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military illustrated 6.50 - December16 (issue 068)

Maultier nebelwerfer Csaba armoured car DT-74 Soviet tractor plus references and more...
A radical rework of Revells classic 1:9 Zndapp KS750 kit

AFV edition

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Contents modeller
military illustrated

ISSUE No.068 December 2016

24 Military model product news

Sixteen new military kits on parade

A photo-report from this years Moson Model
Show, Hungary

New and recent accessory sets and
modelling materials


Stan Spooner builds and paints some
Hungarian hardware

Building, painting and weathering
Balaton-Modells 1:35 DT-74 tractor


50 Robert Dpp describes how he reworked
Revells 1:9 Zndapp KS 750

44 ZSU-57-2 SPARKA
A photo report on the ZSU-57-2 SPAAG

Making some key improvements to the
Hobbyboss 1:35 T-24 Soviet medium tank

Building Tamiyas re-issue of the Italeri
Panzerwerfer 42

Military modelling-related book reviews

A Royal Navy team in Cherbourg, 44


AFV Edition 3

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1:35 155MM M40 BIG SHOT
Tamiya has announced this almost all new TAMIYA
kit (only the suspension parts from the recent 1:35 US M3 Tank
'Easy Eight' Sherman are re-used) of the US Lee
1:35 US Light Tank
Army 155mm M40 'Big Shot' self-propelled
M3 Stuart
gun. It comes with the full complement of eight
crewmen and two markings-options recreating
Korean War 937th Field Artillery Battalion DRAGON
M40s. The hydraulic dampers include metal 1:35 Egyptian
outer-tubes for a realistic finish, the rear gate Sherman 03
can be assembled up or down; individual pulley 1:35 15cm
parts are included. The model provides photo- s.IG.33/2 (Sf)
etched parts to recreate the engine grilles and Jagdpanzer 38(t)
clear parts are included for lights and optics
for the cupolas. One-piece flexible tracks and a
range of accessories will be found in the box. HAULER
Metal barrel 1:72 King Tiger PE
A separately available aluminium gun barrel
will be released at the same time as the M40
kit. The tip of barrel interior features rifling detail MENG
and comes with brass projectiles, plus decals. 1:35 King Tiger

1:35 Airboat
Following the JGSDF Type 10 tank, the 1:48 Military Miniature TAKOM
Series is to receive another modern-day Japanese subject in the 1:35 King Tiger
shape of the 4x4 light armoured vehicle. The kit will feature the split Henschel Turret full
roof hatch (can be assembled open or closed) and the 5.56mm interior, no zimmerit
'Minimi' machine gun. It will come with a driver figure equipped 1:35 King Tiger
with the latest bullet-proof vest. Three markings-options are offered, Porsche Turret full
and parts are included to recreate the different spec vehicles. interior, no zimmerit

1:35 Soviet
Komintern artillery
1:35 Soviet KV-7
(Object 227)
1:35 Kazakhstan

NEW FROM 1:35 Champagne
and Cognac bottles



The IDF version of the famous US M3 DRAGON RYE FIELD MODEL
1:35 M1A1/A2
halftrack is on its way fro Dragon. 1:35 VOLLKETTENAUFKLRER Abrams full interior
The special adaptations made by the 38 W/7.5CM KANONE 51 L/24
Israeli forces are included and plentiful Dragon have used their excellent
external stowage will be found in the Hetzer kit parts to create this ZVEZDA
box. Unfortunately the seven figures 7.5cm-armed variant, which had an 1:100 Sturmtiger
shown on the box top are not provided. extended, open-topped hull.
The Pz.Bef.Wg.III
was based on the
Pz.III Ausf.H but
featured a fixed


gun, the space TAMIYA 1:35 M48 OVERHAUL
Three exciting new kits have been announced by Takom in 1:35; V2 missile with inside being taken up by radio This months edition of Tamiya Model
Meillerwagen launcher and Hanomag SS100, Krupp Minenrumer 'Rumer S' mine long-range equipment. Dragon's Magazine (October, No.254) features an
clearance vehicle and the WW1 Mk.IV Male/Female '2 in 1'. More news soon. release provides the appropriate article on overhauling Tamiya's classic M48 modifications and extra radio parts. Patton tank. Order your copy now at;
4 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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el b


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TEN HUT! Some of the latest military kits to drop onto
the Military Illustrated Modeller reviews desk


ITEM NO; 3563 ITEM NO; 3558
In this box we have Italeris M983 This kit includes just the
HEMTT kit; still a very decent M901 launcher station
model indeed but no mention of (sadly, the AN/MPQ-53
the kits origin is made on the box radar see in the box art is
top. Coupled to the tractor is the not included!), configured
M901 launch unit with a rotating/ with eight PAC-03 missiles,
elevating launcher, forming the MIM- significantly smaller weapons
14F Patriot system. This kit features the than the PAC-1s featured
PAC-1 SAM missiles of which four are joined in Dragons MIM-104F set.
in their sealed containers for this configuration. Well Again, great detail; just add DEF
detailed mouldings with soft vinyl tyres Models tyres for improved detail



ITEM NO; 35518 COLONIAL ARMY (1939-1940) ITEM NO; 35518
ICMs truck kits are always
packed with detail and this This four-man figure set is
ones no exception. It depicts pleasingly esoteric, representing
the Soviet ZiL-131 emergency Eritrean Ascari of the Italian
truck, although the body Colonial Army, serving with the
of the vehicle features Italians from 1889 to 1941.
tool drawers, a vice and They fought British troops
a grinding wheel, so in Ethiopia in 1940. ICMs
perhaps its not a medical figures are finely detailed,
emergency vehicle. impressive in injection-
Impressive levels of detail moulded plastic


ITEM NO.6535 ITEM NO.03144
Italeris excellent 1:35 Lince This kit originally came out in
(lynx) armoured car from 2015 2002 and was appreciated
has been re-issued in the form for its quality back then. Now
of a United Nations vehicle we have the version with
in overall matt white. It looks add-on side armour panels
strikingly different to the which give it a brutish look.
camouflaged version and The tracks come as straight
makes an appealing model lengths for the upper and
subject. Decals for three lower runs, with individual
UN machines are provided links to wrap around
(UNIFIL Belgian Army) plus two in the drive sprockets and idlers, the best
NATO camouflage solution by far. A very neat little kit


ITEM NO.RM-5006 S18-1100 20MM ITEM NO; CB35049
Rye Field issued their initial
kit of the Abrams in the form Bronco released their initial kit
of the current TUSK variant of the CV.33 tankette back in
and now we have the 2008 and it was appreciated
earlier machine in the form for its delicate intricacy. This
of the M1A1 as it would edition of the model features
have appeared in the an additional sprue with parts
1991 Gulf War. The kit is for the mighty Solothurn S18
fantastically well detailed 20mm anti-tank gun, the
and comes with excellent link-and- barrel of which is provided
length tracks with individual guide-horns and as a big in this release. Great detail all
plus-point, the non-slip texture is moulded in on the hull and turret round with tiny link-length tracks

8 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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Dragon have raided their
ample parts-bin to create Flyhawks second version of
this interesting Pz.II self- the Pz.II ausf.L Luchs (another
propelled gun carriage AFV named after the lynx cat)
and the result is a very includes the special spaced-
busy-looking machine armour over the drivers
with a 5cm Pak sitting compartment. Its a stunning
over an open-topped little production with detail
drivers fighting/ that needs a magnifier to
compartment. Loads appreciate; the mouldings
of detail inside and out; kit are exquisite
comes with DS flexible tracks


ITEM NO.458 ITEM NO.6399
The two-stroke diesel powered Dragon have dipped into the
M-22 was manufactured in parts-bin again to create this
East Germany from 1964 rather interesting version
to 74 and in those ten of the Jagdpanzer 38(t);
years, no less than 42,000 originally created as an
were made. It was used open-topped recovery
by Warsaw Pact countries machine but subsequently
in utility roles; airfields, re-converted to become a
factories, warehouses, 20mm Flak38 anti-
farms and more. Plus aircraft vehicle. The kit
Models kit is a delightful production in sports fine detail throughout,
resin and PE brass; very fine detail and full of charisma with a drivers station and firewall inside



This is the Sturmhaubitze
(assault howitzer) variant Dragon have utilised
of the ubiquitous Stug.III photographic/digital instructions
assault gun mounting a in this release, so hopefully
10.5cm weapon. Dragons theyll be easier to follow than
Stugs are recognised usual. The kit depicts the
as excellent kits that bizarre-looking Pz.IV-turreted
feature a highly detailed Panther and the kit is a
suspension system with detailed and thorough
torsion bars and fighting production. Dragon provide PE
compartment floor, bulkhead and a good engine screens and tracks in DS; just the
replica of the 10.5cm gun one markings-option is suggested


ITEM NO.37024 In this release we have
Tamiya have used Italeris a first in scale armour
excellent mouldings for the modelling (we believe);
Sd.Kfz.231 in this release, an M1 Abrams with
which represents this interesting- a full interior and
looking early war armoured engine, all in the box.
car. New to the kit is Tamiyas Its an M1A1/A2 to
fantastic commander be specific and comes
figure which is one of the with a complete fighting
companys best ever injection- compartment in the turret
moulded figurines. A metal gun barrel is basket and engine in its bay. More
also provided details on this kit soon

AFV Edition 9

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Chris Meddings brings us a photo-report from this years Moson Model
Show, held by the Mosonmagyarvr Modelling Club in Hungary

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AFV Edition 11

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AFV Edition 13

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New and recently issued kits and accessory sets for armour modelling projects


Dragons 1:35 Tiger I ausf.E Early Production
is the lucky recipient of an impressive new set
of photo-etched brass details from this new
Chinese company. The set comprises no less
FINE MOLDS, JAPAN than twelve sheets of PE of varying sizes, all
very packed with parts for the whole vehicles
We alluded to the quality of the figures that exterior, including track guards, exhaust shrouds,
come with Fine Molds new Type 60 kit in New engine screens, tool brackets and clamps, smoke
Releases Kits this month, and here we have a set discharger brackets and much more. Also on
of four of the same finesse. They represent a tank offer is a more basic set for Dragons Initial
crew from 1965 to 1990, so are ideal for the Production Tiger I. MN
Tamiya and FM Type 61 MBT and others of the 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.E Tiger I Early Production
era. The moulded detail is fantastic and the set full detail set (AF35A01) for Dragon
comes with rifles, decal insignia and a choice of 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.E Tiger I Initial Production
two heads for three of the four crewmen. MN basic detail set (AF35A02) for Dragon
1:35 Japan Ground Self-Defence Force Tank
Crew 1965-1990s (FM47)


This is a new manufacturer to us and they have hit the ground running with some very nicely made
accessories for Takoms recently issued 1:35 ZSU-52-7. The twin 57mm S-68 gun barrels are finely lathed
from brass and most importantly, feature drilled-through pepper-pot muzzle brakes. The barrels come
with individually machine caps for the brakes plus photo-etched details.
Also new from Magic Models for the ZSU-57-2 is a set of sixteen 57mm BR-281U AP rounds in machined
brass, sixteen 57mm OR-281U High Explosive Tracer rounds and a set of eight empty shell casings for the
same kit. Magic Models have also created a set of four barrels for Mengs ZSU-25-4 Shilka AA system,
each beautifully made from brass in three sections. MN
1:35 X16 57mm OR-281U High Explosive traced ammunition, SPAAG ZSU-57-2 S-60 (MM35300)
1:35 X16 57mm BR-281U armour-piercing (AP) traced ammunition, SPAAG ZSU-57-2 S-60 (MM35301)
1:35 X8 57mm empty shell casings, SPAAG ZSU-57-2 S-60 (MM35302)
1:35 X4 25mm barrels 2A7 SPAAG ZSU-23-4 Shilka (MM3515)

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For diorama builders, Mathos new 1:35 Village Fountain will provide a neat
central point for a vehicular or figure-based vignette. Its cast in resin with great
detail but will need to be fitted up against a building or wall as its reverse face
is plain. Handy for vehicles is a set of five wooden crates in solid grey resin
and Plants and Weeds A provides several fronds of ivy in PE, to be painted
and posed on a wall. Excellent quality all round. MN
1:35 Village Fountain A (35027)
1:35 Wooden Crates (35025)
1:35 Plants and Weeds A (35035)
1:35 Plants and Weeds B (35036)
1:35 Plants and Weeds E (35039)
1:35 Hinges B (35035)
1:35 Manhole covers (35031)

If you have Dragons 1:35 Conquerer
tank kit, Abers new barrel will be a
must-have; its machined from solid
aluminium with brass and PE fittings
and features rifling in the muzzle.
Other notable new items from Aber are
a set of engine screens for Rye Field
Models 1:35 Tiger I with extremely
realistic mesh, a barrel and MG set for HAULER, CZECH REPUBLIC
the Hobbyboss T-35 (might fit Zvezdas
too) and some impressive 1:16 wingnuts. MN If you have Tamiyas lovely little American Staff Car and British Light Utility
1:35 British 120mm L1A2 barrel for Conquerer (35L-191) for Dragon (Tilly) kits, Hauler now offer masking sets for the windows and wheels, cut
1:35 Sd.Kfz.181 Tiger I screens (G31) for Rye Field Model from grey vinyl. Very handy indeed for these small-scale models. Also new
1:35 Set of barrels for T-35 1938/1939 (35L-176) for Hobbyboss is a beautiful miniature of a Singer sewing machine in resin and PE, perfect
1:35 Somua S35 main and MG barrels (35L-193) for dioramas with house interiors. MN
1:35 Set of barrels for BMPT Terminator (35L-153) for Zvezda 1:35 Singer sewing machine (HLU35085)
1:16 Wingnuts PE nut with machine bolt x30 (16111) 1:35 American Staff Car painting masks (HLX48372) for Tamiya
1:16 Pz.Kpfw.IV ausf. H/J ammo stowage rack with Type B rounds (16075B) 1:35 British Light Utility car painting masks (HLX48373) for Tamiya

Magic Models; Aber; Roch Model;

WHERE TO BUY? Matho Models; Fine Molds; Hauler;

AFV Edition 15

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bout six years ago I was at a model contest

and swap meet in San Diego, California
and a good friend of mine, Mark Glidden,
had a resin kit on his table for sale. It was
of the Csaba 39M, a World War II era Hungarian
armoured car. Now, if you know me at all, to say
I have a thing for wheeled armoured vehicles is an

understatement. There is something about taking a
vehicle with rubber tyres into combat has always
seemed a bit odd to me. The tyres themselves
are fragile, not suitable for all terrain, but theres
something familiar and safe about it. As opposed to
tracked vehicles, we all understand wheels. Weve
all ridden in them, weve driven them and I must
admit I have thought, wouldnt it be cool to drive
one with a giant gun on top! Maybe Im weird but
Stan Spooner builds and paints I actually think about those things. Thats part of the

a little Hungarian hardware

fun of building them for me and with that in mind,
the Csaba was a very intriguing subject. It was
my understanding that no-one other than Miniman
Factory offered a 1:35 model of this vehicle at that
time. So, it had to go home with me.

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As with most resin kits, this one came with plenty
of cast parts but also photo-etched components.
The base elements of the kit were simple; resin
upper and lower hull and turret, photo-etched brass
fenders and so on. But like any kit, there are things
that can be improved upon. To start with, the entire
upper hull was designed and constructed of slab
and rivet construction but the lower hull on the kit
had no rivets. I thought it was important to add
these to this area.
For that, I went to the trusty Archer Transfer
rivet sheet and found it was extremely easily to lay
strips of rivets down to make really quick work of
this problem; the rest of the issues were just about
taking care of details. I added a resin satchel and
added thread ties from the spares box, plus a new
shovel and pick axe with scratchbuilt attachment
The wings are made from brass which lends a sense of scale The main gun barrel was made from a modified ships barrel clamps. I also scratchbuilt the bridging ramps
thickness to this area of the model
that are stowed on the right side of the vehicle.
These were cut and shaped from wood tongue-
depressors with Evergreen strip added across the
upper surface. When I attached them to the model,
I wanted to be able to see the detail so that's why
I stuck them in the mounting brackets a little askew
so you could appreciate the ramps.
The extremely prominent radio rail that runs
along the outside of the upper hull had to be
replaced with Evergreen rod. The next thing I
wanted to address was the gun barrel. The kit
piece was in bad shape when I purchased the
kit so I went to my local hobby shop, Brookhurst
Hobbies and dug into their brass barrel selection.
There I came up with something. I believe it came
The bundle of wood tied to the vehicles bow plate adds a Plentiful stowage was added to the models rear deck, using lead foil and from a ship model collection. I modified the end
lived-in look to the model cast-resin items from the authors spares box and the taper to get as close as I could with the
reference shots I had. With that completed, I moved
on to adding some elements to help tell a story.

AFV Edition 17

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As with most resin

kits, this one came with
plenty of cast parts
but also photo-etched

Sometime earlier I had picked up a copy of
Mushroom Models book No. 4101, 'Magyar
Steel'. If you are at all interested in World War
II Hungarian armour, this is a must-have. Great
stories and wonderful colour profiles that walk you
through the battle history of Hungarian armour in
World War II. There was a great story in this book
about an early war encounter with a Csaba patrol
coming across a bicycle unit from the Kingdom of
Yugoslavia. This painted a great picture in my mind
and I was all set to move forward with that story.
And there is where the model sat for years.
Quite honestly, although the kit was good, it
wasnt great. The more I went back and looked at
it, the more I felt I needed to do to fix and upgrade
the presentation. It was only after learning that
Hobbyboss was coming out with a new plastic kit
of this vehicle, I figured that one way or another,
I had better get this model finished! So the story
became an amended one. There is a fairly well
published photograph of an M39 in what appears
to be overall sand-coloured paint. Its a late war
photo, circa 1944. It was operating in Poland and
had the late war Hungarian markings on it. For the
sake of expediency and the fact that I probably
would use the Hobbyboss kit for the more involved
build, this was the vehicle I went with for the build.

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I pulled the model out of mothballs and assessed its
current condition. With a little bit of touch up here
and there I was ready to go. I added a little bit of
texture to the bottom with Tamiya Ground Effects
and then primed and pre-shaded the entire model.
Next I lay down an overall tone of sand colour
using Tamiya Buff, then I mixed in small amounts of
flat white, yellow and a few other tones to break
up the overall presentation. I found this adds visual
interest and adds a more realistic overall look to
the model. The lower hull and wheel wells were
over-painted with tones of dark browns and dark
greys. These same tones were painted up on the
Here we can see the lines of decal rivets applied by the author to the lower hull. Over this, layers of primer have been applied, followed by sides a bit to visually 'ground' the Csaba.
some dark pre-shading to begin the painting process.
It was at this point that I painted the tires my
standard shade of Gunze Hobby Color 77, Tyre
Black with a drop of Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown to
warm it up a bit. I have found that rubber tyres
in Europe at that time had a slight brown tinge to
them. Once the primary painting was complete I
touched up a few details by brush using Vallejo
acrylics such as the pack on the front fender and
both of the guns. Next it was on to the decals. I
was going to use the Bison Decals sheet 35113,
Hungary in WWII. This decal sheet has everything
you need to accurately represent the late war 2nd
Recce Battalion vehicle.
As I usually do, I sprayed the areas where I
would be placing the decals with Future floor wax.
Once it was dry, I simply applied decals and
hit them with a thin coat of Micro Sol. Once the
decals had completely settled in and moulded to
the contours, I once again sprayed them with a
coat of Future. This helped cut down on an invisible
edge that the decal might otherwise have. A quick
over-spray of Dull Coat and I was ready to move
on to the weathering.
Close-up view of the upper hull showing good levels of detail The first base-coat of colour has been airbrushed on

Subsequent layers of ever-

lightening sand tones were
sprayed on to create varied

AFV Edition 19

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For me, the weathering of the model is always the
most fun part because it goes to storytelling. Is the
vehicle going to be clean like it just rolled off the
factory line or is it war-torn and weary, soaked in
dirt and grime from the area it was deployed? For
me, I wanted this model to be a little more beat
up than most. Why, Im not sure, I just wanted it
to have that 'banged up and dirty' look. The usual
process of oil paint colour-washes, Mig pigments
and localised colour-washes were applied all over
the vehicle with different intensities of colour added
to the upper part of the vehicle versus the lower
areas that would be dirtiest.
Once I started establishing a balance between
the two areas, I moved on to the chipping. This as
usual was done with small piece of sponge and
Vallejo Dark German Gray acrylic. In a few areas,
the chipping got a little heavy for my taste so I
simply overspread it with a little bit of the leftover
sand yellow paint used for the original base colour.
Once everything was dry and I was satisfied with
the way it looked, I simply sprayed it with another
coat of Testors Dull Coat. Exterior details such as tyres, aerial frame and gun barrel have been painted here

Trying out the stowage; always play with various positions, types and sizes of these items before gluing them on Close-up view of the turret revealing subtle weathering

Chipping, fading and staining all go to make a realistic and visually appealing finish Some stowage items in place on the rear deck

20 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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The reference photo in the
background heavily influenced the
authors choice of paint scheme

For me, the

weathering of the
model is always the
most fun part...


The last few things to be added were some of
the extra details such as the Hungarian armoured
vehicle crew figure from Bodi and a little bit of
stowage that I wanted to set next to him on the
base. Both the large tarp on the back engine deck
and the crate sitting next to the figure are from
Value Gear. The sack of potatoes is from an old
Verlinden Productions set. The pail is from Tamiya
with a copper wire handle added. The blue rag
is a piece of lead foil simply painted and draped
over the antenna rail for a pop of colour.

In the end, this was a relatively simple build but I
was pleased with the outcome. I still hope to do the
more elaborate build using the Hobbyboss kit but
for now Im enjoying having this Hungarian 39M
Csaba armoured car in my collection of wheeled
military vehicles.

The finished model with all its

weathering and stowage in place

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Miniman Factory have done a

good job in capturing the profile
of this armoured car; it will
be interesting to see how it
compares to Hobbybosss kit of
the same subject

22 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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A smart display base and a
Hungarian driver figure present
the model in a very slick manner

AFV Edition 23

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Konrad Dzik builds, paints and weathers
Balaton-Modell's 1:35 DT-74 Soviet tractor

he DT-74 used to be very common dozer in
the former Soviet Union and many of them
could be seen on every construction site, in
every village or city. All thanks to easy and Here we can see the level of detail
cheap construction. So far, the only model of this provided in Balaton Modells kit; its a
dozer is a resin kit from Balaton Modell. It was my resin and photo-etched brass production
first resin kit so I was a little afraid of it at first. But
my fears werent justified as it proved in to be great
model that was easy to build and didn't consist of
too many parts; for example engine was almost just
one piece. Thanks to this, I could glue it together
fast without any problems and move on to my
favourite part, painting and weathering.

I decided to expose the engine, so I had to paint
it first. Firstly I painted the whole thing with black
primer and over that I applied Polished Aluminium
from AK Interactive (AK481) and I then painted the
rest of the details with Lifecolor acrylics. Its wise
to seal the surface with some satin varnish before
the next steps. Over that prepared base I applied
a brown colour-wash (A.MIG-1000). The last step
was apply some engine grime (AK082) which was
blended using X-20 enamel thinner from Tamiya.

24 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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Balatons resin castings
are of a very high quality

A spread of the DT-74s main components, minus tracks

At the end I created few oil streaks with engine wash using via airbrush at pretty high pressure cotton wool swab which creates an interesting
grease (Abt160.). Its important to apply it in to force it into all areas of the model. When all effect. When the colour-wash was dry I applied
many, heavy diluted layers with the same thinner surfaces were dry I could then create the scratches some rust streaks (AK013) over the biggest chips,
as above. by moistening the surface with small amount of after couple minutes, blended it with brush to form
water (or, if the paint won't come off, Micro Sol, the effect of rust-runs. I painted a short vertical
PAINTING but with this you must be more careful because it line of the rust colour and then blended it in,
I started the painting of the vehicle itself by can easily damage all layers of the paint) and then also vertically, with brush lightly moistened with
applying Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red, diluted with removing it delicately with a brush. Tamiya X20 thinner; white spirit can also be used.
Mr.Levelling Thinner as a base for the subsequent Its best not to over-do the effect or it will be too
paint scratches. Over this I applied Worn Effects WEATHERING exaggerated, but if applied too lightly, it might not
(AK088) which is a soluble mask and an alternative I started this part of the project with a colour-wash, be visible. The exhaust was painted with a paint set
to hairspray. When this was dry I sprayed XF-23 using AK Interactive Brown Blue for Panzer Grey for rust by Lifecolor, applied by sponge.
Light Blue diluted with plain water so it would be Vehicles (AK070). Its good to use several shades It was time for the dust and to create it I applied
easier to scratch through it later. Next I lightened of colour-wash that are in sympathy with the vehicle XF-57 Buff and XF-55 Deck Tan (enamels) from
the paint colour a little by adding some XF-2 Flat colour to create a realistic result. In the engine Tamiya, diluted with X-20. Its a good idea to
White to the mixture. area, I airbrushed on some diluted engine grime, increase the amount of paint towards the bottom of
Over that, I applied a heavily diluted colour- then blended it in with a brush and rolled it with the area being treated. To form a few rain marks,

Over a layer of black primer, the models engine was first base- The oil filter, exhaust manifold and other structures have been The wiring can be seen here, leading to the spark plugs
coated with metallic silver picked out by hand

By painting certain
structures in gloss black,
monotony of tone is

Layered colour-washes
have formed greasy runs
of engine oil The various colours used on the engine combine to create an
engagingly realistic finish
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A base layer of red oxide primer

I 'wiped' the model vertically with brush moistened
has been airbrush on, in readiness
with thinner. When the dust was on, I moved to the for the top colour of light blue
mud. Firstly I applied Dark Earth pigments (AK081)
and European Earth (A.MIG-3004) and blended
them with X-20.
When this had dried, I applied yet more streaks;
softer ones were made from mix of Brown Wash
(A.MIG-1000), Wet Effects Fluid (AK079) and
X-20. The rest were done with heavily diluted
Abt160 oil paint.
Finally, I speckled some mud in two colours;
brighter (mix of European Earth pigment and XF-57)
and darker (Damp Earth AK078 plus some
Dark Earth pigment). Its best to dilute these mixes
before speckling. For the speckling itself, I used an
old brush and a toothpick, flicking the mixtures off
the brush and onto the model in the appropriate
areas. Its also important not to place too much mix
on the brush, so you can control it properly.
I applied some earth to the blade and on
horizontal plates and for that I used mix of the
same pigment mix that I flicked from brush, secured
with pigment fixer (AK048). The tracks were firstly
painted with XF-9 Hull Red and I then speckled
on some Wash (AK300), Rust Streaks (AK013)
and diluted Faded Dark Yellow (Abt020.) Before The primer is a standard shade used
by many automotive manufacturers.
mounting the tracks to the vehicle, I applied some Before the blue was applied, the
dust using XF-57 Buff enamel and highlighted the model was treated with a layer of
edges of tracks with some drybrushed metalizer Worn Effects soluble mask
paint. I applied some mud on the tracks in similar
way as earth on blade, after fitting them to the
dozer. Windows were attached with bondic UV Using a mixture of acrylic
paints, a light blue shade
resin and dusted with same paint as all vehicle. The
was formulated and sprayed
headlights needed some more work; their interiors on in thin layers
had to be drilled out and then filled with clear
resin. And that's about it! Balaton-Modell's DT-74
dozer is an excellent kit and a real joy to paint and
weather up.

Variations of the blue colour were

made, lightening it with white to
form a less uniform finish

Its worth using reference images

to create realistic-looking paint
flaking and chipping

Once the blue paint had

dried, brushes moistened
with tap water were used
to gently wear through
the paint

The chipped paint effect is clear to

see here; it looks highly effective

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The dark colour-wash was applied across all surfaces

With the chipping done, AKs brown-blue wash was used to deepen
the appearance of the surface detail

We can observe how the subtle

colour-wash has increased the
contrast in the painted finish

Time to add dirt to the lower surfaces and running gear, an essential step towards realism

The contrast between the

dusty, muddy lower areas and
the pale blue bodywork brings
the model to life

The tracks were base-coated

in Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red
Tamiyas XF-57 Buff in enamel
form was used to form a dusty
layer on the track runs

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An excellent kit and a real joy

to paint and weather up...

AK Interactive;

28 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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p 29 Vallejo 068.indd 8 31/10/2016 11:47

Robert Dpp describes how he extensively reworked Revell's 1:9

Zndapp KS 750: A veritable orgy of superdetailing in large scale!

30 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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t is a common occurrence during my modelling
projects that I come across a particular picture I have
been searching for ages showing certain details, just
when it is too late to change its scale representation.
So whenever I have finished a model, part of me stays
frustrated by the mistakes I have made and tends to
restart with a second version. And so it was when I
had finished a 1:24 Tasca Zndapp KS 750.
While I couldn't motivate myself to build the same
kit again, I chose to make the by far larger 1:9
model from Revell which, predictably, provided the
opportunity to push the level of detail to the limit. As
the kit is no longer in production sadly only few of you
will be able to adapt what I have done in total. But I
hope that you may benefit from my description at least
with every Zndapp model and every motorcycle kit in
every scale you may choose as a subject.

Along with the BMW R75 the Zndapp KS 750 was
the very first German motorcycle originally designed
for military use. In particular both motorcycles had a
differential which drove the sidecar wheel providing
a stunning cross country performance. This feature
was what made their characteristics. Thus both types
where never in use as solo-machines! Designed in
1939/40 the KS 750 reached the German troops in
small numbers in 1941 and in relevant numbers from
on 1942. Until the end of war a total of 18,279 units
were produced. Its original purpose was to be used
for reconnaissance missions in the 'Kradschtzen' units
(motorcycle battalions). But as these units were lacking
both armour and heavy weaponry, their missions
caused unbearable losses and so the Zndapps' duties
changed to multi-purpose use in several units, including
the tank units which have always been in the centre of
my modelling interests.
Unfortunately the units usually did not list in
the 'Kriegsstrkenachweis' (table of organization)
which type of motorcycle they had in use for
which particular role. So one cannot be sure if the
mentioned vehicles had a sidecar and so maybe
were of KS 750 type. But when I learned from Lukas
Friedli's book that the tank units with Pz.IV and
Panthers in 1944 in their 'Bergezge' (recovery units)
had at least one motorcycle which was nominally
manned with two soldiers, I decided that this was
most likely a proper example for my project.
The emblem of the 26. Panzer-Division was the
most appealing to me. Established in 1943, the
division's 'Panzer-Regiment' never entered action as
a whole but its 'Panther-Abteilung' (battalion) was
immediately sent to the Eastern front, where it fought
from July to October 1944 under the command of the
'Grodeutschland-Division' to keep the Red Army from
reaching the Eastern Sea and so isolate the German
'Heeresgruppe Nord' (Army Group North).
This historical background (see Ockert/Urbanke,
pp.60ff) at the same time adapted to my decision to
depict a Zndapp produced in October 1943 (Serial-
No.613 114) which was already very close to the final
production type (Hommes 2009, pp.18-19).

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As the Zndapp (like other vehicles) showed 1
grease nipples on just all moving parts I started
with casting my own versions from clear resin.
Originally these were always marked by a thick
dark-red 'Cellon' washer which I cast along (1).
All wheels were identical and showed the same
concave shaped drum brake. Unfortunately in the
kit the latter is represented in a plain version. As
the right side spokes are fixed to the brake drum
the dimensions of the parts completely changed
when I cut the brake drums and carefully hollowed
them while turning them in a drill. At the same time
the kits brake drums were (necessarily) way too
thin. Thus thickening them with U-shaped plastic
material to a correct width approximately recreated
the kits parts' outer size at least. 2 3
It proved impossible to exactly preserve the ratio
between drum brake and wheel hub - and the two
lines of spokes along. Thus I firstly only fixed the
split parts by gluing a plastic shim to the hub from
behind so that it could still be traversed (3). The
kit tyres were massively cast and showed a thick
inner rib fixing them firmly to the rim while gluing
the latter along with the hub and brake drum. But
as I wanted to glue the rim separately I had to cut
the inner parts of the tyres with the help of a hobby
knife so they could be pushed onto the finished
wheel after assembly (4).. In order to enhance their The spokes were cut and their fixing points on the rims, hubs and drum brakes were drilled following approximately the kit parts angles
fit I had to slightly thicken the rims' outer ribs (5).
The only ratio which was preserved throughout all
changes and I was at the same time sure about 4
by reference drawings was the one between the
outer side of the hub and the outer rim. So I made The upper tyre is already
cut while the other is still
a simple jig from plastic card to provisionally in its original condition
fix this side's ratio but started to add the spoke
replacements made of brass wire and drilled plastic
rod from the drum brake side instead (6, 7, 8).
As late as the inner side was completed the hub
could be traversed into position and fixed with the
outer sides spokes.

5 6
The over-lengthened spokes were
glued from the hidden outer sides
and cut with a side cutter afterwards

7 8 9

The wheel hub can still be traversed into the exact position

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I used brass screws

and thread cutters for
fixations whenever
possible. This proved very
helpful while construction,
because parts could be
disassembled again if

The headlight glass detail was carved into plastic card

which was used as a master for casting it in clear resin


The speedometer details came from a

downscaled photo-print. The light bulbs
were turned from clear sprue in a drill

13 14 15

The multi-slotted 'Notek' cover was planned as a standard part with adaptive rings for different headlight sizes. But due to low production numbers it is rarely seen on other vehicles. The cover could be removed when no
enemy air threat had to be faced while the adaptive ring stayed in place


Notice how cables and wiring reached through the

hollowed steering head of the Zndapp complicating
to find out about their exact position. A special type
of grease nipples allowed to lubricate the cables

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17 18 19

The differential fitted very tightly to the lower frame. The outer The inner left side of the frame had to be finished as well before
dimensions were fixed with plastic material and the body was gluing the steering head The tight fit between frame and differential protected the break line
thickened and smoothened with Magic Sculp (represented by copper wire). The distributor piece (in the right centre)
made sure that the foot break affected both, rear and sidecar wheel

20 21

The rear fender was cut and narrowed as well. Originally it

consisted of three parts. The rear part could be folded upward
to dismount the rear wheel. The small front part was straight

The KS 750 frame was basically made of two triangular
halves which were welded at the steering head and 22
strengthened with two junction plates. To these plates,
the engine, gas tank, rear fender and driver's seat were
fixed. The kit's representations of these plates had to be
replaced, because they were extremely rough and of
obviously inadequate size. But the very only way to exactly
reposition the replacements was to fix the rear wheel at
first. Thus I started assembly with putting the motorcycle
frame onto its wheels.
The front fork was one of the better kit parts and so
extensive super-detailing was the only change I made. Just
the front fender had to be cut and significantly narrowed
(9). Late war Zndapps showed a typical multi-slotted
'Notek' lamp cover, but I was not sure if I would succeed
in rebuilding this complex item in scale. So I spent more
time than necessary on later on mostly hidden headlight
details - the headlight glass in particular (10, 11). In
order to position the rear wheel, the differential had
to be completed along. Unfortunately the kit part was
significantly too small so that a lot of extra work was The front end of the upper
necessary (17, 18, 19). Once I was sure about the rear junction plate fitted tightly
wheels position (20). I adapted the rear fender to it so to the gas tank
that I could align the junction plates to the fender starting
with the upper one (22, 23). 23
The rear fender was bolted to these plates with two screws
each and therefore its front end could be firmly fixed
once they were in place. This provided the opportunity to
rebuild the combined rack for the rear storage box and
pillion rider's seat along with the rear mounting bracket
(24, 25). This procedure firmly fixed the fenders rear as
well. To make some tiny additional details and adapt them
to the already finished frame (26, 27, 28, 29) gave me
a relaxing time before I took the challenge to rebuild the
most complicated part, the engine.

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24 25

The rear mounting bracket could (as the one on the front wheel) be folded downward and used as a stand when removing the wheel

26 27 28

The back- and break-light glasses were again made from plastic The Noris-lettering on the fuse box and the plug and the part The Kraftstoff (fuel) lettering in cursive layout was done in the
parts (master parts on the left) and cast from clear resin number were carved in mirrored position into a plastic stamp and same way
afterwards. Notice the carved 'Hella' logo pressed into still workable Magic Sculp

29 31


The standard 'Noris' horn was fixed underneath the steering head,
significantly complicating the modeller's job in particular while painting!

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Obviously the design idea of the KS 750 was to
encapsulate all basic technical functions into a
consolidated central unit. A first test-fit of the kit
parts showed that these were obviously very small
likely to simplify construction and so fortunately
provided enough space for improvements (31). I
started with reworking the frontal case cover with
the frontal engine mount. At the same time the
transmission housing was cut from the crankcase
in order to get sub-units which could be treated
separately (30).
It proved rather tricky to adapt the underside of the
transmission to not only the lower junction plate but
also to the foot rests rod connection as tightly as
the original had (33, 34).
Starting in August 1942 the air cleaning system
of the KS 750 was changed to a three piece
cyclone type. It was adapted to the rear of the
upper engine cover which protected the ignition
system and the single carburettor. The inlet air
could be pre-heated by exhaust fumes channelled 33 34
off the main exhaust by a small diameter tube (36,
37). Placing all this into the small space between
engine, frame and rear fender gave me an idea of
how hard it must have been to design it originally.
But for sure the most challenging part was yet
to come: the cylinders. The kit parts were again
oversimplified. In particular the separated ducts for
the tappets were not represented and all screws
were missing. Thus I built the complete cylinders
from scratch (39, 40). Afterwards I did similar
with the cylinder heads, but the latter job was even
more complicated, because the heads cooling
fins showed differing directions and so had to be
adapted in several steps (41, 42, 43).
Fortunately Zndapp changed the valve cover
design during production from ribbed aluminium to
pressed steel - without any more fins to add (49).
By fixing the complete cylinders demountable from
the engine case with screws, I achieved the vital
opportunity to add the engine to the frame after
painting (51, 52). Once everything could be
mounted to the frame it was time to adapt the also The tiny cover underneath the transmission was the central hydraulic The brake fluid drain plug was reached through a hole in the lower
tightly fitting exhaust system (53, 54, 55). brake encoder which was filled with brake fluid from the transmissions junction plate. The outer screw was the transmission oil drain plug
upper side via an internal rod

The cover on the back of
the transmission housing
held the kick starter and
the adjustable clutch lever


The pre-heated fumes

could be regulated by
a small valve

36 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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38 39

The oil sump covers the underside of the crankcase. Later on it would hide the tubing inside At first I did the inner mould sections between the cooling fins. The preformed shims were
the scale part that I had employed to fix the engine (and the complete model as well) to provisionally screwed with small sections of plastic card as placeholders for the fins and
a handle. The magneto on top of the crankcase was not perfectly rebuilt because it would sanded to accurate shape
hardly be visible through the slotted engine cover

40 41 42

Afterwards the inner mould sections were separately glued The first section of the cylinder head housed the combustion chamber The explosive fumes were led from the hidden carburettor
to the prepared cooling fins along with air/fuel intakes and exhaust outlets. It was done similar to to the cylinder heads. The steel tubing was connected to the
the cylinders (notice the additional head screw) cast-in duct in the crankcase with a clamped conical rubber part

43 44 45

Extra cooling fins on the exhaust outlet reached into a gap at the The outer cylinder head housed the valve drive. In order to adapt In the centre there are the provisional placeholders of the fins
cylinder: This feature on the model could only be properly painted the inner structure to the preformed head-section I had already which could be turned around and used for both sides
before the head was in place glued a single cooling fin

46 47 48

In the end fins and inner structure shims were glued piece by piece (the Before the upper and lower fins were fitted the spark plug holes had In between the upper fins the tappet guides are still visible at the
result is seen on the left) to be added. The originally machined sealing surface was achieved with head. These were cut from rounded plastic card
drilled plastic rod of differing size

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49 50 51

The fit of the base plate for the valve covers was secured with plastic pins to The ignition plugs were turned along with representations The cylinder base was fixed to the crankcase with a single screw
prepare further shaping of the spark plugs in a usual drill employing the blades while the head was fixed to the base with two minor ones. Ignition
shown. Plastruct hexagonal plastic material proved very plugs and valve covers could be easily glued afterwards
handy as a base

52 53

The front exhaust collector showed only minimal clearance to the frame and
case cover. Steel distance pieces were introduced to channel off parts of
the exhaust to a complex heating system for the driver's hands and feet.
Later on everything was dropped again except for the sidecar heater but the
distance pieces stayed in production for both sides


All separated parts of the engine. Only the three main components of the engine The rear muffler was fitted into the frame triangle to protect it from damage.
case were glued prior to painting and fixing the engine case to the frame At the same time it provided extra protection from dust and dirt


The scale exhaust system

was also fixed exclusively
with screws in order to be
able to disassemble it later
on as well. Notice the minor
pipe leading to the air cleaner

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Notice how on the KS 750's 1700 V-Engine the ducts for the
pistons reached upward and the ones for the tappets slightly
downward leaving a gap before they united at the cylinder head

The small angled
tube in the centre
is the exhaust pipe
of the air cleaners
heating system

Notice the break-fluid filling plug on

top of the right transmission housing

59 60 61

Notice the adjustable wrench in the centre and the spare spark plug A lubrication plan was bolted into the inside of the lid which I - like
all placards - cut from downscaled photos. The service manual is
lurking underneath the tool bag

62 63
The fuel tank of the KS 750 had a small stowage
box on its top which I decided to rebuild in an
opened position and filled it with the hastily packed
items of the fabric made 'kleine Werkzeugtasche'
(minor tool bag) for frequent use (59, 60, 61).
One of the most typical items of the Zndapp KS
750 was the shifting gate cast from aluminium
with the two gear levers. With the outer lever the
driver could choose between the basic modes 'R'
('Rckwrts': reverse), 'G' ('Gelnde': off road)
and 'V' ('Vorwrts': forward) while the inner lever
The small switching plate in the lower centre blocked all but the first The tiny cast in factory logo on the shifting gate was made from
switched the four basic gears (62, 63).
gear in the off road and reverse mode Magic Sculp manipulated while still workable with the tip of a hobby
The three standard storage boxes very much knife and a fine needle
made the massive look of all heavy 'Wehrmacht'-
64 65
sidecar motorcycles. Initially these were produced
from leather but soon the factories switched to
sheet metal. On the late war KS 750 all three
were fixed with the same cast Y-shaped mounting
bracket outfitted with an extra securing mechanism
(66). The challenge here was to make the scale
mountings workable in order to be able to paint
the storage boxes separately. Yet another typical
feature were the seats for the driver and the
co-driver made from a special rubber like material
named 'Drilastic'. While the seats themselves were
The thin sheet metal boxes were bolted to a steel framework As there were no scale PE clasps available I made my own from thin
identical the mounting and springing system varied plastic material. It was stunningly easy to make them workable -
significantly (67, 68, 69, 70, 71). though totally improper for frequent use of course!

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66 67 68

I was honestly stunned that the copper spring I made provided realistic I employed varying tools to hollow the seats underside,
tension for both, the doubled hook which held the upper frame of the along with an awful lot of sanding!
boxes in place and the securing mechanism on top of it as well

69 70
The kit's sidecar frame was completely dropped
and built from scratch instead. Starting with a
rather simple construction made of Evergreen
tubing (73) the sidecar drive had to be constructed
at first to fix the exact position of the wheel (74).
Once the fender had been reworked and adapted
(75, 76, 77), all additional attachments could
be added including the back suspension for the
sidecar body placed on leave springs (78,79,
80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85). Aber helped me out with fantastic PE Drilastic logos Both seats were strained by the same basic spring bolted from underneath
which I used as a stamp to form Magic Sculp again.
Though it was very helpful to rely on the complex
curved kit parts for the sidecar body their layout
had to be completely changed, too. The central 71 72
cutting line of the kit supplied halves would have
made it impossible to pre-paint the inner surfaces
and hide the junction afterwards (86, 87, 88).
Instead the changed layout allowed to keep the
outer wall apart from the already dimensionally
stable rest so that all necessary inner detailing
and painting could be done before final gluing.
As extra detail I added some Panther tools to
symbolize the specific duties of this particular
motorcycle (93, 94, 95).. In the next AFV edition
of Military Illustrated Modeller (Issue 70), I will
describe the painting and weathering the Zndapp. The tension spring for the co-driver's seat could be fixed in three The small circular pad saved the drivers coccyx. With the final
different positions adapting to his weight. When not in use the seat production it was dropped - times were getting harder!
See you then!
had to be fixed with the small mount seen in the centre to keep it
from being damaged


The first necessary detail was the

adaptable front mounting mechanism
which was fixed to the engine mount

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74 75 76

The original sidecar wheel was spring suspended by an internal torsion bar. The kit fender was cut and narrowed again. The inner part was The diameter has been adapted by cutting the fender
Its range was limited by a rubber stop on a cast holder welded to the frame replaced. Notice the oversized diameter in the middle. The thick material allowed to hide the
resulting crease

77 78 79

A simple construction from plastic card was used to provisionally The curved long holes allowed to adjust the internal torsion bar The kinked fixing part allowed to compensate tolerances - with
fix the fender to the wheel with the necessary clearance - not necessary on the model of course. So the screws are fake the original and the model, too. This particular sidecar frame
in this case. The part on the upper right will hold the brake line was produced by Steib (others came from BMW or Royal)

80 81 82

The outer end of the brake line was made from a piece of electric cable which Both the scale mount for the side car support and for the leaf spring are only
The supports for the sidecar frame. I made the scale adapted the flexibility of the original fixed with screws and bolts which makes them adjustable. Even the threads
parts adjustable, too. This simplified to exactly adapt the cut onto plastic rod provided a remarkable solidity apparently superior to
sidecar- to the motorcycle-frame any glue

83 84 85

The central mount for the fender had to be made after the leave The hybrid sidecar running light. The body is marked as built from the Earlier production Zndapps had a red back running light at the sidecar
spring had already been added. It was made from plastic tube with Hella company while its glass was made by Noris. The latter was fender as well. But it was dropped in 1943 and the line out hole in the
a piece of copper wire pushed into it. It proved difficult to achieve again cast in clear resin from a plastic master-part front running light was rubber plugged
adequate angles though

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86 87 88

At first the inner part was cut and the edges were significantly The backsides of the inner parts were strengthened with plastic The inner part is finished. Adding extra material to the middle
thinned to hide the materials thickness (on the left is seen the card. A rod/tube fixation simplified the frequently necessary allowed to correct the loss of material while cutting and at the
still unchanged right half) test-fitting same time to reach adequate fit to the sidecar frame

89 91

The wooden
foot rest, the
heating system
and the storage
box mounts were
adapted at first.
Again these items The adjustable MG 34 mount was
were only screw most likely not originally part of
fixed and so could a motorcycle supplied to a tank
be removed 92
recovery unit but I could not stand the
temptation to rebuild this great detail

Plastic tube with

pushed in copper
wire helped to adapt
the convoluted shape
of the exhaust
to the foot rest.
Originally the small
adjustable muffler
allowed to vary the
heating effect

93 94

Though these items were all

part of the external 'Panther'
storage in this case they were
obviously kept by hand to
maybe compensate their loss

The seats upholstery

from Magic Sculp
was based on
a hollow plastic
construction in order
to lower its weight

95 96 97
The inner foot
room needed a
full painting/
treatment before
gluing the outer
wall because it
would be out of
reach afterwards.
The mirrored
'Steib' logo was
carved into the
plastic. It was
pressed into the
sheet metal with The storage room lid was adapted after the side
A tarpaulin was used to hastily fix the tools and prevent them from damaging the sidecar body's interior the original car body had been glued

42 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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98 99

I glued the front mounts for the side car body to the frame. The completed right side of the KS 750. The small red placard marks the brake fluid filler plug
To exactly do this was also not possible until the body had been glued

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The Red Armys first post-war SPAAG was to see wide scale deployment
throughout the globe, not always in its intended role, but as we shall see
this powerful AA gun fights to this very day. Zack Sex brings us this photo
report from his travels to Poland, Finland and Israel
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A rear three-quarter view of
a Polish ZSU57 on display
in Warsaw; its altered T54
chassis clearly visible

The open turret viewed from left to right on the Polish example

he great Patriotic war between 1941 and In theory these powerful S68 twin guns working
'45 saw the Red Army suffer at the hands of together are capable of firing between 210 and
Luftwaffe ground-attack aircraft such as the 240 fragmentation and armour-piercing tracer (AP-
Junkers Ju87 Stukas and Henschel He129s. T) shells per minute, to a maximum aerial horizontal
Later, as the tide of war changed, the Soviets would range of twelve kilometres and a ground target
inflict similar blows on the Wehrmacht with their range of four kilometres.
Petlyakov Pe-2s and Tupolev Tu-2s. The post-war For its time, the ZSU-57 was the most powerful
era not only saw a heavily armed USAF but also a SPAAG in service anywhere. Its major weakness
steadily growing NATO contingent, many of whose was a lack of tracking or fire-control radar, a
pilots where extremely experienced ground attack development for which customers across the
practitioners and had traded in their piston-driven Middle-East and Asia would have to wait for the
mounts for powerful jet-powered mud movers. ZSU-23 (Shilka) to come on the scene, but thats
These advances threatened to do away with another story. The lack of radar certainly did not
the Soviets numerical advantage, where quantity hamper sales and ZSU-57s found their way into
rather than quality was the focus. The Red Armys the armouries of Iran, Iraq, Syria, Egypt, Vietnam
response demanded more than a turret mounted and Yugoslavia, all of whom they would see action
DSHK12.7mm AA gun. What was required was with. The Serbs and Croats would use their ZSUs in

a set of heavy AA guns mounted on a suitable the ground fighting role throughout the Balkans civil
armoured platform which could keep pace with the war. The ZSU-57 was to see major use throughout

guards divisions as they punched through NATO the Warsaw pact and Finland for many decades.
lines and broke into the open European plains. To
this end the Design Bureau of Research Institute CHINESE VERSION
No.58 under the supervision of VG Grabin began Not to be left out, Communist China produced
working on a series of prototypes in the early 1950s an unlicensed copy using an unaltered T59 (T54)
unlike earlier T34 and Su76-based earlier attempts. lower hull but without export success. It is perhaps
an interesting testimony to the longevity of the
ONE WHEEL REMOVED 'Sparka' or 'Pair' as it was called in Soviet service
This new vehicle entered service in 1955 and that today as you sit reading this article, the ZSU-57
effectively used a lightened T54 chassis with is still in service with Syrian Army fighting in their
thinner armour and one less road wheel. In place civil war and with Kurdish units in their battle with
of the curved tank turret would be positioned an ISIS in Iraq. At over sixty years of age, the Sparka
open-topped cupola in which twin S60 57mm AA still soldiers on, its rugged simplicity and sheer
guns now called S68s would be mounted. firepower insuring it as a Middle-East enforcer.

AFV Edition 45

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A front three quarter view of an ex-Egyptian ZSU-57 captured during the Six day war, presently presiding in the IDF tank museum of Latrun.

Detail shot of the front gun mounts and assemblies positioned Rear view of the Latrun ZSU showing the large rear stowage basket
over the altered drivers hatch found on the ZSU used for catching the large empty 57mm ammunition casings

A. A rear view of the Finnish ZSU57 at Parola, camo netting instead of empty shells in the stowage basket, of note is the raised engine deck different from that on the T54 hull
B. A rear view of the Gunners positions the turret appears large and roomy but this is without the walls of 57mm ammo which is positioned in the holders throughout the turret.
C. A side view of aiming unit as mounted above the main gun units, the work load of the crew can well be imagined
D. A top shot of the left hand side ammunition feed unit and turret gun mount
E. A rear shot of the Parola ZSU turret showing empty ammo holders and the section through which the empty ammo cases are expelled to the rear basket
F. Front view of the left hand side loaders position the intricate sighting mechanisms much on display
G. Top shot of the twin 57mm or S68 mounts. The recoil on these weapons is substantial when in use
H. A clear view of the empty 57mm ammunition bay on the righthand side loaders position, the degree of protection for the gun crew from the elements never mind shrapnel is minimal

46 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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AFV Edition 47

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I. Front left hand side of the ZSU-57 showing its distinctive T54/55 road wheels and side ZIP or locker boxes
J. Front left hand side tow hook assembly with spring loaded catch
K. Left hand side driving light and light guard unit, one of a pair mounted above the mud guard assembly. This differs from the T54 where two lights are mounted on the right of the driver
L. Good view of standard T54/55 OMSH with pressed mudguard and support ribs. This can be easily replicated with a cocktail sausage stick, foil and some thin lengths of etch
M. Right hand side running board, it is on this side that the diesel fuel tanks are mounted
N. Detail shot of the front diesel fuel tank and pump box on the front right hand side of the vehicle
O. Top view of the large empty casing/stowage mesh box hinged towards the rear engine deck
P. The ZSU-57 exhaust outlet is the same as that found on the T54/55, the pressed mental sheet above acts as a heat guard. Again this is best replaced on most model kits with a foil rubbing

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A Modern study of Fgst.NR. 250031
The Research Squad are pleased to announce the
release of Tiger: Modern Study of Fgst. NR. 250031,
a complete photo study of the Aberdeen 712 Tiger
tank. The Research Squad were given given special
permission by the collection and Aberdeen Proving
Ground Museum to fully document this important
vehicle in order to create a photographic record
for any future restoration work. This includes a full
exterior walk-around, a complete documentation of
the interior and also a detailed study of the engine
compartment and engine.
To this end the knowledge and expertise of many
contributors were brought together, not least of which
were our two technical editors, Liejon Schoot and Rob
Veenendaal, without whose massive contribution this book
would not have been completed.
208 pages
+/- 690 images.
69 technical diagrams (including 27 selected re-mastered
diagrams at A4 size)

This includes:

Only a full exterior walk-around,

a complete documentation of the interior

29 .99
a detailed study of the engine compartment.
a history of the vehicle from capture to present date
a veteran interview with the driver of Maj. Leuder
s p&p plu a history of the vehicle from capture to present date
a technical article by Liejon Schoot and Rob Veenendaal
on the Vorpanzer design


PLACE YOUR ORDER NOW ON TEL: 01525 222573 FAX: 01525 222574

Tiger: A Modern study of Fgst.NR. 250031 P&P: UK; 2.00
Europe; 4.00
World-Wide airmail; 6.00
RESEARCH SQUAD TIGER Please debit my credit/debit card for ....................................... Cheques payable to: Doolittle Media Ltd.

Visa Mastercard Maestro other .............................

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Please mail this form to;
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Telephone Number....................................................................................... Tel; +44(0)1525 222573 Fax; +44(0)1525 222574 Online;
(Photocopies of this form are acceptable)

p 49 ResearchTiger 068.indd 8 31/10/2016 11:48


Yuri Garilov makes some key improvements to the
Hobbyboss 1:35 T-24, the first Soviet medium tank

he decision to design a new type of development, which proved to have a dramatic military tests and go straight into series production.
armoured vehicle intended initially to be impact on the project in general. The first and The first batch of fifteen tanks should have been
a manoeuvrable tank was taken by the only prototype of the T-12 was ready by the end completed by the start of October but, as the direct
Soviet military authorities in 1928. By the of 1929 and in many respects it was markedly result of a philosophy of continual adaptation,
end of the year, the general features had been different from the original plans with a longer none was finished in 1930. The first six serial
specified, the blueprints drawn up and accepted. hull, new running gear, new engine, etc. When tanks were completed (without armaments) in
Even at this early stage, ideas were subject to trials of the prototype began in December 1929, November, 1931. At this point, the Supreme
alteration; the tank was reclassified as medium. military officials insisted that further modifications Command of the Red Army fell in love with the
The layout of the vehicle, that has received be made, which led to the birth of the T-24. In Christie tank. Consequently, even before the first
the T-12 designation, was 'borrowed' from the parallel with design work on the revision known as vehicles rolled off the assembly line, the decision
American M1921 and M1922, with three-tier T-24, trials of the T-12 continued until September had been made to utilise pre-manufactured T-24
armaments and two independently rotating turrets. 1930, when the prototype was disassembled. parts and then to terminate production. By the end
Kharkov Locomotive Factory (KhPZ) was selected Across the entire period, the prototype of 1931, twenty-four vehicles had been completed.
as manufacturer of the prototype and subsequently underwent constant modification, a somewhat Thereafter, production capacity turned its focus on
handled the transition to series production. chaotic pattern of development that continued a copy of the Christie tank that came to be known
Neither the design engineering bureau nor the for some years. The decision was made to skip as the BT-2.
manufacturer had any practical experience in tank a pilot version of T-24 along with factory and

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1 2 3

4 5

THE KIT support brackets looked dubious. Quite a few rivets based on my analysis of the period photos.
I always wanted to make a model of T-24, a were missing across the lower hull too. Next, I dealt with the lower hulls hatches. At
symbolic project that reflected perfectly the The shackles' ears were far too small and the first, the opening on the right-hand side of the hull
early days of the Soviet tank design school. I base of the towing lug, too thick. Also, the base was patched with a piece of styrene. The side-
had prepared myself for a scratch build when, lacked the four rivets which secure it to the hull. panels joint was restored (scratched across the
wonderful news, HobbyBoss announced the release I started by removing the front plate and the patch) and the rivet lines reinstated. Two hatches
of a T-24 kit! After a few months of waiting, the poor imitation of the idlers crank gear. All rivets (1412mm) were made from 0.030" styrene.
kit arrived. Alas, it did not entirely live up to were carefully shaved off and later used on the As regards the hatch size, I had no pretensions
expectations. To an extent, this was understandable: model. A new front plate was made from 0.030" to absolute accuracy but to my eyes, a slight
there are no surviving vehicles and I have been styrene sheet, supplemented with Tichy Trains vertical enlargement provided a more authentic
unable to trace a single reliable technical drawing rivets and Master Clubs bolt heads (1). The new appearance. The hinges were made from 0.010"
of the T-24. All the same, from the very few photos inclination of the plate was 75, an assumed angle styrene card and 0.8mm styrene rod. Note the set
that can be found online, it was apparent that
HobbyBosss designers hadnt undertaken a very
detailed investigation. After the initial shock, I
came to the conclusion that the situation wasnt
completely hopeless: the hull seemed geometrically
correct and likewise both of the turrets. Using
some kit parts would still be beneficial, as it would
undoubtedly reduce time and effort in comparison
to a scratch build, even though a number of serious
corrections were needed. In this way, with an air of
cautious trepidation, modelling commenced!


I identified several issues with the lower hull. The
lower front plate was at the wrong angle, the hatch
on the right-hand side of the hull was in the wrong
position. On the Hobby Boss version it is located
between the third and the fourth suspension struts,
but it should be between the first and second
struts (9), the vertical dimensions of the lower
hull hatches on both sides were too small (9), the
reduction gears housings of the drive-sprockets
were missing from the hull sides and the fenders

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8 9 10

of rivets surrounding the hatches (2,3).
The reduction gears housings of the drive
sprockets were next. Their exact shape and
construction details are unknown (at least to me).
This means the results are to an extent a figment of
my imagination, although they do bear a decent
resemblance to the units partially visible on some
photographs (6).
I removed all eight towing lugs from their bases
and made new bases from 0.015" styrene. The
rear pair of lugs was mounted across two plates
and the bases bent accordingly. Four Tichy Trains
rivets were glued to each base. For the shackles
I cut off their ears and made sixteen new ones
by slicing up a 2mm styrene rod. New ears were
glued to the shackles and 0.6mm holes were drilled
across to accommodate Master Clubs resin bolts.
Then the shackles were assembled with the towing
lugs and attached to their places on the hull (4).


The easiest way to explain my issues with the
kits running gear would to say that everything is
either inaccurate or completely wrong, but Ill try
to be more specific. The crank gear of the idler
does not exist. It is represented, quite poorly, by
some sort of very chunky driveshaft (8). The track
tensioners are an incorrect shape and have been
simplified (7), the idler wheels lack quite a few
perceptible details; though in terms of size seem
okay. Webbing is missing on both inner and outer
sides of the wheel. There should be nuts, not bolt-
heads, on the inner part of the wheel rim. Also, the
bolts fastening the inner and outer discs are clearly
visible from the side. The hubcap is oversimplified.
The suspension struts seem to be the right size
and construction with fair detailing, but the upper,
bulged part is round in plain view, though it should
be square with rounded corners; probably the most
noticeable glitch in the kit. The drive-wheels are
wrong in all aspects, including the size, as they are
smaller in diameter than they should be. The whole
idea embedded in their design and construction
has been irretrievably lost in the kit!
The road wheels (as well as return rollers) are
a little oversimplified, though they do resemble the
originals and look pretty accurate, size-wise. The
tracks links do not look authentic, at all. There is a
slight similarity in their shape but they are too flat,
undeveloped and somewhat anaemic.
The idlers crank gears were made from the
2mm styrene sheet. The tensioners were scratch-
built using thick styrene (housing), 0.005" brass
for brackets, round and hexagonal rods for the
shaft. The thread was imitated by winding a soft
brass wire (0.19mm) on a brass rod. I have to
admit that the idea of the assembly joint of a

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tensioner shaft and crank gears via a bracket 13
raised troubling doubts in my mind. When the
model was complete I began to think that the
node should perhaps have been similar in design
to those to be seen on the T-18 (earlier design)
and T-28 (later design) which are both alike. Ah
well, regardless of whether Im right or wrong, the
node is not really visible on the model.

After some serious thought I decided to use the
kits driving wheels. But first they would have to be
enlarged, and then cut to the right shape. A new
hubcap is also needed. The main problem with the
enlargement is the tracks pitch. I bought a set of
metal track links from Ukrainian aftermarket maker,
Sector-35. Needless to say, I was hoping to acquire
something more authentic purchasing these tracks
wasnt an easy task, and they werent cheap.
When they finally arrived it was immediately
apparent that they were just an exact copy in metal
of the kits track links (what a sad story!). The kits 14
smaller drive-wheels corresponded with the kits
tracks pitch.
If I increased the diameter of the drive-wheels
to 22mm (thats what they should be, according to
my calculations) the tracks would not fit. However,
my metal tracks did have some resilience, which
I thought might be useful. Eventually, I opted for a
compromise, making the wheels marginally smaller
(21mm in diameter) by laminating 0.010" styrene
stripe around the kits wheels. When the expansion
had dried (I gave it a couple of days) I carved the
driving indentations and tried the tracks fit (6).
There was just enough room, so the compromise
had worked perfectly.
A set of small ribs was added to both rims of
each of the idler wheels (7). Also, five long ribs
were added to reinforce the joint between the hub
(made from 2.0 mm styrene rod) and each inner
wheels disk. On the inner rim, the bolt heads were
shaved off, holes were drilled and Master Clubs
0.8mm resin nuts were installed, connecting inner
and outer disks, with a new hubcap as the final
touch on each wheel.
Next, the suspension struts challenge which,
as mentioned previously, involved squaring the
circles! All eight pre-assembled struts underwent
a surgical operation to remove the incorrectly
rounded upper parts of the cylinders. Two rounded-
corner squares were made for each cylinder:
one from 2.5mm styrene for the upper part of the
cylinder, and another from 0.010" styrene for the
top lid bearing the roller support (8). Then all parts
were glued together, four Master Club nuts added
to every lid and the improved suspension struts
attached to the hull (9).
The kits road wheels have very thick spokes
which require a thinning. Also, the side surface
of the kits wheel is flat or even raised slightly
above the rim, but from the period photos it was
clearly bent inwards. On the kits wheels there is
a spherical cap on the hub, but on pictures it has
a definite hexagonal shape with a semi-spherical 16
surface and it sits significantly deeper (10). This
proved to be a tedious and wearying operation, as
the T-24 has thirty-two road wheels.


The upper hull suffers from the following mishaps;
the air intake housing is missing from the right-
hand side of the upper hull, the back hull plates
and the air outlet grill aren't in the right place,
the lever handling the flap of the air outflow is
missing from the right hand side of the upper hull.

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The trench skid isnt quite right; its elements are

too thick and the mounts are incorrect in form and
location (11). The air filter intakes mushroom is
represented by indeterminable swelling on the right-
hand side of the top plate (13), all vision slits are
far too wide and the one on the drivers hatch is
inaccurate, the hinges on the engine doors and the
drivers hatch are too thick (6), the hinges of the
drivers hatch are one-sided and are not connected
to the hull, the hull's machine-gun ball-mount is
simply hilarious! (13) and the fenders are too thick.
Before I assembled the hull, the air intake
imitation had to be shaved off the upper plate and
the hole patched. The fit of the upper hull part
wasnt bad, but still far from perfect, so it was
necessary to putty the joints. The air intake for the
radiator is located on the right hand side of the hull
and, as mentioned, it is simply missing. I made it
using a piece of Abers photo-etched grill, a sheet of
0.005" brass, a wire and some styrene strips. The
sheath of the intake was riveted to the frame using
strips of Archers resin rivets on clear decal film.
Hot air should flow out between two sloped
armour plates at the rear of the upper hull. There
is a grill and the flow regulating flap (behind the
18 19
grill) mounted inside the opening. The inner plate
is smaller than it should be, so I made a new one
from a sheet of styrene. Then I realised that the
outer plate doesnt join the side plates properly,
so I ended up making both plates from scratch,
which at least gave me the opportunity to design
the correct riveting using Tichy Trains styrene rivets.
The grill was made from Abers PE.

With the trench skid, the best strategy meant
slicing everything from the bent bottom plate and
making a new frame using 0.025" styrene. New
hinges connecting the tail to the bottom of the hull,
a pair of upper ears and the hull brackets were
made from styrene card. All parts were assembled,
riveted and mounted on the hull (11). According
to the kit, the air filter intakes mushroom is located
on the right-hand side of the hulls top plate, exactly
where the swelling is located. On photos of two
vehicles that I have studied, the filter mushroom is
undoubtedly to be found on the left-hand side of
the same plate. I chose to go with the evidence
of my eyes rather than work with the convenience
of the kit, although I have strong suspicions that
there might have been significant variations in all
produced vehicles, because at the KhPZ factory,
enthusiasm for improvement prevailed over the strict
discipline of serial production.
New hinges were made from strips of metal
and styrene rods for the engine doors and drivers

21 22 23

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hatch; and these were riveted to the hull. All
vision slits were narrowed to 0.15mm by gluing
in styrene inserts. Fenders and their supporting
brackets were made from 0.005" brass. Lines of
Archers resin rivets were applied across fenders
connecting them to the supports. Three diamond-
shaped lids covering fuel and water filling necks
were also made from brass with the addition of
resin bolts. The front machine-gun ball-mount was
taken from the leftovers of HobbyBosss T-26 kits.
The correction had also required a thickening of the
MG knob front-plate (12).
Quite a few bolt heads and rivets were removed shape, as if derived from strange ellipsoids. PAINTING AND FINISHING
and others added here and there across the hull. Among other things to consider I listed the There was nothing too extravagant about the
All handles were replaced by ones made from following: The sealing rings around the front MG painting and the finishing of the model. Im a
brass wire. The muffler was wrapped in a piece of apertures were rather exaggerated and ought to be profound old-timer in terms of painting and finishing
0.005" styrene and a new flange and bracket were less prominent, the MG aperture on the left-hand techniques and I do not use pre-fabricated washes,
made. The exhaust-pipe walls were significantly side of the turret was too small, the spring-powered filters or any other fancy stuff. Instead, its simply
thinned. The muffler was moved about 3mm hinge of the small turret hatch was unconvincing. Tamiya Acrylics for the main paintwork, with
backwards and the small armour plate covering the All vision slits were far too wide and definitely Humbrol enamels for the filters and dry-brushing;
back of the left-side fuel compartment (sponson?) had to be reduced and some rivets were missing and Winsor & Newton oils for different finishes.
was made from styrene card with L-shaped profiles across the turrets. The muffler was finished with a mixture of pigments
added to the joints. The mooring rings (on both In the beginning, all rivets except those on applied on wet Tamiya XF-84. The model depicts
sides of the hull) were made from brass wire. the roof of the main turret were removed. After a barely used vehicle so there is almost no
At this stage I declared that the hull was ready applying a new line pattern on the shaved turrets weathering and the natural sediments of mud and
(13-15). and drilling 0.4 mm holes, about four hundred dust across the lower hull are light-to-moderate.
Tichy Trains rivets were installed across both turrets The model received a Gold in its class at MAFVA
THE TURRETS (16). The hatch hinge was made from a plastic Nationals 2016.
The turrets, in comparison to the rest of the kit, were rod, metal strips and a brass wire. New protective
almost perfect. The main gun ball-mount looked very rings around the MG apertures were carved from
convincing. I couldnt find any significant drawbacks 0.015" styrene card. Small pieces of styrene were References
in the turrets design aside from one irritating glued in the vision slits, reducing their size to about Maxim Kolomietz, Manoeuvrable tanks of the USSR,
feature, the rivets. These spoiled a good job. 0.15mm. And that was it. Perhaps I missed a Exmo:Yauza, Moscow, 2014
While the rivets on the roof of the main turret were couple of small fixes or have forgotten to mention Eugeny Boldyrev, Medium tank T-24, 2005-2012, http://www.
perfect, all of the correct size and with a perfectly others, but I believe this gives a good impression of
spherical form, those on the vertical surfaces of the the kit and the scale of additional work required to
main turret and all on the small turret were out of make a decent model.

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Matt Edwards builds Tamiya's re-issue
of the Italeri Panzwerfer 42

he Sd.Kfz.4/1 Panzerwerfer (or Moaning Minnie, to
the Allies) was a multi-barrelled rocket launcher in use
by the Germans from about 1943 until the war's end in
1945. It could in theory, lob a 15cm rocket up to 7,000
metres in sets of ten. The vehicle could carry enough rounds
for another two reloads. Built on the Opel-Maultier chassis but
within a welded and riveted cab and body, the vehicle was
used on the eastern as well as the western front and from all
accounts was pretty effective; especially against morale of the
lads on the ground.

This is a re-box of the 1990s issue of the Italeri kit, but with a
few additions from Tamiya, namely a reloading crew, a new
set of ammo, crates, link-length tracks as well as some rivets
(youll need them). The main sprues are in a tan plastic and
the tracks come in a dull metal/silver colour.
For those that have built this kit and for those that havent,
its still a bit of a thing to put together. The detail is okay
and I bought myself an Eduard detail set to help with the
appearance, but to be honest you really dont have to and
if making another I wont bother. The only real problem with
the kit are the launcher tubes. There are update kits out there,
but with a bit of patience and some modelling skills they can
be made to look more convincing.

As with most kits, the lower chassis was put together first. I
used superglue on a lot of the parts as the joins for some of
the vehicle are a little suspect with regards to holding things
in line and straight. There is a basic engine if you fancy
leaving the bonnet open and adding a bit of detail. Once the
chassis was all put together and I was happy with the shape
of it, I added the wheels bogies and sprockets.
While waiting for these items to set and dry,
I started work on the small turret which
is seated under the launchers. From
references it should have within
it a seat for the operator. Ive
seen pics of two types of
seats (there may be more)
so I went for the simplest
version and built this
using stretched sprue and The basic chassis with engine and suspension
plastic card. bases cemented in place

56 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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The interior, before
everything was zipped up.
Note the hull-side racks for
the rockets

The running-gear bogies are seen here, with The Nebelwerfers basic turret was given a
wheels already fitted simple seat by the author

AFV Edition 57

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The old Italeri tracks are pretty tough items to use
and sit correctly, so I was glad that a new set has
been included. The single links are pretty small and
fiddly, but they do give a better look to the overall
appearance of the running gear. I replaced the front
wheels and tyres with resin items from the spares
box, as they give a better sit than those in the kit,
but there is no real need to swap them, its just I had
them to hand.
Once dry I then added the lower tub of the
armoured hull. No real issues here and I then added
some of the internal features along with Eduard items.
At this point I also built the inner of the upper hull,
The upper hull; note the The Nebelwerfer unit received cabling to improve the look of the weapon
and gave both parts a basic spray of ivory. Once dry
two rifles in their rack
it was then given a dark oil paint wash which, twenty-
four hours later was drybrushed in lighter colours of
the basic coat. Chipping and scratches were picked
out in light and dark acrylic tones.


Once happy with the overall look of the inner parts,
I fixed both upper and lower halves together. I also
added the front grill and rear items that needed fitting
and would help with the bracing. I used a lot of
superglue, tape, clamps and elastic bands to get it to
pretty well stay together. When dry, filler was applied
and sanded.
The sanding meant that the rivets that were
moulded on the body would be ruined, but there are
spares (which are on the track sprues and need to The lower portion of the turret
be cut off with a sharp blade) although as I found, The vehicles interior was base-
was also sprayed white
not enough so I made my own with some cut from coated in matt white
stretched sprue. While waiting for the cab and rivets
to set, I mounted the rear doors and fashioned the
door locking mechanism from odds and sods in the
spares stash. I then tackled the launch tubes.
After fitting both halves of the tubes together and
filling any gaps, I removed a lot of the moulded-on
detail. Checking references, I then replaced the wires,
handles, brackets and all other items with lead wire,
plastic card and again the trusted stretched sprue. This
took quite some time, but once completed I was pretty
happy with the overall look. The tubes were then fixed
to the turret and checked for anything that I may have
missed (it happens!). The whole vehicle was then
lightly sanded especially over the rivets so that they
all had the same look. Weld seams were then added
with a pyrogravure, and that was her built.
The upper and lower
Colour-washes take care of the detail inside, lifting it from the bland hulls have been mated
FADE TO GREY white base colour and a few gaps filled
After washing the whole kit in detergent to remove with green putty
any dirt or grease from my fingers, I then sprayed the
model in grey car primer. Over this I applied a pre-
shading layer of dark grey/brown mixed from Vallejo
acrylics. A basic dark sand was then misted over,
getting lighter in the areas that would attract light.
Camouflage was then sprayed using again,
shades mixed from acrylics. Over the camouflage
colours the basic vehicle colour was lightly misted
over, to give the look of faded paint. Small dots of
various oils paints were then applied and diluted on
the vehicle to add various tones to areas around the
vehicle. After about twelve hours, I sprayed on two
coats of gloss varnish which helps with the flow of the
colour-wash which I applied using a mixture of dark
oil paints.


I like to give my vehicles a worn and battered
appearance, so used my usual technique of applying
chipping and scratches, using a very fine brush
and a small piece of washing up sponge. The tools A little putty was needed where
the hull halves meet. The turret
were first painted in a light sand and the wood area is being test-fitted here
stained with a dark brown oil wash. The metal parts
painted a very dark brown/black colour, dry

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Grey primer first, covering
the whole model

Over the primer was applied

some pre-shading to get
the camo colours off to a
good start

Thin layers of dark yellow followed,

focusing the paint build-up in the
centre of panels

Lastly, the olive green and red brown

camouflage was airbrushed on

With the balkenkreuze decals on, a colour-wash was applied over the whole model Oil paint streaking gives the model the look of a machine that has become dusty, then rained on

Time for some high-key points of paint-chipping, made using Humbrol paints Dark shades of Humbrol enamel were used to create further weathering effects

AFV Edition 59

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Views of the Nebelwerfer (smoke launcher) revealing the extra work added by the author, in the form of cabling and other refinements

brushed in steel and rubbed with the lead of a pencil

to highlight the worn look. The tracks were then
painted in a very dark brown mixed from enamels
and dry brushed dark steel, again from enamels. The
front tyres were painted a very dark grey, washed
with light enamel wash dust colours and let to dry.

Earth-coloured pigments were later applied using
PVA glue and matt varnish to the lower cab. The
same pigments were then brushed onto the tracks
and tyres and blended using white spirit. I then gave
the model a coat of matt varnish to dull it all down.
Black pigment was then brushed onto the launcher
tubes. Graphite powder was rubbed onto the tubes
and running gear to give the look of worn steel and
I also used the pencil I had used to get the powder
from, to run on raised detail that I thought could do
With a little extra work and a
with a bit of attention.
creative paint/weathering job,
this kit can look superb
As I said at the beginning, this kit has been out there
for many years now, but with the addition of the
Tamiya parts and with some time and a little skill can
still come up to represent the vehicle in a good light.
It can be a little frustrating to get the whole thing to
sit right but as I say, just take it slowly and get a load
of tape, bands and clamps! Now I have no idea if
the dimensions are spot on, but it pretty much looks
like the Panzerwerfer. Give it a go (yes I did swear
times) but I got there in the end.

Paints used
Various Vallejo acrylics (colours mixed to suit)
Oils used for shading and washes, various dark and light colours.

60 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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Brett Green takes a look at Tamiya's magnificent
1:35 M40 US self-propelled 155mm gun

amiya has announced the launch of a new - Two steel pins
kit of the US M40 155mm self-propelled gun - One chain plus screws, nuts and string
in 1:35, which is fantastic news for modellers - The model comes with eight figures and two
of late-war and Korean War armour. Only the markings-options recreating Korean War 937th
suspension parts from Tamiya's previous M4A3E8 Field Artillery Battalion M40s
'Easy Eight' Sherman (35346) are re-used, the rest - Hydraulic dampers include metal outer tubes for a
being completely new. realistic finish
Although the vehicle never fought en masse - Rear deck can be assembled up or down;
in WWII, one example of the T83 prototype did individual pulley parts are included
make it to the European Theatre of Operations. The - Includes photo-etched parts to recreate engine
M40 served mainly in the Korean War and was grilles
eventually replaced by the M53 vehicle. Tamiya - Clear parts included for lights, plus sights on twin
visited the US Army Field Artillery Museum in driver and radio operator cupolas
Fort Sill, Oklahoma, USA to study a real M40 to - One-piece flexible tracks included
create this kit, so it is extremely accurate from the - A range of accessories include separate shell and
tracks to the muzzle brake. It comes with the full propelling charge depictions.
complement of eight crewmen; an aluminium gun - Metal barrel
barrel with brass ammunition will also be released
for separate, simultaneous purchase. The separately available aluminium gun barrel
will be released at the same time as the M40 kit.
KIT CONTENTS AND HIGHLIGHTS The tip of barrel interior features rifling detail and
- 424 parts in olive-drab plastic comes with brass parts and decals to depict ten
- Fifty parts in grey plastic (the figures) projectiles with fuses attached.
- Twenty parts in clear plastic
- Ten photo-etched parts AVAILABILITY;
- Two lengths of flexible vinyl tracks Tamiya models, paints and accessories are widely
- Seventeen polythene caps available from good model shops and online. UK
- Two brass tubes import and distribution by The Hobby Company

The aluminium gun barrel set also includes ten projectiles machined from solid brass AFV Edition 61

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ISBN; 978-91-982325-2-3
From good book sellers and

This 176+ page hardback production provides the reader with a wealth of
information about the subject; the armoured fighting vehicles that would have been
seen in Czechoslovakian territory in the final year of WW2. The book combines
high quality wartime B/W photographs showing every conceivable type of German
vehicle from Panther to Kettenkrad almost all either destroyed or abandoned
with some extremely effective colour illustrations to create a useful insight into this
period and location of the war. Detailed captions complete the story. MN


ISBN; 978-1-910777-23-7
From good book sellers and

This new title from Helion & Company describes the actions of the 1st Polish Armoured Division
during the Normandy campaign in August 1944, following the D-Day landings in June.
Sometimes, due to the mass-medias inevitable simplification of military history, one might be
forgiven for thinking that the D-Day operation consisted of just American (plus a few British)
troops. The Polish (and many others) contributions frequently go unacknowledged and we
must rely on books like this to remind us of their heroic and crucial fighting efforts. This book
provides a wealth of wartime photos of Polish troops and hardware that were deployed during
Operations Totalise, Tractable, at Falaise and Mont Ormel. The photographs are worth the
purchase price alone, but the historical text makes an engaging read. MN. MN

62 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

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From good book sellers and
ISBN; 978-0-9883363-1-5

US Modeller Mike Rinaldi is a well respected modeller and his works

are recognised as some of the best examples of the modern, hyper-real
style of painting and weathering. This recent, 288+ page production
presents some of his wonderful armour models in article-style chapters,
showing their assembly, detail improvements and crucially, their painting
and weathering. The photos are pure eye-candy as you might imagine,
but this isnt just a picture book; the author provides a readable and very
useful text that explains his approach to modelling and expands on the
techniques he has mastered. Highly recommended. MN


From good book sellers and

In this 168+ page, square-format book from Spanish producer AK Interactive we have a
fascinating introduction to the mechanised elements of WW1; tanks, trucks, armoured cars,
artillery and aircraft. The cover announces never seen pictures which we will interpret as
previously unpublished and they are extremely interesting, depicting armour, big guns, trucks
and men in sharp focus and far from the sometimes blurred and old-looking images we are
perhaps used to seeing from The Great War. In fact, the images are more akin to those we find
in books from WW2. The first portion of the book is filled with truly excellent colour illustrations
of tanks, armoured cars, motorcycles and trucks; a very well presented production and worth
adding to ones reference collection. MN

AFV Edition 63

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p 64 TigerSteel Book 068.indd 8 31/10/2016 11:49

modeller Next Issues
military illustrated

ISSUE No.068 December 2016

Editors; Aircraft Edition - Brett Green

AFV Edition - Marcus Nicholls
Military Illustrated Modeller
Graphic Design;
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STREET FIGHTER Part two of this article covers the
1:35 Berlin 1945 street-scene diorama painting and weathering of this ...AND MORE!
mega-superdetailing project
AFV Edition 65

p 65 NextIssue 068MN.indd 65 01/11/2016 10:46


A Royal Navy team inspect a harbour wall in Cherbourg

ere we see a Royal Navy diver being lifted up the harbour wall the summer of 1944. Three British Royal Navy sailors remain in the
of the Commercial Basin, Alexander III dock, in Cherbourg, diver-boat, watching the him being steadily winched upwards in his
Normandy. The lifting mechanism is a boatswains chair. The cumbersome equipment. Note the pollution by petrol and oil, seen as
diver will have been examining the structural integrity of the a sheen on the water at the top of the photo. A interesting scene that
wall after Normandys main port was taken by the Allied forces in would make an attractive vignette.
See you again next time!

66 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2016

p 66 SignOff 068MN.indd 66 01/11/2016 10:47


The Modellers Guide

Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering
Aircraft of WWII, with airfield accessories, ordnance and diorama

Aleksandar Pou

A LOVE STORY READY Modellers guide to
TO ASSEMBLE superdetailing, painting and
weathering aircraft of WWII
book is intended for both
TECHNIQUES beginners and advanced
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BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT of modelling tasks ranging from
SPITFIRE MK. IXC basic detailing, scratch-building,
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JU-87D STUKA custom parts using resin as well as
scratch-building part from brass and
aluminium and of course, diorama
making. Basics about tools, paints
and modelling materials have
been covered as well. The book
revolves around three subjects,
P-47D Razorback, Spitfire Mk.IXc
and Junkers Ju-87D Stuka, all in
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p 67 ModellersGuide 068.indd 1 02/11/2016 10:13