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Oxynex ST Liquid

Unique stabilizer for light-sensitive ingredients

Introduction
Cosmetic formulators often face a serious challenge
when they need to develop a stable cosmetic
formulation, especially when using light-sensitive
organic ingredients such as:

Dyestuffs
Fragrances
Active ingredients
(e.g. vitamins)
UV filters
The light-induced deterioration of ingredients in the
cosmetic product has an impact on the physicochemical
parameters in numerous personal care products.
Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM), the
active substance in Oxynex ST Liquid, is a unique
molecule which protects light-sensitive ingredients by
its specific structure against degradation, and which
simultaneously ensures light stability.

Oxynex ST Liquid
Improves the
stability & efficiency
of your products

Functionality of
Oxynex ST Liquid
Light is a form of energy. Molecules, which are able to absorb UV and
visible light, can be excited to a higher energy level upon absorption of
radiation. Organic colorants, dyes, antioxidants, sunscreens, fragrances
& flavor ingredients are examples of this behavior. In the excited state,
these molecules are more reactive than in the ground state and may
form radicals and degradation products. This leads to a loss in product
integrity, color fading, malodor, changes in viscosity etc.
Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM) is the active ingredient in
Oxynex ST Liquid. It was initially designed as a light stabilizer. DESM
has a sterically stabilized phenolic function that renders it a very potent
antioxidant as well as a benzylidene malonate function. Both functions
support the stabilization of light-sensitive molecules. At room temperature, the compound is a viscous yellowish liquid and is readily miscible
with a variety of cosmetic emollients.

Benzylidene Malonate functionality


Photostabilizer
Triplet energy quencher

Carbon chain residues


Hydrophobicity
Processible liquid
Miscible with oil

Phenolic functionality
Antioxidant functionality

Efficacy
DESM, the active ingredient in Oxynex ST Liquid,
provides highly effective stabilization of colorants,
fragrances, antioxidants and UV filters.
At fairly low concentrations, Oxynex ST Liquid now
offers unlimited color variations in the bath & shower
segment. It is about to become an indispensable
ingredient in all flavored cosmetic applications as well
as providing considerable enhancement in the light
stability of antioxidant compounds. The formulators
objective of photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen
formulations is now eminently achievable.

up to
10-fold
higher light
stability

Selection of tested light-sensitive


substances at 0.1 % concentration

[%] DESM
Dyes

FD&C Blue No. 1

(CI 42090)

D&C Orange No. 4

(CI 15510)

D&C Red No. 33

(CI 17200)

FD&C Yellow No. 5

(CI 19140)

FD&C Red No. 40

(CI 16035)

FD&C Red No. 4

(CI 14700)

0.1 %

Guaiazulene

0.02 %

Fragrance compounds

Vanillin

0.5 %

Vitamins

Natural tocopherols

0.2 %

UV filters

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane : DESM

Ratio 1 : 0.8

Typical effect

Original
Original

+ 0.05 % DESM

Original
Original

Unexposed

+ 0.05 % DESM

Exposed

Effect of Oxynex ST Liquid on the color stability of dyes.


A market shampoo sample, colored with a mixture of
CI 17200 and CI 47005, can be stabilized with DESM or Oxynex ST Liquid

The antioxidant principle of DESM


In numerous tests, the excellent antioxidant potential of DESM
could be demonstrated (e.g. TEAC assay, 1O2-quenching, lipidperoxidation of linoleic acid). In combination with the energyquenching effect, Oxynex ST Liquid contributes to a reduced
risk of UV-induced free radical damage to human skin.

Technical data
INCI
Appearance
Active substance
Solubility
Storage

Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate,


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Yellowish liquid to low-melting solid
Approximately 90 % Diethylhexyl Syringylidene
Malonate
Miscible with cosmetic oils
At +15 C up to +25 C, protected from light.

Use level
General applications:
Color stabilization:

recommended use level is approximately 0.5 %


recommended use level is approximately 0.1 %

Formulation guidelines
Oxynex ST Liquid is compatible with cosmetic raw materials and can be directly added
to the oil phase of an emulsion.
In aqueous applications the addition of a suitable solubilizer at typical concentrations of
0.1 to 0.5 % may be necessary.
In formulations, pH values below 6.8 are mandatory in order to avoid a color shift.
Adjustment of the pH has to be performed before addition of Oxynex ST Liquid.
In order to prevent any complexation of metal ions, the use of chelating agents may be
considered.

Suggested applications

Bath and shower applications


Fragrance
Skin care
Sun care
Hair care
Decorative cosmetics

Ordering information
Article No.
130217

Name
| Qxynex ST Liquid

Pack Sizes
| 1 kg, 25 kg

For more detailed information please visit our Web site:

www.cosmetic.merck.de

We provide information and advice to our customers on application technologies and regulatory matters to the
best of our knowledge and ability, but without obligation or liability. Existing laws and regulations are to be
observed in all cases by our customers. This also applies in respect to any rights of third parties. Our information
and advice do not relieve our customers of their own responsibility for checking the suitability of our products
for the envisaged purpose.

The United States


EMD Chemicals Inc.
Rona - Cosmetic Business Unit
7 Skyline Drive
Hawthorne, New York 10532
USA
Phone: +1-914-592-46 60
Fax:
+1-914-785-58 04
E-mail: rona@emdchemicals.com
www.emdchemicals.com

Europe
Merck KGaA
Dept. Pigments/Cosmetic
64271 Darmstadt
Germany
Phone: +49-61 51-72 20 98
Fax:
+49-61 51-72 31 10
E-mail: cosmetic@merck.de
www.cosmetic.merck.de

Asia
Cosmetic Customer Service Center
Merck Ltd.
6F-5, No 188, Sec. 5
Nanking East Road
Taipei
Taiwan
Phone: +88 62-2-7422788 ext. 640
Fax:
+88 62-2-7423214
E-mail: Corry.Chen@merck.com.tw
www.merck.com.tw

Japan
Merck Ltd.
ARCO Tower, 5 F
8-1, Shimomeguro 1-chome
Meguro-ku
Tokyo 153-8927
Japan
Phone: +81-3-54 34-47 11
Fax:
+81-3-54 34-47 04
E-mail: merckcos@merck.co.jp
www.merck.co.jp

USw304123
February 2006

For more information please contact: