How to buy a used car?

Often, buying a used car can be a good deal, bad if you'r e not careful, it could end up becoming a big headache. And so, we resolved the prepare a manual with some tips to follow when buying a used vehicle or semi-new. You'll see that just by following some simple steps, you c an, and avoid future problems, make a great deal. Step 1 Define what you want: The first thing to do is set how you want to spend on a car, and how you want to pay for it. After the budget prepared, you should check which models and ranges of years to fit it. To do this just search the sit es devoted to buying and selling cars, filtering by price. From the obtained mod els, make a list of four or five models that most interest you. Know that the me ans of payment financing, the value of interest rate rises according to the age of the car. So stay tuned, because the different interest rates, financing a VW Gol in the year 1995, can be more expensive than a car with the same model year of manufacture 2000. Just be aware also that what counts for purposes of definin g Jutes rate is the year model of car, and that the year of manufacture is only in effect on the value of the vehicle tax. Another tip is to read the table FIPE , which is based on transactions in Brazil and measures the average price of eac h model year and version. But this table should serve as a guide only, no longer takes into account the state of conservation of vehicles, which when well maint ained can cost 40% more than average and still remain a good deal. Yet it can be a good basis for argument when you're negotiating the price of the car chosen. 2nd step - Do research on the models chosen: Find out about common problems and devaluation of the model chosen. To check the devaluation, just get on the table again and see how FIPE models fall in price on average. First you ascertain the price of the desired model and year and compares with the prices of previous ye ars, this will help get an estimate of how the model will lose value during the period you are with him. Escape models with sharp devaluation compared to other models, this may indicate that the model has a problem conical premature wear or their parts are very expensive. After that, search on common problems presented by the model. This is not difficult, just that you look at the r by typing eg "chevette common problem", in which case you will find that the m odel suffers from water infiltration. But if your search to identify a "common p roblem "that is very serious and costly to be resolved, run the model. - Also wo rth talking to a mechanic you know and trust, it can provide further clarificati on. Step 3 - Find the car you want: Once you know your budget and the possible c andidates to be their next car, it is time to find it out! This is worth everyth ing, search the newspaper websites for the purchase of vehicles, look for dealer ships and dealership, worth up to free market. But do not panic, and do not buy the first car that appears, check several cars before deciding which best suits your requirements. 4th step - Mechanical Inspection: Now that you have a chosen, it is time to inspect the mechanics of the car. As you know, you can not trust everything you hear. Especially if you buy the car of an individual, because thi s type of purchase does not imply the granting of guarantees, only companies are required to ensure their products. You'll have to check the mechanics of the ca r to get rid of future problems. You can do it,€but the ideal is to have a trusted mechanic to help you. Just be aware as well, which is highly recommended to carry out checking the car during the day, while there is sunlight and you can better understand any detail. How many people and companies believe that to sell anything goes. Every time there i s more creativity in "camouflage "defects, making the identification of many of them impossible even for experienced mechanics. For example, there is a" techniq ue "to mask noise from the axle differential of older cars that squeak when they are very worn. This piece is very difficult to find , very expensive to be repa ired, and also can give a lot of headaches (imagine you're at 110 mph on a highw ay, and suddenly your car's axle differential lock). The trick was to open the p

iece , recheála with sawdust and grease more species available and fechala agai n. This inhibited the squeak by up to 1000 km, freeing the dealer having to pay for the guarantee of the item (by law 90 days for engine and transmission). But that does not stop yourself, or your mechanic, identify common problems . Check the suspension. For this, apóiese fully on each fender and drop at once. If the carriage return to start position without bouncing more than once, it is in order. Otherwise, the car needs new shocks. Also check if the vehicle is leve l, if not it may mean that the springs are bent, or even that the car was hit. C heck the steering, wheels and tires. Check that there are gaps in the direction. With the car running, pay close attention to the noises you'll hear on the circ umference and that the car will describe. Dung fully to the left and make a full turn. After manure to the left and repeat the procedure. If you hear popping or grinding noise, it may mean that the CV joints are in trouble and need replacem ent. If the diameters of the circles in which you moved the car are different, m ay mean that the car is misaligned structural problem and probably have been sho cked. With the car moving in a straight line, release the steering wheel and mak e sure he gets out of line, it might mean steering misalignment or suspension pr oblems. Make sure the steering is very heavy, this may mean that the system is d efective. It is advisable that you ask to lift the car on a hydraulic jack. If you do that , you can examine the car further. With the car stopped, push each wheel in all directions, if you feel slack, that can bearings are worn and you have to replac e it. Try to steer the front wheels in search of gaps, which when too great a ha zard to their safety and want to say that the car needs new bushings and termina l direction. Enjoy the car is lifted to examine the tires, which are worn irregu larly, may be saying that the tires need balancing, or that the wheels are bent. Also take time to check the bottom of the car for signs of corrosion on the flo or and exhaust system (which are stuck need replacement) leakage of oil or water for shock poorly secured and evidence of dents or accident (gas tank or caster crumpled at the bottom are normal, but if you identificalos, watch to see if the y are not knitting). Remember, the Most shops that try to retouch crashed cars f orget to clean the bottom, leaving signs, sometimes grotesque, that the car has been retired. Check the engine.With the engine off, check the color of oil, and if he shows no sign of water. This may mean that there are leaks to be fixed. If the oil is very thick (the mechanic can only say that), the engine can be in en d of his life and the seller is "makeup" leaks and noise (usually arises, thick oil in older engines to function for some time). Also check the color of water f rom the radiator to identify corrosion or the presence of oil. The latter means that there is some flaw in the seal between the circulation areas of oil and wat er, which if not corrected soon, could lead an avalanche of problems. With the c ar in neutral, start the engine, expect it to be warm (a minute is enough), then accelerate sharply watching the noises he emits, if you listen to metal noises can identify internal problems in and engine components wear. If your mechanic i s present, ask him to investigate a little further. If it is not serious, then y ou can consult and ask for a discount when negotiating the price. Even with the engine running, see if the smoke coming out of it is not too dark, which means t hat the car is "burning" oil and you'll have to pay with a grinding in the futur

e. In the test street, use the engine brake and verify that it really slows the car , if not reduce, the engine may have a problem of compression, with worn rings o r valves (which is expensive to fix). Remember that this does not apply the test car's brakes. Again on the street (somewhere without moving) usually go straigh t, taking care not to go too fast (choose a speed that you can control the car i n case of any unforeseen serious), slightly loosen the wheel and step on the bra ke to see if the car does not leave the path, if it turns out, is that the brake s are unbalanced or improperly spent. Also listen carefully to see if they do no t emit a metallic sound, which identify or drum pads and discs and pads worn . E xamine the records in search of "scratching" deep, it can identify the ultimate owner carelessness in keeping the brakes, and you may have to change discs soon. Pedal too high, too low or too hard signify defects in the system, or lack of b rake fluid. Step 5 - Inspection of bodywork, interior and equipment: Once the car you want to buy is already approved mechanically, it's time to insp ect the equipment, interior and especially the bodywork of the car. As you know, the bodywork is also a critical part of the inspection, then you better go prep ared with a small magnet wrapped in a piece of flannel (to detect mass without s cratching the bodywork). - Check hood cover portamalas and doors are properly al igned, if any irregular gaps between the parts and the body. Such imperfections may mean that the hinges are very worn or that the structure of the car is badly aligned (almost always due to some serious beating, or misuse of the car, what happens when the car goes much for dirt roads). Also check if these parts fit we ll on the stops and if you hear some creaking and crackling. Not a squeak follow ed by clicking means that the parts just need lubrication. But if you have to us e much force to open and close the doors, hood, or cover portamalas or hear crea ks and groans while performing the movements of opening and closing, this can be very severe, indicating where the car is very shot, which already have suffered an accident with serious structural damage. Look at the detail painting of the car not to mention nowhere. If you find diffe rences in the shades of the parts that make up the car, can someone there alread y painted the same. Disregard differences in tone bumpers, spoiler, car or other adornments, such Minor changes are normal and are due mainly to differences amo ng the materials that make up the body (even leaving the factory, the paintings of parts made from plastic or fiberglass often differ from those on metal surfac es). When faced with some irregular area , beat lightly with the fingertips at t he exact point and around, if any mass, the noises of the normal part will be qu

ite different from those issued by the affected party. Look for places where the paint is faded, if the vehicle in question has less than six years of use, are not common and may indicate that the car has received the painting. Because the paints applied in workshops are not as resistant forces of the elements as those applied in the factory. But if the car is already older, it is normal for some parts like hood or bonnet is faded. If you find paint marks on plastic parts, la bels, glass and rubber trims, the car is because the car was painted. Also look for the model identification labels, they should be in the engine compartment an d nobody in their right mind normal remove them. not find it out is an indicatio n that the car has crashed, been repainted, or caught fire. Inside the car, pay attention to see if banks are not torn or stained (some stains are impossible to remove) in the case a car with leather seats and see if they're not dry, in som e cases, drying is irreversible and undoubtedly will lead to ruptures in the mat erial. Pay attention also in the linings of doors and ceiling and trim panel are good, that too is relative age of the car and on what terms he used to be used. comprarse When cars equipped with airbags, you should take extra care. It is ve ry common that when such a car is involved in an accident, the only things that are repaired are the bodywork and the linings of the panel and steering wheel, l eaving behind the airbag system, which must be completely replaced. So look for evidence of an exchange of liners of the panel and the steering wheel. When thes e substitutions are poorly made, they leave traces. Check that the sound systems (if this original is very valuable), air conditioni ng, hot air, rear defroster, mirrors, headlights, windshield wipers, lifting gla sses (some models like the VW Gol two doors of the second generation, tend suffe r breaks in the lifting system of windows), interior lights and the panel are wo rking properly. Check also all the external lights of the vehicle such as lights , brake lights, headlights or fog miles, flashing noodles, side turn signals or those who are positioned in the mirrors and lighting board. Check the horn, spee dometer, rev counter, fuel gauge and other indicators are working correctly. Loo k also if the mileage matches the apparent age of the car. Make sure the car has all the equipment required, such as steppe, monkey, triangle, fire extinguisher (check if this is within the validity period) and other equipment. Step 6 - Vehicle Inspection of documents: Now that you know that the car will ta ke home this up with maintenance, it's time to check the documentation of the ca r. We leave this last item because it is the only one who can cost anything, sin ce depending on the situation, you'll have to use the services of a specialist. - Check the authenticity of documents presented, the car and the seller.€There are situations where the car is sold to banks or financial firms in these cases, the owner is legally prevented from selling or transferring the vehicle without asking the company. And in some cases, sellers can erase the name of the compan y to whom the goods is realized, that's why you have to checalo. - In possession of registration numbers (board) and chassis (do not rely on the document and ch eck it yourself) and RENAVAM, and the owner's name, do a search of property and fines over the phone or the website of your DETRAN state. Also ask for a certifi cate of ownership to the organ. Take your time to see if there is pendency of a fine or tax relating to the vehicle. In our country, fines and unpaid taxes, are tied to the vehicle and not the owner, making it impossible to transfer without proper payment of pendency. - Now that you know is good and the vehicle belongs to whom belongs the seller says it's time to move the car. We recommend that yo u go to the office accompanied by the seller. Also do not give any kind of advan

ce before the firm is recognized. Now that you've checked the car and the documents and have the receipt of shipme nt, simply transfer the car to his name. Because the bureaucracy to do so, we re commend that you hire a broker to do so. Just be aware, you have 30 days to tran sfer the well with the DETRAN.