culture & Events


Odin bilet - One ticket
Dva bileta - Two tickets
12.12 19:00 David Garett

Fans of violin music with a fresh modern twist will be happy to learn that German pop and crossover violinist David
Garrett is on his way to Moscow. Save the date for December 12 to see the Paganini of the 21st century perform rock
hits as well as classical pieces and to be blown away by
the powerful synthesis of rock and classic elements. The
rock violinist feels equally passionate about Kurt Cobains
grunge style as he does about Mozarts sonatas and performs Bach with the same ease as AC/DCs hits.QC3,
State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, Tickets 6,000
- 35,000Rbl., www.david-garrett.com.

mostly favorable reviews of 4 out of 5 stars and peaked at


the top of the UK Albums Chart in its first week, giving The
Blossoms their first number-one album! The September,
2016 tour to support the album release also sold out. Come
see what the fuss is all about on January 28 at Moscows
Yotaspace!QYotaspace Glavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11,
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, Tickets 999
- 3,500Rbl., www.blossomsband.co.uk.

03.02 20:00 Chicherina

26.01 20:00 Jay-Jay Johanson

Jje Johansson, better


known by his stage name
Jay-Jay Johanson, is a
Swedish singer-songwriter,
known for his melancholic
vocals. His music integrated the trip hop genre until he switched his sound
to a more electroclashoriented direction with his
2003 album Antenna. In
addition to his solo work,
Jay-Jay Johanson co-wrote and contributed vocals to fellow Swedes from The Knife 2006 song Marble House.
Jay-Jay is back with his 10th studio album Opium and
you can catch him in action on January 26 at Moscows
Yotaspace.QYotaspace Glavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11,
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, Tickets
300 - 50,000Rbl., www.jayjayjohanson.tumblr.com.

The name Chicherina is well known to any Russian that has


at least the faintest interest in music and is also synonymous with girl power. A native of Sverdlovsk (modernday
Yekaterinburg), Yulia Chicherina is a Russian pop-rock artist who has been performing since 1997 and is part of the
wave of Uralic rock along with the likes of Nautilus Pompilius and Chaif. Over her 20 year career she has released
many hit songs, hit albums and hit collaborations, most
notable of which was the timeless ballad Moi Rock n
Roll with fellow rockers Bi-2. On February 3 join the singer
at Moscows Yotaspace for a musical recap of the past
20 years.QYotaspace Glavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11,
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, Tickets
300 - 37,500Rbl., www.chicherina.com.

10.02 20:00 Arrival from Sweden

ARRIVAL From Sweden is one of the worlds most popular


and bestselling ABBA show bands and since the start in
1995, the production has toured 48 nations and appeared
in several TV and radio shows all over the world. Each of
the individual musicians in Arrival make you feel as if you
are listening to the real thing and just about every ABBA hit
song is performed at their concerts. On February 10, dont
miss your chance to get as close to the legendary Swedish band as is now humanly possible!QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
Tickets 2,000 - 12,000Rbl., www.themusicofabba.com.

28.01 20:00 Blossoms

Formed in 2013 in Stockport, Greater Manchester, The Blossoms are an indie pop outfit that made it to the BBCs Sound
Of new music list for 2016. Although the English chaps released their debut album only in August, 2016, they have
already made a loud splash and the release was met with
12 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


12.02 18:00 Tango of Passion by Astor
Piazzolla

Emotions will run high on February 12 on the stage of


Moscows Kremlin Palace, Moscow because Tango of Passion by Astor Piazzolla is coming to town! The symphonic
orchestra Concord Orchestra will accompany this unique
show dedicated to Valentines Day, which has become a
tradition over the years. This music and dance project brilliantly combines flaming expressive choreography with
passionate music by Astor Piazzolla. This powerful combination has created a magnificent and unforgettable show
with its outstanding dance performances and emotional
tango music so treat your loved one to something truly
special and fiery this Valentines Day!QC3, State Kremlin
Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, Tickets 1,000 - 10,000Rbl.,
www.piazzolla.org.

26.02 19:00 Smokie

Alice? Who the heck is Alice? Well, very soon you can find
out! The band behind this timeless classic is coming back
to Moscow on February 26. For those who are not familiar
with them, Smokie are an English rock band from Bradford, Yorkshire responsible for hits like If You Think You
Know How to Love Me, Dont Play Your Rock n Roll to
Me, Lay Back in the Arms of Someone and, of course,
their most popular single Living Next Door to Alice,
which peaked at No. 5 on the UK Singles Chart and, in
March 1977, reached No. 25 on the Billboard Hot 100. Dont
miss getting a healthy dose of rock n roll and make sure to
secure your tickets to this show soon!QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
Tickets 2,000 - 12,000Rbl., www.smokie.co.uk.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Exhibitions
14.12 - 21.03 Elegant Century

Between December 14 and March 12 the Museum of Russian


Impressionism is hosting an exhibition dedicated to one of the
most interesting artists of the Silver Age - Elena Andreevna
Kiseleva (1878-1974). The exhibition is a continuation of the
museums dedication to acquainting the public with great
artists who have been unduly forgotten. Kiselevas works have
certainly left a mark on Russias art at the start of 20th century.
Her name stands alongside other very notable female artists
such as Zinaida Serebryakova. More than 50 of Kiselevas works
are on display to bring one of Ilya Repins favorite students
back into the limelight.QA1, Museum of Russian Impressionism, Leningradsky pr. 15, bldg.11, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 145 75 55, Tickets 100 - 300Rbl., www.rusimp.su.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Wed 12:00 - 21:00.

20.12 - 31.03 Fairytales of Hans


Christian Andersen

Hans Christian Andersen is, arguably, one of the


most famous Danes. Very
few people will not have
heard of childrens stories
like The Little Mermaid
and The Ugly Duckling.
Andersen is the Danish
writer who penned these
timeless
masterpieces.
The Museum of Anatoly
Zverev (AZ Museum) presents a new exhibition dedicated
to the writers works titled Andersens Fairytales. The exhibition features Anatolys Zverevs illustrations of some
of Andersens best known works The Little Mermaid,
Wilds Swans, The Nightingale and The Emperors New
Clothes. The youngest of visitors can also take part in master-classes and various other fun activities.QB2, AZ Museum, 2-ya Tverskaya Yamskaya ul. 20-22 bldg.2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 55 26, Tickets 200 - 400Rbl.,
www.museum-az.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

through 08.01 Albert Marquet.


Window open wide

The concept of an exhibition of Albert Marquets works was


conceived and fulfilled by the curators of Muse dArt Moderne de la Ville de Paris as a monographic research on the
oeuvre of this renowned French artist. The exhibition hosted by the Pushkin State Museum adds on to this some materials from Marquets travel to Russia and his impressions.
In addition to Marquets works, the exhibition includes
artworks created by the Vkhutemas and Vkhutein alumni
of the 1920s, members of the 13 group, and the Circle of
Artists group from Leningrad, who praised Marquets oeuvre and implemented similar aesthetic principles in their
cityscapes of Moscow and Leningrad.QC3, The Pushkin
State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, Tickets 150 - 550Rbl.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Winter 2016 - 2017

13

Culture & Events


through 10.01 The Art of Living

The Art of Living. Dutch


Burgher House Interiors
in the Age of Prosperity, a new exhibition at the
Pushkin Musuem,features
nearly 20 paintings by major Dutch masters of the
Golden Age Pieter de
Hooch, Gabriel Metsu, Frans
van Mieris the Elder, Richard
Brakenburg and Pieter Janssens Elinga. In addition, furniture and arts and crafts objects
made of gold, silver, porcelain and glass - all of which constituted an essential part of a burghers house and an object of
their owners passion and vanity are on display. The exhibits come from the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts and
other Russian and Western European museums and private
collections.QC3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95
20, Tickets 150 - 500Rbl., www.arts-museum.ru. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

artist consistently moved away from the imitative realistic


method striving to get closer to understanding signs of
the spiritual hierarchy. He formed his own definition of the
image-sign hierature. The name of the exhibition Vertograds of Michael Schwarzma figuratively reveals the
hieratic art of the artist and, accordingly, the logic of the
exhibitions structure. The vertograd is a very old form of
the word orchard and in the Christian tradition the vertograd means the Garden of Eden.QC2, MMOMA (Moscow Museum of Modern Art), Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, Tickets 150 - 350Rbl.,
www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00.

through 15.01 Dmitry Shostakovich SvYatoslav Richter

Roughly 400 objects of the early Iron Age are on display,


all of which were discovered during archeological works in
Moscow and Moscow Region. Find out about the people
who inhabited Moscow long before the arrival of the Slavs.
The names of localities, places, streets go back to the Middle
Ages but the names of rivers go back to distant past, they
are neither Russian nor Slavonic, but rather Finno-Ugric
and Baltic. Some scientists believe that these languages
were spoken by the people of Dyakovo culture. The name
of culture descends from the first investigated monument,
the Dyakovo site on the territory of Kolomenskoye museum.
QC3, Archaelogy Museum, Manezhnaya pl.1a, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 15 67, Tickets 150 - 300Rbl.,
www.mosmuseum.ru.

Dmitry Shostakovich was


the most brilliantly inventive of all Soviet composers, whose symphonies
and quartets are among
the greatest examples of
these classic forms from
the 20th century. With
such an impressive resume, Shostakovich has
been a major influence for
others. An exhibition celebrating the 110th anniversary of the maestros birth at the
Pushkin Museum looks at the effect Shostakovichs work
had on Svyatoslav Richters - a Russian pianist known for
the depth of his interpretations, virtuoso technique and
vast repertoire - view of 20th century art. The exhibition
features letters and photographs, concert programs and
billboards, records and film chronicles, as well as works
by artists of different generations and epochs.QC3, The
Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, Tickets 100 200Rbl., www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

through 15.01 Vertograds of


Michael Schwarzman

through 26.01 Myasnitskaya, 21.


Crossroads of Destinies

through 15.01 Moscow before


Muscovites

The exhibition is dedicated to Michael Schwarzmans 90th anniversary.


The works from the state
and private collections are
united under the idea of
the curator Sergey Khachaturov to show the art of
the master through various
dialogues with art history,
both present and past.
The term hieratism introduced by Michael Schwarzman in the context of current artistic life in Greek means
the sacred. The philosophy of hieratic art appeared in
the 1960-s and eventually resulted in the system of sign
and architectonic codes. Throughout his creative life the
14 Moscow In Your Pocket

The Myasnitskaya 21.


Crossroads of destinies.
Raisa Idelson, Robert Falk,
Alexander Labas, Alexander Rodchenko exhibition
at ArtStory Gallery aims
to explore the unique history of artists, whose paths
crossed, merged and then
diverged in the first half of
the 20th century. The story
of their life, love and work is
closely linked to the famous
VKhUTEMAS House on Moscows Myasnitskaya Street. Artist and poet Raisa Idelson (together with her first husband
Robert Falk and later her second husband Alexander Labas),
called apartment 36 on 21 Myasnitskaya Street home. In this
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


very house the legendary VKhUTEMAS-VKHUTEIN art school
was established and the founder of the constructivist movement Alexander Rodchenko lived, as well other famous artists, poets, sculptors and musicians. The exhibition sheds light
on the famous lives that were lived in this apartment and this
building.QB1, Gallery ARTSTORY, per. Staropimenovsky
14, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.artstory.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

through 29.01 Leon Bakst


and Tretyakov Family

The name Leon Bakst is


known worldwide. He
was a Russian painter and
scene and costume designer and a member of
the Sergei Diaghilev circle
and the Ballets Russes, for
which he designed exotic,
richly coloured sets and
costumes. In 1903 Leon
Bakst married Lyubov
Gritsenko, the daughter
of the famous art collector Peter Tretyakov (founder of
the Tretyakov Gallery). She became the artists muse and
the portrait he painted of her is the focus of the new exhibition at the Tretyakov Gallery dedicated to his works.
Other unique photographs and archival data are also on
display to tell about this amazing love story that lasted a
lifetime.QC4, Tretyakov Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10,
MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, Tickets 150 400Rbl., www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

through 05.02 Proof

Featuring works by Francisco Goya (1746-1828), Sergei


Eisenstein (1898-1948) and Robert Longo (1953-) the new
exhibition Proof at the Garage Museum of Contemporary
Art offers insight into the singularity of vision through which
artists can reflect social, cultural, and political complexities
of their times. The exhibition includes 43 of Eisensteins
sketches from the Russian State Archive of Literature and
Art that have not been exhibited before. These will be presented alongside seven of his films that will be projected
in slow motion, so that each frame can be experienced as
independent images. Fifty of Goyas aquatint etchings, from
all four of his suites, will be loaned for the first time from
the State Central Museum of Contemporary History of Russia and more than thirty-five works by Longo, produced in
the last fifteen years, loaned from international collections.
QB5, Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Gorky
Park, ul. Krymsky Val 9/32, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495
645 05 20, Tickets 100 - 400Rbl., garagemca.org.

through 05.02 The Exhibition of


Gerhard Richter: Abstraction and
Appearance

The Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center presents the


exhibition of Gerhard Richter: Abstraction and Appearance.
Gerhard Richter is one of the most foremost modern artists in the world; the central theme of his oeuvre for more
than 50 years has been the exploration of appearance in our
perception of reality. This groundbreaking exhibition at the
Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center is devoted to Richters
involvement with abstraction and includes key works in various media from 1973 to 2016. It surveys important stages in
the artists development and major works shown include
Gray (1973), Aladin(1999), Haggadah (2006), Strip (2013/2016)
and a selection of recent Abstract Paintings (2016). The center
of the exhibition comprises a special installation devoted to
Birkenau (2014), a series of four recent large-format abstract
paintings which were created in response to photographs
taken by a prisoner at the Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration
Camp in August 1944. Suggesting that any attempt to express this tragedy by realistic painting is forlorn, the Birkenau
paintings make the original images unrecognizable, and use
abstract painting to convey a powerful emotional message.
The installation includes four full-sized original photographs
and 93 photographic details of the same works, exploring
Richters parallel involvement with the role of replication in
our experience of appearance. These works are among the
most significant in modern art in recent years.QJewish Museum and Tolerance Center, Ul. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1,
MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, Tickets 150 300Rbl., www.jewish-museum.ru.

through 12.02 Andre Malro

The name Andr Malraux rings a bell for those interested


in the history of art. A French novelist, art historian and
statesman, Malraux also served for 10 years as Frances
minister of cultural affairs under Charles de Gaulle. His Les
Voix du silence was a revised version of his Psychologie de
lart. Les Voix du silence is a brilliant and well-documented
synthesis of the history of art in all countries and through
all ages. To honor his vision, the Pushkin Museum is bringing to Moscow 200 masterpieces from the worlds leading
museums, like the Louvre, dOrsay and el Prado.QC3, The
Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, Tickets 150 500Rbl., www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

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Winter 2016 - 2017

15

Culture & Events


through 19.02 Roma Aeterna. Masterpieces of Pinacoteca Vaticana

All under one roof, the Roma Aeterna. Masterpieces of


the Vatican Pinacotheca Bellini, Raphael, Caravaggio
exhibition at the Tretyakov Gallery presents the masterpieces from the permanent collection of the Vatican and
its Museum. The treasures of the Vatican Museums attract
art lovers from around the world but rarely leave the permanent collections, therefore this exhibition is an important event not only for Russia and Europe, but also for the
whole world. The exhibition features the paintings of the
XII-XVIII centuries, including works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Giovanni Bellini, Guercino, Pietro Perugino, Guido Reni
and Nicolas Poussin.QC4, Tretyakov Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62,
Tickets 150 - 400Rbl., www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

through 28.02 Catherine II. The


Golden Age of the Russian Empire

Catherine II. The golden age of the Russian Empire is a


permanent exhibition at Tsaritsyno Museums Grand Palace dedicated to the great Tsaritsa. The project consists of
three parts: the permanent exhibition, a temporary display
of one object that is on a museum tour and the multimedia educational program, which was created together
with the online humanities project Arzamas. Each of these
parts gets updated regularly so even if youve already visited this exhibition, be sure to check back regularly for new
and exciting features!QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 499 725 72 87, Tickets 100 - 350Rbl.,
www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru.

through 21.03 HOUSE OF IMPRESSIONS.


WANDERING WITH A TROUBADOUR

A new exciting exhibition


at the Pushkin museum
titled House of Impressions. Wandering with a
Troubadour presents a
discussion about inner harmony of a human being
as well as social harmony
in the modern world, the
attempts to find and keep
ones inner voice, to gain
and never lose ones own
melody. Artists create a polyphonic neo-Romantic space
for a dialogue with the viewer about the inner and outer
territories. Each of the projects creates a resonating space
and expand the boundaries of sound, cinema and performance. The artists are presented to the viewer as contemporary troubadours narrating tales of invisible matters:
the sound and plasticity of metaphors, the hidden but
omnipresent musicality.QC3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, Tickets 200 - 550Rbl., www.
arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket

Theatres
Musical Folklore Theatre
Russian Song
Since 2000, the Moscow
National Musical Folklore
Theatre Russian Song has
been delivering traditional
Russian and ethnic culture
to the public under the
careful guidance of Nadezhda Babkina, Peoples
Artist of Russia. This is the
only theater in Moscow
that preserves the richness of Russias folk culture and shares it
with viewers. For example, this season Muscovites and guests
of the capital can enjoy a special play called Russia, A Word
About You (December 9), that is a celebration and a summary
of the last 40 years of the Russian Song Theater. Babiy Bunt
(December 11, 12 and February 26) is another fun number on
show this season and is based on humorous yet poetic portrayals of village life by Nobel Prize author Mikhail Sholokhov.
Another one not to be missed is the folk musical Christmas
Eve (December 26-29), based on the first story in the second
volume of the collection Evenings on a Farm Near Dikanka
by Nikolai Gogol. QOlimpisky pr. 14, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7)
926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at the
theater, online or by phone.
Electrotheatre Stanislavsky
Electrotheatre is homage
to one of the first pre-revolutionary Russian movie
theatres Electrotheatre Ars
that occupied the same
building in 1915. The best
traditions of a fashionable
movie theatre, a dramatic
opera studio and the influence of the famous Russian
director Konstantin Stanislavsky all these factors intertwine
to make this theatre truly unique in the capitals cultural scene.
The theatres current art director Boris Yukhananov is also determined to combine truly avant-garde traditions with classical Russian theatre art. Despite this drive for innovation and
transformation, Electrotheatre Stanislavksy carefully sticks to
the traditions of Russias dramatic theatre. The famous opera
The Drillalians will be showing this winter. It is directed by B.
Yuhananov. The opera is set in a fantastical realm, following the
fate of the long-forgotten ancient civilisation of the Drillalians.
Still living among us today, they fate constantly lives in the balance, and only can a prince save it. The total length of the opera is nights, during which time the music of six composers is
performed. Real enthusiasts will undoubtedly be present at all
five nights - but just the one will give you a taste all the same!
20:00 on January 20, 21, 24, 25, 28, 29 and February 1, 2, 5,
6. With English subtitles supplied. Also find other performances on the website. QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Features

Ded Moroz
is coming to town
New Year is Russias biggest and most grandiose
holiday when dreams and miracles come true!
Who is responsible for making the holiday
season in Russia a truly magical time? Ded Moroz
and his loyal assistant Snegurochka!
18 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Features
Russians love their heroes. Just as with European folklore
traditions, Russian tales feature traditional heroes whose
kindness, bravery and loyalty are rewarded. In Russian
folklore youll also find some dark and complex characters
like Baba Yaga living her house on chicken legs and her
male counterpart, Koshchey the Deathless, an immortal
shapeshifter and habitual wife-stealer.
Fitting all of Russias beloved folklore heroes into one feature is an impossible task. So because its winter, weve
decided to tell you all about the characters that make the
holiday season in our country a truly magical one!

All about Snegurochka


and Ded Moroz
New Year in Russia would not be what it is without these
two. Ded Moroz is the Russian equivalent of Santa Claus
but unlike in Western folklore, Ded Moroz goes around the
country giving out presents with Snegurochka (Snowmaiden), his granddaughter and assistant.
The original Russian gift-giver was Saint Nicholas, the countrys Patron Saint, whose Feast Day is celebrated on December 6th. The image of Saint Nicholas originates from the
image of another hero the ancient Morozko. In Russian
folklore Morozko is a powerful hero and smith who chains
water with his iron frosts. Morozko was not hostile to people - he helped them and gave them lovely presents.
There are several characteristics that differentiate Ded Moroz from Santa Claus - and were not just talking about an
endorsement from Coca Cola! His shirt and trousers are
made of flax and are usually decorated with white geometrical ornamental patterns; his fur coat is ankle long and
embroidered with silvery stars and crosses; his hat is normally red and adorned with pearls. Other features of his attire include luxurious high boots with silver ornamentation
(or traditional valenki on an exceptionally chilly day) and his
pikestaff made either of silver or crystal.
Like a real Russian aristocrat, Ded Moroz rides in a troika a
sleigh pulled by a trio of three white horses representing the
three months of winter. This means that Russian children do
not have to know the names of all 12 of Santas reindeer by
heart. Plus, their task of remembering the names of Ded Morozs horses was made easy for them by a popular childrens
song Tri Belykh Konya (Three White Horses).
The origins of Snegurochka, Ded Morozs gorgeous and
virtuous companion who follows him to his New Year parties and helps him interact with children, are contradictory.
Some believe the roots of this character to be found in
Slavic pagan beliefs. According to legend, she is the daughter of Father Frost and the Snow Queen.
Others, however, do not believe that Snegurochka has
roots in Slavic mythology and only came into being in the
late 19th century - nonetheless she appears to be as eternal
as Russia itself. They believe that this winter beauty was the
brainchild of one of Russias most significant playwrights
and Kostroma Region native, Alexander Ostrovsky. He was
partly raised by a nanny who filled his days with fairy tales
and it is widely believed that she was the one who gave
him the inspiration to bring Snegurochka to life.
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Ostrovskys play The Snow Maiden (first performed in


1873 featuring music composed by Tchaikovsky), portrays
the young beauty as the daughter of Frost and Spring. She
is immortal and she lives in her fathers winter forest, yet
Snegurochka is lonely and would happily give up her immortality for the ability to feel love, like normal humans. By
the reign of Nicholas II, Snegurochka had become associated with winter holiday celebrations.
Snegurochka has since been an essential part of the New
Years celebrations and a helper to Ded Moroz. Young,
beautiful and smiling, she always travels with Ded Moroz
on a horse-drawn sledge (troika) to visit children and give
them gifts. Nowadays, Ded Moroz is considered to be her
grandfather rather than her father, as in the old legend.
Snegurochka is often depicted with snow white skin, deep
sky-blue eyes, cherry lips and curly fair hair. Her present day
costume is blue, red, white or silver and her crown is sometimes replaced by an embroidered cap with fur edging.

Like a real Russian aristocrat, Ded Moroz


rides in a troika a sleigh pulled by a trio
of three white horses representing the
three months of winter.
Believe it or not, there was a brief period in Russias recent
history when children had to spend New Year without Ded
Moroz and his Snegurochka! The arrival of the Bolsheviks
to power saw a total revolution in many aspects of peoples lives, including who to believe in during the magical
holiday season when anything should be possible. In 1917,
Ded Moroz was banished into exile. He was considered a
kind of a kids god, which was impermissible during Soviet
times when Russian leaders were flatly against any manifestations of religiousness.
Thankfully, only 20 years later Ded Moroz returned to the country and New Years celebrations became public. Since then Ded
Moroz and Snegurochka appear on New Years Eve, putting
presents under the fir tree for the kids to find in the morning.

Visiting father frost


While Santa Claus is rumored to have residences in Finland
and the North Pole, Ded Moroz is a proud patriot and maintains a home in Veliky Ustyug in the Vologda Region. His
estate is also major tourist attraction receiving more than
200,000 guests a year.
Snegurochka, however, is a native of Kostroma so it is not
hard to find her in this town just a few hours drive from
Moscow. She is so beloved in her hometown that her
birthday is celebrated in an official capacity for two days.
You can meet her in Snegurochkas Fairy Land, located in
a restored 19th century building near the waterfront. Snegurochka welcomes guests and explains the uniqueness of
regional folk traditions and presents other characters from
Ostrovskys story. There are large collections of regional costumes and dolls and handicraft classes for young children.
Read more here: www.dedmorozz.ru.
Winter 2016 - 2017

19

Features
Fortune Telling

The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed to
be a particularly auspicious time for telling ones future
and many Russians still like to take carry out various old
Slavic fortune telling rituals. In the olden days it was believed that during this time the souls of dead ancestors
would roam the earth checking on the lives of their children and grandchildren, although nowadays most people see it is a time for enjoying some superstitious fun.
According to tradition, the night of old New Years Day,
13th January, gives the most truthful predictions.
Wax fortune telling
This involves melting wax and pouring it onto water.
It will solidify into a shape. From this shape, you must
judge your future. If it is a house, you will live well this
year. If circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind
of fruit or animal, you will have good health. If it is a
man, then you know what that means!

winter heroes in movies


and cartoons
In fairy tales Morozko is at times kind and at times evil. In a
manner similar to Robin Hood, he is kind towards the hard
working and the good-hearted, but extremely severe with
the mean and the lazy. In 1964, a movie was made about
this classical fairytale. Morozko was directed by Aleksandr
Rou (a Soviet film director who made great contributions
to the fairytale genre) and starred Eduard Izotov as Ivan,
Natalya Sedykh as Nastenka, and Alexander Khvylya as
Morozko.
Once upon a time, there was a woman who had both a
daughter of her own, whom she loved, and a step-daughter, whom she hated. One day, the woman ordered her
husband to take her stepdaughter out into the winter fields
and leave her there to die, and he obeys. Morozko finds her
there; she is polite and kind to him, so he gives her a chest
full of beautiful things and fine garments. After a while, her
stepmother sends her father to bring back the girls body
to be buried, which he also obeys. After a while, the family dog says that the girl is coming back, and that she is
beautiful and happy. When the stepmother sees what her
stepdaughter has brought back, she orders her husband to
take her own daughter out into the fields. Unlike before,
this child is rude to Morozko, and he freezes her to death.
Snegurochka starred in two Soviet films. Director Ivan
Ivanov-Vanos 1952 animated version The Snow Maiden is
close to Ostrovskys version and includes Rimsky-Korsakovs
music. Another version is Pavel Kadochnikovs Snegurochka released in 1969.

Paper
Crumple up some paper, put it on a tray and set fire to
it. When it stops burning, lift the tray up to a wall and
shine some light on it. The burnt paper should cast a
shadow onto the wall. Following the wax shape guidelines above, you can predict the coming years luck
from the shape of the shadow.
King of Diamonds
Take a deck of playing cards and remove the King of
Diamonds. Put it under your pillow on a night between
the 6th and the 13th of December and you will dream
of your future husband.
Lucky Dip
Find a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a hook. Lay
them on a table and cover them with a piece of cloth
or napkin. Have someone re-arrange them under the
cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If you
choose the ring, your future husband will be vain. If
you get the bread, your husband will be rich. If you
get the hook, your husband will be poor. Other versions of the lucky dip can involve a babys sock (predicting an imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth)
and a key (for a new home).
20 Moscow In Your Pocket

old Traditions
If youre feeling extra cheerful you can join in a Yolka, a little song and dance ritual that the Russian children perform
to make Ded Moroz. For those wanting to ensure something extra special under their Novogodnaya Yolka (New
Year Tree) they can write to Ded Moroz at the post office
in Veliky Ustyug. As in the Western world, parents often invite Ded Moroz and Snegurochka over on New Years Eve
and if their kids were nice and not naughty, the duo will
present them with a gift. Some desperate parents even disguise themselves as the gift-giver but be careful: a fake Ded
Moroz may have his cover blown by wearing slippers while
their cotton-wool beards hang half glued to their chins!
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

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Winter 2016 - 2017

21

Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
0 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,500Rbl
1,500 - 2,000Rbl 2,000Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian


Cafe Chekhov
Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has
been inspired by the great playwrights era. The dining
room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses
wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve new
Russian cuisine.QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya,
tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant used to be known as the citys
only upper class restaurant where you could eat European
standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by
the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour caf and a restaurant called the Library
Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB2,
Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33,
www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the
second floor 12:00 - 23:30. . PAVEW
Dacha na Pokrovke
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this caf/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and
pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the
type youd usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics. Live music most evenings.QE3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15
(entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW

SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

W Wifi

V Home delivery

L Guarded parking

22 Moscow In Your Pocket

Korchma Taras Bulba


This popular Ukrainian restaurant chain is great fun
in a kitsch style. They serve hearty traditional Ukrainian food, although you do have an option to get most
dishes in small portions so you can taste a lot of everything. Entertainment is provided by the dancing
waiters and the amusingly terrible English translations
of their dishes.QD4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 14, bldg.1,
MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 37 60, www.
tarasbulba.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00. . PA S
Nikolai Bar and Buffet
he first thing to note about Nikolai Bar and Buffet is
that its not a buffet. Instead, it is a restaurant offering a selection of Russian pirogi, sweet and savoury
pies stuffed with meat, cheeses, vegetables and fruit.
Alongside this, Nikolai has daily soups, salads and a dish
of the day as well as a full bar. The food is tasty but
not special, so try the pirogi if you want something different, as they are a traditional Russian treat. Nikolai is
a good option for the thriftier traveller or if you want
a quick bite.QB1, Tverskaya ul. 30/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 45 59, en.bar-bufet.ru. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . PA S W

Asian and Indian


Mandarin. Ducks and Noodles
Mandarin. Ducks and Noodles calls itself a little corner of
Shanghai, bringing modern Chinese cuisine to Moscow
with chef Suy Lei. Its menu is roughly divided between
duck and, well, noodles, with endless types of noodles;
the rice noodles with marbled beef in teriyaki sauce are
recommended. The drinks are made in the next door bar,
Mandarin, and feature delicious mandarin lemonade.
The decor is eclectic, with chandeliers and imitations
of terracotta warriors. This place is worth a visit, and
dont forget your mandarin on the way out!QD2, Bol.
Cherkassky per. 5, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 771 72
04, www.ducksandnoodles.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PA S W
China Club
China Club, opened by restaurateur Arkady Novikov in
2013, greets its clients with typical elite Novikovian
flair, with stellar service and corresponding pricing,
while the food does not disappoint. Though the name
leads one to think otherwise, China Club serves not
only Pan-Asian cuisine, such has sushi and Asian-inspired salads, and even Peruvian fare, but also more familiar European dishes, among them beef stroganoff.
The imperialistic touch of the umbrella name China
minimal authentic decoration need overlooking, this
restaurant is worth it for its fair portions and inspired
combinations.QA1, ul. Krasina 21, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 27 78, www.novikovgroup.
ru/restaurants/china-club. Open 12:00 - 21:00. .
AS W
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
Novikov Restaurant & Bar
If you are in the mood to splurge on a meal and feel like a
wealthy Russian businessman, then Novikov Restaurant at
the Ritz Carlton is the place for you. The restaurant supposedly mirrors its London and Dubai counterparts- with the
sushi overseen by Japanese chef Sae Yamaoka. The PanAsian-centred menu leaves nothing amiss, even including traditional Russian fare. Complimentary vegetables
are offered, but the portions of main dishes resemble
tapas. Do try the wild strawberry tart. While touring the
Tverskaya, why not try some expensive, exotic eats?QC3,
The Ritz-Carlton, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 797 57 20, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/
novikov-moskva. Open 12:00 till the last guest. .
PASW
Zodiac
Instead of deciding between Chinese and Japanese cuisine, your best bet is trying a fusion of the two and visiting
Zodiac, the pan-Asian playground of Moscows noteworthy chef, Vladimir Mukhin. Zodiac is simple yet playful: the
contemporary design includes a wall of plants, while the
menu ranges from wok noodles and sushi to whimsical
dishes, such as pig ears with green apples and shiso leaves.
The waiters recommendation of crispy eggplants with
tomatoes in duck sauce is a must. Overall, too unique a restaurant to be missed.QA4, Smolenskaya pl. 3, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 230 02 30, www.zodiacmoscow.
ru. . PASW

PhoBo
Now you don't need to get on a plane to Hanoi or Ho Chi
Minh to enjoy authentic Vietnamese street food! Just find
your closest "PhoBo. Hanoi Street Food" location and indulge your senses in the legendary Pho soup (in one of
the few different variations), Thai Tom Yum with seafood
or one of the rice or noodle dishes. Wash it down with
some craft beer, beer from Belgium, the UK, Germany or
the Czech Republic, tea or some traditional Vietnamese
coffee. And the best part: the average bill usually comes to
400Rbl!QC2, Ul. Pushechnaya 7/5 bldg. 2, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 926 163 39 38, www.vietcafe.com. Open
Sun - Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 05:00. . AW
VietCafe
It used to be hard to have a decent Vietnamese meal in Moscow but then along came VietCafe. Over the last 10 years
it has become so popular and beloved by Muscovites and
guests from Europe and Asia that it now numbers 12 locations in Moscow alone, becoming Russias first Vietnamese
chain. The menu features traditional North Vietnamese
dishes like Pho, Nem, Banh Cuom and other meat and fish
delicacies. Finish off your meal with traditional Vietnamese
coffee. Also there are the restaurants of this chain at the addresses: Gazetny per. 3 (. Okhotny Ryad), ul. Bol. Yakimanka
31 (M. Polyanka), Chayanova ul. 22/4 (M. Novoskobodskaya)
and Nikoloyamskaya ul. 26 (M. Taganskaya).QE2, Ul. Pokrovka 21 - 23/25, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 409 51 91,
www.vietcafe.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW

WINTER
HAPPENINGS

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Winter 2016 - 2017

23

Where to eat
Beer Restaurants
British Queen
British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its sleeve
- from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical
British boozer, and it boasts the welcome sight of beers from
Cornwall's St. Austell Brewery among the usual suspects on
tap, closer inspection reveals it to be surprisingly Russian.
QC2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
495 226 23 23, britishqueen.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri
10:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEW
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from
the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture,
you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including
the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum
temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases
its true flavour.QD4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW

Metropol Hotel
If you already love popping
by the Metropol Hotel, this
news will have you considering moving in for good!
First, in December and January Metropol will be home
to a pop-up dessert bar to
really get you in that sweet,
delicious holiday spirit. So if
youre passing by Teatralnaya Square and your nose picks
up an irresistible whiff of chocolate, ginger and cinnamon
that means youre just steps away from Metropols dessert
bar and really ought to go in and spoil yourself. Secondly,
as is by now tradition, Metropol is throwing a fabulous
New Years Eve celebration, this time around with an Italian Night theme. Songs from Naples, waltzes from Verdis
operas, the awe-inspiring Italian singers Matthew Lee and
Valerio Sgargi, as well as jazz orchestra Dance Land will have
the entertainment part covered. Metropols brand chef Andrey Shmakov is in charge of the extravagant dinner menu,
so rest assured that you will have a delectable start to 2017.
Last but not least, on January 8th Metropol is hosting a
fairytale-like Christmas party with a festive 3-course meal,
dance master-classes from Russias best teachers of historic dance, orchestra music, a photo session using cameras
from the 1860s and historical attire, educational excursions
around the historic Metropol itself, a DJ spinning away on
gramophones from the beginning of the 20th century and
for the younger guests, highly skilled nannies and fun a program to make sure theyre not bored for even one second.
QC-2, Hotel Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 480 03 92, www.metropol-moscow.ru.
24 Moscow In Your Pocket

Pilsner Paveletskaya
Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy
Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer
sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of
other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also
at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka),
Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD5, Ozerkovskaya
nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.
pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PASW

Cafes & Bakeries


Bublik
Set across the bright surroundings of a 19th Century house
on one of the citys most verdant boulevards, this delightful
deli style bakery is an inviting place to sit and enjoy a coffee
and a pie or a real sandwich. The staff work well and with
grace, despite having to wear bizarre giant chefs hats and
everything is fresh.QB2, Tverskoy bul. 24, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 13 42, www.ginza.ru. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PASW
Jeffreys Coffee
In Jeffreys you pay for the time you are at this American coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks and
during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps get a little
work done. In the evening this bar becomes jazzy, with live
music and a homey atmosphere.QD2, Ul. Maroseyka 15,
MKitay-Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www.jeffreyscoffee.
ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. . PAW
Khleb and Co
This swanky little bakery, near the Church of Christ the Saviour is just the spot to pick up a lunch time snack, breakfast
croissant or a crusty fresh loaf to go with that soup youre
planning for dinner. Also at Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro
Chistye Prudy).QB4, Ul. Ostozhenka 3, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 926 091 15 98, www.x-co.ru. Open 08:00
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. . PASW

Caucasian
Dzhon Dzholi
The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for
anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course
top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and
chicken chkmeruli which should excite the taste buds. Their
huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.jonjoli.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PASW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian dcor, low lighting, and even a
pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscows finest. The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes,
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD3, Maly Ivanovsky
per. 9, MKitai-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.
noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAVSW
Sakhli
Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes the excellent lobio kakhetinsky, the
irresistible cheese khinkali and the grilled meats. A mix of
cold pkhali featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal.Q1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1,
MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/
en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAESW
Saperavi
The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty
take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for example
with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They do an excellent
job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on
offer and how best to accompany them.Q1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89
93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat
11:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW

European
Gratzi
On a rainy autumn day its especially important to have a
place that will teleport you somewhere sunny and warm.
Gratzi restaurant at the Moscow Marriott Tverskaya Street
is this place. A warm and welcoming Mediterranean vibe
is complemented by a menu full of international dishes
as well as local discoveries. The carpaccio is intermingled
with red caviar and salads in the appetizer section, soups
include the famous Russian borsch as well as international
stars like goulash, the pizzas, pastas and risottos will make
you feel like youre perched away on a Tuscan hill and the
hearty club sandwiches, meats, seafood and, of course,
desserts are sure to delight anyone.QB1, Marriott Moscow Tverskaya, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/
hotels/travel/mowtv-moscow-marriott-tverskayahotel/. Open: 06:30 24:00. . PTAW
Premier
The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Renaissance Monarch hotel, serving contemporary European
cuisine with a Pan-Asian twist. So if you are a fan of tom
yam, shiitake mushrooms, fried king prawns but also can
enjoy something classic like the Kamchatka crab salad you
will love this place because they have it all. Dont forget
their famous desserts - we have tried a cucumber souffl
with mojito ice cream and ginger crme brle - it was
delicious!QA1, Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre
Hotel, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
ru. Open 18:30 - 23:00. . PAW
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Winter 2016 - 2017

25

Where to eat
Maslenitsa and Bliny
The week before Lent
(post in Russian) is
known as Maslenitsa
and is one of the most
popular Russian tradition. Running from
February 20th to the
26th, and known in
other cultures as Mardi
Gras or Carnival, it gives an opportunity to fatten up for
a whole week in preparation for 40 long days and nights
of fasting. Though Maslenitsa has been absorbed into
Ortodox tradition, it has ancient pagan roots and coincides with the period when the ancient Slavs would
celebrate the end of winter and the arrival of spring
(regardless of the fact that it is probably still snowing),
hence many pagan activities; such as the burning of
a scarecrow representing winter, are key elements of
Maslenitsa. You will find mounds of bliny on offer in
the citys many restaurants and cafs throughout this
week. Bliny pancakes, an indispensable part of Russias culinary tradition and come stuffed with sweet
or savoury fillings limited only by ones imagination.
Typical savoury favourites: ham, caviar, cheese, mushrooms, sour cream, pate or boiled eggs and cabbage.
On the sweeter side you can have it with jam or varenye
(chunky, sweet fruit preserve), honey, tvorog (sweet
Russian version of cottage cheese) or condensed milk.
Flotilla Radisson restaurant
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian
accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking
in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests
to Moscow to join us on the route, it's regularly got the
thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it's already
time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and
figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab.,
Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55,
www.radisson-cruise.ru. . PTAW

International
Carlson
Carlson is a rooftop restaurant with a great lookout onto
Red Square. This place doesn't only provide a feast for the
eyes, however; a menu will satisfy the stomach as well.
Conveniently located close to the Tretyakov Gallery and
the Novokuznetskaya station. If you're planning a weekend
visit, make sure to reserve a table in advance.QD4, Ovchinnikovskaya nab. 20, bldg.1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
985 751 19 19, www.ginza.ru/msk/restaurant/karlson.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAESW
26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Deti Raika
The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting
to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this
their favourite hangout. Deti Raika or Children of Paradise
is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner's favourite
film. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz
to lounge and even French chansons this place comes
recommended.QB3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTAEW
Grand Alexander
Culinary director Thierry Vergnault has reinvented the city
lunch format: the four menu options change every week and
guests can take their pick of meat, fish or vegetarian dishes.
The menu is very international and you will find delicious European fare alongside Russian classics. Prices are very reasonable, with a 2-course lunch priced at 550Rbl and a 3-course
lunch priced at 650Rlb. Grand Alexander looks forward to
welcoming guests for the new city lunch Mondays to Fridays,
between 12:00 and 15:00.QB1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MTverskaya, Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. Open 12:30 - 23:00. . PAW
Townhouse
The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so
a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! An
aprs lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the
bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable
arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which
is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD5,
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.mercure.
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. . PTASW

Italian
Balzi Rossi
If you think of where the elite and wealthy of Moscow may
dine, think of Balzi Rossi. The restaurant was conceptualised by Patrick Bochard, whose influence is immediate
upon entering the restaurant where you are greeted by an
entirely French staff. Despite the French atmosphere, the
menu offers Italian and Asian dishes, not to mention an extensive wine selection. QA2, Kudrinskaya pl. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 144 74 14, balzi-rossi.ru/en/. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 01:00. . PAW
MoMo
Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia in
Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food,
offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza
and pasta, and a selection of French and Italian vintage wines.
Its business class clientele are spread across three main rooms,
the largest of which resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD5, Pyatnitskaya ul.
66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.
momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PASW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
Seafood

Steak Houses

Ervin: Reka More Okean


The first choice you are faced with in the fabulous fish restaurant Ervin, is where to sit. In summer it is tempting to linger outside in the airy terrace surrounded by greenery, but the elegant
interior of the restaurant is not to be disregarded. Secondly,
you will have to agonise over the seemingly endless choices
of fish, from shellfish, to baked fish, to sashimi, there is something to satisfy any ocean-related cravings. The staff, whilst
they take some time to warm up, are happy to help you find
the perfect wine to accompany your meal.QA3, Kutuzovsky
pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 785 02 22, www.
rappoport.restaurant.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PAW

Flat Iron Bar & Roadhouse


Flat Iron is reminiscent of a classic American steakhouse
and boasts a menu to live up to that expectation. Its
got everything from chargrilled chicken to your classic
burger, and theres also a variety of more unusual dishes
for those that want something a bit different. The dishes
are well prepared, the staff are warm and attentive and
its central location make it perfect for those staying in
the Marriott or nearby.QB2, Courtyard by Marriott,
Voznesensky per. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
30 77, www.marriott.com. Open 11:00 - 02:00. .
PA S W

Porto Maltese
The popular Porto Maltese chain resprects the traditions
of excellent seafood. The dcor has a strong sea-faring flavor, matching a menu which offers more than 20 different
types of fish and seafood all of which are regularly flown
in direct from the Med. The buzare fish soup is regarded
as classic warmer, while exotic offerings include swordfish
and skate wings as well as all the usual fishy favorites. Also
at Bol. Spasskaya ul. 8 (metro Sukharevskaya), ul. Pravdy 21
(metro Belorusskaya), in Vegas Crocus City shopping mall
(metro Myakinino) and Khodinsky Bulvar 4 (metro Polezhaevskaya).QBusiness center Monarch, Leningradsky pr.
31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 85, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW

Polo club
The refined and sophisticated Polo Clubs defining dish is its
outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It needs
to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12 hours. If you
cant think that far ahead the Angus, Prime and Kobe steaks
on offer are also outstanding. Make sure you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has been completely
revamped, taking on Asian influences which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authentic (and very spicy!) tom
yam soup and a mouthwatering Asian salmon teriyaki.QC2,
Marriott Royal Aurora, ul. Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 10 24, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.
com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. . PASW

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Winter 2016 - 2017

27

Nightlife
The original city that doesnt sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether youre
after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face
control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults,
a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you
can hole up til the wee small hours, you wont be disappointed.

live music
Cult Club
At first glance it seems like a small underground place,
but there is in fact a whole other huge caf/restaurant
area hidden round the back which really fills up when a
popular DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and
the air-con works marginally better back there. The music
here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and
you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle
here.QE3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW
DeFAQto
This third venue in the FAQ chain is like a strange cross
between English pub and American bar, with a stage
that would suit stand-up comedy well. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth
seating in particular is nice for smaller groups.QD2, Ul.
Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7)
495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 24h. PAEW
Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da
Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club,
attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large
numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you'll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast;
it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit
the spot so don't worry about that hunger craving after a
few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD3, Lubyansky
proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56
11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW

Bars
Cross Keys Pub
After a nice long walk around the historic center of Moscow, visitors can take a break and absorb all the beauty
they have just seen over a nice, cool pint of beer and
hearty pub food in Cross Keys Pub, an exciting new comer
on Moscows food and beer scene! Located in a no less
historic building (in the 19th century it was Major Novosiltsevs estate and then converted into a prestigious
boarding school for the sons of nobility), Cross Keys Pub
has more than 18 types of beer on tap, a food menu comprising no-fuss European and English pub classics and live
music on select days. Its definitely a great place to kick
back and relax with friends after a long day of work or after
catching a play at Lenkom Theater, located just a few steps
away.QB2, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 3, MChekhovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 636 29 55. . PAW
MyBar
This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bars philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some
fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscows
glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection
varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with
some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from
rock and blues bands.QC2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.
Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAE
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscow's hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties
depending on the weekend DJs. When its warm outside
the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is a
lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.QC4, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEW
Hard Rock Cafe
This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun.
Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a
central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth
above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea
than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They
play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there's a

28 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early
and eat before you go.Q3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri and
Sat 24h. PAEW
Tiki-Bar
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly
from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas
at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want
a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum
as well as an exotic choice of cocktails.QA2, SadovayaKudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87
02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24h, Open 24hrs. . PW

Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscow's longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday /
Sunday R'nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed "face control" makes it a fun
night out for those who don't want to deal with the attitude of Moscow's glamour clubs. Q4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 21:00 - 10:00. PAEW
Propaganda
A cafe club has a chilled out vibe that is popular with
everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or
worse you're never long without a tipple. The food is
reasonably priced portion-wise and the lounge-house
sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in.QD2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky
per. 7, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.
propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 06:00. PENW
Zazhigalka
Uncensored Relaxation! Descending to the basement, we
find ourselves in a dark, intimate room. The black walls,
and the red decorations and lighting complete the scene.
In the centre of the room there is of course a pole, where
enchanting girls show off their skills in exotic dance. There
are also VIP rooms and a private cabin. 18+.QLesnaya ul.
43, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 800 333 88 68, www.msk.
russtriptease.com. Open 20:00 - 06:00. PAW

To read about even more


bars, pubs and clubs
in Moscow and find out about all the latest
gigs check out our website
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Cocktail Bars
Dream Bar
The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic,
strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is
close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a
cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of
choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices
are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and
tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the afterwork crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it's
time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621
77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
O2 Lounge
Welcome to the most notoriously glamorous terrace in
Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity you can think
of has been up at this prohibitively expensive cocktail
lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with
everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding
view of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never
was an economic crisis.QC2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel,
Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88
88, www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PALEBW
Winter 2016 - 2017

29

What to see

The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the citys
development outwards over the centuries. In the middle
there is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which houses the political HQ of the planets largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various
architectural styles. While much is out of bounds to tourists,
being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest. There are a number of ticket
booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky
Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great
people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave
any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket
office, under the gate.Q-3, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel.
(+7) 495 695 41 46, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Thu.

Inside the Kremlin


Cathedral of the Archangel Michael
A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian
rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian
renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets
and white stonework.
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russias Tsars were
christened and married, was built by Pskov architects
in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some
of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent
artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried
here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all
worked on them.

The tickets for special exhibitions can usually


be bought at the entrance to the buildings in
which they are held, although it is advisable
to check before you enter the Kremlin.
30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Church of the Deposition of the Robes


Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgins
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption
Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable
for Napoleons horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with
the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing
over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they
caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the
last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nations
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial
clothes and carriages. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury
tickets can only be used after the time printed on them.
They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.QThe
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 300 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
DIAMOND FOND
Few visitors to the city are aware of the fact that exhibited within the Armoury building is the Diamond Collection of the Russian State. Here, one can feast their eyes
on the unique corpus of modern and historical jewellery,
enormous diamonds, medals, precious and semiprecious
stones, gold and platinum bars, as well as masterpieces
of jewel craft - namely, the imperial crown and sceptre,
with the famous diamond eagle.QThe Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission
300 - 700Rbl. It is advisable to book tickets in advance.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.

Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. Theyll search your pockets to make sure
you dont sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you cant mess with him.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is free.
St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Russias most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terribles crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan,
a victory which secured Moscows position as the regions
dominant city. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless
icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russias history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards
the west and the east. A visit inside St Basils gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of
the latter.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. From
May 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
State Historical Museum
Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of
the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The State Historical Museum is surely one of Russias finest treasures, with more
than 4.5mln items and about 14mln sheets of documents. The
Museums collection is second to none in the country and offers an assortment of paleontology, science, technology, archeology and history monuments; masterpieces of painting, drawing, sculpture, works of decorative, religion, literature, music,
theater arts, and architecture. The art design of the museum
building was created by architect Vladimir Sherwood and engineer Anatoly Semyonov, and the design of Museums unique
halls by the most famous architects and artists (think Bondarenko, Popov, Aivazovsky, Vasnetsov, Serov, Karolin and Repin).
QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37
31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
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Winter 2016 - 2017

31

What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
Moscow is home to more than 300 churches. The majority of Russians belong to the Russian Orthodox Church,
although, as a result of the fact that Moscow is a multiethnic city, there are many religious denominations, including the Roman Catholic Church and the Seventh-day
Adventist Church. Up until 1917, there were more than
1000 churches in the city.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look
like. It is so immense youll be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the
first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny
beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a
close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built

City Sightseeing
Moscow

Bright red double-decker tour buses are prowling


Moscows streets, giving visitors a great view of the
city centre. The Hop On-Hop Off tour offers excursions around town in twelve languages, and guests
can buy a 2 days ticket and jump on and off the buses
as often as they like, in theory using any stop on either of the two routes. In practice, its usually easiest
to gather at the main stops near the Pushkin Fine Arts
Museum, the Tretyakov Gallery or the Bolshoi Theatre - this is where buses tend to wait longest. The
shorter red route takes just over an hour and circles
the city centre, staying close to the Kremlin walls and
taking in a stretch of the leafy Boulevard Ring while
the longer green route also goes over the river for
views of two of the Stalin-era Seven Sister skyscrapers. Both tours include the greatest hits of Moscows
unique and unforgettable city centre, with its distinctive architecture, intriguing museums and exciting
cultural life. Buses usually run at 20-minute intervals,
depending on the traffic situation. Check the route
on page 62-65. QBuses leave from Bolotnaya nab.,
Luzhkov bridge, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96, www.citysightseeing.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Tickets for 2 days: 1200Rbl for adults, 900Rbl
for senior citizens and students, 700Rbl for children
6 - 13 years old.
32 Moscow In Your Pocket

in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where
you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they
had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10
people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view
from the collonade. QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 12 76, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours
in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (prebooking required call (+7) 495 637 12 76).
Danilov Monastery
This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevskys son Danil, has been in the news of late with
the return of their original 18 church bells from Harvard in
the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were
recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt)
of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets
and the first to be reopened under Gorbachev in 1983.
QDanilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 958 11
07, www.msdm.ru. Open 6:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
Donskoy Monastery
The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this wellkept monastery, originally part of Moscows fortifications.
The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the
main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you
enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox
Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded
by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very
popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century
miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside
the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour
of the Churchs efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century
churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century.QDonskaya pl. 1,
MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www.donskoi.
org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Novodevichy Monastery
On the grounds surrounded
by the Kremlinesque walls,
which were built to act as a
fortress, are four cathedrals
including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky
Cathedral which dates back
to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from
the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look
at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here.
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 100 - 300Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see
Museums

river cruises

AZ Museum
A museum dedicated to
the work of the Soviet-era,
non-conformist painter Anatoly Zverev, AZ Museum was
opened last year but is already a must for anyone with
an interest in contemporary
art. The artist is considered
the founder of the Russian
impressionism of the 1960s, but his style of painting is very
much his own. AZ Museum is the perfect place to get acquainted with his art since it holds the largest collection of
Zverevs paintings in the world with over 1,500 of his works
and 500 works of those he affiliated himself with (Plavinsky,
Nemukhin, Rabin and many others). Q B-2, 2-ya Tverskaya
Yamskaya ul. 20-22 bldg.2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 730 55 26, www.museum-az.com. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 400Rbl.
Museum of Russian Icon
One of the best icon collections in the city. The museum holds over 4500 pieces
of art, including rare antique
and late Roman samples and
icons belonging to Russias
last Tsar. The iconography on
display includes works from
numerous epochs, regions
and painting schools and in the restoration workshop at the
weekend you can see expert restorers and artists applying
their skills.QB2, Goncharnaya ul. 3/1, MTaganskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 221 52 83, www.russikona.ru/en. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission free.
Skryabin Museum
This tiny but well-preserved
museum is a must-see for
amateurs of the eccentric
composer Alexander Scryabin (1872-1915). Most of
the original furnishings have
been retained and each
seems to have a story to tell.
By far the most interesting of
these is an unusual device made by the man himself. As a
synaesthete, Scryabin associated different musical tonalities
with different colours. This led him to construct some unusual contraptions which allowed him to compose pieces
for piano and coloured lights, one of which can be seen in
the museum. This flat is where he spent the last three years
of his life.QB3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 19 01, www.anscriabin.ru. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl. Free entrance third
Sun of month.
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A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways


to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled
views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave
behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside
the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalins
Seven Sisters. Across the river is the other White House,
the house of the Russian government. A few minutes sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls,
Tolstoys Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov
and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque
walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite
bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of
a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a
glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State
University, the worlds tallest educational building and
the big sister of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we
reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the
diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands
the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three
hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian
sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction
of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at
its imposing domes, its hard to believe that this was once
a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over
the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St
Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built
to house the Soviet elite. From the river weve got perfect
views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it
as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia
itself. Even after half a millennia St Basils idiosyncratic
domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so
beautiful ever again.
QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina
pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.
radisson-cruise.ru. From Pier Ukraina and from
pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from
13:00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance
(tickets can also be bought online). Check the full
schedule and prices online. PAUKW

Winter 2016 - 2017

33

What to see
Gogol House
This house has a very rich
history dating back to the
early 17th century and had
belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials,
army generals and even
the members of the Tolstoy
family. However, the most
famous resident to have
ever inhabited this manor
was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the
most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian
literary realism and author of such classics as The Nose,
Viy, The Overcoat, The Government Inspector and, of
course, Dead Souls. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent
the last four years of his life here, this is the place where
the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It
was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and
in this very house, on February 21st, 1852 that the writer
died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that
keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a
research library of over 250,000 volumes, an exhibition hall
and a memorial museum.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58 81, www.domgogolya.
ru. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed last Tue of the month.
Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
State Central Museum of Contemporary
History of Russia
Start early in the day with
this one. Theres a whole
century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen
and absorbed. Housed in a
1780s mansion and former
premises of the Moscow
English Club, this grand
dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now
that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering
all aspects of Russias recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Dont linger too much in the Revolutionary phase
or youll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts,
and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated
to Russias answer to the Beatles.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 21,
MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 54 58, www.sovrhistory.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00. Closed Mon.
Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 16 years old free.

Find more information on museums and parks of


Moscow in the Moscow In Your Pocket mini-guide
34 Moscow In Your Pocket

All-Russian Decorative Art Museum


Hidden in a courtyard, this
museum maintains more
than 200,000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all
over Russia. There are several
beautifully decorated tea
sets, plates and figurines the porcelain from the postrevolutionary Soviet period
is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional
Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery
and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and
mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of
the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries.QC-1,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the
month. Admission 130 - 250Rbl. Children till 7 years old
free entrance. NK
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the
worlds art in the form of
plaster casts. It also has works
by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. In
1924 the museum saw the
first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by
the addition of many works
from the 19th century. Its a
manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you
are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose
structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists
are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge.QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00
- 20:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150
- 500Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.
Tretyakov Gallery
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous
Russian soul, the Tretyakov Gallery is a place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the worlds
number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite
and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged
and prescient canvases of Russias favourite realist master,
Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into
the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired
people.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 400Rbl. Complex ticket to Tretyakov Gallery
on Lavrushinsky per. and Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val
250 - 700Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a
month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which
enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a
selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels
to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find
out where these hotels are located and what market
they cater for.

5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231
rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 9,440Rbl).
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at
19,000Rbl).
Sheraton Palace
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).
The Ritz-Carlton
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl).
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4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. (Room prices start at
5,100Rbl.)
Adagio Moscow Kievskaya
QA-4, Kievskaya ul. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660
53 53, www.accorhotels.com. (Room prices start at
5500Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl).
Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City
Center Hotel
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).
Holiday Inn Suschevsky
QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82
82, www.holidayinn.com. (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
Winter 2016 - 2017

35

Where to stay
concierge interview
Interview with Inna Belous,
concierge at the St.Regis
Moscow Nikolskaya Hotel.
Please tell us something
about yourself and your
career. I have been a concierge for nearly twelve
years and in 2012 I joined
Les Clefs d`Or Russia. I used to live and work in Crimea
before moving to Moscow in 2015.
What would you recommend to see in Moscow during the holiday season? What will be interesting to do
in winter? Each year everybody looks forward to the New
Years celebrations, expecting some kind of miracle. Moscow
is like a fairytale during the winter holidays and is filled with
the festive atmosphere of New Years fairs. Many ice skating
rinks are open around the city. The nicest ones are in the
citys parks and in my opinion, the best one is at VDNH. After all, its the largest skating rink in the world at over 20,000
square meters! Another fantastic New Years Eve events is
always The Nutcracker ballet in the Bolshoi Theatre.
Are there any hidden treasures in Moscow youd
recommend? Few people know that there is an old and
wonderful national park in Moscow and it is called Losiny
Ostrov (Moose Island). It is beautiful at any time of year but
is especially magical in the winter. Not only because you
can wander around enjoying the peaceful surroundings,
but also because you might encounter wandering elks
near you! Theres an interesting museum on site and one
can go cross-country skiing there or in the nearby Sokolniki Park as well. A little museum called Lights of Moscow
on Armyansky pereulok 3/5 shows how Moscow became
brighter century after century. The museums yard boasts a
little exhibition of street lanterns from different eras. After
spending a day admiring all the splendid decorations and
sights it might be a good idea to go to a banya - a Russian steam bath - to get warm. I recommend visiting the
Sanduny, the oldest public bathhouse in Russia. I personally recommend to choose a private room with the interior
designed to reflect the Russian fairytale about Tsar Saltan
and enjoy a birch broom massage - the experience cannot
get any more Russian!
How will you celebrate the New Years Eve this year
and what are your plans for the next year? As for
me, my family and friends make all the preparations for
New Years Eve in advance. There is an old Russian saying: a good New Years celebration makes a good year.
We get together around the table full of festive dishes,
recall funny stories, exchange gifts and, of course, toast to
a fruitful New Year when the clock strikes midnight and
make a wish. Next year, however, I want to celebrate New
Years Eve in an unusual way, with a palm tree adorning
my apartment rather than the traditional pine tree!
36 Moscow In Your Pocket

Novotel Moscow City Hotel


QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com.
360Total rooms.
Novotel Moscow Kievskaya
QA-4, Kievskaya ul. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 53
53, www.novotel.com.
Radisson Blu Belorusskaya Hotel
QA1, Ul. 3-ego Yamskogo Polya 26, bldg. A, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 00, www.radissonblu.
com/belorusskayahotel-moscow. (Room prices start at
6,500Rbl).
Renaissance Moscow
Monarch Centre Hotel
QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).

3 stars
Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,500Rbl).
Cosmos Hotel Moscow
QPr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 10 00, www.
hotelcosmos.ru/eng. (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl.)
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,990Rbl).
Ibis Moscow Kievskaya
QA-4, Kievskaya ul. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660
53 53, www.accorhotels.com. Room prices start at
3,500Rbl.
Ibis Paveletskaya
QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661
85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start
at 3,900Rbl).
Heliopark Empire
QA1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul. 60/1, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 251 64 13, www.heliopark.ru. (Room prices
start at 3,500Rbl.)
Hotel Ermitage
QE3, Durasovsky per. 7, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627
50 00, www.ermitagehotel.ru. (Room prices start at
3,900Rbl.)

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are


obliged to register within seven working days
(this excludes weekends and public holidays).
Remember your hotel is obliged to register
you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses
to register you make sure you complain the
registrations is their responsibility, not yours!
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
TSUM

Russian Souvenirs

Spritely, designer loving


Tsum has all the labels youve
ever seen and then some
more youve never heard of.
Its also a good place to hunt
down designer fur. Womens
fashion is on the third floor;
mens on the second; and childrens and youth fashion
on the fourth. The cafe on the top level also has a sushi
menu as Russian fashionistas cant get enough of it! Sales
racks - for the optimistic - are on the fifth floor with the
home and bathroom accessories. QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 2,
MOkhotny Ryad, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru.

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs and we are not


just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If
you are looking to take some extra special gifts home
with you we recommend you consider buying some
of the following:

Gifts and Souvenirs


Dulyovsky farfor
QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
Q-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
692 44 12, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
Prosto Tak
QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755
75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
Russian gift
QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495
223 45 45, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. ALK

Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
GUM
Q-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Okhotny Ryad
Q-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW

Supermarkets
Gum Gastronom 1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24h. ALK
Katusha
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www.katushafood.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Yeliseevsky
Q-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24h. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Platok
A perfect present for any
female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed
and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit
of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or
serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around
the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats.
The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a womans wedding ring.
Palekh
Palekh is a small town located 360km to the east
of Moscow, which became
famous in Russia for its
specialty in painting icons
and iconography, and had
developed its own unique
style. Their work became
highly demanded for the
adornment of Orthodox
churches, and can be found all over Russia, even within
the Kremlin itself. The style is unique for its use of tempera paints, often on black backgrounds, and oranamented with gold-leaf overlays for highlighting. The
origins and inspirations of their paintings and works
were religious in nature, and so after the revolution
and the bolsheviks strict policy of atheism, the painters had to move to new directions to continue their
craft and make a living, and so the began making small
boxes, cases for cigarettes, etc, and instead drew images of Russian fairytales and folk stories.
Caviar
Black beluga caviar is still
one of the most expensive
foods on the planet and a
small jar can set you back
more than $100 if you buy
it in the market. Never buy
caviar from street touts,
more often than not it is
fake and/or illegal.
Winter 2016 - 2017

37

Business & Expat


The Expat Experience
Interview with Pavel Jindra,
General Manager at the
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
Hotel.
Please tell us something
about yourself and your
career. I was born in Prague,
Czech Republic, where I started to work for a Hilton flagship property with almost 800
rooms and meeting space for up to 2000 guests. Traveling has always given me great pleasure. Thanks to my
job I get to discover new places and have joy in life and
my work, which I love. My career focuses on the Food &
Beverage sector, which means I have the chance to taste
so many amazing dishes, wines and local products. Over
the last few years I had the chance to work with different people in different environments including Sydney,
the Maldives, Shanghai, Kuwait, Slovakia, Kazakhstan and
now the beautiful historical city of Moscow. I think of myself as a very calm and creative manager.
What makes Moscow special for you? How is it different from the Czech Republic? Back when I was at
school we started with Russian language as the first foreign language to study. Nowadays, I see a big difference
between what was learnt and what is actually needed
in the daily working routine but in general, it helped a
lot. To be fluent in Russian means to be closer to the
culture of people, not to be on the side language-wise.
After the above-mentioned destinations, Moscow reminds me a lot of Europe and my hometown Prague.
Moscow was on my bucket list for a long time, now I live
here and I enjoy it a lot. I see Moscow as very cosmo-

Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.
aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
Q-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
38 Moscow In Your Pocket

politan, with plenty of green parks and a huge variety


of activities. And of course it is not so far away to travel
home to see my loved ones. And what is different? All
is much bigger than in the Czech Republic and I dont
only mean the traffic jams, streets and spacious prospects. I find selected food products to be of a higher
quality level than back home.
Can you name three things about living in Moscow
that you enjoy the most? Can you compare it with
other big cities youve been to/worked in? Metro: I
use it every day and admire its design and history. Russian
pop music & sport: I love to listen to Russian pop music
and follow the achievements in Russian sport. Green parks:
their size, maintenance and variety of activities. Plombir: it
is the 4th thing I like, but still very important! I think Moscow is like any other major city London, Paris, Shanghai
or New York. It is a city of great history, with small streets
and beautiful buildings and of course very nice people. It
is very cosmopolitan, clean and well organized. There are
many cultural and sporting events of high class and the
Bolshoi Theatre there is nothing like this!
What are your favorite spots in and outside the city
to visit in winter? Strolling along the cozy streets in the
historical center at night and warming up in some of the
coffee shops in the city in winter. I am a big tea lover so
Moscow treats me pretty well in this regard. Winter is approaching so we have made plans to feel the real winter
in Siberia.
What are your plans for the New Year holidays?
There is no difference between Czechs and Russians in
this sense: I wish to spend this time with my family back
home and friends. To cook at home, decorate the table
and share the festive traditions together. I hope to find
some time for skiing as well.

Accountants
and Consultants

Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.

Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding


expat destinations. If you would like your expat
group to be featured here, just drop us a line at
ksenia@inyourpocket.com
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Business & Expat


Cultural Centres
British Council
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Canadian Centre
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute/DAAD
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7)
495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/
deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Institut Franais
Q-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/
russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
Neso Russia
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Religious Services
Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPauls cathedral
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
Historical Moscow Mosque
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru.
International Christian Fellowship
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
Moscow Buddhist Centre
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k),
MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/en.
Moscow Choral Synagogue
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.
Seventh-Day Adventist Church
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy
QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8,
MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.
St. Andrews Anglican Church
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the


liden & denz
Dictionary for expats:
So many summers, so many winters!
Skolko let, skolko zim!
The idiom So many summers, so many winters! usually used as a greeting and means that you havent seen
someone for a long period of time. The English equivalent is long time no see.
Liden & Denz
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3
bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Charities
Childrens Hospital Fund
QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44,
www.childhospital.ru.
Marias Children Art Center
QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru.
Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia
QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www.
bbbsrussia.org.
Nastenka Foundation
QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS,
Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980
53 77, www.nastenka.ru.

US Dental Care
Well-established and
long-respected American
Board-certified
dentists and hygienists. They speak English
and Russian, have a full
range of general, specialised and childrens
services, extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself
is spotless and high-tech. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. QOlimpiysky prospect
16, bldg. 5, business center Olympic Hall, MPr.
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
PTAW
Winter 2016 - 2017

39

St. Petersburg

Russias capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business


and pleasure, but sometimes its worth escaping for a few
days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Greats Window
to the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city
easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, theres more than enough
to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Artillery Museum
QAleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.
artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 100 - 400Rbl.
Cruiser Avrora
QE1, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
303 85 13, aurora.org.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 200 - 600Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral
QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46
63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.

getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 43), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
Sapsan) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscows main airports and St.
Petersburgs Pulkovo airport.
40 Moscow In Your Pocket

Kunstkamera
QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
HERMITAGE
QDvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya
pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.
hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed and
Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 600Rbl.
Free entrance 1st Thu of month. You can buy tickets to
the Main Museum Complex and its branches at the ticket
offices inside the museum, via special terminals at the entrance to the Great Courtyard and online (the visitors with
e-tickets and gift cards can use the separate entrance
to the Main Museum Complex through Shuvalovsky
Proezd). Excursion bureau (+7) 812 710 96 88.
Peter and Paul Fortress
QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is
open 09:00 - 20:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 450Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
QSolyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
275 75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Wed 12:30 - 20:30. Closed Tue and last Thu of the
month. Admission 60 - 250Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QNab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98
83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group
tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812
314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 700Rbl.
Russian Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission
150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 200 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaacs Cathedral
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second
Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg
shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALERIA
QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31
72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313
93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.
passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

restaurants
Caviar Bar and Restaurant
QBelmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.caviar-bar.
com. Open Wed - Sun 17:00 - 23:00. .
Idiot
QNab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51
73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1
QKonnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
Tandoor
QAdmiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. .
Palkin
QNevsky pr. 47, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 53
71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
Hamlet&Jacks
QVolynsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 35,
hamletandjacks.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 02:00. .

HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
belmond Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Solo Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. hhhh
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QUl. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky
QNevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10,
www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. hhhh
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
Q9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. hhhh
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QLermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QLigovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01
00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. hhh

Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:28 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:59.
For reservations call 8-800-777-20-19 or book online
at www.poezdmegapolis.ru

Winter 2016 - 2017

41

Russia Travel

Russian photo
Expeditions
Daniel Kordan the man
taking foreigners on photographic journeys around
Russia. Looking through
Daniel Kordans Instagram
page you just wouldnt
believe that some of the
places youre seeing exist
in real life and not in some
fairytale from your childhood. But they do. And some of them are actually in Russia!
Ever since childhood, Daniel Kordan (real name Daniil Korzhonov) has been fascinated by photography and nature.
This fascination has really paid off: Daniel has several photography awards (Golden Turtle 2013 - Nature nomination winner, National Geographic Russia contest 2013 winner, Best of
Russia 2013, 2014 and 2015 winner, Trierenberg Super Circuit
award - best landscape photographer), publications in such
magazines as Digital SLR Magazine, Photography Week, Photography Master Class, National Geographic, Discovery, Photoworld China, Digital Photo (Bauer Media) and some of his
clients include Apple, Gazprom Neft, S7 Airlines and Red Bull.
Daniel is very keen on sharing the actual nature photography
experience with amateur photographers. This is why he leads
photo expeditions around the world - from Greenland to Bolivia and from Chile to Provence. Whats really got us interested, though, are his photo expeditions around Lake Baikal and
the Kamchatka Peninsula. On these expeditions, Daniel takes
foreigners to absolutely stunning yet remote areas of Russia
to photograph some of the most breathtaking scenery on
this planet. Moscow In Your Pocket sat down with Daniel to
have a chat about what he does, why he does and some of
his all time favorite places to photograph.

a landscape, of course: a beautiful sunset against some


trees and a bay. Sadly, those trees no longer exist and the
bay was converted into a resort. But on my very first photo
it will always be the way it was on that day.
When did you decide to turn your hobby into your
job? The hobby decided this for me. And Im still finding
it hard to call it my job because Guess what Im doing on
my vacation? Taking photos, of course! Ive been a photographer for 11 years already and about 3 years ago I became
a nomad, spending the larger part of the year traveling the
world with my camera and my photo-tourists.
When, where and how did you have your first photo
expedition? Luckily for me, during my studies at the Institute of Physics and Technology I gained experience not only
in physics, but also in mountain climbing and hiking. Being
a member of my universitys mountain club meant guiding
tourist groups in winter and in summer around Lake Baikal,
the Caucasus, Tien Shan. I became a photo-workshops guide
and chief editor of the Continent Expedition magazine.
Sometimes we were on the road for months. We wrote awesome travel and adventure articles from over the world, competing even with National Geographic! But if I have to really
think about it, the very first expeditions were in childhood,
when we travelled around our local lakes and forests.
How do people hear about your photo expeditions? I publish a lot: articles, photos on various photography websites
and so on. They get reposted by newsmakers and blogs
and thats how the beauty that I capture spreads around
the world. On my website Danielkordan.com curious photographers can learn all about my tours and the dates.

You have been fascinated with photography since you


were a little child. Do you remember the first photo you
took? I grew up in Shatura, a beautiful lake region not too
far from Moscow, and spent most of my time exploring
wild nature. I took my first photos were on a Kiev camera,
thats a film 4*5 camera. I remember my favorite place not
far from Moscow in my native town of Shatura. Its an area
of beautiful lakes and deep forests. The very first photo was
42 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Russia Travel
What are some of your favorite places on this planet to
photograph and why? This is a difficult question for any
photographer but Ill provide you with my shortlist:
1. Greenland thanks to all of the hidden, unexplored and
remote places. One can find an incredible combination of
beautiful mountains, icebergs, exotic villages, fjords and
emerald lakes and the magnificent Northern Lights.
2. Patagonia for its epic mountains and absolutely stunning
scenery!
3. Lake Baikal in the winter. Its not covered with snow, so
you can travel on pure ice for hundreds of kilometres!
4. Kamchatka. The wild, beautiful and unspoiled nature
makes it a photographers paradise. Multiply the grandeur
of Iceland by 3-4 times and youll get Kamchatkas volcanic
landscape!
What are some of the best places for photo enthusiasts in
Russia? Lake Baikal is one of the main wonders in Russia. It
is especially beautiful in winter. Where else can you see a
huge lake not covered with snow? When you step onto the
ice you feel like in outer space, there is a meter of clear ice
and a kilometer of the purest water under your feet. Photographers adore Lake Baikal because you can see ice textures, Olkhon rocks and a great number of ice grottoes and
caves. It is comfortable to travel around Lake Baikal today
there are comfortable modern lodges with room facilities
and cafes on Olkhon Island.
Kamchatka is a land of volcanoes and geysers. Honestly, I
could go on and on trying to tell you of the peninsulas immense beauty but I think having a look at my photos from
there will do Kamchatka much better justice. Also, the Altai Mountains and the Russian north are definitely worth
checking out with your camera in hand.

What advice could you give our readers to take the perfect
nature photograph?
Be very patient. Make meticulous preparations for your trip,
taking into account transportation, light conditions, seasonal phenomena (like flowers blooming or ice conditions).
But ultimately, composition and light decide everything!

www.danielkordan.com
www.instagram.com/danielkordan
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Solovki
By Luc Jones
The Solovetsky Islands archipelago is one of those places
which people talk about, say that they would love to visit
but disappointing few ever actually do. This, however is
part of the attraction as you wont meet hoards of tourists
in this largely unspoilt part of Russia yet you can get off
the beaten track without having to completely rough it.
Oh, and the name is typically shortened to Solovki.

Although its believed that Solovki have been inhabited for millennia, it was back in 1429 when monks
first built a wooden hermitage on the main island and
in the 1570s a much larger, stone fortress was built
around it as a defense against Swedish attacks. Even
British frigates attacked it during the Crimean war but
the monastery remained intact. Worse was to come
after the October Revolution when the islands were
turned into a labour camp for enemies of the people.
Even if youre not a museum buff and you dont speak
(much) Russian, the main museum on the island is
worth a visit as it is dedicated to those who were interned here during the Stalinist era. Theres no English
translation but the photos, pictures and artifacts speak
for themselves. Entrance is 200Rbl.
Although Solovki ceased to function as a gulag in 1939
(it became a naval training base), the monastery was
badly damaged yet restoration work began only in the
1960s. Monks returned in the 1980s and the islands acquired UNESCO status in 1992, yet even today much of
the inner parts are covered in scaffolding, spoiling your
photos. Given its central location, the monastery is a
logical place to your sightseeing and you dont have to
be a committed God botherer to appreciate both the inner and outer buildings. Entry is free although following
Orthodox tradition, ladies are expected to cover their
heads (scarves are provided).
Behind the monastery is the local tourist office which can
help organize excursions to more remote places which require motorized transport, be it a 4 x 4, or a boat to neighbouring islands although some attractions are easily walk
able from your hotel. Kick off with labyrinth of mysterious
stone circles a ten-minute walk south from the towns
Winter 2016 - 2017

43

Russia Travel
centre, by the sea shore, and the botanical gardens are a 3
KM walk north and also worth a visit. The other museum
of note is a converted boat and tells a history of the region
with a maritime flavor. Entrance is free and its across the
water behind the monastery.
Solovki appear to be caught in a sort of love-triangle
between three parties, all with their own interests. Firstly
the Russian Orthodox Church would like to see tourism
to the islands restricted to religious pilgrimages, whereas
the local authorities are not surprisingly interested in all
types of tourists so long as they spend money! Lastly are
the thousand or so permanent inhabitants who would
like to see general improvements, such as paved roads.
Fortunately, regardless of why you came, youll be made
to feel welcome!

When to go
Only the foolhardy would even consider venturing to
Solovki anytime other than in the summer months as
the White sea freezes over and fog can ground flights
for days.

getting there
There are two main ways; either by air, or a combination of land and sea.
Air Solovkis tiny airport has flights to nearby Arkhangelsk (40 minutes; in the summer theyre at least once
a day, sometimes more often although much less
frequent in the winter) from which there are regular
connections on to both Moscow and St. Petersburg as
there are no direct, scheduled flights from either city.
However, not only are tickets relatively pricey - expect
to pay around 7,500Rbl one way, NordAvia fly Ilyushin
78s propeller planes (think crop-sprayers) which are
prone to delays at even a hint of bad weather. Budgeting a day either side in Arkhangelsk is a wise move or
you risk missing your connection.

Where to stay
There are only a handful of hotels on the island and these
can get booked up in advance so dont assume that
you can just rock up and walk in. We stayed at the Hotel
Priyut which costs 2,500Rbl per night for a double, had
reasonable wifi (our mobile phones didnt work there;
no reception) and breakfast was included. Overlooks the
monastery so couldnt really complain! Also check hotels
Solo (www.solo-vky.ru) and Ostrovito Moryushko (www.
ostrovito.com).

What to eat
Some hotels offer dinner but usually only for guests,
although the Hotel Solovki has a separate restaurant
which can be used by non-guests. Theres also a caf/
stolovaya in the main square which offers cheap, but
adequate meals at lunchtime. Bear in mind that there is
only one shop which sells food and drink its next door
to the museum.

Getting around
The town centre and the Kremlin is easily walk able
from the airport and the port although if you have prearranged transport via your hotel or tour operator, you
will be met upon arrival. Travel light, especially if flying;
that plane aint big!

Spending
Although there is a tiny branch of Sberbank, there is no
ATM on the islands and whilst some establishments claim
to accept credit cards, connections are patchy so bring a
large stack of cash with you, preferably much more than
you think youll need. You may end up spending rather
more time there than you anticipated, if the weather isnt
being kind to you.

Land and sea there are frequent trains from Moscow (also from St. Petersburg and Petrozavodsk) to
Murmansk, which stop at Kem, a 12 km ride to Rabocheostrovsk from where boats depart for Solovki daily.
Timing is key here as neither place has much in the
way of accommodation and what little they have is
typically booked up in advance by tour groups. If possible aim to catch a train which arrives at Kem in the
early hours of the morning (around 06:00) and catch
a waiting cab to the port at Rabocheostrovsk (there
are occasional busses too). Boats leave in the morning
and return in the late afternoon, allowing you to take
an evening train north or south.

www.nasolovki.ru
www.solovky.com
44 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

2016 - 2017

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

,


,


Winter 2016 - 2017

45

3 : (VKO),
(DME), (SVO). , , , , ;
,
,
WI-FI.
.
.

Q. (+7) 495 933 66 66, www.domodedovo.ru

Q. (+7) 495 937 55 55, www.vnukovo.ru

Q. +7 (495) 578 65 65, www.svo.aero

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31; 5
2016 . . www.mkmzd.ru
www.mosmetro.ru.


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www.aeroexpress.ru.

46 In Your Pocket

9 . ,
,
.

QA-1, . 7, M, .
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.

QE-1, . 2, M, .
(+7) 499 266 31 81, www.kazanskiy.railclient.ru.

Q-4, . 1, M, .
(+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.

QE-2/3, . 29, M, . (+7) 495
266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru.

QE-1, . 3, M, .
(+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru.

QD-5, . 1, M, . (+7) 495
235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru.

QD-5, . 1, M, . (+7) 495 631 15
88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.

QE-1, . 5, M, .
(+7) 800 775 00 00. www.yaroslavsky.dzvr.ru

.

. 50 ,
.
32 .
,
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.
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.

Gett Taxi, . (+7) 499 999 08 39, gett.com/ru


New Moscow Taxi, . (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.
newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, . (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru


call- (, )
8-800-220-00-01, 8-800-220-00-02, 8-495-663-13-93
( ) 112
moscow.inyourpocket.com


Art Lebedev
QC-2, , . 9, M , .
(+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/offline/
psm/. 12:00 - 21:00.

Q . 57/20, M, .
(+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru. 10:00 20:00, 10:00 - 19:00.

Q-2, . . 16, M, . (+7)
495 692 44 12, www.vmikhailov.ru. 11:00 - 21:00.

QD-3, . 3/7, M-, . (+7) 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. 11:00 - 21:00.

Q. 9A . 2, M, . (+7) 495
223 45 45, www.russiangifts.ru. 09:30 - 18:00,
, .

QD-3, .10, .1, M-, . (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.
11:00 - 20:00, 11:00 - 19:00.
-
QA-2, . 31 (
), M, . (+7) 495
768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. 10:00 - 22:00.

Q . 31, M, . (+7) 495


797 62 00, www.novinsky.ru. 10:00 - 22:00.

QC-3, . 1, . 2, M , (+7)
495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. 10:00 - 22:00.

QC-1, . 15/1, M , .
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. 10:00
- 22:00, 11:00 - 22:00.

QC-2, . , 2, M , . (+7)
800 500 80 00, www.tsum.ru . 10.00 - 22.00, .
11:00 - 22:00.
Lotte Plaza
QA-3, . 8, M, . (+7) 495
641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. 10:00 - 22:00.


Q . 74, M, . (+7) 958 17
25, www.danrinok.ru. 08:00 - 20:00.

Q. 10, M, . (+7) 499
249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. 07:00 - 22:00.

Q . 11, M, . (+7) 495 151 78 71.
07:00 - 20:00, 07:00 - 18:00.

Q 73, M, .
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
09:00 - 18:00.

1
Q-3, ., M , . (+7) 495 620
30 10, www.gum.ru/projects/gastronome.
.

Q-2, . , 14, M, . (+7)


495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. .

QE-3, . 33, M, . (+7) 495


970 15 55, www.atrium.su. 10:00 - 23:00.

QC-3, ., M. , . (+7) 495


788 43 43, www.gum.ru. 10:00 22:00.

QA-4, . , 2, M, (+7)
495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. 10:00
22:00, , 10:00 23:00.

Q 16A, . 4, M,
www.metropolis.moscow. 10:00 23:00.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

2016 - 2017

47



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, ponominalu.
ru ticketland.ru 10%.

1927
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lenkom.ru.



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48 In Your Pocket

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fomenko.theatre.ru.

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16, M, . (+7) 495 150 01 20,
www.mossovet.theatre.ru.


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50 In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com


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www.mayakovsky.ru.

1945 ,



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. (+7) 495 690 40 93, www.mbronnaya.ru.

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915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.

2016 - 2017

51




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QB1, 2, M, .
(+7) 495 699 36 42, www.satire.ru.
52 In Your Pocket

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1, M , . (+7) 495 624 46 47, www.
tabakov.ru.


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50 . -,
.

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Q . 2, M, . (+7) 495
681 21 10, www.teatrarmii.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

08.01 .

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.


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,
,
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12, M, . (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.
arts-museum.ru. 11:00 - 20:00, 11:00 - 21:00.
.

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, - IX - XX ,
.Q, . 1, M, . (+7) 499 725 72 87, 100 - 350., www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru/.

22.01 .


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20 : 1995 2015
.
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1, . (+7) 495 228 98 78, 200 - 430., www.
lumiere.ru/. 12:00 - 21:00, , 12:00 - 22:00.
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- .Q , . , . 9, . 32,
, M, . (+7) 495 645 05
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,
. ,


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.
XII
- XVIII , , ,
, , , ,
.QC4, , .10, M, . (+7) 495 951
13 62, 150 - 400., www.tretyakovgallery.ru.
10:00 18:00, , 10:00 21:00. .

2016 - 2017

53

1-3
19:00

,
9
19:00

3,4
19:00

14,16 19:00
22-24 19:00
27-30 19:00

28-31 19:00


2-4
19:00

6-7
19:00
11-15 19:00
13,14 19:00
15
14:00

18
19:00

19-22 19:00
25-28 19:00

1,2
19:00
2-4
19:00
3-5
19:00

7
20:30

12
19:00
13
19:00
14-17 19:00

24,25 19:00

28
19:00

54 In Your Pocket

7
20:00
5
20:00
8
19:00
8
20:00
11
19:00
12
19:00
26-30 19:00
15
19:00
18

18:30

30
20:30

4
19:00
6

19:00

26
19:00
28
20:00

3
20:00
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18:00

13
18
26

20:00
19:00
19:00

Natalia Oreiro
Alessandro Safina
Brandon Stone
Pet Shop Boys
Emin
David Garret


&
Insight



Jay-Jay Johanson
Blossoms

The Pretty Reckless

Smokie

YS

SL

YS
YS

SL
SL

()
Q . 1, M, . (+7) 499
455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
()
Q. 23, M, . (+7)
495 796 86 80, www.parklegends.ru.

()
Q. 1, M . , .
(+7) 495 628 52 32, www.gkd-kremlin.ru.
()
Q 65-66 , M, . (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Yotaspace (YS)
Q. 11, M ., . (+7)
495 230 10 30, www.yotaspace.ru.
Stadium Live (SL)
Q . 80/17, M, . (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru
()
Q-1, . 14, M. , . (+7) 926
221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru
()
QB-3, . . 19/16, M, .
(+7) 495 250 22 22, www.helikon.ru
moscow.inyourpocket.com



.
, ,

.
. !

:

0 - 800.
1,500 - 2,000.
800 - 1,500.
2,000.



QE-3, 18/15 ( .), M , . (+7) 499 764 99 95,
www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. 11:00 24:00. .

QB-2 , . 26a, M, . (+7)
495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. . .


Aurora
QC2, Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, .
11, M , . (+7) 495 937 10 00,
www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. .
Metropol
QC2, Hotel Metropol, 2,
M, . (+7) 495 480 03 92, www.
metropol-moscow.ru. .
Red & White
QA1, Holiday Inn Lesnaya, . 15,
M, . (+7) 495 783 65 00, moscowhi.ru. .
Samobranka
QB1, Marriott Grand Hotel, . 26,
M, . (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. .


Q . 14, M, . (+7)
495 775 06 56, www.beliy-juravl.ru. 12:00
23:00. .

QD-3, . 2/1 ( .), M , . (+7) 495 621 77 58,
www.darbar.ru. 12:00 24:00. .

QB-1, . 13, M, . (+7)


499 251 08 77, www.restorantan.ru. . .
PhoBo
QC2, . 7/5 . 2, M ,
. (+7) 926 163 39 38, www.vietcafe.com.
11:00 - 24:00, - 11:00 - 05:00. .
VietCafe
QE2, . 21 - 23/25, M ,
. (+7) 495 409 51 91, www.vietcafe.com.
12:00 - 24:00. .

QD-4, . 20/1, M, . (+7) 985 751 19 19, www.ginza.ru/msk/


restaurant/karlson. 12:00 - 24:00. .

QA-3, , .
, , M,
www.radisson-cruise.ru. .

QD-5, . 66, . 2, M, . (+7) 495


953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. 11:00 24:00. .
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Palazzo Ducale
QB-2, . 3, M, . (+7) 495 978
71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. 08:00 - 13:00, ,
09:00 - 12:00.

QD-2, . , 5, . 5, M-, . (+7)


495 790 11 55, www.saperavicafe.com. 12:00
24:00, , 12:00 03:00. .

QC-1, . . 6, . 1, M ,
. (+7) 495 699 45 03, www.sahli.ru. 12:00
23:00. .

QB-2, . . 10, M,
. (+7) 985 764 31 18, www.hacha.ru. 10:00
01:00, , 11:00 01:00. .

QE-2, . 12/2, M , .
(+7) 495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. 10:00
23:00, 12:00 23:00. .
Fresh
QC-2, . . 11, M, . (+7)
965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. 11:00
23:00. .

2016 - 2017

55

Strelka
QC-4, . 14/5A, M, . (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.strelkainstitute.
com. 09:00 24:00, 09:00 03:00,
12:00 03:00, 12:00 24:00.
44
QC-4, . . 24/8, M, .
(+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. 12:00
24:00.
Cross Keys Pub
QB2, . . 3, M, .
(+7) 495 636 29 55. .
Dream Bar
QD-2, . 17, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru.
.
Mybar
QC-2, . 3, . 2, M,
. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. 18:00
06:00.
Noor Bar
QB-2, . 23/12, M, . (+7)
903 136 76 86. . 15:00 03:00,
15:00 06:00.
Time Out Bar
QB-1, . . 5/1 ( , 13
), M, . (+7) 495 229 01 80. 17:00 24:00, 17:00 02:00, , 17:00
06:00.


QC-4, . 8, M, . (+7)
499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. 21:00
10:00.

QD-2, . . 7, . (+7) 495 624


57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. 11:30
06:00, , 12:00 - 6:00.
Gogol Club
Q-2, . 11, . 1, M, . (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. 12:00 24:00, , 12:00 05:00.
2
QB-2, . . 8/1, M, .
(+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. 12:00
06:00.
Defaqto
QD-2, . . 30/2, . 1, M, . (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru.
12:00 06:00, .
56 In Your Pocket


-
QD-2, . . 24, M, . (+7)
495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. 08:00 24:00,
, . .
Brix
QB-2, . . 10, . 1, M, .
(+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. 12:00 24:00. .
Delicatessen
QC-1, - . 20, . 2, M
, . (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. 12:00 24:00, 12:00 22:00. . .
Extra Virgin
QE-2, . 17, M , . (+7) 967
102 71 97, www.evgrill.ru. 12:00 24:00, ,
12:00 02:00. .
Filial
QD-2, . 3, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 621 21 43, www.filialmoscow.ru. 12:00 24:00, , 12:00 06:00. .
Fleur
Q. 74, M, . (+7) 495 225
82 82, www.moscow-hi.ru/suschevsky/en/restoran-ibar/. 24. .
Food Embassy
QD-1, . 26, . 8, M , .
(+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru.
10:00 24:00, , , 12:00 24:00. .
Gratzi
QB1, Marriott Moscow Tverskaya, 1- . 34, M, . (+7) 495 258 30
00, www.marriott.com. 06:30 24:00.
Grand Alexander
Q1, Marriott Moscow Grand .
26/1, M, . (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. 12:30 - 23:00. .
Polo Club
Q2, Marriott Royal Aurora, .
11, M, . (+7) 495 937 10 24, www.
marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. 18:00 23:00. .
Premier
QA1, Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre,
. 31a, . 1, M, . (+7)
495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.ru.
18:30 - 23:00. .
Savva
QC-2, ,
2, M, . (+7) 499 270 10 62, www.
metropolmoscow.ru. 12:00 - 24:00. .
Townhouse
QD-5, . 11, . 1, ( Mercure),
M, . (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.merkure.
com. 06:30 23:00. .
White Rabbit
QA-3, . 3, 16 , M, .
+7 (495) 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. 12:00 06:00. .
moscow.inyourpocket.com

,
,
,
, .
- .
,
,
, , .Q3, M , . (+7) 495 695 41 46,
www.kreml.ru. 10:00 - 17:00. .


, 1505 . I V.

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.

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,
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, . : 10:00, 12:00,
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19 , , , ,
. .
,
.
. .

2016 - 2017

57

c


City
Expert.


.
City Expert
.
.

- Moscow In Your Pocket.QB1, ., M, . (+7) 495 227 79 96,
city-sightseeing.ru/info. 10:00 - 19:00. A




!
-
-, 1,5-2,5
, , I,
,
.

.QA-3, . ,
, M, . (+7)
495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru.

13:00. .


,
. ,
, , . , .
.



,
.
.
.

1924
. .
. QC3, ., M , . (+7) 495 623 55
27, www.lenin.ru. 10:00 - 13:00. , ,
. .


.
.
1561 , .
. , ,
, .
QC-3, ., M , . (+7) 495 698 33
04, www.saintbasil.ru. 11:00 - 17:00. 11:00 18:00. . 100 350.

. 4,5
2 ,
XX . 1881 II
- . - , , .
QC-3, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 692
37 31, www.shm.ru. 10:00 - 18:00. , 10:00 21:00. . 100 350.

58 In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com


QC-1, . 3, M , .
(+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. 10:00
18:00, 10:00 21:00, 11:00 19:00.
. 20 250.

Q. 57, M, . (+7) 499
783 22 53, www.darwinmuseum.ru. 10:00
18:00, 13:00 21:00.
. 100 300.
..
Q4, . 12/2, M,
tel. (+7) 495 637 56 74, www.pushkinmuseum.ru.
10:00 - 18:00, 12:00 - 21:00.
. 200.
- ..
QB-2, - . 6, M, .
(+7) 495 691 61 54, 11:00 18:00, 14:00 20:00.
. 100
250. .

Q 7, . 31, M,
. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru. 11:00
20:00, 12:00 21:00. . 50 150.

QB1, 2- - . 20-22 .2,
M, tel. (+7) 495 730 55 26, www.museumaz.ru. 12:00 - 20:00. . 200 - 400.
..
Q .24, .2, M,
. (+7) 495 954 97 64, www.esenin-museum.ru. 10:00 - 18:00, 13:00 - 21:00. ,
. 150 - 200.

QB-2, . 21, M, . (+7) 495 699
54 58. www.sovrhistory.ru. 11:00 - 19:00,
12:00 - 21:00. . 100 - 250.

QC-4, , 10, M, . (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.
ru. , , , 10:00 18:00, , 10:00
21:00. . 150 450.

QB-5, 10, M , . (+7)
499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. 10:00
19:30. . 150 450.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

..
,
,


..



XVIII XIX .

,

:
,

,

.
..
,
100

,
,
.



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.

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, 7, +7 (495) 690-58-81
www.domgogolya.ru


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.
,
, , 10
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, -.
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4 .
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.QB3, . 7, M, . (+7) 495 690 58
81, www.domgogolya.ru. : , , . 12:00
- 19:00, 14:00 - 21:00, , 12:00 - 18:00. . 60 - 150.

2016 - 2017

59

c

-
Q , 5-
. (+7) 495 797 54 58, www.arhangelskoe.su.
10:30 17:00, , 10:30 18:00.
, . . 150 - 200.
10:00 21:00.
150 - 50.
500.
: M
151 . ; . 541,549 . .

ARTPLAY
Q. 10, M,
. (+7) 495 620 08 82, www.artplay.ru.

Q4- . 1, . 6, M,
. (+7) 495 917 17 99. 12:00 20:00.
. www.winzavod.ru

Q. , . 9, . 32, ,
M, . (+7) 495 645 05 20.

Q , M, .
(+7) 499 788 60 00, www.redok.ru

Q , . 7, M, . (+7)
495 691 72 05, www.domgogolya.ru/new_wing. 12:00 20:00. 50 - 150.

Q 14, . 5, M, . (+7) 495 268 06 19, www.strelka.


com

Q. 119, M, . (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.


vdnh.ru. 09:00 23:00. .

Q . 13, M , . (+7)
499 739 27 07, www.vorobyovy-gory.ru.

QB-5, . 9, M, . (+7)
495 995 00 20, www.park-gorkogo.com. 24.
.

Q . 1, M, . (+7) 499 725 72


87, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. 24.
11:00 - 17:30, 11:00 - 19:30, 11:00 - 18:30.
. , 80
650.
60 In Your Pocket


-
(
)
Q , 6, . (+7) 495 377 94 57, www.
park-kuzminki.ru. 10:00 18:00, 13:00
21:00. . 150. 250.

Q. , 13-15. 100.
150. 100.
: M : 29,
29-, 429; M:
38, 38; M,
M, M .

Q. 2, . (+7) 495 375 31 31, kuskovo.ru.
: 10:00 18:00. ,
. . 10:00
20:00. . 150.,
100., 100,
50. 1,5 3
.
.
: M : .
133, 133 208, ;
M: . 620, . 9,
; M: . 64, .
615, 247, .

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Street register
1905 Goda ul.
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Alexandra Nevskogo ul.
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A-1/2
D-1/2
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E-4
C-4
B-3
D-2
D-5
D-3/4
E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4

Golutvinsky per. (1y)


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Gorokhovsky per.
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Grokholsky per.
Gusyatnikov per.
Ilinka ul.
Ipatyevsky per.
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Kalanchevskaya ul.
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Kazakova ul.
Kazansky per.
Kazarmeny per.
Khilkov per.
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Khokhlovsky per.
Khvostov per. (1y)
Kievskaya ul.
Klimentovsky per.
Kolpachny per.
Kompozitorskaya ul.
Komsomolskaya pl.
Komsomolsky pr.
Konyushkovskaya ul.
Koptelsky per. (1y)
Korobeynikov per.
Korovy Val ul.
Kosmodamianskaya nab.
Kostyansky per.
Kotelnicheskaya nab.
Kotelnichesky per. (1y)
Kozitsky per.
Krasina ul.
Krasnaya pl. (Red Square)
Krasnaya presnya ul.
Krasnopresnenskaya nab.
Krasnoproletarskaya ul.
Krasnoprudnaya ul.
Kremlevskaya nab.
Krivokolenny per.
Kropotkinsky per.
Krutitsky per. (3y)
Krutitskaya nab.
Krymskay nab.
Krymsky proezd
Krymsky Val.
Kursovoy per.
Kutuzovsky pr.
Kuznetsky most ul.
Lavrsky per.
Lavrushinsky per.
Leninsky pr.
Leontievsky per.
Lesnaya ul.
Lubyansky proezd
Lyalin per.
Mal. Bronnaya ul.
Mal. Dmitrovka ul.
Mal. Gruzinskaya ul.
Mal. Karetny per.
Mal. Kozikhinsky per.
Mal. Nikitskaya ul.
Mal. Ordynka ul.
Mal. Polyanka ul.
Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.
Mal. Yakimanka ul.
Mal. Znamensky per.
Manezhnaya pl.
Manezhnaya ul.
Marksistskaya ul.

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C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
D-2
C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4

Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
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Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
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Pushkinskaya pl.
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Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
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Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
E-2/3/4

C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2

Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya

Winter 2016 - 2017

61

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City Sightseeing Bus Tour

.
UL

AB.
KAYA N
SOFIYS30

Maps

bus tour

13

MOS
KVOR
ETSK
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BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST

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PODKOLOKOL
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PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII

Winter 2016 - 2017

13

65

UL

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

ZORGE

SLAVYANSKY BULVAR

STUDENCHESKAYA

MINSKAYA

TVERSKAYA

OKTYABRSKAYA
FRUNZENSKAYA

PARK
KULTURY

POLYANKA

TRETYAKOVSKAYA

BIBLIOTEKA IM.LENINA

KROPOTKINSKAYA

BOROVITSKAYA

TEATRALNAYA
PL.REVOLYUTSII

OKHOTNY
RYAD

TAGANSKAYA

KITAYGOROD

CHKALOVSKAYA

NOVOKUZNETSKAYA

LUBYANKA

KUZNETSKY MOST

CHISTYE PRUDY

SEMYONOVSKAYA

BAUMANSKAYA

KRESTYANSKAYA
ZASTAVA

MARKSISTSKAYA

NOVOKOSINO

PROLETARSKAYA

NOVOHOHLOVSKAYA

NIZHEGORODSKAYA

ANDRONOVKA

AVIAMOTORNAYA

SHOSSE ENTUZIASTOV

NOVOGIREEVO
SOKOLINAYA
GORA
PEROVO

PL.ILYICHA

KURSKAYA
KURSKY
RAIL TERMINAL

RIMSKAYA

PARTIZANSKAYA

IZMAYLOVSKAYA

PERVOMAYSKAYA

SCHYOLKOVSKAYA

ELEKTROZAVODSKAYA

KRASNOSELSKAYA

IZMAYLOVO

SOKOLNIKI

PREOBRAZHENSKAYA PL.

CHERKIZOVSKAYA

LOKOMOTIV

BUL.ROKOSSOVSKOGO

KOMSOMOLSKAYA
TRUBNAYA
LENINGRADSKY
YAROSLAVSKY
SRETENSKY BUL.
KAZANSKY
KRASNYE RAIL TERMINALS
VOROTA
TURGENEVSKAYA

CHEKHOVSKAYA

ARBATSKAYA

ALEKSANDROVSKY
SAD

SMOLENSKAYA

SMOLENSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA

KIEVSKY
RAIL TERMINAL

DELOVOY TSENTR

KIEVSKAYA

TSVETNOY BUL.
MAYAKOVSKAYA

RIZHSKAYA
RIZHSKY
RAIL TERMINAL

SUKHAREVSKAYA

DOSTOEVSKAYA

MARYINA ROSHCHA

ALEKSEEVSKAYA

VDNH

BELOKAMENNAYA

PR.MIRA

UL. AKADEMIKA
KOROLEVA

VYSTAVOCHNY
TSENTR

BUTYRSKAYA

NOVOSLOBODSKAYA

MENDELEEVSKAYA

SAVYOLOVSKAYA

DMITROVSKAYA

BARRIKADNAYA PUSHKINSKAYA

KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA

ULITSA
1905 GODA

VYSTAVOCHNAYA

SHELEPIKHA

PARK POBEDY

DELOVOY TSENTR
(MCC)
KUTUZOVSKAYA

FILI
MEZHDUNARODNAYA

BEGOVAYA

KHOROSHOVSKAYA

BAGRATIONOVSKAYA

FILYOVSKY PARK

PIONERSKAYA

DINAMO

BELORUSSKAYA
POLEZHAEVSKAYA
BELORUSSKY
RAIL TERMINAL

CSKA

PETROVSKY PARK

AEROPORT

SOKOL

TIMIRYAZEVSKAYA

TELETSENTR

FONVIZINSKAYA

PETROVSKORAZUMOVSKAYA

BOTANICHESKY SAD
ROSTOKINO

SVIBLOVO

OTRADNOE

UL.SERGEYA
EIZENSHTEINA

BABUSHKINSKAYA

BIBIREVO

VLADYKINO

MEDVEDKOVO

ALTUFIEVO

UL. MILASHENKOVA

OKRUZHNAYA

KOPTEVO
VOYKOVSKAYA

LIKHOBORY

VODNY STADION

RECHNOY VOKZAL

PANFILOVSKAYA

OKTYABRSKOE
POLE

STRESHNEVO

SCHUKINSKAYA
BALTIYSKAYA

SPARTAK

TUSHINSKAYA

KHOROSHOVO

KUNTSEVSKAYA

MOLODYOJNAYA

KRYLATSKOE

STROGINO

MYAKININO

VOLOKOLAMSKAYA

MITINO

PYATNITSKOE SHOSSE

SKHODNENSKAYA

PLANERNAYA

SHEREMETYEVO
AIRPORT

Maps

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Winter 2016 - 2017

67

PLOSCHAD
GAGARINA

VNUKOVO AIRPORT

SALARIEVO

UL.STAROKACHALOVSKAYA

LESOPARKOVAYA

NOVOYASENEVSKAYA

YASENEVO

TYOPLY STAN

BELYAEVO
KAKHOVSKAYA
KONKOVO

KALUZHSKAYA

NOVYE CHEREMUSHKI

PROFSOYUZNAYA

AKADEMICHESKAYA

KRYMSKAYA

LENINSKY PR.

SHABOLOVSKAYA

BITSEVSKY PARK

RUMYANTSEVO

TROPARYOVO

YUGOZAPADNAYA

PR.VERNADSKOGO

UNIVERSITET

VOROBYOVY GORY

SPORTIVNAYA

LUZHNIKI

DOBRYNINSKAYA

BUNINSKAYA
BUL. ADMIRALA
ALLEYA
UL.GORCHAKOVA USHAKOVA
UL.SKOBELEVSKAYA

Frunzenskaya metro
station is closed.

RAMENKI

LOMONOSOVSKY PR.

ZIL

BUL.DMITRIYA
DONSKOGO

ANNINO

UL.AKADEMIKA
YANGELYA

PRAZHSKAYA

YUZHNAYA

CHERTANOVSKAYA

SEVASTOPOLSKAYA

VARSHAVSKAYA

NAKHIMOVSKY PR.

NAGORNAYA

NAGATINSKAYA

VERKHNIE KOTLY

TULSKAYA

SERPUKHOVSKAYA

ZYABLIKOVO

SHIPILOVSKAYA

BORISOVO

MARYINO

DOMODEDOVO
AIRPORT

KOTELNIKI

ZHUKOVSKY
AIRPORT

ZHULEBINO

LERMONTOVSKY PR.

VYKHINO

RYAZANSKY PR.

KUZMINKI

TEKSTILSHCHIKI

VOLGOGRADSKY PR.

ALMAATINSKAYA

BRATISLAVSKAYA

LUYBLINO

VOLZHSKAYA

PECHATNIKI

KOZHUHOVSKAYA

UGRESHSKAYA

KRASNOGVARDEYSKAYA

DOMODEDOVSKAYA

OREKHOVO

TSARITSYNO

KANTEMIROVSKAYA

KASHIRSKAYA

KOLOMENSKAYA

TEKHNOPARK

AVTOZAVODSKAYA

DUBROVKA

PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKY
RAIL TERMINAL

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