INTRODUCTION Having a car with the pleasant is the greatest reward and the biggest trouble cr afting the

car. Between searching for a paint store to do a complete repaint in an older car, getting the job done to your satisfaction in a timely manner, and paying for it, making a car paint can be a harrowing experience. There is no rea son leaves all who stand between your car and a great paint job. After all, you know the old saying: If you want something done right, you have to do it yoursel f. And you really can if you have the time and patience to do it right. The most daunting challenge for the new artist is understanding the various steps of the process: preparation, primer, blocking, and the work and the final details of t he aerosol. Taken as a whole, it seems like an insurmountable hurdle, but each s tep by itself takes no more than a couple of days. Paced, you can get the job do ne in a reasonable amount of time if you have a plan and stick to it. We painted this duster 70 in just about one month from the time the body was started until it was color-sanded and ready to drive out the garage. It may be the oldest cli ché of trade, but there is no escaping the truth that the final outcome of any paint job is only as good as the prep work. The duster concealed its fair share of damage, with some rust down low in the quarter, and filler above plastic body up from previous repairs. From the doors forward, the paint was mostly original , but many recent repairs had left the back of the car repainted a partial patch . Some were done skillfully, while another amateurishly was overloaded with fill er. We take the time to get the right of the body before moving on. Another poin t that we can not hammer home hard enough is that you really need to check their local environmental regulations regarding mixing and spraying the paintings in the country. The local fire department or shop autobody from the source is proba bly the best place to start. But even if you really stops just before spraying t he paint yourself, the techniques demonstrated here will allow at least you get the car ready to paint a favorable place, saving you a ton of money. We have ass umed that you already know a car peeling around your setting, bumpers, mirrors, grill, and other items that need to be removed before you paint it, so let's get down to the nitty-gritty details. Before being painted AFTER BEING PAINTED 1. After thoroughly cleaning the car with detergents followed by wipe-down with wax and grease remover, work begins by sanding down the old paint with an orbita l sander air dual-action (DA .) The sands of DA without digging in like a rotary sander or a grinder. Sanding the car down at least at the level of its original paint offers a large surface to build on if you are in good shape. Heavy duct t ape protects the windshield molding from getting scratched by the sander. 2. In the fourth lowest in the driver-side pressing a solid sheet over the body filler wire mesh, mold hiding something serious. A line of the film was presente d, and the offending area was cut loose with a cutoff wheel. The internal extens ion of the trunk floor was also rusted, most of it got so the knife too. 3. This is the fourth after the final cut. Make sure to repair the work area is pruned back to solid metal. 4. We quote a section of replacement for the quarter-panel of a wrecked sport da rt and carefully adjusted for a snug fit him so he could butt-weld inside. Cut t he piece of the donor car with the inner panel still attached, and weld it that way, so that the factory assembly between the two remained in the bottom panels, front and rear. These clamps are butt-welding of the Eastwood Company, and main tain the edges of the panel aligned. 5. The new panel was welded with MIG-welds in place. With its confined area of t he heat, saves MIG welding distortion to a minimum. The MIG gear is quite afford

able now be within reach of the hobbyist, this unit of Campbell Hausfeld tools l oad port priced under $ 400.€Make sure to step up to a gas-bottle rather than t he wire gasless flux core, since the last flow of the license and will in the we ld. The auto-darkening helmet, also from Harbor Freight is a significant step to ease of welding and worth every penny. 6. After grinding the weld and a little hammer-and-truck work, the result was a solid repair, seamless. This area will get only a very thin layer of plastic fil ler to achieve the perfect surface. 7. The car had several other smaller areas of mold, some of which showed only mi nor pinholing through the surface. These pinholes will blow out areas of paint o r filler in a short time, so do not be tempted to just cover them up with body f iller. Here, the rusted corner of the room in front of the rear wheel was cut an d replaced with a patch. To prevent future corrosion, clean the area thoroughly mold while it is accessible, and to cover the back of the sections of welding re pair welds, by the primer. 8. A cutoff wheel is useful for grinding back any excess accumulation of welding studs. The thin cutting wheel can be focused precisely on the grains of the wel d to avoid unnecessary thinning of the sheet metal. The final preparation of the repair is done with an angle grinder disc using a 40-grit grinding backed with a rubber pad. 9. Follow the instructions for preparing mixed plastic body filler. Lightly coat the top layer to the area is patched and the repair. 10. The minor surface defects are easily set with a top layer of filler. Apply t he filler gently with a plastic spreader. 11. After drying, the filler can be saved with a form of Surform blade (one row, half-round is the best to get). Unless a huge amount of shaving and shaping is necessary (not to be), forget the old "consistency of the cheese board" about wh en to file it back, because that'll only leads to peel off or overfiling filler. Let the filler dry hard enough, and then the rough-form it with the file until the surface revealing uniform and archival tags is contoured correctly. 12. The best tool to form the filler is a long sanding board. For leveling heavy , use the sandpaper 36-grit, followed by 80-grit. Try to leave marks uniform san ding and a smooth feathers in the surrounding areas. DA Finish up by sanding wit h 120 - to 150-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface grit. 13. The regular filler has a fairly thick texture, and agree to let alfilertamaà ±o hole bubbles. The final step filling process is to use acrylic glazing compou nd to fill minor surface defects and to create a feathered edge superfine. Use t he little acrylic enamel because it takes a long time to dry and can be contract ed if Gloppen on. 14. Glazing compounds are designed to sand easily due to its fine texture. A boa rd autobody sanding drive is the best tool to use. They come in sizes 1/3- or 1/ 4-sheet. Arena to create a uniform surface with a feathered edge eventually. 15. Once the body is made, the car is cleaned again and masks. From the jambs, e ngine bay, and trunk of the plume still had original paint nice, also mask these areas to protect against spray (spray). soft-edged 3M foam tape, which works as weatherstrip, it is useful for sealing gaps panel. 16. Masking is an important step in getting a quality job. We bought a 1,000-foo t roll of adhesive paper 3-foot-wide and enough autobody masking tape to make th e job right. We leave the windshield moldings in place, and tuck the tape under

the edges with a thin plastic card. The spray underchassis is also vulnerable, a nd the only way to avoid trouble is to build a curtain down all the way around t he underside of the car, burnt to the back of several panels. A good job masking takes six to eight hours, and need to be done again before the final paint is a pplied. 17. Before spraying any material, we did a final clean-down from the surface to remove contaminants. In some parts of the country€solvent-based products can be used for this step. They work faster, so check your local regulations. 18. For the first coat primer, we used the Valspar epoxy primer. We could have u sed other kinds of primer, but for the duster MultiSurface base, epoxy provided the best seal and stability. The Valspar epoxy primer combines excellent filling characteristics with minimal shrinkage, but is slightly harder to sand than tra ditional brushing primer altoacumulacio'n. 19. A vital step in achieving a higher quality end is to apply a thin haze of a contrasting color on the card to serve as guidecoat while sanding. The guidecoat reveals high and low points in the body much more effectively than sight or fee ling alone. Mix a little black basecoat on the card with twice the normal reduct ion to get the right consistency and color. No need to paint on, just the guidec oat fog on the surface to get a uniform look smudged. 20. Sand the primer is critical to a final Distortion-free. Use long boards, rat her than hard flexible rubber blocks, which are distortions in the panels, and w hack the hard surface with 220-grit wet paper or dry 150-grit. Thick paper cut o ff quickly down the high spots but not mounted in the lower areas. Where are the trouble areas, the panel work as the bulk material of the primer will, but stop sanding if you cut through the layer below. 21. This corner of the chapel exhibits the typical minor distortions that separa te "super right" of "almost there." After the initial block, the remaining guide coat (about finger) between short-throughs on either side reveals a low point. A block of rubber or paper short, flexible fine-sand would be mixed in this area simply floated to the distortion, rather than revealing the defect. 22. To fix it, fill the area of a paper-thin layer of glazing compound and feath ered in sanding it with sandpaper 220-grit on a hard panel. 23. Unless the very rough surface remains after the initial blocking step to all ow a second application of primer / filler, this is the last chance to fix defec ts. This distortion in the hood was also fixed with acrylic enamel. 24. Once repairs were complete final detail, spray a second coat of primer / sea ler. This mixed and filled the repair of detail and the surface 220-grit left in the layer of epoxy primer on the blocking process. The second layer of primer w ill be sanded to a surface much finer 600-grit for the basecoat and clearcoat. W e use the polyurethane primer / sealer Supa Seal of Valspar. After it cures, the epoxy leaves a much more stable surface planers softer primer. I dyed a certain color of the basecoat to turn light gray to a reddish pink to improve the cover age of the stage of the basecoat. 25. In applying the primer / sealer, it is important to gather material thick en ough so the rear surface can be smoothed and leveled blocked without breaking th rough to the layer below. We apply two coats. 26. Apply a second guidecoat had on the first / sealer and blocked the car out a s we did in the stage of epoxy primer, this time using a wet paper finer than 40 0-grit. All the flaws exposed by the sanding guidecoat out without cutting the l ayer of epoxy primer. This is how you know that a car is straight.

27. Before topcoating, the car was demasked and washed thoroughly to remove the wet-sanding mixture accumulated in the gaps and areas of the panel. All were wet -sanded edges, and the entire surface was given the go fast with 600-grit paper on a cushion of soft rubber hand. 28. After remasking the car, the surface must be spotlessly clean before applyin g any color. The duster was thoroughly dusted twice with plenty of clean rags ta ck, and then again just before throwing the basecoat. 29. The two-stage system of Valspar paint begins with the basecoat. Flashes quic kly, and dries to a matte finish. When spraying, placed as little foundation as required to provide uniform color. Keep the gun perpendicular to the area being drawn, carrying out 10 to 12 inches away. Overlap 50 percent movements and move the gun at a uniform speed. Use the same technique to apply the clearcoat.€We u sed Valspar acrylic polyurethane. Depending on the rules in your area, dispose o f the VOC mixture highest environmental regulations allow flowout and achieve th e best finish. Mixtures ma's high-VOC laws in many areas, reducing the use of ur ethane rather than diluent (required in Southern California) in the brewing. Tha t's it for now. The paint needs to cure for at least a few days before it is rea dy for final color-sanding and buffing process, which will detail next month to wrap up the project.