CONSTRUCTION MANUAL MINI FM TRANSMITTER editoraderiv 1 a.multiply.co m Diagram transmitter: Tetsuo Kogowa anarchy.translocal.

jp text, photo, mount tran smitter: LotteMeijer lotte@broadcastyourpodcast.com ww.broadcastyourpodcast.com. Portuguese translation: Eziquiel Mint Washington Roberto Lerias Nivaldo Lima Sér gio Neves Oliveira João Carlos Pereira Junior Ortiz Fernando Oliveira Murilo Pol ese Carretta Takahashi Portuguese layout tutorial: Paul Capra editoraderiva.multiply.com CC This guide is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Shar eAlike 2.5 Netherlands License. cc 2 MATERIALS To make the transmitter, you will need the following elements: • a piece of wire antenna (1m) • a wire 10 cm copper diameter 0.8mm • a battery connector for 9.0 V • a piece of board phenolite with a copper side in the following size (5.5 x 6.3 cm) • a plug to 3.5mm audio cable. • a transistor BC337 3 Two capacitors of 0.01 uF capacitor • a • a 10 pF 1 uF polarized capacitor tri mmer 20pF • a • a 470 ohm resistor • a 10k ohm resistor orange) (yellow - violet - black) (brown - black - orange) (red - violet - black • a resistor 27k ohm resistor - I will refer to components with the words "head", "leg" and "foot." As you can see in the picture above. - You can see what the value of a capacitor looking f or this information to the head of the capacitor. Is usually written in small pr int. - All resistors are color coded. You will see five bands on the resistor, t he four color-coded end with brown. TOOLS 4 For the preparation of the board: • A wire cutter (or a stylus) Cola instantan eous. For the construction of the transmitter: needle-nose pliers (for holding and bending parts) cutter (to cut the feet) • a soldering iron soldering sp onge (or cotton) to clean your iron (solder) rest of the soldering iron sold er wire (thinner the better) To use and test the transmitter: • a stick or other long piece of wood or plastic • A sound device with a 3.5mm headphone output • a radio * An Bateira 9 Volt From now on I will refer to the soldering iron just like iron.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5 1. CUTTING BOARD This card is called phenolite of a face. On one side is covered with copper, and the other a kind of resin. You will need a big piece (5 x 5.5 cm) and five smal ler (10 x 8 mm). [D] Select a long straight 8mm wide strip of his piece phenol ite. [A] Repeat this several times until you feel you could snap the strip with pliers. [B] Cut / break five pieces of this strip: First pre-cut the lines wit h your knife, then • Hold the strip with your cutting pliers and bend / break th e other party with needle-nose pliers long [C] 6 2. Pasting the SQUARE TO SMALL PLATE At this stage you should glue the small square to the plate. - First, ping five drops of glue on the copper plate, three on the bottom, two on top. As you see a bove. - Then, with help of tongs, place the small squares, with the copper side up, on the drops of glue. - Allow to dry. While waiting, call welding and a litt le wet sponge. Use Weld-throw it to protect your table from burns. Use the plier s tips indeed. Superglues toes are superirritantes 7 3. Wind the coil Before you start building the transmitter, you need a coil. This coil has to be made of 4 turns of copper wire 0.8mm and diameter of each round should be about 5mm. The mini jack (plug) is a perfect tool for this! Position the part of the copper wire and 0.8mm mini jack. [A] Now twist the wire around the plug 3 tim es. Looking up it should look like 4 laps, with two legs sticking out the bottom . [B] Bend your legs out, so that the wound part, is somewhat higher than the feet [C] Because This copper wire is plastic-coated, it will be almost impossi ble to solder it. So you have to scratch the plastic off the feet with the stylu s. It's easier if you still keep it attached to the plug. [D] 8 4. COVER THE SQUARE WITH WELDING For soldering easier life. It is recommended that you first cover the small squa re with solder (melted). Hold your hot iron directly on a cobrequadrado for tw o to three seconds. Place then the solder wire at the point where the solderin g iron is found with copper. (Hold your iron there) Keep the solder wire on th e board until the entire surface of the small square is covered evenly with the weld. • In the rest of the manual,€I will refer to these smaller squares with th e names you see written in the figure. I usually stick my plate at the table with a piece of tape, so that does not mov e when I'm working. 9 5. SOLDIER OF THE RESISTOR 10K OHM Now we start really. Take a blob of solder on the board about an inch beneath the square of the middle button. [A] Now take the 10k Ohm resistor resistor. H e is the sequence that has the color brown-black-orange-brown. Bend your legs wi th pliers in order to make little feet in them. They should be about 1 cm apart from each other and fit between the middle button and the blob underneath it. [B

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

] Heat the solder on the middle button until it melts. Hold the resistor wit h the pliers and insert a foot in the solder. Take your iron and allow the leg t o straighten and dry in the solder. This should only take a few seconds. [C] N ow heat the bubble down, and stick the other foot of the resistor in it. Cut t he pieces of feet that are too long. [D] 10 Take care that the bubbles do not stick weld on each other. If they stick togeth er: try to separate them, pulling a little with your soldering iron, or use your knife. The fewer the legs, the more power you will have your transmitter. 6. Solder the resistors OF 27K AND 470 OHM For a blob on the plate below the right square. • Place a drop of solder on th e board below the lower right. Get the 470 Ohm resistor (yellow, violet, black , brown), bend your legs. Weld a square in the lower right leg and another in th e blob of solder on the board and made to eliminate the excess feet. Now solde r the 27k resistor (brown black orange red violet) between the square of the mid dle-bottom and the middle square. 11 7. The SOLDIER OF CAPACITOR 10pF Now we will solder the capacitors. First get a 10pF capacitor. He probably loo ks like the 0.01uF. The difference is the text printed on the head. The 10pF usu ally comes with a "10" written and 0.01uF comes with "103". You can use a magnif ying glass to see it because the letters are small. Bend your legs capacitor s o that it fits between the square top and bottom right. Now hold with pliers a nd solder. If you have enough solder, just heat up the solder on the square and pull off th e soldering iron on it, to create a larger bubble. You can mix everything, provi ded it is done well and that the legs are covered well. 12 8. The SOLDIER OF CAPACITOR 0.01UF As you read before, you may recognize the 0.01uF capacitors, via the number 103 written on his face. Produce a spot on the left top center of the square, and a spot in the lower-central square. - Fold the ends, solder a 0.01uF capacitor bet ween the square and the upper-left point, and one across the square and the lowe r-central section below. Again eliminating the clutter of tips. After that, you can cut the ends. This can sometimes simplify, so that they are not among the parts when you weld them. 13 9. The POLARIZED CAPACITOR The polarized capacitor is special. He needs to be welded into place. Take the p olarized capacitor (this is the part with a large black tip and long). You'll fi nd that on one side there is a band with a dash (-) of different color (in this case white). This is the downside. You have to weld the leg of downside to the l ower-left square, and the other leg (positive) square in the bottom-center. You may recognize the positive and negative capacitor polarized by the length of the legs. The negative leg is shorter. 14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. The TRIM (CAPACITOR VARIABLE) Now is the time of the trimer. In this part, you can later change the frequency of its transmitter, which is very useful. - Try to find it. It is a small green round with three small feet. [A] - Bend your legs out. [B] Now you must solder t he middle leg to the top right square, [C] and the other two feet straight on th e board. Pay careful with your fingers, because the part gets very hot when you' re soldering. 15 The COP 1 1 soldier. Take the small coil you did in step 3. It must be soldered between the top two s quares, it is tempting to hold the spool with your fingers, but it's a bad idea. The welding of the coil is a little difficult. - Grasp the plug on the coil wit h a piece of tape. - Make sure you have enough solder on the upper half (add a l ittle more if it is not enough.) - Melt the solder on the upper middle and pull one leg of the coil. - Do the same with the other top button and the other leg o f the coil. Now you can remove the plug. If the solder does not stick to the feet of the coil you need to scratch it a li ttle more with the iron. 16 12.€The AFFIRMING THE BATTERY CLIP The fit of the battery has two wires attached to it, one red, one black. Red is positive, the negative black. - Do not attach the battery to the battery snap Drip a bit of solder meioalto above the square, and attach it the black wire. Solder the red wire on the square of the medium-high heat. 13. Welding HOME AUDIO 17 The audio signal transmitter will enter the cable with the attachments to plug i n your MP3 player or computer. - Cut off about two inches of plastic wire. You s ee one (mono) or two (stereo) core (s) covered in colored plastic, and a bunch o f wires around them. [A] - Wrap the external wires together. [B] - Now, remove t he plastic about an inch of wire (s) (be careful not to cut them off), and wrap the wires together as well. [C] Now, solder the wires in the core square esquerd ofundo, and the other on the board. Make sure the two do not touch! [D] 14. Place the antenna - First peel 1 cm from the antenna wire, to expose the wire. - Wrap the ends of the exposed wire. - Solder it in the square below right. 18 There will be a great help to an antenna longer possible, since each frequency h as an optimal size of antenna. We will discuss this later. 15. The BC337 TRANSISTOR The tricky part is the BC337 transistor. If he is not done properly, the transmi tter may not work. - Here's the part that has three legs. If you drive straight side facing his side, his left leg is called the "C", the average is called the "B", and the right leg is called the "E". [A] - Bend the middle leg forward. trá

sdireito right foot and left the back-left (as shown). [B] - Now take the transi stor. Now for the middle leg, which you bend forward, it will be a soldier squar e in the middle-ground, right foot touches the square of the right-bottom, and t he left foot touches the left-bottom square. 19 16. TRANSMITTER TESTING And finally it came time to test. - Turn on your radio, and look for a frequency [A] - Attach your battery to the battery clip. [B] - Now use the plastic screwd river (or any other nonconductive material (plastic / wood) to turn the little s crew on top of the variable capacitor slowly until you hear the static on your r adio disappear. [C] - Fit Now the plug into the headphone output of an audio dev ice, such as your mp3 player, cdplayer or computer. And put that device to play. [D] Sometimes you have to choose a different frequency. As a last resort you ca n scanning the dial to see if you listen to your mp3 player anywhere. If you do not hear her during testing, you can try the steps below: 20 - Make sure all parts are in place. - Check that the polarized capacitor (the bl ack object on the left button) has the negative sign to the left. - Check if the variable capacitor has his leg in the middle square and the other on the board. - Move all the pieces to see if they are united right. If they start to move: p ut more solder. Make sure that the parties have good contacts with the board or the copper contacts. - Make sure your battery is fixed and is not discharged. Te st again. If you do not hear anything, try the following: - Remove the BC337 tra nsistor switch back and taking care of the correct position. - Try a different f requency on your radio, and increase the volume a bit. 17. Trim ANTENNA 21 Once you find a frequency that will give you a good reception, you can cut the a ntenna to get even better. The length of the antenna should be longer or shorter depending on the frequency in accordance with the following formula: size in in ches = (300 / frequency) * 25 For example, if you're broadcasting on 100FM frequ ency, your antenna should be (300/100 ) * 25 = 75 cm in length. When calculating the size of your antenna by the formula, cut it to size. TIPS FOR USING THE TRANSMITTER The frequency of transmission may change slightly, depending on how much the bat tery is charged. If you plan to use the transmitter in a fixed position, you may want to buy a power supply of 9-12 volts at a local electronics store. You can cut the plug from its outer end and solder the transmitter. Do not let the power supply connected while soldering. 22 SCHEDULE 23