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HANDBOOK
ON
DRESS 0* CLOAK CUTTING,
BY
CHAS. HECKLINGER.
1884.
NEW YORK
PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, IOI AND
1
03
FULTON STREET.
Entered according to an Act of Congress
year iS84, by
in the
Charles Hecklinger,
in the Office of the
Librarian of Congress, at Washing
ton,
D. C.
PREFACE.
HE
following pages contain the author's Improved System of Dress and Cloak
Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who,
desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a
difficulty
— the choice of a suitable System.
given has been found to give the greatest security
it
The System
results,
in
its
with the least
trouble,
being
easy
to
learn,
readily
it.
used,
and gives the
in
greatest satisfaction to the large
number
of those using
Everything
illustrating
and explaining has been omitted which might tend
acquiring
it.
to complicate or retard the student in
Every point needed
to
make
it
clear has been carefully put
down — in
its
illustrations, in the
simple description, and
it
in
grouping the separate
articles in their cor
rect places
— making
at
once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole.
PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM.
OST
of the
that
Systems of proportion, thus
It will
far
issued,
are projected on the
breastmeasure.
human
figure,
be evident, on investigating the proportions that a System based only on one size of the body, and
immaterial which
its
width, can never lead to the best results.
the height and width are equal
it
When
But
this
is
is
we
use.
only the case on normal
sizes,
from 34 to 38 breast, as
all
devia
tions from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the
widths.
The problem
heights.
to
be solved
in
using a proportionate system
is
to arrange
it
the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use
for the
In practice
breast, require
we
find that the
average forms, measuring from 34 to 38
full
and can be cut by the
;
breastmeasure, as the lengths
agree, in the majority of cases, with this size
but
in
larger and smaller sizes this breastin
measure
will either
be too small or too large, therefore,
drafting any other sizes than
those indicated,
the
full
we must use
the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite
in
its
breastmeasure, in order that the pattern
length
may be
of correct size, and
neither too small or too large.
Table of Sizes.
Breast.
PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM. and marked
slender,
In
considering the
human body
it
must be allowed
that
sufficient
characteristics exist
between a young
girl
and the fullgrown woman
first
— the
and
the large, fleshy form.
for constructing
All these tend to establish that the
is
elements of a good System
garments
a
good proportionate standard.
this
In strict accordance with
which the
used
in
art of cutting
is
we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by thoroughly attained we also give the system as it should be
;
drafting by measure.
Table of Sizes for Children.
Age.
.
•s? sr;B;5*>; ; s
Ft?.*
THE MEASURES.
HE
measures required are
few,
and only such as give correct
results
(See Fig.
will
1).
Have
a tape which fastens around the waist in such a
at top of back, point
full
manner
I
that
it
be
level.
Measure from socket bone
O, to waist
below the tape to
B, for
the highest part of hip, and to the
length of garment wanted.
Take next
the width of back from
E
to
D, being careful to see whether the dress worn
THE WAIST PATTERN.
Should
be either too narrow or too wide modify
has this width
in the correct place.
it
your measure as seems
right.
;
Take
of tape at
the measure around the armhole
then
move
the
arm forward
to allow
you
to
put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure
J.
down
to
bottom
Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve
down to the Turn to
down
wrist.
Fig.
2,
and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the
J.
front of
arm, to bottom of tape at
in front
This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight
of arm.
front of
is
Measure next from
arm
to centre of back.
To
take this measure, a
little
square, having a tape attached,
very handy to use.
fullest
Take
the breastmeasure
over the
part of the
bosom
and shoulder blades,
then the waistmeasure, always taken close, and the hipmeasure.
These are
For a
skirt
lar take the
all
the measures required for a dresswaist, a jacket, or a long garment. the length on the side, from the hip
we take
down
to the floor.
For
a circu
width around the shoulders.
FIG. 3
AND
4.
THE WAIST PATTERN.
Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N. From O go down threefourths of an inch for the actual top of back. From O to C is onequarter of the breastmeasure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line.
Next, measure from
f,
or the top of back
down
line
to F, the length of back,
from socket
bone
to the natural waist
and from F draw a
and draw a
over to the front at T.
From F go
at the
in 1
},
inch,
line for the centre of the back,
from
f
at
top to 1£
bottom. over on the top
all
From O
and
in
line,
place 2 inches to the point
sizes,
marked
£.
This
2i
will
be
about right for
for sizes
fit
medium
width
sizes.
For large
let
it it
over 40 breast,
to V] inches.
It
under 30 breastmeasure
this
be
l.V
make it 2\ to will make no
inches
difference
the
what
may
be, as
only affects the appearance of the shoulderseam.
A
little practice,
however, will enable any one to apply the right width.
In the middle, between
O
and
E
(see Fig. 4),
fix
point B, and in the centre, between
B and
E, locate point C, and draw lines
B and
G
from both points.
is
Starting at E, measure over to S onethird of the breast, which
6 inches for a 36
;
and add
to
it
one
inch,
which
fixes
S
;
and from S
in
to
H
place onefourth, or 4^ inches.
All fractions and divisions that
we use
explanation are based on the breastmeasure, and
are found already divided on the square.
At S and
H
draw
lines up, as
shown.
Where
lines
SJ and BJ
cross,
begin by
drawing another
to the top, at A.
THE WAIST PATTERN.
Now, curve from f
to A,
and from
J to R,
A
to G,
which
last point is onehalf inch
above
J.
Commencing at
G
curve past
going a
trifle
inside of straight line, then from
R
past
X
to V.
From R draw
little
a straight line to 1^, and curve the back seam from
2.
R
by going only
a
inside of straight line at 19, thence to
Point 2
is
1J,
inches from centre 1^.
1.
From
point
2 to 1 place 1 inch,
then curve the sidebody from 19 to
Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the
D
in
front.
This should be onehalf of the breastmeasure (18).
Point
D
being
placed,
draw a
line
from there up and down to
N
and
to U, at right angles with the line
under the arm.
To
form the neck we take onesixth of the breast and place
it
from
N
to P, and, using
N
to
as a pivot,
sweep from P
to 15.
Onequarter inch inside of front
line at 15
we
start
draw the curved
front line to the bottom,
by going outside of
D
onehalf inch and com
ing back to straight line again, near U.
One and a half inches below the waistline, at U, draw a From P to B draw a straight line then take the length
;
line
from
T
over to
12.
of the back shoulder, from
A
to G,
and place the same from P towards
17,
17,
and where
line of
this reaches is point 17.
Having located
inch below
it
curve from
it
above the
shoulder at
21,
and drop onefourth
at 20
;
and, also, from 20 draw the armhole past 18 to
X
;
but do not quite
touch A, and drop below
V
onefourth inch.
10
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
Point
V
is
midway between S and
it
;
H
;
from
it
draw a
straight line to 4; curve a little
on both sides of
that
is,
starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then
gradually separate towards the waistline, so that you will have two curves, which will be
apart onefourth inch near waist, but coming together again at
4.
About onehalf
and
in
inch
more forward than the middle, between 19 and V,
1
fix
point
X
;
the centre, between
and
4,
locate 3
;
then draw a line from
12,
X
to 3
and curve
it.
In the middle,
between
H
and D, mark point
and
in
the middle, between 12 and
H, point
13.
Measure the distance from
16 inches.
front, at
U, to
1,
and from
2 to
1J
;
on
this draft
it
will
be
Now
all
deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches,
in darts.
must be taken out
of 2 inches for
We
put them
;
in
as follows
5 to 6
is
:
From U
2
is
it
to 5 place a distance
average medium sizes
7, is
from
one dart of
inches,
and between
2 inches.
the darts, from 6 to
threefourths inch, then from 7 to 8
another dart of
Take
twothirds of the distance under the
arm and place
upwards from
7
;
towards 13
then draw
for the height of the
back
dart,
and
let
9,
1,
the front one start onehalf inch lower
them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to
10, 11
and
12.
3,
Now,
12,
at onefourth inch
little
below
curve the lower line past
and a
below
trifle
above
it,
to
re
drop point 12 a
below the line; also drop 10 a
little
it;
from 9 to
T
main on the
line straight across.
is
The
draft
now
finished
by proportion, and we can assure our readers
it
that,
with the
of
use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table,
drafting remaining the
is
applicable to
all
forms, the
manner
do
same
in all cases.
All our fioures. unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams.
We
this beit
cause
it is
far easier to
add the amount necessary on
different material
than to draft
on
the pattern.
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
The measures we
waist, 15; height
shall use are the following:
10^
;
Breast, 36
;
waist, 24
6
;
;
length of natural
under arm, 7; front of arm,
on the
width of back,
front length, 18V.
In drafting this
we drop proportion altogether and use only
draft.
the measures as stated
above
to get all points
All the lines
and curves
line
will
come out
and
in similar
;
manner
from
to the previous draft.
Fig. 4 starts
by drawing a
OF
ON
go down

O
threefourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, arid curve from

to A.
From
down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a
1i
line
over to
the front and go in
mark a point. From f to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back. Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw
inches and
a line to
the front.
From Z
arm,
10i
to
D
is
onehalf of the breastmeasure, and draw the front line up and down.
S,
Also measure from Z to
the actual width of
the.
back, and from Z to H.the front of the
inches, or the blade
measure which
is
taken from the front of the arm over the
lines up.
blade to the centre of the back.
At S and
H
draw
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
In the middle
11
between
O
and
E mark
J,
point B, and
in
the middle between
B and E
point C, and draw the lines across as shown.
(See Fig.
4.)
From where
the lines cross at
is
draw one across
J.
to top of
back at A, and curve from
A
to
G
which point
at
onehalf inch above
J,
Beginning
thence to V.
G
curve armhole past
last is
a trifle inside of line
between
J
and R, and from
can be
This
midway between S and H.
is
Make
the bottom of the back 1^ inches wide. This
only a medium, as
it
made
1
inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam' either further back or
Then from R draw
Between 19 and
2
a straight line to 1^ and slightly curve a line
more drawn to
to the front.
19 and to
2.
curve more towards centre of back.
A
few
trials will
enable you to
make
a nice shaped curve.
From From
2
on back to side body
at
1
is 1
inch,
and curve from 19
trifle
to
1.
it,
V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a
on either side of
also
dis
separate sidebody from
X
to
3.
Point
X
is
midway between
line
R
and
V
and the
tance between 3 and 4
is
about ^ inch more than
X
to V.
12
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
Take i
as a pivot
of the breast, equal to 3 inches,
to 15.
and place
it
from point
N
to
P and use point
N
and sweep from P
At
a point on waistline directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front
is in
length, which
our measure 18A, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever
P.
it
reaches to
line;
is
point
This may, sometimes, when the person
it.
is
erect, reach
it
above the
is
and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below
it
Wherever
reaches
the
shoulder point, and when
for neck,
will
goes above we sweep at a point above
it
N
even with shoulder
and of course, should
its
be below the
line, at
a point below N, so that the
neck
keep
shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.
is
Wherever point P
to
located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw
the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from
A
G
on
this line
from P to get point
17.
Then from
17 curve above
it
about onequarter
inch to P, and also draw the armhole, going inside of line H, but never over onehalf inch,
to V, as
shown on the diagram.
front,
Drop
a trifle from 17 to 20.
At the
draw the
till
line starting inside of straight line of 15 onequarter of an inch,
gradually curving out
at
D we
to
have onehalf inch curve, and thence going
in
again
to
the line at waist, point U.
From U go down
1\ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.
1
Measure the distance F
case will be 16 inches.
U, leaving out the opening between
and
2,
which
in
this
Now, onehalf
in darts.
in
of waistmeasure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches,
which must be taken out
To produce
middle between
the darts
the right place
12,
we proceed
in
as follows
:
first
locate a point in the
H
and
D
which gives
and
the centre between
H
and
12,
another
which
is
marked
13.
From U
to 5 place 2 inches, as
we never wish
amount
7
to
have the
is
first
dart any nearer to the
2
front,
then from 5 to 6
one dart of
inches or onehalf of
the
to be taken out.
Between the darts leave
threefourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches
from
to
8.
In the centre of each dart
13.
mark
a point and
draw
lines
from these to 12 and
Onethird of the height under arm from 13 locates 23
while 22
is
onehalf inch lower, and starting from each of
the last points curve the darts as shown.
It will
be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top,
waistline they run
and that below the
straight
down
it
with
out any spring being given.
From
a trifle
line.
1
curve to 3 and 4
waistline,
is
;
but between 3 and 4
to 12
runs
above
Point 10
and then from 4
lower than the
on lower
it
a
little
line,
while
rests
on
line,
from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to
add that
this,
as well as the preceding, requires the adding
of seams according to material used.
LARGE
SIZE WAIST.
13
FIG.
In using this
5.
LARGE
will
SIZE WAIST.
as explained in another article, the
by measure,
draft in the
same way
be larger.
difference being only that the
measure
We
will explain this
by the Proporto a breast
tionate
Method:
Breast, 44 inches; waist,
3U
;
drafting size, 21, or equal
measure of 43^ inches.
It
should be understood that this
last size of
breast
is
used only
for the height, while
the original breastmeasure must always be used for the width.
First
draw
line
OC, mark point O, and draw
a line at right angles with
OC,
to
A;
F
14
LARGE
SIZE WAIST.
22 inches;
and
at
is
this point
draw a
line
2
up and down, thus making the front
inches.
line
AJ.
From
at
O
to 6
oneeighth of breast,
From
7
curve to
6,
for the top of back,
it
neck; from
K
to 6
draw
to
8.
a line,
and
at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising
8,
onehalf inch above
K
Also commence to curve the armhole from
4 to E.
going inside of
line oneeighth inch at 16,
and thence past 15 and
Midway between
past 17 to
1
;
K
and
G
is
point
16.
Start to
make
it
the seam for the back from 16,
is
the last point
is
H
inch from
H.
When
desired to produce a narrow
8 fully 1 inch,
shoulder, raise the
seam above
16.
8 onehalf inch,
and back from
and draw the
from 16 to 17
armhole from 18 to
To draw
the
first
sidebody, place
2.
1
inch from
1
to
2,
and curve the
line
;
thence separate and curve nicely to
In the centre,
will
between
G
and E, mark point
4,
and draw
a line straight
down, which
be
5
;
and, in the middle, between 17 and
fix
4, fix 3,
point 15. Also take the distance from 2
a line from 15 to 3
;
to
5,
and
a point in the centre, which will be
lines, as
and then draw
curve
a
little
on each, side of these two
shown.
:
In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given
From
A
to
F
is
onesixth of the breastmeasure,
3.V
inches
;
and the same amount from
A
a
to
I
;
now, sweep from
F
to
I,
using
A
as pivot; from
F
to
to
8,
D
draw
a straight line,
to
!»,
and place the
it
same
distance, as on the back shoulder from
line at 20; finish the
it
on to F
it
and then curve
little
above the
armhole by curving
from 19 downwards past E.
It will
be seen that
runs over and
in front of line E,
and onefourth inch below breastline
I,
at 4.
For the
front edge,
commence
onefourth inch inside of straight line at
in
and go
gradually out to onehalf inch at H, and
again until
it
touches line at
3,
J
and
14.
;
Now
give
to
manage
to fix the darts:
is
Measure from
only
1
li to 12, to
and
3 to J
this will
lUi inches.
But as the measure
in darts.
5 J,
onehalf of 31i,
2J
between these two widths
darts of
1
This amounts to
we take out the difference inches, which we take out in two
inch each.
First find the centre
between
H
P.
and E, which
This
first
fixes point
R
1
;
and the centre,
inches from
also, be
tween
put
in
R
and E, which gives point
1
dart
commences 2J
be
J.
Then
one dart of
1 inch.
Between the
is
darts, let the space
inch,
and then place the
width of the other dart, which
also 1^ inch,
and
fix
a centre in each dart.
dart,
From R draw
a line through the centre of the
first
and from P one through the
centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram.
darts are started twothirds of the distance
up under the arm, but the front one
is
The made
onehalf inch shorter.
From
and draw
raising to
J
go down
1
?,
inch and
is
draw a
line across to 10.
The bottom
3,
of the waist
straight from 14 to 13.
10, also
to the line at 11.
From
At 12 begin onefourth inch below onefourth inch below, draw a curved line to 5,
becomes necessary,
and back
to
2.
When
the back has been narrowed on the shoulders
to
it
;
it
also, to
conform the front
as
we have
raised above 8
to
18 onehalf inch, therefore,
we
LOW NECK DRESS
must reduce the shoulder on the
front the
it
WAIST.
15
same amount we added, and
it
will
bring
it
to 19.
in
Then
the waist
is
finished.
Let
again be stated that seams must be added, except
the neck and armhole.
FIG.
It will
6.
LOW NECK
DRESS WAIST.
is
be seen that the general arrangement of this draft
the
same
as
all
produced
by
this
System.
pointed basquelike shape at bottom
is
The
will
made
to
whatever length desired, only,
it
be noticed, they are made short on the side just over the hips.
In
making these waists low
in
the neck, the
first
point to be considered
to draft
is
that they
reach
down lower on
the shoulders, and, therefore,
we have
them so
as to
meet
this requirement.
From S.the
from these two
original
shaped
;
draft,
ing to the lowness of opening
last points.
it
the
we go out to 10, on line D10, 1 to H inch, same is added from O to R, and the armhole
accord
drafted
Now, decide how low
should be open, and draw the curved lines from
T
to Q,
and
.
—
16
BASQUE PATTERN.
from B to
is
9.
The
strap on shoulder can be
made
1
or 2 inches wide.
If a
short sleeve
wanted
flatten the sleevehead
10.
about the same amount as was added to the shoulder
over S to
FIG.
7.
BASQUE PATTERN.
it
This figure represents a short pointed basque as
can be produced by this System
fully
whether by proportion or by measure.
We
have already
explained the manner of
2>///e
C
'
producing
all
the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and
it
it is
not necessary to
go over
it
here again,
the waist
being the same as any other waist.
place whatever length
is
From
down we
wanted
in
the back to get point
J,
BASQUE PATTERN.
17
or line B.
From
is
1
and
1J
lines are
drawn down,
and whatever
put on from S to back line must
28.
be also added from line at 30 to
On
a short basque the back line does not
J, it
touch point
having
less spring,
is
and therefore
the width of back, at S,
at the waist, or
only a
little
more than
about onehalf inch on each side
of the straight lines.
From
J to
28 curve up, to taste.
If
wanted
it
with a high curve at side, over the hips,
reach above 28
;
may
and when desired straight around
it
the bottom draw
to a jacket, as
along bottom
line,
or similar
shown on other Figures.
must
start
at S,
The
sidebody at bottom
level with 28, rising
up towards R.
it
O
is
even with R, and from
to
O
draw the
line a little lower.
Point P
it is
is
also level with
O
;
thence, forward,
is
drawn so that the
front point
either level
with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the
Figure, where
it is
two inches lower.
The
The
best
darts are placed the
line
same
as
on a waist.
But below the waist
F
they curve, as shown.
is
way
to
produce a good result
11, 12, 13
to
draw
draw
straight lines
down from
that
and
14,
ing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown.
It will
thus be seen
23 comes nearly
in
the
is
centre of the second dart, because more curve
here needed for the hips, while the space between
the darts
is
drawn so that the distance between 21
little
and 25
this
is
only a
more than
at
12 to
13.
In
will
way, when the darts are sewn up they
take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centrepiece between the darts.
When
down and
dividing the sidebody, from 18 to 19, directly under the
let
arm draw
a straight line
the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O.
Also take out
about onefourth inch above the waistline along the sidebody seams, to curve them more
to the shape.
From
this line,
It will
15 to 20
a straight line
is
also drawn,
and an equal amount
middle, between line
18 and line
is
is
put each side of
over the hips, to
R
and O.
is
be noticed that point 18
15
is
;
in
the
E and
;
the line K,
or point S on Fig. 4; and point
sidebody, at the waist,
is
midway between
the line from 18
K
the width of the
made wider
always drawn straight down,
POLONAISE.
SLEEVE.
19
then divide the distance from point 19 and
2,
the centre of which
is
20; and from 15
through 20 draw the other
line.
FIG.
This
is
8.
POLONAISE.
as the one given in Fig.
7.
drafted in the
same manner
As, however, this
is
a
long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line
spring out
at 6,
till
D
we
;
at
bottom, point F,
;
it
amounts
to
one
inch.
At
4 there
is
one inch over
line
on sidebody, one inch
there draw a
it.
straight line from 4 down, through this inch,
7,
is
1J
and
curve the onehalf inch over
On
the side, from 5 to
inches, the
same
1
at bottom.
3,
Where
and point
3,
3
and X, of
forepart, are located lay the sidebody
on top of
it,
resting on
of sidebody, resting on X,
fix
then finish the line
from
Put
X
to 14,
by the way the
sidebody lays, and
the length also by the sidebody.
line.
in
two
darts, letting
them
run only 4 inches below the hip
FIGS. 9
AND
10.
THE SLEEVE.
lines
Commence by drawing
OE
;
and OF.
Use the armhole size to produce the sleeve, and go down from O to B onefourth of this A is in the
middle between
O
to
and
B.
Draw
lines across.
From O From B
which
from
will
there draw a line
to
F is onehalf down to K.
of armhole,
and from
F draw
a straight line
and halve
it,
be point
H
;
and from
this last also
draw
a short line at right angles with the diagonal line
H
to
J.
Measure the length of
third of
it
line
BF and
to
J.
take one
and place
J
it
from
H
Now, using
point
4,
as pivot,
sweep from
line at top,
;
around to the front and the back
from B
curve line past 5 to this sweep.
crosses line at
G
draw a
line
Where down to K.
the sweep
Go down
Mark
from B to
C
threefourths of an
inch,
and from here measure the length of arm to E.
a point
midway between B and E, which
between the two
parallel lines at
gives D, and draw a line across.
In the middle,
back,
mark
a point f.
Now
arm
will
lay the square in such a position on the
pattern that 5 inches will touch point
E and the
long
touch/, then draw along the bottom, from
E
to N,
and to/.
20
SLEEVE.
Begin
to N.
to curve
from C, past
L
to f,
and curve
Go
in
from
D
1
J
inch and
draw the frontseam of
the sleeve.
From X, where
the curve strikes line B, begin to
parallel with
draw the undersleeve
upper part
6 to
1.
Measure from B around the sleevehead to C, and apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure
past
I
towards
3,
the measure of armhole, and 2 inches
more.
If the uppersleeve
measures 11 inches place
adding
2 inches 3
is
11
on
to
X
and measure 16
inches,
more
to
line at 3 for a 16sleeve.
Wherever point
2,
located
begin to draw back armseam to bottom by running
straight down, curving out to
line 7 as
or as
much
inside of
f
is
outside of
it.
FIG.
10.
Draw the line OG and OF. From O to C go down onethird, less onehalf inch, and draw line over In the middle, between C and O, draw also a to K.
line
from B to H.
From
draw
O
to
G G
is
one
half of armhole size, and
a line from
down
u
li#(npillWWli
wards.
From C
sleeve.
begin to curve the sleevetop past
I.
I
to
H, touch
ing the top line at
From L
to
E
apply the length of
E.
Make F From E to N
1
\ inches
is
lower down than
an average of 5 inches.
Draw
a line
from
H
past
K
in
to
M
and N, curving
line
it
inside of
tritle
K
about
onehalf inch
elbow.
and curve the
from
only a
below the
Go
D
1
\
inch,
and draw the inside seam
from C to E.
This finishes the uppersleeve.
For
the
undersleeve
J.
draw from C, curving under
Point
J
straight line to L, thence to
is 1
inch inside of H.
From
J
draw down
to within
onehalf inch of
M
and to N.
is
The
to
frontseam
N.
the same as the uppersleeve from
C
E and
In drawing
any sleeve use the measure of the armhole,
this
and bear
in
mind that
manner
of drafting; has the seams
already included.
SKIRTS.
21
FIG. 11.
Cutting and making a dress
very
little
SKIRTS.
is
skirt, of
any style and kind,
the
fit
sometimes considered of
importance.
By many dressmakers
work
is
entrusted to inexperienced
hands and blocked out by a pattern which
style
will not
the form.
Many
fine
costumes lack
because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed.
The
as
fashion for the present, and for
some time
past, requires the skirt to
be
fitted
with
fall
much
care as any other part of the dress.
All fullness must be so arranged as to
a
into the
back breadths of the
train.
The
sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so
as to eive a straight even effect across the front
and sides and allow the
train to
suddenly
spring out at the lower part of the back widths.
The
sweep.
careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to
fall
into a fanlike
The
is
necessity of fine •slopes,
and a difference of those
in
different costumes, as
for
well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated
when we observe the use
which
the dress
intended.
—
2 '2
SKIRTS.
In
a walking dress, as
it
should be to be
in
harmony with
all
style
and the present
sides, leaving
demands' of fashion, the
skirts should
at
adhere closely
the back.
size
around the front and
this,
whatever fullness there may be
In order to gain
darts are required
to the size at waist.
that,
between the breadths, which reduce the
needed over the hips down
it
As
in
the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides
must be evident
order that the skirt
may
fall
down
fairly
over the hips, these darts at side must be
larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller.
The bottom should have
laying the gores
in a
a regular sweep.
This sweep can be gained the easiest by
closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre
of the front and extending
upwards about the same length as the
is
skirt.
At the centre of
In this shape
the back breadth another line
drawn
;
far
enough up
to cross the first line.
the two lines would represent a cone
table,
at the point attach a string to a pin
driven into the
and extending
front width
this string to the
effect in
lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom
this will
produce a correct
is
every case.
The
at
fittincr
now
cut wide
enough so
that only one additional width
is
needed
each side.
As we have
already said,
much depends upon goring
the sides as regards
the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient
to
cover the round form of the body.
The
defect liable to occur in this point has the
same
on
result as not sloping
enough
at the side for large hips,
namely, the skirt
will hitchup
the waistband.
Putting on a skirt to the band
is
of equal importance.
in
A
dart in the apron or front
width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body
All the rest of the
fullness should
front; so also do darts at side.
left
be pleated or gathered into the few inches
of the
band
after the front
and sides have been sewed to the band.
skirt,
We
should not advise any one to cut out a
whether short or with
train,
with
out a good pattern, unless they understand
the different shapes in gores.
how
to
draft
one and know the points of
Such
skirt patterns
we
are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in
order that students
may
acquire an idea of
how
to cut them, Fig. 11 will
show
the general
form and shape of them.
Draw
to line A.
line A,
and make
it 45
inches long, and
mark
off all the distances
;
on the
line, as
shown by the number of inches given
at all these points
draw
lines across at right angles
Draw
a line from
point 6 to 12 and curve
it
to within onehalf inch of
6,
and then
curve slightly onehalf inch below line at centre to
6
on
line A.
This finishes top of front
breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom.
Finish the top of sidebreadth by drawing lines from
like
7
to
11,
curving these lines
Figure
;
at the
bottom, curve from 12 to
42, also
42.
12,
Connect points 32 and
part
;
22 and
by straight
lines,
which
finishes the
back
this will give a skirt 38 inches
long and the prevailing width.
Lay the
In
front part, line A,
to
on the fold of the goods.
left
sewing
in
the band the front and sidebreadths are
plain while the back
is
pleated
three or four large pleats.
SACK JACKET.
23
FIGS. 12, 13, 14.
It will
SACK JACKET.
in
be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted
the same
manner
as the principle
first
employed
to
in the
construction of the waistbody or basque.
line
We
commence
draw the back
B and
O
to
F
(Fig. 12).
ZrneC.
1
—0
3~~
'/first line,
From
O
down, on the
place threefourths of an inch, and from
size.
O
over to F,
oneeighth of the breastmeasure, or simply 2 inches, on average
Starting at
3,
measure down
to C, the length of natural waist,
and
to D, the full parts
of the hips; also to
E
the length wanted.
24
SACK JACKET.
From C up
draw
to
B
to
place the height under the arm.
Now
from
at
every one of these points
lines across, all at right angles with the first line.
Go
last
in
from
C
N
1J
inch,
and then draw a
line
f,
,
at top, to N,
and from the
point to E, and curve the backline, as
shown from
past R.
From N
to
M
make
the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.
Starting at R, place the width of back to
In the middle,
G
and draw a
line
up to
S.
between
O
and
B, fix point A,
and from there draw a
line
over to
J.
From
the point where lines
J
AJ and GS
cross
draw a
line to F.
Raise above
onehalf inch to S and curve the shoulder from
F
to
S
;
then from S
is
go inside of
between
J
line at J
and curve the armhole of the back
to
I.
This
last
point
midway
and G.
I
From
draw a
line to
N, then
trifle
commence
at
I
and draw
line for the
sideseam to
8,
going inside of straight line a
and thence with a decided curve
to
M.
2
;
Draw
a rightangle line with the waistline
F down
3
2 to
5.
to 3
from N, and to 4 from
4 to
5,
Now
whatever the distance
E
is
drawn from
line
must be placed from
and the
back may be finished by drawing the
In case
it is
from
desired to
make
4.
a narrow back, point
E may be
nearer to 3
;
in
such case
point 5 would also be nearer to
Cut the back
out,
and
in
order to draw
to cut
the sidebody lay
it
it
on the papsr
in
such a
manner
that there will be
room enough
out without piecing.
THE SIDEBODY.— FIG.
Lines
13.
DF
to 10
and
I,
O
are extended over.
8,
From
2 to 10 is 1 inch in
every case.
Draw from
and curve
from
2
along the back, to
to
6,
and from thence begin
to separate
from the back
and down
cross.
it
which
is
the point on the back where line
O
and the
line
downwards
much nor making From B to K
Curve from
I
too
From 6 down give this line a nice fiat — a medium is what is desired.
and K.
curve, not springing out too
is
onefourth of the breastmeasure.
to
H
About
as
1
inch inside of
8 to
K
draw a
line
down
to
L,
which should make the sidebody
wide from
H
as 10 to L.
At
right angles with waistline
draw one down from 10
from 3 to
5
to
3.
and another from L
6,
to
4.
Now
whatever the distance
is
is
6.
should be placed from 4 to
and then the
seam from L
drawn past
be a
11 to
Make
from
is
the length at bottom onehalf inch longer at 5 to
;
also notice that the distance
hip, at side,
7 to 11
may
little
more than
that from 9 to
6,
as
more ease over the
desirable.
THE FRONT.— FIG.
All the lines are extended over on the paper,
14.
and the sidebody and back are
laid in
the position as
First
when they were drafted, and as shown. measure from B to V, onehalf the breastmeasure, and draw
line
A
up and down.
SACK JACKET.
L'O
From B
to
R
is
the measure to the front of the arm, where a line
to N, here
is
drawn
up.
From
width
P back, place onesixth of the breast
draw a
line
up and down,
as shown.
less the
Measure up from
star
on
side,
marked
Z, to line at
N, the front length
S
^—P
of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line
fix
the height.
From this height draw a line to A, which gives From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck.
the height of shoulder.
Place the length of back shoulder from
r
\
F
to
S on
to N,
on
line
N, and where
it
reaches will be point 22.
26
DOUBLEBREASTED SACK JACKET.
Drop
line, to
onehalf inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which
is
onefourth above the
N.
Also curve armhole from 22 through
R
to
H.
Draw
the front line onehalf inch inside at 21, curving outside onehalf inch near V,
coining back to line at U, and outside onehalf inch at bottom to point 20.
From H, through
L, through 12, to 13.
this
L,
draw
line to 11.
Whatever the distance from
11 to 24
is
place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from
1
Sweep
the bottom from 13 by a point
inch back of
N
and
flatten
curve near 14.
Midway between R and V
Deduct the half
fix
point
2,
and midway between
2
and
R
point
1.
Measure the distance from the
size of waist
front at
U
to 10
and from
2 to C.
is
from
this last
and the remainder
out
taken out
in darts.
From U to 12 is 2 inches. From 12 to 9 is onehalf of what is to be taken From to 8 is always threefourths of an inch. From 8 to 7 is another dart.
Fix a point
in
in darts.
the centre of the darts and
draw a
straight line from
1
and
to
2 to 6
and
5
;
and
at right
angles with waistline draw lines from centre
fix
of dart
down
the
bottom.
Now, onethird of the height under arm, down,
point
3,
and make
4 onehalf inch more.
Draw
the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.
FIG. 15.
DOUBLEBREASTED SACK JACKET.
Draft by measure
— breast,
36
;
waist, 24
;
and
hip, 40.
Length
to
waist
14^,
and
full
length, 26.
will
By using these measures we
ping of patterns as
occurs
endeavor to show how to draft
a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing
it
away with the
overlap
when
it
is
drafted altogether, as in our
It is
previous articles on proportionate cutting.
the same principle,
in
but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole
the skirt.
Commence by drawing
and
the back construction line from
O
to
L
O
to P.
From O down is threefourths inch to T. From O to E is onefourth of breast 9 inches. From T measure down to the waist 14 ^ inches, and
—
the
full
plength to L, 26 inches, and from
O
over on top line to 5 two inches,
and curve the
top, T, to 5.
B
is is
midway between
6 inches
in
O
and E.
;
K
from
below the waist
now draw
all
the lines across.
At F go
1^ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back,
at
9,
T
to
H, and spring out threefourths inch
to 7
is
thence to L.
From E
3,
onethird and one inch, equal to 7 inches.
3.
Draw
a line up from 7 to
and one from
5 to
DOUBLEBREASTED SACK JACKET.
27
Raise above 3 onehalf inch to
the curved line from
4
4,
then curve the shoulderseam of the back
;
form also
to
6.
Point 6
is
midway between
a straight line
3
and
7.
Make
2
the width of the back at waist 2 inches,
and from
2
draw
down
to the bottom.
Now
curve the side seam from 6 past
to 10 at bottom,
which point
is
threefourths
of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect
L and
10 by a line.
THE
Cut out the back and lay
on the same
line
it
SIDEBODY.
in
on the paper
the
such a manner that the breastline
that there will be sufficient
will lay
further towards
front, so
room
at the
28
DOUBLEBREASTED SACK JACKET.
bottom
6 to 2
;
to draft out the sidebody whole.
Now,
first
draw along the edge of the back from
to 13.
;
go
13
in at 2
one
inch,
and curve from the blade down
At
to 20,
draw
a straight line
down, and curve out from 13 to 18
as point 10 of the back.
this last will
it
be exactly
underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw
with a slight curve
which
is
the
same length
is 2
From
14 to 13
inches,
and make the distance from
to the bottom.
11 to 12 the
same; now draw
a straight line from 12 to 11,
and down
Go
over
1i
out from 15 to 10 one inch, and curve seam from 11 to
inch outside of straight line.
10,
which should not be
Draw
line
from 20 to
19.
THE FRONT.
Lay the sidebody on
breastline
and back
in
position against sidebody, so that the
I
breastline of each lays correct
./"'?*'
and
straight, then
measure from
on centre of the back
to
the centre of the front
at this last point
line.
D, halfbreast, or 18 inches;
line
draw
a
up and down
for front
Point 12 of the sidebody will
point 21 of the front; draw
slight curve to
line
now be
also
the same as
down
;
to 27 a line with a
shape
in
at waist
draw a straight
the
down from 27 to 35 at bottom. From P to C is onesixth, or 3 inches, and same to 23, now sweep the neck from P. From C, which is onehalt inch above the top
for erect or ordinary builds,
line
on the line draw one to B
on the back.
Now
curve a
measure the length of shoulder on the back
4,
from 5 to
and place the same from C
above
it,
to 22,
and
little
as
shown
in
Fig. 15.
is
From
G
on sidebody forward
4^
to front of
is
arm
onefourth, or
inches,
where a
line
drawn from
21.
H
;
then finish
armhole from 22 to
H
and
Finish the sideseam by going out at 31
33,
1
inch to
and curve seam
to 34
;
also locate the length
12,
by
laying the sidebody, point
on
21,
and where 19 and
comes
is
34.
From
C,
by
34,
sweep the bottom of
in
front
straighten this
some
the centre.
At the centre of
S,
breastline,
beyond D, put onehalf
and thence
of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at
where
it
comes back
at 30,
to the straight line,
it is
to the
it.
bottom
where
onehalf inch outside of
lap
2.V
For a doublebreasted jacket make the
inches
SACK JACKET.
29
at breast, 2
at waist,
1J,
and 2£
at bottom.
Whatever the
size
of the draft at waist, from
in darts.
points S to
on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out
In this Figure
we take out one
dart only, starting in the centre,
26, the full
J,
which
is
between
H
and D, and take out between points 25 and
below the
amount which
25,
will
be about 2^
or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, twothirds
hipline.
above
and finishing about 4 inches
In case
two darts are preferred they are put
in as
already shown in previous Figures.
FIG. 16.
SACK JACKET.
in
This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with
an extra piece under the arm and only one dart
front.
the
The
correctness of the lines, and the simplicity
of the process, will be of
This method
is
the
much benefit to our students. same as we have given in several
it is
different styles,
and therefore
drafted in a similar
to draft all
manner.
It
requires
only one
method
in
kinds of garments, and our aim
giving the different
its
shapes
is
to familiarize our readers with
application
to a variety of shapes
and
styles, so that
whatever gar
ment they may be
to
called
to
cut
they will be able
do
it.
Let us take a size
— 36
breast,
24
waist, with
a
length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching
down from
neck
15.V inches.
first
In drafting,
draw the
line
OF.
From O go down
the back.
threefourths inch for the top of
From
waist,
1
the top of the back to
i
D
is
the length to the
to the
5
inches; from the
same point down
to F.
inch.
bottom of the garment measure 30 inches
At
D
go
in to
point 14
ll
Then from
the top
of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw
one from 14
to F, curve
slightly over the line
below
14, past 20, to F.
Make
it
the width from 14 to 2 two
inches,
2 to 29,
and run a
line parallel
with
backdine from
and curve
a
trifle,
as
shown on the Figure.
From O go down
which
from
is
to
C
onequarter of the breast,
line across.
9 inches,
and draw a
Draw
a point
a line
O
over to
K
at right angles with the backline.
In the middle, between
O
and C,
fix
1
marked B and draw
7
a line over to N.
a line at right
From C
to
G
is
onethird breast and
inch, equal to
inches,
and draw
30
SACK JACKET.
angles with line CG.
From
G
to
H
is
onefourth breast, equal to \\ inches, there draw
a line at right angles with the
one under arm.
J,
From
and
S.
1,
centre of back, to
at the front of the breast, place onehalf of the breastJ
measure, equal to 18 inches, and at
draw a right angle
line
up and down
like line
KJ
it
From O to 13 is 2 inches. From N to 13 draw a line, and
then,
commencing
at 13,
curve the shoulder, letting
rise
above the
last line onehalf inch to 14.
Starting threefourths inch
17
inside of line
G
fix
begin to curve the armhole past 12 to
the point to start seams from for the
and H.
In the middle, between
N
and G,
29
2
back.
Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and To draw the first sidebody place from
Below
till
— this makes the back with narrow shoulders.
to 3
one
inch,
curve the line from 19 to
3,
gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to
get a neat curve.
3
curve toward the back
till
at hip, 21,
it
will
meet the back, and
thence downwards,
at the
bottom
it
will overlap the
back
1
inch to 30.
Make
it
the width of sidebody at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and
at waist, or
make
the
same
from 3 to
4,
3 inches.
Then curve from
17 to
4.
Lay
a long straightedge, closing at 17, and threefourths inch from point 4; while in
this position
mark a
line
along
it
from the hipline downward, and connect
it
by a curve
from 4 to 24.
Go
in
from 4 to 5 a distance of threefourths inch, and curve from 17 to
5,
but be
careful to
commence
to separate sidebody only \\ inch
below
17.
Lay
a straightedge, as
and threefourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.
before, at 17,
From
17 to 18
may be
only \\ or
2
inches, according to the
size— 2 inches
to the form.
it
will
be
sufficient for a 36 breast.
Draw
hips
a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape
it
Again,
lay a straightedge against 18,
and threefourths inch from
6,
and mark along
from the
downward; curve from
6 to hip.
7,
Commencing
edge against
18,
at 18, curve the front to
taking out onehalf inch, then lay a straight7
and threefourths inch from
the front, place from
16.
mark along
it
below the hips and
finish the
curve from 7 to 25.
To produce
same from
curve
to
K
to
P onesixth of
breast, equal to 3 inches, also the
K
to
From P
and
to
back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to
it
B draw a line, then P to produce point
drop
it
place the
15,
same distance
as on the
or the length of front shoulder,
above
this line,
at 15
onehalf inch below.
At
15 curve the armhole
H, going outside of the
line
enough
to give the
arm hole
a
good shape, but under no
onehalf inch, and
S.
consideration go beyond point
H — rather
go
inside.
Curve the
frontline onefourth inch
inside
of 16, and outside at
J
coming back
to R,
where
it
should spring out to the bottom onehalf inch at
1
Add beyond
last
curve
to
2,
inch for the lap, on a singlebreasted jacket,
6,
all
the
way down.
in a dart,
Measure from 14
3 to 4, 5 to
and
7 to
R, which will be about 15 inches; but as take out the difference
the waist must be 12 inches, or onehalf of 24,
we must
SACK JACKET.
31
which
is
3 inches.
Divide the space between
H
2
and
J
which gives point
17.
8,
I,
and from
this
draw a
straight line down.
Go down
the bottom
from
I
inches to
On
each side of the line at 9
;
place onehalf of the dart, 1 inch, then curve from 17 to
27 and 35
also from the
same
point to 10, 28 and 36.
At
it
should be threefourths inch.
The bottom
of the
first
sidebody must be onehalf inch longer than the back
first
;
;
the
second the same length as the
second, and curve forward
1
and the front must
start
at the
same length
as the
inch below line 33 to 37.
32
SHORT JACKET.
FIG. 17.
SHORT JACKET.
As regards the
darts
all
This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape.
are the
points
same
as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in
two sidebodies we only
cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required
make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket. The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of armhole will go
to
with
this.
—
JERSEY BLOUSE.
33
FIG. 18.
Draw
centre,
line
JERSEY BLOUSE.
O
to
OJ and OF.
From
D
is
onefourth of breast.
From O
to 20
in
is
threefourths inch.
From O
is
to
D
take onehalf the distance to get point B, and
the
between B and D,
point C.
From
20 to
E
is
length of back and to
F
the
full
length.
J
Go
2
6
17,
in
from
E
1i
inch and draw the backline from 20 to
2.
and
to F.
inches for top of back to
From
D
is
onethird of breast and
1
1
it
inch to G.
at
1.
From O is Draw a line
up from
G
to
6.
From
6
draw one
1
to 2
and curve
10.
inch above
Curve armhole from
\\ inches on a 36 breast.
through
9 to
Draw
a line up.
From G to H From back, near D,
is
onefourth of breast
to
K
is
onehalf of breast.
—
;:i
GIRLS SACK.
Draw line up and down. From J back to is onesixth of breast, and the same down to 3. From to 6 draw a line, Curve above line at 18 onehalf inch for front shoulder,
I I
and curve the armhole from 18 to
17,
and
H
to 10,
l. ,,
1
Point 10
',M,
is
about
1L
inch from G.
Make
at bottom.
the width of back
53,
inches from
and
J,
inches to point 10, and 10 inches
Then curve
16
4.',
the sideseam at 10 to 5
and U.
From
N, at front of the waist,
go
in 3 inches, to
inches,
and
to 4 6 inches.
16,
Draw
3
a straight line up and
down through
and form the
dart,
from
20,
through
and
4,
to 5
and
6.
Lay
the back on the front to meet at 10, 5
L
on V,
8
on U, to get the right curve
for
the side seam.
Measure the waist and make the distance
pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.
at
V
to
correspond with
it.
Using
I
as
Add
onehalf inch buttonstand, and
1
1
inch on
the side the buttons are sewed on.
Buttons should be
inch apart.
The Jersey
is
finished with standing collar.
is
This pattern
intended only for goods which are elastic
the dart and at side should be stretched
closer to the form.
like stockinet or tweed.
The seams
in
fit
somewhat
in
pressing, thus
allowing them to
FIG. 19.
This
is
GIRL'S SACK.
a
a sack
for
young
girl
of
size
31
breast,
closefilting.
The
figure illustrates a very jaunty
and comfortable
jacket.
For the
Fall
Season
it
should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of
is
a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish
obtained by binding
it
with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid.
It
has
eight
buttons
lapel,
in
front,
is
it
cut
singlebreasted, with a very
small turnover
neck.
which allows
to be buttoned
up close
to
the
A
on
it.
side
edge
is
imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put
The
fullsize
pattern
may be
cut by following the Figure, as repreout.
sented, using inches for every
number marked
^00
may
not
In order that this
may
be readily understood we will go over this
manner
of doing
it
again, so that our readers
who
desire to take
them
off
make any
draw a
mistakes.
First
at the top.
line
on the edge of paper, and draw out the back
first,
by fixing a point
O
marked
is
the starting point.
13,
From O go down
in
inches as indicated by the points
f, 2f, 5f,
20 and 34.
Draw
lines across
from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these
GIRLS SACK.
35
lines.
When
all
these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the
outlines of the back.
For the sidebody use the same process and you
will
have the
all
full
size.
It
can be
made doublebreasted by adding
1
J,
inch in front of the breast
the
way down.
86
l'.RAIDED
IACKET.
DOUBI.EBREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.
37
C
38
BRAIDED JACKET
DOUBLEBREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET
— LADY's
JACKET.
FIG. 20.
BRAIDED JACKET.
This Figure represents a fashionable style of closefitting jackets for Spring wear.
They
are
made
singlebreasted,
having the buttons close together, and have the ap
The same may be made doublebreasted by the addition of 2 inches In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a to the front. round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding. The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 3(3 breast, 25 waist the length may be regupearance of a Jersey.
;
lated to taste.
In drafting this pattern use inches for
all
the figures on the draft.
FIG. 21.
DOUBLEBREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.
The
is
This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket.
front
is
doublebreasted towards
is
the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button
In order to enlarge the draft to full size,
for all the figures
used.
which
a 36 inch breastmeasure, use inches
on the
is
draft.
is
The
The
jacket itself
finished at the neck with a collar, which
is
put on to the cape.
front, at
the neck,
held together by an agraffe ornament.
This garment, as
it
should appear,
may be
seen by the illustration.
FIG. 22.
These
drafts illustrate a
LADY'S JACKET.
which
will
new
style of lady's jacket,
effect at
be acceptable to
many
for street wear.
The
style
and general
once denote the character of the garment.
It
is
The
jacket
is
well adapted for
outdoor wear.
made with
therefore,
a moderate addition
in close
for doublebreasted
added on
to the forepart,
and the button holes are worked
;
together, as the buttons
now used
length,
are so very small
on
this jacket,
they are
placed only one inch apart.
The
waist
is
A
lapover
medium made at the
is
and the
skirt can
be made to
suit the height of the lady.
centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close
together.
The pockets may be put
ornamented with buttons.
Figure.
in
at the side
like a coat pocket, or
only a flap put on,
it
leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening.
Pockets, however, are only put
in
In the latter case
can be
when
it
is
cut longer than
The
sleeves are narrow, finished by a
row of buttons, and can be regulated
in
width
by the measure of the arm.
as close as possible.
This
is
very essential, as ladies nowadays like the sleeve
The
that
It
it
darts are cut
down
to the bottom,
which
is
more preferable
to the bottom.
to
running them to a
point, as a
seam looks better which runs continuously
will,
Cutting the dart so
its
reaches only to the hip,
in
unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at
lower end.
must always be borne
mind
that the spring
must be allowed
to rise at the sideseam.
lady's jacket.
39
The sudden
difference
rise of a
lady's hip,
and the marked
and of the
between the
size of the waist
body but a few inches below, make it extremely freedom difficult to obtain the necessary amount of
for the
prominence of the
this part of the
figure at
body.
The bottom edge
of this
jacket should be edged on
the inside by a facing of
silk,
which
is
held on tight
so that the edge
may
cling
close to the dressskirt.
The
collar
is
cut like a
lapel
coatcollar
rolls short.
and the
A
narrow bindis
ing onehalf inch wide o put on the edge on
all
goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material,
the
stitching
looks
more
to
appropriate.
The
buttonholes run
skirt.
down
in
the bottom of the
of jacket
This form
fine
makes up
well
diagonal or brocaded velvet.
For heavy winter wear, rough
suiting will
make very
stylish gar
ments.
The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips
as on the
Figure, and then
it
is
equally as well adapted to be worn
with any dress, as
illustrate.
in
the shape
we
40
SINGLEBREASTED LONG SACK.
FIG. 23.
SINGLEBREASTED LONG SACK.
closefitting, singlebreasted sack, consisting of back, side
Figure 23 represents a long,
body, front and sleeve.
They
are
as
all
drawn by measuring the
lines,
and placing the
the
number
draw the
finish
of inches on each line
designated by the numbers shown on
Figure.
Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and
lines across at rigfht angles with the line O.
When
these figures are
all
located,
by drawing the outlines.
the straight line
Draw
O down
to the desired length for the sidebody; at
all
"28.V
apply
the figures on the lines
F"or the front,
— when
these are
line
fixed curve the outlines.
draw the straight
;
down from O, and mark
all
the
number
of irches for
both length and width
The
line
sleeve
is
when these are drawn from O down
as
fixed finish the outlines.
to the required length, applying the
number
of
inches for length as well
width, as
shown
;
after these
have
all
been found, and the
drawn
at
right angles with
the line O, draw the outlines.
After the upper part of
//$
6y
JACKET OR CLOAK.
41
the sleeve has been drawn cut
it
out
;
then locate the points for the undersleeve, and lay
the back of uppersleeve against the points of the back part of the undersleeve, and
it
draw
like
the back of uppersleeve
;
fix
the points in front, and lay the uppersleeve on and
draw
for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as
shown.
FIG. 24.
JACKET OR CLOAK— FROM A WAIST PATTERN.
is
The method which
that can be used,
explained below
is
one of the most handy, as well as the
results.
It is
fit
easiest,
and
will invariably
produce good
evident, in the
lines,
first
place,
it
that the original pattern
must have the essential
qualities of
and good
on hand
otherwise
would be of
little
value as a base or guide to produce another garment.
it,
In order to get
in
such a waist pattern one must be able to design
or have
it
;
the latter case
we
are prepared to furnish these patterns
when
ordered.
THE back:
In drafting a jacket pattern, first
draw a
line (like
1
OG)
on the edge of your paper.
Lay the back against the line at O and within \ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it onefourth inch away, this is for seam then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3. Along the armhole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length
;
wanted from
O
to 5
and
9
and draw a
this, at
line
8,
over to
10.
From
5 to 9
draw a straight
line,
and then curve outside of
point
about onehalf inch, as shown on Figure.
7,
Make
from
the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point
and
first
this point
draw a
7,
line
down
to 10.
This line should be no further away from the
line at 10 than at
or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the
starting at
4,
same
as at waist,
from
H
to
7.
Now,
slightly curve
to
7
and go onehalf inch outside of
straight line to 10.
THE SIDEBODY.
In this case, as on the back,
the
first
it,
thing
at
we do
is
to
it
draw a
straight line from
line at the
O
to 10.
Now
lay the sidebody against
O, and swing
to 1\.
away from the
waist 1] inch.
inch
Trace along the pattern from
the last line,
5 to 6
O
Then move
1
the pattern onefourth
away from
seam.
which would leave from
in
7.
to 3 just onefourth inch for
for the
From
go
onehalf the distance allowed over and above the allow
ance on the back, as from 6 to
as possible the
Now
to 10.
curve the sidebody from
2 to 5,
keeping as nearly
parallel with
same shape
point 9
as the original.
Then from
5
draw a
line
down
the
first
line
which runs from
is
;
O
Now
apply the back from
2 to 9
and regulate the
9.
length, which
then from 5 curve onehalf inch outside of straight line at 8 to
At
9,
square across to
3,
10,
and
also
draw a
straight line from 1{ to 10,
hip, or
and begin
to curve
from
past
7,
to 10.
This curve should be more round near
begin to curve closer
8,
to the waist.
The
curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to
it
may be
gradual,
as
it
thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than
actually
is.
42
[ACKET OR CLOAK.
THE FRONT.
First
line,
draw the straight
line like
of
OB.
Lay the
forepart
of the pattern
it
against this
1
touching at the centre
at
3.
the breast, B, and trace along
inch to B.
at
the front from
to the
bottom
neck.
Next move the pattern back onehalf
Trace along the armhole
trifle
without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add onefourth inch, also a
at
On
the sideseam, from 15 to 20, add onefourth inch; then lay the finished sidefront,
body on top of the
touching point 15, and at the waist at
20,
and
finish
the balance
WALKING COAT.
43
from 20
to 22
by the sidebody.
Now
from the top of the shoulderpoint, by the bottom,
B.
point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at
for a doublebreasted jacket, as the
From
3 to
B draw
a straight line, and
Figure given, add on to the
it
front, at B, 3 inches, at waist
2^ inches,
at the
bottom
3 inches,
it
and shape
as shown.
At the bottom,
after
it
has been
curved by a sweep, straighten
onehalf inch above the sweep in the centre.
is
Instead of
two darts
inch,
at the
back only one
also taken out
used, as shown,
and
this
one can be increased onehall
and a cut
It is
is
under the arm from 16
in
to 17.
evident that two darts can be put
is
as well as
one, or
when the same
left
intended for plush goods the
darts can be
out altogether without altering the bal
ance
in
any manner.
a collar for this jacket
roll,
To produce
C,
draw a
is
line
from
where
it is
intended to
;
to E,
which
onehalf inch
this line
from curved line of neck
at 13 to 11
then drop
down from
one inch and curve the break, as shown from
11 to 12
is
11 to E.
line at F,
From
make
^ inch
;
curve this also to neckto the front.
is
and thence along the neck and shape
From
1^
11 to 13
the part of collar which
to turn over
to 2 inches wide,
to the front at G.
Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already
explained.
FIGS. 25
By using
AND
26.
WALKING
COAT.
a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking
coat can be cut in the most ready manner.
The back
is
the
same
as a sackjacket.
We
only
measure from the top down
to the length of
;
open
skirt A.
From
here add the lap for pleats
single pleats require
size, 2 to 4 inches.
only 1^ inch; box pleats, according to
The
sidebody
is
cut off at a length to correspond to 2
inch,
on back, plus onehalf
side seam.
and curved up some towards
sidebody, and the
The
front
is
made
as long as the
bottom swept from the shoulderpoint.
leave the skirt in pieces as
1,
When
cut
it
will
2,
3
and
4.
Now
take these pieces and lay them down, closing at
the opening will be no
hip, so that
more
at
bottom than
at
top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.
Now
4
10,
draw along the
5,
skirt at
back from 4 to
15.
From
to
draw towards
raise onehalf inch
above the pattern
curving pattern at front.
44
WALKINGCOAT.
Put
in a dart at 7.
From
11 to 16 trace alone the
front,
and also alone the bottom.
Add
the
the pleat behind.
The
sidebody
in this
Figure
is
laid in a closing position at side, point
1
2,
to
show
that
seam must have a continuous curve from
and
2 to the front.
The
distance from
1
and
2
to
3,
and from there
from
with
to the front,
is
noted, and the skirt
4 to 57
1
and
11 should be just the
is
same
in beIt
inch
more added, which
is
pressed
fore the skirt
will
seamed on
in
to the forepart.
be noticed that
laying the pieces of the
of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and
13,
but at the top and bottom they are sepdistances, the
arated, equal
cut at 7
fullness
reduces
equalizes
one opening,
the
and
1
inch
is
amount the
fullness
greater at 9
and
forward.
The
addition for single and double
breasted
in front
is
made by adding on
skirt for a single
of the forepart and also
:
on to the
breasted
for a
1
inch
is
enough, but
doublebreasted from 2 to
is
3 inches
required.
^^
DOUBLEBREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.
45
FIG. 27.
Commence
System
this
DOUBLEBREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.
by drafting on the same principle as
all
drafts
— by the
Proportionate
— by drawing line from
O
to F.
From
O
go down
to 11
threefourths of an inch,
and
to 10 2 inches;
from 11
to 10
curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of
the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to
D
18 inches
and
to
F
the
full
length,
32 inches
;
at C,
O
and F draw right angle
11
lines across.
1
.V
Draw
a line from
to
l.1,,
and one from
to
From C to the back is 1^ F; make the width of back from
inch
;
14 to
4G
DOUBI.EISREASTED
NEWMARKET
JACKET.
2
inches wide.
From O
is
to
B
is
onefourth of the breastmeasure, 9 inches in a 36 inch
;
breast,
and
is
A
midway between these two points
1
draw
lines
over from
B
to
G
onethird of breast and
4{,
inch, equal
is
to 7 inches;
from
G
to
A and B. From H is onefourth of
breast, or
inches.
From Y
to
J
onehalf of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G,
H
and
J,
also
down from
J to N.
Where
inch above
line
A
crosses line G, at M,
draw another
line
from
M
to 10
;
raise onehalf
M
to V,
and draw
a curved line from 10 to V.
Commence
to curve the
armhole from
V
to
M
and H, dropping onefourth inch below
breastline at 15.
In the centre,
between
M
and G, begin
to
draw the back
to 2 at waist,
and from
will
there,
with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from
F
to
Z
be about
equal to that from
C
to
2.
Go
S,
in
it
from
2 to 3
one inch and shape the sidebody from
line
under the arm to
3
and
where
touches the back;
make
the sidebody any width desired, say 2 inches to 14,
the
same from
it
3 to 4, curve the
give
ease over the hips; also
seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4
is
1
J,
and
20
is
20.
From S
same
this
5.
curve up to 21, which latter point
inch above the line S1S.
Point
on the
level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front
seam which runs
down from
from 4 to 5
The
to
;
piece under the
arm
is 1
inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches
draft.
;
should be shaped somewhat like
is
From L
10 to
I
onesixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the
I
same down from L
to T.
Curve the neck
from
to
I
A
to
draw a straight
line,
and place the length of shoulder from
line at
V
on the front from
U
;
shape the front of shoulder by dropping below
U
onehalf inch,
and
raise slightly
above
it
at 12.
Finish drawing the armhole from
U
to
H, going out beyond the
line
H
at
13 about
one half
inch.
Draw from
T, at the front, outside of
J
onehalf inch, thence to
to point
K
at waist,
going
inside of front line onefourth inch at
K
and
N
P
at
bottom.
In the middle,
this
between
J
and H, locate a point
inch between 2 and
for the dart,
and
in the centre,
between
and H,
fix
another point for the back dart.
taking out
1
From K
3,
to
1?,,
across the waist, measure
the
distance,
which
will
be 16 inches; deduct the
is
size of waist, 12 inches,
from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches,
to
be taken out
in
darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each.
is
From K
to 9
is
2 inches;
from 9 to 8
another
one dart
;
from 8 to
7,
between the
darts,
is
threefourths inch
;
from
7 to 6 is
dart of 2 inches.
and
at
6,
About 2^ inches below the waistline begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 nearly straight down from waistline. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N
onehalf inch below straight line.
the lapel straight on
in
its
;
N
it is
Make
inside edge,
and
2
inches at waist, and 3 inches at
centre of breast,
width, and shape like Figure.
To draw
line to R,
the skirt lay a straightedge from 3 to S against the sidebody, and draw a
it
then curve
about onehalf inch more over the hips.
Regulate the length by
the back.
From S draw
the upper edge of the skirt to within onehalf inch of sidebody
TRAVELING ULSTER.
47
at 21,
thence to
N
;
from
N
forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down
;
also
put
in
two cuts on the
it,
hip, of onehalf inch each,
little
and the
skirt will
be right to
fit
the body.
Should
on measuring, be a
too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever
overlaps on the sidebody will equalize the loss of the darts.
A
flap can
be put on over the
hips.
An
ordinary coatcollar will suit this jacket.
FIG. 28.
TRAVELING ULSTER.
for
A
Spring and Fall garment
is
traveling or outdoor wear
is
represented by this
Figure and
a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged
for the
by simply using inches
numbers marked upon
it.
The
draft
is
a closefitting
collar
traveling paletot, doublebreasted, and buttons
down
to the bottom,
and has a
which
48
TRAVELING ULSTER.
turns over, as represented by
iron,
Fig.
it
5.
This collar should be well stretched with the hot
on, in order that
is
it
at the
lower edge, before
is
sewed
may
cling
around the neck
nicely.
This way of making and sewing on a collar
is
far
superior to the usual custom of
or other ladies' garments.
in
dressmakers, and
always adopted by tailors
in
making jackets
lap,
The back has
at its centre,
below the waist, a
it
which can be put
a boxpleat or
lapped over like a coat, and at the side
has a simple pleat.
The
front has a large dart cut in
one piece
is
— that
flaps.
is,
like a sack coat,
having the
skirt
attached to the body
— but
in
the sidebody
sewed
in
as cut, in a separate piece.
Over
the hips pockets are put
covered with liberal
For use
it
as a traveling
garment
it
will
be well to make
it
out of waterproof cloth, but
makes
a
handsome
street paletot
when made out
of diagonal cloth or melton.
73
Fig. 29.
7k
NEWMARKET.
49
FIGS. 29
accordance with the directions.
of inches
AND
First
30.
NEWMARKET.
dart.
This style of Newmarket has only one
Proceed to make a
full
size draft in
draw
a straight line 0,
;
and mark
off the
number
and on
down from O, as given on the Figure at these points draw lines these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed
part of the garment.
across,
to
draw each
P
i
2fr
50
RIDINGHAUIT.
•.IN
RIDINGHABIT.
51
FIG. 31.
The demand and
RIDINGHABIT.
far,
orders for these garments have, so
been considerable
in the
leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those
for the highest fashionables, but especially to those
who make them
ladies
who
are located
in
smaller towns and
who are not often who have a horse
and
it
called
upon
to
make
this style of
garment.
There are now many
is
at their disposal,
and whose chief enjoyment
in
equestrian exercise,
is
quite necessary, not only tor the tailor but the dressmaker, to
know how
a riding
habit should be cut and made.
a tailor to
make a
stylish
At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but ridinghabit, but now many ladies have them made by their
a
dressmakers.
The
first
thing necessary
is
good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern
must be
cut,
as a wellsetting,
comfortable ridinghabit cannot
be made without
it.
The
iarities
:
jacket has a few pecu
There should be no
seam
;
down
the are
the middle of the back
front,
sidebody and back
cut
one
inch
below the
natural waist.
The
pleat
coat.
skirt
and back form a
like
the skirtpleat of a
The buttons should be small
and round.
tightly
The
sleeves
at wrist.
are
buttoned up
The
be
inside of jacket should
lined
with
silk,
carefully
in
wadded and
rows.
side,
It
stitched
close
in
should have a belt
stitched to each
<eam
it
at
waist,
which
is
to close
tight
to the form.
The Figures we give show to advantage some of these The draft peculiarities.
is
a
good model of such
and
is
a
habit,
univer
sally adopted,
being both
It
suitable
and elegant.
quite
"looks
English"
52
CIRCULAR.
and very
pretty.
A
plain
standing collar of
it
white linen should be worn with
and a gentlethe a
jacket
flat
is
man's cravat of black
silk,
or
if
made with
is
the lapels turning
down
scarf
more appropriate.
We
"
add
This
to
this
an
of
article
published
"
in
Munster's
Gazette
will
Fashion
on
riding
habits.
enable
our readers
to
be
more
"
fully posted, not
is
only on
what
is
worn
here but what
in
keeping with London styles:
We
have devoted one of the plates issued with the
of
current number
of the newest
our publication to the representation
style of a lady's riding
and most fashionable
habit in wear.
The lengthening
of
the waist,
which we
it
reported
last year,
It is
has been maintained, although
has not been increased; and the jacketskirt
is
about the same
at
in length.
fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small standcollar rounded off
is
the
front.
The
jacketskirt
cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore,
is
and
at front
runs
off at
an angle from
the bottom of the front edge of the forepart, and
to give
it
lined with cloth, or interlined with
some
article of substance,
a firmness.
in
it,
The edges
of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom.
is
A
small square tab, with
two holes
is
sewn across under the bottom of the back, and
train.
fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top
silk braid,
of the back part of
The edges
are usually
silk.
trimmed with
a
narrow
silk
sewn on
flat,
and the body and
Five or six
the sleeves lined with light colored
Ball buttons
and fancy
buttons are generally used.
buttons are sewn on at the hindarm; the two lower holes only are worked open.
Some
of
ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their ridinghabits,
to the bodies
and eschewing
all fictitious
aids
by way
adornment
have made them perfectly
plain, with the
edges turned in and stitched, and smoked
pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.
Veils are no longer considered correct,
no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate
in
character
and out of place with the " billycock " hat.
The
train, as
now worn,
is
only cut a few inches longer than the walking length.
It
is
turned up
at the
bottom, with a narrow
hem
only,
and the V's taken out
in rich
at the
seams are covered with ribbon.
Colored habits are being worn
also worn.
shades of brown, olive and green
— not too
light.
Blue and black are
The
small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their
making up
so
satisfactorily.
Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the
makes are not
so appropriate.
One
inevitable consequence of short
and scanty
trains
is
the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian
exercise, to
wear riding trousers.
They
are usually
made
of the
same cloth
as the habit, with a flyfront
open
to
legseam, or with a long opening at each sideseam and a button and buttonhole in the centre, and
at
a
narrow strap
bottom."
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for
all
numbers on the
for waists,
draft.
But
in draft
ing
it
to
measure use the same principle as
7
laid
last
down
and lengthen the
skirt as
on Fioure
and draw the
skirt like that
on
Figure.
FIG. 32.
Draw
lines
CIRCULAR.
1
.V
OS and OJ. From O to J is onefourth of breast. From O to H is inch inside of line at onethird of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and the waist.
CIRCULAR.
53
touching frontline at
pattern at
to F.
1
1,
J.
Draw along
the top of the back from
H
2,
to
1,
and add
to the
for seams, onehalf inch.
J,
Draw from
in
1
to
F and from
3.
on the front shoulder,
4.
From
2
along the front of the bodypattern, draw a straight line to
line
Now
from
to 5
and
draw a
and make a point
the centre at
Apply the length from
H
for full length of
what the garment should
bottom edge
the Figure.
be,
;
and using point
3 as a pivot
5,
sweep from
and
in
5 to the front for the lower or
at
4,
then square the bottom at
front
as
shown
seam
in
If a
is
wanted draw a
line
through the centre from F and take out about
3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7
and
6 to
8.
For a
close back, curve from
H
along the back to 1+ and thence to 5 at bottom.
54
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
FIGS. 33
In
AND
34.
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
first
making
a pattern of this
garment we
draw
a line
on the edge of paper and
make
a point on the right end, as O.
I
From O down
first
place threefourths of an inch.
From
I
O
J.
to
is
onehalf of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size.
I
Between
O
and
is
H
and
are at right angles with
2'/2
backline.
From
up
to
I
over on the line place one1
O
4^
third of breast, equal to 6 inches,
7
and add
5.
inch,
making
on
in
all
inches,
and draw
21

a line
Next, from
2.
O
top line
place 2 or
inches and curve from \ to
\
Measure down from
to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches,
J
and the whole length
to R.
Go
in
from straight line at
1
.V
D
1
1
inch
and curve the
right backseam from \ to
and R. and
curve
Make
5 1
the
back, at
waist, 4
at
inches
wide
from
through waist at 11 to 12
bottom.
The
at
run of this line
11,
should be nearly straight past
V
1
and curving
inch
and should
also be wider at bottom, about
more than from
5.
D
to 11.
From
2Jj
draw a
line raising
it
onehalf inch at
For the
front (Figure 34)
draw a straight
line
from
O
to
to
J.
From O down to a is oneeighth of breast, equal to 2JFrom O to B is onesixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O
IZ l>
inches.
K
is
onefourth of breast, or 9 inches.
points.
Square
is
lines across at all these
From O
line at C.
to A, the neck,
to the point
onesixth of breast.
Lay the back on
on the
in this position,
A
and extreme shoulder resting
it is
Now
draw along the back shoulder while
to 12,
and also curve from C
out to
which should only
be 4 inches below C.
From K go
H
onequarter of the breast, less
this
1
inch,
equal to 8 inches.
Having established
lines.
we can curve
the
shoulder easier, as seen by dotted
Measure from
K
over
on the line onehalf of breast, equal to 18 inches, and onethird of
Fig. 33.
breast, or 6 inches, added.
Now
lay the backline against this last point in such a
way
will
if
that point 5 of the back will rest on line A13,
and so that
measure
it
be placed as seen
the distance from
half
in
Figure
35.
Then
carefully
to see
KH
and
to the backline will
be exactly one12 to
and onethird of
breast, or 27 inches.
Then curve from
it
13 to 14
4 inches
down
the back and
it
reducing
at
the bottom about
is
from the position as
would be when the back
laid
as stated.
Now
/2
71
by the length of the back regulate that of the
front,
and
then sweep by the point of shoulder
point,
A
from 10 to
J.
This
latter
and part of
this round, as
produced by the sweep, should
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
55
be shortened about
1
inch.
Curve the neck from
A
to
B,
and add
1
inch
all
alono the
front for a turnin hem.
From where
sleevehead.
the back
lies
against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of
The upper
Figure 35.)
part of the sleevediead should be gatheredin considerable, and at
facilitate the
O
a
notch should be placed to
sewing
in, for
notch should be sewn on notch. (See
'/G
56
CLOSED CIRCULAR.
FIG. 35.
and cut without a seam from
are
CLOSED CIRCULAR.
it
After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay
against the front
O down
to the bottom.
For
this shape, after the
shoulders
cut like
seamed
B.
up, gather in the
round of sleeve from
O
forward.
The same can be
in a straight
the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom,
from
This makes a wrap with a back wing and a
left for
front.
When
cut in this
down manner an
line
opening can be
the hands to go through, as
shown on the Figure, below E.
in
A
their
short cape, such as have been
is
worn
for
some time
Europe, and are just making This same
appearance here,
cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist.
DOLMAN.
57
wrap can be cut from a clolman pattern by laying the sleeve
of a
dolman on
to front so that the
front
notches come
together and the two patterns close together some distance
above, or
till
within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder,
then draw along sleevetop past the back of the sleeve.
If a line
is
drawn through the shoulderpoint, next
on
line
to
^<f?4\
Vrf
}.).,
the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back
shoulderpoint
sleeve at blade,
laid
it
this
and closing against the
will
represent exactly this circular cape,
it.
vT"^
V* ^)\
and
will
be one of the easiest ways to make
appears when lying
The Figure
line
shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted
from
E
forward, as
it
in position.
silk,
These several wraps can be made of
lined, or
and
fur
they
in
may be
of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are
outline
handsome
shape and
when
correctly cut.
they are so different from the old circular they will
As be much
sought
after,
because of the
newness of design and that
the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize
with
the
increased preva
lence of gathered and high
style of sleeveheads.
FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.
Draw
make
it
DOLMAN.
line
a line
of an inch.
2^
OH From O
;
from O, down, mark threefourths
draw a short
to
over to
is
3,
and
inches.
From O down
B
onefourth of
breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast.
Point
F
is
in
the centre, between
of the waist,
and
to
O and B H the full
;
from f to
D
is
the length
length of garment.
Draw
in
lines across at F,
the centre,
B and D. Between F and B, directly make a mark C, and draw a line across.
the waist
13,
Go
from

in
at
1J
inch from line at
D
;
draw
line
to
for the centre of back,
at
and curve below
to 4
D
to
H.
From
1^,
waist,
measure
in
3^ inches to 4
inches,
On
On
raise
it
line
C make
the width of back onethird of breast
line up.
and one inch and draw a
the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and
onehalf inch above 14
;
commencing
there, exactly
58
DOLMAN.
at
the
crossing
of the
first
lines,
begin to curve past 16 and 4 to
a
line across in the middle,
size,
1

at
bottom.
F, from
Having
finished the
back,
make
till
between
in
and
E
over
;
next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular
at
15,
on 15 as when sewn
the armhole; holding
it
swing
it
down
the upper part of
in
the sleevehead rests about onehalf inch
below
line E, at 13,
and when
this
position
draw along the round of the
15, past 13, to 2.
sleeve,
which
will give exactly the
round as shown on the Figure from
DOLMAN.
59
Next, placing the width over from B on the back
line,
measure
Point
to 10, 24 inches,
and and
curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches.
G
is
about 12 inches
8,
below the waist, and from
this place
1
inch
more than onequarter of
the hips to
;
draw from
6,
which
is
onequarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9
then finish the
curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape.
is
The
front
constructed by drawing a line from
O down
the front edge or centre of front.
From
O
over to shoulder point
is
onesixth breast, the
;
same down
3, is
to 3
;
also
go down
oneeighth breast and draw a line across
curve the neck from \ to
and apply the same
onehalf breast to E,
less 1 inch.
width of shoulder as the back on the
there draw a line over to 8 and
front,
\ to 10
From O down
make
last point,
from E, onefourth breast
60
DOLMAN.
Measure the distance on the back, from B
over from
to
H, and place
it
from
the bottom of the front by the shoulderpoint, which gives line P to K.
E to P, then sweep Make the distance
draw a
line
H
J
to J to L.
onequarter of the hips, and
1
to
1
'.»
i
inch more;
from
K
to
through
Next measure the back from
buttons.
6 to
and place the same from
K
up
L
;
curve armhole from 10 through 8 to L.
Add
3 inches for a lap of doublebreasted
style
;
mark and space the
undersleeve
is
The The
find
cut like the upper part from 2 to 10
is
and
11, like the
outside curve.
the front
is
inside curve from 2 to 7
short, just
as
much
is
as
is
needed
from
to
sew
2,
in
— to
this
how much
this
should be
we make
is left
a notch opposite 14 and one at
inch,
which
16,
about
10 inches from 14.
This measure,
notch.
less 1
marked
10
to
and
7,
at that
point
make another
What
from 16 to
L must
line
be placed from 2 to
7 to the star,
and
curve should be like curve on front.
the whole garment.
In order to draft a
Lastly,
draw a
from
which finishes
dolman pattern which
will
fit
well
and hang with a good balance
used,
the
same manner of drafting
as that which produces a
good shaped sack should be
in
then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as
sack,
a tightfitting
and a dolman can then be cut as close as
a sack,
if
so desired.
fact,
The manner
of drafting the back, sidebody and front, are, in
in
just like a sack, the
in
main difference being
_
the shape of the sleeve.
The
sleeve,
even
the upper part,
must be
*~
..
like
an ordinary coatsleeve, while the lower part
of the various shapes in fashion.
JV
r'
/
>
may be any
In
drafting
;
make
a
line
is
to
start
on from
O
B
is is
to
F
(Figure 37)
from
O down
is 2]
threefourths inch, and from
1.
O
over to top line
inches to
From O
Point
is
to
one
fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size.
D
in
the
middle, between
O
and
B,
and point
;>,
6
in
the middle, be
tween
O
and D.
to
measure down
length.
From which is the top of the back, C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full
is
Point
E
is
6 inches, or onethird of breast,
below
the waistline at C.
At
line
all
these points draw lines across.
1
From B
to
H
onethird and
inch, equal,
in
on 36 breast,
I,
to 7 inches;
draw a
go
up
to
1
;
the middle, between
the point where the two lines cross and H,
mark point K.
to 3
At the
3 to
waistline
in
from straight line
C
one and
onehalf inches, then draw line
F.
down from
line at
f to 3
and from
Also draw a straight from 3 to
6 at
right angles with
waistline
bottom.
4,
Make
and draw
from
the width at waist, from 3 to
also a line
about 3 inches,
down to 7. Now curve backseam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place
7 to 8,
and curve from 4 past
I
5 to
8.
I
Draw
a line from
to
1,
raise
above
to J threefourths
DOLMAN.
61
inch,
and curve the shoulder.
also
Starting from
J
J
up upright
line,
curve
back seam
to
4
and 8;
mark
a
dim
line
is
from
past
I,
K
C
to G, just like in a sack
back
— the
dotted
line
shows
that.
Point
G
onefourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.
to
3,
Notice that the curve on the back, from
is
a trifle outside of the straight line,
and that below
3
it
runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below
E
it
curves outside again to F.
The
inside
seam from
J
past breastline should be very nearly straight, and begin to
curve only near the waist, and from 5
down
it
must have the same curve as outside
line
below point
E
to F.
for a 36 size
Now
head
and
have a sleeve cut
and lay
then
in
this
on to K, as shown, so that the sleeveI
rests against the line
from
K
to
I
;
the centre, between
and K,
find point 2
stick a pin.
Now
it
turn to Figure 38:
at 2,
In the middle,
between
line
A
and D, draw
till
line
E
;
keeping
pinned
move
the lower part of the sleeve towards the back
the top of the sleeve
—
62
DOLMAN.
head just touches
along the top from
sleeve
pattern,
to
line
2 to
E
B.
it
at
10.
9,
While
it
lays thus
9, in
draw
10 and
also
down from
front of
line
This gives the outline of the
line
sleeve, but
10, inside of
we modify
by drawing a corrected
from
point 9 of sleeve,
down
lines
to 12.
Fieure 39 eives the balance of the sleeve.
a line
line
in
First
draw
the centre, between
B and
C, which places
D.
Then
point
2,
take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at
stick a pin at point
and without moving the sleeve
is
U
;
this point
found twothirds of the width of the sleeve
this
is
it
for
ward.
When
at
done take hold of the sleeve
upwards,
till
at its lower
point and
line
move
point
T
of sleeve rests on
D
N, and then curve from 16 to N.
To produce
this
curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line
at 17,
line
D
and place the same from 17
18,
to 19,
and draw a straight
16, resting
from 19 to
then curve line from
on line
at
20,
15,
thence to N.
From N
curve form of sleeve to 21
sleeve,
and
and
for
in
to 13 for
one style of
or from
U
to
21
and 14
another
style. 5 threequarters of
Go
from 4 to
an inch
it
;
curve from
10, past 2,
touching the back, and along
past line B, and
this last line
thence separate from the back to 5 and 14
must
iLLLUIil"
L
"
touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and
is
marked
5
on the same.
THE FRONT— FIG.
Lay
bottom
the
40.
back down on paper and extend
all
the lines across, line A, B, C,
D
and
line.
Measure from Z
up
at
to
1
A
on line B. onehalf of breast, or 18 inches; from B to
H
is
onethird of breast and
a line
P,
inch;
H
to
P
is
onefourth of breast, equal to
4.',
inches.
to
Draw
and one up and down
at A.
is
Mark
line
A
also.
From K
L
is
onesixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and
K
to 7
the same, 3 inches; curve neck.
Draw
a line from
L
to
8
L
to
8,
and curve from
and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from upwards above the line onefourth inch draw from 8 down in
;
D
front of line
P
to
9.
This
will
be threefourths inch
in
front of line P.
Let
lines
this
curve of
the armhole extend below line B, or nearly
down
is
to
midway between
B and C, and
;
curve to
6.
From
it
6
draw down
to
1
5,
which
threefourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17
at
the last point
back.
should be about
\ inch over the straight line
drawn down from
4
on the
From
from from
B,
point G, which, as before stated,
a straight line
is
onefourth of the breastmeasure, 9 inches
draw
;
down. Curve from
to 12, 14
G
to 12, 13
is
and
the
18
;
the last point
is
2
inches
as 18.
T
also curve
from
G
and
19.
Point 19
same distance from
T
DOLMAN.
(,:>,
Draw bottom
the
line.
line
from 19 to 30 at
over
front,
where curve threefourths inch below
inches,
Add
in
front
F
line,
for
doublebreasted 3
and
This
for
single
breasted 1^ inches.
Now we
measuring
first
have only to show how the undersleeve
the sleevehead from O, where point
J
is
produced.
is
is
done by
which
of the back
sewn on,
to 16,
point
is
in
middle, between 9 and 18.
it
This
will
of fullness in the sleevehead
front from 8 to 10
leaves us only
H
measure 1<H inches; as we put in 1 inch inches, which is measured down the
and notched.
Lay sleeve
notch,
line
marked
16,
on to notch on the
will lay parallel
fore
part 10, hold
it
there with a pin,
move
it
till
on sleeve, marked C,
with
64
DOLMAN.
any of the
lines, as
C
or
B on
forepart.
Then mark on
the forepart along the sleeve,
from notch at 10 to
N
of sleeve, and from
N
to 21
;
the sleeve will
now be marked on
the
forepart line 10 to O,
P and A, and
will
be cut the same shape as the armhole from 10 to
A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.
The
duce any
principle as given in this article
style of
is
suitable,
and the only thing necessary,
Pleated backs, or very
to pro
dolman.
The change necessary
for the short or
long pointed sleeve, or for
any shape of armwing, does not
required for pleats or fullness.
alter the principle.
much
fullness
in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting
enough extra goods in to meet the
amount
When
more
in
1
a regular pattern
is
is
cut addition
is
made where
pleats are wanted.
is
When
fullness
wanted
in
the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan
to cut the sleeve
two, from the highest part of the sleevehead, and opened as far as
required, about
or 2 inches,
and a
little
The
fit,
principle, as
it
more round put on the top. shown in this book, will produce
all
for
every style of garment a correct
and yet
may be urged upon
using
it,
that in order to produce
new
styles, or gar
ments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader's
own
by
judgment must necessarily help to carry him through.
In conclusion, let
me
say
— that
any point or measuring that does not seem
of my
ability.
clear,
addressing
me
I
will
always be ready to enlighten to the best
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
/
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B 014 062 021
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