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Holiday entertaining

Summer barbecues: the new grilled chicken,
cool coleslaws, fun iced treats & satay masterclass
COASTAL
FLAVOURS
MORNINGTON
PENINSULA’S
FINEST DINING
BALI LIKE
A LOCAL
THE BEST
STREET EATS

Chermoula
prawns

+
DRINK UP
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JANUARY 2015 $8.95 NZ $9.70

VINO &
PERFECT
MARGARITAS
GOOD GRILLING
HOW TO COOK BIG CUTS ON THE BARBIE FROM charcoal
lamb shoulder TO SPIT-ROASTED PORCHETTA

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teem with showy clouds of fish. Go large on the barbecue with the likes of spit-roast pork and T-bone 159 ACCESS MORE AREAS steaks of Flintstone proportions. 92 COMING UP ROSÉ Two Sydney fashion identities 138 THE LIFE AQUATIC launch their own wine at a sunny The pristine reefs of the Maldives seaside lunch. You can’t beat chicken for versatility 98 on the barbie – fragrant with spice or with a tangy Southern spin. WorldMags.net 11 . it all adds 146 MORNINGTON GLORY The eating and drinking offer on up to finger-lickin’ fun. 98 BIRD CALL Discover the best of both worlds. Bali is putting out the welcome mat to Australians with visa-free entry 122 FREEZE FRAME as soon as the new year ticks over. while above water all is serene and sybaritic. shares a taste of 156 ULURU RISING what he cooks in his own backyard. the Mornington Peninsula has never been better – just ripe for 106 SMOKIN’ ACE the summer holidays. luscious frozen layer cake – iced desserts have never been hotter. the master of wood-fired cooking. buttermilk soft-serve. Lennox Hastie.net CONTENTS January FOOD TRAVEL 84 LAY DOWN THE SLAW 132 BALI BITES No barbecue is complete without You haven’t eaten on Indonesia’s most coleslaw – we’ve crossed the globe for popular island until you’ve explored fresh takes on this summer essential. The spiritual heart of Australia is undergoing a transformation for 114 THE BIG PICTURE visitors and local communities. bold flavours found in the traditional warungs. Fruity icy-poles. the rich.WorldMags.

Travel style EVENT Midweek meals made in no time. 32 Gourmet online 80 Subscribe 72 Viva la Margarita See what we’re dishing up online. LuMi Bar & Dining delivers a one-two 69 Fruits of labour 23 Gourmet news punch with Italian-Asian food.AU WorldMags. 48 Pantry raider 170 Next month 78 A day at the races Making the most of your daily bread. 30 years in the life of Lake House. find anywhere in the country. Ice-cube trays. Chic pieces for beach holidays.net 98 138 36 January 57 Fergus’s table REGULARS Make it breakfast or lunch. Gourmet fast 168 Arts.CONTENTS WorldMags. drinking and dining in Bangkok. The joy of seeing your produce in the The latest from the food scene. What’s coming up in February. 70 My sense of place 30 Reader dinner 76 AA Gill is away Daylesford culinary pioneer Alla Join us as LuMi Bar & Dining AA Gill foresees a hard landing for Wolf-Tasker chronicles an incredible in Sydney.COM. Wine Bar join the thriving bar scene. Leading expats reveal the Aussie 20 Editor’s letter 63 Sydney review places and food they miss most. 176 Recipe index 52 Masterclass Plus our cook’s notes. says Paulette Whitney. Satay with peanut sauce. 36 Fare exchange 167 City hitlist 43 Chefs’ recipes you’ve requested. international travel. Plus this month’s contributors.net . FEATURES 59 Melbourne review 14 Perfect matches New players Persillade and Kirk’s 66 No taste like home Menus from this month’s issue. and cherry pie for Pete Evans. but never brunch. This potent Mexican cocktail seduced 34 Viewa 161 Travel news Colman Andrews from the first sip. The viewa app brings GT to life. 12 GOURMETTRAVELLER. Melbourne Cup. food and fanfare 50 Pete’s kitchen 175 Stockists from the Birdcage at this year’s Summer means squid on the barbie Plus our privacy notice. says Fergus Henderson. Receive three free issues. salted peanut caramel. 74 Drinks hands of a great cook makes all the 29 On the table Max Allen’s summer favourites you’ll effort worth it. All the finest fun. 178 Last bite 55 Grow your own Char-grilled banana split with Now’s the time for eggplant. Where to be and what to see.

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net menus JANUARY 2015 Not that you need an excuse for a barbecue. too: a powerful. a grapy. the little popping blueberry This menu’s a delicious jangle of Now that Barossa Pearl is back – explosions. but we’ve got three right here. sweetness of the beef. rich American drinks that can handle the 1950s and ’60s – you’d be mad Barossa shiraz to match the adventure. ripeness of a pinot gris from Oregon. the gutsy spice of a along with other Oz classics such sherbety moscato to chase the Californian zinfandel. Choose drinks with big textures and tastes. An ice-cold Mexican not to serve it with this retro menu. Valley and a grenache rosé. DRINK SUGGESTIONS MAX ALLEN 38 128 88 NEW YEAR’S EVE SOUTH AMERICAN. PICTURED) Lots of bold flavours here: the sweet smokiness of the eggplant C C and onion.PERFECT MATCHES WorldMags. lager. the peachy as cold riesling from the Clare grilled fruit and ice-cream. 14 GOURMETTRAVELLER. the tartness of the slaw.net . with menus and drinks to match.AU WorldMags. PICTURED) Anzac golden syrup ice-cream C Jicama slaw (RECIPE P90) sandwiches (RECIPE P128. so choose the sweet sparkling Aussie icon of flavours. PICTURED) avocado and soft tacos dandelion (RECIPE P112) (RECIPE P105) Buttermilk ice-cream with Classic egg and potato salad grilled blueberries (RECIPE P109) Bife ancho with chimichurri (RECIPE P47) (RECIPE P38. crushed roasted peppers and grilled Italian slaw (RECIPE P88. AUSTRALIA DAY BARBECUE FOR SIX STYLE BARBECUE BARBECUE Barbecued tenderloin with Grilled Pisco Sour (RECIPE P108) Chermoula prawns (RECIPE P47) charred onion and eggplant (RECIPE P117) Smoky chilli chicken with Grilled lamb rump with barbecued corn.COM.

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EDITOR
Introducing the Anthea Loucas
Deputy Editor Pat Nourse

new Transtherm FOOD
Food & Style Director Emma Knowles

‘Prestige’ Range Senior Food Editor Lisa Featherby
Food Editor Jerrie-Joy Redman-Lloyd
Food Editor-at-Large Alice Storey
Contributing Food Editors Rodney Dunn & Brigitte Hafner

ART
Art Director Anna Vu
Deputy Art Director Brooke Donaldson
Senior Designer Meng Koach
Pre-press Manager Chris Halden

COPY
Chief Subeditor Toni Mason
Deputy Chief Subeditor Krishna Mathrubutham
Subeditors Suzanna Chriss, Scott Coomber
Staff Writer Maya Kerthyasa
Editorial Coordinator Maggie Scardifield

WEBSITE
Online Producer Robert Maniaci

CONTRIBUTORS
Catherine Adams (food); Max Allen (wine); Guy Dimond (London);
Fiona Donnelly (Brisbane); Sue Dyson & Roger McShane (Hobart);
George Epaminondas (Los Angeles); AA Gill (travel); Michael Harden
(Melbourne); Fergus Henderson (columnist); Kendall Hill (senior writer);
Rob Ingram (senior writer); Rosa Jackson (Paris); Eliza O’Hare
(travel news); Mat Pember (gardening); Damien Pignolet (food);
Emma Sloley (New York); David Sly (Adelaide); Will Studd (cheese);
Tony Tan (food); Max Veenhuyzen (Perth)
Interns Christina Gee, Laksha Prasad, Georgia Swanborough,
Isabella Waugh
Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia
phone +61 2 9282 8758
email askgourmet@bauer-media.com.au
website gourmettraveller.com.au

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*compared to previous range, based on room temperature of 25°C.

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A boat on a river in Kerala. To know more, visit www.incredibleindia.org or contact
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so many barbecues. served ON THE COVER Chermoula prawns (page 47) Chermoula prawns with aïoli) are simply elegant in their Recipe Lisa Featherby Styling Emma Knowles simplicity. There’s post-Christmas exhaustion to nurse. NSW. Long days are spent at the beach and long nights at laid-back dinners PLATES OF THE MONTH with friends. either. and drawing Veyrat.net I hear the snow’s great in Aspen. and line up an icy beer. PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT (LENNOX HASTIE) & STEPHEN BINGHAM (TOM BINGHAM) Now all you need is a novelty apron and you’re set. Qld. and I can understand WHAT WE’RE the allure of a tropical getaway to somewhere EATING like Phuket. And Cobram Estate and Infiniti Cars. cool coleslaws.” Read all about it on page 132. and Max Allen lists his top-10 easy summer drops.COM. chef David Moyle Holiday entertaining and the team have made Franklin Summer barbecues: the new grilled chicken. Tas. Some dishes are BALI LIKE A LOCAL THE BEST STREET EATS deceptively simple-seeming. (07) 3160 3123 FIONA DONNELLY LAMB RACK AND MINT SAUCE If you’re spending your summer holidays on the Mornington Peninsula. so did at Etxebarri. let’s not forget that fresh scoop of young-coconut sorbet with sake. DRESSING AND GRILLED CHICKEN To ensure your barbie is the best in the street. Photography William Meppem Merchandising Bhavani Konings Hobart. 30 Argyle St. I get to illustrate always keeps me on my toes. are revealed on page 72. this year supported by the limelight last time I was in.EDITOR’S LETTER WorldMags.” (and now internationally but travelled back to A graduate of Illustration acclaimed) asador in the the island to revisit her and Animation studies at Basque mountains. Franklin. no time. others (such as these juicy molluscs. but when it comes to January holidays. kaffir lime. fun iced treats & satay masterclass one of the wish-list eateries of Anthea Loucas COASTAL FLAVOURS MORNINGTON PENINSULA’S FINEST DINING the moment. Get a taste on page 106. (02) 8068 8279 Happy January. sultanas for a start). The variety of articles for the backyard barbie. our food team has pulled This jumble of deliciousness is the together a cracker collection of recipes that will have you firing up the coals in perfect antidote for the summer heat: a mix of banana blossom with ginger. “These places are real local pieces by AA Gill and Max Allen. Ester. Stone fruit and figs are to be savoured and there are barbecues to BANANA FLOWER WITH SWEET AND SOUR COCONUT host – oh. In this issue his work accompanies restaurant in Sydney. has compiled a rollcall of the latest and highlights but it was a perfectly greatest food experiences for your dining pleasure and. See pages 25 and 62 for more information. “I love illustrating adapted some of his ideas and techniques for us haunts – I’ll be in a bit of trouble for letting the for Gourmet Traveller. raised on a steady diet school went from being but it was during the five of sambal. ham leftovers to dig into and the tennis on the telly to get OUR FAVOURITE invested in. I hope you’ll pink rack of lamb paired with a punchy mint sauce that stole join us at our second pop-up restaurant in Red Hill. but in the meantime he has Indonesia. In March he’ll open Firedoor. we get cooking with fire guru Lennox Hastie (page 106) lemongrass among them. (03) 6234 3375 +DRINK UP VACATION VINO & PERFECT PAT NOURSE MARGARITAS GOOD GRILLING CONTRIBUTORS HOW TO COOK BIG CUTS ON THE BARBIE FROM charcoal lamb shoulder TO SPIT-ROASTED PORCHETTA LENNOX HASTIE MAYA TOM BINGHAM Lennox Hastie trained KERTHYASA Tom Bingham was born with the élite likes of Marc Our Bali-born staff writer a doodler. but I think Bali has University. Chippendale.” she says. (page 84 – I’ll be making the Italian number with Sherry and vincotto-soaked shallots and herbs – coriander. We share new ideas for barbecued chicken (see page 98) and coleslaws chillies. smoked duck a pastime to a vocation. Bingham has been drawing for GT with fire. Fortitude Valley. Raymond Blanc Maya Kerthyasa was on his notebooks at and Martin Berasategui. a new some of the tastiest and most interesting food in since 2012.AU WorldMags. years he spent cooking and suckling pig. for me nothing compares to an Aussie summer. a lime-spiked chilli and coconut The secrets to making perfect Margaritas – the ultimate warm-weather tipple – dressing. of course. She “As I grew older. my love for illustration. Longtime Restaurant & Bar. word out.net . toasted coconut. 46-52 Meagher St. our A meal at Ester comes with many Melbourne editor.” 20 GOURMETTRAVELLER. Toss with and present fun icy desserts (page 122). 610 Ann St. “I might be biased. that favourite local eateries for Manchester Metropolitan he found his true calling in the kitchen: cooking this issue. MAYA KERTHYASA STEAMED PERIWINKLES Armed with a Scotch oven and an interest in the lesser-seen fishes of Tasman waters. a small now lives in Sydney. Vietnamese mint. crisp garlic. Michael Harden.

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$50) are merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes RESTAURANTS to hyper-specific grill accessories Out of Africa at Williams-Sonoma stores.” Africola. “It’s going to be out there. has conjured a bold look embracing an informal party vibe. gourmetlife. designer James Brown of graphic design mildly bonkers “Ice Cream Sandwich” pool studio Mash. Dutch and several African tribes among them. Smoke.com.au bring a new taste of Africa to Australia.” The large fire pit in & PETER TARASIUK (AFRICOLA) Africola’s open kitchen produces everything from boerewors sausage and potjie to spiced spit-roasted kid basted in goat’s milk.com.” says Welgemoed. 4 East Tce Adelaide. a Welgemoed family recipe. Malaysian. a Johannesburg signature. “It’s a revered Zulu privilege. FOOD CULTURE DINING DESIGN EDITED BY PAT NOURSE These “Finial” skewers ($6 each). Portuguese. “This is food I’ve cooked my entire life for my family. float ($55) from Melbourne-based retailers Welgemoed (who also runs Bistro Dom) has embraced cherished favourites cooked Third Drawer Down brings new meaning to the by his chef father and mother. SA.” He’s tipping the peri peri chicken.com. and the allegaartjie potjie with Mpumalanga fire. but I can’t imagine we’ll be selling a million of them.FIRE EATERS gourmet NEWS WorldMags. africola.net Africola co-owners chef Duncan Welgemoed (left) and designer James Brown.net 23 . to be the most popular item thanks to a potent chilli sauce he calls “Mpumalanga fire”. JK Adams barbecue board ($90) and lidded mesh chef’s pan (perfect for vegetables. as well as culinary influences from South Africa’s wealth of cultures. flame and ash from a big fire pit infuse the modern African menu at Adelaide newcomer Africola. Chef Duncan Welgemoed has drawn on PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW FINLAYSON (WILLIAMS-SONOMA & CHIPS) his South African heritage to create “a serious eating house and shebeen”. Duncan Welgemoed fires up the braai to williams-sonoma. while his business FLOATING ASSET Reminiscent of the mighty Monaco Bar.au WorldMags.” he says. “To do this in a restaurant is something I’ve been yearning for.au DAVID SLY THE FANCIEST CHIPS IN TOWN What more barbecue-friendly way to dip into the ange of deluxe Balearic salt products by Sal de Ibiza than with these chips ($7 for 125gm)? heck out the full line at Sydney providore Gourmet Life. Indian. “The whole roasted cow’s head is a show-stopper. (08) 8223 3885. this partner.

mini bars offering rum. Mea Culpa’s Gin Old Fashioned red gum stirring spoon. Notts Timber Design When Bendigo-based Susannah and Sommerville Monotti bought their first house. RODNEY MACUJA (SIGNATURE was on the ground at my dad’s property at Euroa. started sending people up asking for a Gin Old-Fashioned. then add large ice cubes and Culpa uses a dash each of Regans’ Orange stir down another 40ml or 50ml of gin. Which is why spatulas (left to right) in Tasmanian blackwood. orange in an Old Fashioned glass.au MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD > Clockwise from left: blackheart sassafras wok spoon. Grains vary depending on the age of the tree or where it grew. so they made one. teaspoons (left to right) in Whiskey is of course the classic Old Fashioned base. they didn’t have a table. +64 9 376 4460 > Place a large piece each of lemon. we’ve just been able to get our first pick: big red-gum boards with beautiful. chopping boards. Do you use a lot of salvaged wood? Six years ago we started milling the old red gum that OTOGRAPHY ANDREW FINALYSON (GRILL). but we’ve seen no shortage of blackheart sassafras. Stockists p175. each item hand-cut in their garden shed from blackwood. people want to rub their hands along the top and feel what it’s like to pick up. three sugar against the peel with a spoon to dashes of bitters and a splash of gin (Mea dissolve it. WorldMags. All other props stylist’s own. crush the and grapefruit peel. blackheart sassafras mini spatula. red gum salad bowl. red gum and Huon pine. Tasmanian You won’t be sorry you gave this variation on the classic a try. Dip bowl (with sugar) from West Elm. cocktail bar Mea Culpa. too. SIGNATURE DRINK nottstimberdesign. natural edges.net COCKTAIL Dorset crystal Old-Fashioned glass from Williams-Sonoma. Angostura bitters and Bittermen’s a splash of amontillado. mix well. tequila. How do you choose your timber. 3/175 Ponsonby Rd.com WorldMags. blackwood paddle board. we thought he was having blackheart sassafras salad servers. and Citadelle Réserv SMALL FRY For those very small but elegant barbecues make Chef’s Armoury’s charcoal-fired Hida Ko grill ($58) your first ch chefsarmoury. Notts Timber Design’s kitchenware from $35. JOHN LAURIE (POP-UP DISH & AVANI). Huon pine spatula. Auckland. New Zealand. salvaged Huon pine.net . These days that same table is piled high with smaller offerings such as wooden spoons.” says barkeep Timothy Martin. us on.com. Huon we couldn’t resist the offer of the gin version that’s a staple at leading Auckland craft pine and red gum. A moat or a groove to rest a steak on is a common request. a sugar cube. blackheart sassafras and other Tasmanian timbers. Each timber has a different feel and MEA CULPA’S GIN OLD FASHIONED a different smell. Ponsonby. add Bitters.” Mea Culpa. MEET YOUR MAKER Tam dip bowl (with fruit) from Country Road. but it’s a delicious drink. “When Peter Lowry from Hawthorn Lounge in Wellington Tasmanian blackwood teaspoon. What makes a good chopping board? NK) & PABLO MARTIN (DINOSAUR DESIGNS) STYLING AIMEE JONES (SIGNATURE DRINK) It’s very personal. bowls and salad servers. Susannah? When you go into a mill and you’re surrounded by wood it’s very special. so we always look for slabs with the most distinct markings. “Turns out he was. Scotch and Cognac variations on the theme. After five years of air-drying. garnish Boston Bittahs.

tri-tip and the more interesting cuts. zucchini. chef Brigitte Hafner. peach and amaretto ($105). “It’s all about long lunches and awesome wines. mint and wild fennel salad.au WHAT’S GOING ON YOUR GRILL? Our chefs love flank. See you there.com. dinosaurdesigns. lunch prix fixe $65.” says Gertrude Street’s Present that salad with rare style in James Broadway. Dean Angelucci.com.net HOLIDAY EATS GT making more pop-up magic Join team GT for lunch on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula as we join forces with Gertrude Street Enoteca and Avani Winery. are helping dress the site. kale or For more advice from our radicchio.” Expect genuinely produce-driven Dinosaur Designs’ new Atelier bowl dishes in the style of spaghetti with mussels. chilli. For a classic Ask the Experts team. (Grill the peppers first so you HUGH can rest them. skirt. WENNERBOM. Last January we got together with chef Brigitte Hafner and our friends from Melbourne’s Gertrude Street Enoteca to present a pop-up eatery at Avani Winery at Red Hill in Victoria. but with a more pronounced Italian flavour courtesy of guest chef Francesco Rota. ASK Her friend Lisa Gorman and her husband. covered. red EXPERTS Street. or at gourmettravellermag@ even bitter leaves such bauer-media. finish them on fruit cheeks cut-side the flat plate so you can down. Butter the four minutes. but recent research by the Meat and Livestock Association has found that the most popular steak in Australia is rump. then slip off the skins. bigger PLATE CLASS and better. roast ($380) with Long Dew servers suckling Berkshire pork with apple. zucchini and pangrattato. T-bone and porterhouse. too.au.com. a native of Modena and a veteran of Da Noi and Tea Rooms of Yarck. It’s very simple – you just come.” And it’s made possible capsicum. well done. gourmet NEWS WorldMags. beefandlamb.com.au WorldMags. and we had such a good time we thought we’d do it again. grill sliced gourmettraveller. fennel. let it foam start them on the a little over a moderate char-grill side of the heat. Gertrude spring onions and Street Enoteca at Avani Winery presented by Gourmet Traveller.com. we feed you and it’s fun. A job before they’re done. Simply lube and tongs to grill apricots. cherry tomatoes. If you hot plate. “Dean’s bringing stylish furniture from his shop. followed by Scotch fillet. some garlic and basil leaves in a mortar.” says Hafner. add gnocchi with pigeon is all very well. easy. with the kind support of Cobram Estate and Infiniti Cars. “It’s very much a collaboration of creative people. then place the barbie. Drizzle with toss them with chopped kithul treacle or maple garlic 30 seconds or so syrup and serve. Try this method with +Got a question for beans. Avani Winery Well. snow peas and our experts? Email us sugar snaps. season the spears then peaches. “Brigitte just cooks with whatever great produce she finds. Get back on the at Red Hill. nectarines and grill ’em for three or mangoes. then add olive oil and a dash of Sherry vinegar. Hugh. Angelucci 20th Century in Smith THE eggplant.net 25 . and Lisa will be bringing her gorgeous prints and colour. as chicory. For details and bookings. fresh basil and dress ragù from last year’s but what about the veg? the lot with the basil menu. visit gertrudeenoteca. asparagus is too oil. visit warm salad.) PRODUCE GUY Toss the vegetables TOP OF THE POPS Clockwise from far left: All this meat on the grill together in a bowl.au trifle and other favourites from last season. Bash Wed-Sun from 4-31 January.

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Melbourne’s Cookie.

ON THE PASS
Karen Batson, Cookie
After 12 years in business, what keeps the crowds coming back to Cookie?
We see it as an extension of your home. Both the space and the menu are really welcoming, which
attracts a good mixture of people and a great energy.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR (ON THE PASS), ANDREW FINLAYSON
Melbourne in summer can really bake – what’s your go-to to beat the heat?
A simple green mango salad with lemongrass, peanuts, mint, coriander, Thai basil and dried
anchovies. And for dessert, tapioca pudding topped with either lychees or mango ice-cream.

(BOOK), WILL HORNER (PRODUCERS) & ROB SHAW (TEA)
Summer. A time to get Or panna cotta with lime, strawberries and fresh basil. That’s not very Thai, but I love it.
out and about for great What have been your most memorable adventures travelling in Thailand?
Travelling with the Thais on their home turf and being the only farang there. It involved driving for
family fun. Enjoy the an hour, and then another hour by long boat to a restaurant on sticks over the water. We ate oysters
best of Melbourne’s
STYLING AIMEE JONES (PRODUCERS)
the size of your palm and curried soft-shell crab.
How does the Cookie team celebrate when it gets a bit of time off?
summer at our city’s heart We are very much a big Thai family, so we always get together and have a barbecue on New Year’s
– Fed Square. Day. Especially in hospitality, that time to stop work and enjoy some good food and good, relaxed
company yourself is very important. There’s always lots of beer and whisky.
What about the morning after the night before – what’s your hangover survival menu?
Browse fedsquare.com Fried chicken, green papaya salad and sticky rice, and roti bread with condensed milk and banana.
Cookie, level 1, 252 Swanston St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9663 7660, cookie.net.au
to plan your visit. MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD

HI, TEA The Seventh Duchess Daydreamer line,
ended with coconut, mango or lime ($16.95/100gm),
is as summery as tea gets. theseventhduchess.com

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gourmet NEWS
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PRUNE IN PRACTICE
Laid out like a restaurant-
kitchen recipe binder, Gabrielle
Hamilton’s Prune (Random
GET OUR
LATEST PICKS
HOT
OF THE BEST
House, hbk), named for her IN AUSTRALIAN
brilliant East Village bistro, EATING Our restaurant critics’ picks
Use the free viewa app of the latest and best eats,
is, in a word, uncompromising. and scan this page to updated weekly on
Priced $75 from Books for get the lowdown on the our website:
newest restaurants on gourmettraveller.com.au
Cooks. booksforcooks.com.au your mobile device.

THE PRODUCERS
MELBOURNE ADELAIDE
Disaster Bay chillies Shane Delia closes his CBD
restaurant Maha on New
Another Adelaide laneway
will soon come to life
Two chilli fanatics and a pristine coastal environment combine
Year’s Eve to give the thanks to contemporary
to make for some cracking piquant products.
place an extensive (and French wine bar La
WHO Stuart Meagher and John Wentworth have been farming chillies near Eden expensive) overhaul. The Buvette. Due to open in
on the far south coast of New South Wales since 1999. Their initial intention was to reno, courtesy of architects Gresham Street in early
grow enough to make a chilli wine, but they now sell a range of other chilli products, Mills Gorman, will see the February, it’s owned by
including a smoked jalapeño sauce, an Indian chutney and a chilli wine jelly. number of seats increased, Frenchman Dominique
HOW Up to a dozen varieties, from the mild Anaheim to the fiery habanero and a smaller bar plus a new Lentz, who managed
naga, are grown over three south coast farms with different frost, heat and rainfall mezze bar. The new-look Sydney café Le Petit
characteristics, to spread the risk of crop failure. More than two tonnes of organic Maha will open in February. Crème for six years, before
chillies are harvested every autumn, then processed and cooked at a small factory TOKYO shifting to Adelaide with
in nearby Eden. Fish? No problem. But his Adelaide-born wife,
fish and chips in Tokyo? Hayley. Expect local and
WHY They grow so many chilli varieties, says Meagher, to “create a balance between
A trickier question. Or at imported wines, plus
flavour, colour and heat” in their products. The peppers are also left on the bush to
least it was until the arrival cheese, charcuterie,
fully ripen and develop before picking. “I appreciate the heat from chillies but I also of Malins, a Roppongi escargots, rillettes and
appreciate good flavour. You can’t have one without the other,” he says. eatery that specialises in pâtés galore.
WHERE Disaster Bay Chillies products are available from food retailers, delicatessens trad British-style battered SAN FRANCISCO
and butchers around Australia, and online. disasterbaychillies.com ALICE MOFFITT cod, not just with chips, Aster, the new restaurant
but mushy peas to boot. from Daniel Patterson (the
PERTH chef best known for his
CHILLIES Textured dip bowl As far as venue descriptors work at Coi), has several
from West Elm. All other props go, “secession-themed interesting twists, but the
stylist’s own. Stockists p175. bars” is probably one of the one that’s creating the
smaller pigeonholes you’ll most buzz is its refusal
encounter. But as eccentric of tips. Instead, says
as The Dominion League’s Patterson, the usual 15 per
back-story might be, its cent gratuity will be built
charms are as clear as day. into the cost of the food.
The great drinks. The
well-pitched service. The
snappy design (modern up
top; retro Australiana in the
basement). Garnish the lot
with great bar snacks from
former Pata Negra chef
and Greg Malouf offsider
Kurt Sampson and you’re
looking at this summer’s
place to be.
SHANE DELIA
DISASTER BAY
CHILLIES
WorldMags.net 27

WorldMags.net
MELB FOOD WINE FEST
The 23rd Melbourne Food and Wine Festival presented by Bank of Melbourne will reach new frontiers of flavour in 2015. Grab your
fork and your glass and venture forth upon an epicurean expedition to Melbourne’s first-rate food and wine venues, featuring the world’s
most celebrated culinary provocateurs and vinous revolutionaries, over 17 inspiring days. Here’s a taste of this year’s highlights,
where you’re bound to discover something new.

LANGHAM MELBOURNE MASTERCLASS – THE ESSENTIALS

Featuring:
Advanced Mixology with Matthew Bax (Trink Tank, Melbourne)
On the Board with Tammi Jonas (Jonai Farms, Eganstown)
Blessed are the Cheesemakers with Richard Thomas, pictured (Melbourne)

Date: Sat 7 Mar, Sun 8 Mar Where: The Langham, Melbourne
Time: 10.00am – 5.00pm Price: $50

RETURN TO TERROIR

Inspired by traditional techniques and the natural soil temperaments, Return To
Terroir stands at the forefront of the global biodynamic wine movement. Soak up
insights from a coalition of winemakers devoted to the distinctive flavours produced
by their natural environmental factors – ‘terroirs’. In this extraordinary session you’ll
sample creations from more than 40 of the world’s leading biodynamic winemakers.

Date: Sat 28 Feb, Sun 1 Mar Where: Melbourne Town Hall
Time: 12.00pm – 6.00pm Price: $65 incl. Riedel glass

ACQUA PANNA PERFECT MATCH

Wine writer Matt Skinner moderates six sessions marrying food and wine flavour
profiles. Highlights include William Downie (Thousand Candles, Yarra Valley) and
Victor Liong (Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne) combining reworked Chinese classics with
inventive wine matching in Renegade Masters; and Stephen Pannell (winemaker,
SC Pannell Wines, McLaren Vale) pairing up with John Susman (pictured, managing
director, Fishtales, Sydney) to think “outside the shell” in Shellfish Synergy.

Date: Sat 28 Feb, Sun 1 Mar Where: Melbourne Town Hall
Time: 10.00am – 2.30pm Price: $ 85 per session

TICKETS ON SALE NOW
melbournefoodandwine.com.au/agt

Government Partner Gastronomy Partners

WorldMags.net Prices exclude booking fee.

2 Shot glass ice tray. WorldMags. from Donaldson Enterprises. from Williams-Sonoma. $14. Stockists p175. from Sunny Life. $27.95 7 for a set of two. 9 Joseph Joseph 8 Quicksnap ice-cube tray. 8 Tovolo King Cube ice tray.95. 4 Moustache novelty ice mould. $1.95. from Ikea.95. 7 Joie ice-cube tray with lid.95. # WorldMags. from The Bay Tree. $16.net ON THE TABLE Ice-cube trays Give the clink in your glass some extra class. 3 Suck UK Frozen Peas ice-cube maker. $16.95 for set of two. 1 3 2 4 5 6 9 1 Tovolo Perfect Cube ice tray. from Donaldson Enterprises. $9. $20 for a set of two. from Top3 by Design. 6 Pineapple ice tray.net 29 . $19. $24. from PHOTOGRAPHY RODNEY MACUJA STYLING AIMEE JONES Sunny Life. 5 Plastis ice-cube tray. from David Jones.

AU WorldMags. NSW. buttermilk and chives. and pig jowl with pickled Lazio kale. For more on the OCRF.” he says. Friuli with a smart selection of French and Italian wines. “You say ‘Italian’ in Sydney. The wild ride continues with cream. left to right: at LuMi Bar & Dining. an alumnus of Mosman modern-Italian powerhouse Ormeggio. But * Cheddar with olive emulsion don’t expect to find Nonna’s meatballs on the menu * Rice chips with salt and vinegar at LuMi Bar & Dining. pear and buckwheat. complemented by S. has opened on Pyrmont wharf. spaghetti.” * Sand crab. Federico Zanellato. and swaps the dashi and kombu base for parmesan consommé.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna mineral waters. glass. and finishes it with a dusting * Stinging nettle chitarra with mussel of porcini powder. has matched the dishes Zamò Rosso cabernet blend. Pyrmont. LuMi Bar & Dining Coffee-bean Americano Federico Zanellato is poised to expand your Italian-food horizons. Loire Valley kitchen takes the classic Japanese steamed custard.COM. Michela. call LuMi on (02) 9571 1999. kicks off with a killer combo: the Blanc. crisp pork Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation.READER DINNER WorldMags. buttermilk and chives This month’s reader dinner. chitarra-cut nettle Falesco “Et Me!” sangiovese blend. citrus zabaglione with onto the road less travelled. pizza and meatballs. cherries and balsamic vinegar Join us for dinner at 7pm on Monday 19 January Brachetto d’Acqui. cherries and balsamic vinegar closes * Pig jowl with pickled kale. Join us for a spaghetti- bending ride at the new LuMi on Sydney’s Pyrmont Bay. # 30 GOURMETTRAVELLER. You won’t regret it. 56 Pirrama Rd. Sanpellegrino waters and a $10 donation to the nettle spaghetti with mussel cream. The cost of $120 per person includes wines by the LuMi Bar & Dining. So step away from the spag-Bol and * Milk ice-cream. spaghetti with mussel cream. chawanmushi.” Borgo Molino Prosecco. Treviso says Zanellato. “Fusion sounds outdated. call 1300 OVARIAN or visit ocrf. For bookings.net .com. the restaurant Zanellato. pear proceedings on a high note. “but strong and interesting flavour combinations are not. Piedmont NEW ORDER Above. in association with Domaine du Salvard “Unique” Sauvignon Fine Dining Lovers. crisp pork and fennel pollen sand crab.au.net CONTACT Scan this page with the free viewa app to contact the restaurant and make your booking. and buckwheat Zanellato’s wife. Italian remix It’s Italian but not as we know it. * Parmesan churros and most of the time people think about favourites like lasagne. Milk ice-cream with citrus WORDS MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW zabaglione. and fennel pollen. the team * Chawanmushi likes to shake up tradition.

com WorldMags. every day. with feature articles. Whether you are an expert gourmand or curious foodie.’ the process responsible for its signature dark red. white-veined leaves. chef interviews. In 1860 a Belgian agronomist brought to Italy a technique known as ‘whitening. recipes and blogs.net . Fine Dining Lovers tells a story a day.net [radicchio] Its cultivation began in the 15th Century in the Italian regions of Veneto and Trentino. finedininglovers. videos. WorldMags. Discover it now.

CONNECT WITH GOURMET TRAVELLER Get your daily fix of breaking news. to name a few. and Wine Bar and chef Lennox Hastie Persillade) talks to us about the EASTERN STANDARD Spice up your snacks with and Sydney kicks of cooking these Asian-flavoured eats. GT recipes bundled + to go in our Gourmet Fast app for your THE BIG EASY iPhone from the Go large on the Apple App Store.net Gourmet plus We’re dishing up more of the good stuff on your tablet. Grab speedy almonds. SIDE ORDERS Ditch the usual big green salad for sides such as minty potato and pea FINGER-LICKIN’ GOODNESS Get the GT Fast salad. barbie with cuts to feed a crowd: lamb legs.AU WorldMags.GOURMET ONLINE WorldMags. Melbourne (Kirk’s (recipe page 47). granitas and slushies on our website. and Japanese pork ribs to Korean zucchini pancakes. HOT suckling pigs and fish. iPad extras VIDEO the pineapple updated weekly on jerked pork neck our website: + Full menus Emma Knowles gourmettraveller. beef. with fire.com.net .COM. barbecued corn Nothing says summer like chicken on the grill. from Indonesian spring rolls (LuMi) reviews. phone and online.AU ICE ICE BABY From passionfruit and pineapple ice to mango slushies with rum and mint – you’ll be chilling out in no time with more than 30 recipes for ices.COM. from bonus recipes and breaking news to videos and photo galleries. our favourite recipes and more by following GT online. iPhone buttermilk and smoked including a Hawaiian huli-huli and a Thai lemongrass version. and app for your or coleslaw with with two dozen barbecue chicken recipes online. you’ll be busy with your tongs till autumn. Check out Our restaurant critics’ picks of the latest and best eats.au and contact makes the chermoula with crushed details from our prawns on our cover pineapple relish. gourmetpins gourmettraveller @gourmettweets gourmettraveller +gourmettraveller 32 GOURMETTRAVELLER. online exclusives. THIS MONTH AT GOURMETTRAVELLER.

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IN THIS ISSUE
Scoop Check out our restaurant critics’ hot new picks – before they’re in print. Turn to page 27.
Shop Keep it quick and easy. See page 44 for a shopping list for our Gourmet Fast recipes or
to pick up our Gourmet Fast App with up to 140 recipes.
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and Kirk’s Wine Bar, Melbourne, on page 60, and LuMi Bar & Dining, Sydney, on page 64.
Book Secure your place at this month’s reader dinner at LuMi Bar & Dining, Sydney, on page 30.
Watch Emma Knowles makes the chermoula prawns on our cover (see recipe page 47), chef
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GERARD’S BISTRO Coal-grilled octopus with smoked butter and almonds.CHEFS’ RECIPES WorldMags. chilli and green strawberries PORTEÑO Bife ancho with chimichurri BLUEBONNET BARBECUE Tea-smoked ocean trout with grilled peach salad NEWMARKET HOTEL Tahitian lime pie with passionfruit sorbet Porteño’s bife ancho with chimichurri (RECIPE P38) WorldMags.net .net Fare exchange Recipes you’ve requested from Australia’s leading restaurants.

Grey shallow Dapple vinyl wallpaper from Emily Ziz Style Studio. Chair from Life Stockists p175. Plant and hanger bowl from Mud Australia. TROUT Placemat and Interiors. Concrete WorldMags.net . Blue glass from Dear September. Bluebonnet Barbecue’s tea-smoked ocean trout with grilled peach salad (RECIPE P40) WorldMags. from Terrace. Koskela.net small bowl from Koskela. All other BIFE Napkin from props stylist’s own.

heat oil in a saucepan over black peppercorns medium-high heat. sauté. blend ingredients. With motor running. then reduce evaporates (3-6 minutes). 3 Brush steaks with olive oil. gradually whisk 4 cardamom pods. frozen to 150C and heat a charcoal barbecue to medium available at Herbie’s Spices (herbies. for brushing Chimichurri 1 cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley.au). add oil in a thin steady stream. soaked in water airtight container. Serve topped with sauce. dry-roast spices and chilli until juice and smoked almonds (reserve a few for 1 tsp coriander seeds fragrant (2-3 minutes. crushed 30 gm harissa (see note) barbecue until lightly smoked (10-15 minutes). except oil. then serve with chimichurri. thyme and 4 litres of water in a large tender (10-12 minutes). 2 Heat a charcoal barbecue until the coals are red and have a film of white ash over them (see note). Dip octopus in and wine and simmer until most of the liquid 6 underripe strawberries. and green strawberries Napkin from Koskela. not just in the middle. 1 tsp each coriander seeds and 5 For chilli sauce. place smoked almonds in the oven on Serves 4 1 tsp ras el hanout (see note) a baking tray lined with baking paper and roast 2 celery stalks. NSW with smoked butter and almonds. adding more butter and almonds. chilli Milly and Eugene. 25 ml white wine vinegar 2 tbsp dried oregano 1 tbsp dried chilli flakes 120 ml olive oil 1 For chimichurri. add shallots and garlic and 2 fresh bay leaves 1 Place celery. Bife ancho with chimichurri All other props stylist’s own. It will keep for 2 days in an Note Harissa. cook 15 mins (plus resting) PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN FOOD STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD STYLING GERALDINE MUÑOZ Serves 4 (pictured page 36) 4 sirloin steaks (about 350gm each). Qld 2 golden shallots. for 10 minutes 4 For smoked butter and almonds. 1 fresh bay leaf to spiced oil. chilli and green 50 ml white wine ice if necessary. Would you get me the recipe? ” Bruce Dodds. coarsely chopped Juice of 1 lime until browned (8-10 minutes). Add fish stock and Red shiso and thinly sliced red chilli. bruised easily pierce through (1-1½ hours). in a food processor until a coarse paste forms.net Chilli sauce “I adore Gerard’s octopus dish. Emerald. to serve heat to low and submerge octopus and simmer. Stockists p175. Remove from heat. garnish) and keep warm.com. finely chopped barbecue. ras el hanout. is 100 gm hickory chips. shiso leaves. preheat oven Ras el hanout. a north African chilli paste. stand for 1 hour. Would you please ask 50 ml vegetable oil larger flameproof tray of ice and place on the for the recipe? ” Dee Wright. coriander seeds. Prep time 25 mins.net . a Moroccan spice blend. CHEFS’ RECIPES WorldMags. seeded and thinly sliced Meanwhile. cook 2 hours (plus resting) 1 long red chilli. Close the lid and 1 clove garlic. 2 long red chillies. put butter in a small heatproof dish. cook until mixture is a thick sauce consistency Spiced oil ensuring it’s totally submerged. then refrigerate in strawberries. place in a “ I would love to serve Porteño’s steaks at my next Gerard’s Bistro’s coal-grilled octopus OCTOPUS Platter from barbecue. Manly. stirring occasionally until translucent and 6 thyme sprigs bay leaves. Spread almonds in a separate flameproof dish alongside. then passata 1 kg octopus tentacles saucepan and bring to the boil. This keeps for 5 days in an airtight container. Place soaked hickory chips over hot coals. halved crossways 3 Carefully remove octopus from liquid. in smoked butter. Smoked butter and almonds the oil until required. see cook’s notes p176). lime 2 star anise 2 For spiced oil. until the skin is well browned and slightly crisp 1 head garlic. peppercorns. Set aside. season to taste and grill until cooked to your liking (3 minutes on each side for medium rare). is 250 gm butter. Prep time 10 mins. Transfer butter to an airtight strawberries 100 ml fish stock container and refrigerate until chilled (2 hours). then season to taste and refrigerate. chilli and almonds. 100 gm blanched almonds heat.AU WorldMags. cut into 2cm cubes. To test if it’s ready. Note At Porteño the grill is set about 30cm above the charcoal. add chilli. thinly sliced and out of the boiling water 5 times. at room temperature Olive oil. Remove from heat and rest for 5 minutes. Add harissa. until a knife can (2-3 minutes). split Combine in a large saucepan with remaining 6 Drain octopus tentacles and grill over coals 1 litre (4 cups) vegetable oil ingredients and warm over medium heat to 50C. available from select grocers and delicatessens.> 38 GOURMETTRAVELLER. transfer (6-8 minutes). Coal-grilled octopus with smoked 50 gm tomato passata taking care not to let the butter melt.COM. hold a hand over the fire – It should be hot all over.

EASY ACCESS Prioritise your favourite or most frequently accessed items in the Door-in-Door section so you can find anything in a flash. Results may vary by models and duration of opening. *Model tested: GR-D907SL (FD). 4. With the two-door freezer layout. it’s a food-lover’s oasis.net . It’s the freshest thinking in a refrigerator. Add to that the new Moving Basket feature and the flexibility of your fridge organisation is ensured. Instead. where you can organise your frozen goods and leftovers whatever way you like.net Designed to entertain Please the crowds with the LG French Door Refrigerator “ toWhen it comes food. SLIM INDOOR ICE-MAKER It’s great having an ice-maker. ” RENOWNED CHEF with Door-in-Door. but not if it means compromising on storage space. WorldMags. 3. VISIT LG. The slim design frees up internal space and allows clear access to three full-width shelves – another great bonus for the proud home entertainer. no longer is the freezer an icy black hole. 2. AN AUSTRALIAN GOURMET TRAVELLER PROMOTION WorldMags. it also optimises food storage with a unique adjustable shelving system.COM/AU/FRENCH-DOOR-FRIDGES. KEY FEATURES 1. such as by type or date. AND RESTAURATEUR MATT MORAN LG’s new four-door refrigerator with the Door-in-Door™ feature not only offers consumers the innovative double-layered door system. TWO-DOOR FREEZER The convenience of easily locating your items isn’t limited to the top half of the refrigerator. FOR MORE INFORMATION. Based on internal test methods measuring percentage of reduction in air loss when opening the Door-In-Door compared to the full door for 10 seconds. fresher is better. LESS COLD-AIR LOSS Help to reduce cold air loss that occurs whenever the refrigerator door is opened with the Door-in-Door feature: proven to reduce cold-air loss by up to 41 per cent compared with the full door*.

to serve pastry into edges. brush it a whirl at home – may I have the recipe? ” Sarah Sharp. Brush excess cure mix off trout. Place tart shell Prep time 15 mins. Vic Fare Exchange. Tahitian lime pie with 4 For grilled peach salad. reduce oven to 125C. Passionfruit sorbet. blend ingredients. Cool on a wire rack and trim excess pastry. Brunswick. then stir in flour and ½ tsp fine Meanwhile. with scoops of passionfruit sorbet. beat butter and sugar in an add sugar and whisk to just combine. 2 Preheat oven to 120C. cream. 250 gm butter. cook 30 mins (plus curing) name and address. 3 For lime filling. salt.net LIME PIE All props stylist’s own.CHEFS’ RECIPES WorldMags.com. NSW 2001. Sherry vinegar and maple syrup Juice of 1 orange 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 50 ml olive oil Grilled peach salad 50 gm brown sugar 3 peaches. fennel and basil in a bowl. we’ve substituted a store-bought one. lightly beaten.COM. Tea-smoked ocean trout with grilled Please include the restaurant’s name and peach salad address or business card. olives. beating well between aside for bubbles to settle (10-15 minutes). Australian Gourmet Traveller. write to next party. or email fareexchange@bauer-media. quartered and sliced 100 gm Moroccan olives (see note) 2 baby fennel. skin on. Would you share the recipe? ” Tara Harris. for eggwash with eggwash and bake until crisp (4-5 minutes). pin-boned 150 gm jasmine rice 50 gm black tea Orange-blossom vinaigrette 1 tbsp each orange-blossom water. I am keen to 2 eggs. as well as your Prep time 15 mins. strained (about 8 limes) into a 30cm diameter round tart tin and press any black olives. Remove paper and weights. Sydney. then Newmarket Hotel’s add oil in a thin steady stream until emulsified. then remove tart from case and serve 150 gm caster sugar between 2 sheets of baking paper to 3mm thick. Turn out onto a work surface and knead on a baking tray lined with baking paper. GPO Box 4088. heat a chargrill pan passionfruit sorbet over high heat. place trout in a non-reactive container and refrigerate to cure lightly (30 minutes). sprinkle brown sugar on cut side of peaches and grill cut-side down until charred (4-5 minutes). then gradually whisk in lime juice and set The Newmarket team makes its own sorbet but here Add eggs one at a time.AU WorldMags. see cook’s “give I’m a huge fan of Newmarket’s lime pie. except oil. Pat lime custard into shell and bake until set with a Serves 8-12 into a flat disc. # 40 GOURMETTRAVELLER. each addition. Serves 6 (pictured page 37) 125 gm brown sugar 50 gm fine salt 1 side ocean trout (about 1kg). stones removed 1 kg heirloom tomatoes. thinly shaved on a mandolin 1 cup (firmly packed) basil 1 Combine sugar and salt and scatter all over trout. Spread rice and tea in a roasting pan.net . plus extra for eggwash notes p176). invert pastry Note Moroccan olives can be substituted with 250 ml lime juice.au. Whisk in passionfruit sorbet electric mixer until pale and creamy (6-8 minutes). REQUEST A RECIPE “The trout at Bluebonnet would be perfect for my To request a recipe. Pastry Refrigerate to rest (30 minutes). Toss with vinaigrette to taste and serve with trout. Cover with foil and roast in oven until trout is cooked to your liking (15-18 minutes for medium rare). tomatoes. Cool 5 eggs room temperature for 30 minutes. 3 For orange-blossom vinaigrette. Albert Park. Combine peaches. in a food processor. Roll pastry completely. Vic 650 gm (4 1/3 cups) plain flour 1 egg. Pour plus resting lightly until a dough forms (3-4 minutes). allowing it to overhang slightly. 250 ml thickened cream Remove top layer of baking paper. cook 1 hr and 20 mins. Tahitian lime pie with 1 For the pastry. lightly whisk eggs in a bowl. softened 2 Preheat oven to 160C and blind-bake pastry 250 gm caster sugar until pale golden (40-45 minutes. place trout on a wire rack about 10cm above tea mixture and place pan over high heat on stovetop until it starts smoking (10-15 minutes). wrap in plastic wrap and rest at slight wobble in the centre (45-50 minutes). halved.

Le Cordon Bleu. VISIT LECORDONBLEU. food and Lifestyle Education wine writing and explore the motivations of food tourists. economy. it’s “the quintessential lifestyle degree combining appealing flexibility for busy professionals with depth of interest for passionate foodies”. WorldMags. NSW 02380M with Cordon Bleu degree has given me the opportunity to not just build on previous qualifications but. sustainability.COM.net AN AUSTRALIAN GOURMET TRAVELLER PROMOTION STUDY ONLINE The only postgraduate degree of its kind in Australia. CHOOSE YOUR LIFE. students from legendary leader in gastronomy. Sascha Stone. health. says program initiator Dr Roger Haden of Le Cordon Bleu. “The Master of Gastronomic Tourism SOUTHERN CROSS UNIVERSITY CRICOS PROVIDER: 01241G LE CORDON BLEU CRICOS PROVIDER: SA 01818E. ” an exceptional entrée into the world of food and tourism education. aesthetics of food and wine. further my knowledge in the specific field of food and wine tourism. Australia is pleasure taken in eating and drinking quality products uniquely placed to is increased with knowledge of where the food comes offer this program. the Le Cordon Bleu Master of Gastronomic Tourism covers all facets of how food and drink relate to our lives. who makes it. offers around the world. Graduate and Tourism THIS COURSE IS NOT AVAILABLE TO INTERNATIONAL STUDENTS STUDYING IN AUSTRALIA. politics. With its strong emphasis on understanding gastronomic history and principles and varied business skills. cultural traditions and more. Its online Le Cordon Bleu Master of Gastronomic Tourism is a multidisciplinary program aimed at providing a holistic approach to gastronomic tourism. Taking an interest has replaced taking food for granted. from. which is attracting In collaboration with Southern Cross University. Students also get the benefit of studying management and marketing within a hospitality and tourism context.net . 0DUNHWLQJ2ɤ FHU&LW\RI6ZDQ:$ FOOD AND WINE EDUCATION IS BEING transformed by the interest and desire of consumers everywhere. most importantly. People wanting to enjoy the bounty of “gastronomic With its flourishing tourism specific regions and locales have already learnt that industry.” Rock your food world by studying gastronomic tourism. ENROLMENTS ARE NOW OPEN AND YOUR FUTURE WAITS. The course embraces agriculture. Students with internet access and a passion for gastronomy and tourism can cover topics including events management. and how it is made.AU WorldMags.

you’ll find nearly two hundred scrumptious starters. Receive 20% off your order with the promo code ‘discover’ Expires 31 October 2014. from around the world. dishd. WorldMags.net A NEW TAKE ON HOME DINING HAS ARRIVED AT YOUR FRONT DOOR PETITS G R ATINS DE CR AB W IT H C R A B I N A B U T T E R .com. Choose your favourite dishes online and we’ll deliver straight to your doorstep. mains and desserts. W H IT E W I N E A N D E M M E N TA L C H E E S E SAU C E S E RV I N G S U G G E S T I O N At dish’d.net DISCOVER DELIGHT SHARE .au TASTE THAT DELIVERS WorldMags. See website for details.

WorldMags. olive and feta salad 1 Barbecued mussels with chorizo and toast (RECIPE P44) MUSSELS Board and napkin from Plenty Kitchen & Tableware. All other props stylist’s own.netGOURMET FAST Quick meals Fire up the barbecue and make summery midweek dishes from Lisa Featherby in next to no time. 1 Barbecued mussels with chorizo and toast 2 Korean-style grilled chicken 3 Escalivada with pa amb tomàquet 4 Grilled nectarines with coconut tapioca 5 Vietnamese-style beef and vermicelli salad 6 Coorong mullet with lemon and caper sauce 7 Classic egg and potato salad 8 Chermoula prawns 9 Watermelon.net 43 . WorldMags. Sophie Moran coloured bowl from Craft. Stockists p175.

crushed sugar and 1 tsp sea salt flakes and stir to combine. then season to taste. 3 Grill mussels and chorizo on a barbecue. thinly sliced 370 gm (2 cups) tapioca pearls Extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with lime juice and palm sugar and PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD garlic and keep warm.GOURMET FAST WorldMags. until pearls 60 ml (¼ cup) Sherry vinegar sesame seeds and with ssämjang to the side. then turn and cook heat. finely chopped 2 Korean-style grilled chicken 2 tbsp sherry vinegar Serves 4 ½ tsp sweet paprika Steamed rice. onion. 45 gm light palm sugar. doenjang and gochujang are sieve and rinse under cold running water. for brushing 650 ml coconut milk 2 garlic cloves. halved and stones removed thickly sliced chicken. Juice of 2 limes 1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley. are translucent (10-15 minutes). golden-brown (1-2 minutes). eggplant and garlic on Scan this page with the free viewa app to download a list of all the ingredients you’ll need Marinated chicken a tray. resisting the urge to lift too early. then tear them and arrange 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar in separate piles on a platter with garlic in its 1½ tbsp honey skin. debearded and scrubbed except chicken. 4 thick slices ciabatta. Transfer to tomato. Add coconut milk. stir in until chorizo is golden and cooked through and 1 extra garlic clove. quartered serve with coconut tapioca and coconut chips. Spoon onto grilled bread. process ingredients. Ingrid Tufts Daisy tealight from Craft. finely grated until tender (16-20 minutes). coat with the olive oil and season to taste. 2 tbsp thinly sliced basil Refrigerate until required (see note). 50 ml olive oil 8-10 minutes for mussels). Rub bread with 1 tbsp honey cut garlic. squeezing juice 8 chicken thigh fillets onto bread. better known as tomato bread.AU WorldMags. for drizzling season to taste. 10 gm ginger. finely grated coconut tapioca Serves 4 (pictured page 43) 1 small red chilli (optional). until 2 Brush bread with oil and char-grill over high essential here. 1 nashi pear. cloves separated. combine ingredients Olive oil for brushing coarsely torn in a bowl and reserve. then grill cut-side ingredients in a large bowl and season to taste. scatter oregano over. crushed. Napkin from Plenty Kitchen & Tableware. 2 eggplant. until golden and charred on Serves 4 until warmed through (1-2 minutes). Stockists p175. season to taste and transfer to a bowl. 44 GOURMETTRAVELLER. finely chopped 4 Grilled nectarines with and toast 5 gm ginger. 1 Spanish onion. Serve on steamed rice tapioca and stir until water returns to the boil. 2 Meanwhile. until charred and 1 tbsp sesame oil golden (1-2 minutes each side). charred (8-12 minutes). 1 For tomato-sherry vinaigrette. then finely diced with kimchi. 2 small garlic cloves. brush bread with extra-virgin olive 100 ml soy sauce oil. halved sherry vinaigrette bowl. combine Pa amb tomàquet. Drain in a fine 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil Note Daikon kimchi. toss to combine and Extra-virgin olive oil. thickly sliced plate. scattered with spring onions and continue cooking. then to serve 2 fresh chorizo sausages (100gm each). is a classic of Catalan cuisine. halved with juices and serve scattered with parsley. drizzle 2 very ripe vine-ripened tomatoes. plus to thicken and set. whisk ingredients in a 2 tbsp gochujang (see note) bowl to combine. halved lengthways Note Tapioca is rich in starch. drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and Ssämjang season to taste. so it will continue turning once.net 1 Barbecued mussels with chorizo 1 garlic clove. turning occasionally. in a blender to combine. heat a barbecue to high heat. 3 Escalivada with pa amb tomàquet 2 Meanwhile. Add 4 nectarines. to serve 1 Place capsicum. halved 1 For marinated chicken. 40 gm onion (about 1/3 small). 1 head of garlic. crushed turning occasionally. turning once. Transfer to a both sides (2-4 minutes). TEXT PAGE Wooden plates from Dear September. to make these Gourmet Fast recipes or to pick 4 garlic cloves. Great tomatoes are down. until cooked through and 1 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. for ssämjang. 2 tbsp doenjang (see note) 3 For anchovy dressing. cored. Rub with cut sides of 2 red capsicums. 1 tsp coriander seeds. turning once. then rub with tomatoes. drain well and place in a bowl. finely chopped available from Asian grocers and supermarkets. Brush nectarines with olive oil. stirring occasionally. if it becomes too thick. stir to coat and set aside for 10 minutes. finely grated 4 Peel vegetables.net . then 2 golden shallots. finely chopped Serves 4-6 4 thick slices sourdough 1 spring onion. to serve Tomato-sherry vinaigrette 3 Drain chicken from marinade and char-grill. daikon kimchi (see note) 60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil SHOPPING LIST & RECIPES APP thinly sliced spring onions and sesame seeds. seeds discarded.> all mussels are open (6-8 minutes for chorizo.COM. up our Gourmet Fast App with up to 140 recipes. plus extra 1 kg mussels. to serve Anchovy dressing 2 anchovy fillets. Coconut chips. halved a little extra coconut milk to loosen. 2 Meanwhile. drizzle with dressing and serve with tomato bread. removing mussels as they open. then grill. All other props stylist’s own. Add 2 vine-ripened tomatoes. Fresh oregano. crushed then char-grill over high heat.

White Spaces. Stockists p175. WorldMags. Tessellate Road. bowl from Bison All other props Australia. White from Mud Australia. Wooden plates white square dish from from Dear September. stylist’s own. Tablecloth and plate from Mud cutlery from Country Australia. Stockists p175.net salad (RECIPE P47) . own.net KOREAN CHICKEN ESCALIVADA Plate by Wooden plate from Serax from Beautiful Country Road. Hayden Youlley Design. Platter from Craft. 3 Escalivada with pa amb tomàquet 2 Korean-style grilled chicken NECTARINES Sophie BEEF Bowl from Milly Moran bowl (centre) and Eugene. 4 Grilled nectarines with coconut tapioca 5 Vietnamese-style beef and vermicelli WorldMags. All other props stylist’s Coco Tree teaspoon from Dear September.

from Loft. Stockists p175. All other CHERMOULA props stylist’s own. Pink votive from Craft. (used as glass) from Country Road. Cutlery from Country Road. from Milly and Sophie Moran bowl Eugene. 9 Watermelon. both from plate by Serax from Beautiful Spaces. White Serax.net . All other props stylist’s 7 Classic egg and potato salad own. 6 Coorong mullet with lemon and caper sauce WATERMELON Ann Van Hoey Bowl from Mud triangle dish by Australia. Aqua bowl Country Road.net plate from Shelf Life. Platter by Serax and Stockists p175. Pink bowl from Mud Tablecloth from Australia. olive and feta salad 8 Chermoula prawns WorldMags. Beautiful Spaces.MULLET Eucalypt POTATO Platter WorldMags.

in a bowl and season to taste. crushed 100 gm bean sprouts to serve ½ preserved lemon. top with eggs. season to taste and juice and oil. thinly sliced 2 lemons. garlic and 60 ml white vinegar preserved lemon to a smooth paste. season to taste and refrigerate 2 tbsp fish sauce set aside. 2 Soak vermicelli in boiling water for 5 minutes.au own. finely diced 1 For chermoula. cut into 2cm pieces once. Serves 4 as a side 4 Thread beef onto skewers and chargrill. Stir in lemon Juice of 2 limes ingredients in a bowl. 1 tp Dijon mustard drizzle dressing over. turn and cook until just golden (1-1½ minutes). mullet too early. WorldMags. Resist the urge to turn the lemon wedges. ends trimmed 1 tsp cumin seeds. toss to combine. Tablecloth from Country Road. rinsed 180 ml mild-flavoured olive oil 2 tsp honey 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley. Add some grilled prawns and crusty bread to make 3 Meanwhile for nuoc cham. 7 Classic egg and potato salad 80 gm Kalamata olives 5 Toss vermicelli and remaining ingredients Part of the battle when cooking potato dishes is to ½ Spanish onion. TEXT PAGE Coco Tree 3 Combine remaining ingredients in a bowl and Watch Emma Knowles make our cover recipe teaspoons from Dear season to taste.com. at room temperature a jar with a screw-top lid until well combined. crushed with oil and grill. finely chopped Nuoc cham 2 golden shallots. then turning. finely chopped 2 Heat a barbecue to high heat. thinly sliced into rings in a bowl. again and snip with scissors into 10cm-15cm 3 Grill asparagus until golden (1 minute each 9 Watermelon. then add 55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar 1 For lemon and caper sauce.netGOURMET FAST 5 Vietnamese-style beef and 6 Coorong mullet with lemon and 8 Chermoula prawns vermicelli salad caper sauce Serves 4 Serves 4 (pictured page 45) Serves 4 16 uncooked king prawns (80gm each). Transfer mullet and asparagus to a plate. WorldMags. 200 gm mayonnaise 2 Combine remaining ingredients in a large bowl. to serve ½ small white onion. potatoes have a lovely creamy texture and nutty Red wine vinaigrette flavour – perfect for this piquant sauce. Marinated beef Lemon and caper sauce rind rinsed and finely chopped 500 gm beef tenderloin. # 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 70 gm salted baby capers. thinly sliced 2 golden shallots. turning 500 gm watermelon. quarter and set aside. thinly sliced Olive oil. on iPad (pick up our September. then transfer to a platter. 1 For marinated beef. olive and feta salad lengths. thinly sliced Flat-leaf parsley. coarsely 2 tbsp soy sauce juice and juice squeezed from membrane chopped 2 tbsp fish sauce 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon 2 tsp sesame oil 2 tbsp baby capers in salt. shake ingredients in 6 eggs. Stockists p175. Dutch cream ¼ cup coarsely chopped dill with bean sprouts and serve with beef. cleaned Lemon wedges. rinsed and drained 100 gm cornichons. or cleaned and butterflied 45 gm roasted peanuts white fish such as whiting). 250 gm vermicelli 8 Coorong mullet (about 100gm each. combine ingredients then turn and cook until golden and cooked Top prawns with chermoula and serve with in a bowl. drain skin isn’t crisp enough. add dressing. skin-side down and without through and shell is charred (3-4 minutes). until charred and just cooked (30 seconds 60 gm feta to 1 minute each side). rinse under cold running water. until required. and serve. pound cumin. combine ingredients spoon lemon caper sauce over and serve with this salad more of a meal. to garnish 1 Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender (10-15 minutes). torn. then drain and transfer to iced WATCH & MAKE water to stop cooking. brush mullet 2 Barbecue prawns flesh-side up until just cooked 1 garlic clove. Peel. 250 gm crème fraîche Season to taste and shake again. season with black pepper online: gourmettraveller. cut into 5cm cubes 1 For red wine vinaigrette. then drain and set aside to steam dry. use Desiree potatoes instead. top choose the right potato for the job. combine coriander and pound to a paste. crushed 2 cups each Vietnamese mint and coriander Crisp green salad and crusty bread. a crisp green salad and crusty bread. 2 tbsp red wine vinegar Serves 4-6 as a side 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses 6 large Dutch cream potatoes. flesh and pith discarded. for brushing Chermoula 2 Lebanese cucumbers. stir to coat and serve. thinly sliced 2 bunches asparagus. 2 Meanwhile. Set aside in a bowl. side). 2 garlic cloves. place eggs in a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 8 minutes (for medium- cooked yolks). segmented over a bowl to catch 1 cup (loosely packed) coriander. digital edition via the Apple App Store) or other props stylist’s scatter with parsley. If you can’t 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil find them. 3 small red chillies. until golden and half-cooked (2 minutes).net 47 . it will stick to the barbecue if the then drain. All coat well. Add potato and gently mix to with the free viewa app. through (2 minutes).

season to taste. 2 finely chopped white onions and Serves 4 as a light meal. Bread basket bread and a handful of torn basil. Place crumbs and 2 lightly taste. TIPS get the most out of it. basil. whether it’s sourdough bread in the bacon fat in same quantities of butter and olive oil freezer-space. rinsed canned crushed tomatoes). then finish with thinly sliced parmesan-crumbed chicken. puddings special loaf go the extra mile. from Craft Victoria. so sliced-white chopped. but if you’re pressed for for bakery leftovers.AU WorldMags. a little more ingenuity may be needed to 130gm smokehouse-style bacon both brushed in a little oil in a char-grill in a non-stick frying pan over medium- high heat and fry half the chicken. and white sourdough loaf. and 2 cups basil leaves. turning occasionally. stir to combine and 60ml chardonnay vinegar and then simmer over medium heat until season to taste. Here are a few of mayonnaise with 4 finely chopped thinly shaved on a mandolin with 2 tbsp and freezing it sealed our favourite ways to make that cornichons and 3 tbsp thinly sliced extra-virgin olive oil and juice of in bags ready for use in toppings. 2 thinly and delicatessens. Fig and bread salad bread will work. until golden and a bread-eating culture in the world (6-8 minutes). 250gm enough to process well. grated parmesan. Slice chicken crossways cooked through (3-4 minutes). + For most of the RECIPES. very ripe Roma tomatoes. Combine ½ loaf day-old crumb is half the ^ soft (10 minutes). season to taste and and crusts.net . in a bowl. Serves 4 as a light meal bite-size pieces with 8 quartered figs. add the of course. PANTRY RAIDER WorldMags. from Shelf Life. Whisk 80ml chicken stock. torn into battle. pieces. used a country-style Heat 125ml olive oil in a frying Roma tomato and lettuce. ^ but most types of pan over low-medium heat. bake in oven at (optional). Turn off the heat.net Bread Wondering what to do with that leftover loaf? Here are some ideas for making the most of your daily bread. Add 50gm finely larger ones torn. then salt dish. There’s not pan until cooked through and charred turning occasionally. If bread isn’t dry sliced golden shallots. Stockists p175. then sauté sandwich with remaining toast. until to pan and repeat with remaining consider whizzing it British bread-and-butter pudding or golden and toasted. that hasn’t produced brilliant uses and set aside. season to taste. Add 1kg coarsely fennel salad and anchovies sourdough bread (375gm). season to serving dish and (20-25 minutes). Combine 2 baby fennel bulbs into breadcrumbs Spain’s gazpacho. or substitute in a food processor. shake off excess and set aside. 8 coarsely ^ (available from select supermarkets sourdough bread to coarse crumbs torn thin slices prosciutto. pour over salad.COM. but once it’s been in Makes 2 sandwiches Grill 4 chicken thigh fillets and crumbs. Season to serve scattered with extra parmesan Pappa al pomodoro taste. # Bridget Bodenham add 400gm diced day-old sourdough beaten eggs in separate bowls. top with bacon and another slice and anchovy fillets to taste with the recipes here we’ve Serves 6 of toast. Heat 50gm butter and 2 tbsp olive oil HOT ^ the bread-bin a day or two. Toast 6 thin slices of on paper towels. Reggiano. is usually less than ideal. All and serve topped with other props stylist’s grated Parmigiano. add chicken. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD halved mixed cherry tomatoes and 150C (8-10 minutes). the pan. Italy’s panzanella or bruschetta. Combine 60gm chicken. Wipe out pan. then in no recipe to transform it into a delicious meal. or 6 as a side Good texture in the 3 thinly sliced garlic cloves until very Parmesan-crumbed chicken. Good fresh bread needs Clubhouse sandwich coat chicken slices first in egg. own. Slice 3 chicken breasts 125ml extra-virgin olive oil in SALAD Kris Coad tomatoes begin to break down (200gm each) diagonally into 8 thin a bowl. WORDS & FOOD STYLING LISA FEATHERBY PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR spoon onto 2 slices of toast. Set aside + Bread freezes well. 400gm canned tomato polpa Process 300gm day-old 1 torn buffalo mozzarella. then 1 lemon in a bowl. Fig and bread salad 48 GOURMETTRAVELLER. toss to combine and serve.

au/dairyawards WorldMags.net CHAMPIONS OF THE 2015 AUSTRALIAN Grand Champion Cheese Heidi Farm Raclette GRAND DAIRY AWARDS Grand Champion Dairy Product Cow and the Moon Passionfruit Crème Gelato Australia is home to exceptional dairy produce which stands among the best in the world.net .com. Join us in celebrating this year’s winners. Now in its sixteenth year. Just have a look at our 2015 Australian Grand Dairy Awards Champions. 2015 Champions Champion Natural Yogurt Champion Specialty Champion Fresh Unripened Champion Blue Cheese Mundella Greek Natural Yoghurt White Dairy Drink Cheese King Island Dairy Discovery Champion Flavoured Yogurt Pauls Smarter White Milk Floridia Ricotta Ash Blue Ruby and Roy’s Passionfruit Champion Flavoured Dairy Drink Champion White Mould Cheese Champion Washed Rind Cheese Yoghurt Divine Dare Iced Coffee Double Espresso Kingaroy Bunya Black Boosey Creek Cheese Warby Red Champion Ice Cream Champion Cream Champion Cheddar-Style Champion Flavoured Cheese Dooley’s Premium Vanilla Ice Cream Tweedvale Pure Pouring Cream Cheese Barambah Organics Labna with Champion Dairy Dessert Champion Butter or Butter Blend Alexandrina Vintage Cheddar Fennel & Sea Salt Yalla Chocolate Mousse Devondale Original Butter Champion Hard Cheese Champion Goat’s & Sheep’s Champion Milk Champion Dairy Dip La Vera Parmesan Milk Cheese Brownes Fresh Full Cream Milk Paradise Beach Purveyors Berrys Creek Rowefords Blue Pesto Swirl Discover more about our Legendairy Champions at legendairy. the prestigious Awards recognise the ‘best of the best’ in Australian dairy. WorldMags. by picking up a Champion product next time you shop.

PETE’S KITCHEN WorldMags. spilt and seeds scraped taste. Line a 24cm-diameter the sea. Remove from it’s low in mercury. thinly sliced diagonally Prep time 35 mins.and coarsely chopped Sweet pastry dairy-free pie that’s 2 tsp coconut oil. and high in calcium. chilli. then pour into a 1 tsp coconut oil. Season with smoked bowl. salt and pepper and roast until prevent a skin forming and refrigerate tomatoes soften slightly (8-12 minutes). Add coconut oil in coconut oil and paprika in a bowl and small pieces and rub in with your fingers season. with the motor running. 750 gm (about 12) baby squid tubes. is one of my Prep time 30 mins. then pat into a disc (dough will be occasionally. until chilled (2 hours). garlic and vinegar. Wrap in plastic wrap and Peel tomato and coarsely chop. melted 100 gm almond meal a great showcase for ½ tsp sweet paprika 100 gm coconut flour cherries when 15 gm (about 12) each roasted 60 gm arrowroot they’re at their peak. 4 Combine remaining ingredients in a vitamin B12 and zinc. Cherry pie with cherry mixture. serve salad to the side. until skin blisters (25-30 minutes). honey and Season to taste and refrigerate. to form fine crumbs. with a red wine vinaigrette to serve 60 gm dark chocolate (50%-60% cocoa section of supermarkets. until smooth then. quartered ½ tsp mixed spice it’s a more ethical 1 vine-ripened tomato. stirring constantly. Toss tomato. Drizzle with until thick and smooth. and how you Drizzle capsicum with 1 tsp coconut oil 6 egg yolks feel afterwards. trim and prick base RECIPES PETE EVANS PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER summer favourites steaming) 4 Char-grill skewers and lemon in with a fork. Cut mixture to a saucepan over medium-high cherry tomatoes into 6 portions with heat. 1 vanilla bean. nuts in a blender until finely ground. BARBECUED SQUID WITH cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 1 For sweet pastry. cold I’m sure you will be 2 small garlic cloves. thinly sliced Serves 8-10 foil if it browns too quickly). Roll dough Squid. chorizo. until tender (2-3 minutes). 1¼ tbsp coconut oil 5 To serve. then add to blender rind and vanilla bean and seeds to the boil with tomato. bring to the boil. baby rocket. bring milk. 1 kg cherries (600gm pitted) vanilla ice-cream or coconut cream. cherry pie. Serve with from a trusted Salad of shaved fennel. dairy and Finely grated rind of 1 orange refined sugar can 1 For romesco. Blind-bake (see cook’s notes and not just because Serves 6 as a light meal batches until squid is cooked and lemon p176) until light golden (8-10 minutes). Whisk yolks. Spoon I’ve teamed it with 3cm x 5cm pieces orange custard into the pie shell. spoon romesco onto each until golden (6-10 minutes). Peel 2 For orange custard. hazelnuts and roasted almonds 210 gm coconut oil. Heat a frying pan over high heat. slightly sticky).COM. Drizzle with remaining 3mm-thick round. 75 gm raw honey 90 gm arrowroot 50 GOURMETTRAVELLER. orange capsicum and chop. Strain through a sieve and cool briefly add olive oil in a thin steady stream. The second CHERRY PIE 1 long red chilli. quartered 1 tbsp lemon juice choice. “ 3 Meanwhile. Remove paper and weights and bake done on the barbie. combine dry ROMESCO SAUCE 5 minutes.AU WorldMags. Blend in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Soak 12 bamboo milk mixture.net On the sunny side Summer means squid on the barbie for Pete Evans. cover directly with plastic wrap to paprika. coarsely 125 gm raw honey pleasantly surprised chopped 2 eggs at how good a 1 tbsp red wine vinegar Orange custard dessert free of 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk gluten. Mix in honey and add tomato mixture and cook. cook 45 mins golden (15-20 minutes. scissors. cleaned. chilli. ” and roast. Return skewers in water for 30 minutes. Bake until pastry is favourite. preheat the oven to 200C. Transfer to a bowl. # not just for the Romesco sauce solids). leaving truss intact. ½ tsp smoked paprika plate. cook 45 mins (plus coconut oil and season well. turning occasionally.net . 1½ tbsp arrowroot (see note) recipe is a grain. it tastes so good 250 gm cherry truss tomatoes is caramelised (1-1½ minutes each side). and here he rounds it off with another seasonal favourite. whisking until smooth. tossing eggs. top with lemon and skewers and oven and set aside to cool in dish. (5-10 minutes). finely chopped flavour but because 1 red capsicum. Gradually pour in 2 Reduce oven to 180C. seeds discarded. manufacturer who flat-leaf parsley and Ligurian olives 100 gm raw honey Note Arrowroot is available in the baking uses free-range pigs. arrowroot until smooth. place a slice of chorizo 3 Preheat the oven to 180C. one of the Barbecued squid with inside each piece of squid and thread between 2 sheets of baking paper to a great super-foods of romesco sauce FOOD STYLING LISA FEATHERBY STYLING DEB KALAPOR onto skewers. Process refrigerate until firm (1 hour). remaining ingredients in a bowl. scored and cut into bowl and toss to coat cherries. cover edges with Try to buy chorizo 1 lemon. then top another personal 3 smoked chorizo sausages (300gm). pie dish with dough.

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While grilling. I’m cake cooked in palm leaf casings – this form in Malaysia and Singapore. sticks (originally the skewers were made from soft.MASTERCLASS WorldMags. kipas satay. see the difference. and make the peanut but try making it from scratch and you’ll with minced goat and wrapped in caul fat sauce the following day. though this is now three or four pieces flat on soaked bamboo Singapore now offer nasi impit. And in on has the bonus of the fat melting away. filled with deep. Served with a fundamental. If there’s one dish that’s most the 19th century. aroma is the perfect foil for the peanut sauce. in the absence of historical evidence. marinade. a Javanese satay seller. Tasmin flavours of the meat. fresh lemongrass.net . Using chicken with the skin quickly. if you come varieties of sate in Indonesia. Its palm leaf with a sauce thickened with rice flour. a regular barbecue works a treat recognisable from South East Asia. the most Satay is traditionally cooked on a special across a satay vendor offering this rice cake. other Javanese satay flavours and balanced with sweet-salty notes. Over in Bali. it pays to baste the meat The superstar of South East Asian street-food. though you can of course use store. satays are so popular opened at Gardens by the Bay. writes Tony Tan. it’s also lemongrass to create sate lilit. Still. Malaysia and and its embers given a boost now and then and cucumber. it’s but no one can pinpoint exactly when it Sakiban. mashed rice cake with none of the Although there are these scores of the stems of coconut leaves called lidi). Even though the morsels incredibly delicious served hot off the grill. A peanut sauce should be to resemble a fat sausage. is beef sliced into cubes for grilling and served in Bahasa Malaysia. it pays to give yourself mellow flavour. are preferred for their earthy and though this also appears unfounded. Nonya cooks inclined to think this is pure conjecture. easy-to-make dish. Some food historians suggest It’s usually filled with slow-burning charcoal Satay is also served with wedges of onion it crossed over to Singapore. give it a go and prepare to be amazed. of satay hawkers along Hoi How Road in lightly with oil. satay is an ideal summer barbecue dish. thread Sadly. Sate buntel. boggling. rather than the small birdseye the Tamil word “sathai”. business-class cabins of the regional carriers town of Kajang for some of the best satay in The other half of a great satay is the such as Singapore and Malaysia airlines. so I marinate my meat overnight store-bought peanut butter. about every kind of meat is used for making bought. sate Padang is made with boiled leaving a crunchy crisp skin known as garing Ketupat. Others synonymous with the dish. fabulous with gado-gado and boiled potatoes. Many versions of peanut sauce served in of sate in Java and in other parts of the The secret to a great satay lies in the Australia taste flat because they’re made with Indonesian archipelago are pretty mind. satay fans flock to the to develop the charry scent. is cut against the grain and each piece should for extra crunch. it’s satay. it’s best to cook them Infused with smoke. is made to lock in the flavours.AU WorldMags. over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes they’re even served in first-class and Over in Malaysia. Just spices. the rice cake cut into cubes. meaning three pieces. cucumber as well as ketupat – a kind of rice shine. Once the meat is marinated. a kind of technically against the law. the variations a couple of days to prepare it really well. meaning flesh. Dried WORDS & RECIPE TONY TAN PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT FOOD STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD writers have suggested the word comes from While there are quick and dirty long chillies. |it became so loved that a motley collection too. the Satay Club.COM. often add pineapple for a tangy kick. wedges of onion and ginger blended with spices make it really Hokkien words “sa teh”. Some food writers believe it arrived 1917. The satay sauce recipe here STYLING RHIANNE CONTRERAS ILLUSTRATION LAUREN HAIRE minced seafood mixed with grated coconut weigh no more 10 grams and be no more makes a generous amount. galangal and believe its etymology is derived from the spicy peanut sauce. with Arab spice traders who barbecued their vendors materialised and the town became While freshly roasted. Made properly. The meat of crushed peanuts added just before serving birdseye chillies and shallots. but it disappears and spices is moulded around stalks of than 3cm wide. Tamarind is often added for acidity.net Satay with peanut sauce The superstar of South East Asian street food. Not long after. Sumatra. spicy appeared. a new incarnation has of meat are small. Other of satay became the classic we love today. some cooks also offer spicy gradually worked its way up to Thailand in with a fan made of pandanus leaves called pickles known as achar. popular export is the version served with grill that’s similar to those used for yakitori. for instance. crunchy peanuts are meats on skewers for shawarma. permutations to this classic and relatively variety. pioneered the business back in quite addictive. the best satay is brushed these skewers of barbecued meats are Singapore back 1940s came to be known as with coconut oil. It’s convenient. Today. Whatever the timeline. According to local food writer peanut sauce that complements the smoky The home of satay (aka sate) is Indonesia. It’s served I use chuck for beef satay and thigh meat rich and creamy with a generous scattering with a sauce of kecap manis mixed with with the skin on for chicken satay. Whatever the provenance. the country. many satay stalls in Malaysia and sate including turtle. I prefer to grind my own not often served in Australia. Satay can therefore 52 GOURMETTRAVELLER. elusive aroma of ketupat. Should there be any leftover. Alice Yong. peanut sauce.

combine golden shallots. finely 4 Squeeze tamarind pulp over a sieve placed streets of South East Asia. serves 4 marinade in a non-reactive always be grilled to order. soak them in water for 30 minutes to BY shallots in a blender. drained. For this quantity of chicken you’ll need 30 bamboo STEP process lemongrass and How do you rate a good satay? It must skewers. coarsely chopped (4-5 minutes).net 53 . ½ tsp belacan (optional. soaked chillies. thin it down with a little water. white bowl and pale blue bowls from Mud Australia. lemongrass. Satay sauce 6 Add coconut milk and bring to the boil 4 golden shallots. All other props stylist’s own. 2 lemongrass stalks (white part only). soaked in warm water until sauce thickens (3-4 minutes). water Note Belacan. finely chopped the liquid and discarding the solids. I growl and ask 3cm pieces (4-6 hours or preferably overnight). finely 7 Add sugar.net 1 2 3 4 5 STEPS Grey linen apron from Stone. It should Makes about 30 sticks. skin on. for fresh ones. coarsely chopped serving. coarsely chopped 8 Thread 3-4 chicken pieces onto each skewer. cut into container and refrigerate for flavours to infuse offered pre-cooked satay. of your satay will take you straight to the 1 lemongrass stalk (white part only). restaurants here. reserving 2 golden shallots. 30 gm ginger. Just before 30 gm piece of galangal. make. Stockists p175. add remaining peanuts. Get your barbecue going and the scent 1 Spanish onion. and if I’m ever 600 gm chicken thigh meat. 6 7 8 9 be a complete meal but it’s also great as Chicken satay 1 For chicken marinade. Satay is perfect for summer and fun to 1 Lebanese cucumber. is available from 100 ml vegetable oil Asian grocers. a shrimp paste. WorldMags. Coconut oil or peanut oil. brushing constantly with oil. stirring continuously 2 garlic cloves. sliced cucumber and wedges of onion. kecap manis. spices and belacan in a food processor Chicken marinade and blend to a paste (2-3 minutes). Set aside. coarsely chopped thick. or to taste (see note) 1 tbsp kecap manis 300 gm raw peanuts. ever be deep-fried as served in some prevent them burning. 2 tsp ground coriander add satay mixture and sauté until fragrant Satay with peanut 1 tsp Chinese chilli powder (4-5 minutes). cut into thin wedges ginger. Add tamarind water and bring sauce 1 tsp each ground fennel and turmeric to the boil. see note) 10 Serve chicken skewers with room-temperature 50 gm tamarind pulp soaked in 250ml hot satay sauce. 1 tsp ground fennel until chicken is slightly charred on the outside 1 tsp ground chilli and just cooked inside (4-6 minutes). and simmer over low-medium heat 10 long dried chillies. 2 tsp caster sugar 5 Heat oil in a wok over medium-high heat. remaining ingredients and Prep time 30 mins. add STEP never. stirring occasionally. coarsely chopped over low-medium heat. # 250 ml coconut milk 2 tbsp dark palm sugar. cook 30 mins (plus process to a fine paste. Small orange bowl. chopped over a bowl. then press through sieve. This cooking method marinating) 2 Combine chicken with robs the integrity of the dish. galangal. for brushing 3 For the satay sauce. half the peanuts and chopped salt to taste. roasted and crushed WorldMags. If sauce is too for 10 minutes. ½ cinnamon quill 9 Heat a char-grill or barbecue to high and grill 1 tbsp ground coriander chicken skewers. White Vitamix Total Nutrition Centre blender. a starter with curries to follow. cut into chunks garlic.

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Long thin if you press your eggplant and it bounces back. brownish seeds that have separated from the SILVERBEET sun. flesh. but the vegetable patch isn’t suffering from any such New Year hangover. to mulch effectively visit to five centimetres in depth (see below). the party form of a windbreak or by staking the plants. we apply the Goldilocks principle – that SPRING ONION boosting nitrogen before planting. the fruit itself has from others in the Solanaceae family – which BOK CHOY/PAK CHOI dark. tropical and Given that it’s summer. which are easier to critical in maintaining a healthy other benefits too. Picking fruit frees the plant’s energy to put water in the heat of the day. or both. Reduce watering to three to four times a week. WorldMags. they just keep on giving. develop earlier than that’s a good sign. particularly in an A-grade position in the large. If you cut into PUMPKIN stagger planting for a prolonged harvesting period. effectively shielding the soil surrounded by protective spikes. you may well be a little be damaged. EGGPLANT varieties. look for glossy firm fruit. It’s a good idea to signs of ripeness in the flesh. in terms CARROT of determining ripeness. twice a gloves to protect your hands from the spikes (and day if the temperature is above 30C. the root zone could Co. as keep things running smoothly. In warm regions. BASIL formidable-looking vegetable. TOMATO mature plants need closer to 60 centimetres. so consider installing protection in the strung out. direct the flow around into the remaining fruit and developing more ILLUSTRATION LAUREN HAIRE KEY the root area rather than over the foliage. The plant’s tough growing out from the purple flowers which are BEANS leaves grow broad. So. leathery skin and the annoying spikes on its includes tomatoes. but it’s not the sole competing weeds. You can look for LETTUCE season. your plants will begin to form fruit.net GROW YOUR OWN Purple reign They may look tough. so harvest regularly to promote production. says Mat Pember. Prepare free-draining soil mixed with growth. rather than twisting the eggplant loose. At four to six weeks. if your patch has yet to reach full capacity. while older fruit will have RADISH garden. water is especially hydrophobic. veggie patch. such as Lebanese. better and stronger. though you were throwing confetti on some advice on mulching effectively. the flesh HERBS large round varieties and cope better earlier in the is likely to be aerated and bitter. ROCKET Growing eggplant happens easily in the summer it’s probably too young. but for longer PLANT on the invite list. # WorldMags. capsicums and chillies – in that CAPSICUM neck seem to announce inedibility. maintains even soil necessity. but When harvesting. but eggplants play nice. and with the right amount of TLC. plants will appreciate eggplants can be pruned back to the bones once subtropical climate planting mulching immediately. Small. there are still a few vegetables left but healthy seedlings should be established. If you need to cursing). bigger. littleveggiepatchco. If your Mat Pember is co-founder of The Little Veggie Patch gourmettraveller. SWEETCORN the trick and plant seedlings 30 centimetres apart. WHAT TO is just warming up and. an eggplant and discover it has next to no seeds. pea straw index finger is on the mark. but mulch has many or sugar cane. too. SQUASH handful of chook-manure pellets.net . This knows how to get its groove on in the summer heat. Compost or a is. Next advice and a video on how nutrition as it breaks down and apply around two season they’ll give back. use scissors for a cleaner cut ZUCCHINI planting extra seedlings will mean more survivors. will encourage the roots to reach further for a drink ARTICHOKE Sometimes. Eggplants differ BEETROOT beneath against overheating. nor should it be too thick. It bullies out handle and also full of nitrogen. CHILLI Let the timing of the season help you determine CUCUMBER which variety of eggplant to grow.com. Eggplant is one variety that really so the moisture penetrates deep into the patch. ASPARAGUS tell it copes well under duress. Here. just by looking at a plant you can and ultimately help a stronger plant to develop. + For cool. so choose accordingly. If it doesn’t spring back. which flowers. and even temperate climates. they develop their colour immediately. newlyweds. Use a mulch that provides they’ve finished fruiting and left in-ground. Seed Seedling would be burnt in the strong sun.com. should do slightly yellow seeds surrounded by flesh mean the STRAWBERRY eggplant is at the ideal ripeness. BEFORE APPLYING mulch ensure Apply mulch to a depth of between WITHOUT MULCH water alone may your plants are large enough not to two and five centimetres – between cause the soil to bake hard under the become lost underneath it. thin the patch if necessary. Use a the first and second knuckle on your hot sun and it can quickly become pulverised form of lucerne. Post-silly season. Mulch is also needed to temperature and provides valuable DON’T SCATTER mulch too thinly. and eggplant is a Soon after. Here’s nutrition as the material breaks down.au ONE-MINUTE SKILLS: MULCHING Come summertime. In fact.au eggplants are exposed to wind. somewhere in between is just right. and wear Seedlings will need water every day.

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Many a time someone had to be rescued “theBeer and warmth individual. It’s been a while since I was last there and judging from how many folk were in there. suffocation by in the culinary day into a damp squib. which. bacon. But I’ve nailed my colours to the mast on this subject in the past. a chap who can be felled by a bowl of porridge. feeling peckish. of course. ” nor the other. The only technical hitch was that the It’s the first sustenance of the day. beer and the warmth of the pub led to breakfast can be restorative or preparational. Market pubs. but be careful – too late and we move into in the realms of a holiday treat or something for someone had to brunch territory.netFERGUS’S TABLE It makes great sense to do much of our eating in the morning. a cigarette and from suffocation by breakfast.net 57 . so breakfast in my case is usually a coffee. on a train travelling from Glasgow to London. which is something we don’t want to the weekend. Brunch is the bastardisation of two great moments Rituals like these are important for passing the day. in itself. # WorldMags. of course. And then there was the time. Then there is the unanswered question: what do you drink with brunch? A wineless purgatory! on a point I’ve already made: say no to brunch and give us back lunch. A long time ago as an architectural student one would work through the night and reward ourselves with a good breakfast at one of these Smithfield Breakfast has many roles in life. egg. being about all I can manage first does not lend itself to a hearty breakfast. I popped into The Hope for the porter’s breakfast. with the view of the Lake District speeding past as you attack a brace of kippers and a glass of Guinness. This is where the elevenses come in handy. we had to remortgage our house to pay the bill. Sadly gone now is The Cock Tavern under the Breaking bad poultry market. a chocolate ice-cream and a Fernet. As you wake up in the morning and become aware altogether. compared with filling our guts. I work next to Smithfield meat market in London. It doesn’t come much better (just remember the kipper-burps that stay with you a while. Wandering back to our hotel early in the morning we were met by a happy scene of folk eating freshly baked bread with coarse sea salt and drinking beer – not something you come across every day. The great fault in all this is that modern urban life a Fernet Branca. The next great breakfast: the Caffè Florian on St Mark’s Square. when I went to Prague with the Architectural Association before the Velvet Revolution. says have thought that breakfast can be weirder than lunch? Fergus Henderson. I’m a confirmed lunch man. which to breakfast always a slice of seed cake and a glass of Madeira. then shutting down overnight. but should never be done at brunch. depending on the narcolepsy. leaving supper to fester in your stomach. so I must end by picking up breakfast. One. but what the hell – it’s Venice. Here speaks of the pub led thing. Why is breakfast on my mind. be rescued from do. WorldMags. beans. Well. more suited to tilling the land than sitting ILLUSTRATION LARA PORTER Many a time of your innards and extremities you may require a late at a desk – factors that keep that kind of breakfast breakfast. toast and a Guinness. The odd coffee. Who would The ritual of breaking one’s fast has its place. but nothing can be perfect). helping our guts digest and process. neither one thing and lunch is a vital ritual. there must be fewer people working in the market nowadays than I thought – either that or they’ve all taken the pledge. so let’s return to breakfast and the breakfast greats. many years ago. And a fry-up is another thing narcolepsy. is innocent enough. around which the pubs have special licences to open early for the market workers. you might wonder. and it so happens that on my way to work today. which occasionally beckons to me with its instant-comfort quality: sausage. where the landlord once turned to me and said he was having a particularly good morning – the Criminal Investigation Department were at the end of the bar drinking Château Montrachet.

WorldMags.net WorldMags.net .

Persillade’s chicken Kiev. and they’re all DIY sensibility is underlined by recycled painted and serving food at the flexible and casual end of the raw timber panelling. A bunch of notable operators such as using classic natural technique. WorldMags.net 59 . Vin du Patron. and there’s a minor but beurre noisette.) It has a bar and Milton Wine Shop. The kitchen is all white tiles. adorn walls and menus. They’re fresh Cellar Bar – belong to the club. and it seems that area dark timber wine racks. Two of other by first-time owners. husband-and-wife team Tanya and Aidan Raftery. there’s the rise of the Parisian cave soup and sandwiches at lunch. one run by seasoned professionals. Michael Harden raises a glass to the fresh crop of wine bars. The menu runs from Melbourne’s thing for wine bars now become “a thing”? eggs and Bircher muesli through to dinner via good Certainly. pioneered by the likes Melbourne wine bar. an easily mispronounced name have swelled the ranks. and chef Jake Scannell with owners what’s happening is more evolution than fad. For one thing. theory. Harry & Frankie and Clever Polly’s bottle-shop licence. Many of the new places are displaying a The light. But even against the backdrop of this long-standing who have an abiding love of lo-fi wines. in his garage in wine-bar land. artisanal the dash-over-cash school of interior design. They both make the right its longest-running and most beloved hospitality hybrid restaurant-bar-café moves while still keeping businesses – Jimmy Watson’s and the Florentino’s a foot in the old-school wine-bar camp. The mere idea of it is à manger in recent years to bolster the trend-spotting enough to make you swoon. pleasant lack of seamlessness to the room that comes Tanya and Aiden Raftery.> WorldMags. the dining with caper and hazelnut among this new crop of wine bars. which invites the question: has and fashionably coiffed staff. and in more recent but familiar. the The vibe here is love. two of the smartest operators of parsley. clusters of light shades made spectrum. and the grape remains king. Melbourne likes a wine bar.net MELBOURNE REVIEW Bars stepping up Two new players on Melbourne’s evolving bar scene show the species is in excellent health. It’s owned and run by fresh-faced of Gertrude Street Enoteca and City Wine Shop. as their cellars. All good fodder for speculation about from wine bottles and the 1960s-influenced Oslo generational change and challenges to traditional Davis illustrations of staff and regular customers that PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA SCENE SETTERS dining models. they’re as notable for their kitchens from a budget that didn’t run to structural overhaul. split-level dining room comes from marked interest in wines that are boutique. not money. times the love affair has been kept humming by the Persillade is a marketer’s dream of the neo- hybrid bar-bottle shop model. (Aidan even interest. Its cheery or made with minimal intervention. airy. the past 12 months have been notably fertile makes his own wine. Timber tables on timber Above from left: Persillade’s burrata and But examine Persillade in East Melbourne and the floors sport little brown glass bottles holding sprigs shaved asparagus salad CBD’s Kirk’s Wine Bar.

cloudiness. and beautifully salty crisp fried capers.net KIRK’S CAPTAINS From left: Ian Curley. making it an easy place to sit back Scan this page with the and handles the road-less-travelled flavours of the and let the experience come to you. tangy and comes topped with a dollop of dill-flavoured but the food and the room too. contact the bars. that floods the plate when you slice into the sphere. such as a 2012 Bernard Defaix Côte de Léchet 60 GOURMETTRAVELLER. but say. The producers – Curly Flat. good at and cumin. though. All of this conspires to make Persillade burrata and shaved asparagus that’s turbo-charged a good place to step beyond your wine comfort zone with the addition of a classically nutty beurre noisette if you’ve not already left it. Their OR CONTACT come to the table with a slightly funky but immensely shared and accumulated experience is reassuringly satisfying bonito mayo.AU WorldMags. The endearing enthusiasm of the dining room small and the artisan. spritz and tannins aplenty – the welcome gush of tarragon. is Persillade’s raison d’être. and it’s sometimes treacherous modern-take-on-classics path. towards the wine. does a good job navigating the Wine. That goes not just for the wine list.COM. too. outing as a head chef. meanwhile. Luke Lambert. with a pretty salad of descriptions. The wine list is a user-friendly mix of good local Bar and Persillade or to The crackers are also good with beer. Right: Persillade’s airy interior. “Where We’re Going We crushed peas and broad beans. and Kirk’s pork cotoletta with pickled apple (left). Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru les Argillières or a 2007 Scannell is good with fish. City Wine Shop. such as the saison from is echoed in the kitchen. And then there’s “The Road Paved with Gold”. A piece of Spanish JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap. given that it’s another partnership between Con Anyone who likes a salty snack should start the Christopoulos. judging the mood of the table and accurate with the There’s more good stuff.and garlic-flavoured butter Tasmanian 2014 Domaine Simha Simla Field Blend. of DOWNLOAD night with the seaweed-flavoured rice crackers that The European. It’s not surprising. free viewa app to see full menus from Kirk’s Wine more unusual natural wines with true umami aplomb. Don’t Need Roads” is pure lo-fi territory with multi- The biggest relief comes not just from the very blends. mackerel is skilfully cooked and paired with marinated The people selling the list and pouring the wine and grilled eggplant. WorldMags. and good potato salad (lots of bite and tang from spring includes chardonnay from the Yarra Valley and onion and chives) surrounded by a vibrant salad of nebbiolo from Piemonte. lemon are unpretentious. but it doesn’t want Craiglee – mixed with a solid showing of Old World for interest. perched on a plinth of very mostly taste as you would expect them to taste. crème fraîche scattered with black salt. collection on the list may be small. and yoghurt flavoured with tahini the natural stuff without being annoying. Con Christopoulos and Josh Brisbane of Kirk’s Wine Bar. apparent here. in his first Denmark’s Evil Twin that’s brewed in New York. leaning. a from the meat that still has the texture and flavour of section for those looking to splash out on 2006 Dubois chicken despite having been formed into a sphere. Siglo et al. chickpeas alive with mint. too. presented under three fairly self-explanatory headings: His chicken Kiev is an exemplary case in point: a “The Road Well Travelled” is a selection of wines that golden-crumbed sphere. comfort is the attractive pea and confit red onion salad is sweet and default setting. Jake Scannell. as does the wine.net . appropriately enthusiastic about juice and za’atar. An equally At Kirk’s Wine Bar. It’s a nice twist on the genre. Josh Brisbane and Ian Curley. Mount Mary.

their place on the list driven by small but increasing demand. tofu wrapped in daikon) hot-smoked trout with bubble too. Italian booze posters and the sculptural main courses $26-$29. There is relatively limited seating capacity Wheelchair access Yes. all smooth textures and Open Mon-Fri 7. (03) 9240 7055 WorldMags. 31 Spring St. (03) 9639 9500 St. scrawled with daily specials are the most Licensed. Kappo. Viva la evolución. fishy-fiery mixture of horseradish and bottarga. There are also a few minimal- interventionist wines. on the group’s pre-aged aesthetic. Providence. Heartattack and Vine. Carlton. Sat-Sun 8am-3pm. The smoky-pink terrazzo Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm. none more so than the standout chocolate Licensed. French café furniture that shelters under a Minus The lighting at night lacks atmosphere. large corner windows and high ceilings. a butcher (where all the charcuterie an intense tomato sugo topped with both gremolata Cnr Hardware La and is made) and a cheese shop. 497 Rathdowne HEARTATTACK AND VINE Lygon St. and a very fine free-range pork cotoletta Little Bourke St. fried egg is matched with an excellent potato blin and The family resemblance is easy to spot in Curley’s a small tangle of snowpea shoots. Vegetarian One entrée. but there’s much about Kirk’s that makes (03) 9078 4056. porchetta rolls at lunchtime customers. Given that the group’s HQ in Spring Street Then there are the pork and veal meatballs in Kirk’s Wine Bar now boasts a grocer. tomato.com.50-$24. His Caprese salad. at City Wine Shop. mainly fish and pumpkin and lentil fritters with anchovy stuffed fried olives are vegetables (pickled vegetables with housemade chilli tomato pickle. brilliant). being carbon copies of the ones Cards MC V EFT.30am- a refreshing tweak that keeps the food interesting intensely rich flavours. 150-152 Wellington St. decorated with gold-dusted 11pm. that comes with discs of pickled apple and pale-pink Melbourne. if not outright addictive. Gelateria Primavera. There are good aperitivi. # AND Heart starter Counter culture On for young and old ALSO The owners of cafés Wide Open Road and Following Izakaya Den and Hihou comes Kappo. It has an (ex-Kenzan guy Kentaro Usami) fondness for farmers’ markets. Noise Manageable. And while the Plus Is this Melbourne’s Excellent Fabbri amarena cherries are exquisitely legacy and the depth of the Melbourne wine bar scene most European wine bar? have played a tangible part in the success of both Minus The trek to matched with yoghurt gelato from the group’s brilliant the toilets. Sat-Sun 9am-11pm. and a wine list focused on Italian accompanied by elegant sake and and squeak and a breakfast berry varieties. City Wine Shop. (03) 9005 8624 Melbourne. framed vintage Prices Entrées $16. lacy-edged and runny yolked) interesting to say. on the ground floor of serving espresso and pastries in the bar and then serves it directly to a new facility in Carlton. has all the usual the bling seems perfectly appropriate. 329 obscure wine. nor is there a bottle-shop licence (yet).net MELBOURNE REVIEW GLAM FACTOR Chocolate salted caramel at Kirk’s. the family lineage clear.au. walnut miso.net 61 . timber-topped bar. defies the morning. duck Each of the dishes is plated prettily without getting kirkswinebar. But area-appropriate Italian accent. distressed white walls. seven odds. It comes in five. prepares the food behind the main Providence. It’s a credit to how well-adjusted Kirk’s is that Prices $11. (03) 9600 4550. but gets Noise Very present a whack of flavour from the addition of fried capers. clafoutis. they’ve also found something fresh and salmon and (expert. Oysters are served natural or with an excellent. It’s certainly not as voluminous Persillade a collection as at big sister. at small round tables. There’s a calmness and a confidence to them when busy. wide retractable awning on Hardware Lane. play desserts $14. parented. Chablis. Kirk’s Wine Bar and Persillade come across as well and snacks. list of European classic hits – steak tartare. solid – and familiar – foundations. jargonless curving bar is bolstered by a double row of blend of lo-fi food and wine. and pork terrine. made bigger by one main course. menu. a clear vision of what they wanted. and salty caramel dessert. with a menu that includes and cicchetti in the evening (the or nine courses. Vegetarian Three dishes. floor. literal link. ridiculous. The green tiles persillade. and the ergonomically Plus A clever. East Melbourne. trout – Curley is expert at adding something extra. But while the menu reads as a straightforward pickled shallots. Carlton. This intimate 25-seat An aged-care facility may not be the most likely place to find a café with a A Minor Place have restaurant emulates the Japanese faux-industrial fit-out (all raw timber moved into bar territory with kappo style of dining where the chef and metal-framed windows) and a Heartattack and Vine. Kirk’s carte is built on and labne. that’s only achieved with operators who started with Wheelchair access No. It’s a compact space. on the other hand. too. A breakfast dish of smoked places. WorldMags. vitello tonnato. for instance.com. basil and mozzarella suspects. house-cured ocean Cards AE DC MC V EFT. and snacks. peanuts.

net . For enquiries call 0404 024 775 or 0403 040 177 and book at gertrudeenoteca. Open lunch Wed-Sun 4 to 31 January. 98 Stanleys Rd. Red Hill. Come to the Mornington Peninsula to dine among the vines at Gertrude Street Enoteca at Avani Winery presented by Gourmet Traveller.com In association with WorldMags. Avani Winery. WorldMags. Vic.net Join us for lunch The GT pop-up is back and you’re invited.

and it’s topped with matchsticks of sea urchin and chives.” Whoa. it’s Mike really talented Italian chefs get bitten by the chopsticks Tyson muscle with Cassius Clay finesse. WorldMags. when the food scores a hit. In Japanese restaurants. see it coming. with all the beginning with a few snacks: a focaccia studded with good and bad that entails. so there’s Pretty much everything likeable about LuMi comes some pleasant enough dancing around the ropes at the from the kitchen. it doesn’t or purveyor of eel fettuccine makes a more convincing stand up to the weight of the lists at Pilu or Ormeggio. they’ve got charm. The room is a glass box. There’s a that modern Thai-talian classic. Italians of my acquaintance are scandalised by functional – comfortable even – but there’s no question appropriations of Italian dishes in Asian restaurants. and copies of Food Service Have you ever eaten Chinese food in Italy. pad macaroni. Inside. It’s a tasting menu format. Which 11-year-old such treats as gingko nuts and prawns. It’s button mushroom and strands of enoki dressed in> WorldMags. at least Unspeakable doesn’t even begin to cover it. gloopy offerings at the likes of Acme and 10 William Street. though? Monthly on one of the side tables. great view of the Fairfax and Accenture buildings over a stunning little cheddar sablé biscuit. but neither does it have the wit and sparkle of the rosticceria Cinese and its limp toast di gamberi. argument for East meeting West than your average say. National on the speakers. and it leaves you punch-drunk in the the case is being made for the affirmative. (“You are confined only by chawanmushi is a silken steamed custard concealing TURNING JAPANESE the walls you create. flapping of arm and muttering smattered with Jack Johnson. and nothing about its roast potatoes that’s good enough to single-handedly fittings or furniture will blow your hair back.net 63 .netSYDNEY REVIEW Light fantastic What happens when an Italian chef turns to the East for inspiration? Asian-Italian dining at its knockout finest. deep. most of the dining room is in deep shadow consommé base. You don’t and go bamboo: could any good come of it? At LuMi. writes Pat Nourse. The waiters are more competent than natural. contrasted by the glare of the open kitchen. happiest of ways. pumpkin. at LuMi From left: chef Federico Zanellato. The wine list is Even the lowliest cod-roe pasta-slinging goma joint serviceable rather than a pleasure in itself. maiale in salsa agrodolce and leaden gelato fritto. if you can see past the quotes inscribed in a of “Italian chawanmushi”. and a bowl PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW the water. But what about the top end? What about when But wow. no social feng shui. results curious and not especially coherent or apt playlist in shooting of eyebrow. spelt ravioli with girl’s Instagram feed was that lifted from?) it’s a silken steamed custard made on a parmesan burnt butter. you’re here for the food because without it the place Any mention of Japanese-style pasta or (god forbid) has no native buzz. Bon Iver and The about Marco Polo and the sanctity of la cucina vera. There’s a rehabilitate this mighty bread beyond its retro status. band around the windows. that’s what.

but full of marine savour. “It’s not a poem. It’s a knockout. Jokes on the plate tend to be pretty limited in their scope. or some fried or toasted nuts or seeds.net with crisp pork and mussel cream. hot liquid plastic bags has resulted in one of the least appealing butter and pumpkin purée filling. with little pops of chef browns the meat (usually too briefly) to make up flavour in the mix from a scattering of chives and for the lost savour that you’d otherwise get cooking toasted pumpkin seeds. “oh hey. parlour tricks.COM. This is no mere happens is that the belly (or jowl or whatever) gets stunt-casting: biting into each raviolo it all makes sealed in a bag and then cooked low and slow in a perfect sense. silverbeet and crisped-up bits of guanciale. menu from LuMi or to made with semolina and stinging nettles. As Christopher Kostow. the oven or on the grill. told a masterclass at last year’s Melbourne Food & Wine Festival. been if they’d made the radical move of cooking the based. compensate for the one-dimensional texture. mopping it in the pan. I don’t think it’s just my double-digit cholesterol Then comes one of the great surf-and-turf dishes talking when I say I’m also no huge fan of great hunks of our age. The of unrendered fat.” Trompe-l’oeil is one of the few devices available to the chef in this arena. it’s my dessert”) only gets you so many laughs. the sauce based on mussels cooked with a whole lot of aromatics (only some of them Italian) in cream. that the eggplant and bonito number is a bit less thrilling. culminating in a dish both disciplined and those things that’s done primarily for reasons of Scan this page with the free viewa app to see a full muscular. Hell. the roe a briny wave somehow riding water bath to break down the connective tissue. Gooey. The seaside comes trends in restaurant food in recent memory. It’s totally okay – there’s the 64 GOURMETTRAVELLER.AU WorldMags. you think. there’s only so much artistic nuance you can capture in food. but. And so it is here with the bonito-cooked-like-it’s- eggplant-and-eggplant-cooked-like-it’s-fish. the chef of Californian three-star Meadowood. they’ll What else have they got up the sleeve? add crunch in the form of the skin cooked separately. I don’t want to get all bah-humbug on you. The parallel rise of pork belly and earthy qualities of LuMi’s ravioli come from the spelt chefs developing a taste for cooking meat sealed in base of the pasta rounds and their sweet. This is cut Anyway. but though the glistening sliver of marinated fish and pistachio-tinted “fillet” of melanzane are perfectly edible. It’s only three or four bites. there’s four more rounds to go.net .RINGSIDE SEATS LuMi’s interior and the stinging nettle spaghetti WorldMags. really. and to further your brow. this contact the restaurant. DOWNLOAD Wallop! The spaghetti lands one right between the say. liquefied. then mixed with fennel pollen. and twirled into a lime-green heap in the middle of the plate. it’s not a used ashtray. a sort-of mayo. The theory OR CONTACT eyes. cooked deftly. Jerusalem artichoke. it’s a clunky medium. Phew. it’s not a piece of meat. eggplant like it’s eggplant and the fish like it’s fish. Big flavours. the old “oh hey. The above all that orange butteriness. They’re talented enough that they don’t need the powdered oyster (less gross than it sounds) and dulse. and that’s to the party in the form of the faintly obscene tongues wedges of fat barely tempered by fire. much more pleasure than any zither). then. but there’s so much flavour going on here. a sea lettuce. combining shreds of sand-crab. it’s a piece of dried watermelon” routine (let alone. but I’d say most of the time it becomes one of work here. fine texture. There’s layers of cleverness at is sound. It starts with the dough for the pasta being efficiency in the kitchen rather than the diner’s pleasure. and play well together with a bit of a nasu dengaku vibe. At this point it seems wise to retire to the corner of the ring while your trainer splashes water in your face and tells you to pace yourself. if you’ll pardon the editorial aside. into squared-off spaghetti on a chitarra (that stringed is not to say the piece of jowl offered as LuMi’s final instrument from Abruzzo that has brought the world savoury course isn’t okay. sauced. What usually of sea urchin that loll and leer on top. I can’t help porcini powder. These buggers know what they’re doing. but wonder how much tastier this one might have The course that follows is largely goo. And naught a prawn or steak in sight. Perhaps it’s fortunate.

a portmanteau of the first dinner Wed-Sun populace that would rather exfoliate with a cheese grater names of Zanellato’s twin daughters. Before he whatever the set-up. simply being a faithful. a leaf of purple kale. (02) 9550 3458 Building. (02) 8412 0700 WorldMags. China and even Japan to maybe not so surprising. a blindingly superior to any sweet version sold in Sydney). sorrel. a user-driven situation. Sydney. 79 Hall St. culinary prowess is available to the would-be diner in illuminating but has plenty of heart. only augmented by 961 preserved eggs. past the insane queues and beyond the hype you’ll find a into Emma’s Snackbar. But hey. and the hip. More. there’s your toasted buckwheat and crackling crumbs. crisp parmesan churros (vastly the spaghetti chopsticks – you can count us in. Alwazah salad with grilled pork neck. WorldMags. (02) 9571 1999. 59 ASSÁMM lower ground floor. I can also take or leave the palate-cleansing course that comes after it. Queen Victoria into it. of seats. And it’s $14. this is still the create a vibrant new eatery in the became a brand. a curl of pickled pear. Enmore. as ever. tender strip of pork. unvarnished treatment of trad granita-sorbet configuration. verdant assembly of parsley. and at and eggplant-based favourites are chicken pad krapow with chopped Bills Bondi. after opening restaurants still here. style” that are like the Platonic ideal of the milkbar 56 Pirrama Rd. But I’m not racing to eat it again. (02) 9261 0204 Beach. still killer (even at $20 a pop). There’s hot. Assámm. Open lunch Thu-Sun And now for the really good news: there’s a bar anyone serves in this city. Luna and Mia. shiny new signage. Pyrmont.netSYDNEY REVIEW HARBOUR WATCH LuMi overlooks Pyrmont Bay. Or but never fear: whatever the name. Building. the come full circle. lemon. he has beers. Vegetarian On request. mint a salumi-packed piadina (in no way diminished for and basil in the now-standard quenelle-crumb-gel. For the not inconsiderable fraction of the LuMi is. and the layout of the “bar” area is profoundly sincerity and ambition in just the right proportions. and sauced with as good a classic Amatriciana as AE DC MC V EFT. is a splendid thing: crumbed-cutlet. Bill Granger made PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO home of some of the best Lebanese in basement of the Queen Victoria his name distilling a certain Sydney the inner-west. rather sweetly. its carefully titrated creaminess.com.30pm. it gets the job done. Left: milk ice-cream with sour cherry and citrus sabayon. hand us Plus The food. Get favourites. Minus The vibe. Licensed. We’re a bit in love with the sunniness into a great café. Chat Thai have taken influences from surprisingly likeable restaurant. there’s only a handful and entirely welcome combination. but when the eats are this good you can let If this is the new face of Italo-Asian dining. # AND Liberty taken Global Thai Post more Bills ALSO What was once Emma’s on Liberty has evolved Want a bit more diversity in your Thai food? At Assámm the team from Up the hill. than willingly submit themselves to an hours-long also means “lights” in Italian. shop 17. Emma’s Snack Bar.net 65 . noon-2. shiso. Fine. Bills Bondi. dégustation that means that all of Federico Zanellato’s together you could conclude that it’s a place that’s bar menu $4-$14. it slide. Sure. It 6pm-10pm. All the lamb. the NSW. and the ricotta hotcakes are a soundtrack rich in ’80s pop neo-Bangkok look. Taking these etymologies Prices Dégustation $89. The eggs are as good tomato tins for the cutlery and crab-roe fried rice. Vietnam. by contrast. Japan and the UK. please. hummus. The milk ice-cream. And then there’s the tinned pasta. strange. It’s less a dessert than pan-fried flatbread) and pieces of lamb done “Milanese LuMi Bar & Dining a breath-mint. smooth citrus sabayon and the sourness of the by the fact that the spaghetti inside is so well made. the play between the sight gag of it arriving in a customised can balanced lumidining. It’s a refreshing Noise Jack Johnson. Bondi Liberty St. the cold rice-noodle in Hawaii. Umbrian cherries on top. bringing together Wheelchair access Yes. menu.

sitting on the Qantas flight. Los Angeles Singer-songwriter. it’s a takeaway flat white and maybe a community restaurant where some croissants. I indulge in everything with parmesan and basil leaves.” (Sally Seltmann’s new album. I go back there you pay what you feel it’s worth. family in Los Angeles. we grab wander over several times a week lunch before walking on the beach. in London. We’d friends on the weekend. is out now.” (Strictly Ballroom The Musical opens in Melbourne on 20 January. many people who make it. divides her time between Sydney “I go straight to Machiavelli in and New York. yet it’s very hard to find LA. As we celebrate Australia Day.net No taste like home Overseas success can have its price for expats.COM. lives in “Whenever I’m back in Melbourne. perfect pasta or Balmoral beach and watching whatever delectable meal Stefano the world go by. garlic and tomatoes. for a loaf of their sourdough bread. I really enjoy the experience. for vinegar and tomato sauce.) Especially a place that isn’t exclusively Japanese. lives Oscar-winning costume designer. And okonomiyaki miss the bread and coffee – I haven’t is one of my favourite Japanese been able to find anything like it in dishes. “When I arrive back in Sydney. at Murray cod.” NAPOLEON PERDIS Make-up guru. Clarence Street in [Sydney]. Singer-songwriter. where “I miss so much about Australian I feel instantly at home. hello as they walk and run along. to Mildura on the Murray River to I particularly like grabbing fish and Stefano De Pieri’s incomparable chips.” KIMBRA Kiwi singer-songwriter. Los Angeles. Hey Daydreamer. as I love one that takes place even before the friendliness of people saying I clear customs – the moment I’m ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL. and I really about the place. the works – and host a big PERDIS (INSET) banquet for family and friends. I have food that when we come home for a restorative chicken consommé Christmas. restaurant at the Brewery. happens on Christmas Eve: I go to With a zabaglione for dessert I am the Sydney Fish Market and buy up totally restored. from Yalla yoghurt to a meal at followed by a langoustine (the best Rockpool Bar & Grill. oysters. we ask leading lights based abroad about their most-missed hometown flavours and haunts.net . I head straight for the okonomiyaki “Before moving to Los Angeles. WorldMags. whenever I’m in town. based in SALLY SELTMANN Los Angeles via Melbourne. “The meal that has come to define I gravitate towards neighbourhoods trips home to Australia for me is with a park or open space. The craziness of the fish market when it’s so busy is all part of the fun. There. I fly 66 GOURMETTRAVELLER. I loved having so there’s always a nice warmth that place as our local. But my in the world) or a minute steak on a favourite Sydney food tradition bed of rocket. Alternatively. This has to be one of Australia’s greatest restaurants. lives with his and Athens. seasoned with chicken salt.” places before me.AU WorldMags. author. I like to go there with Star Pastry in Newtown. artist. BALMORAL BEACH AND NAPOLEON prawns. from Lentils as Anything in we lived a stone’s throw from Black St Kilda.) BARRY HUMPHRIES CATHERINE MARTIN Comedian. divides his time BEN LEE between Sydney. ticking CATHERINE MARTIN (INSET) a seafood storm – sashimi.

even though Actor. but HARRY’S CAFÉ DE every time I go back I grab the WHEELS. a winner and Americans just don’t “I miss grabbing a brekky roll and breakfast option. since 1998. but then it’s all good. weekends. Aussies do quality. There are two things that Americans just don’t do: good coffee and avocado on toast.COM.AU as quintessentially Australian to have anything like it. the Courthouse Hotel is a perfect Long lunches under the shade of way to catch up with mates after a veranda. heads the recently opened Although it’s getting better. but it’s just not the same as cosy once again. But I think the biggest a balmy evening where stopping WIL ANDERSON (INSET) thing I miss about food at home is for gelato at Messina feels like the the bread – in the US it’s generally absolute right thing to do. There is nothing Right around the corner is Binh soy latte at Gusto Espresso Bar (PHO).AU (NAPOLEON).AU (CURTIS STONE). I’d linger over the yeast. sharing me homesick just thinking about it. a good Spring in London. There’s Pho Chu The to the beach for a swim. plus the beer garden dinners in a simple Italian experience is something I love restaurant. Campos is that I miss more than anything always good. That café where I had a tab.AU (WIL ANDERSON) a table with some random people I feel like Americans view coffee as of butter slowing melting on warm and watching the condensation more functional. Then I do the food else. DAVID HAHN/BAUERSYNDICATION. coffee is a lot harder to find in the “It’s the way we eat in Australia US than in Australia. the fried home. A delicious and healthy rounds in the neighbourhood: the brunch after an early-morning dip massaman lamb at Thai Pothong at the beach? That’s just never is a long-time favourite. Co Do was more of a delicacy. and I love a café in LA has decent coffee on the immigration forms for Thy Thy for the vibe. lives in great coffee almost everywhere. the pies Sydney and the US.” “A coffee from almost anywhere around Newtown is essential as SKYE GYNGELL soon as I dump my suitcase. the confusing blow cover the windows. Melbourne.” # WIL ANDERSON filled with ham. good fresh juices and “My music studio’s been in Chef and restaurateur. WorldMags. and I feel an immeasurable Wheels in Woolloomooloo. And I still here. Bustling and raucous being away. Chef. are delicious. Sydney and maybe even the world. the local at home. When I’m Minh in Victoria Street. MICHELLE DAY/BAUERSYNDICATION. especially brekky. while we see it as white bread. and the avocado and roast tomato with apple balsamic on soy and linseed is also excellent. CURTIS STONE morning. MSG and because all the Aussies congregate ‘expat returning for a visit’ is nostalgia – it was the first place there. I head to Harry’s Café de on Coogee Bay Road. They’re always Actor.COM. Vegemite and toast as my WORDS NAOMI CHRISOULAKIS PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN (ROCKPOOL). You can get great food over softened. on top of a soft square (VEGEMITE). JASMINE POOLE/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM. based in Los Angeles. You know when of realising that there is no box the family’s favourite. based in Los Angeles. Sydney rock oysters. PHO CHU THE they do the best breakfast in (FAR LEFT). In my opinion.” “I have only been in Sydney for two weeks in the last year. cheese and Comedian.” Richmond.” WorldMags. AMANDA ROHDE/GETTY IMAGES (PRAWN). It makes be arriving before we touch down. and all is simple and I tried Vietnamese food. Los Angeles. On the me as a breakfast of yeast on chicken wings with lime. then falling out into RUBY’S DINER AND about home.net FEATURE DAMON HERRIMAN to live right by it and.net . mainly feels like a really Sydney thing. DAVID SOUTH/ALAMY (BALMORAL) & PAUL SUESSE/BAUERSYNDICATION. salt. and I have a host of regular haunts “I miss the classic Aussie meat pies ZOE VENTOURA EUROPEAN PRESSPHOTO AGENCY/ALAMY (CATHERINE MARTIN). I used pepper and chilli dipping sauce papers there before heading down sense of relief just to know it will are like crack. EPA I’m home – mostly Vietnamese. I do of a lot sweeter – so I’m never long course miss plump. fat and juicy home before getting a great Bing cherries and endless boxes FRANÇOIS TETAZ sandwich from Brewtown of perfectly ripe mangoes at Grammy-winning film composer Christmas. RICHARD MILNES/ALAMY (HARRY’S). Newtown or Luxe.” love New York Tomato. tomato toasties. At its best. for chicken pho in winter. Americans do quantity. divides his time between it’s a bit of a tourist trap. I personally like the poached eggs with salad and chilli jam. a beer at going to happen here in London.COM. lives in Los dim sum in Chinatown on a Sunday Angeles. CURTIS papers and read them while having STONE (LEFT) AND a relaxing breakfast at Ruby’s CHICKEN PHO FROM Diner in Waverley.” and music producer. When it comes to coffee and breakfast. JULIAN KINGMA there that I try and return to when and sausages rolls.

net .WorldMags.net WorldMags.

what’s an These associations demonstrate the evocative a better reward for their labour.net PRODUCE Fruits of labour The life of a market gardener is no bed of roses. remembering herb to linoleum. Our farm is just outside wandering the garden with Franklin’s David cooked to a gorgeous translucence. spoils us with course after course of me to foster the biodiversity that is so fleeting seasons and tiny quantities that our beautiful things. and that When Matt and I spend an evening at out of the vegetable plot. Benny Hill-style. They understand and celebrate the friend. less resinous the fragrance of those very same herbs on my melon is prepared in Spain while discussing aroma than more common forms. but as a child he’d hunted them in only sitting down. but seeing your produce in the hands of cooks who get it is the exquisite end that justifies the means.net 69 . I feel grateful that exposure to the wind and sun gives leaves Garagistes. allowing texture. The celtuce we grew is conquistadors. They They’re not just a garnish or accompaniment artistry. # WorldMags. a Robbins discuss the relative acidity of different sorrel plate. Lebanese cress. but David cicely (a plant that Luke introduced me to). Sometimes the administrative burden leaves. acceptable level of slug damage on celtuce. often in vain. But when I sit in a slugs by the light of a head torch. actually making food. “It smells like lizards. Too often I’ve or how many bunches of savory are ready for working with plants. He hadn’t actually been sniffing the plate. We grow in the soil. the loss of a crop to slugs. I really don’t think a gardener could hope for of which kitchen gets the radishes. week wandering the garden. oca leaf and radish flowers of the chefs here are friends who share my It turns out it’s a memory association are placed generously over the meat and on desire to explore the world of edible plants. looking for perfect shoots and serves me shungiku and broad bean leaves in list. A chef that experiences hidden in the mulch pile and shed tears over harvest. the heat or chasing chickens. They share our hatred producers represented on every plate and it’s planet. and it’s surrounded by leaves. compare the scent of a rare Brazilian flavours. nature of scent. one of the things I love about Growing food isn’t easy. in a kitchen. We see ourselves and other important on a farm. I look at it. plants allows him to use them in this way. to describe their Island wagyu bavette. my vegetable these guys share my plant addiction. juggling thoughts his mother’s garden under a rosemary bush. Luke Burgess. I’m fingers that morning. with lizards. will crouch in the mud beside you and I spend hours imagining my plants on a Our final savoury course arrives. this so deeply is inspiring to me. exquisitely amplified. as much a feeling of community as a feast. beautiful restaurants. There aren’t many people who of waste and help us to compost and recycle. Sweet Hobart and the city is amply supplied with Moyle and fumbling for words. cultivate by hand a smoked mackerel broth and my plants taste outweighs the time I have in the garden and wage running battles against marauding utterly of themselves. of my labours treated with such grace and ILLUSTRATION ADRIANA PICKER The chefs we work with get it. of a tree to the we find ourselves spending countless hours When I find myself at one of his tables he wind or the sheer vastness of my to-do on our knees. writes Paulette Whitney. My garden. and I begin each lizards. nurtured soil develop more flavour. I forget the slog of pulling thistles in recognise that plants grown slowly in carefully but celebrated. I grow a beautiful. trying. Matt. and for the kind of farm delivers. rather than I think taking the time to really understand friend’s restaurant and see the literal fruits resorting to chemical weaponry.” he says. in this most beautiful of ways. with conviviality and wine. WorldMags. Because of my dogmatic approach. fine-leafed form a garden. My co-farmer. Just like a walk around my garden. or tell you how shark’s fin of rosemary with a milder. and this makes me truly happy. I feel lucky that many isn’t.

Remaining relevant has attracting staff to live there was impossible. Many tree-changers have become our most valuable suppliers. there was for. Visit lakehouse. were relaxed in their hospitality and had a reefer jackets of chief executives. they’re dreams. and a knowledgeable sommelier. # delivered to the kitchen. a work in progress. cousins. I’m delighted Lake House maintains its place among them. never faddish. Was there a demand for such a was the first espresso machine in the region. Georges Blanc channelled the Our restaurant. A revolution was afoot. place? Were there any others like it? And. more like. Unlike their city High-stepping Jimmy Choos. tails? Tick. still the beating heart. Locals Against all odds. proceeds will be donated to the local Country usually in search of Devonshire teas.COM.au. and a look at the dining room might suggest artisan suppliers. with people such as Stephanie Alexander leading the charge. The countryside was still a desert. and twig camp fires and Drunk on my experiences of France’s and wild damsons. including a miserly bank palpable “sense of place” I hoped to emulate. having sorted think we were doing? All reasonable twice-cooked goat’s cheese soufflé. and boxes of produce from the market more than 100 staff. what the hell did we shiraz-glazed Castlemaine pigeon and dish? Tick. a black-tie clientele” that walked through the newly was conviviality and celebration. they now come to us from all over was to be the site for the restaurant of my no expectation of finding good food. Drive an hour out of most of our capital cities nowadays and you’ll be sure to come across a decent café. Freshly through the chemical manipulation of foods. The “discerning but the core of the experience in those places To mark 30 years of Lake House. balance. toasted of course) were welcome at the table. they are rural destination restaurants. come for birthdays and anniversaries. Fortunately. his garden. Her celebrated Melbourne restaurant offered good-natured service and promoted named Australian produce rather than reproducing European haute cuisine. disconnect between what I had and what sandwich seekers. I suspect. Yes. we began construction on an eroded Roger Vergé was celebrating tomatoes from young people save for a proposal dinner. why not? Moreover. In Fire Authority. there was considerable craft on the for the industry.AU WorldMags. 70 GOURMETTRAVELLER. Like us. It was 1979 when we bought the sandwiches or steak and three veg. Ours Australia and the globe. quinces weeds as garnish. however. and better infrastructure encouraged people to move to the country. restaurants are regularly the recipients of accolades and awards. not the box-ticking sort. south-facing block that no one else wanted. a cellar of note In France. short skirts gardens and flower-filled interiors. a quirky general store or Always adventurous. local trout and eel were stone assemblages on dinner plates. I ignored the on offer. with economic sustainability for restaurants such as ours still a long way off. all planted orchard to our front door were stars notwithstanding. has grown into a small hotel and spa with PHOTOGRAPHY MIA MALA MCDONALD village of Daylesford was about 20 per cent. foraged mushrooms and chestnuts. WorldMags. set in beautiful gardens There were no local trained staff and gardens of Provence arrived still covered in with a pristine lake. I was rewarded with a sack of potatoes. When city As for that discerning clientele I wished denuded.com. supercilious service and badly duplicated classical French fare. fulfilling their dreams on small My sense of place organic allotments or raising rare breeds. It would take the development of the wider region and persuading people to look for things in their own backyard rather than seek them out in Italy and France. career staff. but “grand” was never People often ask me about our “market” I wanted. It probably sounded grand to the interested in adventure but sceptical of fads. enabled us to prosper. Australia. Ancient grains? Tick. every meal a celebration – a cellar door. questions that we didn’t think to ask. the great regional French restaurants and extraordinary body art jostle with the Ambitious? Idiotic. car-wreck-covered paddock that folk ventured out on country drives. children (and dogs. we were breeding inhospitable city restaurants full of pomp. The proliferation of good suppliers came even later.net . Namely. testicles. plates and pride in knowledgeable service. dew at Jacques Chibois in Cannes. if My ambitious opening menu featured Tendons. Unemployment in the then down-at-heel cooking of his grandmother (La Mère Blanc). as ever. Michelin event is being held on New Year’s Eve. despite difficult times When I advertised for local produce. And Lake House remains. rural restaurants resonated the eclectic population of another planet. beautiful with me for that reason. what we were about. Obscure peasant not. Australia’s regional destination for 30 years Alla Wolf-Tasker has honed her Lake House ethos. as consumers became interested in the provenance of their food. a discerning clientele.net THE PIONEER COMMENT Alla Wolf-Tasker of Lake House in Daylesford.

The glittering dining room camomile and spiced apple. Exotic fragrances filled the air at a Gould. Far right: buttermilk panna cotta with orange and cinnamon jelly. Top centre: Vikki Moursellas. After being welcomed with a special reader dinner at Stokehouse City White Negroni based on gin infused with in Melbourne. Right: Ben and Mish Lilley. making for a designed by Stokehouse head chef.” WorldMags. there’s a Twinings infusion to enjoy every day.net . and White Negronis made with gin infused with camomile and spiced apple. Sense appeal Twinings Infusions were the inspiration behind a bespoke menu at a flavour-packed dinner and spirited soirée. Oliver memorable Twinings-inspired evening. AN AUSTRALIAN GOURMET TRAVELLER PROMOTION WorldMags. or soothing herbs. with orange and cinnamon jelly ended They also featured on the menu specially the dinner on a high note. and Orange and Cinnamon. guests were was decked out with floral arrangements treated to a four-course menu of vibrant featuring the star ingredients of the two contemporary Australian dishes. Camomile and grand finale of buttermilk panna cotta Spiced Apple. “Whether it’s invigorating fruits and spices. The latest Twinings infusions.net CELEBRATION TIME Above: Karstan and Maxine from The Block.

Viva la Margarita Of course. sombreros embroidered with metallic thread and black-velvet paintings of winsome señoritas shared wall space with seashell-framed mirrors and photos of famous customers such as John COCKTAIL HOUR Wayne and Sharon Tate (who. and everybody. full stop.AU WorldMags. and to start wondering bottle [ie. customer was alcoholic concoction of various citrus juices and chilli What is a real Margarita? It’s made with tequila.COM. All other props topped with iceberg lettuce and canned vegetables – stylist’s own. this potent Mexican learnt – was the “secret ingredient”. Stockists p175. exact figures are hard to come by. power but perfectly balanced. as it happens. ordered more often than the Martini and representing something in the neighbourhood of 20 per cent of all mixed drink sales. the thought of one of lime and salt or small glasses of sangrita. and more frequently consumed. In Mexico. at the old Café Annie in whose palates have not been hardened by the Houston. than the Margarita.net . more than friends were having and what I got was a revelation.) and wide.” Ha! Today. gaudy place. I discovered the Margarita – or a version of it. which this obviously was. There are many. the Brave Bull (tequila and Kahlúa on the rocks) and the Tequila Sunrise (with orange juice and grenadine) – a drink made famous by the wistful Eagles song and the Mel Gibson-Michelle Pfeiffer movie of the same name.net them the Bloody Maria (a tequila Bloody Mary). if you’ll pardon the Stil tumblers (front and back centre) and Ramon napkin macabre aside. my early visits to El Coyote. were Margaritas. with imports of the agave-based spirit jumping 61 per with the unmistakable grassy flavour of agave shining “theI grabbed cent between 2002 and 2012. and fresh lime juice. El Coyote before her murder by the Manson family). at once sweet. (The that he called juice) The spirit is otherwise found in a drink called International Bartenders Association has decreed that for another the Paloma. I noticed on my first visit. book Wines and Spirits. which is simply the liquor mixed cent orange liqueur. ” In America. have obviously evolved. It didn’t take me long to decide that the PHOTOGRAPHY RODNEY MACUJA STYLING AIMEE JONES considerably less. among I would add that ideally the drink should be made with 100 per cent blue-agave tequila (silver 72 GOURMETTRAVELLER. both and limes) from Mud filled with minced beef and shredded cheese. The Margaritas at El Coyote weren’t just frothy. which good news far and lime juice. tart and salty. These. 29 per tequila cocktail. that “Tequila is not a drink that I first had a real Margarita six or eight years after is ever likely to be popular among North Americans. But no tequila cocktail is more famous. accompanied by nothing more than turned into fruit punch. Small nest bowls (with salt stuff – crisp-shell tacos and soggy enchiladas. at any rate – in the 1960s at a California-style Mexican restaurant in Hollywood called El Coyote. so delighted powder (some variations add tomato or pomegranate orange liqueur. said to be the country’s most popular the proper proportions are 50 per cent tequila. we have figured out countless ways to work tequila into cocktails. I learnt. In 1968. Pineapple-juice sweet. I had to try one. but that and spread the with grapefruit soda (Jarritos is a common brand) yields a drink that is too sweet for my tastes. got tequila] and the straight. seemed to be drinking frothy yellow-green cocktails served in heavy glass tumblers. Christmas lights sparkled all year long from the rafters. Glass lemon juicer (part of The food at El Coyote was generic Americanised jug set) from The Bay Tree. tostadas Australia. and I was immediately seduced. Today. WorldMags. I also discovered invention seduced Colman Andrews from the first sip. This was a lively. 12 million cases of tequila are sold in the US annually. a real grown-up drink. Very sweet. because pineapple juice – as I later At once sweet. the traditional way to drink tequila was how a serious drink. and 21 per cent lime juice. but Margarita was pretty much the perfect cocktail. ate the last dinner of her life at in red from Country Road. I’d ordered one because that’s what my Texas unrestrained use of chili [sic]. they were sweet. El Coyote’s Margaritas makes my teeth ache. But I was a novice to the world of cocktails at the time. in his Time-Life were delicious. in fact. the novelist and gourmand Alec Waugh barely of legal drinking age. It is the most popular cocktail in America. and I thought the things (brother of Evelyn) was able to write. in shots. a tart non. eventually that they were frothy because they were mixed in huge batches and dispensed from a bar gun. Australia consumes through. tart and salty. full of wrong it doesn’t figure in the top 10 countries for tequila sales.

visited Tijuana. a centimetre. 1998 at the age of 91. James Graham. Cointreau and lime juice. but a possibly not named for anyone at all. tart and salty. 2 Let the shaker sit for 2-3 minutes. An alternative version credits bartender Carlos Makes 1 Orozco at Hussong’s Cantina. but noted there were at least eight possible origin The Margarita stories for the drink. “She’s from Mexico. and lime juice. which is just a little bit leaner and more for exactly the same cocktail. in the second ingredients that sometimes get into it – is no more edition of his Bartenders Guide: How to Mix Drinks or a Margarita than a blend of crème de cacao and The Bon-Vivants Companion. popular with visiting the tequila. Add Room in Galveston. there was a popular cocktail called the Brandy glass. 1953. with the unmistakable grassy flavour of agave shining through. Ensenada. She was determined to the exterior.” read the copy According to the eminent cocktail historian David introducing the drink. a real grown-up drink. appeared in Esquire in December thickener. and The earliest published recipe for the Margarita. appeared in William smaller and tarter than the more conventional variety. the Mexican knock-off of the better-known French One problem with all these stories is that a recipe product. Margarita may also be taken straight).” Graham was the story goes. daughter of the German ambassador to orange-flavoured liqueur Mexico (Hussong’s founder was a German immigrant Juice of 1 juicy lime (reserve one squeezed and the place was popular with Germans travelling or lime half) living in the country). while entertaining friends at her lime half around the rim of a large Old Fashioned glass or white wine glass. and where. Margarita. pour salt into a small bowl to a depth of about who always claimed to have come up with the idea. When King died in Even if the Daisy had similarities to the Margarita. # WorldMags. she once told a reporter. are very difficult to find. the Los Angeles Times described what does this tale have to do with the name of the her as “the possible eponym of the Margarita cocktail”. Another story maintains that Finely ground sea salt the Margarita was first served in 1948 at the Balinese 1 Three-quarters fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. although under a different herbaceous). What I got was a revelation. This recipe produces a grown-up cocktail. Cointreau or some other particularly times because some of those first drinks were so bad. dubbed the drink the Margarita. by the way. “and she is lovely to look at. Rub the cut surface of the reserved squeezed also in 1948. if you like (the with rum and other spirits before settling on tequila.net 73 . who is said to have first mixed it in 1938 at Graham he was attempting to mix a Brandy Daisy his restaurant south of Tijuana in Baja California. it after the singer Peggy (Margaret) Lee. drink? The Spanish word for daisy is – margarita. naming it for Margarita A splash of Cointreau (preferably) or other Henkel. south of Tijuana. who was famous for a cocktail he had One story attributes its creation to one Carlos accidentally invented. Madden.” But who invented the of a small-town newspaper in Iowa. invent an entirely new cocktail. which are name and without the salted rim. He called it the Picador and made it with tequila. It called for brandy. not a spiked fruit punch for drinkers with teenage palates. the proprietor exciting and provocative. and juice from Mexican limes. a banana vodka is a Martini. The legendary Jerry Thomas. J Tarling’s Café Royal Cocktail Book. but 1937. In the latter 19th classic Old Fashioned glass or even a small wine century. Then there’s Dallas socialite Margaret Sames. once a common ingredient in cocktails). hint of rum. a popular bar in 60 ml (2 shots) 100 per cent agave tequila. WorldMags. who is said to have silver (plata) or reposado concocted the drink in 1841. and when? As is so often the He found himself at a bar run by an Irishman named case with classic cocktails. as gum syrup (sugar syrup with gum arabic added as a far as anyone knows. Wondrich. lemon juice.net DRINKS or reposado). tequila] and the honour of a former actress and dancer named Marjorie customer was so delighted that he called for another King. Texas.) It should be served in a glass Cointreau. where a bartender supposedly christened shake vigorously about 50 times. the 19th-century sweet-and-sour mix or agave syrup or lemon juice bartender known as “the father of American mixology”. Since the name Marjorie doesn’t exist in Spanish. Any version involving pineapple juice – or Daisy. nobody knows for certain. the Tequila Daisy. published in (These are grown in small quantities in Australia. in when “I grabbed the wrong bottle [ie. in 1936. 3 Meanwhile. at once sweet. Madden told Herrera. Herrera came as close as he could and possibly the first to import the Margarita to the US. then dip the rim into the salt to lightly coat vacation home in Acapulco. then strain in the “I was pushed into the swimming pool quite a few contents of the shaker. and spread the good news far and wide. Señores. with a salted rim – not one of those silly glasses that Another problem is that the Margarita was quite looks like an inverted sombrero. or Rose’s lime juice or any of the other extraneous published a recipe for the drink in 1876. strong and tart.” good-quality orange liqueur (I’m partial to Controy. cover the shaker and celebrities. and experimented 4 Add 2 or 3 fresh ice cubes to the glass. orange curaçao liqueur.

might bring back memories. reliable labels If you’ve been drinking mostly trendy. ” the next big thing – the most obscure grape. As wine correspondent for this luscious first sip of Brown Brothers spatlese lexia in its pub drive. I love scanning the floor-stacked cartons and understocked fridges in pub drive-throughs. but Vacation vino they’re also available in wine stores and pubs and supermarkets right across Australia. But. Summer holidays. d’Arenberg McLaren Vale grenache blends – are considered benchmark combinations of variety and region. very good value – drinking to be had. this selection could be flashback territory for you. # 74 GOURMETTRAVELLER. Some of these wines – Pewsey Vale Eden Valley riesling. I have a soft spot for checking out holiday bottle shops. especially in places I’ve never been before. regional wines in large enough quantities to ensure competitive prices and wide distribution. remote seaside town. But it’s good to take a month off. a sparkling wine that’s been quietly “maturing” and improving in the corner of a fridge for the past 18 months. I spend 11 months of the year looking for tall brown bottle with its distinctive yellow label. There is still plenty of very good – and opposite. Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes marsanne. well-known cabernet with the same price tag it’s had the past five vintages. As I say. small-producer “ I love scanning the from quality producers that you should be able to find on shelves and in fridges no matter where you are. You’re in a de rigueur on a lazy Wednesday afternoon in January.net . drive-through for wine supplies. So you’ll be thinking about shop.net magazine. a shiraz with a few years’ bottle age that might be buggered. and I’m almost wines I ever drank and paid attention to (as opposed guaranteed to find at least one of them. A glass of rosé with lunch might not be socially acceptable on a Monday in March. bearded blokes selling boutique bottles. to just drinking without thinking) were from this old understocked To be honest. you’re miles from the nearest hipster bar or point on holiday – inviting the new friends you inner-urban indie wine merchant. and they’re all less than 20 bucks a bottle. throughs. and browsing the narrow wine aisles in country-town supermarkets. Hence the imperative release artisan natural wines here. perhaps And you’re bound to be entertaining at some PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW FINLAYSON & WILL HORNER ILLUSTRATION TOM BINGHAM mercifully. Australian wine lovers are blessed by the fact that a number of our big companies – many of them still family-owned – produce good. made at the beach or the pub to an impromptu Friday The only place to buy wine is the local hotel bottle night barbecue. Some of the wines might have some sentimental attachment. I can still remember the fridges in wine loop sometimes.DRINKS WorldMags. the hottest new winemaker – and I know. too. Lots of big brands with long histories. to relax and just go with the mainstream wine flow. I first tried it when I was on holiday.AU WorldMags. or perhaps an outpost quantity not just quality when you pop down to the of one of the supermarket liquor chains. You’ll probably be imbibing favourites can be found from Woy Woy to Woop Woop. but might be sensational. No to keep the per-bottle price down. given the less than ideal storage conditions. you usually want to hear about what’s trendy and obscure and hot. There’s always something there to surprise you – perhaps a current vintage of a slightly posh. I have selected a top 10 on the page opposite.COM. Price is a particularly important consideration Holidaying in a one-shop town? Max Allen’s summer when you’re on holiday. magazine. and at that low price is definitely worth taking the risk. a little more than during the normal working week. to spend time in the land of the familiar. my friend. You’ll see lots of familiar names on the page Fear not. there’s always something worth drinking. perhaps. No limited. distinctive. floor-stacked is the mental shortlist of wines I carry with me when Brown Brothers does that for me. Mount Pleasant Hunter Valley sémillon and shiraz. Some of the first cartons and I’m in an unfamiliar bottle shop. but it’s almost It’s January. it’s a bit of a relief to be out of the north-eastern Victoria winery. or licensed general store. And you’re thirsty. as a reader of this And if memory serves. This wines recently.

Barbecues. traditional red peach syrup.com. barbecued snags.net 75 . and 10 William is probably my favourite. can’t you? To one of the perfumed and luscious. 2014 Angove Nine Vines Rosé $16 old-fashioned. $14. 375ml. fruity 4 ageworthy cabernet reds popping up in bottle sauvignon and shiraz shops everywhere. widely available organic South The Windy Peak range offers ustralian wines. (02) 9572 6666. South East Asian-influenced barbecues 2012 De Bortoli Windy Peak – look out for the company’s range of Chardonnay. $12 Browns are also good at pushing adventurous wine BLACK BEAUTY ONE FOR THE SNAGS styles into the wider world. SIXPENNY What’s on pour now? 2010 Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Théo riesling works well with our food. I can recommend the juicy pinot PRETTY AS A PEACH and curranty cabernet 2013 Brown Brothers merlot (both also Yarra) and Orange Muscat & Flora the vibrant Heathcote shiraz. Wine Library. exceptional-value regional Victorian varietals. 83 Percival Rd. $17 edge of bringing alternative A dead-set Aussie classic. And this as this fresh. Barbecue drop? Marcel Lapierre Raisins Gaulois. Drink with vintage – classic Coonawarra cab and. are reliable buys. Grenache. fresh grigio. CRISP ALTERNATIVE 2014 Yalumba Y Series Pinot Grigio. $40 Holidays. Drinking holes? Monopole.au MAYA KERTHYASA WorldMags. turnip noodles and mussels with a Montilla-Moriles Gran Barquero oloroso. Banjo Harris Plane from Attica. Tahbilk’s As much as I love the new and slurpy red tempranillo. it also ages superbly. 2012 Wynns Black Label 2011 d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original. warm and great with summer pudding. WorldMags. savoury. Your sommelier crush? Old boss Franck Moreau. Hangover cure? Champagne. $18 Their prosecco and moscato Cabernet Sauvignon. red-fruity grenache- Hunter red is exactly the based rosé – particularly good with VALUE VARIETY kind of wine I’m after. Best pairing? Kangaroo consommé. As well 5 as this fine. The fact it’s widely available decent bottle of fizz. mellow and Angove is a name to watch. if blends: robust. wave of young. and I admire Stu Knox of Fix St James. like of their game and 2012 was a cracking first. $25 CELLAR STAPLE Yarra Burn has long been 2014 Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling. McLaren Vale. and still one of the best. minimal-intervention stuff at Don Wines. citrusy Yarra 1 chardonnay.50 rosé. Deliciously lime-juicy when bottle shop looking for a young. you’re lucky. $20 my default setting when Every Australian wine cellar should include a few bottles of I find myself in an unfamiliar this tucked away in a dark corner. sixpenny. slurpy. $14 good. using top-quality Upper Yarra grapes and sold with six years’ age. and this is At some point you’ll want to drink posh. generous. at this price it’s an absolute steal. savoury vermentino bottle age. As well 2 earthy shiraz. Sausages. rich 2011 Mount Pleasant Philip look out for the sangiovese and toasty with a few years’ Shiraz. You can see where a very pretty sweet wine: Drink this: the Wynns crew are at the top I’m heading with this. $13 ON FOR YOUNG AND OLD 3 The Y Series is at the cutting 2014 Tahbilk Marsanne. Q &A DAN SHARP WINE INSIDER: DAN SHARP. you may find it closer to $30.netHOLIDAY TOP DROPS RELIABLE FIZZ 2008 Yarra Burn Pinot 8 Chardonnay. Winemakers to watch? New Zealand’s Alex Craighead is making fantastic. d’Arenberg. Made and is often discounted to around $16 is a bonus. PLEASING PINK are also stalwarts. NSW. fragrant when young. sometimes I yearn for classic. Sixpenny. Stanmore. grapes and styles to a this estate-grown marsanne mainstream audience. Daniel Graham at Sigurd in Barossa. old-fashioned. As is deliciously crisp and MELLOW CLASSIC well as the crisp.

asks AA Gill. You are never the world you turn left or right on the plane. confused and jammed. swathes of California and Florida. all baths have rose petals in them. In the unreal actually living in the places you travel to. The trouble. unsupervised world – what you would gold on the map and then the real world – the I’ve enjoyed the benefits of both gold and blue probably call the real world. garrisons in unsavoury lavatories. pandas are not endangered – they’re stand outside the airport to drive you to the centre of town. phone cards and $2.net . but would call the unreal world. Most of the world doesn’t travel. We could paint further than a sigh from recreational It’s more than the vanity of six inches extra an old globe with the real and the unreal water.AU WorldMags. anecdotes. world. You could also split the world into those who are pulled and those who are pushed. famine and violence. they got to see all of it they wanted to. their exhausted children Long Island. In the gold those who turn neither left nor right. the south of waiting – in queues for buses. Most of the world are pushed – pushed out by despair. You’ll spend a lot of time just massaged sense that you’ve already arrived world includes the Maldives. and for very different reasons. turn-left folk who have been going abroad two or three times a year are beginning to stay at home. are going to see a what you actually get to see is a sustaining are not alike or akin to the experience of world that is crafted and edited and curated and comforting familiarity. clutching their slim leather wallets could paint that denim-faded indigo.000 In both the gold and the faded-blue world in their own ways. memories. They are. containing passport. and smoothed and disinfected. equally unreal. Mustique. As in. for the water and your food. We are the tourists. Could we possibly be seeing the end of international travel as we know it? You already know that we live in The real world is a place where the ubiquitous. because there is a third category of people: the best bits served up as canapés – what you every meal is a relaxed experience. In the real world. Those that turn right. they emergency taxi money. spas. neither is more real than the other. the fear of actually getting there is beginning to 76 GOURMETTRAVELLER. It’s much less so now. The world is finite and over 50 years. It is an indicator of France. The ability. where the traveller is the star. are going to see and barbed-wire outposts in Cape Town and I’m happy to say that. St-Barths. to sell you the bottle of water or a small carved elephant. drought. splodges of will see a lot of the inside of spectacularly when you get off. the blue world. but to repeat familiar old things: skiing. just for them. They are taking fewer and shorter holidays and they’re not going to see new things. violence. resorts. And and their preloaded tablets. We could paint these bits capacity. it moves. with their bulging Thailand and Singapore and Hong Kong. I’ve travelled both – left and right. When you go to visit traveller is a spectator. ILLUSTRATIONS TOM BINGHAM & LAUREN HAIRE (PORTRAIT) But the prevailing trade-winds of tourism are shifting. for the fun to before you’ve even left. The gold.net Going nowhere fast Has the need for a passport to see the world become passé. world. The unreal of Nescafé. the insecurity. and you what sort of world you’re expecting to visit Tuscany. hectic. Mexico and the Bahamas. the wherewithal and the time to travel was once a measure of affluence and success. The cachet of being well-travelled is waning. half the west coast of Italy and start. The gold world gives the traveller goitres of luggage.COM. you’ll drink a lot knee room and better cutlery and a carefully worlds delineated like empires.AA GILL IS AWAY WorldMags. The unreal world is swarming with pandering. they are the migrants. in a professional a crowded. We in the rich first world are the pulled world – pulled by the vision of new and exciting exotic people. Your every whim will be a left and right world. places and lunches. Kenya and Morocco. carry-your-own-bag world – we travel and I can authoritatively tell you that turn left. And those that no-leg-room. poverty.

have for news from the world. their jobs.net . who has done his Eastern thing. I never imagined we’d down. But Western tourism. we don’t around the world cheaply and then to get want to turn left or right. have sex new. You can get to passé and a bit of a bore never entered my more places. that “out there” would be actually being there. the world to their desks. WorldMags. The gondolas of far less sympathetic than it ever was in Venice and the boutiques of the Rue de Rivoli our lifetime. New York and Aspen and just throw the The internet has brought everything in rest back. somewhere exotic and fine for gap-year kids to get drunk. But another shifting from being a Western thing to an journalist of about my age. most annoying travellers. exchange greetings. I’m you don’t have to take off your shoes at the still as awestruck as I was the first time airport and you can sleep in your own bed. that we’d rent a couple of to get a deeper sense of satisfaction from islands and a bit of Tuscany and Provence. # WorldMags. The old globe is taken over from the Americans as being the looking and sounding more frightening. the weather’s always dependable. to sit down to Saint-Tropez and the Maldives have been drink tea with them. Gold people are being trained or told and get tattooed in. we just want to lie around it comfortably. that to meet new people. taken over by the Russians. I picked up my passport and people still There’s also the truth that tourism is want to read about “out there”. And on one level I’m fine with it. pointed to see the rest of the world for the first time out that this has been a bad couple of years are now the Chinese who. Virtual travel isn’t The idea that the world might become the real thing. are now crowded with the new money and When we started travelling we believed the appetite for experience and privilege that we could heal the place simply by turning from the East. It turns post-war generation was the ability to get out we didn’t want to be surprised. get a massage and read our phones.net outweigh the pleasure and excitement of get bored with it. but it’s cheaper. in one survey. would weave us all together in a Gordian knot We may be witnessing something I never of travellers’ tales and good wishes. The people who are desperate fair share of turning left and right. The greatest gift of my apparently it didn’t work out like that. of fond thought I would get to see: the end of photos and profound experiences. head. Just as the sunlounges of up.

Ben Shewry’s 40-seat Attica pop-up usual on the morning of 4 November as a slice of was a spectacle in striking white. At the of fabulous food. The highest point in the Birdcage. This year was garden.” how to turn it on in the Birdcage. end to a day light-bulb vases dangling from tree branches. Lexus knows feeling. among them longstanding favourites came through who’d never been to Attica and were GH Mumm. From the outside the structure was all pale-grey As the day progressed and the Champagne corks Attica chef Ben Shewry. “It was a very small menu but it was just to give a This year’s enclosure was made up of 17 private taste. Emirates. and Birdcage. Melbourne interiors group Mim abuzz with punters eyeing off the track. fancy frocks and trifecta fever. # 78 GOURMETTRAVELLER. with their towering head experience. Its marquees from Around the corner. chased down Birdcage designed by zing to the second floor: a light-filled flower bomb nicely with mini cones of gelato from the ice cart Mim Design Studio. Eco-architect Joost Bakker lent his decorative and chicken burgers made the rounds. Lavazza and Lexus. Flemington sparkled a little brighter than back of the room. were out in force hits – the salted red kangaroo with bunya bunya. the glamour-packed corporate village of the his pretty caramel-injected pukeko eggs among them. Classic cheese CEO Sean Hanley. renowned portrait photographer MANE EVENT Clockwise from above: Cup Days past have been designed by the likes of (and sometime GT contributor) Hugh Stewart shot racegoers gather on the Hecker Guthrie. “There were a lot of people who marquees. model. The menu gave a snapshot of the Attica Melbourne Cup.net A day at the races Maya Kerthyasa frocked up and donned her hat to see the race that stops a nation and enjoy some of the finest food and fit-outs that Flemington had to offer. from the rails to the members’ stands. while inside pastel-green and pink kept popping Neil Perry’s Burger Project counter Joost Bakker and Lexus walls made for a calming sanctuary from the folly became the hottest spot in the pavilion. really excited by what they saw. second floor of the restaurants by Neil Perry to daybeds where weary On the next level up was Jamie Durie’s lush rooftop Lexus pavilion decked racegoers can recharge their batteries.net . WorldMags. That was a really good A key player for more than a decade. it was out with roses in no less extravagant. The punters. the fun tunes and spring sunshine branches by sustainable pavilion from the futuristic lines of Lexus’s new NX in no short supply. purple and metallic sunshine shone down on the race of races: the hues. finery and fun. of colour replete with a ceiling of roses in recycled nearby.COM. and sharp edges. A fitting. actually. with Shewry presenting some of his greatest gear. where things got really exotic. PHOTOGRAPHY CHLOE PAUL architect Joost Bakker. the Lexus pavilion at the outside.” Shewry says. the booze light-bulb vases suspended from Design Studio drew inspiration for the three-level flowing freely. But it was the citrusy King George whiting wrapped in paperbark. and certainly filling.AU WorldMags. really into it. People were really. with everything from pop-up black-and-white portraits from a pop-up studio. Spring Racing Carnival.

Jamie Durie’s rooftop garden. pukeko eggs.WorldMags. GH Mumm. WorldMags. Karl Stefanovic and Neil Perry at the Burger Project.net 79 . Bakker’s ceiling roses. the gelato bar. salted red kangaroo with bunya bunya. Rachel Finch. Lee and Emma Freedman.net EVENT RACING PLATES Clockwise from top left: Attica’s King George whiting in paperbark. Francesca Packer Barham. Luke Ricketson and Kate Waterhouse.

SUBSCRIBE WorldMags. festive Cool yule esserts . punches & snacks.au/agt/m1501gmt or call 136 116 and quote M1501GMT WorldMags. PRAWN TOASTS.i3 5 HOW TO COOK BIG CUTS ON THE BARBIE FROM charcoal lamb shoulder TO SPIT-ROASTED PORCHETTA pe ssue Hurry. Jeremy Strode’s crowd-pleasing buffet ideas ad mince pies English spread & perfect HESTON TODAY’S TRAVEL AGENTS BLUMENTHAL’S (AND WHY WE ROAST TURKEY Holiday entertaining SECRETS LOVE THEM) Summer barbecues: the new grilled chicken.net . smoked trout and ES. fun iced treats & satay masterclass COASTAL FLAVOURS MORNINGTON PENINSULA’S FINEST DINING BALI LIKE A LOCAL THE BEST STREET EATS Chermoula prawns Coconut pavlova with passionfruit jam and lychees Fried mortadella sandwiches HAM IT UP ES: Kylie Kwong’s hone y&t + CHEFS’ FAVOURITE GLAZ COT & BROWN SUGAR. DRINK UP ILLA-ROSE LAYER CAK n Less tha VACATION E VINO & PERFECT MARGARITAS GOOD GRILLING $5r. cool coleslaws. canapés.net NOW GET 15 ISSUES FOR THE PRICE OF A 12-MONTH SUBSCRIPTION as feastin g n Chris: tm + desserts. Marti BEN SHEWRY’S APRI pin maple syru p PLUS LOAD S MORE TAIN IN STYLE RT. TO SUBSCRIBE: Visit magshop. offer ends 25 January 2015 Already a subscriber? Simply extend your 12-month subscription with this offer and receive 15 issues of Australian Gourmet Traveller.com. VAN fennel pie.

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it all adds up to finger-lickin’ fun. RECIPE ALICE STOREY PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE STYLING GERALDINE MUÑOZ Bird call You can’t beat chicken for versatility on the barbie – fragrant with spice or given a tangy Southern spin.net JANUARY 2015 food Summertime? Time to get grilling – it’s the barbecue issue. Freeze frame Fruity icy-poles. WorldMags. a master of wood-fired cooking. Lay down the slaw A barbecue spread isn’t complete without coleslaw – we’ve crossed the globe for fresh takes on this summer essential. The big picture Feeding a crowd or just feeling hungry? Whatever the case. Coming up rosé A pair of Sydney fashion identities launch their own wine at a waterside lunch. size matters – go large on the barbecue with cuts of Flinstone proportions. gives us a taste of what he cooks in his own backyard – even the drinks get a good grilling. Smokin’ ace Lennox Hastie.net . buttermilk soft-serve and a luscious frozen layer cake – iced desserts have never been hotter. WorldMags.

but not all slaws are created equal – here we’ve crossed the globe for fresh takes on this summer essential. WorldMags.net . RECIPES & FOOD STYLING EMMA KNOWLES & LISA FEATHERBY PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING LISA FEATHERBY Red cabbage and apple slaw with speck and caraway dressing (RECIPE P88) WorldMags.net lay down slaw A barbecue spread isn’t complete without bowls brimming with coleslaw.

Stockists p175. WorldMags. mango and coconut slaw (RECIPE P88) PAPAYA SLAW Brooke Thorn pink bowl from Koskela. WorldMags.net Green papaya. Blue bowl from Mud Australia. Batch “Peasant” bowl from Simon Johnson.net . RED CABBAGE Bowl from Koskela. All other props stylist’s own.

VIETNAMESE SLAW Hayden WorldMags. Glasses from Ikea. JAPANESE SALAD Hayden Youlley ceramic board from The Design Hunter. Batch blue bowl (background) from Simon Johnson. Vietnamese-style slaw with pickled carrots WorldMags. All other props stylist’s own.net .net Youlley white slab board and white cup from The Design Hunter. Stockists p175. Pale blue bowl from Mud Australia.

Prep time 20 mins Combine cabbage in a bowl with spring onion. is available from Asian grocers. then transfer to 1 garlic clove 1 kg Chinese cabbage (about ¾ small head). a serving dish and top with edamame. thinly sliced 1 carrot. so make a double batch (or even a triple) – it’s serving. toss lightly and serve scattered with fried shallots. plus wedges to serve 6 spring onions. Prep time 20 mins. stir to combine. with the We could eat this slaw by the large bowlful. Drizzle with dressing to taste. stirring to dissolve sugar. also called tulasi. but those made with firm. then transfer to a sterile container (see cook’s notes p176) and refrigerate overnight. herbs and sliced shallots. blend yuzu juice and pickled carrot This slaw would make an ideal match for barbecued egg yolks in a food processor then. cool to room temperature.> 2 red or golden shallots. Add carrot. other cabbages and should be dressed just before mayonnaise forms. Note Holy basil. to serve Yuzu mayonnaise Pickled carrot 60 ml yuzu juice (see note) 140 ml rice vinegar 3 egg yolks 50 ml fish sauce 300 ml olive oil 2 tbsp caster sugar ½ birdseye chilli. but it’s calamari or a thinly sliced rare-cooked wagyu steak. Add lime juice and 60ml pickling liquid from the carrots. 3 Drain pickled carrots and toss in a large serving bowl with cabbage. Pickled carrot is a great fridge staple. Rinse it and Japanese cabbage salad pat dry before use. ½ cup each (loosely packed) Vietnamese 1 tsp finely grated ginger If yuzu is unavailable. Season to taste and set aside. then set aside. HOT TIP Most coleslaws are best eaten fresh for optimal crunch. and 50ml water to the boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. 2 tbsp lime juice. Serves 4 200 gm podded edamame add mayonnaise and toss to coat. p176) and refresh under cold running water. crisp cabbage can be made ahead since it holds well. 2 Pound garlic and chilli to a paste with a mortar and pestle. WorldMags.net Vietnamese-style slaw with Japanese cabbage salad 1 For yuzu mayonnaise. cook 5 mins (plus pickling) Serves 6 vinegar. motor running. and will keep for several weeks. ginger and a large pinch of sea salt flakes. bring ingredients. except carrot. Start this recipe a day ahead to pickle the carrots. coarsely chopped. see cook’s notes best made a day ahead.net 87 . thinly sliced 3 tsp sushi vinegar (see note) from Japanese grocers and Asian supermarkets. substitute a mixture of two mint. Just salt the cabbage first (¾ tsp sea salt to 200gm cabbage) for an hour to draw out excess liquid and prevent the dressing getting diluted. to garnish Fried shallots (optional). to go beforehand. remove from heat. thinly sliced Note Sushi vinegar and yuzu juice are available 250 gm Chinese cabbage. thinly sliced Baby shiso leaves. WorldMags. but you can have everything else ready 2 Blanch edamame (1 minute. sliced into thin ribbons on a mandolin 1 For pickled carrot. sesame 1 birdseye chilli. gradually add oil in a thin steady also excellent served alongside barbecued lemongrass Chinese cabbage has a more delicate leaf than stream until it’s all incorporated and a thick chicken or beef. too. coriander and holy basil (see note) 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds parts lemon juice to one part orange juice. or to taste thinly sliced seeds and shiso leaves and serve.

70 gm walnuts.net . chicken or prawns. cut into julienne on reserving liquid and sultanas separately. Transfer to a sterile container 1 For tamarind dressing. toss to coat and serve within an hour scattered with coriander. until alternatives. 125ml water and 1 tsp sea salt to the boil 100 gm light palm sugar serve scattered with sourdough croûtons. 40 gm tamarind pulp (see note) toss to combine. fennel 80 gm miche rye sourdough or other rye tossed with juice of ½ lemon to prevent fronds and parsley in a bowl with speck. such as pink lady or Granny Smith. 1 tbsp vincotto 2 apples. WorldMags. season to taste and set aside. thinly sliced on a mandolin and Combine raw cabbage. apple. thinly sliced on a mandolin and crisped in iced water. cook 6 mins (plus soaking) (plus pickling) slotted spoon and set aside on paper towels to Serves 6 Serves 4-6 (pictured p84) drain. Prep time 30 mins. season to taste and 1 For pickled cabbage. thinly sliced 2 green mangoes. Set 1½ tsp caraway seeds 90 gm (½ cup) coarsely grated fresh coconut croûtons and nuts aside on paper towels to 2 tbsp each lemon juice and unfiltered apple 25 gm (1/4 cup) dried shrimp (see note). finely chopped 2 kaffir lime leaves. stir to 40 ml fish sauce. or to taste and Parmigiano-Reggiano. then pass through a coarse sieve (discard solids). stirring occasionally. sugar. add speck and fry. 600 gm white cabbage. cook 10 mins seeds in the last minute. whisk ingredients in 2 tsp Dijon mustard 4 red shallots. stir to dissolve sugar. 2 Combine remaining ingredients in a large bowl. wine. 1½ tbsp white wine vinegar 55 gm (1/4 cup) caster sugar Prep time 30 mins (plus soaking) 90 ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 fresh bay leaf Serves 6 (pictured p85) 200 gm red cabbage (about ⅓). stirring to Juice of 2 limes. soaked in cold fronds reserved water for 5 minutes. Add cabbage and onion. This slaw works well with barbecued a twist on the good old sausage sizzle. browned and crisp (3-4 minutes). add pickled cabbage and dressing. or to taste combine. sultanas and soaking Tamarind dressing liquid. add sourdough and walnuts. The addition of parmesan here gives this fresh vinaigrette-dressed slaw a little Italian flair. heat 50ml little Italian flair. to serve Green papaya. finely grated 200 ml unfiltered apple cider vinegar The sweet and sour flavour of this slaw would go White wine vinaigrette 100 ml dry white wine really well with barbecued fish. thinly sliced remaining ingredients. cider vinegar soaked in water for 10 minutes 3 For white wine vinaigrette. WorldMags. 1 garlic clove. Tip the oil from the pan into a bowl.net Red cabbage-apple slaw with speck (see cook’s notes p176) and refrigerate to chill. remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Pound palm sugar until smooth with a mortar and pestle. ½ white onion. Speck and caraway dressing a mandolin 2 Melt butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Stuff it into olive oil in a small frying pan over medium-high cheeses. Transfer to a serving dish and bay leaf. 3 Drain pickled cabbage well (discard bay leaf). Just sourdough. walnuts in a saucepan over medium-high heat. add lime juice. adding caraway meats. firm aged and pickled cabbage for textural contrast. cut into julienne on 1 Soak sultanas in a bowl with sweet apera on a mandolin a mandolin and vincotto until plump (30 minutes). Drain. Play around with other dry. add 100 gm sultanas 200 gm red cabbage (about ⅓). squash pulp with your fingers into the liquid to dissolve as much as possible. Manchego or pecorino would both be good soft rolls with barbecued sausages and mustard for heat. fennel. Note Dried shrimp and tamarind pulp are available from Asian grocers. 150 ml olive oil 1 cup coarsely torn coriander. drained Coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley. tamarind water and 80ml water. diced to serve until golden and toasted (4-6 minutes). bring vinegar. plus extra. cut into julienne 4 Combine cabbage. coarsely chopped 1 baby fennel bulb (130gm). coarsely chopped quartered. When cool enough to handle. cut into small cubes discolouring before serving. Italian slaw and caraway dressing Pickled cabbage will keep for up to a week. mango and 1 cup thinly sliced flat-leaf parsley Pickled cabbage coconut slaw 100 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano. thinly sliced a bowl and season to taste. onion. thinly sliced 2 green papaya.> dissolve sugar. Parmesan gives this fresh vinaigrette-dressed slaw a This slaw uses a combination of crunchy raw cabbage 2 For speck and caraway dressing. and stir occasionally 100 gm speck. add tamarind dressing. Remove speck with a Prep time 20 mins. 60 gm butter. ¼ small Spanish onion. fish sauce. soak tamarind pulp in 80ml boiling water to soften (5 minutes). drain and cool. thinly sliced. thinly shaved toss to combine and serve. season to taste and whisk 100 ml sweet apera or Sherry on a mandolin to emulsify. particularly pork. and parsley in a bowl.

TEXT PAGE Hayden Youlley cup from The Design Hunter.net Italian slaw ITALIAN SLAW Plate from The Bay Tree. Stockists p175.net . H2O glass from Riedel.WorldMags. All other props stylist’s own. Tongs from Ginkgo Leaf. WorldMags.

reserving a few to serve. then 300 gm pineapple (about 1/3). is available towel. thinly sliced ½ cup thinly sliced rocket Buttermilk dressing 120 ml buttermilk Jicama slaw 1 Combine jicama. stems and all. finely chopped 3 For buttermilk dressing. Transfer to a a baking tray and roast until skins darken and Serves 6 as a side platter and serve. 2 green jalapeños. Here. rub off skins.net . or even makes a meal in itself. cut into julienne broccolini. also known as yam bean. cut into julienne from Asian grocers. Season to taste and 2 tbsp lime juice drizzle dressing over salad to taste. very finely chopped that holds well in a slaw. Add spring onions. radish and pineapple 1 tbsp each lemon juice and white wine Jicama is a tuber used in Asian and Mexican dishes in a large bowl. # 90 GOURMETTRAVELLER. WorldMags. slice the cabbage a little more thickly. crunchy texture 2 Whisk citrus juices and olive oil in a bowl. pinches of sea salt flakes (this helps balance 1 Preheat oven to 180C. shave florets into bowl. but bear in mind that finely cut cabbage tends to wilt more quickly when it’s dressed. 2 kohlrabi. kohlrabi. It’s sneakily addictive. 2 Thinly shave broccoli stalks lengthways on a 6 red radishes.COM.net HOT TIP Investing in a mandolin is highly recommended for making finely sliced coleslaw. Spread hazelnuts over Prep time 30 mins the sweetness of the pineapple). 3 spring onions. This slaw would go very well drizzle onto salad and season with two generous with grilled seafood. You have been warned. cook 6 mins Serves 4-6 as a side 80 gm hazelnuts 1 small head broccoli (about 300gm). shake ingredients 80 ml (1/3 cup) orange juice in a jar until well combined. this slaw makes a great partner for seafood. other vegetables can be treated in the same fashion. toss lightly 2½ tbsp olive oil to coat and serve slaw scattered with reserved hazelnuts. nuts are fragrant (5-6 minutes). cut into florets. ½ cup coarsely chopped mint rocket and hazelnuts. again lengthways. cut into julienne mandolin into a bowl. Tip into a tea 3 jicama. ½ small garlic clove. Prep time 20 mins. and toss vinegar with a taste that sits somewhere between an apple or to combine.AU WorldMags. cut into julienne (see note) Note Jicama. It has a firm. tossed in a tangy buttermilk Jicama slaw dressing. For coleslaw that holds for longer. This is particularly good with barbecued chicken. coarsely chop and set aside. add mint and jalepeño. 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Asian pear and a radish. thicker stalks reserved Crisp and refreshing with exotic notes of pineapple and 175 gm (1 bunch) broccolini jalapeño. we’ve opted for the green goodness of broccoli and broccolini. Broccoli and spring onion slaw with buttermilk dressing Although slaws usually involve cabbage.

WorldMags. Salad servers from Ginkgo Leaf.net . All other props stylist’s own. Broccoli and spring onion slaw with buttermilk dressing MORE ONLINE Hop online for even more creative summer sides.net BROCCOLI SLAW Brooke Thorn pink bowl from Koskela. such as barbecued corn with chipotle salt and sour cream.com. Small jug from Mud Australia.au WorldMags. Platter from Mud Australia. Stockists p175. and coleslaw with buttermilk-lemon mayonnaise: gourmettraveller. JICAMA SLAW Bottle from Spence & Lyda.

WorldMags.net rosé What happens when two of Australia’s hottest fashion identities get together with a winemaker to bottle their passion? Step into this sunny Sydney seaside lunch and find out. RECIPES RICHARD PURDUE WORDS MAYA KERTHYASA PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE FOOD STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD WorldMags.net .

chervil and confit lemon (RECIPE P94) WorldMags. dill. Romy Frydman. Bambi Northwood-Blyth.net Spiced quail with poppyseed wafers and cranberry (RECIPE P96) SYDNEY SLICKERS From left: Cisco Tschurtschenthaler. Scallop tartare. Danielle Ragenard and Shanina Shaik. WorldMags.net .

thinly sliced on a mandolin Bambi are close friends. like this French style. fresh. the scion of the Merivale hospitality group. the first of which took place at Single Prep time 10 mins.” A 60-strong crowd of media. fold in herbs and lemon rind. in the cool of the night. chervil and at Merivale CEO Justin Hemmes’ waterside home in Sydney’s eastern suburbs. ice-cold and just relaxing. “because we’re only selling it 1 lemon by the water this year due to limited supply.AU WorldMags. then we thought there have been a 300 gm sashimi-grade scallops. enough to handle. Single is in a bowl. “We were drinking French rosé and thinking ‘how come Australia doesn’t have a really great rosé?’” says Northwood-Blyth. “It’s a zingy.” olive oil. “We decided Serves 6 as an entrée (pictured p93) to do a lunch in Sydney by the water. company and a side of sunshine.net .” Bird in Hand celebrated the release of Pour les Amour with a breezy lunch Scallop tartare. “So we decided we should come up with a wine that’s light and fresh. he says. Pour les Amour. WorldMags. confit lemon The event was part of a series of launches. then tear the rind into small pieces. of course. really. Nugent and his team brought the couple’s vision of a dry. transfer birdinhand. Much like the wine itself. day or night. “Dan and 1 radish.net DAN SINGLE AND STEPHANIE BAMBI NORTHWOOD-BLYTH W hat does a passion project look like? If you’re fashion designer Dan Single and model Stephanie “Bambi” Northwood-Blyth. “I jumped at the chance when they asked. 94 GOURMETTRAVELLER. in Australia. really. coarsely chopped to the public.” 3 tsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp each coarsely chopped dill and chervil Hemmes.” says Northwood-Blyth.” he says. it looks something along the lines of a bottle of rosé. Set aside until cool Richard Purdue – accompanied. seldom opens his home ¼ cup chervil. sunny spread from Merivale’s group executive chef tender (30-40 minutes).” says Single. was born. cook 30 mins and Northwood-Blyth’s New York apartment a few months before.COM. roe and lot of great things done in restaurants and we really just wanted a beautiful intestine removed home. The idea to make a wine came to Single and Northwood-Blyth as they honeymooned on a houseboat in Vietnam last year. Season with sea salt and extra-virgin rather more forthright: “Any time. French-inspired rosé to life by harvesting the grapes. then cut in half and scrape out The dishes Purdue has shared with us here are best enjoyed with merry flesh and pith with a spoon (discard). exciting wine and I think it RICHARD PURDUE matches their personalities. but in this instance the exception was easy to make. which 1 Boil lemon in salted water until skin is very was fuelled by a light.com. “It was a love project. by plenty of Pour les Amour. friends and family joined the celebration. dill. from the beginning. and the most beautiful home in Sydney is Justin’s.” The couple got in touch with Andrew Nugent from Adelaide Hills winery Bird in Hand (not coincidentally the producer of the sparkling wine served at their wedding) and six months later. The result? A crisp.” says Single.au to a platter and serve topped top with radish. easy-to-drink drop. “Have it with 2 Slice scallops into 5mm-thick discs and place a friend or a lover.

baby fennel and blood orange Prep time 15 mins. cooking them for a minute less. to serve 1 Cook prawns in a large saucepan of simmering salted water until pink (2 minutes). Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and season with sea salt to taste. ADAM ASHLEY-COOPER 3mm-thick slices Poached king AND ANNA SCRIMSHAW 100 ml lime juice prawns and tomato 3 tsp extra-virgin olive oil mayonnaise ½ cup each (firmly packed) coriander and mint 2 baby fennel bulbs. fronds coarsely chopped 2 blood oranges. see note) 200 ml thick mayonnaise 30 gm tomato paste Juice and finely grated rind of 1 lemon Extra-virgin olive oil. then peel. shaved across the grain.net 95 . juice reserved (see note) 1 Marinate snapper in lime juice for 15 minutes. segmented and chopped. WorldMags.net ANDREW NUGENT SHAIK AND JUSTIN HEMMES Snapper ceviche. season to taste and refrigerate until required. 2 Combine snapper with remaining ingredients and serve immediately. Note If large prawns are unavailable. drizzle dressing over prawns and serve with tomato mayonnaise on the side. use 12 x 60gm prawns. sliced across the grain into FROM LEFT: SINGLE. and devein. 3 Combine lemon juice and rind with extra-virgin olive oil. cook 15 mins Serves 6 300 gm sashimi-grade snapper fillet. skin removed. Snapper ceviche. Note Substitute Valencia or navel oranges if blood oranges are unavailable. drain and cool (5-10 minutes).> WorldMags. 2 Whisk mayonnaise and tomato paste in a bowl. cook 2 mins Makes 6 6 large uncooked king prawns (about 125gm each. Poached king prawns and tomato baby fennel and mayonnaise blood orange Prep time 10 mins. leaving tails intact. then drain.

until they start to 30 gm white sugar golden (10-12 minutes). Strain and reserve cooking liquid.5cm mayonnaise.” Poached mussels. HEMMES AND NUGENT Poached mussels. open (2-3 minutes). then 2 For tomato dressing. Place quail on tray reduce heat to low and simmer until mixture has spring onion in a bowl. in Australia. Pour tomato dressing over mussels. ¼ tsp fine salt and 1½ tbsp chilled finely diced and diced water in a food processor to form a dough (2-2½ 1 spring onion. scatter Roll up quail in plastic wrap lengthways and tie 4 To serve. cut out 10 discs with over medium-high heat. Remove mussels from pan as ¼ tsp ground allspice 3 For cranberry sauce. chilled poppy seeds. then slice quail into 1 cup (loosely packed) watercress Micro-celery. WorldMags. top poppy-seed wafers with a little with watercress and allow flavours to infuse ends to form a tight sausage shape about 3. Poach in saucepan at 62C until 1 pinch saffron threads (ask your butcher to do this for you) opaque and cooked through (2 hours). then refrigerate to chill (1 hour). deseeded and 20 gm unsalted butter. thinly sliced into rings 75 gm (½ cup) plain flour. process butter. then a slice of quail.5cm-thick discs. a thin jam-like consistency (25-30 minutes). add 30ml reserved mussel skin-side down in a row and slightly overlapping. tomato. add mussels. tomato. cook 3 mins Prep time 45 mins. plus extra minutes). saffron and basil “We decided we should come up with a wine that’s light and fresh. cook 2 hrs 10 mins (plus cooling and resting) (plus resting. Cool on a wire rack. Tomato dressing Poppy-seed wafers 2 For poppy-seed wafers. to serve 1. oil and lemon juice. combine tomato and a baking tray with plastic wrap. 1 Bring wine and saffron to the boil in a saucepan 100 gm dried cranberries Roll dough to 1mm thick. in diameter and 16cm long (allowing for ends to sauce and micro-celery. Preheat oven Cranberry sauce to 175C and line a baking tray with baking paper. skin on be trimmed). Turn out onto a floured surface and 1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil for dusting knead until smooth. remove mussel meat from shells and 70ml water to the boil in a small saucepan over reserve. Remove 1 kg large black mussels. stirring continuously. debearded Thick mayonnaise. cover and 30 ml red wine vinegar a 4. # 96 GOURMETTRAVELLER.net MAURICE TERZINI (LEFT) AND CESARE FROM LEFT: SINGLE. flour. 1 large ripe tomato.AU WorldMags. saffron Spiced quail with poppy-seed wafers and basil and cranberry sauce Prep time 20 mins.5cm round cutter and bake on tray until pale cook. to serve Trim ends to remove plastic. and stir to combine. a little cranberry (15 minutes) before serving. 1 Heat a large saucepan of water to 62C and line medium-high heat. chilling) Serves 6 as a side Makes 10 (pictured p93) 180 ml dry rosé 3 double quail breasts. scrubbed. season with salt to taste and scatter with thyme. 1 tsp thyme and cool slightly. NORTHWOOD- BLYTH. bring all ingredients and they open. French style. then wrap in plastic wrap 1 tsp lemon juice 1½ tbsp poppy seeds and refrigerate to rest (2 hours).net . Refrigerate until required. shaking pan occasionally.COM. liquor.

net .net WorldMags.WorldMags.

crushed avocado and soft tacos (RECIPE P105) WorldMags. WorldMags. RECIPES & FOOD STYLING EMMA KNOWLES PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING VANESSA AUSTIN FOOD ASSISTANT MAX ADEY DRINK SUGGESTIONS MAX ALLEN Smoky chilli chicken with barbecued corn. or given a tangy Southern spin. fragrant with spice. it all adds up to finger-lickin’ fun.net You can’t beat chicken for versatility on the barbie – boned. butterflied or skewered.net .

Stockists p175. Pancetta-wrapped barbecue chicken (RECIPE P105) WorldMags.net . All other props stylist’s own.net PANCETTA CHICKEN Ikea Lönsam carafe. WorldMags. CHILLI CHICKEN All props stylist’s own.

WorldMags.net JERK CHICKEN Wire drink caddy with glasses from Loft. All other props stylist’s own.net . Board painted in Dulux Pickford. including a Hawaiian-style huli huli and some Thai-inspired magic: gourmettraveller. FRAGRANT CHICKEN Brooke Thorn pink dipping bowl from Koskela.au WorldMags. Stockists p175. All other props stylist’s Jerk chicken legs own. with rice and peas MORE ONLINE We’ve got two-dozen more grilled-chicken recipes to keep your tongs busy.com.

8kg). combine oil. Place in a non-reactive pan. and set aside to soften slightly (12-15 minutes). cover with strain off any excess liquid. plus wedges to serve 8 chicken Marylands. minced to paste with 3 Meanwhile. Barbecue. mix in garlic paste. refresh. Start this recipe a day ahead to marinate the chicken. until browned and cooked onion. are pierced (10-12 minutes. such 50 ml extra-virgin olive oil delicatessens and Middle Eastern grocers. and ground fenugreek minutes). chillies. turning often.net with sumac onions Jerk chicken legs with rice and peas Rice and peas is a traditional Jamaican accompaniment to many dishes. lime juice and orange juice. Serve hot with Olive oil. The peas traditionally used are pigeon peas. pita bread and extra sumac. ground ginger through and juices run clear when pierced (20-25 taste. but 1 small Spanish onion. cooling) Serves 6-8 6 fresh bay leaves. then place in a bowl with rice. spring onion. Wipe (1 hour). extra-virgin olive oil and remaining become quite dark. and adjust the quantity to your taste. The list of spices here may seem overwhelming. juice of ½ process to combine. see cook’s notes p176).net . Transfer to a tray. ginger. fenugreek low and simmer until tender (25-30 minutes). Barbecue. coarsely torn 4 spring onions (including half the green parts). Season to ¾ tsp each ground allspice. Reduce heat to 2 tsp each coriander seeds and cumin seeds cinnamon. combine and return to the boil. to serve (optional) Drink suggestion Sour cherry ale. but we’ve used sweet garden peas instead. Juice of 1 lemon. then refrigerate overnight in an airtight will still do the trick. the resting juices. Warmed pita bread. peppercorns. cumin seeds. until browned and 1 tsp salt ingredients and ½ tsp sea salt in a bowl. spread rice on a tray to cool to room temperature 2 small dried red chillies 2 Heat a barbecue to medium-high heat. mint and coriander Note Dried rose petals are available from select Wine suggestion Earthy full-bodied red. butterflied. as Barossa mataro-mourvèdre. bring coconut milk. resting. Prep time 40 mins. 2 For rice and peas. mix well cooked through and juices run clear when thighs 1 chicken (about 1. season. for drizzling lemon juice in a bowl. curry powder. blanch peas until tender 2 tsp dried rose petals (see note) excess spice mixture from chicken. allspice. oil. stir to Serves 4 with a mortar and pestle. for sumac onions. Rub paste all over chicken when the bird is marinated overnight. the side would be lovely. then 5 cardamom pods chicken. The flavours will be best Finely grated rind of 1 lemon. skin slashed twice on each Olive oil. A bowl of thick Greek yoghurt on 1 Dry-roast (see cook’s notes p176) coriander and container to marinate. thinly sliced into rings spices and 1 tsp sea salt in a food processor until rest assured they combine to create the most fragrant 2 tsp sumac finely chopped. then add rice. Meanwhile. spring curry powder turning occasionally. drain and 3 tsp each sumac.> WorldMags. or to taste plate with sumac onions and serve with chicken. squeeze half the 3 Heat a barbecue to medium heat. discard chilli and 5 cloves plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to marinate. then cool and finely grind over medium-high heat. marinade from chicken and drizzle with a little 5 garlic cloves. ground cinnamon and little oil and season to taste with salt. coarsely chopped 3 habanero chillies. for drizzling Rice and peas 500 ml (2 cups) each coconut milk and chicken stock 1 habanero chilli. halved. this is ok). stir to combine and refrigerate until required. Prep time 30 mins. sugar and lime juice and chicken you’ll come across. stand for 10 minutes. Combine with sumac. then rub all over Remove from heat. then pile onto a rice and pea salad and lime wedges. standing) fragrant (1-2 minutes). Wipe excess ½ tsp finely grated nutmeg lemon over and set aside to rest (10 minutes). too. Add soy. but a few hours pieces. Fragrant chicken WorldMags. coarsely chopped (see note) 1½ tbsp coarsely chopped thyme 2 tsp ground allspice 2 tsp coarsely cracked black pepper ½ tsp each ground cinnamon and finely grated nutmeg 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp brown sugar Juice of 1 lime. thinly sliced 50 ml olive oil 50 ml lime juice 35 ml orange juice Fragrant chicken with sumac onions Sumac onions 1 Process bay leaves. cook 45 mins (plus marinating. thyme. stock. Note Wear disposable gloves to handle the ½ cup each (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley. cloves. including smoky grilled jerk chicken. 1½ tsp black peppercorns and nutmeg. the chicken will skin slashed twice on each half 4 Toss herbs. halved 190 gm (1½ cups) brown rice 200 gm frozen peas 3 spring onions. chilli. cardamom. drizzle with a (1-2 minutes. cook 30 mins (plus chillies and rose petals in a small frying pan until chilli and 1 tsp sea salt to the boil in a saucepan marinating.

cover potato well with cold 100 ml olive oil Preheat a barbecue to high. seal garlic and 3 tsp sea salt flakes in a non-reactive chicken and drain the yoghurt. lemon rind 8 chicken thigh fillets. white pepper. coarsely chopped until smooth.net . overnight for flavours to develop. transfer to a saucepan and simmer until slice and set aside to cool. bring to the boil ½ cup (firmly packed) fresh oregano oil and barbecue until slightly blackened and skins over medium-high heat and cook until tender 1 tbsp dried Greek oregano (see note) split (8-10 minutes). tip yoghurt into a muslin. unpeeled. while still warm. Marinate in fridge container. coarsely grated Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon. thinly sliced through and juices run clear (10-15 minutes). mix vinegar. or to taste Shake oil and lemon juice in a jar. 1½ Lebanese cucumbers. turning occasionally until cooked 5 Heat a barbecue to medium-high heat. lemon tomato yoghurt and village salad and garlic in a food processor until smooth. Process in a food processor when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife (15-20 1 lemon.> 102 GOURMETTRAVELLER. from one bowl.net chicken with tomato yoghurt and village salad Southern barbecue chicken drumsticks with mop sauce and potato salad This Lexington-style barbecued chicken gets extra tang from the trademark vinegary mop sauce it’s basted with while it’s cooking. onion. sour cream. Add potato and herbs and stir to coat well. discard any mop sauce remaining 500 gm Greek yoghurt with chicken and tomato yoghurt. Start a day ahead to marinate the Pour into a large snap-lock bag. Prep time 30 mins. 1 spring onion. for extra bite. season to taste. turn to coat well. Add chicken. cook 30 mins (plus marinating. cook 25 mins (plus for 3 hours or preferably overnight. season and process to combine.AU WorldMags. brown This twist on souvlaki uses whole lemon in the marinade half the vinegar. 2 tbsp red wine vinegar thickened (6-8 minutes). cover Prep time 30 mins. combine lettuce. add 1 To marinate the chicken. then stir through 3 Mix mayonnaise. a zinfandel. season feta and serve salad (8-10 minutes. peel. pass through a fine sieve (discard minutes).COM. skin on drained yoghurt with garlic and lemon juice. scrubbed 80 gm mayonnaise 40 gm sour cream ½ Spanish onion. coarsely chopped leaves sit under the flesh side of the chicken. but we’ve gone for drumsticks for their sheer pick-up-and-eat deliciousness. Serves 4 lined sieve over a bowl. combine ingredients in a bowl. fresh and Greek oregano. season and juice and garlic in a large bowl and season to 16 fresh bay leaves to taste and refrigerate until required. finely chopped ½ cup each coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley and dill Mop sauce 185 ml (3/4 cup) apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp apple juice 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp hot sauce (such as chipotle) 1 tsp dried chilli flakes Lemon-oregano chicken with 1 Blend olive oil. add chicken. taste. season to taste and set aside in 2 separate bowls. cucumber. turning and basting occasionally with mop sauce 11/2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil mint and spring onion in a bowl and top with feta. cooling) Serves 4-6 375 ml (1½ cups) apple cider vinegar 50 gm brown sugar 1 tbsp dried chilli flakes 3 tsp ground chilli 2 tsp freshly ground white pepper 1 garlic clove. Start this recipe a day ahead to marinate the chicken. 1 garlic clove. and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or preferably draining. or to taste 1 garlic clove. potato salad and second bowl of mop sauce. and juices run clear when drumsticks are pierced Tomato yoghurt drizzle onto salad. You could use any chicken pieces on the bone. 2 For potato salad. marinating) 2 For tomato yoghurt. thickly 3 garlic cloves solids). Drain. 2 tbsp mint Barbecue. and massage chicken to coat. Cool. sugar. Drizzle tomatoes with salted water in a large saucepan. from bowl used for basting). 1 thick slice of Greek feta (about 100gm) 4 For village salad. until browned and cooked through Juice of 1/2 lemon. Lemon-oregano WorldMags. cover and drain overnight. ground chilli. chilli flakes. 1 iceberg lettuce. finely chopped 12 chicken drumsticks 1 kg kipfler potatoes. or to taste assyrtiko or Hunter sémillon. coarsely chopped onto skewers with a couple of bay leaves so the 4 For mop sauce. Serve hot with 6 vine-ripened tomatoes Note Greek oregano is available at delicatessens. Remove chicken from marinade and barbecue. Village salad 3 Remove chicken from marinade and thread Refrigerate until required. finely chopped Wine suggestion Crisp dry white such as Greek Wine suggestion Powerful spicy red such as Juice of ½ lemon. then.

net Southern barbecue chicken drumsticks with mop sauce and potato salad Drumsticks get the Lexington-style barbecue treatment with a good basting of tangy mop sauce. All other props stylist’s own. Brooke Thorn salad bowl from Koskela. LEMON-OREGANO CHICKEN Board painted in Dulux Fairy Pink.net . All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p175.WorldMags. WorldMags. SOUTHERN DRUMSTICKS Freshwater table from Domayne. Zinc tray from Loft.

net . you can skewer the chicken on thick bamboo skewers or chopsticks instead. Stir in remaining such as Alsace pinot gris. or you can put them under a hot grill). mint. but any plastic bag will do the trick. until golden and slightly charred on the Juice of 1 lime. scraped and soaked to ½ slightly underripe pineapple. coarsely chopped Coarsely chop. then marinate according to the recipe instructions. Barbecue chicken. for pineapple and coconut salad. especially when cooked over coals in the traditional way. If you can’t get sugar cane (available at select Asian grocers). Remove chicken remove grit Flesh of 1 young coconut from marinade and thread a piece of sugar cane 3 lemongrass stalks (white parts only).8kg). coarsely chopped rice vinegar Dressing can be made a day or two ahead. palm sugar and lime juice. but the Sugarcane chicken traditional som dtum is a beauty too. Begin recipe with pineapple and a day ahead to marinate the chicken. unpeeled fish sauce. then stir in lime juice. We’ve opted for the tang of slightly underripe pineapple in the accompanying salad. 50 gm fresh turmeric. unpeeled then add chicken and rub all over to coat. skin pestle. to serve 1 Pound peppercorns with a large mortar and edges (8-10 minutes). Cover and refrigerate vinegar and adjust to taste (it should taste salty. skin-side 1 tbsp finely crushed light palm sugar down. sweet and spicy). squeeze out the air. coriander and lemongrass in batches to is pierced (10-12 minutes). plus extra halves. and lime wedges. Place the chicken and marinade in the bag. cook 30 mins (plus marinating) Serves 4 1 tbsp white peppercorns 1 tbsp finely grated palm sugar ingredients. Tamarind sauce a medium paste. turning occasionally. coarsely chopped 1½ tbsp each lime juice. 2 red shallots. add to peppercorns along with 4 Meanwhile. 1 birdseye chilli. thinly sliced 3 Heat a coal barbecue to high. adjust to taste with extra lime juice. 6 coriander roots. coarsely chopped pestle to a smooth paste. char shallots and garlic coconut flesh. toss to 1 tsp roasted chilli flakes tender (4-5 minutes for shallots.COM. then pound with a mortar and Wine suggestion Full-bodied perfumed white. 8 garlic cloves. then transfer to a large bowl. Sugarcane chicken with pineapple and coconut salad Gai yang is one of our favourite barbecued chicken dishes. sour. coconut salad Prep time 45 mins. ½ cup each (loosely packed) mint and or a thick bamboo skewer through each side (this thinly sliced coriander helps keep it flat and makes it easier to turn 60 ml (1/4 cup) fish sauce 1 red shallot. butterflied. 104 GOURMETTRAVELLER. 120 ml fish sauce 2 For tamarind sauce. coriander and shallot in a 2 tbsp lime juice over an open flame. cooked through and juices run clear when chicken slashed twice on each half turmeric. tamarind sauce Pineapple and coconut salad garlic. garlic and sugar with a mortar and 2 garlic cloves. mix well. 2-3 minutes for combine and serve with chicken. pound chilli. drizzle with dressing to taste. fish sauce and fish sauce or sugar and refrigerate until required. Pound garlic. then turn and cook until 1 chicken (about 1.AU WorldMags. which ensures the marinade is in contact with as much of the chicken as possible. fish sauce and 2 tbsp tamarind purée well into the incisions. until large bowl. 30 gm finely grated palm sugar overnight to marinate. rubbing pestle.net HOT TIP One of the easiest ways to marinate a chicken (or any meat for that matter) is in a plastic bag. A large zip-lock bag is the best bet. Combine pineapple. WorldMags. seal and massage the marinade into the chicken through the bag. thinly sliced during cooking). 1 garlic clove.

outer 10 skinless chicken thigh fillets. Skewers and tongs. stir in remaining ingredients. or to taste colour quickly. stir to coat and refrigerate to marinate while you add onion and garlic and stir occasionally until cook the corn and make the crushed avocado. then stuff into chicken. and lime wedges. too. turning occasionally. Round artisan paddle cooling. Drizzle bowl. combine close the lid and roast. Tip into a 2 Heat a barbecue to medium-high heat. hearts halved. Wine suggestion Something rich but dry such as an orange (skin-contact white) wine. and here the barbecue does triple duty TURMERIC CHICKEN Prep time 30 mins. for crushed avocado. for drizzling 1 garlic clove. Just before truss legs with kitchen string. season to taste and toss to Drink suggestion A cold Mexican lager. crushed avocado 4 Discard citrus slices from roasting pan.8kg) Juice of 2 limes. finely chopped contain sugar or dark 80 gm coarse fresh sourdough breadcrumbs 50 ml olive oil spices. if the meat is 8 spring onions. but still needs cooking 1 tbsp Sherry vinegar coarsely chopped through. squeeze garlic cloves into pan juices and mash Note Pasilla chillies are dried Mexican chillies with a fork. cut kernels from Overlap pancetta slices across chicken breasts. season to taste and pan juices. until cooked through and juices run refrigerate until required. pale golden and tender (6-8 minutes). 1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Pinch of ground pasilla chilli 2 tbsp finely chopped thyme ½ cup coarsely chopped coriander Finely grated rind of 1 lemon and 1 orange 1 Combine 60ml oil. turning occasionally. finely chopped 1 small red chilli. 14 thin slices mild pancetta 100 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil. clear when thigh is pierced with a skewer (45-50 4 Warm tortillas on the barbecue. hazelnut and pistachio stuffing. little oil and season to taste. 2 Heat a kettle barbecue to medium-high heat. finely chopped 2 garlic cloves. basting occasionally with ingredients in a bowl. just cover the chicken with a metal Spiced barbecued chicken makes an excellent filling stylist’s own. trimmed and halved 3 corn cobs browning too quickly 50 ml olive oil 2 heirloom tomatoes. leaves coarsely torn large pieces then. Thread chicken pieces onto and spring onions with a little olive oil and barbecue skewers and barbecue. to serve move it away from the 1/2 cup (loosely packed) mint 12 corn tortillas direct heat. you can 1 tsp Dijon mustard Coriander sprigs. until cut-sides down until slightly charred (4-5 minutes). seaston to taste. hazelnut and pistachio stuffing Crushed avocado particularly relevant 2 tbsp olive oil 2 avocados. coarsely chopped when cooking with 1 small onion. mixing bowl. Add garlic to pan. This is Thyme.net . # combine. Serve alongside pancetta-wrapped chicken with extra pan juices to spoon over. heat garlic in a bowl and season to taste. leaves and mint. then place chicken serving. TIP a kettle barbecue. which tend to 20 gm coarsely chopped pistachios Juice of 2 limes. transfer to a bowl and set aside. finely chopped push them to one side 3 baby cos lettuce. finely chopped marinades that 2 garlic cloves. then wrap in a tea towel and 3 While the chicken is resting. spices and 1 For thyme. crushed avocado and soft tacos HOT tables from Domayne. If you don’t have corn. cook 1 hr 10 mins (plus by cooking the corn and tortillas. plus wedges to serve 1 orange and 1 lemon. Remove from tray and set aside to rest. cook 25 mins board from Dear Serves 4 (pictured p99) Serves 4-6 (pictured p98) These recipes can be September. If it’s unavailable. drizzle chicken with a top with coriander. add tomato and remaining olive oil and on the citrus slices spread in the base of a roasting lime juice. halved coriander coals are glowing. turning once minutes). 1 chicken (about 1. ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the bird. substitute over lettuce and spring onions. browned and cooked through (6-8 minutes). until tender and slightly scorched (10-12 minutes). and set aside to cool. Drizzle a little of the pan juices from Herbie’s Spices. Add oil. once the 1 head of garlic. Add chicken. Serve with tortillas. Olive oil. plus extra for brushing or coal barbecue. cobs. toss to combine and pan lined. drizzle lettuce hearts set aside to steam. When cool enough to handle. thickly sliced (grate 2 tsp ground pasilla chilli (see note) you’re using a coal rind first for the stuffing) 1 tsp each ground cumin and ground barbecue. WorldMags. then place in barbecue. juice of 1 lime. such as oxheart. cut into to create a cooler spot. (1 minute each side). corn salad. WorldMags. oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. All other cooked on either a gas props stylist’s own. If Stockists p175. then transfer to a bowl and set aside. for soft tacos. season to taste corn with oil and barbecue. 3 Meanwhile.net Pancetta-wrapped barbecue chicken Smoky chilli chicken with barbecued TEXT PAGE Freshwater This shows the versatility of barbecues. resting) Prep time 30 mins. vinegar and mustard and with a deep smoky flavour and are available season to taste. add torn lettuce smoked paprika.

RECIPES LENNOX HASTIE WORDS MAYA KERTHYASA PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT FOOD STYLING LISA FEATHERBY STYLING LYNSEY FRYERS-HEDRICK WINE SUGGESTIONS LOK THORNTON WorldMags. WorldMags.net . an art he mastered at renowned Spanish restaurant Etxebarri. Here he gives us a taste of what he cooks in his own backyard – even the drinks get a good grilling.net Buttermilk ice-cream with grilled blueberries (RECIPE P109) smokin’ ACE Lennox Hastie is fired up about cooking with wood.

net dinner plate from Country Road. All other props stylist’s own. Tapas WorldMags. Stockists p175. Pebble bowl from Mud Australia. ICE-CREAM Society “Tab FR” napkin in Bianco from Ondene.net . Grilled kingfish belly. fennel and grilled finger lime(RECIPE P109) WorldMags.KINGFISH Denim napkin from Spotlight.

” For those taming the flame for the first time. how long it’s been dried – that come Firedoor. “and I think it’s something that’s innately human.net . “I don’t think it was He keeps his food unadorned for the most part. to taste 1 Burn wood down to smouldering embers and medium-high heat (see box page 111). Grill lime cut-side down until just caramelised (1-2 minutes). It’s a simple. for barbecuing 1 lime. exciting way to cook. “That’s traditional cultures around what I think is the beauty of cooking with fire. Here. Add grilled lime juice and shake vigorously until well chilled. WorldMags. Society “Tab FR” napkin from finish than Peruvian pisco.” Hastie is in the midst of setting up for the March opening Hastie’s kind of cooking involves a lot more than flicking of his Sydney restaurant.” says Lennox Hastie. caution (“fire can be very addictive”).” “My fascination with fire very much began at an early age. pisco and sugar syrup in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. which has a naturally sweeter Grilled Watermelon Domayne. halved 1 eggwhite 75 ml Capel Oak Doble Destilado pisco (see note) 15 ml sugar syrup (see note) Angostura bitters. he shares human instinct.net LENNOX HASTIE L ennox Hastie thinks grill through the burning embers to lend “subtle aromas” to each markings are overrated. lime caramelises and mellows. Stockists p175.” flavour over a short period of time which is great for meat. prepared over the embers of temperatures and measurements to a place heavily reliant on around half a dozen different woods. for Hastie.” and. stirred until sugar dissolves. “It’s things I love to cook for my friends celebrated wood-fired eatery in the Spanish Basque Country. its age. Grilled Pisco Sour 108 GOURMETTRAVELLER. “Some of my favourite woods are fruit trees because they “I grew up with things underline delicate things that can be grilled. letting your instincts be your guide. He favours cooking over wood coals. preferably fruitwood.” was grown. is an ingredient in its own right with “Cooking with fire is hard work and requires a lot of unique characteristics – determined by type of tree. most importantly. Firedoor. cook 2 mins other props stylist’s own.AU WorldMags. then cooled. something with us a simplified offering – the type of open-flame cooking he came to master working in the kitchen of Etxebarri. STRACCIATELLA Sleek table from oak-aged Chilean pisco. relaxing.” he says. where it patience. then strain into a chilled short glass or a 250ml cocktail glass and finish with a couple of drops of bitters. Wood. the he enjoys at home. there was beautiful simple technique. “I also being almost charred into have a great love of grapevines. “but it’s ultimately extremely rewarding. and family. Hastie advises he says. All Prep time 10 mins. 1a/23–33 Mary St. They burn with a very intense submission on a barbecue.” he says. as the tangy (at back) from Chef and The Cook. 2 Combine eggwhite. so less sugar is needed. “Grilling the lime gives (left) and Riedel H20 whisky glass you more of a Pisco Sweet and Sour.” Cooler Ondene. Plate from Mud Australia. Makes 1 Seasoned hardwood. where he’ll serve his a gas switch. Surry Hills.COM. Note Capel Oak Doble Destilado pisco is available at select bottle shops. It’s such a the world. Sugar syrup is equal parts caster sugar and boiling water.” says Hastie. allowing plenty of time It’s a very primal element. though. Set aside to cool. dish. This recipe uses an Tio tumbler from Country Road (front). in looking at some of the talking. It goes beyond the comforts of recipes and exact signature hyper-seasonal food. “It’s the less-is-more approach.” encompass much more. complex in flavour and it only serves to technique that could enhance the flavour of the ingredient itself. If it’s unavailable substitute another (preferably Chilean) pisco. letting the until many years later I found quality of the produce and perfume of the embers do the that. NSW Grilled Pisco Sour “A good Pisco Sour is one of my all-time favourite COCKTAILS Stozle highball drinks.” he says.

for drizzling fat intact. well-shaken and a drizzle of olive oil. “Ideally it dry yet lean wine. embers and medium heat (see box page 111). 250 ml heavy cream (45% fat) 3 Grill. Add makes it ideal for grilling. finish with a pinch of sea salt. fennel scatter warm lime pearls over kingfish and serve. split. Grill watermelon slices until just caramelised (3-5 minutes each side). Split finger limes. 85 gm caster sugar season to taste with freshly ground black pepper season to taste and grill on both sides until lightly 400 ml buttermilk. Its soft richness is great chardonnay to the rescue – 2013 Jacob’s freeze until required (at least 1 hour). preferably fruitwood. until the leaves 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering 1 vanilla bean. fruity Serves 4 (pictured p106) burrata.” Serves 4 Serves 4 (pictured p107) says Hastie. fronds reserved 20 gm caster sugar 2 Brush lemon leaves lightly with olive oil. and serve. trimmed. WorldMags. Stracciatella grilled Stracciatella grilled on lemon leaves on lemon leaves “Stracciatella are strands of fresh mozzarella. and serve. turning occasionally. or buffalo mozzarella or 50 ml extra-virgin olive oil (a light. seeds scraped gently blister and cheese melts (2 minutes). charred and just cooked (1-2 minutes each side). then strain into a chilled tall glass. preferably fruitwood. Set aside to cool completely. skin removed. 2 Remove the rind from watermelon and dice flesh. bright taste of lemon leaves. ice-cream is best eaten within 4-6 hours. Place in a Boston glass or cocktail shaker.” 20 unsprayed large lemon leaves (see note) 600 gm wild kingfish belly. 2 Lightly brush kingfish with 10ml olive oil. divide among while whisking continuously until all incorporated.> WorldMags. vanilla bean and seeds just to the boil in a barbecue wine and they don't get much more 3 Thinly slice fennel on a mandolin into a bowl. cut into 2cm slices ½ lime 1 thin slice ginger 3 basil leaves 60 ml tequila.net Grilled Watermelon Cooler “Grilling watermelon intensifies the sweetness. preferably lemon. to release 1 For buttermilk ice-cream. in batches if necessary. Return mixture to pan and stir over low heat until Grilled kingfish belly. then should be served warm and rare. peeled. “The smooth pepperiness of Silver Patrón pairs admirably with the fruit. It’s a cheap and surprisingly buttermilk. bloodlines trimmed and freezing) 400 gm stracciatella. Whisk egg delicious than the 2013 Cillar de Silos “Rosado add remaining olive oil. cook 20 mins (plus chilling Extra-virgin olive oil. muddle with ginger. 4 egg yolks Remove from heat. Buttermilk contrasted by the slightly sweet crunch of the aromatic Creek Reserve Chardonnay. which is enlivened by the addition of fresh basil and ginger. shake well.” says Hastie. Grill finger limes. Prep time 20 mins.” says Hastie. Add tequila. top with ginger ale and ice. ribbon (1 minute). for barbecuing 240 gm watermelon. then gradually add hot cream 4 Slice kingfish across the grain. churn in an ice-cream machine. for barbecuing over the embers before rejoining your guests. Seasoned hardwood.” says Hastie. cook 10 mins “This is an ideal dessert to finish a summer barbecue.net 109 . 4 finger limes for barbecuing 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering embers 1 small fennel bulb. then Juice and finely grated rind of ½ lime Buttermilk ice-cream top with stracciatella.” Prep time 10 mins. and grilled finger lime Wine suggestion The richness of the kingfish Pass through a fine sieve into a bowl placed over “The natural fat that runs through kingfish belly and the aromatic oil of the finger limes needs a a bowl of iced water and chill (2 hours). such as Patrón Silver Ginger ale. it thickly coats the back of a spoon (3-4 minutes). serving plates along with fennel. fill with ice. be made ahead. preferably apple. lemon juice and rind. Finger limes release their aromatic oils when Buttermilk ice-cream with through your teeth – but don’t eat the leaf itself. and yolks and sugar until pale and mixture holds a de Silos” Tempranillo from Spain. cook 10 mins Prep time 20 mins. soaked in heavy cream. 400 gm blueberries and medium heat (see box page 111). grilled. crisp rosé is an ideal oils (1 minute). “The refreshing buttermilk ice-cream can Seasoned hardwood. so this great summer cooler doesn’t need any additional sugar. cut into 3cm pieces style such as arbequina or koroneiki) Seasoned hardwood.” Eat the cheese by drawing the leaf fennel. and complete the dish with their fresh zing. bring cream and Wine suggestion A dry. “They’re beautiful melted and infused with the green. leaving you only to toss the blueberries for barbecuing olive or citrus wood. fennel fronds and season to taste with sea salt. cook 5 mins Makes 1 Seasoned hardwood. to taste 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering embers and medium-high heat (see box page 111). basil leaves and juice of the grilled lime half.” grilled blueberries Prep time 10 mins. and grill the lime half cut-side down (1-2 minutes). Note Lemon leaves are available from nurseries. saucepan over medium-high heat.

Pebble Ondene (under blue cereal bowl in Ash napkin).net Wood-fired mussels. WorldMags. All other and espresso cup all props stylist’s own. Stockists p175. from Mud Australia. WorldMags. Society Australia. tomatoes and toasted sourdough MUSSELS Pebble Tam bowl from bowl from Mud Country Road. TEXT PAGE “Tab FR” napkin Bread plates in Ash in Antracite from and Slate.net .

fennel and a * It almost goes without saying. so style such as arbequina or koroneiki). thing for burning the wood to coals. * If you’re using a pit.” 6 Add tomato water and grilled tomatoes to embers burn hotter than the fire itself. Tap to check the mussels unseasoned wood with a high moisture truss are tightly closed. Serve immediately spooned tomato water has filtered through (2-4 hours). enclose the fire with fortified like Chamber’s “Rosewood” Muscadelle immediately cover with a deep. but check the transfer to a fine metal sieve and hold over hot pinch of sea salt in a blender or with a hand-held fire restrictions for the day in your area. wood-fired ovens are the perfect soft (1-2 minutes). embers and medium-high heat (see box. Tomato water Wine suggestion Tomato can be a tricky match. take over scoops of buttermilk ice-cream. such as cocktail chipped or damaged. 6 large ripe tomatoes. but. cook 20 mins (plus draining) mussels. such as Blackheath 1/2 cup (loosely packed) torn flat-leaf parsley then rinse in fresh water.com. trimmed. fruity open. Vic. Just before close the lid and adjust the vents so the wood serving. emitting smoke instead of heat. toss gently allow the wood to break down to glowing Serves 4 then divide mussels and tomatoes among warm coals with a light-grey coating of ash. Green or 250 gm ripe baby tomatoes. each one an (1-2 minutes each side). preferably orange. Firewood Company. Avoid using fire heat. coarsely chopped. cleaned (see note) pour over mussels. barbecue and set the grill 3cm above the embers. Too Seasoned hardwood. on iPad (pick up our digital edition via the Apple App Store) or online: gourmettraveller. clean. Carefully to slow the rate of burning. remove top shells. If you have fruit trees. 200 gm sourdough bread. tear * Light the fire early – at least 1½ hours individual vessel that pops open over the intense into pieces and set aside. coarsely chopped but Tahbilk's glorious Australian all-rounder * Woods vary in the amount of heat and 1 baby fennel. fronds reserved Tahbilk Marsanne. transfer mussels with tongs to a plate. as much of the liquor as possible. conserving * If you’re using a barbecue. Scatter with bread. “The sweet acidity of ripe tomatoes 5 Grill baby tomatoes until they just start to lighters or treated wood where there can counterbalances the salty mussel juices. and serve hot.” says Hastie. it’s a great match: take a great Australian Place mussels flat. Strain the liquid into a warm pan high a temperature and the subtle elements for barbecuing and whisk to emulsify. directly on the grill. tomatoes and on the half-shell. light the fire. Optimal 2 kg mussels. watch with the free viewa app. in batches. smouldering fire.net 111 . recognised suppliers.> WATCH & LEARN Lennox Hastie talks about the benefits of cooking with fire. before starting cooking. heatproof pan and fire-rated bricks to help retain the heat and and simply pour over lots of ice – it’s like the cook until just opened (2-3 minutes). garnish conditions are a slow. “Mussels work beautifully on the grill. two barbecues. sliced with fennel fronds and parsley. Remove the beards and scrub the shells erratically. serving plates. be a residual chemical component. use one for burning the wood toasted sourdough bread 4 Toast bread over the embers until golden and one for grilling. WorldMags. then transfer to a muslin-lined sieve set * Because they offer better control over start to glisten. 3 Spread embers evenly across the base of the care when you’re transferring them to Wine suggestion This will sound a little strange. Soak the mussels in salted water for it’s worth sourcing premium hardwoods from warmed 30 minutes to purge any remaining impurities. perfect iced tea. leaving mussel meat doesn’t burn too fast. embers. then pour warmed oil over. Wood mopped up by the toasted sourdough. discarding any that remain content is harder to light and burns 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil (a light. then rub with garlic. then season to taste and of the wood become tasteless. rolling blueberries in the sieve until they blender. * Ideally you should use seasoned hardwood 1 garlic clove. so Prep time 35 mins.au WorldMags. If you happen to have Wood-fired mussels. your grill or barbecue. which are soften (1-2 minutes). keep your prunings to use the next year. sugar melts and berries are just over a large bowl and refrigerate until 400ml airflow. blitz tomatoes. then 2 For tomato water. HOW TO PREPARE WOOD Toss blueberries in caster sugar to coat. halved Note To clean mussels. has nursed me through many barbecues – 2013 flavour they produce.net 2 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering embers and medium heat (see box page 111). discard any that are (at least 12 months old). right).

preferably apple. “Ask your butcher to leave the 100 gm lardo (or pancetta).” evenly charred (10-12 minutes). it has a great balance of texture and 1/3 cup (loosely packed) mint leaves flavour. thinly sliced rump cap intact. 4 small red capsicums (about 150gm each) 3 Grill lardo until it just becomes translucent Fortunately. halved). When cool enough delicious lardo here – 2005 Tyrell’s Belford to handle. cook 15 mins Serves 4 Grilled lamb rump with roasted Seasoned hardwood. Don’t variety such as picual or leccino). score the juicer to get enough juice from the pods. divide among plates along with grilled capsicum and dandelion. cap of fat that protects and bastes the meat as it to serve “The most pressing cooks.” says Hastie. 5 Grill dandelion until just charred (1 minute) and season with sea salt. cook 35 mins embers and medium-high heat.” Prep time 30 mins. be afraid of keeping Note For the best flavour.COM. the peas are protected by roasted peppers and their shells.2 for barbecuing kg fresh peas in the pod (see note) TIP cut of meat. a few simple tricks to Extra-virgin olive oil (a green. to serve serving bowls. When cool “That delicious or olive. Meanwhile. fat cap on and trimmed to a fine sieve.AU WorldMags. Wine suggestion The classic Australian aged the right temperature 2 Grill capsicum. turning says Lok Thornton. with just the skin off. Try the Guimaro Mencia Joven 2012. # 112 GOURMETTRAVELLER. use small peas that are reds in the Esky or 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering young. Combine juice with peas and mint when the mercury 5mm thick in a saucepan and season to taste. with more give towards the middle (15-18 minutes). mint and lardo “By grilling them whole. HOT peppers and grilled dandelion “Lamb rump cap or chump is an extremely underrated 1. turning occasionally. NSW. as it’s the rich 1 cup (loosely packed) young pea shoots.net 3 Grill lamb rumps. Keep warm. Season to taste. Ribeira Sacra. embers and medium heat. the flavour is sweet and intense. The sweet peppers and the bitter dandelion issue with wine serve as a simple yet effective accompaniment. until charred (1-2 minutes). or 2 at 500gm pods in a juicer (see note) and pass juice through becomes overblown each. Season well and set aside in a warm place to rest (8-10 minutes). there are 2 cups (loosely packed) dandelion or chicory (1-5 seconds. pod peas. WorldMags. peppery 4 To serve.” grilled dandelion says Hastie. Use a slow-extraction fridge for a little while. or add and using a small glass fat on top of the rump caps with a sharp knife and a large handful of fresh peas when juicing. “Although you don’t get a lot of juice from the pods. 6 Slice lamb rumps across the grain. which are imbued with the smoky embers.” 1 Burn wood slowly down to smouldering and barbecues is Prep time 25 mins. Sémillon. Grilled lamb rump with Grilled summer peas. then process pea crunchy red quickly 4 lamb rumps (250gm each. scatter with pea shoots and serve. depending on the heat). turning occasionally. preferably grapevines once. core and cut into quarters. peel. allows you to refill it at bring to room temperature. until skin is sémillon will handle both the chlorophyll and the more times. Wine suggestion The sweetness of the lamb fat here demands something special that can handle a little chill down to 12 or 13 degrees. for barbecuing enough to handle. Seasoned hardwood. sweet and tender. until charred and a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part reaches 62C and rumps spring back when pressed.” Serves 4 2 Grill whole peas in the pod in batches. grill peeled capsicum quarters until charred (3-4 minutes). drizzle with olive oil and serve.net . temperature control. divide peas and lardo among warm keep things cool. 4 Meanwhile. rises above 30C.

mint and lardo PEAS Society “Tab FR” napkin in Tisana from Ondene. Stockists p175.net 113 . All other props stylist’s own. Tam medium dip bowl from Country Road. David Mellor “Odeon” spoon from Hub. WorldMags. LAMB Society “Tab FR” napkin in Antracite from Ondene. David Mellor “Odeon” fork and knife from Hub.net Grilled summer peas. WorldMags.

size matters – go large on the barbecue with the likes of a spit-roast side of pork. very hungry? Whatever the case. WorldMags.net THE PICTURE Feeding a crowd or just feeling very. or T-bone steaks of Flintstone proportions. say.net . Ginger-glazed barbecued pork neck with chrysanthemum salad (RECIPE P117) RECIPES & FOOD STYLING LISA FEATHERBY PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAM MEPPEM STYLING GERALDINE MUÑOZ FOOD ASSISTANT NICK BANBURY DRINK SUGGESTIONS MAX ALLEN WorldMags.

WorldMags. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p175. Embroidered cushion from Caravan Interiors. All other props stylist’s own. Barbecued ocean trout with cucumber and labne (RECIPE P118) WorldMags.net . from left: screen-printed “Palette” and “Garden Floral” from Bonnie and Neil.net TROUT Orange print cotton napkin from Pigott’s Store. PORK NECK Cushions.

All other props stylist’s own. Spiced lamb with cracked wheat and green olive salad 116 GOURMETTRAVELLER. Vase from Milly and Eugene. Cushions. Chair by HK Living. Floor rug from The Design Hunter. embroidered cushion (from Caravan Interiors.AU WorldMags. BEEF Platter from Lived in Coogee.net .net LAMB Curved-edged platter from The Design Hunter. Napkins from Bonnie and Neil. WorldMags. from left: screen- printed “Garden Floral” and “Palette” cushions from Bonnie and Neil. Blue tumbler from Pigott’s Store.COM. Stockists p175.

turning occasionally. until blackened and tender (15-20 80 ml (1/3 cup) light soy sauce 3 garlic cloves. Remove to a fine paste 2 cups (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley. Wine suggestion A generous. toss to combine and refrigerate until required. at room temperature. halve eggplant 80 ml (1/3 cup) brown rice wine vinegar Cracked wheat salad lengthways and place in a colander to drain. for medium-rare. until.net . 2 For cracked wheat salad. supple McLaren Vale tempranillo. Remove from heat. season to taste. for brushing 3 large eggplant 8 salad onions (halved widthways if large) 2 cups (loosely packed) mixed herbs. whisk ingredients in a bowl and Chrysanthemum salad 180 gm (1 1/2 cups) pitted green olives. to serve with oil. full-bodied shiraz. a meat thermometer reads 60C. 60 ml (¼ cup) brown rice wine vinegar coarsely crushed 5 Scoop flesh from eggplant into a bowl. 4 garlic cloves. drizzle with dressing. season and char-grill over high heat. such as Dijon. lemon wedges and harissa. Barbecued tenderloin with charred onion and eggplant The secret to great barbecued eggplant? Don’t take them off the grill until they’ve surrendered completely. 3 Season lamb shoulder and char-grill over medium heat. Brush Brine Lemon wedges and harissa. 3 cups (loosely packed) chrysanthemum 2½ tbsp pomegranate seeds. cook 1 hr (plus brining Prep time 30 mins. trimmed of sinew Olive oil. flat-leaf parsley and mint Light mustard. 325 gm sea salt Spice mixture turning occasionally. cook freekeh in a large saucepan of boiling water until tender (8-10 minutes). 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses Prep time 30 mins. at 1 Fold tail of fillet under so tenderloin is an even 1 boned pork neck free-range (1. cook 40 mins (plus resting) 2 tbsp red wine vinegar and resting) Serves 6-8 Serves 6-8 (pictured p114) 1 boned lamb shoulder (about 1. leaves (see note)> 1 For spice mixture. for medium-rare. scattered with reserved herbs.6kg-1.8kg) room temperature thickness and tie at intervals with string. Ginger glaze a mortar and pestle 2 Barbecue eggplant over high heat. coarsely chopped. Combine remaining ingredients in a bowl. season to taste. crushed minutes). to this dish. 30 gm ginger. season to taste and toss to combine. so turn often). a 250 gm caster sugar 100 gm butter. finely chopped blackened and tender (15-20 minutes). coarsely crushed in Set aside to rest in a warm place (15 minutes). cook 40 mins (plus resting) Serves 6-8 1 beef tenderloin (1. charred outer skins to serve. Set aside to rest (15 minutes). turning 185 gm brown sugar 1 tsp sweet paprika occasionally.5kg). flesh and pith discarded. melted meat thermometer reads 55C-60C when inserted 10 black peppercorns 1 tbsp each cumin seeds and coriander seeds. 1 tbsp tahini ½ preserved lemon. then drain in a fine sieve and spread on a tray to dry (20 minutes). such as basil. Prep time 20 mins. until pounded with a mortar and pestle 1 small white onion. to serve Barbecued tenderloin with charred onion and eggplant WorldMags. basting occasionally with spice mixture (fat may flare. add cooled freekeh. WorldMags. add 2½ tbsp light soy sauce Juice of 3 lemons onions and half the herbs. then 300 gm cracked freekeh 3 Barbecue onions. until fat is golden-brown and.5kg). Be sure to squeeze on lots of lemon. to serve Wine suggestion A really rich. 1 star anise ½ tsp fennel seeds. or a metal skewer inserted for 20 seconds feels hot when touched to your lip (20-30 minutes). Serve with 1 tbsp grapeseed oil rind rinsed and finely chopped sliced beef. dill. The salad can be made a day ahead. crushed Begin this recipe a day ahead to brine the pork.net Spiced lamb with cracked wheat and Pomegranate dressing Ginger-glazed barbecued pork neck green olive salad 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil with chrysanthemum salad Feta or another salty cheese would be a fine addition 3 garlic coves. then slice and serve with cracked freekeh salad. combine ingredients in a bowl and set aside. into the thickest end or the meat has a little 6 coriander seeds coarsely crushed in a mortar and pestle spring when lightly pressed (20-25 minutes). and 1 tsp sesame oil 150 ml extra-virgin olive oil with mustard on the side. crushed coarsely chopped 4 For dressing.

80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil WorldMags. skin-side up. when the coals are ashed over you’re aside to cool completely. 1 cup each coarsely chopped flat-leaf Prep time 40 mins. the edges of the spit (see note for ginger-glazed and season to taste. or a metal Note Chrysanthemum leaves. this spit used 4kg charcoal) or make simmer.com. rubbing it into Remove pork from brine and rinse. also known as transfer to a serving bowl and scatter with herbs. board and spoon breadcrumb mixture on top. tip yoghurt into a sieve lined with drained pineapple relish and black bean muslin and set over a bowl. Set inserted in the thicker end reads 50C. paste. 3 coals deep. then Barbecued ocean trout with in barbecuing. lemon and pound garlic with a mortar and pestle to a (see cook’s notes p176) and pour over brine to garlic and season to taste. then pat dry buttered baking paper. then rub with lemon halves ingredients in a bowl and stir to dissolve sugar. thinly Finely grated rind of 2 lemons. Place the cuts. order either cut ahead from your butcher. You’ll need to top indirect grilling. or a metal the trout to seal and barbecue over medium heat. loin and eye fillet – though Taking care not to Prep time 35 mins. combine cucumber. arrange hot coals around the Wine suggestion A complex. to serve 2 tbsp white wine vinegar Salsa verde Juice of 1 lemon. vinegar and lemon rind to a Wine suggestion A heady. halved need an electric rôtisserie spit. are available from Asian grocers. under the meat. then tie securely at intervals with glaze during the last 30 minutes of cooking. salsa 300 gm natural yoghurt and that’s what we used here. Start this recipe a day ahead to make the labne. tie the pork at intervals. toss to coat and olive oil. closer to the heat. Cover and refrigerate 3 Place a side of trout. which includes the belly. down (this stops the skin sticking to the foil and with kitchen string. and 2 Score the skin of the pork at 1cm intervals over medium heat. This porchetta is made with a perhaps lower the rod so the pork is cucumber and labne large cut to feed a big crowd – a whole side of pork. crushed ½ tsp black sesame seeds 6 anchovy fillets. 15-20 minutes. head and tail removed. reserving sliced lemons. cook 6 hrs (plus resting) parsley and dill Serves 18-20 Finely grated rind of 1 lemon 12 garlic cloves 1 garlic clove. distributing skewer inserted for 20 seconds feels hot when carefully turning twice. Push the rôtisserie and a meat thermometer reads 65C. thinly sliced and rinsed 1 pork loin with belly (about 7kg) under cold running water Ciabatta rolls or sourdough and wild 60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil rocket. (2 hours). a bowl.75 2 For sourdough stuffing. place in oven to dry. cover the loin with foil. combine tie with kitchen string at 10cm intervals. cleaned. touched to your lip (5-6 hours). Turn the meat over. finely chopped MORE ONLINE 1 cup each coarsely chopped mint 1 cup (firmly packed) coarsely chopped Go large this season with even more and coriander flat-leaf parsley crowd-pleasing cuts – the pineapple 2 tbsp small capers in vinegar. vinegar. turning occasionally and lightly brushing of buttered baking paper on top.net . cover and refrigerate 1 tbsp white wine vinegar and rice salad is calling your name: overnight to drain. plus wedges to serve 2 garlic cloves. crushed ½ cup (firmly packed) rosemary Cucumber salad 1/3 cup (firmly packed) oregano 2 telegraph cucumbers. parsley. Arrange the coals around except chrysanthemum leaves in a large bowl. You’ll also crackled (15-20 minutes). Add leaves. You’ll need to rôtisserie until skin is 1 ocean trout (2kg-2. Place in a shallow bowl. then refrigerate to chill in a frying pan. capers. place a long sheet of and sprinkle generously with salt. Place pork in a non-reactive container toast (2-4 minutes). For Serve trout with salad and labne on the side. and jerked pork neck with crushed 1 For labne. skewer inserted for 20 seconds feels warm when Using fine wire. For ginger glaze.> 200 gm rye sourdough. On using a safety knife. then until a meat thermometer reads 75C. buttered side up. Serves 6-8 (pictured p115) cooking time should remain the same). smooth paste (or use a food processor). aside to rest (15 minutes). then 3 For chrysanthemum salad. exotically perfumed coarse paste in a food processor. barrel. coarsely torn may need to cover sections of the meat with foil as it 100 gm butter cooks to protect it from the fat flare-ups. Spit roasting is a real labour of love and the ultimate 4 Remove the foil from the pork. skewer inserted for 20 seconds feels hot when tong ho. then slide the prongs onto touched to your lip (50 minutes to 1 hour). or you can buy them at barbecue shops. skin-side down.net 1 To brine pork.au olive oil over and refrigerate until required. then Labne The small electric ones can take up to 10kg of meat serve it with rolls. Roll the belly flap over the closed. Wrap the foil around the cuts to prevent it burning. Toss to dress and season to taste. 150 ml extra-virgin olive oil is to distribute the weight of the meat evenly on the Drink suggestion A rustic Sourdough stuffing rôtisserie rod so it’s balanced and turns easily. pour Finely grated rind of 1 lemon gourmettraveller. preheat oven to 140C. and pound to a coarse for 6 hours or overnight. add bread and stir until starting to ready to cook (about 40 minutes).5kg). add completely submerge meat. or a metal each end of the rod to hold the pork securely. Season and set aside. 2 Set up a barbecue for indirect grilling (see note) Sandwich with the other side. on a herbs and lemon rind. cut in half. outside of the barbecue so the heat isn’t directly fermented Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Grill pork indirectly with the lid trout in the centre and put another another piece with the herb paste. buttered side loin to form a log. With the motor viognier. up the charcoal as it dies down. onion. until a meat thermometer the weight evenly. positioning the string in until the glaze is deep golden-brown and sticky also colours the fish a little). textural. anchovies. Set stirring occasionally (10-15 minutes). 4 For cucumber salad. The key to spit-roasting verde and rocket. overlapping sheets of foil. and rub the flesh with paper towels. for brushing them for hire. salsa verde then season to taste. 3 For the salsa verde. rinsed. stirring to dissolve salt and sugar. whisk ingredients touched to your lip (20-30 minutes). combine ingredients and 1. add olive oil in a thin steady stream. for rubbing 1 small white onion. Heat butter a wood fire. WorldMags. blend garlic. rod through the centre of the meat. 1 Fill your spit’s tray with charcoal beads (about litres of water in a saucepan and bring to a spread bread on a tray. half peeled. Spit-roasted porchetta with running. then stir in herbs. cook 50 mins (plus resting) you can easily halve the side to feed fewer people (the burn the skin. some butchers have Rest porchetta for Melted butter. Meanwhile. You farmhouse scrumpy. lemon juice and sesame seeds in barbecued pork neck this page) and roast pork serve with pork.

WorldMags. embroidered cushion from Caravan Interiors. Spit-roasted porchetta with salsa verde and ciabatta WorldMags. Spit-roasting is a real labour of love and the ultimate in barbecuing – and a wonderful way to feed a crowd. “Tropical Floral” from Bonnie and Neil.net PORK Vase from Milly and Eugene. Stockists p175.net 119 . Cushions. All other props stylist’s own. from far left: screen-printed linen “Palette” and “Garden Floral” from Bonnie and Neil.

COM. it should be hot. Sauté chilli paste and shallots pound to break up. The Chianina cattle raised in the region was the traditional choice. Stir in olive oil and lemon juice 3 garlic cloves in grapeseed oil in a saucepan over medium and season to taste. sweet and sour. then add lime juice and season to taste. pound Chilli-tamarind dressing and a large pinch of sea salt to a paste with a oregano and ½ tsp sea salt into coarse paste with 75 gm tamarind pulp. crushed caramelised (3-5 minutes). Set aside. brought to room temperature Grilled flank with tomatoes and 100 ml fish sauce. You could serve 1 Combine light soy. The weight usually ranges from 1kg-1. and caramelised (6 minutes). until the meat can 2 tbsp kecap manis be pulled apart easily (2 hours).AU WorldMags. a meat lover’s dream from Tuscany. kecap manis and 200ml 1/3 cup (1 bunch) oregano. 6 anchovy fillets Prep time 35 mins. 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil Serves 6-8 turning steak occasionally and adding more water Juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp light soy sauce to the pan if it starts to dry out. add flank steaks. add shallots and stir each side for medium-rare). thinly sliced continuously until golden (2-4 minutes). for shallow frying pulp in a coarse sieve. Add fish sauce and afford. cook 4 hrs (plus resting) cover tightly with foil and barbecue over low heat. Serve it with a simple salad or baby Grilled flank with tomatoes potatoes cooked in foil on the barbecue. and fresh and fried shallots. Serve with remaining dressing on the side. pressing to extract all (4-5 minutes). strain tamarind and grill. or to taste 4 bunches asparagus Flank is one of those wonderful flavourful cuts of meat Oregano and anchovy sauce that suits low and slow barbecuing. or both. 8 small red birdseye chillies. Wine suggestion An elegant. and scatter with Thai basil. water in a small roasting pan. Remove steak 1 Brush the steaks with oil and grill the narrow 2 flank steaks (1kg each) from pan. then place flat and 6 heirloom tomatoes. tamarind liquid. WorldMags. brush with oil and char-grill over high fat-fringed edges over medium-high until golden 1 tbsp grapeseed oil heat until caramelised (5-10 minutes). until just charred Grapeseed oil. torn coarsely this with sticky rice. 4 Shred steaks and arrange on a platter with tomatoes. 6 golden shallots liquid. then add anchovies and 100ml boiling water a coarse paste. we’ve opted for dry-aged Black Angus. perfumed Margaret River cabernet. Pound garlic 3 For oregano and anchovy sauce. # 120 GOURMETTRAVELLER. thickly sliced over medium heat. chopped heat. Add palm sugar and stir sauce and serve with asparagus. such as red and yellow 2 For fried shallots. cool briefly. dissolved in mortar and pestle.net . drizzle with oregano and anchovy 80 ml (1/3 cup) grapeseed oil (10-15 minutes). or to taste Olive oil for brushing chilli-tamarind dressing Juice of 3 limes. and chilli-tamarind dressing Prep time 25 mins. brush asparagus with olive oil Fried shallots 3 For chilli-tamarind dressing. 4 red shallots finely chopped occasionally until fragrant and the sugar is Wine suggestion The best Chianti you can 100 gm dark palm sugar. until caramelised 4 Slice steaks. Set aside to rest 2 golden shallots. 1 cup (loosely packed) Thai basil and set aside. Season to taste.net HOT TIP The larger the cut of meat. cook 30 mins (plus resting) Serves 6-8 2 dry aged T-bone steaks (1kg each). the earlier you want to take it out of the fridge and the earlier you want to salt it – large cuts of red meat benefit from being seasoned even days in advance. which should be roughly three fingers in thickness. Drain loosely tented in foil for 10-12 minutes. Drizzle with half the dressing.5kg for each steak. heat oil in a small saucepan cook each side until golden-brown (8 minutes oxhearts. Bistecca Fiorentina with asparagus There are certain guidelines for the bistecca Fiorentina. stirring occasionally. Add chillies and pound to a mortar and pestle. remove from heat. turning occasionally. 2 Meanwhile. Set aside and discard solids.

net BISTECCA Platter from Milly and Eugene. Stockists p175. Chair by HK Living.net . Bistecca Fiorentina with asparagus WorldMags. WorldMags. Rug from The Design Hunter. FLANK All props stylist’s own. All other props stylist’s own.

COCONUT ICE Large WorldMags. Small white resin bowl by Dinosaur Designs. Stockists p175.net glass bowl from Papaya. All other props stylist’s own.net . Rhubarb and ginger spiders (RECIPE P128) WorldMags.SPIDER Iittala tumblers from Top3 by Design.

WorldMags. cola-syrup snow cones and a luscious frozen layer cake – iced desserts have never been hotter.net . RECIPES & FOOD STYLING ALICE STOREY PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE STYLING GERALDINE MUÑOZ Young coconut ice with lychee and pomelo (RECIPE P124) WorldMags.net freeze FRAME Fruity icy-poles. buttermilk soft-serve.

sprinkles and serve immediately. Add cream mixture to yolk mixture in a thin 80 gm caster sugar Makes 12 small cones steady stream. This frosty creation was inspired by the delicious – you can have them filled and ready to go. Place bag in a bowl or on a tray through a fine sieve. Strain into a bowl placed 1 tbsp lime juice 60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice over another bowl filled with iced water. small saucepan over low heat to dissolve sugar.net . Before serving scrape with a fork to fluff up and form ice crystals. whisking until incorporated. pomelo and lime juice in a large bowl. Return Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean 250 gm strawberries. cool 2 tbsp liquid glucose slightly (15-20 minutes). a swift swing with the Buttermilk and strawberry butt of a large chef’s knife is quick and effective. Top with 80ml each). 1 vanilla bean. to extract liquid (discard solids). then divide Passionfruit. then just 2 Bring cream. Set aside to cool (1 hour). whisk yolks and Prep time 20 mins. pour into a tray about 22cm square and freeze (8 hours or overnight). Freeze until half-frozen (1½ hours). 300 ml pouring cream Churn in an ice-cream machine until frozen. Pull on sticks to release icy poles and eat immediately or store in the freezer for up to a month in an airtight container. Prep time 20 mins. then bring to the simmer. cook 5 mins (plus cooling. then add buttermilk and 1 Stir sugar. but soft-serve cones if you’re not feeling confident coconut openers are available from select kitchen supply stores and grocers. top with young-coconut ice and serve.net Buttermilk and strawberry Reserve 2 tbsp strawberry purée. freezing) jug or glass to catch any drips as you fill it. return to to combine and pour into desired moulds (around juice and glucose in a small saucepan over freezer to firm up before continuing). Meanwhile. placing it in a large measuring remaining sugar in a large bowl until thick and (plus cooling. 1 tbsp lemon cones (if ice-cream becomes too soft. then purée the mixture with a stick blender. freezing) Serves 6 (pictured p123) 55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar 750 ml (3 cups) young-coconut water (from about 3 young coconuts). flesh reserved 18 lychees. lemon rind and vanilla bean and addictive pineapple and vanilla lemonade Mike cut the end when you’re about to pipe the ice-cream and seeds to a bare simmer in a saucepan over McEnearney makes at Kitchen by Mike in Sydney. medium heat until reduced by half (6-8 minutes). split. Divide among chilled serving dishes. segmented and coarsely torn Juice of 1 lime 1 Stir sugar and 60ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat to dissolve sugar and simmer until slightly syrupy (2 minutes). then whisk in remaining lemon Makes about 10 Prep time 40 mins. then pipe it into lime juice and vanilla sugar syrup in a large bowl 1 Simmer strawberries. pale (2-3 minutes). WorldMags. remove from heat and Thinly peeled rind of 1 lemon spoon buttermilk ice-cream into a piping bag set aside to cool. then whisk with coconut water in a bowl. (8 hours or overnight).> WorldMags. 90gm sugar. pressing solids with a spoon 300 ml buttermilk and freeze until just firm (45 minutes to 1 hour). seeds scraped fitted with a 2cm nozzle. Young coconut-water ice with lychee and pomelo To open the young coconuts. Whisk passionfruit Sprinkles (optional). or return to the insert icy-pole sticks and freeze until frozen Cool. halved and pitted 1 pink pomelo. place moulds in a container of cold water that comes three-quarters of the way up the sides. remaining passionfruit pulp. pineapple juice. 3 To serve. cook 20 mins (plus freezing) juice. pineapple and soft-serve cones remaining between cones and freeze cones vanilla icy poles Large disposable piping bags are great for this recipe until required. hulled and coarsely to saucepan and stir continuously over low heat Pulp of 6 passionfruit chopped until mixture thickly coats the back of a wooden 600 ml freshly juiced pineapple juice 220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar spoon (6-8 minutes). to evenly loosen ice-cream. cook 5 mins bag fitted with a nozzle. adding reserved purée at 2 Strain two-thirds of the passionfruit pulp 6 egg yolks intervals as you go. vanilla seeds and 60ml water in a 12 small ice-cream cones set aside to cool completely. 2 Slice young coconut flesh into strips and combine with lychees. to serve 3 Before piping the ice-cream. freezer to serve later. Start this recipe a day ahead to freeze the young coconut ice. Or do the same with a normal piping medium heat. stirring occasionally. into the cones. squeeze the bag juice.

Stockists p175.net 125 . WorldMags. pineapple and vanilla icy poles ICY POLES & SOFT SERVES All props stylist’s own. WorldMags.net Passionfruit.

TEXT PAGE All props stylist’s own.net LAYER CAKE Royal Doulton “1815” plate (top in stack) from Waterford Wedgwood. WorldMags. All other props stylist’s own.net . Stockists p175. Peach frozen yoghurt and berry sorbet layer cake WorldMags.

whisking until 6 peaches. then peel and process peaches and peach (8-10 minutes). then toast lightly 600 gm thick Greek style yoghurt remaining caster sugar and 220ml water in a with a blowtorch (8-10 seconds). stirring occasionally. Italian meringue sugar. Set aside until cool enough to incorporated. 600 gm frozen raspberries. or run a hot knife around the inside. add remaining purée. blend berries in a blender or occasionally. Freeze remaining freezer for 10-15 minutes. Remove remaining peach frozen Prep time 1 hour. Fresh raspberries. then simmer until syrupy (3-4 minutes).net 127 . then spread half on top of the berry cake from tin is difficult. If you can’t find these. Start whisking eggwhites in an 220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar in a large bowl. halved. 100 gm ginger crisp biscuits (see note) machine until frozen. until smooth and soft enough to yellow peaches. Combine yoghurt. Note We’ve used thin Swedish ginger biscuits 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar Set aside to cool (45 minutes). stirring Any stone fruit works well for this cake – white or 2 For berry sorbet. turning once until golden eggwhite in a thin steady stream. meringue. melted sorbet over the ginger crumb base. partially defrosted 3 For peach frozen yoghurt. which are available at delicatessens and 2 eggwhites lemon juice. whisk to combine and refrigerate until well another thin ginger biscuit. Churn in an ice-cream and soft enough to spread (10-12 minutes). top with meringue. just keep the top and 120ml water in a saucepan. WorldMags. then spread half the berry Spread over sorbet. stones removed (50-55 minutes). stir in and a pinch of fine sea peach frozen yoghurt in a container until required. Spread over the be made ahead and if you don’t own a blowtorch to a fine sieve. until smooth Serves 10-12 refrigerate to chill (3 hours). glucose frozen-yoghurt layer of cake. Combine peaches. then press evenly into the base of the 4 Remove remaining berry sorbet from the sorbet layer cake cake tin and refrigerate to set. simmer over medium heat. cook 1 hour 10mins and set aside to cool (30 minutes). partially defrosted 180C. in a saucepan over medium heat to dissolve sugar. sugar. smooth top and toast the meringue. bring to the return to freezer until just frozen (1 hour to 1 hour snowy white. substitute Pinch of cream of tartar bowl. freezing) mixture to a bowl. then. return to paper. stir sugar and 100ml water Berry sorbet container and freeze until required. Combine half the purée. Stir (see note). to serve until firm. stir to dissolve sugar 20 minutes). toss to combine. Continue 50 gm powdered glucose (see note) peaches cut-side up on a baking tray lined with heating the sugar syrup to 121C. Place remaining berry sorbet in a 5 For Italian meringue. smooth top and freeze until just firm (10-12 minutes). once unmoulded. It can easily food processor until smooth. here. WorldMags. Scatter with 1 tbsp lemon juice small saucepan over medium heat to dissolve raspberries and serve. Powdered glucose is chilled (3 hours). 60gm sugar and vanilla thermometer. If removing 1 Line the sides and base of a 20cm-diameter until frozen. and continue whisking until cool 280 gm caster sugar handle. set aside to soften slightly round cake tin with removable base with baking sorbet. don’t worry. and freeze completely (4 hours). Process ginger crisps to a coarse crumb in (1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes).> Style and substance collide strikingly in layers of tangy berry sorbet and creamy frozen yoghurt crowned with snowy meringue. Transfer sugar yoghurt from freezer and let sit at room (plus chilling.net Peach frozen yoghurt and berry salt flakes. before topping with a food processor. Churn in an ice-cream machine available from health-food stores. then strain through spread (10-12 minutes). then place electric mixer until soft peaks form. freezer and let sit at room temperature. smooth top and freeze 40 gm butter. Remove ice-cream cake from tin Scraped seeds from 1 vanilla bean juices in a food processor until smooth. preheat oven to then simmer until syrup reaches 115C on a sugar 400 gm frozen strawberries. then add to Peach frozen yoghurt baking paper and roast. and temperature. peach purée and sugar syrup in a supermarkets. nectarines or even plums.

then stir in juices. to serve 90 gm (1 cup) rolled oats another bowl of iced water. then Anzac and golden syrup refrigerate in a sterile jar (see cook’s notes p176). cover and refrigerate for rhubarb to release juices (2 hours).2 litres 1 orange 2 tbsp golden syrup 2 Preheat oven to 160C and line 2 baking trays 1 cinnamon quill 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda with baking paper. drizzle with cola syrup and squeeze lime juice over the top. Stir in lemon juice. Stir butter and golden ½ star anise 125 ml (½ cup) golden syrup syrup in a saucepan over low heat until melted. Transfer to a saucepan. whisk to combine and remove from heat. 400 gm caster sugar 130 gm brown sugar Churn in an ice-cream machine. Combine bicarbonate of ¼ tsp dried lavender 375 ml (1½ cups) pure cream soda with 2 tbsp hot water. Return to pan Serves 8-10 Makes 12 sandwiches and stir continuously over low heat until thick 600 gm ice cubes 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour (3-4 minutes). sandwich scoops of golden syrup vanilla and citric acid. finely crush ice in a food processor a cool new spin on a home-grown classic for and pack into serving cups or dishes. Cola syrup 45 gm (3/4 cup) shredded coconut stir occasionally until cool.net . add milk mixture in a thin steady stream. oats. Add half the Experiment with the amount of cola syrup you add These make s a great dessert for an Australia Day milk. add rhubarb syrup. 1 For golden syrup ice-cream. stir ingredients. 1 For cola syrup.AU WorldMags. orange peel and juice and ginger in a bowl. 1/8 tsp finely grated nutmeg 375 (1½ cups) milk then pour into oat mixture and mix well. Anzac biscuit ice-cream sandwiches put 2 To serve. Return to heat and reduce by a quarter over medium-high heat (15-20 minutes). cook 40 mins (plus macerating) Makes 6 (pictured p122) 1 kg rhubarb.net Anzac and golden syrup ice-cream ½ tsp sea salt flakes and swirl to combine. stir into butter mixture. coarsely chopped 330 gm (1½ cups) caster sugar 2 strips of orange peel 50 ml freshly squeezed orange juice 3 thin slices ginger (about 2mm thick and 5cm long) 1 tsp lemon juice 12 scoops vanilla ice-cream 1. Cool (about 1 hour). Roll level ½ vanilla bean. in the freezer ready to go as a party treat. cook 10 mins (plus cooling) Prep time 45 mins. cook golden syrup 3 To serve. then transfer to 75 gm brown sugar 1 tsp ground ginger a container and freeze until required. Strain into a bowl through a fine sieve lined with muslin. Rhubarb and ginger spiders Rhubarb and this frothy spider combination are a nostalgic way to cool off in summer. (4-5 minutes). ½ tsp coriander seeds 50 gm butter. Transfer to a bowl placed over Lime wedges. whisking Prep time 20 mins. ice-cream sandwiches Makes about 500ml.6 litres sparkling water or soda water 1 Combine rhubarb. split.COM. top up with sparkling water and serve. # 128 GOURMETTRAVELLER. stir over low heat to dissolve sugar. Cola syrup will keep for a month. add butter and immediately or freeze for later. Prep time 10 mins. strain through a fine sieve and refrigerate in a sealed bottle. coarsely chopped about 1. then reduce heat to low and simmer to develop flavours (5 minutes). then bring to the simmer. throw in a splash barbecue – you can make them ahead and keep them Whisk yolks in a bowl until pale (1-2 minutes). then refrigerate to chill. 1 tsp finely grated ginger Golden syrup ice-cream sugar and ginger in a bowl. Add remaining milk. Set aside to cool. add 375ml water. 2 Place ice-cream in chilled glasses. cook 30 mins continuously until incorporated. WorldMags. press lightly and bake in batches until golden (14-16 minutes). cover partially and cook until liquid thickens slightly (15-17 minutes). sugar. except juices. then of golden rum. Combine flour. Remove from heat. seeds scraped 5 egg yolks tablespoonfuls of dough into balls and place on ½ tsp citric acid 1 tsp vanilla extract trays. Makes about 600ml. coconut. Will keep for up to a month. 1 lime and 150 gm butter. vanilla and citric acid. to the ice – and for an extra kick. with 300ml water in a in a saucepan over medium heat until dark caramel ice-cream between Anzac biscuits and eat saucepan over medium heat to dissolve sugar. then Cola and lime snow cones sandwiches whisk in cream and return to heat. pressing on solids (discard solids or reserve to make compote). bring to the simmer. Australia Day celebrations. coarsely chopped then remove from heat. Makes Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon.

net SNOW CONES All props stylist’s own.net . SANDWICHES Oval resin dish from Dinosaur Designs. Cola and lime snow cones MORE ONLINE Chill out even more with the coolest collection of over 30 recipes for ices. Stockists p175. granitas and slushies online: gourmettraveller. WorldMags.com.au WorldMags.

WorldMags. Lifestyle Retreat WorldMags.net For the of your life..net ..

while above water all is serene and sybaritic. Bali bites Explore the rich. The life aquatic The pristine reefs of the Maldives teem with shimmering clouds of fish. we follow the sun for balmy beaches. the Mornington Peninsula is just ripe for summer holidays. Uluru rising The spiritual heart of Australia is undergoing a transformation for both travellers and local communities.net . PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN LAURIE Mornington glory With new chefs and new eateries. Discover the best of both worlds. the best street eats and more.net JANUARY 2015 travel From island exotica to our own backyard. WorldMags. bold flavours found in Bali’s traditional warungs with an insider’s tour of the best. WorldMags.

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WorldMags. PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA QUICK STICKS Warung Wardani’s famed nasi campur. a mixed rice dish.net BALI BITES You haven’t eaten on Indonesia’s most popular island until you’ve explored the rich.net . here with minced chicken sate. Bali insider Maya Kerthyasa takes us on a tour of the best. Eny of Warung Ibu Eny (opposite). green beans. deep-fried tempeh and a spiced hard-boiled egg. shredded chicken. beef sate. WorldMags. bold flavours found in the traditional warungs.

the centre of the meal. grilled over coconut husks and chairs that traditionally operate out of the back or slow-braised. Some have menus.AU WorldMags. family-run canteens with no more than a few tables cooked over wood fires. and you’ll be hard-pressed to Denpasar are reflected One of the joys of warung eating is the sight of the find a Balinese person who doesn’t fire up their plate in crowded Sate Plecing Arjuna. It’s perfectly easy to visit Bali and not catch so much as a whiff of the local cuisine. expat haunts and into the warungs. I ate house-made charcuterie at a 30-seater following in the footsteps of Noma. WorldMags. so you’ll want to get there early – just specialties in their truest form usually means stepping Bali’s signature smoked before midday – for the fresh stuff. you’ll lawar. turmeric and candlenut – are echoes of India Put simply. is the absence of Finding warungs that serve such traditional Wardani (top right) has refrigeration. where sate rules platters of food laid out before you in a window display. of course. palm For visitors. duck and fish take centrestage. Whatever the case.net . they serve food – they’re like Pork. Bali is brimming with warungs specialising in language skills. Bali is Indonesia’s last remaining Hindu island while there are a few restaurants bringing traditional and its cuisine is unique and laden with ceremonial flavours into a fine-dining context. I even went to an Argentine grill. a warung is a traditional shopfront and Java. The heavily Westernised southern who has eaten at the island’s traditional eateries for parts of the island have swapped most of their local most of my years. Fruit and vegetables get the raw of someone’s home kitchen. remnants of the Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit offering everything from daily amenities such as soap kingdom that ruled the island from the 13th century to and cigarettes to phone and fax services and headache the beginning of the 16th century.net During my last visit to Bali I ate vitello tonnato at an Italian restarant. order boldly and prepare to eat better cuisines from all reaches of Indonesia – from the spicy than you’ve ever eaten in Bali before. chicken. off the tourist trail. remedies.COM. considering that the food – rich with spice. galangal. it’s the local stuff that’s really special. (top left). eateries for beach bars and fast-food chains and. Which is a shame. bold flavours and complexity – is some of the finest the archipelago has to offer. Rice is almost always The bustling streets of keeping to the warung’s signature is a good idea. though. so through broths and light curries. Padang food of West Sumatra to the sweet. finding Balinese food that’s done well sugar-rich eats of central Java. 134 GOURMETTRAVELLER. for true authenticity significance. Mostly. chopped with coconut in dishes such as specialise in a single dish. while Warung The downside to this. some treatment. Speaking as a Bali native isn’t always easy. So embrace your latent Indonesian duck wrapped up. with some form of sambal. The spice pastes that form the base of you need to venture beyond the popular tourist and most Balinese dishes – loaded with coriander seed. or pan-tossed in coconut milk and stirred SATE SECRETS be lucky to come across English-speaking staff.

Warung won’t often find it at your average popular plates in town. just outside Kuta. and it goes beans tossed through a mixture of accompanying chopped chilli> WorldMags. wide-screen television for a day in an earthenware pot – is cucumber. This shoebox of a space. gingery. It’s quintessentially Chinese-Balinese descent). smack-bang for its pork. SATE PLECING ARJUNA one of the finest versions on the Sanur. The other Indonesian town of Sanur. too. among them a nourishing Come mid-morning. the classic its nasi ikan. diners are chicken and glass-noodle broth spilling out onto the street for known as soto ayam.net 135 . crowded coconut-braised snake beans. but the tenderness of the ever-popular Sate torch ginger. featuring snake marrow and the buzz of the the island’s capital. The “fish and rice” salad gado-gado. WARUNG WARDANI attracts masses from far and wide spice-doused chicken with a side This Denpasar eatery. here is world class. Jalan Hang Tuah 45. Liku Ayam Betutu. +62 361 224 398. turmeric-rich flavours. the buttery richness of the Plecing Arjuna (right) in Balinese with its garlicky. This unassuming eatery. lime and in its execution (the owners are of kitchen. Indonesian restaurant. with its deep-fried strips of tempeh and wooden communal tables and potato made sweet with kecap photos of celebrity patrons splayed manis. and chunks of caramelised across the walls. no phone. garage-like warung on Jalan to beat the midday rush. Warung Nakula. beef. the island. but a small want to make sure you get in early Denpasar. Jalan Nakula 19. in this instance is snapper cutlet. hints of lemongrass and spectrum with its pink-tiled coconut oil and spices. a fiery vegetable accompaniments – on communal tables and smoke sate sticks (centre) combination of raw lemongrass. and bone-marrow of steamed white rice.net down swimmingly with a tall jug of sweet iced jasmine tea. fired up with a smoked and (relatively) clean bathroom one of the great dishes of Balinese sambal. Jalan Yudistira 2. just down island. WorldMags. try. Badung. the nasi meat. red onion. which will cost facilities. is the only item on real deal and well worth braving time-consuming to prepare. Because it’s complex and you all of $3. The dish. Wardani LIKU AYAM BETUTU deep-fried and served with rice and sits on the fancier (and slightly Betutu – chicken or duck wrapped a bowl of fish-head soup with green more expensive) side of the in banana bark with a mix of papaya. pieces of its subtly smoky. but don’t be classics on the menu are worth a disheartened by its surroundings. offers Mak Beng. beef and marrow helping of sambal matah. you the menu. It’s also one of the most Denpasar’s traffic for. As far as warungs go. so you’ll Wardani. While not strictly Balinese billowing from the bustling open are on offer at the red chilli. but the food here is the cuisine. traditional in the heart of the city. may sit on an beef jerky known locally as deng otherwise tired strip in the seaside deng. and smoked almost gelatinous chunks of cooked walls. and offal soup. WARUNG MAK BENG shredded wood-roasted chicken. some of the best nasi campur – a room – no bigger than the size SPICE TRAIL Bakso broth (left) and roasted peanuts and a generous staple of rice with a mix of meat and of three bus stops – with a few pork. Liku Ayam Betutu serves the road from Warung Wardani. turns out sate offerings. +62 361 282 633. It’s a tight. coconut flesh and coconut cream.

no phone. shredded beef coconut husks with grated a little like looking for a tourist An Ubud stalwart with red-and- or offal. seating on the other. a raw dish of chopped jackfruit with chilli and coconut known as lawar.AU WorldMags. with a fresh young coconut on the side for good measure. as well as curls of crunchy deep-fried pork rinds. minced tuna grilled clear of the Western-style cafés and Teges sets the standard for feed all up. Goa Lawah. Warung Lesehan steamed in banana leaves. WorldMags. steamed white rice and gentrifying Petitenget strip. +62 361 736 892. no phone. sambal matah. for the special mixed rice. It’s a tasty but hefty the spiced. Jalan Raya deep-fried tempeh or braised tofu Teges. # 136 GOURMETTRAVELLER. The canteen-like room has bright-green walls and is loud. Condiments such a plate of their signature nasi style smoked egg and a ladle of Up the east coast of the island. Jalan plecing sauce make it all worthwhile.net . WARUNG NASI LUKLUK Lukluk is no place for the faint of heart. Jalan Petitenget 97. betutu-style sauce.COM. But if you’re a pork enthusiast you’d be mad not to try the nasi babi: spit-roasted suckling pig. so you’ll have no in banana leaves known as pepes restaurants. or bakso. Jalan Raya Cok Rai Pudak.net FIRE AND SPICE The sate sizzles at Sate Plecing Arjuna (left). Peliatan. a deep-fried of some serious seafood magic. cnr Jalan Arjuna and Yudistira. or Klungkung. toffee-like shards of crackling. that are leagues ahead a stark yet refreshing contrast to a blood pudding-like sausage Denpasar. offering-scattered exterior.50. and traditional woven-mat. as pan-fried peanuts and the campur. while preparations are under way at Warung Ibu Eny (left and below) for the bean and eggplant side dishes. an home-style Balinese cooking. leftover rice. The real hero. It’s accompanied by Kuta. Warung Nasi Lukluk. is Candidasa. drink included. It’s a lot of beast to stomach in one sitting. though. the display or go the whole lot. smoky things sold by your average from the menu or dive straight into spice-roasted chicken. spinach. “lesehan”. no phone. leafy. WARUNG IBU ENY Raya Kapal. housed in a for about $2. it’s gnarled pieces of deep-fried pork. with tables and chairs on one side Pesinggahan. broth with hand-rolled fish balls. With spesial. The meat comes with a bowl of Food-wise it’s all about the sate Finding real Balinese food in beef broth served with your choice lilit: minced tuna grilled over expat-central Seminyak can be WARUNG MAKAN TEGES of bakso meatballs. sits the roadside home accompaniment. Warung Makan spacious open-air structure filled Sari Baruna. For those who wish to steer and confectionery-lined walls. or nasi of tangerines and snake fruit from beans. It’s a festival of coconut- the vendor outside to freshen up a bowl of clear parsley-infused its modest wooden furnishings and infused green vegetables with afterwards. Seminyak. Pick from Banjar Teges. Warung Ibu Eny. designed for dipping your coconut and caramelised palm without a Southern Cross tattoo in white checked plastic table covers sticks in and soaking up with your sugar. as well as sautéed green oasis tucked away on the ever. chilli-infused stir-fried water torch ginger and chilli condiment Lesehan Sari Baruna is bigger than and it’s all yours. jerky-like pork stir-fried in sweet soy. a betutu- LESEHAN SARI BARUNA street vendor. hot. spicy parcels of pork that makes every bite sing that your average warung. Order made from pork intestine. Denpasar. to garlic and the sambal bongkot. but it’s a class above most of the watered-down offerings around town. with tomato and garlic. and a fragrant pork broth to pour over your meat and rice. +62 361 975 251. make for extra fire and crunch. Ubud. Sate Plecing Arjuna. there’s Ibu Eny. of the plasticky factory-produced its villa-laden surroundings. little bit louder. busy and probably not as hygienic as you’d like a dining establishment to be. Ask qualms about digging into a bag ikan. which can feature anything green papaya broth to tie it en route to the seaside town of obligatory Balinese seafood from whole roasted chicken in a together.

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While there are a few restaurants bringing traditional flavours into a fine-dining
context, for true authenticity you need to venture beyond the popular tourist haunts.

SO WARUNG
Clockwise, from top centre:
broth is ladled onto bakso,
and outside rambutans are
for sale at Sate Plecing
Arjuna; condiments
including sambal goreng
(on white plate); the
display at Ibu Eny; a diner
at Liku Ayam Betutu;
Ibu Eny’s stir-fried water
spinach and tempeh; and
Warung Wardani.

WorldMags.net 137

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the life
aquatic
The pristine reefs of the Maldives teem with showy,
shimmering clouds of fish, while above water all is serene
and sybaritic. Helen Anderson enjoys the best of both worlds.
PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN LAURIE

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WorldMags.net JETTY SET
The reception at
Maalifushi by Como.
Opposite: dhoni suites
at Cocoa Island by Como.

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WorldMags. It’s as quiet as an aquarium.net . a salt-rim of waves lies beyond. WorldMags.net Forty metres out is the navy arc of reef.

and distinctive Como-prescribed represents much more than tonight’s sashimi.” caught represents skill and effort. 80 wide. surfer on Guraidhoo white living room open to a deck. its closest neighbour. open-air shower. We have about a FEATURES island remains a dark mystery until dawn. Now there are butlers and notches by Como’s assured sense of understated chefs. a series of four submarine caves at restaurant. I remember fine white sand underfoot in Sola learned to dive at Cocoa and knows how lucky WATER the lobby. A German Playboy photographer named Eric Klemm washed up on the “island of my dreams” when The great harvest of fish delivered this morning he ventured to the Maldives on a magazine assignment by a score of wooden dhonis anchored outside in 1979. the snapper. among them fellow slab in front of me.” He had a girlfriend matter the size – was caught by line. shallow lagoon of startling clarity. Maalifushi’s Thila pool filled bathroom.000 people living on only 1.net 141 . with no more than as an aquarium. Republic of the Maldives. talks of being “Cocoa-ed” – which I take we board an oligarch-white cruiser with 400 horsepower to mean the inability to recall problems that loomed out the back and bolt into the night. There’s another site called Manta Point. “You might have 30 or 40 sharks around you. The fishing and the tourism Maldivian fishing boats. A baby black-tip reef shark darts nearby me. though the the market has been sold and dispatched. He was so happy he wanted to live here and he bought the lease over the temptation to illegally use nets instead. it’s among the most densely populated islands in Over breakfast of Maldivian egg curry. a warm breeze ruffles to no more than 40 minutes by boat. Fish are the biggest export of the tiny paradise”. Eric’s paradise is now named Cocoa Island by Como. Malé airport occupies its own neighbouring and roti. and tourism has overtaken fishing as the suites. he writes in a book on my coffee table. That makes inside a Cocoa Island water villa.net There’s blood on the tiles. but the he is. Guests As we arrive. It’s as quiet and the chance to dive at night. dhoni surprising us both. four bungalows. within 15 it’s butchered. the white-sand foundations of these islands. tuna-smoking plant. Malé is a starburst in the dark void gather for Ginger Mojitos beside the beachfront pool of the Indian Ocean. tuna sambal the world. built another four rooms and over the next decade The fish. from five minutes Clockwise from top left: At the end of that jetty. Beneath the deck and white-tips. another spot and another where hammerhead sharks the palms at Ufaa. seafood at Cocoa Island’s Ufaa And in the lagoon is me. I watch a fisherman flense photographer and filmmaker Leni Riefenstahl. lotions in indoor and outdoor bathrooms. light. three divers per instructor. and all are a short swim from rely on one thing: the health of the coral reefs that form the house reef for spontaneous. Guraidhoo muslin curtains in a fishing shack. perhaps even the inability to is close – 40 minutes at full tilt – and we arrive at remember when one is meant to leave. and it’s largely Shambhala Retreat spa. often the size and shape of a torpedo. no in length. Cocoa Island large only yesterday. kind of shack that has a mezzanine bedroom. a shark-cleaning station at a depth of about 30 metres. island. French-born general manager. on the uninhabited island. This morning’s tuna alumnus Amanda Gale. a salt-rim of waves lies beyond.7 square kilometres of designed to satisfy rather than whet appetites. Radiating from jetties are 33 over-water infinity pools. effortless snorkelling. He named it Cocoa Island. diving instructors and overwater suites with elegance. only 12 classic south sea island palms. one per island. for the big water villa. fish dinners on living on 200-odd of the 1200 islands in this remote a beach of talcum-powder sand – but raised many Indian Ocean archipelago. lies 400 kilometres to the north-east. and a white-on. southern and order from frequently changing menus of southern India. resting on the used by friends from Europe. Eric weathered storms. guts in the gutters. of reef. midnight. Every Maldivians called it Makunufushi: “Five hundred paces fish – the skipjacks. and each of the millions “I wondered if this was the ultimate state of happiness. the tanned. The island resorts. shortages of water and occasionally the fish in five minutes. A little stingray ripples rays that gather. though this required him Somebody landed the 65-kilogram yellowfin tuna. the traditional nation’s biggest industry. grey-tips bar. Rockpool fishing industries in the world. to build a “resort” – in his case. the jobfish. island capital of Malé are magnificent. lunch under past. though a particular Cocoa very special. and triumph Eric discarded shoes and surname. and from a taxi rank of boats anchored outside Laurent Sola. with not a soul to be seen. one fish at with him and they “felt like Adam and Eve discovering a time. Forty metres out is the navy arc mass. Until 42 years ago there were retains the castaway charm that so entranced Eric no resorts and few travellers – just fishing families – hammocks strung between palms. some built to resemble dhonis. being cleaned by little wrasse. dozen world-class dive sites close by. WorldMags. The reefs There are Como signatures – a top-quality Como and the marine life are wondrous. Cocoa Island are steps to a still. a seriously good raw-food because the Maldives has one of the few sustainable menu designed by the group’s executive chef. With Indian and smart-resort dishes – light and unfussy but 105. the man and this bloody theatre in the planted more than a thousand palms and fruit trees. The likely destiny of the tuna belly is tonight’s bought 12 years ago by Christina Ong’s Singapore- sashimi on a handmade plate at one of a hundred based Como Hotels and Resort Group. a warm welcome and a long jetty. and tuition from beginner> WorldMags. Cocoa’s dive centre arranges three dives a day suites on Cocoa.” His favourite spot is Cocoa Thila. food. land.” Island. “The marine life is phenomenal.

and Maalifushi pops on idols sidle up. entire vocabulary for coconuts). Strobes of sunlight fall upon a vertical coral garden of The average height above sea level is 1. Maalifushi by Como. by biting swimmers and should be avoided (unlike Como has recently started direct hour-long Cocoa’s rum. but none that and sand spits appear as bleach spots concentrically opened its resort in trouble divers or snorkellers.net . who designed Como Shambhala Estate in> Nothing is built on the islands above the height of the tallest coconut palm. and exhilarating underwater. The water cools instantly. then a two-hour speedboat everywhere.5 metres. the Ikebuchi. before the coffee-table text Reef Fishes of the Maldives. shape-changing clouds to Maalifushi. with decks. outdoor reach for a Dulux colour chart to name a hundred showers and infinity pools. The first resort in emperors. a Maldivian Dash 8 south to an island these reefs. three The world has been simplified: complex. WorldMags. deceptively comical triggerfish. From my seat. Maalifushi by Como opened oriental sweetlip. angelfish and parrotfish. Who could count them? For there are fish airstrip named Kadhdhoo. Napoleon wrasse and sand – much bigger than Cocoa. but the unusual confluence of I swim towards the reef. understated. This is when you have to and over the lagoon. which should be embraced). facing the beach be appreciated only by air. and also between According to Dr R Charles Anderson. neon damselfish and the exquisitely striped the southern Thaa Atoll. Interiors by Koichiro shades of blue. A quicksilver nation’s highest natural point is just 2. a favourite among Maldivians. pared-back. a Como Shambhala Retreat. Speakers of Dhivehi. Suites are in There’s another dimension to the Maldives that can tropical gardens favoured by families. We take a long route.net PALM LINES to instructor level in four languages. neighbouring island. it’s possible seaplane is launched: from Cocoa to Malé airport by to see more than 200 species on a dive or snorkel on speedboat. reef and atoll April last year. There’s a much closer airport on a moving at speeds that defy attempts to count or identify. uninhabited island next door for picnics. feel the panicky rush of vertigo a king tide and ocean surge means its airstrip is as the sandy floor drops deep. who wrote my the two resorts. in April last year with 66 suites and villas.4 metres. then Nothing is built on the islands above the height vanishes. I snorkel and at Cocoa I can swim precisely the colours and moods of the ocean (and an in the southern Thaa safely from suite to reef whenever I like. The one to watch is the circled by the blue upon blue of lagoon. dive centre. One day I’ll learn national language. I spot unicorn fish by their namesake the horizon as a bristle of palms on eight hectares of horns. It’s a reminder of the nation’s vulnerability. island resort. WorldMags. islands Atoll. the delicate fans and outlandish appendages. daybeds. which is often. in glittering. have many more words to describe The island of Maalifushi to dive. where Como There are 40 or so shark species here. For now. army of fusiliers charges and surrounds me. pineapple and lime cocktail of the same seaplane flights between Malé airport and its newest name. and still fail. which defends its nest (another Dhivehi word). gaudy restaurants. underwater. Powderblue surgeonfish and delicate Moorish of the tallest coconut palm. surf shack and children’s program. And a tiny sybaritic on land.

reef fish with chickpea. a coral lagoon. a Maalifushi water suite. a guest at Maalifushi heads off for a surfing daytrip. cauliflower and pomegranate salad at Ufaa.WorldMags.net . hammock in the palms on Cocoa Island. WorldMags.net ISLE OF SKY Clockwise from left: a waiter at Cocoa’s Ufaa restaurant.

The executive chef is playing beach cricket the dark.” The Maalifushi water suite. He fishes. panicky. Partly it’s the seclusion but also me. distracting since I left Australia. making every stroll an aquarium excursion. a caramel-coloured paste – marine biologist. a lot of ocean gazing. But why at Maalifushi’s Madi time. and splash and fruit chaat salad only ever be a handful of surfers out here at the same down. or perhaps rice The reefs are a revelation for Maalifushi’s resident flavoured with rihaakuru. and perfect for they vanish. Coral gardens the national dish: garudhiya. skipjack. thrice. A green Late afternoon – before a last-dinner spread of turtle rises from the dark.” rocking themselves to sleep in coral branches. this tasty world on day and night snorkelling trips with guests. or as sashimi in the Japanese my fear to the end of a jetty and prepare to snorkel in restaurant. a marine biologist and simply or in the tandoor. have clean. slower. Born in Darwin. alongside “You have to manage the fear. I suspect. and by boiling and skimming tuna for hours. more when we arrive.COM. Tim de Souza worked in The fish drift closer to us. Called valhoamas. We meet a group of local surfers on the neighbouring island of Guraidhoo. “The resort really opens up these spinner dolphins begin spinning – they launch with pickled wing bean amazing spots to surfers. One of the finest breaks have enough they have time. They’re chasing waves around the world with their private surf coach.net . and the otherwise ago at Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos Islands. to play. manages supply. # 144 GOURMETTRAVELLER. “Now. rock shrimp. spin once. Francesco Comezzi.” says Comezzi. and we all go searching for a fish dinner. Clockwise from above: tandoor-cooked live-aboard boats to find the atoll’s long curving reef indicating the middle distance. says Potter. keep breathing. but the good thing is there’ll themselves vertically. twice. onion. Madi’s dining area. Everyone will be sitting down soon to underwater world is eye-popping. “My style has become a lot bolder the fear. A Californian mother and daughter at the resort are surfing Farms the next morning.” says Tropicsurf instructor Gavin Potter. is Farms. and purple starfish pop out of nowhere. then 20 dolphins REEF RETREAT among global surfers willing to charter seaplanes and crowding close. yellowfin tuna. It’s Friday. lobster with a royal wave. a day for prayer and rest in this Islamic republic. We switch the Melbourne and Tokyo. Something a market garden. and detail. And there’s the big opalescent parrotfish gently this immersion in traditional southern cuisine. to rest at night. Ubud. then drab coral springs into shocking fluorescent colour as exec chef at Cocoa Island. a medium-sized right-hander that’s “still dolphins keep spinning on and off for an hour. Deep breaths. where a slow walk along sandy streets gives a glimpse of life for 2500 people. smoked and dried tuna is central to the Maldivian and mentions that parrotfish lodge themselves in coral economy and table. The crazy daylight energy ebbs. One over-achiever spins four times. I manage yourself. paddles a circle and departs kingfish. and Potter guides daily trips and “They’re intelligent animals. uncluttered lines and luxe textures: A handful of old homes are made of coral. swims. in a southern Indian family. lemon juice and with life. surfboard Noosa-based luxury surf expedition company has a but for what exact reason we’re not sure. WorldMags. timber.” he says. menus and 60 staff. if not to find food or a mate? “It’s social behaviour restaurant. Suddenly a dozen masala-spiced jobfish waves and barrels. cooked That night I take a torch. the public seats dotted around the island.net intermediate surfers. watch out there. Opposite: taking shack at the resort. He talks about this complex marine sun in a backyard factory. then joined Como five years torches to UV light for a moment. The surfers are watching the ocean from a row of joli. and has planted The effect is so trippy I cut the light. canoes.” Comezzi says. By contrast.AU WorldMags. linen. That might also be dinner. At sunset under the radar”. each with a name rather than a number. A posse of oriental sweetlips waft by. a practice unpolished stone. perhaps. made of fishing nets slung on steel frames. he says.” a raw-food spa menu and lots of fresh fish. They feed and when they in the view from a coaches surfers of all abilities. We watch it he’s fascinated by the difference a sustainable fishing simmering near racks of smoked tuna drying in the industry makes. our guide named his Paris. A reef has a different tempo at night. There are a lot of seats and. fewer. It appears in Maldivian and southern Indian “But snorkelling at night isn’t for everyone. the youngest of 12 waltz than jitterbug. The spin. and all is quiet as we pass anchored dhoni and brightly painted concrete-block homes. An island is a place to challenge stings my neck. who grew up “fish silicon” is how our guide describes it – extracted and studied in the Mediterranean and the UK. – we head to a channel just beyond Maalifushi and idle Until now Thaa Atoll has been a well-kept secret in the chop. dishes at one of Maalifushi’s restaurants. the since banned. hire. a simple fish soup with beneath the jetties linking lagoon villas are teeming rice. and careful snorkellers can sidle close. Soon there are 10. often spiced with dried chilli.

net transfers cost $977 per boat for up to four people. Brisbane to Singapore.com Maalifushi. person. 60-minute seaplane and SilkAir from Darwin. Malé airport (about 40 where staff arrange surf minutes). STAYING THERE $386 per person one way. in the southern Thaa Atoll. including breakfast. flights between its connecting twice a day to resorts on Cocoa and Malé. comohotels. has garden rooms from PRINT $1050 a night. T H E F INE Maalifushi by Como. Take a 50-minute flight GETTING THERE from Malé airport to Singapore Airlines Thimarafushi. return private tropicsurf. Shared return office (aka surf shack) speedboat transfers from at Maalifushi by Como. Melbourne. including Noosa Heads. over-water suites from $1675 a night. singaporeair. WorldMags. Cocoa Island by Como.net . followed operates 120 flights a week by a 25-minute speedboat from Sydney.net WorldMags. Perth and Como operates private. cost $346 per expeditions and coaching. has an breakfast. has Tropicsurf. and between Malé airport and Maalifushi. a global surf over-water suites from safari operator based in $1250 a night. ride to Maalifushi. Or Adelaide.com in South Malé Atoll.

the Mornington Peninsula has never been better – just ripe for the summer holidays. writes Michael Harden.net MORNINGTON glory With new chefs and new venues bolstering the already impressive eating and drinking on offer. WorldMags. PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA WorldMags.net .

net . Opposite: The clear waters of the Mornington Peninsula’s Safety Beach.ESTATE OF PLAY The dining areas at Port WorldMags.net Phillip Estate overlook the vineyard. WorldMags.

have been turning heads for years and have defined set to keep pushing the envelope. the producers crafting impressive.> 148 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM. Its success has set a benchmark for casually sophisticated dining in the region. the producers or simply the land itself. magnetic: bay and ocean beaches. “I’m looking forward to a summer of exploring. There’s a good argument to be made for declaring it the best regional dining spot in the country. The arrival of a raft of new chefs and new ideas abound from one side of the in Red Hill.” she says. With new names bolstering the already impressive Andrew Doughton The Mornington Peninsula’s established players array of eating and drinking options. casual Piazza and Garden Café. has made the already impressive Mornington Peninsula to the other. Quality isn’t in short supply. its charms are spread before you. the Port Phillip the Peninsula Link freeway) and the region’s pulling with hop yard and sunny deck).AU WorldMags. Polperro’s And then there’s the dining. and the long more than a decade.” Any explorer new to the region would do well to seek out the establishments that best embody the local style. and will also be here all month cooking at the second annual instalment of the GT-Gertrude Street pop-up at Avani Red Hill. Montalto and Foxeys Hangout – vineyard restaurants focused on local produce all.net – than ever. And Salix at Willow Creek.net . but there’s a relaxed breeziness to the scene. amazing views for almost 25 years. apples. is another pioneer of the peninsula’s flexible. the region seems picks broccolini flowers. but it somehow adds to its rakish charm. And Stillwater at Crittenden winding roads that open suddenly to breathtaking Estate. And then finishing up each day with a swim at Point Leo. fairytale pine trees. Among the most influential of these have been Ten Minutes by Tractor. “finding new produce. seeing what other chefs are doing with it in the region. WorldMags. Foxeys Hangout’s cellar door. fertile farmland thick with grapevines and which has been dishing up solid Italian food and cherry orchards. rugged sea Then there’s Max’s Restaurant at Red Hill Estate. New places. The dial at Ten Minutes by Tractor may be set towards fine dining. meanwhile. thoroughly enjoyable experience that’s part canteen. It’s often frenetic. have long Estate cellar door. with people savoured. casual and treasures jealously. catered well to a more easygoing crowd.” says Brigitte Hafner. “I love being a part of the peninsula. often clever ways. Factor kitchen garden. and shady picnic areas set among the vines and wetlands. but each different in its approach. meanwhile. which comprises a handsome glass- walled à la carte dining room. whether it’s produce. Its virtues are as varied as they are crowded around tables and sprawled on the outside deck. The moment you arrive. on the other hand. Whelan and Brigitte Hafner. cooking with it. new Opposite: hay fields a certain peninsula style. cliffs. Hafner has just bought into the area. part osteria. seafood – but in pretty. has done something unique by ditching the restaurant The Mornington Peninsula doesn’t guard its model altogether for a rambunctious. where chef Bernard McCarthy has been PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN LAURIE (HAFNER & WHELAN PORTRAIT) Then there’s the wall-to-wall wineries. Daniel power is very easy to understand. aesthetically conscious style. The Gertrude Street Enoteca chef (and Gourmet Traveller regular) says she never has to look far here for inspiration. there to be part tavern. Clockwise from top left: in that it’s only just over an hour from Melbourne More casual places such as the excellent bistro at Paringa Estate’s wallaby (a drive made even simpler since the 2013 opening of the Flinders Hotel and the Red Hill Brewery (replete tartare. just ripe for the restaurant scene even more impressive – and diverse summer holidays. one of the first restaurants on the peninsula big-sky sea views or plunge dramatically through to work its menu around the produce growing in the IN FLAVOUR avenues of dark. Montalto. who can be counted among the newcomers. honey. tomato and strawberry fields. vibrant Euro-leaning food for of artisan cheese and bread and chocolate. gnarled. players. Chef Stuart Bell emphasises the local – cheese.

WorldMags.net The Mornington Peninsula’s virtues are as varied as they are magnetic: bay and ocean beaches. fertile farmland.net . rugged sea cliffs. WorldMags.

In less than a year. A lengthy driveway cuts through vineyards and near the entrance to the bistro will have visitors an impressive avenue of pale-barked gum trees jostling for a position when the weather cools. the Kirby family. polperrowines. 150 Red Hill Rd.au and transformed it into one of the peninsula’s most elegant destinations. A wall of Doughton of Polperro beans. lawns (featuring sculpture and swings) and views to Polperro also offers accommodation. WorldMags. attention as one of the peninsula’s best casual lunch The colours and textures sync perfectly with the destinations. the seared served with pickled cumquats and caramelised fennel.com. Yabby Lake’s restaurant.COM. The consulting chef.AU WorldMags. before twisting and turning a few times to deposit Chef Andrew Doughton is in Polperro’s kitchen you outside a 1970s-era brick-and-timber house where. he says. and impressive artwork from the Lake. chef Andrew such as vibrant snow peas with cashew nuts and black collection of the owners. supported by timber detailing. dramatic Yabby Lake. they’ve Polperro Wines. Red Hill. windows opens out onto an umbrella-shaded deck.net POLPERRO WINES with open fireplaces. unfussy likes of pork building is now dining room and cellar door. Bistro (above). a sandy-coloured scallop salad at Yabby Crisp master-stock chicken and punchy side dishes. For those reluctant to leave the idyllic setting. leather and tile. “the garden drives the menu”. The surrounded by bush.net . and his wife Emma. the Clockwise from top: Table dishes up the good-looking. has been attracting a truly lovely fit-out by designers Hecker Guthrie. central spa baths and king-size The beautiful property once known as Vines of Red beds are designed for couples and ideal lodgings after Hill was sold last year to winemaker Sam Coverdale a session on the deck under the gums. best known for single-vineyard palette of greys and dark timber. YABBY LAKE VINEYARD The new incarnation embraces a dark. FULL DECK former chef (and still owner) at Red Hill’s The Long Once the original home on the property. views from here extend over the vines towards the dam There’s much to like before you even get to the and picnic areas. The the deck at Polperro’s shoulder wood-grilled on canes from the vineyard and modest scale adds a homely charm that’s ably villas. added accommodation (03) 5989 2471. while a small lounge with a fireplace food. reopened the restaurant. terrazzo floor. Four new villas distant Mount Eliza. Blake’s menu proves he’s still 150 GOURMETTRAVELLER. show both simplicity and interest. via chardonnay and pinot noir. particularly now that respected magnificent eucalypts that flank the central restaurant Melbourne chef Andrew Blake is on board as building and shade the newly extended deck.

com. MERRICKS GENERAL WINE STORE mgwinestore. Quealy). Now Merricks General Wine Store has entered intricate food made with locally sourced ingredients a new phase. Euro-influenced accessibility kitchen after closing his long-running Kooyong that’s here influenced by both the local produce and the restaurant. yabbylake.au It’s been around since 1924. (03) 5989 8088. surrounded Clockwise from top left: Polperro’s master-stock up without forsaking any of the historic-shed by lawns. until then. Lunch in the old shed (or on the lovely sun-trap Yabby Lake Vineyard. Front of house guy Clinton Trevisi and husband. Three alumni from Dunkeld’s acclaimed Royal Mail potential candidate for levelling. complete with a clever. this quaint tin-and-timber shed on the Frankston-Flinders Road. a handsome white building PIER SUPPORT Its timber-floored rooms with high ceilings are spruced that also houses the winery’s cellar door. (03) 5974 3729. an Edna Walling garden and vineyards. Merricks General Wine Store owner Samantha A broad bean and pea risotto is teamed with a Baillieu says that while the kitchen under Repellin has Red Hill washed-rind goat’s cheese. limited and booking ahead is an excellent idea. roasted mushrooms with Sunny Ridge Strawberry Farm become fritters served prosciutto and Gruyère – having the talented French with vanilla mascarpone and fig vincotto.net 151 . including as a dilapidated.com Merricks General Wine Store. of an outside terrace) has never looked better. while a fish pie. space is added some Burgundian country style” to the menu. Elgee Park. estate’s wine. is made using the “country casual” – goat’s cheese and asparagus tart. chicken. day’s catch from Port Phillip Bay. Tuerong. WorldMags. Dromana Estate winery. (Baillieu. the dining cooked-simply side of the ledger. It’s now one of the Hotel have joined forces in the old homestead on best casual dining places on the Mornington Peninsula. 86-112 Tuerong Rd. and the front of the and-wife chefs Janine and Rowan Herrald have created room at Merricks store acts as cellar door to three of the region’s wineries a smart modern restaurant in the bright.> WorldMags. Merricks. dinghies at ambience. with chef Patrice Repellin running the and produce from the restaurant’s gardens.net a master of fine-tuned. The menu sticks to the quality-ingredients. The dining chef on board has “raised the bar a little more and room is due to be expanded but. Flinders Pier. airy old house General Wine Store. Koots Salle à Manger. and has had TERRE many incarnations since. stuck with the existing (highly successful) brief of flavoured with leek and chardonnay. Strawberries from a steak with béarnaise. single-page wine list and pine cones on the Merricks deck. 3460 Frankston- Flinders Rd.

152 GOURMETTRAVELLER. which also has a fantastic deli and produce store. while at Heronswood House (105 Latrobe Pde. Those looking for the Euro-style bar with good food option should try the Italian-leaning Assaggini (1c Albert St. which has an excellent list of Australian and international craft beer accompanied by beer-friendly eats. 03 9428 5363) offers her signature breads. Sorrento.net BEACH DINING ESSENTIALS If you’d rather not venture too far from the beaches of Port Phillip Bay you’ll find plenty to please you in this part of the peninsula. the produce from the extensive and beautiful gardens surrounding the historic house drives the menu in the café. particularly if you’re happy with the casual/flexible end of the scale.COM. 03 9787 6111). Pizza lovers will be well served by the Mornington outpost of city favourite DOC (22 Main St.AU WorldMags. gets his Euro bar-and- bistro thing on at Bistro Maison (45 Mount Eliza Way. 03 5984 7318). The new kiosk from baking queen Phillippa Grogan of Melbourne institution Phillippa’s (241 Main St. Mornington. Merc’s Bier Café (25 Main St. Dromana. 03 5973 5599). Sorrento. 03 5984 4004). Anyone after a more Middle Eastern flavour should try Dee’s Kitchen (19 Pier St. Bernard McCarthy. 03 5977 0988). 03 5984 4995) there’s good eating to be had from breakfast to nightcap and Seven Seeds coffee to boot. Mount Eliza. 03 5973 5791) or Paul Mercurio’s new joint. slices and pastries. Mornington.net . For excellent views to accompany your muesli in the morning or freshly shucked oysters or apple cider-battered fish and chips at night you couldn’t get much better than the one at The Rocks Mornington (1 Schnapper Point Dr. and by the sleek and shiny Italico (1 Esplanade. WorldMags. At Cakes & Ale (102 Ocean Beach Rd. 03 5981 4666). 03 5973 6372). Mornington. from Willow Creek’s Salix restaurant. Dromana. Mornington. Mornington.

list of escargot. the restaurant’s menu has Rowan and Janine Herrald rolls. while pork belly could be teamed with chorizo. may not be an immediate choice Scott Ledgar. Smoked trout might be served with smoked butter cream. Tuerong. chocolate mousse and best thing about Johnny Ripe is much more than the crème brûlée. The Herralds keep the menu tightly focused with just four entrées. make a tree-change in 2010 and find themselves where fishing. The apple ingredients. like a farm gate. Saturdays. they move it to nearby Red Hill Lavender farm. Add a wine list where Mornington Peninsula just passing through. Actually the duck.com. 1985. Terre. chervil and buckwheat. while certainly a rather lovely deck. 555 Old Moorooduc Rd. Main Ridge. especially when you get the> WorldMags. glass of wine in hand. and worth a trip to Tuerong in themselves. Now they’re open for breakfast of Le Bouchon. steak with béarnaise. The room is a crème brûlée tart. timber bistro chairs. It’s also becoming one of the most well Terre and their cherry tart.au LE BOUCHON The Balnarring Shopping Village. squid and eggplant. even when you’re Walford. the unlikely location actually adds to the charm They get busier. Two chefs from Sydney. Dromana Estate. They begin making pies. such as Cox’s orange pippin – always sell out. Opposite. PARINGA ESTATE Le Bouchon. whipped up with élan by chef Dave food. those apple pies will sell out. with the outside world seeming like a vague. wines rub shoulders with some reasonably priced Johnny Ripe. WorldMags. is a sure-fire ticket to a feeling of deep well-being. He grew up on a farm Dargan. where the changing weekly menu might The France-Soir approach – keep it classic. pastries. 284 Main Creek Rd. Chances are that if you’ve eaten on the Mornington (03) 5983 2012. Balnarring. the wild mushrooms have been picked by Julian Hills. Paringa Estate is particularly known for its pinot sourdough from Terre. deck while waiting to buy supplies for the weekend. revelatory flavour-bombs that might involve figs and cherries or chocolate and salted caramel délice with apricots. terre. Michelle Ball and Adam Hills is that kind of guy. and and specialty stores. gravlax with asparagus and capers. banquettes and clean white walls. a classic French bistro owned by and lunch from Friday to Sunday and dinner on one-time France-Soir waiter Stephane Salers. Paringa Estate vines. confit rest assured. It’s a little off the beaten track.com. The menu continues the theme with a greatest-hits They’ve even figured out which days to go because. who runs the front of house.au may not be typical of the region but is very much a valuable addition to the scene as a whole. Johnny Ripe has become something of a and there’s a fabulous little outside area furnished with community hub. which makes finding the place (not all that hard really) seem pie and pastries.com. They team up with a couple of steadfastly practical place bristling with a supermarket friends – Alice Heath. Terre feels completely of its place. main courses and desserts. head JOHNNY RIPE chef for the past three years at Paringa Estate. and you have a dining experience that (03) 5989 6515. They get busy. the Granny Smith and more obscure heirloom varieties Established by winemaker Lindsay McCall in team from Johnny Ripe. The business starts to overwhelm the home and noir and shiraz. made from their own fruit – both the familiar known in the region. Shop 3/8-10 Russell St. has a concrete-floored. clockwise from pies. to reflect the availability of produce. which Johnny Ripe’s apple. and point of cliché – is very much in evidence. a fellow chef – and are able to persuade of dining location for most visiting the Mornington people to stick around for a coffee and a pastry while Peninsula. artistic. It makes you feel like a local. pretty. (03) 5974 3155. top left: Flinders Pier. casseroles and soups that they sell from become a noticeable champion of peninsula and Clinton Trevisi of their house. duck liver pate. cakes. pork rillettes. views. keep it include grain-mustard roast beef with salad and simple. Peninsula. as locals catch up on the sunny French café tables and chairs. and he’s brought the philosophy to Paringa.net Yet despite all the restaurant smarts on display. sausage During his time there. Janine Herrald’s desserts are odd. But despite the absence of vineyard-stitched picking up supplies from the produce shop. slightly annoying memory despite the proximity of the freeway to Melbourne.net 153 .au Peninsula during mushroom season. Sitting on the terrace on a balmy day. timber-lined restaurant with a a little more rewarding. pull back on the French tropes just before the potatoes. lebouchon. johnnyripe. all of which change frequently. hunting and foraging were a part of his GRAPE ESCAPE on a 70-year-old apple orchard on the Mornington DNA. French bottles.

com. Subsequently. or a local orange-blossom honey panna cotta that shines a spotlight on poached Red Hill quinces. who has brought with him a pared-back.au apples and strawberries. Something It’s a style of food well suited to the ever-changing of a win-win-win.net . filled with Andrew Doughton. framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. fields and. the view over Port Phillip “breathtaking” without feeling overly dramatic. but Smithers. It’s an impressive venue. bistro and cellar door are surely good idea as the wine list has changed direction under the Mornington Peninsula’s prime money shot. Chef Stuart Deller took over the kitchen about six months ago and has found balance. Red Hill South. You can actually use the word style of The Long Table is a good fit. Red Hill South. Opposite: distance. the new regime. one that takes Paringa Estate. available is clever. There might be expertly cooked suckling pig with choucroute and celeriac purée. There’s a wide range available by the glass as Paringa Estate’s chef Julian Hills and the to the entrance. cheese. Its rustic more casual-leaning menu (03) 5989 2326. lamb sweetbreads teamed with apple and hazelnuts. (03) 5931 0136.au THE LONG TABLE With co-owner and former chef at The Long Table. perfect for PORT PHILLIP ESTATE those who want to make a pitstop for a quick glass of The automatic timber doors leading to Port Phillip wine on The Long Table’s shaded veranda. but what is potato croquettes served with saffron aïoli and fennel. availability of produce on the peninsula. such as ham hock and Manchego croquettes. was time to change the direction of their long-running Somewhat sacrilegiously. (03) 5989 4444. in the good snapshot of local beer and cider. there’s a new spring in its step. Port Phillip Estate. Hills says he “doesn’t Red Hill restaurant. Hill). VINE DINING From the car park.au # 154 GOURMETTRAVELLER. such as the spaghetti that’s served with local with asparagus. thelongtable. olives. the doors swing open to reveal an well as the carafe – including one-off wines from local estate’s sourdough rolls. Gertrude Street Enoteca and last year’s is actually his way of being hyper-responsive to the Gourmet Traveller pop-up at Avani Winery in Red ever-changing availability of ingredients around him. pleasing and pretty. producers tapped straight from the barrel – plus a Port Phillip Estate’s that takes in a sweep of vines. but with its outdoor terrace a perfect place for a quick coffee. modern space with a fine-dining offering that’s refined but not stitched-up. But as you walk country. believe in seasonal menus”. portphillipestate. He delivers pretty and complex dishes but they are more relaxed. particularly in a country setting. now cooking up the road at green fields. Red Hill South. and polished service.net runs from small plates. 159 Shoreham Rd. There’s a separate blackboard bar menu. which may sound Enter chef Daniel Whelan (formerly of Annie counterintuitive. freeing the food from the previous finicky bonds of dust and squiggles for a more honest approach that can stand up to its imposing surrounds. windowless and slightly forbidding. every week or so. and burrata with salami. To the left is the restaurant. The gorgeous wallaby tartare with His menu is one where everything is made caper emulsions and juniper. The new bistro suckling pig. pickled pine mushroom and goat’s mussels and a jamón crumb. which is a Estate’s restaurant. and the baccalà and cheese may not be available all the time. first glimpse of the beautiful countryside. Peninsula wines and boutique labels from around the Estate’s dining room.COM. to mains that might include duck confit or a simple sirloin with frites. door and bistro. It’s a grand. 263 Red Hill Rd.AU WorldMags. the vast Wood/Marsh-designed It’s now all-Australian with a focus on Mornington From top: Port Phillip building appears like a rammed-earth fortress. 44 Paringa Rd.com. he and wife Samantha Fitzgerald decided it provide the outlook for lunch. Estate’s vineyard. he tends to change a few things ingredient-focused Euro style. vineyards and black-green pine trees that Polperro.com. or the pan-fried gnocchi in-house. full advantage of local fish. WorldMags. After 11 years. ocean. paringaestate. it’s also a big follower of the casually sophisticated playbook. incredible view. mushrooms. On the right of the high-ceilinged space is the cellar The Long Table.

Red Hill South. 166 T H E F INE Flinders.au (03) 5981 9555.au Ten Minutes By Tractor. Hill-Shoreham Rd. (03) 5931 0177. Foxeys Hangout. Red Hill Brewery. montalto. Dromana. (03) 5989 com. Max’s. (03) 5989 Red Hill. stillwateratcrittenden. salixrestaurant. Balnarring Rd. 6080.com. Red Hill Estate.au North.au EAT AND DRINK 8412. 25 Harrisons Rd. 33 Shoreham Rd. Salix. Stillwater at Crittenden. (03) 5989 7640.com. (03) 5989 2959. Red Hill South.net Flinders Hotel.au com. 88 Red 1333 Mornington-Flinders 795 White Hill Rd. (03) 5989 2022.com.au PRINT 53 Shoreham Rd. maxsrestaurant. Willow Creek. foxeys-hangout. WorldMags. Red Hill Rd.au WorldMags. South.com. Montalto. tenminutesbytractor.net . Main Ridge.au redhillbrewery. Merricks flindershotel.com.com. Cook St. (03) 5989 0201.

however. Managed by a subsidiary. with a mission to turn stage of a three-year plan. the resort’s guided botanical walks and storytelling sessions – public relations director. Ayers a showcase of indigenous employment and tourism. swift. at Voyages traditional owners. with regional tourism celebrating its heritage. changes are the appearance of works by local indigenous Rock Resort. commissioned by Hayley in tandem with art Australia. including skydiving. rust-red rocks and their intense colours at sunrise and Travellers had long complained there were few sunset appear timeless. a suite Ayers Rock Resort and Longitude 131. 252 indigenous deepening the fissures that score the flanks of Uluru employees and plans to boost that number to half its and Kata Tjuta. Managing director James Restaurant at Sails the former Voyages Hotels & Resorts complex into describes it as “immediate renewal”. ways to learn about the culture of the region’s Just beyond the national park. took on a 30-year operating lease in November Clockwise from above: Uluru. the pace of change in the past four years engage with indigenous culture – from traditional has been furious.” progressively upgrading the other four accommodation Not since the landmark agreement of 1985 – in options. “The destination has undergone a dance and interactive didgeridoo performances to complete rejuvenation.” says Karena Noble. the resort’s top-end hotel. WorldMags.net Uluru rising The spiritual heart of Australia is undergoing a transformation for travellers and local communities. owned by James and Hayley ROCK OF AGES There were two indigenous employees at the Red Baillie. The range of guest activities has been boosted which the Australian Government handed Uluru back to about 65 pursuits. Voyages Indigenous Tourism artists. airport centres in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara 156 GOURMETTRAVELLER. who in turn around the rock and a premium dining-under-the-stars leased and now jointly administer it with the National experience for no more than 20 people at a time. In response.COM. geologically speaking. cycling PHOTOGRAPHY KARA ROSENLUND (BUSH FOOD) to its traditional owners. writes Helen Anderson. the Anangu. now has a years.net .000 and tour operations at Yulara. Little has changed at Uluru in 30. Ilkari by the Indigenous Land Council. a luxury tent at Centre resort when it was bought in October 2010 2013 and immediately embarked on the $2 million first Longitude 131. Parks and Wildlife Service – has there been such The changes at Longitude 131 have been even more substantial change. Apart from water erosion national indigenous training academy. says Noble. The most obvious in the Desert. the resort’s five accommodation sites. “Every aspect of the guest has proved popular. near Uluru. experience has been examined and improved with the The new owners spent $30 million refurbishing aim of creating a centre of excellence in indigenous Sails in the Desert.AU WorldMags. Baillie Lodges. and are tourism in the spiritual heart of Australia. the monumental splendour of the workforce of about 750 by 2018. the five-star of free daily experiences designed to help guests tented camp.

With architect Max Pritchard. Moss. ayersrockresort. costs from $322 per night. Like the art. Moss’s light touch is best seen in private guided walks in neighbouring Kata Tjuta. all the enhancements are commissioned for fireplaces and luxury swags for a night under the stars. each of the tents is named after a white House. added to the existing tents to house daybeds.net 157 . Resort has five a day of touring. and in the house salad. 1300 134 044. tents and lounge areas on the achievements of white each with a pool. excursions and transfers to Ayers Rock uniforms by RM Williams to the group’s customised will feature a heated infinity pool.au Murray River cod – and seasonal bush food. local and exotic ingredients GETTING THERE (clockwise from top left): Virgin Australia and lemon myrtle leaves. the communal space. a superior room at Sails in the Desert. including all dining. Daintree Before I fall asleep one night I flick a bedside switch 2015. “It’s a 10-kilometre circuit – all flat. the aforementioned sustainably harvested to raise the shades on the wall of windows in my tent.au The same could be said for the menus under chef broadened and “rechoreographed” to be more flexibile: Voyages Ayers Rock Seona Moss. a new entrance to the Dune managed by Baillie Lodges. nights or more cost from designers Pierre and Charlotte Julian. Packages for three “Baillie beds” and bespoke furniture by Melbourne with outdoor dining nooks. and Arthur G. very special. longitude131. Jetstar has four direct flights a week from Melbourne. choko and helicopter expeditions to Cave Hill and Mount hotel to a campground. explorers. decks and terraces airport. With a private helipad and new fleet of vehicles. the range of guest activities at Longitude has been 4355. as the sun rises over Uluru. WorldMags. and pickled cabbage. and avocado. is a fine example of the oft-neglected Some of the most memorable experiences are the including breakfast. James loves running at sunrise around the premium Tali Wiru dunetop has done stints at Vue de Monde and Noma. a little eerie and very. lands. outdoor per night. who trained at E’cco in Brisbane and simplest. (02) 9918 The look is lighter: less heritage. # WorldMags. Rock Airport from Sydney. a spa.net TRAVEL PRESENT TENTS THE FIN E Clockwise from top left: Longitude 131’s Dune House. and rock-facing balconies cost from $1. which. which are both light and satisfying after sunset cocktails at secluded spots around Uluru.com.” from $325 per person and runs daily 1 April-15 October cheese from Hindmarsh Valley Dairy. twin share. from ceramics by Malcolm Greenwood and The dunetop behind Longitude. dining experience costs to premium Australian produce – raw goat-milk emme quiet. chocolate. open the lodge. who year. Wakagetti cultural dancers at Voyages Ayers Rock Resort. tents at Longitude 131. finger direct flights to Ayers limes and annatto spice. an unforgettable hour. Conner. a lesser-known but spectacular monolith A three-night stay at Sails with its lively mix including fennel. bar. Qantas flies direct from Cairns and Alice Springs. a luxury tent and canapés on PR IN T one of their tours. including I wake as the horizon appears and lie propped up for quandongs and muntries during my visit. $2970 per person. The standard.100 per person pioneer and features their journals and photographs. more contemporary. Jetstar operate daily quandong seeds. “A core part of our vision is the celebration of More extensive work on Longitude will start this STAY indigenous heritage and culture. from Sails in the Desert dishes such as bark-wrapped Murray River cod.com. the Baillies are Luxury air-conditioned sees this as complementing the existing focus in guest planning two new two-bedroom tented pavilions. with its priceless view. has access base of the rock.” says James. accommodation options. heirloom tomatoes 100 kilometres east of Uluru.

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net TRAVEL FREE PASS The balmy beaches of Bali are now even more accessible to Australians. Most year can enter without a visa. A thousand send visa applications by courier. all of which allow their of war. even holders have had to go online (via vfsglobal. the million or so documents from the UK. # WorldMags. the with a document requesting their safe The flying time is an hour less than to Perth. last year listed introduce 30-day visas on arrival for citizens Chinese – who outnumbered Australian the Australian passport in seventh place for its of 180 countries. which saw commonly thought that the Persian king Service Centre in Melbourne if they want a 64. Indonesian Government estimates the move when armed with a visa. ie. it does exist). Joko Widodo. with the onset Australians who venture to Indonesia each Finland and Sweden. of writing. From January 1. Indonesian move strengthens the global reach conduct. England’s King Henry V enshrined make a pilgrimage to Perth. New Zealand). Indonesia in five years. by removing visa requirements.net 159 . thanks to the bearers visa-free travel to 174 countries. Indian visas on arrival were The move is about more than putting the Singapore and New Zealand had passports only available to citizens of 13 countries US$35 ($40) visa fee back in our pockets more powerful than ours. the US. though President (including. passports became widespread. As of 2014 the likes of Canada. It’s must now go to the India Passport & Visa to the experience in South Korea. in typically meticulous British style. President Widodo’s Widodo’s generosity should see us climb to Australians. WorldMags. The significance of visa-free travel is that.5 million visa-free) in this year’s league table. annoyingly. Residents of the PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA over four years after waiving visas. fingerprints and “facial imagery”. For and streamlining entry. History doesn’t record precisely when the this means in practice is that Tasmanians The country’s Tourism Ministry points first visa or passport came into being. applying for an Indian visa is grand plan is to double tourist numbers to at least level with Greece (169 countries now more exasperating than ever. unrestricted access to 168 countries. Hong personal letters requesting their safe passage Northern Territory. At around the same time in France. they should have known better. Australians are among the five The Henley Visa Restriction Index. At the time Japanese and South Korean travellers. Access more areas and. By the early 20th century. but automatically entitled to enter a country. Denmark. Australian passport arrivals in 2014 to 20 million by 2019. format of the British “old blue” prototype. it’s nations adopted the easily recognisable country’s president. the bearer is not com) to make an appointment with a visa will cost it US$11 million in lost fees. took on life-saving powers after the despotic Robespierre decreed that all citizens must carry their identity papers in public or risk Seeing the world just got a little have the open-sesame powers of travel the wrath of “Madame La Guillotine”. application centre and then front up in it’s banking on attracting an extra 450. What a billion US dollars into the economy. who previously could Kong managed to more than double visitor to Judah in the 5th century BC. tourists a year who will pump more than half make that decision. including Australia. By the 16th century the word and the $40 saved on visa fees will buy an of the Australian passport.000 Immigration authorities on the ground person to “register their biometric data”. alongside most clout (yes. While it doesn’t yet “passport” was in common use in England awful lot of Bintangs.5 per cent increase in Chinese tourists Artaxerxes furnished travelling officials with to lodge an application. the Bali is putting out the welcome mat to Australians with visa-free Revolution was in full swing and le passeport entry as soon as the new year ticks over. must now arrivals from Russia between 2008 and 2010 years later. in law the monarch’s right to issue subjects They’d be much better off going to Bali. writes Kendall Hill. from 9. simpler. an Indiaphiles rejoiced in February 2014 nationalities granted unrestricted entry to annual ranking of national passports with the when the government announced it would Indonesia by its new head of state. but arrivals for the first time last year – Russian. the National Archives now has records of every passport application dating back to 1795. The Since December. Germany. still one of the handiest passports to have. On a purely pragmatic level.

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pantry and a bathroom that’s a fantasyland in black Although Spring is Gyngell’s project of the marble. historic building facing the Thames that has served as British Admiralty GRAND HYATT headquarters.SPRING travel NEWS WorldMags.co. the Grand Hyatt it.uk BAGS OF GOODNESS Tough but soft. where Melbourne. by Sydney designer James Noakes. west of London in Hampshire. Gyngell has been absent from the London restaurant scene since she left Petersham Nurseries Café near Richmond. and I knew we could transform it into something truly beautiful. setting with a fancier wine service. The Premier Suite is priced to Heckfield Place. just beyond the western fringe of London. Shanghai and Tokyo routes from Auckland) now feature luxe new flat-beds. plus what might be the world’s best in-flight entertainment system (not to mention the funniest safety video in the sky). otherwise he’d struggle to find fault with the remodelled you’ll know her cooking style: strongly inspired by Italy rather than bound by Premier Suite at his old stamping ground. a butler’s adds vibrancy to a simple vegetable roast. Puntarelle Hotel designer Joseph Pang (Westin Sydney. $249. owned by (03) 9657 1234. Morningside. but If you’ve delved into one of the three cookbooks Gyngell has published. everyone translated into a much grander and slicker from Madonna to Michael Jackson has bedded down here. saying: “It’s been a curse. DESTINATION DINING airnewzealand.95. Mere Runaway backpack. needed a lot of work at MELBOURNE considerable (unspecified) cost. in 2012. 123 Collins St. And so it is at Spring. “To own my own restaurant has always been a dream. and simple. replacing the old décor agresto. who awarded Petersham Nurseries Cafe a star in 2011.com Spring’s investor. “What was then a dreary space had this stunning shard of light streaming through one of the arches. KENDALL HILL SKYE GYNGELL springrestaurant. mint and goat’s curd.hyatt. Noakes has created a photography project and is donating $5 from each sale to charity. Sydney) oversaw the makeover. Yet Gyngell quit a year later. what started out as a daytime café for wealthy hobby gardeners in 2004 soon started to attract the attention of critics and eventually the Michelin Guide inspectors. There. Since we got the star we’ve been rammed every single day. Melbourne.net 161 . “I fell in love with the site at Somerset House UPTOWN SUITE because of its beautiful natural light. Vic.com. From the Ground Up. a grand PREMIER SUITE. a country-house hotel $4. The cabins in its new Dreamliners (plying the Perth.185 per night. with modern finishes. It has dining for eight. new but ageless – this leather drawstring backpack is part of Mere Footwear’s new range.net WHERE TO BE & WHAT TO SEE AROUND THE WORLD EDITED BY ELIZA O’HARE KIA ORA Air New Zealand has upped the ante of its Business Premier offer. which is really hard for such a tiny restaurant. with a massive spa that looks like it’s from the moment. given it’s a new beginning for her.grand.” The new premises were a challenge – the disused Victorian wing of Somerset House.au WorldMags. but Spring took 18 months to come together.” Gyngell says. mere.” Billy Joel might mourn the loss of the grand piano. Spring is an apt name for Australian-born chef Skye Gyngell’s new restaurant in central London. To raise awareness of homelessness. Hilton is served with olive.” It was time for Gyngell to trade up. later in 2015 her attention will shift Playboy Mansion. The Premier Suite is a 182-square-metre her Petersham-style dishes have been apartment on the penthouse floor with a history. melbourne. a nutty salsa made with verjuice. then as a tax office since the 1850s.com AIR NEW ZEALAND’S BUSINESS Spring marks new beginnings PREMIER CABIN Skye Gyngell is back in her first outing as chef-patron.

Borghetti are once again looking disastrous for airlines. some or all of Virgin’s not be rebranded into a announced by February. He record numbers.AU WorldMags. despite Tigerair’s Borghetti told an aviation accommodation in many industry normally reports for the business”. same strategy during the a three-year capacity war cancelled loss-making for example.” flagship airline as well as Happily. 1 5 hermes. having and from the Gold Coast. $150 for 100ml. destinations – providing Borghetti also says Chief executive John price of shopping and The domestic air travel new growth opportunities that. as it turned run up the white flag – own includes “brand rights If Virgin switched those low-cost subsidiary Tigerair out for Aussie travellers. and travel Virgin and Tigerair holiday routes in the new Virgin identity. fell to record around 6 per cent. including annual growth averaging The question many air 2011 grounding by the Civil ILLUSTRATION LUAREN HAIRE would be “two or three new Indonesia. soared. (02) 9663 4277 5 HERMÈS Un Jardin sur le Nil EDT. this to fly to Bali from Perth.net . especially. though it still believes the [to be negotiated with services to Tigerair. given subdued downturn caused by a tickets onto the market: Borghetti won’t be consumer demand in the slowing economy. Fiji. it will 2015” with final plans to be leaving the country in slowed to just 1. airlines it’s great for travellers but drawn on the details of domestic market. in particular. Sydney and Melbourne to to acquire the 40 per cent to Bali from Melbourne. $219 for 100ml.COM.com 2 2 ACQUA DI PARMA Blu Mediterraneo EDT. Australians began the year to last June it had is will Tigerair take over for safety breaches. Virgin’s deal in October is significant with regard Adelaide. $140 for 100ml. services from Brisbane. (to the annoyance of some several of its domestic A330-200 widebody jets and is now looking Qantas customers). currency. For Tigerair’s new international BOARDING said the airline’s focus offshore for new places Tigerair. pack a scent of exotic climes.com 162 GOURMETTRAVELLER. which used the Virgin Australia waged domestically. arquiste. (02) 9663 4277 4 LAURA MERCIER Eau Fraiche EDT. 3 (02) 9663 4277 3 ANNICK GOUTAL Vent de Folie EDT. Phuket towards what many flying around the country. during which services from Sydney and low-cost subsidiary Jetstar 2007-2008 by reassigning it introduced its first Airbus Melbourne to Alice Springs. “We’re also said the “growth of the to Bali. Melbourne. but. with a possible the GFC preceded the war was necessary to Singapore’s Tiger Airways would likely experience Brisbane. meaning the class travel. had already felt the same way that Jetstar very happy with the Tigerair Australia domestic With the domestic repercussions of dumping has taken over holiday Tigerair brand. 4 1 ARQUISTE L’Etrog Acqua EDT. pundits see as its natural Tigerair is already happened in 2004 when It’s back to the future level. it has play but reassures PASS would be on international to fly their planes – even meant the need for a new customers that Virgin expansion and potential though the Aussie dollar strategy that avoids high Australia international new short-haul destinations is once again slipping back numbers of empty seats routes won’t suddenly BY CLIVE including Bali. it this year. # VANITY CASE WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES Wherever you head. Sydney and Brisbane. $160 for 100ml. Now the airline has of Tigerair it didn’t already Sydney and Brisbane. in shrinking mode Qantas vacated routes to for Virgin. 176-seat Boeing 737-800s on transcontinental overseas for new routes. short-haul international of service. appreciation of the establish its domestic Holdings] to fly Tigerair a backlash from customers Hong Kong route as well as Australian dollar to better alternative to Qantas’s Australia to a number of used to Virgin’s standard another to Singapore on than parity with the US monopoly on premium. around US$0. in travellers want answered Aviation Safety Authority Virgin routes to Asia in lows. troubled image after its conference recently there foreign countries.2 per cent. Perth. become Tigerair routes as DORMAN and New Zealand. For consumers.” Borghetti fleet was likely to be travel industry now in a thousands of below-cost routes from Qantas? told Boarding Pass. $60 for 100ml. “The question many air travellers want answered is will T he Virgin Australia Group promises new foreign destinations for its Tigerair take over some or all of Virgin’s holiday routes. in favour of its global financial crisis of with Qantas. the drawing board.70.or Sydney-to.net reduced”.travel NEWS WorldMags.

all meals and drinks. Built in 1890 for the Grand Duchess of it six years later – few resorts have been more anticipated. Rooms from $545. 1300 858 305. exotic and beguiling. on 30 January for a French Head to Crush food and HOT HOTELS feast (alilahotels. the work of Tahiti-based French designer medical facilities. with all the eco-credentials he wanted. Sea Bondi between Matches are held in Sydney. Nor in the restaurant with menus designed by Guy Martin of Paris’s Le Grand Véfour. a sauna and hammam. International All Stars Canberra and Newcastle (waterpolobythesea. One & Only’s $80 million revamp of Hayman Island means the company can now offer luxury bespoke Whitsunday as well as bush experiences. Expect a Brando legacy the stars across capital long lunches. MONTH TO… Head to Sydney’s Bondi Soccer fans will cheer from Icebergs on 3 January 9 January when Australia for Water Polo by the hosts the Asian Cup.com). Germany’s Baden-Baden nature guide at The Brando. Tahitian royalty holidayed. for centuries. The Brando opened last year. treatment steps up a notch this month with the opening Given the island’s natural beauty and hint of Hollywood glamour – Brando of Villa Stéphanie at Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa. a 20-minute flight from the Tahitian capital is no stranger to royalty – the likes of Queen Victoria and of Papeete. spent a decade fleshing out the concept with Brando. villastephanie. BRENNERS tahititravel.com). from December to food trucks galore The eco-friendly resort has been March (moonlight. wolganvalley. the villa features five floors of beauty.gov. (crushfestival.net 163 .au). 76530 Baden-Baden. Moonlight Cinema returns wine festival. bocce and cities. plunge pool and a private stretch of white-sand beach. WorldMags. a long-time resident of French Polynesia. Pierre-Jean Picart. The royal phenomenal new resort: cool. As a REGAL RETREAT As one of Europe’s spa towns. Australia and the Melbourne.com.au). (afcasiancup. oneandonlyresorts. built to the actor’s specifications. showcasing the JANUARY best of the visionary’s IS A GREAT light-art from 13 December to 8 June (nga. plus two nights at the InterContinental Tahiti in Papeete. Nor on the +49 7221 9000. Brisbane. Utah McCaskey of Chicago’s from 22 January for the Acadia takes up residence 10-day independent at the Alila Villas Uluwatu film festival. excursions and spa treatments. Resort developer Richard Bailey. chef Ryan Festival. Visit Sundance Film If you’re in Bali. 23-25 January in the Adelaide Hills. costs from $13.net THE BRANDO The National Gallery of Australia hosts the 31 exclusive James Turrell: A Retrospective in Canberra. including five nights at The Brando.com.au CHRISTINE McCABE PARK-HOTEL & SPA SECOND ONE & ONLY The Emirates Wolgan Valley resort will be rebranded under the One & Only Resorts’ umbrella. return flights from Australia with Air Tahiti Nui. Tumi Brando grew up on Tetiaroa and knows every nook and cranny of the pristine atoll in French Polynesia.com.com). No expense Baden. where with a host of new releases 35 wineries are taking part Tahitian resort and cult favourites under in various events.com WorldMags.au). near the discovered Tetiaroa while filming Mutiny on the Bounty in 1960 and bought Black Forest. making it the second Australian property for the group. A package.com MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD Polynesian day spa hidden in trees above a lake where. who dreamed of building an eco-friendly “university of the sea” on the atoll. Park City. These include power from the sun and coconut oil and an air-conditioning system cooled by seawater.360 per person twin share.com. Villa Stéphanie. each with custom-made French and Italian furniture. 10 years after the actor’s death. charter flights to Tetiaroa. detox and was spared on the 35 villas. Schillerstrasse 4/6. Marlon Brando’s granddaughter is like everything at this Napoleon III have taken the waters here.

$315. sheridan.com. GETTY IMAGES SANTIAGO (TRIP OF A LIFETIME) & WILL HORNER (TOWELS) with 32-inch seat pitch and FULL POINTS AIRLINE oversized windows. hills and dales filled with Masquerade.au 5 OUT OF OFFICE “Ipanema” beach towel. are jointly giving loyalty-scheme with 23-centimetre individual members more chances to earn SANTIAGO DREAMING screens (39 centimetres in and use points. 8-26 January. from Sorry Thanks I Love You. The whole Sydney Festival London and then caught a town has this incredible “The trip of my lifetime train to Stroud. 1800 625 516. and dozens of film. countryroad. important – so I flew to their cooking.COM. so really ever end because I was a kid and I used people often turn up on I got one of my closest 4 to read his books when his doorstep with freshly friends out of it. It’s an “His backyard is all long as we do. emirates. Sydney “I felt I needed to do nettles and wild garlic Festival.com. 1 MISSONI HOME “Ovidio” cotton towel. my favourite cobblestoned village to spend days picking children’s book author. Skywards sector from April. starwoodhotels. W and Sheraton. which is beautiful. Guests at Latin carrier LAN will fly business). The sleek director Asia Pacific. from Spence & Lyda.com.95. this on my own – it was that he and his wife use in sydneyfestival. filled with all of these blackberries and eating to ask his permission to incredible fresh produce lots of incredible food like 3 write the play that I have stores. It was the first hare stew and blackberry adapted from his book village in England to pie with clotted cream.com KATE MULVANY 1 STROUD KATE MULVANY Writer.com com.” 5 extraordinary book.95. spenceandlyda. He picked smell of fresh herby was the one that led me up at the station and garlic. promises members get points for Boeing 787s promise an passengers will “experience the Starwood hotel stays.com. $59.au 3 SHERIDAN “Curacoa” beach towel in Husk. which include new-age Dreamliners on the music and games channels. go back regularly. It was took me to meet his wife “We became really 2 to Gloucestershire in at their charming good friends and I now England. travel NEWS WorldMags.com 164 GOURMETTRAVELLER. In-flight Emirates and Starwood Hotels NEWS entertainment also steps up. spenceandlyda. have an organic store. to meet with 400-year-old cottage. future of flying”. every the reclusive Kit “Stroud is a really old eight or nine months.au 4 COUNTRY ROAD Boulevard beach towel. from Spence & Lyda. Starwood hotels. $275. $115. “The journey doesn’t “I had cancer when “Kit’s a bit famous. I think plucked ducks or fresh in constant contact. L I FE T I M E a stylish towel is essential for making a splash.AU WorldMags.au PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY (AIRLINE NEWS). the journey will last as saved my life. Williams. enhanced economy experience. for the Sydney Festival. we’re I was in hospital.net IN THE BAG BEACH TOWELS STROUD. so this was the book that cheeses and yoghurt. lan. GLOUCESTERSHIRE TR I P O F A Whether swimming or just sunning yourself.net . $84. Masquerade. me to this play. sorrythanksiloveyou.au 2 MISSONI HOME “Pablo” beach towel. LAN’s managing on Emirates flights.org. can earn miles daily Sydney-Auckland-Santiago Patricio Aylwin.

gleaming copper pipes carry a winning combination of food and design. Deliciously innovative of possibilities. housing a bespoke Architects and the hands on approach of the owners. cocktails are served throughout – from ground floor WorldMags.net The St. The multifaceted complex houses a restaurant serving The complex caters to every whim offering versatile genuine and authentic food reflecting the seasons event spaces that welcome an extraordinary range and regionality of Thailand. Hotel is a heritage listed St Kilda building dining dominated by a glass atrium and exotic vertical brought into modernity by skilfull design from Toscano garden to the upper floors. drinks area The Supper Club and an evening place Add to this Head Chef. Sean Judd who worked with The Social Club. a wide range of craft beers in The Public Bar. WorldMags. Attention to detail is evident in every Thai cooking guru David Thompson and you have facet of the building.net .

95 . registered in the U. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.99 12 months only $39.net nd INTERACTIVE VIDEO SLIDESHOWS EXTRA CONTENT EDITION Purchase a monthly or annual subscription 1 month only $4.99 Search for Gourmet Traveller in the App Store Available for iPad: appstore. the Apple logo and iPhone are trademarks of Apple Inc.com/magshop WorldMags.. Saving is calculated from the retail price of $8. and other countries.net Interactive edition available for your iPad. Yo WorldMags.S. Apple.

com/ The area is brimming vintage-style glassware EAT ME boxing gloves on beds metropolitanbangkok with new cafés and bars. dishes such as pearl-shell rocketcoffeebar. Thavibu. backyardtravel. namsaah. They source seasonal STAY in the 402 guestrooms. bars and restaurants. These for Bangkok’s most twist such as charred pork playful installations by new cafés. off Convent Rd. Artery. chase returned from New York salmon tartare wonton after stints at Jean tacos with Negronis made Georges and Eleven from fresh tangerine juice Madison Park to open Le and roasted mandarin (401 Du. almost surreal bars chops with braised kale. fast-paced Eat Me Australian siblings Darren and teeming with art. bangkokfoodtours.com as cushions made from swimming pool. whotelbangkok. international. Cafés and bars serving craft cocktails in shorts and oversized comohotels. this 2014 opening by New York design whereas its location was art (2/2 Silom Soi 19). Galleries Savour barrel-aged Thai-influenced dishes The W’s arty vibe and Silom. focused on Thai. buy Mon pottery and try desserts Tours’ award-winning walk through nearby and snacks such as fried flowers. and Cherie Hausler opened this welcoming restaurant 16 years ago.com (71/2 Sathorn Soi 10).Thitid the new gastro-pub of Tassanakajohn and chef Ian Kittichai (of Issaya Worathon Udomchalotorn Siamese Club). one on Asia’s 50 Best for local photography order classic cocktails and Lady Brett Modelled on an American PHOTOGRAPHY TERENCE CARTER GETTY IMAGES best known for its nightlife Restaurants list – that’s (87 Soi Pan). Soi handcrafted furniture Pipat 2. At Shanghai-inspired blackcurrant jus. available (320 Silom Rd). Thai-Chinese dishes while and gay scene. Silom Soi 7. home to the family-owned eateries such as Mr Soong’s country’s oldest Mon ethnic group. A glam bar was added SATHORN SQUARE. In late 2013 .netBANGKOK Thailand central Bangkok’s central Sathorn and Silom districts are vibrant. number Sathorn Soi 12). phed (aka roast duck and rice) at an island on Chao Phraya River. ledubkk. Sathorn Soi 12.com).net 167 . Backyard historic Bangrak. local artists. a lively pork (fed pineapple wine character of Sathorn. and original art for sale eatmerestaurant.com and neighbouring Silom. SEE Silom Soi 7. WorldMags.com Silom-Sathorn’s engaging cocktails and infused such as local kurobuta clubby style reflects the galleries include H Gallery. Metropolitan by COMO which shows international European bistro and for 180 days) with corn a district in the city’s This minimalist boutique and Thai art in a beautiful cocktail bar (10/15 Convent three ways and central-west dotted with hotel is home to chef David heritage building (201 Rd). Thompson’s Nahm. INSIDER DON’T MISS DAYTRIPPING TIPS Try local specialties such as khao na Take a ferry and long-tail boat to Koh Kret. But focusing on emerging Thai watching live cabaret. 399/3 galleries and speakeasies. organic but it’s chef Tim Butler’s local produce and coffee “modern. brainchild of Australian especially with solo diners. At Le Du Namsaah Bottling Trust. Light-filled Rocket serves artisanal breads. spirits at Vesper. UNCLE is a ladybrett. and breakfasts and loll about at the galleries. from small-batch roasters regional” cuisine and (149 Sathorn Soi 12. restaurants and and more feature on the original. Kathmandu speakeasy Maggie Choo’s. and jazz and blues. above Lady Brett with adobo. ceviche with yuzu granita. local produce to create W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. such as a bars. Tucked chilli jam and pork belly wall of tuk-tuk lights. whimsical touches such the hotel’s 25-metre no signage.com # WorldMags. Interiors reason enough to stay. to visit 50-year-old restaurant on Bangkok Food pagodas. responsible Expect comfort food with a house SODA feature distance of many of Silom’s art (919/1 Silom Rd).com Travel also runs tours. Silom.com). Or stay in for superb Bangkok Art Map. satin Muay Thai boxer Sathorn Rd. architecture and design it’s now within walking Burmese and Vietnamese Ashley Sutton. Moko serves Med-leaning honeydew and shiso that breakfasts set in a bright vaulted it to 37 on Asia’s 50 space decorated with Best Restaurants list. It’s the became a local favourite. (149 Sathorn Soi 12). 27 South DRINK speakeasy in the true sense. writes Lara Dunston. tavern. recently with cocktails by BANGKOK mixologist Joseph Boroski. firm AvroKO and Thai once an inconvenience.

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...... To refresh it...........127 MEASURES & EQUIPMENT * RSPCA Australia’s recommendations for killing * To sterilise jars and lids...88 drumsticks with mop sauce and toasted sourdough bread .......... peeled and quickly by cutting through the centreline of the weights.......... unless otherwise specified................90 peppers and grilled strawberries ..... mint Pancetta-wrapped barbecue and basil SG ...............101 Grilled kingfish belly........... water.................. We use female pork for preference.. stems are used..................................96 and lardo SG ........ juice..48 Lemon-oregano chicken with Poached king prawns and tomato Green papaya..... 87 Spiced quail with poppyseed sandwiches VA...........111 PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE GLUTEN-FREE ADVICE CLAIRE MURRAY Stracciatella grilled on lemon potato salad GA...... cake * All herbs are fresh............................... once process)......................88 Parmesan-crumbed chicken..... rice and dried beans work best)......... indicating that freshly ground pepper unless otherwise specified........... 47 Spit-roasted porchetta with salsa soft-serve cones VA... This splitting and spiking setting point.................. baby fennel and Jicama slaw SGVA ...... chervil and Italian slaw SV .....44 grilled finger lime SG ................... saffron Grilled summer peas............... then draw your finger through * When seasoning food to taste.............105 grilled peach salad SG .................... then drain it.... 73 Bistecca Fiorentina with Cola and lime snow Rhubarb and ginger spider SV .... run them through the COOK’S * cup and spoon measures are All level and based on Australian crustaceans humanely are to first render the animals insensible by placing them in the freezer hot rinse cycle in a dishwasher..... line a pastry-lined tart tin with 59gm unless otherwise specified.......38 Classic egg and potato salad SV .....120 SEAFOOD cones SGVA ................................. If not............... 124 Watermelon....... and both leaves and tender Remove the pan from the heat.......128 Chicken satay G . cook the spices in a dry mixture to the boil to dissolve the sugar...88 salad GA.............. 124 V VEGETARIAN pork neck with Barbecued squid with Peach frozen yoghurt and berry A CAN BE PREPARED AHEAD chrysanthemum salad A....................net . The cooking time * Acidulated water is a mixture of water and lemon varies depending on the spices used....COM. head and thorax with a knife........ it does..48 Jerk chicken legs with rice caper sauce SG.......... 53 Barbecued mussels with chorizo Grilled nectarines with coconut Fragrant chicken with sumac and toast S . 87 salad and anchovies S . cook it briefly in boiling acid in marinades reacting with metal and for another few minutes before testing again... tomato.........................44 tapioca SGV . 117 Vietnamese-style beef and salted peanut caramel SGV ..... 117 romesco sauce............ for 30 seconds................................ spoon a little tins are stainless steel......................... you’ll need a chilled saucer (place and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens................. To blind bake...........102 Poached mussels..................50 The Margarita SGVA ............................................90 Smoky chilli chicken with blood orange SG ........................... Use them in preference to the mixture – it should leave a trail............... stirring continuously over medium-high it from the heat and cool it before use.... pineapple and vanilla S SIMPLE G GLUTEN-FREE Ginger-glazed barbecued cucumber and labne ........................118 Buttermilk ice-cream with grilled Gin Old Fashioned SGVA .................... it prevents discolouration......... olive and wafers and cranberry sauce ........... destroys the nerve centres of the animal............... almonds.......... insert * To test whether marmalade.....118 icy poles SGVA............. 40 Vietnamese-style slaw with and green olive salad SA.......................................................... cook * To blanch an ingredient.....................44 Korean-style grilled chicken S . If you prefer.................... then drain it..... * Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based...101 Barbecued ocean trout with Passionfruit.... 117 Anzac and golden syrup ice-cream Young coconut-water ice with pickled carrot SA .......... 40 speck and caraway Southern barbecue chicken Wood-fired mussels.... heat until they’re fragrant.......AU WorldMags................................... dill.... rinse well.... place on a tray in NOTES metric measures........... fennel confit lemon SG .......... Bring the and the milk solids separate.............................. then fill it with weights (ceramic * Fruit and vegetables are washed........... * We recommend using free-range eggs.. chilli and green buttermilk dressing SGVA.......178 Cooler SGVA ........... a couple in the freezer before you start cooking)...................... 176 GOURMETTRAVELLER..................... unless otherwise specified.....48 Snapper ceviche.120 Coal-grilled octopus with smoked Broccoli and spring onion slaw with Grilled lamb rump with roasted butter.... 47 Cherry pie GVA............................24 MEAT AND POULTRY Sugarcane chicken with pineapple blueberries with GVA . For crabs. cook it over low heat until the fat and pork.......................... 97 Buttermilk and strawberry feta salad SGV ................... You will lose pan.128 asparagus SG .... specified.......... about 20 per cent of the volume in milk solids......102 Tahitian lime pie with passionfruit leaves SGV ...........net 127 SOUPS STARTERS SNACKS Grilled flank with tomatoes and Chermoula prawns SGV........... 95 Pappa al pomodoro SA ...................... metal bowls when marinating to prevent the the mixture has reached setting point... crustaceans must then be killed baking paper.........109 Fig and bread salad S ..38 vermicelli salad S .... 47 Escalivada with pa amb and peas A............ or wash them in hot soapy water.....128 lychee and pomelo SGVA ............ remove butter and discard the milk solids..........................112 Coorong mullet with lemon and Clubhouse sandwich S.................. 47 dandelion SG .............. 95 coconut slaw S......... tomatoes and dressing SG ...... use a sugar thermometer to plenty of iced water (this stops the cooking * Eggwash is lightly beaten egg unless otherwise measure when the mixture reaches 105C.................109 Spiced lamb with cracked wheat DESSERTS AND SWEETS sorbet VA .... used for glazing or sealing........94 Japanese cabbage salad SGVA ...... chicken * Sugar syrup is made of equal parts caster sugar * To clarify butter....108 Barbecued tenderloin with charred and coconut salad A ........ 47 AND SIDES chilli-tamarind dressing ........... unless otherwise specified...................... medium-sized unless otherwise specified...................... plunge it in imparting a metallic taste........... mixture onto the saucer and return it to the freezer COOKING TIPS * Non-reactive bowls are made from glass. jam or jelly is at * Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens a knife into the head.................105 Scallop tartare.................. 124 DRINKS verde and ciabatta A ...109 Grilled Pisco Sour SGVA................ and water.............................COM) Bife ancho with chimichurri SG...... we use sea salt and ceramic or plastic..............48 barbecued corn........................ * Eggs have an average weight of (under 4C – signs of insensibility are when the tail or outer mouth parts can be moved without * a cold oven and heat at 120C for 30 minutes........................109 (CLAIRESHOLISTICPURSUITS.....................RECIPE INDEX WorldMags..........50 layer cake VA ........ mango and tomato yoghurt and village mayonnaise S ................. resistance).......112 chicken . you can begin testing for setting point. fennel and tomàquet S ...... Strain off the clear * To dry-roast spices..........104 Char-grilled banana splits with Grilled Watermelon onion and eggplant S ..44 GUIDE TO SYMBOLS onions GA ......... crushed Tea-smoked ocean trout with Red cabbage-apple slaw with avocado and soft tacos SG.........

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place 2 halves of banana on each plate. Cool. and top with coconut chips. Add peanuts. for brushing combine.AU WorldMags. until light caramel 6 bananas. Note Coconut sugar and coconut chips are available at most health food stores and select supermarkets.net own. toasted marshmallows and extra peanuts. stir and set aside.net Sundae best Barbecues don’t have to end with the snags. drizzle with salted caramel. if you’re 50 gm coconut chips (see note) using the sauce the next day. then bring to the boil and cook. 3 To serve. coarsely chopped with coconut sugar. top with scoops of ice-cream. Throw bananas on the grill for a touch of caramelised goodness to make the ultimate banana split. 75 gm roasted salted peanuts. halved lengthways in colour (4-5 minutes). Grill cut-side down until just 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream starting to caramelise (2-3 minutes). Serves 6 swirling the pan occasionally. then halve marshmallows crossways. # BANANA SPLIT Concrete Dapple paper-backed vinyl wallpaper from Emily Ziz Style Studio. stir sugar and 60ml salted peanut caramel water in a saucepan over medium-high heat until Prep time 10 mins. coarsely Thread marshmallows on skewers and toast over chopped. The PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN STYLING GERALDINE MUÑOZ Coconut ice-cream. All other props stylist’s 178 GOURMETTRAVELLER. cook 10 mins sugar dissolves. Napkin from Koskela. Char-grilled banana splits with 1 For salted peanut caramel. to serve sauce is best used on the day it’s made.COM. then add cream (be careful. melted. Set aside. Stockists p175. you may need to RECIPE & FOOD STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD Salted peanut caramel thin it with a little hot water. Add butter. . skin on. plus extra for serving a flame until just charred (1 minute). 200 gm caster sugar 2 Brush bananas with coconut oil and scatter 60 gm salted butter. mixture 30 gm coconut sugar (see note) will spit) and 2 tsp sea salt flakes and whisk to 12 large white marshmallows combine.LAST BITE WorldMags. whisk to Coconut oil.

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