SCROG by FOZ (translated by Nublar) File Source: emule (ed2k: / / file SCRoG.

doc 3913216 902E205BB9A371B4A86 A926DBEC3184B /) Original language: Italian Translated by: Nublar (http://www. Date: March 2008 SCROG stands for Screen of Green (Green Mesh). It is a farming technique developed during the 60s in the U.S., while st ill not used HID lamps in the culture room and served to maximize the efficiency of fluorescent tubes, which were the main source of light used then. 1 - Data on Imagine lighting a light source either. This light source has a cert ain light intensity, we measure in lúmenes/m2. As we move away from the source, the light intensity will decrease because the light is dispersed by a larger ar ea. The same thing happens when you throw a stone into a lake, waves appear in t he center and become more and more weak (until they disappear) as they move away from the center. Regarding the relationship between the distance of the lamp an d the lumens, the light intensity decays rapidly as we move away from the source . Lost ¼ of its initial value each time you double the distance (as can be seen in the figure). Each lamp, according to his power (expressed in watts - W -), has a certain oper ating range, the more watts possesses the greater the surface might illuminate. The Use of low-powered light how they could be neon or 70-150250 watt HID lamps, will cause a plant of a certain height (80-100cm) the lower areas do not receive sufficient light. This does not mean that the plant will no t bloom, but it will happen to the buds of the low areas will be small and sligh tly resinous, compared with those who are closer to the spotlight. This does not preclude the use of low-power lamps, we shall see how, using some tricks we can get a good yield this type of lamp. 2 - SCROG - Bases A - The mesh The basic concept is very simple: limit the vertical growth and instead, promote horizontal growth, so we will make the plant and flowers are all the same dista nce from the light bulb, thus achieving the same lighting conditions whole plant . All this may be achieved by using a semi-rigid network, how you see in the cha rt. The shape of the holes is not important, square, hexagonal, rectangular. Wha t is important is the size of these, 5 cm is an appropriate measure. The mesh sh ould be at a height between 20 and 30 cms on the base of the plants. When the pl ants reach that height, making them grow horizontally, filling the mesh as regul ar as possible, without leaving gaps. We recommend the use of cuttings taken fro m a female parent plant, found a male when gaps have been filled, it is a pleasa nt surprise. Apart from the loss of time and the difficulty of removing the male of the mesh, will be an empty hole where no light will be used. . B - Guidance of plants is not essential to hold the branches, but recommended. I deally, for each hole in the mesh, have one or two points. To achieve this targe t and tame the plant, the best thing you can do is use wire and plastic closures (the bags of bread, pastries, etc) as seen in the photo. Hold the plant in the mesh is an art. These two objectives harmonize, ours and t hat of the plant. On the one hand, we must fill the grid evenly, otherwise the p lant will grow over the mesh. So it is first important to have a plant that want s to collaborate and give the ideal way for our purpose. It will therefore be ne cessary to amend its development (see section C) and choose a variety with the a ppropriate phenotype (see section D).

These three plants are not suitable for scrog are slightly branched This one however if it is suitable for scrog Having a branched plant, we have two possibilities when it comes to distribute u nder the mesh, from the center or from one side (see chart below). In the first case (concentric distribution) we must be sure to place the branches so as to fo rm a spiral. It is important that some of the secondary branches (marked in red) turn on themselves toward the center, so avoid these areas are empty. In the se cond case (distribution eccentric) the stem of the plant will be located at a ce rtain angle, the main branches will be located parallel with each other and high angles (90 ° to its base) to these, so they fill the spaces. The major branche s will be located toward the ends€and the tips are higher than those of the sec ondary branches, so that the tips will prevent larger shadow make others that mi ght be around. Top view If the plant is well prepared to hold the mesh will be no problem. The important thing is to be consistent and regularly into the desired shape, so the branches more easily guided SERN. They let up the tips of 4-8 cm above the mesh and then drops below this and if necessary, be subject to the above closures. Then some pictures of the bottom of the screen: 1 2 3 And here an example, in the first picture is observed as the tips protrude sever al inches above the mesh and the second picture as the same points have been rel ocated below the mesh, folding carefully. Before (up) ... ... And after a session of guided C - Prune or not to prune ... In order to facilitate the distribution of plants throughout the mesh, is a good idea to do what in English is called "topping." T he aim is to promote the development of side shoots. Before placing the plant un derneath the mesh is cut the main shoot. At this time the hormone concentration at this point is very large and for this reason (besides the fact receive more l ight), the main branch which is more developed than the rest. Pruning causes the plant has to redistribute the concentration of hormones, thus ensuring a more u niform formation of the buds. In SCROG seeks uniformity, it is for this reason t hat we do not want much bigger tips than the rest, limiting the light received b y neighboring tips. It looks the same visual effect with a SOG (Sea of Green), b ut using only a quarter of plants. It is important to prune when the plant is st ill young, so that all side shoots are likely to reach the screen at the same ti me. Once the plant reaches a height of 13-15cm, is ready for decapitation. In or der to minimize the trauma of pruning is important to make the cut with a very c lean and sharp blade. We recommend using pruning technique called FIM (Fuck I Mi ssed). If we cut the entire outbreak at an angle of 45 degrees, we get two new b ranches, in contrast with the FIM pruning may be able to get to 3-8 new branches . Unlike the traditional cut at 45 º, the FIM pruning will cut concave (U), eli minating about 80% of the outbreak, instead of all the bud how in traditional pr uning. Published: For more information on how to make a FIM pruning, visit the f ollowing message forum.

I tried it in one of the plants in the first SCROG I did, and got to develop fi ve new outbreaks. Obviously, each new outbreak alone could not produce as much a s the original outbreak, but we are looking for uniformity in the size of the bu ds, in order to fill the screen as possible. It is important not to cut the outbreak, we leave intact around 20%. In practice , only cut the tip, the base will remain intact on your site. The following illu stration should help, but only practice, a sharp blade, a good pulse and some co urage, give the desired results. D - How many plants? The SCROG is ideal in a small mount with low-power lamps, b ut no one forbids us to SCROG with 1000W lamp and 2m two or more mesh. A larger screen will require more attention from us. When deciding how many plants we put under the net, we must take into account an important fact. When you SCROG we w ill need 1-3 weeks more than the normal crop, in order to fill the screen comple tely. Therefore, increasing the number of plants going to reduce the time needed to fill the screen. Taking as an example a 60x60cm cabinet, the ideal number of plants is 4, but if we reduce the time filling the screen, we can put up to six plants. If instead, the wait time is not important, we can do SCROG with only t wo floors. For filling of the mesh, we can choose between two distinct options ( or some of the many variations in between). We can pass the mesh flowering half full or we can leave the plants in the vegetative period / growth for longer, fi ll the entire screen and let them grow about 10cm above, before moving on to flo wering. First case. 250W End of growth period (lack complete mesh) Advanced flowering 250W Second case, clearly shows a greater density. 400W End of growth period (mesh fully loaded) Advanced flowering 400W I believe with low-power lamps, you should choose the first option and with lamp s with greater ability to penetrate (400W and above), it is possible to carry ou t a SCROG denser. It is important to know that once you pass to flowering, the p lant will continue to grow. It passes through a phase of drawing that we conside r. We can proceed to bloom with a mesh padded to 80-85% and continue with sessio ns led during the first two weeks of this phase or let the ends grow without mor e, a fully populated mesh, and thus gain a few inches more in height. This phase varies in size and duration, depending on the genetics of the plant. For exampl e, the Silver Pearl Sensi Seeds have a short stretch phase, whereas some phenoty pes of the Bubble Gum for Whitelabel (a subsidiary of Sensi Seeds), have a very clear phase of stretch. The Cinderella99 (Brothers Grimm) can be up to twice its height at flowering. Therefore, when making SCROG with a type of plant characte ristics which are unknown, it is advisable not to fill the screen entirely, to a void the surprise of a stretch too much during flowering, which makes reaching t he tips placed too close to the bulbs. Some varieties recommended for SCROG: Silver Pearl, Northern Light, Cinderella99 , Bubble Gum. E - Sheets "useless" is strongly recommended periodic cleaning of dead leaves, especially if the SCROG is very dense, with the aim of promoting th e circulation of air in the ends and prevent the formation of mold and mildew. W e will have to remove all the yellow leaves and all those who have fallen short of the network and which no light reaches them.

3 - Technical AvanzadasCon SCROG "Over the years the concept SCROG base has evol ved in an attempt to make it more practical and / or productive. Below you will find a small sample of this development. A - Arena SCROG Such maximizes the use of light. Network is located in a V, so the ends are the same amount of light th at the center (to understand because it is so, see paragraph 1. Data on lighting ). This structure makes sense when using lamps is not suitable when using fluore scent lighting. In the case of lamps, light distribution should be conducted on a concave surface, whereas the fluorescent lights is better than the ends are al l at the same height. Fluorescent Lamps B - Modular The biggest limitation is undoubtedly SCROG lengthening the duration of the harvest. To remedy this problem, if there are two different environments , one for growth and one for flowering plants can be arranged in small modules ( 1-3 plants per module). These modules can be moved easily, so you will get to ta ke the last weeks of flowering of the more advanced modules, to put more modules in the growth zone and have them ready when the flowering room is empty. In addition these modules may represent a partial solution for those who wish fr om seeds instead of cuttings. If you see a male, we can remove it easily. C - Ve rtical - Green Box In this case no reflector, but the plant will grow around the lamp, maximizing the light output of this. The idea is to fill the whole box wi th tips toward the lamp inside, distributing branches abroad. In this way we rea lize the full potential of the light bulb and we can quadruple the size of flowe ring. The disadvantage of this technique is that the distance between the networ k and the lamp is fixed or at least can not be changed easily. This presupposes that we must have a good knowledge base SCROG technique and characteristics of t he plant used, to avoid burning tips in case you get too close to the lamp. This is an example of vertical SCROG, using only a 70W lamp. The concept is alwa ys the same, just change the orientation and the number of planes in which the p lant is located. Let me end this brief journey through the world of SCROG with an example of what I consider the use of this technique in its heyday. I call it the green tunnel and has been done by a good friend, Realhigh of It consists of a 4 00W lamp, located around the net is affixed circumferentially. The lamp has a gl ass tube (Pyrex) and around the pipe ends are connected to an air circulation sy stem, all in order to reduce the temperature. The system is hydroponic farming. The hydroponic unit with 400W lamp With the network placed

Results SCROG a tutti Buon Published: Firstly my thanks to Foz, the author of this guide, use it as a prima ry source of information for my first SCROG and the result was more than accepta ble. Thanks also to all the experienced growers who share their knowledge and ex perience on the Internet, through which you can avoid or overcome many of the mi stakes of a beginner, we all make in opening the Queen's home-grown plants. The original owners included three links, I did not post here because no working any more. Instead I put another 3 to give some more information and practical exampl es. Different types of pruning: My first SCROG /showthread.php?t=75810 interior: exterior SCROG s/viewtopic.php?t=36465 very currado: to-scrog-exterior-2005-t25269.html In both forums find information on the leftov

ers and cultivation SCROG interior / exterior, one need only look. A greeting an d smoking that are two days!