D I S C OV E R G U I D E

PRAGUE
DINNER
ON THE RIVER
CRUISE
Including a buffet dinner, aperitif and live music on board.
Free pickup from your hotel at 6.20pm.
Cruise starts at 6.40pm and finishes at 10pm.

Although Prague is a beautiful city no matter what time of day, it‘s especially
enchanting by night. When the sun goes down, twinkling lights illuminate the
city‘s ancient buildings, which are best seen from the River Vltava running
through the city‘s centre. On our Prague river cruise, you‘ll travel down the
Vltava, passing famous sights like Charles Bridge, Lesser Town, the Church of
St Nicholas, Prague Castle and the National Theatre - all while enjoying dinner
and live music on board. Dinner is a buffet of both hot and cold dishes, and
you‘ll also receive a welcome drink included in the cruise price.
Upon boarding the boat you will be welcomed by our hostess who will
take care of you during the cruise. The hostess does not substitute for a guide;
nevertheless, she will provide you with at least the basic information on the
cruise programme and assist you if you have any inquiries. There are also
professional barkeepers and catering staff looking after you.

CIAL DEAL
SPEC
SP
CZK 690 (€ 26) WITH A FREE PICKUP

+420 222 554 211 www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 2
HISTORY OF PRAGUE ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 4
BEST TIME TO VISIT ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 5
TRIP PLANNING ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 6
NEIGHBOURHOODS ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 8
SAFETY ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 12
ACCOMMODATION ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 14
ANNUAL EVENTS AND FESTIVALS ��������������������������������������������������������������� 16
ACTIVITIES ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 22
POPULAR ACTIVITIES ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 26
ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN ����������������������������������������������� 28
TRANSPORTATION ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 30
SHOPPING ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 46
EATING / RESTAURANTS ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 54
PUBS AND BARS ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 66
ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE ������������������������������������������������������������������������ 74
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE ������������������������������������������������������������� 88
CITY TOURS ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 148
WHERE, WHEN AND HOW TO JOIN US ���������������������������������������������������� 154
DAY TRIPS �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 156
THE CZECH LANGUAGE ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 172
FAMOUS CZECHS ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 174
NOTES, DISCLAIMER���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 175
 1
INTRODUCTION

Charles
2 Bridge at night
To enjoy the city to the fullest, regard-
less of whether you are visiting Prague
just for a short time or for a full week,
our guide will be there to help you dis-
cover the best of it. Our simple travel
guide, a pack with essential informa-
tion, is here to make your visit to Prague
enjoyable by suggesting where to go,
what to see, how to get there, what to
avoid and where to drink the famous
Czech beer and sample traditional local
Bohemian food. But, also be prepared to
abandon our suggested sightseeing itin-
eraries and wander wherever your mood
takes you.
Just take our guide and a map and ex-
plore. Don‘t overlook the small side streets
and courtyards where Prague is often at
its most charming. Don’t worry about get-
ting lost, Prague’s centre is quite compact
and best explored on foot. However, when
you get tired, take the tram or metro. Pub-
lic transportation is very efficient, cheap
and one of the best in Europe.
Spend some time in traditional Czech
pubs and cafés, do some shopping, take
a few romantic photos of Charles Bridge,
all-the-while marvelling at the beauty of
a thousand spires that have already at-
tracted millions of tour groups. The city
was undamaged by WWII and can now
offer you an unforgettable experience just
by walking through the redeveloped Ba-
roque, Rococo and Art Nouveau streets.
 3
INTRODUCTION

HISTORY OF PRAGUE
Founded in the latter part of the 9th century, Prague became the seat of
the kings of Bohemia. The city flourished during the 14th century reign of
Charles IV, who ordered the building of the New Town, the Charles Bridge,
St Vitus Cathedral and the Charles University.
For centuries, Prague was a multi-ethnic city with an important Czech,
German and (a mostly Yiddish, German speaking) Jewish population.
The four cities that previously formed Prague only unified in 1784 to
proclaim the Prague we know today. These four cities were Hradčany,
Lesser Town, Old Town and New Town. In 1850 the city underwent
further expansion when the Hebrew district Josefov was constructed
and in 1883 Vyšehrad.
From 1939, when the country was occupied by the Nazis, and during
WW II, most Jews either fled the city or were killed in the Holocaust. The
German population, which had formed the majority of the city’s inhabitants
till the 19th century, was expelled in the aftermath of the war.
Prague was under communist rule for over 40 years and seldom visited
by tourists until after the Velvet Revolution on 17 November 1989. From
the moment freedom came to the streets, the city started enjoying a
huge economic boom, even more so after the Czech Republic joined the
European Union in 2004. Now, it is a very popular tourist destination –
according to statistics, it is the 5th most visited city in Europe.
The city is situated on both banks of the River Vltava in central Bohemia.
Prague is the Czech Republic‘s capital and the cradle of Czech culture.
Many famous writers, artists, athletes and sportspeople, models and film
directors were born here.
Prague has a huge number of buildings of special architectural interest.
In 1992, the historical centre of the city, covering 866 hectares (3.34 square
miles), was listed in the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage
Register. No matter where you go, you will discover parts of the city’s
multilayer history dating back to the Holy Roman Empire, the Habsburg
Empire, the first Czechoslovak Republic (1918), the Nazi Protectorate of
Bohemia and Moravia, the Communist Republic of Czechoslovakia to the
present time of a democratic Czech Republic.
4
INTRODUCTION

BEST TIME TO VISIT
Prague has a continental climate, with hot summers and cold winters.
Probably the best time to visit Prague is around May or September, when the
weather is not too hot or cold and the city is not overcrowded.
It is not unusual during the summer for temperatures to reach as high as
35°C (95°F), and in the winter it can be as cold as -15°C (5°F). The average
high temperature from May to September is 22°C (72°F), with an average
low of 12°C (54°F) and on average seven hours of sunshine per day.
Spring and summer are likely to be the sunniest months, while the period
between May and August is the rainiest – sudden storms and showers are
common, therefore don’t forget your umbrella. The amount of rainfall is
fairly consistent throughout the year, with just a tad more in spring and
autumn, and the very occasional summer thunderstorm.
December is the time to visit Xmas markets or at the end of year join the
New Years’ crowds celebrating in the streets. It is also a good time for concert
and opera lovers. Snow is rather rare in Prague but the best months to get a
chance to see the city covered in a white blanket are January and February.
If you’re planning to visit Prague during the peak summer season, be
prepared for crowded restaurants and hotels, and a city full of tourists.

Clothes & Packing Brief Facts about Prague
The weather in Prague can be change- Prague (Praha in Czech) is the
able during the spring and summer, so capital and largest city of the Czech
it is worth bringing some warm cloth- Republic. It is home to nearly 1.3
ing and a waterproof jacket as well. million inhabitants (94% Czechs
When visiting Prague during the and 4% Slovaks). The city is situ-
autumn or winter months, bring a ated about 1377km from London,
good selection of warm clothes. But 292km from Vienna and 350km
probably the most important to take from Berlin. The official language
is a pair of comfortable shoes as is Czech but the people also speak
you will be doing a lot of walking. English, German and Russian. The
Since many streets are still cobble- time zone is Central European Time:
stone, it can be tough on your feet. GMT+1, in summer GMT+2.
 5
INTRODUCTION

TRIP PLANNING
Prague is busy almost year-round, except in January and February, which
are probably the quietest months of the year. Despite that fact, Prague isn’t
a city requiring a visitor to do extra planning or make advance bookings.
Most visitors book their accommodation prior arrival to get the online rates,
which is much cheaper than the normal hotel walk-in rates. But, if for some
reason you do not make an advance booking, Prague still has a lot of hotels
and other facilities to accommodate crowds of tourists and you will always
find a place to stay. The recession has hit Prague’s hotel sector hard creating
a constant oversupply of top-end hotel rooms causing many places to drop
their prices and offer last-minute deals in an attempt to attract guests.
For the modest and cheap restaurants, it is not necessary to make a
reservation, in the up-scale restaurants, it is recommended you reserve
a table one day in advance, or even on the morning of the same day. The
exception might be during New Year‘s Day, Valentine’s Day or Easter, when
one week in advance should be sufficient.
If you wish to attend a particular opera or classical music concert, we
advise booking two or three weeks ahead to ensure seating. Outside of
high season, you won’t have any difficulty getting tickets from the box
office on the day of the performance.
If you travel to Prague on a low-cost airlines, it is probably the only part of
your trip where earlier means cheaper, in terms of advance ticket booking.

MONEY AND COSTS even go on shopping trips to neigh-
Apart from hotel prices, city centre res- bouring Germany or Austria.
taurants and other tourist attractions,
Prague is still quite cheap and consid- Approximate Exchange Rates
ered a bargain destination compared EUR 1 = CZK 27 CAD 1 = CZK 19
to other western European countries. GBP 1 = CZK 30 DKK 1 = CZK 3,50
Though for luxury goods, like electri- USD 1 = CZK 24 JPY 1 = CZK 0,18
cal appliances, cosmetics and fashion, CHF 1 = CZK 25 NOK 1 = CZK 3
prices are higher here than elsewhere, AUD 1 = CZK 19 SEK 1 = CZK 2,80
resulting in the fact that many locals
6
INTRODUCTION

An average tourist will spend around or at a midrange restaurant from CZK
CZK 2500 per person per day, in- 900 to CZK 1200. Lunch in a pub
cluding accommodation, entry fees costs about CZK 150 per person and
and transport costs. The lowest dai- a special lunch menu in cheap eatery
ly budget can be as low as CZK 900 costs around CZK 80 to 100. A cup
if you stay at cheap hostels, eat of coffee in a city café is CZK 50, but
take-away food and use public in Starbucks it is around CZK 100.
transport. However, if you stay in A beer in a pub outside the city cent-
private accommodation, eat at av- er will cost around CZK 30 though in
erage restaurants, visit some paid the heart of the city, this will cost up
attractions and manage your budg- to CZK 80, soft drinks about CZK 35.
et, you can get by on CZK 2500 a Cigarettes are still a bit cheaper than
day. At the luxury end, if you stay in other parts of the EU: a pack of
at top-end hotels, eat at exclusive Marlboro cigarettes costs CZK 89. In
restaurants, do shopping and use supermarkets, a 0.5l bottle of water
taxis, you could easily spend CZK costs CZK 15, a loaf of bread from
10000 a day. CZK 25, a litre of milk CZK 20.
Do not expect Prague to be extreme- If you are planning to rent a car, a
ly cheap and keep in mind that only litre of petrol will cost you around
some products and services are CZK 30. Cinema tickets cost up to
much cheaper here. Beer, food in CZK 200. A one-day public transport
supermarkets and public transport pass costs CZK 110, a taxi from the
remain relative bargains compared airport to the city centre is around
to other European capitals. CZK 650, and a taxi within the city
Attractive hotels in Prague’s city cen- centre should cost around CZK 250.
tre range between CZK 3500 and CZK
6000 for a double room, but hotels in
Prague’s suburbs can cost as little as Money Exchange Advice
CZK 700 for a single room. Staying Some exchange offices in
in a hostel dormitory room for one Prague charge commission of
costs on average CZK 400, but can up to 10% and they will adver-
be found for as low as CZK 250 in tise higher exchange rates, hop-
the low season. Dinner for two with ing customers will not realise
some drinks at one of the fancier res- there is a high commission fee.
taurants can cost around CZK 2000
 7
INTRODUCTION

NEIGHBOURHOODS
The city was historically comprised of five independent towns: Hradčany
(the Castle Area), Malá Strana (Lesser Town), Staré Město (Old Town),
Nové Město (New Town), and Josefov (Jewish Quarter), and these are still
relevant today. So if you can see how these relate to one another, and
which side of the river each of them are on, the city suddenly becomes a
lot easier to navigate.

Staré Město (Old Town) Prague Castle). The castle looks out
This is Prague‘s most central area over the heart of the city from the
with the city’s most popular attrac- west bank of the River Vltava. The-
tions. The busy restaurants, pubs, re‘s been a royal seat here for over
and shops are here. During the day, a millennium, and it continues to
and even in the evenings, crowds serve as headquarters of the Czech
of tourists fill its most-visited areas. president. It is also home to many of
Yet regardless of all the commerci- Prague‘s top tourist attractions.
al activity, there are still plenty of
small backstreets, giving the area Malá Strana (Lesser Town)
a lived-in feel that is rarely found This is Prague‘s picturesque Little
in European city centres. At the he- Quarter, situated below the castle,
art of the Old Town is the Old Town and in many ways the city‘s most
Square, Prague‘s showpiece main captivating area. Its many peace-
square, the most magnificent in ful, often hilly, cobbled backstreets
central Europe, and a great place to have changed very little since old
get your bearings before exploring times. They cover a whole host of
further afield. The Old Town is co- quiet terraced gardens, as well as
nnected to the Malá Strana (Lesser the wooded Petřín Hill and spans up
Town) via the Charles Bridge. to the Charles Bridge which conne-
ct with the Old Town.
Hradčany and Prague Castle
Prague‘s skyline is dominated by the Josefov
vast hilltop complex of Prague Ca- Josefov’s main attraction is the Old
stle in Hradčany (the district around Jewish ghetto, which remains one
8
INTRODUCTION

of the most remarkable sights in ramparts afford superb views over
Prague. Although the warren-like the river; and below the fortress the-
street plan of the old ghetto was re are several interesting examples
demolished in the 1890s to make of Czech Cubist architecture.
way for streets of luxurious five-
-storey mansions, six synagogues, Vinohrady
the Jewish town hall and the me- Vinohrady is a late nineteenth-
dieval cemetery still bear witness to -century residential suburb, domi-
the history. It is quite a small area nated by long streets of grandiose
spread around the Old Town, bor- apartment blocks, with few sights
dering with the River and Paris (Pa- or attractions around, though the
řížská) Street – the most expensive area is quite comfortable with easy
area in the whole of Prague dotted access to the New Town and many
with top-brand boutique shops. good restaurants around.

Nové Město (New Town) Smíchov and Anděl
This is the city‘s commercial and Smíchov is a residential and indu-
business district, housing big sho- strial area of Prague famous for
pping malls, hotels, cinemas, ni- it’s Nový Smíchov shopping mall,
ghtclubs and fast-food restaurants. brewery, industrial architecture,
The hub of the New Town is the cinemas, cosy restaurants, bars
long, sloping boulevard, Wenceslas and nightlife. The Staropramen
Square. This square used to be the Brewery is located in Smíchov and
horse market for this bustling wor- is a popular place to visit if you are
king class locale. The Old Town, a beer lover.
even today, is segregated from the
New Town by a “moat” (which re- Žižkov
fers to a street named Na Příkopě). Žižkov is a grittier working-class
district with no tourist attractions,
Vyšehrad whose shabby, rundown streets
The fortress of Vyšehrad makes for a contain some of the city‘s well-
perfect afternoon escape away from -known pubs and clubs. Today,
the human congestion of the city many buildings have been renova-
centre: its cemetery shelters the re- ted, and the shabby feeling about
mains of Bohemia‘s artistic elite; the the area is slowly changing.
 9
INTRODUCTION

Holešovice
Tucked into a U-bend in
the River Vltava, this dense,
built-up neighbourhood da- DEJVICE B
tes from the late nineteenth-
-century, but for centuries
was an area of fields and Vítězné
meadows. Still today this R O P S K Á nám.
EV
suburb of Holešovice boasts H
DY
MILA
two huge areas of green:
Letná, overlooking the city
centre, and, to the north,
L
Stromovka, Prague‘s largest PRAGUE CASTLE
public park, bordering the
Výstaviště funfair and trade
fair grounds. HRADČANY
Karlín
This is surrounded by the CHARLES B
Vltava river and Holešovice PETŘÍN LESSER
VLTAVA
on the northern side, Žižkov
and Vítkov hill on the sou-
HILL TOWN
thern side, New Town on
the western side, and Libeň
on the eastern side. During
2002, Karlín was seriously hit
by the thousand-year flood. KÁ
Since then, it has recovered PLZEŇS
and become a new area for ANDĚL
residences and businesses.
Even these days, Karlín re-
mains a rather shabby part SMÍCHOV
of Prague, with lots of cheap
hotels, situated close to the
Florenc bus station.
10
INTRODUCTION

U
UR
BUBENEČ AN
IE

HOLEŠOVICE
ÁK OVÉ
Y HOR S KÁ
OV
LETNÁ K OL
SO
E
JOSEFOV KARLÍN
OLD TOWN
VA
SQUARE ĚVO
KON
S BRIDGE WENCESLAS
SQUARE
ŽIŽKOV
OLD TELEVISION
TOWN VINO-
TOWER
ŽITNÁ HRADY
nám.
Míru SLEZSKÁ
DANCING
HOUSE
NEW TOWN

VYŠEHRAD V R Š O V IC K Á

 11
INTRODUCTION

SAFETY
Prague is a comparatively safe city, violent crimes very seldom happen,
and while the crime rate is still low, common safety precautions should be
taken as petty crime is on the increase in the central areas of Prague.
Do not leave valuables, including your passport, unattended in hotel rooms.
Instead, use hotel safes or better yet, leave your expensive items at home and just
take your passport. The biggest danger for tourists is definitely pick-pocketing.
This is most common where large groups gather, i.e. on crowded trams or
at busy tourist spots. When travelling, keep a photocopy of your passport and
credit card information on you. This way if you lose these items or have them
stolen, you will be able to get replacement travel documents and access to your
money. According to Czech law you have to have proof of identification with
you at all times, but in reality, the police very rarely ask people for identification.
If arriving by car don’t keep luggage and valuables visible in your car.

Watch out for Pickpockets Travelling on the public trans-
Pickpockets in Prague are very port system can save you not
skilful. They usually act in a group only time but mainly money.
and target trams, metros and other That is, however, only in the
crowded places. Be particularly case that you are travelling with
careful on tram no. 22. the correctly stamped travel
documents. After boarding your
Dishonest Taxi Drivers means of transport, it is neces-
Sadly, Prague still has some of the sary to get your ticket stamped.
worst taxi drivers in the world when it Only in this way is the ticket val-
comes to overcharging. It‘s a stand- id and you will not run the risk
ard warning that taxi drivers in Prague of a war of words with a ticket
are famous for trying to rip off both inspector. Transport inspectors
tourists and even locals. Never take like to check foreign tourists
a taxi off the street. From the airport, precisely because on many oc-
pre-book a safe taxi in advance with casions they are not aware that
www.Prague-Airport-Transfers.co.uk. their ticket must be punched.

12
INTRODUCTION

Health
If you feel that you didn’t have
a good meal though, don’t be There is no health threat when trav-
afraid of not leaving a tip at all. elling to Prague. The water supply in
Prague is good. It is considered very
safe to drink water from the tap, but
Scams in Prague Restaurants it is heavily chlorinated so it can
Even though the current situation is have a metallic taste. If you need
much better compared to ten years drugs for a medical condition, go to
ago, you should still be aware of this a pharmacy, the only places that sell
and always check your bill carefully. over-the-counter medicines. They
The most common scam is charg- also dispense many drugs normally
ing for additional extras like sauces, available only on prescription.
bread, rolls or pretzels on the table.
Usually the menu will state that the Legal Matters
price excludes charges for bread, but Alcohol – the legal drinking age is
the notice will be printed somewhere 18 years.
where it is hard to see. The simple Drugs – the law in the Czech Re-
solution is if you do not want to pay public forbids possessing more
for those items, then ask the wait staff than a small amount of drugs.
to take them away. Even if you do not Driving – there is zero blood alco-
eat it, but it is on the table, you are hol tolerance.
obliged to pay. In pubs if you do not
get an itemised bill, do a quick rough Emergency Numbers
calculation and if in doubt, ask your 112 – General emergency number
wait staff for a detailed bill. If you pay (similar to 999 in the UK). Operators
a large bill for a group of people, it is speak English and German. This
pretty easy to squeeze in a few extra can be used for any emergency
crowns on your bill or they may make situation (police, fire brigade, or
a wrong calculation. By Czech law, the emergency medical assistance,
bill always includes a service charge, road accident report).
but does not include optional tips. 150 – Fire brigade
Some establishments might try to 155 – Medical emergency
persuade customers to leave an addi- (ambulance/first aid)
tional 10%, although you do not have 156 – Prague City police
to unless the service was excellent. 158 – Police
 13
ACCOMMODATION

Grand Hotel Evropa at
Wenceslas Square is one of the
oldest hotels in Prague, dating
back to 1872. The building is
an excellent example of Art
Nouveau architecture.

14
Prague offers an extensive range of
accommodation options, from romantic
hotels based in historical town houses,
to international chain hotels, such as the
Ibis, Hilton, Sheraton and Crown Plaza.
There are also budget hostels, as well
as smaller boutique hotels. Furthermore,
a new trend has emerged of renting a
Prague apartment for a short term peri-
od, which is particularly popular among
bigger groups who prefer more self-
catering and privacy.
Do not be surprised to discover some
hotels which date back to the Communist
period, but which are all equipped with
modern amenities. Hotel prices are simi-
lar to the rest of Europe and, generally,
the further you are from the centre, the
less expensive the hotels are. Some ho-
tels feature name prefixes, such as Lesser
Town or Old Town (for instance, Ibis Wenc-
eslas Square, Ibis Lesser Town, Hilton Old
Town). However, often these hotels are not
actually situated in these areas, and the
name prefixes are just a marketing ploy.
If you are travelling around Christmas,
Easter and July or August it is best to
book well ahead. When looking for ac-
commodation you should check both
the price and the distance from the city
centre. Sometimes it is better to find ac-
commodation further from the centre
because, compared to other world cit-
ies, Prague is quite small and its public
transport is very effective.  15
ANNUAL EVENTS AND
FESTIVALS

Christmas
16 Markets at Old Town Square
Public Holidays
Czech Independence Day and New Year (January 1)
A day to mark the creation of an independent Czech
Republic following the division of Czechoslovakia on
January 1, 1993.
Easter Monday & Good Friday (March/April)
Labour Day (May 1)
Romantics lay flowers in front of the statue of Hynech
Mácha on Petřín Hill.
Liberation Day (May 8)
The day commemorates the liberation of Czechoslovakia
by the Allies in May 1945.
Day of the Slavic Apostles Cyril and Methodius (July 5)
The missionaries Cyril and Methodius are closely
associated with the arrival of Christianity in this country
and the first Slavic alphabet, Cyrillic (in the year 863).
Jan Hus Day (July 6)
The day marking the burning of Jan Hus at the stake
(July 6, 1415). Jan Hus was a reforming religious
leader and the rector of Prague University.
Day of Czech Statehood (September 28)
The day Czech Prince Wenceslas was murdered in the
year 935 by his own brother. Not long after his death he
was declared a saint. On this day the Czechs celebrate
their patron saint and symbol of Czech statehood and
national identity.
Czechoslovak Independence Day (October 28)
A public holiday to mark the day Czechs and Slovaks
established their own state in 1918 – the most
important national holiday of the year.
Freedom and Democracy Day (November 17)
The day Czechs remember the student struggles of 1939
and 1989 against the Nazi and communist regimes.
Christmas (December 24, 25 and 26)
 17
ANNUAL EVENTS AND FESTIVALS

St. Matthew‘s Fair pay a registration fee, ranging from
Date: during February and March. CZK 500 to 1900.
St. Matthew‘s Fair (Matějská pouť)  www.runczech.com
marks the arrival of warm weather
and features fairground rides for Prague Spring International
children at Prague‘s exhibition Music Festival
grounds at Výstaviště. Date: 12th May-3rd June. This is
a famous series of classical music
Witches‘ Night and dance performances in church-
Date: 30 April. This festival marks es, palaces and concert halls, draw-
the end of winter and the new birth ing thousands of visitors every year.
of spring. Bonfires are lit to purge Enjoy first-class symphonies, oper-
the winter spirits. These festivals as and chamber music from talent-
are mostly found in the countryside ed artists. The celebrations begin
but can be seen at Petřín Hill in with a procession from Smetana‘s
Prague as well. grave in Vyšehrad to his namesake
concert hall in Municipal House.
Prague International Tickets can be obtained through the
Marathon official Prague Spring Box Office in
Date: April to May. The route runs the Rudolfinum, or from any branch
throughout the city, starting and of Ticketpro.
finishing in the historical centre,
right next to the famous Jewish Czech Beer Festival
Quarter. Join the other runners Is the largest gastronomic event in
from all around the world and af- the Czech Republic calls attention
ter the run ends be prepared for a to the wondrous varieties of Czech
great street party. The whole Volk- Beer in late May.
swagen Prague Marathon is 42km  www.ceskypivnifestival.cz
long (with a seven-hour limit) and
is held on 10 and 11th May, but United Islands of Prague
you can go for the shorter option, There are various venues across
which is the Hervis Prague Half the city throughout June. Expect
Marathon held on 5th April. This is beers stands and concerts on the
just 21km (with a three-hour limit). Vltava river front.
For the marathon run you have to  www.unitedislands.cz
18
ANNUAL EVENTS AND FESTIVALS

Dance Prague St. Nicholas‘ Eve
In June you should not miss the in- Date: 5 December. People wander
ternational festival of contemporary around the streets in groups of
dance and movement theatre – three dressed as St. Nicholas, an
Tanec Praha. This festival is now one angel and a devil, symbolising con-
of the most successful in Prague. fession, reward and punishment.
On this day grown men stick to the
Verdi Festival hobby of beer drinking.
In late August come to see this 10-
day festival featuring Italian operas Christmas market
at the State Opera House. The fes- on Old Town Square
tival provides a chance to see very During December a giant Christ-
good productions outside the main mas tree lights up the centre
opera season. of the square, while the space
around it is crammed with mar-
International Jazz Festival ket stalls selling carved wooden
This commences in the last week of toys, ceramics, glass figurines,
October (this festival has a tradition Christmas gifts, delicious gin-
of more than 30 years). If you like gerbread cakes, barbecued sau-
jazz, you should definitely not miss sages and mulled wine. Enter-
this festival, especially as you can tainment is provided by street
see performances by jazz legends performers. Even if you are not
from all around the world, with there to do shopping you can en-
plenty of local stars in between. joy watching the street perform-
The festival is held in several ven- ers and indulge yourself in the
ues across Prague but mostly at Christmas atmosphere.
Lucerna Music Bar.
 www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz New Year’s Eve
On 31 December head for spec-
Velvet Revolution Anniversary tacular fireworks and a mel-
17th November is a day which lower pace at Prague Castle or
changed the lives of all Czechs. Vyšehrad. For great festivities go
A commemoration and wreath to Old Town Square where live
laying ceremony is conducted on big screening and other perfor-
Wenceslas Square. mances are held.
 19
ACTIVITIES

Sightseeing
20 Boat under the Charles Bridge
Prague is bursting at the seams with
things to do. Whether you choose the
city‘s rich musical heritage or simply en-
joy a pint of Pilsner in one of its legendary
beer cellars, this is the city where there
really is something for everyone.
Most visitors just enjoy relaxed strolling
while discovering nice views, historic
buildings, religious icons and galleries.
For those who do not wish to get lost in
the city’s maze of small streets and lanes
there are plenty of walking tours to choose
from. Some tours covering the general
history of the city with others focused on
specific themes – the history of the Jew-
ish community, the architectural styles or
more bizarre ghost legends. You can also
join our free 4-hour walking tour or book
your own personal guide.
If the idea of walking does not appeal to
you, you can always blend culture with
comfort by taking a ride through Prague
instead. Horse-drawn carriages carry you
at a gentle pace through the cobblestone
streets of Old Town. Or you can opt for a
ride in a vintage car – open-top, weather
permitting – or a hop on hop off sightsee-
ing bus. Most tours starts either from Old
Town Square or from Na Příkopě near
Republic Square. Riverboats are another
option for seeing the city from a different
angle – there are choices of a lunch cruise,
a quick one-hour cruise, an evening cruise
with dinner or a cruise with a live jazz band.
 21
ACTIVITIES

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Prague in One Day famous Café Slavia, on Smetanovo
If you have only one day to ex- Embankment, where you can have
plore Prague, then concentrate a coffee while enjoying the view
on the Castle District and Lesser across the river and up to the castle
Town, ending your walk in the he- on the other side.
art of Old Town. Once you get to After the rest, continue walking to
the Prague Castle complex, visit Old Town Square to see the Astrono-
the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral and mical Clock and watch ‘The Walk of
St. George‘s Basilica, and stop at the Apostles‘ performing on the hour.
the small picturesque houses in From there continue your walk to-
Golden Lane. Then, descend into wards Celetná Street where you
Lesser Town where you‘ll find the can see quite a few architecturally
ancient burgher houses and the Ba- and historically important houses,
roque copper-domed St. Nicholas’ such as at the Three Kings, the
Church. Making your way across White Lion, the Black Sun and the
Charles Bridge can take as little Black Madonna.
or as much time as you like, if you The most interesting one worth a
enjoy souvenir stands, performers, visit is the House of the Black Ma-
artists, musicians, or just beautiful donna, which dates back to 1912.
city views, you may want to linger A multifunctional building, it houses
a while longer. shops on the ground floor, and offi-
If you want to feel even more of ces, flats and the legendary Orient
the romantic atmosphere of the coffee bar with its cubist furniture
city, you might wish to jump on on the higher levels. Celetná Street
the Venice Boat Cruise. During this will lead you to the Powder Tower.
short 40-minute boat cruise you Next to the tower is the Municipal
will have a chance to see Prague‘s House – Prague‘s most prominent
architectural gems from the River Art Nouveau building, built between
Vltava. The boat departure pier is 1906 and 1912. This is a popular
just under Charles Bridge, acces- attraction for visitors, who are lured
sible from Čertovka, Kampa Island. in by the building‘s gold trimmings,
Once across the bridge, walk along stained glass, sculptures, and the
the riverside and take a break at the regular exhibitions and concerts.
22
ACTIVITIES

Prague in Two Days
On the first day walk to Old Town
Square, view the ‘must see’ Astro-
nomical Clock and visit the beau-
tiful Gothic Church of Our Lady
Before Týn or the baroque St. Ni-
cholas’ Church. From there, head
to Charles Bridge via Karlova Street
to take some beautiful photos.
Next head to Nerudova Street and
climb up to the imposing Prague
Castle, where St. Vitus Cathedral,
Golden Lane and the Royal Garden
await. If you are tired of walking,
you might like to take tram no. 22
up the hill and approach the cast-
le from the other side. Once you
have explored the castle complex n Powder Tower (Prašná brána)
make your way back downhill to
Malostranské Square where you Square. Later continue via Na Pří-
can have a traditional Czech meal kopě to the Art Nouveau gem of
at one of the numerous pubs and Municipal House. Stopping there ei-
restaurants or just a less traditional ther for a short tour of the building
Starbucks coffee. interiors or simply a coffee is well
The second day is good for ‘laid worth it. If you are still up for more
back’ exploring or a leisurely walk shopping, continue to the modern
along the river and around Old Palladium Shopping Centre, situa-
Town. From Old Town Square, walk ted just a few minutes’ walk away
to the Jewish Quarter of Josefov on Republic Square. And finally in
and visit the Jewish Museum si- the evening you could have a few
tes. For your lunch avoid Old Town pints of world famous Czech beer at
Square and instead discover some some local pubs to relax after your
eateries down the tiny side streets. busy day of walking, or if you are
In the afternoon, do some shopping into classical music, attend a con-
or just wander around Wenceslas cert at the Rudolfinum.
 23
ACTIVITIES

Prague in Three Days
For the first two days, follow our
two-day itinerary. And on your last
day in the morning, either:
• take a half-day trip to the medieval
town of Kutná Hora or tour the Tere-
zín holocaust memorial
• visit some of the National Galle-
ry exhibitions located at different
sites around Prague, highly recom-
mended is St. Agnes Gallery in the
Jewish Quarter where you can see
a permanent exhibition of Medieval n The Petřín Funicular
and early Renaissance art
In the afternoon, have lunch in one
of Lesser Town’s restaurants and
then take the funicular railway up
to Petřín Hill. It is an excellent place
for a relaxing walk in the peaceful
gardens with great views over the
city – and for even more spectacular
views, don‘t forget to visit Petřín Ob- n Vrtba Garden – situated on the slope
servation Tower. If you are energetic of Petřín Hill
enough, continue walking from Pet-
řín Hill to Pohořelec (Hradčany) and
visit Strahov Monastery. From there
you can take the scenic tram num-
ber 22 back to the city.
In the evening you could visit some
of the nice jazz clubs in Lesser
Town, like U Malého Glena. If jazz
is not to your liking, do the night n Golden Lane (Prague Castle)
Dinner on The River Cruise, passing
famous sights – all the while enjoy- Alternatively New Town is full of
ing dinner and live music on board. nightlife options to suit every taste.
24
ACTIVITIES

Prague in One Week
One week will give you more time
to soak up the city atmosphere.
Cover the sights mentioned in the
three-day itinerary and then add
in visits to numerous museums
and galleries, plus a day trip to
Kutná Hora, Český Krumlov or to n Baroque Chateau in Trója
to the Pilsner Brewery. If you are
still thinking of how to fill one of
your afternoons, visit the pret-
ty green grounds of Vyšehrad or
Trója Chateau.
The Prague Zoo with more than
4100 animals is also good choice
for sunny afternoon. n Konopiště Chateau

n Rent a row boat n Čertovka (Devil‘s Stream)
 25
ACTIVITIES

POPULAR ACTIVITIES

n Historic tram no. 91

During the summer months take a Mozart‘s Don Giovanni in 1787 and
tram trip on Prague’s historic tram this opera can still be seen here today
91, which can be great fun too. or alternately performed by puppets
The National Theatre, Lesser Town at the National Marionette Theatre.
Square and Wenceslas Square are Even if you’re not a classical music
all boarding points. Alternatively enthusiastic, slip in through the side
board tram 22 from the National door into one of Prague‘s hidden
Theatre stop and take ride up to churches and cloisters, which are
Prague Castle, passing through often used for musical concerts, and
Lesser Town and past other sights. therefore rehearsals. Once inside pay
Other popular activity is to attend a your respects and if possible, stay for
performance at the Estates Theatre the angelic acoustics.
or see the puppets at the National On the River Vltava, you can get an
Marionette Theatre. The Estates interesting new perspective and
Theatre hosted the premiere of have family fun by renting a rowing
26
ACTIVITIES

boat. You will find boat rentals open shops like Marks & Spencer, Marl-
every day from April to the end of boro Classics, Kookai, Calvin Klein
October, under Charles Bridge, di- and Next, to name but a few.
rectly across from Club Lávka, or on
Slovanský Island. The Best Place for a View
A must for every traveller to Prague over the City
is a visit to some of traditional Czech Prague is a city of red rooftops,
pubs where guests sit at plain woo- towers, and golden spires, of woo-
den tables and wait to be served glas- ded hills and amazing views. Every
ses of the frothy Pilsner Urquell lager. visitor who climbs the steps to the
For more adventurous types, also try castle is rewarded with a great
the popular local spirit Becherovka. view over the city. But if you want
Visit some of the numerous shop- to escape the crowds, there are
ping centres in the city centre. Pal- other lofty vantage points, including
ladium and Myslbek are probably Vyšehrad, Petřín Hill Tower, Letná
the most lavish and well-stocked in Park, Žižkov TV tower, Old Town Hall
Prague. They have a good range of Tower and St. Henry‘s Tower.

n Prague Little Venice Cruise
 27
ACTIVITIES

ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN
There are many places which allow children with parents to enjoy Prague
at its best. One of the most popular choices for family fun is definitely Troja
Zoo (second best zoo in Europe, according to TripAdvisor) or Sea World in
Výstaviště with giant fish tanks. For couples and children alike one tip is to
take the funicular railway up Petřín Hill and then visit the Hall of Mirrors.

Puppet Show
The Don Giovanni Marionette Opera
can be seen at National Marionette
Theatre in Žatecká 1, Josefov. Tall
marionettes as well as the stylish
period costumes and original stage
effects can be seen during this two-
-hour (8pm - 10pm) performance.
It is presented in the original Italian
librette.
n National Technical Museum
Výstaviště Exhibition Grounds planes and automobiles. Among the
The expansive Exhibition Grounds many exhibits here are examples
include a traditional funfair, Sea of Czech engineering at its best –
world aquarium, a swimming pool Škoda for example was one of the
and a planetarium, which presents foremost engineering companies
several shows daily. in Europe before WWII. Additionally,
there is a large display of film and
National Technical Museum photographic equipment, while the
If you are put off by the rather unin- mining technology exhibit recreates
spiring name, then don‘t be, as a the workings of a coal mine in the
visit to Prague‘s Technical Museum museum‘s basement.
is a rewarding experience. Without  Kostelní 42, Prague 7, Holešovice
doubt, the most impressive displa-  9am-5:30pm Tue-Fri,
ys are found in the large Transport Sat&Sun 10am-6pm
Hall, crammed full of vintage trains, Adult/child CZK 190/90
28
ACTIVITIES

Pedalos to walk through both shady groves
The River Vltava is the perfect place and open, grassy plains. There is
to spend an hour or two on a pedalo an ever-growing number of enc-
with the kids. If the weather is nice losures that blend with the natural
you will have a great time, pedaling landscape. To make your trip to the
under the bridges and exploring the zoo more pleasant, a popular series
river. You can rent pedalos at Char- of commentated feedings and trai-
les Bridge, Mánesův Bridge and ning exercises are prepared for the
Slovanský Island. weekends, along with many other
interesting programmes. There is
Toy Museum also a small chair lift that will, no
This cute little place is close to doubt, be entertaining for children.
Golden Lane with lots of antique  U Trojského zámku 3/120, Trója
trains, teddy bears and dolls, com- How to get there: take bus no. 112 from
plete with English-language signs the Nádraží Holešovice underground
on most of them. Although there station and get off at Zoologická zahrada,
are not many things children are the last stop. In the summer months,
allowed to touch, there are plenty Prague Steamboat Company operates a
of mysterious mechanical objects, boat which serves the zoological garden.
such as musical boxes and steam- Boats sail hourly every day from
-powered toys, for the kids to spe- Na Františku quay.
culate about. There is a Barbie ex-  Daily 9am-7pm in summer and until
hibit on the second floor, which is 4pm in winter months
rather interesting.
 Prague Castle complex Aquapalace
 Daily from 9:30am-5:30pm Touted as ‘the largest water park in
Adult/child/family CZK 70/30/120 central Europe’, the facility features
saunas, a spa complex, and a fitness
Prague Zoo centre, along with a variety of pools
For nature and animals lovers Pra- and nine water slides. It’s an attrac-
gue Zoo is the perfect place to vi- tive destination for families looking
sit. The zoo is open all year round for some summer fun.
and is located in the picturesque  Bus from Prague-Opatov to Čestlice;
environment of the Troja Basin. Its distance: 8 km south of Prague
diverse terrain makes it possible  www.aquapalace.cz
 29
TRANSPORTATION

Modern
30 tram near Jindřišská Tower
Getting Around
Prague is a simple city to get around, es-
pecially in the centre, which is relatively
small and compact. The best way is to
take trams or just walk. Be careful when
crossing the roads at pelican crossings
as some drivers tend to ignore crossings
without traffic lights. Also trams travel
quite fast and may come upon you with
little warning.

Prague Public Transport
Most tourist attractions and sights are
in a convenient location within the city
and are best reached on foot or by us-
ing the cheap public transport such as
the metro, trams and buses. Prague‘s
transport system is very well developed,
efficient and accessible, and very popu-
lar with tourists. Compared to other EU
countries, public transport in Prague is
quite cheap.
For more information about public trans-
port, go to www.dpp.cz or visit the infor-
mation desks located at the airport and at
selected metro stations: Muzeum (lines
A and C), Můstek (lines A and B), Anděl
(line B), Nadraží Holešovice (line C), Černý
Most (line B). There you can buy tickets
and travel passes, and get useful multi-
lingual guides and maps to the whole
transport system. Bus and tram timetables
are posted at every station and stop so you
know what time to expect their arrival.
 31
TRANSPORTATION

Prague Airport Getting to The City
Václav Havel Prague Airport is lo- If you do not have a lot of luggage,
cated 17km from the city centre take bus no. 119 from the airport to
and has all the modern amenities Veleslavín Metro station. From there,
you would expect of a European take the main A-line into the city
airport. The journey from the air- centre. There are also other buses
port to the city centre takes around (100, 254 and 179) but the 119 is
25 – 30 minutes by taxi, or around the most convenient.
50 minutes by public transport. Just outside the terminal buildings
UK and other non-Schengen-zone you can get yellow metered taxis.
flights arrive and depart from Ter- The price to the city should be around
minal 1, and flights from Schen- CZK 650, depending on the exact dis-
gen-zone countries from Terminal 2 tance and traffic. Due to the common
(without passport control). taxi overcharging phenomenon, we
In the arrivals area you will find recommend using our cheap airport
the Prague Tourist desk and other shuttle or private taxi transfer with
kiosks where you can arrange fixed prices. Simply pre-book online
a rental car, exchange money, buy and travel with peace of mind.
public transport tickets or book
a hotel. Prague Metro
It is best not to exchange money at The metro is formed by three lines:
the airport, as either the commis- A, B, and C. The metro lines are
sion is quite high or the exchange colour-coded and the operates from
rate is not very favourable. Instead, 5am to midnight. The green line (line
wait until you arrive in the city or A) connects Depot Hostivař and Mo-
obtain Czech crowns from the tol. The yellow line (line B) connects
cashpoint. Černý Most and Zličín and the red
When you are leaving Prague, you line (line C) connects Letňany and
may want to eat before you head to Háje. There are three line-crossing
the airport, as most restaurants at stations: Muzeum (lines A and C),
the airport are generally overpriced, Můstek (lines B and A) and Florenc
but a few cheap fast food chains (lines C and B). The time intervals
can be found in the public areas are approximately two to three min-
at arrivals between Terminal 1 and utes at rush hour and four to ten
Terminal 2. minutes during off-peak times.
32
TRANSPORTATION

Prague Trams Historic tram 91
Trams are a convenient way of get- Nostalgic tram 91 runs at week-
ting around and compared to the ends and holidays from the end of
metro, you will have the chance to March through to mid-November.
see much more. The tram routes are The tram leaves from Střešovice
well structured and organised cov- every hour from 12 noon till 6pm
ering a large area of the city. Daytime and continues through the city cen-
trams run from 4:30am till midnight tre. Tickets cost CZK 35 for adults,
at eight-to-ten-minute intervals CZK 20 for children and seniors
(8 to 15 minutes at weekends). over 70 years old.
Night trams (numbers 51-58) run
from 12:30am until 4:30am in City Buses
30-to-40-minute intervals. The cen- Buses mostly cover the outskirts of
tral interchange tram stop of night Prague, especially areas not cov-
trams is Lazarská stop. ered by the tram system. Daytime
buses run from 4.30am till midnight
Tram 22 in six-to-eight-minute intervals dur-
Follow one of Prague‘s most scenic ing peak hours, 10-to-20 minute
routes, passing by the National The- intervals during off-peak times, and
atre to Malostranská metro station, 15-to-30-minute intervals at week-
and continuing up to the Belvedér, ends. Night buses (numbers 501-
Prague Castle and Pohořelec, with 512) run from 12:30am till 4:30am
some stunning views on the way. in 40-minute intervals.

Tram 9 Taxis
This useful tram route runs across Taxi services in Prague might be
the city through Wenceslas Square, tricky, especially if you hail a taxi
continues on to Lesser Town, then off the street, so it is good idea
to Anděl (in Smíchov) and further. negotiate your fare in advance or
get an estimate. If you are going
Route 17 to or from the airport, train or bus
This route follows the river bank from station pre-book a taxi with Prague
Vyšehrad, passing New Town (Nation- Airport Transfers. Maximum prices:
al Theatre), Old Town (Staroměstská), CZK/km 28, CZK 6 waiting fee per
and Jewish Town to the Letná Park. minute, boarding fee CZK 40.
 33
TRANSPORTATION

MAP – METRO, TRAMS AND TRAINS OF PRAGUE
When a tram pulls up to a stop, two different names are announced: the name of the stop you
are currently at, and then the name of the stop that‘s coming up next. Confused visitors, wonde-
ring whether they‘ve heard their stop, are notorious for hurrying off the tram one stop too early.

Prague
Castle

Old
Sq Tow
ua n
re
Charles
When using public transport you FR Funicular FR
Bridge

railway
are expected to give up your seat
for the elderly and disabled.

34
TRANSPORTATION

INTEGRATED TRANSPORT SYSTEM

 35
TRANSPORTATION

Public Transport Fares tram to bus, etc.) for up to 30 min-
The Prague public transport system utes from validation for short-ride
uses two types of tickets – 30-min- tickets, and up to 90 minutes for
ute and 90-minute tickets and long-ride tickets. Tickets are also
travel passes. Passengers have to valid on night trams and buses and
obtain their tickets before board- on the Petřín funicular railway.
ing a tram or bus, or entering the
metro. It is possible to get a ticket 30-minute ticket (short rides)
directly from the bus driver, but you Adults: CZK 24
will have to pay an extra charge. Children 6-15 years: CZK 12
Tickets can be bought from ticket 90-minute ticket (long rides)
machines (which give instructions Adults: CZK 32
in English and supply change) at Children 6-15 years: CZK 16
all metro stations and newsagents.
A ticket must be validated (punched) Free transport
at the entrance to the metro station Children under 6 years
and on the tram/bus to mark the start Seniors 70 years and over
of the validation period. Plain-clothed
inspectors frequently check tickets For children aged 10 years and over,
and will issue an on-the-spot fine you are required to carry proof of the
of CZK 800 to anyone caught with- child‘s age, with an identification
out a valid ticket or pass, controllers card containing the child’s name,
should show you their ID (a small surname, date of birth and photo-
metal disc) and give you a receipt. graph verified by the passport issuer.
Tourists are well known targets, as
many tourists do not know the fact Short-term passes (unlimited
that they have to validate a ticket. A travel within ticket validity)
few may demand a higher fine from Most visitors find travel passes cost
foreigners and pocket the difference, effective and hassle free. If you will
so insist on a receipt before paying. use public transport more than a few
Public transport tickets can be used times a day, definitely go for one.
on any type of public transport, and
allow transfers between lines (met- 24-hour pass: CZK 110
ro to metro, tram to tram, etc.) and 3-day pass (72 hrs):CZK 310
types of transport (metro to tram,
36
TRANSPORTATION

Main Train Station for destinations within the Czech Re-
Prague’s main train station is locat- public and for selected destinations
ed in the city centre on Wilsonova in the EU. You can also buy them
near Wenceslas Square. The station from any train station in Prague or
was recently fully renovated and elsewhere in the Czech Republic.
modernised by the Italian Grandi At Prague’s main train station, the
Stazioni company to western stand- ticket counters are on the base-
ards from its former ‘dirty’ image of ment level. Most locals do not
a shadowy part of Prague. The sta- make advanced reservations, and
tion serves international trains from tickets are generally available to all
all countries, in particular trains destinations right up until the day
on the east-west route stop here of travel. If you are in a hurry, it is
(trains from Vienna and Munich, also possible to buy a ticket from
etc.). It is the largest railway station the conductor, but be prepared for
in Prague and has been operating an extra charge.
here since 1871. Getting to the sta-
tion is easy, the station is on the Main Bus Station
metro (line C), and is just one stop Most international connections ter-
from the top of Wenceslas Square. minate in Prague at Florenc station,
It is not recommended to take any located on the metro (lines B and
of those taxi cabs hanging around C). The main bus station serves all
the train station, as you will very international and long distance do-
likely be charged an inflated fare. mestic routes. From here, you can
There are fast food restaurants, cof- get to the city centre by metro line
fee shops, bookshops, currency ex- B in about 5 minutes.
change offices (might charge com- If you are travelling outside of
mission of up to 10%), cashpoints, Prague, a bus might be quite a good
luggage storage services (provided option, as they are usually cheaper
by coin-operated lockers), and a than travelling by train. Most serv-
guarded luggage depository. ices are operated by ČSAD and Stu-
dent Agency.
Reservation and Tickets You can buy your tickets in advance,
It is possible to purchase tickets on- although most operators also allow
line at the Czech Railways website you to purchase directly from the
(www.cd.cz) 60 days prior to travel driver.
 37
TRANSPORTATION

n Vintage Tour in Lesser Town

Vintage Car Tours Most tours depart as you come, or
Do you want to feel as if you are in for whenever you arrange it. Trips
the 1920s? In Prague, nothing is ea- last from 30 minutes up to one hour.
sier. For about CZK 900 you can hire
an antique car that best suits your Horse and Carriage Trips
taste and go on a trip around the his- Romantic horse-drawn carriages
torical centre of the city. The inter- can be seen in the historical centre
war dream might be blown away by of Prague all year round. For about
the seemingly never-ending queues CZK 800 per carriage, which can
at the traffic lights, but if you can let take up to four people, you can go
yourself ignore the mass of tourists for a ride around the most beautiful
around, you just might have a great streets of the Old Town. You will find
time. This exquisite car rental can be the carriages waiting for you in Old
found close to Old Town Square, on Town Square, next to the Old Town
the Royal Route to Prague Castle. Hall and the Astronomical Clock.
38
TRANSPORTATION

n Prague is a very popular destination for its beauty but is also famous thanks to the
city dishonest taxi drivers operating there, famous for ripping off anyone who looks
like a tourist. It is preferable not to use taxis parked in front of railway stations or
tourist areas close to the Wenceslas Square, Old Town Square etc

n Prague Metro
 39
TRANSPORTATION

Intercity Transfers
We offer transfers to / from any
city or town in the Czech Republic
and neighboring countries. The ra- FAQ
tes we offer are likely to be much Can we stop for a quick lunch or
cheaper than when using a normal break along the way? Yes, we are
taxi, or for larger groups, similar to quite happy to stop along the way
train ticket prices. However, unlike at no extra charge. If you require
travelling by train or bus, with us a longer stop – over 15 minutes –
you can break the journey with a we might charge a waiting fee.
few hours‘ visit to an interesting What are the advantages of
place en route. There will be just using your transfers compared
a small waiting charge. Also, for to travelling by train or bus? Our
an extra charge, we can arrange transfers are provided with new
a professional guide. and comfortable vehicles, and the
travel time is significantly shorter.
Free Minivan Upgrade
There are no other stops on the
With us, we will accommodate
way, unless you ask us to do so
groups of up to four passengers and
(for lunch or toilet). If you travel by
your luggage in a bigger vehicle for
train or bus you will also have to
no extra charge. When booking sim-
add costs for getting to and from
ply request “Minivan free upgrade”.
the station at both destinations,
Waiting Fee Charge whereas our transfers are door-to-
If you require waiting or a multi-stop -door and all-inclusive.
transfer, for example you go to one What is the fastest means of tra-
city where we wait for you and then vel between Prague and other de-
you continue on to somewhere else, stinations? Except for flying (where
we will add a waiting charge to your you must add time for getting to/
fare. Our waiting charges are as fo- from the airport and checking-in
llows: 1-4 people: CZK 220 per hour; time) our private transfers are the
5-8 people: CZK 260 per hour. quickest way of getting around.

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

40
TRANSPORTATION

Prague to Berlin
On the way to / from Berlin you
might choose to stop in Dresden
(„Florence on the Elbe“) for a short Prague to Budapest
visit to this beautiful city, perhaps Transfers from Prague to Bu-
having lunch and visiting Zwinger dapest can be combined with a
Palace and the Church of Our Lady. recommended visit to Vienna or
Bratislava, which lie on the way.
Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax) You can choose either to travel
CZK 6 408 (€ 246) via Vienna or Bratislava, and stop
Minivan (max. 8 pax) there for a short visit to the city or
CZK 8 010 (€ 308) just a lunch etc.

Prague to Vienna Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax)
If you wish to make your journey CZK 9 450 (€ 363)
from Vienna to Prague more interes- Minivan (max. 8 pax)
ting, why not stop on the way in Čes- CZK 11 813 (€ 454)
ký Krumlov. Travel time will be about
1.5 hours longer than the direct
route and an extra 100km will be 10% Off Minibus
travelled, but it is definitely worth it. Long-distance Transfers
If you travel with us between
Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax)
Prague and other EU cit-
CZK 5 958 (€ 229)
Minivan (max. 8 pax) ies like Vienna, Nuremberg,
CZK 7 448 (€ 298) Passau, and Krakow etc., we
offer 10% discount on such
transport if you book and pre-
pay a Superior Tour of Prague
or Dinner on the river cruise.

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

 41
TRANSPORTATION

Prague to Nuremberg Prague to Salzburg
Make a short stop at Plzen (Pilsen) on The beautiful city of Český Krumlov
the way from or to Nuremberg. We is a great place for a short stop on
recommend at least two hours for the way from or to Salzburg. We re-
the Plzen brewery tour, or one hour if commend at least two hours, or if
you wish just to stop in the city. you wish to tour the city or just stop
for lunch, allow at least one hour.
Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax)
CZK 5 238 (€ 202) Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax)
Minivan (max. 8 pax) CZK 6 768 (€ 260)
CZK 6 548 (€ 252) Minivan (max. 8 pax)
CZK 8 460 (€ 325)
Prague to Passau
Český Krumlov and České Budějovi- Prague to Krakow
ce are worth considering for a short Stop en route for a few hours for
stop on the way from or to Passau. a visit to Auschwitz (German Nazi
If you decide to visit either or both of Concentration and Extermination
those cities, we recommend at least Camp) and continue your journey
two hours for Český Krumlov and to Krakow. Allow at least two
one hour for České Budějovice, or hours for your visit.
possibly one hour in Hluboká castle.
Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax)
Sedan/Minivan (max. 4 pax) CZK 9 720 (€ 374)
CZK 3 942 (€ 152) Minivan (max. 8 pax)
Minivan (max. 8 pax) CZK 12 150 (€ 467)
CZK 4 928 (€ 190)

Get 11% off any shared tour
or private tour when booking
an airport transfer with us.

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

42
EXCURSIONS AND TRANSFERS
1 Terezín, 63km, 50min
www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk 2 Lidice, 26km, 35min
3 Kutná Hora, 71km, 1hr 15min
Dresden C 4 Karlovy Vary, 127km, 1hr 50min
B Krakow
5 Plzeň, 92km, 1hr 05min
6 Konopiště, 47km, 35min
Terezín 7 Karlštejn, 41km, 45min
Mladá Boleslav
1
9 8 Křivoklát, 55km, 55min
Karlovy Vary 9 Mladá Boleslav, 66km, 50min
4 Lidice
2 10 Český Krumlov, 179km, 2hr 40min
Mariánské Lázně Křivoklát 8
PRAGUE
14
11 České Budějovice, 156km,
2hr 10min
7 3 Kutná Hora
Karlštejn 12 Jindřichův Hradec, 153km,
Plzeň 5 6 Konopiště
1hr 45min
A 15 13 Hluboká, 148km, 2hr 5min
Olomouc
Nuremberg 14 Mariánské Lázně, 170km,
1hr 55min
16 15 Olomouc, 281km, 2hr 40min
12 Jindřichův Hradec
Brno 16 Brno, 206km, 1hr 50min
Hluboká 13
České Budějovice
Český 11 * Times and estimated distan-
Krumlov
10 ces are for one-way transfers


D from/to Prague’s city centre.
Passau

A Nuremberg, 291km, 2hr 50min D Passau, 218km, 3hr 05min E Vienna
F

43
TRANSPORTATION

B Dresden, 149km, 1hr 50min E Vienna, 344km, 3hr 40min Budapest
C Krakow, 550km, 5hr 30min F Budapest, 525km, 4hr 45min
TRANSPORTATION

EXCURSIONS & TRANSFERS TO OTHER CITIES

TRANSFER FROM/TO ONE WAY ONE WAY MORE THAN
1 to 4 5 to 8 9
PRAGUE CITY CENTRE passengers passengers passengers

Berlin CZK 6 408 CZK 8 010 ASK US
Bratislava CZK 5 904 CZK 7 380 ASK US
Brno CZK 3 708 CZK 4 635 ASK US
Budapest CZK 9 450 CZK 11 813 ASK US
Český Krumlov CZK 3 520 CZK 4 400 ASK US
Dresden CZK 3 000 CZK 3 750 ASK US
Frankfurt CZK 9 270 CZK 11 588 ASK US
Hradec Kralové CZK 2 360 CZK 2 950 ASK US
Jelenia Gora CZK 3 420 CZK 4 275 ASK US
Karlovy Vary CZK 2 540 CZK 3 175 ASK US
Krakow CZK 9 720 CZK 12 150 ASK US
Liberec CZK 2 280 CZK 2 850 ASK US
Linz CZK 4 392 CZK 5 490 ASK US
Mariánské Lázně CZK 3 400 CZK 4 250 ASK US
Mladá Boleslav CZK 1 400 CZK 1 750 ASK US
Nuremberg CZK 5 238 CZK 6 548 ASK US
Passau CZK 3 942 CZK 4 928 ASK US
Plzeň CZK 1 840 CZK 2 300 ASK US
Salzburg CZK 6 768 CZK 8 460 ASK US
Vienna CZK 5 958 CZK 7 448 ASK US
Warsaw CZK 12 384 CZK 15 480 ASK US
OTHER CITIES ASK US ASK US ASK US

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

44
TRANSPORTATION

Prague Taxi Services
Our professional, English-speaking drivers have an excellent knowledge
of the city and will pick you up straight from your hotel (or any other
location you choose) and take you wherever you need to go.
Sedan vehicle Mercedes E class Minivan vehicle
Taxi Zones 1 - 4 group 1 - 4 group 1 - 8 group
CITY ZONE CZK 25 per km CZK 28 per km CZK 28 per km
ZONE AIRPORT CZK 550 (€ 21) CZK 685 (€ 25.5) CZK 780 (€ 21)
ZONE TRAIN STATION CZK 390 (€ 14.5) CZK 550 (€ 21) CZK 550 (€ 21)
Sedan vehicle Minivan vehicle
(max. 4 passengers) (max. 8 passengers)
Vehicle range: Škoda Superb; Vehicle range: Mercedes Vito/
VW Passat Viano; VW Transporter/Caravelle
Price per KM: CZK 25 Price per KM: CZK 28
Minimum charge: CZK 250 Minimum charge: CZK 300
Waiting fee: CZK 220 per hour Waiting fee: CZK 280 per hour
*There is a minimum charge per trip. If your fare calculation based on the km is lower than this amount
you still be charged our minimum charge. We offer fixed prices only – no taxi metres.
**There is no traffic waiting fee. If your vehicle is stuck in a traffic jam we do not charge extra. But if you
require waiting at your request we do charge a waiting fee per hour (charged per each 15-minute interval).

Book online at www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk

 45
SHOPPING

Lucerna
46 Passage with an upside down version of St. Wenceslas and his horse
Most shopping centres and arcades are
located in the centre of Prague on Wenc-
eslas Square, in the streets of Na Příkopě,
28. října, Národní, Vinohradská (above the
National Museum), Pařížská and on or in the
vicinity of Old Town Square. There you can
find pretty much everything, from clothes,
electronics and music to glass and antiques.
Close to the tourist attractions there are
many shops selling souvenirs, t-shirts with
‘Franz Kafka‘ on them, Mucha merchandise,
Russian dolls, puppets and Czech porcelain
and glass. Those who are looking for more
unusual shopping should head down the hid-
den passages to the arcades and backstreet
shops of Lesser Town and Old Town. In these
little shops can be found many bargains and
curious and interesting things.
Non-EU residents exporting goods to anoth-
er non-EU country are entitled to tax back; just
look for the blue TAX FREE sticker in stores.
Beginning late in August, always attend
the summer sales. January to mid-February
is the optimal time to stock up on pants, jack-
ets and sweaters and other warmer clothing
for a fraction of their usual prices. Fall fashion
starts following the sales in the summer; the
fun colour and radiant florals of spring-time
arrive in February, and the summer items are
found in stores once Easter is over.
Best buys or recommended items to look
for in Prague include Bohemian glass, crys-
tal and china, ceramics, wooden toys and
local handicrafts.
 47
SHOPPING

WHAT SOUVENIR TO BUY? Square, Na Příkopě and Celetná and
The Karlova street connecting the close to the Charles Bridge. The two top
Old Town Square with the Charles producers are Moser and Egermann.
Bridge is the busiest road in Prague,
and is heavily frequented by tourists. Moser
It is packed with similar shops sell- This is a very well known and respec-
ing identical items and it pays to be ted Bohemian glassmaker. Moser was
cautious. The same can be said about founded in Karlovy Vary in 1857 and
Celetná, linking Old Town Square with is famous for its rich and flamboyant
Powder Gate and Municipal House. designs. Visit their shop on Na Příkopě
If you want to take traditional Czech located at the House of the Black Rose.
items home with you, then you ought  Na Příkopě 12, New Town
to shop away from this area. Although  Daily 10am-8pm
the large quantity of crystal, garnets  www.moser-glass.com
and glassware being sold are authen-
tically Czech, and some shops, like Erpet
Moser, are also genuine, you should A wide range of top-notch crystal
definitely avoid the shops which sell from a variety of manufacturers.
Slavic items, unless you wish to ac-  Old Town Square 27
quire some colourful nesting dolls  10am-11pm
from Russia, or some Communist-  www.erpetcrystal.cz
style furry hats. In fact, a wide array of
dubious items are available, as most Art Décoratif
of the other stores sell inexpensive This is a stunning shop and sells
goods from China, which just have the best jewellery, lamps and fur-
Prague logos stuck to them. niture in the whole of Prague, most
of which is in the Secessionist style.
Czech Crystal, Glass,  U Obecního domu 2, New Town
Porcelain and Ceramics  10am-8pm every day
Bohemian glass is famous the world  www.artdecoratif.cz
over for its uniqueness and quality.
You’ll find a lot of Bohemian glass, chi- Most shops and shopping
na and crystal shops spread all around malls are open on Sunday as
the city centre. The most popular place well. Big shopping malls close
to start looking is around Wenceslas at 8pm or 10pm.
48
SHOPPING

n Czech Glass

Artěl Beads and Jewellery Imitations
Artěl is no ordinary luxury crys- Beads have been made in the
tal company; they present a Jablonec area since the 16th cen-
striking collection that flaunts tury, and sold under the Jablonex
hand-crafted finesse, in subtle, brand to more than 80 countries for
sophisticated rainbow hues, bold the past 50 years.
graphic design and contempo-
rary shapes. Belda Jewellery
 U lužického semináře 7 A showroom of a family run firm cur-
 Daily 10am – 7pm rently making modern pieces following
 www.artelglass.com their own desings and in cooperation
with other contemporary designers
Czech Classical Music as well as high-quality reproductions
Classical CDs abound of the works and new jewellery from designs by the
of Czech composers, like Dvořák, 19th century artist Alfons Mucha.
Smetana, Martinů and Janáček,  Mikulandská 10, Prague 1
as well as those of folk music and  11am-6pm Mon-Fri
brass bands.  www.belda.cz
 49
SHOPPING

Czech Garnet  Dlouhá 28-30, Old Town
The blood-red garnet is the official  10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat until 1pm
Czech national gem, a popular ur-  www.granat.eu
ban accessory, and is considered the
best tourist purchase if you are jew-
ellery-shopping in Prague. Garnets
aren’t necessarily deep red. There
are at least five specific kinds; some
are almost transparent and others
are black, while the scarce green
garnet is much sought-after. Accord-
n Czech marionettes
ing to Czech legends the gemstone
consistently wields its mystical pow- Czech marionettes
ers to replace sadness with joy. In Prague, a city offering operas fea-
Most garnets are mined near the turing traditional Czech marionettes,
small town of Teplice, situated these puppets make a great gift.
about 63km northwest of Prague. You may know someone who would
Garnets are produced by a single fancy one of these eerie, but unar-
company – Granat Turnov (the only guably artistic creations.
company authorized to mine Czech
garnets) – which has branches Absinthe
in Dlouhá and Panská street, and You do not have to be absolutely
many resellers. insane to like absinthe, but the po-
tent, chemistry-lab green spirit is
Granát Turnov 70% alcohol.
Part of the country’s biggest jewelle-
ry chain, specialising in Bohemian Havel Market
garnet, with a huge range of gold and Dating back to 1232, this market has
silver rings, brooches, cufflinks and seen many changes over the centuries.
necklaces, all featuring the small, What began as only a produce market
dark blood-red stones. There is also is beginning to get back to its roots as
pearl and diamond jewellery and less the produce stands now outnumber
expensive pieces set with the dark the souvenir stalls. The market is lo-
green semi-precious stone known in cated off of Melantrichova Street near
Czech as vltavín (moldavite). Můstek. Open daily 7am-6pm.
50
SHOPPING

Manufaktura Timoure et Group
This shop offers original hand- Tailor-made coats, suits, trousers,
crafts, wooden toys and hand- jackets and sweaters.
made skin care items. Their home  V Kolkovně 6 and Martinská 4, Old Town
woven linens are genuine. They  www.timoure.cz
have plenty of locations around
Prague, but its major one is Me- Klara Nademlynska Boutique
lantrichova 17. Boutique of one of the most famous
 Daily 10am-8pm and succesful Czech fashion de-
 www.manufaktura.cz signers, designed by Olgoj Chorchoj.
 Dlouhá 3, Old Town
Botanicus  Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm
With many positions in Prague, this  www.klaranademlynska.cz
brand of natural soap, herb and
scent is a fantastic Anglo/ Czech Helena Fejková
success story. It was begun by a Occasionally quaint and always
botanist from Britain and a Czech wonderfully cut clothing, a venue for
partner on a farm to the north east finding a garment for special events.
of Prague. Doctor Stuart’s make  Martinská 4, Prague 1
wonderfully scented items which  Noon-7pm Mon-Fri
are excellent gifts for you to take  www.helenafejkova.cz
back home with you.
 Týnský dvůr (to the rear of the church Bohéme
of Týn) / Michalská 4, adjacent to Havel- Czech clothing store for women.
ské Tržiště, Old Town  Dušní 8, Old Town
 www.botanicus.cz  Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm
 www.boheme.cz
Laly
A small, wonderful vintage clothing There are quite lot of small
store with an intriguing array of food shops in the centre that
garments, a venue for opportunistic price their goods up to 5 times
browsing. more than normal. You can
 Štupartská 3, Old Town recognize them as they don’t
 Daily 11am-8pm have price tags anywhere.
 www.laly.cz
 51
SHOPPING

SHOPPING CENTRES  Plzeňská 8, Smíchov
Palladium  Daily 9am-9pm (restaurants until 11pm)
This very large shopping centre, is  www.novysmichov.eu
located in the city centre near the
Municipal House, a few minutes’ Metropole Zličín
walk from Na Příkopě. There are four This is not the biggest mall but it
floors, with more than 200 shops and does have various fast food restau-
over 20 restaurants and cafés. There rants, a cinema and a supermarket.
is also some historical value behind It also has plentiful parking and is
Palladium, as the foundations are as- close to the metro and bus route.
sociated with 12th century structures You can jump on bus number 100
which have been integrated into the from the airport to Zličín to do some
architecture of the shopping centre. shopping or grab a bite to eat when
 Náměstí Republiky 1 you leave the airport.
 Shopping gallery Sun–Wed 9am-9pm  Metro station Zličín
and Thu-Sat 9am-10pm; Supermarket  Daily 10am-9pm
Mon-Sun 7am-10pm, Restaurants  www.metropole.cz
Mon-Sun 8am-11pm
 www.palladiumpraha.cz Myslbek Shopping Gallery
This small shopping centre is loca-
Nový Smíchov ted in a modern building just opposi-
This is a fashionable and modern te the Černá růže (Black Rose) sho-
shopping centre, as well as a favou- pping centre. It is accessible from
rite entertainment centre. It is loca- Na Příkopě Street or from Ovocný
ted in the district of Smíchov, about a Trh Square. Behind a striking mo-
10-minute walk from the city centre. dern facade, this cosy and relaxed
Nový Smíchov is spread across three shopping gallery has 30 shops and
floors filled with 160 different shops, boutiques offering mostly fashion
a food court and a Cinema City mul- goods, cosmetics, leather materials,
tiplex. There are several stylish bou- ties and pearls. The shopping centre
tiques, a large electronics shop and also contains a few restaurants.
a Tesco hypermarket. There is also a  Na Příkopě 19, New Town
huge area for parking underground.  Daily Mon-Sat 9am-8pm & Sun
To get there take either a tram or the 10am-7pm
metro (line B) to Anděl.  www.ngmyslbek.cz
52
SHOPPING

Tesco Šestka
Just over the metro, the Národní is Šestka is a new shopping mall and
a 5 storey monolith, rather than a is very rarely busy. It is located one
normal retail outlet. Also, it is the stop from Prague Airport, meaning
most centrally positioned super- that it is very far from the city cen-
market, and the place you visit to tre but perfect to visit just before
get a few evening supplies, or some you leave.
fresh bread or fruit.  Daily 9am-9pm
 Národní 26, Prague 1.  www.oc-sestka.cz
 Daily 8am-9pm (Sun until 8pm)
Lucerna Passage
Fashion Arena Outlet Small shops, boutiques and interes-
This is an outlet centre where ting cafes can be found in passages
you will find dozens of shops with which run under the Art Nouveau
brands discounted by 30-70%. It is Lucerna Palace connecting the Vo-
open daily 10am-8pm. To get the- dičkova and Štěpánská streets just
re, take the metro (line A) to Depot off the Wenceslas Square. Here you
Hostivař and from there the shuttle will find the entrance to the the Lu-
bus runs directly to Fashion Arena. cerna cinema, a rock club, unique
 Zamenhofova 440, Štěrboholy boutiques, a wine shop, crystal sto-
 Daily 10am-8pm res, and the Lucerna café. You can’t
 www.fashion-arena.cz miss an upside-down version of St
Wenceslas and his horse by David
Slovanský Dům Černý, hanging from the dome of
On the street of Na Příkopě is loca- the atrium of the Lucerna passage.
ted Slovanský Dům shopping mall,
featuring top stores, restaurants, Koruna Passage
cafes, beauty salons and a multi- This passage, located at the bottom
plex cinema. Inside this lovely social of Wenceslas Square in the Art Nou-
complex you will be amazed by the veau Koruna Palace, offers clothing
elegant, modern design and combi- boutiques, a pizzeria, jewellery and
nation of high-end retailers like Ar- watch stores, a cafe, Body Basics,
mani, Clinique, Tommy Hilfiger and a jewellery store, and Bontonland
Calvin Klein, and award-winning Megastore (the largest music store
restaurants. in Prague).
 53
EATING / RESTAURANTS

Meals begin with a brothy
soup and often end with a
shot of Fernet or Becherovka
which is said to aid digestion.

54
Visitors to Prague often miss out on the
best of traditional Czech cuisine which
is heavily meat-based, but also quite di-
verse. Do not miss this, unless you are a
vegetarian. The traditional national dish is
“pork, cabbage and dumplings” (vepřo-
knedlo-zelo) which must be accompanied
with a pint of beer or two, the most typical
Czech beverage. This dish is composed
of roast pork, ‘knedlíky’ (bread or potato-
like dumplings, which is a kind of gnocchi
made from bread or potato), gravy and
sauerkraut (pickled cabbage). The reason
why it gained so much popularity is be-
cause of its balanced taste, with the sour
taste of sauerkraut a perfect complement
to the salty taste of the meat.
Other popular choices to try are roast
duck or sirloin beef in a cream sauce
(svíčková na smetaně) with bread dump-
lings and garnished with cranberries.
Czech cuisine also adopted schnitzel
(breaded and fried chicken or pork) from
Vienna, goulash (meat in gravy with bread
dumplings) from Hungary, and other things
like sour cream, vinegar, sour vegetables
and gherkins – probably from the East.
Among grab-and-go foods, ‘bramborák‘
(a garlic-seasoned fried potato pancake)
is a quick, if not greasy, local favourite.
The same goes for ‘smažený sýr‘ (fried
cheese). Fried cheese was, for a long time,
practically the only vegetarian dish served
in restaurants.
 55
EATING / RESTAURANTS

CHEAP RESTAURANTS Pizza Coloseum € 
Cheap restaurants are not hard This chain of restaurants is dotted
to find, but can be less frequent around Prague and is a solid place
around tourist spots. Generally, for pizza and pasta. They are often
prices in cheap restaurants range busy, but a still choice for a pre-mo-
from CZK 130 to CZK 250 for di- vie dinner.
nner and beer. Most of them serve  Vodičkova 32 in New Town and
Czech, Italian or American style upstairs in Koruna Passage on the corner
dishes. It is also possible to eat of Wenceslas Square and Na Příkopě
very cheaply at some local Chine-  Mon-Sat 11:30am-11:30pm,
se restaurants for around CZK 80 Sun noon-11:30pm
for a lunch. A set meal at McDo-  www.pizzacoloseum.cz
nald’s or KFC will cost you around
CZK 120. Please note that most Bohemia Bagel € 
of the cheap restaurants do not A wide variety of fresh bagels,
accept credit cards. sandwiches and homemade sou-
ps are available here, as well as
Pizzeria Kmotra €  bottomless cups of coffee. We re-
Here you can eat pizza. It is a pe- commend you try the muffins, and
rennial favourite: hence, the long cheesecakes.
queue for a table.  Lázeňská 19, Lesser Town
 V Jirchářích 12, New Town  Open 7:30am-6pm
 Daily 11am-midnight  Masná 2, Old Town
 www.kmotra.cz  Open daily 8am-8pm
 www.bohemiabagel.cz
U Kroka € 
It is not the best in Prague but if you Káva Káva Káva € 
have a small budget, this restaurant For good coffee accompanied by
is definitely worth it. Whether you toasted bagels, croissants, cakes
try goulash, pork with dumplings and pastries there is no need to go
or potato soup the portions are big anywhere else. Free WiFi.
and the food is well cooked.  Platýz Passage, Národní třída 37
 Vratislavova 12, Prague 2  Mon-Fri 7am-10pm,
 Daily 11am-11pm Sat & Sun 9am- 10pm
 www.ukroka.cz  www.kava-coffee.cz
56
EATING / RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANT PICKS Ambiente€€  
U Prince Hotel If you’re up for perfect homema-
Roof Terrace Bar €€€  de pasta with a large selection of
If you are looking for romance in wine, one of the best choices is the
Prague, then one of the best spots permanently best-rated Ambi chain
in town is the U Prince Hotel Roof restaurant Pasta Fresca. From
Terrace Bar. As you sit down for a street level, where the café is, the
drink, be sure to enjoy the roof-top restaurant might not look extremely
terrace at the five-star hotel by the charming, but once you enter the
same name. Located in Old Town stairs will take you to the intimate
Square, the sights are unforgettable 300-year-old cellar where every-
as you are at eye-level with the fa- thing is made by hand.
mous Astronomical Clock Tower.  Celetná 11, Old Town
The Roof Terrace Bar has some of  Daily 11am until midnight
the best views in all of Prague, and (café open 10am until midnight)
you can watch as the sun sets on CZK 200-400
Prague Castle and the square itself.  www.ambi.cz
You can even enjoy this spot year
round as there are heaters and co- Piano Nobile
vers which keep the terrace warm at Villa Richter €€€ 
and protected even in the middle of This fine, exquisite French restaurant
the winter months. is located on the hillside just below
 U Prince Hotel, Old Town Square 29 Prague Castle in a summerhouse
 www.hoteluprince.com that dates all the way back to 1836.
Newly restored, this restaurant of-
U Kalicha (At the Chalice)€€  fers not only a tremendous view of
Here you will find real Czech food. Prague, but also fine food at rea-
The Good Soldier Švejk made a sonable prices. The restaurant also
date with a friend here for ‚six in has over 2500 bottles of wine, inclu-
the evening after the war‘. It has ding a wide international selection
lots of atmosphere and standard as well as popular Czech wines.
Czech fare.  Staré zámecké schody 6, Prague Castle
 Na Bojišti 12-14, Prague 2  Daily 11am-11pm
 Daily 11am-3pm and 5-10pm CZK 350-550
 www.ukalicha.cz  www.villarichter.cz
 57
EATING / RESTAURANTS PICKS

SaSaZu€€  of Czech favorites and international
SaSaZu continues its reign as the ones as well with such meals as
top upmarket Asian restaurant in beef sirloin and rib eye steak.
Prague. The chef, Shahaf Shabtay,  Maltézské náměstí 292/10, Lesser Town
has travelled the world, and it shows  www.konirna.eu
on his menu, which includes flavours
and dishes from India, Thailand, Viet-
nam, Indonesia and other exotic lo- Go to Restaurants
cales in Southeast Asia. Prices for in- where Czech People Go
dividual entrées are not outrageous. Many of the best areas of Prague
 Bubenské nábřeží 306/13, Prague 7 are in the cobbled alleyways
 Sun-Thur 12 noon- 12 midnight & Fri- knotted together in delightful
Sat 12 noon-1am warrens, and this is where the
CZK 150-500 best bars and restaurants can
 www.sasazu.com be found. Unfortunately the
grungy bars have moved here
Chez Marcel €€   as well, but they are easy to tell
This is a French restaurant and bra- apart. Signs and menus in Eng-
sserie popular with locals and “ex- lish (especially if exclusively in
pats”. The daily specials are recom- English) are a warning to leave
mended: pepper steak and paté. immediately. However, staff
 Haštalská 12, Old Town being able to speak English is
 Daily 11:30am-11pm simply a tribute to the Czech
 www.chezmarcel.cz education system, and not a
reflection on the establishment.
Konírna Restaurant €½  A tourist wrangler on the street
Set in the middle of Lesser Town, outside should be treated with
Konírna Restaurant offers traditio- caution, and their desperate or
nal Czech food. The building which cunning entreaties ignored. Fi-
houses the restaurant actually da- nally, a simple look at the other
tes back to 1176, but has recently customers should tell you a lot.
undergone an entire transformation Local Czech people go to the
that has not only kept, but also en- best restaurants, tourists go to
hanced the atmosphere and charac- the easiest restaurants.
ter. The food on the menu is a blend
58
EATING / EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS

EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS lunches offer great value and are
If money is not an issue, you can especially popular.
sample some of the best gourmet  They are located at Na Kampě 8b,
restaurants in Prague. Our per- Lesser Town (Kampa Island)
sonal recommendations are the  Daily 11:30am-11pm (bar is open
restaurants: Bellevue, with unpa- 11:30am-1am)
ralleled views of Prague Castle and CZK 500-1000
Charles Bridge, Celéste, for its ex-  www.kampagroup.com
cellent French cuisine and views of
the Prague skyline. Another good Bellevue
tip is V Zátiší where you can in-
dulge in a 5-course menu, located
just beside Bethlehem Chapel. For
seafood specialities, try Restaurant
Rybí Trh. Although not cheap, the
dishes are an amazing combinati-
on of art and taste.

Kampa Park €€½ 
Kampa Park is an excellent choice,
especially in the summer when Bellevue€€€ 
diners can eat outside beside the Stunning views of the castle and river
River Vltava. Superb Scandinavian complement the outstanding world-
seafood and seasonal specialities class, carefully crafted continental
are among the top choices at this cuisine, served up in an atmosphere
posh riverside restaurant. Weekday of formal elegance. There is also a
lovely summer terrace. Fancied by
families, couples and businesses
alike, the Bellevue is considered to
be one of the top places to eat.
 Smetanovo nábřeží 18, Prague 1
 Daily noon-3pm (last orders 2pm) and
5:30pm-11pm (last orders 10pm)
From CZK 1000 and up
Kampa Park  www.bellevuerestaurant.cz
 59
EATING / EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS

Céleste€€½  Terasa U Zlaté Studně €€€ 
This restaurant offers one of the The food is the clear highlight of this
best French cuisines in Prague restaurant, but the views across the
and is located on the top floor red-tiled rooftops of Lesser Town
of one of Prague‘s most famous are also stunning. The kitchen,
modern landmarks, the ‘Dan- which has French, Mediterranean
cing House‘ (Tančící dům). The- and Asian influences also include
re are amazing views of the city fois gras, monk fish, royal pigeon,
both from the inside dining room traditional French bouillabaisse,
and the rooftop terrace. Recom- chocolate almond cake and home-
mended are red snapper à la made ice cream. This menu may be
Provençal, tournedos de boeuf expensive but it is an act of luxury
with Béarnaise sauce and young that some people may not get the
rabbit in mustard sauce. opportunity to experience anywhe-
 Rašínovo nábřeží 80, Prague 2 re else.
 Daily noon-11pm  U Zlaté Studně 4, Lesser Town
(no lunch on Mondays)  Daily from 7am-11pm
From CZK 700 and up A La Carte menu CZK 720-1150
 www.celesterestaurant.cz Multi-course menu at CZK 2100
 www.terasauzlatestudne.cz
U Maltézských Rytířů €€½  
These restaurant dining rooms with V Zátiší €€€ 
candlelit tables are housed in a Go- This is one of the best restaurants in
thic and Romanesque cellar making Prague. V Zátiší is a relaxed, sophis-
them continental, cosy, romantic ticated venue, which was among the
and gracious. Recommended dis- first restaurants to open in Prague
hes include filet mignon, venison following the Velvet Revolution. The
Chateaubriand, roast wild boar with restaurant is beautiful with several
rosehip sauce and homemade ap- different rooms decorated in diffe-
ple strudel. rent styles. You may select from Bo-
 Prokopská 10 (off Karmelitská), hemian, French or Oriental menu.
LesserTown  Betlémské nám. / Liliová 1, Old Town
 Daily from 11am-11pm  Daily noo-3pm & 5:30pm-11pm
Range from CZK 800-1000 Three courses menu CZK 1090
 www.umaltezskychrytiru.com  www.vzatisi.cz
60
EATING / CZECH RESTAURANTS

CZECH TRADITIONAL U Sádlů €½ 
RESTAURANTS The restaurant has a middle-a-
With cheap student pubs being clo- ges theme, complete with suits
sed and substituted for more profi- of armour and weaponry on the
table hotels and shops, it is becoming wall. Their kitchen produces out-
hard to locate a genuinely authentic standing tenderloin, hearty soups
Czech restaurant or pub in the histo- and other burly fare, but with a
rical centre of the city. Many Czechs certain “je ne sais quoi”, that is
do not frequent “authentic” eateries, moderately priced. The food is
and prefer the more cosmopolitan really excellent and the portions
food of other countries to boring are big.
sauerkraut. Consequently, historic  Klimentská 2, New Town
venues with a “traditional” Czech  Mon-Thr 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat
atmosphere have turned touristy, al- 11am-1am, Sun noon-midnight
though they are still lots of fun, great  www.usadlu.cz
value and liked by local people.
La Degustation Bohême€€€  
Kolkovna€½  La Degustation Bohême features
Run by the Pilsner Urquell brewery, traditional Czech food, utilizing
Kolkovna is a stylish, modern take on late nineteenth century recipes.
the traditional Prague beer hall deco- Restaurant, led by Chef Oldřich
rated with historical photos and adver- Sahajdák is one of the two re-
tisements, and old tools and artefacts staurants in Prague which have
traditionally used in beer brewing. The received the Michelin Star. A
food is reasonably priced, with a lar- team of chefs and pâtissiers pre-
ge selection of traditional Czech fare pare three menus consisting of
such as roast duck and pork, Mora- multiple courses supplemented
vian sparrow, goulash and venison. with seven amuse-bouches. Visit
Main courses are served with tradi- their website for a menu selected
tional side dishes such as dumplings using organic ingredients from
and red and white cabbage, along Czech farms and small produce
with mashed potatoes and chips. providers.
 V Kolkovně 8, Old Town  Haštalská 753/18, Old Town
 11am-midnight  Daily 6pm-midnight
 www.vkolkovne.cz  www.ladegustation.cz
 61
EATING / CZECH RESTAURANTS

Lokál€  U Provaznice €½ 
Part of the successful Ambiente The room is unusual, with bizarre
chain of „inventive“ restaurants, artwork and a poor masquera-
Lokál has championed the „Slow de of the faux-finish technique.
Food“ movement here in the Czech The wooden tables and chairs
Republic, turning out quality, mode- are very uncomfortable, but it is
rately priced Czech plates – think quite difficult to find a more rea-
livers, fried cheese, svíčková (beef sonably priced example of Czech
in a cream sauce and dumplings) – cooking anywhere so close to the
served in a trendy space, with free- city centre.
flowing Pilsner and a lively, upbeat  Provaznická 3, Old Town
pub atmosphere.  Daily 11am until midnight
 Dlouhá 33, Old Town  www.uprovaznice.cz
 Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat 12pm-1am,
Sun 12pm-10pm Bredovský Dvůr € 
 http://lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz It serves the usual Czech dishes,
sometimes with great aplomb. The
CzechHouse Grill €€½  ribs here stand out, as well does
The Hilton Prague‘s flagship re- the duck.
staurant features Czech specialties  Politických vězňů 13, New Town
as well as contemporary European  Mon-Sat 11am until midnight,
cuisine. In this vast room inside Sun 11am-11 pm
the Hilton, Chef Roman Paulus  www.restauracebredovskydvur.cz
concentrates on upscale, modern
versions of classics, but throws in Výtopna€½ 
a few twists, such as an over-the This Czech restaurant right on top
top prime beef tartar with caviar. of the Wenceslas Square boasts
Except for the less appealing view 400m of miniature railway system
of a car park and office building, that winds around the room and
there is nothing disappointing delivers drinks to your table.
about this place.  Wenceslas Sq. 56 (in Palác Fénix),
 Pobřežní 1, Karlín (inside the Hilton New Town
Hotel)  Sun-Thr 11am-midnight,
 Daily 6pm-11pm Fri-Sat 11am-1am
 www.hiltonprague.com  http://praha.vytopna.cz
62
EATING / VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS

VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS Govinda€  
There are not many “100% pure” The vegetarian restaurant Govinda
vegetarian restaurants in Prague, belongs to one of the first vegeta-
so if you are searching for one, rian restaurants opened in Prague.
it is good to know that many re- Various selections of Indian spe-
staurants which appear in vege- cialities and other meals inspired
tarian directories are often mixed by western culinary art are on the
restaurants, serving both meat menu. Simple interior, meditative
and only a few veggie dishes. music, low prices – that’s what
Except for well-known vegan characterize this place.
restaurants like Country Life and  Soukenická 27, Prague 1
Govinda, check the ingredients in  Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 12pm-4pm
the dishes, as it is not unusual CZK 100-150
for your potential veggie meal to  www.govindarestaurace.cz
include pork.
Lehká Hlava (Clear Head) € 
Country Life €½  A non-smoking, open-kitchen re-
This cafeteria-like or buffet-style staurant and tearoom, where you
vegetarian food hall offers a va- won’t meet meat but excellent and
riety of ready-made selections, cheap vegetarian cuisine. The menu
including sandwiches, salads, features specials, tapas, soups, sa-
veggie burgers and veggie gou- lads, desserts, pasta, main entrées,
lash. The extra healthy unproces- fresh juices, and other beverages.
sed, unrefined, non-dairy food No eggs are used. The interior is
is charged according to weight. unique, with each room having a
This place gets really busy, but different theme, a small colourful
don’t get frightened by the long contemporary room, a warm oran-
line – it moves quickly. It also has ge room with fish tank, and a blue
a health food store where you heaven room where the ceiling is
can pick up some items to cook decorated with stars.
at home.  Boršov 2, Prague 1
 Jungmannova 1, Prague 1  Mon-Fri 10:30am-11:30pm, Sat-Sun
 Mon-Fri from 8:30am, Sat&Sun closed 12pm-11:30pm
 Melantrichova 15, Prague 1 CZK 150-200
 Mon-Fri from 10:30am, Sun from 12pm  www.lehkahlava.cz
 63
EATING / CAFÉS

FAMOUS CAFÉS Café Slavia €½ 
Café Imperial €€  This is the most famous café in Pra-
Café Imperial is a wonderfully ele- gue: a cherry-wood and onyx shrine
gant and stylish place to indulge to Art Deco elegance, with polished
yourself in for a few hours. This limestone-topped tables and big
grand Habsburg-era café was windows overlooking the river and
recently renovated and has re- National Theatre just across the
tained its original, over-the-top, street. Indulge in your cup of cof-
20th century, cream-and-mustard fee while watching the city pass by.
ceramic tiled decor and colour- The menu offers some great cream
ful mosaic ceiling. You can come cakes, fresh salads, pasta and ve-
here just for a coffee and cake getarian dishes.
and soak up the atmosphere, or  Corner of Smetanovo nábřeží and
go a step further and enjoy a good Národní třída
meal from the kitchen of one of  Mon-Sat 8am-12am,
the Czech Republic’s most well Sat-Sun 9am-12am
known TV celebrity chefs.  www.cafeslavia.cz
 Na Poříčí 15, Prague 1
 Daily 7am-11pm Café Savoy €½  
 www.cafeimperial.cz Spacious and unhurried, this elegant
café on the edge of Malá Strana is ra-
Municipal House Café €€  rely troubled by tourist overload and
This splendid café in Prague’s makes a good refuge from the hustle
lavish Municipal House provi- and bustle of the town centre. A small
des the chance to sample your fountain at the entrance adds a touch
cappuccino amongst a caval- of class and the lofty, extravagantly
cade of art nouveau elegance. decorated 19th-century ceiling adds
Also worthy of note is the nice, real character to this century-old
small American Bar down in the room. The usual coffees and sweets
building’s basement, with polis- (including a superb apple strudel) are
hed wood, gleaming copper and complemented by a small drinks list
stained glass. and a few offerings for those wanting
 Náměstí Republiky 5, New Town a salad or a full meal.
 7.30am-11pm  Vítězná 124/5, Lesser Town
 www.kavarnaod.cz  www.ambi.cz
64
EATING / CAFÉS

Café Louvre €€½   table if you thought the service was
This historic French-style café is good, or say ‘dobrý‘ when paying your
a place for a great coffee with an waiter, it means “OK”, as in “keep the
even greater feel for the real Czech change”. Or, when handing over the
atmosphere. There is an upstairs money, just say how much you would
restaurant with views of the Art like to pay. If you say nothing, you will
Nouveau architecture. receive the exact change.
 Národní třída 22, New Town Some restaurants add a “service
 Mon-Fri 8am-11:30pm, fee” to the final amount, so the tip is
Sat-Sun 9am-11:30pm included. If you are unsure, just ask.
 www.cafelouvre.cz Also, if you are unsure about any
items on the bill, it is wise to ask.
TIPPING IN RESTAURANTS It can be hard to figure out exact-
A basic 5%-15% is appreciated, but ly what you are being charged for,
not mandatory. Czechs mostly just and “mistakes” are not uncommon.
round the bill up to the next round ten Even today, some establishments
crowns. You can leave cash on the try to rip off tourists.

n Traditional Czech Roast Duck with potato dumplings and cabbage
 65
PUBS AND BARS

Some restaurants, especially
those located in tourist areas,
might try to cheat you. Be
careful and always check the
bill. Don‘t eat what is left on the
table, as it will usually result
in being charged extra.

66
Beer is the essence of any Czech culinary attitude.
Czechs like to drink and they are amongst the biggest
drinking nations in the world. And when you want to
spend all night drinking, you have plenty of choices as
there are around 800 pubs in Prague, a few of which
have existed for centuries. The most famous is U Zlatého
tygra, not far from Old Town Square. It is a place where
former Czech president Václav Havel took Bill Clinton for
a drink in 1994.
Unfortunately, genuine Czech pub culture has devel-
oped drastically during the last decade, and some histor-
ic pubs are now highly overpriced and have since forced
out local drinkers due to the high cost. It means a lot
more attention has to be paid in selecting places to visit
if you want to avoid the unpleasant experience of paying
four times as much as necessary.
Despite the increased prices, tasting the Czech beer
at a traditional Czech pub is one of the must-do things. If
you have made up your mind and ended up at a busy pub
with nearly no places to sit, don’t worry. Czech tradition
is sharing a table – it is not unusual if someone asks you
if they can share your table with you, and of course, you
are expected say yes. And once you sit down and are
drinking your first pint, do not be surprised if your glass is
replenished without even asking (there is table service in
Czech pubs). That is part of the Czech tradition too.
If you find that pubs close a little bit early, especially
on weekdays, at around 11pm, you might continue your
night drinking by visiting many bars. Bars are usually
open until early morning and drinking there is more ex-
pensive than in pubs. One of the best upscale bars in the
city is Bugsy’s Cocktail Bar. Located just off of Old Town
Square on Pařížská, Bugsy’s has a classic 1950s Ameri-
can theme, with waiters in bow ties.
 67
PUBS AND BARS

n Live Music at U Fleků

PUBS the waiter asking if you want to
U Fleků€€   try a Becherovka – it will add CZK
On the premises of the oldest 80 to the bill.
Czech brewery in Prague, this  Křemencova 11, New Town
pub and microbrewery is more  Daily 10am-11pm
expensive than other places, but  www.ufleku.cz
in return you are drinking spe-
cial dark beer brewed right on U Vystřeleného Oka € 
the location while enjoying live It is a pleasant pub with a beer
music and chatting with tourists garden and serves cheap food
from all over the world. The front and beer. This pub pulls in all sorts
façade of the 12th-century build- of people from backpackers to lo-
ing is unique in that it has an old, cal writers.
highly- decorated clock above its  U Božích Bojovniků 3, Žižkov
door. 13° black beer (0.4l) known  Mon- Sat 4:30pm-1am
as Flek costs CZK 59. Beware of  www.uvoka.cz
68
PUBS AND BARS

U Pinkasů €  Pivní Galerie € 
The first Prague pub to serve Pil- This is a bar and bottle shop togeth-
sner Urquell (in 1843), it is still a er. They have a few beers on draft,
place recommended for great and along with hundreds of bottles of dif-
reasonably-priced Czech meals. ferent Czech beer. If you‘re not sure
The interior is spartan, but the which one to choose, ask the staff
back patio is a surprising haven, for help. The bar is located away
surrounded by ruins and divided from the city centre, about a 2/3 of
into distinct open-air rooms, it wel- a mile from Holešovice train station.
comes boisterous groups (you may Because of its location, many for-
hear impromptu singing) or those eigners never find this very friendly
seeking a more romantic place. bar with its great atmosphere.
 Jungmannovo náměstí 16, New Town  U Průhonu 9, Holešovice
(close to Můstek metro station)  Mon-Fri 11am-7pm
 Daily 10am-11:30pm  www.pivnigalerie.cz
CZK 150-250
 www.upinkasu.cz U Medvídků €½ 
Some bars in Prague have veered
Pivovarský Dům €½  towards the tourist currency, al-
The food is average, but the beer though U Medvídků has retained
is experimental and very good. its traditional charm and is still very
The restaurant’s extensive beer much a favourite with Czech locals.
list boasts some fairly unorthodox This is a straightforward Czech pub
flavours such as coffee and cham- and easily large enough to accom-
pagne. This place is definitely worth modate everyone.
a few pints, with a nice atmosphere  Na Perštýně 7, Old Town
and friendly service. Locals gather  Daily 11am-10pm
here to sample the classic Czech  www.umedvidku.cz
lager and it gets crowded, so expect
to wait if you come at dinner time. Pivnice U Černého Vola € 
 Lípová 15, New Town This is an authentic and very nice beer
(close to Charles Square) hall. Local clientele and local prices.
 11am-11:30pm  Loretanské náměstí 1; Prague Castle
CZK 250-400 CZK  Daily 10am-10pm.
 www.pivovarskydum.com  www.ucernehovola.cz
 69
PUBS AND BARS

U Zlatého Tygra €  from their microbrewery simply
(The Golden Tiger) must not be missed.
This is quite an old drinking hall  Vodičkova 20, New Town
with cool beer prices, just CZK 36  Mon-Fri 10am-11:30pm, Sat
for ½ a litre of the frothy Pilsner Ur- 11:30am-11:30pm, Sun noon-10pm
quell lager. When Bill Clinton visited  www.npivovar.cz
the Czech Republic, Václav Havel
former President of the Czech Re- Les Moules Café €€ 
public showed him this pub – to This restaurant/café serves a large
see a real Czech pub. The average selection of Belgian beers, includ-
beer tourist may find it hard to get ing Stella Artois, Chimay and Hoe-
a seat in this popular local hangout, gaarden. From the food menu, try
so make sure you get there early some delicious seafood.
as seats fill up quickly. Have a pint  Only a few steps from the Jewish
while standing at the bar, if all the Museum located at Pařížská 19, Josefov
seats are taken or reserved for  Daily 11:30am-12pm
regular patrons. This is one of the It is a bit pricier compared to other pubs
world‘s greatest beer halls, so treat  www.lesmoules.cz
it and its regular patrons with ap-
preciation. Klášterní Pivovar €€ 
 Husova 17, Old Town (The Strahov Monastery Brewery)
 Daily from 3pm- 11pm This microbrewery is located close
Mains CZK 100-150, CZK 36 per 0.5l to Prague Castle (Strahov Monas-
of Pilsner Urquell tery), it serves simple meals and
 www.uzlatehotygra.cz famous Czech beers. The pub
serves up two varieties of its St
Novoměstský Pivovar €½   Norbert beer – dark, a rich, tarry
(Newtown Brewery) brew with a creamy head, and
This popular local beer hall is amber, a full-bodied, hoppy lager.
located just a few blocks from It might be a bit more expensive by
Wenceslas Square. If you have Czech standards, but is still a bar-
not booked, you will be lucky to gain for travellers.
get a table. The restaurant serves  Strahovské nádvoří 301, Strahov
hearty Czech food at very reason-  Daily 10am-10pm
able prices. Light and dark beers  www.klasterni-pivovar.cz
70
PUBS AND BARS

Ferdinanda€  to dairy cheese and it is whipped
This establishment has two cen- up into a froth into which a small
trally located restaurants – one in amount of fresh garlic is pressed.
Lesser Town and the other in New Topinka – this is a piece of dark bread
Town. Ferdinanda serves the tasty fried in salt, garlic and lard or oil. It is
and unique Ferdinand beer, or try traditionally served with scrambled
the „Sedm kulí“ (Seven Bullets), eggs, grated cheese, a meat mixture,
which is an excellent Vienna-style or spicy cheese spread.
beer. Of course, they also have Pickled Hermelín – Hermelin is a
a good selection of pilsners and camembert-type cheese. This one
lagers. The food is different from has been marinated in oil with on-
what you would find in other similar ion, garlic, hot peppers and spices.
places, and the staff is very friendly. Tlačenka s cibulí (brawn and on-
Prices are very reasonable. ion) – is a piece of haggis-resem-
 The New Town location is on the cor- bling meat desert, garnished with
ner of Opletalova and Politických vězňů vinegar and sprinkled with freshly
 Mon-Sat 11am-11:00pm cut slices of onion. Be aware that
 Lesser Town location is these are often quite acidic because
at Karmelitská 18 of the vinegar.
 Mon-Sat 11am-11:00pm, Sun
11am-5pm
 www.ferdinanda.cz Survival Beer Dictionary
Beer – PIVO
TYPICAL BEER SNACKS Brewery – PIVOVAR
Utopenec (literally drowned Dark beer – TMAVÉ PIVO
man) – so called because it con- Lager beer – SVĚTLÉ PIVO
sists of a soft, strong, spicy sau- Draft beer – TOČENÉ PIVO
sage filled with onion and spicy One beer – JEDNO PIVO
paprika, seasoned with pepper Two beers – DVĚ PIVA
and covered or “drowned” in a Thank you – DĚKUJI
liquid made from water, vinegar Bill please – ÚČET PROSÍM
and salt. After several days in cold Menu – JÍDELNÍ LÍSTEK
storage, the smoked meat be- Good day – DOBRÝ DEN
comes a spicy delicacy. Goodbye – NASHLEDANOU
Pivní sýr – a little cream is added
 71
PUBS AND BARS

BARS and on Thursdays all cocktails are
There are three types of bars half-price. There are also three tel-
unique to Prague – the traditional evisions and one large projection
Czech pub with a perfect local at- screen, receiving such channels as
mosphere and usually cheap beer, Sky Sports, ESPN, BBC and more.
western-style bars serving trendy  Liliová 14, Old Town
but expensive cocktails, and the  Daily 10am until 1am
casino bars which are a 24-hour  www.oches.com
bar-casino combination. These be-
low are our favourites. Bugsy‘s Bar €€½ 
An old reliable place, where trendy
Double Trouble Club €€  and hip crowds gather every night,
This is a bar and club with small it shakes, stirs and tosses the best
party atmosphere and huge cocktail cocktails in town. Their drink list is
list. No one is going to be shocked about the length of The Great Gats-
by people dancing on tables or by and fun to read with over 300
seats, or even on the bar. Actually, different kinds of drink listed.
this is the norm here.  Kostečná 2 (off Pařížská), Old Town
 Melantrichova 17, Prague 1  Daily 7pm-2am
 Daily 8pm-4am (Fri-Sat till 5am)  www.bugsysbar.cz
Cuba Libre CZK 95, Mojito CZK 140
 www.doubletrouble.cz Czech Beer
The love of beer is one of sev-
O’Che’s Bar €€   eral characteristics that the
With a great location in the Old Town Czechs share with the British.
near Charles Bridge, there is no won- Czech beer tends to be more
der that this pub is very popular. In- full-bodied and more bitter
terestingly, it is not a traditional Irish than foreign brews, and always
pub, but it is a mix between Irish and arouses the desire for more.
Cuban. As a result, O’Che’s brings The most famous beers are
in a wide and varied clientele who Pilsener Urquell and Gambrinus
come for the sports, the cocktails from Plzeň (Pilsen), Budvar from
and the beer. O’Che’s also sports an České Budějovice (Budweis),
impressive number of beers on tap, Staropramen and Krušovice.
as well as a cocktail of the week -
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PUBS AND BARS

Caffrey‘s Irish Bar €€   Bombay Cocktail Bar €€ 
Here you will find a casual atmos- Only a few steps from Old Town
phere and full menu on Old Town Square you can find this busy,
Square. Guinness, Kilkenny and popular music bar. It is quite
Bulmer’s are all available. If you small with a tiny dance floor. Re-
can, try going in the summer when gardless of its size, it has a good
the bar will open a terrace facing atmosphere and the best cock-
the Old Town Square. You will not tails in town – guaranteed. This
want to miss having a great drink in bar attracts mainly international
such a great location. travellers.
 Old Town Square 10  Dlouhá 13, Old Town
 Daily 9am-2am  Sun-Wen 7pm-4am, Thr 7pm-5am,
 www.caffreys.cz Fri-Sat 7pm-6am
 www.bombay-bar.cz
American Bar €€½ 
This classic-style bar housed in
the Art Nouveau Municipal House Czech Spirits
is one of the oldest in town. Drinks If you prefer spirits, all the well-
are poured by true experts. The known ones are available, the
bar was decorated with colored most popular amongst Czech
drawings by M. Ales in the period people being vodka followed by
1910–1911. rum and fernet. Fernet is a dark
 Republic Sq. 5, New Town herbal bitter drink. Becherovka
 Daily 11:30am-11pm is another herbal spirit, originally
 www.americkybar.cz/en/ from the Bohemian spa town of
Karlovy Vary. Another spirit you
Al Capone’s €  may come across is ‘borovička’
Small and cozy cocktail bar in the (a juniper-flavoured spirit with
heart of the city. Low prices with the influence of an Italian grap-
fun guaranteed - all that makes it pa) and ‘myslivec’. If you will
a good choice. be invited to someone’s home
 Bartolomějská 3, Old Town you might be offered ‘slivovice’
 Mon-Thr 5pm-2am, Fri 6pm-3am, which is mostly homemade
Sat & Sun 6pm-midnight brandy made from plums.

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ENTERTAINMENT /
NIGHTLIFE

As with most things in Prague,
the closer you get to the Old
Town Square, the more you pay
for a worse product…
and this is generally the case
with church concerts too!

74
Prague offers a large number of activities
on which to spend your free time. There are
theatres, museums, concerts, classical music
recitals, festivals, exhibitions, galleries, discos,
entertainment for children – every visitor will
surely find something to suit his or her taste.
For night-time entertainment, Prague also of-
fers a huge range of options. There are shows,
concerts, jazz, theatre, cabaret, pubs, casinos,
nightclubs and strip clubs to be discovered, re-
lished, tasted and enjoyed right through to the
early hours of the morning. The nightlife scene
cannot quite match that of London and other
big cities, but that can be a good thing too in
terms of price and smaller crowds.
Prague has a long music tradition which can
provide a great opportunity to enjoy a classic
concert, either at a Baroque palace, summer
castle garden or acoustic church. Some plays
are performed in English, and for much other
entertainment knowledge of Czech isn’t a ba-
rrier at all. For example, Black light theatre is
a non-verbal performance characterized by the
use of black box theatre augmented by black
light illusion.
Prague‘s theatre and concert venues are all
centrally located in the Old Town and New Town
and the same is true for most small and me-
dium-scale jazz and rock venues. Žižkov has
more late-night pubs and bars and Holešovice
is good for nightlife, offering several of the city-
‘s newest clubs and venues. Wenceslas Square
and side-streets are the centre of Prague‘s red
light district.
 75
ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

DISCOS ty. Another favourite among young
Although Prague’s clubbing scene people is M1 Secret Lounge on
can’t be compared with the nightlife Masná, near Old Town Square. The
of London or Paris, there are some crowd is generally a mix of well-off
discos in Prague which are well young Czechs and expat students.
worth a visit. Radost FX is a club
with enduring popularity, situated Duplex€€  
close to IP Pavlova metro. This club Duplex is one of Prague’s most
has many visiting star DJs for their popular nightclubs with a huge
dance floor downstairs. Upstairs, it dance floor. It is a combination of
is a lounge and vegetarian restau- nightclub, café and restaurant. Du-
rant and coffee shop. ring the day the 6th-floor terrace
If you like funk and techno, then restaurant is a great place for a
Roxy is the best club in town, lo- coffee and to enjoy the views. The
cated close to Naměstí Republi- night offers a view overlooking the
ky. Karlovy Lázně is a mega club lights of Wenceslas Square.
near Charles Bridge, with four  Wenceslas Square 21, New Town
dance floors, each floor dedica-  10pm-5am
ted to a different music genre.  www.duplex.cz
This club is especially popular
among tourists. Mecca€½ 
Duplex on Wenceslas Square is One of the best in Prague. This is a
another disco popular with fore- very fashionable club (former ware-
ign teenagers and even stag-par- house), featuring industrial-chic,
ty stragglers. La Fabrique has a house and techno music to dance to.
couple of dance floors, and is near  Located at Průhonu 3, Holešovice
Wenceslas Square also, making it  Mon-Sat 10pm-6am
another good centrally-located Women admitted free until midnight
option.  www.mecca.cz
If you want to experience a more
Czech atmosphere, try the club N11 Karlovy Lázně €€  
(Meloun), which is popular with the Located close to Charles Bridge at
locals. Lucerna Music Club on Novotného lávka in Old Town, this
Wenceslas Square is a fairly large is another huge and very cool night
club and it regularly fills to capaci- club. Each floor has its own style,
76
ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

from chill out to hard core trance, ROCK CLUBS
live bands at ground level, dance Under the communist regime rock
to classic disco on first floor (Dis- and roll was banned, as it was
cotheque), rock to 1960s and 70s considered too pro-western. Pra-
music on the second floor (Kaleido- gue’s rock scene was dominated
skop), or house and techno on the by dissident-era rock bands and
third floor (Paradogs). highly influential international
 Smetanovo nábřeží 198, Prague 1 acts, like the Velvet Underground
 9pm-5am and the Rolling Stones. But since
CZK 150 1989 after the Velvet Revolution,
 www.karlovylazne.cz the independent rock and roll
scene has flourished and evolved
Radost FX €½  here. Now the city offers many di-
This very famous club features top fferent rock venues of a good old
local and international DJs. Exqui- rock and roll. Clubs such as Fu-
site sofas, mosaic-topped tables... turum, Klub 007 Strahov, Bunkr,
A café serving great veggie food and Palác Akropolis and Roxy usua-
cheesecakes, a Moroccan lounge in lly host live rock bands.
the back for relaxation, and a down-
stairs dance club that only gets go- Roxy€½  
ing in the early hours. Arrive at around midnight when the
 Bělehradská 120, Vinohrady fun starts in the best club in town,
(close to IP Pavlova metro station) if funk, rock and techno is your fa-
 www.radostfx.cz vourite. Drinks prices are very re-
asonable.
Gay and Lesbian Scene  Located at Dlouhá 33, Prague 1
Prague has a lively gay and  Daily 7pm-5am
lesbian scene with numerous  www.roxy.cz
clubs and bars to enjoy. Žižkov
and Vinohrady are Prague Vagon Club €½ 
districts where most gay and With its entrance tucked away in
lesbian clubs are located. Try a shopping arcade, Vagon is more
Termix Club, Třebízského 4a - like a student union bar than a club
very popular in Prague. as such, but it always has a frien-
dly, chilled-out atmosphere. There
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

is live music pretty much every ni- BLUES AND JAZZ CLUBS
ght, from local blues artists, throu- For blues and/or jazz, some good
gh to Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin performances can be caught at
tribute bands to classic Czech rock U Malého Glena, near Lesser
bands, including regular perfor- Town Square. The performance
mances by Plastic People of the area is very small with just a few
Universe. tables. The same goes for Ungelt
 Národní 25, Prague 1 Jazz and Blues club, behind Týn
 Mon-Thur 7pm-5am, Church.
Fri-Sat 7pm-6am, Sun 7pm-1am
Admission free after 11pm Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club €½ 
otherwise CZK 100 A tiny club situated in the 15th-
 www.vagon.cz century cellar of a Renaissance
building. A mix of blues, funk and
Music Bar Futurum€½  jazz supplied by top Czech per-
Futurum is quite a large club, ha- formers. They feature live shows
ving a 500-person capacity, with every night.
a large bar occupying the longest  Týn 2, Old Town
wall next to the dance floor. It is  www.jazzungelt.cz
primarily a rock club and because
of its size, it is a venue for large U Staré Paní €½ 
bands to play – large in fame of “The Old Lady” is a sophisticated
course, not a band with a giant cellar jazz club that attracts serious
drummer and yeti guitarist – to names from all over the world.
fill the large dance hall. There are  Michalská 9, Old Town
80s and 90s parties every Friday  www.jazzstarapani.cz
and Saturday which specialise in
showing old video clips on a large Blues Sklep €½ 
screen. One of the city’s newer jazz clubs.
 Zborovská 7, Prague 5 A mix of blues, jazz and deep funk
 Mon-Thur 8pm-1am, Fri-Sat 9pm- is played here.
5am, Sun 8pm-1am, concerts start  Liliová 10, Prague 1
around 9pm  Daily 8pm-3am
Admission start at CZK 100 Admission CZK 100
 http://futurum.musicbar.cz  www.bluessklep.cz
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

ADULT CLUBS Lotus Club €€ 
The side streets near Wenceslas This newly renovated club speciali-
Square (especially Perlová Street) zes in luxury. This gentleman’s club
are full of strip clubs. This is Pra- comes with young girls.
gue’s small red light district.  Kupeckého 832, Prague 4
The most famous and most ex-  7pm to 8am
pensive strip clubs are Gold-  www.lotos.cz
fingers, located under the Am-
bassador Hotel, Darling Cabaret
at Ve Smečkách 32 and K5 Re- Party Limo
lax at Korunní 5. Almost all strip Relax in a luxury limousine
clubs offer private strip shows whilst enjoying a long and
and even more... whatever you sensual performance from a
fancy. highly trained erotic dancer.
Generally all strip clubs charge Available for Lincoln or Hum-
entrance fees, so unless you have mer limousine transfers.
a promotion leaflet with a free www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk
entrance offer, expect to pay any-
thing from CZK 200 to CZK 600.
Drinks are usually much more ex- Casinos
pensive compared to the ordinary Casino President 
pubs or night clubs. They offer free soft drinks if you
gamble. This new and luxurious
Hot Pepper’s €€€   casino features roulette, black jack,
This exclusive club is located next punto banco and poker.
to the disco Duplex and comes with  Hotel President, nám. Curieových 100
a professional presentation.  Daily from 6pm-4am
The all-night party includes exo-
tic dancers, a lesbian show, stage Ambassador Casino 
show and private parties. There is Open non-stop with Roulette, black
free entry, two-for-one beers and jack, punto banco, poker and slot
many other offers. machines.
 Wenceslas Square 21, New Town  Hotel Ambassado,Wenceslas
 Daily 8pm-6am Square 5-7
 www.hotpeppers.cz  Nonstop
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

MASSAGE CINEMA
Mandarin Oriental Spa €€€  Prague has numerous cinemas,
The only spa in the world located many located in newly-built shop-
in a former Renaissance chapel ping centres, showing international
offering a unique spiritual space to films along with some Czech films.
begin your journey to equilibrium. Admission is from CZK 90 to CZK
For complete privacy guests can 200. Hollywood blockbusters may
retreat in their robes through an be dubbed into Czech, but films
underground passageway linked are mostly shown in their original
directly to the main building and language with Czech subtitles.
their rooms. You’ll need half a day Prague is not only popular with
here for the luxury Bohemian Ri- tourists but also many internatio-
tual, but it’s well worth taking the nal movies have been shot here,
time out of your schedule for it. such as Mission Impossible, The
 Nebovidská 459, Lesser Town League of Extraordinary Gentle-
 Mon-Sun 10am-8:30pm men, Amadeus, Oliver Twist, Hell-
 www.mandarinoriental.com/prague/ boy and many others. Full listings
of movies shown in Prague‘s ci-
Thai Fit €½  nemas are published in the “Night
One of the oldest in Prague. The & Day” section of the Prague Post
aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid newspaper.
restaurant adds to the ambience of
this great place and inspires you Cinema City €€ 
with what to do post massage. Eat! This ten-screen cinema is in a great
They also tantalize the senses with location close to Wenceslas Square
herbal, oil, chocolate and lava stone in the Slovanský Dům shopping
massages, and once you‘re limbe- centre.
red up, you can join one of their yoga  www.cinemacity.cz
courses or just lounge a bit longer in
the sauna. The price is CZK 600 for a Lucerna€€ 
one-hour traditional Thai massage. One of the oldest cinemas in town,
 Na Poříčí 21 or Vodičkova 41, seating over 500 people, located
New Town just off Wenceslas Square in Lucer-
 9am-9pm na passageway.
 www.thaifit.cz  www.lucerna.cz
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

THE PERFORMING ARTS Czech and English surtitles. Tickets
Classical music should be bought in advance.
Prague has two well-established The National Opera Company has a
concert halls – Dvořák Hall in the more experimental repertoire and
Rudolfinum and Smetana Hall in the most of its operas are performed in
Municipal House – but it is possi- Czech with English surtitles. To view
ble to find classical music concerts a Czech opera, by Czech composers
all around the city. Also popular are Smetana or Dvořák, the National
classical music concerts and recitals Theatre is your best opportunity. A le-
held in churches and palaces. Regular sser known opera company based at
concerts take place on the steps of the Estates Theatre performs mainly
the National Museum and during the classical, Italian operas in the original
summer in some of Prague‘s gardens. language with English surtitles.
The Czech Republic has produced Opera tickets for top-price seats
a few famous composers, including range from CZK 1000 to CZK 1300,
Dvořák, Martinů, Smetana, Janáček which makes seeing an opera in
and Mahler. Mozart also liked to Prague more accessible than in
perform in Prague because of his most European cities.
relationship to the city. Prague has
four theatres where opera is per- State Opera (Státní opera)
formed and a few orchestras play, North of the museum, along Wilsono-
the most famous being the Czech va and next to the former Parliament
Philharmonic (Česká filharmonie), Building, is the massive building of the
which is located at the Rudolfinum. Prague State Opera. The State Opera
was first opened in 1888 as the New
Opera German Theatre (as a Prague Ger-
The two major companies, the Na- man stage with the performance of
tional and the State, both perform Wagner‘s opera, The Mastersingers
exclusively in their own theatres – the of Nürnberg). Bohemian-born com-
National Opera Company in the Natio- poser Gustav Mahler brought traffic
nal Theatre, the State Opera Company to a standstill while conducting the
at the State Opera. The latter presents premiere of his Seventh Symphony.
popular performances of a predo- It is one of three important venues
minantly classical Italian repertoire, for opera in Prague, the others being
always in the original language with the National Theatre and the Estates
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

Theatre. At that time, the theatre was TICKETS AND RESERVATIONS
known as one of the most beautiful Even if you think you have to re-
German theatres in Europe, espe- serve your tickets for classical mu-
cially for its rich ornate neo-Rococo sic, opera, theatre or ballet, or even
decor in the interior. some rock concerts, you might be
Most State Opera performances fine just to buy tickets before the
are of Italian repertoire – those of show (or at the theatre box office
Donizetti, Rossini, Verdi and Pucci- itself). But, to take advantage of
ni – with the occasional inclusion of booking ahead and having pea-
Russian, German and French oeuvres ce of mind, you will find plenty of
(works of a composer) each season. agencies that deal with theatre,
At festive times, particularly leading opera and concert booking. It is
up to Christmas, the Prague State common for most venues to offer
Opera departs from opera and ballet discounts for students, children
to become the grand setting for a and the disabled.
series of wonderful classical music
concerts. Among the exceptional ar- National Theatre Box Offices
tists who performed here were direc- All tickets for performances can be
tors Gustav Mahler, Richard Strauss, bought online at www.narodni-di-
Felix Mottl, Arthur Nikisch and Felix vadlo.cz/en/tickets or at the below-
Weingartner, as well as soloists Anna -listed box offices.
Bahr-Mildenburg, Berta Lauterer- The National Theatre box office is
Foerster, Maria Jeritza, Nellie Melba, open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm and you
Karl Burian, Enrico Caruso, Benjami- can buy tickets for five months in
no Gigli, Jan Kiepura, Richard Kubla, advance. Tickets are available for
and Tino Pattiera. The venue is extre- performances of Opera, Ballet, Dra-
mely popular and advance booking is ma, and Laterna magika at the Na-
advisable and often essential. Advan- tional Theatre, the State Opera, the
ce tickets can be purchased through Estates Theatre and the New Stage
Bohemia Ticket and Ticketpro, and Theatre. Tickets can also be bought
range in price from CZK 100 to CZK 45 minutes before the beginning of
1150 (CZK 100 to CZK 500 for a ba- performances at the box offices at
llet). The doors are open 10am-7pm the National Theatre historical buil-
Mon-Fri, Sat 9am-1pm. Performan- ding, at the State Opera and at the
ces usually begin at 7pm. Estates Theatre.
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

BEST THEATRES IN PRAGUE
The National Theatre
The most beautiful of all Czech
theatres is The National Theatre in
Prague, it became the symbol of
the Czech national revival period.
Funding for its construction was
raised through a nation-wide public
collection. Building began in 1868
according to the plans of architect J.
Zítek. However, in 1881, just as its
construction was finally nearing its n National Theatre interior
end, the theatre burned down. The
reconstruction took two years and fi- the original building of The National
nally on November 18, 1883, the Na- Theatre, in The Estates Theatre and
tional Theatre was inaugurated with in The Kolowrat Theatre.
the Czech opera Libuše composed  Národní třída 2, New Town
by Bedřich Smetana. The decoration  The box-office is open Mon-Sun
of both exterior and interior is a work 10am-6pm
of leading Czech artists M. Aleš, F. Tickets cost about CZK 1200
Ženíšek, V. Hynais, J. V. Myslbek and  www.narodni-divadlo.cz
others. Today, the National Theat-
re consists of three art ensembles Theatre Etiquette
– opera, ballet and drama – which Dressing up for the theatre is
are performed at three places: in customary, but is no longer a
strict rule. You should, how-
ever, refrain from wearing
trainers. When attending a
classical concert or opera, on
the other hand, you must be in
formal attire. Whistling is not
considered a positive form of
applause: it is equivalent to
booing.
n National Theatre at night
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

Estates Theatre Image Theatre
The Estates Theatre is the oldest (Black Light Theatre)
theatre in Prague, famed as the Come to the theatre where dan-
place where Mozart conducted cers will express their unspoken
the premiere of Don Giovanni on emotions and overcome the laws
29 October 1787. Mozartissimo of physics in front of your eyes.
– a medley of highlights from The intense darkness of the black
several of Mozart’s operas, inclu- theatre is full of fantasy. Music will
ding Don Giovanni – is performed bring the inanimate to life, tragedy
here several times a week in the will change into comedy and the
summer, see their website for the unbelievable will become reality.
exact performances showing, the Moreover, your imagination will be
rest of the year sees various ope- fully awakened.
ra, ballet and drama productions.  Národní 25, Old Town
The theatre is equipped for the  Performances starting at 8pm
hearing-impaired and has whe- Tickets cost CZK 480
elchair access (wheelchair boo-  www.imagetheatre.cz
kings can be made up to five days
in advance). National Marionette Theatre
 Ovocný trh 6, Old Town The National Marionette Theatre
You can buy tickets up to CZK 1200 has a long tradition in popular en-
from any National Theatre box office tertainment in Prague. Puppets and
costumed actors perform classical
operas like versions of Mozart‘s
famous “opera of operas”‘, Don Gi-
ovanni, as well as some lighter fare
like the enchanting story of The
Magic Flute. Another interesting
performance is the Puppet Gala
Performance, a mix of puppeteers‘
finest works.
 Žatecká 1, Old Town
 Performances starting at 8pm
Tickets are around CZK 600
n Night view of the old Estates Theatre  www.mozart.cz
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ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

CHURCH CONCERTS Basilica of St. George
If you fancy a classical concert (Bazilika sv. Jiří)
with a difference during your trip The oldest preserved religious
to Prague, head to your nearest building in Prague. It is only a small
church. With one of the world’s venue, but this beautiful 10th centu-
most atheist populations, many of ry basilica (located in Prague Cast-
the city’s churches have been de- le, and home to the tombs of some
consecrated for alternative uses, very early princes) is the best place
with one of the major ones being to see mini-ensembles playing the
as venues for classical music. It likes of Mozart and Verdi.
is ideal really – an opulent and  U sv. Jiří, Prague Castle
atmospheric setting deliberately
designed to have excellent acous- Church of St. Simon and St. Jude
tic qualities. (Kostel sv. Šimona a Judy)
This Jewish Quarter church may
Baroque Library Hall be deconsecrated, but that does
(Barokní knihovní sál) not mean the aisles cannot still be
With its stunning 18th-century rocking. With a restored organ and
frescoes and colourful stucco excellent acoustics, the Prague
work, this monastery library hall is Symphony Orchestra regularly uses
one of the most charming – if, for this place for chamber concerts and
some reason, least used – concert recitals, while it is also a main ve-
halls in Prague. You are always nue in many of Prague’s big music
guaranteed high quality here, with festivals.
regular performances by the Col-  Dušní, Josefov
legium Marianum ensemble.
 Melantrichova 971/19, Old Town St. Nicholas’ Church Lesser Town
(Kostel sv. Mikuláše)
Basilica of St. James St. Nicholas’ Church, created by
(Bazilika sv. Jakuba) three generations of the Dientzen-
Known as an excellent venue for hofer clan, was a favourite venue of
organ concerts, the organ here was Mozart, so you’ll find local ensem-
built in 1709 and retains its original bles playing the maestro’s music all
tone structure to this day. year round.
 Malá Štupartská 6, Old Town  Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town
 85
ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

MUSEUMS Mucha Museum
Speculum Alchemiae This very popular museum dedica-
It’s a fascinating, magical and spell- ted to the life and work of the worl-
binding experience. Watch the re- d-acclaimed Czech Art Nouveau
velation from late medieval to early artist Alfons Mucha (1860-1939)
modern times, when science and can be found in the Baroque Kau-
mysticism were closely linked. nický Palace. A stunning collection
 Haštalská 1, Old Town of over 100 exhibits includes Mu-
 Mon-Sun 10am-6pm cha‘s trademark Slavic maidens
Adult/child CZK 200/70 with flowing hair and piercing blue
 www.alchemiae.cz eyes, bearing symbolic garlands
and linden boughs; and paintings,
Prague Wax Museum photographs, charcoal drawings,
There are over 60 wax figures of pastels, lithographs and personal
personalities from Czech and world memorabilia.
history, politics, culture and sport.  Kaunický palác, Panská 7, Old Town
At the same location from April  Daily 10am until 6pm
2014, there is an exhibition of Ma- Adult/discounted CZK 240/160
dame Tussauds, which is actually  www.mucha.cz
much better than the Prague Wax
collection, and is included in the Lobkowicz Palace
ticket price. Built in 1570, this palace houses
 Celetná 6, Old Town an exquisite collection of Czech
 Daily 10am-9pm history and old master paintings
 www.waxmuseumprague.cz by Canaletto, Brueghel, Bellotto,
Cranach, Rubens, Velázquez and
Museum of Communism others. You can admire one of the
Permanent exhibition: Dreams, most important collections of arms
Reality and Nightmares – depicts in Central Europe and original ma-
the communist regime in Czecho- nuscripts by Mozart and Beetho-
slovakia. ven.
 Na Příkopě 10, Savarin Palace  Jiřská 3, Prague Castle
 Daily 9am–9pm  Daily 10am-6pm
Adult/discounted CZK 190/150 Adult/discounted CZK 275/200
 www.muzeumkomunismu.cz  www.lobkowicz.cz
86
ENTERTAINMENT / NIGHTLIFE

GALLERIES in Prague. In 1768 it was bought by
Prague is filled with numerous Rudolf Kinsky, an Imperial diplomat. In
amazing art galleries, which are February 1948 Klement Gottwald pro-
often forgotten by tourists. The Na- claimed communist rule in Czechoslo-
tional Gallery comprises many buil- vakia from the palace balcony.
dings around Prague and is famous  Old Town Sq. 12, Old Town
worldwide for its collections.  Daily except Monday 10am-6pm
Adult/discounted CZK 150/80
Prague Castle Gallery  www.ngprague.cz
The Picture Gallery of Prague Castle
(Obrazárna Pražského hradu) was St. Agnes’ Convent
founded in 1965. Today the gallery When you are in Prague’s Jewish
houses paintings from the 16th to Quarter, you should ensure that you
the 18th centuries. The highlights see this convent. St. Agnes’ Convent
of the gallery are: Guido Reni‘s The hosts a permanent exhibition of Me-
Centaur Nessus Abducting Deianei- dieval Art in Bohemia and Central
ra, Titian‘s The Toilet of a Young Europe. Among the highlights are
Lady, and Rubens‘ The Assembly works by artists: the Master of the
of the Olympic Gods. There are also Vyšší Brod Altar, Master of the Mich-
sculptures and paintings by Czech le Madonna, Master Theodoric, Mas-
baroque artists and many of Rudolf ter of the Litoměřice Altar, Master of
II‘s (1575-1611) best paintings. the Altar of the Knights of the Cross.
 Prague Castle Second Courtyard  U Milosrdných, Josefov
 Daily 9am-5pm (winter until 4pm)  Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
Adult/discounted CZK 150/80, Adult/discounted CZK 150/80
Family CZK 200  www.ngprague.cz
 www.hrad.cz

Kinský Palace National Gallery Admission
This palace hosts permanent collec- Admission to all six permanent
tion with the title “The Art of Asia”. exhibitions of the National Gal-
lery in Prague: CZK 300. Free
Kinský Palace was built between 1755
entry for children and youth
and 1765 by Anselmo Lurago from de- under 18 years and for stu-
signs by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. It dents under 26 years.
is the most beautiful Rococo building
 87
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST
TO SEE

Astronomical
88 Clock
Prague Castle to the fabled Golem, and will take
The network of towers, churches, you to what used to be a Jewish
museums, halls, gardens and pal- ghetto in Prague.
aces is virtually a village in itself.
Saint Vitus Cathedral
Charles Bridge Situated at the Prague Castle, and
Irrespective of whether you see positioned on the site of a tenth-
Charles Bridge on a misty morning, century Romanesque rotunda con-
or if you barge through the crowds in structed by Good King Wenceslas,
the afternoon, or if you see it at night Saint Vitus Cathedral is Prague
with its picturesque views of Prague Castle’s most visited attraction.
Castle illuminated in the background,
travelling across Charles Bridge epit- Municipal House
omises the Prague experience. and Smetana Hall
The most noticeable Art Nouveau
Old Town Square building in Prague is a cultural
and Astronomical Clock centre that has an auditorium and
In spite of the hordes of tourists, exhibition halls.
busy pavement cafés and rampant
commercialism, it is difficult to stop Trade Fair Palace
yourself from enjoying the specta- The starkly functional Veletržní
cle of the premier public square in Palác, constructed in 1928 to host
Prague. The Astronomical Clock is international trade events, turned
among the most popular sights of into the new venue for the National
Prague Old Town. Gallery museum of twentieth- and
twenty-first-century art.
Wenceslas Square
The top of this square has the Estates Theatre
Czech Republic national symbol This is the oldest theatre in Prague
– the Saint Wenceslas statue, de- and well worth a visit for the fine
signed by Myslbek. architecture and performances
alone. Now, this is the premier ven-
Old Jewish Quarter ue for ‘Don Giovanni’ (the famous
Small cobblestone streets are home opera by Mozart).
 89
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Prague Castle and Hradčany bing, but you will be rewarded with
Hradčany lies on the left bank of views of the colourful rooftops and
the River Vltava and is domina- the spires of the city. You can ei-
ted by the Prague Castle and St. ther start your walk from Nerudova
Vitus Cathedral. When entering Street just off Lesser Town Square
Prague Castle through the ornate or via The Old Castle Stairs from
Matthias Gate, be prepared for an Malostranská metro station.
onslaught of historical facts and
legends, not to mention a stagge- Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)
ring variety of architectural styles. Prague Castle looks almost like a
St. Vitus Cathedral is a breath- small town in itself. It is the largest
taking example of ecclesiastical ancient castle complex in the world
architecture. at 570m (1870 feet) long and on
The oldest surviving church in the average 128m (419 feet) wide. It
castle complex is the Basilica of St. is also the place where the Czech
George. Golden Lane was a double
row of decrepit wooden shacks
until the reign of the Habsburg
Empress Maria Theresa, who mo-
dernised much of the castle in the
neo-classical style. Several impo-
sing palaces dominate Hradčany
Square: Schwarzenberg Palace,
Archbishop‘s Palace and Sternberg
Palace. The nearby Loreta is one of
the most beautiful pilgrimage sites
in the Czech Republic.

Getting around Prague Castle
The best metro stop is Malostran-
ská via line A, while tram enthusi-
asts should jump onto tram line 22,
getting off at the Pražský hrad stop.
If you are going to the castle on
foot, be prepared for a bit of clim- n St Vitus Cathedral
90
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n Archbishop‘s Palace
kings, Holy Roman Emperors and The main attraction is St. Vitus ca-
presidents of the Czech Republic thedral, an interesting 14th century
have had their offices. Therefore, it Gothic structure adorned with fasci-
is not surprising this is the most vi- nating gargoyles easily be seen from
sited tourist attraction in Prague. ground level. Inside the cathedral the-
It is not exactly a “classic” castle re are some very elaborate tombs, re-
because portions of it were built dolent of Czech history. It is worthwhi-
in different styles and it spreads le climbing to the top of the bell tower,
out more horizontally than ver- which takes you to the highest point
tically. But inside the majestic inside the castle. From the top, there
castle, there are many sights and are fabulous views of the castle and
attractions. the Old Town of Prague.
 91
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Prague Castle Courtyards Gallery. Today, the Prague Castle
The first courtyard is easily acce- Picture Gallery is located in what
ssed through Hradcany Square. Ho- used to be the stables and hou-
wever, this was not always the case ses a small portion of Rudolf’s art
as at one point, the courtyard was collection. When the Gallery was
separated by a moat and could only being renovated, workers came
be entered by using a drawbridge. across the remains of the first
This natural moat was actually one church at the castle to be dedica-
of three that originally protected the ted to the Virgin Mary. Dating back
castle. You can enter this courtyard to the 9th century, this church was
by going through a gate decorated only the second Catholic Church in
with statues of fighting giants and Czech lands.
guarded by two castle guards. This Entrance to the third courtyard is
courtyard is also completely closed gained through a passageway in
in by buildings. You can exit this the east wing. This entire courtyard
courtyard into the second one by was paved in the 1920s and now
using the Matthias Gate which was covers the remains of the origi-
the original entrance to the castle nal medieval structures such as a
itself. When going through the gate, church. The most important feature
there is a staircase that leads to here is the Cathedral of St Vitus,
representative rooms of the castle known as the largest Christian
now used by the Czech president. church in the Czech Republic.
The second courtyard was origi- The Spanish Hall is also a famous
nally created in the 16th century spot located at Prague Castle.
on a buried moat. Here, visitors will Build by Rudolf II, the first floor was
find Kohl’s Fountain along with St at one point the largest secular
Cross Chapel. In addition, most of room in the castle. Rudolf had it
the northern part of the courtyard constructed to house his sculpture
was developed by Emperor Rudolf collection, but today it is used as
II. Since Rudolf was a great art a gathering place for both political
lover, he used the stables here to and social events. The interior of
store much of his art by adding a the Spanish Hall dates back to the
second floor above the stable and 17th century and has undergone
building grand Renaissance halls, numerous renovations throughout
including the Spanish hall and the the years.
92
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

The Old Royal Palace. Located to the is a lovely sight, it does contain one
south of the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the small blemish. That is that the twin
Royal Palace is one of Prague Castle’s spires do not have the same proporti-
oldest structures. Throughout the ons. Adam, or the south spire, is lar-
years, it has been the scene of several ger than the slimmer north spire na-
history making events. For example, med Eva. Inside the basilica are the
in 1618 the so-called Prague defe- final resting spots of numerous Czech
nestration took place here as did the royalties including two princes who-
death sentence of 27 anti-Habsburg se graves go all the way back to the
rebels in 1621. This palace was not 10th and 11th centuries. Also loca-
built all at one time, but rather over ted here are numerous Romanesque
many centuries in three main stages. murals as well as a Gothic statue
The building that stands now is also depicting the Virgin Mary and Christ.
built over an 12th century Romane- The vaulting still bears the Roma-
sque palace which now forms the nesque frescoes from the mid 13th
cellar of the current palace. The most century. The convent of St. George
significant construction took place was at one point a center of scientific
toward the end of the 15th century research and housed a room where
when architects linked the earlier manuscripts were copied.
spaces and created one large space.
Vladislav Hall is also an important
part of Prague Castle and today is
used for important state occasions.
It is made of two distinctly different
architectural styles with Renaissance
windows and entrances, but a Gothic
ceiling. This hall used to be called the
Great Throne Hall and was originally
used for special occasions such as
coronations, feasts and even jousting
tournaments. When Rudolf II was em-
peror, it was used as an art market.
The Basilica of St. George is still the
best preserved Romanesque place of n St. George´s Basilica at Prague Castle
worship in the city. While the basilica now serves as a concert hall
 93
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Located behind the Convent of several famous writers lived here
St. George is the Golden Lane. It including Franz Kafka and Nobel
gets its name from the goldsmiths Prize winning poet Jaroslav Seifert.
that lived here in the 17th centu- Located next to the easternmost
ry. The areas is not only picture- gate into Prague Castle, the Lob-
sque, but is also surrounded by kovicz Palace was built after a
numerous myths and legends. For fire in 1541. However, it gets its
example, many of the legends su- current looks from the 17th cen-
rround the alchemists who were tury when it was rebuilt for the
trying to make s stone of wisdom Lobkovicz family. The banquet
which would transform ordinary hall is the largest and still sports
metals into gold and make the the mytological paintings from the
owner immortal at the same time. 17th century. On the other side
One alchemist in particular fueled of the palace is the Black Tower
these legends. The Viennese pro- which was an original part of the
fessor Uhde lived on Golden Lane fortifications and later turned into
around 1830 and was known for a debtor’s prison.
being slightly off center. He would The Ledeburg, Furstenberg and
wear a long black coat and had Palffy Gardens. These gardens are
a long white beard. He was con- located in spots that would have
stantly trying to develop a stone one point been working vineyards,
of wisdom and one night his lab but in the 16th century, nobility
suffered an explosion and crea- began to use the same ground for
ted a fire. The professor suffered terraced gardens. These three gar-
a stroke and he died with a smi- dens were then joined together to
le while holding a nugget of pure create one large one. Created in
gold. In later years, Golden Lane 1784, the Furstenberg Garden was
attracted the poor and the name decorated with statues and classic
Golden became more irony than vases. The Palffy Garden still con-
anything else. It was said that at tains a sundial painted at the top of
the time, there was only one toilet the staircase. The Ledenburg Gar-
and an open sewer ran down the den is home to a stunning sala te-
middle of the lane. It was around rrena and all can be accessed from
the turn of the 19th century that the Palffy Palace and are well worth
Golden Lane was renovated and the trip.
94
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Prague Castle Gallery
The collection of Prague Castle
Gallery, housed in the beautiful
Renaissance stables at the nor-
thern end in the second courty-
ard, contains around 400 pain-
tings and drawings of 16th to
18th century European Art. These
paintings have been carefully
selected from about 4,000 that
n Letohrádek Královny Anny (Belvedere) are currently in the possession of
Prague Castle. A few works have
Belvedere – The Royal survived from the legendary co-
Summer Palace llection of Rudolph II, but most
To the north of the castle fortifi- were lost as spoils of war during
cations and across from the deep the 17th century, moved to Vie-
moat stands Belvedere Palace, a nna or sold - either to the Saxons
pleasant place to relax. The pala- or in the “Josephine” auction of
ce can be seen from the tram if 1782. The following are regarded
you take a ride up to the castle. as the most valuable paintings in
Inside the Royal Summer Place, the collection: Titian‘s Toilet of a
there are two domed Renaissance Young Lady, Tintoretto‘ s Flage-
halls and a main dance hall on the llation of Christ and Rubens‘s The
first floor with a wooden coffe- Assembly of the Olympic Gods.
red ceiling. It is embellished with There are other major works by
paintings representing the history great artists including Hans von
of the kingdom. In the garden in Aachen, Domenico Fetti, Barto-
front of the palace you can see lomeo Spranger, Paolo Veronese
the bronze Singing Fountain built and Jacopo Bassano. Gallery
in 1568. The fountain acquired holds temporary exhibitions, but
its name because of the sound it also has a small permanent ex-
makes when the water drops on hibition of pieces from the reign
the metal fountain bowls. The pa- of Rudolph II. Czech art is repre-
lace now hosts an art gallery and sented by artists of the Baroque
occasional exhibitions. period by Kupecký and Brandt.
 95
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

St Vitus Cathedral
The spires of St Vitus Cathedral,
an elegant but domineering
French Gothic structure, soar abo-
ve the ramparts. It is the country‘s
largest church, and contains nu-
merous side-chapels, frescoes
and tombstones, not forgetting
the nave‘s beautifully coloured n Prague Castle Courtyard view
stained-glass windows created
by the famous Czech Art Nouveau side-chapels contains the tomb
artists. It literally sparkles with all of St Wenceslas, the ‘Good King
the finery inside. The most beau- Wenceslas‘ of the Christmas ca-
tiful of the cathedral‘s numerous rol, which has become something
of a pilgrimage site, and shows
scenes from the life of Christ.
The Coronation Chamber houses
the Bohemian Crown Jewels, and
the Royal Crypt is where most of
the Kings and Queens of Bohemia
have their final place of rest (Char-
les IV, Wenceslas IV, George of Po-
děbrady and Rudolf II). The sou-
thern entrance to the cathedral,
the Golden Gate, is decorated
with a richly gilded coloured mo-
saic representing the Last Judge-
ment, dating from 1370, and it is
one of the artistic treasures found
in the Castle District. It is possi-
ble to climb the 96m-tall tower
for magnificent views over the
city and clockworks. The tower‘s
Sigismund Bell, made in 1549, is
Bohemia‘s largest bell.
96
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

St. Wenceslas Chapel in St. Vitus Cathedral  97
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

St Vitus Cathedral Map
1 Bartoň-Dobenín Chapel

N

15 14
2 Schwarzenberg Chapel

16
13
3 New Archbishops Chapel
(Hora Chapel)

11
12

18
17
4 Old Treasury (Cathedral Treasury

10 m
now in Holy Rood Chapel in the
second courtyard)

24 21 20 19
10
10
9

Altar
High
5 New Sacristy
6 Wohlmut’s Choir (Organ Gallery)
7 St Sigismund’s Chapel

Choir
8
(Czernin Chapel)

22
23
8 Old Sacristy

Pulpit
(formerly St Michael’s Chapel)

Royal
Mausoleum
9 St Anne’s (Nostitz Chapel) Triforium
7

10 Historical reliefs
11 Statue of Cardinal Friedrich

25
von Schwarzenberg

South Doorway
12 Old Arcibishop’s Chapel

26
13 Chapel of St John the Baptist Tr an s ep t
6

(Pernstein Chapel)
14 Lady Chapel
(Trinity Chapel, Imperial Chapel)

Tower
High
27
5

15 Tomb of St Vitus
16 Reliquary Chapel
(Saxon Chapel, Sternberg Chapel)
28
4

17 Tomb of St John of Nepomuk
18 Chapel of St John of Nepomuk
29
Na ve
3

(St Adalber’s Chapel)
19 Waldstein Chapel
31 30

(Magdalene Chapel)
2

20 Royal Oratory (Vladislav Oratory)
21 Chapel of Holy Rood
1

22 Entrance to Royal Vault
23 Monument of Count Leopold Schlick
Tower

Tower
South
North

24 Martinitz Chapel
(St Andrew’s Chapel)
25 St Wenceslas’s Chapel
West Doorway
(above, Crown Chamber)
26 Golden Gate
27 Hasenburg Chapel
Tickets: Free admission for the small area of the
28 Chapter Library
29 Thun Chapel Cathedral; but a charge is applicable for the crypt,
30 Chapel of Holy Sepulchre the tower (with amazing views) and the choir.
31 St Ludmila’s Chapel (Baptistery)

98
Eating

Shopping

hours suffice.
all over the world.

Prague Castle Tour
pping areas in Prague.

Coming with Children?
ght from souvenir shops.

the art galleries, four
gue Castle can take the
not enter the buildings
takes two hours if you do
The tour of Prague Castle
present, collected from
cient Greek period to the

whole day, but without
rough inspection of Pra-
and the gardens. A tho-
tion of toys from the an-
features a large exhibi-
the Toy Museum, which
the most expensive sho-

You might wish to visit
aware that this is one of
Golden Lane – but be
which can also be bou-
bring your own snacks
A good idea might be to

For shopping, do not miss
There is a limited choice

and possibly drinks,
of pricier restaurants.

N Lion´s Den
Old Riding School (Wine-bar)
(Exhibition Hall) St Ma
ry´s W
Hradčany
ork Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)
Hercules
Brusnice  Fountain

r
R o ya l G a

e
rden

e
Ball Game Hall

Powd
Singing

Bridg
National Arch- Spanis Deer P
Gallery h Hall
Mihulka it Fountain Belvedere
Bastion Castle
Garden Gallery Vikárka Tower
bishopˇs Restaurant Brusnice
Second Vicarsˇ Lane White 
Courtyard New Tower
Palace St Vitus´s Provost´s
Lodging St George´s Daliborka
Cathedral Convent Café Golden La
ne Tower
St George´s
Old Provost´s Square Wine Bar Old Burgrave´s
First St George
´s
yši

Hradčany Lodging Basilica e ´s Lodging
Treasury rg
Op

St Geo Lane Black
Courtyard 

Na

Square Tower
Third Royal Convent for Noble Ladies Lobkowitz
Courtyard Palace Palace Bastion Old
Salm Ne Castle
w Defene- Steps
Palace Ca stration Garden
stl
eS Paradise Rampart
u tep Garden
s Music 100 m
ad Fountain
Hr Matthias Pavilion
Ke

99
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Pavilion
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n New Castle Stairs (208 steps)

Getting There on Foot You will end up in front of the main
As a starting point, we recommend entrance to the Castle. This option
Malostranská metro station, loca- is not suitable for less energetic
ted just below Prague Castle. From seniors.
there you will walk up on the Old
Castle Stairs (Staré zámecké scho- Getting There by Tram
dy) directly to the castle gate. Ano- If you prefer not such a steep walk
ther recommended option is from up the Old Castle Stairs, you can
Lesser Town Square via Nerudova take tram No.22 up the hill and get
Street – a bit of a steep walk too. off at the stop for Pražský hrad.
Other tram stops include:
• Královský letohrádek (Belvede-
Changing of the Guard re) – start with the Royal Garden,
This is a ceremony that takes Belvedere and Ballgame Hall, then
place at the Castle every day cross the Deer Moat bridge to get
from 7am until 6pm (in sum- to the Second Courtyard. The Royal
mer until 8pm). The changing Garden and Deer Moat are closed
of the guard at noon also in- from November to March.
cludes a fanfare and a flag cer- • Pohořelec – walk to the castle
emony in the First Courtyard. through Hradčany and you will
arrive at the main entrance.
100
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Prague Castle opening hours Circuit B – CZK 250 ticket
During the summer season (Ap- Includes: St. Vitus Cathedral, Old
ril–October), the castle complex is Royal Palace, St. George‘s Basilica,
open daily from 6am to 10pm. Pla- Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower.
ces where tickets are required are The most popular circuit.
open from 9am to 5pm. Prague Ca-
stle Gardens together with the Deer Circuit C – CZK 350 ticket
Moat are open from 10am to 6pm. Includes: Exhibition The Treasure of
During the winter season (Novem- St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague Castle
ber – March), the castle complex Picture Gallery.
is open daily from 6am to 10pm.
Places where tickets are required Exhibition The Story of Prague
are open from 9am to 4pm. Prague Castle – CZK 140 ticket
Castle Gardens, including the Deer Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Moat and the Riding School Terrace, – CZK 100 ticket
are closed.
Exhibition The Treasure of St. Vitus
Prague Castle entrance fees Cathedral – CZK 300 ticket
Entrance fees are required for
a few selected areas, but visi- Great South Tower with a View
tors can walk freely through the Gallery – CZK 150 ticket
grounds and even into the larger
Powder Tower – CZK 70 ticket
portion of the cathedral. A collecti-
ve ticket can be purchased at the
information office. Tickets are valid
for two consecutive days. Allow a Security Checks
minimum of four hours for a visit. The longest queues can be
expected by visitors entering
Circuit A – CZK 350 ticket Prague Castle from Hradčanské
Includes: St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Square. Almost no queues are
Royal Palace, exhibition The Story reported after 4pm and on
of Prague Castle, Rosenberg Pa- rainy days or by entering cas-
lace, St. George‘s Basilica, Golden tle via Old Castle Stairs (Staré
Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder zámecké schody).
Tower.
 101
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Loreta ganda weapon of the Counter-Re-
This remarkable place consisting of formation and, following the defeat
a cloister, the Church of the Nativi- of the Protestants at the Battle of the
ty, the Holy Hut and a clock tower White Mountain in 1620, some 50
with a world famous chime has other Loreta churches were founded
been a place of pilgrimage since in Bohemia and Moravia. The heart
1626, when it was endowed by a of the Loreta is the Santa Casa, a
Bohemian noblewoman, Kateřina of replica of the Virgin Mary’s reloca-
Lobkowicz. ted house. Sumptuously decorated,
The Loreta was inspired by a me- it incorporates a beam and several
dieval legend. In 1278, so the story bricks from the Italian original. On
goes, the Virgin Mary’s house in Na- the silver altar (behind a grille) is
zareth was miraculously transported a small ebony statue of the Virgin
by angels to Loreto in Italy and thus Mary. The rich stucco reliefs, de-
saved from the infidel. The Marian picting scenes from the lives of the
cult became an important propa- prophets, are by Italian artists.

102
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

arresting painting of St. Starosta,
a bearded lady who prayed for faci-
al hair to put off an unwanted sui-
tor, only to be crucified by her father
whose plans for her wedding were
thwarted. The Loreta treasury has
a famed collection of vestments
and other religious objects, inclu-
ding a diamond monstrance made
in Vienna in 1699, which glitters
with 6222 precious stones.
 Loretánské náměstí 7, Hradčany
 Daily 9am-5pm (summer),
9:30am-4pm (winter)
Adult/student CZK 150/110

The much larger Church of the Na-
tivity was designed by Christoph
Dientzenhofer, and after his death
in 1722 was finished by his son Ki-
lian Ignaz, with ceiling frescoes by
Václav Reiner and Johann Schopf.
Less edifying are the gruesome
remains of saints Felicissimus and
Marcia, complete with wax death
masks. The cloisters, originally 17th
century but with an upper storey
added by Ignaz Dientzenhofer in
the 1740s, once provided overnight
shelter for pilgrims. In the corner
chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is an
 103
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Strahov Monastery ted in large halls and decorated
Strahov monastery was not much with Baroque ceiling frescos. It
of a success until 1143, when is the largest monastic library
a group of Premonstratensians in the country with two baroque
settled here. The Premonstraten- halls and is more than 800 years
sians are a Roman Catholic order old. The library contains more
of canons founded in 1120 by St. than 200,000 volumes, including
Norbert. They are also known as 1,500 books published before the
the Norbertians or White Canons. year 1500, along with 3,000 ma-
During communist times the mo- nuscripts. The oldest book is the
nastery was closed and many 9th-century Strahov Gospel. Other
monks were imprisoned. Later, af- works include those of famous
ter the communist regime collap- printers such as Christoffel Plantin
sed, they returned here (in 1990). from Antwerp.
The monastery area includes the There is the two-story high Philo-
Church of St. Roch, the Church of sophy Hall dating back to 1780 and
Our Lady of Ascension, where Mo- its entire ceiling is covered with a
zart is said to have played the or- delightful composition entitled The
gan in 1787, Strahov Picture Galle- Spiritual Development of Mankind
ry and the unique Strahov Library. by Franz Maulbertsch. The lobby
The magnificent library is loca- outside the hall contains a Cabi-
net of Curiosities which you sim-
ply must see. This corridor takes
you to the Theology Hall (with a
curved ceiling in Baroque stucco
work) dating from 1679, built by
Giovanni Orsi. Theology Hall has it
walls lined with elaborately carved
bookcases, stacked with precious
volumes and manuscripts.
 Library: 9am-noon & 1-5pm
Adult/discounted CZK 80/50
 Picture Gallery:
10am-11:30am & noon-5pm
Adult/discounted CZK 100/50
104
The Amazing Strahov Library Interior  105
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Schwarzenberg Palace Galli in 1545-67 for Jan Popel of
From a distance, the facade of this Lobkowicz, one of the richest noble-
well preserved palace appears to men in Bohemia. The ceilings inside
be clad in projecting pyramid-sha- Schwarzenberg palace are decora-
ped stonework, but it is an illusion ted with paintings on canvas stre-
created by rich black-and-white tched over a wooden construction.
sgraffito patterns inscribed on a The four paintings made in around
flat wall. It is an example of the so- 1580 depict famous antic scenes –
called Czech Renaissance – mixing The Judgement of Paris, The Kidnap
the Italian influences with Czech of Helen, The Conquer of Troy and
traditions. The palace was built on The Escape of Aeneid. From 1909
the ruins of three buildings which the palace was used by the Tech-
were destroyed by the great fire nical Museum, but now it belongs to
in 1541. The present look was de- the National Gallery in Prague.
signed by Italian architect Agostino  Hradčanské náměstí 2, Prague Castle
106
 107
Hradčany / Prague Castle
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Old Town (Staré Město)
Old Town is steeped in history.
From the 9th century onwards,
merchants from all over the world
would meet here, at the crossroads
of trade routes. Some of them cho-
se to settle here, leaving their mark
on the town‘s unique atmosphere.
The Old Town is positioned on a
bend in the River Vltava and grew
up around Old Town Square. The
southern part of Old Town is ma-
inly a maze of narrow streets and
arcaded courtyards that conceal
gabled houses, cheerfully painted
shop fronts, churches and taverns.
Old Town Square, the Astronomical
Clock and the Old Town Hall are the
best attractions which every visitor
while walking in this district must
see. Charles Bridge links Old Town
n Old Town Hall on Old Town Square
to Lesser Town.
to Staroměstská. There are three
Getting around Old Town metro stops in this area: the most
There is basically no public transit useful is Staroměstská (five minu-
in Old Town as most streets are tes’ walk from Old Town Square),
either pedestrianised or banned to Náměstí Republiky (near Na Příko-
buses and larger vehicles, except pě street and Palladium shopping
for local residents and taxis, so centre), and Můstek (where Wen-
walking is the most common way ceslas Square meets Old Town).
to get around. Taking a taxi is an
option, but due to the regular over- Old Town Square
charging of tourists it is not worth The square has always been a
the trouble. It takes about 15 minu- lively place, today it is a popular
tes to walk from Náměstí Republiky part of the town for both Czechs
108
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n Jan Hus Monument, completed in 1915 on the occasion of the 500th anniversary
of the death of Jan Hus, the Czech Hussite reformer. This massive monument domi-
nates the centre of the square

and visitors from abroad, as it of- Our Lady before Týn and the Ast-
fers plenty of restaurants, pubs, ronomical Clock Tower. The histo-
shops, entertainment, galleries ric rooms of the town hall, tower
and museums. Its long history and Gothic chapel are open to the
goes back to the 11th centu- public. The Jan Hus statue is the
ry when the square formed the centrepiece among a variety of
crossroads of several long-di- surrounding historical buildings.
stance trade routes and served The statue was erected on 6 July
as a marketplace. It was known 1915 to mark the 500th anniver-
throughout the whole of Europe sary of the reformer‘s death. The
at that time. While sitting at some groundswell of supporters for his
outdoor cafés or strolling around, beliefs during the 14th and 15th
do not miss the view of beautiful centuries eventually led to the
pastel coloured buildings of Ro- Hussite wars. Despite the initial
manesque or Gothic origin with outcry at the modern style of the
fascinating signs. The most nota- sculpture, the statue stands as a
ble sights here are the Church of symbol of Czech identity.
 109
View of Prague‘s red rooftops
from the Old Town Hall Tower

110
The house “At the Minute”
Next to Old Town Hall, the house “At the Minute” was Franz Kafka‘s childhood home.
The Renaissance-era house has black and white designs covering  the facade.
111
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Astronomical Clock You can watch the twelve apost-
The most popular part of the tower les appear every hour from 9am
is the town hall clock. Prague‘s to 11pm in its upper section. Huge
Astronomical Clock is one of the crowds gather well in advance to
oldest and most elaborate clocks watch this performance.
ever built. The tower dates back to The Prague Information Service
1338, although the clock was first situated next to the Astronomical
installed in 1410, the clock was re- Clock provides information about
built by Master Hanuš in 1490. concerts, performances, and other
The clock is composed of three happenings in the city.
main components: the astronomi-  Old Town Hall
cal dial, representing the position  Mon 11am-6pm, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm
of the sun and moon in the sky and
displaying various astronomical St. Nicholas’ Church
details, ‘The Walk of the Apostles‘, Though less popular than St. Ni-
a clockwork hourly show of figures cholas’ Church in Lesser Town,
of the Apostles and other moving St. Nicholas’ Church in Old Town
sculptures, and a calendar dial Square deserves its place among
with medallions representing the Prague’s most appreciated and
months. visited places. The church is re-
gularly used for religious and
classical music concerts. Not to
mention that it has a 2,500-pipe
organ.

Little Square (Malé náměstí)
This small square is surrounded
by neo-Renaissance and baroque
facades, including the sgraffito-de-
corated Rott building (Hotel Rott),
and has a wrought-iron fountain
at its centre. The square links Old
Town Square with Charles Street
(Karlova), which leads to the Char-
les Bridge.
112
St. Nicholas’ Church on Old Town Square  113
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Around the Square Prague Renaissance house, adorned
Do not miss exploring the streets with much sgraffiti. The famous wri-
surrounding Old Town Square whe- ter Franz Kafka lived here with his
re almost every building throws up parents at the end of the 19th cen-
some highlight. tury. The house “At the Minute” was
connected with the neighbouring
The Old Town Hall is a curious Pecoldovský house and “At the Coc-
amalgamation of buildings in diff- kerel” house, and it was added to the
erent architectural styles – its ear- Prague Old Town City Hall complex.
liest elements date from the 14th
century – which has expanded as Stone Bell House, a unique city
Prague grew in importance. The palace with original Gothic appea-
town hall was badly damaged in rance, is perhaps the most attrac-
World War II and was rebuilt over tive building in Old Town Square.
many years. Its tower is 69.5m Stone Bell House hosts temporary
high and worth the climb (there is exhibitions of contemporary art and
a lift) for splendid views. also musical events run by the City
 Mon 11am-10pm, Tue-Sun 9am-10pm Gallery of Prague.
Adult/discounted 130/80
If you go from the square to Char-
House at the Two Golden Bears, les Bridge you will most likely go
situated at the corner of Melantri- along Karlova (Charles Street) as
chova and Kožná Street, is another this is the most direct route. Look
one of them. The building was con- out for the outstanding Baroque
structed from two earlier houses in Clam-Gallas Palace. Named af-
1567. It is also one of the oldest ter the wealthy patron of the arts
houses in Prague. The house has Václav Gallas, it was built by Jo-
beautiful Renaissance arcades da- hann Bernhard Fischer of Erlach
ting from the 16th century and an (between 1713 and 1719). There
ornate portal with reliefs of two be- are statues made by Matthias
ars, designed by the court architect Bernhard Braun and a theatre
Bonifaz Wohlmut. where Beethoven performed some
of his works. The palace has been
The house „At the Minute“ in Pra- restored and today it houses the
gue‘s Old Town Square is a typical Municipal Archives of Prague.
114
MEETING
POINT

FREE
TOUR
STOP
(second
half)


 Charles Bridge
Wencesla
s

Old Town Square
115
Square 
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

116 Old Town Square from a bird‘s eye view
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n Church of Our Lady before Týn (Kostel Matky Boží před Týnem)
This magnificent church dominates one side of Old Town Square. This Gothic-lo-
oking church with twin towers has a rich Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque interior.
A beautiful entranceway decorated with scenes of Christ‘s passion and a huge Ro-
coco altar on the northern wall are its most striking features. To the right of the altar
there is the tomb of the Danish astronomer Tycho de Brahe, who worked at the
court of the Emperor Rudolph II. Týn church has a grand-sounding pipe organ and
is occasionally a concert venue. The entrance to the church is through the passage
from Old Town Square no. 14
 117
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Charles Bridge important as a trade route between
The 14th-century Charles Bridge east and west Europe. The bridge
(Karlův most) lined with Baroque was originally called Stone Bridge
statues ranks among the most po- or Prague Bridge, but has been
pular tourist attractions in the city. “Charles Bridge” since 1870.
Strolling this charming bridge, with King Charles IV‘s favourite architect
its impressive vistas over Prague and builder, Peter Parléř, built the
Castle and the Vltava River, is every- present-day bridge. The initial idea
body’s favourite activity. Unfortuna- was to build a functional construc-
tely Charles Bridge is a victim of its tion for jousting tournaments and for
own popularity – most of the time it many years the only decoration on
is packed with tourists and Czechs the bridge was a simple crucifix. But
alike, especially during the spring later, the desire of the Catholics for
and summer months. To avoid ornamentation resulted in 30 statues
crowds and snapshotting tourists being built between 1600 and 1800.
blocking stunning views, you have to Today most of the statues are co-
either wake up early or come late. To pies, due to damage caused by va-
experience the bridge with its most rious floods and catastrophes over
romantic, quiet atmosphere, mor- the centuries. Perhaps the most in-
ning is the best time to enjoy a less teresting statue, and oldest, is that
crowded walk, or to take a leisurely of St. John Nepomuk (number eight
stroll across the bridge with the im- from the right as you cross towards
pressively-lit streets of Prague in the the castle). Sculptures decorating
background at late evening. the bridge date back mainly to the
From 9am till late, expect souvenir Baroque period – from the 18th
stands and postcard sellers, as well century. The most remarkable sta-
as an endless variety of street mu- tues were created by Matyáš Braun
sicians playing their hearts out for and F. M. Brokoff.
you as you stroll across. You can The Bridge, which is 516 metres
even have your portrait drawn by (1692 feet) long, contains 16 pillars
caricaturists, which makes a nice and three bridge towers. One of the
souvenir to bring back home. towers, the Old Town Bridge Tower,
The famous Charles Bridge crosses is considered to be the most beauti-
the River Vltava in Prague. This “so- ful bridge tower in Europe due to its
lid-land” connection made Prague rich sculptural decoration.
118
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n The place on Charles Bridge, where St. John of Nepomuk was thrown in the river
in the year 1393, is connected with a nice legend. Touch the brassy cross here – and
whatever you wish, it will come true!

 119
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Statue of St. John of
Nepomuk, Charles Bridge
In 1683 the Jesuits placed a
statue of John of Nepomuk
on Charles Bridge as part of
a campaign to create a Bo-
hemian Catholic martyr. The
real Jan of Nepomuk had
been an ambitious vicar who
was killed in 1393 in the po-
wer struggles between King
Vaclav IV and his archbishop.
The Jesuits devised a more
saintly tale, claiming he died
for refusing to divulge the
queen’s confession, and that
when he was thrown from
Charles Bridge, five stars
appeared where he drowned.
When his body was exhumed
in 1719 his tongue, which
had become his saintly attri-
bute, was found miraculous-
ly preserved, pink and fresh.
He was made a saint in 1729
and his statue can be found
on bridges throughout Cent-
ral Europe.
Legend says that if you rub
the bronze plaque at the base
of the statue, you will be sure
to return to Prague one day,
and countless tourists’ palms
have given the panel a bright
golden sheen.
120
 Lesse
r Town S
quare

Old Town Square 


Charles Bridge
121
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

New Town (Nové Město) street that was the traditional divi-
New Town – southwest of Old Town, ding line between Old Town and New
with Wenceslas Square in its centre Town, and is a good place to do your
is now the commercial and admi- shopping. Wenceslas Square is also
nistrative heart of the city. It is the full of modern shops, restaurants,
fourth, and last, of Prague‘s towns casinos and exchange offices. The
which closed the medieval develo- Dancing House, located on the New
pment of Prague. Despite its name, Town embankment, is an example of
this quarter is relatively old. Founded modern architecture. The architects
by Charles IV in the mid-14th centu- of this building received a prestigi-
ry, the town expanded rapidly. At the ous international award.
same time the Emperor initiated the
construction of numerous monaste- Getting around New Town
ries, churches and squares within Probably the most convenient me-
New Town‘s borders. The largest tro stops for this area are Muzeum
enclosed square in New Town, this (at top of Wenceslas Square), and
was once the largest town square of Můstek (at the bottom of Wence-
medieval Europe and is now called slas Square) with intersections for
Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí). all lines (A, B and C). Alternatively
Until the time of the Hussite wars, Karlovo náměstí, on line B, also lies
a religious pilgrimage of European within this district.
importance called “The Showing of
Sacraments, Imperial Coronation
Jewels and Sacred Remains” took
place here every year. This is why the
square was planned to cover such
an extensive area. However, the pre-
sent centre of New Town is definitely
Wenceslas Square, the main thorou-
ghfare of Prague, originally used as a
horse market. The majestic National
Museum and statue of St. Wenceslas
on horseback dominate this long
boulevard (square is not really an
exact description). Na Příkopě is the n New Town Hall (Charles Square)
122
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Wenceslas Square ue a plaque stands in memory of
The south end of Na Příkopě meets those who were killed during the
Wenceslas Square (Václavské communist period, including Jan
náměstí) – the 750-metre long Palach, a 20-year-old student,
and 60-metre wide boulevard. It who set fire to himself in Janu-
was first laid out over 600 years ary 1969 in protest of the Soviet
ago in Charles IV’s period when invasion four months earlier. Jan
it was used as a horse market. Palach died three days later with
Since then, the square has been 85% burns. 800,000 people fol-
a regular parade ground for eve- lowed the funeral.
ry kind of person, organisation Following the collapse of Commu-
or political party known in the nist rule in December 1989, Václav
Czech Republic. The square can, Havel and Alexander Dubček ap-
and has before, comfortably held peared on the balcony of number
400,000 people. In the upper part 36 to greet their ecstatic supporters.
of the boulevard, the statue of St. Palach and other victims of the re-
Wenceslas on his horse can be gime are commemorated in a small
seen. A few metres from the stat- shrine in front of Josef Myslbek‘s
 123
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n National Museum (closed for renovation until 2018)

equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas. Na Příkopě
Today, Wenceslas Square is a hus- If there is to be only one street in
tle and bustle of commerce. It re- Prague symbolising a shopping
ally comes alive after dark, when paradise, it would be Na Příkopě
its restaurants, cinemas and night- Street, slanting down from Re-
clubs attract tourist crowds. public Square and the Powder
The major historical sites are all Tower to the northern tip of
within walking distance of the Wenceslas Square. Chain-stores,
street and are worth walking step- restaurants and shopping cen-
by step. At the northern end of tres dominate the scene, while
the square, you can find the Neo- modern art installations appear
Renaissance National Museum. in the summer. However, this
Another significant building is Ko- street became a real shopping
runa Palace – a covered shopping centre only after the opening of
arcade with a stunning glass dome shopping passages built at the
dating from 1911. end of the 1990s.
124
e
ous
lH
pa
nici
Mu

 125
Wenceslas Square
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Municipal House and decoration carefully considered,
Prague’s most exuberant and sen- every painting and sculpture loaded
sual building stands on the site of with symbolism. The mosaic above
the Royal Court, seat of the Bo- the entrance, Homage to Prague, is
hemian kings from 1383 to 1483, set between sculptures represen-
which was demolished at the end ting the oppression and rebirth of
of the 19th century. the Czech people, other sculptures
Between 1906 and 1912, the Mu- ranged along the top of the façade
nicipal House was built in its place represent history, literature, pain-
– a lavish joint effort of around 30 ting, music and architecture.
leading artists of the day, creating You pass beneath a wrought-iron and
a cultural centre that was the archi- stained-glass canopy into an interi-
tectural climax of the Czech Natio- or that is art nouveau right down to
nal Revival. the doorknobs (you can look around
Restored in the 1990s, after deca- the lobby and the downstairs bar for
des of neglect during the commu- free). The restaurant and the café
nist era, the entire building was a flanking the entrance are like walk-in
labour of love, every detail of design museums of art nouveau design.

126
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Upstairs are half a dozen sumptu- border guards) as beady-eyed Os-
ously decorated halls and assembly tražitost (vigilance).
rooms that you can visit on a guided On 28 October 1918, an indepen-
tour (90 minutes, three or four per dent Czechoslovak Republic was
day), which can be booked at the declared in Smetana Hall, and in
building’s information centre (throu- November 1989 meetings took pla-
gh the main entrance, and around to ce here between the Civic Forum
the left of the stairs). The first stop and the Jakeš regime.
on the tour is Smetana Hall, Prague’s The Prague Spring (Pražské jaro)
biggest concert hall, with seating for music festival always opens on
1,200 people spread out beneath a 12 May, the anniversary of Smeta-
glass art nouveau dome. The stage na’s death, with a procession from
is framed by sculptures representing Vyšehrad to the Municipal House
the Vyšehrad legend (to the right) followed by a gala performance of
and Slavonic dances (to the left). his symphony Má Vlast (My Count-
Several impressive official apart- ry) in Smetana Hall.
-ments follow, but the highlight of the  7:30am to 11pm
tour is the octagonal Lord Mayor’s Adult/discounted CZK 290/240
Hall (Primátorský sál), whose win-
dows overlook the main entrance.
Every aspect of its decoration was
designed by Alfons Mucha, who also
painted the superbly moody murals
adorning the walls and ceiling.
Above you is an allegory of Slavic
concord, with intertwined figures
representing the various Slavic pe-
oples watched over by the Czech
eagle. Figures from Czech history
and mythology, representing civic
virtues, occupy the spaces between
the eight arches, including Jan Hus
as Spravedlnost (justice), Jan Žižka
as Bojovnost (military prowess) and
the Chodové (medieval Bohemian n Smetana Hall
 127
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Old Jewish Quarter Josefov Old-New Synagogue – the early
The Jewish Quarter is a small Gothic 13th-century building, and
area known as Josefov which the oldest synagogue in Europe.
contains the remains of Prague‘s  Červená 2
former Jewish ghetto between Pinkas Synagogue – this is the
Old Town Square and the River gateway to the Jewish cemetery.
Vltava. Josefov was named after Under the Communist regime, the
the emperor Josef II, whose re- building was closed and all the na-
forms helped to ease living con- mes of holocaust victims inscribed
ditions for the Jewish population. on the walls were erased. Later, all
There are two figures here syno- 77,927 names were restored and
nymous with this part of the city, now they cover the entire interior.
Franz Kafka (1883–1924) and  Široká 3
the mystical homunculus Golem High Synagogue – so-called be-
created by Jehuda ben Bezalel, cause its prayer hall is closed to the
also known as Rabi Löw. Most public. Located directly across from
of it can be walked around in a the Old-New Synagogue.
single day. Klaus Synagogue and Ceremo-
nial Hall – both host exhibitions on
Getting around Josefov Jewish traditions and customs such
The Jewish Quarter is quite a as birth, circumcision, bar mitzvah
heavily visited location in Prague, and marriage. U starého hřbitova 3a
especially in peak tourist season, Maisel Synagogue – history of
when its tiny streets are packed Jews in Bohemia and Moravia.
with visitors. The area is quite  Maiselova 10
small and very compact, so a fairly The Spanish Synagogue – the his-
thorough tour should take less than tory of Jews from emancipation to
half a day. Due to the proximity to the present.  Vězeňská 1
Old Town Square, the best way to Jubilee Synagogue – situated out-
visit is on foot. side the Jewish Quarter, close to the
main railway station. The Jubilee Sy-
Prague Ghetto nagogue was built in 1905-06 in Art
The Old Jewish Cemetery – with Nouveau and pseudo-Moorish styles
the tomb of Rabbi Löw. as compensation for demolished sy-
 Entrance on Široká nagogues in the Jewish Quarter.
128
Ceremonial Hall – permanent
exhibition of the Jewish Museum

 129
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

 Visitor Center and Ticket sales:
Maiselova 15 (you can also hire a
guide and buy refreshments here)
Museum Only: Adult/discounted
CZK 300/200; Entrance fee for all
sites: Adult/discounted CZK 480/320
 9am-6pm Sun-Fri Apr-Oct, 9am-
-4:30pm Sun-Fri Nov-Mar, closed on
Jewish holidays and on Saturdays
n Jubilee Synagogue
Mysterious Jewish Quarter
Tales, legends and other such myste-
ries have been woven around a good
many places in Prague. One of the
most interesting is about Golem. It is
said that in the attic of the Old-New
Synagogue, the Golem is hidden – a
mighty being made of clay that was,
according to legend, created by Rabbi
Löw to protect the Jewish Quarter.
n Spanish Synagogue The Golem is inextricably linked to the
mysterious atmosphere of old Prague.

Pařížská Street
Pařížská Street, the ultimate bour-
geois avenue, thanks to its locati-
on, has always been a street with
a high concentration of luxurious
shops, swanky cafés, restaurants
and bars. This street runs off Old
Town Square to the River Vltava
and bisects the Jewish Quarter. It is
an easy walk from some of the best
n The Old Jewish Cemetery five-star hotels in Prague.
130
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n Agnes of Bohemia tending the sick by the Bohemian Master from 1482

St. Agnes Convent unearthed, including the tomb of
The convent was founded in 1234 King Wenceslas I in the Church of
by Agnes, sister of King Wenceslas I. St Francis (which is now used as a
It was completed at the end of the concert venue). Today the convent
14th century but the convent was house serves as a division of The
eventually dissolved in 1782. An National Gallery that exhibits ex-
ambitious restoration programme cellent medieval art from Bohemia
was undertaken in the 1990s. The and Central Europe (1200-1550).
most remarkable building is the Among the highlights are works
Church of the Holy Saviour, an ex- by various artists: the Master of
ceptional example of early Gothic the Vyšší Brod Altar, Master of the
architecture. Look out for the ca- Michle Madonna, Master Theodo-
pitals, which are highly decorated ric, Master of the Litoměřice Altar,
with reliefs showing the rulers of Master of the Altar of the Knights
the Přemyslid dynasty. During res- of the Cross.
toration, the burial place of some  U Milosrdných 17, Josefov
of these kings and queens was  Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
 131
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Franz Kafka
Even if you have never heard about
Franz Kafka and have never read
one of his books (novels The Trial,
America and The Castle have been
translated into several languages),
you will surely notice his presence
while visiting Prague. T-shirts, pos-
ters and mugs carrying the writer’s
image are available at every souve-
nir shop across Prague.
Kafka was a Czech Jew who wrote in
German and was a citizen of the Aus-
tro-Hungarian Empire at birth, and a
citizen of the newly-formed nation of
Czechoslovakia. He was born in Pra-
gue on July 3, 1883, right above the
Batalion Schnapps bar on the corner
of Maiselova and Kaprova. Kafka spent
most of his life living in and around Jo-
sefov (Prague’s Jewish Quarter), stu-
dying at a German school on Old Town
n Franz Kafka Statue
Square and working as an accident
insurance clerk, until he was forced
to retire through ill health in 1922. He Kosher Food
died of tuberculosis at the age of 40 in The Dinitz Kosher Restaurant
a sanatorium just outside Vienna two is very low-key and the most
years later, but his body was returned affordable kosher restaurant
for burial in Prague‘s New Jewish Ce- within the Jewish Quarter.
metery (Olšanské cemetery).  Bílkova 12
To learn more about Kafka, visit the ex- The more elaborate King Solo-
position dedicated to his life at Cihelná mon Restaurant represents a
2b. Open daily 10am-6pm. Entrance better deal for Shabbat cuisine.
fee: Adult/discounted CZK 200/120.  Široká 8
 www.kafkamuseum.cz
132
Classic River Boat

207

5,8,24,26,5
1,54,56


Mee
tin
Poin g
t

133
Josefov / Jewish Quarter
Municipal House
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Petřín Hill Czech Tourist Club at the 1891 Jubi-
Only a stone’s throw away from lee Exhibition, it was later transferred
Prague Castle is Petřín Hill, perfect to Petřín Hill and turned into a hall of
for a summer walk away from the mirrors. It is a favourite spot for chil-
bustle of tourists. Part of the hillside dren. The hill is 327 metres high. For
is set aside for an apple and a pear those less energetic, a funicular rai-
orchard from which the fruit can be lway will save you trouble of a climb
freely picked from the trees. Much of (for the price of a normal tram ticket).
the stone used in building the major Petřín Hill is also easily accessible on
sights in Prague was quarried out foot from Hradčany and Strahov.
of Petřín. However, today this is not
noticeable beneath the trees and Funicular Railway
gardens. The observation tower and to Petřín Hill
a manicured garden dominate the Just opposite Újezd tram stop
summit, and halfway down is the fa- (trams 12, 22) in Lesser Town,
mous restaurant Nebozízek – where the railway runs daily from 9am
you can enjoy a meal with a perfect to 11:30pm (11:20pm from No-
view of Prague. Do not forget the vember to March) in 10-15 min.
hall of mirrors for a new and varied intervals. The charming Victori-
perspective of yourself – The Petřín an Funicular is very popular.
Hill Maze. Originally a pavilion of the
134
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Petřin to Strahov Walk Petřínské sady and Lesser Town
Take the funicular railway up to can be reached from the funicular‘s
Prague‘s best picnic spot, Petřín second stop.
Hill, which is also very popular with  www.nebozizek.cz
joggers, dog-walkers, lovers and
families. From here you have mag- Vrtba Garden
nificent vistas across the “city of Vrtba Garden is situated on the slo-
100 spires”, and the panorama gets pe of Petřín Hill and is one of the
better as you follow the trail down most precious and beautiful of Pra-
and around to Strahov Monastery. gue‘s Baroque gardens.

Petřín Look-Out Tower
This iron tower, 60m (196 feet) tall,
was built in 1891 by F. Prášil for
the Jubilee Exhibition as a copy of
the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It has 299
steps that lead up to the top plat-
form, or if you feel tired you might
use the comfortable lift instead.

Hall of Mirrors
Fun for all located on Petřín Hill. This
pavilion was built in 1891 for the
Jubilee Exhibition, and later trans-
ferred to Petřín. There is a dioramic
picture commemorating the battle
of students with Swedes on Charles
Bridge in 1648 and the subsequent-
ly constructed hall of mirrors.

Nebozízek Restaurant
The food is not that great but the n Petřín Look-Out Tower
views from the terrace are specta-
cular. The restaurant is often full, so
to ensure seating reserve a table.
 135
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Lesser Town (Malá Strana) restaurants, shops and quaint, tiny
Lying below the castle and re- cottages, crumbling with age.
aching across to the banks of
the Vltava is Lesser Town (Malá Getting around Lesser Town
Strana). It is certainly no less of a The metro‘s A-line Malostranská
beautiful town, it is called Lesser station will take you to Lesser Town,
Town because traditionally it was it is the most central stop. But there
the smaller half of Prague, the half is no better way to arrive in Lesser
in which the king lived, and the Town than after a nice downhill
half away from the bustle of the walk from the castle or a popular
markets on the other side. Today stroll from Old Town across Charles
Lesser Town is a maze of narrow Bridge, along Mostecká street lea-
cobblestoned streets, winding ding to Lesser Town Square. Alter-
their way between historical mo- natively take tram 22 from Národní
numents - including the beautiful třída (just next to the National The-
Baroque St. Nicholas’ Church. atre) and in two stops get off just
Pleasant hours can be spent strol- below the Petřín funicular railway
ling among the multitude of cafés, to Petřín Hill.
136
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

St. Nicholas’ Church
This exquisite Baroque church was
built between 1704 and 1755 by
Kilian Dientzenhofer. It is one of the
most beautiful Baroque churches in
Europe. The splendid dome is 70m
high. The 79m-tall belfry is directly
connected with the church’s massive
dome. The belfry, with its great pano-
ramic view, was - unlike the church
- completed in Rococo form over
1751-1756 by Anselmo Lurago. The
Rococo pulpit with angels and che-
rubs was made by Peter and Richard
Prachner in 1765. Inside is a Baroque
organ from 1746 which was played
by Mozart when he was in Prague.
Four years later it was played at a
funeral mass in his memory. St. Ni-
cholas’ Church is also a very popular
concert venue during the summer.
 Lesser Town Square 38
 Daily 9am-5pm (on Tue till 6pm)
Mar-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb
CZK 70

n Cupola of St. Nicholas Church

The belfry of the St. Nicolas‘
Church is open to the public
and offers a beautiful view of
the Lesser Town.

 137
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Church of Our Lady Victorious
This church is world-famous
thanks to the Prague Bambino –
Infant Jesus wax figure (of Spa-
nish origin), which was presen-
ted to the church by Polyxena of
Lobkowicz (1628). The Church of
Our Lady Victorious, built in 1613,
has on its central altar a 47cm-tall
waxwork figure of the baby Jesus.
Known as the Infant Jesus of Pra-
gue (Pražské Jezulátko), it is said
to have protected Prague from the
plague and from the destruction
of the Thirty-Year War. An 18th
century German prior, ES Stepha-
no, wrote about the miracles, kic-
king off what eventually became
a worldwide cult, today the sta-
tue is visited by a steady stream
of pilgrims, especially from Italy,
Spain and Latin America. It was n Infant Jesus
traditional to dress the figure in
beautiful robes and over the years pies of the wax figure. Looking at
various benefactors have donated all this, you cannot help thinking
richly embroidered dresses. Today about the Second Commandment
the infant’s wardrobe consists of (“Thou shalt not make unto thee
more than 70 costumes donated any graven image…”) and the
from all over the world, these are objectives of the Reformation. Jan
changed regularly in accordance Hus must be turning in his grave.
with a religious calendar. At the  Karmelitská 9, Lesser Town
back of the church is the muse-  Church 8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat &
um, displaying a selection of the 8:30am-8pm Sun, museum 9:30am-
frocks used to dress the infant. 5:30pm Mon-Sat & 1-6pm Sun
Shops in the street nearby sell co- Admission free
138
 Prague Castle Church of Our
Lady Victorious

Petřin
Look-Out
Tower
12,20,22,57

třin Hill
r Railway to Pe
Funicula


Petřín Hill
Hladová zeď (Hunger Wall)

139
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n The Three Fiddles – one of many beautiful house signs on Nerudova Street

Nerudova Street The Red Eagle, The Golden Hor-
If you head west from Lesser Town seshoe, The Green Lobster or The
Square to Prague Castle you will White Swan. Many houses are now
pass through the beautifully pictu- used as cafés, wine bars and pubs.
resque Nerudova Street named af- Several large Baroque palaces
ter Jan Neruda. He was a famous are also situated in this street, for
Czech poet who lived at the house example, Thun Palace (the Italian
called ‘At the Two Suns‘ (which is Embassy) and Morzin Palace (the
no.47). All the houses in Prague Romanian Embassy). The façade
used to be marked by house sig- of Morzin Palace is decorated with
ns until 1770 when a new way of two huge statues of Moors holding
numbering was introduced. The a round balcony. Another impre-
houses in Nerudova Street bear an ssive facade belongs to the Thea-
extraordinary selection of heraldic tine Church of Our Lady. The Order
beasts and house signs. Climbing of Theatines was founded during
up this steep street you will notice counter-reformation times.
140
 Prague Castle

,57
2
0,2
,2
12

Charles Bridge 


Lesser Town
141
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Lennon Wall of Lennon is long lost under layers
Lennon Wall was an ordinary wall of spray paint. It is located at Vel-
in Prague, but since John Lennon‘s kopřevorské náměstí (Grand Priory
death Prague‘s youth have cove- Square), Lesser Town.
red it with John Lennon inspired
graffiti and Beatles lyrics.
In 1988 the wall was a source of ir-
ritation for a communist regime of
Gustav Husák. Young Czechs would
write grievances on the wall and a
government report written about it
at this time led to a clash between
hundreds of students and security
police on nearby Charles Bridge.
The text on the wall is continuously n The Memorial to the victims of Com-
changing and the original portrait munism located at the base of Petřín Hill
142
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Dancing House
The Dancing House, nicknamed
‘Fred and Ginger’ is an office
building in downtown Prague.
It was built in 1997 by Croatian
born Czech architect Vlado Milu-
nič in co-operation with American
architect Frank Gehry. It was built
on a vacant riverfront plot, next
to a building owned by Czech
playwright and former president
Václav Havel, whose strong sup-
port for avant-garde architecture
was instrumental in getting the
controversial design approved
and built. Known in Czech as Tan-
čící dům (‘the Dancing House’),
this building vaguely resembles
a pair of dancers and stands out,
but without clashing with, the There is a highly-rated French re-
Neo-Baroque, Neo-Gothic and Art staurant on the roof with magni-
Nouveau buildings that Prague is ficent views over the Vltava river
famous for. The building’s tenants and the castle. French fine cuisine,
include several multinational firms. with seafood and meat dishes and
a few vegetarian main courses, is
on the menu. The crisply formal
atmosphere is perfect for a special
celebration.
 The junction where Resslova meets
the river at Rašínovo nábřeží 80. The
restaurant is located on the 7th floor
 Daily Noon-11pm
Mains are reasonably priced
(from CZK 365 to CZK 600)
 www.tancici-dum.cz
 143
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Vyšehrad
Vyšehrad, sometimes referred to as
“Prague‘s second castle”, is another
of the Czech Republic‘s fine castles.
It was built in the 10th century on a
hill over the River Vltava and within
the castle grounds is the Church
of St. Paul and St. Peter, as well as
Vyšehrad Cemetery, containing the
remains of many famous people from
Czech history.
The castle‘s centrepiece is the dens surrounding Vyšehrad Church
church, whose blackened shape are peaceful and nicely manicured.
stands grandly upon the hill over- There are some nice views of the
looking the River Vltava. Vltava, a couple of restaurants to
Every inch of the interior is immac- visit and some enormous statues
ulately covered with decorations depicting figures from Czech my-
much like those on the pages of an thology to examine. Any time of day
illustrated manuscript, thus making is a good time to visit. Take a morn-
it one of the most beautiful interiors ing off from sightseeing and bring
in Prague. A small fee is required a picnic lunch. Not many areas
for this viewing pleasure. in Prague are as quiet, green and
The Rotunda of St. Martin, dating peaceful as Vyšehrad.
from the 11th century, can be viewed
a short distance from the church to-
wards Vyšehrad metro station. It is How to get to Vyšehrad?
one of the original rotundas of the city. It is easily and quickly reach-
Vyšehrad is an alluring and pleas- able from the city centre on
ant walk lasting about 2 hours. Even metro line C to Vyšehrad (two
though it is situated close to the city stations from the National Mu-
centre, you will be in quiet surround- seum). From there, it is about
ings away from the traffic. Due to its a 10-minute walk to Vyšehrad’s
position on a high rock just above the main gate. The tour of the com-
Vltava River, it offers nice panoramic plex takes about 2 to 3 hours.
views over part of Prague. The gar-
144
River
Vltava

 145
Vyšehrad
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

Žižkov Television Tower its sides, crafted by the designer
The Žižkov TV Tower is Prague’s David Černý - but amongst locals it
controversial structure, standing is much disliked.
at two hundred and sixteen met- Started in the 1970s for the purpo-
res tall. Up close, it is an imposing, se of jamming Western German TV
post-modern style of architectural transmissions, this tower has only
design characterized by the dis- been completely operational since
turbing image of numerous giant the 1990s. During the process of
baby statues making their way up building it though, the Commu-
nists decided to destroy part of a
local Jewish graveyard which had
featured in the locale from 1787
to 1891; in the north-west of this
tower, however, a smaller part of
this graveyard still survives.
The three pods that are situated
directly underneath the tower’s top
decks are utilized for apparatus re-
lating to the structure’s main pur-
pose, and are not accessible to the
general public. The six pods that are
left are accessible to tourists, and
the tallest of these has observation
areas at one hundred metres, offe-
ring breathtaking views of Prague
and its surrounding areas.
Getting there: Catch the metro line
A to Jiřího z Poděbrad, then walk
north-east for two blocks – it is
hard not to see it.
 Observation deck and upper deck re-
staurant 8pm-midnight; Garden restaurant
9am-midnight; Café 8am-5pm
Adult/discounted CZK 180/CZK 120
 www.towerpark.cz
146
ATTRACTIONS – THE BEST TO SEE

n David Černý is a Jewish–Czech sculptor whose works can be seen in many loca-
tions in Prague. His works tend to be quite controversial
 147
CITY TOURS

148
Taking a walking tour around the city of
Prague is a great opportunity to see the sights
and to get to know the city. It can also lead
to lots of hidden places that you may not oth-
erwise have found without a guide. Prague
walking tours are an excellent way to become
acquainted with the city‘s rich history and ar-
chitectural beauty, especially if you are visiting
Prague for the first time.
Most of our walking tours leave daily from
Old Town Square in the city centre. If you would
rather not walk, we also offer some sightseeing
tours where our coach will pick you up from your
hotel and take you around the city in comfort.
Taking a leisurely cruise along the Vltava
can also be a great opportunity to see Prague’s
architectural gems from a different angle,
while enjoying lunch or dinner on the boat.
Most lunch cruises depart at noon, and dinner
cruises at 6:40pm.
Whether or not you are on a budget, consid-
er taking our free tour that will show you the
city‘s main highlights. It is a great introduction
to Prague and will also give you a great orien-
tation for your own further exploration.
If you are looking for something more flex-
ible and private, we can arrange a professional
English-speaking guide for you. The tour guide
can even tailor this walk to your special needs,
for example recommend a place where to stop
for lunch, including a river cruise or tram ride
if you are tired walking, etc. The guide can
pick you up at your hotel, or you can arrange
to meet anywhere in the city.
 149
CITY TOURS

Free Prague Walking
Tour (4-hour tour)
The tour starts on Old Town
Square with a general introduction
to Prague where we will admire the
impressive composition of the old
buildings and churches, we also
become acquainted with the life of
the Czech reformer Jan Hus.
Crooked lanes lead us back
around other keyholes into Prague’s
past: Mozart‘s Don Giovanni in
the Estates Theatre, Karolinum
–Charles University since 1348, the
cubist house of the Black Madonna
and the medieval courtyard Ungelt.
Next we continue on to visit the coming into Lesser Town Square,
Jewish Quarter that leads us back the highlight of which is the huge
to Prague’s tragic history. You dis- St. Nicholas’ Church.
cover the destiny of Prague’s Jews, After a relaxing visit to the
living behind the wall of the former church, we climb 200 steps lead-
ghetto. The Old-New Synagogue, ing to Hradčanské Square and
the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Jew- Prague Castle, the largest castle
ish Museum and follow in the foot- complex in Europe. This “city with-
steps of the famous Jewish writer in a city” hides Schwarzenberg
Franz Kafka. Palace, the Archbishop‘s Palace,
After this, we will have a the Old Royal Palace, the Basilica
30-minute break from 12:45pm to of St. George... and the greatest
1:15pm at Mariánské Square. After architectural treasure of all – St.
the break, you can continue the tour Vitus Cathedral. The walk finishes
or come back another day for the next to the Old Royal Palace with a
second half. charming view of Prague, the city
The second half starts at the of a hundred spires. It is really easy
beautiful baroque library of Kle- to walk, simple to understand and
mentinum. We cross Charles Bridge great to enjoy!
150
CITY TOURS

How Do I Claim My Free
Walking Tour?
When you use our airport transfer
service your driver will automatica-
lly give you what we call a ‘trans-
port voucher‘. This is your proof
of purchase of your Prague airport
transfer; all you need to do then is
bring your voucher and show it to
the tour guide to join the walking
tour. If you need transport to the
meeting point, we are happy to Private Guides
book this for you if you contact us We can arrange a professional
in advance. guide covering both Prague
itself and the whole Czech
Tour Details Republic for your tailor-made
TOUR DATE/TIME: Daily at 11:00am. tour. All our guides have a li-
Guided tour spoken only in English. cence and appropriate educa-
tion and certificates provided
PRICE: Free, if you use the transfer
by the Prague Information
from the airport, booked through
Service. We are able to man-
Prague Airport Transfers, our chau-
age a guide in most common
ffeur will automatically give you a
languages (including German,
“transport voucher”. All you need
Spanish, French, Dutch, Italian
to do is to bring your voucher and
and Russian). We charge one
show it to our tour guide.
fixed rate per hour, no matter
BOOKING INFORMATION: No pre- how many people are in your
-booking is necessary. Just show party, although we do recom-
up 10 minutes prior to the tour start mend a maximum group size
time. of 20 people per guide. Our
normal standard rate is from
WHERE DOES THE TOUR FINISH? CZK 500 per hour for most
It finishes at Prague Castle. Our tour common languages. Contact
guide will gladly navigate you back us for exact price offer.
to the city centre.
 151
CITY TOURS

Superior Tour of Prague Don Giovanni was introduced to
(6-hour tour) the world, and Charles Universi-
ty, the oldest university in Central
FULL DAY IN PRAGUE ON FOOT, BY Europe. On Wenceslas Square we
RIVER BOAT AND BY TRAM. see where the Velvet Revolution
This walk is a unique combination occurred in 1989.
of the very best aspects of each of After a typical Czech lunch served
our walks. Moving from the magical in a nice restaurant we take our
little web of alleys in Old Town past cruise. Prague Castle, crowning
the important milestones in the the top of a picturesque hill, Le-
history of the Jewish Quarter and sser Town, St.Nicholas’ Church – a
Wenceslas Square in New Town, Baroque jewel, Charles Bridge, the
the site of astonishing protests and National Theatre... Get unsurpassed
uprisings, we come to the river. views of all of Prague‘s treasures
Here we can enjoy a comfortable from the river!
cruise that shows us the most ro- After the cruise we come to the
mantic spots of Prague, such as Castle, the real heart of Prague.
Lesser Town or Prague Castle, from Your guide takes you through all
the most unusual angles. Then we the courtyards, shows you the Old
board the tram to ascend the hill to Royal Palace, the Basilica of St.
Prague Castle. George, the Royal Garden and the
As we stroll around the Jewish architectural gem of St.Vitus Ca-
Ghetto we can look into Jewish thedral. On this tour with a great
traditions and history. The ghetto is guide, you can peer into the past
formed of small houses and narrow from the 21st century.
alleys and attracts tourists with its
unique monuments – the Old Je- Tour Details
wish Cemetery, the Old-New Syna- TOUR DATE/TIME: Daily starting
gogue (still in use), and the Jewish at 11am.
Museum. PRICES: CZK 1500 per person.
We admire the rich history of the
Old Town with the marvellous INCLUDES: lunch, drinks, canal
Church of St. James, the me- cruise and a tram ride and optional
dieval customs yard Ungelt, the pickup from your hotel – free of
Estates Theatre where Mozart´s charge.
152
CITY TOURS

SUPERIOR TOUR OF PRAGUE

n Inclusive of 1-hour cruise
with refreshment

47%
DISCOUNT

SPECIAL OFFER – WHEN YOU BOOK A TRAN
SFER
FROM THE AIRPORT / TRAIN STATION PAY
JUST
CZK 770 (EUR 29) PER PERSON.
THIS TOUR SHOULD BE BOOKED IN ADVANCE.

n Tram ride to the Castle n Typical Czech lunch

 153
WHERE, WHEN AND HOW
TO JOIN US

154
Walks – Meeting Point Boat – Departure Point
The meeting point for all the walks The boat departure point is from
(except the Beer and Ghost Tour) Dvořákovo Quay, and the boat is
is on the corner of Paris Street located between Čechův Bridge
(Pařížská) and Old Town Square, op- and Štefánikův Bridge, closer to the
posite the St Nicholas Church next Štefánikuv Bridge. If you walk from
to the Czech Tourism office. You Old Town Square, follow Pařížská
might ask at your hotel reception Street and after ten minutes you
for exact directions. The Old Town reach the riverbank (Čechův Bridge)
Square is just a short walk from right next to the Intercontinental Ho-
Staroměstská metro or tram sta- tel. Then, walk down to the pier and
tion, and is one of the most famous walk another five minutes (to the
locations in Prague. Your guide right in relation to Prague Castle) un-
waits for you with a red Prague til you see Classic River boat. Please
Airport Transfers sign umbrella. be at the boat departure pier at least
Please turn up 10 minutes before 15 minutes before boat departure
the walk starts. For the Beer and time.
Ghost Tour, the pickup point is
from the Premiant Tour kiosk at Na Advanced Booking
Příkopě 23, which is five minutes’ Do I need to pre-book any of
walk from Wenceslas Square. those tours? Yes (except for our
free tour), we strongly recommend
making a booking early. Please call
us on freephone 800 870 888 (or
+420 222 554 211).

Bus Excursions
– Pickup Point
The pickup point is from Na Přikopě
23 (a 5-minute walk from Wenc-
eslas Square). If you also booked
transportation to the excursion, the
driver will pick you up directly at
the hotel reception.
 155
DAY TRIPS

Kutná
156 Hora
If you are staying in Prague To follow the offbeat track
for more than a few days or it’s head to the Mělník, just about
not your first visit, it’s a good 40 km north of Prague, where
idea to see other amazing plac- the Lobkowicz family’s Mělník
es outside of Prague. Chateau can be found. It over-
West of Prague, you can soak looks the Labe and Vltava rivers
in the soothing natural thermal and has a vineyard that has pro-
springs of Karlovy Vary or Mar- duced grapes for centuries.
iánské Lázně. This area produc- When going south, a must-
es some of the finest glass and visit is the medieval town of Český
porcelain pieces in the world. Krumlov. This picturesque historical
South-west of Prague lies the town, tinged with romance, has
city of beer, Plzeň. The city has been, not unjustifiably, the second
become famous throughout the most visited in the Czech Republic.
world thanks to the excellent Some sights outside of Prague
Pilsner Urquell beer, brewed are different, unique even. Take
here since 1295. The guided tour Konopiště Chateau, for example.
of the cellars (there are 9km) in- Here you can witness the hunting
cludes a visit to the extravagant- obsession of Archduke Ferdinand
ly decorated beer hall, definitely by touring the Trophy Corridor
an experience not to be missed. and Chamois Room and seeing
Head north out of Prague and the thousands of stuffed heads,
you enter the side of the Republic antlers and skulls of his trophies.
with a dark past – the holocaust. And then there is Kutná Hora.
Located here are two painful re- Visiting this town gives you an
minders, Lidice and Terezín. Lid- opportunity to explore a medie-
ice was destroyed by the Nazis in val silver mine. Put on your hel-
vengeance for Reichsprotektor Re- met with light and get started!
inhard Heydrich‘s assassination. Finally, a bizarre experience is
Terezín was a former Czech Jew visiting the Sedleč Ossuary at
concentration camp. One hundred Kutná Hora, where your spine
and forty thousand people passed will tingle looking at the decora-
through here, but fewer than 11% tions which have been made out
survived until the end of the war. of the bones of 40,000 people.
 157
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES
Kutná Hora
(5.5-hour tour)
A medieval centre of silver-mining,
this was the second richest town
in the Bohemian Kingdom. The
variety of Kutná Hora architectural
monuments and the well preserved
structure of the town-centre reflect
its ancient fame and wealth, which
has lasted until the present day. n St. Barbara’s Cathedral
During our walk, we will visit the
gothic cathedral of St. Barbara
and the Italian Court – originally
a Royal Mint. No less admirable
are the other beautiful gothic,
renaissance and baroque burgher
houses and the unique stone well
from the 15th century.

n Sedlec Ossuary

TOUR DATE/TIME: Daily starting
at 1pm.
PRICES: CZK 990 per person.
INCLUDES: Entrance fees to St.
Barbara‘s Cathedral, the Italian
Court and Sedlec Ossuary.
Optional free pickup from your
n Italian Court hotel.
158
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE – PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Kutná Hora
(6.5-hour private tour)

n St. Barbara’s Cathedral

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time:
from 9am to 2pm. Free time
n The plague Column of the Virgin Mary
at the destination amounts to
3 to 4 hours, which is enough
time to see the city on foot.
PRICES: Prices shown are
for a whole group.
1-4 people – CZK 3 120.
5-8 people – CZK 3 860.
EXCLUDES: Tour Guide and
entrance fees to St Barbara’s
Cathedral, the Italian Court and
Ossuary.
n Human skulls in the Ossuary
 159
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES
Karlovy Vary
(9.5-hour tour)
This spa town‘s history goes back
to the 14th century, the time of
Charles IV. Such celebrities as
Russia’s Caesar Peter the Gre-
at or world famous poet Johann
Wolfgang von Goethe praised the
healing effects of the town‘s local
mineral springs. This town is also
famous for the production of the
world-famous Bohemian crystal
Moser, for local china production
known as Karlovarský porcelán
(Karlovy Vary porcelain) and for the n The best-known spring of Vřídlo
production of a delicious herb spirit
called Becherovka.

TOUR DATE/TIME: Daily starting
at 8:45am.
PRICES: CZK 1 590 per person.
INCLUDES: Fully-guided tour,
lunch and Moser glass factory
tour.
n Baroque colonnade
160
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Karlovy Vary
(7 or 9-hour private tour)

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time:
from 7am to 1pm. There are two
different lengths of tours – one
seven hours in duration, and the
other nine hours. With the short
tour, there are three hours of
free time at the destination, and
with the longer tour there are
five hours of free time.
7-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 3 600.
5-8 people – CZK 4 400.
9-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 4 000.
5-8 people – CZK 5 000.
EXCLUDES: Tour guide and
entrance fees.
n Thermal mineral water
 161
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES

Český Krumlov
(9-hour tour)
This historical centre and medieval
town is formed of narrow and
winding little streets with a number
of gothic, renaissance and baroque
houses that originated as mansions
of such noble families as the
Rožmberks, the Schwarzenbergs TOUR DATE/TIME:
and the Eggenbergs. You will walk Daily at 8:45am (except Monday).
through the town accompanied PRICES: CZK 1 890 per person.
by our guide and have lunch in a INCLUDES: Lunch and entrance
medieval tavern. In the summer fees and a free optional pickup
months, a visit to the local castle is from your hotel.
included.
162
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Český Krumlov
(8.5 or 11-hour private tour)

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time:
from 7am to 1pm. There are two
different lengths of tours – one
is 8½ hours in duration, and the
other is 11 hours.
PRICES: Prices quoted are for a
whole group.
8½-hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 4 500.
5-8 people – CZK 5 700.
11 hour tour:
1-4 people – CZK 5 000.
5-8 people – CZK 6 200.
EXCLUDES: Tour guide and any
entrance fees. Castle entrance
fee varies from CZK 35 to CZK
300 per person.
n Český Krumlov Castle walls
 163
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES

n Terezín Memorial
Terezín of the International Red Cross Or-
(5-hour tour) ganisation it was misused for Nazi
If you are interested in the history promotion purposes. The small Fort
of World War II and the holocaust, Terezín was a cruel prison of the
this tour is for you. The former mi- Gestapo – the Reich‘s secret police.
litary fort of Terezín was built in the
18th century by Emperor Joseph II TOUR DATE/TIME: Daily starting
and will always be connected with at 9am.
the history of World War II. Better PRICES: CZK 1150 per person.
known as the Big Fort, the town of INCLUDES: Free pickup from
Terezín itself was used as a transit your hotel (optional) and all
camp for Jews from all over Europe entrance fees.
and at the same time during visits
164
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Terezín
(5-hour private tour)

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time:
from 8am to 2pm. Free time at
destination: 3 hrs 20 min (tour of
Terezín memorial complex takes
about 1 hr 30 min to 2 hours).
PRICES: Prices shown are for a
whole group.
1-4 people – CZK 2 300.
5-8 people – CZK 2 900.
EXCLUDES: Memorial tour
guide and entrance fees. Terezin
Memorial entrance fee is CZK
200 and is paid directly by the
customer.

 165
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES
Pilsner Urquell Brewery
(7-hour tour)
Beer has been brewed in Pilsen sin-
ce time immemorial, and the first
written records of brewing here are
associated with the very foundation
of the town of Pilsen. This excursion
will take you to the Brewery Muse-
um, which has collections relating
to trades, guilds and beer-brewing
history, and to the bottling plant and
historical cellars, where you will tas-
te fresh beer brewed according to an
ancient recipe that many breweries
around the world have been trying
to emulate for ages. You will see the
brewing room, the malthouse, the
lager cellars – all the places associ-
ated with freshly brewed beer.

TOUR DATE/TIME: This tour
starts at 11am and only
operates on Mon., Wed. and Sat.
PRICES: CZK 1 090 per person.
INCLUDES: Entrance fee and
optional pickup from your hotel.
166
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Pilsner Urquell Brewery
(6-hour private tour)

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time:
from 10am to 1pm.
Free time at destination: 4
hours. This is sufficient to visit
the Pilsen Brewery (including
Brewery Museum), have lunch,
and still have time for a quick
visit to the city centre. The city
can be easily seen on foot.
PRICES: Prices shown are for a
whole group.
1-4 people – CZK 3200.
5-8 people – CZK 4000.
EXCLUDES: Entrance fees to
the Pilsen Brewery or any other
entrance fees, which should be
paid directly by the customer.
 167
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES

Karlštejn also with the life of Charles IV and
(4-hour tour) art during his reign.
Karlštejn is one of the most vis-
ited Czech castles, built by Em- TOUR DATE/TIME:
peror Charles IV between 1348 Daily except Monday at 9:50
and 1355. This Gothic castle am and also every Tuesday,
served as a depository of royal Thursday, Saturday, Sunday at
and imperial jewels and corona- 14:15 pm. During January and
tion jewels, and also as an ar- February the castle is closed,
chive of state documents. After except from 1st-9th January.
climbing the hill you will take an PRICES: CZK 890 per person.
hour-long sight-seeing tour of INCLUDES: Free pickup from
the Karlštejn castle interior. Your your hotel (optional) and all
guide will acquaint you with not entrance fees.
only the history of the castle, but
168
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Karlštejn
(4-hour private tour) Our private excursions are
completely flexible and even
your itinerary can be tailored
to exactly what you want to
see. As well as being able
to adjust your itinerary on
a private tour, you can also
choose your own time for
your tour, and how much time
you spend at each attraction
(if you want to cut your tour
short, or extend your time,
for example, we’ll adjust the
price/waiting fee on the spot).

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time
is from 9am to 2pm, except
Mondays when the castle is
closed (also closed during the
winter months of January and
February).
PRICES: 1-4 people – CZK 1 600.
5-8 people – CZK 2 000.
EXCLUDES: Tour Guide and
entrance fees are not included.
Castle entrance fee starts at
CZK 250 for a guided 50 to
60-minute tour.

 169
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ REGULARLY ORGANISED EXCURSION
SHARED WITH OTHERS, GUIDED AND INCLUDING ALL FEES

Dresden palace of Zwinger and the Art Gal-
(11-hour tour) lery you can admire the “Sixtin
From a fishing village, Dres- Madonna”, the famous picture by
den grew into a spa and a royal Raphael, as well as many notable
residence, and later became the works by the Old Masters from the
capital of Saxony. The galler- 14th to 17th centuries (Rubens,
ies of Zwinger and Albertinum, Rembrandt, Poussin etc.).
the Hofkirche and Frauenkirche
churches, and Semper‘s Opera TOUR DATE/TIME:
are among the most important This tour starts at 8.45am and
sights of Dresden. During the 2nd only operates on Wed. and Sat.
World War the city was completely PRICES: CZK 1 650 per person.
destroyed by a massive bombard- INCLUDES: Free pickup from
ment, but was renovated and your hotel (optional).
rebuilt. In the famous Baroque
170
DAY TRIPS

❱❱ FLEXIBLE-PRIVATE EXCURSION
ON DEMAND ANYTIME YOU WISH, EXCLUSIVE OF ENTRANCE FEES AND GUIDE
Dresden
(10-hour private tour)

TOUR DATE/TIME:
Recommended pick-up time
is from 7am to 11am.
PRICES:
1-4 people – CZK 4 320.
5-8 people – CZK 5 310.
EXCLUDES: Tour Guide and
entrance fees are not included.

 171
THE CZECH LANGUAGE
Survival English-to-Czech Dictionary
Do you speak English? – Mluvíte anglicky? – (mlu-veete an-glits-ki?)
Hello – Dobrý den – (dobree den)
Thank you – Děkuji – (yekooyee / je-koo-yi)
Good morning – Dobré ráno – (dobreh rahno)
Good evening – Dobrý večer – (dobreh vehcher)
Good Night – Dobrou noc – (dobroh nots)
Good bye – Na shledanou – (nas-klehdanoh)
Excuse me – Promiňte – (prominyte)
My name is – Jmenuji se … – (ymeenooye se)
Nice to meet you – Těší mě – (tye-shee mye)
How much? – Kolik? – (kolik)
How long? – Jak dlouho? – (yak dlow-ho)
Where is … ? – Kde je … ? – (gde ye)
I’d like … – Chtěl bych … – (khtyel bikh)
I do not understand – Nerozumím – (nerozoomeem)
I don’t speak Czech – Nemluvím česky – (Neh-mloo-veem cheskee)
What time is it? – Kolik je hodin? – (kolik ye hodeen)
Can I have a …? – Mohl(a) bych dostat … ? – (mo-hla bikh dostat)
What is it? – Co je to? – (tso ye to)
How are you? – Jak se máte? – (yak-se mah-te?)
Hospital – Nemocnice – (neh-mots-nitse)
Train Station – Nádraží – (nah-drazhyee)
Cheers – Na zdraví – (nah zdrah-vee)
Bon appetite – Dobrou chuť – (do-brooh khutye)
The bill, please. – Prosím, účet. – (pro-seem oo-chet)
Please, you’re welcome – Prosím – (proseem)
Waiter! – Pane vrchní – (pane vrkh-nyee!)
172
The national language is Czech.
However, English is widely spoken
Waitress! – Slečno – (slech-no) (especially by the younger gen-
Beer – Pivo – (pivo) eration), as is German and Russian
Toilet – Toaleta – (toh-ah-lehta) (mostly by the older generation).
Please – Prosím – (proseem) Czech is the national language
though.
Yes / No – Ano / Ne – (ano / ne)
Unlike English, each Czech let-
Shop – Obchod – (ob-khod) ter is always pronounced the same
Street – Ulice – (oo-leetse) way, so once you are familiar with
Police – Policie – (poleetsee-ye) the Czech alphabet you will be able
Airport – Letiště – (leh-teesh-tye) to read. Stress is usually on the first
1 – Jedna – (yed-na) syllable of a word. The Czech lan-
guage can be quite difficult to learn
2 – Dvě – (dvye) and many English speakers find it
3 – Tři – (trzi) very hard to pronounce.
4 – Čtyři – (chti-rzhi) If you are keen to learn some
5 – Pět – (pyet) basic words and phrases, we rec-
6 – Šest – (shest) ommend the Czech phrase book by
Lonely Planet. Believe or not, even
7 – Sedm – (sedm)
knowing a few short sentences will
8 – Osm – (osm) always delight the locals, who will
9 – Devět – (dev-yet) be pleased at your efforts and ad-
10 – Deset – (des-et) mire your trying.
100 – Sto – (sto) Czechs usually speak German,
1 000 – Tisíc – (tyi-seets) English or Russian as a second lan-
Day – Den – (den) guage though their ability will vary.
Week – Týden – (tee-den) This may be more obvious when
Big – Velký – (vel-kee) talking with the older generation.
Small – Malý – (ma-lee) Before the revolution in 1989,
Hot – Horký – (hor-kee) learning Russian was compulsory
Cold – Studený – (stu-de-nee) in schools. Today, almost no one
Bad – Špatný – (shpat-nere) learns Russian and most people
Good – Dobrý – (do-bree) prefer to speak English or German.
 173
FAMOUS CZECHS
Politicians Soccer Players
• Václav Havel (1936-2011) • Petr Čech (*1982)
Czech playwright and dissident and • Pavel Nedvěd (*1972)
later Czech president, one of the • Tomáš Rosický (*1980)
great men to emerge from the anti- • Josef Masopust (1931-2015)
-communist revolutions.
• Václav Klaus (*1941) Tennis Players
former prime minister and ex-presi- • Tomáš Berdych (*1985)
dent of the Czech Republic. • Ivan Lendl (*1960)
• Madeleine Albright (*1937) • Petra Kvitová (*1990)
Czech-born American politician and • Radek Štěpánek (*1978)
diplomat. • Martina Navratilová (*1956)

Scientists/Pioneers Hockey Players
• Prokop Diviš (1698-1765) • Dominik Hašek (*1965)
Inventor of electropathy and the • Jaromír Jágr (*1972)
lightning conductor. • Patrik Eliáš (*1986)
• Sigmund Freud (1856-1939) • David Krejčí (*1986)
Inventor of deep psychology. • Tomáš Vokoun (*1976)
• Tomáš Baťa (1876-1932)
Founder of the Baťa worldwide Models
shoemaking industry. • Eva Herzigová (*1973)
• Otto Wichterle (1913-1998) • Petra Němcová (*1979)
Inventor of silon and contact lenses. • Karolína Kurková (*1984)
• Tereza Fajksová (*1989)
Authors (Miss Earth 2012)
• Franz Kafka (1883-1924) • Taťána Kuchařová (*1987)
Czech-German author who wrote (Miss World 2006)
The Trial, The Castle, America.
Filmmakers
Composers • Miloš Forman (*1932)
• Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904) • Jan Svěrák (*1965)
174
NOTES

 175
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Copyright 2017 you during your visit to Prague.
Prague Airport Transfers s.r.o.® Every effort has been made to
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Rental
of a limousine
Spoil yourself and hire a top class luxury limousine to travel from
the airport, to a wedding, for a romantic tour of Prague or simply for
a luxury transfer from your hotel to the theatre or restaurant.

HUMMER H200 LINCOLN TC120
(max. 17 persons) (max. 8 persons)
1-hour rental: CZK 4 650 (€ 179) 1-hour rental: CZK 1 990 (€ 77)

CADILLAC ESCALADE FORD EXCURSION
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1-hour rental: CZK 4 990 (€ 192) 1-hour rental: CZK 3 900 (€ 150)

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