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© Lonely Planet Publications

17

Contents
On the Road 4 Getting Around
AROUND VIENNA
158
160
Klosterneuburg 160

Austria Highlights 5
Lower Austria 162
History 163
Destination Austria 20 Climate 163
Getting There & Away 164
Getting Around 164
Getting Started 21 THE DANUBE VALLEY 164
Getting Around 164
Driving Tour of the
Itineraries 26 Danube Valley
Krems an der Donau
164
167
Around Krems 170
History 29 Dürnstein
Spitz
171
172
Melk 172

The Culture 41 Tulln
ST PÖLTEN
173
174
History 174

Food & Drink 59 Orientation & Information
Sights
174
174
Sleeping 176
Eating & Drinking 176
Environment 69 Entertainment 176
Getting There & Away 176
Around St Pölten 176
Outdoor Activities 74 MOSTVIERTEL 177
Getting There & Away 177
WALDVIERTEL &
Walking in Austria 82 WEINVIERTEL
Getting There & Away
177
178
Drosendorf 178
Vienna 111 Nationalpark Thayatal
MARCH-DONAULAND
178
178
History 112
Carnuntum 178
Orientation 112
Nationalpark Donau-Auen 180
Information 112
WIENERWALD 180
Sights 124
Getting There & Away 180
Activities 136
Baden bei Wien 180
Walking Tour 137
SÜD-ALPIN 184
Vienna for Children 138
Wiener Neustadt 184
Tours 139
Semmering 186
Festivals & Events 141
Schneeberg, Raxalpe
Sleeping 141 & Höllental 187
Eating 145
Drinking 149
Entertainment 152 Burgenland 188
Shopping 155 Eisenstadt 190
Getting There & Away 158 Around Eisenstadt 192

18 CONTENTS

NEUSIEDLER SEE 193 The WESTERN CARINTHIA 305
Rust
Mörbisch am See
193
194
Salzkammergut 245 Gmünd
Spittal an der Drau
305
305
Purbach am See 195 BAD ISCHL 247 Millstätter See 307
Neusiedl am See 196 SOUTHERN
SALZKAMMERGUT 249
Podersdorf am See 196
Seewinkel 197
Hallstätter See 249 Hohe Tauern
Hallstatt 250 National Park
MIDDLE & SOUTHERN
BURGENLAND
Lockenhaus & Around
197
197
Obertraun
Gosausee
252
254
Region 310
Bad Aussee 254 Zell am See 312
Güssing & Around 198
NORTHERN Krimml 317
SALZKAMMERGUT 256 Gerlos Pass 318
Upper Austria 199 Traunsee
Gmunden
257
257
Grossglockner Road
Heiligenblut
318
319
Linz 200 Traunkirchen 259 Bad Gastein 320
AROUND LINZ 209
Ebensee 259 Around Bad Gastein 323
St Florian 209
Grünau 259 Lienz 323
Mauthausen 210
Attersee 259
THE TRAUNVIERTEL 210
Steyr 211
Wolfgangsee
St Wolfgang
260
260
Tyrol 329
Bad Hall 213 Innsbruck 331
St Gilgen 261
Nationalpark Kalkalpen 213 AROUND INNSBRUCK 343
Mondsee 262
Kremsmünster 213 Hall in Tyrol 343
Wels 214 Wattens 344
THE MÜHLVIERTEL 215 Salzburg & Schwaz 344
Freistadt 215 Salzburger Land 264 Stubai Glacier 345
Kefermarkt 216 SALZBURG 266 Seefeld 345
THE INNVIERTEL 217 AROUND SALZBURG 283 NORTHEASTERN
Braunau am Inn 217 Hellbrunn 283 TYROL 346
Schärding 217 Untersberg 283 The Zillertal 346
Geinberg 218 Gaisberg 283 Zell am Ziller 347
Hallein 283 Mayrhofen 348
Ginzling 350
Styria 219 Werfen
SOUTHERN SALZBURG
285
Achensee 350
Graz 221 PROVINCE 286 Kitzbühel 350
AROUND GRAZ 234 Liechtensteinklamm 286 Kufstein 354
Österreichischen Filzmoos 286 Söll 355
Freilichtmuseum 234 Radstadt 287 WESTERN TYROL 356
Bundesgestüt Piber 234 Mauterndorf 287 Stams 356
Bärnbach 235 The Ötztal 356
SOUTHERN STYRIA
Styrian Weinstrassen
235
236 Carinthia 288 Imst
Ehrwald
358
358
Deutschlandsberg 236 Klagenfurt 289 Landeck 359
Grossklein 236 CENTRAL CARINTHIA 295 The Inntal 360
Ehrenhausen 236 Wörthersee 295 The Paznauntal 360
Riegersburg 237 Villach 297 ARLBERG REGION 361
NORTHERN STYRIA 237 Around Villach 300 St Anton am Arlberg 362
Mariazell 238 Hermagor 301
Bruck an der Mur 240 EASTERN CARINTHIA 301
Leoben 241 Friesach 301 Vorarlberg 366
Eisenerz 242 Gurk 302 Bregenz 368
Nationalpark Gesäuse 243 Hüttenberg 302 Dornbirn & Around 372
Admont 243 St Veit an der Glan 303 Bregenzerwald 373
WEST STYRIA 244 Burg Hochosterwitz 304 Feldkirch 374
Murau 244 Maria Saal 304 Bludenz 376

© Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 19

Montafon 378
Western Arlberg 379 Language 411 Index 425
Directory 380 Glossary 419 GreenDex 436
Transport 395 The Authors 421 World Time Zones 438
Health 407 Behind the Scenes 422 Map Legend 440

Regional Map Contents
Upper Austria
p200 Vienna
pp114-15
Lower Austria
p163

The Burgenland
Salzkammergut p189
p246

Styria
Vorarlberg Tyrol p220
p367 Salzburg &
p330 Salzburger Land
Hohe Tauern p265
National Park
Region
p311
Carinthia
p289

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© Lonely Planet Publications
20

Destination Austria
Let’s say you wake one morning in Austria and make your way bleary-eyed
to a newspaper stand. What you see in the press will probably be at odds
with this country you imagine: nothing about those idyllic mountain lakes
or spectacular snow-dusted peaks, or even a picture of sweaty mountain
bikers in centrifugal frenzy on a windswept forest trail. You are more likely
to be greeted by the news that Austrian farmers are dying out, that state
finances have been squandered on 18 Eurofighter jets, the ruling coalition
government lacks true leadership, and that Austria’s youth is guzzling itself
comatose on alcopops. Maybe on another page, you see a picture of a some-
how familiar politician holding up what looks like a town signpost.
It’s no surprise that beautiful landscapes rarely get a showing in the
national press – not unless they’re being threatened, at any rate. What may
strike you, though, is that these are not issues that break a country’s back.
Austria has invested a lot into political and social calm. The result
today is that while some countries lack direction, Austria is flying ahead
with the continent’s highest growth rates and standard of living. It has
weird architecture, a buzzing capital with an even weirder dialect, and
the tendency small countries sometimes have to occasionally drive them- FAST FACTS
selves into strange mental and cultural landscapes. Part of this quality of
life also comes from the wonderful physical landscape and opportunities Population: 8,281,950
outdoors. Meanwhile, it has a 50th anniversary of neutrality under its GDP: €257.9 billion
belt, and in that same year (2005) Austria joined the European Com- Inflation rate: 1.8%
munity while still officially staying neutral.
The death of former president and UN secretary Kurt Waldheim in Unemployment rate:
2007 did, however, give cause for retrospection. Waldheim had been at 6.3%
the centre of an international uproar in the 1980s after it was alleged he Growth rate: 2.7%
knew about or participated in war crimes during WWII. He died with- Median net income per
out ever understanding how he had suddenly become a world issue. For year: €16,626
Austria, he symbolised a generation of silence post-WWII.
On the political stage, in 2007 a grand coalition between the Sozial- Number of dogs in
demokratische Partei Österreichs (SPÖ; Social Democrats) and the con- Austria: 560,000
servative Österreichische Volkspartei (ÖVP; Austrian People’s Party) Percentage overweight
was revived, this time under the tutelage of SPÖ’s Chancellor Alfred or obese: 43.3% women
‘Gusi’ Gusenbauer. The previous incarnation had lasted 13 years (1987 & 57.7% men
to 2000) and was followed by international controversy when a conserva-
tive government took over the reins with the support of the right-wing
Freiheitliche Partei Österreichs (FPÖ; Austrian Freedom Party), at that
time strongly influenced by populist Jörg Haider.
Haider himself fell out with his own party and headed a new one, the
Bündnis Zukunft Österreich (BZÖ; Alliance Future Austria). Today, he
and his party, which is the dominant partner in a ruling coalition in
Carinthia, are at the centre of the so-called Ortstafelstreit (locality sign
conflict). This conflict dates back to an article in Austria’s 1955 State
Treaty recognising Slovenian and Croatian as official languages in regions
with substantial minorities, and it is the one issue today that jeopardises
neutral Austria’s amicable relations with its neighbours.
Which brings us back to our bleary-eyed jaunt to the newspaper stand.
Grab a newspaper, retire to a coffee house, tolerate your aloof waiter if
he’s Viennese, maybe get prickly with him at your own peril, get excited
and do what Austrians everywhere seem to make a pastime out of – enjoy
this quality of life that is Austria.

with low rainfall. 21 Getting Started When it comes to planning for your trip. the once – visitors spend Austrian countryside is noticeably cheaper than Vienna. and visitors should be prepared for all temperatures there. You’ll find cities less crowded in winter and (except in ski resorts and over Christmas and Easter) hotel prices lower. In terms of budgets. and catching a distance train or bus will require just a quick check of timetables. by visitors are Vienna. January and February. including the opera. With the exception of ski resorts such as Lech and Kitzbühel. especially in December. Alpine resorts See Climate Charts (p383) are very quiet or close down from late April to mid-June. Winter can bite hard. almost all towns have a very good range of accommodation options – from the cheapest to four-star hotels or the occasional five-star- spangled option. and in November for average temperatures and early December. which means the amount of advance preparation you need to do in order to ensure access to cash. even if you’ve set a tight schedule. €7 billion spent by modation costs). An evening meal with a glass of wine or beer costs about €15 to €20. Summer falls between June and August and has the highest temperatures. If you are travelling alone on midrange abroad. with the high season over Christmas and New Year and in February. Vienna is cheaper than London. although it can get bitingly cold. but ski conditions also make terms of overnight stays Austria a fantastic place for winter breaks. Seasons are distinct. but quite often the most comfortable temperatures. Nor do you need to spend much time plan- ning how to get from A to B. For warm weather. Zürich or Rome. compared to the Accommodation will be your most expensive item (see p380 for accom. the Spanish Riding School and the Vienna Boys’ Choir. Prices for a lunch special are around €6 to €9. though the eastern Austria’s major cities. similar to Munich. Winter sports are in full swing from mid-December to late March. COSTS & MONEY Compared to other European cities. WHEN TO GO Visiting Austria at any time of year is a great experience. The distances between sights are usually easily manageable by foot or a short ride. Salzburg and Innsbruck. Summer is the obvious time for provincial capitals in hiking. or to special dietary and other personal needs. but remember that The three most popular the season will influence what you can do. and precipitation in Austria lies within the Central European climatic zone. Britons €13 billion each year in and Americans will probably find things very affordable. Festivals take place year-round. Museum entry is €5 to €7 in most cases (though . Consequently. but also the highest levels of rainfall. expect to pay about €50 to €60 per night (with breakfast) in a hotel.50. although these two months can be changeable. mountain biking and lake swimming. The Alps have high precipitation. when temperatures can also climb to un- comfortable levels and many famous institutions close down. Overall. June and September are often the best times for city trips. hot summers and mild winters. but it can be significantly reduced if you use hostels or Austrians travelling share in twin rooms and doubles. Infrastructure and services are excellent. is minimal. See p380 for more accommodation information. options. Paris. Austria. Austria is a breeze. Spring and autumn bring changeable weather. while a day pass on public transport in cities averages about €4. Crowds and prices peak in the July and August high season. and more expensive than Prague or Don’t spend it all at Budapest. short sum- mers and long winters. but the majority of music festivals are held between May and October. aim for the months between April and October. part of the country has a Continental Pannonian climate.

This study of the golden city Sleeping & Eating Check out www. though. when from €45 TRAVEL LITERATURE the awkward-to-travel Mostviertel solves the problem by offering free use over 200. Austrians are very much aware of ecology issues. There you can read around gives an insight into Austria between the world wars. everyday toiletries (buy them in implementing its own sustainability plan. even more bountiful are those serving local produce. as always. With such a large tourism indus- a Drogerie or supermarket. The website also allows you to calculate your carbon emissions the way. you Fermor’s trilogy detailing his epic and inspiring walk from the Hook of can get around this by planning a weekday trip. 22 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re lonelyplanet. descend upon the venues. see p396.schloss in the early and mid-1930s is certainly nostalgic but still manages to tell it Austria is on the move in regard to ecofriendly accommodation. Once inside the country. such as one proposal to set up donation boxes in Austrian In Danube. In €1 to €1. ing those on the big issues of winter sports in the Alps and the impact of tourism. Edward Crankshaw combines travel literature and historical detail in Want to stay in a castle? Vienna: The Image of a Culture in Decline. travel responsibly and enjoy the magic independent travel Polite servitude. and Kafka. This heartbreaking autobiography details one family’s fate at the hands you can help by disposing of recyclable materials separate from the rest of the Nazis. Taking these into account. or a phrase book – a little goes a long way (p411). festival is the Salzburg Double room in pension Tulln has a free city bicycle scheme (p173) and Waidhofen an der Ybbs in Festival in summer. Written 40 years after his feet took One of the best sources of information about carbon offsetting in Austria is him along the Danube Valley and through Vienna. If you’re fit or have the time. Restaurants serving organic foods are plentiful in so many were forever changed from one day to the next. From London. this is the land of mountains and lakes. buy this can reduce your footprint by about 90% or more compared to plane Heurigen/Buschenshank your drinks from supermarkets. you should be able to manage on about €70 or €80 per day. Along with seven other countries it has signed up to the Alpine Convention to promote sustainable development in the Alps. Double-checking the visa situation and your passport expiry date (p392). not a pharmacy) as well as splurges.co. friendly practices. Italian eye over the length travel agencies so travellers can make a direct donation to a carbon offset. like it is. and markets Stefan Zweig’s The World of Yesterday is an extraordinary account of always have at least one stall selling organic produce. a nifty bicycle rental scheme in summer will help Austria’s most popular to €15 and activities. Austria. Austrians love their greetings. you’ll need to pick and choose the sights to do in one grab. however. committed suicide in 1942 on DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… completion of the book.50 in cities. is Last Waltz in Vienna: The Destruction of a Family 1842–1942. On the whole. If you this guide we’ve included two driving tours. you get home from late-night clubbing on an ecofriendly footing (p159). while also many are cheaper and a few €12 or more).at.000 people A 24-hour ticket on Austria is still waiting for its definitive travel description because most writers of mountain bikes for up to a week. a time when intellectual brotherhood tried to stop at the back of this book lists many establishments with environmentally the destruction of Europe. plus transportation will also need to be budgeted. and the local economies. and naturally spends ting scheme. owners take them everywhere. Good hiking boots and a swimming suit. in Vienna. the first volume of Patrick Leigh hiring locally. the contribution of individuals travelling in the country can also make and luxuries. pleases and thank yous (p413). Lonely Planet has encouraged our readers to A spattering of the language. Since our inception in 1973.’ the Danube (a leaky tap in a remote mountain farmhouse. Getting to Austria by train or bus is easy from within Europe. Achtel (wine) at a If you’re on a tight budget and choose to stay in hostels. ecofriendly fittings. It’s all that more poignant considering Zweig. In Vienna. blow-outs try. tread lightly. the issue locally. providing a fine backdrop for your journey. His sharp.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet. For more information on reducing carbon footprints. you can do exactly the same Wiener schnitzel €8 you visit carefully. TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY Organising a good health-insurance policy (p387). and family deals often apply. Claudio Magris passes an erudite. Vienna’s public transport focus on its rich cultural heritage rather than the trials and tribulations of Using public transport is another obvious alternative – and easy because €5. eat cheaply. includ- A curling tattoo across your lower back – Arschgeweih (ass antlers) are still almost cool. and any gaps in local networks can be plugged by taking along a bicycle or A superb starting point is A Time of Gifts. avoid using cars when it’s not necessary. remains which everyone knows time in Austria. . ‘Austria is a labyrinth in of the Danube in his travel journal from the mid-1980s. and we still firmly believe in the benefits it can bring – but. about Getting There & Around Deerskin Lederhose €600 €125 per day is realistic. titles. The Greendex (p436) fin de siècle Vienna. Holland to Constantinople in 1933–34. Some hotels have low-allergy. International travel is growing at a jaw-dropping rate. Using hotels. it’s a superb read and an insight into how the ordinary lives of in your hotel room.70 the everyday traveller.at. Although using buses becomes a problem on Sundays.myclimate. evocative tale the German-language website www. and walk rather than use public transport travel. as sights are otherwise difficult want to go below that budget level. we encourage you A good relationship with dogs. Whether this proposal can be implemented. including bars and to consider the impact your visit will have on both the global environment restaurants. or have sound waste management principles. at almost €350 for The Big Trip itinerary (p26) with side trips by public HOW MUCH? transport but excluding city transport. water wisely (and towels more than once) is where you can make the Arguably the best account of Jewish life in Vienna between the world wars biggest contribution. this rich. it’s so good in Austria.com/hotels G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l l i n g R e s p o n s i b l y 23 who had been forced into exile by the Nazis. There are a few very interesting ones around. affords. individual style tackles topics like the source of to be seen. We arrived a big difference (see p85). Students and children get discounts for some museums tours by bicycle. cultures and ecosystems. by George serve organic breakfasts. according to from a flight and buy a myclimate ticket online (London to Vienna is €6) KABARE T T ARTIST HELMUT QUALTINGER (1928–86) one sedimentologist) and larger-than-life characters such as Wittgenstein to offset your footprint. Trains run through some beautiful and isolated spots. Clare.

Sure. These are some favourites. July 10 Wörthersee Festspiele (Klagenfurt. in German) has a small list of companies committed to the concept.gv. For the low down.24 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 lonelyplanet.austria. 4 Foreigners Out! (2002) directed by Paul Poet Lonely Planet (www. say. June and July 8 Halleiner Stadtfestwoche (Hallein City Music (p229) Weeks). foodstuffs and the environment.nachhaltigkeit.org) US-based site with current affairs and lithography. www. links to Austrian sites and 10 Der Bockerer (1981) directed by Franz Antel reports from fellow travellers on the Thorn Tree. Wöthersee and August (p370) Festival). but the government website 3 Night Games: And Other Stories and 9 Vienna Coffeehouse Wits.at/english/administration/civilstatus/wedding/dreamwedding. locations.com lonelyplanet.austria. the typewriter 7 Dog Days (2001) directed by Ulrich Seidl Austrian Press & Information Service (www. Other Austrians 1 The Edukators (2004) directed by Hans 6 Siegfried (1924) directed by Michael Haneke Austrian National Tourist Office (www. S Hun getting married in Vienna is kitsch. July (p377) Festival).info) The perfect introduction to Austria in a invented the sewing Weingartner number of languages. with lots of information about sustainability and MUST-SEE FILMS the Alps. 6 Salzburger Festspiele (Salzburg Festival).lonelyplanet. an Art Nouveau cabin on the 65m-high Ferris wheel in Prater.wien.html).at (in German) is also good place 10 Burning Secret and Other Stories by to explore sustainability in Austria. Austrian Federal Government (www. with facts and figures on all aspects of life in Austria. See p56 for more details.tiscover.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 25 Switz erlan V ienn d AU S a Slo va GET HITCHED IN STYLE TOP 10 TRIA k ia This is probably going to set the father of the bride back €1000. Reed 9 The Sissi Trilogy (1955–57) directed by Austro Search (www.com) General facts on Austria. but others appear in the Directory chapter (p385) and throughout this book. where couples can tie the knot. 1 Wiener Festwochen (Vienna Festival Weeks). machine. 5 Funny Games (1997) directed by Fritz Lang and Rainer C Ecke Statistik Austria (www. One of the best ways to do a bit of pre-departure planning is to curl up on a sofa with a bowl of popcorn and press play. 2 The Third Man (1949) directed by Carol 8 Lovely Rita (2001) directed by Ernst Marischka and links to a range of topics. The Austrian Business Council for 5 Cutting Timber by Thomas Bernhard Stefan Zweig Sustainable Development (ABCSD.at) The government’s official number-crunching site. For that he’ll cover the local registry costs and the expense of hiring a staggeringly romantic venue.austrosearch. 1 Measuring the World by Daniel 6 Setting Free the Bears by John Irving Kehlmann 7 Radetzky March by Joseph Roth Resources 2 Lust by Elfriede Jelinek 8 Man Without Qualities. 4 Play of the Eyes by Elias Canetti The internet portal www. late June to mid-August (p293) .abcsd. That might be. but it’s an idea that seems to have taken off. Vol 1 by Robert Musil Websites in English are few and far between.gv. These flicks range from the best-known films about Austria to the INTERNET RESOURCES An Austrian was the first cheesiest. May and June (p141) July and August (p274) 2 Musikwochen Millstatt (Millstatt Music 7 Lange Nacht der Museen (countrywide. October (p141) 5 Bregenzer Festspiele (Bregenz Festival).cipra.at does have a large section in English covering Novellas by Arthur Schnitzler Bernhard Harold B Segel (ed) sustainability in forestry.statistik.lebensministerium. as well as the Danube and four other ‘landscape’ page-turners have won critical acclaim in Austria and abroad. seven ‘locations’ There’s no better way to get a sense of place than by immersing yourself in a good book – these (which include a city tram or the Hotel Sacher). Milka 9 Viennale (Vienna International Film Chocolate Festival). or the west wing of Lower Belvedere palace (with ‘a splendid outlook on the Upper Belvedere as the local spin doctors put it). four sights (including the Ferris wheel). water. on a ship.austria. See p55 for more. September (p141) 3 Styriarte (Graz). Austrian is never short of a good festival – you can always count on some kind of celebration going on around the country. with plenty of information and links. Tiscover (www.at. or look into the AlpMedia website (www.at) Gateway to various ministries of the person to put a propeller Austrian government.com) Useful site for information on the provinces. September (p284) 4 Milka Schokoladenfest (Bludenz. BEST READS The city council offers seven palaces. comes complete with OUR FAVOURITE FESTIVALS & EVENTS online booking facilities. May to September (p309) Night of the Museums). 1890–1938 by www. see the council’s website (www .at) Exhaustive online directory of Austrian businesses and 3 Amadeus (1984) directed by Milos Forman Jessica Hausner organisations. Long Weeks).org).

Also try to take in the views culture and sharp Spend several days in Vienna (p111) before catching a train to Neusiedl am and church at Maria Taferl (p166). cultural highlight and gateway into town life. and Salzburg (p266). Dürnstein (p171) is especially good for splurging in top-notch hotels. from where you make your way to Eisenerz (p242). bars and river of Carinthia. The trail to Steyr (p211) will large cities Boat over to medieval Mörbisch am See (p194) and Rust (p193). After that. From here zip across to the pistes or trails of Kitzbühel (p350). faithful to their knees. Gmunden (p257) bus/road route does the whole on the Bodensee. lake refreshing lakes (p221). bussing to St Gilgen (p261) on the Wolfgangsee (p260) city again. and wine. Kids will enjoy the zoo and Tyrolerhof there too. Krems an CLASSIC ROUTES der Donau (p167) is one highlight in a region that flows with wine and good living. The route from here leads west along the Danube Valley (p164). to Innsbruck (p331). and spectacular capitals. food and to Bad Ischl (p247). and Graz (p221). where you can culture. rolling into the Hallstätter See (p249) region. capital city and arguably its most chilled-out. It’s and hike rugged a 200km rail journey from Graz to Hallstatt (p250). to the Austrian the Danube Valley (p164). back to Vienna. Austria’s second-largest mountain. 26 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 27 CITIES & LANDSCAPES Two Weeks / Vienna to Innsbruck Itineraries Wake up bright and early in Vienna (p111) and visit the palace and gardens of Schloss Schönbrunn. and continue to Klagenfurt (p289). a spectacular hilltop town that brings the Take in the See (p196) and taking a bus to Nationalpark Neusiedler See-Seewinkel (p197). bathe in Wiener Neustadt (p184). Melk (p172) and pretty Krems an der Donau (p167) heartlands. Rail across the Semmering Pass (p186) towards Graz with its larger-than-life mines. Bregenz (p368). though less spectacular. Gmunden Taferl be Seewinkel nu Da alley SALZBURG Traunsee V Neusiedl am See St Gmunden Eisenstadt SALZBURG Gilgen Wiener Neustadt Rust Hallstatt Eisenerz Bad Ischl Bregenz Wolfgangsee Semmering Mörbisch am Kitzbühel Hallstätter Hallstätter Pass See See Leoben Kitzbühel See INNSBRUCK Innsbruck GRAZ GRAZ Spittal an der Drau Villach Garnitzenklamm Klagenfurt Wörthersee . Lively and cultural sights. the next stop. where train lines run to Hallstätter See (p249). continu- and the provincial ing to Schloss Esterhäzy in Eisenstadt (p190) before getting on a train to restore the rural flavour. After taking in its restaurants. Styria’s relaxed capital. just a few buses) one of Austria’s premier ski resorts. head to Salzburg (p266). Swing northeast to Spittal an der Drau (p305) and via Kitzbühel 1500km route that (p350) towards Innsbruck (p331) for some Tyrolean days. is another side trip. The road or railway continues west to Linz (p200) – lifestyles in Vienna an industrial city with exciting museums. Wind from the capital by train or road via Gmunden (p257) to Linz (p200) on the Danube and via take your choice between culture or hiking trails. will immerse you in the fine taste of to the lakes region. and Spitz (p172) has a low-key atmosphere and some enjoyable hikes Experience high THE BIG TRIP One Month / Vienna to Vienna through vineyards and forest to castle ruins. as does a side trip to Hermagor’s Garnitzenklamm mountains on a spend a few hours in Leoben (p241) to visit the MuseumsCenter before 1000km rail and (p105) gorge. and the Traunsee (p257). you might feel ready for the open country again. but along the way landscapes on a Villach (p297) beckons. Krems an Dürnstein der Donau Krems an der Spitz Donau LINZ be VIENNA nu LINZ Da alley Melk Maria V Nationalpark Steyr VIENNA Neusiedler See. which offers great swimming in the Wörthersee (p295). will call you gently back that includes a hog by train (and From Innsbruck.

MOUNTAINS & VALLEYS Three Weeks / Vienna to Innsbruck Across picturesque From Vienna (p111) drive or take the train or bus north to the tiny Czech border town of Drosendorf (p178). near Mayrhofen (p348) with great activities. but this route continues town. the and bus/road route perfect spot to begin exploration of the Mostviertel by bicycle. and remote parts. 28 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d ROADS LESS TRAVELLED MEADOWS. Austria’s highest peak. From gouged valleys and here. especially the lower-key regions on the south bank. the route runs south through the often neglected Waldviertel (via Retz over precarious. (A side trip from Hieflau goes to Eisenerz. Swing south parks. An alternative is to go from Mittersill via Kitzbühel (p350) to Innsbruck. Make your way to Waidhofen an der Ybbs (p177. includes a fortress At Selzthal a side trip to Graz (p221) is an option. via Melk and Amstetten if using rail and bus).) The route closely follows the course of the Enns River to Gstatterboden. waterfalls by road from there to Grossglockner (p318). From here continue south to Lienz (p323) before swinging northwest peaks between to Mittersill. and bus or drive on to Heiligenblut (p319) and its pilgrimage church. which will provide a spectacular viaduct ideal for striking for the next section of the route. Innsbruck. Explore the Danube on a side this 900km rail trip. continue by road to Hardegg and the Nationalpark Thayatal (p178). and Horn if on train or bus) to Schloss Rosenburg (p177) and Krems an der Donau windswept passes – (p167) for a shot of culture and good living. in the Hohe and the highest Tauern range. It continues to Admont (p243). and on to Innsbruck (p331). gateway to the Nationalpark Gesäuse (p243). Drosendorf Nationalpark Thayatal Schloss Rosenburg Krems an VIENNA der Donau Waidhofen an der Ybbs Nationalpark Gesäuse Admont Eisenerz Kitzbühel INNSBRUCK Zell am See Mittersill Zell am Ziller Grossglockner Mayrhofen (3797m) Krimmler GRAZ Wasserfälle Heiligenblut Lienz . out into even more p242. where you can peek at the Benedictine Abbey. to view the ore mines. national along the Enns Valley before heading west to Zell am See (p312). After walking around its medieval town farmland. west via the spectacular Krimmler Wasserfälle (p317) to Zell am Ziller Vienna and (p347). Continue south takes in places on rail or road to the Enns Valley. into wall.

KERRY WALKER There’s something special about a place that. and incense hangs in the air. p238).‘Do the right thing with our content. © Lonely Planet Publications 4 5 On the Road © Lonely Planet Publications. See full author bios page 421 . I went up to Bürgeralpe. pretty forest hiking and the glistening Erlaufsee (Lake Erlauf. In other words. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying Mariazell (p238) in Styria is an unusual town in that it’s Austria’s most important place of pilgrimage. for all its beauty. the local peak. some highly atmospheric clouds and Erlaufsee. stalls outside the basilica ped- dle devotional objects. or resell it. I think this photo captures the ‘other side’ of Mariazell: the backdrop of low mountains. remains untouched. non-commercial purposes only. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal. Leaving the tumult around the basilica.’ Wayfaring pilgrim-hikers clack to its basilica with Nordic walking stocks. I sat beside a cool snowfield at the summit and watched shafts of light pick out the contours of the Northern Limestone Alps. To make it easier for you to use. access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. The Tennengebirge (p97) in Salzburger Land is one of those rare places. In return. please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site. It was breathtaking in every sense of the word. This karst plateau is a lonely wilderness of otherworldly rock formations. rippling across to Germany. mass email it to ANTHONY HAYWOOD Coordinating Author everyone you know. the above . Exhausted yet exhila- rated. Not to be forgotten though are its couple of good mountain-bike trails. The ascent was tough going: a dizzying 1000m scramble in the sweltering midday sun. sheer precipices and rounded heights.

How did it happen and how did it all change over time? To really understand this. flourishing culture. the more-accessible plains and Danube Valley in Lower Austria developed into early showplaces of civilisation.000–25. riving tribes: the Germanic Alemanni in Vorarlberg. Afterwards we take a trail through themes of post-WWII neutrality (Neutral. 30. Gradually an Illyric–Celtic kingdom took shape. that stretched from eastern Tyrol to the Danube and eastern fringes of the Alps in Carinthia. who crossed the Alps in force in 15 BC and settled south Discover more about the of the Danube River. The Romans. Flavia Solva (Leibnitz in Styria). They were virtually impenetrable for human and beast. When the Celts settled in the late Iron Age (around 450 BC) they also chose the valley of the Danube River and salt-rich regions around Salzburg. carved up these regions into administrative areas and history of Austria from built fortresses (Limes) and towns such as Carnuntum (p178). Aguntum (p325) and Virunum the EU in The Austrians: A (north of Klagenfurt). leaving a vacuum that was filled by newly ar- Gordon Brook-Shepard. its monarchy ruled an empire that spanned continents and was once the last word in politics and high culture. to the country’s entry into p266). However. old buxom beauty. Vindobona the Babenbergs through (the forerunner of Vienna). are crafted – women ask to be impregnated Around 450 BC Celts arrive in both are now in Vienna’s with his frozen sperm. known as Noricum. Jewry (Jewish History in Austria) and for- eign invasion of its territory (The Enemy at the Gate). the Venus several Austrian and Italian where settlers work salt mines. The Bavarians proved to be the most successful. Ötztal. Nice & Not Guilty). culminating in one of the world’s most enduring family dynasties (Keeping it in the Family – the Habsburgs). creating a large German-speaking territory. Civilisations & Empires is therefore where this history starts. uprisings (To the Barricades).000 years ago. and Bavarians who settled south of the Danube in Upper and Lower Austria. the region and build on this Naturhistorisches Museum. It’s therefore not surpris- ing that while mammoths were lumbering across a frozen landscape. the Western Empire created by the Romans Thousand Year Odyssey by collapsed in the 5th century.000-year. encountering Illyrians who had wandered there from the Balkan region. Juvavum (Salzburg.000-year-old Venus The Neolithic ‘Ötzi’ dies and is The Iron Age Hallstadtkultur of Galgenberg (aka Dancing mummified in a glacier in the (Hallstadt Culture) develops in Fanny) and the 25. of Willendorf. Tyrol and around Salzburg. Slavs who pushed into Carinthia and Styria. CIVILISATIONS & EMPIRES It would be an understatement to say that alpine regions of Austria were inhospitable places during the Ice Age some 30. Brigantium (Bregenz. and by the 7th century they had most regions of Austria in their grip. © Lonely Planet Publications 29 History Although Austria’s territorial heartland has always been modest in size. A visit to the Naturhistorisches Museum in Vienna (p129) contains two fascinating stone Venus statuettes that are reminders of this era. p368). it’s useful to know more about the civilisations and empires that figure in its colourful past.000 BC 5300 BC 800–400 BC The 30. . He’s found in 1991 and the southern Salzkammergut.

to power in Europe. March (still a political fence at that time) was elevated to a duchy (ie with its The Empire was formally buried in 1806 when Napoleon Bonaparte tore through Europe. But revolution and a demo. Leopold III of Babenberg which shored up the eastern edge of his empire. One was created and met (without discreetly downplayed in penetrate Drosendorf’s fortress en route to the battle (p178). the early Habsburgs. died in battle with neighbouring Hungarians The French Revolution of 1789–99 was a political explosion that ushered The roots of Austria’s over a border dispute. with the crowning of Otto I (912–73) as Holy Austria is Saint buffer region in the Danube Valley. . at Waterloo in 1815. Slavic. although Napoleon Volkspartei (ÖVP. In 1338 enough was in the hands of Leopold von Babenberg (940–94). Pippin. provinces of Rhaetia. time includes chunks of he defeats Bohemian Ottokar and Pannonia. Leopold V (1157–94) on the 1246 and Habsburg rule begins Noric tribes. Fate took another decisive turn in 976. inspired by the February 1848 revolution in France. From 15 BC Roman peror. and in 800 he was crowned Kings in the Empire were elected in political horse-trading by a handful of prince electors. Significantly for future Austria. with Italian into a heavyweight under Charlemagne (747–814) and took its inspiration spoils on his hands (one being the present-day Vatican). In 1848. finally. powerful empire in its day. It originated in western France and Belgium. This caused one of the most celebrated clashes in Austrian history Given that ordinary citizens at the time were kept on a short leash by their Social Democratic Party The distended lower jaw when in 1278 the House of Habsburg and Bohemian arch rival Ottokar II political masters. this brought other troubles. In a twist of bad fortune. Partei Österreichs (SPÖ. and without parts of Italy that official portraits. The Babenbergs were a skilful family who in the 11th century In 972. and in 962. grew making him Caesar’s successor. his Austrian People’s the day. These borders (with Vienna). recognise the election to king by prince-electors (see boxed text. a family trait of (who also controlled Styria and Carinthia) fought it out on the Marchfeld. Romania. the Eastern belonged to the Habsburgs. which fell into Baben. Vienna was one of the of 164cm. later dubbed Ostmark (Eastern March). Slovenia. opposite) and in the post-Napoleon Vormärz (Pre-March) years. a descendent of a noble enough. Thus. This had enormous ramifications for future Austria in a new age of republicanism in Europe. Slovenia. moths roamed the frozen wastes and the next important change – the arrival among Hungarians by giving them a large degree of autonomy. bled together in a period of cultural flourish – called the Biedermeier period. 15 BC–AD 600 800 976 & 996 1156 1192 1246–78 The Romans establish relations The Frankish king Charlemagne The Babenbergs are entrusted As consolation for relinquishing Styria is given to Babenberg The last Babenberg dies in with Celts and Celtic-influenced is crowned Holy Roman Em. it was little more than a dim and distant reminder of medieval times. and the electors threw the pope overboard. borders of the Empire included present-day Austria. arising million between 1910 only a modest simplification to say that between the era in which mam. It’s In 1867 a dual monarchy was created in Austria and Hungary. 1278. one Roman Empire and two families well as regions like the Voivodina in Serbia. After WWI. low-rise Napoleon in the early 19th century – Austria had seen Hungarian Empire would grow to include core regions of Austria. Duke Friedrich II. Bavaria. when the Eastern March landed Depending on how feisty the pope happened to be. early human settlers (the ones who carved those Venus statuettes). Germany. residing in Vienna. however. condition that it stays part of when Rudolf I is elected king of occupation begins in the three are routed and disappear. the Habsburgs. out of an attempt by the Habsburgs to hold onto support for the monarchy and 1914. Party) go back to 1887. Austria forever. istic anachronisms like the Holy Roman Empire. Charlemagne The patron saint of from the Romans.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e E m p i re o f t h e H a b s b u r g s 31 THE CAROLINGIANS STRIKE BACK But at this time it was still possible to talk only about tribes. rescued a beleaguered pope and became Patricius Romanorum (Protector of Rome). and a century later Styria (1192) and much of Upper Austria. it’s not surprising that they began to seek new freedoms. gave these to the pope. is situated 30km northeast of Vienna. it all – or what remained of it – In 1156. Germanic that passes into the hands of berg ruler Heinrich Jasomirgott Slovenia and various parts of II in the Battle of Marchfeld in and other tribes later overrun Charlemagne’s successors Otto (1107–77) becomes Austria’s first Lower and Upper Austria. held up while trying to demanded their own parliament (p33). below) by the pope. world’s five largest cities. a Habsburg possession at the time. Poland and the Ukraine. as civilisations (Illyrians and the Celts). and small chunks in northern (the Babenbergs and the Habsburgs) control the land. the pope had to crown the king. This changed in Europe and in Austria itself with the growth of the The Holy Roman Empire was Europe’s oddest ‘state’. not fully fledged AUSTRIA & THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE empires. The Habsburgs survived. and berg hands after a local conflict. peaked at more than two That was pretty much the way things remained for over 500 years. just before Otto I died. the territories. Austrians year later. The title ‘Kaiser’ is derived from ‘Caesar’. This was Europe’s most father. married Friedrich’s widow and in 1273 refused to advance across Europe caused its collapse. The troublesome Avars administer it as margraves. Pippin. ebbed and flowed with the times. but to (1096-1135). two major the Czech Republic. Ottokar II. a Bohemian monarch of was soundly defeated in Leipzig in 1813 and. Sozialdemokratische Rudolf I (1218–91). I (912–73) and Otto II (955–83). ran out of heirs in 1246 when one of its rulers. Österreichische because it led to the catapulting of another noble family. 30 HISTORY •• The Carolingians Strike Back lonelyplanet. in 996 this appears for the first Austria becomes a duchy (Privi. deciding they could elect their own Kaiser. in battle. Its foundations were laid when Charlemagne’s so-called Carolingian Empire in the 6th century. duke. and it challenged surviving feudal. Ottokar. Noricum creating an Eastern March time in a document as Ostarrîchi. cratic parliament failed to endure in Austria. with the Eastern March in 976. Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovine. Roman Emperor. of Austria) was founded a and lip. Kaiser (see boxed text. legium Minus) and the Baben. allowing the Habsburg family to reign over the Holy Roman had been in Habsburg hands) in July that year. take the next step and become Kaiser (and protector of the pope).com lonelyplanet. This Austro. was killed Hungary. Belgium and much of the Italian peninsula. expanded their small territory to include most of modern-day Lower Austria Czech Republic. Holland. Italy. and own duke and special rights) and Vienna became its capital. Slovakia. Charlemagne created a continued this tradition as protector. the Empire was officially born. Styria at the the Holy Roman Empire in 1273. When Rudolf I arrived in 1273. however. Vienna’s population Empire. THE EMPIRE OF THE HABSBURGS The Babenberg dynasty. Bavarian family. under the Babenberg monarch Heinrich II ‘Jasmirogott’. Hungary. by the time the Austro–Hungarian Empire took shape in 1867 (a dual monarchy of Austria and Hungary). they dominated a loose a forerunner of the of a another noble whose star was rising in Central Europe – the Habsburg Deutscher Bund (German Alliance) comprising hundreds of small ‘states’ cob.

Soviet. occupied Hungary. Hitler and Mussolini had created a Rome–Berlin axis and Austria found itself between a rock and a hard place. Chaos broke out in March 1933 when the frost. These upheavals were spontaneous and Savoy. When accusations surfaced that presidential candidate to revoke his Austrian Dollfuss’ sympathies lay with the Italian dictator Benito Mussolini (1883– Kurt Waldheim had been involved in Nazi war crimes. model. Empire gradually wanes. Krain (in corrupt practices of the Church. Orson Wells as Lime waxes lyrical about how under the bloody reign Austrians suffered badly during the system of atrophy under Klemens von of the Borgias’ Italy produced some of its finest art. boom conditions. even closer call in 1529 when Prussia seizes Silesia (in Poland territories include Austria Theses that call into question part goes to his son Philipp II Habsburg counsels are thrown Turks were thwarted by winter. King and Kaiser) had brotherly love.com lonelyplanet. however. to Haider is an excellent republic. during the Napoleonic occupation. This Maria Theresia (1717–80) gives Carinthia (minus Tyrol) to Luther sparks the Reformation an empire under Catholicism. Austria seriously citizenship. Austria. roots of discontent could be found in a need for cash to finance defences French army by Louis against the Turks. Apart from frequent squabbles between sycophantic monarchs. In a moment of improvisation the end of the The next show of strength from the people was the Revolution of 1848. At the last minute. lost access for neutral independence. Postwar Austria sought the kind of Swiss stability that makes a cuckoo arch and a couple of high-level ministries like ‘war’ and ‘foreign affairs’. His films about the era – The Third Man. rather than against the empire itself. siege of 1683 comes after an inherits Habsburg possessions. clock fascinating. which caused economic problems. out of a window (the Prague Christian Europe is mobilised Succession starts a European Slovenia) and Carinthia. not Allied. (1578–1637) challenges Bohe. but the stigma of WWI defeat weakened it. was in fact French. The Soviet Union insisted on Austria declaring its neutrality as a condition analysis of modern-day This First Republic was the country’s first experiment with truly demo. Britain. lay. 32 HISTORY •• The Modern Republics lonelyplanet. in what was virtually a putsch. Thirty Years’ War. As innkeeper Andreas Hofer (1767–1810) led a rebellion for independence. a diplomat who rose to power in the splash caused by Napoleon’s 1335 & 1363 1517 1556 1618–48 1683 1740–48 Bavarian Ludwig IV (1314–47) Theology professor Martin Abandoning the idea of uniting Anti-reformer Ferdinand II Turkish Siege of Vienna. however. ‘In Switzerland they Metternich. Eugène went on to interlinks seven essays on NEUTRAL. because Austria joined the UN and has even participated in Polarisation was another hurdle. Evidence that he had committed abolished capital pro-German Austrian Nazi Party (this favoured annexation of Austria by war crimes while a lieutenant serving with the German army in the Balkans punishment in 1787. however. One day in April 1945. however. quiet. troops liberated Vienna in March 1945. the Habsburgs in 1335 and when he makes public his 95 Karl V abdicates – the Spanish mia’s confessional freedom. and not surprisingly it was the some Austrians wanted ment and. an Austrian himself. Austria played a moderating role during the East–West an execution to go ahead ernment of the Christian Socials. in California in 2005. Austria first 1945) and the Catholic Church. and when he took up the battle with the Social Democrats. and the world forgot about the past. This silence was shattered in 1986. Its neutrality differs from the Swiss ‘cuckoo clock’ to resources beyond its own borders. the USA and France when peasants in Austria (as elsewhere in Central Europe) rose up against hero. and Hitler. guilt question again. though.’ two countries increasingly went separate ways. today) and the Austrian War of (Ostarrîchi). starring Orson Wells as the penicil. free elections were Austria from the Holocaust ing the foundations for modern Austria. Styria. prevented it from sitting. controlled Austria-Hungary. and Ferdinand I gets Austria. triggering a the first large-scale uprising took place in the mid. It was the beginning of the Second Republic (below) – directed at local despots. Austria’s guilt for WWII was struck out of the State Treaty that paved the way now reduced almost to the size of the country we know today. Prince Eugène of occupied Austria and carved up the capital into zones – the famous ‘four their nobility in the Peasants’ Wars. In March 1938. recognition of Austria. Austria’s greatest military twilight period in which the Soviet Union. ruled the While empires waxed and waned. For work Fin-de-Siècle Vienna.and late-15th century. the produce? The cuckoo clock. Tyrol – which had the intellectual history battlefield. film. 1718. By 1936. Defenestration). TO THE BARRICADES Hitler’s troops invaded Austria. the bomb-damaged streets looking for inspiration for a film he had been fallen into the hands of Bavaria – was the scene of another rebellion when of Vienna in his seminal commissioned to write about the occupation of post-WWII Vienna. he could never be proved. NICE & NOT GUILTY during the drawn-out anti-reformation. body is entombed in Innsbruck’s Hofkirche (see p334). united only by the dual mon. lin racketeer Harry Lime. This had a geographical edge in Austria: international peace-keeping forces.com HISTORY •• To the Barricades 33 This was the so-called ‘KuK’ (König und Kaiser. The constitution from 1920 was revived (in its 1929 form). He banned the communist party and the confronted its Nazi past for the first time. cratic institutions. The Second Republic became a mostly When Governor ‘Rotes Wien’ (Red Vienna) was controlled by a socialist city government. and they got one. after which the Ottoman Prussia and a Habsburg- 63) dies and Tyrol is added. Germany). In 1363 and most of Austria becomes Bohemia and largely Turkish. the country was proclaimed a republic for the second time in its THE MODERN REPUBLICS history. . Hofer was put on trial and executed at Napoleon’s behest. Austria was wracked by revolt and re- country as an appendage of Germany until 1945. In practice. Austrians demanded a fully fledged held in November 1945. at the instigation of the Soviet Union. peaceful period during which the economy enjoyed solid growth or Schwarzenegger allowed while rural regions were firmly in the grip of the conservative federal gov. Greene penned the script for one of Europe’s finest his troubles. brought this to an end. 500 years of democracy and peace. pre-Nazi laws from March 1933 came back into force. however. explain himself or express misgivings about his wartime role. The Refused entry to the today’s Republic of Austria. for ending occupation in 1955. chance would have it. ending 640 years of Habsburg rule. triggering the and the threat persists until power struggle between Margarethe Maultasch (1318– Lutheran (Protestant). humiliate him on the In 1948 the British author Graham Greene flew to Vienna and roamed In April 1809. and Hella Pick’s Guilty Victim: The turmoil caused by defeat in WWI. sistance. and what did they monarchy – the Kaiser of Austria was also King of Hungary. men in a jeep’ period. or in some instances demands by an oppressive monarch Carl E Schorske magically XIV. but nor was Austria’s elected president willing to fully sparked the Austrian Civil War in 1934. Christian Socials chancellor Engelbert Dollfuss (1892–1934) dissolved parlia.

Austria’s first that excludes Austria. Austro-Prussian War (1866). with lice snapped ferociously at the heels of liberals and Austrian nationalists the annexation of Austria by Hitler in 1938. Sigmund Freud demonstrations. would liberate the capital. The 20th century’s most innovative classical 1764 1793 1804–05 & 1809 1848 1866 1867 The reformer Kaiser Joseph II Following a marriage to French Napoleon (1769–1821) occupies Revolution topples Chancellor Austria and its allied principali. Nazism by recalling the revolt of innkeeper Andreas Hofer in 1809 (see The rebels demanded a parliament. democratic parliament. however. and reflects the Interestingly. the Habsburgs decided to dispense with Another involved in that plot. Adolf Schärf (1890–1965). survived undetected. the stakes were raised even higher and. Austria had no gov- overnight winning the support of rural folk in the regions. they were betrayed at the last Women in Austria revolution had swept away the last vestiges of feudalism and made state moment and several members were strung up from street lanterns. Although this Hitler by military brass on July 20. Robert Bernardis (1908–44) was involved in the assassination attempt on In October 1848 revolution reached fever pitch in Vienna. Members of the to change. This fought alongside the Yugoslav People’s Liberation Army. Meanwhile. but. Weakened by loss against (1741–90) takes the throne and king Louis XVI (1754–93). this must have been a depress- SIGMUND FREUD Frontkämpfer (Front Fighters) group charged with killing two people during ing moment. WWI had ended When the Nazis stomped into Vienna in March 1938. The Holy Roman Klemens von Metternich. Austria is now forced the Age of Enlightenment that Theresia’s 15th daughter Marie. A few days later.com lonelyplanet. whose members his own monarchical constitution and dissolved the parliament in early 1849. most importantly. For those Jews who in big cities. in the decades before revolution. but Hitler was popular inside Austria. of its modern history. Carl Szokoll (1915–2004). not Austrians. unified and liberal Germany. (1856–1939). This was the integration of his ‘homeland’ into the Third Reich. . Army. included Austria’s president from 1957 to 1965. Church is curbed. Nationalism – the best chance of liberalising and Vienna before being banned and their leadership was arrested. In one ironic twist. 1944 and was then executed by Nazis. the French Revolution.’ prompted by a court having acquitted members of a right-wing paramilitary had not yet managed to flee the country. parliament is formed. Metternich believed in the power of absolute monarchy and his po. 05 worked closely with By September 1849 it was time to weigh up the damage. A July revolt broke out in 1927 tens of thousands of cheering Austrians on Vienna’s Heldenplatz to declare nervous than anyone else when left-wing groups stormed the Palace of Justice in Vienna. but Hungary Austrian) – is beheaded during Danube Monarchy. failed to really ignite itself supplied a disproportionately large number of officers for the SS and the Historical Commission’s Austria elsewhere except in Styria. Maria Vienna in 1805. by Hungary to create a dual began under Maria Theresia is Antoinette (1755–93) – who the reinvents himself as Austrian woman. European age begins. active and passive support for Nazism and Hitler’s war. Kaiser Ferdinand I which leads to victory for Austro-Hungarian monarchy in full swing.com H I S T O R Y • • J e w i s h H i s t o r y i n Au s t r i a 35 fall. The Austrian won back Lombardy (Italy) in successful military campaigns. The Nazi Era JEWISH HISTORY IN AUSTRIA By 1927. But the Red Army as it rolled towards Vienna. Franz II flees disguised as a washer. Tellingly. As elsewhere. An Österreichisches Freiheitsbataillon (Austrian Freedom Battalion) Kaiser Ferdinand I packed his bags and his family and fled to Innsbruck. (the Ausgleich) in 1867. but in June but about 90 people died in the revolt and over 1000 were injured. In the late 1920s and the 1930s. Hitler addressed more abstinent nor more and elsewhere engaging in bloody clashes. 34 HISTORY •• To the Barricades lonelyplanet. because the Kaiser could veto the Reichstag’s legislation. but successor Franz. uprising was ultimately quashed. but socially the air was from within was extremely difficult. count the dead Szokoll and other military figures in Operation Radetzky to liberate Vienna and. creating a abdicates. in national elections in 1919. But in 1809 Joseph I (1830–1916) abolishes work for a unified Germany Austria establishes a drags its feet. at www. It wasn’t. replacing him with his nephew Franz-Joseph I. The police moved in and regained control of the building. In short. and Ferdinand cleverly sanctioned this. Empire is abolished. unlike other countries. Austria was not a in the last days of the war.historikerkom Kleindeutsch (Greater Germany–Lesser Germany) question. large numbers of Austrians themselves helped achieve through their the Nazi era can be found a greater. had not wanted to read the signs for a long time. opposition turned to resistance. was called 05. who ties in Germany fight the Prussia. The Red gained the right to vote citizens out of royal subjects. the ernment in exile. and Austria The findings of the in March. Tyrolean resistance leaders often rallied opposition to mission. p33). these citizens inhabited a very different world. This was about outlawed in the early 1930s and fought from underground. a similar revolution German army. who introduced The most famous resistance group. Austria’s home-grown brand of Austro-Fascism had The sparks of February revolution in Paris (1848) flared in Vienna favoured independence. resistance and also called ‘Biedermeier’) was culturally rich. It would only be revived properly in 1867. Ferdinand I. This Vormärz era (ie pre-March 1848. societies in those days – was also threatening to chip the delicate edges of The role of Austria during WWII is one of the most controversial aspects the Habsburg empire. re-take Vienna.gv. and briefly they got one in May 1848. what Hitler and the Nazis couldn’t achieve through report into Austria during in Germany meant some Austrian revolutionaries supported being part of pressure. Yugoslavian border. look at what had been won. difficult affinity between Austrians and Germans. and partisan groups should have been the end of the Habsburgs.at. that year he fled to England. A new the Frenchman must return to many reforms. not least because atrocious industrial conditions were making Social Democratic Worker’s Party fought a four-day battle with police in Linz the country ripe for change. ordinary Austrians ‘The Viennese are neither in defeat and armed paramilitary groups roamed the streets of Vienna threw bouquets of flowers and cheered. With the Red Army approaching Vienna in 1945. Communists and Social Democrats were heavy with political resignation and Austrians grew insular. Habsburgs received a popular boost when General Radetzky (1766–1858) Resistance increased once the war looked lost for Hitler. whenever Hitler’s troops jackbooted over a border. The power of the French call ‘L’Autrichienne’ (the Kaiser Franz I. Prussia and creates the ground. Parliament passed a in Styria and Carinthia maintained links with other partisans across the bill improving the lot of the peasants. reflecting the city–country divide. This was the tricky Grossdeutsch. Vienna’s ‘father’ of modern psychoanalysis. Although they were able to establish contact with democracy.

therefore identified with it. whose political speech on of Holocaust victims at allowed into tradesmen’s guilds or to engage in agriculture and therefore press freedom in 1848 helped trigger revolution.000 Austrian Jews perish in concentration camps throughout Europe. They were just two ing of the Israelitische Kultusgemeinde (Jewish Religious Community).jewishvirtual subsided from 1718. was a brutal and systematic act that saw some Legally unfettered. Sephardic Jews from Spain arrived and were allowed library. About 7000 religiously affiliated Jews live in Austria. Many also cherished the freedoms of revolution. Hear and read stories Historically. don’t miss the Jewish Museum and the Museum Judenplatz. 1990s. hundreds die in three-day Ottomon Empire.com HISTORY •• The Enemy at the Gate 37 composer. poured oil on the fires of Hitler’s ideology. where a large synagogue stood in the 13th century. and it brought them tion firing. are etched in the of the synagogue were used for the building of the old university. collective memory of Jews everywhere: the prohibitive Nuremberg Laws.org/jsource/vjw/ Austria. The The revolution of 1848 (see p33) brought the biggest changes. It a high tightrope. They were seldom Beginning with Adolf Fischhof (1816–93). Jews could only work in some professions. Interestingly. Gradually. They owed much to the Habsburg monarchy and many ruptured a Jewish history in Austria dating back to the early Middle Ages. suicide. both in Vienna Jewish Virtual Library at couraged to settle in town as money lenders.org). triggering World War I. The synagogue on Vienna’s Judenplatz was destroyed and the stones The events that followed.ushmm in the Middle Ages made life difficult for Jews. and now many of Vienna’s non-Jewish of Vienna’s worst pogroms. His book Der Judenstaat (1896. Hitler’s attempt is the main body that represents religious Jews in Austria. however. Meanwhile. however. Turkish sieges. some of one time or another to lay claim to Austrian lands. Herzegovina. and this district remained was boosted by the arrival of Jews from the former Soviet Union in the Austria from the Middle Vienna’s largest Jewish quarter prior to WWII. . are the ones that really got the European imagina- Vienna’s Jews were at the forefront of the uprising. they also lived out their strong Jewish identity. had already been booted out of freedom of religion. The number through Jewish history in name it bears today. Jews were subjected to attack and abuse. more of many prominent Austrian Jews forced into exile. Austria-Hungary is Austrian archduke Franz WWI ends and Karl I abdicates The Social Democratic Party of Austrian politics is chronically increasing their influence in given a mandate to occupy Ferdinand is assassinated in after the humiliating defeat. which accused Jews of desecrating Christ by such acts This. the quarter was re-christened Leopoldstadt. The second was the ‘blood libel’. The Jewish State) would later Vienna (see p127). www. or through money lend. once the threat (see p127). When Hitler’s such as sticking pins into communion wafers and making them weep or troops reached Vienna in 1938. Indirectly. Jews were en. and even today it’s not really possible to talk about a ‘recovery’ of Jewish And all inhabited an ‘Austrian–German’ cultural landscape. For a fascinating glimpse of Jewish life from the 13th century to today. 1878 1908 1914 1918 1920s 1934 To prevent the Russians Fatefully. and with the founding father of Austrian social democracy. They returned. it also led to the found- his job as a lecturer in Berlin in 1933 and fled to the US. In fact. with the alist. the while the provinces are parliament is in gridlock and Austria-Hungary occupy Bosnia expectation that it would later which sees Austria-Hungary in Habsburg empire is shaved of controlled by conservative Austria collapses into civil war – and Herzegovina. was regularly relaxed. a concept murdered along with 16 other Viennese Jews by zealous crusaders on their that brought together the ideas of the workers’ movement with support for way to the Holy Land. In 1420 these libels culminated in one Viennese cultural and political life. and about Take a virtual tour them out of Unterer Werd.com lonelyplanet. press and schooling. but this law nesses burned and Jews were attacked openly on the streets. be annexed completely. which explains many of the clichés of the past and present. desecration libel’. a ghetto grew around today’s Judenplatz in a Jewish state. the another 3000 to 5000 who are not affiliated with a community. to wipe out European Jewry. the Romans and various tribes have all swept across borders at himself as Austria’s Kaiser and allowed Jews to establish schools. It did mean. today the Jewish community is only a fraction of its ticularly rough time of it. The very same man was subsequently of Theodor Herzl (1860–1904). Viktor Adler Holocaust Memorial ing. bleed. Today this Others were not as fortunate. Somewhere in culture in the country. 36 H I S T O R Y • • J e w i s h H i s t o r y i n Au s t r i a lonelyplanet. and continuing with Herzl the website of the US earned a living through trading goods and selling. of course. culminating in the Holocaust. Jews drove ahead reforms in Austria and played a key role Museum (www. be crucial to the creation of Israel. who founded political Zionism. there. was originally founded as a border March to keep out tribes (see p30). The first mention of Jews in Vienna was in 1194. to establish their own religious community.html. The Holocaust (or ‘Schoa’). during which many Jews committed collective citizens simply looked the other way. paralysed by the Balkans after they win the and administer Bosnia and Sarajevo by a Serbian nation. the die Kristallnacht (‘Night of Out of the Darkness Broken Glass’) on 9–10 November. One of these was the ‘host during the Rotes Wien (see p32) period of the 1920s and early 1930s. Two ‘libels’ (1852–1918). in Vienna. . Because of this. the forced sale and theft of Jewish property. Democrat defeat. Vienna’s Jews nevertheless found themselves walking 65. Austria controls ‘Red Vienna’. and in 1670 when Leopold I (1640–1705) drove former size. however. that Vienna’s Jews had a par. Austria itself Vienna’s Jewry rose into bourgeois and literary circles. An edict from Kaiser Joseph II THE ENEMY AT THE GATE (1741–90) improved conditions for Jews and after Kaiser Franz I reinvented The Celts. Ages to the present in the When money was tight following the 1683 Turkish siege. keeps most German-speaking fighting culminating in Social regions. Arnold Schönberg (1874–1951). than a century after the Sephardic Jews had founded their own. alliance with Germany and the border nationalities and Austria forces. its polarised. which accused Jews of drinking the The tragedy was that the Jewish community had contributed so much to blood of Christians during rituals. though. paramilitary groups and in 1934 Russo-Turkish War of 1877–78. the First Republic is proclaimed heart set on Austro-Marxism. when a minter by the name In 1878 Jewry in Austria was shaken up again by the arrival from Budapest of Schlom was appointed by the crown. 1939 when synagogues and Jewish busi- Jews were officially banned from settling in Vienna until 1624.

Neutral status ministerial posts are divided heim wins a tough election but foregoes NATO membership.000 men. . all only one person with hostile feelings towards the Habsburgs. who he commissioned to work on the very the feet of husband explain the patchwork of Protestant and Catholic religions today in many same grave before he stepped into it. to Poland. 38 H I S T O R Y • • K e e p i n g i t i n t h e Fa m i l y – T h e H a b s b u r g s lonelyplanet. Bohemia and Hungary at that time. his own grave (which he commissioned during his own lifetime) and Johanna the Mad kissed ruler could decide the religion of his or her own region. not muscle. Ferdinand I (1503–64) married Anna of Hungary and Bohemia KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY – THE HABSBURGS (1503–47). yet his death was kept secret for several days career in European politics. Maria von Habsburg (1505–58) married into this could never be described as humble. but he’s an Austrian. Austria and Vienna are draws post-WWII international among the major parties. ful but no proof of crimes. his death in 1506. Johanna the Mad). economic high-kicking and garrisons on Kahlenberg. when his coffin was mess of the Habsburgs because Karl V had dedicated his life to creating his But it was Maximilian’s affection for Maria of Burgundy (1457–82) that opened five weeks after so-called ‘universal Catholic monarchy’. empires given to others by Mars are given to you by Venus. Spain and its resource-rich was dug up and brought back to Vienna in triumph. It is now in Innsbruck’s Hofkirche Philipp the Handsome regions that used to be part of the Holy Roman Empire. In their wounds and die. but the 18-day endeavour was They’re still around. but it wasn’t Apfelstrüdel they were after in their great sieges. even though Vienna was only lightly defended by 10. the era of the universal monarch arrived. Burgundy. was about as good as it got.com lonelyplanet. The Turkish sultan subsequently claims to the Habsburg lands in 1961. but he renounced his not sufficient to break the resolve of the city. it was all to no avail. After a rigged Vienna. and the UN becomes a hallmark of Austrian mission finds Waldheim unhelp- part of Hitler’s Reich. Really mad or really The rot set in with the Treaty of Augsburg (1555). he At the head of the Turkish siege of 1683 was the general and grand vizier reportedly replied ‘Who are we playing?’ Kara Mustapha. fulfilling a deal his grandfather Maximilian I had negotiated Possibly no other family has influenced the European continent – or the with King Vladislav II (1456–1516). Messengers were led into the presence of the embalmed body ‘I’ve not once attended a ball. a step that allowed him to re-enter Austria and launch a died at the siege of Szigetvár. the 90-plus year old ‘monarch’ replied: for a while.’ set up in haste but with great effect. The two married. which traditionally purveyed kings Habichtsburg (Hawke’s Nest) castle near Basle in present-day Switzerland. They then unwittingly don’t run into the gossip columnists. whereby accused of war crimes. and Mustapha meekly accepted his fate. His other loves were Renaissance handsome? The Habsburg bickering surrounding the Reformation. In the same deal. The price The ‘Spanish Marriage’ in 1496 was another clever piece of royal bedding. unfortunately. was the historic key to Habsburg land grabbing. it 200. Austria parties govern Austria based Austrian presidential candidate Union (EU) in 1995 but because Braunau am Inn. whose moniker was The Last Knight because of his late Sicily). That. Mustapha’s overconfidence was his downfall. when her husband Marriage. The Austrian Staatsvertrag ‘Grand coalitions’ of major Austria confronts its past when Austria joins the European and Hitler visits his birthplace Over 100. including (1459–1519). the Habsburg shoe for centuries.com H I S T O R Y • • K e e p i n g i t i n t h e Fa m i l y – T h e H a b s b u r g s 39 The Ottoman Empire viewed Vienna as ‘the city of the golden apple’. your majesty. overseas territories in Central and South America became Habsburg. Seeing the writing clearly on the had the greatest influence on the fortunes of the Habsburgs. Lorraine and the Low Countries fell into Habsburg hands. Although its origins fold. in 1529. these regions were the last word in culture. Habsburg in 1933 (the year Hitler seized power in Germany): ‘You know. This is stained. too.’ Somewhat of a sporting man. failing to put day. This treaty stipulated that each art. 1938 1939–45 1955 1955–66 1986 1995 Nazi troops march into Vienna War and genocide in Austria. was quizzed about who he thought would win an Austria versus Hungary football match. When their son. Heldenplatz. WHATEVER HAPPENED TO THE HABSBURGS? was undertaken by Süleyman the Magnificent. Otto von Habsburg (1912–) is the current family head. marry! For the Republic) and Hungary were all thoroughly Habsburg. The Ludwig II (1506–26) drowned in a tributary of the Danube during the Hungarian king Matthias Corvinus (1443–90) once adapted lines from Ovid Battle of Mohács against Turks.000 of Vienna’s (State Treaty) is ratified. you which was placed in a seated position on the throne. Wald. when Otto von Habsburg relayed their news to the corpse. and Vienna to address Anschluss but 65. wall.000 tents of the Ottoman army that surrounded Most poignant is perhaps a comment by German President Paul von Hindenburg to Otto von Vienna he installed his 1500 concubines. Bohemia was also in the Habsburg world for the matter – as much as the Habsburgs.’ Under Karl V (1500–58).000 Jews die. politics. his beloved 180. Silesia (in Poland). which regulated religious predilection for medieval tournaments. Not only does this Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). the family came a long way from its Polish–Lithuanian Jagiellonen dynasty. The subterfuge worked Once asked why his name never surfaced in the tabloids. at Gran. of failure was death.000 Jews escape before the declares its sovereignty and on a system of Proporz Kurt Waldheim (1918–2007) is of guarantees in 1955 to Linz. and The age of the convenient wedding began in earnest with Maximilian I the Habsburgs had added the Kingdom of Naples (southern Italy. Austria becomes divided among the powers.000 ecstatic Viennese on In 1945 the Red Army liberates occupation ends. When the When Maximilian’s son Philipp der Schöne (Philipp the Handsome) mar- Austrian imperial army conquered Belgrade in 1718 the grand vizier’s head ried Juana la Loca (1479–55. guarded by 700 black eunuchs. An Historian’s Com- referendum. lucky Austria. but it also made a (see p334). I prefer to sleep at night. the arts. there’s Their luxurious quarters contained gushing fountains and regal baths. At Belgrade he was met by the emissary of the Sultan Mehmed IV. The first. in an attempt to preserve the morale of his army. he abdicated in 1556 and withdrew to a monastery in Spain to lick his and when Maria fell from a horse and died as a result of a miscarriage in 1482. he and his army were surprised by a swift attack. Again. Bohemia (in the Czech when he wrote: ‘Let others wage war but you. later establishes offices here. And if you don’t go to nightclubs. By 1526. Moscow to remain neutral. bodies to Vienna. The downside was a sticky relationship with France that stuck to Mustapha was pursued from the battlefield and defeated once again. neutral status and a decade of (proportion). Amid the 25.

she held onto power for 40 years. 7kg at birth. and the overseas colonies. and Karl V’s only legitimate son. p39). who was apparently very adept in just that field. which raided private homes. Philipp II (1527–98) got Spain. trying to catch men entertaining loose women – the commission even tried to snare Casanova during his visit to Vienna. while also managing to current family). she was remarkably prudish for a family that had married and copulated its way to power. Maria Theresia (1717–80) was the of every Habsburg ever mother of the nation. having easily Austrian People’s Party is European Cup. 1999 2007 2008 Austria introduces the euro and A grand coalition government Austria co-hosts with abolishes the Austrian shilling of Social Democrats and Switzerland football’s as its currency.com The spoils were divided up among Habsburgs. Naples and Sicily. Maria Theresia felt she should remain loyal to her spouse. weighed a daunting . Thrust into the limelight when her father died with born (including the no male heirs. Maria Theresia’s fourth child. She retreated to Schloss Schönbrunn (p135) in Vienna. The brother of Karl V – Ferdinand I (the same one who had married Anna of Hungary and Bohemia) – inherited Austria and (yes. the Low Countries.antiquesatoz Louis XVI. rate. For a succinct biography Maria Theresia If Maximilian I was the Last Knight. Francis I. Maria Theresia’s low take on fornication was no doubt coloured by the conduct of her husband. satisfied the criteria for the formed under Alfred level of debt and the inflation Gusenbauer. left the running of the state in the hands of Joseph II (of 7kg fame). One of her less popular measures was the introduction of the short- lived Commission against Immoral Conduct in 1752. 40 H I S T O R Y • • K e e p i n g i t i n t h e Fa m i l y – T h e H a b s b u r g s lonelyplanet. Joseph II.com/habsburg. and adopted a low-profile and chaste existence. you guessed it) Hungary and Bohemia. Although Maria Theresia pushed through many enlightened reforms. see give birth to 16 children – among them Marie Antoinette. and when he died suddenly in 1765 she stayed in mourn- ing for the rest of her life. the family is still going strong in public life (see boxed text. Although the last Habsburg ruler abdicated in 1918. future wife of www. . Yet despite his philandering.

gv. Likewise. even when there is no traffic in sight. The value judgements of human beings are…an attempt to prop up illusion with argument’. Do introduce yourself at the start of a phone call by giving your name. you shouldn’t either. too. couldn’t deny a few things about the Austrians’ becomes what they mental topography. Now it isn’t. Austrians are self-made rather than born. Nude bathing is limited to areas with FKK signs and if no-one else is going topless at other beaches. which has much to do with the country’s size. and the cops can instantly fine you for jaywalking. misanthropic wit. Herr for men and Frau for women is the minimum required.at has plenty of as Austrians. always use the Sie form with the older generation and on the telephone. But what Austria now lacks in land it makes up for with a grandiose bureaucracy honed with vigour since the 19th century. it’s not so common with the younger generation. 41 The Culture THE NATIONAL PSYCHE Trying to put a finger on the psyche of a country that gave us the likes of psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud is surely fraught with dangers. Inside this bureaucracy you are likely to find (apart from the odd grump) a system of dividing up posts not on merit but consensus. restaurant or information office. The capital lives and thrives from its Wiener Schmäh (Vienna information on the humour). So what was he trying to tell us? Maybe that whatever we decide about Austrians on a visit. Don’t strip off or go topless at every beach in Austria. website www. Do dress up if going to the opera. informal company. to ignore the rules is the height of rudeness. each The Austrian Federal state has its own anthem. A jacket and tie for men is the norm. café. and each even has its own patron saint. Servus is reserved for greetings only between friends or the younger generation. which is sung by schoolchildren on important Government’s official occasions. but they can also be greater sticklers for convention and public opinion is less fragmented. Austrians rarely do it. theatre or a top restaurant. ‘In Austria. Do use full titles at the beginning of formal meetings. When departing. As Freud him- self said. Maybe it’s also why one of Freud’s most important works is his Jokes DOS & DON’TS Austria is a society of politeness. On top of this come a few historical COMPOSER GUSTAV MAHLER grains that irritate the Austrian psyche. wry. a concoction of morbid. Some of the local Vienna Actionism art did situation in English. Auf Wiedersehen or Auf Wiederschauen is appropriate. Along with the national symbols. ‘I know only one thing for sure. personified by country’s political dead rock singer Falco (p49). though. One is the self-styled conservatism you find in the are not. If you speak German.’ deeper rifts and valleys of its regions. whether it be in a social setting. even in younger. Austrians see themselves – probably quite rightly – as more harmony-seeking than the neighbouring Germans. Once upon a time half the world was its oyster. shop. everyone Even Freud. Stick to the fol- lowing dos and don’ts and you’ll do just fine: Do greet people with Grüss Gott or Guten Tag. Don’t cross at the traffic lights when the figure is red. strikingly ‘New World’ at times and also fiercely regional. shake hands when you leave. Do shake hands when introduced to someone. . some of it will be our own narrative.austria The Viennese are different because they see themselves first and foremost .

organise or watch above) is literate. however.or. nothing gets an Austrian snorting ‘If you want to abolish Although its farms still tend to be of the ‘two cows. more than the whiff of powder snow. grants have settled (see p44). who go there to live and work. Tyrol. On average. of course. In 1932 the team lost narrowly to Sports Organisation alised many of its industries to prevent them from takeover or wholesale the England team at old Wembley and in the 1934 World Cup to Italy website www. has achieved superhero status in an alpine career spanning per person than in the USA. Austria might be expected to downhill. things get going on the pistes. showcases 1990s. can be founding drinking a beer or enjoy a strong following. As much a national hobby as a sport. of newborn girls and Austrians ranked health.com lonelyplanet. at last count. Austria. Men. Innsbruck has hosted the Winter you have to create it. kicks off at the end of autumn and runs until the beginning in 1995.at. while the rest of Austria’s provinces (aside from most popular boy’s name. Since the in the semifinal. Vienna’s density In 2006 Lukas was the With their high material standard of living. BUSINESSMAN less than 200 employ more than 1000 people. is Leonie topped the list A 2007 survey showed cultural metropolises. healthcare funded by a percentage on the pay packet.bundesliga all sports. hardy herders plod to alpine pastures with their Summer is pretty much a time for niche sports like golf (except for snow National service is still cattle and live in summer huts while tending their beasts. ever sold out. Tourism accounts for about held in Kitzbühel (p350). because some Austrian capitalism. bonnet.000 people among the best educated in the world. Another. handball. This was divided: 51.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 43 and their Relation to the Unconscious. 42 T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e lonelyplanet. in German). The Austria When Soviet tanks rolled into Austria in 1945. Most companies are small or medium-sized. so getting hold of a ticket is usually no problem. Women can still be seen in the Dirndl (a full.’ electronics and steel. dismantling and transportation to Siberia as war reparations. and one person who does this per capita visit Austria than any other country. 98% of the population (aged 15 and in Namibia. in German. the landscape has largely been spared the worst and it is individual gold medals in large hill ski jumping events in the 2006 Winter not a big polluter – CO2 emissions are below the Organisation for Economic Olympics in Torino. Austria has a population of 8. three fences type’.at. happiest employees. and it is here. but return to their ‘homes’ in the provinces regularly for a shot of country life. but this figure doesn’t really tell us much. Based on current projections. Its two largest provinces are Vienna and all three disciplines at the 1956 Winter Olympics in Cortina d’Ampezzo. Austrians have watched the pendulum swing back and privatisation The national football league. it has also liberalised sectors such as telecommunications. St Anton am Arlberg (p362) and Schladming. Toni Sailer. Austria. and Austrians are also a football European Championship in Austria is like putting on ski jumping About 600. Since joining the EU . and almost half of a person’s gross wage goes in tax and Skiing social security contributions.5% females to 48. too. tive international matches undefeated. the government nation. however. and four years later won gold medals in tilt towards neighbouring Slovakia. green hats. SPORT The roots of tradition still reach down deep into Austrian soil outside Peer into the pantheon of Austrian Olympic Games medallists and one thing the cities. winner of team and industrial flurry. Except for motor racing. restaurants or coffee houses. Austrians enjoy a quality of life that is the envy of other the least populated. is arguably the greatest skier the POPULATION country has ever produced. At 17 he claimed the Tyrolean championships at Given the country’s population distribution. into a proud local history of the ‘beautiful game’. Football. and anything to do with running. particularly in chemicals. AND POLITICIAN 10% of GDP.5% males. steel of spring with a break during the severe winter months. a spectacular landscape on the is well above this figure. Ice hockey. All very serious stuff. ing. Austria.3 million. swimming and windsurf- compulsory for males in lots of traditional festivals. and blouse with Championship in 2008. Austria will have almost 9 million Hairdressers were the Vienna is also a magnet for artists. David. wide braces and shorts or knee these in large numbers too. and Anna. Salzburg-born Hermann ‘The Herminator’ Co-operation and Development (OECD) average. Europeans. pleated draws the largest crowds. In early summer. world has of them. is bringing the country into line with current trends. hiking and extreme sports. breeches. Austrians participate in wine in collarless loden jackets. It’s hardly surprising. meanwhile. Women die about six years were Tobias.bso. who can either All this is packed into in a small country with the fifth-highest standard serve their time in the of living in the EU and the 10th in the world in terms of earnings and pur. It’s coupled with a generous system of social security and The Austrian humorist and actor Alfred Dorfer (b 1961) reckons that staging service duties. and will no doubt be boosted by the European skirt) with tight bodice. Austria’s first true superstar. there are 96 inhabit- LIFESTYLE ants per sq km. that most of Austria’s immi- it also happens to be a fine collection of Schmäh. tennis and motor racing also short. The Viennese lifestyle brings the excitement and perks of a big More females than males reside in Austria. Football military or perform civil chasing power. first it has strong export industries. wine or coffee later than men: at the ripe old age of 82 compared to the male average of 76. Games are hardly and energy. worn with traditional apron. but co-hosting the championship with Switzerland in 2008 hooks play. puffed sleeves. of the best conditions worldwide are here. Interestingly. paragliding. important for happiness. with friends in one of the capital’s many bars. and less than half the level Maier (see p44). with only 53 inhabitants per sq km. however. more than a decade and bristling with medals and cups. doorstep lending itself to skiing. and its exciting Vorarlberg) are well below it. so sometimes Austrians live up admirably to bizarre images the becomes clear: Austrians are killer-bee at winter sports. . slalom and giant slalom. machine goods. the Austrian Bundesliga (www. the population other popular names a good marriage and city at a pace that is more relaxed than in most other European capitals. more people Stars of the Austrian skiing scene abound. for all this literally is the ski jumper Thomas Morgenstern (b 1986). Lena good friends as most shows in the favoured Viennese pastime of enjoying a beer. football each weekend The halcyon days of Austrian football were in 1931–32 when local legend during the season in ECONOMY Hugo Meisl (1891–1937) coached the national team through 14 consecu. Olympics twice (in 1964 and 1976). Women earn about 26% less than men on average (the biggest gap in the EU’s 15 countries). With the arrival of autumn and winter. and World Cup ski races are annually HANNES ANDROSCH. Austria also has golf). students and professionals from all over people in 2050. But Lower Austria in the east. and with 20 million foreign visitors each year.

On the surface of things. His recovery was miraculous. The radio landscape has more depth in Austrian Encyclopaedia Wörthersee and Kitzbühel. star of the 1970s and ’80s. The largest immigrant groups are Serbians. Religion for most Austrians means observing the major rituals such as . losing out to James Hunt Carinthia. particularly by the right- waved at the crowd. 73. first published in 1703. on the ground is that almost 17% – or one in six people living in Austria – All is well for the Catholic Church then. in German) are at the serious Motor racing is enormously popular as an armchair sport. Austria immigration has also produced a backlash. Pörtschach am watch German private stations. Local private life. Undeterred. 18 months after the accident. and more people Catholicism for centuries. www. somersaulted 30m through the air.000 foreign. not Islam’ during the 2006 national elections. yet he was back in his car after missing only two and some town signs – much to the chagrin of the populist governor of pages of the government races. It is a tradition of media being concentrated in just a few hands. programmes and news reports. He went on to win two gold medals in the next six days. Vanek (b 1984). For online information Gone are the days when Austria could claim a tennis ace of the likes of the two channels of the public broadcaster. Anti-foreigner campaigns have held its breath as the man known as ‘The Herminator’ got to his feet. also broadcast in Germany and Switzerland. That year he narrowly failed to retain the world championship. They tried to save it.com T H E C U LT U R E • • M e d i a 45 A tiny 1. MEDIA Thomas Muster. toughness that characterises his all-or-nothing skiing style. see boxed text.at. and is a strong candidate for revamping. During the men’s downhill competi. and Austria’s one and only superstar. Der Standard (http://derstandard. the lives of Austrians. whose Alliance Future Austria (BZÖ). Austria’s top tennis player during the 1990s. and Association of Tennis channels of quality are still thin in the ether.000 copies of a weekday. founded the low-cost Niki airline and a car rental firm. and Turks or descendents of Turks who arrived human alter ego. is the oldest newspaper in the world.krone. For a good numbers injured at the height of their careers and made sensational comebacks. Bosnians and Croatians who The somewhat bumbling side of skier Hermann Maier has led to him being likened to Superman’s arrived in the early 1990s. Maier showed the amazing as guest workers in earlier decades. Slovaks and Sinti or Roma.at. Niki Lauda (b 1949. selling only 22. wing nationalist Freedom Party. although tennis is still popular. year. Clark Kent. The trend is upward: foreigners have a higher birth rate. Off in German) at the low-brow end of the rack has a massive 43% and wields the circuit. a break-away party from the damaged leg or not. A good indication of the situation Muslim.6% of signs in both German and been an increase in people taking the plunge to become ‘neo-Austrians’ (as the population said they were Roman Catholic. 3Sat. he misjudged a difficult curve. Images of Muster hitting balls while strapped to last country in Europe to abolish its state monopoly on TV and radio. got too close to a gate. Vienna has some fascinating quarters – such as the 16th tion.com lonelyplanet. A number of traditional languages have also crunch. Ice hockey is also popular. religion would seem to play an important part in State Treaty.at. Slovene is an official language in Carinthia and German language in a high speed crash during the 1976 season. the local statistical office quaintly puts it). and many Austrians actually movements. In numbers. (FPÖ). In the latest census. dusted himself down and been a feature of Austrian politics since the 1990s. No Austrian has together account for less than 10% of readership. Croatian and and is on par with Germany.wienerzeitung. Austria has a RELIGION According to the Austrian lower percentage of foreigners than Switzerland and the Benelux countries. The other important trend over recent years has bit like asking whether the pope is Catholic. above). Doctors faced an agonising decision – amputate the hopelessly Haider. in the 1998 Nagano Olympics.statistik.at. The TV staples of most Austrians are dished up by ORF1 and ORF2. become world number one and in the process earned the nickname ‘The Iron Man’. just hours after a win at the 1989 Lipton Championship semifinal in Florida. in German). Hungarians. he went on to win the Super G (super giant slalom) at Kitzbühel – his 42nd World Cup victory. Hitradio Ö3 is the most popular mainstream music station. only of foreigners in Austria. Slovenes. Kurier has a readership roared around the Formula One circuit more successfully than Vienna-born of about 10%. Austria was the was doubtful he would ever play tennis again.com.aeiou. in Other Sports German) and Die Presse (www. Maier underwent some painful operations to insert a FPÖ. three of Austria’s great sportsmen stand out for one feature: they were badly and 19th centuries and include Croatians. in January 2003. Inquiring whether there’s a church in town is a right to place name are arriving than leaving. the field. mainly in the 1950s and ’60s. and more recently enormous clout in politics and public opinion. an osteopathic bench evoked admiration and bewilderment among tennis fans. see the Professionals (ATP) tennis events are held in Vienna. Jörg Haider – are bilingual. have a migrant background. Croatian and Hungarian are spoken statistic internet site at by a single point on the last race of the season. that means about 815. There’s also a good culture on Austria’s cultural the Styrian Laufstier (running bull) Thomas Muster (b 1967. mainly SPORTING LEGENDS – TO HELL & BACK from Eastern Europe. He went on to The state-owned Wiener Zeitung (www.5% of the population is made up of indigenous minorities. while the mass-circulation Kronen Zeitung (www. However. which played the anti-Turkish card But worse was to come. In August 2001 Maier was involved in an horrific motorcycle crash with a slogan ‘Home. and only speed end of a spectrum of about 20 daily national or regional newspapers. district – that are colourful places for a plunge into multicultural life. plus music beyond the chart staples.at. As a result. MULTICULTURALISM With just under 10% of her population on foreign passports.2% the minority language. although here ORF holds the reins on a swathe of national and website www. 4. Thomas local stations. currently plays in the National Hockey League (NHL) in FM4 serves up an entertaining dish of interviews. see boxed channel. Freedom of religion is guaranteed under the constitution.diepresse. people and text.7% Protestant and 4. he regained the title the following in Burgenland. and Ö1 strokes a classic number. and by that almost cost him his life. He suffered horrific burns crossed the border with them. Lauda morphed into a local aviation mogul. visit the English The Formula One legend Niki Lauda is possibly most famous of all. It is also one of the dullest and least-read. so too a drunk driver. Most settled in Austria’s eastern parts between the 16th In a twist of fate. Czechs. but limitations prevent this from spreading to the highways. some English language the USA for the Buffalo Sabres. right? It could be worse. but bounced over a fence and crashed through two safety nets before finally coming to rest. above). campaigned on the platform of a one-third reduction of the number titanium rod into the leg to hold it together. and the country has certainly been a stronghold of Slovenian minorities have ers. and proceeded to net his third championship win in 1984. 44 T H E C U LT U R E • • M u l t i c u l t u r a l i s m lonelyplanet. had his kneecap crushed by Although mass media and press freedom has a long history in Austria.

he composed a startling number of sym- guitar and clarinet. the director of the Vienna Court Opera from 1897 to 1907. and Josef Lanner (1801–43). who was long associated with the abbey in St Florian (p209). host important annual music festivals. The 19th century brought forth great composers such as Anton Bruckner Austria has almost Today. The post-WWII years music like no other in his epoch with opera and operetta. rather Neuwirth (b 1968). who stretched tonal conventions to snapping point phrenologists. choral and piano works. Austrian orchestras like the Vienna Philharmonic enjoy a reputa. and Olga Falco: Falco 3 (try to get the original LP with the full version of ‘Rock Me. Most was cut short because the audience fell over itself with rage. The Swiss-born Beat Furrer many as 60 addresses (b 1954) founded the Klangforum (Sound Forum). of the figures will need no introduction. Christoph Willibald von Gluck CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC (1714–87) is important because he brought operatic music and drama together. Salzburg and Graz complement Vienna as major music Gustav Mahler (1860–1911). who also composed centuries Europe’s finest flocked to Vienna in search of their generosity. Amadeus’. 100. Lower Austria the international Brucknerfest (p205). which has developed during his time in Vienna. vane registering the current direction of classical music in Europe. based on phonies. Vienna was (1824) and Symphony No 5 (1808). is celebrated in late January. piano sonatas and piano trios. Before burial. In the Alpine regions. and Innsbruck has its own Festival of Schönberg (1874–1951). a Mozartwoche (Mozart Week) it regularly to church. symphonies. In the Radetzky March (1848). the (1640–1705) composed. who collaborates closely with Nobel Prize-winning than the CD) author Elfriede Jelinek (see p55) on exciting dramatic works. TOP FIVE CDS into the foremost group featuring new music soloists today – not least because it has a long-running residency at the prestigious Paris Opera Mozart: The Magic Flute (Palais Garnier). Today Gruber is the most successful of the dwelling. a native of a season ticket for the known as early as the 12th century for its Minnesänger (troubadours). him to an early grave at 31. (1824–96). The most influential of his pupils in was preserved. masses. chamber music and traditional tunes but often sawn or pumped out with modern instruments. Franz Schubert (1797–1828). accordion. Tellingly.’ Heurigen (wine taverns) today performers scratch out a uniquely Viennese School’s Classical period (1740–1825). and organisations such as the Vienna Boys’ Choir. Haydn thought Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and exciting young composers. 2000 wind instrument tion others would die for. A premiere of his orchestral work Apeiron (2005) Arnold Schönberg: Pierrot Lunaire was performed by the Berlin Philharmonic under the expert baton of Sir Simon Rattle. the concert 1950s. the Tyrolean composer Johannes Maria Staud (b 1974) Kruder & Dorfmeister: The K&D Sessions is very highly regarded. who integrates electronic forms into his new music. this Second Vienna School were Alban Berg (1885–1935) and Anton von around over the years. like Vienna. his daughter Blue Danube (1867). The 1980s brought the next generation. His greatest works included famous compositions include Spiegel I-VII (1960–72) and the Brecht opera the oratorios The Creation (1798) and The Seasons (1801) and Symphony Baal (1974). Schwarzenberg in Vorarlberg hosts Vienna also gave us the 20th century’s most innovative composer Arnold head was purloined by has almost 500. including Symphony No 9 in D Minor In its place is possession tones of its great composers? At the low-brow end of the shelf. at the first the rest of Haydn in the Austria overflows with past masters and pretty much has been a weather public performance of Berg’s composition Altenberg-Lieder. 1905). In the 1960s and ’70s Cerha was joined by a wave of brash No 102 (1794) in B-flat Major. he lived in as three. Germany. confirmation and weddings and funerals. Josef Haydn (1732–1809) ushered in classicism and influenced porary classic scene should come as no surprise. but ‘After the call for a ARTS his musical genius blossomed in Vienna under Mozart and Haydn. about one-third make wonderful insights into his creative genius. Vienna Schubertiade (Schubert Festival.000 musicians blow are unrivalled. . and her son Joseph II was a popular operettas Die Fledermaus (1874) and The Gypsy Baron (1885). the high quality of Austria’s contem- century. Mozart was formed around Otto M Zykan (1935–2006). Johann Strauss fact. and in of Vienna. p373). He republic. Influenced by Schönberg. the gentry in Music was totally deaf by 32. Lieder (songs). echoes in hills and valleys. whose string quartets. Haydn’s another. MOB art & tone (1756–91) to be the ‘greatest composer’ and Schubert effused that the ART was one group of composers and musicians that shook up the scene. and Hungarian born Franz Lehár (1870– horns of one variety or centres and. some of the Habsburgs themselves were gifted musicians: Leopold I the Younger (1825–99) followed up with Austria’s unofficial anthem. Ludwig van Beethoven (1770–1827) was born in Bonn. setting the stage for opera as we know it today. were finally lifted out of darkness by Friedrich Cerha (b 1926).com lonelyplanet. The waltz originated in Vienna in the early 19th century and early masters The Habsburgs were prolific patrons of the arts. both were born in the capital and both explored and and finally reunited with PAST MASTERS continued the development of Schönberg’s technique. known as Schrammelmusik. Karl VI (1685–1740) stroked a violin. Volksmusik (folk music). in combos with violin. 46 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. but that didn’t stop him composing what many Austria was abolished. The skull just 19. Linz has 1948). who worked in Vienna orchestras in which about the Staatsoper (p152). Although syphilis (or typhoid) took AUSTRIAN WRITER HANS WEIGEL folk music. Early Music (p338). deft hand at harpsichord and cello. Others paddling innovative waters are Bernhard Lang Schubert: The Trout Quintet (b 1957). who composed Die lustige Witwe (The Merry Widow. Beethoven must have ‘magic of Mozart’s music lights the darkness of our lives’. where today his house of birth and his residence give Heinz Karl Gruber (b 1943). overtures. the Hamburg-born Johannes Brahms (1833–97). The Bregenz Festival (p370) is famous for productions with his 12-tone style of composition. Later in the Given such a pedigree in classic. On a more traditional note. passed performed on a floating stage on the Bodensee. was the last in the great line of composers from the Viennese Vienna Philharmonic. the Musikverein (p152) and the Konzerthaus (p152) and died there. Webern (1883–1945). What other country can match Austria’s musical heritage or the creative consider to be his best works. and in the 18th and 19th of this genre were Johann Strauss the Elder (1804–49). Tales from the Vienna Woods (1868) and his eternally Maria Theresia plucked a decent double bass.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 47 baptism. Kurt Schwertsik (b 1935) and been picky with his born in Salzburg.

but jazz aficionados abroad will probably be more familiar with Wolfgang Puschnig (b 1956. but nor could he recreate its phenomenal success.ulrichdrechsler. in German). in German) is the in Vienna each March. groove and nujazz. drugs and alcohol were rap business – the ghetto jazz sounds based on clean rhythms and melodies infused with lots of piano. Agnes Heginger (b 1973) has an education in ‘Jeanny’ and ‘Junge Römer’ (Young Romans) played with the chill of human life on the edge of toughest Austria’s got classic as well as jazz.at. (http:// Two other bands calling the hip-hop shots are Waxolutionists (www. a noises. One of its members. in June-July each year (www. a precipice. Naked Lunch (www. and not to forget the musician Falco himself. The websites will usually give you a taste of the music.com. almost part of his style. POP & UNDERGROUND www.at. in German). Falco’s influence on the develop- boredom. Austria currently has some great saxophone artists. www .waxos phoen. Right up until his death in a Balkan and Eastern European jazz artists.materialrecords. among jazz punters. to offer. 48 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.texta. which is one reason why he’s also known as the inventor of go to Linz if you’re in the headed by Angela Tröndle (b 1983) creates vocal and purely instrumental German-language hip-hop. Max Nagl (b 1960. www.at. www. his success.hdvtrio.com) was born. the duo Attwenger (www. in German) is the man in Austria to watch out for. The young trumpeter Lorenz Raab (b 1975. with his tough style and light touch of arrogance.at) and the sax and clarinet player Clemens Salesny (b 1980. Graz-born Elisabeth Harnik (b 1970) composes and improvises on piano. at the moment. But Falco himself and appears regularly at home-grown jazz events and across Europe. FALCO – LIVING HARD.at). www.org/bk. organ. Following is a whirlwind tour of the scene. on piano or improvising with groups. www. Falco brought together the chill of New Wave with a blend of English and German phrased it.at. in German) plays the bassoon and brings the zither.at. You can still feel his influence today.klingt. LEAVING BEHIND A WRECK which plays traditional and improvised jazz. Linz is the ass of a techno-punk-jazz outfit.vienna jazz. www.com. check the most established in the art. Graz-based Rainer Binder- A group of ultra contemporary artists are associated with Vienna’s Krieglstein (b 1966. in German). Her style ranges from ‘strictly harmonic to free. Linz. Which out for is Falb Fiction.at) organ are your secret vice.jazzwerkstatt. Some of the acts we others. Austria’s virtuoso of contrabass jazz. Linz-based Texta (www. Raphael Wressnig (b 1979. hip-hop and trance.lorenzraab.at). .falbfiction.org. mention here are well-known. punk.fuzz brink and performing with idiosyncratic gestures – that was the beginning of the phenomena You don’t really go to noir. www. http://peterrom.at).org). Drechsler. but if the soul sounds of the Hammond a bit deeper into the underground. the latter is Falco. whereas Kelomat (www. According to Helge Hinteregger from the Music Information Center Austria (MICA. in a bit of surfing and good old-fashioned pencil and paper you can cobble German) currently enjoys a very strong following in club culture. The Slovenian Maja Osojnik (b car accident in 1998. totally hotwired ‘Actually. and one group to watch . Fatalism was always in there somewhere. ensemble. Decked out in a suit. a stringed folk instrument. www. at. led by the saxophonist Viola Falb (b 1980.dienz .kelom. including Christoph who are regulars on the Vienna circuit and organise poetry slams in town.clemens-salesny. If your style is more rock. www.com). some of whose work is remin. www. in German).de) is currently the best-known Austrian a saxophone trio with its own DJ (www.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 49 JAZZ As well as the Jazzwerkstatt events. It was influenced by US artists like Bruce Springsteen and Bob Dylan. in German). is a hot tip year on his birthday and on the anniversary of the crash. . Austria also attracts some talented Falco’s last hit. Peter Rom (b 1972. Out of GERMAN JOURNALIST WOLFGANG HÖBEL Georg Breinschmidt (b 1973).bauchklang. founded with Zürich-born Mathias Rüegg (b 1952) and lead to a lot of wild and sleepless nights in dark places. Mosaik. Legendary songs like ‘Ganz Wien’ (Total Vienna) about heroine abuse. the saxophone quartet Phoen. the more melody-based Fuzz Noir (www. remarkable for . Jazz women figure prominently on the scene.com) and the bizarre Bauchklang (www. means. come to think of . hoppers Mieze Medusa & Tenderboy (www.’ tion or pop or anything else for that matter.mica the world: chemicals. in German) is also couple of years that they’ve risen to popularity at home and abroad.at. drugs. Christoph Dienz (b 1968. His innovation and power. Young blood comes in the form of art-house websites for current dates and venues. and Bernd Satziger (b 1977. he remained a key figure in Austrian music. .puschnig. Falco reached the peak of his career. Jazzwerkstatt figures to keep an ear open for are the unutterable certain Hans Hölzel. the three week Jazzfest Wien is held Among the figures from the 1980s. hip-hop. and Vienna’s best-known acoustic act. The the local style of New Wave later came Vienna Electronic.klingt. iscent of early Pink Floyd. a long-time resident of Vienna.maxnagl. of course you have to melodic ballads to pulsing grooves’ and goes into rock. others spend more time underground than Since then a new guard has unpacked its instruments in the clubs and above it. is the most successful among It may come as a surprise to some.nakedlunch. in German). played bass in the group and stood out from this chaotic. Austria and organises an annual three-week jazz festival (free admission) For hip-hop pure. an outfit lyrics delivered in spoken chants.com lonelyplanet. In 1982 he went solo. in German). gelled to the to the disco in Linz. .mikaella. to jazz and improvisation. and Tumido (http://tumido. Jazzwerkstatt (www.com).attwenger. Rock me Amadeus wasn’t solo.com.majaosojnik. Auer (b 1981.com. city of Austria and the which Tröndle herself plays. In the past she’s worked with were a stroke of luck for the Austrian music scene. With a number one hit in the US charts. and turned rock music upside down.com. Other together a ‘Sound of Music’ tour of a different kind (and more interesting club performers to watch out for are HDV Trio from Vorarlberg (www than the Von Trapp variety). either knew it was also breaking point and the only way now was down. and Falco events are held every 1976. when ‘Austropop’ Moving on to grooves styles. Completing the triumvirate of relative old hands.raphaelwressnig has a large following for its music with flavours of folk. The roots of a distinctly Austrian sound go back to the 1970s. in German) is possibly the most influential. and doesn’t shy away from throwing in improvisa.com). www.wurschtsemmerl and still quite close-knit scene often sprinkled its lyrics with local dialect.miezemedusa. but the music scene in Austria is one of Europe’s most exciting a new generation on the scene. in German) leads a wonderful three-piece outfit that uses a Wurlitzer One of the most eccentric bands from the very beginning was the rock-punk group Drahdiwaberl.christophauer. in German) and the big band Vienna Art Orchestra Dig into the rock scene and the depth and variety of Austria’s talent will (www. and with bars. and this small heads an exciting trio.com.at). you don’t go Brpobr (http://brpobr.com). a collective that promotes jazz in in German) does an eclectic blend of headz. www ment of the scene has been enormous. The guitarist band and have been working sounds for ages. yet it’s only been in the last Wolfgang Muthspiel (b 1965. ROCK. Going quite well-known internationally. an organisation that promotes Austrian artists. performing as binder & krieglstein. improvisation or strange who combined Vienna Actionism with rock and a damned good show. fusion.org.vao.

Known as neoclassicism (because many works had ary chapel of the Pfarrkirche St Stephan in Tulln (p173). b This effect has been put to good use on houses in St Veit an der Glan in and 1965. Features of the fortunes Vienna’s Camera Club (p153). external flying buttresses to sup. (p137) in Vienna. p128). Stürmer (b 1982. rounded arches. rococo’s extravagance bowed down to a revival of in German.architekturtage. which petered 1848.and ethnic-influenced RENAISSANCE hip-hop and trance. who are Austria’s most successful act. By the 16th century. rising possibly Vienna’s best-known DJ act. One of the hallmarks of the akin to listening hard while a surgeon removes your eardrum. www. she or. closely spaced harmonising columns and empress Maria Theresia. gran- Fuckhead (www. French Gothic (Votivkirche). the building boom reached new heights of grandiosity. with dynamic colours and irregular or undu- Age Hallstatt Culture buried its dead. fine examples are Schloss Schallaburg (p166) obsession might be ready to tune into the saccharine flavours of teeny rocker Christina and Landhaushof (p224) in Graz. mansions and houses ‘The everyone’s cup of tea.com) spins a variety of genres. Graz-born architect Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach (1656–1723) developed an Austrian baroque Architecture style. or indeed to the sgraffito façade.at). which threw plenty of cash information go to at craftsmen to build cathedrals and abbeys.de. and rich. whose wintering ground in the past has included time baroque was making huge ground in architecture.indigo-inc. Benedictine abbey in Millstatt (p308).at) is the most influential of the female DJs. your thing. including the heart and soul of the Gothic style. alone for a tendency to perform in plastic deur and symmetry coincided with the rising fortunes of the Habsburgs. is BAROQUE & ROCOCO with the With the end of the Thirty Years’ War and a receding Turkish threat. parliament building (p128) in Vienna from 1883 is a good illustration. www. Flemish Gothic (Rathaus. Vienna’s out in the 16th century. which grew to prominence from 1690 and expired around 1730. new resplendent. Some of the best are Fischer von Erlach’s including those excavated in Carnuntum (p178). Among the guys.tibcurl.at).ickemicke. including the Goldenes Dachl (p337) in Innsbruck. 50 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. symmetry ganises a platform (female: pressure) for gals who DJ and an online sound coincided base (Open Sounds).feedback-studio. who. www. both by ROMANESQUE Jakob Prandtauer (1660–1726). Tanja Bednar (aka tibcurl. Carinthia (p303). symbolising democracy with its impressively soaring columns. Electric Indigo (Susanne Kirchmayr. This happened at a Club (www. both in Carinthia. Romanesque buildings today are the cathedral in Gurk (p302) and the From the 18th century. Dig below any Gothic church and you’ll often find in 1744. triumphal style were marble columns. also in Vienna. The earliest ‘architecture’ you’ll find in Austria is a funereal form – the 700 This reflected the gushing decorative style of Italian baroque but gave it a grave mounds located outside Grossklein (p236). Having learnt from the Italian school. p152) and Florentine the Kornmesserhaus (p240) in Bruck an der Mur and the Bummerlhaus Renaissance (Museum für angewandte Kunst. The Romanesque period in Austria dates from about AD 1000 to 1250 Rococo. (Architectural Days) in Romanesque foundations. and was developed pointed arches and ribbed ceiling vaults. which ranges from worshippers giddy. will obviously not be Italian architects set to work on designing palaces. who chose it for the rooms of Schloss Schönbrunn Austrian architecture heavy. and Stift Melk (p172) and Augustiner Chorherrenstift (p209). gilded ornamentation. illustrating how the Iron specifically Austrian twist. French Renaissance (Staatsoper. but Austria also has lots of secu. which is created by applying two layers of different col. . Not to be outdone. Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt’s Schloss Belvedere (p132).com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 51 using only voices – no instruments – for its reggae. Its hallmarks are high stained-glass windows. The Ancient Greece-inspired historicism of the of Vienna’s breathtaking Stephansdom (see p124). Stage diving into the DJ scene. Gothic flavours began to pall and Austrians discov- This. Also surviving from the early days lating lines.fuckhead. and the funer. the decorative climax of baroque. and performs with a Club Crazy residency in Vienna’s Flex venue (see p153). Grecian lar Gothic buildings. p128). Another feature of Renaissance was the with grace. robes or gear that looks suspiciously like underwear. ours and scratching a design into the top layer to reveal the layer beneath. in German). afterwards you era was the arcade courtyard. For more and flourished under the Babenberg dynasty. the trend culminated in cold lines and strict find some Romanesque features today in the main entrance and towers forms in the 19th century. and elaborately carved doorway columns. grandeur very soft lounge rhythms of Saint Privat (www.com lonelyplanet. DJ Patrick Pulsinger (b 1970. Some of the best surviving NEOCLASSICISM www. and on Michaelerplatz Kollegienkirche (p273) in Salzburg and his Karlskirche (p133) in Vienna. old architectural styles. the Church (b 1968) together form the production and DJ and production team Kruder chipped in with a profusion of decorated interiors rich enough to make & Dorfmeister.at. she regularly puts on the Icke Micke Austria’s monarchy discovered urban development. If neoclassicism is (p211) in Steyr. downtempo to trip-hop and electronic rhythms. was the favoured style of the Learn more about and features heavy walls. This style was almost entirely religious in nature June. it added up to extravagant Habsburgs’ music and experimental. www. this is the best Europe has to offer. difficult to know where to start. GOTHIC When Emperor Franz Josef I took the Austro-Hungarian throne in Around 1250 the Romanesque style gave way to Gothic. Ringstrasse (p128) is Austria’s showcase from this time. along with the use of statues and reliefs on the (p135) when she commissioned Nicolas Pacassi to renovate the palace at the Architekturtage portals and apses.saintp rivat. This obsession with grace. This is high-voltage turbo industrial grunge and it’s that blended Italian and Austrian influences. You can also a classical bent) or revivalism. elaborate sculpture of the and painting.com).christinastuermer. (Parliament. including jazz. is absolutely normal compared to the equally remarkable ered a new enthusiasm for classical forms. Ringstrasse also dem- port the walls. Stephansdom is onstrates just how flagrantly builders plundered previous styles. on the site of the old city walls from 1857 onwards. Peter Kruder (b 1967) and Richard Dorfmeister interiors designed to inspire and impress. of course. Austria has so many outstanding baroque buildings that it’s of settlement are numerous Roman ruins dating from 15 BC to AD 500.com). p128).

near lines on a razor blade. life comes into the house’. p226) in Graz by British architects be harmonious with their (natural) environment. and an acrylic skin with electronic morphing capabilities. No-one embraced this sensuousness more than In an age of change. decorative and. Hundertwasser locked horns with the Viennese establishment on many occasions. And while not everyone who has battled with mould in their homes will Stephansdom. soon afterwards treading (2003. He would later move towards spiritual ecology. Adolf Loos (1870–1933) was painted canvases. This project Oberes Belvedere (p132) and the Prunkstall (p132) have a wealth of Gothic opened in 1992 and is probably the most unindustrial-looking heating plant you’ll find. Impressive but very different in its form. split from them and adopted his own more-functional style. Austria’s golden age was still just around the corner. The Biedermeier period of the mid-19th century produced leading artists . He also produced many self-portraits and a few large. the focus of the Hundertwasser creations include the KunsthausWien and Hundertwasserhaus in Vienna (p131). This eccentricity. Verschimmelungsmanifest (Mould Manifesto. The influence of the Social Democrats in the Vienna city government of THE STRAIGHT LINE IS GODLESS the new republic (from 1918) gave rise to a number of municipal building One of Austria’s most celebrated architects-artists is Friedensreich Hundertwasser. breathtaking Wagner (1841–1918. but his work can be seen everywhere in the capital. a melody for the feet. is in Vienna’s Nationalbibliothek (p126). with much metallic gold and silver to evoke or Troger (1698–1762). and homes with ‘tree tenants’. broke with his style. Meanwhile in Linz. the Kirche am Steinhof (p136) and the Majolikahaus Oberes Belvedere (p132) in Vienna. began working in historicist styles (some neo-Renaissance buildings Ferdinand Waldmüller (1793–1865) and Friedrich Gauermann (1807–62). something had to give. de. by Volkmar Burgstaller (b 1944). vivid colour and floral motifs favoured by the movement. Franz Anton Maulbertsch (1724–96) left legacies in the Riesensaal is typical of the rich ornamentation. not intent on bowling over with exaggerated confronting works. His Hangar-7 (2003. featuring organic motifs such as plant tendrils. flames and waves. including his last work – a public toilet in his beloved second home. One of Austria’s most bizarre recent constructions. Wolf Huber (1485–1553) and German-born Lukas GUSTAV KLIMT & SECESSIONISM Cranach the Elder (1472–1553). When you look at his stands in contrast to the multicoloured. including the current U-Bahn system. Taking the brush to canvas as well Secession artists worked in a highly decorative style. and he Painting complained that his more radical building projects were quashed by the authorities. believing that cities should is the ‘Friendly Alien’ Kunsthaus (2003. opposite).52 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. not least the massive Karl-Marx-Hof apartment complex. Austria has some of the world’s most impressive collections of paintings. Another. and many displays of beauty or strict lines. haphazard-looking work of Austria’s creations. Schiele worked largely with the human figure. and became a bitter critic of the Vienna’s Oberes Belvedere (p132) has a wonderful collection from the era.net. (p135). his own creative path. and other (p268) and in the Stift Klosterneuburg (p160) are remarkable legacies. p278) at Salzburg’s airport is a spectacular glass and steel claim that his uneven floors ‘become a symphony. (Art Nouveau) was sensuous. influenced by Wagner. p203). who pay rent in environmental currency. Ringstrasse buildings. The Danube School St Barbara Kirche in Bärnbach (p235) and Bad Blumau’s spa resort (p237).austrianmuseums. Paul Museum after museum is ous but ostentatious use of background colour. a creation with nozzles undulating meadows. art exhibitions and visitor facilities. the Zürich architects Hundertwasser lost a good deal of his family in the Nazi death camps and began a career in art Weber & Hofer are the force behind the cube-shaped Lentos art museum at the Akademie der bildenden Künste (Academy of Fine Arts) in 1948.com lonelyplanet. Other religious art from the Middle Ages. the Viennese Secession movement was formed by Baroque artists were relatively thin on the ground in Austria. In Vienna the style blossomed with the of his works are brilliantly executed minimalist line drawings splashed with founding of the Secession movement in 1897. Egon Schiele (1890–1918). Come the Renaissance. Viennese shifted from biblical motifs to landscapes. led by painter Gustav Klimt patches of bright colour and usually featuring women in pornographic (1862–1918). created grittier and more or neoclassical revivalism. In his famous Austria’s leading postmodern architect is Hans Hollein (b 1934). joined the Secessionists. Schloss Belvedere in Vienna (p132). August von Pettenkofen (1822–89) and Hans Makart (1840–84). Some of pretty easy to navigate. whose major work Moll (1861–1945) and painter Kolo Moser (1868–1918). With the air and ozone layer getting thinner. His greatest works include the Waldmüller’s evocative (if idealised) peasant scenes can be viewed in the Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank. The painter Gustav Klimt (1862–1918) was its first president. Some say his work is a nervous response to Bauhaus or Jackson Pollock. he designed some 35 stations of While the neoclassical period certainly produced its local greats. One of the foremost architects in the movement was Otto poses. opposite). The turn of the century brought the Jugendstil period. perhaps he was onto something. he is also one of the most entertaining – visually and literally. it’s in German but it’s on Vienna’s Ringstrasse are by his hand). designed vibrations to man’ has won followers. 1964). and bring back natural hanger housing vintage aircraft. Otto Wagner. flow- MODERN ing hair. Perhaps. interior designer and painter Carl other great baroque master is Daniel Gran (1694–1757). Late-19th-century Jugendstil Gustav Klimt (1862–1918. Now usually associated with Art Nouveau. unlike rococo. Thanks to his projects. of the Hofburg in Innsbruck (p334) and in the Österreichische Galerie of His later pictures (such as the two portraits of Adele Bloch-Bauer from 1907) employ a harmoni. and with Klimt and others who captured the age in portraits. the monumental agree with his (positive) view that ‘with the microbes and sponge. p131). Friedensreich Hundertwasser (see boxed can understand what lies behind his claim that the ‘straight line is godless and immoral’. but the ceil- 19 artists in the 1890s in order to break away from the historical or revivalist styles that domi. neoclassicism His contemporary. (unusual because it combined both) included greats such as Rueland Frueauf . he was commissioned to re-create the façade of the Spittelau incinerator in Vienna. however. he claimed to have once counted 546 straight signer of the angular glass and stone Haas Haus (1990) in Vienna. His Loos Haus (p137) and American Bar (p149) in Vienna offer a good insight into his style. The other great baroque painter. He envisaged buildings semi-submerged beneath Peter Cook (b 1936) and Colin Fournier (b 1944). see above). landscapes and period scenes. New Zealand – you maverick 20th-century architect. Nevertheless. most of which can be seen in the Leopold Museum (p130). by contrast. listed on www symbolise the emotion. text. Klimt’s famous painting The Kiss (1908) as roofs. created stunning spatial effects in Stift Melk (p172). The Secession artists included architect Otto Wagner (1841–1918). ing frescoes of Johann Michael Rottmayr (1654–1730) in Salzburg’s Residenz nated Europe at the time.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 53 the Younger (1470–1545).

faithfulness and revenge in the society emerging from a Konrad Bayer (1932–64).at. I. Both are now in Vienna’s Naturhistorisches Museum (p129). Burgundian court at Worms. popular US author John in abstract expressionism. poet and painter jewellery were all targets for design. who (1862–1931). This epic poem told a tale of passion. It also gave rise to the technique of ‘bending’ wood in furniture. and Balthasar Permoser’s statue of Prince A slice of Viennese life Viennese Actionism spanned the years 1957–68 and was one of the most extreme of all the Eugène in the Schloss Belvedere (p132). the Actions became increasingly politicised. addressing the sexual and particularly in the backs of chairs. Hermann Broch The Death of Virgil by sublime works of the 25. decide for the Wiener Gruppe (Vienna Group). day of the poet’s life. see p57). and Eva Schlegel (b 1960). staged both privately and publicly).org. but returned with angewandte Kunst (p131) and Leopold Museum (p130). This offshoot was known as the Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna Workshop). in its old town centre. without Qualities. interviews and press extracts to portray the absurd- ity of war. tiles. Covering the last www.000 years old. Art. furniture. he dedicated his life to poetry after that and por. curtains. Wallpaper. Café Central (p151) in Vienna. this staette. Pacher (1440–98). Actionism sought access to the unconscious through the frenzy of an cophagus created by Balthasar Moll (1717–85) for Maria Theresia and Franz Irving. which changed the face of domestic and a museum in Tulln (p173) is dedicated entirely to Schiele. Nibelungenlied (Song of the Nibelungs). vases. mud and whatever else came to hand as ‘paint’. in German. while the more rapturous Venus of trayed bohemian Vienna. Some of the explanations for scientific discovery. doctor wrote him off as unfit for work due to an overly sensitive nervous Not just a novel. eggs. hard work. 1945) written in a Nazi concentration camp and after Ulysses. Kraus’ apocalyptic drama Die many of these artists and should be high on the list of places to visit for letzten Tage der Menschheit (The Last Days of Mankind. many Set in 1932. but a At over 30. and Actionist The outstanding Austrian work produced in the Middle Ages was the of The Radetzky March cup of tea at www. but also some interesting sculpture. Heimito von . (1886–1951) was also very much part of Viennese café society.com lonelyplanet. His masterwork was Der Tod des Vergil breaking as Joyce’s organisation’s history at most beautiful altars were carved of lime wood during the Gothic era. p131). Josef Hoffmann was a interest in psychoanalytic imagery and baroque-era religious symbolism. regime. Actionism group. which was then slashed with knives. Some of the important names in today’s Austria’s art scene include Gunter Aside from Franz Grillparzer (1791–1872. prominent figure in the Werkstätte. also associated with Actionism when the Vienna Secessionists and Sigmund Freud were creating waves. The themes yourself whether it’s your Dadaism into their sound compositions. Der Mann ohne Eigenschaften (The Man sive statues in bronze. including several by the German master of all trades. whose sometimes-turbulent works reveal an means that some of it is brilliant but utterly useless. both former members of the tradition didn’t really take off until around the turn of the 20th century. and nothing typifies sad and amusing story using blood. to using bodies (live people. but at least much of the legacy of the movement is on show in the MUMOK (p130). the 15th century. Sammlung Essl in Klosterneuburg has and the young poet Georg Trakl (1887–1914). and the same church has impres. trays. at Schönbrunn. Austria’s literary Brus (b 1938) and Hermann Nitsch (b 1938). In the 1950s HC Artmann (1921–2000) founded affected by the end of Actionism. Broch was Hermann Broch is as Wiener Werkstätte and The enamel Verdun Altar (1181) in Klosterneuburg abbey (p160) is a scientist at heart who believed literature could provide the metaphysical stylistically ground- learn something of the Austria’s finest surviving work from the Romanesque period.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 55 The baroque period is captured in the fountain by George Raphael Donner VIENNESE ACTIONISM Dr Ed Baxter in Vienna’s Neuer Markt (p137). It was linked to the Wiener Gruppe (Vienna Group) and had its roots baroque funeral caskets should look no further than the giant double sar. written around 1200 by an unknown are applicable to any . in his The Ring of the Nibelungen operatic series. Bears tells a charming. and since that time the bentwood chair social repression that pervaded the Austrian state. Public outrage and police intervention were regular accompani. Those with a special interest in in the late ‘60s from modern art movements. and the site of Vienna’s Hofburg (p125). of their works. Arnulf Rainer (b 1929). The tomb (1502) of Maximilian I in Innsbruck’s Hofkirche writers. Hugo von Hofmannsthal (1874–1929). For 10 years the Actionists scandalised the press and be seen in Vienna’s Museum für angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied public and incited violence and panic – and got plenty of publicity in the process. and engaging in The Biedermeier period achieved much in furniture and some of this can physical and psychological endurance tests. excrement. the study of one family practices Viennese a vengeance after WWII. Quite sensibly.wiener-werk best known are today in St Wolfgang (p260) and are the work of Michael his emigration to the USA. It was a short step from self-painting to inflicting wounds upon the body. understood. who is one of the most skilful religious artists working in Robert Musil (1880–1942) was one of the most important 20th-century book is hard. Salzburg also has some distinctive equine marvels the animals from the zoo art became a deliberated event (the scripted action. ments to their meetings. dead animals) as ‘brushes’. located on Vienna’s Neuer Markt (p127). The artist’s body became the canvas. The Secessionist movement not only had a hand in painting and archi- tecture.nitsch happenings. combination of reports. as was Kolo Moser (1868–1918). Take a peak at the Willendorf. discovered in the Danube Valley. its most influential member. resulted in six months hard labour all-round. 1932). 54 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. Often poetic. The traditional this better than the one from 1804 of Emperor Joseph II in Josefsplatz in about a plan to release canvas was soon dispensed with altogether. Karl Kraus (1874–1936) works with a wide range of media. You’ll find an amusing figure of him as you enter what a novel can be. The Radetzky Kokoschka’s work is also showcased in the Leopold. but he only achieved international recognition after his death with (p334) is a highlight of the Renaissance. aesthetics came before practicality. 1922) employed a contemporary art. The (The Death of Virgil. Setting Free the extreme and very direct art: the Actionists quickly moved from pouring paint over the canvas. humorous and aggressive. The group’s activities came to an end in 1964 when hand. textual montages. committed suicide. Sculpture Peter Altenberg (1859–1919) was a drug addict and alcoholic whose Austria is blessed with two very early pieces of erotic pre-Christian sculpture. Art in Revolution (1968). realised in Vienna. and Neoclassicism was the age of the equestrian statue. can be seen at the Museum für March by Joseph Roth is Hermann Nitsch still Painting took a backseat between the two world wars. which Oskar Kokoschka (1886–1980). Venus of Galgenberg (aka Dancing Fanny) is the system. has fended off suitors for some his favourite coffee house. its members integrated surrealism and Literature empire. The other design. but more recently involved in photographing and reworking classic pieces Influential writers who emerged at this time included Arthur Schnitzler by Schiele.000 years. van Gogh and Rembrandt. his major literary achievement. complete overhaul of oldest-known stone figurine in the world. cutlery. bowls and major exponent of Viennese Expressionism was playwright. ing portrait of the collapsing Austro-Hungarian monarchy. along with other members. This seven-volume unfinished work is a fascinat- Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). Its themes were adapted by Richard Wagner long-hated. the last Action to be has also been known as the Viennese chair.

Austria may have a long history in film (1908 marked the country’s first scene. From Here to Eternity and His novels are seamless (no chapters or paragraphs. a bizarrely genre-fluid crime series with a dash of slapstick terrible Haneke’s first English. those translated into English) are after knocking back a work offer from Hitler. when director cially for criticism of patriarchy and investigations of Nazi-related Austrian Andreas Prochaska (b 1964) filmed amateur actors speaking local dialect in guilt. English. has left visiting cards in Hollywood and Witty and clever. Director Hans Weingartner (b 1970) achieved acclaim with Die fetten Jahre sympathy for the filthy Lust (1989). Theater in der . he was obsessed with disintegration 1916. and The best-known contemporary writer is Peter Handke (b 1942). taken hostage by two Wise. The provocative novelist and destruction. local variants on teren Wochen des Johann Nepomuk (The Beautiful. indulges in long flights of fancy and takes a very dim view of humanity.com lonelyplanet. mime. Wittgenstein’s Nephew. which is one of the premier backdrop for film. Both flopped on release in the Vienna society in the first decades of the 20th century. the story is quite different. Joseph Many of Austria’s early big names were successful after they travelled married me for different On the Mountain is the Roth (1894–1939). woman preyed on by 2004 Nobel Laureate Elfriede Jelinek (b 1946) dispenses with direct speech. 180 degrees since then (p32). Before Sunrise (1994). 56 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. whose work often features violence and a theme of self. two of the most famous films theatre and opera venues in the German-speaking world. avant-garde. Funny Games (1997) is full of cheesy songs. and Vienna-based (Munich-born) Daniel Kehlmann (b 1975). a A friend of Freud. guilt-ridden. the old favourite. Greek drama. Stefan Zweig (1881–1942) certainly had a rich social pedigree. Thomas Bernhard (1931–89) was born in Holland but grew up and lived in Writer and director Billy Wilder (1906–2002). Contemporary young authors who are shaping the literary scene featuring a ham-roll-stealing German Shepherd dog and plenty of local world-renowned work. Perhaps it’s something in that murky Danube water. Vienna-born director Fritz Lang (1890–1976) reasons. From Stage to Stage). Elfriede modern. during which and the last he published. played at the Cannes Film archives of www. Ground was also Elisabeth Reichart (b 1953) stands out for her novels and essays. (Wonderful. comedy. In the Männer (House of the Dying Men. but 1971). Austrian talk shows. few full stops) and seem. Out of Africa (1985) and Mephisto (1981) will need no introduction.at. 1956) depict are set in Vienna and Salzburg respectively. ‘All my six husbands one-sentence prose poem overdose of barbiturates in his chosen exile. the story of the In addition to these forms. in cinematic history. the story of a society enslaved by first book Bernhard wrote a resurgence of interest in this fascinating writer. Akademietheater (the Burgtheater’s generally gone unnoticed outside the German-speaking world. Against this backdrop. turned to controversial attacks against social conventions and institutions. 2004).afc. Bitter Weeks of Johann reality TV or specials on folk music. Commission’s website. it is bleak and bitter. told without a gram of she is worth persevering with. Die Ausgesperrten sind vorbei (The Edukators. 1992). abstract output encompasses innovative and introspective prose as Governor of California. So it’s kitsch. it seems). 2006) about first love. one of whom runs a for Darwin’s Nightmare (2004). good-to-be-true nanny. consult the Lust is the story of a rural When We Knew Nothing of Each Other. Festival. outside Rio de Janeiro. turned-businessman (it’s not worth the trouble. country. For a complete rundown Jelinek hates all her works such as Die linkshändige Frau (The Left-Handed Woman. Klaus Maria Brandauer (b 1944). 1983). both during WWII and more recently. broken in In 3 Tagen bist du tot (In 3 Days You’re Dead. were banned under the Nazis. Arnold Schwarzenegger (b 1947). well-educated young multitalented Von Trapp Cinema & TV cabaret. 1980) and Einar (2006) are all available in eration problems you take on if you kidnap an ex-student revolutionary- English. As a cinematic second stage) and the Burgtheater itself (p153). whose a disturbing study of there’s no denying the historical novel Vermessung der Welt (Measuring the World. Volksoper (p153). 1975). staring Clint Eastwood and Thomas Bernhard’s became convinced in 1942 that Hitler would take over the world. but surprisingly readable once you get into them. who moved to Vienna in Austria.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 57 Doderer (1896–1966) grew up in Vienna. based on the novel by Viennese the Austrian Film her husband and lover. His post. reaches giddying and thoroughly enjoyable heights. Vienna is home to the four national theatres and opera houses – the some boundaries. and while most Austrians still haven’t a clue about ‘Doe. football and adolescence also appears in Komissar Rex. who was besotted Lang’s silent try Cutting Timber and grim. feature film. da wir nichts voneinander wussten (The Hour Haneke (b 1942). Testing the brain’s sleep centre are noble but (Grand Austrian State Prize for Literature) in 2006 and his Die schönen bit. but its endeavours have Staatsoper (p152). popularity of The Sound early scientists Alexander von Humboldt and Carl Friedrich Gauss is highly Vienna’s tradition in the theatre was – and still is – bolstered by the A family on holiday is of Music (1965) by Robert acclaimed and in translation. wrote about the concerns of Jews to Berlin or Hollywood. His first film. tacky and today include Thomas Glavinic (b 1972). angry and sometimes incomprehensibly avant-garde. Wonderful Times. locally dubbed foreign fare domi- was awarded the prestigious Grosser Österreichischer Staatspreis für Literatur nates a bland TV landscape. pretty much captures it all: he almost ruined his Berlin film studio with the AUSTRIAN HOLLYWOOD FILM AC TRESS HEDY LAMARR die of lung disease. primarily a journalist. Die Strudlhofstiege (1951) and Die Dämonen (The Demons. Her novel stylistic plays like Die Stunde. Also contemporary Viennese authors (at least. Like seemingly many Viennese. opinions on Harry Lime and his penicillin racket have turned ings. 2005) is a richly textured novel based documentary genre. home for terminally ill men. 2006). Her Das Haus der sterbenden a teenage thriller set in the bucolic landscape of the Salzkammergut. 1984) are famous internationally are glamour girl Hedy Lamarr (1913–2000). he took an Richard Burton) are three of the more famous examples. farce and other theatrical genres are regularly part of the vibrant men who want to push family and their too. a librettist for Strauss and a victim of Nazi book burn. Berlin-based Kathrin Röggla (b scenery. star of ingly repetitive. and his The Piano Teacher (2001). For many. the director went to Hollywood. Viennese enfant Nepomuk. paranoiac and pacifist to boot. also worked in Berlin before striking out for Hollywood.’ story of a man about to in exile and of Austrians uncertain of their identity at the end of empire. The His re-released What I Saw: Reports from Berlin. Funny Games (1997). Others who and death. and espe. and director Fred Zinnemann (1907–1997. but writer Elfriede Jelinek went one step further by winning three awards there. an insightful film that shows the gen- habits of humans. There are literally hundreds of other films playwright. classic Die Nibelungen (1924). Novelist and lyricist Wilhelm Aigner (b 1954) Although news coverage is excellent. The Living had been conceived specifically with him in mind and as a result he when he Daylights (1987) and Where Eagles Dare (1968. interminable broadcasts of parliament. 1920–33 (2002) is part of astronomical budget of Metropolis (1926). technology. Zweig believed Nazism and TV programmes filmed in Austria. which is why his two great works. High Noon in 1952). A poet. but the majority of an incarcerated madman spouts Nazi doctrine. Hubert Sauper (b 1966) received an Oscar nomination on the relationship between two very different women. The Third Man (1949) and The Sound of Music (1965). This and his The Last Will of Dr Mabuse (1932). The Piano Teacher has also been made into a film. quality of the operas and operettas produced in the golden age of music. and in later works such as Holzfällen (Cutting Timber. translator. female deer’. Von Stufe zu Stufe. Die Liebhaberinnen (Women as Lovers. a deer. 1976) and One filmmaker today attracting attention at home and abroad is Michael of Austrian films in characters. Die Klavierspielerin (The Piano Teacher. 2005) about Theatre & Dance sadism and destruction.

com. known for his satirical farces. Austrian Oak’s saying The first great figure in the modern era was the playwright Franz these days by visiting Grillparzer (1791–1872). while the Theater an der Wien (p152) puts on opera. but it does have a world-class venue in the TanzQuartier Wien (p153) as well as in those venues already mentioned. . 58 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet. the development of an Austrian narrative style. Arthur Schnitzler. Other influential playwrights who still get a reg- the Terminator-cum. the 19th-century author of Der Alpenkönig und personal website at der Menschenfeind (The King of the Alps and the Misanthrope. Many Viennese authors are also playwrights – perhaps the Viennese fondness for the avant-garde encourages crossing artistic boundaries. ular airing are Johann Nestroy (1801–62). Thomas Bernhard. dance and Find out what the concerts. 1828). Elfriede Jelinek and Peter Handke (p55) have all had their plays performed at the Burgtheater. All provincial capital cities are blessed with major theatres. governor’s slightly wacky and Ferdinand Raimaund.com Josefstadt (p153 ) is known for the modern style of acting evolved by Max Reinhardt. Dance is by no means as popular as the other arts. www.schwarzenegger Adalbert Stifter (1805–68) is credited as being the seminal influence in .

and can appear in soups and desserts as well as main courses. a rich beef-vegetable soup with plenty of paprika. than you will ever need Frühstück (breakfast) is less important. except when it’s the tiny noodles in a soup. spooned into Austrian which come in a variety of shapes and forms. and Saibling. and is often referred to as Jause. non-regional edges best describes what you can in- creasingly expect from Austrian restaurants today. around . ham and a beer or wine. and usually consists of coffee or tea to know about southern with a Semmel (bread roll) and jam. is Vienna’s best-known culinary concoction. Tafelspitz (boiled beef with apple and horseradish sauce) and delicious hams and cheeses from Tyrol are often balanced by dishes with flavoursome infusions from outside a region or abroad. Nockerln (sometimes called Spätzle. Three courses are usual for traditional meals. while Leberknödelsuppe is yet another clear soup with liver dumplings. particularly in Vienna. Austrians will still sit down to www. a platter of cold meats and bread. a clear soup with shreds of crepe-like pancake. potatoes and cabbage. beans. a local freshwater fish. If they have time. It’s estimated that each Tafelspitz. Karpfen goulash and almost 40 (carp). including soup. Wiener schnitzel (from veal). STAPLES & SPECIALITIES Traditionally. Wiener schnitzel. If you’re not a soup fan. with ham and cheese. Speisekarten (menus) normally feature classic Austrian dishes. also known as Backhendl). Variations on the schnitzel theme include the more common pork schnitzel. element of many meals. whereas Abendessen (dinner) consists of bread. a schnitzel fried on its own. Schweinsbraten (slices of roast pork) and Zweibelrostbraten (slices year about 73 million of roast beef smothered in gravy and fried onions). Quellmänner (boiled in their skins). Clear soups are a particular favourite as a Vorspeise (starter). and not only at the takeaway stands. ham or cheese (or all three). ends. similar to trout. Cordon Bleu. Gulaschsuppe (goulash soup). On week. A great variety of Wurst servings of schnitzel. with an international reputation hard to beat. Other than schnitzel. a breaded escalope of veal. rolls. can be taken as a starter or a main. Regional traditional cuisine is where things get really interesting. 59 Food & Drink Tradition with new.pumpkinseedoil a Tagesteller (set dish) or Mittagsmenü (set lunch. and are not satisfied with just boiling them. people lazily while away the hours over coffee. Bratkartoffel (roasted). the best is left for last: deliciously divine cakes and pastries. million pasta dishes are Main dishes commonly appear with Beilagen (side dishes) and extras. Geröstete (sliced small and sautéed) and Erdapfelsalat Erdäpfe (boiled potatoes with chopped chives in a watery dressing). breakfast is a completely different creature. known as Mittagessen (midday meal). They appear as Pommes (French fries). with lashings of paprika. Snacking between meals is common. Markknödelsuppe is a clear bone-marrow soup with dumplings. but it is ubiquitous throughout Austria. Styria’s liquid gold. Hecht (pike). For many. Burgenland has strong ties to Hungarian cooking. Common fish 42 million portions of include Forelle (trout). the largest meal of the day is at Mittag (midday). cheese. such as Backhuhn (fried chicken.cc – more information €6 to €9) in a restaurant. Knödel (dumplings) are an digestive systems. which is invariably a cheap way to fill the belly. such as Frittattensuppe. and occasionally a full English breakfast. and the Natur. then try Bauernschmaus. (sausage) is available. while in Styria it’s hard to go anywhere . Nudeln is normally flat egg noodles. Fogosch/Zander (pike-perch). Austrians love potatoes. round off a meal perfectly. especially in the west) is small homemade pasta with a similar taste to Knödel.

overnight. Hartkäse (matured cheese). lamb and trout strudel.com FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities 61 OUR TOP EATING EXPERIENCES Im Weissen Rössl (p261) Braised cheek of veal. Stanz (p359) High on a plateau. Weingut Gabriel (p194) Wash down smoked sausage with great wine while watching storks Millstätter See (p308) A romantic dinner for two on a raft on a lake: enjoy a seven course mate above the yard of this picturesque Heuriger. throne-like red velvet chairs and a menu packed with fusion Upper Austria flavours draw trendies to the lounge. Stanz’s 65 distilleries pack a punch with fiery plum schnapps. look for Käsnudeln. a fluffy baked pudding made from eggs. tantalising with exotic and local flavours. schnitzel in this cavernous brewpub. Look for Mohr im Hemd. humungous Schweinshaxe (pork knuckles) at this medieval haunt. low beams and Lendplatz farmers markets (p231) The finest out of the Selchkammer (smoke house). a rich. good Obauer (p286) Karl and Rudi Obauer reach for the Michelin stars. colonial sauces. with delicious salads Carinthia and meats. vegetables. the Salzburger Nockerl. a cake shaped . Neusiedler See. with Leberpate (liver pâté) served at the bar. plus a strong wine and Käsestrasse (p374) The dairies lining this road through the Bregenzerwald roll out tasty cocktail list and views of Graz from Schlossberg. Restaurant-Pizzeria Simmer (p253) Pizza and a bowling alley out back. game Hohe Tauern National Park Region flavoured with ginger and other fusion elements are all at home here. an art-house cinema. also home to Austria’s Almochsen (shortened to Almo) bulls. Iohan (p231) Gothic vaulting. It is No meal in Austria would be complete without Nachspeise (dessert). Schlossbrauerei Weinberg (p216) Devour beer-drenched goulash and beer-battered cured at 1800m to achieve its aroma. Our’s Lounge (p316) Glass walls. motto at this half-timbered tavern. Vorarlberg Aiola Upstairs (p230) Chilled music. Österreicher im MAK (p147) Classics like tongue of veal find a new edge in this sharp Rudolfsturm (p102) Rustic. Scio’s Specereyen (p278) Few can resist the blinis with caviar and chocolate-coated Halle (p147) Penne with artichoke hearts meets Styrian chicken on a changing menu in the Venusbrüstchen (Venus breasts) at Scio’s. dumplings hiding small Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings). A speciality for Salzburg is combined with cheese. lemongrass risotto and beef. and the best Burgenland squid conjured up this side of the Alps. great wines and food. plus classic fare – from local MOKA (p178) Miss the last bus out. plus the best drops from local winegrowers. treat yourself to poppy seed cake and – damn it! – stay trout and schnitzel with cranberries to Carinthian Almo steak. dark pumpkin-seed oil.u. a chocolate pieces of ham. shimmering at this farmhouse high above Krimml Falls. strudel and appetising Dolomite views. homemade the city’s oldest café. delivering Beating all-comers in the popularity race is the Apfelstrüdel. Mörwald Kloster Und (p170) All the hallmarks of the Wachau are here: a lovely setting. Hölzlahneralm (p317) The Kaspressknödel (dumpling in Pinzgauer cheese) is a meal in itself Zur Dankbarkeit (p196) A regional kitchen in a leafy yard off the pink. pan-fried sugar. hidden in the forest above Kefermarkt. Afro Café (p277) Hot-pink walls. a kitchen full of magicians. wacky artwork and African flavours (such as sticky ostrich Lower Austria kebabs) make this Salzburg’s coolest café. meal ferried out by to you by waiters on a watery mission. Kässpätzle and Käsnödel are varia. and Tiroler Knödel.60 FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities lonelyplanet. pulsating Museums Quartier. filling fare while perched some 800m above Hallstätter restaurant. and fine views in two Vienna restaurants overlooking the Wolfgangsee. ivy-clad garden. Hofbäckerei (p207) Fritz Rath tempts the sweet-toothed with his famous Linzer Torte in Hotel Haidenhof (p326) Locals pile into the South Tyrolean tavern for fresh trout. breads and flowers from Graz vendors – with views. Cafesito (p371) Squeeze into this hip café for chilli hot chocolate and Bregenz’s freshest bagels Salzkammergut and smoothies. with local fare like Werfen wine and a chef to watch out for (all while enjoying breast of pigeon). flour and tions on a the theme. Naschmarkt (p149) Not just the capital’s most famous farmers market – nosh houses stand Salzburg & Salzburger Land cheek by jowl. although the best beef. Restaurant Maria Loretto (p294) Stupendous Wörthersee views. pasta made into balls and Palatschinken (crepes) comes a close second. Käsnocken. and views across the Wirtschaft zum Schützenhaus (p376) ‘Schiessen und Geniessen’ (shoot and enjoy) is the swampy meadows to Hallstätter See. plus cinema exhibition space. See – a perfect end to hiking around the lake. Metzgerei Kröll (p349) Nip into this family-run butchers for delicious Schlegeis-Speck ham. but more appetising are onions. Styria Auracher Löchl (p355) Expect walls festooned with forest animals. Germknödel are sourdough dumplings. from creamy Bergkäse to walnutty Nussknacker. meat and potatoes. pudding with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Zauberhutt’n (p294) Mediterranean influenced food. Guglhupf. without encountering Kürbiskernöl. Filmbar im Kesselhaus (p169) A hungry film-lover’s dream come true. Weingut & Weingasthof Kloster am Spitz (p195) Organically produced wines. k. In Carinthia. Knapp am Eck (p213) Down a cobbled lane. this gorgeous tavern serves sage-stuffed pork in Tyrol a lantern-lit.com lonelyplanet. with lederhosen-clad staff and enormous schnitzels.k. Tyrol specialities include Tiroler Gröstl. cheeses.

sometimes called Obstler.winesfro Brauner – black but served with a tiny splash of milk. a small sweet. In May. you might like rundown on wines from versions too). Austrian cuisine. and is sometimes served with a slice of lemon straddling of all Austrians. a ‘coffee. it’s hard to avoid Spargel (asparagus). served in a glass Come September. but especially in Upper Austria. see p195). Seasonal celebrations are complemented (white beer) has a full-bodied. together their favourite Acidic but pleasant. St Martin’s Day (November 11) is traditionally marked with the serving lover’s bible to Austrian Austria loves its home-grown beer. see p236). by Peter Austria. MORE THAN JUST COFFEE Legend has it that coffee beans were left behind by the fleeing Turks in 1683. 200 leading brands include Ottakringer from Vienna. Gösser and Puntigmer from Graz European tradition of keeping a live Karpfen (carp) in store for Christmas wineries and is in English. while Sekt is the local bubbly. searching for Schwammerl/Pilze Austrian dishes in The 100 The Ultimate Austrian wild and cultivated pears and similar to cider.com. when their numbers reached Nonalcoholic Drinks a reputed 600 cafés. from where you want to miss this crisp. Einspänner – with whipped cream. 62 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet. Radler is a mix of beer and lemonade.com lonelyplanet. really comes into its own in autumn. (kitchen till 10. Common to check what’s splashing in the bathtub before you dip a toe – the Central Austria. A Pfiff is just 0. These Mocca (sometimes spelled Mokka) or Schwarzer – black coffee the world. just look for the Busch’n (wild boar).30pm to 5pm or 6pm. unfermented grape juice. Food is usually buffet style and consists of hearty. St Martin’s symbol.30am to midnight Sobieski in celebration of for all of two seconds. 91. Fiaker – Verlängerter with rum and whipped cream Kapuziner – with a little milk and perhaps a sprinkling of grated chocolate Alcoholic Drinks Although Bier (beer) is by far the most popular drink in Austria. The ever-present Mozartkugeln (Mozart Balls) are another favourite. but why would Classic Dishes of Austria. but one-third of the country’s viniculture is now planted Melange – the Viennese classic.7% is Come autumn the whole country goes mad for Sturm – new wine in its produced in the Weinland semi-fermented state. Come early autumn. is the wine gets its name. Traubenmost. and is . Tyrol and Vorarlberg). Game. and Verlängerter – Brauner weakened with hot water region. Just before Weihnachten (Christmas). Vom Fass (draught beer) comes in a either a 0. also known as Weissbier festivities is not unknown in Austria. Check out what’s Although herbal and black teas are popular. It’s yeasty. Most is an alcoholic beverage made from apples or with their bums up and their heads down. which is drunk mainly in a Kaffeehaus (coffee house) or café. Austrians have a soft spot for Schnapps. which will probably satisfy you and décor. maustria. has a kick like a mule. glass. Maria Theresia – with orange liqueur and whipped cream tionally. Wien (Vienna) and wine-growing city in Bergland (Upper Austria. and Stiegl from Salzburg. White wine is traditionally Masagran (or Mazagran) – cold coffee with ice and Maraschino liqueur Austria’s mainstay. Elsewhere Restaurants are by far the most common place to eat.3L bagel dates back to 1683. of water. and even practice your tion in coffee houses. and in Lower Austria. some close the kitchen. Gems (chamois) and Reh (roe deer) on menus around this Christoph Wagner put (green wreath or branch) hanging over the front door. and this will generally be served on a silver platter accompanied by a glass Austrian vineyards sometimes in a Café-Konditorei. but it’s an abso. highly drinkable. It features a quality. but quite often most of the hunting takes place. during his victory over the Turks. at Bauernmärkte (farmers markets) across the country. Make your choice happening in the beverage. Wildschwein Ewald Plachutta and you’ll find stock from outside. although it bring together 19 different winegrowing areas. The tasty dish is available the entire wine. however the trad- DRINKS ition of the Viennese Kaffeehaus developed in the 19th century. Wine Guide. Austria has four winegrowing regions: Weinland (Lower Austria the cappuccino Vienna is the largest and Burgenland. freshly picked stick of goodness? It’s often served published by Deuticke. the Sacher Torte in Vienna and the Linzer Torte in Linz. hangovers resemble a porcupine waltzing inside your head. Restaurants usually open from 11am or 11. time. and is produced by breweries across the country. Grüner Veltliner is the most Pharisäer – strong Mocca topped with whipped cream. a cross between mp3 at www. Salzburg. comes in Gross (large) or Klein (small) ginger ale and lemonade. served with a glass of rum produces only 1. so it is common to mix them with 50% mineral water. when plenty of character and traditionally sell only their own wine. or from the many types. Some of the country’s better drops can be bought Heurigen are fairly inexpensive places to eat in wine areas and the capital. Weizenbier (wheat beer). Wein (wine) outshines the amber fluid. Some of the young wines can be a little sharp. Mineral or soda water is widely available and cheap. It’s found almost all over (mushrooms). origin of the humble the glass rim. Expect to find Hirsch (venison). or even the premises.125L. interna. Here’s what you’ll generally find on offer: Austrian wine terms with though tap water is fine and for the asking. Strong Turkish coffee is a popular varia. CELEBRATIONS The perfect place to sample wine and Sturm is a Heurigen or Buschenschank. Carinthia. Moser and published by the fruit-growing Mostviertel region (between the Ybbs and the Enns Rivers) with a rich. these wonderful establishments have most menus throughout the year.com FOOD & DRINK •• Celebrations 63 like a volcano. an integral part of Austria’s wine taverns. and maybe whipped cream too. creamy sauce. Austrian cuisine very much follows the seasons. served with milk. Quite often a rural created a Beugal (stirrup) these will simply be Grosse (big) or Kleine (small). with Vanillekipferl. Steierland (Styria. Türkische – comes in a copper pot with coffee grounds and sugar Austrian wine. It’s usually a light. Staubiger is new wine fully fermented and is more sour and cloudy than Sturm. Wiener Eiskaffee – cold coffee with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream lute must. and if you’re lucky. coffee is the preferred hot When ordering a cup of the brown stuff. the hills and forests are crawling with Austrians. is one local soft drink found the country over. Almdudler. They’re easy to spot. called a Gespritzer or G’spritzer. which is no surprise considering the of Gans (goose). slightly sweet taste and can be light or dark.4% of common variety. A small beer may also be inn will call itself a Gasthof or Gasthaus to denote a more traditional setting for Polish King Jan III called a Glas (glass). golden-coloured lager or pilsner (there are dark month of November. similar to in reds. is avail- able in wine regions. Rustic and rural. Falstaff. please’ doesn’t suffice. In Vienna and some other parts of eastern Austria these are called WHERE TO EAT & DRINK when a Viennese baker respectively a Krügerl (sometimes spelled Krügel) and a Seidel. made from a variety of fruits and downtime from 2. crescent cookies which have a special place in the hearts Legend has it that the clear or cloudy.5L or a 0.30pm). a fresh.

tea and other beverages.. 15.com lonelyplanet... cialises in cakes.wrenkh. Hauptstrasse 168) in Kalsdorf. the next course (acht) Uhr (akt) oor will not be served until everyone at the table has finished. there are a few places in Vienna to check out: Was sind die Tagesspezialitäten? vas zind dee ta-gez-spe-tsya-lee-te-ten . or roll the perfect What are the daily specials? Knödel. In Styria. Hollergasse 9.%01-533 15 26. www. www.austrianfoodand houses and cafés open their doors early.%01-585 51 65. and in Austria’s other large cities Food history. have children’s menus but most will be willing to serve smaller portions if Einen Tisch für . Even worse. By contrast..at. empfehlen? ker-nen zee .. Places offering cooking courses are rather thin on the ground. Hütte or Almhütte (alpine huts) are atmospheric together. try the Erste Steirische Kochschule (%03135-522 47. See p383 for more on travelling with children. Deli shops sometimes offer hot food... A Café-Konditorei keeps close to standard shop hours.. a bar/pub EATING WITH KIDS eine Kneipe ai-ne knai-pe Feeding the little ’uns will prove no problem in Austria. Supermarket delis will always have sandwiches for EAT YOUR WORDS those on the run. (cheers) and eye contact with your fellow drinkers. so don’t ramble on to your neighbour while the rest of the diners are waiting. while Kochsalon courses are group cooking events whose multicourse outcome you enjoy In mountainous areas. whereas coffee Wrenkh Kochsalon & Restaurant (Map pp120-1.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 65 available from around 11am to 11pm. I’d like to reserve a table for . or even morph into very late-night drinking dens... places for basic Austrian cuisine in stunning surroundings. a Würstel Stand (sausage stand) is never too courses. Want to know your Germknödel from your Grammelknödel? Your Wiener Bachhendl from your Wiener schnitzel? Get behind the cuisine scene. hlunch & dinner) Runs some unusual courses: its Zurufküche wine. countryside however. by VEGETARIANS & VEGANS getting to know the language.. and the country has its fair share of vegetarian food Austrian kitchen in the teenage binge drinkers and alcoholics. close from anything between 7pm and 1am. The Wiener schnitzel is and sometimes a few pastries and cakes. such as spit-roasted chicken (an Austrian favourite). it was brought back to too. please. Kleine Zeile 13-17. drink a wine or beer and play chess or cards in a coffee house/café. on the English website Radetzky’s chief cook. Hours tend to be different weekly on Austrian and international cuisine. in German. read the newspapers from the Restaurant zur Traube (%02738-229 80. While it is customary to linger for hours. www.? many smokers won’t bat an eyelid lighting up while you’re still only half way a menu in English Get Elisabeth Mayer.. but don’t count on it every time. depending on the market they’re (cooking calling) consists of lining up an array of ingredients and experimenting in style and catering to.. and German. ai-nen tish für … bi-te you ask nicely. far away. a Café-Konditorei spe.hubinger. What would you recommend? tom is thought of as rude. kochschule@moerwald.babettes. and will usually serve coffee hMon-Sat) Conducts regular courses on veg cooking with style. ikh merkh-te ai-nen tish für . A coffee house/café 17. Nonsmokers Do you have . Austrians are a polite and respectable bunch at the table. re-zer-vee-ren (two) people HABITS & CUSTOMS (zwei) Personen (tsvai) per-zaw-nen In general. h10am-7pm Mon-Fri. but your average Austrian tends to vegetarisches Essen ve-ge-tah-ri-shes e-sen Best of Austrian Cuisine.at.hollerei. www.. not following this cus.at.at.. ikh merkh-te et-vas ti-pi-shes ows dair re-gyawn COOKING COURSES I’d like the set menu. too. but if you’re Ich hätte gerne das Tagesmenü.me-noo bi-te keen to learn how to bread a schnitzel the Austrian way. I’d like a local speciality. often between 7am and 8am.com. plus cooking courses to boot. only the very upmarket restaurants have a problem with children. Haben Sie . Bauernmarkt 10. ein Restaurant ain res-to-rang /destinations/austria. reservieren.%01-892 33 56.com. 8633 Etmissl 25) in Etmissl for traditional Austrian cooking If you need something in a hurry. in www. Vegetarians will do just fine in Vienna. bitte. as well as light warm and cold meals spices. Feuersbrunn) In rural Feuersbrunn (a short hop from Vienna).? hah-ben zee . In the Useful Phrases glossary and menu guide. Many places now offer Can you recommend . 10am-5pm Sat) A food-lover’s dream. it’s believed to result in bad sex for Was empfehlen Sie? vas emp-fay-len zee the next seven years. Schleifmühlgasse house) or Café is very different from a Café-Konditorei. Note a restaurant . More often than not. dish..globalgourmet.? (and some smokers) may be annoyed with smoking habits in restaurants.. Hollerei (Map pp116-17..com that most soups are made with meat stock. 04. 64 F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s lonelyplanet. bitte. with a zillion cookbooks and serves coffee. Take note that a Kaffeehaus (coffee Babettes (Map pp116-17. Every drink bought deserves a Prost published by Hippocrene. through your Wiener schnitzel..? it’s all here under one at least one vegetarian dish. eine englische Speisekarte ai-ne eng-li-she shpai-ze-kar-te Browne’s take on the Austrians certainly like a drink. often baked on the premises. emp-fay-len website: www to rely on a combination of salads and side dishes to create a full meal. www. in general.. things can get extremely meaty. not in fact from Vienna... Ich möchte einen Tisch für . or Gasthof Vitalpension Hubinger (%03861-81 Quick Eats 14. please. in German.kochschule.at. take his or her time getting sozzled. Offers seminars and courses almost recipes can be found in 1848 by Field Marshal this would be out of line in a Café-Konditorei. 01.. 3483 Classic dishes and their the capital from Milan racks. you may have Können Sie . Some restaurants A table for . ikh ha-te ger-ne das ta-ges. wine there are at least a couple of vegetarian restaurants to choose from.. and (eight) o’clock tend to take their time over meals. Ich möchte etwas Typisches aus der Region. in German.

onions and flecks of meat fried in a pan green beans Fisolen fee-zo-len Wiener schnitzel (vee-ner shni-tsel) – breaded veal cutlets (sometimes with pork or turkey) mushrooms Champignons/ sham-pee-nyon/ Zwiebelrostbraten (tswee-bel-rost-bra-ten) – roast beef slices with gravy and fried onions Schwammerl/Pilze shva-mer/pil-tse onions Zwiebeln tsvee-beln DESSERTS pear Birne bir-ne Apfelstrüdel (ap-fel-stroo-del) – apple strudel peas Erbsen erp-sen Germknödel (jairm-kner-del) – yeast dumplings with poppy seeds peppers Paprika pap-ri-kah Kaiserschmarrn (kai-zer-shmar-ren) – sweet pancake with raisins pineapple Ananas a-na-nas Marillenknödel (ma-ree-len-kner-del) – apricot dumplings plums Zwetschgen tsvetsh-gen Mohr im Hemd (morr im hemd) – chocolate pudding with whipped cream and chocolate sauce potatoes Erdäpfel/Kartoffeln ert-ep-fel/kar-to-feln Palatschinken (pa-lat-shing-ken) – crepes raspberries Himbeeren him-bee-ren Topfenknödel (top-fen-kner-del) – cheese dumplings spinach Spinat shpi-naht strawberries Erdbeeren ert-bee-ren Food Glossary tomatoes Paradeiser/Tomaten pa-ra-dai-ser/to-mah-ten MEAT & FISH bacon Speck shpek OTHER ITEMS beef Rindfleisch rint-flaish bread Brot brawt brains Hirn heern bread roll Semmel ze-mel carp Karpfen karp-fen butter Butter bu-ter chicken Huhn/Hendl hoon/hen-dl cheese Käse kay-ze .. minced meat Hackfleisch hak-flaish Bitte noch ein . bitte. bitte. dee rekh-nung... lamb Lamm lam Ich möchte . bi-te nokh ain . please.. plaice Scholle sho-le That was delicious! pork Schweinsfleisch shvai-ne-flaish Das war sehr lecker! das vahr zair le-ker salmon Lachs laks The bill. tuna Thunfisch toon-fish Güten Appetit. potatoes and horseradish sauce grapes Trauben trow-ben Tiroler Gröstl (tee-ro-ler grer-stel) – potatoes.. please.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 67 I’m a vegetarian. duck Ente en-te Ich bin Vegetarier(in). tongue Zunge tsung-e Die Rechnung.. Semmelknödel (ze-mel-kner-del) – bread dumplings gherkin Gurke gur-ke Stelze (shtel-tse) – roast hock garlic Knoblauch knawp-lowkh Tafelspitz (ta-fel-spits) – boiled beef.. ikh merkh-te . (m/f ) ikh bin ve-ge-tah-ri-e-r/ve-ge-tah-ri-e-rin eel Aal ahl Is it cooked in meat stock? fish Fisch fish Ist es in Fleischbrühe? ist es in flaish-brü-e goose Gans gans What’s in that dish? ham Schinken shing-ken Was ist in diesem Gericht? vas ist in dee-zem ge-rikht hare Hase hah-ze I’d like .com lonelyplanet... please..rü-be Bauernschmaus (bow-ern-shmows) – platter of cold meats cabbage Kohl hawl Grammelknödel (gra-mel-kner-del) – pork dumplings carrots Karotten ka-ro-ten Gulasch/Gulas (goo-lash/goo-las) – thick beef soup cherries Kirschen kir-shen Schinkenfleckerl (shin-ken-flek-erl) – oven-baked ham and noodle casserole corn Mais mais Schweinsbraten (shvains-bra-ten) – roast pork cucumber. bi-te liver Leber lay-ber Can I have some more . bi-te trout Forelle fo-re-le Bon appétit...66 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet. goo-ten a-pe-teet turkey Puter poo-ter Cheers! veal Kalbfleisch kalp-flaish Prost! prawst! venison Hirsch hirsh Menu Decoder SOUPS & STARTERS VEGETABLES & FRUIT Frittattensuppe (free-ta-ten-zu-pe) – clear soup with chives and strips of pancake apple Apfel ap-fel Leberknödelsuppe (lay-ber-kner-del-zu-pe) – liver dumpling soup apricot Marille/Aprikose ma-ree-le/a-pri-ko-ze Rindsuppe (rind-zu-pe) – clear beef soup asparagus Spargel shpar-gel banana Banane ba-nah-ne MAINS beans Bohnen baw-nen Backhendl (bakh-hen-del) – fried breaded chicken beetroot Rote Rübe raw-te...

com chocolate Schokolade sho-ko-lah-de coffee Kaffee ka-fay cream Schlagobers/ shlag-o-berz/ Rahm/Sahne rahm/zah-ne dumplings Knödel kner-del eggs Eier ai-er honey Honig haw-nikh jam Marmelade mar-me-lah-de mustard Senf zenf nut Nuss nus oil Öl erl pepper Pfeffer pfe-fer rice Reis rais salad Salat za-laht salt Salz zalts sugar Zucker tsu-ker COOKING TERMS baked gebacken ge-ba-ken boiled gekocht ge-kokht crispy knusprig k-noo-sprik fresh frisch frish fried gebraten ge-brah-ten grilled gegrillte ge-grilt homemade selbst gemacht selbst ge-makht roasted braten bra-ten steamed gedämpft ge-dempft smoked geräuchert ge-roy-khert sour sauer zow-er sweet süss züs UTENSILS ashtray Aschenbecher a-shen-be-kher cup Tasse ta-se fork Gabel gah-bel glass Glas glahs knife Messer me-ser plate Teller te-ler spoon Löffel ler-fel toothpick Zahnstocher tsahn-shto-kher .68 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.

Bird-watchers flock to the banks of Neusiedler Hohe Tauern National See to spot the 150 different species of birds that breed in the area. marmots in the late afternoon. Tyrol’s voluptu- ous mountains to the pure lakes of Salzkammergut. WILDLIFE Cameras and binoculars Austria has abundant wildlife and while you’d be lucky to glimpse an elu. grow- becomes Central Europe’s ing 90% of Austria’s food. During Park is a prime place to the Europe-Africa migration period. To the southeast. one-stop shop for info on Austria’s landscape. By far the most fertile stretch is the Danube Valley. Austria’s greatest feature outside the Alps is the thoroughly un-blue Danube (Donau). and eventually exiting in Slovakia. form a natural barrier with Italy and Slovenia. Aside from rivers. lowlands and the salt lake freezes it granite highlands. Slovenia. Animals The critters of Austria’s alpine regions are the most intriguing for visitors. bordering Germany. The country’s most unusual lake is Neusiedler See in Burgenland. There you’ll find the ibex. a mountain goat with curved horns. flowing west–east from Germany through the Danube Valley and Vienna. at the ready…Kaiser- sive lynx or golden eagle in the Alps. so stark www. In topographic terms. it’s as though someone chalked a line straight down the middle and asked all the Alps to shuffle to the west and all the flats to slide to the east. chamois and the lake during their flight south.858 sq km of land squeezed within Austria’s borders to English sites too. water-sport fanatics and cyclists. The valley of the Inn River separates them from the High or Central Alps. Austria’s Alps can be split into three mountain ranges running in a west–east direction. almost two-thirds are mountainous. flora THE LAND and fauna. It’s in German. The Northern Limestone Alps. Switzerland and Liechtenstein. What these regions lack in mind-blowing scenery they make up for fancies a teeth-chattering with mile upon mile of vineyards and farmland. she’s an astounding natural beauty who revels in diversity: from the green vines of Burgenland to Lower Austria’s castle-speckled hills. which include the Get your skates on at Karawanken Range.naturschutz. the highest peaks in Austria dwarfed by the majestic summit of Grossglockner (3797m). Despite her diminutive size. reach nearly 3000m and extend almost as far east as the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods). Think of Austria and invariably the first thing to pop into your head are but there are a few links mountains. hills and dense forest. Joining the Danube as it enters Austria is the turquoise Inn River. surrounded by Germany.at is a is the contrast in this land of highs and lows. valleys and lakes. Italy. Hungary. The Southern Limestone Alps. there’s a good chance you might spy Franz-Josefs-Höhe in the marmots. chamois and ibex. Austria’s lowest point (115m) and one of Europe’s few steppe lakes. Austria may be small but she’s a country magnet. When The rest of the country is a mixed bag of alpine foothills. twirl. Neusiedler See. It’s an outdoorsy haven for ornithologists. In the northeast the landscape switches to rolling biggest natural ice rink. Slovakia. The glaciers that began carving up the landscape some 2½ million years ago played a big hand in softly sculpting the country’s distinctive shape of mountains. the main waterways are the Mur and the Drau. the Czech Republic. which was . Austria is riddled with lakes and it’s hard to move without toppling into one in the Salzkammergut region and Carinthia. 69 Environment Landlocked in the heart of Europe. thinning out to the east in the pancake-flat Pannonian beckoning anyone that plains. Of the 83. the same number of species drop in on spot ibex.

is the together for life. saline steppe lake. Austria’s most endangered species is the Bayerische Kurzohrmaus ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES (Bavarian pine vole). Of Austria’s national parks. dehydration. which is endemic to Tyrol and found only in six On the whole. walking. but humans are a far greater threat to its survival than its bite will ever be Park (area) Features Activities Best Time to Visit Page to our survival. rock climbing. and Pannonian steppe. cies. at one better than most nations. It’s the flowers are protected and should not be picked. to find out on their hind legs looking alert. Delicate orchids. hiking. The Triel (stone curlew). beavers. Neusiedler See-Seewinkel takes ENDANGERED SPECIES second place. ibex. mountain biking autumn are said to roam in central and southern mountainous regions such as woodpeckers Carinthia and Styria. Following close behind is the Kaiseradler (imperial eagle). point where Austria. bearded mountain climbing. year-round p213 countries in Europe. boating lation of brown bears now reaches double figures (estimated at around turtles. vultures – both ing and hunting. They’re well informed about environmental issues time extinct in Austria but fortunately staging a comeback through re. commercial operations such as traditional farm- elusive raptors and a fox) is approaching and the whole tribe scurries to safety down a network and kick back in three of burrows.9%. such as pine. avocets. country skiing over. In the east the picture is completely different. gorges. love-struck master of mountain climbing and migrates to 3000m or more come July. eagles kayaking. as is the Europäische Sumpfschildkröte (European pond terrapin). marmots regularly post sentries. high pastures from June to September.umweltbundesamt. including the country’s ‘flagship’ species below – those that stand out Aside from the country’s national parks. www. still rivers. arnica. English to download.nationalparksaustria. At around 2200m trees yield to alpine meadows and beyond 3000m. gorges. in For a country of such extraordinary natural beauty. Austrians are an ecofriendly bunch who treat their backyard localities. Neusiedler See. Although most alpine . are still ongoing. See the Alps. walking. a rare bird found only in eastern Austria. cycling. consult the Rote Liste (red dotted all over Austria and land protected by nature conservation law totals list. and the government. 70 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet. take golden eagles. bright colours Thayatal (13 sq km) rocky outcrops. For more information. Winged fauna in the Alps include golden eagles.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 71 at one stage under threat but fortunately is now breeding again. bringing the bear back to the Alps. Within this 2. short-eared owls. many young. canyoning. a small antelope more common than the ibex. protected areas and reserves are in a list that’s far too long. Hohe Tauern National Park is the most spectacular and frequented hands-down. great bustards and white storks. due to its closeness to Vienna and the plethora of water sports Like most European countries. summer p180 Although still teetering on the brink of extinction. otters. time. whose western shores are lined with a vast. Hohe Tauern (1787 sq km) mountains. is equally at choice. spruce and larch. Villach. rafting. woodpeckers only mosses and lichens cling to the stark crags. It can leap an astounding 4m the slopes in summer. activities available there. hiking. men have risked life and limb to bring such a flower to the lady of their The chamois. cycling. owls bird-watching with harsh conditions: long roots counter strong winds. The Neusiedler See. Eurasian curlews. at higher elevations conifers. See. virgin walking spring. They whistle once when a predator from It’s quite an experience the air (like an eagle) and twice when a predator from the ground (such as to learn that only 2. summer. cross- forests.at). caving.5%. At low altitudes expect to find shady oak and beech mountains. While rarely sighted. p243 Bear Life Project and the WWF who have invested millions of euros into meadows. alpine roses and purple gentian also carpet home scampering around on mountain sides. By far the most popular is the edelweiss.birdlife. which is a white. a large wildlife and keeping local economic endeavours alive.at has links to all six national parks and a brochure in spotted are avocets. forests. great cycling. lynx. salt sailing. catfish 15 to 20). summer p193 A highlight of the Alps is its flowers.com lonelyplanet. Donau-Auen (93 sq km) floodplains. falcons. which stand around NATIONAL PARKS Slovenia and Italy meet. p178 attract few insects and specially developed leaves protect against frost and forest. vertically and its hooves have rubber-like soles and rigid outer rims – ideal Of particular note again is the Unesco biosphere reserve of Neusiedler A right pair of love birds. making it one of the most wooded Kalkalpen (210 sq km) forests. for maintaining a good grip on loose rocks. However. have managed to strike a good balance between preserving the natural bearded and griffin – and a multitude of colourful butterflies. a fluffy rodent related to the squirrel. which covers landscapes from forest to the Alps collated by the Umweltbundesamt (Federal Environment Agency). meadows. spring. summer. owls. hiking. is a unique sanctuary for numerous species of bird. brown bears owls. Commonly . The Europäische AUSTRIA’S NATIONAL PARKS Hornotter (long-nosed viper) may be a venomous snake at home in Carinthia. the country’s popu. which spends 3% of its Gross Domestic Product (GDP) immigration. storks. yellow wagtails. it may come as a surprise German. eagles. storks. swimming. the national park authorities countries at the same other Austrian birdlife. This is due to the efforts of organisations like Austria’s Brown Gesäuse (110 sq km) mountains. rock climbing. rock & year-round p310 marmots. which inhabits the Danube floodplains. bers. almost impenetrable belt The Dreilädereck in golden eagles stay The marmot. Austria has its fair share of endangered spe. eagles. a comprehensive list of endangered species a more impressive 35. is also indigenous to of reeds. paragliding An incredible 47% of Austria is forested. is also under threat. Carinthia.9% of Austria falls within the boundaries of national to hike to the summit more about these parks.at. www. Like meerkats. Plants vultures. golden skiing. It’s a sociable animal that lives in colonies of about two dozen mem. bats autumn star-shaped flower found on rocky crags and crevices. which add a palette of colour to the Seewinkel (97 sq km) marshes. The flowers here are built to cope bustards. The website www steppe lake.

Austria’s tourist industry. See the Getting Started SEPP HOLZER: THE REBEL FARMER chapter (p21) for practical tips on limiting environmental impact. due to faulty valves and a pipe being welded on incorrectly. ‘Children should grow up understanding that earth is not is only a matter of time. ‘It’s time to stop the social brainwashing and when the Czech government announced intentions to withdraw from the show some civil courage. in German). Wind farms are prevalent in the flat plains in the east of the Holzer has scattered the seeds of permaculture far and wide. As well as the impact on The award-winning „ Zell am See (p313) launched Austria’s first ISO-certified cable car at the Kitzsteinhorn glacier. have a return weed. artificial erosion and pumping out artificial snow without chemicals. The following are green giants that aim to tread ing temperatures could mean that 75% of alpine glaciers will disappear within Take the plunge at lightly: the next 45 years. sions.2°C. the melting snow is sure to have other knock-on complex is the last word It operates a free ski bus in winter and runs an ecological tree and grass planting effects. Holzer observed and experimented with nature to discover that: ‘every over the past 150 years Measures have been in place for years to protect the fragile ecosystem leaf. And the waste avoidance and promoting natural forms of energy. rocks to trap and emit heat. many Austrian resorts (see opposite) now realise that they „ Ischgl (p360) uses renewable energy. paper.at.saveoursnow.com lonelyplanet. Some glass containers. in German). In 1978. and foraging pigs to till the wheat fields. every stone. and in 2000 its Temelín nuclear reactor was light will allow other species to grow. every insect has an important role to play’. Anyone that thinks they are above nature or can control it is a fool. but sticks to his guns against monoculture. In his summer seminars (see www. solar power. Austrians are diligent about separating dubbed Austria’s Siberia – cold and inhospitable. I don’t talk to worms. There’s no bilateral Melk Agreement.’ He has been fined and threatened try’s sphere of control.com. However. floods and an increased risk of avalanches. yet some forest degradation has taken place due to air he runs the 50-hectare farm according to self-sufficient ecosystems. with international projects includ- country and home owners are encouraged through tax breaks to install solar ing a self-sufficient orphanage in Thailand and a recultivation programme in Scotland. While abandon textbook theories and open their eyes to what nature is telling them. buses to reduce traffic in the village. but environmental impact.mountain „ Lech (p379) in Vorarlberg scores top points for its biomass communal heating plant. His in the Hohe Tauern many street corners. 100 years. prompting the federal Nuclear Prohibition Law. Holzer encourages people to Check out www downs. The dispute is ongoing. Others mock me. separates all waste and has free ski ecological buildings. on the one hand two enormous pools filled „ Kitzbühel (p351) operates green building and climate policies and is taking measures to resorts face mounting pressure to develop and build higher up on the peaks with spring water and reduce traffic and the use of non-renewable energy sources. Border blockades and protests flared again in 2007 dirt but the foundations of life’. Forecasts suggest Beach (www.krameterhof. but my forest is still standing when a stepping up efforts to brought online just 60km from the Austrian border. look for Flaschen Rücknahme that make the mistakes’. Austria’s ski pistes are on the de- In a bid to offset the impact of skiing. and the practice is very much ingrained where kiwis. Its excellent train connections snow affects native flora and fauna. a prediction that beach.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 73 on environmental measures. and most neighbourhoods have stations for hazardous concept is permaculture using self-sustaining agricultural systems. The materials. GREENER SHADE OF WHITE With global warming on the increase. he says. storm comes. fumes and the use of agricultural chemicals. photovoltaic panels that operate its chairlifts and its strict recycling policies. Holzer stresses. Once planted. recycles in all hotels. he adds. ‘Deer eat bark Want to know more power industry. Guten Morgen to the rain worms. Austrians voted against developing a nuclear for planting cereal crops in the forest. and is predicted to of alpine regions. assisting businesses in 25cm of new snow a few days ago. the philosophy . a mad farmer that says a feature of many cities. plastics and glass on fingered brainchild of this alpine Garden of Eden is Sepp Holzer. Ramingstein in Salzburger Land has been Recycling is big in this country. ‘It’s humans Pasterze Glacier has value that can be claimed at supermarkets. in eco-bathing. He may be a rebel. has happily signed international agreements to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources. Together with his wife. the that the snowline will shift from 1200m to 1800m by 2100. he does have a cause. . and that dozens of low-lying ski resorts such as Kitzbühel Montafon’s Mountain (760m) will be completely cut off from their slopes by 2030. For many years. water. minimal action. ski resorts have not done the planet many favours: organisms. But it’s panels. is supported by recent mild winters in the Alps. lifts and restaurants and has a are walking a thin tightrope and are mitigating their environmental impact night-time driving ban from 11pm to 6am. Yet precisely the reverse is true at Krameterhof. You’ll see recycling bins for metal. to survive. ‘I work with nature. A UNEP report on climate change published in 2007 warned that ris- run by implementing ecofriendly policies. recycling material from other waste. Holzer shrugs. exhaust erosion and catch rain. 2002 saw shut. The green- Melting ice is a hot topic in society. with renewable hydroelectric power. With its steep inclines and average temperature of 4. Some buses are gas powered and environmentally friendly trams are not all been a bed of roses back home. every plant. in particular beer bottles. An inquisitive child. prune or use pesticides. 72 ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues lonelyplanet. but I do try to put myself in the place One of Austria’s biggest environmental concerns is not within the coun. of animals and plants to consider what they like and need.at. ‘There’s no need – nature is perfect’. biological wastewater treatment and „ Mayrhofen (p348) operates its lifts on hydroelectricity.’ save the environment? ists were appalled and their concerns were not unfounded. figs and lemons hang heavy on the trees at an elevation of 1500m. Austria’s lucrative ski industry is a double-edged sword. such as wind and results are clear: 18 times the average yield using 10% of the energy. including erosion. The Czech from randomly chosen trees because they feel trapped and instinctively know that if trees fall. „ St Anton am Arlberg (p362) shows its green streak by creating protected areas to reduce mechanically grading pistes disturbs wildlife and causes erosion. shrunk to half its size (bottle return) machines. Holzer does not National Park. there are terraces to reduce disappear entirely within and soil pollution caused by emissions from industrial plants. Many environmental. plenty of Austrian resorts are now taking the green crease. while on the other their very survival is threatened by global cleaned by micro- warming. about Austrian ski resorts Republic thought otherwise. environmental agencies believe it is careful thought. and trucking in snow increases emis- mean fewer cars. The government has moved to Carrots and lettuces grow wildly here not in ruler-straight lines and the cherries are plump despite minimise such pollutants by banning leaded petrol. no radiation leaks have yet been reported. alias ‘the rebel farmer’. which monitors the power station’s safety and doubting the wisdom in Holzer’s words or the method in his madness. not against it’. sheltering scheme. ‘People have branded me a liar. Those that don’t are slaves in their own farms’.

Kaunertaler.info. Samnaun (in Switzerland). The best skiing is in the western reaches of the country. Count on around €25 to €40 for a Outdoor Activities one-day ski pass. Feeling days you take. kickers and boxes at the plateau. Almost every Austrian you meet has skied since they EUROPA SPORTREGION (HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK) were knee-high and the average four-year-old will ski circles around you on The vibrant resorts of Zell am See and Kaprun (p312) form the Europa the slopes. With its belle époque hotels improve their green credentials and minimise their impact on the environ. Tee time! Austria’s golfing is hyperactive. Carinthia and even Lower Pengelstein. check with local tourist offices or turn to the regional chapters German. but also the neighbouring resorts of Galtür. clear lakes and raging rivers custom-made for vigorous or more ski schools. and known in Austria. Austria offers some of the finest year-round skiing in the Alps at eight glaciers: Dachstein. such as the UK’s The Good capped Hohe Tauern mountain range. Vorarlberg. Rental prices for carving skis. top the list of ways to amuse yourself with an enormous pile of snow. Most ski resorts have one full of spiky peaks. see www altitude resorts. but there is also skiing in Upper Austria. vided by Österreich Werbung (p391) and the resort tourist offices. Kitzbühel attracts the champagne crowd to the swanky snow coverage is less secure at lower elevations in early and late season. Kitzsteinhorn-Kaprun (p313) and Stubaier (p345). Some cable boarding park. The ski schools are in the heart of the resort. However. Schmittenhöhe challenges experts on nine black runs. it covers plus info on summer cars will be closed for maintenance and many hotels and restaurants will be not only Ischgl. The only little as half that charged in the jet-set resorts. beginners the skitterbug on the nursery slopes in chocolate-box villages such as Filzmoos (p286). après-ski and clubbing. in swishing through frozen woodlands on cross-country trails and finding season rates. though Sportregion (www. Out-of-season skiing guide. More information on ski resorts can be pro- from May to September. Off-slope activities include Austrian Alps are fine specimens of mountains: high enough for one to hurl 50km of winter walking trails and romantic horse-drawn sleigh rides.austria. Pitztaler. 74 lonelyplanet.sportwelt-amade. Abtenau near Salzburg in Go to Austria in winter and you’ll find that skiing and snowboarding still ing and village charm. The Silvretta Ski Pass costs €247 for seven days. Filzmoos lies at the foot of the ‘snowball’ when they hit the powder for the World Golf Championships in SKIING & SNOWBOARDING Dachstein massif and is a low-key. KITZBÜHEL-KIRCHBERG (TYROL) Sölden (p357). thanks to its vibrant Get clicking on www Heldenplatz. Snowboarders are well catered for at Kitzbühler buses between the ski areas.at. Weekly ski passes are quoted here at high- www. with a gigantic backyard snowboards are roughly the same as carving skis. ski resort in Austria. to mid-December fall between the summer and winter seasons. Among them are Radstadt (p287) and Filzmoos (p286). including ski nerve-splintering Streif run. The most resorts in the Alps have T-bars. kickers and self-timer course. lift February. Zell am See retains an authentic feel unlike many Get your skates on in ment (p72). low enough to give weekly pass is €196. The queues are short and the pistes uncrowded. Mölltaler.info) and share 132km of pistes. Austria has hundreds of excellent ski resorts and no attempt skiing is possible at Kitzsteinhorn glacier and snowboarders should check has been made to cover them exhaustively. and attractive lakefront. A down black runs in big resorts like Mayrhofen (p348). Hintertuxer (p349). The more A great introduction to limelight with gravity-defying sports designed to make you scream.com WINTER •• Skiing & Snowboarding 75 buying half-/full-/multiple-day passes. with 230km of pistes for powder junkies to maps and details of every . and mountain biking. family-oriented resort with gentle ski. the slopes include the Austria.com for piste details. Snow or shine. Kappl and activities such as hiking shut. The entire region affords gorgeous views of the glacier- Vienna for the Friday criteria.fridaynightskating. Austria is a great place to get into the outdoors. the never-ending list of daring? Catch thermals with a parachute or abseil down a waterfall. Many are now taking steps to out the rails.com) lures skiers WINTER with a whopping 865km of snow-sure slopes in 25 resorts.europasportregion. in German. You’re usually better off downside is Kitzbühel’s comparatively low altitude. A six-day pass costs €179. Ischgl (p360) forms part of the Silvretta Arena meet up at 10pm on Information and is swiftly carving its name as Ibiza in the Alps. but you’ll avoid the crowds and find prices at their lowest. which means snow is . stocks and shoes are around €20 to €35 for one day for downhill skiing. hotels and restaurants in its medieval heart. it’s not a dedicated slopes of the Maiskogel are suited to families and novices. The powder is good. Skiing and walking (p82) are perennial favourites and share the will normally set you back around €250/60 per day respectively. night skate sessions Skiing & Snowboarding Guide. May to June and late October play on. SILVRETTA ARENA-ISCHGL (TYROL) Like-minded bladers Located in the Paznauntal. but they’re tourist board’s website If that sounds too hair-raising. The biggest crowds descend on the slopes at Christmas. the skiing mostly intermediate. New Year and in February half-term holidays. Individual tuition and group lessons are available and activities. bounce outdoor activities on offer down the Alps in a snow tube or on the back of a bone-shaking mountain Ski Regions & Resorts in Austria is the national bike. A fine mix of intermediate and advanced. Salzburger Land and Tyrol are the most popular destina. this country for details on possible discounts. Pass prices for little-known places may be as Horn’s fun park with a half-pipe. your (very big) feet in a pair of snowshoes. For a detailed rundown of resorts based primarily on skiing purpose-built resorts. Ski passes cover the cost of mountain transport. Those seeking big air should check out the half-pipe and snow. pros give a whole new SPORTWELT AMADÉ (SALZBURGER LAND) meaning to the word Salzburg’s Sportwelt Amadé (www. For route The skiing season kicks off in December and lasts till late April in the high. the lifts are ultramodern and . The twin ski resorts of Kitzbühel (p350) and Kirchberg are among the best- most alpine glaciers are now receding in the face of global warming. with substantial reductions for longer-term passes. lifts and cable cars. while the gentle While this book features plenty of skiing information. while Kirchberg is more relaxed.bergfex. consult a specialist book or magazine. the cheaper it gets. with reduced rates offered over longer periods. The following are the pick of Austria’s ski regions and resorts. They share 150km of prepared pistes and are linked by the 3S cable car at tions. there’s drama to be had in silent moves – just a taste of what’s up there.

with a 78-degree gradient that catapults skiers into the unknown „ Boozing Après ski heavyweight? St Anton am Arlberg (p362) wins hands down. cross-country skiing in Austria is considerably tourist office at 9. The weekly Zillertal Super Ski Pass „ Snow-sure slopes Topping 3000m. the lively resort’s 150km of slopes include many red „ Vista vultures The views of the glaciated peaks of the Hohe Tauern National Park from the first slalom competition in and blue runs. Even when snow lies thin Ischgl (p360). 222km of pistes mostly appeal to beginners and intermediates. A weekly pass costs €224. the Arlberg (www. Experienced skiers seeking a leg-burner can attempt the Big 3 Rally.at) features 276km of groomed slopes. It’s very steep. snug chalets and awesome Piz Buin views. (p348).. The season here is one of the longest in Austria „ Cross-country Seefeld (p345) and Bad Gastein (p320) are perfect for living life in the slow running from November to May and a weekly ski pass costs €228. ing through the pristine countryside. where one of ARLBERG (TYROL/VORARLBERG) Europe’s longest floodlit runs at 2. Most skiers that make it this far have the Big 3 in mind: a pitch-black. the resort’s easy access to the Hintertux Glacier means plenty of skiing is always available. Thrill seekers with 200km of groomed trails providing panoramic views of the Hohe head for St Anton to ride the brand-new Galzigbahn gondola. and there’s no turning baaaaaack… penned the first skiing trio of ‘three-thousanders’ that are the ultimate in high-altitude. Austrian Matthias Zdarsky coverage is superb. at your own pace and live the beauty of the forest and mountains in slow motion. BEST SLOPES FOR.50. freewheel- Seefeld (p345) features among Austria’s top cross-country skiing desti. „ Night skiing Hermagor (p301) is a great base for skiing Nassfeld’s slopes. The greener and cheaper than skiing.50) covers 157km of piste and 49 lifts in the Zillertal area. skiing history in 1905.com lonelyplanet. Silvretta Nova–Montafon a family favourite.lawine. pre.at. Other great resorts to test your stamina and stride off-piste runs below Valluga and test out Rendl’s half-pipe and jumps. (p313) offer deep powder for pre. dubbed ‘Ibiza on skis’ for its penchant for Europop and wild inebriation. long-distance skiing. This peaceful region has a out sinking. SILVRETTA NOVA-MONTAFON (VORARLBERG) SNOWSHOEING Silhouetted by Piz Buin (3312m). During the winter season. on the ground in Mayrhofen. although there is some trickier off-piste terrain. two terrain parks includes enough black runs to keep daredevils on their toes. Originally little more than strap-on tennis rackets. invented valley with diverse terrain. Alongside have marked trails where big-footed snowshoers can head up to the hills. Austria is best explored with your bum on a seat. 76 WINTER •• Cross-Country Skiing lonelyplanet. „ Families Heiligenblut (p319) for its relaxed vibe and Bobo’s Kids’ Club. Hot contender? (many take one look and judiciously turn back). lane with glorious mountain scenery and mile upon mile of cross-country trails. A weekly pass covering this and nearby ski areas (including Wilde Kaiser-Brixental) costs €202. Its varied terrain for skiers and boarders „ Snowboarding For big air it has got to be Sölden (p357). Sölden (p357) in the Ötztal is one of the country’s highest resorts and snow „ Ultimate scream Mayrhofen (p348) for the breathtakingly sheer Harakiri run. and the Big 3 (three mountains above 3000m).45am from Monday to Friday (register in advance)..or late-season cruising. and Kitzbühel. Austria’s un. four-hour race. with around 45km of prepared trails. The basics are easy to master and tracks are graded from blue SUMMER to black according to difficulty. A weekly pass (€198. including Schruns/Tschagguns. disputed king of scary skiing reigns here – the mogul-free and kamikaze-like „ Cruising Kitzbühel (p350) for its perfect blend of blues. Mayrhofen (p348) in the Zillertal combines steep slopes with broad pistes perfect for carving and cruising. combed with 90km of well-marked après-ski scene here is unrivalled in Austria. Lech and Zürs mainly offer red stretch from Seefeld to Mösern. the Hintertux Glacier (p349) and the Kitzsteinhorn Glacier (€197. For many. abundant sledding tracks and winter hiking trails make costs roughly €15 to €20 to hire a set of shoes and sticks for the day. Comprising the swish resorts of Lech (p379) and Zürs (p379) in Vorarlberg and devilish St Anton am Arlberg (p362) in Tyrol. It downhill skiing. the filthy rich and supermodels on skis. „ Celebrity spotting Lech (p379) and Zürs (p379) in Vorarlberg have earned their exclusive ÖTZTAL-SÖLDEN (TYROL) image with five-star pads welcoming royals. (p350) where routes around the Kitzbühel Horn and Reith reveal the resort’s tranquil CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING side. guided snowshoe hikes depart from the Locally known as Langlauf. cross-country trails. snowshoes reports in Austria’s ski clutch of small. reds and blacks. The country is blessed with miles nations. Serviced by 62 lifts. the Montafon ski area (p378) stretches It’s immensely satisfying to make tracks through deep. Filzmoos (p286) for its ZILLERTAL-MAYRHOFEN (TYROL) central slopes and off-slope activities such as horse-drawn sleigh rides. with 262km of tracks crisscrossing the region and a 3km floodlit of well-marked cycle paths that pass through lowlands to the east and . with a half-pipe. Zell am See (p312) is hot on its heels and blue runs. the twinkling woodlands in quiet exhilaration.com SUMMER •• Cycling & Mountain Biking 77 no longer guaranteed. the first practical ski which conquers all three peaks in a marathon 50km. If that binding and organised the seems a little ambitious. Skis give you the traction to walk uphill treks are €5 or free to visitors with a guest card. It costs around €15 to €20 to rent a pair of CYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING cross-country skis for the day.skiarl berg. speed down Tauern mountains.2km lures after-dark skiers every Wednesday night. Harakiri. a pristine manual in 1897. The nearby Rettenbach and Tiefenbach glaciers are great for slopes above Zell am See (p312) will blow you away.and post-season skiing.50) covers Prime spots to explore the snowy backcountry include Mayrhofen seven resorts. The two main techniques are the classic lift-and-glide method on prepared Loipen (cross-country tracks) and the more energetic ‘skating’ technique. „ Postcard scenery Eschew the Jägermeister parties in favour of Montafon (p378). Gargellen and Gaschurn. Many resorts in the Austrian Alps on www. laid-back resorts ideal for finding your ski legs on gentle pistes have evolved into lightweight contraptions that allow you to shuffle through regions are updated daily or getting off the well-bashed slopes with ski touring. The include the Bad Gastein region (p320). virgin snow with- Weather and avalanche along a valley in the southeast corner of Vorarlberg.

sticks close to the turquoise Inn River. this trail with a technique park and plenty of trail information at the tourist office. Frankenberggasse 11. Route details and highlights are given Austria.dachste inrunde.esterbauer. INN TRAIL some climbing to almost 3000m. the trail can be split into shorter chunks (see www. The trail cuts a path blazes through three provinces: Salzburger Land. Warmer temperatures but signage varies between regions. The route offers wonderful . the 325km Tauern a selection of quality bikes in 140 stores throughout Austria. %01-505 09 07. see the website www.com for downloadable GPS Plan your two-wheel SALZBURGER ALMENTOUR BODENSEE TRAIL tours in Austria where adventure online at On this 146km trail. A highlight is freewheeling You’ll need a good level of fitness to tackle the 182km trail that starts past terraced vineyards. the Silvretta Mountain Bike Arena in the Patznauntal is among the biggest in the Alps.com lonelyplanet. while downhill mountain bikers head to the Alps from late June to mid-September. pedal through river valleys or ride rings around crystalline lakes. signs. Upper Austria and Styria. Hallein. ing Hallstätter See (p249). this villages and rolling countryside to Schärding. The has offices throughout the country and books (also in English) on the sub.com. this three-day Shadowing the Danube (p164) for 380km from Passau to Bratislava. and finishes in Bad Goisern. Germany and Switzerland. Whether you want to tear down the castles in Kufstein and Bavaria. with Touching base with Vorarlberg. www. the mountain bike and www excellent info in English route involves some strenuous climbs up to tremendous viewpoints like on cycling routes and through Austria. Those that want to plan their route ahead can search by region and the trail passes the hilltop fortress of Hohenwerfen and the salt mines of book a bike online (www. You’ll pedal through 1300m of descent.com SUMMER •• Cycling & Mountain Biking 79 mountains to the south and west. Bavaria and Upper Austria. in German). tips the Alps and picnic pitstops at pebbly bays. you can get dirty on your ily explored by bike on a 270km cycleway that circumnavigates the lake in three days. While the name conjures up visions of gentle meadows. then alpine valleys dominated by . It’s basically downhill all the way. Below is a sample of the tours that lure less gruelling and sacrifice none of the splendour. Most of the routes circle the super-fit and speedy. Attersee and Wolfgangsee.intersportrent. but cycling at high altitude requires stam- range from €15 to €25 and the seventh day is often free on week rentals. Freytag & Berndt and Kompass hiking maps are reliable Salzkammergut. ina. offering Taking in some of Austria’s most spectacular scenery. SALZKAMMERGUT TRAIL The local tourist offices usually stock brochures and maps on cycling This 345km circular trail explores the lake-studded Salzkammergut. Ischgl (p360) makes an excellent base Starting in Innsbruck (p331) and travelling 302km to Schärding. two-wheel-friendly land has all the right ingredients. For details.bike-holidays.000km of Cycling mountain bike routes.com. through woodlands. deep valleys and orchards. Intersport has a near monopoly on rental equipment. City and mountain bikes are available for hire in most Austrian towns TAUERN TRAIL and resorts. For Green-and-white signs indicate the way on both sides of the river. this tour circles the rugged limestone pinnacles of the Dachstein massif and route’s smooth trails make it popular with easy riders. Argus (Map pp120-1.radtouren. with the most challenging terrain in Vorarlberg. includ- and mountain biking. 78 SUMMER •• Cycling & Mountain Biking lonelyplanet.almentour.at. Marked with red-and-white up afterwards. The Alps offer a bumpy ride. It begins at the thundering Krimml Falls (p317). Cycle clubs are another good source of information.argus. Veering north.com for scenery – from forests to apple orchards and vineyards – fleeting views of Zwölferhorn peak. . mountain biking and now allow cyclists to take their bikes on the cable cars for free or for a nominal charge in the summer season – maximising enjoyment and avoiding the sweat and strain of the uphill slog! Mountain Biking The Austrian Alps are a Mecca to mountain bikers. Surf www. bikes. . scenic route contours around lakes set against an alpine backdrop – there’s ject. Green-and-white signs indicate the trail from Annaberg the best places to clean bike-friendly hotels in to Edtalm via Wolfgangsee (p260). Many of the onto gentle pastures around Braunau am Inn and Schärding. with its hairpin bends. The route is well marked.or. in German) Bikeline books cover nothing like pausing for a refreshing dip in their waters to relieve saddle Austria’s major trails in detail. in German. The final flat stretch zips through quaint Alps. Grazing the Swiss border.com) making it a great option for families. Tour details are available at www.at). involving passing through Tyrol. backbreaking inclines and steep descents. more details pick up Esterbauer’s Danube Bike Trail (containing maps and instructions and practical information) or a free copy of the bilingual SILVRETTA MOUNTAIN BIKE ARENA Donauradweg – Von Passau bis Bratislava. pausing en route near Filzmoos (p286). The final leg leads you through Salzburg and the Saalach Valley Bikes can be taken on Austrian trains ÖBB (see p400). sources for cycling.at. bikers pedal through 30 Almen (mountain pastures) www. the vast Lake Constance (p369) is eas. The country offers 17. Salzburg and Carinthia.at.at. pick up Esterbauer’s Radatlas easy to navigate.ischgl-bikeacademy fertile farmland on Innsbruck’s fringes. lakes or follow the course of rivers and include those outlined following. The 15 freeride trails for speed freaks include the Velill Trail.bodensee-radweg online (www. The trail is country’s leading resorts have cottoned onto the popularity of downhill marked with green-and-white signs in both directions. Day rates tour is not technically difficult. Vienna) but the trail is well marked and only a moderate condition is required. DACHSTEIN TOUR DANUBE TRAIL Hailed as one of the country’s top mountain bike routes. and brochures. they are in German but are reasonably sore! To explore the area in greater depth. The trail is signposted (R2) in both directions. but Austria has numerous flat trails that are Tyrol. Esterbauer’s (www. lofty cliffs and baroque abbeys in the Wachau. from May to October beckon cyclists. with 1000km of trails. then snakes along the All prices include bicycle helmets and there’s a 50% reduction on children’s Salzach River with vistas of glaciated Hohe Tauern peaks. in German. plus maps. It’s not exactly flat. as they invariably have cycle trails marked.bike-gps.

at. bike trails. a regional rundown of you’ll find paragliding and hang-gliding in Austria. This adrenaline-fuelled sport has to go by.skydive. taking groups high up into in lakes such as Hallstätter See (p249) and Attersee (p259). Sailing. Hallstättersee. Podersdorf in Tyrol are flanked by high peaks crisscrossed with 800km of mountain am See is a great base to grab a board and catch the waves. try getting a grip on ice climbing! waterfalls and glaciers constantly drifting into view. Sanna and Ötztaler up for skinny-dippers. skydiving may be just the ticket. the Inns. the Zillertal Alps. doggy paddle areas on the rate climbing school in Mayrhofen (p349). When the sun’s out. www. Big rivers which support such adrenaline Island in Vienna are set ROCK CLIMBING sports include the Enns and Salza in Styria. like Sölden (p357) and Mayrhofen (p348). if Olympic medals are anything waterfalls appeals. The must-experience rides include the Hahnenkamm topsy-turvy side. Urisee check out the dedicated Kufstein in Tyrol. bounce. and the locals aren’t bad at. Many resorts have places where you can hire the gear. one of the few steppe lakes in Central Europe. WATER SPORTS Austria is dotted with more than 6000 lakes and a mammoth number of rivers coursing through its valleys that offer more than enough places to enjoy water sports.com lonelyplanet. „ Mind the gap This is a tube with a difference – one that glides over hard-packed snow at spread your wings in jaw-dropping speeds. Peilstein. the Kitzbühel (p350) region GOING TO EXTREMES rates as one of Austria’s top freewheeling destinations. The closest thing to And they call it puppy which advises on places to go and runs rock-climbing courses. out of a plane at 4000m and freefalling for 60 seconds before your parachute opens is the paragliding and Of the two. Seestrasse 17b. . „ An ice climb If you thought regular climbing was slippery. ment is more portable.at. Klagenfurt and Neusiedler See. and Salzburg (see www. you’ll love canyoning. which can is taking a dip in one of only Brits were soppy rock-climbing centres include Dachstein in Salzkammergut. in German. paragliding wins the popularity race. Routes range from 700m to 2300m in elevation and encompass trial circuits. followed by nothing they love Ötztal (p356) and St Anton am Arlberg (p362). about canyoning specialists in the region. your own Bluelist and upload it onto our website – www. Other one of Austria’s lakes. Rolling flight schools offering soaring above the pinnacles and floating effortlessly on thermal drafts. %02167-40 243-0. It’s impossible to have mountains without Klettern (rock climbing) and Ache in Tyrol and the Isel in East Tyrol. Austrian mountaineer Peter Habeler (p89) runs a first. the Hohe Tauern National Park and Wilde Kaiser near Wörthersee (p295) offer open-water swimming and scuba diving with great include Thiersee. Salzkammergut is another prime spot for a summertime splash. downhill runs „ Go ahead.at.flugschulen. 80 S U M M E R • • Pa r a g l i d i n g lonelyplanet.com. Rafting.lonelyplanet. plus the Ehrenbach trail with jumps. Find the best place to that twist up from Ginzling to the Schlegeisspeicher. Ubiquitous nudist the bottom provide welcome respite. Absolute Outdoors (%03612-253 43. but the ice-cold pools at verband. Slide over to the Stubai Glacier (p345) in Tyrol to give it a go. The Neusiedler See (p193) is the number-one beaches reveal there’s destinations calling budding Indiana Joneses are Mayrhofen (p349). or go as a passenger on a tandem flight. To discover Vienna’s and bike parks. A good introduction centre for rafting. CANYONING Zipping across lakes by wind power is the most popular water sport in If the thought of hurling yourself down crevices and abseiling down frothing the country. it gives Wherever there’s a high mountain accessible by cable car and a constant wind. Hochkönig heat up to a deliciously warm 26°C in summer. with narrow valleys and plenty of cable cars.com SUMMER •• Water Spor ts 81 KITZBÜHEL Covering 750km of mountain bike trails. visibility. get a lesson. abandon your skis or sledge for the day and get your Austria at www PARAGLIDING hands on one of these robust rings for heaps of fun spinning down the slopes in ski resorts . with prices fluctuating between €45 and €90. Tyrol is traditionally a centre for paragliding. Inquire at local tourist offices the lakes of Carinthia and Salzkammergut.at for details). Daredevils can also plunge of Grossglockner and Wilder Kaiser. the world’s highest bungee jump from a tower. For a taste of the extreme water action. For a change. Ausseerstrasse for would-be Spidermen or women is the Österreichischer Alpenverein (p83). is often used for such weekend courses. Tandem jumps are available all over Austria – from Vienna to Graz hang-gliding. near Salzburg. Österreichischer Segel-Verband (Austrian Sailing Federation. Canyoning is graded according to and Vorarlberg the Bodensee (p369). windsurfing and kite-surfing are all here to be had. jump Austria’s mountains aren’t the only high points. take a deep breath and leap into oblivion from the needle-thin Donauturm Bike Safari from Kitzbühel to Pass Thurn. affording far-reaching views (Danube Tower). Tyrol has the Achensee (p350) better than stripping off. Liezen) is a reputable company offering trips on all the above rivers. simply because the equip. Millstätter difficulty and length. Milstätter See (p307) and Austria’s pure lakes. ultimate adrenaline rush. sunny days in the Alps. when the sky is dotted with people „ Going down… If you think paragliding is for wimps. www. beaches at Millstätter See. make a beeline These two broad valleys (p345 and p346) running south from the Inn River for Neusiedler See in Burgenland. the established itself as one of the most popular activities in the Austrian Alps. these about their pooches.rafting. the lake for such activities (probably because Vienna is so close). canoeing or kayaking the white waters of Austria’s alpine rivers See and even the Danube are other favourite pastimes. there’s little that’s more invigorating than a dip in bathing in mineral water love… If you thought in the Vienna Woods. but you’ll need a decent pair of alpine route from Mayrhofen to Hintertux Glacier and the dizzying roads crampons and a good instructor. and Plansee in Tyrol. with gorges. It’s particularly exhila- rating on bright. Carinthia is famed for its pure waters. Among the hundreds of crag-riddled and locations in the country. 2-4. A-7100 Neusiedl am See) can provide a list of clubs Nah. A good Got some fantastic tips about Austria that you’d love to share with Lonely Planet readers? Create place to head is Fly Zillertal (p347) in Zell am Ziller. „ Gone with the wind Kite-surfing is all the rage on Austria’s lakes and it’s about as much fun STUBAITAL & ZILLERTAL as you can have wearing a wetsuit. The terrain is varied and the landscape splendid. Imst (p358) is a well-known Austria is covered with rock-climbing opportunities. Highlights feature the Scaling frozen walls and waterfalls is pure adventure.segel Austrians prudish? Sliding through a gorge requires nerve and effort. 192m from the Europabrücke bridge spanning the Sill River for a thrilling upside-down drops and natural obstacles.

Viktoriagasse 6. and paths are clearly INFORMATION indicated on all of them. Seeing the morning clouds blanket the mountains. Outdoor-activities shops usually sell a Circuit VIENNA source for more specific and detailed informa. but there is an extensive collection hitting the trail. With its rugged peaks. finest landscapes – and the only way to truly discover them is by schlepping a backpack and Paths are coded with the same colours that German. this country’s high-altitude terrain is still laced with adventure: from flirting stride during the summer rush hour (July .000 national map No 730 Austria. which you can order walks. The practice of marking mountain centrates on Austria’s lowlands. savour simple home hikers. Lithe 70-year-olds nordic ANTO. while to the east the soft tapestry of vineyards and hillocks are tailor-made for moderate (trails are fairly narrow and steep). shops in the major cities offer a wider selec- UPPER AUSTRIA Spitz-Schwallenbach Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15. Vienna). The club also Mountain Walking in Austria. the Austrian Alpine Club (%01929-556 of multi-day routes.000 scale are produced by The Österreich Werbung (Austria National Tourist Office. Austrian Alpine are available in these outlets. There are plenty of high-quality walking glaciers. Check out the regional tourist offices The best place to stock up on maps in for details on province-specific hikes and free Austria is at a Tabak (tobacconist). www. keen to identify the local flora. Wareham BH20 4AG). For a more contemporary treatment Radsattel Zillertal NATIONAL PARK Circuit Circuit in England. and many spend their weekends walking in the mountains. red for of maps. easy cooking and delight in tumbling out of your bunk at 6am. thun. Adult membership costs €48. news- walking brochures.000 ser- family jaunts to multi-day treks for serious ies. %0512-595 47.50 per year. limited variety of walking maps. LOWER AUSTRIA tion.uk. cool beer and cushy beds. www.aacuk. Spaziergang Krimml Falls Loop SALZBURG & SALZBURGER LAND the club or be a member of an alpine club in but some route descriptions can be up to 20 HOHE TAUERN your home country. Spending a night in one of these snug ing information on everything from themed yet detailed Alpenvereinskarte 1:25. ting off. THE BURGENLAND with substantial discounts for students and Books SALZKAMMERGUT people aged under 25 or over 60. Freytag & Berndt (F&B) and Kompass. Many local tourist offices hand out basic refuges is a highlight on any trek – a chance to natter with the locals.82 lonelyplanet. Innsbruck) is an excellent tion. in German. Bäckerstrasse 16. long-distance trails with little more than a Alternatively. Both But it’s the locals that give trekking in Austria its unique flavour. welcoming walkers can be found on its website. The book con- Rosengartenschlucht Circuit Hallstatt VORARLBERG Circuit TYROL Pinzgauer STYRIA organises walks but you have to either join centrates on the alpine areas of the country. If you’re Garnitzenklamm Of the 1000-odd huts in the Austrian Alps. along with walk. www. are supremely knowledgeable. members The standard English-language walking guide- Gosaukamm Puchberg to Schneeberg pay half-price at alpine huts and receive other book to Austria has long been Cecil Davies’ Kaisergebirge Circuit Circuit Tennegebirge Obertrauen to benefits including insurance. crinkly valleys and sparkling rivers. map requirements. online and use to plan your route before set. an ever increas- information are the Naturfreunde Österreich (NFÖ.info) has offices include small booklets. the Österreich Werbung (Austria Giving a walker the pick of the Alps is like giving a child the run of a sweet shop. The first con- ahead. See the individual walks for specific the peaks gold. Kompass Circuit 241 are maintained by the ÖAV. %01-892 35 34-0. For families and ramblers seeking something gentler. Friends of Nature Austria. To the west the Alps flick out like a dragon’s tail.info) can send you a free copy of its 1:800.at.at. and staff pinnacles. which can be photocopied. Vienna) and ing number of walking paths are indicated by the Österreichischer Touristenklub (ÖTK. www.austria. complete with colour illustrations. lazy ambles. The standard ref- dering waterfalls and meadows riddled with marmot holes to explore. %0810-10 18 18. or rock. If you prefer sion. and regular signs point out the way in German.austria its accessibility. use the clear with farm-fresh cheese.touristenklub. there are deep gullies.org. curling up by an open fire and black for difficult (these trails are only after an uphill trudge and witnessing the springtime eruption of violet and pink on alpine for the physically fit. www . %0810-10 18 18. that list contact de- walking (walking with ski poles) in the hills and rock climbers limbering up on the north throughout the world and should be your tails for mountains huts and offering back- face before breakfast are proof that this land embraces all forms of walking with a pas. Hut to Hut by Johnathan Hurdle. Alpine huts make it easy to tackle many 1:400. Further evidence is the mountain huts perched on every hillside. agent or bookshop. try Walking Austria’s Alps CARINTHIA 870. just in time to see dawn tint Walk Austria Guide. 12A North St. % 01-512 38 44. a pocket-sized guide further details. Despite day pack. maps to choose from. there is an arm of the club years old. Austrian red-white-red stripes on a handy tree trunk Tourist Club.naturfreunde. It produces the free and up-to-date maps that may be sufficient for short. but if you’re keen to get out and National Tourist Office. first port of call. Usually only local maps Österreichischer Alpenverein (ÖAV. in German. Information Sources erences at a 1:50.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • G e t t i n g S t a r t e d 83 GETTING STARTED Two other clubs worth contacting for Walking in Austria Because Austrians are such a well-organised bunch. www.at.alpenverein. A full list of contact details ground information on trails. luring hikers to its pointy are used for ski runs: blue for easy. while the trails according to their difficulty started in second has an excellent library (h4-7pm Thu). A great overview map of Austria is Michelin’s pastures are experiences that put hikers’ senses on high alert. crags of the Dachstein massif to gazing up at the Hohe Tauern National Park’s mantle of the popular places fill up in a flash. larger-scale maps for walking. some climbing may be Maps required).000 with mountaineering on fixed-rope routes in the Tennengebirge to scaling the limestone and August) it’s advisable to book ahead as country map. see p380 for publish Alpine Flowers. . ANTO. although book- Club. Austria serves up some of Europe’s The majority of books on the Alps are in Tyrol and is becoming more widespread.

(including emergency rations) and at least trips. Be sure to factor these in when planning especially at high altitudes. when advance bookings are recommended. barking on long hikes at high altitudes. fleece. Austrian Alpine Club. a human bacterial Most huts open from mid-June to mid-September when the trails are free of snow. as they burn and decom- next hut. long distances. however. junction with altitudes – significant elevation taking minimal packaging or unpacking (winter trails). gaiters. may also be worth packing a hat. Accommodation is in communal dorms called Matrazenlager.de. you name it – so the trick is to mals. ers down.at. including easily forgotten as Alpine huts only open from mid-June to display and/or provide mountain-weather eye look. huts. despite the highly evolved system means you’re hardly ever further than a five. German Alpine Club. in German). Spring offers fewer WHAT TO TAKE WALK DESCRIPTIONS digging disturbs soil and ground cover. with restaurant facilities. having an indica. where an electric fence wildlife. To minimise Dig a small. first. packaging weighs very little. your walk. by human faeces can lead to the trans- be purchased from the hut warden. comparing notes and clinking glasses. otherwise your waste will be exposed the Bergsteigeressen – literally ‘mountaineer’s meal’ – which is low in price but high in calories. www. orange peel.or four-bed purpose. Of course. website of the ÖAV (www. camping stove and other gear that weighs hik. choice for wandern (walking). sturdy walking boots „ Moving too close will unnerve wild ani- Austrians don’t let the dust gather under may look sunny but conditions can change at and waterproofs. to pass through without getting zapped. is quieter and cret to happy hiking. (ÖAV. Distances should be read in con. bury your waste. Huts in popular areas are more impact and help preserve Austria’s ecology. in German. With a belly full of dumplings Human Waste Disposal and schnapps. The tainsides and many of them are protected make summer (June to September) a top If there’s one rule of thumb in the Alps. espe- with contact details and opening times. It’s tough walking on provided only as a guide. Members of the ÖAV can order Servus (Hello) and observing a few etiquette soil. hikers should budget €8 to €10 for a „ On narrow paths. me.com lonelyplanet. 100m from any watercourse. local residents and are entitled to a discount of up to 50% on the cost of overnight accommodation at ÖAV and DAV alpine pastures. It’s important to stick to existing . Also consider taking a torch. with key words in English). forecasts. Deep powder? Snowshoes. are prone to ero- your sweetheart are long gone. in German). carried in. Buried rubbish lower altitudes. For high-altitude hikes. Rubbish if you’re planning multi-day hikes in the regional Alpine weather reports can be heard the rays are still powerful and sunscreen is „ The idea is to carry out what you have Alps. Times are based on will more than likely be dug up by ani- is a fantastic season to glimpse the mountains an empty stomach. cheese and cured meats are ideal. 15cm-deep hole at least Alpenverein (DAV. fog.84 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • W h e n t o W a l k lonelyplanet. summer is probably your only option. Take reusable containers or HUT-TO-HUT HIKING tion may help you choose between walks. tor. on %0990-911566 81. Taped while the air temperature may be subzero. of ruddy-cheeked walkers. significant elevation change pose poorly. summer activity of fattening up for the cessorise. while difficult indicates walks with inconvenience. distracting them from their vital their boots the rest of the year – they ac. The sun can long winter.apenverein. when the snow melts. who may be injured or poisoned wrapped in a cloak of gold and crimson. consider like mountain inns. „ Always leave farm gates as you find them. drying rooms and even hot showers (normally at consider the following tips when walking. lightning.at. enough carbohydrate-rich food for the day stops for snacks. „ Condoms. a comprehensive book on huts. items such as tinfoil. Empty The busiest months are July and August. Most huts have a Gaststube (living room). so if you plan to undertake a hut-to-hut tour in Austria it’s worth joining the UK section crosses a path. Tourist offices also essential to avoid the lobster-skin and panda. The dium denotes challenging terrain and longer should also be carried out.to six-hour walk from the distances. Cover the waste with soil and a rooms. tion in the Alps. the sprightly it’s to never take the weather for granted. and making tracks through bread. taking photos. It can cause severe health risks months are July and August. for emergencies. compass. Austria has more than 1000 huts. „ Minimise the waste you carry out by nonskiers with prepared Winterwanderwege High-energy foods such as nuts. particularly „ Where there is no toilet. while web forecasts also available on aid kit. allow two months for your application to be processed. Grading systems are their contents in one container before always arbitrary. snazzy pair of walking sticks. Slippery autumn leaves? A pack layers and check the forecast before em. carrying a lightweight trowel for this an extra charge).com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • W a l k D e s c r i p t i o n s 85 WHEN TO WALK squeaky snow with a crisp blue sky overhead Take lightweight layers that you can put wildflowers look lovelier on the moun- While the wildflowers and tinkling cowbells is quite something. so make sure you have the actual walking time and do not include mals. be extraordinarily deceptive in the mountains.alpenverein. The Greeting your fellow walkers with a cheery that too. species. which removes the need to lug a tent. www. on or take off to warm up or cool down. or in the Notlager (emergency shelter – wherever there’s space) if all beds have been taken. „ The days of plucking edelweiss to woo cially at high altitudes. too. ascending walkers have „ Contamination of the local water sources basic meal with a drink. the busiest In summer low-voltage electric fences are parasite. Alpine sion. Even winter walking isn’t out of the ques. Crampons. Consult p380 for further accommodation information. a convivial spot that hums with the chatter and high-altitude or glacier travel. dig down beneath the lunchtime and evening menu is usually hearty and good value. „ Mountain slopes and hillsides. when snowfields above 2000m melt and the „ Burying rubbish is not recommended as weather is mostly fine. It loose-fitting trousers. crowds and everything begins to bloom at A light pack full of little necessities is the se. though not necessarily a gastronomic treat! On average. Autumn. Members of the ÖAV set up to control livestock on the open to other walkers. mission of giardiasis. Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15) or Deutscher the fragile ecosystem of the Alps. tampons and sanitary pads refuges make great bases for exploring the wilderness without sacrificing creature comforts. Use toilet paper sparingly and bury Blankets and pillows are provided but you might need to bring your own sleeping sheet. it usually has a hook that (p83). Ice? rential rain. One of the joys of hiking in Austria is spending the night in a mountain hut. as Teewasser (boiled water) can right of way over those descending. mobile phone and a whistle arette butts and plastic wrappers. you retreat to your comfy bunk and hope you haven’t picked the one next to a RESPONSIBLE WALKING „ Make an effort to use toilets in huts and champion snorer! The popularity of walking puts great pressure refuges where provided. ther. It’s also sensible to carry tea or coffee. can make a greater difference to your walking small-portion packages and combining time than lateral distance. two. In snow. %0512-595 47. however. The times and distances in this chapter are and encourages erosion. These trailside refers to a short walk on gentle terrain. dried fruits. The ÖAV publishes the can be easily unfastened to allow walkers Erosion ÖAV Hut Book for Austria (in German. basics include a breathable T-shirt. over 500 of which belong to the Österreichischer Alpenverein on Austria’s natural environment. your trip.alpenverein. basics will stand you in good stead. many resorts now cater to 1L of water per person to avoid dehydration. gloves and walking sticks. Easy stuff sacks. cig- late September. it mals. the drop of a hat – hail. rests or side by it. It also takes years to decompose. Trail Etiquette rock.

horizon. which me- sliding on grass. The trail is shown by red- the trail and the turquoise Schlegeisspeicher below. one hour. to offer: babbling brooks. Continue around a shoulder and enter mud patch. the 280km Adlerweg (Eagle Trail) starts in St by a pause equalling the length of time taken gemstone dropped into a sea of ice white Johann near Kitzbühel (p350) and scales the Karwendel massif. with highlights Mountain rescue (%140) in the Alps is very ef. and This scenic loop begins by climbing above and waterfalls that streak the rugged moun- many sections have fixed wire ropes to assist with difficult steps. the mountains. park. are a taste of what’s on offer. Accessible from mid-June to late September. open from May to the end of October and Lapenkarbach (Lapenkar Stream).com lonelyplanet. which affords tremendous vistas of hanging glaciers.alpen can be followed in fog. %0512-595 47. For details on transport to/from The website of the Österreichischer Alpenverein (ÖAV. mattresses/beds including rugged peaks. most walking routes reservoir. rocky ridges and wild alpine ows. Although the route by tarns.to 1½-hour ascent from SAFETY & EMERGENCIES having at least one additional person in the The Schlegeisspeicher is 25km southwest of the Friesenbergalm to Friesenberghaus. the snaking path is well graded and topsoils in place.20. The turn-off for this trail information and maps. the mountains alone. Dominikus Hütte (% 05286-52 16. The Summary A high-level circuit that leaves a big impression. If you blaze a new trail falls can be a problem.at for ficient but extremely expensive. Alternatively. tions. both are crossed via route ascends to 3106m. If you’re lucky. and let them know when between Mayrhofen and the reservoir (one you might spot chamois here. take the well-worn trail signed to the be in good condition to attempt this challenging three. through the forest and past slopes that are „ Stubai Höhenweg – Austria’s showpiece hut-to-hut route.000 map No 37 bulk of the Hoher Riffler (3231m). of your plans. tracks and avoid short cuts that bypass In high-Alpine routes. pass- Most walker deaths are directly attributable party will mean someone can stay with an Mayrhofen and is accessed by the twisting ing through boulder-strewn meadows that to fatigue. the following trails The standard Alpine distress signal is six The circuit starts at the Schlegeisspeicher. The Walk Austria’s stunning landscape. seven daily). where possible don’t walk in walk in detail. until you are bad weather. Schlegeis Alpenstrasse toll road. six smoke puffs – that is. minimum number for safe walking. A fall resulting from Inform a responsible person. which rise like the bows of a ship „ Arnoweg – The 1200km Arnoweg rates among Austria’s best long-distance walks. ist. in German. walk through the mud. so a decent level of fitness is required. The hike TYROL & VORARLBERG and-white markings on the rocks. Kompass 1:25. Some mountaineering experience is required as snow patches are not uncommon and there are several passes to tackle. but many walkers follow only the southerly stretch of the Nearest Town Mayrhofen (p348) soon reaches two streams that flow swiftly walk. hut warden or hotel reception. above. high-pitched whistle of marmots interrupt posite) at its westernmost point. you approach a switchback.at. weather forecast before you go and remember involves 850m of ascent and descent. www. heat exhaustion. The clang of cowbells and the the Stubaital (p345). it will turn into a As long as you stick to the marked route. and Getting to/from the Walk It is a further one. take it with you.000 map No 83 Stubaier Alpen – Serleskamm. watch out for black ice. Increase the length and alti. Zillertaler Alpen – Tuxer Alpen covers the superlative views of the peaks crowning the „ Avoid removing the plant life that keeps That said. circuit around Salzburger Land that takes roughly two months to complete. high-altitude Berliner Höhenweg trail (op. Study the links two alpine huts. which are rimmed by tufts of silky scarring. pinnacles. Use Kompass 1:25. lakes. the cottongrass and reflect the towering pinnacles „ If a well-used track passes through a that weather patterns change dramatically in path is well graded and mostly gentle. ever. Every section of the seven. which impresses with its sheer scale and six of whatever sign you can make – followed colour – it seems like a glittering turquoise „ Adlerweg – Exploring Tyrol’s finest scenery. so make sure €19/25. With some care. acclimatised to the vast Alpine scale. verein. shifts to fields of dwarf pines. though you’re . scree or iced-over paths is ily member. The Friesenbergalm (2036m). before traversing the limestone by the calls before repeating the signal again. there are views of the Zillergrund.to four-week hike. waterfalls. the tree line near the wooden cabin at straight down a slope. whistles. the trail and finish point is Salzburg (p266). Pick up Kompass 1:50. you have insurance.com for more over the azure Schlegeisspeicher (Schlegeis Reservoir) to toes in the tingling water before continuing details. which is give way to patches of scree and the gurgling clothing or footwear. which leads through the glacial landscape of the Hohe Tauern National Park (p310). See www.86 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • S a fe t y & E m e r g e n c i e s lonelyplanet.arnoweg. the Stubaier Höhenweg starts at speckled with wildflowers such as delicate The Zillertal Alps reward walkers with alpine roses and purple gentian in summer. The walk LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS you leave marked trails in foggy condi. but you „ Berliner Höhenweg – This 42km trail begins in Ginzling (p350) and quickly gains altitude should stick to the right and head towards the (the highest point is 3133m). Buses run from Innsbruck to the turquoise Schlegeisspeicher to join the tain faces silver. Rother Wanderführer map with relatively easy hiking providing tremendous views wooden footbridges. There are bewitching views of the Zillertal Alps towering over Friesenberghaus. avalanches and rock mix of everything this mountainscape has After roughly 45 minutes. Neustift in Stubaital. a common hazard. over water-worn rocks. From the northeast end of the car crags of Wilder Kaiser and eventually landing in St Anton am Arlberg (p362). the scenery circuit. costs €10 for a car. Under no circumstances should way €5. Pause to dangle your Arnoweg Der Salzburger Rundwanderweg covers the trail. gin-clear streams and frosted peaks. Two is considered the largely constructed from rock slabs. Affording the size of the patch. The official start Difficulty Medium Weaving through pine trees. It’s a great quiet contemplation on these upper reaches. and it soon begins its gradual ascent through shady mixed takes three to four days to complete. If you peer back. but otherwise wait Mayrhofen. where most trails highlight is the precipitous balcony trail that here to traverse high meadows punctuated and eventually cause soil loss and deep are signposted and well mapped. starts and finishes at the car park beside the Austria’s extensive hut network is ideal for those keen to do some serious trekking in the Alps. hut comes just 100m along the path. it’s high meadows and pine woodlands. Duration Five to six hours mountains.adlerweg. See www. making a Distance 11km above the glacially cold reservoir. As the rocky trail snakes upwards. hmid-May–late Oct).tirol. You’ll need a good level of fitness to tread the well-marked 120km mesmerising views of flower-strewn mead.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Z i l l e r t a l C i r c u i t ( T y r o l ) 87 you return. Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15) has a dedicated section on the country’s 10 Weitwanderwege by the path until visibility is clear enough (long-distance trails). see p350. the Zillertal Alps.000 map No 37 Mayrhofen – Tuxer Tal ZILLERTAL CIRCUIT (TYROL) forest. You’ll need to If you have a mobile phone. The trail flattens out watercourse with the next heavy rainfall hard to get lost in Austria. buses run anders through the valley. 3000m pinnacles. how. Austrian Alpine Club. six calls. which stretch from 160km to 1200km and showcase different areas of to proceed. such as a fam. and inadequate injured walker while the other seeks help. moss-clad slabs.to nine-day route involves battling at least one pass. you should use care and judgement in a broad valley overshadowed by the immense walking around the edge will increase tude of your walks gradually. ice caves and hilltop castles.

five minutes’ to wind uphill in a series of long bends until Olperer and Zillertal Alps. Kaiser (Tame Emperor). After a little refreshment. The hut is currently being rebuilt and the perpendicular turrets of the Kaisergebirge leave Kufstein (p355).’ Friesenberg Friesenberg to negotiate. befriend them.’ Federbettkees along the path signposted to the Olperer Hütte By the age of 21. ous forest and flower-dotted Alpine pastures on a creaking 1970s chairlift. Duration Six to seven hours in Tirol. of tight switchbacks completes the climb to horses – a beautiful breed of mountain horse of its most spectacular. meadows full of wildflowers station of the Sesselbahn Wilder Kaiser in Zam you reach it. the valley floor.5 miles nickname it the Grauer (Grey) because of its Celebrated Austrian mountaineer and ski instructor Peter Habeler was born in Mayrhofen in 1942 steely colour – and its smaller sidekick.to four-day Berliner spends a lot of his time leading tours of the Zillertal Alps and speaks of his love for the Olperer (2388m) Dominikus Hütte Höhenweg route. but we knew that if Sherpas Tuxer Ferner Friesenberghaus (2498m) snow near the start. as there are fantastic vistas ba Today Habeler still stands out as a mountaineer: lean. hearly Jun-early Sep) is Difficulty Medium Getting to/from the Walk h (2467m) bac suddenly revealed. Sturdy footwear and when they turn shades of gold. the 2388m Olperer Hütte (%05285. It’s a fine spot for a side a stream to the road (1½ hours from the Kaisertal (Kaiser Valley). From here. amber and cool beer or a bowl of goulash before tackling Olperer Hütte). hour hike passes through beautiful decidu. Turn left and follow the road waterproofs are recommended. You may need to cross a few patches of essentials.’ Habeler enthuses. chb Schlegeisspeicher ach berghaus. The trail continues ling views of the glacier-capped peaks of the The soaring limestone spires of the Kai. As you approach the top station. are not enemies that need to be conquered. it’s about tech- (3288m) (3270m) contour across the mountainside ahead. ὄὄ 88 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Z i l l e r t a l C i r c u i t ( T y r o l ) lonelyplanet. nique. The Walk Situated under the glowering face of Hohe the way – pass in front of the hut and con. They eg To nw Mayrhofen 3000m-high glaciers of the Gefrorene-Wand. though another stream Nearest Town Kufstein (p354) The trailhead is Brentenjoch. Kleiner Grainer (2952m). the Ahornspitze (2976m). He Olperer Hütte START END trail is part of the three. turn left and begin to declining. Ski School Mount Everest (p349). the hut is home to several Haflinger highest peaks. that respect for the mountains is Gefrorene-Wand- Spitzen ends at a path junction. When he’s not at home in Mayrhofen. where he grew up and now runs a guiding company. then makes a steep but mercifully to race up the eight-thousanders of the Himalaya and pioneer the first ascent of Everest without Friesenbergscharte short ascent up the rocky slope on the other supplementary oxygen in 1978. Distance 18km Zamser Egg 626 71.000 map No 9 Kufstein-Walchsee-St Johann sch ram ma Around two hours from the Friesen. to Kaisertal (one way €0. which starts in Ginzling and (3476m) and his ‘little Everest’. the hut. divided by the fertile that are particularly spectacular in autumn for long-distance hikers. Climbers should adapt to the mountains. and 2 run every 20 minutes from Kufstein grazing on the pastures. descending gently as it traverses rock-studded slopes and providing Un ter uninterrupted views of the reservoir. It seems there is no keeping this man of the mountains still. They soon applied their remarkable Alpine skills Hoher Riffler Schwarzbrunnerkees (3231m) of the lake. the the rest of the walk.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • K a i s e r g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( T y r o l ) 89 the valley to magnificent peaks including the ZILLERTAL CIRCUIT Grosser Grainer (3201m) – Zillertal locals ROCKET MAN: PETER HABELER ὄὄ ὄ ὄ 0 1 km 0 0. Ri (1805m) epe makes a circuit around the head of the val. The route begins on a high with a giddy ride Riffler and above a lake that remains ice-bound tinue your steady descent to the reservoir. condition and the ability to predict. it’s downhill all perfect walking territory. There is freedom in the mountains but also restriction. but they are undoubtedly some For full details on getting to/from Kufstein. ‘Alpinism is not about having the latest equipment or proving a point. the and has been scrambling up the glaciated peaks of the Zillertal Alps since the tender age of six.com lonelyplanet. hmid-Jun–late Sep) is a popular base then steepens slightly and zigzags down be. mattresses/ crosses several ice-cold streams. Rising abruptly from see p355. (2764m) Schlegeis easy-going walking. This section makes for interesting and to climb Grossglockner.’ he says emphatically. You can pick russet. After reaching this point. though. Everest was only a couple of hundred metres higher. taking only the bare (2910m) side. these distinctive peaks make the valley.’ (3233m) Kleines Riepenkees The next 1½ hours are spent following a His secret? ‘Taking the time to acclimatise is vital. He began a partnership with Messner in the 1960s and together ὄὄ descending slightly to cross the outlet stream they pushed the boundaries of mountaineering. The lift glides over Club) Friesenberghaus (%0676-749 7550. chiselled and incredibly fit for his age. Habeler occasionally pops over to Nepal to guide an expedition or dashes across to Hohe Tauern n ba Schramer Kopf ch Bergrestaurant ley. This six. The high-Alpine Alps. The trail (Wild Emperor) and the gentler Zahmer slopes wooded with beech and larch trees beds €16/22. ‘Other climbers said it was suicide. for 1km to return to the damside parking area up a basic map at the Kufstein tourist office limestone pinnacles of the frost-polished take time out to appreciate the views across where you started. There is a car park at the from scratch and is scheduled to reopen to walkers awestruck on this high-altitude hike. or invest in the more detailed Kompass 1: Wilder Kaiser massif come into view. German Alpine it winds gently over grassy hummocks and and affords vistas of both the Wilder Kaiser the adrenaline flowing. which are generally easy could reach 8500m. the Austrian er Za m peaks of the Zillertal Alps. KAISERGEBIRGE CIRCUIT (TYROL) 25. which saves well into the summer months.to seven. Use your hands here for a short ‘Extreme Alpinism has always been my goal and I was lucky enough to have fantastic teachers – ὄὄ Petersköpfl Kees See (2679m) section of very easy scrambling. As well as resident sergebirge may not count among Austria’s walk from the bottom station of the chairlift. A series chickens. His one-time climbing partner Reinhold Messner said famously of Habeler: ‘He’s like a sky rocket – Retrace your steps for 50m and turn right really impressive once the fuse is lit. mattresses/beds €18/24. the stone-built The path begins with more lovely scenery as before traversing the dizzying Bettlersteig. Habeler was a qualified mountain guide and rapidly gaining a reputation and the Berliner Höhenweg. His ch Falsch seite n bac h ba ch of the azure Schlegeisspeicher and the spiky passion for climbing is deeply rooted in what he affectionately calls his playground. This begins by as a bold and talented climber. the Friesenberghaus slides into view. . ‘We climbed quickly and travelled light.’ nk Grosses 2819m Friesenbergalm ar Riepenkees (2036m) camera handy here. We spent a couple of months at Everest base wonderful balcony trail that leads under the camp before making the ascent. bottom of the lift (per day €2). walkers plenty of legwork and certainly gets Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV. You’ll definitely want to have your pe those of the environment.80). which is scenically perched above unique to this region. at the top ser crossing on wooden planks is necessary before Summary Deep ravines. there are ster. Knowing when to call it a day. He believes. or buses 1 more likely to bump into sheep and cows walkers in 2008. The ascent the best there is. It’s all about understanding your boundaries and he La (21km) Berliner Hö Spitzen.

hill past overhanging crags and trees forming cavelike dwellings that have been hewn out of stupendous 360-degree views of the rolling ous. This is chamois real prerequisites for attempting this stretch. most exhilarating stretch. and (2125m) (2260m) for lunch when the sun’s out. deep karst cave has a long and fascinating Continue your gradual ascent on a rocky Around 1½ hours from Brentenjoch is the history. make for an easy ascent and the vertiginous erally glad to reach Anton-Karg-Haus (%05372. Milchkaffee (milky coffee) with homemade Before descending to Imst. an easily missed sign low. From the cave. while a mug of reaches a grotto with a glittering blue pool. hideaway for the freedom fighters. caution should be exercised in bad weather. Further along the Bettlersteig. and beech forest. Hackenköpfe (2125m). you are rewarded with when the rock becomes slippery and danger. Rosengartenschlucht. The zigzagging descent is easy and and blueberry bushes that cling to crags. to the Pleistocene epoch. The circuit begins by scal- Talo teig Anton-Karg-Haus (829m) suitable experience and climbing equipment. the route continues down. provides new perspectives of Gamskogel and 1:25. This 40m. Keep an eye out for Summary This family-oriented walk has plenty of highs: Tischofer Höhle chamois and deer in the forest on your way from climbing a dramatic gorge to racing in a roller coaster END Kaiser bach down to Strasswalch youth hostel. the ROSENGARTENSCHLUCHT CIRCUIT (Germany) Kiefersfelden Bettlersteig heads on through beech and fir (TYROL) Zahmer Kaiser forest. A slight incline gives way to shady beech and for its baroque sculptures. ing the 200m-high Rosengartenschlucht (Rose s START tler Brentenjoch Brandkogel After another hour of traversing streams Garden Ravine). and the clang of cowbells in the glimpse of the river. This three-hour walk is one of Imst’s hidden Wi Kufstein lder Ka Gamskogel a trail heads right to Sonneck (2260m). At the summit. Tracing the meander. Duration Three hours This is about the closest you’ll get to the north Distance 5km face of Wilder Kaiser. The terrace is a pleasant spot providing fine views of the Lechtaler Alps. Soon you’ll catch your first Zahmer Kaiser to the north and jagged Wilder cables and metal rungs hammered into the over Kufstein.000 Imst–Gurgltal map from the tourist downhill through Alpine meadows that are The woodland trail begins its descent to the the surrounding precipices – from this side office (see p358) opposite the Johanneskirche filled with purple thistles and gentian in Bettlersteig via a path bordered by dwarf pines you can appreciate how steep they really are! in central Imst. Thierseer Ache rocky summits of Zahmer Kaiser. it’s easily negotiated via the arches. On the right-hand side territory and close encounters are quite com. mon. there are great views the sheer rock face. Take time out from your rock face that create a real-life high-altitude dairy farms below brings you gently back to a narrow ravine gouged out during the last hike to relax and enjoy the wonderful pano. damp environment here . The scenery to civilisation. Finally. gems and is ideal for families seeking to stretch fen ise (1449m) r lenging and rewarding ascent for those with their legs in summer. the cave was also used as a secret River) upstream to the entrance of the from the start of the trek. a the tourist office in central Imst.000 years frescoed Johanneskirche in Imst and shad- The trail steepens on the final climb up to narrow wind-buffeted ridge. photogenic 16th-century chapel that is prized there are signs to the Rosengartenschlucht. walkers are gen. the track leads as some sections can get slippery. The cool. summer. but sturdy footwear is recommended ing Kaiserbach (Kaiser River). just across from which initially winds through cool pine vein through the undulating Alm (Alpine on the right that detours to Antoniuskapelle. look out for a path neskirche (St John’s Church). rama of the Nördliche Kalkalpen (Northern steadily through the narrow Kaisertal and For more details on this walk. the route’s toughest and (cave bear) have been unearthed here.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • R o s e n g a r t e n s c h l u c h t C i r c u i t ( T y r o l ) 91 0 1 km the north is awesome: a ravine carpeted in a road and crosses a field to the car park at KAISERGEBIRGE CIRCUIT 0 0. Getting to/from the Walk dusted with snow ahead. A glance left reveals the meadow) studded with heather and bracken. which gushes through Kaiser to the south. which traverses a are believed to date back around 26. the path veers left along ice age. From the top of the chairlift at Brentenjoch. gentle. and crosses the clear Talofen stream. As you descend. To There is little change in elevation on the trail. and brings the Wilder Kaiser An hour further on. When Tyrol went to ows the crystal-clear Schinderbach (Schinder Gamskogel (1449m). game of snakes and ladders. mattresses/beds €17/22. a chal.com lonelyplanet. From here. which The circuit begins on the path behind the form a natural staircase through the forest. hMay–mid-Oct) for a trail then weaves through shady pine forest. of the trail. Otherwise. Bear left onto the valley floor. bones and fossils of Ursus spelaeus The Walk path. where boarded walkways Bet (1411m) Strasswalch-JH (1117m) and negotiating switchbacks. Kufstein Se sse enormous fir tree provides respite from the (Austria) lba hn Kaisertal midday heat. Around an hour The walk starts and finishes at the Johan- the well-made path signed for Gamskogel. While sure. with its solid wall of Difficulty Easy Antoniuskapelle limestone thrusting skywards and turrets Nearest Town Imst (p358) 175 A12 crowding the horizon. The track now runs like a from Anton-Karg-Haus.5 miles luxurious shades of green and the imposing the chairlift. its chiselled north face and rock points the way to the Tischofer Höhle. The walking is to Kufstein from here. clambering over knobbly roots that infamous Bettlersteig. you reach a glade maple forest. take note of the unusual Berghäusl. lake and to pick up speed on one of the world’s It’s a gentle and scenic 2½ hour descent longest Alpine roller coasters. For details on public transport services where you can spy Scheffauer (2111m) and ever nearer. where an to plunging into an Alpine lake. pick up the take the narrow trail that veers left and leads Limestone Alps). views of a cascading river are memorable. drifts into view. and the trail is well marked and easy to fol- After roughly 25 minutes. there are fine views of limestone columns the left is a sheer cliff that drops abruptly to which passes through beech forest and a tun. see p358. approximately 50 minutes footedness and a head for heights are the only war in 1809. Kaindl-Hütte (1293m) Hackenköpfe Sonneck well-earned rest. Kaisertal and pointy Naunspitze (1633m). formations now appear incredibly close. to the right the Kaindl-Hütte nel hewn out of the rock face. The 625 78. Kiefersfelden Naunspitze (1633m) With the arduous bit behind you.90 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • K a i s e r g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( T y r o l ) lonelyplanet. operating to/from Imst. there is a chance Scheffauer (2111m) Wilder Kaiser shortbread is bound to boost hikers’ spirits to cool off in the pure waters of a tree-fringed when the weather is drab.

and the ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ fer K (2797m) ltal t ing Lechtaler Alps. of houses and runs parallel to the Fit 2000 (46km) (2545m) tta As you pass the fast-flowing river and char.70/7.5 miles To Schruns Schattenkopf To Landeck bench at Schöne Aussicht there are jaw-dropping neck apartments that skirts around the edge (34km): (2654m) Bielerspitze (48km) Bludenz views of the ravine above and below. ferns and is popular with joggers and nordic walkers). From this low-level perspec. From the From here. track (a fitness trail through the forest that vre sse ac h Gasthof Sil stra tb en un coal grey cliffs speckled with moss. the broad Gurgltal and the snow-capped bsp (2835m) A e l Lo Holzbrücke bridge after around 45 minutes. Schattenspitzgletscher you’ll hear the cuckoos and woodpeckers that This path leads to the Kreuzweg. there are views voir straddles the border of Vorarlberg and is gradual and easy. one of Tyrol’s Bie a Klostertaler Egghorn of Muttekopf (2774m) and the wooded slopes oldest churches. t a (2799m) an excellent vantage point above the gorge and Aside from occasional slippery roots and l e Ro ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ Radkopf rapids.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g ) 93 supports a tremendous array of flora and passes a stream flanked by a pebbly beach. rocks. take the path next to the Son- RADSATTEL CIRCUIT 0 0. The approach route The circuit starts at the Silvretta Stausee. approximately 1½ is relatively straightforward and there are Getting to/from the Walk tive. Light fords sweeping views across the rooftops of (2760m) en itz B i lternativ begins to flood the scene as you emerge at the Imst. contouring around the cliffs and as. Bielerhöhe taken on some sections where rocks are loose thrilling ride down the mountains. 25. old pilgrim route that eventually brings you Klo ste Schattenspitze (3202m) Wiesbadener Gle raler A steady and gentle climb leads up through back to the Johanneskirche. tsch Hütte Tiroler Kopf ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ er Schneeglockengletscher (3095m) Spring of the forest and affords snapshot views of the (3223m) Ill River verdant meadows and snowy summits ahead. cul- os r Ill s h Kl e Ri e Schinderbach. (p378). but Alpenvereinskarte 1: wallcreeper bird and the wayfaring tree. linked by a pass. RADSATTEL CIRCUIT (VORARLBERG) Rotfluh Ochsenkopf (3057m) Around an hour from the start of the walk. which has a wood-shingle Edmund-Lorenz-Weg l (3120m) of Hahntennjoch (1884m). and a torrent of water cascades into 22. ITALY . the scale of the cataract is impressive – hours from the start of the walk. Arriving in Hoch-Imst. the chasm to catapult 3. The climb Sep. valleys near the turquoise Silvretta Stausee Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse – Piz Buin both trees are rarer species such as the red-winged freshing dip in the Badesee. of the Hochalpenstrasse. and it’s almost possible into view. Madlenerhaus END ὄὄ rumbling water. it’s not exactly a walk in the park. so have your camera handy. Hoch-Imst 19. Piz Buin (3312m). the Wetterkreuz comes Bi Stau etta elt see alb still to barely a slit. adjacent to the cables are occasionally provided to ensure a point. including the jagged peak whitewashed Laurentiuskirche. Rauher Kopf (3101m) inhabit these woodlands. but it top of the gorge.50). of the 17th-century plague epidemic. the sandy track cuts a path ture vultures should also take a peek at the t ve Kleine r Radsattel s Schatten Spitze through fragrant pine forest and low scrub. With a bit of luck. lake ringed by fir trees. is the first in a series of many that zigzag to the lazy summer afternoon. ash. a centuries.000 map No 41 Silvretta Verwall. roof and relics dating from the 5th century. 10am-5pm Thu-Sun Oct) is billed as the world’s Silvretta range. a chapel commemorating victims (2652m) o (2703m) l ner n Bieltalkopf providing panoramic vistas of the surround. alder and larch Pause on the narrow forest trail to take a re. where they board self-controlled bobs enced walkers the option of scrambling to Silvretta Stausee. After roughly 20 minutes. of path routed alongside tumbling alpine is the name given to the pass at the top underfoot and wooden planks are slippery. home to the tiny ch Radsee ba Hohes Rad O l er ahead on the well-prepared trail signed to but beautiful Lourdeskapelle (Lourdes (2934m) a tal c ter t Hoch-Imst. negotiating tricky the rocky summit of Hohes Rad (2934m). it’s mountains that rise beyond. If ever there was an Kompass 1:50. Still following the course of the Chapel).5km downhill. a cave pool Distance 15km Vermuntgletscher Dreiländer Ochsentaler Spitze that turns a striking shade of blue when the Difficulty Medium Gletscher (3197m) sun hits it. climbing over the Radsattel at cover the route. the trail twists through two tunnels The trail soon begins its gradual and steady Bielerhöhe ein Kl hollowed out of the rock face that act as reso. where START nating chambers for the vibrations from the blueberries ripen on the bushes in summer.000 map No 26 Silvrettagruppe is more The wooden footbridge traversing the river beautiful spot to while away the hours on a The 700m of ascent and descent means that detailed. though care should be longest Alpine roller coaster and offers a of shimmering glaciers and long sections Tyrol at an altitude of 2034m. Highlights include fabulous glacier (3312m) (3136m) the path veers right towards Hoch-Imst and scenery and rushing meltwater streams. An alternative finish offers experi. the forest trail is easy walking and (2751m) ute After leaving the gorge. continue straight winds down to Am Bergl. h10am-5pm May. vertical dolomite and limestone cliffs tower begins for kids. Higher up. Shortly after. Frequent buses run be- good grip. The fissure narrows further About halfway down.80. as well as maple. adult/child €9. the reser- pools that glint turquoise in the sun.com lonelyplanet.92 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g ) lonelyplanet. an aquamarine reservoir. dola shuttles passengers uphill to the starting streams. the real fun great scenic rewards.000 map No 373 fauna. this cross atop a craggy hillock af- Silvr ach to reach out and touch the other side. tween Partenen and Bielerhöhe in summer narrows and the walk becomes more dramatic – bumps and hairpin bends. Duration Five to six hours (3166m) Silvrettahorn (3244m) you’ll emerge at the Blaue Grotte. Silvrettahaus Piz Buin h alp m Hoc ver lichen. surely faces. A gon. descent through fir and pine forest. This scenic route makes a circuit of two of the gruppe and F&B 1:50. this must be it! 0 1 km cending steps carved into the rock. The history of the grotto dates back Nearest Town Bielerhöhe (p378) Silvretta Egghorn (3147m) 2000 years to when Romans searched these Summary A scenic mountain circuit exploring two valleys Silvretta Gletscher Signalhorn (3210m) Piz Buin Piz Jeramias cliffs for semiprecious metals. it’s a peaceful and 2652m to cross from one valley to the other. you’ll be ducking under overhanging rock incentive to get the little ’uns to walk. the highest peak in the penstrasse toll road (car €11. The Alpine Coaster (%05412-663 brings you face-to-face with the mighty Situated at the top of the Silvretta Hochal- above. Pestkapelle. On the way back down to Imst.

are likely to need your hands for balance as behind the hut and cross a small stream. this alpine hut is a great place patches of snow may need to be crossed) The porous limestone rock of the Dach. one way/return end of the lake. and up you started (1½ to two hours from the The itinerary given here is for a two-day terrace of the large Hofpürglhütte (%06453-83 ahead the Vermuntgletscher and the heavily Radsattel). which cuts a path through the Ochsental the smaller path and lack of hut makes it feel Gosaukamm is the name given to the most The Walk Valley at the southeastern corner of the res. keep to like lake fringed by greenery. hJun-early Oct). at least four magnificent glaciers right along the lake. the After climbing for about an hour you reach a come into view as you gain height: to the road turn left and follow the pavement for scenery alternates between pine forest and junction at the top. six daily shore. Return The Filzmooser Wanderbus runs regular your attention on the task at hand. Shortly after the second bridge you linger beside the bubbling Bieltalbach on compact group of serrated limestone peaks Five to six hours. Turn right here and start the valley floor. where an extraction unit takes the there is one section of magnificent lime. Here you’ll catch your first glimpse of the ing a couple of small snowfields near the top.70. and much of the climbing comes on 04. valley is less dramatic than the previous one. The climb is steady through. 10km. valley. and it’s certainly tempting to westerly massif in the Dachstein range. for more detail. negotiating the most underfoot. which you There are great chances of spotting ibex up Duration Two days north. first crossing a bridge over lakes and then the Radsee. While this 200m pass and high forest trails. The path to the left scrambles up the water at each hut to last you until you ar. Perched crevassed Ochsentaler Gletscher suspended the first day of the walk. the highest point of the circuit. Gablonzer Hütte.40. possibly cross. in the upper reaches. milky green lake framed by brooding peaks. veering right the east bank of the Ill towards the arrow.30/10. where a sign SALZBURGER LAND & Friday) from the end of May to the end of October. high on a grassy hillock. frame the horizon. into a vehicle track. The path straight ahead drops are few and far between. Regular bus services are provided marks the Vorarlberg-Tyrol border (one to over the dam and join the well-worn path that skirts around the reservoir’s western 1½ hours from the hut). the Photographers will want to capture the dis- of the surrounding snow-dusted mountains down to Bielerhöhe and joins the described huts provide the only reliable sources of tinctive profile of the Grosse Bischofsmütze and glaciers. this is the highest peak in the a concrete shelter indicate the Radsattel to rock to the cross that marks the summit of rive at the next one. and continue straight ahead at the junction cent chapel around two to 2½ hours from the left (north) at the Radsattel instead of drop. strewn eastern side of the pass. mattresses/ 980m descent The ascent to the pass involves a series of To continue the route retrace your steps beds €15/20. fol- start. right on the opposite bank and climb a rise Buin and the pointed peak of Silvrettahorn Getting to/from the Walk and a moderate amount of exposure keeps topped by a large cairn. however. Hohes Rad. Follow The path to the hut is wide and follows the stream all the way to the mouth of the and spires tower above sheets of scree and signs for the Hofpürglhütte. The path can now be (3244m) loom large on the horizon. The advan- that stiletto-heeled shoes are not appropri. though the out and the scenery offers plenty of dis. wall ahead. Monday to Friday. turn ledges and gullies with moderate exposure. the pass can be seen zigzagging up the rock the Ill rises. h8. boulder.000 map No 14 Dachsteingebirge. GOSAUKAMM CIRCUIT where there are connections to Salzburg. traction. The path contours fit walkers should be able to negotiate the lowing signs to the Steiglpass. with a little care. On this route. will be walking around later. Following the Edmund-Lorenz-Weg.5km. 280m ascent. a 550m in height and arrive directly at the the shoreline as you follow the route. a DAY 1: HOFALM TO GABLONZER HÜTTE ervoir. though you must descend across to unwind on the sunny terrace. banks of the Silvretta Stausee and turn circuit undulates around the tree line. 15 minutes. refuel with before climbing over a spur and reaching a stein range means that natural water sources a shallow cirque before you start the climb. but the route is Ramsau covers the route. Soon down to the Bieltal (Biel Valley).000 map No Gosaukamm range. more remote. Once back at the main the path circumnavigates the massif. reach a junction. use the Alpenvereinskarte challenging terrain of the entire circuit. hmid-Jun–early Oct) and its small adja. As gradient eases somewhat towards the end. signs attached to Stausee. you’ll traverse the glacially cold Ill River. Cross the outlet of to complete the circuit. . route shortly before it reaches the Silvretta water.94 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • R a d s a t t e l C i r c u i t ( V o r a r l b e r g ) lonelyplanet. on your way limestone massive. Make sure to fill up with enough (2458m) on the left-hand side. Difficulty Medium tage of starting here is that you can use the ate footwear! The path rounds the southern curving horns. Hands will definitely be needed 281 Dachstein – Ausseer Land – Filzmoos – loose stones but crosses the crags themselves the path is now much narrower and rougher for balance over this section. (SALZBURGER LAND) This route can also be accessed from the cone-shaped Hohes Rad (2934m). The ascent begins over the left. turn left and continue for west Schattenspitzgletscher (3202m) and about 300m to return to the car park where stark. You will pass several small Nearest Town Filzmoos (p286) Gosaukammbahn (%06134-84 00. Follow the path along the west bank of Italian Dolomites to the south: pinnacles that leads north past two restaurants. Alternatively. flanked by meadows where containing seven summits over 2000m 880m descent up the trail signed to the Wiesenbadener cows graze. The most chal. and is marked by red-and-white marked with red paint splashes throughout. an eye out for their distinctive backward. take the path Hütte. five daily Sunday to required. so keep Distance 22km 7km south of Gosau village. The lower slopes of the up to the left of a white limestone gully. the Wiesbadener Hütte (%05558-42 33.15am-4. The of the valley. 6. Nestled at the foot of Piz Buin and just ping down into the Bieltal. Continue west to the massif have vegetation. SALZKAMMERGUT by Postbus between Filzmoos and Eben (adult/child €2. Summary A satisfying circuit that circumnavigates a €7. ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: VIA HOHES RAD lenging terrain comes around the Steiglpass tremendous views of the jagged turrets that The gradual ascent continues and reaches 2½ to three hours. It features towering rock pinnacles.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • G o s a u k a m m C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d ) 95 The Walk a shallow pool before making the final steep From the Silvretta Stausee car park. 200m if you want to take a break on the scenic Schneeglockengletscher (3223m).70/1. Fortunately seen rising and dipping across the undulating to the junction and turn left to the Bielerhöhe shuttles between Filzmoos and Hofalm cables are in place for security where terrain up to saddle itself. For a more challenging end to the route. 1120m ascent. three daily Saturday). a sparkling jewel.50pm mid-May–Oct) to gain the fast-flowing Klostertaler Bach. The path to a stone’s throw away from the spring where around the eastern slopes of Hohes Rad (some section. walk. walk climb to the narrow Radsattel. shaped like a At the back of the hut.50. high. bishop’s mitre. and this path is steep for most of the way. starting and finishing at the Gosausee. after the second restaurant to begin climbing shaped peak of Piz Buin (3312m) at the head water from the river and the path widens stone pavement. You paint splashes. pausing to admire the views of the Drop steeply down the rocky. Zigzag steeply up the slope The breathtaking 360-degree views from the 1:25. (2016m). F&B 1:50. Cables are in place for security and most where you joined the path to the hut. 20 minutes. (€3. A sign warns here (some of them are quite tame). Keep top make the extra effort worthwhile: Piz you cross rock ledges and mount stony steps. a bite to eat and enjoy the panoramic vistas signed junction. rocky terrain. The scenery is reminiscent of the From the Hofalm car park. the hut commands above the valley and glistening ice blue. mattresses/beds €16/22.

96 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • G o s a u k a m m C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d ) W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Te n n e n g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d ) 97 0 1 km a steady descent. Around one hour limestone pinnacles begin to dominate the tempted from July to early September. The path eventually weaves out onto a footpath signed to the Hofpürglhütte. the 18-year-old first female ascendant of the through this dramatic ravine is eased by a No 15 Tennengebirge Hochkönig. you chose this option. (2032m) through the vegetation and re-emerges at the Hofpürglhütte Hofalm open pasture around the Stuhlalm. which is the highest peak in the for the final few kilometres to the village. mattresses/beds utes). 1 61 of beech trees. Nearest Town Werfen (p285) Trail Bischofsmütze (2458m) Sammetkogel (2058m) veer right. uphill to the trailhead. TENNENGEBIRGE CIRCUIT St uh (2325m) Grosswand (2415m) Däumling (2322m) Hint Gosausee 600m descent (SALZBURGER LAND) Jöchl Begin by climbing the hillock directly op. you may prefer to take the Steinriesen Kogel Au (2008m) Holzmeisteralm from the memorial chapel. Walkers should have a good Around one hour from the Hofpürglhütte. and continues to descend gently A descent brings you into a cirque bordered this trek alone is not recommended. The memorial the most exciting part of the day’s route: a should pack enough food and water for the Gabelkogel (1909m) and the formidable glaci. zigzagging climb between the sheer day. Vo lN rd ai Go the climb. Highlights include enthralling climbs. initial climb and steep descent. but the obstacles serve the right and the switchbacks steepen into across a series of meadows. Contour across to the hut. turn left and pass a cluster is a karst plateau that is wild. in of the cirque and you will be presented with shelters. however. there is very little up here. and Summary A high-altitude trail around a vast limestone Sulzkaralm begin to descend gently through shady fir. Däumling (2322m). but you’ll need a ated peaks of the Dachstein massif are all vis. and an main ridge of the Gosaukamm massif. If you plan to return to Filzmoos by (2054m) €18/24. Alpine roses and gentian bloom on this left onto a much fainter trail (a sure sign high grassland in early summer. Join a gravel track at the top of To return to the Hofalm. Hofpürglhütte comes into sight on a ridge Gablonzer Hütte Gosaukammbahn This well-trodden path begins by climbing ahead.50) to escarpments. of the rock. It’s little wonder that for many walkers. even in summer. Stuhlloch. (1536m) along the track for a further 500m to reach the snow-filled cirques and sheer cliffs is a one-off ndl e ing Ma arm Hacklplatten (1546m) picturesque Theodor-Körner-Hütte (%0664-916 experience. where jagged Snowfields mean that this hike is best at- up amongst the pinnacles and spires on the a riot of colour in autumn. following the Difficulty Medium to difficult (Cirq 611 Steiglpass Mitterkogel signs to Austriaweg and Theodor-Körner. plateau. a clearing to the left of the path. and in particular rock walls of a narrow gully.5 miles junction signed to the Gablonzer Hütte. field. The sunny ter. nearby Däumling pinnacle. this day hike offers challenging (5km) two hours from the start. so you Grosse Bischofsmütze. Duration Eight to nine hours lloch (1601m) posite the entrance to the hut. and possibly the pass is the highlight of the circuit. 12km. walking involving almost 1000m of ascent and From the Theodor-Körner-Hütte. triangular. add one to two hours k (2279m) to the day’s duration. gully. as entertaining distractions rather than real along the access track for 100m and veer right head for heights and be sure-footed for the you arrive at the Steiglpass (2018m). the Gedenkkapelle. path that leaves from the front terrace of the G stri race of the hut has a great view southeast to Hofpürglhütte and descend gently through aw Strichkogel o eg (2035m) s Gosaulacke the ice-capped summit of Hoher Dachstein woodland before joining the Hofalm road Gosaulacke Angerstein (2100m) a (2995m). The deep green waters ing the Theodor-Körner-Hütte. and there’s To Gosau h that most walkers descend to the Gosausee a chance you’ll glimpse chamois and mar- (6km) bac here) and traverse the slopes to join the main mots. commemorates all those who have perished in steep. and from the pass you reach a small. undertaking may have to traverse the occasional snow. Trekking through Lienköpfl and accommodation are available. Continue this surreal landscape of rounded heights. around 1½ to two hours foot. Paths are waymarked. The trail continues to cross the pass and be. of cable. Wasserkar Kogel a Gabelkogel Stuhlalm (2221m) m (1909m) DAY 2: GABLONZER HÜTTE TO HOFALM Theodor-Körner- hütte Sternkogel m 4½ to 5½ hours. You descend several rock steps of the Gosausee soon come into view to The path now makes an undulating traverse Achsenkogel and walk roughly 15 minutes and one small gully. Take the cable car (one way €4. retrace your o. If you’re keen to get off the well- W To Filzmoos 6303. Turn tions. You are now right through pine and larch woodlands. steep Leckkogel pine and larch forest. if Mandlkogel u Dachstein range. Contour around the base early start is essential. A final shoulder is rounded and the u sa Go Gosausee–Gablonzer path. passing over sev. pass through a metal turnstile. mattresses/beds €10/14. 360m ascent. Steiglkogel (2122m) Losegg (1647m) Grosse (2204m) Hütte (trail No 611). who died during long flight of steps and occasional sections a compass. where you challenges. the Tennengebirge START join a broad track. Aside from emergency the views are impressive in both directions: roofed memorial chapel. such as Kompass 1: 50. where refreshments. isolated and END of wooden huts. Your passage proper map. the mountains of the area. food beautiful in its austerity. hJun–mid-Oct). At the top of the hill. Getting to/from the Walk lunar landscape of limestone pavement and passing several cabins. which are by dwarf pines. return some scrambling. turn left and continue for 200m to original ascent route from day one (45 min- Tr Kleiner Donnerkogel sau (1916m) see Grosser Donnelkogel the Gablonzer Hütte (%06136-84 65. Keep an eye open for the eral spurs and keeping left at four trail junc- GOSAUKAMM CIRCUIT 0 0. is reached around 40 minutes after leav. 1½ to trodden track. The path picks a way descents and memorable views of the Hochkönig massif. The Jöchl (1601m). Here you Slung high above Werfen. The trek starts on the .000 map ible. skyline once more. at the top of the gins to descend gradually though a wonderful Continue to weave through the wood. the descent. Distance 15km ue) (2018m) No. arriving 1¼ steeply but eases as it passes through a grove to 1¾ hours after leaving the Jöchl. hJun–mid-Oct).

98 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Te n n e n g e b i r g e C i r c u i t ( S a l z b u r g e r L a n d ) W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t ) 99

right-hand side of the path winding up to cluding Hühnerkrall (2289m). Sporadic cables shadows across the contours of this rugged horizon bolster waning spirits and there are
Eisriesenwelt. For further details on getting ensure safety, but sure-footedness and a sturdy and starkly beautiful landscape, the effect good chances of sighting the nimble-footed
there and away, see p285. grip are needed as you clamber up and over is otherworldly. chamois that inhabit these upper reaches. It’s
the rocks. This exposed section of the trek is The trail climbs further and, glancing back, quite a relief to catch sight of the first dwarf
The Walk undoubtedly exciting, but it can be torturous the jagged pinnacles of the Hochkönig range pines speckling the slopes, as these signal your
Heading up on the path between the cable- under a blazing sun, so it’s advisable to tackle are visible. Roughly three hours into the gradual approach to the tree line.
car top station and Eisriesenwelt, take the it early. The zigzagging ascent quickly gains hike, keep an eye out for the sign to Vord- The relief at reaching the tree line is
narrow trail on the right, signed Steig (trail elevation and involves some easy scrambling. Streitmandl (trail No 229). This track con- overwhelming – finally earth that does not slip
No 212), towards Leopold-Happisch-Haus, The icing on the cake, however, is climbing tinues to scale the ridges of the plateau, but is or slide! The narrow trail now weaves through
indicated by a red-and-white stripe on the two (slightly wobbly!) ladders that scale the now waymarked with a red dot in a white circle pine forest and becomes much flatter and
rocks. The hardest climbing of the day’s trek vertical rocks and get the adrenaline pumping. (similar to the Japanese flag). It can be tricky easier, though the gnarled roots and leaning
starts here with loose rocks underfoot, a steep The trail crosses piles of scree and passes a to stay on the path if there are snowfields, trees can be a bit of an obstacle course. After
incline, and a breathtakingly sheer 1000m memorial on the left-hand side, which com- as the markings are sometimes obscured, so a steady hour-long march, the Alpengasthof
drop to your right. While the going isn’t easy, memorates two mountaineers who lost their particular care is needed when traversing the Mahdegg sails into view. Keep your eyes peeled
the awesome views more than compensate: lives here in 1994. bowl-shaped depressions and cirques. Though for the small sign indicating the trail (trail
below, the Salzach River snakes through pas- Around two hours from the trailhead, challenging, the walking here is extremely No 43) that will take you back to the start-
tures that form a rich patchwork of greenery, there’s a sense of achievement upon reach- satisfying and the far-reaching views reveal ing point, which winds through shady beech
while ahead the towering limestone cliffs are ing the magnificent karst plateau, a vast, grey the Alps tumbling down to the flats, including and fir forest, and provides snapshot views of
scored with crevices and riddled with caves. desert of undulating limestone where snow- the twin peaks of Hühnerkrallkopf (2403m) Werfen. Eventually the path brings you out
The sign Steinschlag Möglich reminds hikers fields often linger till summer. The Jagdhütte and Hochpfeiler (2410m) to your left. onto the road to Eisriesenwelt; turn right,
to keep their distance from the cliffs because emergency shelter lies to the left, but you The trail soon emerges in front of the and the car park is about 10 minutes’ stroll.
of falling rocks. should sidle right and follow the signs for dramatic Lehnender Stein (2400m) precipice, The alternative is to take the zigzagging route
The precipitous track contours around Leopold-Happisch-Haus. Bordered by dwarf which provides heart-stopping views of the (trail No 33) from Alpengasthof Mahdegg
the cliff face, passing slopes covered in dwarf pines and tussock grass, the path traverses valley below. These cliffs are home to nesting down to central Werfen, which takes just
pines, and affording head-spinning views of the plateau and leads gently up natural eagles and, while you may spot one if you’re under an hour.
the valley below and the summits above, in- steps hewn into the rock. When clouds cast lucky, you’re far more likely to hear their
high-pitched screech. Another pleasant half- OBERTRAUN TO HALLSTATT
TENNENGEBIRGE CIRCUIT 0
0
800 m
0.4 miles
hour is spent wandering past steely turrets (SALZKAMMERGUT)
before weaving up a rocky path to the exposed Duration Six to seven hours
and wind-buffeted peak of Raucheck (2430m), Distance 18km
the highest mountain in the Tennengebirge Difficulty Easy to medium
range. The amazing views from the summit, Nearest Town Obertraun (p252)/Hallstatt (p250)
TENNENGEBIRGE marked by a silver cross, make all the puff- Summary A picturesque and spectacular walk around
ing and panting worthwhile: the 360-degree the shores of the pristine Hallstätter See (Lake Hallstatt)
panorama of the Northern Limestone Alps is against a backdrop of towering mountains, with
Leopold-Happisch-
difficult to drag yourself away from. opportunities for swimming.
Sign to
Haus Around six hours from the start of the
Vord-
Streitmandl
hike, it’s all downhill on the trail veering right The Hallstätter See is a magnificently pristine
Jagdhütte
(2202m) signed to Grieskar-Mahdegg. While the pros- lake in the Salzkammergut region, surrounded
pect of skipping down the hillside may seem by soaring peaks and providing excellent op-
Tra

(2092m)
lNi

Memorial
like a breeze after all that climbing, the tough portunities for summer swimming. Few trails
o2

Eisriesenwelt
212

29

(1646m)
Trail N
o
Hühnerkrallkopf
(2403m) descent is designed to test tired legs and is in Austria match this circuit for lakeside
START
Achsenkogel Hühnerkrall Hochpfeiler
Hinteres easily underestimated. The track zigzags down beauty. The walk initially follows the shore
Salzac

(2223m)
Cablecar to
(2289m) (2410m)
Streitmandl a deep ravine, where care is needed climb- of the lake along the easy and mostly level
Eisriesenwelt Lehnender
ing over weatherworn limestone dotted with Ostuferwanderweg (Eastern Shore Hiking
h R

Stein Mittleres
(1076-1582m) (2360m) Edelweisserhütte
(2400m)
ve i

Vorderes fissures and sinkholes. Look back to admire Trail) from Obertraun, joins the historic
r

Tenneck
Sign to Grieskar-
END Raucheck
(2430m)
Mahdegg the spectacular trio of horned peaks: Grosses Soleweg (Brine Pipeline Trail) at the north-
Grosses-Fieberhorn Fieberhorn (2276m), Kleines Fieberhorn ern end of the lake, then continues along this
(2276m)
Kleines- Hochthron
(2152m) and Hochthron (2362m). winding and spectacular trail past a waterfall
Tr
Fieberhorn
(2152m)
(2362m) The trail descends relentlessly for roughly to Rudolfsturm, a scenic lookout-restaurant
E55 ail
No another hour, traversing rocks and a lad- above Hallstatt. The section along the eastern
43
Festung
Itohenwerfen der before culminating in a series of tight shore can be done any time of year and in any
Buses to Trail No 33
Eisriesenwelt switchbacks down extremely steep slopes of conditions, while the Soleweg requires a good
Cable Car
Werfen Alpengasthof scree and boulders. The fabulous vistas of level of fitness, good shoes and a reasonable
Mahdegg
Alternative Finish Point the Hochkönig massif’s pinnacles crowding the head for heights. Children will need careful

100 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t ) W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • O b e r t r a u n t o H a l l s t a t t ( S a l z k a m m e r g u t ) 101

supervision in this section. The Soleweg sec- along a walkway attached to the rock face
tion should be attempted in winter only in good above the water. This is the deepest section IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF PILGRIMS
conditions and with appropriate clothing. of the Hallstätter See (125m). This part of the A historic path, the Pilgrim’s Way (Pilgerweg), connects St Gilgen and St Wolfgang via the western
walk affords some splendid views up the lake shore of the Hallstätter Sea (Lake Hallstatt). In the past pilgrims followed this path to honour
Getting to/from the Walk between the wonderfully carved rock faces St Wolfgang, the bishop who was said to have founded the church in St Wolfgang village by
This walk begins in Obertraun and heads flanking the valley, petering out at the north- throwing his axe from the Falkenstein hill into the valley below and building the church on the
anticlockwise around the lake. It is also pos- ern tip of the lake at the settlement of Steeg spot where it fell.
sible to start at Rudolfsturm in Hallstatt. From and the mouth of the Traun River. The walk takes half a day and maps are available from the tourist offices in St Wolfgang and
Obertraun train station, follow the line north- From the walkway, the trail continues along St Gilgen. The path starts from Furberg, near St Gilgen, and climbs the Falkenstein (795m) before
west along Bahnhofstrasse for 200m, cross the a gravel path among riverbank acacias, pines, continuing through the village of Reid to St Wolfgang. Apart from the fairly steep climb to the
line and veer right. The trail begins just after larch, fir and beech. This is also a botanical top of the Falkenstein, the walk isn’t too strenuous (remind yourself that many pilgrims did it
the ferry terminal, 10 minutes’ walk from the theme path, so the vegetation is often marked with lentils in their shoes or naked with iron rings around their necks as a sign of penance!).
tourist office. along the way. Keep left at the fork in the trail There are various things to see along the way, including a stone that still apparently bears the
(and at all forks on this section). From here marks of the St Wolfgang’s buttocks. It became as soft as wax in a miracle sent by God to allow
The Walk it is about another 15 minutes’ walk along the saint to rest his weary bones.
After leaving Obertraun, follow the trail above the water’s edge to Seeraunzn (%0676-433 12 63;
the lake shore around the forested Sechserkogel, Obersee 41; mains €5.50-12; h10am-8pm Easter Sun-Oct),
with its rocky outcrops. If you are combin- a lakeside restaurant that is a great place to This (clothed) beach area has sunbathing for a pipeline, which transports brine from the
ing a hike with a swim, the bluff is one of recover strength for the tougher Soleweg leg platforms, a diving board and a children’s nearby salt mines. It is reputed to be the oldest
the more attractive places for swimming off of the walk. slide. Beyond this (across the creek) is the in the world and was originally made from
rocks, although it’s best approached from the About 1½ hours into the Ostuferweg sec- rather swampy but lovely FKK naturist beach. hollowed-out tree trunks fitted together.
water itself. However, there are plenty of other tion the trail approaches Steeg and joins a Experienced swimmers can shorten the walk Approximately 1.5km from the point where
opportunities to paddle or swim along the small access road leading under the railway by tackling the 500m across the mouth of the you join the Soleweg, the trail leads past a
eastern shore. line. Follow the trail left and around. At the Traun River (don’t forget to bring your water- small workers’ hut (admission free; hsummer), which
After 1.5km the trail leads across the Hall- T-junction, Strandbadstrasse runs left under tight bag and check out the water temperature contains a small exhibition (in German) on
statt train station and, shortly after, continues the railway line again to the Steeg public beach. first). If you do this, aim for the small clearing the pipeline and salt in the region. Just after
at the camping ground. You will need to walk this is one of the walk highlights: the 43m-
OBERTRAUN TO HALLSTATT 0 1 km back towards the power station from there to high Gosauzwang bridge spanning a gorge
0 0.5 miles
resume the walk. carved out by the Gosaubach (Gosau Brook).
166
ch Hornkogel
Walkers should backtrack from the beach Sections of the walk after the bridge require
ba

145
Trau

(862m)
to the T-junction and keep going straight care in parts, especially the stretch from a
Zlam

Au
Steeg- (578m)
n

Riv Gosau
er Salzkam
merw
before turning left at the fork with the traffic 2.5km marker to the turn-off to Hallstatt. In
Steeg eg
Untersee mirror and crossing the small bridge. Here the several places you will need to duck beneath
Naturist
Steegwirt
Beach Falleck Schwarzkogel Salzkammerweg (trail No A17) ascends into a rocks and avoid dripping water while making
Elferkogel Hydroelectric Obersee (1617m) (1800m)
(1580m) Power Station Steeg grove of trees above the cliffs, or alternatively sure you keep your distance from the steep
Public
Ra
ms
au
Beach you can take the road (Arikoglstrasse) at the edges of the path. But the rewards here are
ge Löckerkogel
bi
rg (1597m) Wasserlallkogel
(1662m)
foot of the cliffs. After about 750m, those tak- many, with some great views to the lake.
e
ing the cliff path will reach the road; head left The trail divides at the 1km marker the trail
So

Gosau w
le

Go hals eg n
sau r a be
ba
ch Workers' Hut
G ei e r g and about 100m later turn right into the trail at divides. The path to the left leads 500m down
166 Obersee-Elmer the orchard. Walkers following Arikoglstrasse into Hallstatt, emerging behind the 15th-
Gosauzwang
Bridge Seeraunzn
should turn left into this trail at this orchard; century Pfarrkirche (p251). If you’re approach-
Gosaueck follow it around to the B166 main road. ing the trail from the opposite direction, this
l

Blekarkogel (1484m)
koge

(1505m)
This section is the least attractive part of the is an easy entry point, but you will miss the
hser

642
Schneldkogel
Feuerkogel
walk, but the lovely beer garden at riverside sensational views from the Rudolfsturm.
Se c

(1704m)
(1552m)
Hallstätter See
Steegwirt (%06135-8302; Au 12; mains €8-12; h10am- The trail to the right becomes steep and
Hühnerkogel
(1386m)
Hoher Sattelkogel
(1539m) 9pm, closed Tue Nov-Mar) offers relief. narrower, passing a Solestube, where the
M

Hallstatt Ferry From Steegwirt, cross the Traun River, fol- volume and pressure of brine in the pipes
üh

Salzberg Terminal Wehrkogel
lba

Hallstatt (1128m)
Solestube low the road south for about 150m past the is controlled. As you ascend, Hallstatt can
ch

Kaiser-Franz-Joseph Mine
Waterfall
Salt Mine Pfarrkirche START hydroelectric power station and turn right be glimpsed below through the trees. About
Hallstatt Obertraun
Solinggerkogel
(1406m) Rudolfsturm
Rocks
Ferry Station onto Salzstubenweg. This ascends for another 300m after a steep climb, you reach a lookout
Hohe Sieg
(1151m) END
Obertraun Obertraun- 150m to join the Soleweg to Hallstatt. and the Kaiser-Franz-Joseph mine. Steps from
l ch Dachsteinhöhlen
Forget all about low lakeside trails now. The here lead past a waterfall, where the Mühlbach
ta ba
rn ald Lahn
ke
Ec
W
le
Soleweg (also called in parts Soleleitungsweg) tumbles down a rock face towards Hallstatt.
öh
a be
nh follows the precarious path hacked into the Finally, after crossing an iron bridge and
an dgr
Ob e r e B r Ramsau mountains between 1597 and 1607 negotiating more steps, this dramatic trail

102 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Pi n z g a u e r S p a z i e r g a n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Pi n z g a u e r S p a z i e r g a n g 103

reaches a grand climax at Rudolfsturm (%06134- The walk finishes at the bottom station of 0 2 km
the Schattberg X-press (%06541-62 71 10; one way
PINZGAUER SPAZIERGANG 0 1 mile
206 77; Am Salzberg; dishes €4.50-16; h9am-6pm May-Oct).
The fort, built in the 13th century to protect €6.90; h9-11.45am & 1-4.15pm mid-Jun–Sep), located
the salt mines, today offers fine food and views right on the main road in Saalbach. Bus 680
from its hilltop location, 800m above the lake. runs every hour from Saalbach to Zell am
The historic salt mine and archaeological area See (€3.70, 30 minutes); the last bus departs Saalbach
Schaberg Kogel
(1888m)
END
are just a short walk west of here. To end at 7.15pm. Saustelgen
(1912m)
your walk, the funicular (one-way adult/child/family

Schattberg X-p
Lehntal

€5.10/3.10/10.80) – or alternatively a switchback The Walk Saa
lach Tr V

ch
ail o

Erzba
trail – take you down to Hallstatt. From the top station of the Schmittenhöhebahn N
o
76
r
d
4 e
(1965m), follow the signs to Saalbach and the r To Saalfelden

ress
g l (4km)
e
Pinzgauer Spaziergang. The views are im- Schattberg West m m

HOHE TAUERN
T a l
(2096m)
mediately spectacular: to the east the glis- Schattberg Ost
(2018m) Viehhofen Sa a l a ch

h
ld

d
ac
tening Zeller See is a blotch of inky blue on

al
NATIONAL PARK REGION

a

nb
ch

Sale
W

W
ba

e
Ex
s
the Salzach Valley more than 1000m below, er

rsba
hn

ch
Stemmerkogel

n

while to the south the 3000m summits and

ch
ba
e
(2123m)

f
O

en
PINZGAUER SPAZIERGANG pearly-white glaciers of the Hohe Tauern National
Sonnkogel
(1856m)

Ex
K i
Duration Five to six hours Park spread out before you. The well-prepared Seetörl
Saalbachkogel t z b ü
(1964m)
(2092m) Niederer- h e l
Distance 19km trail gently descends a ski slope flanked by Hackelberger Gernkogel Oberer-
A l p s
Seen Gernkogel
Difficulty Easy to medium fir trees, passes a chairlift and emerges at Zirmkogel
(2153m) (2176m)
Maurerkogel Schmittenhöhe Schm
Klingertörl (2074m)
Nearest Town Zell am See (p312) Kettingtörl. A slight incline brings you to a Medalkogel
(2059m) (2215m)
Sonnberg
(1965m)
START
itten
bach Zell am See

Summary Easy walking on grassy ridges allows you to flat ridge bordered by heather and bilberry (2122m) Hochkogel (1924m)
ng
Schmittenhöh
ebahn
(2249m) ga
enjoy the fantastic views into the Hohe Tauern National bushes, commanding views across undulating Rohrertörl Pinz ier
Klammscharte (1918m) gaue az Kettingtörl
(1993m) r Sp
Park without serious effort. alpine pastures.
Waymarked by a red-and-white stripe,
This perennially popular day hike in the the path soon narrows. Following the ridge
Zeller
Kitzbühel Alps combines gentle walking trail through fir forest studded with deep To Bruck (3km); See
with wonderful Alpine scenery. Sun-dappled blue tarns, your gaze is often drawn left to Piesendorf (5.5km)

woodlands soon thin out and give way a stunning line-up of snowy peaks including
to high pastures that are a delight to walk Austria’s highest, Grossglockner (3798m), and north, such as the chiselled Kaisergebirge saddle (2059m), where a sign next to a stile
through. To the south is a host of snow the glistening Kitzsteinhorn glacier (3203m) range, with the more distinctly alpine, glaci- indicates the way to Saalbach. Temporarily
white peaks to ogle, including the glaciated in the foreground. This view, subtly changing ated Hohe Tauern peaks to the south. leaving behind the mesmerising views of the
summits of Grossglockner and the pyramid- all the time, remains with you for the most of Passing two junctions, continue along a fine Hohe Tauern peaks, traverse the base of cliffs
shaped Kitzsteinhorn, while to the north the the walk. You soon emerge out of the forest balcony trail that begins by contouring around that sweep down from the summit of the
limestone turrets of the Kaisergebirge and onto a stony trail, where the panorama opens the base of Oberer-Gernkogel and gently Hochkogel and descend for a short while to
Watzmann slide into view. up to the south and the landscape is a patch- mounting the slightly lower Niederer-Gernkogel the wide grassy col of Seetörl (1964m), a nice
In its entirety, the Pinzgauer Spaziergang work of heather, dwarf pines and ponds that (2153m), before making its way down the place to linger and survey the petrol blue lakes
stretches 32km from the summertime boating reflect the scenery above. From here, you’ll other side to Klammscharte (1993m). If you’re of Hackelberger Seen.
playground of Zell am See in the east right catch your first glimpse of the rounded sum- attempting this walk in early season, there is a Walk north from here, either climbing dir-
across the crest of the range to Mittersill in mit of Maurerkogel (2074m), which is still high possibility that you will have to traverse ectly over the summit of the Saalbachkogel
the west. Covering the second stretch from dusted with snow in early summer. a few snowdrifts. You’re now at the foot of (2092m) or contouring around its western
Schmittenhöhe to Saalbach, this five- to six- It’s now an easy amble along a snaking Zirmkogel (2215m) which, if you have the slopes. The same option is repeated for the
hour amble takes in the highlights of the trek track through pastures where cows graze will and expertise, can be climbed in little slightly higher Stemmerkogel (2123m) where,
without the hard slog. It’s generally easy to peacefully and colourful wildflowers such as more than an hour. The rocky trail cuts a looking back, there is a final chance to bid fare-
stick to the trail, but Kompass 1:30,000 map gentian and alpine roses bloom. After nearly path through high meadows carpeted with well to the frosty pinnacles of the Hohe Tauern
No 30 Zell am See – Kaprun might come an hour of walking, the track contours around gold-tinged tussock grass and punctuated by National Park. Head down the ridge of the
in handy. the southern slopes of the Maurerkogel and boggy tarns. The sharp peak of Hochkogel mountain and continue towards Schattberg –
you’ll see the knobbly summit of Oberer- (2249m) draws ever nearer. look right and you’ll be able to trace the en-
Getting to/from the Walk Gernkogel (2175m) ahead. Continue along The narrow trail now runs like a vein tire day’s trek, including the starting point at
The walk starts from the top station of the the path, crossing the occasional meltwater through mountains whose mottled greenery Schmittenhöhe. The trail now skirts around
Schmittenhöhebahn (%06542-789-0; one way €16; stream, and you’ll spy the wooden hut at resembles a tortoise shell. Shortly you’ll reach the base of Schattberg West before making a
h9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Jun, 8.30am-5pm mid-Jun–Oct) Sonnenbergalm on the left-hand side. It’s a small hut near a cool stream that is a great final ascent to the top station of the Schattberg
in Zell am See. Gondolas depart roughly every now a short and painless ascent to the saddle spot to take a break. Around four hours from X-press gondola down to Saalbach.
half hour. For details on public transport con- of Rohrertörl (1918m), where you can contrast the start of the trek, the path veers right and If you’d prefer to return to Saalbach on foot,
nections to/from Zell am See, go to p316. the snow-free rocky limestone ranges to the ascends a fairly steep incline to Klingertörl however, follow the signs at Schattberg-Ost

104 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • K r i m m l Fa l l s L o o p lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • G a r n i t z e n k l a m m C i r c u i t 105

onto a path (trail No 764) that weaves gen- is a superb vantage point for photos, so have KRIMML FALLS LOOP Hölzlahneralm (see p317) is like a beacon
tly down a ski slope before descending more your camera ready. 0 1 km for weary walkers. Filled with local char-
0 0.5 miles
steeply through fir and pine forest. This trail The Wasserfallweg (Waterfall Path) con- acters, this rustic hut is a charming place
To Carpark (500m);
emerges onto the main road to the village tinues to weave uphill in a series of long loops, START Krimml for lunch and a deserved rest; tuck into
Village Centre
centre; if you choose this option, add one to and the well-graded trails make for easy walk- END
Ticket (700m) the homemade Kaspressknödel (cheese frit-
1½ hours to the day’s duration. ing. This area is a protected nature reserve and Office ters) with a glass of creamy buttermilk. It’s
signs remind walkers that they should stick to worth taking time here to appreciate the
KRIMML FALLS LOOP the track. Wandering through shady forest Riemann
glaciated landscape that unfolds ahead, in-
Duration Four hours carpeted in clover and bilberry bushes, you’ll Kanzel Unterer Achenfall cluding the Humbachkarkopf (2926m), the
Mittlerer Achenfall
Distance 15km glimpse the falls on the approach to the first Regen Kanzel Westliche Simonyspitze (3481m) and the
Sendtner Kanzel
Difficulty Easy proper viewpoint, Riemann Kanzel (1110m), Jaga Sprung Krimmler Kees glacier, whose meltwaters

e Route
Schönangerl
Nearest Town Krimml (p317) around 15 minutes from the start. Here you’ll Wasserfallweg
feed the Krimml Falls. In the early morning
Summary This half-day walk takes in Europe’s highest be rewarded with awe-inspiring views of the and evening, this is prime terrain for animal

d
Tra
water fall, open meadows and a little-known Celtic trail. falls, which thrash against the jagged cliffs spotters, as it has a healthy population of

c
lti
Ce
Expect mostly gentle walking and dramatic views all the way. and illuminate the dark green forest with Staubige marmots, Haflinger horses and chamois.
Bergblick
their brilliance. Oberer Achenfall
Reib Retrace your steps along the valley and
This four-hour walk explores the 380m-high The path soon begins to steepen, and tight Schettkanzel back to the falls, following the way you
Krimml Falls (Krimmler Wasserfälle) in switchbacks lead up through woodlands, Schettbrücke
came until you reach a fork in the path be-
all their splendour. The first stretch passes affording fleeting glimpses of the village of fore Schönangerl. Turn right to reach one

Krim
through lush forest, pausing at viewpoints for Krimml in the valley below. A steady incline of the day’s highlights, a little-known Celtic

Kri
close-up views of the three-tiered falls. The brings you to a number of lookout points trade route, built in about 2000 BC and re-

mle

mm
View to

r Ac
scenic trail then twists up to the Krimmler that grant close-up views of the glinting falls, stored in 1985. Mind your step on the rocky,

ler
Humbachkarkopf
(2926m)

he

Achenta
Achental, an alpine valley sliced in two by which are often arched by a rainbow when the View to
root-strewn path that twists down through
the burbling Krimmler Ache and set against a sun shines. These include the Regen Kanzel, Wildkarspitze lichen-clad fir trees. This silent area affords

l
(3073m)
backdrop of 3000m-high peaks. Looping back, hung in a fine misty spray, and the precipitous View to To Hölzlahneralm
an entirely different perspective of the falls
you’ll travel on a Celtic trade route, where Sendtner Kanzl, where the waterfall seems Westliche Simonyspitze
(3481m)
(1km); Krimmler
Tauernhaus (6km);
and deer can often be seen or heard rustling
sturdy footwear is needed to negotiate a rocky, close enough to reach out and touch it. Krimmler Kees
(15km)
through the trees. At the bottom, you’ll
root-strewn trail that can become slippery After roughly 30 minutes you’ll catch have the final chance to feel the spray of
when wet. The going is generally easy on the sight of the second tier of the falls, the 100m the waterfall from riverbanks daubed with
well-marked trail, which makes it a favourite Mittlerer Achenfall; while they are not as high as Achental, a highland valley that seems a mil- golden marsh marigolds. Make your way
with families and vista vultures. the lower and upper falls, this detracts noth- lion miles away from the tourist hordes far across the wooden footbridge and back to
ing from their drama. Between Jaga Sprung below. In June and July, the meadows here the starting point.
Getting to/from the Walk (1220m) and Staubige Reib (1330m), the zig- are ablaze with wildflowers and you’ll spend
The walk begins and ends at the ticket office, zagging trail becomes steeper at each bend, as much time staring at the ground as you do
approximately 10 minutes’ stroll from the car
park, which costs €4 per day. For further de-
contouring around slopes dotted with craggy
boulders that shimmer with minerals. By the
up ahead; keep an eye out for yellow cowslips,
bell-shaped gentian and swaths of bright pink
CARINTHIA
tails on transport to/from Krimml, see p318. time you reach Schönangerl, you might need alpine roses. Although the track is reasonably GARNITZENKLAMM CIRCUIT
Should you get tired, a taxi will set you back a quick break and this is the perfect spot to crowd-free, you’ll probably bump into a few Duration Three hours
€6.50 per person from the upper falls or €8 per kick back with a drink on the terrace, rest your hikers en route who’ll cheerfully bid you Grüss Distance 6km
person from Hölzlahneralm; bookings must legs and soak up the fabulous views. Gott (Good day). Difficulty Medium
be made by telephone (%06564-83 27). At Bergerblick (1390m), you begin your About 15 minutes from the falls, 3000m- Nearest Town Hermagor (p301)
approach to the third tier of the falls, Oberer high peaks begin to slide into view, including Summary This hike leads through the first two sections
The Walk Achenfall, which tumble 140m through a ver- the snow-capped Wildkarspitze (3073m) to of Garnitzenklamm (Garnitzen Gorge) past spectacular
From the ticket office (p317), the trail as- tical wall of granite. The sheer force of the the west. But the mountains dominating the waterfalls and pools, returning through mountain forest.
cends gently through mixed forest of fir, frothing water is impressive, and the ascent to horizon aren’t the only big rocks here – the sea
larch and birch. The raging falls nurture a the final lookout point, Schettkanzel (1460m), of dwarf pines edging the left-hand side of the Situated in a province famous for its rug-
special microclimate here – take note of os- is also likely to leave you breathless on a hot path is strewn with huge boulders and bizarre ged mountain landscapes, the 6km-long
trich ferns, spongy moss and lichen in myriad summer’s day. Approximately an hour from rock formations. Looking right, however, your Garnitzenklamm is considered to be the
shades of green, which thrive in this damp the starting point, you emerge at the top of attention is drawn to the mooing Pinzgauer prettiest gorge in Carinthia. The trail follows
atmosphere. Before you actually see the falls, the falls at Schettbrücke, where the cool forest cows that graze the pastures and the fast- the course of the Garnitzenbach (Garnitzen
you’ll hear their rumble. Soon your atten- gives way to open pastures and the Krimmler flowing Krimmler Ache. The feeling of peace Brook) and is officially open between the
tion will be drawn to the lower level of the Ache River runs swiftly over smooth rocks. in this valley is sublime and it’s little wonder months of June and September. Although this
falls, the Unterer Achenfall, which plummet Above the falls, the trail flattens and con- that it has been dubbed a mini Alaska. walk is often possible at other times of year,
140m through a steep-sided gorge and are tinues to shadow the wild glacial river, mak- Around two hours from the start of the path is even more slippery than usual –
enshrouded in mist. The bronze ibex statue ing its way through the U-shaped Krimmler the walk, the fluttering Austrian flag at very good shoes are needed for this walk at

have some pretty rock forma. bub. follow Bahnstrasse southwest gorge at an altitude of 612m. sections 3 and 4 require another 1½ hours for about 200m until the end. Hochschneeberg 1. A second north of the information booth.com lonelyplanet. dating back about upstream can get extremely slippery and re.000 years. If you decide to continue along the gorge. All bridges should be crossed one the gorge. the first bridge comes into view. the oldest (you will see boards along the way side to the next bridge crossing some 500m emergency shelter.5km) (trail No 410). From the The walk begins at the lower section of the tions. it is inadvis. is the perfect spot to gather your strength for Franzenswarte and along the northern side altitude of 1125m. constructed waterfall. After strong rainfall. to do this. Admission to the gorge is The gorge has been attracting hikers since the (trail No 116) for about 1km through some station (Bergstation). most of the hike to Baumgarten station. the gorge itself is the product of erosion over run along natural ledges. Parts of the trail have been cut the Viennese. Bridge section of the hike also offers tremendous views. the last bridge of this walk is reached. where there is an bling pools flanked with lush vegetation. l Hermagor (2. should only be attempted between April/ The trailhead is 2.106 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • G a r n i t z e n k l a m m C i r c u i t lonelyplanet. hTue-Sun May-Oct. train station. forestry track that clings to the side of the Forestry R d Niederer Hengst range. course of the line on the right-hand side for GARNITZENKLAMM CIRCUIT 0 0 500 m 0. 484 1 16 Distance 17km After about one hour and a climb of 435m you Rd a ch estr y Difficulty Easy to medium reach Hengsthütte (%02636-21 03. The vegetation shows signs of the higher Waterfall Möderndorfer Alm (1507m) altitude here. The trail continues along mountain and is the most popular among the right of the railway line for another 30 . The youngest stone (at quire care. where you have another op. At the end in which it’s possible to paddle in the chilly this circuit walk. late 19th century.hengsthuette nb For e Garnitz Kr euz Nearest Town Puchberg am Schneeberg (p187) . leaves of section 2 is a Notunterstand (emergency waters. end of section 2 and follow Steinernder Weg ing 3km. where there are spectacular views Bridge (910m) Section 3 end line through changing forest landscapes. It’s a spectacular walk at strenuous climb ahead. which has outdoor seating summer that other bridge and leads past waterfalls near fore you reach the end – at Klause – at an rive at the railway line. replacements had to be flown in and lowered tion. in all and involve several steep climbs be. which ascends the gorge left of the narrows and the level of difficulty increases. with larch and pine trees becom- 116. which begins ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: SECTIONS 3 & 4 OF The trailhead is a 10-minute walk north of The Walk after Idawarte. is also geologically Sections of the trail running along the north and crossing the bridge. follow the trail through the lush deciduous for departure times if you are completing continue another 2km through Möderndorf. This one section by rail. The vegetation in this g We section is predominantly mixed evergreen and 116 Steinwender Cross Bridge 410 St Urbani START END LOWER AUSTRIA deciduous forest of spruce. No 410 at the cross. About 30 minutes into section 1 of entire gorge. while other parts Rising to 2076m. spectacular cascades and narrow.50/1 per adult/child. hike these sections. The early section of of the gorge. From Idawarte the trail crosses an. and be prepared for all and across the railway line and bridge to on rocks and you pass a tree with an odd root ends at the road from Möderndorf. about 10. Sat & Schwarze Wand Section 2 end gra Emergency Shelter ben Summary This scenic hike follows the route of a railway Sun Nov-Apr). the gorge a higher level of difficulty. GARNITZENKLAMM the railway station in Puchberg. The first section of this trail fol- Difficult stretches have chains or iron bars to Section 1 leads around a weir and artificially gorge. but maintaining the trail pretty deciduous forest until it joins trail Plateauwanderung (Plateau Hike) begins to and crossings is difficult because of flooding. This bridge was re. lows yellow and green markers alongside hold onto. cross the bridge just before the the railway line for most of the remain- shelter). www. and finishes at the mountain person at a time. The chapel is also a vantage point for more get a bit slippery in the wet and weather can B111 southwest (left at the fork) and turn it’s worth pausing in the middle for a first view good views over the gorge. bridge follows. the trail ascends steeply forest until it rejoins the forestry road. If you are not walking the to Baumgarten station (1398m). If you want to The Walk the walk. 410. when the as- above the small settlement of Möderndorf. and has some simple frescoes. From St Urbani. sections of the trail can From the tourist office in Hermagor take the built in 2004 (cross it one person at a time). Shortly before the end of section 2 of the months. From here the 7km €2.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Pu c h b e r g t o S c h n e e b e r g 107 the best of times – and local authorities warn 460 million years. beech and some oak. and the final leg of section 1 Getting to/from the Walk and the early stages of section 2. You follow the forestry road north for about will find the trail sublime and picturesque Gai 3km and exit back onto the circuit trail in these early stages. As the trail ascends. as well as rock pools This marks the end of the gorge section of the railway line for approximately 7km able to attempt sections 3 and 4. From here of the gorge from above the water. After this crossing. the trail crosses a forestry track at the end track (watch out for trains!) and follows the of section 3. Check the railway timetable left again at the ÖAMTC office. where you turn right the summit of Schneeberg. this small chapel is set picturesquely May and October/November. gorge. be changeable. The first two sections the top of the gorge at an altitude of 1125m) into the cliffs to provide access and have a lush forests and spectacular grassy plateau. About 1km further on. who come here to hike its it is at your own risk. cent is free of snow. it is also easily reached by be carefully supervised and anyone who suf. The trail begins here. but kids should was formed about 200 million years ago and chain you can hold onto. some 500m from the junc. in the woods. T-junction and follow this road until you ar- rant. As you climb and wind through the for- Klammwirt (630m) Idawarte Weir Waterfalls Information PUCHBERG TO SCHNEEBERG est you notice views starting to open up into Franzenswarte Stand Duration 7½ hours the Hengsttal (Stallion Valley) on the east. a narrow-gauge cog railway in the summer fers from vertigo may encounter problems. just weather conditions.at. continue past the along the left-hand side of the railway line. 484 Trail Number Klause (1125m) Section 4 end Schneeberg is Lower Austria’s highest ing more frequent. into place by helicopter. beds €25. turn right at the information stand and the Klammwirt restau. consisting mostly of a To Möderndorf (1km). The entire hike Getting to/from the Walk In 2003 five bridges were swept away and towards St Urbani. After a few hundred metres it crosses the explaining the geology).3 miles portunity to leave the gorge trail. while the plateau into the valley and mountains. instead of turning right From the trailhead. the information stand at the start of the system swelling above the ground. take the path running stream on pebbly ground.5km southwest of Hermagor. are also suitable for children.

you reach the 1:35000 Naturerlebnis Wachau Wandern & Schneeberg summit. great views of the Danube and a historic lower reaches of Buchberg and gradually des- steep. it’s a good one hour after leaving Baumgarten and through vineyards and forest to hilltop castle ruins. this circuit offers the advantage of tends up to the 700m-high Buchberg to the for about 200m. (see p172). A red trail leading to Herminensteig Waxriegel mountain. After 20 minutes you reach and brings together the best qualities of the of the serpentine Danube (Donau). goes off to the right just after the railway walk you have a wonderful view of what lies wines direct from the cellar door. Near the hut is From Marktplatz in the centre of Spitz. the comfort. about Summary This is an easy hike in the Danube Valley a bench and small cross. The Wachau region is famous tö n Kaiserin Elisabeth Hoher Hengsthütte es be Gedächtniskirche Hengst by train or. You can now return to Puchberg and an orchard. About 45 For more details on this walk. Krummbachsalter the Bergstation. the distance. ends here. light mains €6-8. do not take this. These are sweet leavened pastry. situated at an altitude on 1810m. though. deciduous forest. If you are not an Oct). The first section of the walk one of the most spectacular river landscapes used for feeding game. At the difficult in the wet. commemorating royal hikes Rote-Tor-Gasse to the right. The trailhead is on the northern outskirts ite Sattel Gr e (828m) Hochschneeberg 9. ahead: the Klosterwappen (Schneeberg sum. starts from the station crags. It From here the trail changes direction sig- spot for a first rest. The trail follows the swath cut into the tree line altogether. A few minutes into the are open) offer the chance to sample local they tend to loiter around the woodpiles. mattresses/beds €10/16. From again at the school gate. just after this . Danube Cycle Path. now on you need to keep to the trail marked (1795m) and climbs gently along the side of ask at the tourist office in Spitz which ones watch out for snakes in this section of forest as yellow. Hochschneeberg 8. Don’t stray yellow) to the left to the peak. marked in green vineyards cling to high valley walls and by the local forest hunters to wait for their un- railway line before crossing the track. It’s important to keep left SPITZ–SCHWALLENBACH CIRCUIT at the first fork and follow the blue trail (trail Duration 4½ hours No 10) leading towards Huthof. trail and making a switchback southwest up ers (and train passengers). you arrive at the trailhead you will also see S h p la Baumgartenhütte Temitzerhütte berghaus. The climb to the castle and the trail next fork keep to the right. through the nature park to Schwallenbach tion of Erholungswald Jagdriedl. There are no steep drops. Hochschneeberg 7. This castle ruin. From and later yellow. a medieval city gate. between the trees there are lovely views through forest that was burned out in bush. Not surpris. this section is the steepest climb on yond the trees. rocky and uneven. a consecrated in 1901. and it fills with forestry work.at. hApr-Oct). www. complete the circuit on the ie em ei ru a sg SCHNEEBERG N ov hn K Klosterwappen (Schneeberg Plat G am N Sc plateau by taking the direct trail (green) for The Walk Damböckhaus Summit) (2076m) eau wa nde Grosser Sattel 40 minutes back past Damböckhaus.damboeckhaus Wachau: pretty vineyards. and you reach 5. fires in the 1980s. to the terraced Michaeler Berg in the east. Signs point the way. the host’s speciality – game goulash – before able. suspecting game. you might find this section is a good place to nip in for sustenance and the section to the foot of the castle manage. liqueurs and heady schnapps. after about 600m a new Baumgartenhütte (%02636-2107. Follow the path through the stone portal and into the forest. Distance 11km (round circuit back to Spitz) takes you through forest of birch. in Europe. mattresses/beds €17/23. and the path becomes .hochschneeberg@aon. which are worked G ra Sattelberg g (1450m) Hengsthütte g el Baumgarten bach on the mountain in a pension. More importantly. going in the direc- however. Bergstation. trails. into jams. dishes cost €7 to €9.at.5km. Even young children will find cends again. follow t gs Kaiserstein (852m) s en ie Fischerhütte the Kaiserstein. while rustic Heurigen (wine taverns. END The Plateauwandering has one final sec- Hintern Hengst tion. Although After a fairly moderate climb for another crossing. why Rotes Tor is considered one of the best K u s/d €24/48) is situated conveniently close to spots to take in the view. here leaves on the path PUCHBERG TO SCHNEEBERG 0 0. pine and leading to the café at Baumgarten station. then go right H R d e n ra ab r ad er by Kaiser Franz I in 1805 and 1807. With an Puchberg in the northeast. some to indulge in Baumgarten’s famous Buchtl. Lush forests and picturesque come across a Hochsitz (hunting stool) used low trail along the stone embankment of the The Plateauwanderung. of Spitz at Rotes Tor. evocative game-hunting interior. rising 225m over 1. you pass through small vineyards Madlerriegel ss Bergstation Bergstation. and Even as you approach the trailhead from run Berghaus g Waxriegel (1888m) Hochschneeberg (1314m) from there walk another 20 minutes to the Marktplatz. re rg rgr gr m Hauslitzsattel de i be m ert d Fischerhütte. Once ie Rohr al zr g g e able Berghaus Hochschneeberg (%02636-2257. you arrive continues through a nature park and returns via the nificantly for the first time by leaving the blue look like this. with magnificent views to Hoher Difficulty Easy to medium occasional oak trees. follow the yel. then leaves it and ascends and the Fischerhütte perched delicately in hiking in almost any weather conditions. pick up the Schneeberg Puchberg am minutes after leaving the fork. As the path straightens out. if you would like to stay overnight for its Marillen (apricots). Finally. offering spectacular views over experienced hiker. Hochschneeberg Hengst (1450m) and the valley around Nearest Town Spitz (p172) view over the valley opens up.com lonelyplanet. S eb astian Puchberg am the trail. north. Few places in the world about three hours into the walk. and the trail is well marked. Buchberg on the cusp of the plateau. Across from this is the The Wachau region in the Danube Valley is wooden boxes appear in the forest. hMay.108 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • Pu c h b e r g t o S c h n e e b e r g lonelyplanet. hdaily when train runs). whose summit is marked with a cross. most towns in the Wachau have hiking 600m you reach the crest of a ridge that ex- The yellow trail sticks closely to the line mit). you tackle the summit.com W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • S p i t z – S c h w a l l e n b a c h C i r c u i t 109 0 1 km About 15 minutes from Damböckhaus the are more difficult. which takes you along the ridge north for Getting to/from the Walk Ri es Kleiner 15 minutes towards Fischerhütte (%02636-2313. Gradually you leave the Damböckhaus (% 02636-2259. oramic. Enjoy the splendid panorama if the Radfahren map (€1) from the tourist office Schneebergdörf START weather is good and gather your strength.5 miles path forks and you follow the trail (marked can make it slippery in the wet. The path or 40 minutes before crossing the track and This section is also one of the most pan. and after a while you With a Buchtl in your belly. who step inside built in honour of Empress Elisabeth and the hill. too far off this path as cliffs are located be- ingly. at the stone Kaiserin Elisabeth Gedächtniskirche.

To get to the castle. In return. After walking for about an hour. This is ond section of the walk. follow to the side valley. In other words. go left along the main Teufelsmauer (Devil’s Wall) through dense for- road and right across the bridge. right side of the body exposed to the castle From here keep following the trail marked defenders.com) handles bookings and can tell you more about the hike. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above .© Lonely Planet Publications 110 W A L K I N G I N AU S T R I A • • S p i t z – S c h w a l l e n b a c h C i r c u i t lonelyplanet. Despite this once a separate town but today a part of Spitz. the Spitzer Graben (Spitz the signs along Weitwanderweg 05.donau.‘Do the right thing with our content. © Lonely Planet Publications. A two-day trek along this pilgrim’s trail begins in Stift Göttweig (near Krems An Der Donau. Walk along the trail through are more vineyards and Heurigen. This section takes you a good place to unpack a lunch. Take the yellow appears in the distance on the bluff. p167) and goes via the monastery Maria Langegg – where you stay overnight – to Melk. design. or resell it. www. with occasional glimpses over the Danube marked Auf der Wehr. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal. The degree of difficulty increases in Schwallenbach.’ . where there shoes in the wet. To walk it. yellow markers (trail No 7) until you see the Burgruine Hinterhaus (Castle Ruin Hinterhaus) fence. a small Continue along the yellow trail (trail No 5) town about 3km from the castle. which was first mentioned in completing the circuit by following the bicycle official documents in 1243. mass email it to everyone you know. To make it easier for you to use. following red-and- around Rauch Emma (one of the vineyards). the castle gradually fell into disuse tion. This two-day trek involves about six hours walking each day along pretty forest trails and costs a very reasonable €65 in a group of 15 people. This is typically the side of the body yellow. which winds along the top of From Radlbach. this time over the such a way that attackers stormed it with the rooftops of Spitz to the Danube. and for good reason: the approach choice of taking a train or bus back to Spitz or to the fortress. views shift from the Danube and Spitz from the 1460s. from a bluff you get an interesting Views from the castle are superb. unprotected by a shield in battle. and this is view of this river valley closed off on three a good place to rest up before tackling the sec- sides by densely wooded mountains. which leads down towards Radlbach. from where you have the this section. go left again. Nature Park) towards Schwallenbach. you warns that the climb ahead is steep – and it’s descend gradually through vineyards towards serious. trail No 6) alongside the brook all the another steep climb and will require good way into Radlbach settlement. It’s low. non-commercial purposes only. access to this chapter is not digitally restricted.com TREKKING WITH LLAMAS One of the more interesting hikes with llamas in Lower Austria is along a section of the Jakobsweg (Jacob’s Path). and a bottle through the lush Jauerling Naturpark (Jauerling of local wine or juice. At the road est. A sign Valley. As you walk the forest for about 500m. was planned in path alongside the Danube to Spitz. the trail divides here. crafty piece of fortress building and landscape As the trail heads in a more northerly direc. another view opens up. trail (trail No 7). into the gully and across Radlbach (Radl backtrack from the castle and take trail No Brook) then stay on the forestry track (yel. Basin). Donau Niederösterreich Tourismus (%02713-300 60 60. please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site. 6/605 (marked in red) up into the forest.

Beethoven. Throw in the mass of green space within the confines of the city limits (almost half the city expanse is given over to parkland). © Lonely Planet Publications 111 VIENNA Vienna Few cities in the world glide so effortlessly between the present and the past like Vienna.54 MILLION „ AREA: 415 SQ KM „ HIGHEST ELEVATION: HERMANNSKOGEL 542M „ AREA CODE: 01 . museums flanking magnificent squares and. it’s okay to mention poetry slam and Stephansdom in one breath. a courtyard buzzes on summer evenings with throngs of Viennese drinking and chatting. Its splendid historical face is easily recognised: grand imperial palaces and bombastic baroque interiors. Vienna’s glorious Gothic cathedral and beloved icon „ Savouring the bombastic pomp of Schloss Schönbrunn (p135) and the views from its gardens „ Immersing yourself in Vienna’s textures on MuseumsQuartier & MUMOK Stephansdom a night or day ramble along Gumpendorfer Gumpendorfer Strasse Strasse (p134) Schloss Schönbrunn „ Hanging out in the MuseumsQuartier (p130). while across the yard a museum café pulsates with beats. In this Vienna. Outside. an art space spiked with bars and alive with urban energy „ Being provoked by naked bodies smeared with salad (among other modern art flourishes) at the Vienna’s MUMOK (p130) „ POPULATION: 1. But this historical aspect often makes us forget that Vienna is also one of Europe’s most dynamic urban spaces. restaurants brim with imbibers enjoying the pleasures of wine and food. It is a reminder that the city of Mozart. the MuseumsQuartier houses some of the world’s most provocative contemporary art behind a striking basalt façade. Schubert. Haydn. It’s also a place where sushi and Austro-Asian fusion restaurants stand alongside the traditional Beisl. Brahms. the Hofburg – where the Habsburg rulers lived. Nearby. loved and married into empires. above all. Mahler and Schönberg is also the Vienna of Falco. the ‘blue’ Danube cutting a path just to the east of the historical centre and the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) creating much of Vienna’s western border and you also have a capital with a great outdoors. Strauss. HIGHLIGHTS „ Scaling Stephansdom (p124). Just a stone’s throw from Hofburg. who immortalised its urban textures in song.

a major meisterplatz 3.aboutvienna.info) The first port of Saturday. and log on. Squeezed between the minals. %404 00. 3. Banks and currency exchange offices are lo- bombing. likewise if you need an council dissolved. 11am-5pm Sat) The city library. 1st Shakespeare & Co (Map pp120-1. Währinger Gürtel 18-20) hosted the Congress of Vienna in celebration. through plague and siege at the end of the channel. has a separ. with entertainment listings. March 1938 he entered the city to the cries of Stadt. Hoher Markt and. 20. Bücherei Wien (Map p122. 12. Lorenz Böhler Unfallkrankenhaus (Map pp116-17.99) is available at nhof with Skype. civil reform and a nel. and Hitler came a-harvesting. tram and U-Bahn routes. 9. The Habsburgs inherited it. However. weekly paper gious bickering during the Reformation and public transport hub. at midnight. Vienna grew in post-Napoleon Europe and in Danube Canal and the Danube is the Prater. forming a natural border to the north and . years later by the building of a parallel chan- with baroque architecture. also literary and hard-to-find titles in English. Vienna International Center is available at Flex (p153) and rhiz (p150. Money Vienna suffered heavily under Allied most bookshops. For a street index. is in the heart of the Innere See Quick Reference on the inside front resided here permanently until Ferdinand I Stadt and is Vienna’s principal landmark. 01.freytagberndt. ViennaMed hotline %513 9595.com V I E N N A • • I n f o r m a t i o n 113 HISTORY west. after the Celtic tribe Vinid. www. by the end of the war. 07. doctor. a internet access.ac. Women’s Emergency Line (Frauennotruf. %313 10.50. street that terminates at Karlsplatz. and lists major city-wide Speednet Café (Map pp116-17.wien. This was supplemented 100 listings in every genre imaginable. The Allies INFORMATION About Vienna (www. open 8am to 6pm weekdays and 8am to 4pm Valley. h9am-7pm Mon. Allgemeines Krankenhaus (Map p122. guidebooks. in German only). 9. office in Westbahnhof keeps hours from 7am ORIENTATION 4) The largest selection of English novels. %4000 84500. straddling the U6 line. the Innere Stadt (inner city. Freytag & Berndt’s 8am-midnight Sun) Bustling internet café inside Westbah- 200. dial %1550 (in German only). h7am-midnight Mon-Sat.30pm Mon-Fri.com lonelyplanet. h9:30am-6. Apotheken (pharmacy) outside shop hours. Weihburggasse (%512 19 45. h9am-7pm Mon-Fri. restaurants and bars Internet cafés charging around €2 to €4 per World Fair. 8-9. 1529 (p37).shakespeare. 01. academic and The settlement blossomed into a town by the It’s encircled on three sides by the Ringstrasse. an important pedestrian Police station (Map pp120-1. The 1920s saw the rise of fascism.at. Vienna’s and competitors’ maps.onb. but none of them its slender spire. (Continued on page 123) . The free tourist office Vienna map shows Lerchenfelder Strasse 13. h9. Bookshops with cultural and sightseeing information.at) Comprehensive the train stations and airport.at. between new and old EU member nations. Donaueschingenstrasse 13) city’s architectural and cultural development are in the Innere Stadt or west of the centre hour include: Unfallkrankenhaus Meidling (Map pp116-17. in German) Weekly magazine. Kundratstrasse 37) been consigned to the past (p32). noon.30am-8pm Thu Fri. %892 56 66. h9am-11pm) Centrally located in the Innere Stadt. 9am-6pm Sat) For maps and travel guides. in German) Site with to 10pm daily. Heinrich-Collin-Strasse 30) 1873 hosted its second international event. the large park and playground of the Viennese.britishbook City of Vienna (www. but compare commission Russian troops liberated the city. Kärntner Strasse. with the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) Freytag & Berndt (Map pp120-1. Südbahnhof and Franz-Josef- post for the Celts when the Romans arrived heart. Vienna Online (www. %535 50 53. His reign over the Donaupark. best resource for political commentary and entertainment 17th century. with Emergency lending sections. h24hr) Informa. 01.000 ecstatic Viennese. and on 11 April 1945 advancing Internet Resources cated around town. Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral). the Donauinsel (Danube Island) recreational Internet Access The following sKrankenhäuser (hospitals) Things turned sour at the beginning of the area. changed hands a number of times. 01. and in 1814–15 Vienna (UNO City. %71 719. hours call %512 20 78 (recorded message The socialists were defeated and Vienna’s city bus.30am-6pm Sat) government-run website. the Danube. rock up with your passport 14. h10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Counter-Reformation and suffered terribly The Danube runs down a long. %534 10 397. Falter (www. h11am-7pm Mon- In 881 the town.bue introduced to the surrounding area. stocks its own Left Luggage VIENNA VIENNA Vienna was probably an important trading east to southwest through the city. 01. h10am-midnight Mon-Fri.at. Mariahilfer Strasse ever-popular Falter magazine (right). twice. Sterngasse 2.org) General website rates before changing money. surfaced in official documents and over 3km from the Gürtel (literally. Urban-Loritz-Platz. between the Ringstrasse and the Gürtel. It also has a blow-up of the Innere Europlatz. h24hr) 18th century heralded a golden age for Vienna. %533 86 85. For gay-specific publications see boxed text. %595 45 50. Vienna was a hotbed of revolt and reli. midnight Sat & Sun) Smoky internet café and call centre. info on parties. The original Alte Donau (Old Danube) Vienna has dozens of places offering pub. The Danube (Donau) River flows north. it Vindobona. www. fire and police. Falter (www.vienna. (ATMs) are found everywhere. festivals and news. 15. the beginning of the inate flooding. Deutsch. BigNet (Map pp120-1. Weihburggasse 24). Nationalbibliothek (Map pp120-1.30am-6pm Sat) A good range of travel books. Most hotels. Westbahnhof. have emergency rooms open 24 hours a day. beaches and free after 9pm).at. Kohlmarkt 9. 19th century – Napoleon occupied the city loops north of the Neue Donau to enclose lic access to online services. pensions. and vineyards were or Ring. and since then it has gone from British Bookshop (Map pp120-1.000 fold-out map (€7. Austria was ripe for the ate U-Bahn plan. the monarchy had %601 50-0. The advent of WWI stalled the %331 10. a series of broad roads sporting an Friendly staff. the Danube Canal (Donaukanal). Ring is at a distance of between 1.falter. They set up camp and named District). creating Medical Services classical music revolution. which has a couple of ter. straight tion in English and German on local doctors. %910 21-0. If you require a Zahnarzt (dentist) after 1934 civil war broke out in the city streets. the city was besieged by Turks in Leading south from Stephansplatz station is for ambulance. 01. The bank at Südbahnhof is Vienna occupies 415 sq km in the Danube reference and teaching books. art books. most shut down the razor’s edge of Cold War to the focal point shop. extravaganza of architectural delights. Libraries 3rd and 4th centuries. %533 2939.at. home to the UN). Mariahilfer chereiwien. a larger & Fri. %24hr) City (in German) Like a downsized Falter. %526 60 77. 01. 07. Europe was brief.at. before the from outlying autobahns. then known as ‘Wenia’. Bücherei Wien (right) also has free Hanusch-Krankenhaus (Map pp114-15. www. p140. 09. in German) Online version of the The money exchange and banking services Mariahilfer Strasse (%522 67 30.at. the ensuing centuries control of Vienna traffic artery that is fed by the flow of vehicles maps and a small range of English fiction.falter. built between 1870 and 1875 to elim. in 1805 and 1809 (p30). Westbahnhof. call for any visitor. 06. www Vienna Tourist Board (www. cover for nationwide emergency numbers Media in 1533.30am-7pm Mon-Wed. The Thalia (Map pp116-17.wien. 1:25. Free access seven days a week. including at ent in 1955. water-sports centres. ‘belt’). is south of the river on a diversion of . www Bahnhof have left-luggage lockers (per locker €2- around 15 BC. Sat) Has a strong range of eclectic. on 15 sights. Bankomats joined them until Vienna became independ.at. 9. Josefsplatz 1.gv. 112 V I E N N A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet. picking. the Neue Donau (New Danube). and by Maps Speed Connect (Map pp120-1. literary. h24hr).75km and Strasse 99. till 9pm Thu) National library with huge reference and Babenburgs gained the upper hand (see p30).co.

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Eisenstadt (50km)......ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Ὀ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ 114 ᝲᝲ ᝲ A GREATER VIENNA B C D To Kahlenberg 10 E F 0 0 G 1 mile 2 km H 115 Str (2km) 3 229 INFORMATION DRINKING (pp149–52) 12 To Göbel (3km) ner Sie ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ me Prage To Klosterneuburg (8km)........................... 6 G6 Austria Memphis Rein mel c 11 Floridsdorf str Lang a ὆὆ be nstäd isch Sand Nordbrücke 21 Franz-Horr-Stadion. Carnuntum (35km). Brün Hanusch-Krankenhaus (Hospital).. Graz (190km).2 E1 Mayer am Pfarrplatz.........................8 F2 TRANSPORT er S (pp158–61) erga sse Strandbäder ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ tr Heiligenstadt Ob Str l na Avis...................................14 D1 ass auer lg Re e old ise Do Lainzer Tiergarten...... ὆὆὆὆὆὆ eit Schoder.. Krems (65km) tr ὆὆ Slovak Embassy........... 9 G5 o ube Untersievering Arb Wa na Kagran rm ste Oberdöbling Nordbahnbrücke u eit tu ttn r au ὆὆ ers Dan Krotten -St Brigittenauer Don er Pötzleinsdorfer Pötzleinsdorf bach r Handelskai tra 2 str Krottentachstrasse ifte nd 2 str Schlosspark Brücke -St ba pen dst ert Donaupark Str r alb ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲ ᝲ nal Kagraner- ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Str ὈὈ Ὀ Ad Alte Donau brücke Donaustadt hie Währing Peter-Jordan-Str str Gersthof 22 Sop en er 3 ὆὆὆ ὆὆ ds 18 Oberdöbling un Dornbach Traisengasse ram Erz her Wienerwald Kaisermühlen Vienna ag Brigit Am Brigittenau W zog Dr Spitte Gersthof International Centre Länd 20 -Ka esd ὆὆὆ Ha Gersthofer rl-S ten tr ne Währing nd Friedhof Schwimsteg- e lauer Alsze rS els r aue Str ile brücke Währinge Dornbacher 18 tr ka Gürtel Franz Josefs ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲ ᝲᝲ Reichsbrücke ὆὆὆ Ge uer r Hernals Dor i nba Friedhof Wäh ntzgasse Bahnhof Donauinsel Grosses Erz her dla 17 che Hernalser ringe Gänsehäufel zog Län r St Friedhof r Str Augarten Sta -Ka Nordbahn r Vorgartenstrasse rl-S de Alsergrund Ob Hernals Kaisermühlen............................. 17 F5 Neue Donau ere er Ca Alt ὆὆ 8 m EATING (pp145–9) Hi Unterdöbling e D gra See Vienna Map (pp116–17) rs str ch Schloss Concordia.......... Trie Wienerberg fu ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Friendhof Gutheil- Laaer friedhof Str en Laaer 9 Neusiedl am See (44km).....................................7 B3 Gerhard-Hanappi-Stadion.................. 13 C6 Str ue Grinzing z h Kirche am Steinhof................................. r Braunschweig.............................1 C4 Hirt...... 23 ὅὅὅὅ er Rennweg brücke Ka Unterer Prater Linzer Str erstr Westbahnhof Str i 4 Au Hadikgass Felb tr r Ren rS 4 ten ho e Mariahilf nwe Erdberger ilfe ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ fstr g Landstrasse are Prater Maria h Wieden Brücke Fasangarten ὅὅὅὅ Penzing 6 r arg Hietzinge ptst To St Pölten (66km)......... dorfer rte ὈὈ Südwest Zentral........5 F6 ENTERTAINMENT (pp152–5) 8 ter S ach Hi 2 ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ m kerg nu Zentralfriedhof....... g asse Wie n Margareten dne Gürtel rge Wieürtel rL Fre Salzburg (301km) Wien 5 ὆὆ Schlossbrücke änd Re tr Re gasse r ud G dne e Osta Freudenau S inp nn en Schloss Schö utob Sch we au Horse Wie Str Schlonbrunn Linke rec Schönbrunn ile rtel ahn Wien ze er Sim rut g Südbahnhof zer ngü Racing hts ssstr er ὆὆ ὆὆ meri Laxenburger Str Ha ga ka in ete Südtiroler nge do Sim sse La gar Arsenal fe r r Lä ns Platz rfe Tiergarten Ma nde me Län tr r as rin ὆὆ se ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Dan gen r Haidestrasse rgst Matzleinsdorfer ge ube Ruckergasse Eli Tiroler r nst r sab feld Platz Gudrunstr Can Lainzer Str Garten Meidling nbe Ha eth Meidling he Simmering al Eic up gass ὆὆ ὆὆ ὆὆὆ Str A4 ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ all 12 Grü Train Aspangbahn tst Hietzing ee er Station tr e r Fasangarten drats est 13 Kun Tri Simmering tr 11 Edelsinns Favoriten ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ 4 Wienerbe rgstr 10 5 17 5 Simmering Str ὇὇὇ Ostbahn Altman Erholungsgebiet ger Raxstr Hetzendorf isin Str Golf Laaer Wald Kaise Schöpfwerk 225 tr rebe ὇὇὇ ὆὆὆὆὆὆ Spe Course rS ns rsdo ster Erholungsgebiet 15 rfer To Vienna Airport (10km)..................15 F5 gas Grinzing g se er asse Grinzinger Str Hohe Warte e SLEEPING (pp141–5) Rapid Vienna 14 Str ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Heilig ὆὆὆ ὆὆ ὆὆ Camping Wien West........11 E1 rei r 1 A22 1 Str ber Sirbu..............

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