You are on page 1of 168

THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOmEDIA Of

COSTUME
^FASHION IS&O'I^U

OA
a

JacK -Scott ""^l^"

Take a colourful journey through time. We start in
those turbulent years of war and intrigue, the Late
Middle Ages, which spanned the reigns of some
of Europe's most memorable monarchs before
moving on to the High Renaissance and through
to the so-calledAge of Reason and Elegance. In

every period a host of figures depict the age's
colourful characters ranging from peasants to
princes, from musicians to musketeers.

This book then goes on to explore the most
brilliant and exciting epoch in costume history,
the Rococo. Its elaborately ornamented
architecture, furnitureand art provided new
concepts in decorative and even fantastic
costumes. France continued to lead the fashion
world throughout the Revolution, the Directoire,
the Empire, the Romantic Era and the Second
Rococo but then English, German, Spanish and
other European influences begin to emerge.
English designs became increasingly influential
during the Victorian era and the early years of the
twentieth century. Nor was America behind. Elias
Howe's invention of the sewing machine in 1 846
facilitated great advancement in the clothing
industry and led to the late twentieth century
revolution in casual fashion.

In tracing the fascinating and colourful changes
of nearly 400 years, encyclopedia with its 1 50
this
colour illustrations of the great years of fashion
will be as interesting and valuable to the modern

fashion designer, the photographer, the
wardrobe mistress or theatrical performer as it is
to the general reader.

Jack Cassin-Scott is well known for his models
and his illustrations in books on military uniforms.
He has made a life-long study of costume and
fashion.

o-ijff}

^

BOSTOTSI
PUBLIC
LIBRARY

.

THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOmCDIA Of COSTUME ^FASHION 15501920 .

.

THE ILLUSTRATEDENCYCLORiVEDlA OF COSTUME ^FASHION 15501920 Jack Cassin-Scott BLANDFORD PRESS POOLE NEW YORK SYDNEY HN6T0N VILLAGE .

148 Die Dame. lOB Allgemeine Modezeitung. 40 ID. 136 Cassels Magazine. c 1881. 1792 69 Journal des Luxus und der Moden.009 GT580'<^3"7 J ^^L'Y^ Gallery of the English Costume. 48 Contemporary 1. 1918 and Wiener Modezeitung. de British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Saint-Jean 39 ID de Saint-Jean. 1860 117 Magazine de Demoiselles. 57 Arthur Devis and Adolphe Menzel. 1894. 1880 126 Continental lithograph.. Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty Ltd. c. de Saint-Jean and Contemporary Continental Cassin-Scott. 119 Continental lithograph. 1850. 1862. 1775. 1810/11/12/13. 133 Cut of Women s Clothes. c. U9 Cassels Magazine. 28 Wenceslaus Hollar and contemporary Continental Sources. 98 Journal des Dames et des Modes. 104 Cut of Men s Clothes. recording or any information storage Costume. 77 journal des Dames. 1786 64 After Lister. c. 1912. 1913. 1831. 1857. c. 72 After Vernet. de Saint-Jean. 1840. 61 Victoria and ISBN 7137 18110 Albert Museum. c. 63 Journal des Luius und der Moden. 79 Moi^e m photocopying. 55 William Hogarth. 1789. New York. 146 Les Modes and die Dame. Costume. 65 Mode in Costume. 115 Continental lithograph. 137 Cassels Magazine. 85 Ladys Magazme. 1895. West Street. 1863 120 Allgemeine Modezeitung. electronic or mechanical. 127 Continental lithograph. 1814. 1975 and 1986 Blandford Press Ltd Flemish Artist 6 Francois Clouet and National Trust. 25 Van Dyck. 1896. All rights reserved. c. 1800. 1908/9. Meyern and Wenceslaus Hollar. der Bazar and continental m 61^7 lithograph. 9 Contemporary Continental Sources. Dorset BH15 ILL 1 Bronzine and Hans Eworlh. 59 Taylors Complete Guide. Laver. 1833. 1836 96/97 Mode de Pans. 116 Magazine de Demoiselles. 90 Journal des Dames et des Modes. 1873. 99 Allgemeine Modezeitung. 89 Journal des Dames et des Modes. 1855. 1792 70 After N Heideloff. 62 After Calet. 1855/57. 1801. 1899 141 Cut of Women's Clothes. 10016. 44 Largilliere The illustrated encyclopaedia of costume and fashion and an Unknown Artist 45 Bonnard and Contemporary Continental Sources. 1793 73 After Vernet and Tresca. 46 Zur 1550-1920. 83 Journal des Dames. 134 Cassels Magazme. 95 La Mode. 92 Allgemeine Modezeitung. 125 Con- tinental lithograph. 147 Die Dame. 109 Weiner Elegante. 1826. 1822. 82 La Mesangere. 1793. 54 An original specimen at The 391'. 31 Gerard ter Borch and Wenceslaus Hollar. 88 Journal des Dames. 114 Costume Cavalcade. 111 Continental lithograph. published in the UK 1986 by Blandford Press. 138 Cassels Magazine. des Dames 1842 102 Allgemeine Modezeitung. 1790-91 68 Costume Cavalcade and Journal des Luxus und der Moden. 1818. c 1846. c. 5 Antonio More and an Unknown Copyright ©1971. 1836 and Monthly Belle Assemble. London 13 Daniel Mytens and Zur Geschichte der Kostume. c. 1895. 1815.91 Concise History of Costume. 1844. 1876. 29 Van Dyck. 22 Wenceslaus Distributed in Australia by Hollar and Engraving of the 17th century 23 Diego de Silva Velazquez. 1885/87. 1839. 24 Van Dyck. 1795. 1834. 103 Le Folet. 1860. 1912. 1836/37. 1805. 112/113 Penelope. 1849 107 Allgemeine Modezeitung. No part of this book may . Geschichte der Kostume and an Unknown Artist 47 Jodokus Verbeek. 20 Van Dyck and Daniel Mytens 21 Meissonier and an Unknown Artist. 1918 150 Cut of Women's Clothes and the Tailor and Cutter. 1852. History Continental Sources and Temple Newsom House. 132 Der Bazar. 144 Die Dame. Laver. 1862 118 Magazine des Demoiselles. 1876 124 Continental lithograph. 101 Journal Printed in Hong Kong by South China Printing Co. 33 Diego de Silva Velazquez 34 A. 110 Cut of Women s Clothes. Manchester. 58 Adolph Menzel and Henry Pickering. 1884. 1831. 2 Titian and George Gower 3 Barthol Bruyn and Hans Eworth 4 Cornelis Ketel and Pantoja de la Cruz. 10 Pantoja de la Cruz. 1808. Wilcox. Distributed in the United States by 14 Reubens and contemporary Contmental Sources 15 Van Dyck and Gerard Sterling Publishing Co. 94 Monthly Belle Assemble. 1851. 1920s. 1896. 12 Isaac Oliver and The Costume Museum. 1915. 1895 135 Cassels Magazine. 128/129 American and continental lithographs. Jack Sources 41 Hyacinthe Rigaud and ID de Saint-Jean 42 D de Saint-Jean and I Contemporary Continental Sources 43 Trouvain and ID. 1840/41. 86 Allgemeine Modezeitung. 1794 71 Journal be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by der Luxus und der Moden. Inc. 1789. 142/143 Jllustnerte Frauenzeitung and Journal des Dames. First Sources of Illustrations in the Plates Link House. 1809. 105 Allgemeine Modezeitung. 1826. 35 Gerard ter Borch 36 Netscher. Shrewsbury 7 Alonzo Sanchez Coello. 74 Journal der Luxus und der Moden. 1800 75 La Mesangere. 52 Herriset 53 Alan Ramsay. 1820. 1860. NSW 2066 30 Wenceslaus Hollar. 18 Contemporary Continental Sources 19 Abraham Bosse and Gerard Honthorst. Wilcox. c. c 1879. . 100 Le Bon Ton. 26 Wenceslaus Hollar 27 Wenceslaus Hollar and Daniel Mytens. 1887. 1829. 1893. 93 Allgemeine Typeset by Megaron Typesettmg Modezeitung. N. 1903. 50 Richard Waitt and Contemporary Continental Sources 51 William Hogarth and Contemporary Continental Sources. 122 Continental lithograph. 8 Contemporary Continental Sources. 131 Costume Cavalcade. 1897 140 After Reznicek. 2 Park Avenue. 32 I C. 123 Continental lithograph. 1760-70. 80/81 Journal des Dames and allgememe Mode. 1765. 1846. Lane Cove. 1917. 1865 121 After Tissot. 78 Journal des Dames. 1796 60 Contmental lithograph. 76 Journal des any means. 145 Journal des Demoiselles. PO Box 665. 1852. Leeds 49 Godfrey Kneller. 1848 106 Le Moniteur de la Mode. 1888. 87 Concise History of Costume. 149 Vogue. Van Tempel. without permission in Magazine. 84 Journal des Dames and Lady's and retrieval system. Poole. Honthorst 16 Contemporary Continental Sources 17 Diego de Silva Velazquez. 130 Continental lithograph. 66/67 Journal des Luxus und der Moden. 37 ID Saint-Jean and Gerard ter Borch 38 Bonnart and ID.Y. writing from the Publisher. 56 Francois Boucher.. 1838. 11 Pourbus and an Unknown Artist. child's fashion. including Modes.

-- Contents Glossary 6 Introduction 8 1550-1620 (Plates 1 12) 9 1620-1670 (Plates 13 -36) 21 1670-1760 (Plates 37 -59) 45 1760-1789 (Plates 60 -64) 68 1789-1794 (Plates 65 -72) 73 1795-1804 (Plates 73 -77) 81 1804-1820 (Plates 78--85) 86 1820-1840 (Plates86--99) 94 1840-1870 (Plates 100 -120) 108 1870-1900 (Plates 121 -140) 129 1900-1920 (Plates 141 -150) 149 Index 159 .

puckered flounce A la chinoise Hair pulled tightly back at sides of head Carmagnole Peasant jacket Gaiter Covering for instep or ankle. named after scented pastille garment of same name shoulders of musk which he carried Buskin Close-fitting. exaggerated style re-introduced briefly in 1908 Burnous Mantle with hood influenced by Arabian Epaulette Collar. knee-length breeches Bents Strips of bone or wood to distend farthingales just above knee Bertha Deep collar of lace or silk around neck and Lappet Lace or linen pieces attached to cap. sometimes Band strings Usually tasselled ties for fastening ruffs in shoulder cape worn with ornamental pin at throat front Chemise Undergarment of linen worn by male and Jockei Short oversleeve Banyan Loose coat worn indoors. worn over right wigs and headdresses were very large Incroyable Dandy of 1795 shoulder. sometimes Cherusque Standing ruff collar made of lace hanging longer at back neck Cloak bag breeches Baggy. Bum roll Padded roll for distending hips Engageantes Ruffles of lace showing at cuff of dress 1795. supporting a sword Chaperone Headdress combining hood and small Jabot Full frill at neck. usually of washable female material Justaucorps French name for man's close-fitting coat Chemisette Tulle. often silk curls at either side lined Golillia Spanish for standing collar round back of head A sous pieds Trousers or pantaloons fastening under Cavalier hat Type of hat worn by English Royalists Guards Borders either plain or decorated to conceal the foot seams Caxon wig (or tie wig) Worn for undress and usually Bagwig Queue of wig placed in black silk bag at nape of white Hanger type sword Worn from waist belt and frog. untidy haircut made from net or lace Dundreary Hairstyle with wide whiskers Mentonnieres Frills round inside of bonnet. usually Cod-piece Small bag formed at the fork of men's hose. Glossary Aiglets Metal tags used to join sleeves and hose to Capuchin collar Continuous rolled collar Full-bottomed wig Shoulder length large wig with doublet centre parting and curls framing face Caraco Woman's thigh-length lacket worn with long Aigrettes Standing plume of feathers worn on the head petticoat Furbelow Deep. very wide at shoulder. Spanish Decolletage Low neckline of a lady's dress origin Bongrace Oblong stiffened head piece projecting over Demi-gigot Sleeve full from shoulder to elbow. usually of Escarpins Low-cut flat slippers Negligee Term used by male and female for informal leather dress Falling band collar Collar which lay on shoulders Bustle Pad worn underneath skirt to extend contour of without support Nether stocks Lower stocking portion of hose hips at back Fanchon bonnet Small day-time cap Pagoda sleeve Funnel-shaped sleeve. of condemned victims awaitmg execution by guillotine into square cut edges Gigo( (leg-o'-mutton) Sleeves. neck usually worn under coat Chapeau bras Tiny tricorn hat carried under arm when Baldrick Wide sash of silk or leather. tight trousers Canezou Bodice with high neckline and long sleeves French hood Small bonnet worn at back of head with Pantalettes Separate leg coverings with ruffles that Canions Extensions from trunk hose to knees front border curving round the ears extend below hem of dress Capote Ornate bonnet with ribbon bows tying at sides Frogging Decorative loop fastenings for coat Partlet Type of chemisette or fill in' for low decolletage or front . linen or lace neckerchief bows Merveilleuse Female counterpart of the Incroyable. often of lace. shading Kimono sleeve Wide hanging sleeves. calf-length boot. cambric or muslin covering to worn over waistcoat Basque Very short overskirt sewn on to bodice decolletage Bavolet Short veil attached to back of bonnet. oval shaped breeches fitted Knickerbockers Full. sometimes into knot held with an ornamental pm or bow at back extending to knees Cartwheel ruff Large stiffly starched collar A la titus Cropped supposed to resemble locks hairstyle Callouses Braces (suspenders USA) Castellated Decorative slashings of edges of garments. then forehead Mantua gown Loose unboned bodice gown worn with tight to the wrist Brandenburgs Ornamental fastenings or braided loops open front revealing petticoat and fitted with long train Doublet Bombast jacket usually close fitting and and buttons Medici collar Standing collar round back of neck and waisted Brutus Roman-style. tight from Cadogan Male: hairstyle with two horizontal curled Farthingale or verdingale Structure expanding skirt by shoulder to elbow. frequently covering Muscadin Dandy of 1790s. Female: large bun hoops of bone. covered in silk Fichu Triangular piece of material draped over low set close together neckline Campaign wigs Military type wigs with short side locks Pannier French for the side hoops Fontange Linen cap with tall erections of lace or linen and short queue behind frills supported by wire frame Pantaloons Long. framing Buff coat Sleeveless military coal of ox hide Echelles Stomacher trimmed down front with ribbon face Buffon Gauze. wood etc the back of neck held in place by net or ribbon Pallatine Shoulder wrap for ladies Fedora Velour hat with fairly high tapering crown Calash Large folding hood of whalebone or cane Panes Produced either by slashing or strips of ribbon hoops. then widening to wrist with ruffles rollsabove ears and queue the back. knotted at back. Cornet hat Made of lace. hanging down on either side of face shoulders Spanish origin Betsie Small neck ruff of fine lawn or lace Macaroni Young man dressed in extreme of fashion Coif Bonnet type close fitting cap 1770-80 Bicorne Man's hat turned up at front and back forming Copotain hat Hat with a high conical crown with a points either side Mameluke Full sleeve tied in puffs at intervals from narrow brim shoulder to wrist Bishop sleeve Lady's day sleeve with full shoulder. and worn in various styles as gathered in to wrist cuff Mantelet Shawl worn around shoulders a day cap Bombast Padding and stuffing to distend garments Mantilla Veil taped over head or shoulder. A la madonna Hair parted in middle with ringlets or tapering gradually to wrist Caul Cap of silk or gold thread network.

Fallens Overshoe footwear made of wood and raised Rhinegrave ('Petticoat breeches') In style of divided Sweet gloves Scented Spanish leather gloves by iron stand decorated with ribbon bows skirt Tablier Descending trimmings on gown. loosely knotted. Tricorne A three-cornered hat origin Pinner Lappets of cap being pinned up. fitted with several and female sleeves and gowns Slop hose Wide breeches effected by sailors but civilian capes fashion in I6th and 17th centuries Polonaise Woman's gown with close-fitting bodice and Underpropper Wire structure fixed at back of neck to full skirt. often with long ends hanging Ribbon loops Usually in clusters and on both male and narrow brim down front female costumes Tippet Short shoulder cape. tight jacket Princess line Dress without seam at back Venetian breeches Wide pear-shaped padded hose Steinkirk Long cravat. often fur-trimmed Robings Flat trimmings decorating gown round neck liripipium Pickadils Tabbed or scalloped order on doublet skirts and front of bodice Toque Brimlesscap and as supports for ruff Sabretache Srr embroidered handbag of military . black ribbon worn around the neck. Worn by both sexes Wings Projections over shoulder seams of doublets or Redingote Waisted coat with large collar and revers. separate skirt tying on to the wig Vandyke beard Fashion worn at the lime as painted by Pommander Suspended receptacle for perfume the artist Van Dyck Spencer Short.worn by both sexes TaHela pipkin Small hat with flat crown drawn into Pelerine Stioulder cape. with pulled through lining as decoration Points Ties used to attach male trunk-hose to doublet Ulster coat Double-breasted coat. ends threaded which reached and fastened just below knee Queue Hanging tail of wig through buttonhole or pinned to one side. suggesting Peascod belly Formed by padding front of doublet and Ribbon knots Clusters of various coloured ribbon decorative apron overfianging girdle loops. bodices double breasted with cut-away tails single or Stock Close-fitting wide neckcloth Redingote dress Dress with lapels and front opening on Stuart cap Cap which formed a widow's peak in front skirt and slightly curved at sides . originally a mediaeval Pelisse Cape. waist. later plain cap Trunk hose Extended portion of male leg-wear from with frill Sack gown Loose gown of box pleats sewn into back. joining stockings at fork from neck line to shoulder Plastron False front. simulating blouse or waistcoat Trunk sleeves ('Cannon sleeves') Wide at top becoming Pluderhose German for wide baggy trunk-hose Slashings Symmetrical arrangement of slits in various close-fitting to wrist lengths. worn over support large ruff Solitaire Wide. looped up to form three drapes.

with sports and the new activity of The extravagant styles of this Baroque era were gradually motoring dictating fashion. The female answer was the World War. the of women. Out went the bombast and lightly corseted waists re-emerged. Rhinegraves breeches. Men's clothes became high Fontange of wired upstanding lace or ribbon. which political splendour of her fashion. The of Spanish fashion and by 1625 had completely changed the long sheath and high waist disappeared from women's fashion. more standard in appearance. Rococo underwent a revival with the farthingale and stomacher. In men's clothes there was a trend for more sombreness clothing. it is the general European art originating in France and combined irregularity of impression of fashion which reveals the true sense of the period. The Victorian age saw the first moves towards the emancipation The development of men's fashion was more intriguing. made the fashion prior to the Revolution. limited inevitably by into a train at the back revealing the underskirt. the encrusted jewel design of wealth. The twentieth century brought the belle epoque and the Edwardian Another French influence of this period was the introduction of era. the age of the 'Gibson Girl' then evolving into more sweeping the wig. These were replaced with a higher rebirth of the crinoline. The age Romantics was an era of novelists and poets. but never Following the international upheavals and repercussions of the First reached the splendour of the male wig. form with a lavish freedom of elegant design. the drapery being the confines of a book. In women's clothes came the greatest replaced by a more elegant dignity. a more fascinating period of express changes in style over a period of nearly four centuries. effect. and loose falling skirts with lace or ribbon instead of machine began to make clothes more widely available. The French fashion began. Women's wigs Each country adopted the technical 'know how' of others to express reached fantastic heights. The powerful Spanish Empire. white gowns which became very fashionable and the flimsy In the sixteenth century. it typified the changes initiated around 1910 by Paul Poiret and other designers. A new simplicity of fashion was reflected in the long of fashion. At this time women wore long wig curls. striped trousers. yet nonetheless fascinating in its visual gathered behind on a supporting frame giving the first 'bustle' impact. The excessive trimmings of ribbon loops on the wide in style and new manufacturing methods rapidly gaining ground. draperies. and of the France inaugurated the greatest changes against the artificiality the return of the noble emigre and the Royal Family to Paris. Making its appearance in male change. Empress Josephine led the court in the great basis. The first Rococo era (1760 to 1789) was based upon a style of . silhouette of both male and female. provide a fascinating waistline of women's clothing which remained throughout the and intriguing visual insight on the social and psychological reasons Empire period. an improvement of their own costume. it also had In the Napoleonic era. Introduction In the study and appreciation of costume. English tailoring continued to Spanish presence felt. Although having an effect on French embraced much of Europe. the influence of the Spanish court transparent ones which became universal. based on contemporary sources. ruling classes. with the costume merely the background for perfection. The English dandy functional purpose of the costume to be of little importance. gave the ludicrous effect of petticoats. the New Americas and Africa. it was George 'Beau' Brummell (1778 to 1840) brought the English cut to the decorative effect. With the passing of the Revolution (1789 to 1794) and the The aim of this book is to highlight those points of fashion which beginning of the Directoire (1795). fashion was more than merely that of fashionable trends. In women's fashion the skirt lengthened This is the cavalcade of changing fashion. Also the introduction of the sewing waistline. the 1920's saw the tubular silhouette and a more masculine fashion was the Justaucorps the waistcoat and breeches being the approach to fashion. The stiff silhouette of this fashion caused the influence the development of men's clothing. which became the symbol of the aristocracy. with a greater accent on mobility by casting aside the From about 1840 to 1870. Characteristic of this era was the high illustrations. but the emphasis was still on ornamentation and masculine costumes being generally replaced by more effeminate accessories. fashions changed drastically. precious stones and whalebone. Male fashion sported a wide stiffness of the Spanish style and into fashion came soft folds and range of coats and informally appeared in bright. forerunner of the male suit.

when fastened. fitting towards the back of the head. The small bonnet with a full pleated forepart matching the undersleeves. close-fitting at the top. Although longer than in the jewelled choker' with a pendant hanging to the yoke. c. closed the jacket followed the shape of the doublet. The doublet. The bodice just over the ears on either side. in the Spanish farthingale style. had the down flat on the shoulders. The collar was turned undersleeves. high neck with a Medici collar. The skirt. sleeves and trunk hose were wide opening from the elbow. were decorated with slashings. It was curved forward to end . 1550 The lady is dressed in the English style of the period. it still retained the bulky appearance. the waistline were funnel shaped. then expanding to a being just above the hips. The shoes.1 Lady of quality and Boy. The headwear was the English crown was worn with a bunch of feathers. The undersleeves were trimmed with slashed. The sleeves previous period. and had a shoe shape. revealing patches of the chemise worn underneath. matching the version of the French hood. The embroidered edgings and aiglets which. The high collar was closed by a gold The boy wears the padded doublet. and the back raised into a horse- was tight-fitting with a square yoke of darker colour. made on a stiff base and worn close rest of the outfit.

with the waistline sloping to a deep V-shape point in front. close-fitting gown with a small oblongin shape and worn flat on the head. A slightlyformed in the peascod belly style. The bodice was close-fitting and fairly The man wears a Spanish style with the body of the doublet. Over this was Slashed shoes of soft leather. The sleeves had a welt which surrounded support a ruff. worn the bongrace'. The length of extended a small wrist ruff. but closed-all-round ruff. The close-fitting coif covered the hair. it was made from linen or other suchlike material. The doublet sleeves were close-fitting to the wrist the armhole and formed a small wing effect. This was usually made from stiffened velvet. c. A high-standing collar gored skirt expanded in a funnel shape without folds from the small was edged with a turned down border fashioned in pickadils to tight waist to the ground. and was usually worn open. 1553 The lady iswearing a high-necked. the gown reached just above the knees. silk or velvet were worn. The trunk hose had long slashes and from the shoulder to the wrist.2 English Lady and Spanish Nobleman. 10 . finishing in a tight cuff from which were also ornamented with the fashionable cod-piece. rigid. These sleeves were full ending in short wrist ruffs.

The French full straight sleeves of the bodice. This overgarment was with lappets. waist. when fastened from the neck to quilted velvet. the full. so revealing the dress guimpe or chemise which appeared through the square-shaped beneath. linen and white gauze or worn on formal occasions. which ended in wrist ruffs. sheer V-shape opening from the waist to the hem. c.3 Dutch and English Ladies. The loose. decoUetage. muslin with wire frames. formed a conical shape to the ground. 1557 The lady on the right is wearing a gown. 11 . A distinctive feature of the costume was the full. leaving an inverted sleeves. Fitting sleeves expanded into wide turned-back cuffs. The one-piece gown. worn over the bodied gown had a high neck which was surmounted by a small bodice and skirt. over the bodice and skirt. Broad bands or guards of velvet decorated the the waist. or 'cornet '. elbow length revealed the Short. This was made of lawn. showing the lining of close to the shoulders. gathered skirt falling to the ground. fitted the figure at the waist then overhung the ruff. the gown. The bodice of the gown was open from the neck to the The lady on the left is wearing a Dutch-style hood. The headwear worn was the popular French hood. puffed-out shoulder sleeves to hips.

made like small neck ruffs. The caul. stomach. but usually fastened only at the chest and was corseted. closed-all-round ruff. short. This bodice was close-fitting down points fastened the breeches to the undersurface of the doublet to the waist. The medium-sized ruff. The high-necked collar which had modified trunk sleeves. were usually worn. The bodice of the dress jerkin was tied by points. and was known as a taffeta pipkin'. hanging down almost to the hem. coming down to a deep point in front with the bell. Hand ruffs. The doublet in this Venetian style was padded at the undersleeves of brocaded satin with lace edgings at the cuffs. then allowed to open so as to reveal the doublet beneath. The high-necked doublet had a was surrounded by a medium-sized. the band strings were tied and sleeves were full. c. which were drooping ostrich feathers. The hair was fairly forming wrist ruffs. Stray shaped hoop of Spanish origin. closed all round. This bonnet was worn over a jewelled voluminous with looped borders in pickadils at the knees.4 English Gentleman and Spanish Lady. giving the appearance of a peascod. then expanded over the hips. 12 . and worn over concealed. 1560-72 The lady is wearing a court bonnet decorated with pearls and The gentleman wears Venetian breeches or slops.

and supported a sword on the left side. front from the top of the collar to the waist. The headwear was the very popular 'taffeta the bottom of the trunk hose. The The young gentleman wears a doublet with a high-standing bonnet was trimmed around the edge and decorated with a plume collarand a small ruff above. 1564-9 The young lady is wearing a deep-pointed bodice with a low. close undersleeves. Panes were long pipkin'. It had a standing collar reaching down to similar to the pickadils. The around the waist.5 Young Lady and Gentleman. The doublet was closed down the on one side. with hanging sleeves was possibly made of silk brocade and was The border of the neckline and down the front of the op>en shirt was lined and edged with fur. Around the high neck was worn a small ruff. c. The cloak short. The deep crown was pleated onto a head band. The pumps had rounded toes and were closed at the ankles. The tailored stockings were quite plain. by a row of small 13 . A narrow belt and sling was worn square neckline. which were paned. puffed-out sleeves were worn over long. The hat was decorated with ostrich tips and at the waist and at the ends. Short perfumed gloves were carried. aigrettes. the brim thin strips of material which ran parallel and were joined to the hose was flat and narrow. buttons fairly close together.

usually long with decorative metal knobs. Walking jerkin which buttoned down the front from the high collar to the sticks of wood. The gown which matched the short. The tailored stockings were Sometimes a narrow girdle fastened the gown at the waist. Shoes were made in sleeves were close-fitting to the wrist and finished with a deep. fine leather The gentleman wears a close-fitting. The cloak was sleeveless and had a standing collar with rounded corners. silk. then hung down in stiff folds to the ground. slashed often carried. The exposed sleeves of 14 . The long skirt expanded over the bombasted. e^ <4 6 Spanish Nobleman and Lady. leaving the forehead uncovered. The turned-back cuff of lace. and was tied in front. hung down just below the trunk hose. sleeveless gloves with a contrasting colour at the wrists were worn. deep-waisted. The cut on the cross and called nether-stocks. brocade and velvet. were waistline. Short. trunk hose and reached just below the fork. neck ruff. c. 1565 The lady illustrated wears gown which fitted the a loose-bodied the doublet were close-fitting and finished at the wrists with ruffs shoulders. various materials such as leather. A reticulated caul was worn which court bonnet was made in velvet or cloth and trimmed with covered the back of the head. jewelled ornaments and a small feather plume.

7 Spanish Princess in a farthingale, c. 1571
The illustration shows a Spanish-style gown, an over-garment for kirtle'.The gown had a standing collar, tied or buttoned in front.
warmth and formal occasions, which was worn over the bodice and Long sham hanging sleeves, brocaded and silk lined, fastened at just
skirt. The close-bodied gown fitted the figure to the waist then below elbow level by ribbon and jewelled points. A large opening
extended over the hips. Fitting close to the shoulders it fell spreading then revealed the undersleeve of the undergarment made of batiste
outwards to the ground, leaving an inverted V-shaped opening in with lace ribbon loops. A small ruff was attached to the high collar
front from the waist to the hem. The Spanish farthingale, or of the chemise. The lady wore the small Mary Stuart hood-type of
verdingale, was an underskirt distended by circular hoops, each head-dress made of lawn or similar material and trimmed with lace
hoop increasing in circumference finally forming a wide circle at the and jewellery. Gloves were worn, made of scented leather; and
feet, so producing a funnel shape. This farthingale skirt was gored called sweet gloves'. A handkerchief of lawn, trimmed with lace
so that it sloped stiffly outwards from the waist to the ground, was carried.
making a smooth flat surface without folds, and was called a round

15

8 Fashionable German Lady and Gentleman, c. 1580
This German style worn by the lady, was a variation of the gown The collar was high at the back, curving out slightly in front. A
overgarment which was worn over the bodice and skirt. The front small closed ruff was also worn. The full-padded trunk sleeves
was open in an inverted V-shape from neck to hem. The gown was finished with a narrow hand ruff. The sleeves were slashed. The
untrained, and the standing collar with rounded edges was left doublet was fastened by a close row of buttons from the top of the
open. A small, closed frill was attached to the high collar of the collar to the waist. The plain skirt was very short and narrow, little
bodice of the undergarment. Narrow, wrist frills were attached to more than a border. The front edges were cut to form a small
the close-fitting, long undergarment sleeves. The reticulated caul inverted V-shape. The trunk hose sloped outwards from the waist,
was lined with silk and was worn covering the back of the head. and were decorated with panes — gay coloured linings drawn
The gentleman wears a close-fitting doublet which was worn through gaps. The shoes were bluntly pointed, without heels. The
over the skirt. The body of the doublet was padded and stiffened. cloak worn was hip length and had a standing collar.

16

9 Going to the Ball - German style, c. 1580
At this period, Spanish ladies' fashions were introduced into The gentleman wears the 'copotain' type of headwear which had
Germany, the underdress had a long close-fitting bodice of a quilted a conical-shaped, high crown and a narrow brim ornamented with
material. The overdress fitted only at the shoulders and gradually ostrich feather tips. The bombasted doublet, pointed in the front,
increased in width downwards. The gown was open down the was fastened down the centre with a single row of buttons. The
front. The sleeves were the long, tubular type of hanging sleeve cloak, which ended just below the had a turned-down collar.
waist,
joined at the elbow. The gown was decorated with broad guards or The trunk hose were short and pumpkin-shaped, and bombasted
bands of braid. Cartwheel ruffs of large dimensions were now in with padding to give fullness. The shoes were full to the ankle and
fashion. These ruffs were made of linen, and were starched and were slashed in the fashionable mode.
ironed for stiffness. The headwear worn was a coif — a one-piece
hat with a seam along the top. A fan was carried.

17

The sleeves were close-fitting to the wrist. pumpkins and reached down to about mid-thigh. then expanded over sleeves to the doublet. bodice were revealed under the huge hanging sleeves. 18 . and Nobleman. The lace ruff was were tailored to individual requirements. ending in small wrist Full trunk-type sleeves with large. The gown On the shoulders were narrow wings covering the joins of the fitted the shoulders and the figure to the waist. The hat was tall with a flat top and a narrow curled folding fan was carried. c. Like the doublet. jewel encrusted. hip-length both starched and wired. 1590 The gentleman wears the high-necked. The doublet was slashed. laced wrist cuffs of the under- ruffs. The stockings Above the hanging sleeves were shoulder wings. long stomacher-front dipped to a point. The trunk hose were shaped like padded the hips and fell stiffly to the ground forming a large funnel shape. bonnbasted doublet of the brim. decorated with a narrow jewelled hat band and a feather. The brocade gown was heavily cloak was collarless. heavy.10 Spanish Lady in jewelled gown. The short. The and had a centre fastening with buttons from the neck to the waist. pinked and embroidered The lady wears the corseted bodice with a deep point. Spanish style. A the doublet. designed to fit the shoulders and flare out over embroidered and ornamented with encrustations of jewels. the sleeves were also slashed and pinked.

and then finished off with a lace turned-back a tight waistband then expanded outwards and downwards. were slightly padded. Rising from either side of the braid. A caul or small round hat was worn at the back of the head decorated with large shoe roses. of the cannon type. 1614 The young lady wears the French wheel farthingale. The boy wears the longer waisted doublet which fitted close to gathered. and a point plain and close-fitting. c. The low decoUetage had a lace border across the shoulder and combined two materials of velvet stripes and panne velvet with ended in a V-shape at the front. then ending with a turn-back lace cuff. the body. The fully. The shoes were round-toed. tub-shaped skirt was worn over this farthingale structure. Here sword belthung around the waist. The doublet was and fell vertically to the ground in stiff folds. 19 . The sleeves were close fitting to the body with a low. */ % 11 Young Prince and Princess. They cuff. The stockings were decorated just below the knees with decoUetage a fan-shaped ruff spread out round the back of the sashes and ribbon rosettes. fastening at the wrists by a row of buttons. It had a narrow tabbed pointed skirt.A highly-decorated narrow had a 'kick-up' at the shoulders and narrowed to the wrists. The trunk hose were attached to they were fastened. The sleeves. at the waist. and head. and a folding fan was carried. The dress bodice was fastened down the front by a close row of buttons. rounded neckline.

It was an The gentleman wears The doublet had a a close-fitting doublet. In this plate an armoured gorget surrounds the neck. 1616 The lady wore a high-waisted embroidered jacket. 20 . c. The hair was brushed-up high on the trimmed. The The sleeves were straight and close-fitting with wings at the high neckline was round. a broad wing consisted of a standing band made of a transparent material edged covered the join between the sleeve and shoulder. The neckwear ruff of lace. and filled in with a small neck shoulders and ended in turn-back lace cuffs. the back hair was hidden by huge roses. braided and lace worn without a farthingale. the waist in a basque. the ties being forehead and temples. The round-toed shoes tied at the front. ending in a straight line around the hips. The sleeves were tight-fitting to the wrist. The stockings were transparent aprons. and embroidered designs reached almost to the knees. it was whole costume was heavily embroidered. This plate shows a heavily embroidered skirt tailored. An embroidered with lace. collarless. The which gathered at the waist and fell vertically to the ground. concealed by a caul. The jacket of this type was often worn with loose open gowns and trunk hose were large and heavily padded.v-: ^r^^ ^ 12 English fashions. .. unpadded type of bodice which was close-fitting and flared from high-standing collar and was buttoned in front down to the waist. then laid over roll pads.

knee guards. An underpropper caused the sword. arms. The breast of right shoulder to the left hand side. Across the body. 1625 The gentleman on the right wears a high-waisted.13 A Gentleman in armour and a fashionable Gentleman. From the waist of the breastplate to the knees trunk hose were paned and were worn with stockings. turning pins. The cuirassier's armour'. was a broad lace-decorated the doublet was paned. Pauldrons and vambraces. The projecting winged sleeves. The knees were Around his neck he wore a falling band — a wide lace collar which protected by specially made genouillieres. from the the waist by a close row of buttons down the front. Breeches were worn stuffed into the top of the boots. armour pieces for the The military gentleman on the left wears a full suit of armour. were joined into one movable piece. were decorated with a ribbon tie. made up from many lames. loose-fitting spread horizontally across the shoulders. The armour of this period was usually described as semi-circular collar to stand upround the back of the head. From a waist belt and slings hung the ended in a deep turn-back cuff of lace. The lace cuffs were turned doublet. Over the arm was carried a The lower thigh armour was attached to the breastplate by straps or draped cloak. The close-fitting lower part of the sleeves boots were fitted with spurs. The shoes were worn long tassets or thigh pieces. c. as was the upper part of the broad baldrick. 21 . The doublet was fastened from the high-standing collar to back over the armour-covered sleeves.

The upper part of the broad. and in a leather type frog a sword was carried. fastened from the high neck to the waist with a close row of The young boy wears the same style of clothes as his elders. At mid-thigh the hose were turned sleeves were paned. and from this wide base came close-fitting cannions. Across the body was worn the broad garters with rosettes were tied just below the knees. A tall hat shoes with ribbon ties were worn. Open-sided baldrick. Large sash worn. winged in folds from a tight waist band. fastened by ribbon ties. The buttons. c. At the waist were ribbon points which attached projecting wing. The trunk hose sloped downwards and outwards the trunk hose to the doublet. the upper arms were paned and finished with a down the centre.14 German Soldier and Boy. The turned-back lace cuffs. 1628 The German soldier wears the high-waisted doublet which was with a wide brim ornamented with feathers was worn. The lower arms had short turn- close-fitting sleeves of the doublet was fastened from neck to waist with a close row of buttons back cuffs. 22 . The trunk hose were closely gathered at the cannions were worn over long stockings. Shoes with low heels were waist and fell in folds ending just above the knees. and the tight-fitting lower sleeves ended in in.

bag' breeches worn by the boy were gathered at the waist and fell to fastening at the waist with a ribboned rosette and four narrow just below the knees. It was open. c. The open-sided shoes with ribbon rosette ties sashes across the stomacher. The doublet was The lady wears the new style of costume. The cloak shoulders and falling in spreading folds to the ground.15 Lady in black. The tight-fitting bodice fastened by a row of buttons. fitting the falling band collar as were the band strings of the ruff. A fan-shaped standing band collar breast of the doublet was paned as were the upper winged sleeves encircled the low decoUetage with lace strips bordering the neckline. The a stomacher laced across. gown were slashed and fastened with a large ribboned rosette. to the waist was stiff and boned. and Boy. The high neck of the doublet was concealed by the cuffs with vandyked lace borders.1628 The boy wears a doublet with a deep skirt. The gown was loose. It was fastened down the front and while the two pointed tabs at the front came edge to edge. and the lower closer-fitting sleeves which ended with a turn-back The bodice sleeves were finished with broad splayed turned-back cuff of lace. 23 . The large elbow-length sleeves of the were still popular. The skirt overlapped at the sides.

meeting edge to edge. The doublet was fastened from skirts to hip level. The neckline was V-shaped. 24 . The high-crowned hat was cocked at the front and each other. From mid-thigh to just below the knee were attached the bows on the outside of the leg. The full baggy pluderhose were gathered at the waist and fell hose were gathered in at the waist.16 German Soldier Musicians. the two front tabs coming deeper in the front and decorated with a hat band and feathers. turned-back from the right shoulder to the left hip was a baldrick. falling into folds and finishing at in folds to the knees. 1628 The on the left wears the close-fitting doublet which was long- fifer of braid and buttons. The shoes were decorated with large ribbon waisted and stiffened with buckram. c. On the outside seam of the hose was a broad decoration knots. The jerkin was fastened from the rounded neck to waist with a row of close buttons. Around the body sleeves were attached to the wings. The winged sleeves were neckline to the hem with a centre row of buttons. and ended in short. The slashed finished with a short turned-back cuff of linen. The shoes were fastened with ribbon cannions. The skirt of tabs overlapped rosettes. where they finished with ribbon garters and mid-thigh. The trunk cuffs. fifer and drummer. and from this The drummer wears a sleeveless jerkin which had deep-squared emerged a golillia or standing band.

but at the shoulders shape of the understructure of the Spanish farthingale and was large jewelled buttons. wears the stiff. The neckline of the unusual fox fur ruff worn in place of the more formal linen doublet sloped to a V-shape in the front. but without 25 . and was fastened down the material. The deep skirt beautiful costume of this out-moded fashion. The doublet was without padded. Jewelled decorated with broad guards of gold braid down the centre and necklaces and brooches were worn. after a painting by Velasquez. slightly front by a series of large jewelled buttons. The skirt followed the were broad wings also decorated with sleeves. the standing collar was concealed by the down to a deep rounded sweep in the front. The sleeves were close-fitting to the wrists. The high-necked of the doublet flared out from the waist over the hips and curved bodice was tight-fitting. 1630 The lady. these wings hung immense hanging From gored at the waist making it slope stiffly outwards.17 Velasquez's Spanish Lady. and a large handkerchief of around the hem. c. It was heavily sleeves which were edged in wide guards of gold braid. The close-fitting doublet or waistcoat was similar lawn trimmed with lace was carried. to that of the male doublet of the earlier period. heavy but padding and came to a deep rounded point in front. and had a turned-back cuff of lace.

The breeches were the full oval type and fastened below The hat was worn over a coif. The sleeves were straight and fairly close-fitting. broad leather shoulder belt which supported the sword. Also worn were high boot hose which were folded over The military gentleman wore the leather jerkin. flaring out slightly with the aid of gussets. Over this was a broad laced falling band which lace borders. The waist was encircled a broad silk baldrick tied with a large bow at cavalier' type hat had a moderately high crown with a wide brim. The jerkin had a leather boots. The skirt was full and gathered. of buttons from neck to hem-line. similar to that worn by the turned-down collar and fastened down the centre with a close row lady. the knees. Around the fitting to the waist. They finished lawn. The doublet was close. 1630 The lady wears the high-necked pleated bodice with a closed ruff of were left open to reveal the chemise sleeves beneath. The front seams of the sleeves 26 . it fell in folds to the spread from shoulder to shoulder. the side. The bodice with turned-back cuffs of lawn which were concealed by leather sleeves had deep lawn cuffs turned back from the wrist with wide gauntlet gloves. A cavalier' hat was worn. Across the body was slung the ground and was worn without a farthingale. c.18 German Officer and Lady in riding habit.

c.19 Lady and Gentleman going to a wedding. The sleeves of the bodice were with band strings which were allowed to hang down. A narrow ribbon sash encircled the waistline and sloped down and spread from shoulder to shoulder and was tied finished in a large bow in front. slightly jerkin or waistcoat replacing the doublet. The decoUetage was cut low and neckline of the jerkinwas hidden by the large falling band which round in front. The the doublet of the male dress. similar to the seam revealing the full sleeves of the chemise or shirt. The breeches were decorated down large hand ruffs. At the moderately full. gathered skirt. The sleeves were open at cocked on one side. 1630 The lady is wearing a basqued bodice. long-legged breeches fell to just below the knees wrists the sleeves were gathered in by draw-strings and ended in and fastened with ribbon loops. The ballooned and paned. The large 'cavalier' type hat. the butterfly' spur leathers. Short leather boots with tops of soft leather were ornamented with The gentleman depicts the advent of the cavalier fashion. which was tabbed. was trimmed with a hat band and feathers. both above and below the elbows. The fitted bodice gown was joined to a full the outside seams and halfway down the front with brandenburgs. 27 .

Surrounding the stiff bodice had a low decolletage edged with lace strips. A spreading fan high neck was a stand-fall ruff which completely concealed the neck collar surrounded the neck. Long-legged shoulders.and was almost without stiffening. the silk stockings. The soft leather boots had their tops turned down to reveal the waist was worn a narrow ribbon cord. the doublet was now high-waisted.where they were fringed with ribbon seam. For the male. c. The stomacher was stiffened and boned were more imposing than previously. meeting edge to edge. then finished off with a turned. not quite so 28 . The deeply pointed in front. which were open down the front breeches were full to the knee.20 Lady and Gentlemen in Court dress. to a deep point in the front. then close-fitting to the wrists. Decorative skirtand was open down the front. Around loops. The neckline was low on the gauntlet gloves concealed the turned-back lace cuffs. The gown had a fitted bodice joined to a full gathered and paned to the elbow. the full linen or silk shirt beneath. or skirts. The tabs. The straight sleeves. were tied by a ribbon bow at the bend of the elbow. Above the wrists the sleeves were line. revealing pulled in by a running draw-string. The winged sleeves were wide back cuff. The two front tabs were and fastened down the front by a row of close set buttons. 1630 The lady is wearing a tight-fitting bodice with a stomacher coming close-fitting. The doublet was paned at the chest front and back.

The closed full skirt was gathered at the waist. this being concealed by a position. The crown. c. The hair was decorated with garters. then allowed The loose breeches reached to the knees and were tied with ribbon to fall naturally in folds to the ground. a very broad brim and was usually worn in a cocked rounded neckline was without a collar. The in the vandyke style. A sleeve of soft material was sewn on under the narrow loosely to allow the full frill of the chemise to emerge at elbow welt wing. soft leather boots. Encircling the waistwas a wide silk baldrick sash The cavalier gentleman wears a sleeveless buff coat often called tied in a huge bow on the left hip. high-waisted and waist belt and frog. The sword was carried from a a leather jerkin. then drawn in and loops. The bodice was high-waisted. The boot-hose had which showed above the high lace tops jewels. This collar was made of point lace. length. The 'cavalier' style hat had a moderately high had a deep skirt reaching down to just below hip length. 29 . The sleeves ended with a point lace similar to the collar. This coat was fairly close-fitting.21 Cavalier Officer and Lady. 1630 The French style decoUetage was trimmed with a lace collar and cut falling band type collar. The sleeves coat fastened from the neck to the waist by a close row of buttons were short and very full to just above the elbows.

round the back of the neck. The outside seams of the trunk hose were decorated with was worn over the shoulders like a shawl and fastened in the front buttons and loops. with flasks. c. He also carried a coil of slow-burning match'. The bodice was close-fitting and high-waisted with were sewn under the wings on the shoulders. and keys or 'spanners' for the matchlock gun. 1633 The country woman's clothes were an attempt to keep up with the The musketeer wears the hip-length sleeveless buff jerkin. The bodice was open in front and pulled together by of these sleeves were hidden under short gauntlet gloves. these were wooden. They were secured by matchlock barrel. A stomacher was pinned to the front. A plain pluderhose type breeches fell in irregular folds to just below the neckerchief — a large square of fine material folded diagonally — knees. A coif or day cap was worn over the hair and was carried from the left shoulder across the body to the right hip. High shoes were worn. folds to the ground. A bandolier. Close- trend of the day. The full means of lacing. 30 . charges. Pattens were worn. the cuffs fitting sleeves a basque. A straps and worn with ordinary shoes.22 Musketeer and country Girl in pattens. This musketeer carried a wooden rest to support the heavy soled overshoes raised up on iron rings. at the throat. high-crowned hat with a wide brim decorated with feathers. The full skirt was gathered at the waist and fell in bullet bag.

Attached to the wings were the fastening of the jerkin was from the neck to the waist by close tubular hanging sleeves of leather and softer material sleeves. Close-fitting sleeves of a softer material were knees. close- lacing. The loose winged sleeves fitting to the wrists. extended well above the wrists. Long soft leather boots were worn. had a high waistline and a deep skirt overlapping in jerkin was There was no collar but the neckline loose-fitting. High boots of soft leather were worn as was a tall-crowned hat of soft leather or material. The breeches were fastened just below the were worn hanging. The jerkin was without a collar and came to a small V-shape opened in a small V-shape and was filled by a falling band collar of at the neck. gathered at the waist and closed just below the leather were worn in the adult style. Plain gauntlet gloves of soft breeches style. The leather the body.23 Nobleman and Boy in hunting attire. The lawn. usually lace decorated. The trunk hose were in the 'cloak bag' a peak was worn at a slight angle. This was filled in by a falling band collar of lawn. c. 1635 The nobleman is wearing a leather jerkin which was close-fitting to The little boy dressed in similar clothes to the adults. 31 . front. A narrow belt encircled the waist. knees. A low-crowned hat with attached under the wings.

c. A narrow Vandykes. The long-legged at the elbows. 1635 The bodice of the new styles for women was high-waisted.24 English Earl and Lady in Court dress. close-fitting doublet which was with a basque. but left loose enough to breeches were decorations of loops of braid and buttons. low-heeled shoes. A large loosely gathered at the waist and fell to the ground in folds. The closed skirt was stockings were worn with open-sided. The buttons. cloak was draped around the figure. worn The man wears the embroidered. Silk allow the frilled undersleeve to come through. high-waisted and had deep-skirted tabs. The bodice had a low decolletage with a broad lace. or breeches ended just below the knees. The fastening was from neck to waist by a centre row of ribbon sash followed the waistline and tied in a spreading bow. At the elbows they were gathered on to a band. The doublet had a standing edged bertha — a wide which came from the edges of lingerie collar collar which was concealed by a falling band collar of lawn and lace the decolletage over the shoulders and around the back. Down the outside seam of the sometimes drawn with a running string. The sleeves had a longitudinal slash on the front seam sleeves were full to the elbow with close pleats at the shoulders and which revealed the full lawn chemise sleeve below. 32 .

The chemise bordered the decolletage. The front and high at the encircled the bust and partially bared back. and decorated with ribbon. The sleeves were full with ended with a deep turned-back cuff of lace which was vandyked. tapering down to just above the wrists and fastening of the bodice was at the back. 1640 The lady is wearing a high-waisted bodice which was close-fitting The little girl was dressed in a similar style. The bodice was high- and stiffened with whalebone. the shoulders. The just below The skirt was gathered at the waist and allowed to fall in vertical elbow-length sleeves of the chemise with their frilly ends emerged folds to the ground. A narrow jewelled belt encircled much the same way as adults. Jewellery was worn by children in hung in loose folds to the ground. The full skirt was gathered at the waist and lady. It square decolletage was cut low in the front and high at the back. c. a wide lace-edged opening just above the elbow. the waistline. being stiffened with whalebone. The lace of the The sleeves were full. 33 . The hair was in the same style as that of the below the bodice sleeve. The decolletage was cut low in the waisted and close-fitting.25 Countess and Child.

ending in a turn-back cuff which was edged full and puffed to the wrist in the 'bishop' style.The bodice was paned and fastened high-waisted with a low decoUetage and a chemisette fill-in. A wired day- medium-sized fur muff was carried by the more wealthy merchants' cap was worn which was placed over the back of the head and wives.The undersleeves were close-fitting neck was encircled with a large ruff. and finished with a with lace and vandyked. The hat was worn over a white coif or under-cap. The sleeves were and long to the wrist. The down the centre of the front. around the back of the neck. The cap was not tied under the chin.26 Merchants' Wives. was a closed cartwheel ruff worn mainly by married women. oval in shape. c. The The sugarloaf hat had a high crown which sloped to a narrow closed skirt was gathered loosely at the waist. falling in irregular flat top. bodice. A plain white apron was worn. Around the high neckline of the bodice deep turn-back cuff with a lace edge. 1640 The English lady on the left wore the close-fitting bodice which was covered the shoulder joins.The short sleeves of the bodice were castellated and just 34 . A folds to the ground. The Dutch fashion for middle-class ladies favoured the basqued but was attached to the hair by a pinner. English and Dutch fashions.

and the coat was fastened from the neck to the From the small projecting wings hung the sleeves which were full hem with buttons down the centre of the front. voluminous overlapping slightly in the front. The neck was encircled by a broad falling band of vandyke- popular and were mainly worn by ladies. topped with the fine lace turn-down attached to a waist girdle. Around the neckline was a small. On her face the lady and paned from the shoulder to the elbow. breast front and the back had vertical panes down to waist level. The skirts flared out to mid-thigh. turned-down collar. 35 .27 Lady in 'chaperone' and mask. in the she wore the chaperone'. then close-fitting to the wore a half-mask ending just below the nose. The long-legged breeches. A large feather fan with edged lace. Over her dress she wore the long. A fairly large fur muff was carried either of the boot hose. were worn a decorative handle and a mirror was carried on a ribbon cord with high boots of fine leather. round. Masks were very wrist. with Nobleman. cassock' or overcoat. Deep framed the face. 1640 The lady is wearing an informal out-of-doors costume. high-waisted doublet. c. On her head hand or on a cord from around the neck. or Spanish hose. a soft hood which covered the head and The man wears the close-fitting.

stripes of braid and buttons. like the male doublet. and quite often at the The neckline formed a low decolletage in front but was cut higher sides. or Spanish hose as back cuff.28 Country Gentleman and his Wife. the a broad lace falling-band collar. at the back in a square shape. was tabbed. stretched from the waist to below the knee. often trimmed with lace or braid in lace was worn with a large. The neckline of the coat was concealed under coat' sleeve was double. basque. The skirt was gathered loosely at the waist. like the jerkin. the upper sleeve finishing at the elbow. 1640 The lady is dressed in the high-waisted. it was slit at the back. The plain stomacher was pinned to the front borders. were decorated with braid and lace. Hanging from the coat wings were close-fitting sleeves. The The gentleman wears the ornamental leather jerkin or buff coat. The broad bertha of deeply bordered usually of a soft cloth material. The full breeches. reaching hip length. basqued bodice. and fell in they were known. the tabs being squared The coat was close-fitting with a high waistline and a deep skirt and deep. The longitudinal stripes. lace-edged neckerchief. The irregular vertical folds to the ground. breeches. square. 36 . The coat was decorated overall in lower sleeve close-fitting and ending at the wrist with a lace turned. c.

The skirt was gathered at the waist and fell in folds to the with side openings. 37 . pleated into a waist band fell to just below the knees. A wide- ground. breast and at the back. where they the sleeve beneath coming lower and ending in a turned-back lace were closed by a ribbon sash. lace-bordered collar. A deep. encircled with a broad lace falling band. The coat sleeve was double. The worn draped over the body. It was paned down the in front with a higher cut square back. The neck was surrounded the decoUetage and ended just in front of the shoulders. 1641 The young girl wears a short-waisted bodice fastened at the front. had large ribbon bows as fastenings. c. Silk stockings were worn.29 Children of a Royal Family. decorative hat band was fashionable. loose-fitting doublet. The bodice had a low square decoUetage neck to waist by a row of close buttons. The long-legged breeches. the over-sleeve ending at the elbow. neckline had a short standing collar. matching the sleeve fashion. cuff. The doublet was fastened from either by lacing or clasps. A narrow ribbon girdle followed the contours of the brimmed hat with a moderately high conical crown and a waistline and was tied into a spreading bow on the side. The shoes. The French type of cloak was The boy wears the high-waisted.

fastened at the back by a series of clasps. with a turned-back cuff finished with lace. The neck was encircled with a bertha type collar. The sleeves back. The neckline neck had a low decoUetage in front but was cut much higher at the of the low decoUetage was encircled by a broad bertha. The bodice consisted of an epaulette. 1643 The lady on the left is wearing a spring or early summer fashion. it was worn without a The lady on the right is dressed in a high summer fashion of the stomacher but had a chemisette fill-in which was laced across. The period. The sleeved bodices. c. an oversleeve. Long had a turned-down narrow lace edging in front. an oversleeve or coat' sleeve and an casual way toshow the full elegance and beautiful material of the undersleeve which came a little lower than elbow length and ended underskirt. The moderately full skirt The high-waisted bodice was made with a basque.30 Ladies in summer fashions. 38 . The bodice was high-waisted with a basque. and an undersleeve. Over the head and face was a plain gauze veil. The bodice was was gathered in at the waist and fell in folds to the ground. Over this was a elbow-length gloves were close-fitting and always worn with short- lace-edged square neckerchief which was folded corner-wise. The full skirt was frequently bunched up in a sleeves were in two parts.

c. 1643 The English Lady on the left wears a bodice with the low and shoulders. gathered at the waist and allowed to fall shaped stomacher. ending just upper part of the face only. The The lady on tl\e right wears a high-waisted bodice with a deep V- skirt was moderately full. The neckline trimming was the closed cartwheel to the ground in irregular vertical folds. and a Dutch Lady. On the face is shown a half-mask of black velvet covering the neckerchief. full skirt was gathered into the waist and fell in folds to the ground. The sleeves were reasonably close-fitting. or 'chaperone'. hood. often silken lined and The close-fitting sleeves came to just below elbow length and ended worn only for outdoors.31 English Lady in furs and mask. A deep fur stole was worn around the neck with deep turned-back lace cuffs. often open behind. The It was hitched up to about knee level and revealed the underskirt. The heavy underskirt were sometimes bunched up in a variety of ways. was of a soft material. Both the skirt and the ruff which tilted up at the back and down in the front. and a matching large fur muff was carried in the decoUetage covered by both a broad bertha collar and a hand. 39 . above the wrists with a turned-back cuff. exposing the more delicate silken fabric of the under-petticoat.

Over the head was a soft hood or 'chaperone'. A large square neckerchief. at the waist. and elbow. The moderately full skirt was gathered in day-cap was worn and arranged to frame the face. Over the bodice was worn an apron with a bib. coming to a slight point in front. as depicted by Over the front of the skirt was an elegant white linen apron with a Wenceslaus Hollar. often slightly trained. A full sleevefell to the elbow beneath. cut in the off-the-shoulder style. was worn over the shoulders and decoUetage.32 Autumnal fashions of a Lady and Child. Close-fitting elbow- the ground. c. lace border. 1650 The girl's bodice was short waisted. The full skirt was gathered at the waist and fell in folds to and finished in a deep turned-back cuff of lace. and fell ground. The bodice was tight-fitting to the waist. in folds to the The lady is wearing an autumn fashion. with a broad by a bertha collar. The sleeve was full and ended just below the border of lace. and encircled front by a frill of lace. it was draped by a broad lace bertha and edged in the decoUetage in front. The decoUetage was low and cut 40 . with the neck forming a low horizontally. The front seam was open revealing the brocaded lining fastened at the throat by a brooch. A laced length gloves were worn.

and 41 . 1659 The young lady wears the same basic costume that had been end at the wrist with a turned-back lace cuff. The sleeves were fashionable for almost fifty years. This low decolletage exposed down to the ground. In the the person wearing the costume. but very wide at back. permit the full frilled sleeve of the chemise to come through. The close-fitting bodice. and fell to the ground in rather stiff folds. The low. the bottom hoop being as wide as the height of the shoulders and the back. It was decorated with elbow. being flattish in the front and back. horizontal and boat shaped. It expanded abruptly out from the waist and continued encircled with a deep bertha collar. concealed by the stiff basque. c. was the sides.33 A young Spanish Princess. The hair style always fastened on with a jewelled brooch. revealing the sleeves of the chemise. round neckline. which tilted down in the front and up at the shaped hoops. was now made of oval- Spanish farthingale. paned. was joined to the stiff basque of the structure. The sleeves were full to the followed the silhouette of the dress itself. but came high over the bust. The farthingale moderately long-fronted. then gathered onto a band which was loose enough to hanging plumes. The skirt fitted over the structure centre of the front of the bertha was a large ribboned rosette.

the neckline was edged with the lace of were trimmings of ribbon loops. It was to the shoulder to shoulder. The knee-length open breeches were often slightly trained. The collar was square-ended and spread from waist. The front was open to reveal the underskirt decorated with ribbon loops on the lower part of the outside seam. The The gentleman of fashion continued to wear the short unstiffened decoUetage was cut low. 1660 The lady wore the close-fitting busked and boned bodice. 42 . were merely a narrow tabbed edging under which Its skirts sloping off the shoulders. The was gathered into small pleats at the full skirt edge to edge. The sleeves were full with the front the chemise. the two front edges meeting balloon-shaped. then allowed to fall ground in vertical folds. usually of a contrasting material. below the knee. The high stiff neck-band was concealed by a falling band encircled the decoUetage. horizontally surrounding the bust and doublet. The sleeve was full and moderately which was deep and shaped like a bib. sometimes a little Stirrup hose had large tops which were turned down and spread out shorter than the overskirt. The deep broad lace bertha was boat-shaped and seam slit. or petticoat.34 Dutch Nobleman and his Wife. c.

The neck was the crown being conical in shape. 1665 This fashionable Dutch gentleman of c. and over these a pair of stirrup hose which into small pleats at the waist and fell in irregular folds. down the centre front with a row of close buttons. 43 . without sleeves was worn the short skimpy doublet. or 'rhinegraves'. The full cloak. had very large wide legs pleated on to sleeves were drawn in at the elbows from which emerged the full a waist band. Shoes were square-toed. baggy pantaloons. The petticoat breeches known as low cut and encircled by a large velvet collar. with the front seam slit. He wore had high square heels. sleeves of the chemise with frill. The decoUetage was just below the elbows. a large bib.35 Dutch Gentleman in petticoat breeches with Lady. narrowing to a flat top. The full. The tall 'sugar-loaf hat was the most popular. open-sided and breeches costume shows this extreme fashion at its best.The sleeves. c. The full skirt was closely gathered Stockings were worn. then falling to the knee in heavy vertical folds. It had a stiff standing collar and buttoned over both shoulders. encircled by a falling band which stretched from shoulder to This Dutch lady wears a silk or satin costume with the close shoulder. 1665 wearing the petticoat had a large decorative top. finished fitting bodice coming to a deep point in front.

and left open to reveal the full the hair. A train was which. c. The hair style was called a coiffure a la ninon. because of the long waist. fairly short or in a rounded shape which encircled the decolletage and bared the called confidants. Lace and ribbon bands and bows decorated The sleeves were full to the elbow. bunched on each side. It was usually open in costume. 44 . Shawls or creating a slimmer look. The decolletage was edged by the lace of the chemisette. boned bodice front and caught up over an underskirt or petticoat. dipped to a deep point in front. The neckline was low cut sides were cut pushed back off the face. 1668 The female costume of this period was quite simple in contrast to frilled sleeves of the chemisette. present. The corset and bodice were laced at the back. with curls. both on the overskirt and on the underskirt. both decolletage. The feminine gown had a close-fitting. The bodice was worn with a close-fitting scarves were very common and were often worn with a low corset which was high under the arms and over the bosom.36 Fashionable Lady in evening dress. The full skirt was gathered in pleats the fashions of the males with their absurd petticoat breeches at the waistand hung in folds to the ground. shoulders in ringlets. then falling to the shoulders.

37 Officer in 'bucket boots', with a Lady,c. 1675

Tight lacing became the main feature of female costume in Europe folds.The open front revealed the petticoat of silks and satins.
at this time. The bodice sloped to a deep point in front. The low This French officer c. 1675, wears a slightly waisted justaucorps.
decolletage was cut more or less horizontally. A bertha collar, The justaucorps was made of heavy cloth and decorated with a
sometimes called a 'falling whisk', completely enveloped the low close row of buttons and button-holes. The pockets were placed
neckline. Short tabs were often seen encircling the deep-pointed low in the front in a vertical design while the sleeves were straight
waistline and expanding over the hips. The short sleeve finished just and close-fitting. Around the neck was a cravat. From the right
above the elbow and was joined to the sloping shoulders of the shoulder hung a broad leather baldrick from which hung the sword
bodice. The frilled, full sleeve of the chemise fell from the outer at the left hip. Full wide breeches fell to the knees and large, high

sleeve to just below elbow level. The full open skirt was gathered at military boots were worn. Wigs were becoming very fashionable
the waist in small pleats, then allowed to fall to the ground in loose with hair shoulder length. The hat had a wide cocked brim.

45

38 French Farmer and Milkmaid in country costume, c. 1678
The French farmer wore the vest and justaucorps which hung to just The French country girl's bodice was long-waisted, close-fitting
above the knees. The coat was fastened from the neckhne to the and boned, and came to a deep point in front. The decolletage was
waist by a close row of buttons. The pockets were set low and low cut, but was completely covered by a linen chemise with a neck
horizontally and had button and button-hole decoration. The frill. The full-length sleeves ended in turned-back cuffs. The skirt

sleeves were just below elbow length with deep turned-back cuffs was gathered at the waist and hung in full folds to the ground, but
from which emerged the full shirt sleeves. The breeches, were wide contrary to the French law at that time, the young lady had hitched
and skirt-like; the large legs were pleated onto a waistband and fell up her skirt all round, a la retroussee, exposing the petticoat.
to just below the knees. The stockings were of the woollen variety. Covering the back of the head was a cornet', a coif style with long
The shoes were square-toed. The moderately high crown of the hat lappets or ear pieces which often fell behind the shoulders.
was indented and attached to a fairly wide, flat brim.

46

39 Officer and his Lady, c. 1678
The bodice of the lady's costume was long and close-fitting. The front with buttons and fancy button-holes. The sleeves were close-
low decoUetage was encircled with lace frills. The straight sleeves fitting to the elbows, then widened ending in a turned-back
slightly,
were elbow length and finished with lace ruffles. Long elbow- cuff. Across the body from the right shoulder to the left hip was a
length, close-fitting gloves made of silk or fine leather were worn long wide ornate baldrick which supported the sword. This was
for all formal dress. The skirt was full and closely gathered in small also decorated with ribbon loops, known as a 'sword knot'. Around
pleats at the waist, then hung to the ground. The head-dress was the the waist was tied a silken sash with fringed ends. Wide breeches
cornet' — a lawn cap which had a standing frill in front and long reaching to just below the knees were very popular. Square-toed
lappets falling behind the shoulders, or tied in front under the chin. shoes, which fastened with a buckle and strap, were worn; they had
The back view of the officer of c. 1678 shows the long body of large tongues over the instep. Wigs were worn by all fashionable
the justaucorps. The coat was collarless and fastened down the gentlemen. The wide brim of the felt hat was cocked high in front.

47

The square-toed shoes were fastened chemise sleeves. large square buckles and limp bunches of ribbon loops. 1682 The lady's tight-fitting. with a short flared skirt falling to just below hip suspended on a ribbon round the neck. The full skirt hung to the ground and the trained with straps. one side. The square. Gauntlet gloves were worn. The waist was also a button and loop. The sleeves were close-fitting to just below elbow length. overskirt was hitched up behind and at the sides. slightly waisted. ending just above the 'bloomer' breeches were fastened below the knee with ribbon ties elbow.40 French Officer in 'bloomer' style with Lady. Walking canes and crowned hat had a very wide brim which was usually cocked on long handled parasols called 'umbrelloes' were carried. The large. were carried. joined to a fullgathered skirt which was also trained. low- a 'headkerchief which fastened under the chin. The sleeves were short and straight. Across the decolletage formed round the back of the neck was either round or body was the wide baldrick which supported the sword. From under these sleeves emerged the full decorated with ribbon loops. small-waisted bodice of the gown was level. The Around the neck was a linen cravat with a lace border. Large fur muffs. The coat was trimmed with fur. Over the head was The shoes were usually black leather with red heels. c. 48 . they were turned and fastened just below the shoulder with and decorated with bunches of ribbon loops. often embroidered or The French officer wore the 'bloomer' style fashion. a French fashion.

The wigs continued to be headkerchief wrapped around the hair. with the fullness expanding slightly over the ribbon the large apron. Walking sticks were carried. The shoes tapered to a square-toe. The neck was enclosed with a linen cravat. The called a 'boater shape' hat. The sleeves were and fastened from neck to lace and fur. now longer. finishing nearer the wrist. 1684 The French gentleman wore his coat just above knee length. the coat was heavily decorated with fitting and open to the waist in front but was filled in with a laced buttons and braid. Down the front. The leather shoes tapered to a square toe and were loop gartering. large. usually longer on the left side. The bloomer' leg breeches were gathered onto a band just or rolled-up cuffs without frills or ruffles. The skirt was gathered onto the bodice in close pleats and coat was worn without a waistcoat and revealed the full shirt fell to ankle length. and fastened over fastened with a narrow ribbon. The low-crowned hat was 49 . Large gauntlet gloves were fringed with coat was collarless hem. c. around the The woman's costume was without frills. Full sleeves ended at the elbows and had turned beneath. The head was covered with a the high tongue with a strap and buckle. Also of coarse linen was below the knee. The bodice was close- skirt and around the cuffs. The corset'.41 Fashionable Gentleman and a peasant Girl.

The large brimmed hat length gloves were worn. Patches. The stomacher which came to a point in the front just below waist level. The hem was embroidered with a lace edging. From bodice. The shoes tapered to a square toe. often over this cuff emerged a deep ruffle. The frilled ruffle of the chemise dropped from the sleeve of the were tight-fitting. The exposed underskirt or petticoat was full breeches ended just below the knees and were tied with ribbon trimmed at hip level with a reversed flounce. then worn open to reveal the The straight sleeve ended above the elbow with a turned-up just chemise shirt beneath. ending near the wrist with a turned-up cuff. The gap in front was filled-in with a fitting down to the waist.42 Palace Guard Officer and Lady with a 'fontange'. cul de Paris. The sleeves cuff. The pockets were set very low. or mouches' were worn on the face as a mark of ostrich feathers. decorated with ribbon bows. the bodice was close-fitting and joined to a gathered The male wore the mixed fashions of the day. wig of long ringlets fell over the shoulders. The a bustle. coat was closed to chest level only. The trained skirt was taken back and hitched up. close-fitting elbow. (head-dress). High. 50 . the skirts flaring out to mid-thigh. The garters with hanging loops.1693 For the lady. The coat was close- and trained full skirt. The hair style was called the 'fontange' with the low crown was decorated around the edge with braid and coiffure. fringed with lace. beauty. c.

knee-length breeches. The fontange was tall and narrow. then fashioned onto the buttons or buckles. with one decorated with feathers. A medium-sized muff of matching fur was carried.43 Gentleman of quality and a fashionable Lady. c. The bustle effect became very apparent. The wide-brimmed hat edged with braid and 'fontange' head-dress. Around neckline to the hem with buttons. Close-fitting. gathered and trained skirt linen streamers were often pinned up to the crown. worn open in front continued in female fashion. Around the neck was the fashionable Steinkirk cravat. was close-fitting and ended just either side. but were now left completely the neck was worn a pallatine' or tippet of sable. The sleeves Men's coats became slightly more waisted with flared skirts remained short to the elbow with a turned-up cuff and deep ruffles coming down to knee length. It was whatever manner fashion decreed. was worn cocked to one side or in tier built over another. The fur tied loosely around the neck with the two ends dangling down waistcoat. reaching a considerable height. almost hair was parted in the centre and wired up above the forehead concealed by the coat. were fastened below the knee with either forming two high peaks on either side. similar to the coat. They fastened from the still collarless emerging below. The two long 51 . shaped like a half-closed fan tilting slightly forward. this was a scarf of open. 1694 The close-fitting bodice with the full. The above the knee.

changes in fashionable male dress. The coat was fashion were the large wigs of tight curls evenly arranged and usually collarless and fastened down the front with buttons. The pleated side worn. children never whim of the time. chest to the hem. plain and close-fitting. or those from the neck to the waist or from the The boy was dressed in the same style and fashion as his elders. in most cases. The sleeves were close-fitting with large or took up the fashionable adornment of wigs. were hung over both shoulders. Shoes did not alter. c. The coats were close-fitting to They were fastened at the knee by buttons or buckles. The essential items of vents and the back slit still dominated the coat. Usually all buttons. according to the fashionable The only difference was that he wore his own hair. Cloaks. medium size turned-back cuffs. 1695 The closing years of the seventeenth century brought no essential borders. if the waist with flaring skirts in various lengths.44 Nobleman and his Son. were left unfastened. The breeches were. framing the face. Cravats were of linen with lace 52 .

trained skirt was joined to the bodice and hitched up hung the sword with the ribbon loops or knots. ornamented with ribbon bows. The fastening was from the The lady's gown was the height of fashion at this time. which ended just above the knees. The exposed petticoat was heavily was a fringed silk sash.45 Officer with snuffbox. The bodice came up to the ending in a turned-back cuff from which emerged the sleeve of the neck at the back and was edged in folds of muslin. c. was 'furbelows'. The breeches ended just above the knees. Over the shoulder was a broad baldrick from which gathered. was filled in either by a buttons and braided button-holes. The 'fill-in' was shirt with ribbon bows. open in front to the waist. The wide-brimmed hat was feather 53 . 1698 The French officer wore the close-fitting coat and the flaring skirts trimmed and decorated with ribbon bows. embroidered around the hips and at the hem with heavy ruffles or The long ringlet wig. stomacher or an embroidered 'corset'. Encircling the waist towards the bustle-like back. The ribbon bow. The sleeves were close-fitting. which hung over the shoulders and back. The round collarless neck to the hem of the coat with a close row of bodice. and Lady. The neck was covered by a cravat and a of soft lawn and it completely covered the decolletage.

knee with a kneeband.46 French General with Lady in riding habit. The shoulders. The skirt vents remained. round turned-back cuffs. then falling down the back and over the slit at the back and two pleated side vents reaching to hip level. The was close-fitting to the waist. as in the past decades. and often trained. The knee breeches were fastened just below the rose up in two points on each side of a central parting. Around the neck was the Steinkirk was embroidered and was open to just below the chest to reveal the neckwear. c. or tricorne. then the jacket by heavy ornamentation or frogging'. The wig Steinkirk neckwear. A wide silk sash encircled the waist. The waistcoat full sleeve of the chemise. neck of the coat was low and collarless. from which emerged the sleeve cuffs emerged from below the coat sleeve cuff. full. was worn. The sleeves were close-fitting skirts flared out to justbelow knee level. medium-sized buttons surrounded in the jacket. The sleeves were close- and ended with deep. The 54 . 1704 The French officer wore the close-fitting coat reaching just below full-bottomed French wig remained in fashion with a mass of curls the knees. The cocked hat. The frilled shirt fitting and ended with a turned-back cuff. The coat was fastened from The lady's riding attire had a back slit and two pleated side vents neck to hem by dome-shaped. The petticoat was long. the open framing the face.

the hair was either cut very short or completely shaven brocade. satin. It came in a variety of materials such as damask. with the frilled or whitish grey in colour. The gown often tied at the was also used on wigs. Although in most cases the gown off.The morning gown was not unlike the dressing gown The large full-bottom wig was still popular and was divided into worn by men today. To accommodate these hot and cumbersome waist with a sash. The full shoulder. chintz and silk.47 Gentleman in morning gown. It was a loose gown which fell to just below three parts. and being light brown sleeves were turned or rolled back from the wrists. one down the back and the other two down either the knee. wig styles. tended to give a greying effect. Powder was used to clean the wigs. and had a roll collar and a wrap-over front. Perfume sleeves of the shirt emerging below. was worn with a nightcap. negligees. c. 1712 Morning gowns of Oriental and Asian design were worn by men as remove his coat and vest and then don his morning gown for ease. it was not uncommon for a gentleman to 55 .

The bodice of the from which the frilled cuff of the shirt sleeve emerged. the elbow. 56 . the low crown was worn. Plain which buttoned from neck to hem but was always worn open. The sleeves were close-fitting and ended just below which reached above the knees with slightly flaring 'bucket tops'. fastened down by hooks and eyes. spurs with star rowels. The leather gauntlet gloves were carried. The campaign wig was worn.The bodice chest to reveal the cravat. The jacket. decorated similarly to the coat. The The boots were square-toed and worn with spur leathers and metal petticoat was untrimmed and worn over dome-shaped hoops. 1720 The lady is wearing a separate bodice and skirt. the frilled cuff of the chemise emerged below. concealed the front to the waist Close-fitting knee breeches were enclosed under heavy jackboots by a fly closure. this framed The military officer is dressed in a low-necked collarless coat the face from a central parting and fell on to both shoulders. A silken sash encircled the waistcoat. doublet or casaquin was close-fitting to the waist where the waistcoat. was worn open at the skirt was basqued and flared out over the petticoat. c. The three cornered hat with sleeves were close-fitting and ended with a deep turned-back cuff.48 Officer and his Lady.

49 Lady in riding habit wearing a Steinkirk cravat, c. 1720
As horse riding was an essential part of life, and also a fashionable the popular neckwear, namely the Steinkirk cravat. The opening
sport, women who followed this pursuit wore the more practical from the waist down showed the deep inverted flounce of the
styles of their day. The female riding habit, apart from the petticoat at about mid-thigh level. The petticoat was full and fell to

petticoat, was therefore a copy of the male fashion. The coat about ankle depth. The hem was surrounded by a deep lace border.
followed the mode of the collarless coat for men. It had a back slit The hair was covered by a full wig, again following the male
and two pleated side vents which gave the stand-out effect. The fashion. This framed the face and fell down the back and on either
coat had fastenings from neck to hem, but was left open revealing side. The male tricome, or three cornered hat, was worn or carried.

the close-fitting waistcoat, which was fastened at the waist only. A tasselled riding crop was carried, and short gauntlet gloves of the
The fastening of both the coat and the waistcoat followed the male riding type were worn.
fashion of being buttoned left over right. The top opening showed

57

50 Fashionable Gentlemen of quality, c. 1725
The two gentlemen are wearing similar outfits. The coat was close- buttons and button-holes from neck to hem. It fastened by one or
fittingand waisted with the fully flared skirt reaching to just below two buttons at the neck and was then open to the waist, revealing
the knees. The back centre slit and the two side slits continued to be It was again fastened at the waist, by one or
the ruffles at the neck.
worn. The coat was without a collar and was cut rather low in two buttons, and then unfastened to the hem. The breeches were
front. It fastened with buttons and button-holes from the neck to gathered onto a waist band with the leg narrowing downwards,
waist level. The sleeves were close-fitting with deep cuffs ending finishing just below the knee in a kneeband over the stocking. The
well above the wrist. The gentleman standing wore the round cuff; shoes had blocked square toes with square high heels. The uppers
the gentleman sitting wore the 'boot' cuff. The vest, or waistcoat, of the shoes finished in square tongues which were high in front of
closely resembled the coat. It was close-fitting to the waist and had the ankle. The sides were closed and the fastening was by straps and
flaring skirts stiffened with buckram. The fastening was with buckles over the instep.

58

51 Officer in armoured breastplate with Lady, c. 1727
this he wore the sign of his profession
Over —
The lady depicted wears a closed robe with a bodice that had short breeches of the day.
robings and a stomacher front, similar to that worn with the open the last vestige of aby-gone age — armour. The chest and back
gown, but with a front fall fastening to the petticoat. A were covered with the cuirass and epaulieres; the upper arms were
handkerchief or modesty piece and tucker was always worn to covered with brassarts. Over the front of the thighs were garde-
cover the low decolletage. The skirt was made with a short fall at faude, tuille or tassets. A baldrick and waist sash were worn,
the front pleated onto a waist-band. This gown was worn with denoting the high rank of the officer. High 'bucket top' boots were
dome-shaped hoops, often called pocket hoops' which were for day worn with spur leathers and spurs. The campaign wig was
use only. The sleeves finished at the elbows with frilled cuffs surmounted by the cocked hat of the military style, called a
appearing below. The undress mop cap was worn with the border 'kevenhuller hat'. The brim was bound in open-work lace and
encircling the face. edged with a feather fringe.

The military gentleman wore the fashionable coat, vest and

59

At the bow at the back. framed the face with the frilled front border. The petticoat was worn over a had very deep turned-back cuffs to elbow depth. high tongue which rose in front of the ankle.52 Lady wearing a mantua. could have been the waist with the assistance of a belt. The man wore the outdoor garment or greatcoat known as the long-waisted bodice was unboned and shaped to the underlying redingote. The round-eared cap was worn. the pleated flaring skirt embroidered or plain in front. The close-fitting. The below the elbow with tumed-up cuffs. 60 . The close-fitting sleeves ended just reaching below the knees. the chemise sleeve and ruffle necklinewas encircled by two deep flat collars. and being tricome hat was worn over a powdered bag-wig. The corset. replacing the stomacher. the cap was made to fit by pulling a draw-string. but worn with a petticoat. c. The of whalebone or cane. which had a large bonnet shaped. The heavy cloth redingote was full but was pulled in at corset. The straight sleeves edged in lace appeared below. and Gentleman in redingole. basically an open robe. The square-toed structure called the 'capula' or 'bell hoop' made of distended hoops shoes had a long. This was back. 1729 The lady shows the back view of the 'mantua' style gown. The fastening was double-breasted.

Encircling the waist was a tartan screen or plaid. Around the neck was worn Highland clothes. trewsand plaid. often worn by Scottish ladies to show their black leather belt which secured the dirk dagger in front. From the for seven years for the second. To disobey this Act meant six months a white stock. The lady is seen wearing the claymore type sword on the left side. 61 . was hip. the black and red of the Rob Roy tartan. but with the right shoulder was a broad leather crossbelt which supported a full ruffle sleeves and a modesty piece. The eighteenth century. 1745 This plate depicts the wrap-over gown without hoops. Itwas very popular in Scotland during the left shoulder was slung the plaid. made it illegal to wear or put on the clothes commonly known as length and had a turn-over flat collar. or wrap-around cape. The jacket buttoned down the front. The hair was fashioned in the style of the Dutch fashionable bag-wig was worn. Over the Jacobite sympathies. The trews were close-fitting breeches with the imprisonment for the first offence and transportation to the colonies kneebands buckled below the knees over the stockings.53 Lady and Gentleman in Highland costume. The tartan shown on this plate is coiffure. c. The gentleman is wearing the complete Highland costume of In 1747 the English Government passed the 'Dress Act' which coat.

which ended just above the elbow. The opening of the bodice was filled in with a decorative The lappets were turned up and pinned to the crown with a brooch stomacher. The 62 . The or a jewel hat ornament. it was in fact part of sleeve ruffles emerged below. Long elbow-length gloves were worn. and was lightly boned. ^*^ 54 Lady in a quilted petticoat. were straight and close-fitting with small winged cuffs. stomacher was usually attached under the robings by pinning. c. The close-fitting bodice waistband and tied behind. ground. heavily embroidered with ribbon and lace. The sleeves. with the edges bordered with short robings and warmth. and down was a pinner. either side. the most costume was worn over an oblong hoop which was flattened both popular style of the period. The costume consisted of a bodice front and back. the chemise Although its name implies an undergarment. 1745 This dress of silk damask was in the open robe style. The petticoat was pleated onto a the costume and never hidden from view. a lace bordered cap worn on the crown of the head. This particular petticoat was quilted to give both fullness It was open in front. joined to a skirt which was open in the front to show the petticoat. Over the head from around the neck over the shoulders to the waistline. it then fell in loose irregular folds to the ended slightly below the normal waistline.

At the edge of the robings and across the top of the stomacher was a the back there were a few ringlets at the nape of the neck. The sleeves were full to the elbows. then were entwined with a ribbon knot. The bodice had a double ruffles. From which rested on the crown of the head. The robings crossed was worn. Over this hairstyle was a pinner finished with three horizontal pleats. High elbow-length gloves enclosed the lower arms. The Dutch coiffure shoulders.55 Fashionable Lady with embroidered robings. usually stitched down. 1750 This was a typical fashion of the 1740 — 50s. The plain stomacher was also wide. widespread decolletage with robings laying over the edge of the The skirt was worn over a dome-shaped hoop. these narrow lace frill or tucker. the lappets were drawn up under the sleeves appeared the full sleeves of the chemise with deep to the crown and pinned up. 63 . and the ears just visible below the hair at the temple. c. which consisted of the front hair waved back from the the back and came down either side to finish at the waist. Around forehead.

The robings went round the back had the dome shape. They were decorated with a spreading ribbon knot at the decorated the bun. This gown The close-fitting bodice was open. 1755 The sack gown. was worn which ended at about mid-arm.56 Madame de Pompadour. over the shoulders. c. adapted themselves to the type and shape of hoop worn. It was attached around the waist by a draw- stomacher with a series of ribbon bows. and then carried on down to the buckram. and temples. The overskirt and the petticoat at this period as an open robe. both for formal and informal use. decreasing in size down to string. A lace ruff was the waist. the hair at the back being brushed up and formed into The sleeves ended just above the elbows and were close-fitting to a small bun on the crown of the head. The petticoat was flounced and furbelowed. Pearls and ribbon often the arms. The gap in the open bodice was filled by a whalebone or cane. called by the French robe a la francaise. the required shape being formed by distended hoops of hem of the gown. The hair was brushed back from the forehead attached by pins to the tabs which were fastened under the robings. These were known as echelles. Appearing below the sleeves were deep treble ruffles of lace 64 . The supporting petticoat was usually made of of the neck. elbow. The stomacher was worn round the neck.

The gloves were worn. The stomacher was usually fastened to the coiffure. c. 1758 The lady wears the open robe gown with a trained overskirt. ended at Guards Infantry Regiment of the Prussian army. ornamented with silver lace and white ostrich plumage around the The petticoat was closely pleated into a waistband and tied at each top. The simple styled milkmaid' hat of natural broad stomacher was trimmed with echelles. The chief the elbows and were decorated with large ribbon knots. falling into loose folds to the ground. 65 .57 Guards Officer with Lady. to side. robings by tabs which projected for this reason. The sleeves. Ruffles characteristic was the evenly spaced rows of large loops and trimmed with frills of lace extended from the sleeves. were tight-fitting. The white wide square-necked decolletage and around the shoulders was gaiters were worn for summer uniform only. decreasing in straw was worn squarely on the head over the low insignificant size down to the waist. The popular elbow-length the shoulders and carried on down to the hem of the overskirt. The robings crossed the outer edge of inverted flounces at about knee level. which The officer wears the dress uniform of the 1st Battalion of the fitted well into the back of the bodice. The hat was crossed a chiffon handkerchief which was fastened at the bosom. Around the buttons which decorated the front and cuffs of the coat. or bows. It was trimmed with which was joined the bodice.

the 'pig tail' wig was often worn. The 'bergere' or stock was worn forming a high neckband. tight sleeves fitted well into the the knees were becoming more popular and long woollen stockings back of the bodice. and usually tied with black bows above coat fastened from the neck to the hem with buttons. Around the waist was a sword belt were low-set pockets with deep flaps. and finished just above the elbow with deep were worn under the knee-high riding boots. The three cornered hat was the accepted head wear. 1760 The gown worn by the lady was made in a delicately patterned extended from the coat cuffs. Just below waist level trimmed with a cockade. 66 . c. The closer fitting breeches which fastened at crossed 'handkerchief. The military black treble ruffles which reached almost to the wrist. The short. it brocade.58 Lady in 'bergere' hat with Gentleman Officer. was covered by a was single breasted. was broad brimmed. A sleeveless waistcoat was worn. for the military. were straight with deep cuffs that were closed all round and This. The bound with black ribbon. The sleeves and below. The frilled shirt sleeves supporting a military sword. The queue was long and spirally The gentleman officer wore the loose-fitting justaucorps. high cocked. The wide decolletage. square in shape. and ornamented with buttons and button-holes. For military gentlemen 'milkmaid' straw hat was very popular at this time.

67 . is made of patterned silk. c. The cuffs are ornamented with buttons and button- sack-back style. The waistcoat is sleeveless and usually knee-length. which hangs loosely are round-toed and fitted with an oblong metal buckle. Deep treble frills of chiffon and lace hang from the band. The stockings are of either cotton or silk. from the chest. tight sleeves in the holes. 1760 The lady is wearing a close-fitting cap of white muslin. The black leather shoes The gentleman is wearing the justaucorps. Her gown. over the front is a white muslin apron. end with a lace band with treble flounces just above the elbow. Short.59 Lady and Gentleman. The breeches. now became slightly closer-fitting than previously. Worn with the waistband fastened by three buttons in the front.

The overskirt is worn over an oval hoop and they are somewhat tighter-fitting. The square decolletage is edged with ruching and decorated coat is similar to that illustrated in Plate 59. too. The back. 68 . and powdered wearing satin-covered shoes. c. The breeches. false front. She is stockings and gold-buckled shoes made of black leather. all over. although the waistcoat with a bow. The lady's petticoat is flounced. She wears a robe a I'anglaise with the fourreau or sack The gentleman is wearing a wig with two horizontal rolls. The open bodice is worn with a stomacher with a is shorter. but buttoned.60 Lady and Gentleman dancing. 1765 The lady's hair is a mixture of real and artificial hair. He is wearing clocked silk has a little train at the back. have changed little since 1760.

69 . c. The comes down to just above the knee. The waistcoat is single-breasted. cut two double box pleats either side of a centre seam. The bodice has coat is and slopes away from the buttoned fastening on close-fitting a boned lining and lacing across the stomacher. The back of the dress is made up of fitting to just is embroidered with gold lace. The satin in satin. The sides of the the chest. skirt of the coat The sleeves are well set in and are fairly close- skirt are pleated. The breeches are also made The gentleman is wearing the popular black tricorne. while the coat above the elbow. 1770 The lady's sack gown has a square-cut decolletage. He is wearing silk clocked stockings and shoes. away at an angle just below the waist. The back vents are trimmed with sham button-holes.61 Lady and Gentleman.

At Pompadour wig with four horizontal curls on either side of her the back. /^^^-^ ••Jit. 70 . narrow powdered has a low. carrying a hand-painted.Uiill 'lUliii-i'' 62 Lady in a tasselled Polonaise Court gown. The sleeves are elbow-length with round cuffs which are puffed and The overskirt is bunched up in three puffed-out draperies. and a vertical curl hanging behind her ear. the bodice is shaped to the figureand continues into a head. As an accessory she is uncovering the petticoat completely. the laced waistcoat finishes in a blunt point. puckered. two sets of four ringlets. In front. 1775 This glamorous lady is wearing a tall. square neckline and fastens at the bosom with a bow. The bodice is without robings. and tied round with ribbon. ivory-handled fan. c. At the back are flared skirt.

ending round cuff. Striped stockings and low-tongued The gentleman is wearing the simple toupee. a muslin bow and turned-down collar in a different colour. vertically-striped and closed at the waist. 1786 The lady's hat is ornamented with feathers. She is wearing the open-robe style of dress with a tight fairly close-fitting. The sleeves are three-quarter-length. c. short waistcoat. The over-skirt is trained breeches are tight-fitting and long in the body and legs. His ending with a frill just below the elbow. neck he wears a muslin cravat. to the coat. bodice. The coat has a shoes complete his outfit.63 German Fashion. The sleeves are streamers. He is wearing the in a small. Round his and pleated to the bodice. 71 . The petticoat is long. The waistline is high.

Her shoes are made of silk fabric. The This gentleman is carrying a tall. 72 . wrap. the ends forming a bow. His frock coat has close-fitting basque jacket has a longer. 1789 This lady is wearing a white muslin mob-cap with a full crown. The square-cut waistcoat protrudes over the fullness of the back of the skirt. edged with lace. and its revers are turned over those of the coat. made of lawn like the shirt frill. The sleeves are is short. is wound around the ground. drooping back which tails which end at the back of the knees. black leather boots. She is wearing a velvet neck. His frilled just below the elbow and a muslin fichu is draped over the breeches are stuffed into the jockey-type. c. beaver hat.64 Lady in basque jacket with Gentleman. The full skirt is of patterned satin and reaches the neck-cloth. The shoulders.

73 .65 Lady and Muscadin. narrowing crown and a curling brim. c. The square-cut with a chiffon frill. worn by the lady. The close-fitting sleeves end at the wrist edged cravat fastens through the stand-fall collar. A muslin fichu is draped He is wearing the claw-hammer-tail frock coat with a high. His black jockey boots come to just below the knees. 1789 The French-style chemise gown. square across the bodice. His breeches fasten at the knee with muslin. is made of The Muscadin has a tall. Close-fitting sleeves taper at the wrists. mushroom type of white waistcoat finishes at the waist. The hat is a large. The lace- for tying around the waist. patterned muslin and tied at the waist. The front fall of the skirt is pleated on to a band cut-away waist. ribbon loops.

The ribbon girdles are buckled or buttoned either in broad ribbon. and a long. ending with a small chiffon or lace frills. full skirt reaching to the at the ends. in the main fairly thick. where it is arranged and tied with ribbons. a round. of muslin and ribbons or. 74 . below which the hair hangs. c. The hats are made Sleeves are long and tight. in some cases. Hairstyles varied during this period but the Male coiffures are now unpowdered. either to just below shoulder length or almost to the ground with a small bustle. 1790 The general characteristics of the dresses illustrated are a tight most popular are those with the fringe in front and ringlets round bodice with a buffon (neckerchief).66-67 Walking-out fashions. waist. high waist pleated to the back and sides of the head. are simply bandeaux of or just buttons. front or to one side. curled the waistband of the bodice. The decoUetages are low and round.

the dandy. Stockings are worn with flat-soled. either worn and canes are carried as single. Waistcoats are now shorter and hats are illustrated. The frock coat in various cuts and colours. brushed back from the forehead and bushy with leather shoes with silver buckles. Fobs are breeches fasten just below the knees with buckles or. with ribbons. in the case of accessories.or double-breasted is worn. black reaching the collar. Both the tricorne and tall beaver low side curls. 75 .

top. A tricolor rosette is fixed at the wears the English-type jockey or top boots. She wears a closed robe over the revers of the square-cut. 76 . the bodice of which has a low decoUetage and the sleeves jacket is the long-tailed. falling full to the ground. double-breasted frock coat with a wide gap long. c. He tapering crown and a wide brim.68 Gentleman in the 'Werther' mode with Lady. single-breasted waistcoat. The under-waistcoat has a shawl collar which appears just The lady's hat is tall with a soft crown. His breeches are of at the waist. and his dress. 1792 The gentleman is wearing a tall hat which is flat-topped with a cassimere (a form of cashmere) and fasten with hanging ribbons. close-fitting and buttoned at the wrists. The skirt is gathered between the revers and the stand-fall collar.

His redingote The lady's hat is in the fastens with self-material loops and buttons.69 Muscadin in redingote frock coal with Lady in redingote. He is also pointed revers. 1792 chimney-pot' style. n . buttoning at wearing a lawn neckcloth. The open-robe style. The overskirt falls away on either side to reveal the jockey boots. petticoat. The bodice is coat sleeves are tight-fitting with loop and button closure. with a large. The shoulders are turned up at the sides. c. round bnm The Muscadin wears a high-crowned. She is wearing the redingote dress in the close-fitting with a falling collar and covered with a double-falling collar and double-pointed revers. felt hat. The sleeves are long and tight-fitting. knee breeches with ribbon loops and the wrists.

fashionable. flat-soled shoes with gold buckles.70 Ladies in walking-out summer Gentleman. which is tied at single-breasted. is carrying an ebony cane. The lady on the left has a trained overskirt which is parted from His stockings are a light-coloured silk and he is wearing the wrap-over and makes a wedge-shaped gap in the front. 78 . The back has the narrow. made of a fine-faced cloth. 1793 dresses. are both made of lawn. the front in a bow. His shirt bodice is fastened in position at the waist. c. buttoned-up waistcoat and his knee breeches are of nankeen cloth. with The ladies are wearing the open robe with capuchin collar. He is wearing a cut look produced by setting back the sleeves. The a fitting and and his cravat. In his left hand he The gentleman wears a coat. close.

79 .71 Lady in a pierrot jacket with Gentleman. He is is draped around the shoulders. and flat-heeled. buff on style. 1793 The man crowned. c. The handkerchief pointed revers. The skirt is gathered wearing a lawn neckcloth tied into abow. felt frizzy with ringlets hanging down the back. black beaver hat. black leather shoes adorned with ribbon bows. The pierrot jacket is close. clocked silk stockings in at the waist and falls full to the ground. Her round muslin hat coat has a stand-fall collar with metal buttons and tight-fitting is decorated with feathers and ribbons. and his breeches end just below the knees. sleeves with small cuffs. His waistcoat is double-breasted with fitting with a low decolletage and short basques. The frock The fl la comeilleur coiffure worn by the lady is puffed out and carries a tall.

He has a tricolor sash of the French The other figure is also wearing a Phrygian cap with the tricolor Revolution over his shoulder. white leather with light brown leather turn-downs and boot straps and blue cockade of the French Revolution. 80 .72 Patriots wearing Phrygian caps. cockade. which are highly polished black upright with a pointed crown and ornamented with the red. tricolor hanging on either side. The revers and short collar His pantalons a pont open in front by means of a panel which is are in a red cloth. The length of his pantalons a pont is governed by held in position with three buttons. 1793 The drummer is wearing a short peasant jacket called a carmagnole. a carmagnole and a redingote. c. The red felt Phrygian cap is the height of his jockey boots.

The dress has a a full skirt to the ground and is The riding-coat dress. The lower buttons can dress. c. 1795 (neckerchief). was originally designed for riding. but it became very popular as a morning walking-out fastened with buttons right down the front. collars. as the name suggests. The close-fitting bodice has pointed revers in front. and the neck is encircled by two falling and fasten at the wrists with buttons. showing the petticoat. similar to be left undone.73 Lady in riding habit. The neckline is very low and the lady is wearing a buffon 81 . The sleeves are long and tight those on a man's greatcoat.

Two cravats are worn. The gentleman wears the beaver top hat. 82 . in white. and is edged with His partner is wearing the neo-classical type of dress in a light. The skirt falls to the ground and the sleeves (trousers). is high-waisted. She clinging muslin with a rounded decoUetage. sleeves. one in black and the other. tapering sleeves and pantaloons centre back by hooks. is underneath. and has a separate train attached to the a high-waisted. It has short. cut-away coat. ribbon bows which form the strings for tying under the chin.74 Gentleman and Lady in walking-out dress. with a piping of are full-length. contrasting silk around the back and the brim. puffed carries a fan. 1800 Here is the male fashion at the beginning of the nineteenth century. c. which The lady's hat is a silk bonnet-type.

The coat is cut away at the waist with long narrow tails and chemise gown with a low decolletage. c.a high-waisted muslin top. widening towards the The lady is wearing the classical dress . She wears a velvet spencer. the wrists. and a corded belt and tassels has sleeves which are puffed at the shoulders and tapered towards around the waist. tall crown. 1800 The gentleman's top hat is made of beaver with a slightly high neckcloth. His loosely-fitting culottes end above the ankles. -^v^ 75 Lady in a spencer with Gentleman. roughened surface and a large. Her gown is trained. The starched shirt frills stand well out from the chest with a high-standing collar without revers. 83 . Her bonnet-type hat of with the points of the collar reaching the cheeks from under the tucked silk has lace frills and ribbons.

falling to the ground.76 English Officer and Lady. She is wearing long gloves. A separate train. cuffs and revers are in the 56th Regimental a slip of thin taffeta. The epaulette is of silver lace with silver attached at the back. The head-dress is the fashionable in front to reveal theblack stock and small white jabot. coming to just below the knee are worn. c. White kerseymere 84 . and black leather culottes. The collar is high. showing their The lady is wearing the pseudo-Greek classical gown worn over colour. is double-breasted with the revers turned back. tassels. is facing colour. A crimson sash is worn around the waist. and open boots with reinforced tops. standing. with a button loop of silver lace on either side. purple. The jacket bicorne. The collar. 1801 The officer wears a cut-away scarlet tunic.

She is wearing a straw. pleated round the neck. Around the gown. light muslin collar of lace-edged muslin. c. She wears a deep embroidered bertha and high standing The other lady is wearing a high-waisted long. light gown. 85 . bonnet- high waist is a ribbon sash ending with a bow at the centre back. The sleeves are short puffs. round gown style of the hem. full to the three-quarter-length gloves. and three-quarter-length gloves. The sleeves are short and slightly puffed and she is wearing Empire. frilled trimming at the centre back extends from the waist to the Over her arm she carries a shawl.77 Ladies' summer walking-out dresses. ground. On the left is a girl in the long. 1804 These ladies are wearing the high-waisted. In her hand she has a capote. A shaped hat edged with satin frills.

from the neck to the hem. is fitting. c. A stand-up embroidered. with plain cuffs. and the sleeves are close- ruff. the cheeks. slightly puffed at the shoulders. His accessories include a fob and he carries a cane. 86 . The short puffed sleeves. Around her neck she is wearing a stand-falling pockets of the coat are at waist level. The centre of the dress. square-cut coat. 1808 The lady has a high-waisted dress with scallop-edged epaulettes and The gentleman wears a double-breasted. On her head she is wearing a close-fitting hat made of collar is turned down at the neck and a starched wing collar reaches ribbons and flowers.78 Lady and Gentlemen in walking-out dress.

She frilled front having a capuchin collar cut low in front. The small waistcoat has wears a version of the male top hat which has replaced the revers which overlap the collar of the short-waisted jacket. has to carry if over her arm. The Directoire jockey hat. c. and a masculine full cravat tied in a knot in front. thin leather gloves. 1808 The lady's riding habit is still very much in the Directoire style.79 Lady in riding costume. She is wearing a lawn shirt with a 87 . Her hair is styled in classical ringlets and she skirt is long and voluminous. so that when she is walking the lady has short.

with the slight fullness at the hips tapering down to the ankles. The high. with a jacket double-breasted with five brass buttons. c. with a The gentleman on the right follows the Brummel fashion. slippers trimmed with small buckles. His and 88 . He is wearing skirts of his coat cut back to form a square-cut tail-coat. A lawn The sleeves are narrow and long with slightly gathered shoulders cravat wraps around the neck and ties in a small knot in front. stand-fall collar has low-turning revers with M-shape notches. are high-waisted. The collar of the is button on each of the deep vents.80-81 Ladies and Gentlemen in walking dress. which fasten under the shoe. The The other gentleman also has a square-cut tail-coat. 1810-13 trousers. and outside pockets at waist level. shirt rises high against the cheeks and turns up all round.

The sleeves are short and puffed.small rounded cuffs. The untrained a high neck fastens with only three buttons. which vertical gown with and deep muslin ruff. The front of the single-breasted jacket. He is wearing high-waisted. close-fitting pantaloons which and close-fitting. ankle-length dress. Her bonnet-type hat is ornamented with feathers boots and a high shirt collar and cravat lying close to his cheeks. The sleeves are long waist. but with a low decolletage. He is carrying a beaver top hat and leather gloves. Her companion is wearing a similar high-waisted. high-waisted. The lady on the right is wearing the classical. fit and ribbons. 89 . slopes away from justabove the skirt is ankle-lengthwith a slightly-flared hem.

flaps. knee-length The other gentleman is dressed in the all-enveloping. 90 . c. It is fastened from the neck to just below the is with drawstrings and buttons and straps to alter the girth if fitted waistline with two rows of buttons. The back of the coat has a vent required. flapped side pockets and fairly garrick redingote with several collars. He is wearing top boots and a top with a strap and button. The brim of the gentleman's top hat turns up on either side. It fastens down the front and close-fitting sleeves. loose-fitting redingote with hip-level. 1814 The gentlemen on the left is wearing a double-breasted.82 Gentlemen in redingote and garrick redingote. The vertical pockets have buttoned-up hat with vertical sides. The turned-up collar or cape can be closed at the throat with two buttons in the centre. horizontal.

This gentleman is carrying his bicorne. and she is carrying a matching fan. 91 .83 Lady and Gentleman in evening wear. The waistcoat sleeves and the hem are appliqued. Her revers and a stand-fall collar. Features of the jacket include the shorter skirts. high-waisted Empire The gentleman wears a frock coat and tight-fitting breeches. 1815 The lady's evening dress the popular. coloured gloves the back of the knees. Her headdress is decorated with feathers. The skirts of the coat reach almost to short puffed sleeves are set off by elbow-length. touching the style. c. and the neckcloth is in the form of a cravat. white satin. The lady's feet peep out beneath isof white-embroidered. frills cheeks. The shirt collar stands upright. silk is still Hem are now very much in evidence and both the stockings and pumps.

around her shoulders is a patterned silk shawl with tasselled length pantaloons. and a cravat. 92 . He is wearing a tall hat with the crown widening borders. The with padding. He is wearing the ankle. ankle-length and reaches to the ankles. He has ankle boots and cotton gloves. high-necked. She has a large muslin poke bonnet. Over this she wears a pelisse. The gentleman is wearing a high shirt collar with the sleeves are puffed and end with a lace frill. 1818 The gentleman is wearing a well-fitting long surtout or greatcoat slightly at the top.84 Lady and Gentleman in spring costume. The collar and lapels are also reinforced dress flared out at the bottom. which is padded from the shoulders to the chest. Draped at the wrist points touching his cheeks. c. is single-breasted The lady is attired in a high-waisted.

Her shoulder bonnet.85 Two c. The skirt of the gown is wide and completely exposes the The brim of her silk poke bonnet curves to frame the face. ankle. the right is line isdropped and the waist. 1820 Ladies in morning dress. The lady on wearing the redingote pelisse with straight. is now long sleeves and a simple pelerine or tippet which has a double back and smaller than previously. The canazou is of ruched base of her gown trimmed with bands of gathered muslin bows. are tulle. 93 . Flowers and ribbons decorate the wide-brimmed poke The other lady is wearing a slightly newer fashion. covered with a ribbon sash. The style in its natural position collar of vandyked gauze. The front of her skirt and the tulle or of the sleeves is gigot (leg-o'-mutton).

The hat brim is now wavy and in a poke the face and ribbons knotted under the chin. is funnel-shaped with falls on either side of elbow-length gloves. the front and the hem trimmed with fur. framing the face. The collars. a natural waistline and and around her shoulders she is wearing a fur shawl.The upstanding collar and the hem are both made of wide fur Her dress is high-necked with a collar frill. in silk and blond lace inside. She carries a muff. The sleeves are demi-gigot. The bonnet. c. The border is ruched bonnet shape. 94 . 1822 The full cloak worn by the lady on the above the left falls to just The lady on the right is wearing a mantle trimmed with fur at the ankles. are wrist. partly covered by decorated with feathers. an ankle-length hem.86 Ladies in winter fashion.

and a buckled belt encircles shawl of flowered silk. 1826 The German lady on the left is wearing an ankle-length dress. on She is wearing kid gloves. c. which dangle down decorative parasol. The The French demoiselle wearing a similar dress and a French is dress is frilled from the knee to the hem. decorate her large hat. which has a pleated bodice with a lace-edged. The sleeves. Her hat is very large and the waist. '' V 1. with deep borders. taper down to the heavily ornamented with flowers and ribbons. Feathers and ribbons. either side. round neckline. puffed at the shoulders. 1i tt . 95 . ( ' V 87 German and French costumes. . She carries a wrists and end in a frill.

88 Lady and Gentleman in walking-out costumes. has a high neck with a turn-down and a buckled belt frill. are long and close. at the waist. full The lady's dress. The sleeves. and ribbons which fall to the waist. 96 . He is wearing a top hat with the brim turned up slightly at feathers. The trousers are strapped under the gloves. trimmed from knee level to the ankle-length skirts to knee level and horizontal pockets with flaps. c. which are slightly gathered at the shoulders. The wearing white kid sleeves are demi-gigot. She is fitting with a slit in the cuffs. hemline. and her hat is very large with a profusion of ornamental boots. the sides and a crown which widens at the top. 1826 The gentleman's double-breasted frock coat has a rolled collar.

The trousers are full at the waist and taper down to fasten under the foot. On his head the topper with the brim from the knees to the ankles. A buckled belt is down to the knees. The dress is slightly funnel-shaped and is shoulders. Her hat is very large and turned up at the sides. The neckline is trimmed with broad ribbon. Over her shoulders is a shawl.89 Lady and Gentleman in outdoor dress. 97 . high and the collar is gathered on a band and secured with a ribbon The man is wearing a single-breasted frock coat. The tails reach around the neck to form the ruff and small cape. The gigot sleeves are full at the frilled is shoulder and then taper to the wrists. c. 1829 The lady's dress has a draped bodice with a fichu. The sleeves are close-fitting with gigot worn round the waist.

carries a cane. 98 . He wears a tall silk hat and with satin. 1830 The lady is wearing a wide dress. Two capes knees and the trousers are styled en matelot. The bodice The gentleman is wearing a double-breasted frock coat with a has a V-shaped front formed by converging pleats from the velvet collar and large revers. The skirts are square-cut. above ankle-length. sleeves. His satin neckcloth has cover the shoulders. ending just above the back of the tapering to the wrist and has a small turn-back cuff. The bonnet hat has a very wide brim edged collar points touching the cheeks. On her feet she wears low-slippered shoes. The waist is tight-fitting as are the shoulder to the waist. c. The gigot sleeve is full at the shoulder.90 Lady and Gentleman in day dress.

1831 The riding habit. has a dark-coloured gauze veil which floats decorated with buttons down the front. tricot drawers are worn which fit tight over the considered attractive. instep and are held in place by a strap passing over the riding boot. with short revers and a velvet collar. A fashionable masculine-style neckcloth ties allow it to sit properly when the wearer is mounted on horseback in front in a bow and is worn with a white ruched shirt front. was often worn as a breakfast dress as well. is coloured beaver. The masculine top-hat. c. The one illustrated made of a coloured waterproof cloth. of silk or tightly-fitted jacket. popular both of necessity and because it was and underneath. 99 .91 Lady in riding costume. The skirt is extra full to behind in the breeze. The is The sleeves are in the gigot style.

The gentleman is dressed in a double-breasted tail-coat. 1833 The lady's dress has a close-fitting bodice with a fairly low sleeves are close-fitting and have slit cuffs. the crown of which is decorated with flowers and ribbons. It is fitted with gigot sleeves. The bonnet is made of fitting trousers are held in position by a leather strap. He is carrying silk. The ankle-length skirt is full-gathered at goffered shirt has a high collar and the cravats are low. The tight- the waist and puffed out with petticoats. a Wellington top hat. over which lies the waistcoats. c. He is wearing two decolletage.92 Lady in 'pelerine en ailes d'oiseau' with Gentleman. the top one is made brocade. His in a beautiful silk pelerine en ailes d'oiseau. The 100 .

1834 down Her little girl is wearing a close-fitting bodice with the waist The close-fitting bodice of this lady's dress has ruching right the front to the hem. The cambric trousers or pantalettes are similarly decorated.93 Lady and Girl in walking-out costumes. The pelerine is edged bouffant coming full to the wrists and fastening in a tight cuff. The with ribbon. is very full and puffed out with starched petticoats. The sleeves (imbecile sleeves) are very encircled by a wide ribbon sash tied in a bow. She is wearing gaiter boots. 101 . She carries a parasol as an accessory. c. Her the overskirt is ruched and edged with ribbon. The skirt is full and comes just below the knee while skirt. too. silk bonnet has a tall crown.

1836 Summer wear for the lady consists of a dress with a close-fitting from the sun. A cape-like collar called a full skirt. frilled collar tied in a bow at the centre. He is also wearing double waistcoats. 102 . It is double-breasted with a broad velvet collar bonnet. decorated with feathers. elbow-length sleeves. short and full. c. She is wearing a large coat. She carries a parasol as protection and sleeves tight to the wrists. The full skirt The gentleman in the background is wearing a petersham frock is gathered at the waist and falls to the instep. The pantalettes can be seen hanging down below the dress 'bertha' accentuates the sloping shoulder-line. turned-down. The little girl is wearing a tight-fitting bodice and a bodice and tight. The neckline has a and fastening at the ankles.94 Lady and Child in summer costumes.

The skirt is full. short redingote or a walking stick. close-fitting bodice with a small frock coat which has rather tight sleeves. small cravat. The trousers are tight-fitting and fasten sous pieds. 1836 The lady is wearing a high-necked. The shirt collar is high on the cheeks but is kept in place with a The bonnet. large. and The gentleman is dressed in a tight-waisted. These 'Victoria' sleeves are rows of buttons. He is carrying a top hat with a rather high crown. tight at the shoulder but are wide and very bouffant at the elbow. has a wide brim.95 Gentleman in short redingote with Lady. 103 . flaring skirts. It is thigh-length and closes with two to the waist and long to the ground. wide turn-down collar and filled neckband. pleated on revers and a velvet collar. bedecked with feathers and ribbons. c.

Next to her is a lady wearing the pelisse of cape collars. others feather. c. which are covered by a bertha. Ribbons tie under the chin in a bow and the ends appearance of one large shawl or mantle. They give the framing her face. She wears cotton stockings and kid gloves.96-97 Walking-out costumes. The skirt of her gown is dangle down loosely.which has a flower-pot style crown and a wide brim hang over each arm and another forms the collar. silk on a wire frame. Her hairstyle is sleek with a centre parting flounced around the hem. Her 'drawn' bonnet is made of gauze and and a bun. decorated with an upright draped to the figure. She has a capote-style bonnet. The bodice fits close to entirely of large shawls which are bordered with deep lace and her figure. One is draped across her shoulders. which 104 . 1838 The lady on the extreme left is wearing a dress cut low off the The top of the dress worn by the lady on the right is made up shoulders.

hat completes the outfit. His trousers fasten sous pieds. close- the front and merges into the Victoria' sleeves. the hem of which has a wide trimming.follows the shape of the shoulders. fastens with ribbon ties down Their male companion has a double-breasted tail-coat. The bodice is tight. and the skirt. His 'Cumberland' top capote-style bonnet with a bavolet. His hair is gathered at the waist and falls full to the ground. 105 . She wears the curly and he has whiskers and a moustache. waist with a shawl collar. is the collar turned down. and a knee-length cape with fitting to the fitting.

He is is gathered at the waist and made very full by the bustle and many wearing a cravat and silk top hat and carries a cane. The long skirt touches the toes deep collar of velvet trimmed with braid around the edges. It trousers are tight-fitting and strapped under the shoes. It is trimmed from waist to hem with brandenburgs. c. Her sleeves are tight to the wrist pantalettes hang from under his coat to his ankles. Their little boy is in a velvet coat and waisted. 1839 The gentleman's short redingote has a slightly flared skirt and a where they turn back in a small cuff. 106 . figure-hugging bodice. She carries a fringed shawl. His wife has on a morning open-robe dress with the long. She has a passe-etroite bonnet decorated with feathers. petticoats.98 Family group. The of the shoes.

neckline. the earlier mameluke' variation of gauze bouffants. Stockings and silk gaiter shoes are visible. The waistcoat buttoning down the front and revealing the open bodice neckline is half-high and has a ruching decoration. The full skirt The little girl is wearing a close-fitting bodice with a square reaches to the ground and has two deep flounces edged with lace. 107 . pleated and laced. The sleeves have chemisette. The long-waisted In the background is a lady with a close-fitting jacket bodice and bodice isdraped with folds to form a V-shape to the waist. c. mid-calf length. 1840 The lady has on a summer morning round gown.99 Ladies and young Girl. and crown in one. The skirt is full and wide. The skirt is separate. with deep The bonnet she is wearing is now almost horizontal with the brim flounces.

The top hair is brushed sleekly down from with a bavolet. c. gathered into the waist. and which fastens down the front to join which are in the Victoria style. figure- dress The lady on the left is wearing a morning dress with a close- hugging bodice. The sleeves are tight to the wrists. 1842 The worn by the lady on the right has a long-waisted. The skirt is full to the ground and at the pointed waist. 108 . A deep falling border covers the top of the sleeves deep. is set back a little on the head and trimmed with lace the centre. boned in front. The bonnet. which tie under the chin in a bow.100 Two Ladies in day dresses. bodice and a fitting net pelerine which has a V-shaped neck with a shaped opening. The decoUetage has a high V. and ribbons. turned-down collar.

reaching just and wide. c. His waistcoat is single-breasted and has a shawl collar. and single-breasted. close-fitting bodice coming to a point She is wearing a bonnet decorated with feathers. The side pockets are without from under which come engageantes. He has gathered at the waist and decorated down the front with wide lace on a scarf-neckcloth and his trousers are tight-fitting and fastened trimming and ribbon bows.101 Lady and Gentleman in autumn costumes. Her pelerine is also trimmed with lace. above the knees. It is slightly waisted. It has a high. The top hat is slightly curved out at the top. 109 . Her companion in the front and fastening at the back. sous pieds. 1842 This lady has a long-waisted. flaps. straight. closed corsage wears a Chesterfield paletot. The skirt is long and full. three-quarter-length sleeves with lace cuffs.

Her bonnet frames her face has five flounces. The long skirt falls to the ground and ground and gathered in at the waist. The collar is deep with wide revers bodice is draped across the front with folds from the shoulders and the sleeves are tight to the wrist. Her front hair is brushed smoothly down from a and the ribbon strings emerge from the inside of the brim.102 Indoor and outdoor costumes. The close-fitting bodice cut close to the figure. The habit shirt is encircled by meeting in a V-shape in the centre. c. centre parting. Her dome-shaped skirt is long and full to the length and edged with lace. The sleeves are three-quarter- a turn-down collar. 1843 The lady on the right is wearing an outdoor redingote dress with a The other lady is dressed in an indoor dress. 110 .

is wearing slipper shoes and carrying a round straw hat. The sleeves are fight Encircling her neck is a lace collar and she has elbow-length sleeves to the wrist. Ill . turn-down collar. Her hair is parted in the centre with bodice.103 Lady in day dress with Boy. The skirt is long to the ground. 1846 The morning dress worn by this lady has a close-fitting jacket silk bonnet with a bavolet. buttoned down the front from neck to waist and finishing ringlets. short jacket has a narrow with short basques. She is wearing a ruched curly all over. His trousers are without a crease and ankle-length.The young boy's single-breasted. c. His hair is gathered at the waist and organ pleated. and a lace basquin overhanging the skirt. and buttons all the way up. He lying over her Victoria sleeves.

A silk top hat is worn. 112 . long sleeves are close-fitting and end in short cuffs fastened with The back view shows the cut of the coat and the two back pleats. c. the skirts ending just above the bend of the knee. The trousers are wide. buttons. and are fitted with straps low collar joins the very wide revers with a V-shaped notch. The shirt collar breasted jacket is long and narrow-waisted and fastens with a is high and the cravat has fringed ends.104 Gentleman's frock coat. The becoming narrower towards the ankle. long-waisted and which fall from just below the waist on either side. button stand. buttoned from the neck to just below the waistline. The waistcoat is single-breasted. The under the instep. 1846 Illustrated are front and back views of the frock coat. The double.

It reaches just the edges with a deep lace frill. The turn-over of with a deep. double-lace collar. square-cut waistcoat with flat revers and the top of his crown and brim horizontal. Ribbon strings fasten under-waistcoat. c. 113 . embroidered round The gentleman wears a double-breasted paletot. and is buttoned down the front.105 Lady and Gentleman in walking-out costumes. and a bavolet. trousers taper at the ankle and fasten sous pieds. The bonnet is the popular type with breasted. He is wearing a high collar with a cravat. The skirt is gathered at the the wide revers reaches to the waist and reveals the double- waist and long to the ground. round neck is encircled above the knees. the closed. The under the chin in a bow with dangling ends. falling. 1848 The lady is wearing a large mantelet a pelerine.

Around the waist he wears a broad belt. The dress underneath has tight sleeves to the Beneath the tunic he has pantalettes with frilled edges.106 Lady in frilled bonnet with small Boy. and reaching to just above the knees and at the back to cover the bustle. bowler hat. and he is carrying a walking-stick. 1849 The lady is wearing a three-quarter-length silk shoulder wrap. The skirt is long and full. deep gathered slightly. The man in the background is dressed in a morning coat with a The little boy is dressed in the tunic form of jacket where it is silk top hat. and the front closes to the neck. On his head he wears a felt. c. The buttoned down the front. which fall wrist. 114 . bavolet. She has on a silk ruched cap with a just below the knees. cape is embroidered.

1850 The lady's day dress has a basquin bodice. and shawl with a fringed border. Her short day gloves with a V-neckline and a turned-down collar edged with a narrow are tight-fitting. The skirt bodice with a short basque. 115 . buttoned to the waist. lace frill. with a the pantalettes hang below the skirt to just beneath the knees.107 Lady and Girl of fashion. There are bell-shaped sleeves which reveal the sleeves of The little girl is dressed in the close-fitting. The skirt is long to the knee and flounced. is full to the ground. The crown and brim are all-in-one. c. The bonnet is wide-brimmed. bavolet. square-cut jacket the chemisette which are puffed and fasten at the wrists. Over her shoulders and arms she wears a large with undersleeves. She also has the bell-shaped sleeves.

The Her little girl is wearing a three-quarter-length shoulder cape. and the lace-edged length there an ornamented border encircling the dress. The legs are encased in long gaiters which a muslin cap at the back of her head. 116 . gathered long to the ground. high to the neck and fastened down the front with braided loops. 1851 The lady is dressed in a day dress with a close-fitting bodice.108 Lady and young Girl in day dresses. The skirt. The lady's coiffure has a button up the outside of the leg. c. is The dress beneath falls to just above the knees. She wears is pantalettes just below. The felt hat has a low crown and a centre parting with a chignon at the back of her head wide brim. and just below knee at the waist. sleeves are three-quarter-length and end in a large ruffle.

with are tight-fitting and fasten sous pieds. Over her The lady has a close-fitting. lace bavolet and is decorated with a feather. Her silk-covered bonnet has a V-shaped and is filled in with the habit shirt with a small. redingote-style dress. turn. 117 . The bodice is arms she is carrying a large shawl. is full the wrists. en redingote. He does not put his arms in the hanging sleeves. buttons from just above the waist to the hem of the skirt. down collar around the high neck. then full to The skirt. The trousers to the ground. 1851 The gentleman wears over his shoulders a three-quarter-length. ornamented up the front and on to the bodice. It hangs straight and has a the armhole.109 Gentleman in a burnous with Lady. c. hood. The sleeves are close-pleated at cape-like overcoat called a burnous.

1852 On the right of the picture a lady wearing a jacket bodice which is open sleeves have engageantes. c. it is closed to the neck and fastens up the front. The 118 . The sleeves are bell-shaped to the elbow with large. The other lady is wearing the bodice with the basquin body and turn-back cuffs with undersleeves. epaulette collar. with basques. The cap sits on the back of the head. The skirt is very full with scalloped fits closely to the waist. short basques. The little girl has on a collar and she has open sleeves with engageantes. Her skirt is wide tight-fitting bodice with a chemisette high to the neck and a deep and full with treble skirts. Her day cap is far back on her head. 1855 with young Girl. c. The skirt is triple-flounced. The neck is closed with a lace edges.110 Ladies in crinolines.

turn-down collar. The sleeves are the bishop type. peaked cap and is holding a stick and hoop. 119 . On has cotton stockings and gaiter-type shoes. flounced crinoline skirt.Ill Lady in crinoline with young Boy and Girl. The girl's jacket bodice The boy is wearing a jacket bodice with a basque. He wide. The basque of the sleeves reveal the full chemise sleeves which emerge from jacket stands out over the wide hooped skirt. Bell-shaped has a square neckline and short. He wears a round- her head she wears a fanchon bonnet. The skirt reaches just above lace. c. puffed sleeves. 1856 This day dress has a waist-level bodice and a high neckline with a underneath and are puffed to the wrist. The basque of the jacket hangs over the the knees and short pantalettes hang down from underneath.

The decoUetage. The sleeves are short and to just above the knees. and the V-shaped of lace. trimmed Next to her is a young lady with a tight bodice coming to a point with lace. The short sleeves are hidden under epaulettes shoulders. and the V-shaped front is trimmed covered by a ribbon bow. bodice which is deep-pointed at the waist. The bertha (collar) is wide over the with wide lace revers. c. small flounces and flowers and falls to the ground. The skirt is full to the ground. shaped to the waist with 120 . is set off the shoulders. 1857 The lady on the extreme right is dressed in an evening gown with a ornamented with flowers and she has on elbow-length gloves. diminishing to the centre waist. Her hair is Centre is a lady in a redingote day dress. The overskirt is gathered at the waist and very full. reaching decoUetage is filled in with a chemisette.112-113 Day and evening dresses. while the skirt underneath is decorated with bouffant with a ribbon bow.

double- 121 . expanding to a wide opening just above the wrist. Their male companion wears a three-quarter-length. to and braided arm slits. A small cravat is worn with the high shirt the hem. and his shoulders. and silk top hat crowns the fashionable waved hair. worn with side worn with tight engageantes. which is encircled by a narrow.a wide-based skirt falling full to the ground. whiskers.The dress buttons from breasted paletot which flares from the shoulders. The sleeves are in the 'pagoda' style — tight-fitting at the collar. A small hat is decorated with flowers. His trousers are tight-fitting. fastening under his foot. has wide revers the neckline. turn-down collar.

turned-down the front of the dress. She wears gloves. Her sleeves are pagoda' style with muslin collar. 122 . c. button up on the inside of her legs. Her boots varying in size. The knee-length skirt is double-flounced and attached engageantes. 1857 The gown worn by this lady is a day dress with a high-necked The wearing a tight-waisted bodice over which is a little girl is bodice fitting tight to the figure and fastened from neck to waist mantelet echarpe — a pelerine with long scarf ends hanging over with buttons. The sleeves are in 'pagoda' fashion with triple flounces and sleeves underneath. Her hat is low-crowned. The neck is encircled with a narrow.114 Lady in crinoline with little Girl. The crinoline skirt is full with five flounces below hang the frilly drawers. She has a cap with a bavolet.

123 . turn-down collar. The skirt underneath with a wide base while the overskirt is a series of long basques.115 Young Ladies of fashion. Her bonnet is The other lady is dressed in a tight-waisted overdress. The jacket bodice with short basques is closed round the The straight sleeves are tight at the wrist and the neck is encircled neck with a narrow collar. Round her waist she has a buckled belt. It is single. It is trimmed with gimp cord and The sleeves are the coat sleeve' type. falls to the ground and is edged with a frill. ornamented with flowers and ribbons. with a small. The skirt is funnel-shaped the skirt is funnel-shaped with a wide base. 1860 The young lady on the right wears a dress ornamented with breasted and buttons from the high neck to just below the waist. ruching. c.

The three-quarter-length sleeves have deep. lawn sleeves fastening at the wrist. 124 . 1860 The lady has on a travelling cloak-coat which is made of a light istrimmed with a wide ribbon border. which The little boy is dressed in a belted tunic. He is with full. At the waist it is cldse-fitting but it bonnet. turned-back full. The sleeves are wide. edged with broad ribbon and worn over a chemise cuffs. On her head is the 'spoon' alpaca trimmed with ribbon. c.Underneath he wears a chemisette with full sleeves. which has a rounded continues the bell-shape effect to the ground. then flares out in a bell-shape until it meets the dress. bell-shaped. The hem of the dress wearing baggy knickerbockers with stockings and gaiter shoes. decorated with feathers and ribbon.116 Lady in travelling coat with small Boy. neck.

He is The gentleman with her is wearing a long jacket coming about wearing a beaver top hat and he wears gloves and carries a cane. 125 . fastens an opening from under the elbow to the wrist. starched cuff. The skirt is funnel. shapeless except for a slight tapering from mid-calf to ankle. 1862 The and lady's walking-out dress has a bodice cut close to the figure two-thirds of the way down the thigh. sleeves are narrow and long to the wrist. Atie is worn. Her head is covered with the lace. It is double-breasted. c.117 Lady in Stuart cap with Gentleman. The plain revealing the puffed chemisette lawn sleeve. revealing the edge of the shaped with a very wide base. The trousers are baggy and rather edged Stuart cap. straight sleeves with high on the chest and has a narrow collar and revers.

118 Lady day dress with small Boy. She is carrying a silk parasol and a straw boater. 126 . The sleeves are elbow-length and reveal the full pyramid in shape. The skirt is above the knees. The bodice is The boy wearing a three-quarter-length dress. wearing pantalettes. c. very wide at the base. chemisette sleeves of lawn which are wrist-length. The sleeves and flares out over the crinoline support to just slightly at the waist. It is shaped is tight-fitting and closed around the neck in a V-shape. He is a lace cap. are bell-shaped with full chemisette sleeves underneath. The chemisette The spoon-type bonnet has a straw brim and the face is framed in is closed around the neck with a small turn-down collar. Around the waist is a sash. 1862 in The lady'sday dress has a bodice and skirt cut in one.

119 Lady with mantilla and Lady with bolero. A bolero down the front to the fitted waist. The lace bonnet silk caul with lace decoration. a veil. c. The bonnet. lace-trimmed epaulettes is worn over the sleeves. The overskirt is joined to the bodice and falls into skirt is full and funnel-shaped with a very wide base. The turn-down collar. She is carrying a silk parasol. A deep epaulette covers waist is a broad buckled belt. 1863 The lady standing is dressed in a tunic dress with a bodice buttoned The seated lady is wearing a separate bodice and skirt. in fanchon style. 127 . From the bavolet at the back hangs lies flat on the head. Around the a 'key' shape which reveals the underskirt. The high neckline has a small with deep. has a the long sleeves which end in a wrist cuff of lawn.

The edged with the same thin lace frill that appears round the neck and lady in the foreground carries a riding crop. giving an even greater effect of fullness. The close. They are buttoned from here up to the high. This bodice is gathered on to ttie fitting bodice comes to a V-shaped point in the front and is voluminous skirt. silk top hats with muslin veils which fasten are straight with a turned-back cuff. The sleeves wearing masculine. rounded neckline. down the front of the bodice.120 Ladies in riding habit. closed with two buttons and round the base and hang down the back. c. almost to the waist. 128 . 1865 These ladies are dressed in the fashionable riding habit.

The lace-frilled sleeves are very short and puffed. 129 . puffed sleeves are decorated on the The underskirt is long and trained and. and around her head is a wearing short evening gloves of silk and carrying a fan. c.121 Young Ladies in evening gowns. heavily shoulders with ribbons. Attached to the bodice is an overskirt. edged with a lace collar. 1873 The young lady on the right is dressed in a ball gown with a low. like the overskirt. off-the-shoulder bodice in the polonaise style. tablier in front. flounced. bandeau of ribbon. She is She is wearing long evening gloves. The short. looped up at the sides. The bodice worn by the very young girl has a round neck with a round. and is attached to the overskirt which is trimmed en frill. Round her waist is a broad ribbon sash.

The worn low over waistcoat front is in a different material and has a V-neckline filled straw hat has a small crown adorned with ribbon trimmings. 122 Lady in a day dress. fitting tight to the elbows and surrounding the neck. 1876 The main figure illustrated is in a walking-out day dress which has up at the sides. and carrying a coloured parasol and a large fan. c. The long. -%=. trained overskirt is caught buttons. and the front falls into pleated draperies. then forms a shawl-shape sleeves are three-quarter-length. 130 . The The hair is the forehead with a frizzy fringe. The wide brim. en tablier.\*. She is wearing long suede gloves with eight ending with large frilled cuffs. and a in with a chemisette which is fitted with a high ruffle collar. it ties under the chignon. a jacket bodice with a long basque forming the overskirt.

turn-back cuffs edged with sleeves are also trimmed. Both the jacket and the basque are decorated with wide trimming which is filled in with a chemisette with a frilled jabot. The skirt has a tie-back fanned out in a a small frill and decorated with buttons. close-fitting bodice and double skirt. and is high and buttons. 131 . jacket-type bodice is hip-level at the front and sides. and two rows of trimming form a sailor collar. short train. The long sleeves have deep. It has a square-cut neckline. with the The lady on the left is high-necked. The The other young lady is dressed in the 'Princess' style.123 Ladies in sailor 'Princess' styles. The at the back. 1876 and wearing a walking-out seaside costume. c.

1879 The lady on the left is wearing a dress with a hip-length jacket a fringe and is covered by a 'Rubens' hat. bodice. The shaped. 132 . Her companion has on a day dress with a matching coat. bodice is with a ruffle of lace. The decoUetage filled in with a frilled collar of lace. and the sleeves are to reveal the silk lining. The trained skirt is trimmed with ruffles and small handbag made of silk with metal clasps. Her hair is worn with bows. She wears long day gloves and carries a straight to the wrist. is V- . c.124 Ladies in walking-out dresses. the overskirt is turned back The neck is encircled with a small lawn collar. The skirt is double. The sleeves are elbow-length and have a turned-back cuff tight-fitting buttoned right down to the hem at the hips.

1880 The lady on the left is wearing the cuirasse bodice with a square-cut shoulder lace and plastron. The sleeves reach the elbows and end with back with a square-cut decolletage.125 Ladies in evening gowns. The front panel (plastron) The other lady also has on a corset-shaped cuirasse bodice. high is in a different material. buttoned evening gloves. The skirt is long and the overskirt is caught up at the sides The sleeves are elbow-length. c. and the overskirt hangs down the front. The puffing of the sleeves and the The skirt is trained. hips in a point. The plastron ends at the at the ruffles. high at the back of the neck. ending with a ruffle. decolletage. and draped in the apron fashion. 133 . She is puffing at the back of the skirt is in a matching colour to the wearing fairly long. She is wearing drop earrings and gloves.

The evening shirt has a high. The skirt is trained and flounced. The sleeves are short and puffed. 1881 The coming to a point in lady's evening gov\. The single-breasted waistcoat has a deep V-shaped with velvet ribbon and bows. The low decoUetage is off-the-shoulders and ornamented skirts arenarrow at the bottom. 134 .126 Lady and Gentleman in evening wear. The the front. The sleeves are close-fitting with a with a deep lace and velvet fichu. The trousers are narrow with a braid running down either decorated with lace and velvet ruching. closed collar and flounced and trimmed with large velvet bows and a sash of velvet. c. turn-back cuff. He is wearing plain white gloves. a small cambric bow-tie. The overskirt is also side from the waist.n has a cuirasse bodice The gentleman has on the square-cut dress-coat evening suit. and front.

135 .127 Lady in tailored dress and waisted jacket. Her waved hair has a centre parting and a short fringe. The tight sleeves end at the wrists the ears. draped. c. exposing matching skirt. She is carrying dangling ends. The skirt is gloves and a parasol. especially over the hips. 1881-2 The main female figure is clothed in a tailor-made jacket with fringing. Around her neck she has a lace collar with wings and flowers which stand well up in the air. She is wearing a toque hat ornamented with white doves' with a turn-back cuff. fastened by a brooch in the centre. The jacket is close-fitting. the side hair is taken back into a Cadogan' style at the back. caught up at the side. and has wide revers and collar. slightly trained and decorated with Other costumes can be seen on the background figures.

128-129 Walking-out dress. up at the back. reefer-type jacket with a low. and a high-crowned bowler hat. 1885-7 The lady onthe extreme left wears a jacket bodice with long. worn with a neck-tie. the bottom. the other TTie gentleman in the centre is wearing a single-breasted morning a morning coat and a top hat. His trousers are close-fitting and narrow at The overskirt is drawn up at the sides and bunched fitting sleeves. double-breasted. Next to her is a man in the background wearing an Ulster (long To her right are two background gentlemen: one is wearing a loose overcoat). coat. c. checked cape. and the shirt collar is high and The background lady is wearing the tailor-made habit jacket with 136 . straw hat. close. He is carrying a bowler hat and a walking-stick. The next lady is dressed in a jacket-bodice dress. Her hat is decorated. The waistcoat is cut straight.

The skirt hangs to the ground in pleats. then draped towards the The cuirasse bodice is cut slightly higher at the hips to make room back. is straight in front. The hat is decorated with birds. tight sleeves. The sleeves are close-fitting down to the wrist The lady on the extreme right is in a close-fitting jacket bodice with a wide turn-back cuff fastened by three buttons. The overskirt with small revers and a deep collar. buttoned from neck to hem. The front of the jacket is long and the back covers bonnet and carrying a parasol. drawn up at the sides. 137 . feathers and ribbons. She is wearing a for the drapery. ttie top of the bustle.

The dress is decorated with ribbon. 138 . The overskirt is draped.130 Ladies in evening gowns. The sleeves are elbow-length. ribbon bows and lace. fringe. The sleeves are elbow-length. and is brushed back to reveal the ears. showing the skirt beneath in a ruffle. The overskirt is drawn up at the sides and draped at the as a wedge piece prettily decorated with lace. The decolletage is square-cut and square-cut decolletage with a frilled collar which is high at filled in surrounded by a deep lace collar high at the back and falling over the back and has a V-shaped front. The coiffure has a back. c. 1887 The lady on the right is wearing the cuirasse bodice with the The other figure is dressed in a cuirasse corset bodice with a plastron in a different colour. ending in a frilled ending frill. the shoulders.

high collar. c. close-fitting to the waist. ^'•* 131 Lady in bustle dress skating costume. down the front and then around the hem. His The sleeves are close-fitting and long to the wrist with a fur cuff. breeches fasten at the knee with three buttons. the high-crowned bowler and suede gloves. 139 . and up at the back over the bustle. 1888 This lady is wearing a hip-length jacket. She is wearing stockings. and which buttons from the neck to with fur around the neck. It has a closed. justbelow the waistline. round. close-fitting sleeves. The man is dressed in the tunic-type hip-length jacket which has long in the front. and he has woollen The skirt is draped with kilted skirts over the bustle. It is trimmed straight. gaiter-type skating boots and an astrakhan round hat.

which is creaseless and come well down over the boots. and a wide turned-down collar and ornamented with straps and buttons. reveals the shirt blouse with jacket fits body and is braided. with the centre panel edged with braid and close to the figure at the waist. 1893 This walking-out dress of the early 1890s has a short jacket fitting bell-shaped skirt. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves are finished off with small. 140 . The gentleman wears the popular lounge suit. The high-buttoned back cuffs. revers.The jacket. c.132 Lady in walking-out dress with Gentleman. The felt hat has a wide brim. He wears the ornamented with ribbon and a stuffed bird with wings. The trousers fairly closely to the are its softly-fitted front. reaches the ground. high starched collar with a large tie. turn. The full popular. open in front.

The high. The skirt of the gown fits closely over the hips and falls in and he has a black silk top hat.133 Walking-out costumes. On his head is the round tam-o'-shanter'. dark stockings and the wrist. centre. The sleeves are full to the elbow. 1894 The lady's jacket is cut to fit closely to the figure. with the high The gentleman wears a high-buttoned frock coat. 141 . The bodice is round collar and short revers. The small bonnet is worn with small ostrich feathers. The trousers are not creased. folds to the ground. with a small 'Officer' stand-fall satin collar and wide satin revers. then tight to The child is dressed in the popular sailor suit. starched cut in the 'Eton' shape and the cambric waistcoat is frilled down the collar is worn with a wide knotted tie. c. ankle-boots. choker-type.

The sleeves are the wide. then tight a velvet sash into which is sewn a concealed pocket containing a to the wrist. 142 . The skirt is bell- two narrow frills at the hem. The bodice is pleated and draping.134 Ladies' evening dresses. 1895 The lady on the right wears a dress with a plain skirt edged with The costume on the left is made of silk and lace. Around the waist is bouffant leg-o'-mutton type. beneath the centre pleat and is caught down each sleeve with a bow. c. It is made in crimpled wool crepon shaped at the bottom and the overskirt is a simple and effective with bands of velvet as ornamentation. The cape covering the shoulders fastens in front sachet to perfume the handkerchief. full to just above the elbow. the square decolletage is trimmed with velvet. A wide ribbon sash is worn.

The high. and come down well over the pleated sleeves. Her beaver hat has a box crown. which finish with elegant cuffs give the required shoes. The black silk top hat and light-coloured suede gloves width to the costume. c. 1895 The lady's costume is in sailcloth. and combined with the jacket cut-away. The with a full. with waistcoat revers and cuffs The gentleman is in a morning coat with short revers fastened ornamented with mother-of-pearl buttons. stiff collar and cravat are still in fashion. The well-cut godet skirt with three buttons above the waist. The skirts are longer and more is popular because of its graceful line.135 Lady and Gentleman in street attire. short basque forms a very fashionable ensemble. 143 . A cane or umbrella is carried with this outfit. complete the outfit. The trousers are creaseless. pin-striped.

It is made in velveteen and lace. with an overdress 'at front have radiating rows of insertions. c. 1895 The dressing gown. is worn by the and ornamented with lace and muslin embroidery. Both back and lady home'. of cashmere. 144 . The bow securing the lace collar is sewn on.136 Lady in lounge gown with children. embroidered the shoulders. The front material is lined throughout and hangs The tall girl on the right is wearing an embroidered frock. yoke. The weight of the gown is suspended from front is set in a double box-pleat up to the square. or lounge gown as it is known. The silk sleeves and undervest are made up on a tight-fitting The smaller child is dressed in a pinafore dress made in muslin lining and they fasten at the back. The loosely down to the feet.

much shorter length of coat for skirt is ornamented at the waist with three cut-steel buttons. Each of the collars fasten at the centre with a are large and loose to make allowance for the puffed frock sleeves group of bows.137 Lady and Girl in summer dresses. Each children in pique with two box pleats back and front. silk bodice. The hat is made of stiffened muslin and decorated. c. The hat is made of muslin and silk. beneath. The The young girlwears the new. 1896 The female costumes in crepon and silk are illustrated here. 145 . Large crepon yoke fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons. The back of the bodice is similar epaulettes are made in the new embroidered cambric. and a square seam has a crossway fold of crepon and shot silk. The sleeves in design to the front. The large collar and sleeves match the full.

1896 This cashmere tea-gown has the 'Stuart' bodice. then taper and fit at the wrists. The sleeves end at the wrists in a frill. The skirt falls to the ground. c. the collar and the sleeves are all sleeves are full-pleated to the elbow. with a a velveteen. waist. The bell-shaped. Her shoes match the colour of her dress. The wide collar terminates in velvet rosettes just below the short-waisted bodice. and the hem. The with three buttons of jet or skirt fastens bosom. embroidered in a lighter silk. The cape collar comes to a point in the centre of the back and is of Oriental silk threaded with gold. on either side of the shoulders and is set off by a satin necklet. close-fitting to the The young girl wears fur-trimmed dress.138 Lady in home gown with young Girl. 146 . The high-necked vest steel.

The collar and neck-tie of satin sets off the The lady on the left has on a gown of cloth with large sleeves to coat nicely. Her hat is fairly flat with a small crown. The skirt is long and decorated sixteen large buttons. 147 . with a plain hem The boat-shaped hat is made of panama straw. The sleeves are cut in a new way. The little velvet coat is length Chesterfield coat.139 Ladies winter costume. piece off the shoulders. at the . just The lady in the background on the right is dressed in a cloth The man wears the still popular silk topper and three-quarter- costume with the bodice cut away in front. 1897 in Illustrated here is the long double breasted overcoat fastened with finished with a basque at the back. above the elbows. c.

Her hair is brushed back. The skirt is trained with lace-trimmed side knees and are spoon-shaped. 1899 The lady is dressed in a corset-like. 148 . and exposing the ears. short sleeves. His waistcoat is single-breasted with panels. dancing shoes with the Louis heel and long evening gloves. c. close-fitting bodice with a round Her male companion is wearing an evening dress coat with a waist. and his trousers are trimmed with braid style. His hair is close-cut with a parting. high on the forehead in the Greek a narrow turn-back. ^ml'\ 'i "^:\ i 140 Lady and Gentleman in evening dress. She has dark coloured stockings and running down each leg. The decoUetage is low and off the shoulder with large and silk-covered revers. The skirts reach just above the plain collar 'balloon'.

149 . high-boned neckline. which up on either side. the full hips and the long sweeping skirt. The waist is very tight and the hips The lady on the left is in the Grecian bend' silhouette style. The sleeves are full from the elbow and are gathered into a slender waist. The neckline is high and boned up the sides under the the loose bodice. This lady is wearing her hair high over pads on her bodice with a deep fichu dipping to a point down the back and over forehead. 1903 The lady on the right is in a morning gown which has a loose. c. It is worn over the straight-fronted corset.141 Ladies in walking-out dresses. the full bosom. Her straw hat has a small crown and a wide brim turned each shoulder. full wristband. the very ears. brings down the bosom line. with accentuated.

142-143 Ladies and Gentleman in outdoor costume. The neck hanging three-quarter flounces. straw hat. is encircled with a high lace collar and falling lace cravat blouse. cut away round to the back. The decolletage is high and the an enormous hat with a large. c. To her left is a lady in a green tailored day dress which is cut close The coat isembroidered with a design in braid. natural-waisted dress tailored coat. The dress is straight to the ground with ornamented close-fitting and straight to the wrist. flat. The straight sleeves end just 150 . are finished off with reveal the close-fitting dress which hangs to the ground. 1909 The young lady on the extreme right is wearing a calf-length The background lady wears a high-necked. She wears a wide. The sleeves are to the figure. The sleeves. neck is encircled with a muslin collar. soft silk crown and a large flat brim. The coat is left open to with a loose-fitting overblouse. The coiffure is covered with fastenings down the right-hand side.

under the bosom to the ground. The neckline is high and has a is collar of small frills. His cloth cap has ear flaps and a small peak. Over her fashionable coiffure she has on a high.above the elbow. The hat she is wearing has a very crowned. Her hair is worn high on The lady on the extreme left is dressed in a day gown with a top. The gentleman in the widely-worn motoring costume in the loosely-cut. A panel of a different material is set in the dress from just 151 . high crown and is decorated with frills. The sleeves taper slightly to just above the dust coat' style. high-waisted bodice. large-brimmed hat. wrists.

152 . c. The hobble skirt is very tight. Striped sleeves which have a turn-back cuff frilled with deep lace and end trousers become closer-fitting towards the bottoms. with a trimming of standing feathers. a small coat. 1912 This lady is attired in a day dress with a bodice draped across the Her gentleman friend is dressed in a single-breasted morning body to form a V-shape. It has a narrow collar and tablier or apron is added as decoration. On her head is a very large-brimmed hat top hat and carries kid gloves and a walking stick. He has a silk just above the elbows.144 Lady and Gentleman in day dress. fastened in front with two buttons. Her bolero jacket has short revers and he is wearing a stiff turn-down collar and a tie.

where they over the long. The hat is made of velvet and large brim turned up straight all round. She is carrying a fancy handbag. The sleeves are close-fitting to the wrists. The Directoire high waistline is accentuated by the belt waisted tunic. 1912 The lady on the right is wearing the draped-over bodice forming a Her friend is also wearing a draped-over bodice and a knee- V-front. which is filled in with a high-necked blouse and high. The hat has a from knee-level to the ankle.145 Ladies in day dresses. c. The skirt is gathered in at knee-level. narrowing the sleeves are long and close-fitting to the wrist. ornamented with feathers. The skirt narrows down to the instep. The blouse is high-necked and flare out slightly. 153 . cut-away overblouse. length tunic. Encircling the waist is a sash.

154 .146 Fashionable costumes. loose-fitting. Her short gloves are made of suede and she carries a turn-down collar are edged with fur. with his strong Oriental influence. design after Poiret. on the left a worn well over the head with the left side higher than the right. 1913 Attached to the brim is a spotted veil which covers the face The main female figure is in a walking-out costume with the long. Her felt hat is hobble skirt with the three-quarter-length overskirt. three-quarter-length caped coat. fur-trimmed jacket and slit at the sides and narrowing towards the ankle. The hem and the completely. outdoor wear: on the right. c. The sleeves end in a fur cuff. The background figures are also in fashionable sash. She is wearing the hobble skirt. At hip-level is a very wide very large fur muff. the 'Zouave'.

tiered. one on either side. pinafore dress. loose-fitting. round-necked. round patch pockets. She The boy wears a single-breasted jacket. isworn with a turned-down soft collar and tie. Both children are wearing boots. The skirt falls to eight inches The young girl is in a short. His trousers are just The lady on the right is wearing an enormous tent-shaped coat knee-length. Her hat has a bowler-shaped crown. pleated bodice with balloon-shaped sleeves and it has large.147 Ladies and Children in day dresses. c. knee-length dress. off the ground. 1915 The lady on the left is clothed in a high-necked. Her hat is small and round with a narrow brim. 155 . Over this she is wearing a two. blouse with long bishop sleeves. His V-necked waistcoat is wearing two-colour high boots buttoned at the side.

The high V-shaped neck is encircled with a large fur collar fitting sleeves with deep cuffs trimmed with buttons and braid. The which is high at the back to cover the shoulders. shaped and surrounded by a wide collar. Straight sleeves skirt hangs down to eight inches from the ground and is trimmed end in fur cuffs. close. The velvet hat has a high costume. two-toned boots. She has high. The bodice is fastened The other lady has on a knee-length coat with a close-fitting down the front and a belt encircles the waist. It has long. 1917 The lady on the right is wearing a loose-fitting tailored day with a pattern of braid and buttons.148 Outdoor costumes. crown and an undulating brim. bodice. c. 156 . The bodice jacket falls to hip level and the neckline isV. Her high-crowned hat is made of felt.

149 Ladies and young Girl in aflernoon dresses, c. 1918
The lady on the left has on a waistless loose-fitting dress above hip- The little girl with the group is attired in a short party dress,
level. The bodice has a natural shoulder line and round neckline. above the knees. The very full skirt, with a triple-
finishing full just
The sleeves are long and kimono shape to the wrists. The skirt is flounced hem, is gathered at the waist which is encircled with a
full at the hips, narrowing at the hem which comes just below the wide ribbon sash. The high, round neck is surrounded with a large
knees.Her hat, decorated overall, fits closely to her head and she is collar coming over the shoulders, and the sleeves are the long,
wearing gloves. bishop type. She is wearing ankle-strap shoes.

157

150 Ladies in coats and dresses, c. 1920-21
The lady on the left is wearing a Russian-style, three-quarter-length round-necked bodice filled in with muslin. It has short kimono
coat with a high, round Cossack neck. The top is slightly fitted, sleeves ending in flounces high at the front. The skirt is full at the

flared slightly at the waist and fastened with buttons down the left- hips, narrowing and elasticated to draw it in tight.
at the ankles

hand side. The and the narrow skirt
sleeves are straight to the wrists Strings of pearls and feathers adorn the hair.
falls to mid-calf. Her crown.
close-fitting hat has a high The figure on the right is attired in a tailored costume with a
The centre figure has on an evening dress which has a loose, low. severe, rather masculine line.

158

Index
Aiglets 9 Cuirass 59
Applique 91 Culottes 83, 84
Aprons 34, 40, 49, 67: with bib 40
Dandy 75
Armour 21, 59
Directoire8, 153
Baldricks 21, 22, 24, 45, 47, 48, 53, 59: silk 26, 29 Doublets 9, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 28, 42: bombasted 17, 18; German
Bandolier 30 16; peascod belly style 10; Venetian 12
Basqum 111, 115, 118 Dress Act 1747 61
Bavolet 111, 113, 115, 117, 122, 127 Dresses see Gowns
Belle epoqueS
Echelles 64, 65
Bertha see Collars
EngageantesllS, 121, 122
Bodices: casaquin 56; cuirasse 133, 134, 137, 138; draped 97, 152,
Epaulettes 38, 84, 86, 120, 127, 145: see also Wings
153; Eton 141; embroidered robings 63; open 11, 62, 64, 68;
Epaulieres 59
pleated 142, 155; Stuart 146; whalebone stiffened 33
Bolero 127, 152
Evening dress 134, 148: see also Gowns
Bombast 8, 17, 18 Fans 17, 19,35, 70,91, 129, 130
Bonnets see Hats Farthingale: French wheel 19; Spanish 9, 15, 25, 41
Boot hose 29, 35 Fichu 71, 73, 97, 149
Boots: bucket top 56, 59; gaiter 101; jackboots 56; jockey 72, 73, Fobs 75, 86
76, 77, 80; military 45; two-toned 155, 156; see also Shoes Footwear see Boots and Shoes
Boys' fashions 9, 19, 22, 23, 31, 37, 52, 111, 114, 119, 124, 125, French farthingale 19
126, 155; sailor suit 141 French revolution 80
Brandenburgs 27, 106 Frogging 54
Brassarts 59 Furbelows 53, 64
Breeches: bloomer 48, 49; cloak bag 23, 31; full pluderhose 30; Gaiter 65, 116
loose 29; of nankeen cloth 78; petticoat 43; Rhinegraves 8; Gardefaude 59
Venetian 12; see also Pantaloons and Trousers Garters 22
Brummell, George Beau' 8, 88 Genouillieres 21
Buff coat see Jerkin, leather Gibson Girl 8
Buffon 74, 75, 79, 81 Girls' fashions 19, 30, 33, 37, 40, 41, 101, 102, 107, 115, 116, 118,
Burnous 117 119, 122, 129, 144, 145, 146, 155, 157
BustlesS, 50, 51,53, 139 Gloves: cotton 92; evening 129, 134; gauntlets 28, 30, 31, 48, 49,
'Butterfly' spur leathers 27 56; kid 95, 96, 104, 152; perfumed 13; riding 57; suede 130,

Canazou 93 139, 143; sweet gloves 15

Cannions 22, 24 Gorget, armoured 20
Capes 98, 105, 114, 116, 142: burnous 117 Gowns: a la francaise 64; a I'anglaise 68; chemise 73, 83; closed

Caps see Hats 59, 76; crinoline 8, 118, 122; court 28, 32, 70; day dresses 115,

Carmagnole jacket 80 116, 119, 121, 126, 130, 132, 150-1, 152, 153, 156; dressing-

Casaquin 56 144; empire style 85, 88, 89, 91; evening 17, 44, 120, 129, 133,

Cavalier fashion 27 134, 138, 142, 148, 158; fourreau see sack back; lounge 144;

Chemissette fill-in 34, 38 mantua style 60; morning dress 111, 149; open-robe 60, 62, 65,

Chokers 9 71, 106; pinafore dress 155; polonaise 70, 129; Princess style

Cloaks 13, 16, 17, 18, 21, 32, 52, 53, 94: French 37; full 43 131; pseudo-Greek 84; redingote 77, 110, 117, 120-1; sack 64;
Clocked stockings 68, 69, 79 sack-back style 67, 68, 69; tea- 146; wedding 27; wrap-over 61;
Coats (men): buff see Jerkin, leather; burnous 117; carmagnole see also Bodices, Skirts and Walking out fashions

jacket 80; Chesterfield 109, 147; dust coat style 151; evening Grecian bend silhouette 149
dress 148; frock coat 72, 73, 79, 102, 112, 141; garrick Guimpe 11

redingote 90; justaucorps 8, 45, 46, 47, 66, 67; morning 114, Habit jacket 136, 137
136, 137, 143, 152; paletot 109, 113, 120, 121; redingote 60, 77, Habit shirt 110, 117
80, 90, 106; reefer jacket 136; short redingote 103; surtout or Hairstyles 20, 74-5: a la conseilleur 79; a la madonna 92; a la
greatcoat 92; tail-coat 88 ninon 44; a la Titus 85, 86; Cadogan 135; confidants 44; Dutch
Coats (women): cassock 35; habit jacket 136, 137; mantelet a 63; fontange 8, 50, 51; fringed 130, 138; Greek style 148; see
pelerine 113; mantelet echarpe 122; pierrot jacket 79; Russian also Wigs
158; spencer 83; Zouave 154 Hand ruffs 12, 14,27
Collars: bertha 32, 36, 38-42, 45, 85, 102, 104, 120; cape 146; Handbags 132, 153
capuchin 78, 87; choker-type 141; cossack 158; double falling Handkerchief 15, 25, 59, 65, 66: buffon style 79
77; falling band 21, 23, 27, 29, 31, 32, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43; falling Hats (men): astrakhan 139; beaver 72, 75, 79; bicorne 84, 91;
whisk 45; golollia 24; high standing 83, 84, 85; Medici 9; boater shape 49; bowler 114; cavalier type 26, 27, 29; copotain
officer' stand fall 141; roll 55, 96; sailor 131; semi-circular 21; 17; Cumberland top hat 105; demi-bateau 86; Kevenhiiller 59;
shawl 105, 109; spreading fan 28; stand-fall 73, 76, 79; standing Phrygian caps 80; sugar-loaf 43; tam o'shanter 141; tricorne 54,
25, 32, 37, 43, 86; vandyke 32; wing 86; see also Ruffs 56, 60, 66, 69, 75; Wellington top hat 100; see also Top hats
Cravats 45, 48, 49, 52, 56, 103, 143: fringed ends 112; muslin 71; Hats (women): bergere 65, 66; boater 126; bongrace 10; bowler
Steinkirk 51, 54, 57; two 82 139; capote 85, 104, 105; caul 14, 16, 19; cavalier 26; chaperone
Crepon 142, 145 hood 35, 39, 40; chimney-pot 77, coif 17, 26, 30, 34; cornet 11,
Crinolines, 118, 122 46, 47; day-cap 30, 34, 40, 118; drawn bonnet 104; Dutch hood

159

89. 59 Steinkirk cravat 51. Madame de 64 Walking out fashions 74-5. 124. kick-up 19. black silk 141. 125. silk 98. 17. goffered 100 72. 44. 64. 138. trews 61. 18. 54. mibecile 101. hand. 48. 28. 141. 85. 113 Pompadour. 54. 133. 133 Wigs (men) 47. 125. 111. 47. 116. 18. 18. 126. 12 Tucker 59. set- Justaucorps 8. starched 101. 119. passe-etroite bonnet 106. hanging 18. ringlets 53. 64. 150-1. 127. 119. tricorne57 draped 135. 137. pagoda 120. Victoria 103. 142. Wenceslas 40 117. 65 Nankeen cloth 78 Swords 19. Wellington 100 Trains 8. 154 Muscadin 73. circular 15. 18 tight curls 52. 36. horizontal rolls 68. 130 147. 132. gaiter 107. 119. 62. 49. 39. parted 78. 121. sugarloaf 34.35. 123. furbelows on 53. 29. Shirt. coat type 123. 71. Cumberland 105. 119. 77 Stomachers 18. oval 34. 24. 99. 84 Stockings: clocked silk 68. top hat 87. 46. 154. 51. 113. 19. 58. bouffant 120. key' shape 127. 20. 39. 121. 102. pattens 30. 106. 45. cannon type 19. 79. funnel-shaped Shawls 44. 15. bouffant gigot hose 142.20 Stole 39 Muffs 34. 43 Modesty piece 59. 11. 96. 130. 69. 78. 16. 114. 22. 133: draped 133. 12. 43. Hoops: bell-shaped 13. 15. 21.39. 53. 63 Pelerine 93. see also Underskirt Undersleeves 9. 18 160 . nether-stocks 14. 52: bag-wig 60. 51. 85. 99. 109. 117. 14. 31: see also Epaulettes Scarf 44. drawn-up Tippet 51. 30. 128. 140. 130. 48. oblong 62. 56. 12 Veil 154 Pierrot jacket 79 Velasquez 25 Pique 145 Verdingale 15 Plaid 61 Vest see Waistcoats Plastron 133. fox fur 25. 129. round kirtle 15. lace 64. 59. 103. mob caps 59. trained 65. Trousers 106. 49. 64. Motoring costume 151 Mouches 50 18. 55. 57: Pompadour 70. Paul 8. 83. see also Breeches and matelot 98. 62. 116. quilted Underskirt 38. kilted 139. 41 Spencer 83 Lounge suit 140 Spurs 56. 36. 140. 97. Skirts: a la retroussee 46. striped 152. 107. 75. castellated 34. 105. 122. 113. godet 143. 53. 23. 104. 134 Whalebone 33 Ruffles 50. 61 Neckerchief 30. campaign 56. 66. 88-9. 27. pluderhose 30. engageantes 118. pin-striped 143. stirrup 42. 39. 94. stand-fall 28. Stocks and Ties Tassets 59 Overdress 11. 30. 64. see also Hairstyles Sailor suit 141 Wings 10. gored 10. 135. 53. 26. 94. 143. 158. 39. half. 102. 121. bottomed 54. Empress 8 kimono 157. open 42. verdingale 15. 41. 130. wrist. 96. Highland costume 61 hobble 152. ankle-strap 157. 21. 71. Top hats 96. 65. 112. Ruffs. 82. Shoes. 35. 112. bow-tie 134 Overskirt 48. 92: a pont 80. Jerkin. 57 Mantilla 127 Masks. 131 93. 126 Trousers: baggy 125. 63. Rubens 132: silk 91. 86. 51. 140. 92. 127. 97. 34. Tuille 59 mantelet echarpe 122. 28. 51. redingote Hollar. braid trimmed 148. milkmaid 65. headkerchief 48. 109: beaver 82. 125 Riding habits 26. see also Trunk bishop style 34. 104-5. 81. 51. pig-tail 66. 25. 24. 126. 41. 143. see also Trains 64. 51. double 100. trimmed en tablier 129. 63: poke bonnet 92. 20. 58. 42. 48. 101. 32. 106. 38 Phrygian hats 80 Vambraces 21 PickadilslO. 81 Tartan screen 61 Neckwear see Cravats. 66. 155. 61. toque liS. 104-5. mantelet a 113. domed 59. 122. see also Wings Slops 12 Knickerbockers 124 Spanish farthingale 9. 137 Pantaloons Patches 50 Trunk hose 9. 87. 25. pocket 59 Sleeves: balloon-shaped 155. Spanish farthingale 9. 97. Pallatine51 148: separate 82. 38. 34. 97. closed 32. 138. 67 back 78. 22. 141. huffon 74. 103. capula 60. 84 Pantalettes 101. crinoline 8. toupee 71 Wigs (women) 54. 9i. 108. round-eared caps 60. see also Boots ruched caps 114. 152. 61 Stock 66. 128 Wedding clothes 27 Rococo 8 Werther mode 76 RuchinglOl. en Pantaloons 43. 75. bell-shaped 115. 109 Wrist ruffs 10. demi-gigot 94. 103. 98. 45. fan-shaped 19. 50. 115 bonnet 94. 22. 135. 57. 30: see also Breeches Paiildrons 21 and Stockings Peascod 10. 44. 66. 100. French wheel farthingale 19. Hose: boot. 68. gigot (leg o' mutton) ]abot 84. 45. 157. oval 68. 86. 93. 63. 104 Umbrelloes 48 Petticoats 45. creaseless 140. 50. see also Parasols 48. pinner 62. Stuart caps 125. full- Ruffs 10. 124. 109: en ailes d'oiseaii 100. 23. 15. 29. 26. taffeta pipkin 12.10. 59. 95. 34. 68. pumps 94. 149. 31 Josephine. 154 Waistcoats 27. 50: see also Petticoats 62. 53. 27. 118. 134. 39 Stirrup hose 42.29. 131. sous pieds 96. 14. 101. 44. leather 12. with echelles64. 100. 65. 11. 48. 114-116. epaulette 38. 47. 60: flounced 57. riding 99. 78. 102. under. tailored 13. 138 Poiret. fanchon bonnet 119. 129.12. 57. 63. matneluke 107. 136. 35. 60. 39. 24. spoon bonnet 124. 154 Rhinegraves 43 Walking sticks and canes 14. 79. French hood 9. 82. Skating costumes 139 Stuart hood 15. 30. 13: cartwheel 17. 93 136. 107. flounced 134. 144 Ties 125. 13. net 108 Pelisse 92.

s w th( In irk .

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 9999 00948 230 6 ILLOSTBATED £NC YCLCPAEDIA CF CCS GI580 C37/1986X 87601^27-79 HV Boston Public Library WASHINGTON VILLAGE BRANCH LIBRARY The Date Due Card in the pocket indi- cates the date on or before which this book should be returned to the Library. . Please do not remove cards from this pocket.

There are 96 costumed full colour figures In all. The selection covers military.' British Army Review Uniforms of tlie American Civil War Philip Haythornthwaite Illustrated by Michael Chappell 'a carefully researched and attractively produced work packed with information. surprising and famous figures. The thirty-two pages of colour illustrations show nearly 1 00 uniformed and battle dress figures from around the world. French and Indian. British. special weapons and dangerous missions undertaken by the special forces lends them a romanticism which sets them above their fellow soldiers.Blandford Press publish a wide range of titles on uniforms and dress. Australia West Street Sterling Publishing Co. Uniforms of the American Revolution John Mollo Illustrated by Malcolm McGregor 'a full range of exceptionally good and most attractive coloured illustrations covering all the forces. para-military and civil organisations and includes a number of rare.Some recent titles Include Medieval Military Dress 1066-1500 Christopher Rothero The author has painted and described some 96 figures covering the entire Medieval period. German. inc. Involved. Lane Cove NSW 2066. Blandford Press Capricorn Link (Australia) Ltd LinkHouse PO Box 665. American. Not only are the armoured knights included but so is the attire of the common soldier and peasant.' Sword and Lance German Uniforms of the Third Reich 1933-1945 Brian Davis Illustrated by Pierre Turner Illustrates in full colour 240 uniforms from this fascinating period of history. colourful insignia. Uniforms of the Elite Forces Thompson and Michael Chappell Leroy The distinctive uniforms. Poole 2 Park Avenue. New York Dorset.. UK .

ISBN D-7137-lflll-D 780713"718119' .