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I.Preparing the wood.

1.Sanding and smoothing:


A.Sanding.
a) begin with a sandpaper coarse enough to cut the flaw without creating larger
scratches than necessary. Usualy 80 or 100 grit
b) once the flaws have been removed, sand out scratches left by coarse
sandpaper. Usualy 150,180 or 220. The scatch size makes a difference in color
intensity when using a stain, the finer the grit i sand with, the less a stain will
color the wood. This is true because there is less space in each sanding scatch
for the pigment to lodge. (Usualy to use:180 grit maximum). The gol is to
produce a surface that does not show machine marks or sanding scratches after
you apply a stain or finish.
-sanding by hand, requires a sanding in the direction of the grain
-no matter how fine the final grit you use, you won't remove all of the tiny wood
fibers that swell and make the wood rough to the touch if water is applied. If you
intend to use a stain or finish that contains water, you may want to dewhisker
the wood after your normal sandind steps, that means to wet the wood and
resand it smooth after the water dries out.
B.Smoothing. (dewhiskering/whiskering or sponging)
Whenever water comes in contact with wood, the wood fibers swell, causing the
wood to feel rough to the touch after it has dried. All stains and finishes that
contain water raise the grain of the wood. It can also reduce the depth and
clarity of the finish. The most effective way to deal with it is to make the fibers
swell and then sand them level before applying the stain or finish. Once
removed, the raised grain won;t reoccur appreciably.
-after sandind the wood about 150-180 grit, wet it with a sponge or cloth to the
same extent as you will with the stain or finish. Just short of puddling is about
right
-let the wood dry overnight then sand off the raised grain with a sandpaper grit
that smoothes the surface efficiently without sandind deeper than necesary
(usualy the same or one-number grit higher than the last grit used). Dull (used)
sandpaper is best because it is less likely to remove more than just the raised
grain. If you don;t have any dull sandpaper, you can make some by rubbing two
pieces of sandpaper togheter.
-Sand lightly. You want to sand just enough to make the wood feel smooth again.
If you sand any deeper, you will get below the wood fibers that you have been
swollen, and you will raise the grain agaibn when you will wet the wood.
C.Cleaning off the dust.
-vacuum or compressed air

Sprayguns:
-the upper knob adjusts the amount of air
By screwing the upper knob, you relax the fun width until it becomes circular
-the lower knob adjusts the amount of liquid exiting through the fluid nozzle
By screwing in the lower knob you limit how far back you can pull the trigger
,which reduces the amount of luquid exiting the gun
Spraying technique:
-arrange a light source above and in front of you so you can see whats
happening by looking at the relflection in the surface
-keep the gun pointed perpendicular to the surface of the wood. Do not rock the
gun because you will get an uneven build
-use a small fan pattern on edges,rails,turning and other narrow surfaces
-use a wide fan pattern on large ,wide surfaces
-begin sprating 6 inches to the side of the wood,and move the spray onto the
wood. Keep moving at uniform speed
-keep the gun at uniform distance from the surface of the wood (6-10 inches).
Too close makes runs, too far makes dry spray.
-overlap each previous stroke by half.