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© Lonely Planet Publications

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Queensland
It’s sunny, warm and the only state where more people want to come than want to leave!
It’s the ‘Sunshine State’ – Australia’s great escape and a powerful magnet for southerners
creeping northward for less complicated lifestyles and sun-drenched holidays.

QUEENSLAND
Five regions in Queensland are World Heritage–listed and three of them can be explored
through walks that are featured in this chapter. Australia’s Great Dividing Range begins amid
the Wet Tropics region in the far north and here lies Queensland’s highest peak – Mt Bartle
Frere – where walkers can still experience Jurassic plants from Gondwana days. Also in the
Wet Tropics, there’s a sense of romance as you roam Hinchinbrook Island’s beaches and
camp under starry skies. Freshwater lakes and pristine beaches lure walkers to the world’s
largest sandbar, Fraser Island, with its unique ecosystem and genetically pure dingo popu-
lation. Queensland’s southern doorway leads to the Central Eastern Rainforests Reserves
region and Lamington National Park’s subtropical rainforests, with Australia’s most extensive
walking track network (160km).

In the past, Queensland may not have ranked as highly as some southern states as a bush-
walking destination, but the secret’s out. Come and share the outdoors with the locals.

HIGHLIGHTS
Cracking a coconut under starry skies at Hinchinbrook Island (p349)
Splashing cool mountain water on your face in Lamington National Park (p335)
Ripping off your boots, running through the sand and plunging into Lake McKenzie on Fraser
Island (p342)
Congratulating yourself after hauling up to Queensland’s rooftop, Mt Bartle Frere (p353)

TELEPHONE CODE: 07 www.epa.qld.gov.au www.queenslandholidays.com.au

au) A Tourism Queensland innovation that SOUTH Cunnamulla Ipswich BRISBANE er INFORMATION walks you through the state from the coast to the Outback. Wild Plants and Wildlife. Carpentaria Lakefield Nor QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND ma ABORIGINAL to mountainous rainforests and eucalypt ple and peculiarities. Lungfish are unique to Walking Tracks.000 and 1:50. is a compre. five times Maps www. Simpson Desert National Park Windorah Carnarvon Theodore Monto i n g Bundaberg er National Isla Gorge Seventy-five percent of its rainforests were Queensland Federation of Bushwalking Clubs Birdsville Riv eek Park NP Fraser Island Cr Mundubbera Hervey Bay felled and some mangrove nurseries remain (www.gov. yearly membership which is also the cyclone season for the . wet summers characterise the tropi. Sunmap has a 1:2.com/qfbwc) Maintains a list of state-wide Taroom 2 Charleville Maryborough threatened by urban development.com Queensland Q U E E N S L A N D • • I n f o r m a t i o n 329 0 0 300 km 180 miles ὄὄὄὄ ὄ Cape York bigger than Japan and twice as big as Texas.5 million hectares of National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ. 66 Rockhampton Yeppoon n mso Bedourie r 71 ve Emerald brigalow (eucalypt) scrub was cleared from (%3367 0878.queens 54 Ba 49 St George Toowoomba landwalks. there are now 223 national Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS. Take A Walk ABORIGINAL LAND Mareeba Cairns PACIFIC lsh LAND Karumba Queensland’s home to Australia’s most in Queensland’s National Parks – Southern Burketown TERRITORY Normanton Ri Atherton Gi ve 4 Innisfail OCEAN endangered mammal.000 Queensland State Map ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ www. often staffed by knowledgeable Belya ve e Reef Ri a t a 1 Queensland has been subjected to sus. sections for each walk. a primitive bird restricted to dense Information Sources Kynuna er ina ὄ ὄὄ Eungella Mackay Riv National Park Sarina northern rainforests and now endangered Most cities and towns have visitor informa- Gr ndo River Winton r even there. though don’t expect Boulia tin Clermont an m Tropic of Capricorn Longreach tained and government-supported environ.torre its coastal islands. www ing remote areas to complete bushwalking 140 Wickham St. while others Individual maps are listed in the Planning lock SEA River Weipa experience up to 4000mm.npaq. Some parks re.com. but try visit.gov. charms. One of land has over 50 walks and scenic drives.qld.000 Jardine River 1 Lamington National Park pp336–7 2 Great Walk Fraser Island p345 cal north. taller trees publishes an excellent series of environ- itc Cooktown he Laura ὄὄὄὄ ὄ ll Rv are replaced by stunted mulga and acacia mental and natural history books including Mornington Island River Cape Tribulation Daintree Daintree scrub. Total Fire Ban days (p46/47). Zone. Queensland has more bird species tis’ The Travellers’ Guide to North Queens. who can walk. flightless cas.lonelyplanet. too much info about specific walks. Lake Eyre ne Nambour Dalby lon North Innamincka 1 g e for adventure seekers. climb.lonelyplanet. travel planning. these are line or from QPWS offices. regional maps and a series of National Park 3 Thorsborne Trail p350 snow has been known to fall. Mt Isa Cloncurry Julia Creek Charters Towers Bowen Whitsunday Islands than any other state or territory. but along the southern highlands state map. ia Barcaldine 55 D er Riv mental vandalism – 4. K2 Extreme (%3257 3310. even fuel stoves. www. peo. Rain is common Permits are necessary for camping in na. mountaincraft. the northern hairy. eventually petering out to the Out. Taringa) Offers . Once found as far south as hensive guide for that region. Lonely Planet’s Queensland gives a great LAND eat of v Holroyd R Sun-baked islands and beaches give way overview of the state’s jewels. registration forms.k2extreme. www. QPWS encourages walkers visit.au) Manages national parks. 328 Q U E E N S L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t ENVIRONMENT Queensland’s a land of contrasts. kayak or cycle in Queensland’s heady perfume of a wet forest enhances mentioned in the specific walks.500. your experience. Queensland Museum National Park nb LAND y M glades. 205 Moggill Rd. ser Island (p342) and the Thorsborne Trail forbidden. tion centres. northern two-thirds of the state). Winter’s the time to walk Green Mountains (p335). and its associated regional maps are great for Bamaga Queensland – Maps Hot.000 topographic maps.com. Townsville to v Forsayth 1 Island Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Flin ry R 3 Grego ὄὄὄὄ Victoria. a series of five booklets by er hhar B 62 Island ar Camooweal Queensland – they can live in water or on Kym Dungey and Jane Whytlaw.com Hema’s 1:2. $70) Caters for beginner and experienced adventurers. by John and Lyn Daly. Permits for Most areas are ‘fuel stove’ only. Some places 1:25.500. AUSTRALIA Tibooburra oa Riv 55 Goondiwindi Warwick Mt Barney NP Surfers Paradise Coolangatta When to Walk Whether you’re after a short walk or a multiday hike.geocities. ing its rainforests during summer: tempera- tures are guaranteed to be degrees cooler Permits & Regulations (p349) may need to be secured months in Guided Walks than lower coastal areas. sites for 2 $8). www. all ABORIGINAL Staaten River National Park National Park Port Douglas Wa back’s spinifex grasses. (most falls between January and March. all fires are Torre Mountaincraft (%3870 2699. Contact QPWS (%13 13 04. but the quire contact with local rangers.epa. Great Walk Fra. affiliated bushwalking clubs. it now lives only in a small national Cooktown is admirably covered by Tropical Leic Ingham Lucinda Riv ders Rive Magnetic r park in the tropics. www. sive bushwalking and camping programs. CORAL 4 Mt Bartle Frere p354 Wen get only 150mm of rain a year.au. %3227 Cooloola NP R a n o Cooper Bull River Kingaroy Noosa Heads parks protecting its natural areas – havens 8185. Descending westward.au. which are available on. tional parks. Wild Places. McKinlay 68 Hughenden Collinsville sowary.org.au) Leading community D i Ri Tho Springsure Blackdown ὄὄ 17 oo Tableland Gladstone north Queensland to the New South Wales voice for conservation since 1930. During southeast.qld. Fortitude Valley. advance. the Cu lg Stanthorpe 39 1 Tweed Heads NEW SOUTH WALES Queensland has an undeserved reputation new website has it covered and also provides useful links Moree Sundown NP 1 Lamington Bourke NP as being ‘too hot for walking’. Queensland Travel Centre (%13 88 33. ABORIGINAL ὄὄὄὄ Archer Bend LAND The Great Dividing Range is Queensland’s National Park Rokeby National Park backbone and separates the well-watered Books Gr ABORIGINAL Coen Gulf coast from the inland’s rolling plains. 78 NORTHERN Proserpine Airlie Beach Georg the most striking is the large. Lawn Hill rt lbe Mt Surprise r Tully Hinchinbrook Norman National Park Croydon nosed wombat. and helpful volunteers. www. to other sites. Quilpie 54 Mitchell Roma Gympie Great Sandy NP Miles Fortunately.com. it organises comprehen- v i d rc Blackall NP Biloela Ba (NSW) border in one nine-year period. with stunning colour photos.au/camping. Paul Cur- dt ri Ri Townsville Ayr er ve Home Hill Rv r land.

less-commercialised beauty spots. big enough for two.ilmondo. kayaking. QPWS (%3227 8185. daily) and Bris. There’s a Foodworks Supermarket (Brunswick St. h8. adult/child/fam. 17 hours.premierms Gateway Discovery Centre (%4051 3588.com. 5b Sheridan Fortitude Valley) in Valley Metro Plaza.au) generally tout cheaper fares for on. cnr George & Turbot Sts.au) Operates services from Brisbane mate’ tourist experiences. Air 30 minutes. Savini Restaurant. ais). ner) overlooks Brisbane River to the city.au. roads. Supermarkets in Brisbane’s CBD in. 9am-7pm Fri. www. Greek and Italian fare modation in the CBD (adult/child $9/11. level 1. 25. Mountain Designs (%3216 1866) as) is close to the city and convenient Sun-Thu. ternational and domestic flights servicing ABC Integra Network (%1800 067 414.ourbrisbane. focus. 728 Ann St) is just up stairs.15am to 11pm). naturalist-guided walk is the 19km Goldfield Trail. Fig Tree Pocket. 29 hours.au. go food.30am-midnight diving and everything in between.30am-4. .30pm Explorers Inn (%1800 6288. s/d/tw $90/100/110. Citytrain (%13 16 17.abc www. dm The national highway bypasses the city cen.transinfo.grey and booking centres all peddle the ‘ulti- the road.com. State and interstate trains arrive and depart GATEWAYS Ashgrove.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Customer service centre sells get you a main meal. Kangaroo Point.koala. . 24 hours. bane’s cheapest three-star accommodation blue. has taken hostels to another level.au) is World Heritage-listed Wet Tropics rainfor- centre. accommodation Kathmandu (%3252 8054. Check the net (www. not no clothes) opposite the brisbane. . Brisbane. per day.traveltrain. Brisbane Transit Centre (%3236 2528. Queen Street Mall. and can organise permits.com. h9am-5. daily). as a one-day tour. lunch $13.com.981 World Wide Maps and Guides (%3221 4330. 51 Esplanade. 3rd fl.com) for a zeri (%3846 5800. while Virgin Blue (%13 67 89. Its .au. bristrav@tpg. but Brisbane’s great climate makes to Cairns ($200.com. h6am- . www. Andrejic urban camping stores stock cheaper gear or eating outdoors especially enjoyable.au. Roma St Transit Centre.gov. ai) is Bris. native berries.30am to 11pm) as well as the especially Wooroonooran National Park.au.newmarketgardens.qld.qantas.30pm ing on backpacker budgets. lunch Sun). it will beat the majors by up to 40%. 9. Torre Mountaincraft (p329) sells City food courts serve the usual ready-to.com.com.au. 91 Queen St) and (%3846 3402. ai) Unashamedly the tourist capital of Queens- . a trail connecting over 20km of paths. s/d $55-75/60-80. dukkah and Australian cheeses is a hit and Queensland Rail (%13 22 32. is served with lashings of live Greek music half hourly.com Q U E E N S L A N D • • C a i r n s 331 abseiling and climbing on world-acclaimed Kangaroo SLEEPING & EATING Among West End’s eclectic café set.abel. s/d $45/70.virgin Abel (%1800 131 429.tropicalaustralia.com. Australia’s largest packers. Bris- RiverWalk.com Point cliffs. Car Rental Brisbane visitor information centre (%3229 5918. winner of Queens. h8. list of Brisbane’s accommodation houses or 16. www. Roma St. dm $17-26.explorers. 7pm daily) links Brisbane’s airport with the city ily $19/14/49. hlunch & dinner daily) comes recommended port to Brisbane Transit Centre and accom- wooroonooran-safaris. i) is the clos. integra.au. The Esplanade’s eateries.com. www. 380 Upper Roma St. www 6pm and daily upbeat entertainment.30pm) Woolworths (MacArthur Bldg. www. 9am-5pm Sat. INFORMATION on Wickham St in Fortitude Valley.com. Brisbanites gather here to cel. www. 8. www. ebrate special occasions.au.30pm Mon-Fri. f $165-350.lonelyplanet.airtrain.jetstar bane Transit Centre) rents over the net from $45 bridges and parks along Brisbane River. Greyhound Australia (% 13 14 99. 29 hours. hbreakfast. Qantas (%13 13 13.au.com.epa. r $100-135. 6.qld. hourly. plus canoeing and mountain biking. 398 St Pauls Tce. and hires out equipment. folk get adrenalin rushes from bushwalk- You can buy quality adventure/outdoor Il Mondo (%3392 0111. Shop 30. cnr Boundary & Russell Sts.30am-5pm Mon-Fri. (M6) Motorways to head west.au. of cafés cater for all cuisines. lodge West End. outdoorsy SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT walking distance. tre via Gateway Motorway (M1). www.bunk GETTING THERE & AWAY day and Friday).com.brisbanetransitcentre.qld.au. www. mains $21-31. ter. and several sub.com. two daily). including K2 35 Rotherham St. ais) is 400m from the transit centre. 383 St Pauls Tce. Newmarket Gardens Caravan Park (% 3356 The best place to sample native cuisine Train 1458.com.lonelyplanet. and maps. Chez Laila Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10. Buses and the Airtrain (right) run to and Cairns maps and books.au. hound. www ing. 55 Lake St) Stocks an extensive range of guidebooks sell brand names at competitive prices. there’s always Birdee Num Num Bar has $5 meals from (M3) leaves the city. 330 Q U E E N S L A N D • • B r i s b a n e www. while Sun) Download maps for Brisbane River Heritage Trail and . Coachtrans (%1300 664 700. Jesmond Rd. QantasLink and their affiliate air. cnr Queen & Edward Sts). www. snorkelling.30am-4pm Sat & Sun) will on Friday and Saturday. (%3854 1340). connecting Tuesday and Thursday).com. Brisbane to Cairns ($300. cnr Ann & Gipps Sts. h4. Fortitude Valley. tralia.com www.au) Conducts guided day Brisbane Visitors Accommodation Service (%3236 by local bushwalkers.au) operates Skytrans transfers from the air- Wooroonooran Safaris (%1300 661 113. bush transit centre. all-inclusive. 199 Ashgrove Ave.com. serves dinner. 24 hr Fri & Sat) is the nucleus for interstate and Paddy Pallin (%3252 4408). 14 hours. %07 / pop 1. There are over 200 eateries within the bus and train hotline for Brisbane and ests.coachtrans.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Gives park information. four daily) and Absells Chart & Map Centre (%4041 2699. below the Brisbane rooms for 2 $45. down. 145 Boundary St.citybackpackers centre ($12) and the Gold Coast ($24) every koala sanctuary. 2020.worldwidemaps. which are all to the start of Brisbane River Heritage Trail and regional coach arrivals and departures. to Cairns ($175. joining M1 at Eight and Sunshine Coasts. hdinner daily. bane to Sydney ($70.au) runs the high-speed Tilt Train from Brisbane is home to South Bank Parklands barbecues and a fridge. There are several land Tourism’s Backpacker Accommodation the Gold and Sunshine Coasts via the Pa.com. St. Stacks Brisbane to Sydney ($100. Services include Brisbane Helpful for general info and walking track brochures. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (%3378 1366. and is just 150m from the transit centre.qr.com.epa. www . and fifteen minutes’ walk from Brisbane’s TransInfo (%13 12 30. Fortitude Valley) says Mon-Thu. 5.30am-5pm).au) and Jetstar (%13 15 38. is new Bus land’s tropical north. The slower Sunlander also (that’s no fee.au. Its bourne to Cairns. Take Ipswich (M2) or Logan Airtrain (%3215 5000. offered find a bed to suit your budget. www. %07 / pop 98. Sunday. www. Ou. www. is Tukka Restaurant (%3846 6333. 247 Adelaide INFORMATION Fiddlers Elbow Pub has nightly entertain. . and scrumptious. while and RiverWalk. . Linen hire is available and there are free comes in at $19 per person. ment and The Cafe serves good food. www.au) links Australia’s east coast from Mel. issues . www clude Coles Express (Myer Centre. h8. Mile Plains. h8. bungee jumping. Mon- with its own lifeguard-patrolled free beach Bunk Brisbane (% 1800 682 865. On South Bank’s boardwalk.ourbrisbane. St. An adventurers’ playground. lunch & din. Lunches are huge Gold Coast ($35. travels this route ($200.com QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND Australia’s most laid-back capital city. Booking desks are on level three.gov. five Arcade.au) runs from heritage walks around town and if you miss award.snoozeinn from the airport. 32 hours. licensed barbecue opens daily and $10 will line bookings. (% 1800 062 572. tours to less-crowded. Cairns is hugged by best place to buy maps. unpowered/powered sites for 2 $22/23. Painted bright orange. www. QPWS (%4046 6600. cific and Bruce Hwys. city centre.net. Snooze Inn Hotel (%1800 655 805. www. Its from Roma St Railway Station. www. gear from specialty shops. cabins for 2 $75-95. . h8. platter of game meats. Anzac Sq Arcade) The in cosmopolitan Fortitude Valley. www. mains $9-24. 160 Ann St. 9am-1pm Sat) has in.5 million est to the city and buses stop out the front.30am-6. signature dish is an authentic Lebanese plat. Queensland’s southeast. www. Brisbane City Back.com. The Pacific Motorway Central Station (cnr Ann & Edward Sts) to the Gold seeing a koala in the bush.com lines service metropolitan and regional Aus.au. r $85. $16-25. www.com.gov. Their most popular h8am-5.au.

gilligans Buses operate from the Cairns Transit Centre occasion! walkers year-round.geckosbackpackers. 32 hours) on Tues. You might need to queue subtropical rainforest. tropical gar. r $90. plug stands 1157m and is visible from many Equipment (%4031 2669. easily spotted. Spring mezzanine bar that looks like a sheik’s com. Lord Lamington only visited the park once. famous for serious steaks All Day Car Rentals (%4031 3348. These entree-sized the rim. serves up huge steaks. possums.caravella. and loggers attracted by ‘red girth). 4031 . vigorating swim under a waterfall in sum- ais) decries its class. un. smelling. Pademelons graze near camp sites at Opposite the train station. With most of these bowerbirds are regularly seen at O’Reilly’s. dm $21. better-quality gear and hires kayaks and ca. www. elusive Albert’s lyrebird mimicking bush tion throughout Cairns and the region. Few Cairns Coconut Caravan Resort (%4054 6644. (%4051 5899. A taxi Named for an early Queensland governor community kitchens are ideal for prepar. vines. Surprisingly. meals $12-16. The Woolshed tains encircling Queensland’s most popu. liana vines QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND For self-caterers there’s a Woolworths Locally recommended Swiss Cake & Coffee Shop bongrentals. wait-a-while Central Shopping Centre. birds and riflebirds resonate throughout cabin d $55-75. a grazier and the blue. is around $15. Australia’s larg- self-caterers. Trees sound advice on local adventure spots.cairns-car Lamington’s rainforests nurture over 200 noes.jetstar.figtreelodge ago. tw & d $45-65. hearing and feeling the rainforest. s $90. staghorns and crows-nest in fresh fruit and vegies. its affiliate Jetstar (%13 15 38. worker bees.com. Distinctive calls of catbirds. . goannas and non-venomous carpet store extra luggage if you’re off walking.qantas. See Bus p331 for details of fares and ployed during the Depression to construct mer (rain and thunderstorms are common resort-style surroundings with upmarket schedules. tracks you may meet shiny black land mul- has renovated Queenslander homes that are Qantas (%13 13 13. Air Lamington is all about walking. visit Rusty’s Bazaar (Grafton St. (%4031 6304. gliders and bandicoots.com. www. d $46-48.balinese state trains.au. s $31-35. pugnacious Lamington spiny cray will 5680. the Gold Coast. five to six dollars. City Walk Cafe (%4051 5075. ais) has a courtesy bus meals can be upgraded to heartier meals for tects one of the world’s largest stands of the forest. brunches. Gecko’s Back. forests falling to the logger’s axe. day. the arrival and departure point for inter. Gateway Discovery Centre (%4051 3588. and the big runs the Airporter bus to the city. Most walking cember and January. PLANNING ing trail food.com. Rangers close some is centrally located and decorated with . Billabong Car Rentals (%1800 354 299. Fairylands of Antarctic beech forests are at their northernmost ex- SLEEPING & EATING A local bushwalkers’ hangout. Brilliant black-and-yellow regent to the city and there’s a campers’ kitchen. deck bar and a Train ing through lush rainforests to panoramic are crisp but nights can be freezing. set among cool. Green Mountains (commonly known as No bush camping is allowed during De- . breakfast. Adventure dens. h6am-6pm Fri. When to Walk The ‘backpacker’ in the name of Gilligan’s Bus supposedly shooting a koala to mark the Lamington’s temperate climate brings in Backpackers Resort (%4041 6566. There’s a communal kitchen for travels this route ($200. town. -rentals.coconut. Lamington at this time. Included to Brisbane ($300. dm/s Cairns (from $140. whip- powered sites for 2 $32-38. Studio rooms have kitchenettes. 57-89 Grafton St. budget accommodation.com. walk along the 22km Border Track links the heathlands. cnr Shields HISTORY lets (skinks about 30cm long with a 20cm bright and clean.billa with massive buttressed trunks. 1/62 Abbott St) rare or threatened plants and animals.com. Today.lonelyplanet. www.com.au. Social activities boasts over 160km of walking tracks wind. It’s not a booking agent so provides and Guinness. .com. ais ) the bright.com. Its salads are the best.30am-5. 6am-3pm Sat & Sun). erupted 22 million years SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT Fig Tree Lodge (%1800 068 090. hbreakfast figs.com The international terminal allows visitors seeing. Days revolve around the pool. ais) Get Car Rental produced Lamington’s creeks. 332 Q U E E N S L A N D • • C a i r n s www. Cairns Railway Station (%4036 9249. it’s quite and king parrots and crimson rosellas are It’s meticulously maintained by a swarm of the privilege to be able to explore this an. stinging trees. plus charges.com.au) and Virgin Blue (%13 67 89. rivers. 77 & 149 Esplanade. In Most start from $29 per day. 134 Sheridan St) and orchids and the aptly named strangler (Sheridan St) and two supermarkets in Cairns (%4051 6393. 24 Shields St. hdinner) lated and accessible areas – Brisbane and walkers are lucky enough to see his display www. It has combined daily). of Lamington’s lookouts. plan resort. Get topographic are free airport transfers and a continental Wednesday). Town’s the place for cheaper deals. Wollumbin (Mt Warning).30am-6.au) operates the Tilt Train from Cairns tracks start at these trailheads and radiate tracks in adverse conditions but there’s al- unique Balinese-style furnishings. per person $8) of the first to lobby for creation of the park. www gold’ (the prized cedar trees).com. ways something open. dishes $8- NATIONAL PARK tent. outside waiting for a seat. part of the Scenic Rim. while spotlighting reveals packers (%1800 011 344.traveltrain O’Reilly’s) and Binna Burra. Several hostels pro. h8. the graded tracks. is World Heritage–listed and pro. GETTING THERE & AWAY cient landscape. Lake St. Irish-style bar. Continual weathering of its lava flows City Place Disposals (%4051 6040. (not the Australian chocolate-coated cake). r $110-130.au.au. Don’t fancy rain? Then walk in winter. LAMINGTON ferns all flourish. mote free dinners here. www Dairy farmers.30pm) arranges accommoda. Majors are represented at the airport and in leys and escarpments. 215 Lake St. 12.au) fly between Brisbane and mid 1800s. sounds to attract a female companion. spacious rooms have fridges. home-made cakes and slices with excellent coffee. Australia Coach (% 4048 8355. tw & d $100. www. 133 Grafton St) is into the heart of the lodge is a restaurant and Some offer one-way rentals and 4WDs. cnr Bruce Hwy & Anderson Rd.lonelyplanet. two hours). flame trees. dm $26-28. Today the and hires out three-person tents.au. Linen is supplied and they’ll & Lake Sts). est shield volcano. Along the .com www. including gas canister refills. dishes $6-11. An encounter with the bright- At Caravella Backpackers (%4051 2159. Cairns is a city of international cuisine. You can enjoy an in- backpackers. dawn and dusk.au. height is estimated at 2000m. it retreats. Wollumbin’s original equipment. Sunday and from this route. elkhorns. a chain of moun. Lamington. ais) Queensland Rail (%13 22 32. but after all it is a ‘rainforest’). 51 Espla.30pm Men using picks and shovels were em. www.com L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • H i s t o r y 333 permits and has a good collection of books. Thursday and Saturday. like most of ritual. 187 Bunda St. For the ultimate & lunch Mon-Sat) serves the ultimate European. the root stock of some are estimated to be more than 5000 years old. h8.au. www. hbreakfast.com. The slower Sunlander also ENVIRONMENT and tourist maps from the third floor. arrived in the pythons. 253 Sheridan St. cnr Shields & Lake Sts. The Balinese Motel (%4051 9922. Bunda St) is lookouts and over 500 waterfalls. A top travellers’ haunt. powered sites for 2 $34-40. ais) to hop on or hop off in Cairns. 24 hours. 93 Grafton St.virginblue. www. lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) has hearty Lamington’s rainforest-clad slopes form Listen for the melodious song of the nade. Trinity Wharf. www. mini-mart and lots of free fitness activities. An easy attracts birders and flower enthusiasts to munal bedroom.au. val- St) has lower-end camping and walking a home-away-from-home feel in this open. snacks. 46-48 Shields . son of a prominent timber miller were two have it hissing and snapping its pincers as $20/40. www. sangas and vegie meals.

with a challenging. Feeling fit? Extend Day 1 hairs (even from dead leaves) penetrate transit centre. Surfers Para. 3700. more rugged deviation your skin and release a painful irritant. Qantas (%13 13 13.000 Beechmont and Tyalgum day. Surfers bus connects to Binna Burra (p339). Mariners Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99. You then start bleeding. numbers. Surfers Paradise) Helpful for accommoda. Broadbeach. most of which cause the leeches to vomit overnight walkers. For great Aussie seafood – from bugs Duration 2 days Information Sources There are almost as many tour desks to barra – head for Sonatas (%5526 9904.stayoz. Insect repellent (not environmentally friendly). Difficulty moderate the park staff visitor information centres at visit Surfers Paradise visitor information centre hbreakfast. You’ll never go hungry on the Gold Coast. Surfers Paradise. When touched.au. Binna Burra Mountain Lodge shoelace eyelets and your socks. 1½ hours. maximum stay per site 1 night) is restricted SLEEPING & EATING Coolangatta’s Gold Coast Airport is 25km Stay Oz (%1800 359 830.au) travels the same route ($15. Club Surfers Apartments two per day). ably because these black.au.9km Walkers and naturalists with a passion for as hotels. when they escape from their burrows in the leaf-litter Day walkers can use the free maps from has a comprehensive program of guided or drop from trees. 1½ hours.com. Burra’s remote sites are closed indefinitely BEAT THE LEECH sential to discourage leeches (see the boxed because of the risk of tree falls. www. seemingly impenetrable forests engenders pensive. making their way through the visitor information centres (below). Paradise and Coolangatta Transit Centres. (% 1800 680 269. people. 27 Orchid Ave. as) is near the tiple services from Brisbane’s city ($8. of all. . As you stroll along the track.500 opposite the beach. eucalyptus oil.lonelyplanet. the crash of a fall- invade storm-damaged areas or tree-fall being refurbished.premierms favourite parks. dise) and Jetstar (%13 15 38. cascading waterfalls and sweep- permarkets in all big shopping centres and lunch deal is a bargain.com. Fuel stoves Rainforests are notorious for leeches and some novices panic just thinking about them! It’s prob- text opposite) and ticks. ing panoramas.30pm Mon-Fri. (%5596 4434. It’s popular with Start/Finish Border Track trailhead Green Mountains (%5544 0634) and Binna Burra (% 5538 4419. and fall off. that crisscrosses West Canungra Creek (see tidotes include bikini wax strips to remove (%5531 5244. drift in and There’s everything from quick eats to fine O’Reilly’s gift shop sells the book. half. activities. their severe ‘sting’ beach. fine silica world.000 Lamington National Park (p339) offers abseiling (10m to 90m).jetstar. it’s plastic. 1½ hours) and the screech of a catbird. If you want to escape the hype.com. %07 / pop 376. They usually home in on your feet and ankles. limit 6 GETTING THERE & AWAY tracks. dise ($22.britisharms. lunch & dinner). For a comprehensive range of dining area at Costa D’ora Italian Restaurant Summary This walk showcases Green Moun- conditions. it’s ex.com. For self-caterers. cnr Esplanade & Elkhorn Ave. Maps & Books O’Reilly’s Rainforest Guesthouse (p337) Leeches are most active during rain. . ais) is a All buses stop at the Southport.au. matter what. 1½ hours) to ence life in the canopy on Australia’s first lotions. a whisper of breeze in the canopy breaks. Read. then swell until they drop off. www. 334 L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • G o l d C o a s t www. others flick them off or let them feed QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND topographic maps should be carried by to campers and day-trippers. tains’ finest – pristine subtropical rainforests. 8. cnr Distance 28. your socks. 3047 Gold Coast Hwy. you bleed displays walking tracks in different colours. f $120-150. 15m above the bush toileting! Paradise. or they may even travel quietly up your leg to other intimate Hema’s 1:35. These trees are the topic of many Chateau Beachside (%5538 1022. All add to the enjoyment of walking holes from insect attack. but for central information Surf Pde & Queensland Ave. Ask about from Surfers Paradise Transit Centre (%5584 ing it before walking through Lamington’s of Brisbane.com www. Nearest Town Gold Coast (opposite) (%5533 3584) on weekends and school holi. the painful hairs (a tad embarrassing for Hwy. s/d $110-145. This holiday hot-spot is just an hour south have spectacular ocean views. There’s a free bus to/from Surfers’ Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10. r $60.au) the unique sounds of this ancient forest: Giant stinging trees ( gympie gympies) Surrounded by eateries and continually fly from Sydney (from $110. seven per day). Apply liberally to are mandatory. www.com. sites for 2 $8. it’s fast and just very Gold Coast. Before leaving Green Mountains. it’s free. pock-marked with Cove.goldcoasttourism.com. one hour) and airport ($23. just five minutes’ walk from Sea.greyhound or the soothing sound of a gurgling cas- plate shaped leaves. 10 Beach Rd. www. leads you through tree-tops. Maps are available from transfers for those walking the 22km Bor.chateau Nerang Railway Station (%5527 4921) where a tree-top walk. Nerang). But don’t worry – they’re not a death threat and after a while you’ll Guided Walks find yourself picking off these little critters as a matter of course. and one-day guided track walks and one. Surfers Paradise). boots. dm $22-26. Watch the world go by in the outdoor Transport bus days. leeches seem to be winning the rainforest war! Bernard O’Reilly’s Green Mountains ACCESS TOWN gives a graphic account of his 1937 search Gold Coast and rescue efforts following one of Queens. GREEN MOUNTAINS walking. www. i) is near the .au. They give sound advice about current 9am-4pm Sun). admiration for his superior bushcraft. cade. gaiters and exposed skin. 2877 Gold Coast Citytrain and Airtrain (p331) have mul. Contact rangers on the same camping gear see Nerang Disposals & Camping (%5538 5203. www. 10 Spencer Rd. Rooms are spacious and Connections to Green Mountains leave land’s best-known aircraft crashes. special off-peak rates.clubsurfers. 35. A 180m suspended walkway camp site myths – caution is required when beachside. parts. worm-like passengers suck your blood.au) runs from Brisbane to Surfers Para. because it also contains an anticoagulant. dishes $10. experi- guys at the pharmacy) or local anaesthetic beach and a short stroll to the café scene. Sunmap’s 1:25.30am-5pm Sat. It’s glitzy. www. Binna Insect repellent or other deterrents are es. Both provide and then drop off. Main Beach. You can’t feel them attaching because their saliva contains a local anaesthetic. Surfers ground. Fourteen creek crossings add Permits & Regulations throughout the suburbs. tea-tree oil.com. Ave Mall. pause to enjoy WARNING tion and travel services. stockists (p330) or at O'Reilly's and Binna der Track.com. h8. out on your way to some great hinterland dining in this multicultural melting pot. Deterrents come in several forms. Surfers Paradise.au. Identified by distinctive dinner. British Arms YHA Hostel Melbourne (from $155. vinegar.lonelyplanet. two hours) daily. There is no need to book and. lemon juice or salt sprinkled between two layers of finely woven socks have all been tried.qantas. Centre.au. www.70. r $90-150. Cavill locals and also serves vegie meals. The pasta-and-cappuccino mossy gorges.30am-5. best high-rise complex in the heart of Surfers. off-track walks. ing log. There are su. adventure to some of Lamington’s best-loved Bush camping (%5544 0634. www. Activities are offered While some reach for the saltshaker to dislodge them. hlunch & dinner). Transit south of Surfers Paradise. while to a remote camp in one of Queensland’s can last for days. mains $15-25.com L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • G re e n M o u n t a i n s 335 What to Bring and phone bookings are essential. No Burra gift shops.com. Side Trip p338. An.

Mountain Coach Com- Bo National xF O‘Reilly’s Tree Park pany (%5524 4249. Lodgers 700 650 Koolanbilba Rock Darl Bijungoroo Lower ek Cave Tullawallal Lookout Yangahla Ballunjui Lookout Lookout Falls and campers can sample their country-style ingt QUEENSLAND Coomera 500 550 Yerralahla (Blue Pool) Seat Upper Ballunjui cooking. metho and 50 Mountains 0 Echo Falls Visitor Centre Lookout Ships Nyoongai 1000 Stern Lookout Mount Roberts START 1 Gorooburra Lookout spare tent pegs. 0 FINISH 1 & 2 Park 0 0 Lookout ft 50 Charraboomba Be START 2 Rock 800 0 60 Burrawong Book your Green Mountains camp sites Lo rd C llb 55 Lookout 0 Lookout w ir i 0 Br Border Tr er cu Camp Site at QPWS (%3227 8185. continue to 65 700 0 be tR DAY 2 0 35 750 r 0 ive 350 0 80 Ho Albert Rive Lightning Falls rC ircu NEW SOUTH 400 the creek crossing at Triple Falls. 11. There are no ATMs. r Kooloobano k 60 Rd uit ree Elevation 700 0 0 300 25 Lookout Burra Caves Circ nC Jooyamoolya Bithongabel Cave Green Mountains Nixo Binna 1200 Toolona Binna Burra Gorge Green Mountains Mountain Milleribah Lookout O’Reilly’s kiosk sells basic walkers’ needs 500 1100 Green Lodge Moonjooroora 35 Ranger Station including noodles. experience sunset from the Rainforest an Alternative Co Route Camp Bar (meals $15 to $20) or enjoy à la carte ge Surprise Rock Pool Track om Pu Nyahjung Rock 650 Nagarigoon 0 Yargorui Numinbah meals in the guesthouse dining room. s/d from $145/290. er rr Falls ag 85 Cave Lookout a G ul Molongolee 0 li 35 West Canungra C Cave ue GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK 85 o Creek Circuit re rg ek Bl 0 Daves Creek 350 Ca 0 e 85 700 70 Circuit Track Allow two hours from Brisbane or 1½ nu 0 0 80 00 Visitor Centre ng 950 9 ng 300 Ki & Ranger Kalgamahla hours from the Gold Coast via Nerang and ra Station Falls ak in Cr (913m) START/ ga Yarrabilgong Falls Canungra. gas cylinders. It’s a winding. www. most era 75 Kong Valley Tullawallai 500 0 Gong River Cre Circuit with magnificent mountain views.oreillys. daily). Mt Worendo 40 Echo 45 After winding past Chalahn Falls.com. Veer right at the next junction Albert R 11 Mt Toolona (1040m) towards Picnic Rock – your first creek cross- 900 00 M 950 Water (1160m) 900 cp Point Toolona Lookout ing and possibly your first encounter with 650 he 0 iver 45 850 rs a Lamington spiny cray. per person/ 0 an 700m 45 c 0km 5 10 15 20 25 0 25 h Kweebani i family $4/16) and enjoy rainforest settings and t reek Gwongoorool Cave inya C Hidden Chim ack Ca Pool Ships nu Chiminya Valley Stern hot showers. www.epa.day 950 Camp Site Car Goondaree Falls Park Wongaree Falls Coomera tours.com www.au. daily).gov. ra Kurraragin s) has a range of accommodation.au.com.com L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • G re e n M o u n t a i n s 337 Lamington National Park 1 : 60. ing igh Jimbolongerri 300 450 tB ran Cascades WALES Dic Echo 250 ch ) Falls The track winds gradually uphill.7km and turn sio Cascades Lookout ne Chalahn Toolona Falls left on to the Toolona Creek Circuit track. 336 L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K www. moss-covered walls of Toolona Gorge. sealed road from Border Track ee Cr Joalah k FINISH eek Coomera Lookout O'Reilly's Rainforest Lookout 0 Green Mountains Guesthouse Coomera Falls here. 0 10 10 (1142m) 0 00 50 Point 700 1 Toolona Cascades and dramatic Toolona 9 . b (Box Log Falls) Chigigunya Bower 5 55 a Falls 0 h Kagoonya R a Triple Falls olo To Wanungara Falls Moolgoolong 45 0 THE WALK 100 Cascades 105 n Elabana To na g o Falls 45 e To lona Cr Day 1: Green Mountains to Bithongabel 0 0 0 Falls eek Mt Merino Picnic olo C Yilgahn 11 (1165m) Neerigomindala Rock Burraboombana G reek Falls 00 o r Tr ack Falls Bower Bird 60 0 4–4½ hours. and challenges you with reek Mt Cominan 300 Ro us 60 Riv four creek crossings before reaching the 550 (1025m) 0 700 700 250 er 800 Echo Point Camp Cominan Lookout 200 steep. so cash 40 Bell Bird 45 45 Car Le 900 up in Brisbane or the Gold Coast.au) run from Brisbane Transit Cen- Bunyip Falls Lamington Circuit tre ($70 return. www. the park’s most photo- n ge ) Camp site 550 50 Al graphed. but be pp r (R it careful: the mossy rocks can be treacherous.lonelyplanet. Back at the junction.000 0 1 km NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES Mu 50m Contour Interval 0 0. passing ks C Bithongabel Alcheringa 700 Falls Falls several waterfalls. Australian Day Tours (%3236 4155.lonelyplanet.qld. 700 (Le on 800 0 Mt Wagawin reek 110 75 650 800 Walk to the next junction and detour 70m ft 750 0 R 60 Br an Lightning C 0 a ch Bithongabel Lookout left to Elabana Falls. View the mountains from the café Bull Ant Falls on R Spur verandah (best value – burger and drink 0 Falls Nagarigoon $15).2km Pe Falls r C ircu Creek ge Toolona Borde Chakoonya n i t Follow the Border Track for 1.5 mile 550 0 300 70 See the Gold Coast (p334). Bo rs Falls 0 Dragoon Bird Tr r ck 95 de Eerigingboola Creek a Goorawa rT Falls Mt Wanungaba Falls Zigzag downhill past huge brush boxes with ra Green (1165m) ck Mountains Mt Hobwee distinctive salmon-pink trunks and fibrous 0 750 85 10 (1174m) 85 Wanungara Lookout 0 Biby Hill 50 bark socks. O’Reilly’s Rainforest Guesthouse QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND ng Falls Coom Circuit (%1800 688 722. fax 5524 8013) operates from Bord or 85 Top Walk Wajinya Falls 0 es 75 tC Bahnamboola 0 Gold Coast Airport or Surfers Paradise er T Falls irc ui Caboolya Falls t rac S a ra k Tullerigumai Gwongarragong Falls Orchid 700 Transit Centre ($70 return.

Gorooburra Look- rates as you wind from side to side. Ignore it and con. Turn left in midsummer. Jimbolongerri Cascades. It eral creeks on the way to Yerralahla (Blue light at night). caves’. Before turning left. moss-covered Antarctic beech – zag downhill past several smaller waterfalls so cash up in Brisbane or the Gold Coast.lonelyplanet. creek again before reaching a junction. 17. and cross Lightning Creek. lated. lodge packages per person cliffs. maps and books. and believe loose rocks below the area to a bush camp site on the right. Back at the junction. estimated to be 1200 years old. unpowered/powered sites for 2 $22/29.au. Nearest Towns Gold Coast (p334)) southeast along the signposted track. sealed and walk 100m to the end of Kooloobano Turn sharp right near the pool and head Turn left. of glow-worms that sprinkle the walls with leads 100m to Moonjooroora Lookout. The fall and stunning views and you’re on one of downhill to Koolanbilba Lookout. Book Milleribah. east to tinue 100m to the second junction and turn See the Gold Coast (p334). you reach Nagarigoon Clear- to visit beautiful Elabana Falls before returning glades and open eucalypt forest. and you may spot the blue Lamington Transport bus past a huge tallowwood known affection. Linen hire is available for safari caves. Summary Aboriginal legends. pass. laundry. Turn left and follow attract hordes of honeyeaters around July. 200m before bank to Alcheringa. lunch spot. zig. 6–7 hours. The Tea House has café-style meals. take a 330m de- 3½–4 hours. rocky bluff where there are superb views. (The 30m side track to Echo SLEEPING & EATING its left bank. The track rejoins near ary. nan Lookout. from $100. and orchids and other wildflowers peak in the ancient red cedar crowding the left of crosses Toolona Creek twice (collect over. return per person $50). go downhill for 3.com www. September. upstream from choked Nixon Creek. swing Bithongabel Lookout and the cleared camp site Falls makes a great photo stop. passing a rill before Lamington’s most varied walks. of Lower Ballunjui Falls where Nixon Creek Wollumbin and southeast to Byron Bay. Continue Distance 19km THE WALK Gorooburra. Day 1 notes to reach Bithongabel camp. back in Queensland. below Wongaree Falls. 150m cliff. cross Chiminya Creek and pass an. outs and Burrawong Lookouts. tumbles over a two-tiered. you’ll hear Lightning Creek gurgling over Binna Burra’s gift shops have limited gro.) The main Enjoy peace and quiet at Binna Burra Moun. Continue uphill beside a moss-covered on-site safari tents $50/70. beech before rejoining the Border Track. Campers track to the edge of an exposed cliff. Track quality deterio. the canopy opens slightly near Ee. The main track winds This popular walk meanders through cool.50. Lodge if ordered the night before. Add a towering water.com L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • S h i p s S t e r n C i r c u i t 339 Falls. fenced with an avenue of palms. passing a slot guarding Hidden Valley. a munal cooking shelters with coin-operated cliff were thrown by spirits defending the ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: VIA WEST staging point for adventurous forays into barbecues. Ten minutes on is the ‘wedding tree’. to Toolona Creek track. Continue beside northwest (towards Green Mountains) for Falls. 2-/4-bed a small palm-filled oasis. At the next junction. past three more waterfalls tain Lodge (%1800 074 260. The views are great. right across Nixon Creek. tributaries several times and some crossings son $50) and the Airtrain (p331) at Nerang Rail. the Border Wind downhill for about 40 minutes and Binna Burra could cool off in the pool. Abo- 1km and look for a water sign. You’ll soon reach the top GETTING THERE & AWAY levels. way Station (h2pm. Burrawong Lookout. Continue ahead part of this adventure. Masses of Christmas Start/Finish Binna Burra car park the road to the grassy saddle and head Vegetation alternates between rainforest orchids flower here in December and Janu. the final waterfall. The track winds uphill. closely following the Ships Stern Pool).4km to Soon you will reach Box Forest Circuit bluff and steps hewn from a sheer rock face are track. then climb high above anders 400m through lush rainforest to Lightning Falls. once the site of a beautiful remote . follow the Border Track before crossing the creek below Bithongabel com. CANUNGRA CREEK Lamington’s trackless regions. Ignore Bellbird Lookout if you’re still feeling fit. hill. crossing sev. via Nerang and Beechmont. Pano- Don’t attempt it if water levels are high. to Nagarigoon Falls. veer left uphill past get tricky after rain. The track climbs past a storm-damaged ground has hot showers. it’s only 1. i) where the attached camping riginal people knew this area as ‘skeleton the Albert River Circuit junction. walk 300m back down right branch has the best western views. then retrace your steps to Binna Burra buses collect visitors daily views at this halfway point make an obvious Creek. Beyond on the way to Kalgamahla Falls. left near more Antarctic beeches. the track divides briefly – the upstream past the falls to another crossing Difficulty moderate From the car park. This deep pool is always cold. a vantage point near the head of Upper Bal- track junction on the right. If this 50m giant weren’t so iso- night water) and passes a stand of Antarctic Day 2: Bithongabel to Green Mountains outs and don’t miss the climb to Charra. Head and eucalypt forest. descend through QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND a huge. from the Gold Coast along a winding. packed lunches ($16) are available from the etched into the rock and follow a scrubby capabilities. NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES worth taking a 600m detour to the base see northeast to Stradbroke Island. Allow time to linger at the look. From Echo Point.2km for Day 1 is within your Point Lookout for views towards Wollumbin. ferns in Nixon Creek. Swing right. an exposed to allow one hour for the return trip and it’s track climbs again. upstream beside West Canungra Creek turnoff. Nyoongai. The track me. Woollumbin ing fern-clad cliffs and a few short zigzags Duration 6 hours towers over the Tweed Valley. 10. gently uphill to another junction.6km main track a few hundred metres to Echo plus barbecue packs from $9. while tour up to Charraboomba Rock. ceries. other track to Yangahla Lookout. Return to the track. a short detour right leads to Box Log halves of Kong Gong Rock and cross the Cascades and continues beside lush tree Falls in a small gorge.2km to Toolona road. When you reach a Wind further downhill between the two The main track climbs past Ballunjui junction. The track crosses the creek and its the trailhead. You From the previous junction.lonelyplanet. Don’t miss rigingboola Falls. shady palm-filled Ignore Lower Bellbird Circuit turn-off Just beyond. the trail passes Comi. On a fine day. it would have been felled by loggers. the track. ragin Valley. even of the ridge near a stately Antarctic beech. to visit Follow the Border Track to the first Albert to another junction. Great south. Zigzag lunjui Falls. Turn right subtropical rainforest. com. Follow the tents. from Gold Coast Airport (h1. still 5km back to Binna Burra. you can River Circuit junction. Point on the sharp end of Ships Stern. then head up- (no facilities). If you track leads uphill. ing. Banksias and descend between towering brush boxes. You won’t be disappointed! The track leads beside a wide. www. this variation is worthwhile. but you need past several cascades to Caboolya Falls. Allow 1½ hours from Brisbane or one hour escarpment to another junction. Back at the junction. but it’ll be a Track enters NSW en route to Toolona Look. teeth-chattering experience! out. 338 L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • S h i p s S t e r n C i r c u i t www. SHIPS STERN CIRCUIT with the Binna Burra Mountain Lodge. a ship-shaped ately as ‘Big Foot’.7km boomba Rock. return per per. Cross Chiminya Creek. Climb 85 steps If you feel 18. At the next junction. need extra water.binnaburralodge. head downhill to rejoin the Border Track. spiny cray. rocky gully It’s worth another detour. crossing Toolona Creek. a grove of piccabeens flanking boulder- the site of many nuptials. it’s Wanungara Lookout. There are no ATMs. especially following rain. but ramic views centre on Egg Rock and Kurra- Leave the Border Track 250m from moss-covered banks (home to thousands book first.30pm. then goes downhill past more can dine at the Cliff Top Dining Room. 75m left. the track O’Reilly’s and head downhill.

Others like Eli. cross animals.3km on relatively level track Darlington Range. content that most visitors 1836.lonelyplanet. while others. here it’s only 2. on Fraser. Turn left. like Wanggoolba at Central Station. relax along sandy beaches. Her dramatic ‘account’ won world- the head of the gorge and cradles the plum. including the world’s largest (Lake Boomanjin) nestle (p339). THE WALK past Goorawa Falls (the last for the day). It passes through a patch of open euca. but be warned. some eventu- Summary Views into the 160m Coomera ishing lilies that cling to the sheer. Follow the ledge to the first crossing to create six world-class walking tracks Eliza. zig. Dappled light filters through the canopy Woggunba Valley to Springbrook Plateau Three species of turtle live in the lakes. while others are just beautiful. The track then descends Fraser’s up there among Australia’s out. Many regard Fraser’s you’ll be missing some serious scenery up. Valley. spill millions of litres of water per hour into the ocean. has long been home to yellow-faced whip Many creeks drain the island. They’re called the island’s name. Unlike the others.com www. crossing three rills. sufficient lifestyle to be envied – unlimited a few million years. Eliza were among survivors shipwrecked in Start/Finish Binna Burra car park along a very narrow ledge beside the beau. Follow the gently graded track up. it supports several fish species. the largest fern fronds in the world. mossy land Government allocated heaps of money ally escaped to the mainland – including Gorge are awesome. right. their waters percolating through sand. Almost impermeable organic matter and After the fifth crossing. This sunny clearing natural balance of aquatic life. Please don’t feed them. the island’s inner beauty on foot. flow silently past lypt forest then sidles along the edge of a snakes. It’s a gigantic green lilies and ferns as you descend to the leads to Kagoonya Falls. the secret is out. past Gwongarragong Falls towards the Go to the lookout and back (11km re. rajum Creek below another small cascade HISTORY ENVIRONMENT Giant brush box trees give way to glossy and continue uphill to a side track. zag uphill on the right bank for about 15 ‘Great Walks’ and Fraser Island’s Great Fraser’s mineral sands were mined until minutes to reach the base of Bahnamboola Walk was the first. where large lichen-flecked boulders fill the throughout the state. is one gradually uphill for 1. will lead you to vantage points overlook. ignoring the Mt Hobwee track on the Wabby. As you wind uphill. That great seafarer. But on Fraser. subjected to harsh treatment. fourth river crossing. A few minutes later you come to Continue downhill past an exposed seafood and forests providing material for Daves Creek track. (120km by 15km) vegetated sandbar. rejoin the Border Track.5km Falls (150m). ard has taken up residence. to the Coomera streams filling or draining them. meaning that increasing late last century and logging its tall forests Falls. There are great views across Coomera Valley to the FRASER ISLAND shelters. See the Gold Coast (p334) and Binna Burra shallow pools – you may see blue spiny Over half the world’s perched (dune) lakes. as it upsets the as the track descends.lonelyplanet. lakes and creeks as its most distinctive assets. possibly dis. two side tracks numbers of visitors are now appreciating was condoned until just before World Her- There are more than 500 waterfalls in Lam. coloured sands. Captain James Fraser and his young wife Difficulty moderate Beyond the lookout. Some. Over gorge. est. The track leads north Help preserve Fraser’s fragile creeks and lakes by not polluting their waters. the island’s deepest. World Heritage–listed areas. crets for years. it’s no wonder Fraser NEAREST TOWNS & FACILITIES Creek. Seized by Aboriginal people and Transport bus constantly tumble into this crevice. note the massive old tree on the right placing the snakes. on its shores. meaning ‘paradise’. 340 L A M I N G T O N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • C o o m e r a C i r c u i t www. north of Happy ferny gully. Take time polluted lakes. and the Pacific Ocean. some moody. A few minutes later. From rocky outcrop on the cliff edge. shifting ocean currents as you crisscross the river six times on the Cross Gwongarragong Creek and head way back uphill. canoes.6km from Binna Burra. then cross Bower Bird Creek before skirt. Lake Bowaraddy (120m above sea level). hill to Joalah Lookout for good views across its shores. Beyond the falls. itage listing in 1992. cross a flat rocky slab below Moolgoolong Sand is the key to Fraser’s formation. . slide down agined more barren than this peninsula’. partly because the Queens. A from decaying vegetation. Each has its own character: some mysterious and stream of the falls. or the fish. Runnels of water only frequented popular beauty spots. After two more crossings. Matthew cliff until it reaches Coomera Lookout. Flinders was the first Englishman to stand hangs precariously over the edge. the track continues Walkers jealously guarded Fraser’s se. They form when ground level falls below the water table. ‘Nothing can be im- COOMERA CIRCUIT to soak up the superb views of Coomera walk through lofty rainforests. With an average annual rainfall of 1600mm and a ing around a lily-filled gully at Dragoon Bird huge natural aquifer channelling rainwater that fell 60 to 100 years ago. You’ll often see two more fern-filled creeks and continue Window lakes are less common. penned to Binna Burra. And there are plenty more waterfalls view as you ascend. These are usually past Daves Creek track. fruit. From here. which The traditional owners called Fraser Island Fraser is another world. beginning of the walk. and this walk (considered one of ing the falls. Most don’t have with burls on its trunk. of the world’s highest perched lakes. are tannin-stained Set out along the Border Track and walk and then cross the river for the final time. but it’s water that’s made it so special. but recently a fat blue-tongued liz. fishing tackle and a cool escape on summer days. a favourite food of pigeons. These falls stay in K’gari. is an example of this type. Cascades. meander uphill sand hold water in depressions between the dunes. showcasing three wide notoriety and she is immortalised in meting Coomera Falls. in the island’s north. are crystal-clear. Wind past Chigigunya Falls. and most have only two or three fish species. Take the middle 7. Some. As you re-enter eucalypt for. They drifted for weeks before landing QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND Nearest Towns Gold Coast (p334) tiful Coomera Crevice. so keep your eyes open. Turn right and walk 15 to 20 minutes to the Border Track.9km to the Coomera few minutes later. James Cook. golf ball-sized fruit from quandong on. cross Bar- the prettiest) visits one of the most famous. ancient Angiopteris ferns. by mobile Hammerstone Sandblow damming the waters of a natural spring and encroaching on doves and parrots. Perched lakes occur above the water table. Water is so pure that these lakes support few plants and Seat where the track splits. best waterfall hikes in Lamington. Coomera Crevice splits cliffs. ington. retrace your steps to the instead of sunscreen when swimming! wood-turners. including Lake Boomanjin. caused trees. Duration 8 hours Falls (64m) and neighbouring Yarrabilgong mobile sandblows and marvel at cliffs of Didn’t he get it wrong! Distance 17. Lake blue. like Lake McKenzie. crays. noting. Look around the edge of the clear is adorned with fast-flowing creeks and 40-plus lakes. Definitely one of the riverbed. nour. so foreign matter can be trapped for many years. and hugs the standing natural places – international and the first record of the island. Theirs was a self. branch and head downhill. PRISTINE LAKES AND CRYSTAL CREEKS turn) for a shorter walk. through a blanket of sedge.com F R A S E R I S L A N D • • H i s t o r y 341 camp. It’s also known as a barrage lake. which Australian visitors flock here to swim in un. Try a T-shirt caused by insect attack and are prized by Seat.

gov.au) have daily services Fraser offers something year-round. Buccaneer Ave. Hervey Bay Tourist Terminal. 820 weekends. supporting diverse forest types and Fraser is a 4WD-only area and permits from sushi to club sambos. cnr Maryborough-Hervey Bay & Urraween Rds. iconic lakes becomes part of your day. Hervey Bay visitor information Hervey Bay ($120. a VIP backpacker resort oppo. dm/r $25/70.000 topographic map Great to be walked. hbreak- changing before your eyes. www can leave vehicles for $5 per day.fraserislandco.com. at Central Station.8km huge range of tents and camping gear. Strong rips are fast & lunch) is a popular haunt. It’s a designated highway decays and recycles these minerals. Boat Harbour Dr). Sleeping develop. It has the best But how do Fraser’s forests survive on a There’s an historical display of the island common and sharks. a cool dip in one of its . They Station to Pile Valley is an absolute must. QPWS Rainbow Beach been serving the world since the early 90s. and home-made biscuits bed of sand? They draw mineral nourish. all-inclusive Cool most convenient launching place for Fra. must be displayed on your windscreen. for Day 2. Black Dog Cafe (%4124 3177. www. unpowered/ . hbreakfast. www.king This peaceful. h8. 29 Lido Pde. stopping Winter and spring are definitely the best for Transport ferry. Keep out of the surf. and expansive sandblows to a lake that’s so powered sites for 2. Vegetation Permits & Regulations town. maximum 3 people). sites for 2 $20. unwind after your Fraser hike. hlunch & dinner) has a great and it’s really hard to hear vehicles cessive dunes form. ribs to seafood unprotected in the sand dunes is not the state’s most extensive heathlands. www. Several access points provide links to site the beach. 4799.koalaadventures. and mouthwatering seafood. waterfront Cafe Balaena (%4125 QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND run over hung-over tourists. www. . Licensed. atmosphere and excellent staff.au/camping or call %13 13 04.50-17.au) and Premier Motor Service (%13 When to Walk 5pm Mon-Fri.au.sunshine to distract would-be predators or inquisi. deeper nutrient layers . when temperatures settle walk beside towering rainforests. mains $10-20. www. the male of the family feigns a broken wing for guests and day visitors. GREAT WALK FRASER ISLAND (%4194 0622. Urangan. where a Trainlink bus ($5.com. has a party atmosphere. www.qld. It also offers fully self. espe. 428 Esplanade. Urangan. staying at its Wilderness Lodge (2. bunk- Take fuel stoves. Swim and walk Australia’s whale-watching capital and the Sunshine Express (% 13 13 13.traveltrain. lunch & dinner) has swim north in cooler months. s).grey PLANNING port you to beauty spots. Education Camp (%4127 9130. a) include breakfast.com F R A S E R I S L A N D • • G re a t W a l k F r a s e r I s l a n d 343 have stolen and deposited sands from north. d $120-150. The dune systems still evolve – It’s best to gather information from www WARNINGS (%4125 1515. www. Beachfront Tourist Park (%4125 1578. five hours. run from Brisbane to Hervey Bay. to spirit her chicks away from harm. 4WDs use these areas and have Fraser is a buffer zone for seagrasses.com) offers ranger-guided eco walks voted ‘Australia’s happiest place to live’. vast wild. Information Sources Locally recommended Bayaroma Cafe ern NSW. cnr Alice & Be dingo-safe (see the boxed text p346). nothing here except the camp. As suc. Shop 7. warm clothes for chilly Butchulla people. stingers and box coffee in town. s) at also issue information brochures about the so it’s been included in the total distance lakeside spa makes this a perfect place to Happy Valley (the end of the trail).herveybaybedandbreakfast. The female may be trying Kingfisher Bay Resort (%1800 072 555. You’ll identify hosts of seabirds. ancient permanent streams fronttouristparks.com. www. Esplanade. QPWS Maryborough (%4121 1800.premierms. island to contain all its jewels. www. lations. 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) is best for advice 34 10. a general store and fuel next door. house per person $20.beach Queensland Rail (%13 22 32. Koala’s Beach Resort (%1800 354 535.or three-day. 2 Boat Harbour Dr) and The Camping Bay Central Coach Terminal (%4124 4000. You can self-cater or eat and drink in Maps the Great Walk or enable smaller sections Rates at Lakeside B&B (%4128 9448. 449 Esplanade. centre (%1800 811 728. www the bar and bistro at Fraser Island Wilderness The QPWS 1:50.com.com. Torquay) sandflies will always inhabit swampy areas. Bay Central sistent rain. 424 Esplanade) is central and has every. in the name doesn’t mean shops – there’s you a hot shower at Central Station. 4 bed r from $240-280. hound. Naturally. A $1 coin will get dustry. Boat Harbour Dr. salads. Chances of rain are reduced. Mile Beach. Catch Bus No 5 to 28°C) are most popular with campers. ais). even during school holidays and long Fraser needs to be the world’s largest sand (%1800 818 280. ser Island trips. Rainbow Beach Rd. It’s and 25km east of the Bruce Hwy. cool. lect them from QPWS Brisbane (%3227 8185.au) connects Brisbane with Maryborough are at their best. although mosquitoes and Start/Finish Dilli Village/Happy Valley 6511. Summary Nowhere else in the world can you SLEEPING & EATING ($45. seaside town has just been Hervey Bay is 300km north of Brisbane. and cakes are a speciality.au before heading for Fraser. from March.au) flies between Brisbane and tive humans. Greyhound Australia (% 13 14 99. Retreat (%1800 063 933. 4WD taxi at the coach terminal and Urangan Marina walking. critical for dugong and green turtle popu. 342 F R A S E R I S L A N D • • P l a n n i n g www.gov.au. Hervey Bay. Distance 83. running along on Guided Walks %07 / pop 36.80) for the 7km ride to Urangan Marina Annoying insects decline in cooler months Difficulty moderate smaller Torquay Disposals & Camping (%4125 to transfer to Fraser Island. and Friday).herveybay. f $180-220 up to 5 people. two per day). cabins $60.30am-5pm Mon.com. cially after June. ‘Village’ flies and other peskies.com between 14°C and 21°C and wildflowers flower heathlands. Meals range above the crash of the surf.qld.com www. then return Lennox Sts. red legs.au.epa. to Antarctica with their young during (%5486 3160. De. possible tropical storms or per. on accommodation and tours. Meander. summer and autumn (22°C Duration 5 days Company (%4124 7233.au. jellyfish are likely to be lurking. Check out the blackboard specials. Great Outdoors ($32 to $50) from Brisbane to Hervey Bay’s spite heat. 160 Ann St. Dingo tour.lonelyplanet. $19/24) is on the beach and has via the Tilt Train ($65. 408 Esplanade. Torquay. Suntours (%1300 735 301.100 GETTING THERE & AWAY skinny. NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES salads. Colonial Cabins Resort transfers to Hervey Bay. . a family atmosphere.gov. daily). Set in bushland.30am.com. There’s Great Walk. h7am-4pm daily) or Dine with locals and enjoy huge meals and warmer climes. Look Hervey Bay for pied oystercatchers.lonelyplanet. www. ple. h9am-5pm daily). dm/r from $20/50. one hour.qld. 381 Esplanade. while fisherbay. Col. 4WD coaches trans. on a two.90) needn’t share your site with hordes of peo. dishes $5. and logging roads and contained accommodation. express. The side trip from Central .coloniallogcabins. Sunday Designated walkers’ camps mean you clear you can see turtles on the bottom. four hours. The ($2. ask about other collection points.gov. 108 Boat Harbour Dr) have a Shopping Centre. h8.epa. For camping and vehicle permits visit www Torquay.com. Walk Fraser Island is all you’ll need. Watch for migrating whales as they Fri).au. ment from sand and absorb trace minerals Still one of the most popular eateries in Take care walking along Seventy-Five washed into the sand by rain. ais) Fraser Island ing through Fraser’s magical paradise you’ll is a spotlessly clean YHA backpackers that Near the trailhead at Dilli Village Environmental What to Bring be following ancient trading pathways of has a bar and eatery. and the r $140-180 1-3 people. Nearest Town Hervey Bay (opposite) thing you need for a hiking trip to Fraser.qld. mains $10-27. you nights and insect repellents to banish March tramways that served a bygone forest in.

Turn right at the next road and 100 Boomanjin Hill curving right. nd Lookout 10 on on 0 15 per day). Head through tall Woocoonba Dilli Village Lagoons START below banksias and bloodwoods to the piccabeen palms to the appropriately named . then veers away Be nn Fraser Island 10 50 e camping gear and can arrange food pack. general store and fuel. Back at the junction. Kingfisher Fast Cat (%1800 072 555) peppered with sedge and macrozamias. as) is ers’ camp. Walk past Basin Lake turnoff and con- 0 Wongi st gh Gero am La s Sandblow views. extra a swampy depression before reaching Lake ree he r 10 et 0 10 k Co t Rd n 0 days $60) include equipment. Lake Boomanjin 100 About an hour from the start. into banksia woodland. Many were felled during the late 50 1800s and early 1900s for wharf planking Lake (108m) THE WALK Ro and piles. follow a level tinue towards Pile Valley. Select a camp site and return to Cen. 13. attack. www. 30 minutes. Kingfisher Bay–Dilli Village brush box and satinay – the Fraser Island Station e st La kes Trail Pile Valley is $105. hires hiking and leucas fringing the lake. Three-day deals ($300 per person. Casuarina nee. the track tral Station. food. permits Birrabeen – a good swimming spot. species dating from Gondwanan times. max 3 adults. A narrow bitumen road leads Car Park ek leads through a long sandy swale to a junc.) Eurong QPWS La k es Information Centre Roa d Follow a sandy road west from Dilli Village Continue downhill. The track winds up and down 15 50 0 Vehicle and passenger ferries operate from along a ridge covered with leaf-litter and Rainbow 50 50 Hervey Bay. some were used during construc. Head tank and descend a set of steps to cross a 0 Camp Benaroon site uphill through coastal woodland before sandy road. It’s the only cab. www. then has elevated storage lockers to keep food Beach west to a cluster of twisted angophoras with away from marauding goannas. Head past the car-based camping Petrie's camp Bo (Historical (134m) the ultimate treat before and after your walk. 100 Fraser Island gim ba site) h Creek Wilderness Visit the Sandbar (open to day-trippers) or dles and gum leaves blanket the track as Lake Garawongera Retreat the Maheno or Seabelle Restaurants for that you head north along the soft.000 0 100 4 km 50 50 50m Contour Interval 0 2 miles 50 Chard Rocks . (116m) La Bre Car Park ke Fraser Island Taxi Service (%4127 9188. before cresting a ridge lined with 0 Wabby ee Basin Lookout k (103m) Lake Central For are essential.com. 12. tallowwood DAY 5 Camp site 100 Fraser Venture (%1800 072 555. ground to Lake Boomanjin. There’s a viewing ke Rd s Tr Sheep Station track through macrozamias (Aboriginal platform beside a huge angiopteris fern. distinctive pink trunks.lonelyplanet.1km Rd 10 0 0 Mill R 0 50 d Badjala Poyungan . Great Walk Fraser(110m) Island 100 1 : 185.fraserservice. There’s also Cross a few tannin-stained rills.com. sandy shore. Meander through undulating W a ng Lake nzi d goo Lake SOUTH McKenzie Rd e lba Wabby and arranges food drops to/from anywhere terrain. Airstrip Break Campground then pounded them to make flour). veer left and con.lonelyplanet. cross a firebreak and continue tinue beside the creek. Lake 0 10 QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND 0 Giant ($50 return. 344 F R A S E R I S L A N D • • G re a t W a l k F r a s e r I s l a n d www.fraserisland4wd 10 i 5 hours. Gorge 10 leaves Urangan Marina for Kingfisher Bay After crossing several fallen logs. beside a swampy area. so bookings trees. 10 0 Happy FINISH pre.kingfisherbay. east around the lake to a junction. (Satinays were once prized for 50 DAY 3 Euron One will set you back $120 (up to five passengers their ability to withstand marine borer Information Rd g Camp 50 Tree site1 Rocks for each service). Rd 50 rn Nulwarr el w Hill ls and maps. Crest head past Pile Valley track to Central Sta. passing the stumps of long-felled (Boorangoora) Hammerstone PACIFIC 15 Lake Sandblow OCEAN Cr on the island. Jennings Great Sandy ck National yC Day 1: Dilli Village to Lake Benaroon tion of the Suez Canal and others to rebuild Lake Park Eurong re e k Birrabeen Beach 5 hours. Sandblow Rocks 0 pick-ups and drop-offs.com. 0429 379 come taller as you enter a stand of majestic M 100 ak R Camp site cK 100 e DAY 4 188. Turn right and clamber uphill to the a boardwalk beside crystal-clear Wanggoolba ea Di (Walameboulha) Fo Sea wwe 15 lli n re top of Wongi Sandblow for stunning coastal Creek. It curves around Sleeper No Be n n tt C Hill rt ages. (211m) Markwells Lookout a sandy ridge dotted with bloodwoods and tion camping ground. www dingo-proof enclosure surrounding a walk. three a junction at the camp site.5km London Docks after WWII. while the Fraser Dawn connects ga Bo 0 Cr on Urangan Marina with Moon Point. Veering east from the lake. then curve P oy 100 50 ung Valley an a bakery.au) at Kingfisher Bay Resort provides From the junction. r $270-300.and post-walk indulgence. Descend Kingfisher Leading Hill Valley of Giant $120/20 return) runs a ferry from River Heads again and veer left beside the lake towards Bay Resort (184m) the Giants satinay Poyungan Seventy 10 Five Mile Du Valley 0 Beach Bo to Wanggoolba Creek (30 minutes. six per day). the trees be. Benaroon comes into view through regen. Dili Village Environmental Education Camp downhill. Day 2: Lake Benaroon to Central Station e 100 Cr ek Sm eek th 10 Aussie Trax (%1800 249 330.com www. vehicle/walker erating brush box and blackbutt. curve past a water 50 15 Air 15 DAY 2 Lake 0 Strip to a boardwalk spanning a wetland.au) transports walkers blackbutts. the track passes mela. Cr 15 50 eek 150 0 Coral Turn left towards Lake Benaroon and Sea GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK climb north. This huge enclosure 10 Seventy Five Mile 0 scribbly gums and follow it northeast. while Happy Valley–Kingfisher Bay turpentine. steeply downhill from the day use area to Cre Beeliwa Lagoon Red Lagoon Coral tion. a ai Lagoons 10 l 0 Toby's Private people leached poison from their red fruits. Wind At the next junction.com F R A S E R I S L A N D • • G re a t W a l k F r a s e r I s l a n d 345 Kingfisher Bay Resort (%1800 072 555.

1300m to the left. but they can be aggressive and Its diameter is 3. but irresistibly signed junction. borne Trail. follow a hard-packed road except Tasmania. Their ears are pointed. Turn left towards Lake Wabby. Let them grow up purple lilly-pilly berries litter the ground. and they have a distinctive trotting gait. tion. Head past casuarinas to the ridge top. cross Retrace yesterday’s steps to Valley of the leuca wetlands. road and leads east around the lake. Their hunting skills were honed to as you continue climbing. away from the road. but we need to respect them and their environment. follows an old logging tramline to another the Giants around a ridge and descends southeast to but it’s certainly worth a look. cross another ridge and an old road. a walking and continue 500m ahead. It’s a great spot now been removed. This Head uphill. past the car park spindly eucalypts. Hinchinbrook is a huge 35km-long island Never feed dingos – wild animals should fend for themselves. It’s probably too early to swim. marks the start of a long. then climb to a may hear wompoo fruit-doves as you climb They are small animals. The track climbs northwards along a soft. When you reach a walkers’ camp to Lake Garawongera. high above the valley floor. probably from a subspecies ing the high dunes gives way to rainforest fragile environment. There’s one more ful Lake McKenzie. Follow the old tramway route through lush its east coast. you’re asked to eat in of grey wolf. striped with white on their chests and 600m east. climb gradually to Climb north over several low rises. 18. a great place for a swim. If attacked.) Walk back through Central Station to levels below a stand of blackbutts. veer right through dogs. road and veer right along a walking track. towering to cool off. downhill through tall scribbly gums to Val. Skirt a swampy depression before ers’ camp.5km underfoot. Continue past mela- Back at the junction. around the western edge of the lake. Australia’s largest (and by far Queensland’s Never encourage or coax dingos – they might look loveable. continue to a T-junction and go right sandy road. junction and continue towards Lake Mc. all vying for the sunlight. Day 5: Valley of the Giants to from fragile mangrove forests on its west- defend yourself aggressively. tessellated bark are slash pines. Evolving in Asia. col. rodents. and leads From here. Head down- appealing. Head northeast uphill to a stand of QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND Wanggoolba Creek and Basin Lake turnoff. Go left and climb through swing right. but because of its Dingos are one of Australia’s most efficient killers.lonelyplanet. tree. to Lake Wabby Lookout for great views across Crest a ridge. Make sure your group is aware of the basics (on-the-spot fines are imposed on foolish people not leads to the island’s tallest satinay. track as you approach another road. they only have one litter of up to six pups a year and rear them in a den until they’re old to Badjala Sandblow and great coastal views. but despite the crowds. The other pines with reaching a walkers’ camp. Instead of barking. less than knee-high. unpredictable. they arrived with sailors around 4000 years ago. Petries Logging Camp but all traces have 7 hours. The and Tasmanian devils from the mainland. Because of Fraser’s isolation. At the top of the ridge. Leave your packs and contour heavily logged and is now revegetated with towering kauri pine. descend to a road and turn animals. Happy overly cruel or savage. but engage in pack warfare when larger prey is targeted. away from the interbred with domestic dogs and they are among the most genetically pure. damaged area. Open forest surround. road to cross before returning to the camp. It’s DINGOS ered with leaf-litter. then follow the around the edge of a ridge. 6 hours. A short climb leads veyors. head north downhill along the left of a gully between tall dunes. Cross a few steep ridges. to sandy palm-lined beaches.com www. It’s worth dropping your packs to visit wilderness in the state’s tropical north.7km sweeping bays and rugged headlands on Report all dingo incidents. Unlike domestic the base of a huge dune. of the wilderness watch over the island – If threatened. one of a road. where the track Day 4: Lake Wabby to Valley of above the valley floor. climb another ridge and contour enough to hunt for themselves. wild. those same mountains seem to . Small but beautiful Basin Lake is 150m wards the next sandy road. descend to cross another early 1900s plantation. The track contours to the right. a gate. 19. keeping eye contact with the dog. around 1000 years old. mind us of Fraser’s logging days. These hulking sentinels to steal unprotected food or scraps. ley of the Giants track junction. Happy Valley ern shores. continue to a third where a 3km side track Fatalities from dingos have occurred in recent years. It curves around the lake and then descend to Lake Wabby. a swim here Feel like a romp on the sandblow? Head Huge sawtooth banksia leaves blanket the ing ground where you can indulge in a hot is an unforgettable experience. Valley Pub is just 200m along the road. It’s cool below the canopy as you head to. This section of forest was tions and head uphill through an avenue of Kenzie. Drop your packs and walk to the top of a long.lonelyplanet. along a eucalypt-lined ridge to hill and look for a tree blazed by early sur- the tips of their bushy tails and feet. towering above piccabeens. sandy ridge. Fraser’s most attractive perched lakes. winding downhill to a junction at the walk. Follow the main track left. colonising all areas of Australia veers right. downhill HINCHINBROOK ISLAND adhering to common sense rules): through beautiful forest to another junc. junction. At the next road. After hugging the Crossing Hinchinbrook Channel’s sea- Walk in groups – lone walkers are more likely to be stalked or bailed up. They were probably responsible for the demise of Tasmanian tigers (thylacines) through piccabeen palms to another road. The terrain left down steps to a picnic area at the end of Dingos are natural scavengers. Before returning to camp. return to the junction and follow the grass beds you’re confronted by huge gran- Secure your food and rubbish in containers provided at camps – dingos will rip through tents main track 400m to the camp site. They’ll hunt alone for small into tall forest. After completing the Thors- rainforest and climb gradually past a storm. Turn right at the next two junctions and these dingos may be culled – for habits taught by people. lect water at the car park. A walking track the picnic area. if they scrounge from people they lose their hunting skills and become aggressive.6m and it’s believed to be most rugged) island national park. Crest a low hill. watchfully aloof and never friendly. Sadly. (The left-hand track leads 500m to Day 3: Central Station to Lake Wabby track veers left downhill and becomes firm finger of soft sand to crest the sandblow. By nature’s standards they’re not levels below a cool stand of rainforest where the walk – but not the end of the day. 7 hours. ite mountains. Ignore it right. steep climb high tion. perfection as they slunk through our grasslands and woodlands. satinays. Turn left downhill to another another road and crest one final ridge before Giants turnoff. They have roamed gentle gradient. its dingos have rarely Continue through closed forest on a walking track swings right. It’s Fraser’s tallest tallowwood. always looking for an easy feed. over a dense understorey of macrozamias. so it’s important to be dingo-safe. and establish and defend territorial rights. 20km a disused 4WD track. You Fraser for several thousand years. part of an fence to the shores of stunningly beauti. Occasional tree stumps re. Turn right at the next two junc. 346 F R A S E R I S L A N D • • G re a t W a l k F r a s e r I s l a n d www. Turn shower. continue ahead on a service trail cov. away from the road. along a sandy ridge to a junc. They gather in packs.com H I N C H I N B R O O K I S L A N D 347 Pile Valley. reptiles and birds. they have a mournful howl. You’ll rarely find yourself Hammerstone Sandblow. Back at the junction. alone. Climb a wide again. remain calm and back away. their coats usually yellow.

This migratory white bird with black outer ern tip of Hinchinbrook. %07 / pop 1420 Tuesday.au.com. Heavy Cardwell’s Rainforest & Reef visitor information modation and tours. a view through co- food. dishes $8-16. Collect tide timetables ers point north to south. Raincoats are invalu. near the beach. to north. www burning can force trail closures. Pre- waters cover fringing reefs and are home from the Rainforest & Reef visitor informa. feel. and are some of Australia’s richest has a wealth of natural history information. the world’s largest reptiles. www. months in advance for holiday times. ais) transport guests to/from the boat ramp (per Long-sleeved shirts. 107 Vic- extremely cautious during breeding season (September to April). 13 Stoney Creek Rd. but prepare provides up-to-date info. He’s Cardwell and Thursday) and Cairns ($40. These fascinating your permit (below). stop mozzies. three hours. sandflies and March flies car. Victoria QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND to reach hanging food!). Its mangrove forests are im. limited supplies are available. or wish to protect all that is wild and beautiful marauding native rats. This trail is included on most short lists of are good value. These jellyfish are the Distance 32km will collect you from the bus and drop you world’s most venomous. Greyhound Australia (% 13 14 99. 26 hours. GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK repellent will help to keep them under con. departing tropical rainforests. an unforgettable island experience. Cairns ($31. www. conditions. Transparent tentacles up to 3m long contain millions of stinging Difficulty moderate at the ferry.grey ENVIRONMENT The QPWS Thorsborne Trail map and mer.gov. often shrouded in One Step Beyond details his ordeal when have a recipe for a memorable walk. hlunch & dinner). is) is a taste. They’re covered with trapped beneath a one-tonne rock while The Sunlander also stops here. opposite the north- on Hinchinbrook. Book with ca’s El Capitan and Tasmania’s Federation Separated from the ocean by the Bruce Hwy. Forgot. 175 Bruce Hwy. 71 Victoria St) sells basic camping supplies. Heed the signs and be Lucinda (right) meals. humid months centre (%4066 8601.com. since climbed Africa’s Kilimanjaro. Ameri. lunch & dinner).com range to transfer it to the other end. Staff Don’t swim in the sea during box jellyfish season (October to April).wanderers-lucinda. rat-proof boxes at camp sites or suspend food above the ground (al. For beach camping. and Brisbane ($165. Monday and Friday) and Cairns Several mountains. . Use the metal. Cardwell is 165km north of Townsville. clouds. as) Will What to Bring Permits & Regulations powered sites for 2 $18/22. He was rescued two NEAREST TOWNS Brisbane ($200. creeks. as) Duration 4 days offers more upmarket B&B style stays. and gear from trowels to backpacks. For an inspiring read. waterfalls and deep plunge pools. www.com to marine grazers including dugongs and tion centre (below). The centre also houses SLEEPING & EATING Wanderers Holiday Village (%4777 8213. and fully renovated squash court with a great Hinchinbrook Island Ferries (%4066 8270. cells. trousers and a tent will Permits are essential and are issued by the has excellent facilities and also offers villas. For quality home-made coastlines. carry a length of any mountain other than Nina Peak. www cord or fishing line to hang food above the fuel stoves are mandatory (no fires). There’s an for rain at any time. Sunday and Wednesday). Orange mark. Day 4. The trail follows the east coast and can hound. try Annie’s Kitchen (%4066 8818. four hours) green turtles.com. while you’re still fresh. GETTING THERE & AWAY congratulate us. dm/s/d $18/35/40. and yellow south Brisbane ($185.cardwellbackpackers. ishes with an easy walk along the beach on Cardwell is on the route of the high-speed rine life. inhabit creeks.30pm) 8521. Warren MacDonald’s and Mulligan Falls on Days 2 and 3 and you 21 hours. idyllic rock pools. open woodlands and climbing Mt Bowen. which runs from Brisbane ($290. unpowered/ ered sites for 2 $20/24. cabins from $70. and fin.au). and insect of 40 people on the trail at any one time. cool tropical Enjoy ocean breezes. www. www.au) has services to Cardwell from Hinchinbrook is surrounded by the Great guide can be downloaded when booking be walked in either direction.qld. View the excellent There are several ATMs on the main drag.com www.com. dm $18.au). Add a swim in plunge pools at Zoe Tilt Train. portant breeding grounds for a host of ma.kookaburraholidaypark. 26 hours). It’s named for local conservationist. six per day) and Barrier Reef Marine Park. St. Maps & Books wing feathers and tail tip nests here in sum. side trip to Nina Peak for spectacular views . by Arthur and Margaret Thorsborne. There’s a limit motel units and cabins. ($55. rivers. drier months between April Information Sources information centre (opposite) books accom. lagoons and Nearest Town Cardwell (below). Sunday. Bruce Pde. groups are limited to six. cyclone threats and controlled walking the trail. If in doubt. the QPWS office. the late Arthur Thorsborne.au) also connects to Cairns ($24. Native rats will chew through packs and tents (and pretty much anything else) looking for Summary Curved sandy bays. 26 hours. rainforests. proach to Hinchinbrook Island. Cardwell Hardware (%4066 This tiny fishing port is the southern ap- rain is common in the hot.au. QPWS (%13 13 04. 3½ hours. cascading wa. the world’s ‘best treks’. dishes $7-14. d $35.com. %07 / pop 783 and September are best for walking. Contact can cause severe shock.premierms. Free able and light sandals are great for crossing that special permits are required to climb . respiratory failure and cardiac arrest. hbreakfast.lonelyplanet. Hinchinbrook Hostel (YHA) (%4066 8648. Extremely dry or wet 15-minute video Without a Trace before ATM at the shop. Start/Finish Ramsay Bay/George Point The only supermarket is at the town’s Estuarine crocodiles (salties). Fuel and between December and March.au) leave Port Hinchinbrook . Book at least 12 Spotlessly clean Cardwell Central Back. Walking north to south allows a mier Motor Service (%13 34 10. conut palms to Hinchinbrook Island and though the rats are famous for their ingenuity – even leaping from the top of your tent to try terfalls and stunning vistas conspire to create tasty meals at Marine Hotel (%4066 8662. knowing we will share their ground – away from the island’s infamous who with wife Margaret spent years moni. s/d $75/100. person $5).traveltrain. Don’t ever complain about blisters! this sprawling town is your departure point When to Walk for the trail. www.mudbrick WARNINGS manor.com. northern end.au. exceed 1000m.au. The Rainforest & Reef visitor Lucinda The cooler. four per day). 348 H I N C H I N B R O O K I S L A N D • • E n v i r o n m e n t www. Queensland Rail (%13 22 32.com H I N C H I N B R O O K I S L A N D • • T h o r s b o r n e T r a i l 349 THORSBORNE TRAIL Mudbrick Manor (%4066 2299. h8am-4. Tuesday fragile heathlands and cradle spectacular days later and had both legs amputated.lonelyplanet. Ferry operators will store luggage and ar- trol during the day. Sightings around North and South Zoe Creeks are common. Note packers (%4066 8404. 79 Victoria St. It hires out camping rying you away during the night.hinchinbrookferries. Transport ferry/bus toria St. and most diverse. Thursday and Saturday). EPIRBs are available on request. just 200m from the bus stop. PLANNING Peak. four hours. www . unpowered/pow- . 184km south of Cairns. wait till low tide or or steak sandwiches and hearty steak salads turn back. Aussie-style fish Heavy rain and high tides make creek crossings dangerous. Hinchinbrook Island – The Land Time on Day 1. toring pied (Torresian) imperial-pigeons. 6 Brasenose St.

It will also transfer walkers 0 The Thumb Banksia Creek Falls left. cross more shallow gullies and erfall Creek 400 creek. Wednesday and Friday from November Jetty Boardwalk red beech trees with distinct red. 350 H I N C H I N B R O O K I S L A N D • • T h o r s b o r n e T r a i l www. woody acacias and casuarinas Cross a few gullies. Walk right 400m. then right. but 10 150 at camp 0 lined tidal reaches of Nina Creek. 1km. wait-a-while. then descends steeply to an alterna- 0 400 600 S 300 then cross shallow gullies flanked with 450 Side Trip we Cr etwa The Thorsborne Trail descends past a tive camp site beside the bay.30am ($60).) Ford the tidal creek to continue past a bog below tall palms where at Ramsay Bay at 11. Skirt the C (other times on demand). cross another tributary and Contour around the ridge and descend . and runs Sun. but not a banksia in sight! It’s (955m) sand Beach. Boat START edge of the lagoon.lonelyplanet. They love www. Look for turtles and crays in the small. Mt Diamantina Diamantina 200 eek ter small. 100 a low ridge. Heed the 50 rth sb or oe demand Saturday & Sunday). A few minutes later you pass more 700 800 to/from Townsville Airport to Lucinda or Day 2: Little Ramsay Bay to Zoe Bay quandongs. lies flanked with nasty bits of lawyer vine and day. to Monday-Thursday. Th along the beach. Pacific A distinct path leads steeply uphill to an a-woo’ of wompoo fruit-doves. 6. Hinchinbrook Z oe C on the left and continue for five minutes to A well-defined track leads around the side of Island South 15 Head inland. to January and during April. flaky bark. the track leads aids your ascent.hinchinbrookwildernesssafaris. two hours. Cross a small tidal creek crocodile signs – they’re not for decoration! Z Cr e North Zoe Creek crossing: beware ek eek of crocodiles (may be difficult at high tide) and scram. (A footpad on the northern side upstream beside Fan Palm Creek. Head down the beach to a large sighted here. This is usually a reliable Ford again near a huge fan palm on the is the highest point (220m) on the track. other rocky outcrop and continue uphill water point. Look for old-growth stringybarks as Bay from smooth granite slabs are a real 100 follow a watercourse down to the mangrove. Climb an. 250 No water you head into a cool section of forest.5km 650 uphill.com www. Day 1: Ramsay Bay to Little Ramsay Bay Zoe Bay stony beach – a secluded. rocky slab at a saddle. to the creek bed. Departures are Nina trees to the summit. sometimes called Continue through open forest. alternative camp After walking this far. before the final creek cross- short cliff. You’ll al- services in February and March. The track descends. It levels out through casuari. to an expanse of lichen-stained rocks in rocky gullies. Rock hop around the next headland to to continue 100m for a swim below beauti- From the jetty follow a boardwalk to a res s Pi Camp another small beach. Banksias line the track as you descend. Return to Zoe Falls and climb a stony track 700 25 reaching a saddle. reek across Mt Bowen’s craggy cliffs and beyond that appear totally misplaced on the edge QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND 500 C awilla Crossing awkward Ingham Travel (% 4776 5666) provides a 45 0 Warr Little Ramsay at high tide to mangrove-lined Missionary Bay. 500 50 Cyp site sandy swale behind the dunes and make DAY 3 track leads uphill. Cross several a crossing. This perma. Cross more gul- is daily from May to October. 600m reek boulders at the end of the beach. There are great views swamp. the right bank of South Zoe Creek. Boulder Reef Marine Park ($50) daily between April and October reek Bay Central Section through grass trees. past a lagoon. You may 50 site Continue southwest around a swampy shoulder your pack and head upstream to Wat get wet feet skirting this swampy area. an enormous brush-turkey mound on the appointment. paralleling the head of the falls. After a few to a slot in a rock slab. boggy. three per day 400 No 20 0 300 150 6 hours. mangrove-lined creek and look for per person for a minimum two people) by Mt Bowen (1121m) 100 DAY 2 Side Trip Island tions before returning to the main track. Cross sloping tidal creek. above ground at Nina Bay’s northern end. Ascend across a carpet of casuarina nee- granite slabs to the beach and hop over leads 50m through the scrub. Cross black. It’s hard to leave this spot. passing unusual granite monoliths tide-dependent and bookings are essential. Cross several shallow gullies before Bay Bays. on Mt Bowen dominates the skyline as you walk the camp site at South Zoe Creek. Continue uphill The track passes a massive paperbark. you’ll probably want k 4 hours. Follow its beauti. follow the Zoe Falls track 0 alm Cr THE WALK 65 450 Fan P Rainforest ble around a rocky headland to the next for about 15 minutes to a creek crossing. The gradient increases as you SIDE TRIP: BANKSIA BAY 0 ful shoreline to a marked track near granite 500 approach the ridge top.000 0 50m Contour Interval 0 2 miles 4 km reach a sheltered camp site on the southern the trail becomes indistinct. Nina ferry between George Point and Lucinda Peak (312m) Lookout Nina Bay Great Barrier across Ramsay Bay. a ridge. To collect water. lowing a rocky watercourse to Little Ram. Move of a rainforest.) Cross diagonally and head rocky pools. 600 850 75 Zoe Falls watercourse. This boulders to a small sandy patch. two boulder-filled creek beds on the way to FINISH Camp site Point Picnic rocky creek beds. then descend steeply gradient increases as you traverse more pink rocks to a track leading steeply up a to the ridge top. National Park a signed track leading to Banksia Bay.com. avoiding the tendrils of crossing it several times. 7. lichen-stained rocks and 0 650 15 100 10 relied upon.au) runs a Camp site Ocean exposed granite slab with sweeping views feeding on blue quandong berries.lonelyplanet. fol. highlight. The track parallels the creek. (Crocodiles have been ing. North Zoe Creek. on the left of a shallow 70 0 Camping banned 0 above or below falls your way to Ramsay Bay. Ignore a false trail 1 hour. Sweeping views across Zoe 500 200 Cross at 550 low tide Descend. The service 1 : 150. 10. climbing to a low ridge. nent creek is a good spot to cool off. mossy cliff before reaching a pool at of mangroves. beeches and paperbarks before orne Trail 550 650 Cardwell ($70. northern end of Boulder Bay. the start of a paperbark swamp. Follow the beach south to three 0 Mulligan Falls 0 continue uphill beside the creek to a saddle Day 3: Zoe Bay to Mulligan Falls 40 huge paperbarks flanking a track leading DAY 4 Sunken Reef dividing the watersheds of Banksia and Zoe 4½ hours. dles to a broad. Beach Side Trip 1½ hours return. beach is often brackish and shouldn’t be Creek. Continue across another service between Lucinda and Cardwell ($25 Bay Banksia Bay Agnes around the summit for views in all direc. Cross George plain dotted with paperbarks. (The unmarked track following a bouldery creek bed. At the southern end a ful Zoe Falls.com H I N C H I N B R O O K I S L A N D • • T h o r s b o r n e T r a i l 351 Marina at 9am and drop off or collect walkers Thorsborne Trail further upstream. two per day Friday. There are no Black Ramsay Sand Bay SIDE TRIP: NINA PEAK before reaching Cypress Pine Creek.5km emerging at Zoe Bay. casuarinas and tea.5km 850 ne C ree site. see the Side 30 Mt Straloch Creek Bay minutes of rock hopping. Water in a lagoon behind the 350 750 Creek the head of a permanent cascade in Banksia worth exploring this rocky beach. Continue climbing to the n 0 (922m) Trip opposite. where a knotted rope 45 0 800 l Mull i 0 Mulligan ga to Nina Peak leads southwest. nas and grass trees before emerging at the say Bay.) sharply left uphill. before descending to a camping Beach aptly named lawyer vines. but you may need to rock hop eastern bank. There’s plenty stringybarks before descending to Black. The Follow the coastline and scramble across through thin. 220m ascent most certainly hear the distinctive ‘wollack- 50 Hinchinbrook Wilderness Safaris (%4777 8307.

Take care on slippery casuarina needles NATIONAL PARK What to Bring return trip in one day is not recommended. boulder-choked Diamantina Creek. so carry PLANNING If you’re lucky to hit the summit in sun- ternates between rainforest and dry open a tide table and time your crossing. mystical mountain Carry enough food for an extra night. But climbing a 1622m mountain from near sea level is never easy. then test your fitness the track on the opposite bank. Across the Bellenden Ker Range. Continue downhill to a junction where a track leads to Sunken WOOROONOORAN walk. quickly. Bruce Hwy. Christie Palmerston.com www. nana farmer. may flit land’s tallest peak will say that exhilaration large Queenslander home. Sunmap’s 1:50. 131 Edith St) is the town’s camping enough from Mulligan Falls. Majuba Creek rises and falls very pushed by gold miners and adventurers One of the longest of its type in the world. rainforests. Explorer forest as you cross more gullies.qld.4km. bright butterflies. There are supermarkets in town. There When to Walk shine. in. Mulligan Guide (available from park offices) shows park before the rainforest canopy forces an Falls and a magic swimming hole is 100m ENVIRONMENT the route. and contrary Art Deco buildings. dm/r $20/25. It’s one of the last largish towns in tropical southern edge to the beach. www. as with a climb to Broken Nose. If you can’t complete the steep-sided ridge. but spend most of On the Bruce Hwy. overcomes fatigue. 20cm caterpillars and frogs. these male birds prefer yellows and Duration 2 days specialist. you’ll follow a route veyed 5. (This isn’t Leave the creek and climb southwest massifs blanketed by 140-million-year-old it’s easy to run out of daylight on the long possible if you’ve walked from the bus stop through open forest. the beach. rainforests grow from foothills to moun. tropical map Bartle Frere supplements the guide. they can appreciate Maps side trip to Broken Nose in four hours.codgelodge tangles of lawyer vine until you emerge at On a prettier note.com. 63 Rankin St. 83km south of Cairns. crossing a rocky creams. views from this 962m peak. Cross another muddy here: giant moths (some with 25cm wing.au. 100m descent our island continent was connected to QPWS Cairns (% 4046 6600. and Innisfail (right) St. as) has a camp kitchen and free eral more creeks.epa. pile higher than the other and joined by Falls car park.gov.innisfailtourism.qld.com. The best approach is to walk 3km to Big Veer right. cabins for 2 snaking across the surface. 1. turn left plete record of the evolution of plant life conditions. triangles. NEAREST TOWNS SIDE TRIP: SUNKEN REEF BAY tain summits. the panorama is awesome. while the Wet (October to March) is extremely hot and humid. Innisfail is predominantly a sugar town.6km along this jetty to ship-loaders.mangotreepark. This is a land of warm clothing and a good tent are essential. their time in the field. Descend past a balancing est peak. (with 8km road walk) barbecues. fore winding left and right. fourth-largest snake) thrive in the lush. www. way to attract a bird! Difficulty demanding SLEEPING & EATING proach the next creek and veer right around It’s not only plants that grow huge up Start/Finish Josephine Falls car park Just south of town. Rare orchids are a favourite – a sure Distance 19km creek bed. leads through rainforest.) There are often great There are good views across Mulligan Bay Fit.5km bower may be up to 3m high. The QPWS Bartle Frere Trail Frere the next day and return to the car and walk 40m to the camp site. .au) To visit this secluded bay littered with Gondwana. one .com. www. high above the creek. They build a bower of sticks. Jetty through the trees. then granite tor to a series of rocky steps. point and entrance to the camp site. Turn left complex web of life they support. unpowered/powered sites for 2 $22/25. windy and freezing lugged up from Big Rock Camp.2m over its length. Fuel stoves are mandatory. May through rainforest. %07 / pop 8530 and head east along an almost level track on earth.epa Innisfail visitor information centre (%4063 of the beach. Couche creek bed with a tangle of exposed tree roots spans). This easy low-tide crossing can rise to past you on the track. Nearest Towns Cairns (p331) and (%1800 008 789. ais).com WOOROONOORAN NATIONAL PARK •• Mt Bartle Frere 353 to cross Sweetwater Creek. mountain heath and an it dips 1.au). It also does meals. in a the beach. but anyone Codge Lodge (%0428 820 105. should be the first contact for current park Innisfail oddly-shaped driftwood pieces. Wet-weather gear. is run by a ba- Creek. hiking. Summary It’s steep and it’s tough. Rock Camp on Day 1. Leeches are always on the Bruce Hwy. If the lagoon is full. 900m. Raw sugar is con. diagonally upstream to locate a huge plus for walkers. Mourilyan. 352 W O O R O O N O O R A N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • E n v i r o n m e n t www. Northern Stock Supplies There’s no reliable water today. they contain an almost com. and attempting the Reef Bay. coconut palm marking the ferry pick-up recorded – check the conditions before back in 1886.000 topographic early sundown.gov. often forcing track closures. wild rivers and ancient. so collect to their southern cousins who decorate in MT BARTLE FRERE (%4061 1674. experienced bushwalkers are lured lurking (see the boxed text p335). The walk brochures listing the town’s famous 2½ hours. . Tropics region. water must be the broad. 1 hour. h9am-4pm Mon-Fri. 9am-3pm Sat & Sun) can supply Day 4: Mulligan Falls to George Point a branch forming a display perch. fer. 7. Then cross sev. follow its closed-canopy plants in the uplands. from Sweetwater Creek at the northern end occur only in rainforests at altitudes above two people) online with the QPWS (www. A clear track blue. Wind the Wet Tropics’ fragile ecosystems and the The well-defined track is marked by orange you’ll struggle to reach the summit of Bartle past more boulders to a junction. where and adventurer. QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND as the Thorsborne Trail heads downhill to Part of the World Heritage–listed Wet A sunny day at the bottom of the range can so if a high camp is planned.lonelyplanet. These boulders are treacherous when wet! haven that’s off the beaten tourist tracks – conditions at the top. Golden bowerbirds Book camping permits ($8 per night for and has an easy laid-back country charm. The forest opens as you ap. large-trunked plants phine Falls (%4067 6304). The bay makes Many plant and wildlife species are Permits & Regulations Queensland untouched by the tourist boom an ideal alternative camp site. was glimpses of Sunken Reef Bay and Lucinda you round the point.lonelyplanet. Collect water unique to the region. There’s no reliable water near Eastern Camp. who has experienced a fine day atop Queens. There are are great views of Mt Diamantina before This is Australia’s wettest place. beyond here. As a bonus. Today. Vegetation al. second day of the walk. There’s no camping at Josephine 2655. curvature of the earth.au. for a few minutes. then descend steeply to from the lowlands give way to stunted. avoiding thick tile conditions. separated by swamps be. Turn right and walk to Mulligan cluding the brilliant blue Ulysses. Large-leafed. scrub pythons up to 8m long (the world’s Transport private or bus from $80. Mango Tree Tourist Park a paperbark swamp. Wooroonooran is a remote often deteriorate to wet. Walk 200m to a lone annual rainfalls around 10m have been the first European to scale this lofty peak. www. Rangers are also based at Jose. Growing continuously since Information Sources See Cairns (p331). summit’s cloudy. following the to September is drier and the best time to extensive boulder field to the summit. even when the to the Palm Islands as you contour around a to Mt Bartle Frere to bag the state’s high. waist-height or worse at high tide.

com shallow gullies and head through a storm.traveltrain. it’s 10 minutes to well-earned rest. of delicacies from Australia and abroad to (%4059 2709. At a massive granite boulder.premierms 6 hours.au) travels daily from Cairns ($16. Views stretch across Russell River . After Bruce Hwy. 2km from the start. From Binna Burra (p339) section of Lam- 600 1200 1000 then winds uphill to crest a spur. southwest of Brisbane. Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99. resembling an ancient dining room. Barrier Reef and Wednesday) and Sunlander ($23. Remember. www. Continue up the Mt Barney ree ridge. 12km. sandwiches $6. Climb to the crest of the ridge another slog uphill. ridge and cross the boulder-choked bed of cool sea air whipping up the gully.000 0 50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile 2 km nitely required. is a bushwalker’s wa START/ Toilet To Bruce Hwy. via the same route. that lost its crown during a 2005 storm. The ridge narrows and the track low heath to the start of a massive lichen- For authentic Italian meals in a town off from Cairns or Innisfail ($14. 1¾ Follow the undulating spine of a narrow helmholtzia lilies. The track Daves Creek Circuit 350 0 10 7501200 Eastern Camp 700 climbs between boulders and a muddy bank. Have a . swinging from the canopy. Sunday huge boulders. a rainforest glade at Big Rock Camp. 41 Edith St. pizzas A bright. Thursday and Saturday). you should Mt Bartle Frere 1 : 70. 860m ascent. 3b Ernest St. .lonelyplanet.au) drops walkers at Josephine Falls turn.) A rough track leads left fare since 1930s. eastern edge of the ridge to a small col below from an exposed boulder to the left. through the boulders to a level spot on the hours). The near large orania palms. mains $12-16. Mon-Sat) has been serving European drive 8km to the trailhead. . 1¾ hours.com M O R E W A L K S • • S o u t h e a s t Q u e e n s l a n d 355 On Innisfail’s southern side. www.lonelyplanet. the track levels slightly It also has a restaurant and bar so you don’t GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK separating Kowadgi and Majuba Creeks. A myriad of bird calls complement the or lost bushwalkers. 3km from Follow an eroded path uphill through top pannini and lunch rolls. eucalypt forest and 0 45 600 and almost levels out. (This (%4061 3354. It’s the trailhead. the ney. high above the creek. thing flowering year-round. 7km. Tree roots crisscross have to go far! Josephine Falls car park is 75km south of blue egg-shaped fruit on the track is from the track as you approach drier forest. the start. allow 1½ hours to walk from camp to the 14 50 Walking track to 1350 1400 retrace your steps to the camp site. an exposed. 1100m ascent. Majuba Creek. mecca with some of Queensland’s toughest ree 25 0 Pric The climb is unrelenting until you reach routes. Continue uphill .au. It carries extensive ranges Mission Beach Dunk Island Connections sounds of the forest as you follow the ridge downhill to the exposed Eastern Camp. Care is defi. Gourka Gourka Camp Elevation Western Day 2: Big Rock Camp to Bartle Frere MORE WALKS 1250 1800 Camp Mt Bartle Frere Large 1100 Wooroonooran 1600 0 Summit & Josephine Falls Car Park National Park 40 Bartle Frere South Boulder Field 950 10 hours. hours. The crossings and you’ll have a great day. THE WALK sudden squall. www forest and leads uphill. In 50 years rock that’s a ‘surprise’ and a couple of creek k Camp 0 or so. cross the 0 800 Broken Nose creek and head steeply uphill. d FINISH Cairns & Innisfail gi C Car Park e Rd track swings left and continues uphill. After enjoying the views. Leave grey milkwood trees. The track Valley. From October to December. Cross a tributary of Continue uphill below a dense rainforest ridge top. The views are Queensland Rail (%13 22 32. eral lookouts with uninterrupted vistas of Jo s 200 look for a massive Johnson River satin ash on the Gold Coast’s hinterland and even a cave ep 90 500 0 hi ne DAY 2 70 0 1050 400 400 the right with roots from a strangler fig snak. centre. so make camp beside the the boulders where stumpy legs once strug- Day 1: Josephine Falls Car Park to Big permanent creek before setting out for Bro. then swings sharply right ing through rainforest. reaching a helipad on the ridge top. sunny day often ends with a stainless steel brackets have been bolted to and seafood. A signposted track leads steeply see striking red flowers of Australia’s only Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10. Climb steeply for a few minutes to (seven daily). flat rocky overhang with views land’s tallest mountain to Big Rock Camp.missionbeachdunkconnections. across Russell River Valley.com www. Tuesday.50. Cross stained boulder field. you may GETTING THERE & AWAY Rock Camp & Broken Nose ken Nose.com. From here. filled with and down Peasant’s. Ma Josephine Falls Exposed tree roots aid the climb when you jub 0 15 reek aC Wooroonooran National Park reach a steep 3m mud bank. hlunch & dinner). three hugs its spine. It passes ington National Park. as) is clean and tidy. 354 W O O R O O N O O R A N N AT I O N A L PA R K • • M t B a r t l e F re re www. car park. Add a Cr Big 0m 30 ee Rock 0km 5 0 10 15 ing their way down the trunk. From here it’s an 8km road slog to a jumble of mossy boulders to a clearing in the route but extreme care is required – es- 6888. making the walking open heathlands. Be warned – most rain. following the a clearing on the summit. There are sev- Josephine Falls Josephine Falls 950 Car Park Car Park After passing rounded granite boulders.barrierreefmotel.com to another storm-damaged area. before Family-owned Oliveri’s Continental Deli Cairns or 30km north of Innisfail. www. hbreak. you’re bound to see some- 750 400 3 50 pleasant. www. 460m descent uphill past the trunk of a stately red cedar native rhododendron.greyhound.com. You may cop a blast of Motel (% 4061 4988. pecially if the rocks are damp. 1500m descent SOUTHEAST QUEENSLAND 1050 Peak(1622m) 900 1400 Collect water for the return trip. and forest fruits are toxic in their natural state! has been used for several rescues of injured fast & lunch. taking care on tree roots crisscrossing You’ll need private transport but Mt Bar- k Rangers Ko House the track. Wind- 550 650 800 Big Rock Big Rock Big Rock 1150 Camp500 Camp Camp the creek bed. this 12km day walk is close to the edge where there are views into the park’s most botanically diverse. they will almost engulf this tree. Orange arrows define QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND with many Italians try Roscoe’s Piazza (%4061 daily). The classic circuit up Southeast Ridge k 100 a U-shaped gully on the right. 1¼ A well-defined track enters lowland rain.au) services stop on the way to and from damaged area before climbing between two Broken Nose. is one of the ‘easiest’. Cross several makes a distinct turn south.au) does the same route for $23 Majuba Creek and climb below liana vines canopy to crest the summit ridge. and then descend Queens- Cairns: Tilt Train ($35. Occasional licensed and specialises in pastas. the Bruce Hwy just south of Miriwinni. s/r $85/95. gled.com. Col- 85 Wankaroo C Broken 350 gradient lessens near the 4km point and the lect track maps from the visitor information Nose(962m) 450 narrow ridge drops off steeply on both sides.

lonelyplanet. It’s a spectacular don’t mind a bit of air and a tricky track. Walk-About Creek and Mts Nebo.‘Do the right thing with our content.au. walk. Navigation skills are essential. limits map. or resell it.com 357 but there’s no ‘easy’ way to scale this moun. In return. the distinctive the QPWS website (www. on Lake (p328). tropical (%5494 3983) for added info. mass email it to Gorge has walk details. The 17km day or overnight challenge ing Harrys camping area. Contact QPWS (%4046 6600. Sunmap’s 1:25. pair of camp sites at lagoons. The tea-tree stained river. and Mon-Fri) in Cairns or Wooroonooran Safaris leads through wallum heathland. to a picnic and camping area follows Eliza Fraser’s mainland route after at Goldsborough section of Wooroonooran she escaped from her Aboriginal captors National Park.30am-5pm Mullen car park on Rainbow Beach Rd. use Cootharaba. climb the city to park headquarters.qld. restricted. non-commercial purposes centre.epa. off-track adventure walks strolls to overnighters. QPWS (%4984 4505) at Carnarvon only. beside the Noosa starts and finishes at Yellow Pinch car park River.’ Glass House Mountains metres of the park – details are available on Near the Sunshine Coast. please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site.or three-day Get maps from QPWS information centre walk. is a canoers’ ests. .gov.qld. Commercial camp.au). this walk features towering sandstone of Brisbane. Bookings are essential. An oasis in the semiarid heart of Queens- est and eucalypt woodland 12km northwest land. An extensive leries for some of Australia’s best Aborigi- ranger-guided Go Bush program includes nal art. Battleship Spur is a and evening activities. Camping permits are required toral rainforest to Elanda Point. © Lonely Planet Publications 356 M O R E W A L K S • • S u n s h i n e C o a s t www. Mts Beerwah and Tibrogargan offer follows one of these routes between Queens- more challenging routes for walkers who land’s two highest peaks.com www. For track notes and maps contact Take A Walk book (p328). renowned and passes through woodlands and rainfor.qld. It starts at East www. access to this chapter is not digitally in Brisbane (p330) or the park information crossings) and camping at Big Bend. The Goldfield Trail walked. Next day. Frequent buses (Route 385) run from mits are required (p328). we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal. You can hire canoes here. It continues be- This easy three-day.lonelyplanet. h 8. There’s 21km of tracks from short full-day bushwalks. Bushwalkers THE WET TROPICS have been bagging Glass House summits Goldfield Trail for years but more recently rock climbing Prospectors and loggers followed Aboriginal is drawing crowds. starting at The Boulders Scenic Reserve Queensland’s Take A Walk book (p328) de.gov. and Samson sections. It’s best done as a two. QPWS (%5449 7364) at Elanda Point. Glorious that form spectacular steep-sided gorges. In other words. on Fraser Island (p341). rainforest to a saddle between the two peaks. following the main gorge (19 creek © Lonely Planet Publications. the above . and camping area near Babinda. Contact rangers at Maleny of Cairns. The trail continues through lit- good water. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying SUNSHINE COAST ing grounds are located within a few kilo. passing a (p330) for more information. per.gov. decked with palms and rainforests. before reach- tain. volcanic plugs of Glass House Mountains rise above coastal plains. 60km south tails most routes. trading routes through Bellenden Ker Range ing Mts Ngungun and Elimbah are easily in northern Queensland. 5b Sheridan St.au) is a huge expanse of rainfor.epa. Brisbane Forest Park CENTRAL HIGHLANDS QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND Brisbane Forest Park (%3300 4855. for its spectacular reflections. There’s a camp near the summit with paradise. Several peaks includ.brisbane Carnarvon Gorge forestpark. England Creek and Carnarvon Creek winds through the main Northbrook Gorge have day and overnight gorge where sandstone overhangs are gal- routes for experienced hikers.000 Mt Lindesay topographic Organise permits in advance (p328). 46km trail roughly side the river. to the spur. must. it descends to cross East Mulgrave River at Cooloola Wilderness Trail a popular swimming hole. To make it easier for you to use. everyone you know. The route is described in Queensland’s apply. Graded tracks lead through cliffs. www. Winding through lush.