Colorimetry COURSE CONTENTS HISTORY GENESIS HAIR COLOUR.

GROWTH AND FALLING HAIR GROWTH FACTORS WHAT IS YOUR HAIR? HAIR COLOR SIX SQUARE METERS To stain WHAT IS THE HEIGHT OF COLOR AND TONE COLORING AND BLEACHING POWER Mayte Fomato 27/10/2007 Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

THE HISTORY OF THE COLOUR It is not clear for sure since when people dye their hair because the dye has be en popular since the dawn of history. It is possible, in prehistoric cave women have dyed their hair in a manner similar to that practiced by some primitive tri bes. Today, we know that the ancient Egyptians dyed their hair for thousands of years before the birth of Christ. Vegetable dyes, in those days, the favorite pr oducts for dyes were derived from certain plants and small shrubs that grew wild in the desert. Then at the time of the Romans, new techniques for dyeing and bl eaching, which were very fashionable. The Romans, predominantly blacks, were ama zed at the beauty of their captives Teutonic blond hair, and discolored their ow n hair with saffron, red arsenic, walnut and ash of plants to recreate that imag e. Something new: Over the next centuries the hair dye remained a blind experime nt. Just changed with the discovery of phenylenediamine in 1885. This new compou nd could be used alone or with metallic salts, increasing the range and quality of colors available to the industry of hair dyes. The general public did not acc ept the hair dye as a change everyday, and only used actresses and women of high society. The events are going to settle down, since then the chemistry and biol ogy will focus its attention on synthetic dyes, called group "for" and during th e twentieth century through a thorough and tenacious, we entered the modern era color we know today. Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

GENESIS OF HAIR GROWTH AND FALL INCLUDEPICTURE "http://www.enplenitud.com/cursos/2imagenes/cursos/colorimetria/c lase2_img_1.jpg" \ * We have a capital MERGEFORMATINET 100,000 to 150,000 hairs and it is normal to l ose 50-100 hairs per day. FAZ anagen active growth period. FAZ catagen (3 weeks) period of inactivity follicles. FAZ telogen (2 4meses) Sleep Period Three cycle s of life and anagen hair FAZ: Period of active growth, towards the end of the t hird month of gestation intrauterine life on the front, appears the first outlin e of the hair. The papilla cells are hardened, multiply, keratinized and form a cone that rises to the surface. Within the fetus is between the 5th and 6th mont h of life. FAZ catagen After the face of active growth, the hair undergoes invol ution, the follicle dermal atrophy and its implementation appears higher. FAZ te logen - period of rest during this period ends the hair to fall, driven by a ris ing hair (anagen). THE DEATH OF HAIR: Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez Initially, the phenomenon occurs in the area of the papilla, which is stunted, n utrition of the germinative zone is not secured, your cells do not multiply. Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

HAIR GROWTH FACTORS Proteins are the only vehicle capable of transporting the body and satisfy the v ital needs to produce and reproduce its own tissues. Are those that provide the substance of life mother called amino acid. The condensation of amino acids link ed in chains, forms the natural Albuminoidal proteins. These are molecules conta ining heavy weight: Carbon Hydrogen Oxygen Nitrogen Sulphur And often, as the pr otein that makes hair keratin. The keratin protein that forms hair, offers a ver y rich structure elements. Indeed, hair is just a fibrous protein that forms the keratin structure and strongly elongated chains linked together thanks to the s ulfur. Vitamins are active substances that are ingested in food, they are indisp ensable for carrying out vital functions. The amounts of vitamins you need every day man, is very small, but when is enough, symptoms of a vitamin deficiency di sease called, and which do not escape the hair and nails.€Among the vitamins tha t have a direct effect on the skin and hair are: "A" Indispensable for growth an d regeneration of the skin "B1" This vitamin depends on the normal process of bo dy muscle contraction, circulation and appetite . "B2" His absence is unfavorabl e for the growth of hair. "C" is the key factor for healthy skin manifests His l ack atrophy of follicles and medulla. Just as the pigment concentration decrease d. Obtained in: Citrus Liver Egg Yolk Is in: Cod Liver Oil Carrot / Spinach Manteca Obtained in: Grains of Corn / Wheat Yeast Fruit Obtained in: Milk Chicken Liver Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

WHAT IS YOUR HAIR? It is essential to understand the structure of hair and basic physical and chemi cal properties. We begin by identifying the two major divisions of hair: The roo t, which lies under the skin, where we find the hair follicle. The stem is the v isible part of each strand of hair is an extension of the root. The hair is comp osed of two essential elements are: Keratin Keratin Melanin is the fundamental s ubstance of the hair consists of a fibrous protein, which under an elemental ana lysis of his subject has on average the following composition Root hair showing her parts most important: Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez INCLUDEPICTURE "Carbon rsos/2imagenes/cursos/colori http://www.enplenitud.com/cu metria/clase4_img_1.jpg" \ * MERGEFORMATINET Hydrogen Oxygen Nitrogen Sulphur 5 0-60% 8-12% 4-5% 25-30% 2-4% Spinal capillary bulge>>> <Cuticle <Saco fibrous <Papilla The result: The hair follicle is a small slit in the skin tube that holds the ro ot in the same way that a container holds soil, stem and root system of a plant. Each strand of hair has its own follicle. It also has a papilla: a small lump o f tissue in a horseshoe shape that is at the base of the follicle. The outer lay er is formed by a thin layer of cells that take the form of hair. Blood vessels provide nutrients for hair growth. The hair bulb is above the papilla, adhering firmly to it. Located on the wall of each follicle sebaceous glands are attached to each follicle. These oil glands produce a fatty substance essential for Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

maintain normal lubrication of the hair, any change in its operation because con ditions such as dry hair or oily hair. The erector or give smb. The creeps is a small muscle attached to the follicle. Contracture of this muscle causes the hai r to keep it upright, or "put on end" when we are cold. The hair shaft known as the hair shaft hair or hair, is a production of the skin, composed of a fibrous protein called keratin in the formation of which involved amino acids (*), hence any product that incorporates protein (amino acid synthesis) favors training. Seen under a microscope the fiber or strand shows three layers of cells: INCLUDEPICTURE "CUTICLE sos/2imagenes/cursos/colorime http://www.enplenitud.com/ cur tria/clase4_img_2.gif MARROW" \ * BARK MERGEFORMATINET The Cuticle: the outer layer of the strand. It consists of overlapping flat cell s found on the surface of the hair-like scales of fish, have no pigments and are transparent. When we speak of damaged hair is usually referred to damaged cutic le layer. Bark or Cortex: composed of sheets of cells located between the cuticl e and medulla. The cortex is the most important layer of hair, is composed of cy lindrical cells firmly attached to each other, forming elongated, provides most of the strength and elasticity of hair. The natural color of hair depends on the presence of pigments housed in its bark. Marrow: the hair shaft, also called sp inal canal, is not known to any vital activity in the life of the hair. Physical Properties hair texture is defined by the diameter (thickness) of each strand. It may be coarse, medium or thin. As a rule, the finer the hair the faster your reaction to the dyes and other chemical treatments. Density: the average number of hairs per individual is between 100,000 to 150,000. The normal drop is 50 to 100 hairs per day Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez Elasticity: the possession of the hair to stretch beyond its original length and return to it.€Hair elastic qualities are altered by the sun, the environment, e xcessive dry heat and chemical treatments. Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez HAIR FORCE OR LOAD BREAKING: The property that has the hair to withstand very hi gh tensile unbroken. Usually has more power is healthiest. A single strand of ha ir healthy bear 60 to 100 grams in weight. A healthy hair medium (120,000 hairs) can withstand up to 12 tons. These conditions can be affected by many factors: age, environment and very strong chemical treatments like dyes with ammonia grad uation "uncontrolled." HIDROFILO POWER: The hair absorbs water, the keratin of t he hair can absorb up to 35% or 40% of its weight in water, in the form of hydro gen bonds.

THE COLOR OF HAIR The natural hair color depends on the presence of pigment, a coloring substance, within the cortex of the hair strand. The natural hair pigment called melanin A l strand developed within the follicle melanin drag in the form of small granule s, through the crust. There are many hair colors. These not only vary between in dividuals but also in a single hair and in a single strand. This seems less comp licated when we realize that this variety of tones is due to different combinati ons of the two different types of pigments. Variety of melanin pigments: melanin in the hair exists in two forms: diffuse pigments. The pigment granules. Diffus e pigments gives a little yellowing when concentrated, slightly reddish when its concentration is quite strong. The pigment granules are present in the form of grains vary from reddish brown to dark black. These two types of pigments found in all varieties of hair, but the quantity is more or less variable. It is this mixture of the two natural pigment that gives all the hair's natural tones.

Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez Color Intensity: Dark hair contains more pigment granules and is said to have mo re intense color. Blonde or red tones have more pigment-fuzzy and say they have less color intensity. The color of hair is the degree of warmth or coolness of a color. We can use these terms to describe the variety of shades of hair. We can say, for example, that someone has dark hair and warm, dark and warm in tone in tensity, or in the case of a cold light hair, light intensity and cold in tone. COLOR THEORY Primary colors: color Citing inmeiatamente visualize a wide range o f tones. In reality there are only three primary colors which are the others. Th e three primary coplores are: BLUE RED YELLOW Secondary Colors: When you combine equal parts of two primary colors you get the secondary colors: yellow and red make ..... ORANGE RED BLUE form the .......... more YELLOW BLUE VIOLET a re on .... GREEN The secondary colors are purple, orange and green. Tertiary col ors: the tertiary colors are formed by mixing equal parts of primary colors with their immediate adjacent secondary color. TERTIARY COLORS The six are then, GRE EN-BLUE-GREEN YELLOW BLUE-VIOLET VIOLET RED-RED-YELLOW-ORANGE ORANGE Not only ca n combine colors to get other colors, also can be combined to neutralize, or cou nteract one other color. Knowing how to neutralize and counter the colors togeth er is important to advise on a particular tone. Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez The mixture of equal parts of the three primary colors produce BLACK. when combi ned in unequal parts form the brown tone BROWN vary according to the proportions of primary colors. For example greater amount of red create a reddish brown, mo re yellow will be a light brown and blue if the lion's share will be a cold brow n. It is important to note that the laws we have defined color cover color pigme nts. HOW TO SEE THE COLORS Light is the true source of color, without light, obviousl y there would be no color. The light colors are additive synthesis, which means that enrich the mixture formed a new color. Sunlight or natural light is colorle ss, it is the sum of all colors, so we can say that the white color is produced due to the addition (sum) of the primary colors. Its opposite is black. Darkness is the absence of light, and therefore, the absence of color. If we know, even superficially, the mechanism of a camera,€we can get a pretty good idea of the s tructure and functioning of the human eye. In a camera can distinguish three par ts: 1-GOAL, by which light penetrates 2-IRIS, which regulates the entry of light 3-movie, in which images are recorded with the human eye can see some similarit ies: 1-CRYSTALLINE, by which light penetrates. 2-PUPIL, which exerts an action s imilar to a diaphragm. 3-RETINA, projecting images to the optic nerve and, throu gh it, brain

To stain SIX SQUARE METERS Taking an average of 120,000 hair 20 inches long each, you get an area of 6 squa re meters. Unbelievable but true!. The important thing is that it is dyed 6 squa re meters in a tight bundle of 120,000 tiny surfaces. And like it or not, this r epresents a small number of practical problems. A hair dye is not the same or ev en less room to paint or stain a dress with her hair because we find the inevita ble and omnipresent scalp (ie the body, skin, human) Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez In addition, there is a huge difference between permeable and porous hair that n eed a lot of hair product and waterproof, the gap between fine hair and thick ha ir, thick hair, giving a volume approximately doubled in weight and size. Failur

e to observe these details can lead to unsatisfactory results of color. Between two neighboring colors (located next to each other on the scale) there is a diff erence in tone, being understood by the tone expressed in value or degree of ton e height numbered. Tone Scale: 1 - Black 2 - Moreno 3 - Dark Brown 4 - Brown 5 - Light Brown 6 - 7 Dark Blonde - Blonde 8 - Light Blonde 9 - Very Light Blonde 10 - White (Canas) T HE REFLECTIONS: WHAT IS A KEY? The reflexes that join to the dye or color does not change substantially even co lor, but do vary the height of tone. Thus the clear golden while the ashes There are three important elements to consider and monitor each other: The natural co lor of hair = The exact height of the new color tone desired = The difference in the scale. Power = Power whitening bleaching of the dye SCALE TONE TONE SCALE W ITH CHESTNUT CHESTNUT REFLEX Blackout RUBIO CLARO 7.1 ½ = 6 1 / 2 DARK Ringtone RUBIO RUBIO 7.3 = 7 1 / 2 ½ Clarify obscure. 4 May 6 July 8 Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez CLARO tone Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

WHAT IS THE HEIGHT OF COLOR AND TONE In principle we will consider questions to serve as a guide to the importance of knowledge in the color of natural hair color. 1 .- What is the importance of kn owing as accurately as possible the natural hair color and height of tone? Answe r: Only from the exact value of hair color, you can determine what tone will be advised. As a simple example we turn to that in which a client requests a color "two shades lighter than my natural color." Obviously, nothing can be done it ca n not determine the client's natural color 2 .- Do different colors of hair also react differently to the hair color? Answer: In any process of coloring, natura l hair color opposing and curbing acts as the agent action possible intruder. Th e darker the hair, the greater the opposition. That is, each color has its own c haracteristic and physical identity, as well as a hair is black, for his enormou s wealth of dark pigmentation (+ pigment granules), is much more resistant and r eluctant to admit to their fiber discoloration or strange coloration a blond hai r whose pigmentation is diffuse and less resistant. To the extent that the oppos ition will "feel" darkening the tone of the dye provided or influenced with redd ish or golden reflections (small revenge which takes the hair ...) The importanc e of the gray We will make a raise of some questions that will clarify doubts th at may arise when we advise a color to cover gray hair. 1 .- Why are so importan t in all white hair coloring process? Answer: Of the amount of white hair depend s sensitively: - The maximum pitch of the dye - The intensity of the reflections - The brightness of the colors white hair (gray) should be considered from the point of view color as a hair type, because the dye formulas are usually studied only for himself. Why are so important when applying color. Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

2 .- Why is it necessary to determine the percentage of gray hair? Answer: To de termine the amount of gray hair, is essential to make a smart choice, it is not the same color to all white mass (100% gray) to hand it to a hair with 10% even with no white hair. 3 .- How do the white hairs on the result of a color? Answer : First I must say that the relationship between a high-pitched white hair and a natural dye also stained in the same tone, is not the same degree: - The white hair is dyed in the right tone. - The natural hair is dyed a darker shade. On th e other hand, the reflections taken with more intensity and purity of white hair . While natural color is often adulterated by the action of the natural pigments .

POWER COLORING AND BLEACHING The tinting strength of the tincture is unlimited, including combining two tones in the sale, you can create unlimited amounts of new reflections to increase th e range. Not so with his power bleaching which is subject to limits that barely move in the narrow margins of 2-3 tones, on condition that the hair is natural ( not dyed or bleached) The strength bleach can be adjusted only through the oxida nt: 20 volumes: Discoloration of 1 ½ to 2-Tone 30 volumes: Discoloration of 2-3 tones. With the premise that the dye can discolor up to 3 colors maximum (normal hair, not hard or tight-) see the solution that we can give the following probl em: It is a brown hair, for which there are two color options : Stain in Dark St ain in Rubio Rubio Claro Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez NATURAL BACKGROUND CHESTNUT INCLUDEPICTURE "http://www.enplenitud.com/cursos/2imagenes/cursos/colorimetria/c lase8_img_1.jpg" \ * DYE MERGEFORMATINET There is a difference of two tones that can discolor the dye itself. Therefore apply directly: 6 - Dark Blonde EYE! DYEING HAIR IS OUT, NO N ATURAL IE, IS NEEDED SWEEP DECOLORACION.DECOLORANTE equivalent to a course Rubio from brown to a difference of four tones that can not bleach the dye itself. CA N NOT LIVE Dye Washout 2nd 1 Dye 9.1 Very Light Blonde Source: www.enplenitud.com Author: Nelida Fernandez

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