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BIKINISD

BRAZIL TEXTILES, A GIANT UNKNOWN Sector A fully market-oriented insurance, a cou


ntry of continental dimensions, almost exclusively concentrated in cotton (in bo
th textiles and clothing), with large industrial clusters (Hering, Santos etc.).
companies with turnovers that significantly exceed the barrier of 100 million,
used to "ride" in an uncertain economy, high rates of inflation. A sector also m
ade of medium-sized companies and many thousands of small family businesses, abo
ut 30 000 in total. In the '90s, waged by successive crises, supported by a dyna
mic association (ABIT, the leading college of textiles Brazilian) and animated b
y the success of the Real Plan - a plan which has put some rationality in the ec
onomy away from the specter of hyperinflation - led by Fernando Henrique Cardoso
(just catapulted to the presidency), Brazilian companies could invest in modern
izing its productive structure (official figures estimate investment of around 9
billion U.S. dollars). In parallel, there was a major force in the development
of brands, they have created new ones, and were born the 'Fashion Weeks' in São
Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, and Brazil went on to sing the voice of "present" on t
he restricted list call international fashion. During most of the 90s, all that
effort continued to be directed exclusively to the internal market (with 187 mil
lion inhabitants), and that in these years, thanks to the benefits of the Real P
lan, managed to integrate millions of "new" consumers in the market , people at
that time, virtually outside the consumer market, because the effects of hyper-i
nflation, which eroded the already low wages, could aspire to nothing more than
subsistence. This is one of the main reasons why Brazil remains relatively unkno
wn as a giant in the international textile (statistics place it as the 6th globa
l textile producer, ranking 3rd in sectors such as cotton fabric, and more than
1.5 million workers in the textile and clothing - as well as throughout Europe),
except for its Mercosur neighbors, prime destination (although the U.S. is also
, and Europe for some sub-sectors) of a volume of exports also small compared to
the size of the industry and the large structure of some of its businesses. ITV
(Textile and Clothing) Brazil produces 21 billion euros, a figure identical to
the sum of the industries of Spain and Portugal, 45% more than ITV makes the Fre
nch, or even 50% of turnover conducted for ITV Europe's most important, namely t
he Italian. MYTH: The sensual Brazilian Brazil is a world, not only by the exten
t of its territory and the more than 187 million people who inhabit it, but espe
cially by the 'melting-pot of races, that mix for 500 years inventing a Country
that is, in many respects, quite unique. Gilberto Freyre, perhaps the most famou
s anthropologists of their (recent is the centenary of his birth) was the first
to assign the natural sensuality of Brazilian fusion of Indian, African and Port
uguese (and later other Europeans), trying to show through his work miscegenatio
n that, historically seen as a sign of underdevelopment, is, however, a treasure
. The end of military dictatorship in 1985 (the scheme that lasted 21 years), as
sumed an impetus to the upgrading of African roots, which are part of the misceg
enation that brings the rhythm, exuberance and color, which we consider the main
identity passwords Brazilian . The sensuality that Brazilians think, with pride
, part of their identity, has in modern Brazil, one of its expressions in the cu
lt of the body, being a truth that is omnipresent throughout the West acquires a
n extraordinary nature in Brazil. The influence of the media 'lifestyle' Carioca
(Rio de Janeiro), where "body culture" assumes a central place in social relati
ons, spread across the country.
INSIDE OUT
BRAZIL IS FOR WHAT THE JEANS ARE FOR AMERICA. MUCH MORE THAN A PRODUCT IS ALSO A
N ICON, A piece of clothing that best synthesizes the NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. BUT
, ALSO, ARE THE POINT OF RECOGNITION FOR INTERNATIONAL LAUNCHES THE BRAZILIAN FA
SHION INDUSTRY.
Bikinis
CHICK INTIMATE CULT PREPARED THIS REPORT, IN WHICH the combined EXPLANATION OF T
HE MARKET AND ITS
MAIN ACTORS, THE LIFESTYLE AND CONSUMPTION OF FASHION, WITH THE MYTHS AND SOCIO-
CULTURAL PHENOMENA THAT TRANSFORM THIS GREAT COUNTRY, MAYBE, NO ONE 'TREND SETTE
R' AMONG THE COUNTRIES OUTSIDE THE ORBIT EUROPE-USA.
Get Brazil
"These swimsuits have the paradox of bringing greater freedom to the body, while
bringing greater social control over their bodies naked '1. The naked body must
be free of fat, sagging to be "decent" as "indecent" is the body out of shape.
The answer is the culture of "workout" and cosmetic surgery.
"
The sensuality of Brazilian women TODAY WITHOUT SHADOW OF DOUBT, ONE OF FEMININI
TY TRANSLATION OF THIS NEW MILLENNIUM, AND IS MAKING CLOTHES FOR WOMEN BY ENCHAN
TED WORLD ENDS "Amir Slama, TEA ROSE.
It may seem incredible, but Brazilian women are, then the Japanese, the most dis
satisfied with their own corpo2. What to do? The scalpel appears as a solution.
The Brazil comes second in world rankings for plastic surgery (led by the Americ
ans), with an estimated 7% of the Brazilian has already been submitted at least
once in a while 50% are considering or aspire to do LO3. This past year are said
to have been carried 800,000 interventions, and although Brazil is a kind of Me
cca for specialty (Pitanguy and his "disciples" receive patients from all over t
he world), are in fact the Brazilian fatten the list. In January and February, b
efore the Carnival, it is common to hear in the media who have exhausted the sto
cks of silicone. Having a 'bum' is a perfect ancient national obsession - the re
quests for silicone implants in the buttocks are common - today sees itself comp
lemented by the ambition to have big breasts that never featured Brazilian women
: in ten years the application of silicone prosthesis that was on average 120-18
0 ml increased to 160-220 ml. The typical morphology of Brazilian small bust and
large hips, gradually passes into history. Bodies have not only grown but also
authentically sculpted gain prominence in the media around the world showing the
Rio Carnival or
image of the beaches, where instead of coconuts and palm trees, shown by the Car
ibbean and West Indies in its tourism promotion, we find eternal girls from Ipan
ema. A "national beauty" natural or acquired, becomes a "national identity" in t
he strong image of Brazil in the world. MARK BRAZIL Brazil enters the select gro
up of nations that may deserve the definition of "country-Mark." Many want, they
try but fail. Today, to be sure to mark are three essential elements: style and
personality, size, and why not, a touch of whimsy, that Brazil has unquestionab
ly.
"
An example: Less than a year, was inaugurated in São Paulo, a large space 'of 20
,000 m2 entirely dedicated to luxury brands called Daslu4. One of the founders,
Eliana Tranchesi, says he was inspired, in architectural terms, the Italian emba
ssy in Berlin. In Daslu only enter by car or helicopter (has a heliport), and pu
rchases from a fact Chanel or Gucci, a Dolce & Gabbana jeans, a box of Moet Chan
don, or a unit from Bang & Olufsen, to arrive garage on a conveyor as in airport
s. To move from one end to another within the commercial space efforts are not n
eeded: carts, like those used in the 'greens' of golf, are available to customer
s. And on a lucky day, you can cross with Paris Hilton, who entered the Daslu in
the "tour" presentation of his new perfume. The opening of this space has not g
one unnoticed to the international press. The month that he might have is that t
he Daslu have been built beside a small shantytown pompously called the Coliseum
and therefore does not face the society who lacked 'chic' before calculations '
shocked': with the sum of the monthly income of about 150 slum dwellers Colosseu
m (about 4100 Euros5) they could buy at Daslu nothing more than two pairs of Dol
ce & Gabbana jeans, which sell for about 1,800 Euros. If for a moment, leave asi
de the
CHICK
99
INSIDE OUT
exercises of false moralism, one can say that in that context Daslu it is still
a huge extravaganza, the ironic and disturbing reality of our modernity. Besides
the extravagant and sometimes exaggerated, as if a pop-star 'they were, Brazil
has the third ingredient, the most appetizing to mark up today. It's the 'fri-ap
peal', the sum of sensuality, grace and ease with which these people relate. The
'lifestyle' associated with Brazil sells, with the ambassadors from the yellow
"Canary Island" (soccer) by Carlinhos Brown draws crowds with his revelry in Par
is or Barcelona. Brazil was already 'trend-setter' even before the Brazilian pro
fessionals in the fashion world began to think of how to exploit that fact to se
ll their products to the world. AFTER THE 'BOOM' STYLE,€WILL O 'BOOM' OF MARKS?
Throughout the 1990s until today, to Europe and America, Brazil was a big trunk
where they picked the models, as only Brazil can have a "German" or "Italian" (G
isele Bundchen, Mariana Weickert, Isabeli Fontana, Carol Trentini, etc.). with '
swing' Brazilian and ambition to meet the sacrifices of the profession. The inte
rnational fashion designers have also found some elements which are essential in
today stylistically 'jeanswear' and 'beachwear': strapping descents of the pant
s, the modeling bikinis, whose reflection in the 'underwear' is more than obviou
s, look- it cuts more slip dug, Thongs and shorts strap drop. Logically, also fo
und solid grounds for inspiration in the exuberance of colors in nature, the sou
nds, the blending of races and contrasts. Were the hallmarks of Haute Couture th
at showed "Brazil" to the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana Gucci or Dior, adapting el
ements of the iconography and styles to your liking, then the high-end European
brands have followed the trail, and finally chains of high consumption. When Bra
zilian companies have begun to seriously address the international market were f
aced with two realities: first, and good news is that Brazil, or more precisely,
the part of your 'lifestyle' that comes to Europe (not without threads) is fash
ion. With flashes in the glow, in some years and less in others, cycled back int
o the limelight. The majority of Brazilian professionals in the fashion sector i
dentify the 'beachwear' and 'jeanswear' as the two sectors where the Brazilian b
rands may have more opportunities in the future, because in your 'mood' is a nat
ural reference. They say a showcase of 'beachwear' Brazil will always find a wil
ling buyer that will be shown. The second news is not so good but because the wo
rld has taken on a style that Brazilians considered as their own. In the corrido
rs of the latest edition of Lyon Mode City is exhibited products of 480 brands o
f Fashion Spas, thirty of them being a Brazilian. But Lyon was much more than th
at of Brazil, represented by the brands. Many dozens of European brands incorpor
ate as standard the exuberance of color, cuts troughs and shorter, thongs, tops
the "curtain" (triangular shaped bra where the bottom of the canopy is adjustabl
e - recalling the effect of a curtain) or triangular minimum dimensions, not to
count on the European brands that introduce the name Brazil, or have a name "Bra
zilianized" 6, as in other sectors of the fashion is often inspired by the Frenc
h and Italian to name the brands. In summary, within your style the Brazilians h
ave to compete not only among themselves but also with international brands who
interpret and adapt to the tastes of each market. It is also worth examining som
e números7 to understand what is happening at the moment: 1. The growth of Brazi
lian beach fashion, doubled in number of units exported in 2003 compared to 2002
(from 3 6.4 million units). In 2004 growth slowed significantly (+8%).
2. Figures show their best side in relation to export prices, rising more than 5
0% in 2004 over the previous year. The "modest" 8% growth in number of items act
ually represent a 65% increase in export value. 3. Production (units) grows, but
at a pace much more modest: 2.5% in 2004 over the previous year. As domestic co
nsumption in the same period, 1.7%, even though it was estimated to exceed 15%.
4. When compared with the major European producers, Brazil exports 20% less than
the number of parts in Spain and less than half in value. Concerning Italy, Bra
zil exports about half of the pieces, producing one fifth of the value that Ital
ians. 5. The domestic market is estimated at 1400 million Euros. Almost double t
he Italian, who is worth about 750 million Euros. Almost triple the Spaniard, wh
o is worth about 550 million Euros. And three times the French, which is worth a
bout 400 million euros. The Brazilian market will, predictably, a captive of loc
al brands, with no significant constraints on the segments medium, medium-and hi
gh-including the top, where the penetration of European brands could only take p
lace in the segment of high fashion, and perhaps some tracks structured products
, in both cases, with moderate volumes. Currently, exports of 'beachwear' Europe
to Brazil are insignificant: the statistics encrypt 9000 units sold on average
for less than e5 unit. That is, a market that does not exist today, for European
s, not even in the high ranges.€In the lower segments of the Brazilians fear the
penetration of Chinese textiles in its market, the same way that China does not
give much hope to Brazil to become an "actor" in the foreground as an exporter
of large volumes. The Brazilian brands that are imposed internationally, and tho
se that will impose in the future, need the same ingredients as the brands from
other parts of the world or a level of creative and truly unique product differe
ntiation that allows them to capture the attention of distributors and potential
investors, or financial resources sufficient to sustain a process of internatio
nal expansion, preferably dominating component of the distribution. Better still
, and increasingly important, is the sum of two components. But the factor or "B
razil brand" is critical in that the contacts are still superficial, like a sort
of "endorsement", which lasts just long enough to show which are the "weapons"
that are available. It's a boost, not a motor. The fact is unlikely we will see
a boom of Brazilian brands in the European market, but this does not invalidate
the 'beachwear' Brazil will win here in Europe chord positions with the potentia
l of its major brands and manufacturers.
MORE BRAZIL IN EUROPE Today arrive in Brazil for all of Europe about 1.7 million
of bikinis and swimsuits. Portugal and Italy are the main destinations, but wit
h different nuances. Portugal is the leading importer, because 9% of Brazilian e
xports are directed to a country with a limited market in terms of dimensions, b
ut for the marks of the South American country has other advantages: the first i
s the cultural affinity is easier for Brazilians find a trading partner, becomin
g in some cases in storage in Europe for some major brands such as Tea Rose. But
there are also aspects of fashion: the young Portuguese are adept clear proposa
ls Brazilian 'beachwear', and do not demand changes in the modeling as requested
in the U.S. and other European markets. Making the equation between imports and
market size, we can say that in Portugal the 'beachwear' Brazil represents abou
t 10% of local consumption. Italy is the second market in Europe (8%), despite i
mporting a similar amount to that of Portugal, this is diluted in more than 38 m
illion pieces of 'beachwear' that are consumed and that the convert, alongside S
pain , the largest European market. Italians also tend to import the 'beachwear'
Brazil, with the original model, since for them takes the form of a niche produ
ct (to make a difference) and many Italian and other Mediterranean women (Greek
and French for example), enjoy the typical low cut models. The exception, so far
, is Spain which has, in addition to brands and a strong local production, own l
ikes, in some cases antagonistic to the Brazilian style, for example, a preferen
ce (even among most young people) on models that ensure greater coverage (full b
ottom). But, as the testimonies show that we summarize below, although the Brazi
lian brands concentrate their exports in the countries of southern Europe and Me
diterranean, placing their products a little everywhere. They have brands that e
xport seemingly far-fetched even for destinations such as Russia or Finland; ada
pt modeling the markets as the U.S. (which accounts for one third of exports), a
nd show an eagerness to expand into supplying the heart with little internationa
l experience ( in most cases). Internationally renowned brands, such as Rosa Cha
by Amir Slama, we find that for between E80 and E450 in his store in Lisbon, an
d in boutiques and 'department stores' scattered in various countries of Europe,
or Lenny, Lenny Niemeyer, present in Harvey Nichol's, or in the exclusive Quint
a do Lago, Algarve (among many other outlets in Europe), with retail prices rang
ing between E80 and E200. In a little more affordable ranges, Salinas, Poko Pano
, Coconut Water and Maritime Co. (Group Rosset, considered the largest manufactu
rer of fabrics with Lycra Latin America) are present in several European markets
increasing year after year their presence and sales.
New small businesses are also trying to make the leap, in some cases attached to
a consortium around a common brand and image, often strongly associated with cu
lture of a region of Brazil, as Mark Pantanal. ABIT, along with APEX (Agency for
the promotion of Brazilian exports) convened a group of companies that attended
the last edition of Lyon Mode City, a year in which Brazil was for many reasons
, the news in France€in which we find small exporters, companies already "season
ed" to begin to take their first steps in the foreign market, the aforementioned
joint ventures, and companies with a strong artisan (hand-painted fabrics, etc.
).. Everyone, big and small designers or exciting, discovered in recent years th
at its main asset is the reaffirmation of their own culture, ie the "brasilina"
highlighted elsewhere in this dossier. If the cost of labor is of course very co
mpetitive when compared to European or American, is not in relation to Asia. It
allows them a degree of competitiveness in the medium ranges with papers receive
d by the public usually between e30 and e40, but to show up and get really compe
titive to differentiate the Brazilian brands in all segments (even in private la
bel) use each more personalization by introducing the element of craftsmanship t
hat adds value, and aesthetic, cultural to industrial product that is the bikini
or bathing suit. Applications, the crochet, the elements of nature such as seed
s, precious stones, were added to the already known printed motifs. The penetrat
ion of brands in Europe will be made through the differentiation and development
of products. The increase in the average export price of the 'beachwear' Brazil
ian who comes to Europe at a time that, in general terms, our continent is to be
imported by lower prices, reflects the definition of a new paradigm, based incr
easingly on value added, strongly focused on the cultural component and not only
in the volume and manufacturing capacity.
SALINAS
CHICK 101
In the south, beyond the Europeanized style that typically characterize as Sao P
aulo, Santa Catarina as there are regions where the culture of 'surf' is very st
rong, influencing styles, colors and type of printing process, which somehow rel
ate to the global tribe ranging from California , Hawaii, or Florianopolis. Turn
ing to practical subjects, where the Brazilians buy their bikinis and swimsuits,
and how much they are willing to pay? It is estimated that Brazil are sold in m
ore than 200 million parts (male and female) and the ratio of purchased parts pe
r inhabitant is 60% higher than the Mediterranean countries which consume more (
Italy and Spain). As David Azulay, in our interview: 'in Brazil "beachwear" is a
serious thing. " There are many shops devoted exclusively to "beach wear" ('bea
chwear' clothing and some slight additions), and virtually all the relevant mark
s, have at least a small chain of boutiques, which sell their lines. There are a
lso multi-brand stores, dedicated to sportswear, surf-shops "and of course, beca
use there is no shortage, supermarkets like Carrefour. It is generally accepted
that the "psychological price", ie the value that the Brazilian woman is willing
to pay for a brand bikini, it is placed between 25 and 30 Euros. The trade begi
ns by street vendors who sell in addition to local products also products import
ed from China and accessories from India. The segmentation is gradually rising,
and hypermarkets a bikini cost about 7 Euros; chains popular retail outlets such
as C & A Shops and Pernambucanas up to 10-15 Euros. And in the boutiques locate
d in the 'malls', which for security became the privileged place for shopping, y
ou will find most stores one brand of the leading manufacturers, engaged prices
between 25 to 90 Euros (in the ranges more luxurious). There are stores like the
aforementioned Daslu, and some single brand boutiques located in the most exclu
sive areas of large cities (like Oscar Freire in Sao Paulo) selling ranges decid
edly more expensive for a narrow minority. In the article the respondents claim
that Brazilian women are prepared to pay proportionally more for a good bikini f
or a good piece of clothing, and shopping malls often find more than a store ded
icated to "Swimwear" (term Brazilian). The head of brand Lagoon told us in an in
terview situation limit: a shopping center in northeastern Brazil accounted for
16 retail outlets dedicated to the sector. Brazil has the market, but also manuf
acturers and brands have committed to serve you: It is estimated about 750 manuf
acturers of beach fashion spread throughout the territory. We left for the final
as some curious differences of views between each side of the Atlantic: Brazili
an women, unlike Europe, rarely do topless modesty that seems anachronistic for
Europeans taking
INSIDE OUT
CONSUMPTION: WHERE AND HOW TO BUY A FASHION BALNEA Brazilians in Brazil, with it
s eight thousand miles of coastline and eight months of sun,€summer is much more
than just the season of beaches and vacation. It is impossible to generalize, g
iven the scale and diversity of Brazil (ethnic, cultural and economic), but can
be explained in a few lines some of its main characteristics and customs of the
local market. First there are two ways of interpreting the 'beachwear' Brazilian
that demarcate its border (coastal) from Rio de Janeiro. From the beaches of Ri
o to the far north coast, live intensely the beach, seems more the body and, in
general, has a lower purchasing power. Prefer the models lower in the top called
the "curtain" or without the triangular structure, which in some cases little m
ore than cover the nipple, the bottom of small size and lower strap, and the str
ing, which the locals call "dental floss". The models are colorful and the bet i
s placed on the prints that are what really personalizes the models and where th
e marks "mark" the land itself creative. The beaches of Rio de Janeiro and the N
ortheast reflect the image Europeans have of how the Brazilian women living on t
he beach. Yet there are nuances between the beaches of Rio and the Northeast: Ri
o de Janeiro is more modern and sexy, it is assumed as trend-setter. In the Nort
heast lives up to the beach by beach, in a way that is freer, less constrained b
y the "stress" the cult of the body in Rio. In southern and southeastern Brazil,
more specifically from Sao Paulo, we have a different consumer. Using humorous
and irreverent language of the Brazilians, we would say that your standard bikin
i is between that of a Brazilian "well behaved" and a European "bold". 'Gags' as
ide, what happens is that these regions we find a greater influence of European
emigration which was compounded during the entire twentieth century to the Portu
guese colonizers: they are Italians, Spaniards, Germans, Slavs and also Asians,
especially Japanese and Koreans. In collections designed for these areas, we fou
nd a greater concern with the structuring of the top bikini with crowns structur
ed, the 'bandeau,' and at the bottom there care to provide options for those wan
ting a higher coverage. On the lines are more frequent ornamentation, partly bec
ause it is designed merely to the beach, as the Sao Paulo are more frequent club
s and swimming pools. The tones are more sober and less exuberant prints, and ar
e more frequent and smooth models. The purchasing power is higher, since find ou
rselves in the most economically developed of the country as in the case of Rio
de Janeiro and the Northeast, Southeast and South also are nuances between the v
arious areas: Sao Paulo, as big city (more than 20 million inhabitants) brings t
ogether people from all regions and customs, so it is often said that in São Pau
lo "fits all".
account the small size of the bikinis they wear. Moreover, the Brazilian find ab
solutely ugly versions "full bottom" of slips, some favorite parts of Europe and
the USA. Another divergent point of view: for many Brazilians, the mark left by
the bikini tan is sexy. Rather, the European balancing the tone of the sections
covered during sun exposure, using precisely the topless and the 'solarium'. Fi
nally, the most important and perhaps most controversial among manufacturers: th
e Brazilians are accustomed to bikinis and swimwear with a coarse mesh and uphol
stered pieces, which is with us into disuse, except for shaping lines and contai
nment . It is argued that the Brazilians prefer the durability (hence prefer pie
ces with thicker tissues), and do not want the fabric originates transparencies
in the reporting of this article some Brazilian manufacturers have stated that t
he European prefer finer meshes and without liners because care to note that the
transparencies, which is perhaps an error of assessment. In fact, also in Europ
e is used in mesh and Lycra thicker liners (although in some lines and marks sti
ll use). However, recent screens used by leading manufacturers can be thinner wh
ile more compact (it is technically possible with the new generations of yarn us
ed). Thus, we produce lighter mesh that dries faster, more resistant to chlorine
and saltpeter, dispensing liners because there are apparent. In Europe it took
a few seasons, and the bet of the top brand in these loops, so that consumers ad
here and lose the initial fears.
MARKS
SEAL ON PERSONALITY OF THE CREATOR. DAVID AZULAY EA GLOBAL TRIBE "" Blue Man is
a brand focused in this tribe in the world,€that appeals to women and surfer coo
l "(cool) elsewhere in the world." For David Azulay '... "Cool" today is to stay
young, and no ambition to conquer the world. " The difference is in the Blueman
'brasilina pop', as he himself set. Looking always print this attitude, which c
atapulted him into the fashion world, left his homeland in Para (very near the e
quator, in the extreme north of Brazil), to venture in the late '60s in Ipanema,
bringing novelty as the bikini jeans (now icon brand). With a target price to t
he public between e90 and E120 bikini, the brand has 21 stores, owned and in fra
nchising in Brazil and exports its routes mainly to Portugal, Spain, Caribbean,
Mexico, England, USA and Japan AMIR SLAMA DECADE AND GOLD Amir Slama, designer o
f the Rose Tea, demonstrates beyond the undeniable creativity that prints on the
mark, a great capacity to make a difference and move itself in the exclusive ci
rcle of international fashion. Built in Sao Paulo in 1988, Tea Rose stood out fr
om the beginning combines the originality with which materials, concepts, commun
ication, generating great curiosity and interest in each new collection. Overvie
w, giving rise to the best of his Brazilian roots, appears to be the philosophy
that guides Slama. With an exploit enviable, Tea Rose is perhaps the most famous
Brazilian brand internationally when it comes to beachwear, albeit now also inc
lude the collection of jeanswear products and lingerie. The international career
started in 1997 by America, Los Angeles and New York, consolidating its positio
n from 2000 through participation in parades Mercedes Benz Fahion Week (New York
). In 2002 he was the arrival in Europe, being the gateway to Lisbon, with the o
pening of a first 'flagship store', which preceded the second international open
ness, this time in Miami. Tea Rose, with models that generally outweigh the E150
in stores, is present from Bergdorf Goodmann in New York to Harvey Nichols in L
ondon, or
BLUE MAN
ROSA CHA
LENNY
CHICK 103
Printemps in Paris, plus more than 200 multi-brand outlets across the world, in
addition to about 25 single brand stores and about half a thousand multi-brand s
tores in Brazil. But Amir Slama promises not stop there, opening new fronts to d
iversify the range and creation of new brands such as salts, and new projects su
ch as the contract with Speedo to launch a sporty "fashion" or, continuing a rec
ord similar in terms of marketing, the creation of a collection by Naomi Campbel
l Rosa Cha. LENNY, CHIC PAULISTA CARIOCA SOUL WITH A creative Ortiz Lenny Niemey
er, Sao Paulo home (Sao Paulo), is defined with "soul" Carioca (Rio de Janeiro).
It is this dichotomy, the greater sophistication that characterizes São Paulo,
Rio and sensuality "opinion maker" (he says), who are the collections of the mar
ks of a more "couture" beachwear Brazilian, who is presented with the name of th
eir designer. Lenny stands out for the elegance with which dress their models co
nsidering the Brazilian brand with a style closer to Europe, often using the bri
ghtness, pleats, macrame and always looking to have answers in the collection, i
n terms of modeling, for the most various types of morphology. The first store L
enny appeared in 1993 in Ipanema. Today, after ten years in the market and with
the dedication of its line Beach Couture, the brand's products (which has a scor
e of its own stores in Brazil) can be found in multi-brand stores scattered arou
nd the world such as Le Bon Marché ( France); Sack's (USA), Barney's and Harvey
Nichol's (UK) and in other countries such as Dominican Republic, South Africa, A
rgentina, Venezuela, Canada, Portugal, Greece, Spain, Hong Kong and Australia. F
EATURED BRANDS: YOUNG, FUN, SENSUAL. SALINAS, founded by designer Jacqueline De
Biasi, had some colorful pop credentials, models humorous where simplicity and j
oy reflect the "mood" of a Rio de Janeiro ideal. In Brazil, Salinas is currently
sold in eight own boutiques and stores in eleven single brand franchise, plus s
ome 300 multi-brand outlets throughout Brazil. On the external front, both the d
istribution network that Salinas has in the U.S. (where the brand can be found a
t Saks and Victoria's Secret), and in Europe, were expanded in 2002, obtendose a
tripling of sales in just two years. USA, Portugal, Spain, Greece and Russia ar
e among the main markets.
The style of fun POKO PANO, Paula Robba, starts with the choice of brand name, a
real declaration of intentions who want to fill the beaches of sexy models, irr
everent and entertaining.€The focus on the easy coordination of parts of differe
nt models, color and theme relaxed, make the target audience are young women (al
so for the young at heart ...). Poko Pano is on the market for 18 years, and Bra
zil has six boutiques to brand themselves, three of them in Sao Paulo. In additi
on to the points of sale, Poko Pano is in multi-brand stores across the country.
In terms of foreign markets, brand exports to Portugal (which has three stores
and numerous multi-client), Spain, Italy, USA, Mexico, Chile, Bolivia, South Afr
ica, Australia, Russia and Japan mark COCONUT WATER was born in 1985 in Fortalez
a (Northeastern Brazil) created by Liana Thomaz. The models most characteristic
of the brand (and preferred by the Brazilians) are simple, with colorful prints,
in a spirit 'pop', other more elaborate lines in earth tones, embroidered with
gold, jewels and hardware (responding to market demand and outer segments consum
ers more classical and / or sophisticated). Currently, Coconut Water is present
in Brazil in over 250 stores and 13 multi-brand boutiques single brand. U.S., Ca
nada, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Japan, Australia, Puerto Rico, Virgin Is
lands, Caribbean, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Costa Rica and South Africa are am
ong the 20 countries where the brand exports. CIA. MARITIME founded in 1990, bel
ongs to Group Rosset's largest producer of fabrics with Lycra in South America T
he gamble lies well on the development of new tissues, modeling techniques and f
inishes, accessories that give
INSIDE OUT
SALINAS
POKO PANO
AGUA DE COCO
CIA. MARITIMA
models a touch of exclusivity. Rosset In 1999 the Group decided to launch the se
cond brand, Freshwater, targeting an even younger audience than the Cia Maritima
, which has a higher content in terms of fashion in their collections. Freshwate
r affixed to the striking color combinations, fun, relaxed atmosphere on the bea
ch. The Maritime Co. is one of the most important brands in Brazil by its spread
, considering the largest exporter of bikinis in the country with essentially th
eir markets in Europe and USA. ON SOME EMERGING VALUES AND GROUPS BOUND Created
by former fashion editor Amalia Spinardi, OJ DE MER aims to give a new face to t
he Brazilian beachwear. Starting with modeling, which seeks to cover a little mo
re body, though trying not to abandon the sensual side. Details seek to give a c
hic look, sometimes luxurious, with parts such as rhinestone buckles, metal ring
s, and pearls correntezinhas boogie. Spinardi says "my bikini is clean and free
prints for the customer to put his style in accessories." It is a brand new, who
wants to excel by the exclusive, sold in a few outlets, but rather selected, es
pecially in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, and also in New York and Portugal. To
the creators of the brand "paulista" salty, freedom of thought and the general f
low of information that characterize today's society are the basis for the devel
opment of collections that result in female form, bold, modern and comfortable.
Exports are concentrated in the U.S. and Portugal, as a platform to expand to ot
her European countries.
"
IN SHOPPING CENTER IN NORTHEASTERN countries accounted for 16 DEDICATED TO THE P
OINT OF SALE AREA. The BRAZIL HAS THE MARKET, BUT ALSO HAVE BRAND MANUFACTURERS
AND COMMITTED to serve you: It is estimated about 750 S MANUFACTURER OF FASHION
towns across the entire territory
ACCALARENTIA of Rio de Janeiro, with bikinis that excel for their exclusivity wi
th handcrafted details that refer to personality and sensuality of Brazil. The m
ark is located in a middle-upper segment (their bikinis are sold in stores for a
bout 40/50 Euros). Export to Portugal, Spain, Italy, France and USA. EAGLE GROUP
founded in 1937, is a leading manufacturer of Brazilian beachwear. Targeting th
eir collections in five brands, own and licensees, which are distributed through
out Brazil. In the classical segment features the Eagle group, which seeks to ba
lance between quality and competitive prices. And Catalina brand licensed by the
Warnaco Group, with patterned fabrics and exclusive targeting women classic, wh
ich revised a brand whose fame dates back to decades 50 and 60; Manvia, models t
hat update the classic, Club del Sol, distributed exclusively in Brazil by the g
roup, addressed to upper class, and Beach Brazil, which is the brand most export
ed by the enterprise in which their creators try to synthesise the best of Brazi
lian creativity by presenting a pattern of young and bold design, which in Brazi
l only is available in stores franchised by the mark.
"
SALGA
ACCA LARENTIA
Manvia
CHICK 105
HALF TONE
LYON MODE CITY: BRAZIL SHOW YOUR SIDE Eclectica
ABIT and APEX gathered a group of brands who wanted to feel the pulse of the Eur
opean market through the "bazaar" French underwear and bathing. It should always
emphasize that, despite being present at the collective, each company showed a
distinct profile, and even different strategic objectives. Small businesses with
highly personalized and others dedicated to large retailers, manufacturers look
ing for customers 'private label'; emerging fashion brands, regional consortia f
ormed by small and medium enterprises. In the following we sought a synthetic ch
aracterization of each.
MID TOM, founded in 1986, in Fortaleza (Northeast Brazil), where it has four sto
res. In Lyon sought to show its strong point, the creative level of your collect
ion (especially the trikini) and supplements. The brand is exported to Europe (P
ortugal and Italy), and some South American countries like Uruguay and Peru. BIK
INI BRAZIL of Stan and Denise Altman sell their ranges in supermarkets such as C
arrefour and Sonae Group in Brazil, exports to Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, E
ngland, USA, Cyprus,
Greece and Central America. In the formation of collections seek to convey the r
ichness of the natural heritage of Brazil, as the patterns of exotic fruits from
the Amazon and floral-inspired 'victory region'. BIKINI GAAZ was created three
years ago in Bahia (northeastern Brazil), to target a high range of the market (
the public gets between 70-200 Euros). Betting on digital technology applied to
create unique prints, as well as in extreme customization of the models. With a
production capacity of 60,000 units per year, only 20% goes to the Brazilian mar
ket (where Gaaz Bikinis has four stores). The remaining 80% of production is exp
orted to countries like Portugal, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Israel, So
uth Africa PANTANAL FASHION EXPORT, established in 1999, holder of the trademark
Pantanal, is a consortium formed by combining six companies selling their produ
cts for over 10 years in Brazil, and has a production capacity of 600,000 pieces
per year (not dedicated exclusively to fashion bathing). Has the city of Campo
Grande (state capital of Mato Grosso do Sul, known precisely by a nature reserve
incalculable ecological value) the center of all operations. Mark Pantanal is s
trongly linked to regional and indigenous culture and the preservation of the en
vironment (refer to part of the sales projects preserves), looking at his style
that interpret Brazil ecologically lush and sensuous at the same time, but away
from the cliché of Brazil's Carnival . Natural dyes are used in parts, and to va
lue them details craft made in the bone of ox horn, or autochthonous seeds. The
consortium sells its products primarily in Brazil but has been exporting to coun
tries like Germany France and Italy.
INSIDE OUT
BIKINI BRAZIL
GAAZ BIKINI
PANTANAL
Mamluk and a brand new brand created in São Paulo, structured in a textile works
hop. The focus falls on the hand-painted fabrics and unique designs, and overall
collections on most sales still come from the beach accessories. The initial su
ccess seems evident, since last year already exported to 17 countries, including
Portugal, Spain, Greece, Italy, France. In BRAZIL SUL is a pioneer in 'active w
ear' Brazil, producing models for fitness, swimwear and sportswear, all with a t
ouch of Brazilian fashion. 60% of production (which in total is approximately 70
0,000 pieces) is intended for the local market where, in addition to multi-trade
, has nine outlets themselves. A substantial 40% are exported, mainly to the U.S
.. South Brazil is opening outlets themselves also outside their country, and La
tin America already has seven in Mexico, two in Paraguay and one in Chile. In Eu
rope was opened a store in the metropolitan area of Lisbon. The presence in over
800 multi-brand outlets around the world complement the international distribut
ion network. 12 years on the market, Acquamaris, marks of origin Sao Paulo, prod
uces bikinis with embroidery patterns and exclusive positioning itself in the mi
ddle segment, intended to target an age between 18 and 35 years. In Brazil, besi
des selling its products in multi-brand stores, Acquamaris has 16 single brand s
tores. In BRAZIL PEAR, created just four years, the maximum bet is for the custo
mization of models with exclusive fabrics, hand painted and finishing techniques
using sophisticated, with Lycra crochet also used in macramé, besides the ennob
lement of the parts with additions or with semi-precious stones, wood, shells an
d feathers.€Pera says that Brazil has opted for a type
BRAZIL SOUTH
Acquamaris
Modeling International, and shows a clear inclination towards the foreign market
. This year marks the collections of major European retailers lured such as Gale
ries Lafayette, La Samaritaine (in France) and El Corte English. The brand expor
ts to the U.S., Spain, Italy, Portugal, Holland, Greece, Israel, Mexico, France,
Switzerland, Germany, Finland, Denmark, Slovenia, Dominican Republic, Guatemala
, Puerto Rico and Uruguay. BRAZIL BLEND appeared in Lyon MC as a consortium coor
dinated by the entity Sebrae trademarks of Ceara, Brazil from that state (locate
d in the northeast, and having as its capital Fortaleza)
BRAZIL PEAR
BRAZIL BLEND
BLUE BRAZIL
CHICK 107
INSIDE OUT
SUNERGY
Fulo
CLEO BRAZIL
what is now the third most important hub in terms of production 'beachwear' in B
razil. Daughter of the Sun, Emanuelle, Body Water and Caíupe are brands that hav
e as their common bond manual work done on paintings and embroidery featuring th
e collections, a bet on the customization of each model. Exports are targeted at
Western Europe, USA, Israel, some Caribbean countries and some African countrie
s (Angola, Senegal, Cape Verde, Cote d'Ivoire). Firmo Gusmao, founder of BLUE BR
AZIL, wanted to make a mark in their long sustained international experience, se
eking to unite the styling and ability to surprise the Brazilian talent, the mal
leability of collections needed to move into markets as diverse as European, Ame
rican and Asia (Japan), where the brand exports most of its production SUNERGY (
in Brazil Sol & Power) is defined as a cross mark in terms of segmentation, besi
des seeking to maintain a high standard of quality, a style marked by handcrafte
d details, it does not prevent keeping a range of competitive prices. The brand
created in 1989 has been present for nine years in the international market in c
ountries like Italy, Germany, England, Japan, Portugal, France, Spain, Switzerla
nd, Netherlands, Puerto Rico, and USA, among others (in total 40 countries). LAG
OON is on the market since 1995 and is resident in Curitiba (Parana state in the
extreme south of the country) operating in the fashion segment bathing and 'fit
ness' (marked KAS). In terms of style has the unmistakable stamp of the marks fr
om the south of Brazil, more "well-behaved" than the locals, most elegant and eq
ually creative. The Lagoon is present in the center and south of the country wit
h its own stores (KAS) in some major towns or cities with high purchasing power,
in addition to neighboring Paraguay and Uruguay (Punta del Este). Fulo was crea
ted just four years ago in Rio de Janeiro, with two objectives: to be branded wi
th a vocation for exports and, in parallel, have a social function. The collecti
ons bring together all those aspects that are expected of 'beachwear' Brazilian,
being amongst the leading betting elaborate crocheted bikinis and accessories w
ith applications. Fulô started this year for export to countries like Switzerlan
d, Spain (El Corte English and some stores in the Balearic Islands), England, Fr
ance and Portugal. CLEO BRAZIL presented at Lyon Mode City outside the space of
ABIT / APEX, dedicated to the brands. The mark of Vanda War, designer for years
in New York, was established in the market thinking
CHICK 108
international from the start betting on e-business as a strategic channel for sa
les of the brand. In terms of styling, highlights the affirmative defense of gen
uine Brazilian style, drawing on their prints to the inspiration of the work of
local artists, offering a strong vision and sophisticated 'beachwear' Brazilian.
ADDRESSES
AND CONTACTS ON THE TRADEMARKS REFERRED TO IN THIS
REQUEST A REPORT MAY BE CHICK@CHICK-PT.COM
© 2005 CULT CHICK INTIMATE
QUOTES AND ORIGIN OF SOME DATA PUBLISHED:
Quotes 1 of a text of Claudia Pereira da Silva, about the book & Brazil Nu Dress
: ten anthropologists reveal the culture of the body in Rio. Retrieved February
from a recent study released by Unilever. 3 The statistics on cosmetic surgery c
ome from texts of the four associations of the sector in fact it is the reopenin
g of the store in a new location, bigger and more luxurious. Daslu is considered
the most important space for the sale of luxury goods in South America 5 The Br
azilian newspapers that published these data, reached that conclusion on the bas
is of IBGE data on the income of collective living in the "Colosseum", comparing
it with the prices marked on Daslu by Italian jeans brand. 6 Be Brazil, Brazil
Okay, Colors of Brazil, Colors of the Sun, Too Hot Brazil, and a long etcetera.
7 The data direct or derivative, comes from ABIT (Brazil), SMI (Italy); citycar
(Spain), ATP (from all countries listed).